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<comments>
  <row Id="1" PostId="2" Text="Are you asking for how you can simulate this effect by digital editing, or how you can setup the camera to do this in the first place, or both?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:24:02.130" UserId="23" />
  <row Id="2" PostId="10" Text="I own a couple Gorillapods (SLR &amp; SLR-Zoom) and love them." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:28:43.197" UserId="28" />
  <row Id="3" PostId="8" Score="2" Text="I wish I could upvote this a thousand times.  I lost track a long time ago of an attempt to keep my photos organized.. now they just sit in a folder on my external drive with no sorting whatsoever. " CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:30:32.753" UserId="44" />
  <row Id="4" PostId="3" Text="you need more information.  Do you perform hdr by hand, use photomatix, or some other tool?  What settings do you use?  The best answer is probably to just dial back your contrast settings when merging." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:32:43.450" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="5" PostId="37" Text="Is this related to hyperfocal distance?  I think that might need to be a tag." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:34:30.153" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="6" PostId="21" Text="I concur ... you can get an inexpensive monopod that's very light and collapse to a around 18&quot; (probably less)." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:34:37.533" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="7" PostId="37" Text="Some commentary on hyperfocal distance would be great." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:37:34.483" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8" PostId="2" Score="1" Text="The simple answer to this is lower f stop.. but since you are asking this questions, chances are that you don't know how to manipulate ISO/aperture/shutter speed to get the effect you want. I'd strongly suggest that you read a small intro article/book to understand how they interact first." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:37:49.553" UserId="55" />
  <row Id="9" PostId="3" Text="At the moment, I've had the most realistic results by processing the same RAW file with differing exposures, and merge them with an opacity based on the luminance." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:38:24.250" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11" PostId="48" Score="2" Text="Should've mentioned I was on Windows, but a good answer for the Apple users that stumble here..." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:44:44.653" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12" PostId="3" Text="Give us some examples shots maybe. Try doing actual bracketing instead of &quot;faking&quot; it, those always came out best for me." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:46:44.120" UserId="70" />
  <row Id="13" PostId="37" Text="this is also related to telephoto compression I believe." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:46:48.457" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="14" PostId="51" Text="For the record, here's the compatibility chart for your camera; note that only EOS Utility is unsupported on 64-bit Vista: http://canoncanada.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6161" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:47:24.057" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="15" PostId="70" Score="1" Text="you need to tag or comment this based on digital or film photography." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:47:34.273" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="16" PostId="23" Score="4" Text="I believe that's a function of the camera(at least my Nikon is like that). I have old manual focus Nikon lenses, and the focus indicator still lights up! " CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:48:31.400" UserId="70" />
  <row Id="17" PostId="29" Score="4" Text="Lightroom is an invaluable tool for just about any photographer" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:49:13.160" UserId="70" />
  <row Id="18" PostId="63" Text="AFAIK, protection is the primary reason for a UV filter ... although I suspect it does something optically also :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:49:44.750" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="20" PostId="63" Score="8" Text="technically, anything that gets in the way of the light travelling to the sensor/film will have optical consequences." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:51:31.970" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="21" PostId="77" Score="1" Text="Film?  What's that &lt;grin/&gt;" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:51:41.893" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="22" PostId="64" Text="My assumption is that the current tripod that Rowland has is a full size one. The Gorillapod SLR (or smaller models depending on the camera) are quite small and light compared to normal, full-size tripods." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:52:08.567" UserId="28" />
  <row Id="23" PostId="31" Text="I think your question is answered here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5/i-am-going-travelling-and-cannot-take-a-tripod" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:53:23.463" UserId="44" />
  <row Id="24" PostId="55" Score="3" Text="I also use pecpads and eclipse solution. It's not that difficult to do yourself. Good point about the sky picture at high F number. Also take shot after each cleaning step to verify that you indeed removed the spot (sometimes they only move from one place to the other! :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:53:57.097" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="25" PostId="63" Score="3" Text="Agreed wholeheartedly about the use of it for protection. This is a picture of my wife's 10-22mm that I love to use for illustrative purposes: http://www.flickr.com/photos/erica_marshall/425731394/" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:55:56.063" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="26" PostId="49" Score="1" Text="Try only ask one question per topic next time. It helps to keep the questions and answers organized! :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:56:09.120" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="27" PostId="90" Text="Canon won't support older cameras on 64-bit platforms, which is why your 7D doesn't have a problem, but his 20D does." CreationDate="2010-07-15T19:58:40.270" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="28" PostId="55" Text="@Marc - absolutely right, i've had my dust spots move around endlessly." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:00:42.243" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="29" PostId="92" Score="3" Text="+1 on vignetting" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:02:09.667" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="30" PostId="50" Text="Comparing to the chart Marc suggests, I'd give the chart itself that I suggested the advantage for two reasons: (a) &quot;Focus here&quot; band has slight depth (camera could focus on the top or bottom of band). (b) Chart requires you to measure your own 45 degrees. On the other hand, his doesn't require mucking around with scissors and tape to cut it out. I have no comment on the instructions &amp; other info in Marc's PDF - they look interesting, but TLDR. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:03:05.250" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="31" PostId="96" Score="3" Text="I would change your question. Questions asking for best are very subjective and often create heated discussions." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:03:26.607" UserId="62" />
  <row Id="32" PostId="90" Text="Does the 20D not present itself as a USB drive?  Windows doesn't care what kind of camera it is, as long as it observes the USB drive protocols.&#xA;&#xA;My 300D (which is older than th 20D, I think), 30D, 40D, and (as I mentioned) 7D all present themselves as USB drives to the computer." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:05:21.860" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="33" PostId="63" Text="So people downvoting me for...?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:05:45.027" UserId="65" />
  <row Id="34" PostId="67" Score="2" Text="I don't think this kind of answer is very helpful. I believe it's fair for me to designate -- for meeting my own needs -- a specific weight budget for all the camera gear (2kg) and tripod specifically (500g). Keep in mind that this is backpacking, so I'm carrying up to 30kg of *other* stuff too. This does not make me an unserious photographer." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:06:33.103" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="35" PostId="49" Text="Edited to have only one question" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:07:24.193" UserId="54" />
  <row Id="36" PostId="31" Text="Thanks Jesse. That's related, but not the same question. I'm trying to find a tripod that meets the spec above, not avoid a tripod entirely." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:07:42.243" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="37" PostId="90" Text="See this thread on POTN, but short answer seems to be that you need to use PTP mode to perform image transfers, and tethering is completely out of the question (because of no support for EOS Utility): http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=828948" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:09:44.720" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="38" PostId="81" Text="Thanks! I will check it out." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:10:14.593" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="39" PostId="90" Score="3" Text="@david The 20D does not present itself as mass-storage; in PTP mode it can be used for pulling pictures off, but not for features like remote tethering. There also doesn't appear to be any 64-bit support for viewing RAW files in Explorer (like I'd been doing on 32 bit operating systems on my old laptop before it died)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:12:08.410" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="40" PostId="110" Text="can you describe backfocusing?  I'm not familiar with the concept.  " CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:13:00.187" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="41" PostId="63" Score="1" Text="Zepp, the OP asked whether there are disadvantages to using a UV filter (which there are), not what the conclusion should be. Your answer is a perfectly valid answer to the latter question; it's just not what the OP asked. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:14:19.263" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="42" PostId="63" Score="3" Text="Yes. There are downsides. " CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:19:24.633" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="43" PostId="110" Text="Is your question the same as http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1/what-is-the-best-way-to-micro-adjust-a-lens ?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:20:24.553" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="44" PostId="27" Score="3" Text="Are you looking mainly for exposure / eyeballs or do you have a goal of that exposure leading to the most amount of $$$/revenue?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:21:00.200" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="45" PostId="90" Score="1" Text="None of the Canon DSLRs present themselves as a USB drive. They are, at best, MTP or PTP devices that are represented with a storage-like interface, but the functionality is severely limited compared to a real USB mass storage device." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:22:00.290" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="47" PostId="108" Text="Don't forget to manually stop down your aperture before taking the photograph either. On some lenses there's a difference between setting an aperture and actually stopping it down." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:26:32.667" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="48" PostId="130" Score="3" Text="-lens suffixes on tags dropped because IMO that's implicit around here. However, please revert if the community disagrees!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:26:47.860" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="49" PostId="130" Text="Fine by me.  Maybe start a meta question about it" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:30:35.217" UserId="54" />
  <row Id="50" PostId="110" Text="I find them very similar but the related question is specifically asking for instructions on how to fix problems with autofocus, not how to find them. Maybe this question could be formulated to encompass more problems with autofocus than just back focusing." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:31:03.887" UserId="88" />
  <row Id="51" PostId="3" Text="How do you merge them, in photoshop or with photomatix?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:32:13.433" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="52" PostId="127" Text="+1 for a concrete answer regarding a tool" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:33:12.340" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="53" PostId="149" Text="It's not always the case that the longer the focal length, the greater the working distance." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:36:54.250" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="54" PostId="155" Text="Some DSLR's don't have RAW capability.  I don't know of any current models, but I know my old Canon 300D didn't.  &#xA;&#xA;The 300D was also pretty darn slow (which is why I upgraded to a 30D)." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:37:04.920" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="55" PostId="135" Score="1" Text="Why the downvote?  If the question is too vague, or too subject, state it, so that the site takes shape.  Thats what this beta is for" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:37:23.577" UserId="54" />
  <row Id="56" PostId="149" Text="Please clarify. I'm intrigued." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:37:33.543" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="57" PostId="135" Text="Not a bad question ... I upvoted it for you." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:38:52.607" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="58" PostId="19" Score="1" Text="Photographers call the effect &quot;Bokeh&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:38:54.383" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="59" PostId="166" Text="Most macro lenses open up to F/2.8. I don't think there's a lot of difference between F/2.8 and F/3.5 in terms of depth of field, especially since the macro lenses that don't go to F/2.8 are the ones with a longer focal length. Yes, the Canon EF-s 60 F/2.8 macro lens has a 1:1 magnification ratio." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:39:16.847" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="60" PostId="164" Score="8" Text="Should be a community wiki" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:40:44.067" UserId="62" />
  <row Id="61" PostId="166" Text="Yes, but if you're zoomed in, your variable f/3.5 might jump to f/5.6.  At such small distances, that makes a big difference in depth of field, depending on the effect you want." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:41:08.403" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="63" PostId="97" Score="3" Text="+1 interesting, did not know that." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:41:56.467" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="64" PostId="162" Score="1" Text="Megapixels and film ISO are unrelated. Film noise is even different than digital noise. Where are you going with this question?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:43:00.660" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="65" PostId="165" Score="1" Text="+1 for pointing out the investment in lenses!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:44:32.310" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="66" PostId="182" Text="This is good advice." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:45:24.930" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="67" PostId="137" Score="1" Text="This is vague.  You should have a need for a prime lens, before buying it.  This typically reduces your options to very few, if even any options at all." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:48:11.523" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="68" PostId="169" Text="So if I had two cameras with different sensor sizes, but the same effective focal length (due to lenses with different real focal lengths), the picture would look exactly the same, all other things being equal?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:48:43.970" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="69" PostId="178" Score="2" Text="probably 3.5/5.6" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:49:27.870" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="70" PostId="182" Text="You can also borrow their cameras before buying and see how they feel when you hold them." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:50:28.320" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="71" PostId="191" Text="Depends how you want to carry it - do you want to hike with your gear, or is this just to stop it rolling around in the car?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:52:09.423" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="72" PostId="192" Text="I looked at SmugMug and had a hard time figuring out what they were trying to be ... it seemed like they more of a photo sharing site (like Flickr) than anything.  This might have changed though." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:52:45.927" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="73" PostId="145" Text="(re: Restrictions) Like in cave tours. A flash may make the scene boring and a tripod/monopod would get the tour leader to yell at you. But hand-held with auto-ISO and stabilization (and shooting a few shots to pick the sharpest) can yield usable results." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:52:57.500" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="74" PostId="184" Score="3" Text="Sometimes you can use the lens flare for artistic effect!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:55:00.103" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="75" PostId="186" Text="+1, but I'd strengthen the last paragraph even further: buy one or two lenses by comparison, and then pick a camera that fits them. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:55:14.860" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="76" PostId="169" Score="2" Text="Yes, they would. Note that in general, the larger the sensor the more sensitive the sensor, so the pictures would never really look the same." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:56:20.833" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="77" PostId="204" Text="Good answer. In addition prime lenses usually contain less elements than zoom lenses (and therefore less flare) and longer focal lenghts flare less than wide angle lenses." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:56:42.657" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="78" PostId="210" Text="Agreed completely; I have this bag (a hand-me-down from my wife), and it's extremely easy to carry." CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:57:11.143" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="79" PostId="10" Text="Indeed those Gorillapods are great!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T20:59:12.620" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="80" PostId="162" Score="1" Text="I think it's a valid question. Film ISO affects information capacity, as do megapixels. However, your underlying sentiment may be, megapixels basically no longer matter, and that I agree with." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:00:00.900" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="81" PostId="21" Text="+1 for the bean bag suggestion." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:00:14.537" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="82" PostId="97" Text="That is interesting.  I didn't know that.  Does it actually make a noticeable difference (for non-astrophotographers)? " CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:01:39.180" UserId="37" />
  <row Id="83" PostId="186" Text="you are right! if not it's a bit contradicting! thanks! :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:03:41.267" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="84" PostId="206" Text="Digital zoom in post won't help - it will just magnify the shake that's there." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:04:16.443" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="86" PostId="137" Score="1" Text="Since you posted three mostly identical questions, I'll post three mostly identical comments. :) Research! See http://www.photozone.de/ for test results you can use to compare relatively similar units." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:06:28.950" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="87" PostId="90" Text="OK, I guess I misunderstood the question." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:06:37.687" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="89" PostId="116" Text="Er, &quot;wow&quot; that probably sounds worse than it is..." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:06:54.393" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="90" PostId="140" Text="Since you posted three mostly identical questions, I'll post three mostly identical comments. :) Research! See http://www.photozone.de/ for test results you can use to compare relatively similar units." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:07:05.860" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="91" PostId="135" Score="2" Text="Since you posted three mostly identical questions, I'll post three mostly identical comments. :) Research! See http://www.photozone.de/ for test results you can use to compare relatively similar units." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:07:22.960" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="92" PostId="213" Text="this is more of a consideration of specific models of camera than of a brand...as you note, within Canon and Nikon their cameras feel very different depending on which model you purchase" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:08:01.897" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="93" PostId="213" Text="Does this really deserve a down-vote? Camera lines do have consistent ergonomics and usability from body to body." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:09:07.790" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="94" PostId="90" Text="@david Some things, like the RAW codec [ http://software.canon-europe.com/software/0038095.asp?model= ] just don't work with explorer (or many other applications) on 64bit versions of windows." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:10:55.603" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="96" PostId="178" Text="You're right; I wasn't looking at the markings when I wrote the question, thanks. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:11:28.423" UserId="108" />
  <row Id="97" PostId="176" Text="The first two tips sound like a pretty demoralizing way to begin." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:12:07.550" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="98" PostId="67" Score="2" Text="Have you considered rethinking using a DSLR for this? Depending on your photography needs, a good point and shoot (G11/G12, LX3, etc) might give you considerably more leeway in your weight budget." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:12:29.127" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="99" PostId="230" Score="2" Text="what environment/operating system do you use? (Mac, PC, iPhone, etc?)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:12:44.027" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="100" PostId="218" Score="1" Text="This is the technique I currently use, and it's successful a good 50% - 60% of the time. Would like to become more successful. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:13:29.330" UserId="108" />
  <row Id="101" PostId="190" Text="The string idea is *clever!*" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:13:52.327" UserId="108" />
  <row Id="102" PostId="230" Text="@ahockley: See edit." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:16:35.777" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="104" PostId="187" Text="Canon also has remote controlled flash similar to CLS, but their flashes don't have all the Nikon features (such as optical slave, iirc)." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:17:59.193" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="105" PostId="213" Text="@Reid, on the other hand, when you're considering a *brand*, it may not be the best thing to stick for example to Olympus because you like how their entry level model feels in your hand. (It's more relevant if you don't plan to advance to other bodies in the system, though.)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:19:25.417" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="106" PostId="198" Text="Lens hood isn't going to be much help with sun directly in the picture." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:22:00.443" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="107" PostId="198" Score="1" Text="@che so why not downvote every answer that says that? The question only asked about minimising, and the tip for not using filters will have a positive effect on reducing flare too" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:23:17.310" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="108" PostId="229" Score="1" Text="It is now community wiki." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:23:38.870" UserId="81" />
  <row Id="109" PostId="229" Text="http://www.quotegarden.com/photography.html" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:24:05.000" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="110" PostId="217" Text="I had a similar model and it was good.  I never got a lens case though.&#xA;&#xA;In general, I like Tamrac camera bags." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:24:05.140" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="111" PostId="211" Score="1" Text="I'm a huge fan of this bag.  Used it on a 2-week trip through a bunch of national parks in the American Southwest.  It was a great way to carry gear around when trails weren't in the best shape and still get to it for capturing shots." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:25:15.140" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="112" PostId="215" Score="5" Text="I love standards ... especially since there are so many to choose from &lt;grin/&gt;" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:29:09.747" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="113" PostId="165" Score="2" Text="+1 again for pointing out the value of the lenses, they will be used longer than the body!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:31:33.100" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="114" PostId="133" Text="... and at this point, there's really no point to having used DNG if you're also keeping the RAW files around." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:32:05.660" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="115" PostId="133" Text="There might be, if you work for a company that uses a DAM system that works better with DNG's. " CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:34:36.050" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="116" PostId="176" Text="@Scott: You're right, yet it works.  Tried and true technique for me personally, and then passed on to a friend or three." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:40:44.507" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="117" PostId="233" Score="3" Text="Hugin can also do a bunch of crazy voodoo projections during the stitch.&#xA;&#xA;I find I get better results manually selecting common points, but that's obviously much more tedious." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:41:10.780" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="118" PostId="158" Score="1" Text="On the other hand, often ultimate quality is not needed. Get the lens that's good enough for you. No need to satisfy everyone on the internet too. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:43:58.080" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="120" PostId="270" Text="I've got a Nikon 24-85 f3.5/4/5 that I use a lot.  $800 is more than some cameras these days, so buying lenses second-hand is a good way to go if you've got a seller you trust in your area." CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:46:38.487" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="124" PostId="230" Text="FWIW, you might want to correct the spelling of &quot;stitching&quot; in your title. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T21:59:41.823" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="125" PostId="195" Score="1" Text="I think most people need to hold the camera to their face to use the viewfinder, unless they're using the lcd display for composition &lt;shudder&gt;" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:01:36.020" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="126" PostId="206" Text="Not if you minimize it first by reducing your focal length." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:02:22.010" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="128" PostId="289" Text="blowers are bad for sensors, imho" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:11:40.083" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="129" PostId="47" Score="1" Text="+1 excellent answer!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:12:53.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="130" PostId="247" Score="1" Text="I like a prime for walking too, except that my 50mm + 1.5x D90 is way too tight for most purposes. Nikon makes a nice 35mm prime that I'd like to try instead. Even wider might be nicer." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:17:24.993" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="131" PostId="299" Text="Those are nice, but don't exactly focus on sharing pics with family and friends." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:17:34.557" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="132" PostId="260" Text="Regarding range, I would check out the Tamron 18-270mm. It is a pretty nice lens, and has a zoom range of 15x (5x more than the 50-500.) It doesn't get quite as tight on the zoom end, but it is amazingly wide on the short end. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Tamron-18-270mm-f-3.5-6.3-Di-II-VC-Lens-Review.aspx" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:25:27.110" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="133" PostId="220" Score="3" Text="+1 for snipers :D" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:26:11.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="134" PostId="299" Text="Apologies...I read your title, but didn't really read your question since it seemed like a reiteration of the title. Might want to update your title to be more specific." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:28:29.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="135" PostId="271" Score="4" Text="Megapixel count is not nearly as important as pixel size.  My 6 MP SLR produces much, much better pictures than my 10 MP point-and-shoot - even when reduced &amp; viewed in a browser, it's a noticeable difference.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:31:45.420" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="136" PostId="155" Text="And some point &amp; shoot cameras can now do RAW." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:33:33.793" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="137" PostId="298" Text="Indeed, Flickr is the big baddie of the bunch. I simply prefer it over others that I looked at." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:35:35.930" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="138" PostId="327" Score="3" Text="It's not the trailer your mother-in-law lives it. ;-)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:49:24.073" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="139" PostId="271" Text="@chris: Yes, good point...I didn't directly note that, however the combination of considerably larger sensor size and megapixel count usually results in DSLR's having better control over noise. Since pixel (or rather photon-bucket) size is larger in a DSLR, it requires a lower signal to gather the same amount of light as a smaller sensor. That means a better signal-to-noise ratio." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:52:45.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="140" PostId="191" Text="Great question, a common requirement I think - been on the lookout for something similar" CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:53:19.933" UserId="17" />
  <row Id="141" PostId="241" Score="1" Text="I think this is a much better suggestion than shooting in manual for a month.  This is how I got to grips with my camera." CreationDate="2010-07-15T22:55:31.850" UserId="17" />
  <row Id="142" PostId="312" Text="Fair enough... though the printer is not so bad; its just difficult to calibrate with the monitor (without, as you say, buying some extra equipment)." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:00:43.540" UserId="133" />
  <row Id="143" PostId="351" Score="1" Text="Before I try to answer...what have you tried to do so far to keep yourself interested?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:14:31.507" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="144" PostId="352" Text="Good question, though I fear they may be nothing you can do - it may depend on Facebook's aggressive JPEG compression settings.&#xA;&#xA;Post some examples!" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:16:53.140" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="145" PostId="206" Text="No - the magnitude of shake blur depends solely on the percentage of the image frame the subject traverses per unit time. In other words, what's the rate of visual flow.&#xA;&#xA;Blur is reduced when you use a shorter FL because the same angle of movement of the camera is a smaller fraction of the field of view. And reducing the field of view is the same whether you do it with a lens or in post." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:20:52.883" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="146" PostId="353" Score="5" Text="+1 for explaining underexposure vs. ISO w.r.t. noise. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:21:57.220" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="147" PostId="165" Score="1" Text="+1 Yup, lenses will stay as you upgrade the body, and do a lot more to impact your images than your body does.  " CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:24:45.093" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="148" PostId="114" Text="This.  I've found that almost all the time the jpeg output is perfectly fine, but every now and then I'll take photos where I want the extra options of RAW.  Shooting RAW+jpeg means I don't spend unnecessary time in the common case, but I can still post-facto select images I want to process more." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:28:57.177" UserId="145" />
  <row Id="149" PostId="357" Text="I think the most important setting is the &quot;700px long edge&quot; as it probably keeps them from resizing it too much." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:31:01.043" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="150" PostId="358" Score="2" Text="+1 because tripods are a critical part of the low-light discussion, but probably won't help with the party pics the OP wants to shoot." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:31:09.060" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="151" PostId="206" Score="1" Text="sounds like the subject for a good real world test :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:31:40.573" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="152" PostId="237" Score="1" Text="Seems like maybe this should maybe be a CW question?" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:32:28.170" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="153" PostId="114" Score="2" Text="Another disadvantage is this makes file management more difficult, since now you have two files for each photo to keep track of." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:32:51.507" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="155" PostId="30" Score="6" Text="Even your facebook friends will appreciate a little selectivity though! :)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:33:59.167" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="156" PostId="364" Text="Not sure if this type of question is OT, but it should certainly be CW." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:36:03.343" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="157" PostId="364" Text="What is OT?&#xA;It is now community wiki." CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:37:11.640" UserId="81" />
  <row Id="158" PostId="364" Text="Off Topic - read the FAQ: http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:39:59.687" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="159" PostId="358" Score="1" Text="Yup... unless it's a really boring party ;-)" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:41:50.433" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="160" PostId="364" Text="&quot;What is your favorite X joke&quot; is a staple of the Stack Overflow spinoff sites. It's a necessary evil. :-P" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:52:51.143" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="161" PostId="233" Text="I've used Hugin for a number of panoramas that I've photographed freehand with decent results.&#xA;http://www.flickr.com/photos/ahotw/4632293571/lightbox/" CreationDate="2010-07-15T23:57:12.570" UserId="28" />
  <row Id="162" PostId="383" Score="4" Text="I don't really think that camera body is a decisive factor when it comes to filter selection. You might want to look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/356/what-are-your-preferred-filters-for-certain-subjects" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:07:06.047" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="163" PostId="384" Score="8" Text="Maybe make this a community wiki?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:11:30.093" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="164" PostId="384" Score="2" Text="Also one blog per answer would be a good stipulation." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:14:56.030" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="165" PostId="315" Text="From my experience with Cokin filters, the color cast really only becomes a problem when you stack more than one." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:17:08.023" UserId="152" />
  <row Id="166" PostId="114" Score="1" Text="Agreed re: file management. Thankfully my photo manager (F-Spot) has a plugin that goes through and combines raw/jpg versions of a photo into one logical group. I'm not sure about others, but I would hope this is a pretty common feature." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:20:02.180" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="167" PostId="364" Score="1" Text="Off topic perhaps, but definitely appropriate and should be here." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:21:09.510" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="168" PostId="294" Score="1" Text="Thank you. I guess my question wasn't very clear, but it was the depth of field difference (and anything else there may have been) that I was interested in." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:22:43.923" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="169" PostId="370" Score="2" Text="What kind of photography are you interested in? General, portrait, landscape, etc. That will dictate what kind of lenses you get in answer." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:24:28.867" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="170" PostId="386" Score="1" Text="Good call on setting to auto and recording the settings it uses... simple approach (clearly I'm a little slow) and should give me a good &quot;base&quot; to start from. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:30:36.933" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="171" PostId="370" Text="portrait and landscape" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:33:19.550" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="172" PostId="153" Score="1" Text="+1 as this is the reason I chose my purchase as well (which became the Nikon as it felt better than the Cannon)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:38:14.000" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="173" PostId="35" Score="3" Text="+1 for longer lens, which is what makes the whole difference. At 300mm it's easy to get extremely blurry backgrounds." CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:45:17.763" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="174" PostId="338" Text="A bought a class 6 card as well, but I'm wondering if I could get away with a 2 or 4, or if I'm missing out on not getting a class 10.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:46:14.233" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="175" PostId="165" Score="1" Text="Which means that once you pick a brand, and invest in lenses, you'll be using that brand for a long, long time :)&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-16T00:47:42.657" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="176" PostId="90" Score="1" Text="@Rowland yeah, but you were asking about drivers to connect the camera ... and, as far as I know, no drivers are necessary.  At least this is the case with all the Canon DSLR cameras I've had.  Doing special stuff with the camera after it's connected, that's a different story ... and isn't related to drivers." CreationDate="2010-07-16T01:06:57.860" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="177" PostId="131" Text="I second this.  An excellent plugin.  In fact, his plugins for lightroom, picassa, and facebook are all top notch.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-16T01:30:01.130" UserId="159" />
  <row Id="178" PostId="333" Text="hey Hamish, how does this compare to Lightroom in terms of RAW &quot;developing&quot;, i.e. not the organisational stuff" CreationDate="2010-07-16T01:54:57.280" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="179" PostId="386" Text="No problem, and keep in mind that the aperture priority (AV Mode) and shutter priority (TV mode) help to automate this process for you, by letting you select one or two of the three legs, and it automatically adjusts the third for you." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:01:58.480" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="180" PostId="338" Text="@chris, are you finding that you are taking lots of consecutive shots and waiting for the card to finish writing before you can take more? That seems to be the biggest driving force for wanting to upgrade." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:08:06.000" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="181" PostId="430" Score="1" Text="This deserves an upvote since it's probably the easiest way to get better pics... it just isn't applicable to all situations. But then, what is?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:19:05.287" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="182" PostId="403" Text="The optimal design for all lenses is petal shaped, but I suppose for longer lenses it would be quite a petal." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:20:18.140" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="183" PostId="413" Score="1" Text="I'm skeptical - I'd assume that Facebook runs all images through its processing scheme, even if they don't need to be resized.&#xA;&#xA;Anyway, this would be easy to test - upload an image and then compare what comes out with what you uploaded." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:22:19.740" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="184" PostId="434" Score="4" Text="+1 for the graph! That's a classic." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:24:23.497" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="185" PostId="298" Score="1" Text="One small problem that I ran into with Flickr though is that they don't make it easy for friends to batch download pics. I recently took a bunch of pics at a cousin's wedding, and we had to find some 3rd party software so she could download all of them. Granted, not everyone wants to do this, but it would be nice if Flickr made this possible." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:26:27.360" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="186" PostId="413" Score="1" Text="@Reid: It's the resizing that reduces the sharpness. If it's processed but remains the same size, the result is a lot better." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:27:47.170" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="188" PostId="106" Score="4" Text="a $7 UV filter also saved my $600 18-200mm lens after it was dropped as well. I would *never* not put some filter on a lens." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:32:20.077" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="189" PostId="426" Text="I've tried LR3 when it was still in beta. It's probably time to try it again." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:32:48.703" UserId="125" />
  <row Id="190" PostId="356" Score="2" Text="Is this for digital or film? Answers vary dramatically, so you might want to specify." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:32:52.290" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="191" PostId="417" Text="@Andrew, you've got a typo in &quot;DSLR&quot; but no one can edit yet..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:42:28.180" UserId="9" />
  <row Id="192" PostId="417" Text="@jaydles fixed :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T02:56:29.987" UserId="158" />
  <row Id="193" PostId="443" Text="I think the 1.4x canon tele is a guaranteed 2 stops and an additional loss in sharpness." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:05:28.670" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="194" PostId="410" Text="&quot;... Canon's 10-22. It's a great lens for the smaller sensor&quot; - I'm not sure I agree with this.  With a 1.6 sensor, *no* wide angle is a good option, as the sensor pushes them all up in focal length.  I think I missed your intent?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:08:26.683" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="195" PostId="443" Text="@reuscam: According to both Canon's official specs, and numerous review sites, the aperture loss is about 1 stop. A loss in sharpness would depend on the quality of the lens you attach it to...if you have a phenomenal top-end prime lens, you'll likely notice a loss in sharpness. However, attached to a mid-grade lens, you may or may not lose any sharpness, so its a rather subjective measurement." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:17:08.503" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="196" PostId="364" Text="I think some OT questions are acceptable. StackOverflow has plenty of off-topic joke threads, and I think they are an excellent addition to these sites. Keeps things light and fun. (This might be a discussion to add to meta, though.)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:26:42.877" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="197" PostId="450" Text="I don't think this is really subjective, so I'm removing that tag." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:29:48.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="198" PostId="364" Score="2" Text="@jrista: If it's truly off-topic, it should be closed, not tagged.  I think this question is on-topic (it clearly is *related* to photography, at least), but is a rhetorical question used solely to start a discussion, and [this is not a discussion board](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) nor are [discussion lists aren't really what we want](http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/57226/should-we-have-a-list-of-x-close-reason)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:37:06.013" />
  <row Id="199" PostId="450" Score="1" Text="Be aware that the histogram can be misleading, since it shows date from the processed JPEG, not the raw image. There are ways to minimize this; perhaps someone can write an answer explaining how." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:38:42.660" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="200" PostId="364" Score="1" Text="@Roger: In general, I totally agree. I'm not advocating that we allow off-topic discussion. However, as I mentioned, joke threads are a very common place thing on other stackexchange sites, and have somewhat become a part of stackexchange culture. And while they are not really on-topic, I do think they deserve a place as they are intrinsically related." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:39:52.847" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="201" PostId="450" Text="@Reid: Are you sure about that? I NEVER shoot in jpeg, I always shoot in full RAW mode without any JPEG files. I still get a histogram on my camera. I also get a histogram in Lightroom when I import my raw photos...JPEG images are never involved in the process. Keep in mind, a histogram is not necessarily only available on the camera...I get just as much use out of the Photoshop or Lightroom histograms as I do my built-in camera histogram." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:42:15.140" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="203" PostId="402" Text="This is a rhetorical question used solely to start a discussion, but [this is not a discussion board](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) and [discussion lists aren't really what we want](http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/57226/should-we-have-a-list-of-x-close-reason)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:49:35.060" />
  <row Id="204" PostId="164" Score="4" Text="This is a rhetorical question used solely to start a discussion, but [this is not a discussion board](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) and [discussion lists aren't really what we want](http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/57226/should-we-have-a-list-of-x-close-reason)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T03:50:46.090" />
  <row Id="206" PostId="402" Text="Yup, that's fair. Should have read the faq's more closely..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:08:54.987" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="208" PostId="247" Text="+1 , I use the same lens. I also carry a 35mm of the same speed." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:13:39.943" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="209" PostId="229" Score="2" Text="Community wiki doesn't fix a question that invites a discussion. Its on topic, but I think were avoiding these sorts of 'polls'." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:15:24.090" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="210" PostId="445" Score="2" Text="The title of this was funny when taken out of context of the question (as on the front page)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:19:02.887" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="211" PostId="463" Score="1" Text="+1 for Photographers Eye (recently purchased that myself, phenomenal book), and for Cambridge in Color (excellent tutorial site.)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:23:34.583" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="212" PostId="462" Text="Seriously, this. I'd actually try to encourage them to move out from anywhere near where you are.&#xA;&#xA;And honestly, that's what my first instinct was when I saw the thread title." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:23:39.060" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="213" PostId="452" Text="I'd add &quot;shoot to the right&quot;, but that's probably closer to a religious debate than factual answer." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:29:38.197" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="214" PostId="375" Score="1" Text="Basically, it'd be best to just try it and see what happens. :-)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:31:04.763" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="215" PostId="402" Text="@heavily: There is, admittedly, not very much guidance in this way, so I'm not faulting you.  We need to set an example with early questions to provide that guidance, which especially means *not* having discussion lists." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:32:08.600" />
  <row Id="216" PostId="462" Text="@Jordan H - My eyes got a little big when I saw the title on the front page, too. I almost yelled &quot;Noooo Jethro ! Noooooooo!!!&quot; :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:32:49.147" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="217" PostId="452" Text="@Jordan: Thats a good point, and it actually has a technical base that justifies it. I'll update my answer." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:33:34.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="218" PostId="388" Text="People will answer #4 anyway. :) But #5 is out of place here.  A simpler question is better (people tend to ignore later subquestions anyway), and I'd stick with just 1-3." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:34:38.817" />
  <row Id="219" PostId="402" Text="@Roger True, but the first thing I read in the link you posted was that we should try to avoid 'subjective' questions... well, I tagged mine as such :) Anyway, no sweat." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:37:59.437" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="220" PostId="388" Text="@Roger - edited as per your comment. Will move no.5 to a separate question." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:42:27.873" UserId="125" />
  <row Id="221" PostId="450" Score="2" Text="Yes, many/most cameras show you the histogram of the JPEG, which is created even if it's not saved. Annoying, but true. Keep in mind that raw data is in a very strange format and requires interpretation to form a rectangle of pixels, so it's not really accessible by the camera software until that happens." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:54:38.700" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="222" PostId="410" Score="5" Text="What? The 10-22 is specifically designed for the smaller sensor. It's effectively a 16-35 on 35mm. The horizontal viewing angle is near 100°! That's the widest option Canon offers for a 1.6x sensor." CreationDate="2010-07-16T04:57:18.337" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="223" PostId="479" Text="Do you mean LCD or view finder?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:08:55.227" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="224" PostId="439" Text="VR + teleconverter is going to give you really soft corners at wider aperture settings and faster speeds, especially hand held. This is a problem you'd experience with both FX and DX bodies. Are you looking for another lens recommendation? You're kind of answering your own arguments for and against either option." CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:13:32.320" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="225" PostId="443" Score="1" Text="+1 - VR lenses with teleconverters usually result in very soft corners when shooting below f/4, which defeats the purpose of the whole kludge to begin with. You lose a lot more sharpness due to the 'vr' than you would otherwise at the same speed / aperture without a teleconverter." CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:15:09.867" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="226" PostId="364" Score="3" Text="@jrista - the fact that you see them as common demonstrates the 'broken windows' effect that we're trying to curtail. On SO, 10k users have been voting to close and delete most joke or 'best of' or 'list of' questions. If we permit a few of these, people will naturally want to start more discussions, which is not what we want. In the not too distant future, you'll have to work rather hard to find a 'permitted' disucssion on SO (outside of meta)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:38:36.367" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="227" PostId="430" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind that pointing the flash at the ceiling isn't very effective if the ceiling is really high or vaulted." CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:40:31.777" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="228" PostId="354" Score="1" Text="But shooting wide open can also produce less sharp images. Might not be a big deal depending on how large you're publishing your images though." CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:44:38.337" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="229" PostId="353" Score="1" Text="Under exposing might be the only option on cameras that don't support the higher ISO ranges though. Often 1600 ISO (its maximum) on my camera does the job but if I need something faster my only option is to under expose. That being said there are some nifty softwares that can de-noise images." CreationDate="2010-07-16T05:48:29.000" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="230" PostId="452" Text="This is great. Very helpful. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T06:04:03.850" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="231" PostId="364" Text="@Tim: I've started a discussion on meta for this. I'll move the rest of my discussion there." CreationDate="2010-07-16T06:17:23.903" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="232" PostId="90" Text="@david how would you describe that then? It's not an application, and it's avaialble from the drivers section of the Canon website..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T06:37:06.030" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="233" PostId="289" Score="3" Text="how so? can you elaborate for our edification?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T06:58:06.957" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="234" PostId="294" Score="3" Text="It should never be known as the &quot;Focal Length Multiplier&quot; as there is no multiplication of focal length going on. It is purely a crop factor, to work out the equivalent focal length for the same field of view on a 35mm sized sensor/film" CreationDate="2010-07-16T07:05:46.487" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="235" PostId="486" Score="1" Text="It can actually be a cheaper way of buying lenses as well, if the seller doesn't realise that they'd work on a digital body..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T07:08:10.503" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="236" PostId="487" Score="4" Text="This is really impossible to answer. In the entry level range, most of the stuff is of similar quality. You also don't tell anything about the size (pocket, bigger), and what you would like to do with the camera (which would tell us if you need a compact or a DSLR)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T07:09:37.617" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="237" PostId="294" Text="@Rowland - I personally use the &quot;Crop Factor&quot; term but the &quot;Focal Length Multiplier&quot; term is widely used as well that is the reason I mentioned it here" CreationDate="2010-07-16T07:12:40.433" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="238" PostId="230" Score="1" Text="@Reid: Doh, I even googled &quot;panorama&quot; to check I was spelling that right. should have paid more attention to the rest of it." CreationDate="2010-07-16T07:50:30.513" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="240" PostId="491" Text="interesting idea - never heard of that before" CreationDate="2010-07-16T07:59:52.363" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="241" PostId="499" Text="Cost? Is there a freeware version or trial?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:00:47.553" UserId="133" />
  <row Id="242" PostId="499" Text="Both of them cost money.&#xA;Both of them have a 30 days trial.&#xA;Go to:&#xA;http://www.topazlabs.com &#xA;Or &#xA;http://www.imagenomic.com&#xA;&#xA;Enjoy." CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:04:35.720" UserId="114" />
  <row Id="243" PostId="38" Score="2" Text="+1 for the use of &quot;bokeh&quot; which I'd never heard of and now reading about on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bokeh" CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:07:31.097" UserId="15" />
  <row Id="244" PostId="487" Score="1" Text="I know, just wanted to know what others recommend; so that I'll get a head start to my search.&#xA;Basically, I'm not going to pursue photography career; i'm looking to spend sometime took some pictures; which will give some kind of satisfaction :)  " CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:18:59.117" UserId="173" />
  <row Id="246" PostId="487" Score="1" Text="Looking for pocket size cam, which can be tuck into my backpack..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:20:22.657" UserId="173" />
  <row Id="247" PostId="501" Score="1" Text="Yes, I'm looking for everyone's personal interest; then I'll go for my own research to find a suitable one." CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:21:27.787" UserId="173" />
  <row Id="248" PostId="353" Score="1" Text="The fast 50mm lens is a great buy but I'm not sure that it would be so useful at parties unless OP just wants to get head &amp; shoulders portraits. I suggest OP should try shooting his kit lens at 50mm before buying." CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:36:16.737" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="249" PostId="430" Score="1" Text="Also you have to be aware of ceiling colour!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:37:14.893" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="250" PostId="495" Text="Moderator should merge this question with the question Rowland mentioned." CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:42:37.300" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="251" PostId="495" Text="@gabr it will happen automatically when enough people vote to close as a duplicate..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:46:18.553" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="252" PostId="508" Score="4" Text="Thanks jrista, really nice answer, now if someone would add Tamron, Tokina, Sony/Minolta, FourThirds and Pentax (more?) to the list ... :-)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T08:53:36.883" UserId="129" />
  <row Id="253" PostId="472" Text="Shouldn't most of regular office papers suffice?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:07:09.127" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="254" PostId="494" Text="I don't think this question concerns moving pictures. I think 'film' means the use of an analog camera to take pictures. " CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:11:28.167" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="255" PostId="497" Text="This is rather subjective. I too have Velvia film, but the colors reproduced are a function of the light that goes through the slide, so you can't compare that to print at all, digital or analog." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:14:25.890" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="256" PostId="353" Text="I was planning on buying a 50mm, but yeah it won't help me at parties with people in a room. " CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:29:57.833" UserId="138" />
  <row Id="257" PostId="441" Text="I have had the same experience.  70-200L IS + 1.4 tele-converter is a great combo. I didn't buy, but I rent this combination so often that I should... " CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:30:06.663" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="258" PostId="418" Text="I vote for the canon 70-200 2.8 IS... worth it." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:32:26.087" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="259" PostId="47" Score="2" Text="I'm on the canon side but the sharpness and the low-light capabilities really blew me away when I upgraded from the f/1.8 to the f/1.4 50mm lens." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:35:37.087" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="260" PostId="375" Score="1" Text="I was going to suggest that, but as Rismo would surely come up with that by himself I concluded he has some kind of fixed flash-umbrella mount that doesn't let him try that and wonders whether he should get a different one." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:49:18.163" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="262" PostId="10" Text="A leg keeps popping off my SLR Gorillapod and now I don't trust it with anything other than cheap flashes. It also has become much looser over time..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:50:05.433" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="263" PostId="527" Score="1" Text="I love this book - great situation specific hints and tips and small enough to lug around when starting out." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:54:10.550" UserId="17" />
  <row Id="264" PostId="95" Text="I bought the f1.8 and it was a great lens, notice the word *was* though, I dropped it and the glass fell out.&#xA;&#xA;I now have the 1.4." CreationDate="2010-07-16T09:55:48.630" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="265" PostId="10" Text="I agree. I have a Gorillapod that I use with my SLR and love it." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:16:23.717" />
  <row Id="266" PostId="508" Text="I looked for info on Tamron's lenses, haven't found anything definitive yet. Hopefully there is some info on Sony and Pentax. Not really sure about the rest." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:19:21.170" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="267" PostId="395" Text="I think Strobist is great, but make sure you fully understand the basics first such as aperture and exposure." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:23:26.237" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="268" PostId="536" Text="Thanks for the suggestion of a virtual server. I'm a software engineer so this doesn't scare me too much.&#xA;Does dropbox require client-side software to be running?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:34:37.350" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="269" PostId="402" Score="4" Text="I find this a helpful question.  The answers have introduced me to photographers of whom I had not previously heard.  Photography as an art is inherently subjective, so we are going to have to tolerate some subjectivity.  The hard part is knowing when it's helpful and when it isn't.  +1" CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:38:42.323" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="270" PostId="536" Text="@Matt. No, dropbox has a web front end (and an optional client sync app). Free space is limited to 2gb (with a bit more available via a referrals scheme), paid for accounts come in at 50Gb @ $9.99 per month and 100gb @ $19.99 per month. (discounts at $99 and $199 per year respectively). There doesn't seem to be a minimum term, so you could just pay for the account while you are on holiday, then download and close the account afterwards." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:45:24.513" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="271" PostId="497" Text="It is subjective. I said it's an opinion and I didn't compare projection to print. Still, the effect of projecting a slide (doesn't even have to be Velvia) is what keeps me shooting it." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:48:42.840" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="272" PostId="538" Text="I've had good results with NeatImage, but now that my workflow has moved to Lightroom I just use that." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:50:02.310" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="273" PostId="536" Text="@Radius: Where are you finding a VPS with significant storage for $5 per month? I can't find anything better than 10gb at the bottom and and those prices start at $20 per month." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:51:19.547" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="274" PostId="512" Text="Every time when you change film would be more correct. And yes, that's a good reason even now when the variety of different films has narrowed from what it used to be. One can pick BW film, negative, slide, different sensitivities, different grain structures." CreationDate="2010-07-16T10:55:01.240" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="275" PostId="487" Score="1" Text="Y its still being voted down?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:11:06.817" UserId="173" />
  <row Id="276" PostId="510" Text="Unfortunately, the Nikon D-40 and D-90 aren't sealed .. I think only the magnesium bodies are sealed, as far as Nikon goes? I'm still worried about the zoom 'breathing' that air in and out of the camera." CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:18:14.493" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="277" PostId="546" Text="I can't answer your question, but I would like to know what your work flow is." CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:29:58.923" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="278" PostId="519" Text="I completely disagree with you about UV filters being a waste.  " CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:31:00.713" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="279" PostId="493" Text="Havent used it myself, but I would be concerned about lack of control" CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:33:49.213" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="280" PostId="300" Text="Only 9Gb? that's not so bad - I've well over 50Gb to worry about..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:39:57.377" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="281" PostId="439" Text="I was looking for either another lens or for folks who have tried the 70-200/tele combo" CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:40:06.253" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="282" PostId="307" Score="2" Text="More or less identical to my workflow -- only tweak I have is to use memory cards in rotation, and keep files on there until the card comes around to being reused (so, with 3x4Gb cards, you have the &quot;current&quot; card, and the last 8Gb ready to re-download if required) This backup plan worked for me when my laptop suffered a disk failure last year, as I could restore everything to a new machine with no files lost." CreationDate="2010-07-16T11:43:34.377" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="283" PostId="351" Text="I've tried to focus on certain subjects for a week or so and taken a few short trips. I've got a few other ideas, but I'd like to know how others handle this, because I'm sure I'm not the first to experience it." CreationDate="2010-07-16T12:31:39.490" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="284" PostId="550" Text="Excellent suggestion. I just looked at it and it's a good offering. I trust Google not to go bust for example!&#xA;&#xA;However, I just tried the web based upload page and annoyingly you can't select multiple images to upload in one go, you have to upload batches of 5 photos. I know it wasn't in my original requirements list (typical user!) but it would be a deal breaker.&#xA;&#xA;Flickr (and even gmail) have a much friendlier drag-and-drop interface for multiple files (must be flash or html 5 I suppose)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T12:32:56.790" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="285" PostId="535" Score="3" Text="+1 completely agree -- sunrise/sunset are often referred to as the &quot;golden hours&quot; as they're so good for landscape shots (the light will also tend to be warmer, as well as having lower contrast too)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T12:38:33.250" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="286" PostId="550" Text="Supposedly if you use Internet Explorer you can bulk upload from the web interface. (Google has an ActiveX control for bulk uploading: http://picasa.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?hl=en&amp;answer=48363) Does that work for you?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T12:47:20.630" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="287" PostId="544" Text="Thanks for the links to the site (looks like a good site) however your sigma link refers to a different lens. It seems they don't have a review for the 18-50mm (macro version)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T12:50:07.813" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="288" PostId="544" Score="2" Text="The version of the Sigma lens he's talking about (the Macro version) doesn't seem to be on photozone.de." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:02:58.083" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="289" PostId="519" Score="2" Text="OK, we disagree on whether or not you should use a UV filter. Fine. Personal preference and all that.&#xA;&#xA;I actually think they are useful if you're taking photos in the rain or in a sandstorm.&#xA;&#xA;They have downsides too:&#xA; - You're adding glass (less is more)&#xA; - You're adding a layer of air&#xA; - Increasing chance of flare&#xA; - Cost money (and you don't want to get a cheap one)&#xA;&#xA;A simple lens hood offers better protection for most types of knocks." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:05:13.397" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="290" PostId="548" Score="2" Text="Subjective, I disagree!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:07:30.333" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="291" PostId="548" Text="see also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:16:12.467" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="292" PostId="546" Text="@reuscam I tend to shot RAW and I am using solely Lightroom for post processing. After import and selecting photos I want to work on I usually test a couple of presets on one photo to get the look I am interested in, sometimes doing some small adjustments. After I am happy with the result I would apply the setting to other pictures from the same set taken in the similar condition followed by some small adjustments again if necessary. Selecting the development preset is the start point here so I was wondering if I could optimise it a bit. " CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:19:32.100" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="293" PostId="546" Text="Also I sometimes use laptop without a mouse and scrolling through the presets with the touch pad is far from being smooth." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:21:10.893" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="294" PostId="472" Score="1" Text="Office papers have brighteners in them - basically, they're flourescent. Also, no one's made any effort to make them a pure white. You could check with a colorimeter, though make sure the spot you check is illuminated, not shadowed, to capture the flourescence." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:24:26.550" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="295" PostId="219" Score="19" Text="And then remember to take pictures with it!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:24:29.357" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="296" PostId="241" Text="Most of the cameras a beginner is likely to have are lacking most manual controls." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:26:42.333" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="297" PostId="553" Text="Noise Ninja comes built-in with Bibble." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:29:55.913" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="298" PostId="548" Text="yes, many shared there show that it has saved a lens, or should be used to prevent damage." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:34:51.737" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="299" PostId="553" Text="What is Bibble?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:35:57.537" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="300" PostId="546" Text="I understand your difficulties.  I know its not the right direction you want the answers to go, but photoshop offers two things that would help above and beyond lightroom - actions (basically macros) and layers.  This way you can automatically create layers and apply all your typical adjustments, then go back and either tweak or completely disable each one.  Sorry, don't know about lightroom though." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:38:18.543" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="301" PostId="561" Score="1" Text="any idea about raw support?  When I started with gimp, I don't think it supported my canon raw, and I wasn't happy with the layer support." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:40:24.967" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="302" PostId="519" Score="4" Text="The benefit or otherwise of UV filters is what hackers refer to a a &quot;religious issue&quot; that is:  there are some who feel passionately that UV is essential, while some believe with equal passion that it is a waste of time.  Presonally, I can see the arguments on both sides, and I use UV filters on some lenses but not all.  Can we not realise that this is the case and live in peace all the same?  Let us save our wrath (downvotes) for those who are factually inaccurate.  " CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:41:50.720" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="303" PostId="338" Score="1" Text="Not often, but it does happen.  I haven't had any problems recording videos yet, so I assume a class 6 is &quot;good enough&quot;, but I'd really like to be able to prove it." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:41:52.607" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="304" PostId="131" Text="Data Plot is my favorite." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:41:55.430" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="305" PostId="555" Text="Does CHDK work on Canon DSLRs or just P&amp;S? I thought it was the latter." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:42:33.307" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="306" PostId="332" Text="yea, the lighting at the fight shows tends to be quite... bad.  and my current camera the flash is useless in action shots b/c it sometimes will go right away, and other times takes a while to do it's thing. (could be from being dropped on concrete, or not)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:43:49.327" UserId="83" />
  <row Id="307" PostId="561" Score="1" Text="GIMP does support raw, I think via the dcraw plugin?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:44:02.760" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="308" PostId="70" Text="Don't forget to accept an answer (click the checkmark next to the answer that accurately answers your question)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:44:09.233" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="309" PostId="522" Score="1" Text="I think the right question is: I'm considering the Sigma and the Tamron. Which, or both, is sufficiently sharp? Also keep in mind that usually/often the limiting factor in sharpness is technique, not the lens." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:45:34.393" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="310" PostId="562" Score="1" Text="This shouldn't be much of a problem until you get to really advanced stuff; most cameras only take 8 bits, and most monitors only display 8 bits." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:47:07.493" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="311" PostId="550" Text="Nope, I'm currently using Google Chrome on Ubuntu (Linux).&#xA;&#xA;Thanks though." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:47:34.920" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="312" PostId="7" Score="6" Text="Also note that longer lenses create better DOF." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:47:50.707" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="313" PostId="521" Text="Don't forget to accept an answer (click the checkmark next to the answer that accurately answers your question).  :) Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:49:21.077" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="314" PostId="519" Text="Hehe, my thoughts exactly :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:49:35.133" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="315" PostId="561" Text="Yeah, there's a plugin for it. It's likely improved greatly since you last used it, reuscam." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:51:48.700" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="316" PostId="383" Text="I agree with @che, but the more general question &quot;what are good filters&quot; is a worthwhile one, I think.  " CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:53:45.840" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="317" PostId="134" Score="1" Text="Depending on where you live, some places (i.e. Adorama) will let you rent pretty much any DSLR they carry, along with an assortment of lenses. Its always better to try before you buy :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:57:14.303" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="318" PostId="562" Score="3" Text="The reason why it's been delayed so long is that they decided to create a library called GEGL to do it. GEGL allows completely non-destructive editing, and easy addition of other commonly-requested features like layer styles, adjustment layers, the ability to use any plugin (Noise, Gaussian blur, noise removal etc.) as a brush, the ability to go back and change any edit at any time, versioning control, undo history stored in file, etc." CreationDate="2010-07-16T13:59:58.650" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="319" PostId="566" Score="2" Text="Could this possibly be rear curtain sync?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:00:49.207" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="320" PostId="555" Score="1" Text="Seems to just be the point-and-shoots; however, on a DSLR, you already have good manual controls, so it's not as useful." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:02:40.263" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="321" PostId="394" Score="1" Text="DPS is awesome, been reading it since I bought my SLR and it has taught me a lot.  Love the little challenges too, although need to think more about entering them!  Some nice shots on display as well, great for inspiration" CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:07:42.670" UserId="17" />
  <row Id="322" PostId="550" Text="So am I. :) Oh well." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:10:32.743" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="323" PostId="573" Text="this is good info.  I would like to see a similar post for canon bodies" CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:20:27.383" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="324" PostId="90" Score="1" Text="@Rowland I guess I would simply call it accessory software.  &#xA;&#xA;Driver's are pretty specific (at least related to Windows) ... they control how the OS interfaces with hardware.  In the case of Canon digicams, the drivers are built into the OS." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:30:54.550" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="325" PostId="465" Score="1" Text="Agree.  Tags, colors, or stars are the workaround." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:38:57.183" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="326" PostId="354" Text="Good point, although you don't necessarily need to shoot &quot;wide&quot; open... f/2.8 would still be a step up from the f/3.5 he maxes out at now." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:44:54.517" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="327" PostId="307" Text="Yes, rotation is very important! Thanks for mentioning that." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:47:08.317" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="328" PostId="573" Text="I selected this as the accepted answer since this answers the first question of my post." CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:48:35.897" UserId="87" />
  <row Id="329" PostId="219" Text="@snostorm: Good point! LOL :D" CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:54:35.727" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="330" PostId="462" Score="2" Text="@Tim I can see the next post on medical.stackexchange.com: &quot;I got mauled by a protective mother opossum - where's the best place for rabies shots and stitches?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-16T14:58:34.843" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="331" PostId="586" Text="+1 for a good question.  I know some very good landscape guys that use color casting filters, rather than post process, despite having access to photoshop." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:00:26.820" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="332" PostId="381" Text="Changed the tags. Not really a question about 'Canon'. :-)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:01:06.083" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="333" PostId="333" Text="@andy I'm afraid I've never used Lightroom (or Aperture or similar) so I'm not really sure." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:03:30.680" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="334" PostId="553" Text="@reuscam: Bibble is a RAW editor, I used it a while (v4 and v5) before switching to LR. See http://www.bibblelabs.com/" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:05:41.940" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="335" PostId="587" Score="2" Text="Note that you can duplicate the ND effect by taking multiple exposures and combining them using HDR techniques (and the result doesn't have to look like HDR)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:06:22.157" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="336" PostId="564" Text="thanks for answer, I am not planing to use any external tools so will have to live with the way it works" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:09:49.573" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="337" PostId="462" Text="@Jordan H - It is funny, but believe it or not rabies is an occupational hazard to anyone that shoots wildlife (with or without a camera)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:10:48.993" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="338" PostId="482" Text="+1 I'm also using this tool. It's quite easy to use and gives great results." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:11:02.520" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="339" PostId="560" Text="Was that a local/independent, or a chain (as I'm in the UK as well)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:11:08.323" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="340" PostId="546" Text="@reuscam, that for the hints. I am not planing to go the photoshop route but it is always good to know what it has to offer" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:11:20.023" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="341" PostId="581" Score="1" Text="I think this question is off topic because this site is for questions about how to do photgraphy / use &amp; choose photgraphy equipment and not about photography services." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:13:44.407" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="342" PostId="594" Text="I'm not able to explain this as well as here: http://www.uscoles.com/fstop.htm a great explanation" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:15:46.887" UserId="34" />
  <row Id="343" PostId="562" Text="@snostorm, the higher bit depth is useful because it preserves precision during the computation. I added an example to clarify. This answer does not deserve a downvote." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:23:12.307" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="344" PostId="555" Text="An example would be: on my Nikon D90, button remapping is possible, but extremely limited. Hacking could increase this flexibility." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:31:07.757" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="345" PostId="613" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/470/can-i-make-my-own-expodisc" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:34:01.627" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="346" PostId="455" Text="thanks, that looks good" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:36:00.627" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="347" PostId="562" Score="1" Text="To snostorm's point, please note the release notes for GIMP 2.6: the first cut of GEGL support (which works in a 32-bit color space, as mentioned) has already been completed. You can try this out today, by checking the &quot;Use GEGL&quot; checkbox under the &quot;Colors&quot; dropdown menu. Which is to say, this is mostly no longer a problem, and will likely be the default in future releases. http://www.gimp.org/release-notes/gimp-2.6.html" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:37:16.727" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="348" PostId="595" Score="3" Text="Can you provide a link for DCRaw being used in Photoshop? I'm skeptical." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:37:23.793" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="349" PostId="599" Score="2" Text="Your answer is mostly correct. Minor adjustments needed though; the next smaller full f-stop after f/2.8 is f/4, not f/5.6 (it comes after f/4). f/4 has an *area* that is half of that for f/2.8. This means that 1/60 sec at f/2.8 will give the same exposure as 1/30 sec at f/4." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:37:55.293" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="350" PostId="593" Score="2" Text="No need to say you're being stupid - it's a good question." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:38:41.253" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="351" PostId="562" Text="And, for the geeks, a link to the GEGL library itself: http://www.gegl.org/" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:38:45.620" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="352" PostId="583" Text="Thanks for a pithy answer.  :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:40:04.000" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="353" PostId="595" Text="@Reid From the link already there &quot;They can call dcraw from a graphical interface, paste pieces of dcraw.c into their code, or just use dcraw.c as the documentation that camera makers refuse to provide: &quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:41:43.313" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="354" PostId="353" Text="Nikon has a 35mm f/1.8 that's cheap ($200); not sure if there's a Canon equivalent." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:41:44.810" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="355" PostId="595" Text="@Reid I also believe the &quot;about box&quot; also references DCRaw, although I'm away from a machine with PS installed at present" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:42:55.060" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="356" PostId="353" Text="Thanks @Jonathon - I added that point." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:43:26.853" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="357" PostId="562" Text="@esm, is 32-bit operation considered stable or is it still experimental?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:46:51.473" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="358" PostId="614" Score="2" Text="Wow... hadn't seen any that cheap... thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:47:31.627" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="359" PostId="611" Text="Why will post-production will always lower picture quality? Or did you just mean if you're shooting JPEG?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:48:28.647" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="360" PostId="614" Text="Sure! If you think this is the best answer, please do mark it as &quot;accepted&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:48:39.787" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="361" PostId="582" Text="mAh. mAh. mAh. I can't say that enough. But, read the packaging very carefully; here's an example of an off-brand battery trying to trick buyers into thinking the rating is better than it actually is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ladyada/4771553975/" CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:50:22.657" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="362" PostId="55" Score="3" Text="I've used rocket blowers, but I don't blow; I squeeze the rocket away from the camera, and release when it's close to the surface I'm trying to clean. ie. Use it as a vacuum, rather than a blower." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:52:58.537" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="363" PostId="615" Score="2" Text="Keep in mind that color balance of the camera's LCD may be poor, as might the viewing conditions." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:53:13.887" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="364" PostId="611" Text="Assertion 2 is incorrect for raw." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:54:31.500" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="365" PostId="611" Score="1" Text="Why the -1? &#xA;&#xA;You always lose quality because you always play with a fixed amount of data. If you shoot RAW and you transform to JPEG you have quality loss already, so it won't affect you. If you use RAW and store the post-processed image in TIFF then you will have quality-loss in comparison with the RAW.&#xA;&#xA;I'd even equate this to the conservation of energy. There is no way you can touch something in photoshop and increase quality. The same with optics, anything you put in front will lower quality. It's how the world works." CreationDate="2010-07-16T15:58:35.180" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="367" PostId="612" Text="yesyesyesyes.  I was going to say this.  I loved this little camera (also my dad's).  I loved how small the 50mm and 28mm lenses were--they barely stuck out!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:00:52.433" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="369" PostId="614" Text="I've also seen grey-keyrings available quite cheaply, and you'll always tend to have them on you - they're more suited for calibrating white balance, however." CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:04:08.953" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="370" PostId="270" Score="1" Text="I love the 18-200!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:05:11.120" UserId="56" />
  <row Id="371" PostId="622" Text="They do, in fact. I grabbed some out of the bottom of my bag, prayed they still had some charge .. and they did. The last time I charged them was the previous new year's eve." CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:16:42.903" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="372" PostId="599" Score="1" Text="Another correction: The f-stop does not measure the physical size of the aperture, it measures how large it looks when viewed from the front lens, i.e. how much light it actually lets in." CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:20:17.940" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="373" PostId="584" Text="Very good point!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:35:53.260" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="374" PostId="599" Text="@Guffa: are you really sure? Can you provide a reference (it's the first time I hear about it)? I have always read that it was simply the focal length divided by the aperture diameter." CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:37:02.060" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="375" PostId="595" Text="You have a good answer, just delete the Photoshop part." CreationDate="2010-07-16T16:40:47.560" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="376" PostId="632" Text="Canon's software comes with this bundled in.  Are you sure your camera did not come with a software disk that provides this functionality?  Or have you tried Nikon's, and want an alternative?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:01:04.350" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="377" PostId="610" Score="4" Text="Nothing grinds my gears more than seeing a perfect shot but feeling really awkward asking someone on a bus for a photo." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:08:14.260" UserId="84" />
  <row Id="378" PostId="631" Score="4" Text="If anyone else wonders what HMI is: it's a kind of arc light. See Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrargyrum_medium-arc_iodide_lamp ... &quot;HMI lamps have been known to explode violently at the end of their lifetime or if stressed enough&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:09:35.163" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="379" PostId="632" Text="My understanding is this software is not included with the camera. Nikon sells software that includes this feature but it's over $100." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:34:15.793" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="380" PostId="637" Text="I think this really depends on the model - what are you using? Although often you can get to the focussing screen if you take the lens off and look above the mirror (assuming DSLR)." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:37:19.690" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="381" PostId="638" Text="There are 3600 seconds in one hour so 24*3600 = 86.400 frames" CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:42:00.977" UserId="87" />
  <row Id="382" PostId="637" Text="30D.  Don't have it handy, so I can't look see it if its accessible.  I figured I would have to mail it in to Canon." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:46:57.053" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="383" PostId="247" Text="+1, for some reason my 50mm f/1.4 always turns out the one lens I walk out of the house with. " CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:48:34.087" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="384" PostId="562" Text="Highly experimental, and it doesn't actually do much in GIMP 2.6. In GIMP 2.8 it's much more useful (It does the layer projection in 16-bit), but still experimental and off by default. &#xA;&#xA;(@Reid: Sorry about that! Downvote removed, upvoted instead.)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:53:18.740" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="385" PostId="241" Score="1" Text="@snostorm This might be true if they start with an old p&amp;s, but not otherwise.  The only feature that seems to have gone out of fashion with today's p&amp;s cameras is optical viewfinders.  The Canon Powershot S90 I bought a couple of months ago lets me control almost as much manually as my old Nikon D70s." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:53:44.090" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="386" PostId="298" Score="1" Text="@Josh: I've seen some Flickr batch download utilities that might let you do this... probably not &quot;easy&quot; per se." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:57:11.430" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="387" PostId="363" Score="9" Text="Don't be fooled by &quot;more megapixels = better&quot; either." CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:57:28.233" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="388" PostId="448" Text="Hm, that looks good indeed. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T17:57:38.497" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="389" PostId="176" Score="1" Text="+1 for ISO, shutter speed, aperture relationship.  Shooting RAW is a good idea too, so you can edit later.  Post-processing is definitely something I need to learn." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:00:17.713" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="390" PostId="632" Text="Not for Windows, but I use Sofortbild on the Mac. It works nicely and it's free. " CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:01:25.167" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="391" PostId="610" Score="2" Text="You're definitely thinking of the right lens range for this." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:04:02.807" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="392" PostId="644" Score="2" Text="Why ask the question if you provide the answer yourself? ;)&#xA;I definitely agree with the second item: shoot RAW, modify WB as needed afterwards." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:04:05.520" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="393" PostId="645" Score="2" Text="Suggested to close since it is off-topic. " CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:05:42.663" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="394" PostId="645" Text="Agree, off-topic (consensus on meta is that video questions belong on a separate site)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:07:04.860" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="395" PostId="645" Text="Fair enough. Let's close this." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:09:14.713" UserId="203" />
  <row Id="396" PostId="435" Score="2" Text="Especially since the software is so much better than typical forum software. If the community and content can rise to the level of quality of the software and keep growing, I'd be shocked if it doesn't turn up top answers in Google all the time, a year from now. Wow this is getting Meta-ish." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:10:55.677" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="397" PostId="611" Text="You aren't taking into account that photos don't have to match the original optical image. Therefore I can alter a photo in GIMP and have it come out at a higher quality than it was before, even though it's a minutely less accurate representation of the scene. (Your argument does hold for scientific imagery; but we are talking about art, right?)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:11:41.590" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="398" PostId="599" Score="2" Text="@Frefrik: Yes, it is the focal length divided by the aperture diameter, but it's not the actual aperture diameter, but the effective aperture diameter. http://chestofbooks.com/arts/photography/The-Sinclair-Handbook-Of-Photography/The-Effective-Aperture-of-a-Stop.html If it was the actual aperture diameter, different lenses would give completely different exposure for the same f-stop setting." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:11:43.883" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="399" PostId="638" Text="This may be off-topic since it's regarding motion, not still photography." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:13:42.723" UserId="203" />
  <row Id="400" PostId="644" Score="4" Text="So that the question can be found by other photographers that don't know the answer. Other members are welcome to enhance this answer or add other answers." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:15:29.240" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="401" PostId="638" Score="2" Text="Per discussion on meta this seems rather off-topic here. You might want to participate on Video a Film production site proposal: http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production" CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:18:17.193" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="402" PostId="562" Text="Thanks @sno and @esm. Answer edited." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:23:52.360" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="403" PostId="630" Score="2" Text="+1 for courage." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:24:20.767" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="404" PostId="279" Text="+1 wow you're answers are thorough! :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:25:01.220" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="405" PostId="649" Text="Nice, I'm tired of using PowerPoint :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:29:08.590" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="406" PostId="653" Text="Aren't there more inexpensive options, without automatic focus etc.? At that price range, I'd be better off with a real macro lens, no?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:40:54.103" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="407" PostId="611" Score="2" Text="Yeah, I'm not talking about subjective quality. By quality I'm talking of the actual pixel information. Every time you clone, you move the histogram, play with contrast, etc, you are taking a bit out of the overall quality of the image. The question is by what degree do you find it acceptable. What I'm saying is: take a picture using a filter, then take the same picture and apply the filter in post-production, there is NO way those two pictures will have the same quality of information." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:41:14.073" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="408" PostId="581" Score="6" Text="At the same time, I believe this could be helpful for those wanting to become professional photographers as to what to do/not do." CreationDate="2010-07-16T18:46:04.657" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="409" PostId="279" Score="1" Text="@Marc: Thanks. :) I love photography, and while my artistic skill may be a bit lacking, my technical skill is pretty solid. I like sharing it. :D" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:05:34.567" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="410" PostId="599" Text="@Guffa: thanks, tought me something new today :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:07:52.767" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="412" PostId="652" Text="How did the prices compare to the out of stock prices online?" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:09:36.023" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="413" PostId="665" Score="2" Text="And the reason to keep lens from stray light is because it lowers contrast and produces flare." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:10:56.770" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="414" PostId="665" Text="@Karel Thanks, edited the answer to include those details." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:14:35.607" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="415" PostId="35" Score="4" Text="Technically this answer isn't quite correct. You can have a longer lens with the exact same DoF as a shorter lens, and the same f-stop, and yet the longer lens can have more background blur. See the link in my answer for details." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:15:03.280" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="416" PostId="496" Score="6" Text="Typoe in question title" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:15:43.933" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="417" PostId="670" Score="1" Text="Sniper discussions may also apply" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:26:08.417" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="418" PostId="666" Text="That's actually a cool shot - good job! A coupling ring is definitely the way to go if you want to do this." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:27:33.250" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="420" PostId="652" Text="@reuscam: If I remember correctly, they were a little more. I think I found the filter holder kit online for about $75, but it was about $85 in the store. I don't remember the prices being dramatically different, but they were a little higher across the board, sadly. If you find an online store that sells them, PLEASE, let us know! :D" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:29:30.657" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="421" PostId="96" Score="1" Text="But this is subjective and I am looking for a recommendation." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:29:46.803" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="422" PostId="623" Score="1" Text="I agree. I've tried Autoano Pro and Hugin and Hugin's not even close. Even when I match up the features by hand, Hugin doesn't stitch things together very well. With Autopano Pro, you just drag, drop and go." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:33:33.593" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="423" PostId="584" Text="You can always carry another set of batteries and with the current power consumption by average cameras (including DSLRs) it is not that much of a factor in my opinion." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:35:57.427" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="424" PostId="665" Score="1" Text="+1 for huge telephoto" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:37:18.517" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="425" PostId="662" Score="1" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/399/why-are-some-lens-hoods-petal-shaped-and-others-not - some good answers there" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:37:46.067" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="426" PostId="584" Text="true, granted power problems happen only in extreme cases, but extreme cases make for great photographs as well :) In the case of mountain climbing batteries will lose their juice really fast in low temperatures, and you are adding weight with extra batteries." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:39:54.093" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="427" PostId="644" Text="And if my answers are wrong or not as good as other answers then they can be voted on appropriately. As I was writing the question I researched it and realized I was sort of answering it so I split it up. The question would have been too long and would have been partly answered, which is weird." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:43:05.770" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="428" PostId="157" Score="5" Text="The best camera is the one that's with you. -- http://www.thebestcamera.com/book.html" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:47:17.337" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="429" PostId="425" Score="3" Text="+1 for Thom, -1 for Ken :)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:47:39.567" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="430" PostId="390" Score="3" Text="The Online Photographer is one of the very few places that does not mutter about equipment all the time. Recommended." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:49:25.303" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="431" PostId="652" Text="This is what I snagged the other day after months of searching, although I'm not sure the price beats any local places: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009R7WG/ref=oss_product" CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:50:38.063" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="432" PostId="653" Score="1" Text="@Bossykena, yes sure, see @reuscam answer or look here: http://haodascreen.com/reversing.aspx." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:51:19.277" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="433" PostId="677" Score="7" Text="Your price range makes an impact on this discussion.  Its very tempting to recommend the 1700$ 70-200L IS USM Canon lens, but that might not suit you." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:51:38.980" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="434" PostId="623" Score="1" Text="+1 for AutoPano; it's completely idiot-proof, and I liked the results enough to pay for the Pro version." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:55:00.203" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="435" PostId="579" Text="+1 on peer reviews ... and don't get upset if someone doesn't like a picture." CreationDate="2010-07-16T19:58:40.617" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="436" PostId="652" Text="Seems about right ($119). If you are only buying one, the difference might not be much. If you want to buy a bunch, buying online might save you a decent amount." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:15:19.487" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="437" PostId="604" Text="+1 (more if I could) for first linking to KRock, then mentioning his insanity :D" CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:15:31.043" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="438" PostId="687" Text="@marc - nice shot!" CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:16:52.930" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="439" PostId="583" Score="3" Text="+1, also to add: it's less with your skills as a photographer, and more about your business skills." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:18:15.093" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="440" PostId="685" Text="+1 Good answer but sometimes the 2EV difference might already be too much if the image is not well exposed." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:18:46.340" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="441" PostId="685" Text="@Marc: Yeah I edited my answer to point that out, after I saw your answer :D" CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:22:04.633" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="442" PostId="687" Text="This isn't really an answer... more of a discussion and question-asking post." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:23:56.063" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="443" PostId="687" Text="+1, because I see two comments above that could be considered answers.  1) +1, 0, -1, and 2) extreme photomatix settings." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:25:51.160" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="444" PostId="649" Text="Too much fun! http://bit.ly/aSulAj" CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:34:29.877" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="445" PostId="687" Text="Great work: it doesn't look so obviously HDRed! Not a fan of the haloey, greyed out, flat, hyper-real look." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:35:46.050" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="446" PostId="687" Score="1" Text="@Jared Updike: HDR is just a type image which allows a high dynamic range. It's the &quot;Tone Mapping&quot; that people abuse to create craptacular images that is destroying photography. Damn kids and their damn rap music." CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:40:10.533" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="447" PostId="165" Text="Also if any friends/relatives have DSLR or an SLR and maybe own some lenses that should be factored into this discision" CreationDate="2010-07-16T20:41:51.497" UserId="87" />
  <row Id="448" PostId="298" Text="Yeah, I found them too. Several of what were the more popular ones had been blocked by Flickr for some reason." CreationDate="2010-07-16T21:05:03.483" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="449" PostId="683" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind that many lowend DSLRs simply doesn't have enough dynamic range for a single frame HDR. My Nikon D60 didn't, but it works fine with Nikon D300. I assume the same is true for Canons comparable cameras as well." CreationDate="2010-07-16T21:07:31.497" UserId="207" />
  <row Id="450" PostId="508" Text="Might want a bit more detail on Nikon AF-S, since that is *really* important for folks with entry level Nikons that don't have a built in focus motor in the camera" CreationDate="2010-07-16T21:20:22.803" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="451" PostId="690" Text="Im guessing the rugby is not in the US, because of the cricket reference, is that right?  I used a 70-200 for a rugby match last weekend, and at times it was *too* close.  When the play was on the sideline just in front of me, I couldn't possibly compose a decent picture.  This is a rare occurrence, of course." CreationDate="2010-07-16T21:38:01.313" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="452" PostId="562" Score="1" Text="@snostorm: Not all cameras use only 8-bit color. For example RAW output from Canon EOS 550D has 14 bits of color depth." CreationDate="2010-07-16T21:53:28.490" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="453" PostId="418" Score="1" Text="From everything I've read the 70-200 F4 IS is the best of the bunch in every regard (save for the F4 aperture). I had the 2.8 IS, but sold it to get the 16-35F2.8 II." CreationDate="2010-07-16T22:10:30.867" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="454" PostId="685" Text="Thanks for this; it was very helpful. Things are already looking better..." CreationDate="2010-07-16T22:35:29.923" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="455" PostId="688" Text="This is all useful advice, thank you - I'm finding the Photoshop tools much easier to work with (HDR is all new to me...)" CreationDate="2010-07-16T22:37:15.443" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="456" PostId="508" Text="@Josh: I have limited knowledge of Nikon features. Feel free to edit the post to improve the information if you have useful information to add." CreationDate="2010-07-16T23:08:23.903" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="457" PostId="508" Score="2" Text="@jrista: I can't edit your post, but here is what I would throw in:&#xA;&#xA;Some Nikon DSLRs, especially lower end ones (D40, D3000, D5000) do not have a built-in autofocus motor and require AF-S lenses for autofocus.&#xA;&#xA;I don't know about AF-I and AF-N though." CreationDate="2010-07-16T23:21:19.717" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="458" PostId="443" Text="@Tim: Thanks for the VR tip. I'd never considered how VR/IS might affect a lens with a teleconverter attached." CreationDate="2010-07-17T01:40:09.290" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="459" PostId="677" Text="I'd love to just go with L series glass... but I'm generally working on a smaller budget.  I am willing to spend what I need to get good lenses, but a higher price means a longer wait :(" CreationDate="2010-07-17T02:10:08.187" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="460" PostId="668" Text="Thanks for the tip. I'll have a dig around.&#xA;&#xA;I would have thought there would be a function in Lightroom to do 'Update metadata from associated JPEG', but I can't seem to find that." CreationDate="2010-07-17T02:19:55.947" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="461" PostId="692" Text="Is the Sigma using USM or a micro-motor?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T02:25:15.547" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="462" PostId="702" Score="2" Text="Specifically, stray light coming in through the viewfinder can cause incorrect metering." CreationDate="2010-07-17T02:37:58.993" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="463" PostId="86" Text="I use DNG with my Pentax K200D. What wasn't very well supported?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T03:40:35.350" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="464" PostId="384" Score="4" Text="Please make questions that ask for a list of answers (i.e. polls or list-of-X questions) community wiki. While there not exactly the type of questions this system was designed for, at the very least the author should make them community wiki. I converted this question." CreationDate="2010-07-17T03:47:39.390" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="465" PostId="133" Text="@Dave, &quot;If you do, then one day you will find that you will want to use a piece of software that doesn't support the non-DNG format as input.&quot; seems more likely. Are proprietary formats really more supported than the open ones? " CreationDate="2010-07-17T03:50:49.013" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="466" PostId="86" Text="I believe it was that the camera could not produce compressed DNG (even though it's in the spec), so the PEF files were much smaller." CreationDate="2010-07-17T03:51:08.703" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="467" PostId="691" Text="I assume 25.4 and 36 are the height and width of the 35mm frame, respectively?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T03:55:00.727" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="468" PostId="668" Score="1" Text="I'm pretty sure Lightroom has no idea what &quot;associated JPG&quot; would be." CreationDate="2010-07-17T04:12:04.210" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="469" PostId="384" Text="@Robert I am not convinced that this should be community wiki. " CreationDate="2010-07-17T05:34:17.427" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="470" PostId="489" Text="I bought a D40 last year, the D3000 is now sinking to a similar price point that I picked my D40 up for, and this is a lot more camera for the cash.  If I was making my first purchase now the D3000 would be a serious contender." CreationDate="2010-07-17T05:39:11.223" UserId="17" />
  <row Id="471" PostId="706" Text="Is &quot;dslr&quot; really a relevant tag for this post?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T05:54:05.410" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="472" PostId="706" Text="...also, perhaps this should be community wiki?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T06:00:01.857" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="473" PostId="508" Text="ad Canon: As far as I know they don't use &quot;Mark&quot; in the name of the lenses, just roman number to indicate the version, such as &quot;Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-17T06:25:54.330" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="474" PostId="706" Score="2" Text="Discussion: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/63/photo-location-tips-on-or-off-topic" CreationDate="2010-07-17T06:27:01.020" />
  <row Id="475" PostId="691" Score="1" Text="@Reid: 25.4 is the number of millilmeters per inch, and 36 is the width of the frame. The number 3/2 comes from the ratio between the width and height, as the frame is 24x36 mm." CreationDate="2010-07-17T09:56:36.390" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="476" PostId="718" Text="+1: If you're using a Canon the TC80N3 is a great tool. I used it extensively for multiple timed exposures for astrophotography." CreationDate="2010-07-17T10:06:04.450" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="477" PostId="706" Score="2" Text="Tagged as subjective since 'best spot' depends highly on what you want to photograph (street/urban/architecture)." CreationDate="2010-07-17T10:18:48.073" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="478" PostId="683" Text="What is the dynamic range of your camera's sensor (how many bits per pixel)? Can you adjust the pixel format of the raw file?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T14:18:38.103" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="479" PostId="728" Text="That's what I tought. I will contact the store next week. Thank you :)" CreationDate="2010-07-17T14:30:02.180" UserId="213" />
  <row Id="480" PostId="562" Text="Some, yes. However, the Canon EOS 550D costs ~$1200 (Or at least it did at launch). If you're buying a camera that expensive, you are probably already a professional who uses Photoshop. (Or can afford to get it)" CreationDate="2010-07-17T14:32:38.583" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="481" PostId="711" Text="class 6 or class 10?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:00:47.567" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="482" PostId="410" Text="Guys, thanks for your comments. I currently own the following 18-55 mm Kit lens + I now bought f/1.8 50mm. Now tell me what other lenses are useful." CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:03:47.480" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="483" PostId="733" Score="5" Text="Should be Community Wiki." CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:35:37.987" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="484" PostId="728" Score="4" Text="+1, but I'd send it to Nikon. These modern zoom lenses are insanely complicated and the store may not have the appropriate tools/parts/skills (and they might send it to Nikon anyway). Good luck!" CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:38:56.177" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="485" PostId="724" Score="2" Text="Can you clarify whether your desire for FOSS is driven by price sensitivity (you want free as in beer) or philosophy/ethics (you want free as in liberty)?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:42:05.037" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="487" PostId="172" Text="Please make questions that ask for a list of answers (i.e. polls or list-of-X questions) community wiki. While there not exactly the type of questions this system was designed for, at the very least the author should make them community wiki. I converted this question.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:48:56.097" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="488" PostId="706" Score="2" Text="Questions that ask users to create a list of answers (i.e. polls or list-of-X questions), while there not exactly the type of questions this system was designed for, at the very least need to be made community wiki. I converted this question." CreationDate="2010-07-17T15:54:44.520" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="491" PostId="133" Text="Yes. DxO Optics Pro, for instance, does not accept DNG for input." CreationDate="2010-07-17T17:55:40.430" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="492" PostId="530" Text="The manual tends to tell you how to use the various functions, but not why you would want to use them. Sure, it's something you should do, but I'm not sure how much help it would be to someone who doesn't know the basics." CreationDate="2010-07-17T17:58:03.387" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="493" PostId="133" Text="Sounds like DxO Optics Pro isn't on the ball. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-17T18:30:54.913" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="494" PostId="86" Text="@Reid, Thanks. I think I'll stick with DNG since space isn't an issue and I hate extra files like side car files." CreationDate="2010-07-17T18:32:43.660" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="496" PostId="508" Text="@jrista: How is 1:1 a magnification?" CreationDate="2010-07-17T18:53:42.137" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="497" PostId="508" Score="2" Text="@Lazer: If you mean &quot;what is 1:1 magnification&quot;, it means that when you focus on a subject at the proper distance, it's image is projected onto the focal plane at &quot;life size&quot;. That means if you take a macro shot of a bee, which is about 3/4 of an inch long, it will be 3/4 of an inch long on your camera sensor (or film.) You get a one-to-one magnification, its not blown up or shrunk, when imaged by your sensor or film." CreationDate="2010-07-17T19:03:32.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="498" PostId="724" Score="3" Text="Price sensitivity is the main reason for asking this question. I would rather money to buy another lens than a software." CreationDate="2010-07-17T19:05:57.197" UserId="211" />
  <row Id="499" PostId="734" Text="nice compilation!" CreationDate="2010-07-17T19:11:28.607" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="500" PostId="749" Text="I have the Kenko tubes, and they work fine. (Note that I don't have any EF-S lenses, though.)" CreationDate="2010-07-17T20:41:50.967" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="501" PostId="133" Text="Well, in their defense, they claim not all the required information is present in the DNG to stand up to the CR2 format. " CreationDate="2010-07-17T21:09:17.920" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="502" PostId="164" Score="11" Text="This is a good question (provided that it's a community wiki which it is) and has already provided a bunch of excellent answers so it definitely shouldn't be closed." CreationDate="2010-07-17T21:53:05.330" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="503" PostId="760" Text="Ah, I see. So not all cameras support DNG in camera. That makes sense. Perhaps a list of cameras that support DNG would be useful? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/762/which-cameras-support-dng-natively" CreationDate="2010-07-17T22:21:10.553" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="504" PostId="630" Text="thanks Rezlaj, I was thinking about starting by taking photos during some local parade, sport event or similar and see how it goes from there. You are also right about the fear, but I do not think I have enough courage at the moment, so will try step by step approach" CreationDate="2010-07-17T23:09:06.750" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="505" PostId="620" Score="3" Text="I think it is a great advice, it take some sill to engage with people, but then I believe it would be worth it, I would feel much better knowing that the person is ok with me taking photos, it is probably a matter of personality. I know that it would make some types of shots impossible but from my perspective it would be more interesting to know a bit more about the person you capture on the photo. " CreationDate="2010-07-17T23:15:38.063" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="506" PostId="654" Text="Scott, thanks for sharing the shots and for good advice. I guess it is ctime to take the camera and start shooting and see what works for me best." CreationDate="2010-07-17T23:22:36.507" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="507" PostId="356" Text="Good question. I'm speaking towards digital - I have no idea what similarities or differences there may be..." CreationDate="2010-07-18T00:00:52.070" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="508" PostId="759" Score="3" Text="Maybe it is just me, but this question sounds a lot like some sort of DNG astroturf. Perhaps it could be reworded to be a little less biased towards DNG, which is not even an option on 99% of cameras out there.&#xA;&#xA;Perhaps it would be helpful if you listed some more reasons DNG works better for you, other than philosophical objections to proprietary formats? For example, if I use software that manages side-car files, why do I care about them?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:27:58.147" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="509" PostId="765" Score="1" Text="What about stools/stands? And could you be a bit more specific about backgrounds? A painted wall never seemed to work well for me..." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:30:53.367" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="510" PostId="133" Text="Curiously, I thought the idea behind DNG was future-proofing your files?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:38:06.127" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="511" PostId="120" Text="Do changes to images in LH propagate back to Bridge, and vise versa? I'm talking about RAW editing, metadata changes, etc." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:45:47.637" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="512" PostId="762" Score="2" Text="Not really sure this is a relevant topic. I would reword it to be more of a question, rather than a statement. Also, given that DNG is not a true RAW format, its viability as a &quot;raw&quot; format in cameras is kind of moot." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:47:23.747" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="513" PostId="762" Score="1" Text="What's with the downvote? This is a perfectly legitimate question. +1." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:47:59.863" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="514" PostId="762" Text="Some Leicas do, but I don't recall details." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:48:49.343" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="515" PostId="764" Text="I think the bottleneck limiting FPS is usually the speed of writing to the card rather than conversion (this is why you can often get higher FPS with JPEG even though it requires more processing)." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:50:18.327" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="516" PostId="765" Text="@Alan: Yes, a stool is needed for some photos, or a table to put pets on, but that depends on the subject. The background can be just a wall, if it's a neutral color, or a cloth." CreationDate="2010-07-18T01:55:24.367" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="517" PostId="764" Text="@Reid: JPEG writes faster since it is a compressed format. Comparing raw to raw, the native format of a camera, while it will still write considerably slower than JPEG, will likely write faster than DNG when you add in the conversion since they are both large files." CreationDate="2010-07-18T02:07:57.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="518" PostId="120" Score="1" Text="No, they don't, but if you're using Lightroom I don't know why you would use Bridge.  I'm pretty sure there aren't any functions that Bridge will do that can't be done in Lightroom." CreationDate="2010-07-18T02:36:35.037" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="519" PostId="775" Score="1" Text="+1 for copyright info. For that, make sure it makes its way into the EXIF of your output JPEGs." CreationDate="2010-07-18T02:41:01.580" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="520" PostId="751" Text="Good to know that there are 2 version, I'd certainly want the one supporting EF-S." CreationDate="2010-07-18T02:59:17.107" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="521" PostId="772" Score="1" Text="Here's Thom Hogan's take on DNG. He feels pretty much the same way I do. http://bythom.com/dng.htm" CreationDate="2010-07-18T03:04:35.473" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="522" PostId="227" Score="1" Text="That's nice to know about the service. But, if I am going to convert all my childhood films it is going to be cheaper to buy a scanner + I will then be able to quickly convert new stuff locally. " CreationDate="2010-07-18T04:20:47.807" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="523" PostId="691" Text="Thanks - I assume that ppi (pixels per inch?)and dpi(dots per inch) are just semantics, right?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T04:26:21.793" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="524" PostId="771" Text="Does it support painting? For example, if I have a power-line, can I just paint over the line and have it remove the power-line? I can with the healing brush in photoshop (which is different than the spot healing in photoshop). Can I do the same with Lightroom?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T04:51:41.197" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="525" PostId="771" Text="@Alan: To be honest, I don't think I've ever tried it that way, so I am not sure. Are you talking about Photoshop CS5 and its content-aware fill features? Or a previous version of Photoshop? " CreationDate="2010-07-18T04:55:57.547" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="526" PostId="777" Text="Funny, but true!" CreationDate="2010-07-18T05:01:13.260" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="527" PostId="775" Score="1" Text="A good point. I just found the metadata template feature in Bridge. I used to be adding the metadata after import, now I can do it up front!" CreationDate="2010-07-18T05:22:10.127" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="528" PostId="771" Text="@jrista: Nope. PS has two different healing tools. A brush that lets you paint (similar to clone), and a spot-heal brush, that specifically lets you point-and-click on a spot to heal. The latter is what Lightroom has, and it's great for dustspots, dirt, etc, but lousy for powerlines, etc." CreationDate="2010-07-18T05:31:42.393" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="529" PostId="518" Text="I disagree, cosmetic scratches rarely do anything to the value of a lens." CreationDate="2010-07-18T05:49:31.237" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="530" PostId="771" Text="@Alan: I just did a little testing, and it appears it is just a spot heal, not a brush heal. I only have version 2, however, so I am not sure if this has improved in version 3." CreationDate="2010-07-18T05:58:34.307" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="531" PostId="784" Text="@Alan: As the focal length of the lens would still be fixed, does it mean that we can move the lens by `55-18 = 37 mm`?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T06:10:27.083" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="532" PostId="784" Score="2" Text="No, the focal length is not fixed. The focal plane is. The focal length is the distance between the focal point and the focal plane. See this diagram: http://tips.romanzolin.com/articles/images/article007_image001.gif" CreationDate="2010-07-18T06:31:58.687" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="533" PostId="784" Text="@Alan: corrupt link?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T07:14:36.230" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="534" PostId="759" Score="1" Text="I didn't mean to have it come across as astroturfing. I prefer DNG for the moment and thought it might be a good question to ask about the advantages of other formats compared to DNG." CreationDate="2010-07-18T07:15:34.137" UserId="135" />
  <row Id="535" PostId="760" Text="I always convert to DNG during import to Lightroom. It does take a bit longer - but once I click on import, I go to make a coffee and when I get back the import &amp; DNG convert is done, so I don't really notice the extra time (not that I have the option of shooting in DNG)" CreationDate="2010-07-18T07:23:14.600" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="536" PostId="359" Text="Good point about upgrading. 580EX is bit better that 430EX, but having both at the same time is a completely different league." CreationDate="2010-07-18T07:26:48.663" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="537" PostId="508" Text="What is the difference between Mark I and Mark II versions in Canon?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:42:17.827" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="538" PostId="729" Score="1" Text="So much for keeping it within the stated price range..." CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:46:05.963" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="539" PostId="713" Text="I would recommend adding the type of camera that you need it for. Not all camera's have the ability to be remotely controlled." CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:48:45.533" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="540" PostId="729" Score="1" Text="You can get used one in the stated price range." CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:49:21.947" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="541" PostId="764" Text="+1 for the speed issue" CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:51:04.797" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="542" PostId="683" Score="1" Text="Here's the shocker: only a single exposure can be considered HDR, as your sensor has a higher dynamic range than the output (JPEG or print). Taking multiple exposures to achieve the same result is pseudo-HDR." CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:53:56.317" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="543" PostId="106" Score="4" Text="Multi-coated UV filters are not intended to reduce the flare that would be present if the filter wasn't attached. The multi-coating is intended to reduce the amount of flare that the UV filter produces, which is quite a lot. Any UV filter will add flare." CreationDate="2010-07-18T08:59:23.590" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="544" PostId="782" Score="1" Text="How many questions do you have?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:02:12.397" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="545" PostId="765" Score="4" Text="Pictures don't look flat because of a single light source. They look flat if the light is coming from the front and center with a hot-shoe flash. You can make excellent shots with a single flash." CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:04:12.330" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="546" PostId="79" Score="1" Text="Is ISO an acronym for something?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:09:41.943" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="547" PostId="77" Text="Is ISO an acronym for something?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:10:04.110" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="548" PostId="551" Text="Is ISO an acronym for something?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:38:57.723" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="549" PostId="465" Text="OK, that'll have to do! Cheers." CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:47:42.300" UserId="96" />
  <row Id="550" PostId="508" Score="1" Text="@Lazer: That would generally be specific to each lens. A lot of the time, differences between a I and a II or a II and a III are subtle, but important. Other times they are significant. I recommend reading http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ for details on lenses." CreationDate="2010-07-18T09:57:09.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="551" PostId="551" Text="&quot;International Standards Organisation&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-18T12:22:45.000" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="552" PostId="79" Text="ISO comes from ISO standard 12232:2006. ISO = International Organization for Standardization (although the acronym should actually be IOS! :) http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/catalogue_tc/catalogue_detail.htm?csnumber=37777" CreationDate="2010-07-18T14:15:23.110" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="553" PostId="797" Score="1" Text="I have to agree on this. Once I got my 50mm prime it helped to really focus me on learning manual settings. Also since prime lens are fixed usually they can put better glass in side, for a better picture." CreationDate="2010-07-18T14:27:53.873" UserId="218" />
  <row Id="554" PostId="764" Text="I convert my Canon CRW files to DNG and get a 20% reduction in file size, so maybe you would get a faster shooting rate with DNG ...?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T14:39:17.077" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="555" PostId="779" Text="+1: very complete answer. The choice depends on what you want to photograph and how important the framing is. A ball head is quick and easy to use but lacks control if you want to fine-tune the framing. In the situations you need full control over framing use a 3 way head or geared head." CreationDate="2010-07-18T14:39:38.027" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="556" PostId="785" Score="1" Text="Good point about the tension! I had a few occasions my camera tumbled over. I believe the Manfrotto hydrosatic ball heads don't have this issue since they use a different mechanism." CreationDate="2010-07-18T14:42:16.977" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="557" PostId="784" Text="Probably anti-hotlinking. Try this one: http://tips.romanzolin.com/articles/article007.php" CreationDate="2010-07-18T14:47:46.417" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="558" PostId="782" Text="I suggest you ask separate questions next time." CreationDate="2010-07-18T15:08:58.317" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="559" PostId="683" Text="Split up the questions and the answer: Can you show us an example (including exposure and Photomatix settings)? What processing do you do on the single RAW to get the 3(?) exposures? " CreationDate="2010-07-18T15:11:38.810" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="560" PostId="687" Text="@ahockley: Good point. I moved the questions to a comment above." CreationDate="2010-07-18T15:13:05.127" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="561" PostId="509" Score="7" Text="This answer is correct, but I want to point something out that tends to get lost in conversations like this one:&#xA;&#xA;Notice that the above answer says that as you get closer your DOF gets shallower, meaning that when you get further away your DOF gets deeper (less background blur).  This effect cancels out the effect of using a longer lens -I've studied DOF tables to confirm this and it does.  If you don't change your framing or your aperture, than using a longer lens won't help give you a more shallow DOF because you'll have to stand back further from your subject to take the shot." CreationDate="2010-07-18T16:11:06.243" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="562" PostId="115" Score="1" Text="RAW's color is actually likely to be less saturated than jpg because color is often boosted in the final jpg image through the camera's internal post processing (see your camera's menu for &quot;enhanced color&quot; vs &quot;true color&quot; type options).  " CreationDate="2010-07-18T16:50:19.030" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="563" PostId="813" Text="I was writing this up as well...I'm a slow typer :(." CreationDate="2010-07-18T17:04:15.060" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="564" PostId="795" Score="8" Text="Furthermore, when you've just got your first DSLR, many times it's best to just play with it for a while to get an idea what kind of lens would you want to spend (perhaps more signifant) money on." CreationDate="2010-07-18T17:25:22.513" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="565" PostId="765" Text="@Dave: Yes, you *can* take images with a single light source, but that is very limiting, and it's not the type of images that you usually associate with studio photo." CreationDate="2010-07-18T17:40:27.747" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="566" PostId="816" Score="6" Text="+1: I like pictures :)" CreationDate="2010-07-18T17:58:45.623" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="567" PostId="50" Text="@Reid Priedhorsky: Your suggestion looks very good as well. I think they are both technically sound, it's just a matter of taste. I personally don't like scissors ;)." CreationDate="2010-07-18T18:13:37.980" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="568" PostId="764" Text="@Hamish: I guess the CRW format is less efficient? I've noticed that my .CR2 files tend to be smaller or the same size as my .DNG files. I would kind of expect that, as the DNG contains additional information. But, good point...if the DNG is significantly smaller than the native raw, it would likely write faster. However, in general, one should expect the files to be very similar in size." CreationDate="2010-07-18T19:00:15.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="569" PostId="765" Text="Why not? Plenty of images done in the studio are done with a single light source. Sometimes combined with reflectors, sometimes not. It all depends on the look that you want to achieve." CreationDate="2010-07-18T20:00:08.590" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="570" PostId="827" Score="2" Text="4:3 and 16:9 are popular as they share sensors from video devices, which are driven by TV ratios. Quite a few of the widescreen computer monitors I've seen/used have actually been 16:10" CreationDate="2010-07-18T20:09:34.480" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="571" PostId="115" Score="2" Text="I'm referring to the possibilities during post-processing, not the unprocessed image out of the camera. Since there is more data available it is possible to get the exact color you want while retaining detail." CreationDate="2010-07-18T20:15:09.460" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="572" PostId="830" Text="I would disagree that 4:3 is considered &quot;standard&quot; for digital photos, given that the DSLRs from Canon and Nikon are 3:2." CreationDate="2010-07-18T20:33:21.833" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="573" PostId="706" Score="2" Text="Based on the discussion on meta (link above), I'm voting to close as off-topic." CreationDate="2010-07-18T20:36:12.980" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="574" PostId="830" Score="1" Text="@ahockley: Point taken, I've re-worded to differentiate between compact and SLR (and dropped the word &quot;standard&quot;). Hows that?" CreationDate="2010-07-18T20:38:40.587" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="576" PostId="765" Text="@Dave: If you have a flash and a reflector, that is two light sources. If you see that as a single light source, I can understand your confusion." CreationDate="2010-07-18T21:08:29.470" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="577" PostId="683" Score="1" Text="The sensor is 24-bit, I believe. I've stopped using the Photomatix pseudo-HDR-from-single-file thing, and instead started creating 3 distinct exposures as per Alan's answer, below - this has already improved the results. Basically, I was just being too lazy..." CreationDate="2010-07-18T22:12:42.377" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="578" PostId="751" Text="I got the Kenko tubes from Amazon.  I emailed the various resellers -- I think these days you are unlikely to see the older version." CreationDate="2010-07-18T22:47:41.057" UserId="198" />
  <row Id="579" PostId="825" Text="Thanks for that; as you mentioned, we're in the U.S., but it's an excellent place to start!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T01:09:58.680" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="580" PostId="818" Text="We considered that, but his right hand just isn't usable, which means he'd have to support the weight of the camera by his left thumb, the same one that's under the shutter, which will likely mean a lot of accidental shots. He's already a bit shaky in general, so I'm afraid we'd be pushing the limits of his dexterity with an arrangement like this." CreationDate="2010-07-19T01:17:08.007" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="581" PostId="840" Score="3" Text="The D90 is a great body. That's what I have and I love it. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-19T01:53:32.630" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="582" PostId="842" Text="The right question isn't &quot;are you using the best part of the lens&quot; but &quot;is the lens good enough in relevant parts of the frame&quot; - similar, but it's an important subtlety IMO. A little vignetting (which can be eliminated by stopping down) and edge softness are usually not a problem." CreationDate="2010-07-19T01:55:13.860" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="583" PostId="838" Score="4" Text="+1. This is HUGE. It makes the experience of using the camera much more pleasant." CreationDate="2010-07-19T01:57:58.580" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="585" PostId="826" Text="What camera do you have? That might be relevant as it tells us what your native aspect ratio is." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:05:55.067" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="586" PostId="846" Text="So if I'm shooting raw it doesn't matter? Can you explain a bit more?" CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:07:03.130" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="587" PostId="809" Text="Follow-up: be aware that reads are faster than writes, and unscrupulous manufacturers sometimes quote the read speed instead of the write speed when giving this rating." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:10:00.047" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="588" PostId="401" Text="I have tried ExifTool, and the ShutterCount is not part Exif information for a Rebel. FileNumber is though. For one of my latest .jpg files, the FileNumber was 425-2556. Does that mean I've used 4 million files?  If I took 1000 pictures a day for a year, that would be 365,000 files.  So 4 million files would be over 10 years worth." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:10:57.847" UserId="113" />
  <row Id="589" PostId="842" Text="@Reid: I didn't write it so exactly that it can be taken out of it's context like that. The meaning is of course &quot;you are avoiding the worst part of the lens&quot;, which should be obvious from the context." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:14:27.730" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="590" PostId="842" Score="1" Text="The point I was trying to make is: there's no reason to avoid the &quot;worst&quot; part of the lens if the worst parts are good enough. No reason to maximize - satisfice. I don't think I misinterpreted the context." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:21:36.167" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="591" PostId="826" Text="I've got a Panasonic GF1... I think it's native aspect ratio is 4:3." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:21:53.983" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="592" PostId="797" Score="1" Text="On the other hand, if it's a APS-C body, 50mm is a bit telephoto for a general-purpose lens. But the point stands - you can also get dirt-cheap 30-35mm primes for APS-C bodies." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:25:27.313" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="593" PostId="809" Score="1" Text="Also, for a useful chart of common &quot;X&quot; ratings to actual speeds, see Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_digital#.C3.97_rating" CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:35:47.583" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="594" PostId="844" Score="5" Text="Yeah, that last paragraph is the best advice. For example, don't hesitate on a 10-24 just because you might have a full-frame camera in 2 years." CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:55:18.503" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="595" PostId="847" Score="1" Text="A complicated initial setup wouldn't be a problem, but the netbook is probably a non-starter for a few unrelated reasons (not the least of which is concern about theft).&#xA;&#xA;The idea of solidly mounting something to the chair is *very* interesting; a pistol-grip ball head might actually be perfect for this situation, and rather than adapting a monopod, I should be able to fabricate a clamping mount myself. I'll need to take a closer look at his chair the next time I see him to see if we can do it without interfering with both his movement and his caretakers' ability to work with him. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T02:59:06.513" UserId="14" />
  <row Id="596" PostId="817" Score="2" Text="+1 for a very well written question." CreationDate="2010-07-19T03:37:54.690" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="597" PostId="849" Text="Thanks for the exemplified answer, che. But should I take the sync speed into account when shopping around ?" CreationDate="2010-07-19T05:19:58.277" UserId="120" />
  <row Id="598" PostId="849" Text="I sometimes mix flash and daylight, and I can still live with camera that has X-sync at 1/200 sec. I'd think twice about buying something even slower. 1/500 X-sync would be nice, but there are things that matter a lot more to me (such as sensor size, price and weight)." CreationDate="2010-07-19T06:44:30.607" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="599" PostId="837" Text="+1: well written!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T07:10:43.060" UserId="221" />
  <row Id="600" PostId="42" Score="6" Text="P.S: and avoid the &quot;digital&quot; zoom range: it won't change the bokeh behaviour but it will reduce the quality of the captured data." CreationDate="2010-07-19T07:13:44.473" UserId="221" />
  <row Id="601" PostId="214" Score="7" Text="Very true about knowing when to break it.  It's important to try really hard to think of thirds as a tip, and not as a rule.  I see so many people fall into the trap of only shooting this way and limiting their creativity.  There are many fantastic reasons to ignore this &quot;rule&quot;, and finding out about those exceptions is all part of the fun. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-19T07:33:59.197" UserId="126" />
  <row Id="602" PostId="757" Score="5" Text="4. No flash :) :)" CreationDate="2010-07-19T07:35:01.333" UserId="126" />
  <row Id="603" PostId="823" Text="it's always nice when someone includes the reference. thanks.  +1" CreationDate="2010-07-19T09:07:38.863" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="604" PostId="822" Score="1" Text="@Marc - I am just wondering if Matt Kloskowski is ok with coping the image from his blog. I think it is ok as you added  the source and he is pretty generous with sharing his stuff (presets, tutorials etc), but I think it would be worth asking Matt what is acceptable as I am pretty sure his work will be used on this site quite a few times. Perhaps it is something to be discussed on meta." CreationDate="2010-07-19T09:43:01.420" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="605" PostId="690" Text="Sorry, yeah both in the UK.  &#xA;For the rugby match we were right on the touchline, and the 70 was too close. However, the majority of the play was on the far side (as is always the way). &#xA;I don't think there is a single perfect lens for this.  I could have done with two bodies, one with a 18-55 for when the play was close, and one with soemthing like a 200-400 for when the play was at the other side of the pitch" CreationDate="2010-07-19T11:01:46.467" UserId="186" />
  <row Id="606" PostId="765" Text="But I'm not confused. If you feel that a flash and a reflector are two light sources, what about a light tent? Even so, you can take interesting shots with a single bare bulb in a studio. There's no evidence that you need at least two light sources in a studio environment." CreationDate="2010-07-19T11:15:28.673" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="607" PostId="395" Score="2" Text="Strobist is simply indispensable. Make sure you check out the archives!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T11:19:33.520" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="608" PostId="862" Text="Actually, it looks as though Velbon have a whole bunch of tripods that might do the trick - thanks for the pointer!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T13:42:07.447" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="609" PostId="846" Text="Shooting raw means that you are going to get the direct capture data from the sensor, which includes the native aspect ratio for your camera (in your case 4:3). The cropping that you choose is not actually done until you process the raw image." CreationDate="2010-07-19T15:10:22.990" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="610" PostId="856" Text="Here is an example of mine on how a watermark can be tasteful. As to the question of whether or not it helps, I agree with Reid.&#xA;http://cgm.technion.ac.il/Computer-Graphics-Multimedia/Undergraduate-Projects/archive/2006/Poisson_Image/MVP_Site/pie_sample2.html" CreationDate="2010-07-19T15:38:30.637" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="611" PostId="666" Text="That's what I was thinking of - thanks. I guess I need a coupling ring that matches my inner camera diameter on one side, and that matches my lens outer diameter for the other?" CreationDate="2010-07-19T15:39:52.040" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="612" PostId="856" Score="7" Text="Also, don't forget to add copyright info to the EXIF." CreationDate="2010-07-19T15:40:14.927" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="613" PostId="846" Score="1" Text="YES! +1&#xA;Always be greedy for as much data as you can get.  ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-19T15:49:24.693" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="614" PostId="775" Score="1" Text="An even better suggestion I picked up from Ken Rockwell for Nikon cameras is to use the camera's well hidden option to add some custom metadata with your name. He suggests this for proving that a stolen camera is yours, especially in some random 3rd world country. See http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d5000/users-guide/menus-setup.htm#secret for how to do this on a D5000." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:09:17.570" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="615" PostId="462" Text="Never had a chance, Mom and pups moved out :)  Now my dog can finally do her thing in peace." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:13:35.633" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="616" PostId="134" Text="I think you should rephrase the question to make it less subjective. I'd ask what features you should look for in a D-SLR, for example." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:15:07.257" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="617" PostId="666" Score="1" Text="Nope, because the mounting bayonet of a camera body is not the same as the threaded lens end of a typical lens.  If you want to go body directly to a reverse lens, see Marc's answer.  If you want to go body to regular lens to a reversed lens, then you want my answer." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:15:13.450" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="618" PostId="859" Text="Can you explain the three numbers?" CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:26:25.263" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="619" PostId="803" Score="1" Text="Cropped image should be labeled &quot;camera sensor&quot; or &quot;film&quot; and you'd be dead on." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:26:48.587" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="620" PostId="859" Text="@Reid: I have a kit with three extension tubes, one 36 mm one 20 mm and one 12 mm." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:44:12.263" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="621" PostId="755" Score="1" Text="You'll need a vacuum for all the pet hair." CreationDate="2010-07-19T16:54:55.353" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="622" PostId="765" Text="I agree with Dave - plenty of famous and not-so-famous-but-amazing-nonetheless shots are taken with an on axis ring flash - and thats all.  One light source for the entire effect.  Silhouettes can also be done with one light.  With a well placed window (1 light source) and a secondary flash for fill (2 light sources) you can achieve some nice shots, with budget for only one piece of equipment." CreationDate="2010-07-19T17:01:46.623" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="623" PostId="859" Text="Oh, OK. I thought that you were presenting a computed answer (i.e., 68mm was theoretically significant somehow), but instead you're relating a personal experience. Thanks for the clarification." CreationDate="2010-07-19T17:01:47.293" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="624" PostId="270" Text="+1 for the 18-200, it is a great lens!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T17:20:26.060" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="625" PostId="765" Score="1" Text="&quot;single light source pictures are some of the most complicated shots to get right&quot; http://www.brighthub.com/multimedia/photography/articles/16922.aspx &quot;A portrait lighting system usually includes at least two light sources&quot; http://www.studiolighting.net/portrait-lighting-styles/" CreationDate="2010-07-19T17:40:11.017" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="626" PostId="846" Text="Great info... thanks very much!" CreationDate="2010-07-19T17:44:54.237" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="627" PostId="425" Score="2" Text="People should be aware that Ken Rockwell is frequently insane. But I enjoy reading his stuff, if only to see what the latest absurdity is." CreationDate="2010-07-19T18:23:08.073" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="628" PostId="233" Text="Every answer here is good, but I'm going to accept this as &quot;the answer&quot; it's the most popular." CreationDate="2010-07-19T18:41:02.330" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="629" PostId="495" Text="I don't think this is a duplicate. The duplicate cited is asking for stitching tools. This question is asking additionaly for tips on taking the actual photos. Both of the answers demonstrate new information that none of the answers to the other question don't provide, and would not be appropriate if merged. Voting to re-open. (I accept maybe this question could do with some editing to word it more appropriately though) @Rowland @adrianbanks @gabr @Marc @lpfavreau." CreationDate="2010-07-19T18:46:24.237" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="630" PostId="755" Text="I got a roomba for that:)" CreationDate="2010-07-19T19:06:49.217" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="631" PostId="105" Text="+1 for clear, complete, beginner-appropriate answer" CreationDate="2010-07-19T19:54:29.787" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="632" PostId="822" Text="@kristof: Good point! I sent Matt a message about this just now." CreationDate="2010-07-19T20:05:02.213" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="634" PostId="822" Text="See meta: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/100/is-is-acceptable-to-deep-link-to-external-sites-to-support-an-answer" CreationDate="2010-07-19T20:20:31.783" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="635" PostId="485" Text="+1: very good point about the spot metering. You only care about the moon not the rest of the night sky." CreationDate="2010-07-19T20:21:52.203" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="636" PostId="805" Score="3" Text="I wouldn't describe the 5D as non-professional - I know of professionals that swear by it." CreationDate="2010-07-19T20:38:13.880" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="637" PostId="426" Text="Yeah, they did improve things in the final release, including per-lens distortion correction. I haven't noticed all that much changing with WB or color since the last beta, but maybe you used an earlier one?" CreationDate="2010-07-19T20:45:49.900" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="641" PostId="504" Text="The OP asked about color, not noise reduction. Can you edit your answer to address that?" CreationDate="2010-07-19T21:20:35.227" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="642" PostId="864" Score="8" Text="+1 for mentioning awfulness. Personally I prefer my pictures without the self-abuse. License fees can always be negotiated later." CreationDate="2010-07-19T21:31:52.270" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="643" PostId="879" Text="Not sure about the accuracy of this statement: `&quot;Macro&quot; lenses for SLRs are bigger and slower than the corresponding non-macro lenses, too.&quot;` I have the Canon 100mm Macro lens, and it is a fast f/2.8 lens, which is faster than most of my other professional grade lenses (i.e. 100-400 f/4, 24-105 f/4, etc.) Professional SLR macro lenses tend to be fairly fast, not slow, as the larger max apertures offers more control over DOF...a very important aspect of macro and close-up photography." CreationDate="2010-07-19T21:44:12.683" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="645" PostId="631" Text="@che: thanks, i was just wondering exactly that..." CreationDate="2010-07-19T21:54:18.320" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="649" PostId="805" Score="5" Text="I think you're assuming that non-professional is a slam against the cameras--it's not meant to be. It's meant to indicate that the Canon bodies designed and marketed to proffesionals are the 1D and 1Ds. Can you use any other body professional? Absolutely. Can you produce amazing results with any other body? Absolutely. It's like with power tools. You can use tools that are for the weekend warrior to accomplish a lot, and get professional results, but there is an inherent difference between a Dewalt Saw, and a Festool saw. Both cut. One is just designed for professional use, the other is not." CreationDate="2010-07-19T22:55:42.727" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="653" PostId="365" Text="Cool. I'll have to try this." CreationDate="2010-07-20T00:08:19.047" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="655" PostId="893" Text="I think this is the real last stand of film... if you are going to do advertising photography, things that might get blown up to the size of a billboard or a buildings wall then film is still where it's at." CreationDate="2010-07-20T02:47:59.157" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="656" PostId="729" Text="Thanks. Can you add in your answer what caveats I should be aware of when looking for a second hand scanner? That would make it a perfect answer for me. " CreationDate="2010-07-20T06:24:40.467" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="657" PostId="893" Text="@beggs: I agree. I'm a fairly new nature/landscape photographer, and I started out in digital. I've read enough books and seen enough large-format prints lately to seriously consider getting a large format film camera, though. It really is an amazing format, and when it finally hits digital, it will be a whole new era. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T06:38:17.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="658" PostId="886" Text="Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/484/film-versus-digital" CreationDate="2010-07-20T06:52:00.163" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="659" PostId="870" Text="That's a really useful link; thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:07:24.663" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="660" PostId="578" Score="1" Text="A lot of my film cameras (all but one) **rely** on motorised wind on though." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:08:22.103" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="661" PostId="890" Text="The Canon incompatibilities occur only because Canon 2x Extender has some protruding optical elements. This problem does not exist with off-brand TC's, which have all optics inside." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:31:38.053" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="662" PostId="893" Score="6" Text="@beggs: You don't really need 300dpi on billboards, so even photos from a modest DSLR would look quite fine." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:37:23.813" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="663" PostId="31" Text="What sort of weight would the tripod need to carry on it? Does the 500g target include the head?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:37:57.913" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="664" PostId="473" Text="+2 for the bullet." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:42:46.530" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="665" PostId="893" Text="@che, I don't know about the resolution on all billboards but the building high fashion ads in places like NYC and Paris and the block long ads on the boulevards of Moscow and Madrid are not shot on digital.  Unless it is the afore mentioned hasselblads. Even if it's just a doomed mental block medium- and large-format still dominate advertising." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:48:11.273" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="666" PostId="896" Text="Thankfully, it also has hooks for weights, which are rather easy to find wherever you are." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:48:32.630" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="667" PostId="31" Score="1" Text="I (personally) don't see the need to spend cash on carbon fiber tripods. My manfrotto is just about 1kg with ball head, but I very seldom use it. What I *do* recommend is carrying empty lens pouches to fill and use for weights if you do get a carbon fiber tripod and shoot anywhere windy." CreationDate="2010-07-20T08:51:07.867" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="668" PostId="655" Score="1" Text="All situations! Or none. As with all filters.  What were they designed for and how do people actually use them could be two completely different questions.  " CreationDate="2010-07-20T09:06:56.627" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="669" PostId="899" Text="Yea, I've done this.  Looking to se if there is a more &quot;manufactured&quot; and less &quot;D.I.Y&quot; solution." CreationDate="2010-07-20T09:10:14.200" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="670" PostId="787" Text="I like your argument. But what do you think about the &quot;all formats become obsolete&quot;? I'm not sure it's an argument for or against either DNG or any proprietary format.  I can still get my grandfathers WWII era film negatives developed at a cost, but I the digital world seems to move faster with little regard to backward compatibility... How much pain is it to open wordperfect documents or lotus 123 spreadsheets.  Will RAW files be as hard to read in 20 years?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T09:21:01.117" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="671" PostId="899" Score="6" Text="As far as I can see, all the &quot;manufactured&quot; solutions amount to having somebody _else_ cut a hole in a piece of paper (or, more likely, in a plastic lens cap). The lensbaby &quot;creative apertures kit&quot; is pretty much exactly that, by the look of it." CreationDate="2010-07-20T09:24:15.033" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="672" PostId="837" Text="Indeed! Accepted" CreationDate="2010-07-20T09:42:58.780" UserId="120" />
  <row Id="673" PostId="787" Text="I don't know how much pain it is to open WordPerfect documents or Lotus 123 spreadsheets. Even though I can't buy WordPerfect anymore (not the original DOS version, anyway) I can still open them fine in MS Word 2007. Will RAW files be hard to read in 20 years? Who knows? I can still open 20 year old GIF and PCX files. Besides, I don't know if you can still get your grandfathers era film negatives developed. Some film processes are no longer available, because of environmental issues with the chemicals, or simply because they are no longer commercially viable." CreationDate="2010-07-20T11:14:53.953" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="674" PostId="764" Score="1" Text="DNG files can do additional lossless compression, which would take a (small, but) considerable amount of time to do in-camera, giving that camera an unfavorable disadvantage against competitors in terms of speed versus the amount of space saved." CreationDate="2010-07-20T11:17:58.020" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="675" PostId="8" Score="6" Text="Since this is semi-subjective and there is no one *best* answer, should it not be converted to a Community Wiki?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T11:35:45.573" UserId="172" />
  <row Id="676" PostId="116" Text="I'm curious about MD5 hashes - I know very little about them but think I could benefit from them.  @Suspi - Can you provide any further detail or links on starting to use them with photos?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T11:36:41.983" UserId="172" />
  <row Id="677" PostId="96" Score="1" Text="But the answer will change over time and from one place to the next. If you could define your requirements more precisely, and ask for what features you need to be looking for instead of which product, then this will be a really useful question for people to see in the future." CreationDate="2010-07-20T11:50:56.263" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="678" PostId="850" Score="6" Text="As innovations are made into image stabilisation, there is the possibility of including it in newer lenses, which can be frustrating to photographers, who not only have to get new camera bodies, but also upgrade lenses which would otherwise last for many years :-)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T12:10:48.127" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="679" PostId="893" Text="@beggs: True, those probably not. I was trinking more like 10x3 meter billboards that you can see around highways." CreationDate="2010-07-20T12:21:07.077" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="680" PostId="909" Text="In camera's custom functions I've only found setting to enable/disable AF-assist beam, not having *only* the AF-assist :/" CreationDate="2010-07-20T12:26:44.350" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="681" PostId="165" Text="very good points!  thanks everyone" CreationDate="2010-07-20T12:56:38.970" UserId="83" />
  <row Id="682" PostId="894" Score="1" Text="Great answer.  I totally forgot about infrared." CreationDate="2010-07-20T13:05:57.733" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="683" PostId="886" Score="4" Text="I don't see this question as a duplicate.  The prior question is a quality question, while this one is about types of photography.  I think the answers to this question reflect the differences pretty well." CreationDate="2010-07-20T13:09:14.217" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="684" PostId="803" Score="3" Text="Is it just me that wishes they'd give us round sensors and let us do the cropping? All that lost image data. :(" CreationDate="2010-07-20T13:20:30.683" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="685" PostId="487" Score="4" Text="It's subjective. I think you would have had a lot more success if you'd asked for features that you should look for in a camera. Also, any answers given may not be correct in the future, or in different parts of the world." CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:03:30.313" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="686" PostId="570" Text="Re-tagged to remove `[nimh]` tag - it's too specific and tags should relate to the question, not the answer." CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:10:39.767" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="687" PostId="910" Text="Testing focus with a ruler is prone to error because you can't guarantee what part of the scene the autofocus sensor is triggering on. To avoid this, use one of the focus charts suggested by other answers." CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:11:53.383" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="688" PostId="896" Text="So the quoted weight for the GT0541 includes only the legs and not the head? I'm trying for 500g for the whole package. I'll clarify the question." CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:14:20.803" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="689" PostId="918" Text="I use a Canon 450D with a 1.6 conversion factor. 50mm * 1.6 = 80mm" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:32:23.333" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="690" PostId="902" Text="to be more precise, the (excellent) explanation is here in the page : http://focustestchart.com/chart.html#BackFocus" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:34:33.610" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="691" PostId="916" Text="By all means accept my answer if you want, but if you leave it a bit you may find you get more, better answers to choose from. Particuarly when more people your side of the atlantic get on the site." CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:43:02.030" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="692" PostId="917" Score="3" Text="+1 For most subjects, spot on. But distortions with wide lenses work remarkably well for pet portraits." CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:48:33.030" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="693" PostId="29" Score="2" Text="Yes. Too bad it doesn't have the &quot;faces&quot; feature, like iPhoto, Aperture or even Picassa :-( (I'm a Lightroom user)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:53:38.133" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="694" PostId="68" Text="Lightroom doesn't have the &quot;Faces&quot; feature" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:54:02.703" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="695" PostId="899" Text="Well, *technically* the Lensbaby ones are metal, but that's just because the tool to remove them from the system is a magnet. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:55:02.420" UserId="108" />
  <row Id="696" PostId="870" Text="Great little article you linked to - thank you :)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:57:01.153" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="697" PostId="870" Score="1" Text="Nick does write some very good articles, although obviously he doesn't have the publicity that a lot of more major sites do, but I've included his in this thread: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/384/what-blogs-should-i-be-following-if-i-am-learning-photography/875#875" CreationDate="2010-07-20T14:59:01.007" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="699" PostId="917" Text="I've added some additional text to the first point to acknowledge this (the text in parantheses)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:01:56.540" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="700" PostId="552" Text="this is great !" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:02:17.397" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="701" PostId="536" Text="quote from the question &quot;Online storage is not practical when you are travelling&quot; : I don't think this answer is helpfull " CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:03:02.823" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="702" PostId="924" Text="Netbooks also too heavy?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:21:31.780" UserId="156" />
  <row Id="703" PostId="661" Text="Great pictures : makes it a very explaning answer ! thanks" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:23:23.310" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="704" PostId="383" Score="2" Text="I'd suggest a re-title of &quot;What are the must-have filters for a new photographer&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:24:50.907" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="705" PostId="922" Score="8" Text="+1 for not wanting the &quot;HDR Look&quot; .. I'm so sick of looking at highly detailed urinals and shower stalls on flickr!" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:29:35.967" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="706" PostId="910" Text="@Reid: Good point. I just set the center point to be the only active sensor, so that I know what it is focusing on." CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:33:53.470" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="707" PostId="911" Text="Thanks! Does the Mk II variant also work with non-recent models like 550EX or 580EX? I thought that camera-flash control was limited to 580EX II and 430EX II." CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:35:11.037" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="708" PostId="911" Score="1" Text="@che: Yes, I have a 550EX, and it works. Some of the settings only work with newer flashes, but disabling the flash works with older ones also." CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:36:39.727" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="709" PostId="924" Text="@moonshadow : I don't know :-) I'm looking for the simpliest device. With a netbook, I might also need an external card reader, no ?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:39:44.517" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="710" PostId="926" Text="this one is really expensive, but it's a beast. It has a little brother (see http://www.nextodi.co.uk/uk/ND2700.html) : does anyone know it ?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:50:52.287" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="711" PostId="924" Text="@Jean: my Asus Eee has an SD card reader built in, it's very useful to back up and preview photos and was relatively cheap. But it all depends on exactly what you want." CreationDate="2010-07-20T15:57:04.670" UserId="156" />
  <row Id="712" PostId="924" Text="@moonshadow ok thanks" CreationDate="2010-07-20T16:00:34.480" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="713" PostId="910" Text="It's more than that - sensors aren't necessarily active exactly where they show in the viewfinder. So for example you could think you're focusing on the 30mm mark but in fact your sensor found the 34mm mark, which will show up as back focus but in fact isn't. That's the reason good focus charts have a clear, unambiguous thing to focus on." CreationDate="2010-07-20T16:18:04.217" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="714" PostId="869" Text="Selecting this as an answer, but we can do better than this, people." CreationDate="2010-07-20T16:33:06.000" UserId="203" />
  <row Id="715" PostId="922" Score="1" Text="Couldn't agree more with Tim! Technically speaking, the &quot;HDR Look&quot; is just improper tone mapping anyway, and is not actually the correct look for an HDR image. HDR simply gives you a greater bit depth with a broader viable range of contrast, which is exactly what we photographers need. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T16:43:11.730" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="716" PostId="938" Score="2" Text="Wow. It's like $70 (35 gbp) in the states. UK/EU photographers has my respect for getting screwed over in prices. The downside for the f1.8 for portraits is the bokeh is not as nice, due to the 5 element aperture (iirc)." CreationDate="2010-07-20T17:42:31.933" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="717" PostId="910" Text="Reid: That is not a problem, as the area that I am focusing on is a lot larger than the sensor, and it's nearly parallel with the focus plane. I am of course focusing on the box, not the ruler, that's the whole point of having the box there in the first place." CreationDate="2010-07-20T17:43:44.550" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="718" PostId="922" Score="2" Text="Reid: Probably want to throw in cost as well. Good ND filters aren't cheap. And if you have lenses with different filter sizes, you'll need ND's for each." CreationDate="2010-07-20T17:47:56.773" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="719" PostId="919" Score="2" Text="You don't need to use HDR processing. You can create multiple exposed images, and composite them instead. This takes work in PP, but results in a closer true to life image, without having to make too make a correct tonemap." CreationDate="2010-07-20T17:49:29.360" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="720" PostId="922" Text="Thanks @Alan. I'll edit." CreationDate="2010-07-20T17:52:33.753" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="721" PostId="938" Text="@Alan I tend not to use avoid point light sources in the background, so the bokeh issue is *less* noticeable. As always, individual taste comes into it though." CreationDate="2010-07-20T18:04:19.987" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="722" PostId="910" Text="OK, that's fair. I still submit that a good focus chart is better, because it reduces the fiddliness of one's setup and comes with clear directions to follow. For example, if one did a similar setup but the side of the box was visible, that could capture the focus, or if you used a battery (a common focus target) there's no guarantee where on the curved surface the focus hits, or if you're not lined up exactly perpendicular with the box, there's a source of error. Another consideration is that a focus chart will give you numbers for both sides of the frame." CreationDate="2010-07-20T18:07:53.100" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="723" PostId="945" Text="Thank you! I dug all over their site, but had a lot of problems with it for some reason. A lot of their images and flash stuff wouldn't load properly, so I was never able to find that link. Useful information, though, much appreciated. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T18:49:33.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="724" PostId="896" Text="@Reid: Ah, I didn't realize you needed a 500g total package. That might be pretty tough, as the Gitzo tripod above was one of the two lightest tripods with the hight that I needed that I could find. I looked at a variety of other manufacturers. There was one other brand...trackproof or something along those lines, that had a lighter one...but it didn't quite fit my personal needs. I'll see if I can find the details...it might be just barely light enough for you." CreationDate="2010-07-20T18:53:04.053" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="725" PostId="926" Text="That's the one I use... I bought it without the drive, and added a SATA drive of my own. Works fine for me." CreationDate="2010-07-20T18:58:47.537" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="726" PostId="896" Text="@jrista: Thanks! I know it's a tall order. I've asked in several other fora and gotten nowhere, so I really appreciate it." CreationDate="2010-07-20T19:07:56.843" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="727" PostId="913" Score="1" Text="Canon used to make modified version of 20d called 20Da dedicated for astrophotography - it seems strange that they do not follow that with new models http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_20D#EOS_20Da&#xA; " CreationDate="2010-07-20T19:10:28.240" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="728" PostId="922" Text="@Alan - not always.  The arguably best filter manu out there (Lee) makes them in 4x6 size, with a kit that allows you to hook up to multiple lenses with specific couplers for each.  Yes, the kit costs additional money, and the filters themselves aren't cheap.  You can always do what I plan to do and handhold for awhile until you can afford the kit :)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T19:41:45.093" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="729" PostId="657" Text="I thought the only reason we could see anything is because light has bounced off of it." CreationDate="2010-07-20T19:52:13.587" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="730" PostId="950" Text="You may want to reword that slightly, as it can't show the JPEG data where is no JPEG (but it may show the data if as processed using the shot settings, such as white balance, which can have an effect on the histogram)" CreationDate="2010-07-20T19:59:24.833" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="731" PostId="950" Score="3" Text="I believe many cameras compute a JPEG even if it's not saved (e.g., raw formats often include a small JPEG preview), but that's a good point. I'll edit." CreationDate="2010-07-20T20:13:48.230" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="732" PostId="541" Text="How do you copy the file onto two cards? With a netbook?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T20:18:52.803" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="733" PostId="935" Text="Isn't the whole point of HDR in correcting blown out hightlights by merging the image with another exposure that has captures highligt details?" CreationDate="2010-07-20T20:36:14.773" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="734" PostId="657" Text="@reuscam: Yes, but that is diffuse light that bounces around in all directions, what you can filter with a polarizing filter is light that bounces off of a flat surface." CreationDate="2010-07-20T21:17:50.340" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="735" PostId="425" Text="Ken is a bit odd, but for a new person coming into the DSLR world, his guide to the D5000 was really great. He walks through *all* the menus, explains what each setting is for and recommends a value." CreationDate="2010-07-20T21:23:26.273" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="736" PostId="896" Text="@Reid: You're welcome. I've updated my answer with info on TrekPod. It weighs in at 630g with the head...a little over budget, but its the lightest thing I know of." CreationDate="2010-07-20T21:27:37.493" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="737" PostId="935" Text="@che: The point of HDR is to gain increased viable contrast range. If you expose far enough beyond the physical limits of your sensor (you might be able to go a little beyond, but not much), no amount of HDR processing can correct that. I have several very important photos that I accidentally overexposed...not by much, but a little beyond the abilities of my sensor. I've used numerous programs to try and &quot;fix&quot; them, but the most over exposed parts are always visible...there is either some degree of posterization, or they don't look quite right, or something. Now..." CreationDate="2010-07-20T21:55:17.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="738" PostId="935" Text="...when shooting in RAW, you can &quot;overexpose&quot; a photo by quite a bit at times... 2/3 of a stop at least, sometimes up to a stop or a little more, without actually exposing past the physical limits of your sensor. Thats one of the benefits of using RAW. However if you want to get the best results from HDR processing, you should make sure that those &quot;overexposed&quot; highlights (or shadows) are recoverable, and are not physically unrecoverable (blocked or blown.) If you have only gone a little past the physical limits, HDR can still help you recover...but you may be stuck with some artifacts." CreationDate="2010-07-20T21:57:34.280" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="739" PostId="957" Text="When you say you need to get pretty close with a 60mm lens, are you taking into account that it will be on an APS-C body, so it will effectively be a 96mm lens? Or are you talking about a 60mm lens on a full frame? Your answer is slightly confusing ..." CreationDate="2010-07-20T22:25:55.740" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="741" PostId="929" Text="Yeah but can you recommend it? Is it reliable? etc." CreationDate="2010-07-20T23:07:19.180" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="742" PostId="945" Text="yeah... it's not that good, but almost anything can be found with a enough google-fu" CreationDate="2010-07-20T23:10:23.390" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="743" PostId="331" Score="6" Text="This was (likely) said about film. With digital, and especially a camera that can shoot so many frames per second, this probably translates to more like &quot;your first 100,000 photographs are your worst&quot;. I've shot 40,000 in four years so I imagine I am like 40% of the way through the mediocrity stage." CreationDate="2010-07-20T23:15:11.307" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="744" PostId="388" Text="Perhaps change the title to something like &quot;Experience selling on Getty images&quot;. I originally thought this was from a buyer perspective." CreationDate="2010-07-20T23:18:29.617" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="745" PostId="116" Text="MD5 hashes are typically used to check for the integrity of a file.  When given a file, it will generate a string that is (more or less) unique to that file.  The chances of two similar files generating the same exact code is nigh impossible.&#xA;&#xA;Due to this property, I decided to use MD5 hashes to separate out files that contains the same EXIF data but are actually different.  There are a number of ways you can do this.  If you have Linux, the md5sum program generates a hash.  For Windows, I use BatchRename that has a MD5 generator.&#xA;&#xA;http://www.foryoursoft.com/batchrename/index.htm" CreationDate="2010-07-20T23:34:44.723" UserId="84" />
  <row Id="746" PostId="68" Score="2" Text="@jean-phillipe- true, but I think the guideline holds: if you photograph people much, I'd suggest you tag them.  I use faces, but you can do the same thing in Lightroom or other programs by just using a standard tag for each person you photograph regularly." CreationDate="2010-07-21T00:37:56.003" UserId="9" />
  <row Id="747" PostId="383" Text="@Edd..updated. thanks." CreationDate="2010-07-21T02:05:34.723" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="748" PostId="569" Score="10" Text="It should be noted that on most new Canon lenses, the &quot;weather sealing&quot; feature is only fully realized when a filter is screwed on. This is usually noted in the Canon details about the lens. I recently purchased the EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L USM II, and it is only fully weather sealed when a filter is applied...at the least a UVP, but a polarizer or any other filter will also suffice." CreationDate="2010-07-21T02:10:55.087" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="749" PostId="31" Text="@Tim: Great note about using filled lens pouches for added weight. I've had a couple instances with my carbon-fiber Gitzo where I wished it had some extra weight, but I didn't have anything to hook to it. I've got a couple lens pouches that I don't use...they'll become a regular inhabitant of my backpack now. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-21T02:15:47.727" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="751" PostId="963" Text="It's a quicktime vid, so I'll need to use my mac to view it." CreationDate="2010-07-21T05:10:12.670" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="752" PostId="901" Text="This is exactly what I was looking for.  Now I wonder if it's worth the $25 to have someone else cut the holes." CreationDate="2010-07-21T05:10:53.433" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="753" PostId="964" Score="1" Text="Also &quot;Gear Head&quot; :D" CreationDate="2010-07-21T05:11:27.630" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="754" PostId="963" Text="@Alan, you probably already know this, but there is software to view it on Windows and Linux as well. (I don't own a Mac myself.)" CreationDate="2010-07-21T05:17:16.793" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="756" PostId="954" Text="I think you mean 'stick CTO gel on flash'." CreationDate="2010-07-21T06:32:22.830" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="757" PostId="913" Text="The 20Da was made for a niche market. It is probably not worth it for Canon to develop newer models. In addition the astrophotography scene is not interested in more pixels so the 8.2 MP sensor is sufficient." CreationDate="2010-07-21T07:06:32.993" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="758" PostId="541" Text="For example. If you're travelling computer-free than this can be a problem. How do you send your file over internet? In a iCafe? Then maybe you can copy your cards there too." CreationDate="2010-07-21T07:18:07.753" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="759" PostId="729" Text="Thank you for the detailed answered. Very helpful." CreationDate="2010-07-21T08:05:56.983" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="760" PostId="96" Text="Well, that's true enough. But, my question was answered and it is not fair to change it now. Maybe I'll ask another more general question later when I devise one that will endure and be good." CreationDate="2010-07-21T08:07:25.577" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="761" PostId="969" Score="1" Text="&quot;Understanding exposure&quot; is a very valuable book ! I totally aggre with @Matt" CreationDate="2010-07-21T10:26:07.237" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="762" PostId="954" Text="Fixed, thanks for pointing that out." CreationDate="2010-07-21T11:04:23.617" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="763" PostId="803" Text="@Peter Boughton: I agree." CreationDate="2010-07-21T12:18:55.307" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="764" PostId="301" Score="1" Text="+1 for point 4. I always tried holding my breath and got poor shots. I don't exactly know why, though." CreationDate="2010-07-21T12:21:37.783" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="765" PostId="301" Score="2" Text="When you hold your breath you tend to shake.  It's more obvious when looking at the site of a rifle on a target, but holding a camera steady is very similar, so slowly breathing out is something I brought with me from target shooting." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:04:22.063" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="766" PostId="31" Score="1" Text="@jrista - Yes, you can usually add 1 - 2kg of weight depending on what you find laying around. Even my alloy manfrotto needs a little help being stable, especially when in &quot;contortionist&quot; mode. Its a problem that is not at all exclusive to carbon fiber tripods." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:18:46.753" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="767" PostId="954" Text="The Rosco link shows Full CTO as being 3200K, and 3/4 CTO as 3500K, might want to clarify your explanation." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:29:56.227" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="768" PostId="936" Text="Its not really that slow in most situations (I shoot on manual most of the time). Its easy to go down or up a full stop while keeping something in focus provided the change is not too drastic." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:41:32.567" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="769" PostId="922" Score="1" Text="@jrista - I'm not saying its _never_ appropriate to abuse tone mapping, I've seen some really creative uses of it particularly in industrial decay. I just wonder why everyone's first HDR is a toilet. Its like toilets are the &quot;Hello, World!&quot; of HDR." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:47:22.240" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="770" PostId="940" Text="Well, spot metering in general affords this .. that's not really exclusive to shooting in manual." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:49:11.750" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="771" PostId="837" Text="And another reason why the Nikon D-40 is still wildly popular. I keep wondering why Nikon did away with that .. perhaps just too much of an unappreciated feature for the intended users of that camera." CreationDate="2010-07-21T13:50:58.067" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="772" PostId="981" Text="I like this idea a lot! I think I'm going to cobble some code together tonight and have a play." CreationDate="2010-07-21T14:08:42.267" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="773" PostId="983" Score="3" Text="Nice twist, that would certainly force you to study the subject before shooting." CreationDate="2010-07-21T14:26:14.533" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="774" PostId="954" Text="Tungsten indeed seems to be 3200K; fixed. You're right about 3/4 CTO, but I had quater CTO in mind, which really goes to 4600K, at least per Rosco. Anyway, the point is that there is really wide range of color correction gels available for tuning the light. Full gel set for small flashes can be bought for around $10. (Google for &quot;strobist gel collection&quot;.)" CreationDate="2010-07-21T14:48:25.540" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="775" PostId="940" Score="3" Text="@Tim, the point is that with manual you can meter once and then just shoot, with known consistent results. While you could get the same results with spot metering before each frame, it would be tedious and error-prone. For consistency between frames, manual (or some kind of exposure lock) really is best." CreationDate="2010-07-21T15:00:58.037" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="776" PostId="983" Score="3" Text="The stress would kill me! How late in the day should I wait before I risk using up my allowance? How many days will I last before I crack and take a *second* photo? Aaargh! :-)" CreationDate="2010-07-21T15:12:03.410" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="777" PostId="922" Text="@Tim: I am all for creative uses of any tool, as long as the end result is interesting and contains unique vision. But all the canned &quot;HDR&quot; images that simply look the way they do because of improper tone mapping (usually in the shadows)...they almost give HDR a bad name." CreationDate="2010-07-21T15:45:34.830" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="778" PostId="424" Score="3" Text="... and then go back and figure out how you would have gotten the same effect in-camera! I've recently discovered manual exposure correction and reduced the amount of post-processing needed significantly." CreationDate="2010-07-21T15:53:22.643" UserId="221" />
  <row Id="779" PostId="983" Score="8" Text="@Matt: You could start with something simpler, like not taking photos more often than you take your medication... ;D" CreationDate="2010-07-21T16:37:47.677" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="780" PostId="981" Text="I did something similar 8 years ago, but just stop randomly when I came to think of it instead of having a set route. &lt;blatant self promotion&gt; http://www.guffa.com/Photo_album.asp?album=10&amp;date=* (Sorry that it's in swedish, but you can look at the pictures...) &lt;/blatant self promotion&gt;" CreationDate="2010-07-21T16:43:33.660" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="781" PostId="985" Score="3" Text="I like that shot." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:04:50.790" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="782" PostId="979" Text="Isnt that what he said hes in the middle of in his OP?" CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:05:11.417" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="783" PostId="62" Text="Thanks for the feedback. I get the impression this is not something not to be rushed into, so I will sit on it for now, and investigate further." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:07:14.283" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="784" PostId="120" Text="Just curious, had to ask!" CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:08:35.263" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="785" PostId="13" Text="It is sounding like LightRoom is a nice workflow-oriented package, so I think I shall trial it and see what I think!" CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:10:09.347" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="786" PostId="896" Text="Is it possible/kosher for you to split your answer? The two halves seem fairly distinct to me." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:12:46.550" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="787" PostId="775" Text="@Josh Goldshlag That's a neat feature, I didn't know cameras could do that. I'll have to see if mine has such capability." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:14:16.597" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="788" PostId="896" Text="Well, generally, I don't think the stackexchange system likes multiple answers from a single user. The bottom half may be most relevant to you, but for others looking for more of a full tripod, I think the upper half is still useful." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:36:24.610" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="789" PostId="988" Text="Nice idea though." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:37:09.287" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="790" PostId="985" Text="Thanks @reuscam :)" CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:38:15.013" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="791" PostId="341" Score="2" Text="On the other hand, it's good to be able to look at the two (or more) photos, and choose the one you want to show to people. Nothing is worse that looking at 100+ vacation photos." CreationDate="2010-07-21T17:50:56.020" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="792" PostId="979" Score="2" Text="Yes it is, and I'm the OPer, I just wanted to include it in the list." CreationDate="2010-07-21T18:09:04.500" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="793" PostId="960" Text="The original questioner asked for a 100% offline solution, so Live Sync is probably out." CreationDate="2010-07-21T18:17:36.917" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="794" PostId="960" Score="1" Text="@Scott: Sure, however a NetBook with a few hundred gigs of drive space would suffice for a roaming backup device, plus it could offer some basic organization and preview capabilities. If you encounter a network connection, live sync could give you even more redundancy." CreationDate="2010-07-21T19:05:03.093" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="795" PostId="996" Score="1" Text="Didn't I say that about 2 hours ago? ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-21T19:34:37.953" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="796" PostId="535" Score="3" Text="One of the things that works for me in some situations (and also doesn't work in many others) is using a polarizer. The general problem is too bright sky and polarizer can be used to bring down the luminance values in the sky. The overall contrast of the scene will thus be lower and the ground will get more exposure. It works better with long lenses (I use it with 70-200 mostly as I hate the non-even sky produced by using polarizer on the wide-angle)." CreationDate="2010-07-21T19:57:22.270" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="797" PostId="708" Text="Guillermo also provides the RAW files for many camera types that can be used to cancel out the white balance." CreationDate="2010-07-21T20:04:25.713" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="798" PostId="718" Text="I find Pclix (http://www.pclix.com/pages/pclix_main.html) an interesting option, but have never used it myself. It's also compatible with many camera types." CreationDate="2010-07-21T20:09:50.367" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="799" PostId="971" Text="Very pertinent point about checking the monitor etc. It's something that we may take for granted, but I'm yet to come across a display that isn't noticeably wrong when measured with a colorimeter." CreationDate="2010-07-21T20:21:55.267" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="800" PostId="116" Text="I assume your MD5 hash is over the entire photo file, including the EXIF information?  If so, changing any part of the EXIF information would change the MD5 hash.  I've considered doing the same thing in a PERL script, but taking the hash of a stripped version of the file to avoid this problem." CreationDate="2010-07-21T23:15:13.147" UserId="238" />
  <row Id="801" PostId="1003" Text="The face tagging is somewhat like the people tags on FaceBook.  The  software identifies what it thinks are faces in a picture, and you can teach it to recognize individual faces (e.g. Joe, Susan) in different pictures.  With a fairly large collection of pictures (I have 51GB), it takes several minutes to add a new set of pictures.  " CreationDate="2010-07-21T23:20:14.120" UserId="238" />
  <row Id="802" PostId="990" Score="1" Text="I shoot exactly the same way.  Aperture Priority for most shots with exceptions for panned shots (most of the time I use Shutter Priority, but if it's a one-off I'll stay on Aperture Priority and just use a smaller aperture to get the shutter speed I want) and Manual for insect macros with flash or for scenes where the lighting is changing or with subjects of varying color under constant lighting where the exposure might meter differently from one shot to the next." CreationDate="2010-07-21T23:55:56.850" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="803" PostId="471" Score="1" Text="There's a lot of different software. Worth making this community wiki?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T00:06:52.600" UserId="156" />
  <row Id="804" PostId="987" Text="As a poll, this should have been made community wiki. I converted this question." CreationDate="2010-07-22T01:12:26.383" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="805" PostId="1000" Score="2" Text="+1 for working with something you hate, great concept!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T02:27:11.340" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="806" PostId="699" Score="2" Text="What about post processing?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T02:47:31.087" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="807" PostId="1011" Score="2" Text="+1. This question is begging for some side-by-side comparisons... I'd love to see them. I searched a bit but came up short." CreationDate="2010-07-22T02:56:28.070" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="808" PostId="1013" Score="1" Text="Can the film grain be called noise at all?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T03:06:18.717" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="809" PostId="92" Score="7" Text="Good UV filter comparison can be found here: http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html." CreationDate="2010-07-22T03:23:31.957" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="810" PostId="891" Score="3" Text="Would you like to elaborate on why it is more straight-forward with film? It strikes me that post-processing is the perfect time to do this - with its ability to adjust the relative positions, brightness, etc." CreationDate="2010-07-22T03:32:55.643" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="811" PostId="1013" Text="It's not usually called noise, but it's a similar process since it depends on random processes. You can even see noise in your eyeballs: look at a flat white surface, and you can see fuzz swimming around. Same idea - random fluctuations in some part of the process lead to high-frequency variations in the image." CreationDate="2010-07-22T03:45:12.630" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="812" PostId="375" Score="1" Text="You're right che, the flash bracket I'm using to mount my flash and umbrella to my light stand won't let me aim the flash to the axis, it will aim it a bit higher." CreationDate="2010-07-22T04:23:54.990" UserId="132" />
  <row Id="813" PostId="891" Text="With film, you just expose using 1/2 EV, and expose the 2nd shot with 1/2 EV without advancing the film to the next frame. " CreationDate="2010-07-22T05:01:47.503" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="814" PostId="1016" Score="1" Text="I'd suggest slides are easier to browse than negative film. I tend to get my slides printed &amp; processed (&amp; scanned) by the lab I use as a default setting, so you can still idly scan through prints." CreationDate="2010-07-22T07:48:27.657" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="815" PostId="569" Text="@jrista, I didn't know that - it's a top tip!  ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T09:31:01.073" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="816" PostId="1017" Text="Excellent question. I've always wondered!  Thanks for asking :)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T09:34:18.500" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="817" PostId="920" Text="The shutter noise of the DSLR (and SLRs for that matter) is what I love about them and what made me use one in the first place :)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T10:14:39.263" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="818" PostId="133" Text="A nobel idea, but until the camera manufacturers pick it up (and they won't, it's a matter of intellectual property) it's not very realistic." CreationDate="2010-07-22T11:10:48.480" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="819" PostId="1004" Text="Your numbers aren't even close to the results I'm seeing.  Will a 28.8MP(!) image really be required for a 16x20?  I've printed them from as low as 5MP." CreationDate="2010-07-22T11:56:32.707" />
  <row Id="820" PostId="897" Score="1" Text="Why do you need the AF bean to come on if you're manually focussing?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T12:31:58.780" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="821" PostId="1016" Score="2" Text="I think you are comparing different things (film and prints). Slides are far easier to &quot;read&quot; on a light table than negatives." CreationDate="2010-07-22T12:59:46.963" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="822" PostId="1030" Score="1" Text="I should add that size of light source is not the only factor in light softness. It depends on both the size of source and distance from subject ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T13:03:13.960" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="823" PostId="1020" Text="I would argue against the claim that negative film is darker. It's darker in the key areas, which are usually midtones to highlights and you need a scanner with good Dmax to get details from those areas. This will also cause more noise in those areas in contrary to the slides. In terms of density, slides probably win." CreationDate="2010-07-22T13:04:23.240" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="824" PostId="1012" Text="I don't think the noise patterns are problem for modern digital cameras." CreationDate="2010-07-22T13:12:01.413" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="825" PostId="1013" Score="1" Text="Interesting example and it gives some idea of the differences, but as the film has been digitized here already, you can't really say which pattern is caused by film grain and which by scanner noise. I'd bet some of the chroma noise in deep shadows is caused by digitization." CreationDate="2010-07-22T13:16:49.873" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="826" PostId="1019" Text="It's also incredibly damn slow. Processing a raw file takes orders of magnitude longer than Bibble (seriously), and when I start it up to deal with one photo, it takes it upon itself to churn and churn digging around my entire system indexing other photos. Bah!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T13:30:43.053" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="827" PostId="1013" Text="@Karel: That is an interresting point. The scanning process does of course add a small amount of noise, but I don't think that it's really visible. Noise from the scanner would be pixel sized like in the right image, but you can clearly see the larger grains from the film. Both are 1:1 crops of the images." CreationDate="2010-07-22T13:52:36.637" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="828" PostId="169" Score="2" Text="No. The DoF would be different, as that is based on *actual* focal length. The crop factor does just crop the image, so you get &quot;the same amount of stuff in the picture&quot; as if you'd used the longer lens, but it still has the perspective of the lens it was actually taken with." CreationDate="2010-07-22T14:00:25.870" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="829" PostId="1021" Text="I thought lower ISO film has more grain?!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:03:13.410" UserId="62" />
  <row Id="830" PostId="960" Score="1" Text="This sounds like the best solution to me: I've looked at lots of devices that are essentially self-contained hard drives, but they are all really over-priced when you can get a netbook with 250GB+ of disk space for under 200 quid.  " CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:03:27.747" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="831" PostId="1012" Text="It's definitely a problem on my D90 at higher ISOs; a clear square pattern emerges. It's worse on some images than others obviously." CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:19:58.323" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="832" PostId="1013" Text="Some of the noise on the right looks like JPEG artifacts. Can you swap in a PNG instead to eliminate this possibility?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:22:06.500" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="833" PostId="1012" Text="At low ISO values (less than 400 or so) it's not likely to be an issue on modern digital cameras, but depending on the model it is still quite prevalent, especially if you are maxing out your ISO in low light to get the shot." CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:38:24.930" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="834" PostId="1035" Text="Doesn't that fall into the &quot;technical&quot; aspect?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:54:11.553" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="835" PostId="403" Text="@Reid Preidhorsky As you say, because of the narrower FoV for telephoto lenses, the hood would have to be seriously long before it became necessary to petal-shape it in order to avoid vignetting." CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:55:19.137" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="836" PostId="665" Text="Another advantage when shooting close to a window is that you can press the lens hood up against the glass, and block out any light from the camera side of the window and reduce reflections." CreationDate="2010-07-22T15:57:06.437" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="837" PostId="1013" Text="@Reid: Yes, you are right. I wanted to keep the file size down, but a PNG is probably better after all." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:05:00.473" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="838" PostId="1033" Score="1" Text="This should be community wiki." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:07:03.340" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="839" PostId="1038" Score="6" Text="+1: so many people blast because of digital. Sure digital is free, but time isn't." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:08:13.247" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="840" PostId="665" Score="1" Text="Impressive-looking telephotos are very important in situations where you have to look like serious photographer, for example if you're trying to get past security into press sections on a show or sports event." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:16:33.830" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="841" PostId="1019" Text="@Reid - Picasa is not intended to just process one photo: it is a photo management application and so just using it to process one pic is not going to be an efficient workflow. Once it has found all your pictures it does a great job at photo management (best free option IMO), although I would recommend turning off raw as a recognised type and converting them to JPEG/TIFF/PNG with something else." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:17:07.967" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="842" PostId="1021" Text="@txwikinger lower sensitivity == higher ISO number == more noticeable grain/noise" CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:21:53.250" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="843" PostId="1013" Text="@Guffa Why do you say neither eats detail? It seems to me that both will obscure fine details in the subject." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:22:12.953" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="844" PostId="1037" Text="These are virtues.. not really disciplines" CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:28:37.567" UserId="62" />
  <row Id="845" PostId="14" Text="can you please define &quot;afk&quot;?  it's an acronym i'm not familiar with... " CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:33:14.427" UserId="240" />
  <row Id="846" PostId="1019" Text="I use Picasa when I'm out with my laptop and don't have access to my real software at home. If there were trivial changes in the user experience (e.g., *ask* before starting an extremely time-consuming indexing operation, or, gasp, let me *cancel* it, both standard user interface techniques) it would be perfectly adequate for this role." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:33:31.540" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="847" PostId="1039" Score="3" Text="I would be interested in answers particularly in the case of people who aren't or don't believe they're photogenic." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:35:22.457" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="848" PostId="1013" Score="1" Text="@danio: Yes, both grain and noise will make the details harder to distinguish, but they don't eat details in the manner that noise reduction does. It will remove details along with the noise, but leave the rest of the image mostly unchanged, looking like the details wouldn't even belong there." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:38:32.627" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="849" PostId="1037" Text="Right, which is why I said these are &quot;virtues&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:38:45.497" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="850" PostId="1039" Score="1" Text="I belive those people are a bit different case, but talking to them and focusing their attention on something else than camera might work." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:42:01.577" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="851" PostId="1035" Text="The rule of thirds and the golden ratio is the same thing." CreationDate="2010-07-22T16:44:43.663" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="852" PostId="1048" Text="possible duplicate of [DIY Gray card for exposure/color correction.](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/613/diy-gray-card-for-exposure-color-correction)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T17:46:55.860" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="853" PostId="398" Text="dupe of an above answer." CreationDate="2010-07-22T18:38:38.827" UserId="74" />
  <row Id="854" PostId="1057" Score="5" Text="You probably want to just buy a grey card - they're cheap, under $5." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:00:31.733" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="855" PostId="1057" Score="2" Text="I agree completely - but the OP did ask how to make it work ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:04:23.020" UserId="244" />
  <row Id="856" PostId="170" Score="2" Text="This doesn't make sense...1800x1200 is a shade under 2.2MP, not 22MP" CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:15:07.133" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="857" PostId="116" Text="Not a problem for me since I want to preserve as many unique files as possible when doing a mass merging.  I'll just go through the photos again and compare the difference in EXIF." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:16:45.270" UserId="84" />
  <row Id="858" PostId="504" Text="Thank for pointing me.&#xA;I addressed the colors." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:17:12.230" UserId="114" />
  <row Id="859" PostId="1050" Score="5" Text="For anyone not familiar with this concept (and who missed the question tags), this is called &quot;dynamic range&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:22:32.573" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="861" PostId="487" Score="1" Text="Just because this question may not have a good single answer doesn't make it a bad question.  It was the first question I had as a newbie..." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:29:40.687" UserId="277" />
  <row Id="862" PostId="1061" Score="2" Text="I would be interested in the answers to this as well. I have been researching astrophotography for a while, and one of the key factors is a tracking mount or tracking telescope that can keep the camera pointed at the same stars as the earth moves. Beyond that, I have also not been able to find much information." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:33:33.420" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="863" PostId="924" Text="Could this be a duplicate of an existing post? (http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/533/how-can-i-backup-my-photos-while-travelling/574#574)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:33:38.850" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="864" PostId="1061" Score="2" Text="@jrista I'm in the same boat. It seems like a black art. I've found some stellar photos on the net taken by DSLRs. I'll update the post as I find more information." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:35:44.150" UserId="265" />
  <row Id="865" PostId="1060" Text="Very similar, but not quite a duplicate IMO: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/480/how-to-rate-the-optical-quality-of-a-used-lens" CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:38:01.990" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="866" PostId="926" Text="I wouldn't trust important pictures to only one drive if you don't have enough capacity in your CF cards so you won't have to delete pictures from them. I was recently travelling in Japan and almost lost my pictures and videos due to a hard drive crash. Thus I would recommend that you find a solution where you can backup all the important data on to (at least) two different drives." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:50:50.353" UserId="1519" />
  <row Id="867" PostId="1078" Text="The 50mm f1.4 is an amazing lens, however the 1.6x crop on an APS-C body doesn't help for close-up, although it does assist in not needing to use a flash often." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:54:55.413" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="868" PostId="1078" Text="He states his current 50mm is too telephoto for up-close pics.  1.8 to 1.4 wouldn't be that much of a benefit for his situation." CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:56:01.637" UserId="304" />
  <row Id="870" PostId="1081" Score="4" Text="Personally I wouldn't want to blind the baby with a flash. Rather get some good glass now and save on glasses for the baby. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T19:58:13.253" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="872" PostId="919" Text="Here's one relevant question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/532/what-techniques-do-you-employ-to-control-contrast-in-your-landscape-shots" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:08:50.373" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="873" PostId="1078" Text="Possibly, but then do you really have to get so close?  I find that or my 24-70 to be the best, and I take photos of newborns quite often" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:17:16.000" UserId="294" />
  <row Id="874" PostId="168" Text="I have over 1000 slides I want to digitize someday...the problem with the scanners is that either you pay a couple hundred $ and you have to sit there and feed it 4 or 5 slides at a time, or you pay $1000+ for the automatic scanner, which is just too much for me." CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:18:14.280" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="875" PostId="1004" Text="What numbers are you seeing?&#xA;&#xA;It didn't say required but if you are printing from 5MP camera 16x20 inch print then you are resizing the file and that will always affect the quality  but sometimes that doesn't matter at all.&#xA;&#xA;If the original image file is good (in focus, low noise, etc.) then you should still be able to get a good 16x20 print.&#xA;&#xA;The numbers I am referring to are so you don't need to resize the image file.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:18:22.643" UserId="81" />
  <row Id="876" PostId="926" Text="No, absolutely. I'm backing up the cards, but I don't delete them until I get home. Memory cards are cheap and light; buy lots of them!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:21:29.313" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="877" PostId="1087" Score="1" Text="Do you mean &quot;too narrow&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:26:25.417" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="878" PostId="1078" Score="1" Text="We're answering for the asker, so if he says he doesn't like the 50, it's a poor candidate." CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:27:01.170" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="879" PostId="1081" Score="1" Text="If you use a bounce flash, it might not be a problem. But I'm not a dad, so be aware of my lack of experience with babies. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:40:11.453" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="880" PostId="1093" Text="Is that one of those ebay triggers? Do you have personal experience with it?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:41:01.497" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="881" PostId="1100" Text="Added the tags for you." CreationDate="2010-07-22T20:54:33.587" UserId="125" />
  <row Id="882" PostId="562" Score="3" Text="I use Gimp for post processing and have had images that came out of it published in both a magazine and a couple of books.  I've also done many large prints.  I just do any dramatic (and overall) color and/or brightness corrections in the RAW software that came with my camera, then do the final tweaks and selective adjustments in Gimp.  Works great for me!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:03:35.407" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="883" PostId="1101" Score="1" Text="@matt That's the problem. There is a ton of information on the next. Half of it is over 5 years old. Astrophotography seems to have two aspects: the camera (or stellar CCD) and the telescope. I've got a camera. I'm looking for a guide on choosing the entry level telescope and hooking up my camera to it." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:08:10.527" UserId="265" />
  <row Id="884" PostId="1092" Score="1" Text="but if your sky is over exposed (blown out) than you won't introduce back detail.&#xA;&#xA;So this works only for a little over exposed sky (assuming RAW)." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:09:09.963" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="885" PostId="1106" Score="2" Text="Why the downvote? If you don't explain what it is that you think is wrong, it can't improve the answer." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:09:20.803" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="886" PostId="1105" Score="2" Text="I can second the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 -it's a great lens.  I have the Canon 50mm f/1.8 II as well, though, and I tend to treat them interchangeably.  I usually throw one or the other in my bag.  If you don't mind the build quality of the &quot;nifty fifty&quot; it's just as sharp, not much different as far as the angle of view, and a whole lot less expensive." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:09:58.917" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="887" PostId="1111" Score="1" Text="You'll also have to accept manual focus for the price :)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:19:01.617" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="888" PostId="1115" Text="Thanks for the aperture reminder!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:28:02.353" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="889" PostId="1100" Text="You need 150 rep to create new tags." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:31:18.470" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="890" PostId="922" Score="1" Text="Additional Disadvantages of HDR: (1) You camera needs to support bracketing and preferably bracketing with many frames. (2) You can't do it for moving subjects - if something is moving in the shot, you need to edit it out later." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:32:12.263" UserId="253" />
  <row Id="891" PostId="1112" Score="2" Text="And you get less aliasing and better use of your pixel's doing it optical on-site than digitally post-processing (Resampling to correct perspective will lose data.)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:38:20.627" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="892" PostId="1103" Text="I am actually considering going for the D90 over the D300s because of this. I am not paying nearly $200 to replace my wonderful little $20 IR remote from my D70s!" CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:40:06.727" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="893" PostId="831" Score="1" Text="&quot;My current plan ... remove photos from Camera Roll ...&quot; I was about to suggest that idea. I have a feeling that is how the iPhone and iPhoto were designed to be used together. It may be easier to go with that (work)flow than to swim against it." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:47:14.030" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="894" PostId="1112" Text="@Jared: That's true. My contention is that the effect of that data loss is generally negligible." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:49:35.447" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="895" PostId="922" Text="Thanks @Dimitris. Edited." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:50:26.413" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="896" PostId="1077" Score="2" Text="http://www.google.com/search?q=How+can+I+remove+the+background+of+a+photo+using+GIMP%3F" CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:52:18.973" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="898" PostId="1061" Score="1" Text="@Chuck: Thanks for all the links. I'll check them out. I have some good astrophotography articles bookmarked at home...I'll try to find them and add an answer once I get off work." CreationDate="2010-07-22T21:55:33.777" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="899" PostId="1124" Score="1" Text="Conversation with whoever you're making the photo of is key.  Even if it's corny jokes, once you get a genuine smile, shots worth keeping are usually the result." CreationDate="2010-07-22T22:01:57.923" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="900" PostId="1115" Score="1" Text="You can buy a Nikkor -&gt; Canon lens mount adapter for cheap on eBay. I've tried this with a Nikkor 500 mm mirror telephoto lens and it worked great. " CreationDate="2010-07-22T22:07:10.197" UserId="201" />
  <row Id="901" PostId="1129" Score="1" Text="+1 for Recuva (and it's free, too)" CreationDate="2010-07-22T22:18:15.710" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="903" PostId="1125" Text="I ought to have mentioned that I did have her push the write protect switch and that she did indeed take some photos after the great deleting. There are only 15 photos, but over 50% of the card's space is full, so some are obvious gone, but there's hope for some, too. &#xA;&#xA;Thanks for the answers. I'll be sure to come back for upvoting &amp; accepting after I've tried some of the suggestions. " CreationDate="2010-07-22T22:35:08.767" UserId="350" />
  <row Id="904" PostId="1080" Text="I second the 28mm f2.8, i've used it for pretty much the exact same thing." CreationDate="2010-07-22T22:55:03.813" UserId="360" />
  <row Id="905" PostId="1133" Text="+1 - PhotoRescue has saved me once or twice." CreationDate="2010-07-22T23:07:52.030" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="906" PostId="1124" Text="This is pretty much exactly what my reply was going to be. Tripod + remote + casual conversation = good photos.&#xA;&#xA;Check out this video about Peter Hurley, and watch how he does it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpKsuP0NlzI" CreationDate="2010-07-22T23:14:08.727" UserId="360" />
  <row Id="907" PostId="1128" Text="Why the downvote? If you don't explain what it is that you think is wrong, it can't improve the answer." CreationDate="2010-07-22T23:52:27.820" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="908" PostId="896" Text="@jrista I think multiple answers from a single user are OK - I've seen it done on StackOverflow." CreationDate="2010-07-22T23:53:07.677" UserId="386" />
  <row Id="909" PostId="1125" Score="1" Text="This is actually a question about recovering deleted files, it doesn't really make any differene that they are images. Perhaps would fit better on superuser?" CreationDate="2010-07-22T23:54:43.400" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="910" PostId="1165" Text="Ex: If the following link works, this will show a really quick correction using Paint Shop Pro:  http://blog.componentoriented.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/943558198_RBsjt-Ma.jpg" CreationDate="2010-07-23T01:06:10.400" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="912" PostId="14" Text="away from keyboard (meaning not at the tripod)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T01:13:03.540" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="913" PostId="1098" Text="This doesn't really answer the question...you basically answered why he shouldn't try out film, but didn't really offer any compelling reasons he **should** try out film. I also think some of your points are a bit subjective...you've *chosen* to let the camera capture the moment for you, rather than building the skill to anticipate that moment and capture it on film at the right time. I know some phenomenal wedding photographers who use film, and they don't seem to miss those perfect moments of love and expression. I think your explanation of &quot;why not&quot; is the perfect example of &quot;why to&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-23T01:59:33.007" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="914" PostId="1016" Text="I take your point(s). If the final destination is a print anyway, my answer doesn't stand." CreationDate="2010-07-23T02:21:28.553" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="915" PostId="1128" Text="+1 but maybe a link to a good post on superuser to further talk about this and enlighten any user who comes here?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T03:05:56.047" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="916" PostId="1069" Score="8" Text="+1 for the mental jump. &quot;OMG! I am having a baby! That'll change everything. To start with, I'll need new camera equipment!&quot; (More seriously, congrats!)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T03:34:03.093" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="917" PostId="1066" Text="What region are you in?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T03:39:15.590" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="918" PostId="1055" Score="1" Text="I think 13-14 stops is a gross overestimate. If you read a few reviews on DPReview, the average usable range of stops is about 9 at the lowest ISO, but thats pushing the sensor to its limits. Dynamic range drops as ISO is increased. Only the most top-end camera bodies with larger sensors are capable of a larger dynamic range, but &quot;maximum&quot; and &quot;average&quot; mean to very different things from a practical use perspective." CreationDate="2010-07-23T03:41:07.853" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="920" PostId="1066" Text="In the USA (California specifically)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T04:06:42.847" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="921" PostId="1103" Text="Is it important to you that the remote be wireless?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T04:09:05.420" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="922" PostId="1055" Text="Sure, the actual practical usable range is less, but it's not my estimate here, but an actual measurement done by DXO. If you look at DPReview's ACR best curve in 14-bit mode for Nikon D3x, then it's over 11 stops. So I don't see anything wrong with the answer." CreationDate="2010-07-23T04:24:36.903" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="923" PostId="1184" Text="Thank you for the answer. What Auto compensating tripod do you have?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T04:53:55.827" UserId="265" />
  <row Id="924" PostId="1090" Text="I like the way you think, ok this is for the digital camera, even if I am not 100% sure that this is absolute correct because you always see something on photo, Now how about human eyes, how many stops we see ? and how about monitors ? how many stop range they have ?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T05:17:38.597" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="925" PostId="1057" Text="@Reed Because of average ? the 50% is the average of black and white or not ?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T05:27:59.890" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="926" PostId="969" Text="@Matt what means &quot;lack of jargon&quot; ? :)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T05:36:19.860" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="927" PostId="1188" Text="Total aside, I noticed you're from Greece. Kalimera!" CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:06:32.347" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="928" PostId="236" Text="Yeah, most of the time the free ICE works great - it just lacks control for the cases where you need fine-tuning." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:10:27.783" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="929" PostId="1093" Text="Well, you can get them on ebay, but some retailers offer them, too. And there are a lot other triggers on ebay, too.&#xA;I own two senders and five receivers and use them a lot, not only for firing my flashes but as remote trigger for my cam, too.&#xA;For flash they work great, for remote triggering the cam they could be better. They tend to take two or three pictures with one press, since timing sensitivity is not *that* good." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:17:51.560" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="930" PostId="1090" Text="@jrista, sorry, english is not my first language, and sometimes it shows.  &#xA;I thought Highlight Tone Priority just underexposes the image if blown highlights are in the picture, and raises the dark parts - so it does not really extend DR, it just rescues a bit more of the RAW DR in jpegs." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:21:14.983" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="931" PostId="1090" Text="@aristos, I always wondered how the correct DR is defined or measured. And I'm not sure a DR for eyes could really be compared to a cam." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:25:07.490" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="932" PostId="1189" Text="@Alan I have adobe gamma wizard, but for me I think that have an error (and I do not wont to play it fancy). The error is on gamma calibrate, they do not have 18% gray, but 50% gray compare it with 18% (in the middle). The pattern that they have made is not correct, compare it with my patter - they are different. You that you have a calibrator, how do you see them ?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:33:35.787" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="933" PostId="1132" Score="4" Text="This very much resonates with the three levels of learning: As Beginner, you have to follow the rules to the letter. As Intermediate you have to break all rules, to achieve the understanding of a Master." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:44:04.953" UserId="221" />
  <row Id="934" PostId="1052" Score="1" Text="I would be doubful if it depth had anything to do directly with dynamic range. Simplistically you might think so, but in reality the manufacturers would use many different tricks to get around this." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:55:51.623" UserId="426" />
  <row Id="935" PostId="623" Score="1" Text="The reason AutoPano Pro is that good is because it uses the algorithms behind AutoStitch, which has some very cool scientific publications about the stitching process." CreationDate="2010-07-23T06:56:36.350" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="936" PostId="1187" Text="AutoStitch is an amazing program using very cool algorithms :) If you want more user friendliness try AutoPano Pro " CreationDate="2010-07-23T07:02:48.660" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="938" PostId="1055" Text="@Karel: The ACR &quot;best&quot; curve is the widest *workable dynamic range* once a RAW file has been imported into Photoshop, but that is not a gauge of the sensor's actual real-world range. That is representative of the RAW &quot;headroom&quot;, not real-world usable DR. If you read the DPReview review thoroughly, you'll find the tables that list the &quot;Usable range&quot;, which is 8.4EV@ISO100, and peaks at 9.3EV@ISO3200. The tone curves from actual images range from about -4.9EV in the shadows to about 3.7EV in the highlights on average...which is about 8.5-8.6 stops of usable DR. " CreationDate="2010-07-23T07:13:43.390" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="939" PostId="1090" Text="@Sam: Highlight Tone Priority does extend DR a bit. If you check the actual tone curves w/ and w/o HTP, you can see slight loss on the shadow side but fairly considerable gain on the highlight side when HTP is active. It does this by slightly underexposing, adjusting ISO, and adjusting other settings based on the metered light." CreationDate="2010-07-23T07:17:48.123" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="940" PostId="1098" Text="I disagree, obviously.  I think that 'slowing down' is not perfectly correlated with 'shooting film.'  It is possible to develop all of the skills that everyone's listed as an advantage without shooting film.  It is possible that he will learn a lot of skills that will be hard to use once companies stop making film developing solutions, ie, he will be developing obsolete skills." CreationDate="2010-07-23T07:23:54.520" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="941" PostId="1055" Text="I read the DXO review, and I am rather skeptical about the results. They do not explain how they arrive at their results, and the charts do not seem particularly logical. They list the highest DR of 13.65ev was taken from a &quot;normalized print&quot; from Photoshop, but they do not explain exactly what was done with the image. They state that the D3X has a better dynamic range than the Sony A900, which is contrary to every other review of those two cameras that I've ever read, all of which were more thorough and provided detailed insight into the testing methods and more logical conclusions." CreationDate="2010-07-23T07:24:58.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="942" PostId="1052" Score="1" Text="Bit depth is only directly proportional to dynamic range when applying a linear tone curve, and even then you are limited by noise. Most cameras and software apply a non-linear tone curve when processing RAW images, so the effective real-world dynamic range is less than the theoretical maximum, and ultimately determined by the tone curve applied to the image." CreationDate="2010-07-23T07:31:40.367" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="943" PostId="1142" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [How many stops can a digital camera capture?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1050/how-many-stops-can-a-digital-camera-capture)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:02:17.860" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="944" PostId="969" Text="You're asking a question about metering, exposure, and white balance - but without using any of those words. To me, that suggests either &quot;beginner&quot;, or &quot;native language isn't English&quot;, or both... (apologies, again, if I guessed wrong!)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:05:58.133" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="945" PostId="1055" Score="1" Text="@jrista - my understanding is that the question is not about average or real-world usable or widest workable dynamic range. It's about the sensor maximum, even if it's theoretical. What you actually get from a real scene will depend on a lot of other factors in addition to sensors max.&#xA;&#xA;I don't understand your RAW headroom comment, it seems like it would be something in addition to what the sensor can capture. My understanding is that almost every step from the capture will reduce the range, including tone curves. There won't be anything to pull once the pixel is saturated." CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:09:19.483" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="946" PostId="1125" Score="1" Text="@Guffa There are tools specialised in recovering images, that can scan the file system for things that look like they might be photos etc. Agree it's borderline, but it's probably of interest here." CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:09:32.803" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="947" PostId="1055" Text="I don't have enough information to argue regarding DXO results and have thus edited my answer to link to DPReview for now." CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:14:47.673" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="948" PostId="1189" Text="Indeed, use one of the monitor calibration tools available. I've got a DataColor Spider and calibrate my monitor every month. It takes about 5 min and you're done." CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:17:05.703" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="949" PostId="471" Text="Sure.. its just that I dont know how to make it community wiki. " CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:19:47.100" UserId="171" />
  <row Id="950" PostId="1131" Score="1" Text="Yes, I've used Sandisk RescuePRO with success a couple of times." CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:25:06.073" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="951" PostId="48" Score="1" Text="@Rownland Shaw Picasa works on Windows and has similar concepts to iPhoto Smart Albums." CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:39:19.830" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="952" PostId="1130" Score="1" Text="Yes, PhotoRec is very awesome, even when the file system is destroyed on the card, it can recover jpg's" CreationDate="2010-07-23T08:46:09.830" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="954" PostId="1080" Score="1" Text="Care to elaborate on why these are the best? " CreationDate="2010-07-23T09:55:33.027" UserId="442" />
  <row Id="955" PostId="1189" Text="@Aristos: It doesn't really matter if you calibrate gamma at 18% or 50%. A 50% raster is easier to blur out by squinting than an 18% raster, which is probably why they chose that point." CreationDate="2010-07-23T10:48:03.977" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="956" PostId="1135" Score="2" Text="Any chance you could include the key points of the article in your answer? If your blog ever goes offline it'd be good to still have the answers here, and it makes sense to have the question and answers in one location." CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:15:13.983" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="957" PostId="1130" Text="+1 for PhotoRec. Easy, fast, and unerring. Made a lot of friends happy recovering their photos!" CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:33:08.383" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="958" PostId="1081" Score="1" Text="As stated by Shark Attack below, who is a dad, the bounce flash results in closed eyes." CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:48:56.173" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="959" PostId="1080" Score="2" Text="Because they're reasonably fast (have a lowish f number). This means that the aperture can be opened up wide to capture as much light as possible, thus avoiding the need to use flash, which can create unnatural looking photographs, both in terms of the general look of the photo and behaviour of the subject (baby).&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-23T11:53:25.757" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="960" PostId="1210" Score="2" Text="Mark, you do a great job in proving the point that &quot;the best camera is the one the you have with you&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-23T12:01:30.640" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="961" PostId="697" Text="Personally I've found that Lightroom 3 is slower and uses more system memory to do the same job as Lightroom 2.x. The slower processing time is apparently due to the improved processing algorithms." CreationDate="2010-07-23T12:16:21.750" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="962" PostId="1186" Score="1" Text="I'd love to see one of these shots" CreationDate="2010-07-23T12:22:12.690" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="963" PostId="1228" Text="Are you referring to loading them using the iPad Camera Connection Kit? If so, are you unable to delete the JPEG preview or the RAW image the JPEG was rendered from?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T12:25:52.183" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="964" PostId="1235" Score="6" Text="+1 for trying both to see which one works for you. It's like Canon vs Nikon - both are good enough to get excellent results; it's more a case of finding which works *for you*." CreationDate="2010-07-23T12:44:46.480" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="965" PostId="1173" Text="I owned a set of Cactus V2 and discarded them.&#xA;At home they worked quite ok, but on several locations they tended to fire the flash without reason, probably due to electro signals of other electronic devices." CreationDate="2010-07-23T13:14:52.257" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="967" PostId="1179" Text="If you have a recent Nikon camera, like my D5000, you might be able to use this tip from Ken Rockwell: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d5000/users-guide/menus-setup.htm#secret" CreationDate="2010-07-23T13:37:47.443" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="968" PostId="1177" Text="Related question, with some of the same answers: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/773/how-much-metadata-do-you-add-to-your-photos" CreationDate="2010-07-23T13:38:19.423" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="970" PostId="822" Text="thanks Mark, I will have a look at meta, I believe there should have a FAQ on that subject" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:17:44.727" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="971" PostId="1235" Score="2" Text="Nicely balanced.  +1" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:29:32.700" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="972" PostId="1228" Text="Clarification: are you trying to delete files off of the iPad itself, or off of a memory card that you have in the camera connection kit dongle?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:29:47.567" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="973" PostId="248" Text="I suppose that's all there is to it, they're like Folders.  Maybe I should have stressed the &quot;how do you use them in your workflow&quot; aspect, although that would have been another question!  Agree about Smart Collections, a completely different kettle of fish, and very useful." CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:31:35.690" UserId="96" />
  <row Id="974" PostId="279" Text="Yes, this is very thorough!  So I'm accepting it, thanks all for some good answers, plenty of food for thought." CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:34:16.777" UserId="96" />
  <row Id="975" PostId="1081" Score="1" Text="I am a dad - and yes I do get closed eyes now and then, but not often. I completely agree with bounced flash(es). &#xA;&#xA;I setup my flashes in the corner of the room and use remote trigger (Nikon CLS) to trigger them (TTL mode). This setup, has served me for 4 years (since my son was a newborn until now) using various lenses (but does not matter, since I always have enough light). &#xA;&#xA;Plus, I gain a huge body of knowledge in working with flashes. &#xA;&#xA;There is nothing wrong with getting a faster lens as I do have some, but it can only do so much indoors without flash." CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:39:40.837" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="976" PostId="1228" Text="Hrm, I smell a good App idea :D" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:52:37.090" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="977" PostId="1197" Text="I got to watch some early demos and concepts of the airborne laser systems. They used it to torch some poor schlubs mailbox. I thought that was a little cold blooded." CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:54:15.357" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="978" PostId="1035" Text="If you vote -1, it's common (stack) courtesy to post a comment why, so the Answerer can fix their answer. Thanks :D" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:56:37.300" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="979" PostId="1034" Text="If you vote -1, it's common (stack) courtesy to post a comment why, so the Answerer can fix their answer. Thanks :D" CreationDate="2010-07-23T14:57:13.383" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="980" PostId="1184" Text="The telescope comes with the tripod but you would need to get the Motor Drive, DA for CG-4 mounts for it. " CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:25:45.807" UserId="335" />
  <row Id="981" PostId="514" Text="I've had some success using a x4 filter on my Nikon 18-52mm kit lens." CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:33:36.743" UserId="430" />
  <row Id="982" PostId="169" Text="Er, why the downvote? Is there something wrong with what I've written?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:36:39.817" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="983" PostId="48" Text="As does Lightroom" CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:38:44.497" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="984" PostId="1245" Text="How much memory is enough? What are you running?&#xA;&#xA;I don't know if I can justify the expense of an SSD right now." CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:41:36.307" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="985" PostId="1247" Text="Thanks for that; interesting.&#xA;&#xA;Pity the reviews all say that the image size and quality fall way behind the dedicated still image stitching Apps.&#xA;&#xA;There's an App' opportunity here I think ..." CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:43:12.920" UserId="436" />
  <row Id="986" PostId="1245" Text="On my MBP, 4GB is the limit. I can push it to 6GB, but I dont think it's worth it. By enough memory, I mean, since you have 4GB of RAM, as long as your computer is using less than 4GB, then you won't have memory issue." CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:52:42.620" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="987" PostId="1246" Text="Excellent, thanks!  I hadn't heard of Zeikos before, but I just looked them up for my Nikon D700 and I found they make a ZE-NBG300 for it, so perfect!  The price is excellent, and your comments agree with the bulk of comments on Amazon that gave it 5 stars." CreationDate="2010-07-23T15:53:22.183" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="988" PostId="170" Text="Ditto on what *davr* stated..22mp is high enough to print an unscaled 13x19 print, or a much larger scaled one. Generally speaking, digital noise is less apparent when a sensor is &quot;less dense&quot;, which is usually the case with larger full-frame sensors, even though they often have higher MP counts. When the photosites of a sensor are smaller and more densely packed, the signal bleed from each photosite has a greater chance of affecting the neighbor sites, hence the higher apparent noise levels on smaller, denser sensors (i.e. APS-C vs. Full-Frame, the FF will usually exhibit lower signal noise.)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:04:57.343" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="989" PostId="1145" Score="2" Text="Of my tests, not only was Costco cheap, but it also consistently produced the best-looking scans.  Walmart was a shade cheaper, but the quality was *terrible*." CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:37:05.957" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="990" PostId="1145" Score="1" Text="Some quality samples: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninja999/1749937078/lightbox/  http://www.flickr.com/photos/ninja999/1509294615/lightbox/" CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:39:44.143" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="991" PostId="1230" Score="3" Text="Might be good to use the tag &quot;apple-aperture&quot; instead of &quot;aperture&quot;..." CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:46:23.403" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="992" PostId="917" Score="1" Text="35mm isn't a very good focal length for portraits, regardless of the crop factor." CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:49:44.130" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="993" PostId="1256" Text="Non-camera-specific settings are fine -- I don't need a walkthrough for the photocamera setting screens. I just specified the camera to give you an idea of the product range I have available to me :)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:49:46.410" UserId="479" />
  <row Id="994" PostId="1256" Text="Can you clarify what kind of results you are after? For example, you could post an image which you tried but you feel was unsuccessful, or examples of others' images that demonstrate what you'd like to achieve. Also, simply describing in words would be very helpful as well." CreationDate="2010-07-23T16:51:07.313" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="996" PostId="1256" Text="@Reid: done. The subject may not be the most interesting ever, I agree." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:03:28.900" UserId="479" />
  <row Id="997" PostId="1200" Text="I'm not partial to any albums per se, but yes, I agree that I'm likely better off downloading to my computer and then syncing back to the iPhone through iTunes" CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:14:29.397" UserId="172" />
  <row Id="998" PostId="1193" Score="2" Text="Thank you for the detailed answer. I appreciate the links and the suggestions." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:15:47.927" UserId="265" />
  <row Id="999" PostId="1257" Score="1" Text="Flash, that's something I should've thought about." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:19:54.973" UserId="479" />
  <row Id="1000" PostId="1055" Text="@Karel: RAW headroom refers to the ability to capture information beyond what can be visually represented at a single time. The best example is with photographic highlights in RAW images. You can capture enough highlight information such that your highlights can be recovered, and the same goes for deep shadows. However, the process of recovering extended highlights or shadows has an effect of reducing the overall contrast range of the image. Even though the highlights and shadows are there, they are not usable until recovered, hence the reason &quot;effective DR&quot; is not the same as &quot;maximum DR&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:22:41.723" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1001" PostId="699" Text="I agree with that remote is a must. " CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:23:45.187" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1002" PostId="1055" Text="I've removed my down vote, as your answer is much better now. :) I still think that 10-11 stops is pushing it for the D3X, and 8-9 stops would be more realistic." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:24:26.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1003" PostId="1020" Text="@Karel: That's maybe a better formulation, agreed." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:26:56.600" UserId="179" />
  <row Id="1004" PostId="1245" Text="Alan is right, as long as you are not maxing out your RAM, you are fine in that department. SSD swap for your 5400 rpm HD will make the MBP screams, not only during LR3, but overall. &#xA;&#xA;Another possible factor is your graphic card. I am not sure what kind of graphic card you have, but if it's maxed out it will then starts to use CPU power (which then slows the MBP down)." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:27:08.190" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1005" PostId="1259" Text="There is some disagreement about whether or not this type of question should be on-topic here. See the discussion here: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/63/photo-location-tips-on-or-off-topic" CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:29:38.873" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1006" PostId="1255" Score="1" Text="+1 for ffmpeg.  It makes it as simple as one command to make a video.  Superb." CreationDate="2010-07-23T17:50:10.490" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="1007" PostId="1123" Text="That 50% thing sounds like a good deal, unless you're like me and want to keep all of them :)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:06:10.257" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="1008" PostId="47" Score="1" Text="There's also a difference in bokeh due to the number of blades used to form the aperture. The f/1.4s have a nicer bokeh." CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:06:35.187" UserId="414" />
  <row Id="1009" PostId="897" Text="@matt - for instances where I have a lens wide open (f/1.8 - f/1.4) and still can't quite get a focal lock. Again, this is rather specific to DSLRs" CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:07:08.460" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="1010" PostId="1086" Text="I was afraid of that :(" CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:08:07.443" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="1011" PostId="1163" Text="Necessity is the mother of invention :)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:08:48.630" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="1012" PostId="1265" Text="&quot;be as close to the rain as possible&quot; That might have been a problem, I was taking the photos from the side of my house that was best covered from rain to avoid getting any on my lens (I don't really know how to properly clean them.)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:13:47.730" UserId="479" />
  <row Id="1013" PostId="1259" Text="What exactly do you want to know? Equipment tips, location tips, landscape photography tips?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T18:31:21.797" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1014" PostId="1269" Score="3" Text="Definitely on-topic btw. I took the liberty of removing your pre-apology for off-topicness. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T19:04:26.393" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1015" PostId="1193" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the info! I agree with Chuck, excellent answer." CreationDate="2010-07-23T19:10:28.723" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1016" PostId="1278" Score="1" Text="Great question, I'm in a very similar position, so I'll be watching this one!" CreationDate="2010-07-23T19:42:17.603" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1017" PostId="1287" Text="+1: good advice :)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:29:28.003" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1018" PostId="1285" Text="Thank you for the detailed answer, Alan. :) To answer some of your questions: I am a bit critical of my own work, but I am purposely so as it forces me to improve. The main reason I've asked the original question was I've gotten a lot of negative critical review from other photographers (most notably, 1x.com). This criticism has been constructive most of the time, and I've learned a few things (i.e. how to better utilize natural lighting to enhance my work), but something still seems to be lacking. Anyway, I really appreciate your comment about &quot;Take Risks&quot;...very good advice. " CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:31:39.280" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1019" PostId="1280" Score="1" Text="I don't really think there is a &quot;right&quot; answer...I'm just looking for helpful insight. I do like your perspective though, that style and vision is a *personal development*, and must be gained through retrospection. I can't say that I've ever really tried copying others...just tried to gain insight from them. I think my problem so far is I've been rather listless and random...I don't have any consistency in any of my work. I guess I'll have to start looking for patterns in the things I **want** to photograph, and go from there. Thanks for the advice!" CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:34:41.393" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1020" PostId="1282" Text="I own the Photographers Eye. Excellent book! I've only barely started digging into it though. Part of the reason I've asked this question is I've uploaded a variety of my photos to 1x.com, a site that is very strict about what they accept. I've gotten some strong, but constructive, critical review there, and nothing has been accepted yet. Lighting is one of my biggest problems, but people have mentioned lacking style and/or vision several times, without really explaining what they really meant by it. Regarding photo contests...where/how can I find them? Are there good links/resources for that?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:37:11.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1021" PostId="1281" Text="Thanks for the comment. You mentioned photo challenges...where might I find such things? I spend most of my time online, submitting to various sites (i.e. 1x.com, DeviantArt.com Groups, etc.) I guess I could look for a local photography group, but are there other ways to find groups of people involved in photo challenges?" CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:38:43.723" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1022" PostId="1100" Text="@Reid-- I know.  That's why I added the PS." CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:41:11.283" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1023" PostId="1226" Text="Thanks, I didn't know that LR3 had this built in.  I'll check that out." CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:44:46.953" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1024" PostId="1289" Text="LOL. Love it! Although.... `/p/`? I guess I haven't quite progressed that far yet. :P" CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:46:29.650" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1025" PostId="1282" Score="1" Text="There are mini-contests called challenges (already mentioned in another answer too) at DPReview: http://www.dpreview.com/challenges/. Everything else I can say would, once again, be too local." CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:50:21.497" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1026" PostId="1288" Score="3" Text="+1. Redo the wedding. WOW, now that is some insurance." CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:54:38.880" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1027" PostId="294" Text="See my comments below." CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:55:17.473" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1028" PostId="1135" Text="It's a really long article..." CreationDate="2010-07-23T20:56:20.263" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="1029" PostId="404" Text="Really nice stuff in that link you posted... thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:04:07.453" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="1030" PostId="1241" Score="4" Text="be careful with using terms like &quot;above&quot; and &quot;below on StackExchange sites.  Answers will move around based on how they are sorted and their current stats." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:07:56.743" UserId="392" />
  <row Id="1031" PostId="1098" Text="What skills will you develop when shooting film that are obsolete with digital?&#xA;&#xA;I think your answer could just be &quot;no&quot; and your contra-arguments should be comments below the posts with which you argue. &#xA;&#xA;Everybody has their own ways to realize their visions and if ancient cameras and expired film is part of it, why not." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:08:54.493" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1032" PostId="1296" Text="I'll have to try that.  I hope I can train myself to find and press that button quickly, both to lock and then unlock when the focus changes.  I had expected that quickly pressing the shutter button all the way would take another picture at the current focus, and if I wanted to re-focus, to leave it halfway.  " CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:12:58.107" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1033" PostId="1098" Text="@mmr: Even with your edited post, you have still not answered the question. I think the downsides to film are well known...its been around for about a century? There ARE benefits that can be gained by a digital user trying out film. All of the things you mentioned, like the risk of film, the cost of film, etc. are exactly the reasons why a digital user SHOULD try out film. You can only push the envelope when you know your stuck inside one...with all the &quot;limitless&quot; capabilities of digital, its hard to push the envelope. By forcing yourself to work within the limitations of film..." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:25:32.420" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1034" PostId="341" Score="1" Text="Oh definitely! Just because you've filled a memory card doesn't mean you need to use all of them! Get good photo management software (Lightroom/etc) and select only your favourites for exporting to a gallery/slideshow/whatever." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:26:18.460" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1035" PostId="1098" Text="...you increase the limitations, and reduce the size of the envelope. You then have something to work towards, you have a challenge to rise to, and difficulties to overcome. Again, as I said in my original comment...all of the downsides you list are *EXACTLY* the reasons why a digital user **SHOULD** try out film." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:26:41.157" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1036" PostId="1296" Text="You should be able to set AE-L/AF-L mode to be locked until a second press of the AE-L/AF-L button, regardless of the number of shots taken." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:32:07.447" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="1037" PostId="1297" Text="+1: awesome answer" CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:36:21.507" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1038" PostId="233" Score="1" Text="Hugin is incredibly useful for aligning multiple shots taken by hand.  I use this technique to take multiple exposures of a scene by hand then align them and then render the projected files into tiffs.  From there I open the images in any photo program as layers and take the median value and all the people magically disappear." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:58:26.183" UserId="500" />
  <row Id="1039" PostId="1187" Text="Once nice thing that I've noticed about autopano is that it does a great job of correcting colors and exposures.  This eliminates a lot of brightness issues you'd otherwise get." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:59:14.277" UserId="500" />
  <row Id="1040" PostId="1289" Text="http://boards.4chan.org/p/ for example. Not for the easily offended." CreationDate="2010-07-23T21:59:27.180" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1041" PostId="1281" Score="1" Text="One good photo challenge/assignment resource is DailyShoot.com" CreationDate="2010-07-23T22:22:00.237" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="1042" PostId="1148" Text="Found another comparison along the same lines http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/gallery/6616619_YJEwK#424020444_n2LsD-O-LB" CreationDate="2010-07-23T22:25:03.807" UserId="372" />
  <row Id="1043" PostId="1297" Text="+1 for the importance of proper understanding, but there's no &quot;should&quot;: the OP should use the tools to achieve whatever look he desires." CreationDate="2010-07-23T22:37:47.367" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1044" PostId="1301" Text="very nice answer and examples, I am now tempted to shoot film more frequently" CreationDate="2010-07-23T23:13:54.520" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="1045" PostId="1303" Score="3" Text="+1 Hugin (and enfuse which does the HDR work I use behind the scenes), it's a little tricky to use but reaaaally powerful, and the results are good." CreationDate="2010-07-23T23:13:56.753" UserId="126" />
  <row Id="1046" PostId="1297" Text="@Reid: Good point. I changed the terminology to be less concrete." CreationDate="2010-07-23T23:22:03.680" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1047" PostId="1148" Text="@Daniel: Thanks for the link. Between these two comparisons, something I've noticed is that film seems to have an edge on highlight DR, while digital seems to have an edge in shadow DR. Shades and deep shadows have much greater contrast with digital, while highlights are captured better with film (less blown out.)" CreationDate="2010-07-23T23:25:35.173" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1048" PostId="1309" Score="2" Text="As an aside - this 'measure the diagonal' is how they determine the crop factor in the first place: 43mm / 26.7mm = 1.61.  The two methods are equivalent, I just think it's interesting to know the theory too." CreationDate="2010-07-23T23:41:36.270" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1049" PostId="1313" Text="Looks neat, wonder if there's any free software that does the same thing? (RoboGeo is $80)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T00:57:10.660" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="1050" PostId="1292" Score="7" Text="For a good majority of pros, the difference is less artistic/technical and more just business sense. Most of the work of a professional photographer doesn't involve the camera." CreationDate="2010-07-24T01:00:29.527" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1051" PostId="1319" Score="1" Text="But having no filter on doesn't serve the purpose of protection." CreationDate="2010-07-24T01:41:30.617" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1052" PostId="1319" Score="3" Text="In many cases, a hood provides better protection.  Filters shatter easily, scratching the front element.&#xA;&#xA;Sandy beaches is the only place I'd use a filter, but you had better have a fully weathersealed body and lens to go with it." CreationDate="2010-07-24T02:06:34.830" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1053" PostId="1319" Text="and UV filter would be better than one of these tinted ones (including haze)." CreationDate="2010-07-24T02:13:04.673" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1054" PostId="1319" Text="But aren't pretty much all decent lenses UV coated these days? In that case, isn't a UV filter wasn't adding nothing save the protection and a bit of image degradation?" CreationDate="2010-07-24T02:51:31.040" UserId="350" />
  <row Id="1055" PostId="1319" Score="1" Text="No, lenses are not UV coated, digital sensors are just not sensitive to UV.&#xA;&#xA;I said a UV filter would be better than the aforementioned in the one scenario I described: on a windy sandy beach." CreationDate="2010-07-24T03:34:09.913" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1056" PostId="1225" Text="There's even a library on CodePlex that does all the hard work. I'd just need to make something that spits out XML side car files." CreationDate="2010-07-24T03:48:13.940" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="1057" PostId="694" Text="What cpu do you have (or cpu speed)? How much memory? What kind of video card? Hardware does play a role in your performance, but recommending improvements will require knowing what you currently have. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T03:57:22.673" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1058" PostId="1322" Text="You might consider lenses that aren't fully weather without a filter (like the 16-35 L II)." CreationDate="2010-07-24T04:38:03.933" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1059" PostId="1255" Score="2" Text="&quot;as simple as one command&quot; is relative. If you have no experience with that sort of thing, figuring out a command like `ffmpeg -i %03d.jpg -r 15 -croptop 180 -cropbottom 180 -s hd1080 -vcodec libx264 -vpre hq -crf 16 rollins_1080.mp4` (example command for turning set of time lapse images into a movie) might be near impossible" CreationDate="2010-07-24T04:40:41.573" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="1060" PostId="1319" Text="Interesting. A bit of googling turned up http://people.rit.edu/andpph/text-reflected-uv.html (from 2004) which seems to establish that the digital sensors tested *were* UV sensitive, albeit much less so than is film. The much less so makes me think you are likely right about the lack of coating. So, thanks." CreationDate="2010-07-24T05:22:28.220" UserId="350" />
  <row Id="1061" PostId="1232" Text="This looks like a nice app for some basic editing, but you cannot delete the photos from the albums. Also edits are saved back to the saved photo album, so any pics you edit would have to be copied manually after the next sync" CreationDate="2010-07-24T05:27:29.850" UserId="458" />
  <row Id="1062" PostId="894" Score="9" Text="I'd tend to disagree.  IR film has been largely discontinued,  requires special handling, and without modifying the camera is difficult to frame because of the filtering requirements.  &#xA;&#xA;I'd say the only real disadvantage of digital is the cost of a modified DSLR (and if you have of can get an old DSLR, it's not bad in the context of what is an expensive hobby). The advantages are instant feedback on focus and exposure, and usability identical to a normal camera.&#xA;&#xA;(NB: I say this despite the fact I *much* prefer film to digital, and would happily trade in my IR DSLR if Kodak HIE would return!)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T06:02:33.577" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1063" PostId="1139" Score="4" Text="I refute this with this link: http://hipstamaticapp.com/ ;-)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T06:13:46.410" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1064" PostId="891" Score="2" Text="The ability to do this does depend on the camera (i.e., it's not actually universal), though if you wanted to do it, there's certainly no shortage of capable cameras." CreationDate="2010-07-24T06:18:11.207" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1065" PostId="1115" Score="1" Text="I think this is broadly correct, but is perhaps making it a bit more black/white than is really the case.  Two quick examples:&#xA;&#xA;Nikon -&gt; Canon is actually fairly popular (at least insofar as any adapter is popular), and focus confirmation adapters do exist.  Until Nikon brought out its FX range, this was the only way to use some of the higher-end Nikon lenses on a full-frame digital.&#xA;&#xA;Anything -&gt; µ4/3 (or similar).  At least to me, it's the killer app for these cameras; adapters are made by a few major manufacturers, and they seem to sell well." CreationDate="2010-07-24T06:45:42.100" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1066" PostId="1098" Text="@jrista-- I think we're going to have to agree to disagree.  For me, this question is like asking &quot;Why should a person who uses text messages send notes by carrier pigeon?&quot;  Sure, there are things you can learn about taking care of birds, but there are other, cheaper ways to learn the exact same skills.  If you require obsolete technology to get out of an artistic rut, well, fine for you-- but it's not the only way to get out of the rut, and film to me is another way to get lost in technique without learning any better artistry." CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:01:51.897" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1067" PostId="663" Text="This is my go-to metering method when I don't want to fuss with every shot.  Even Kodak recommends it: http://www.kodak.com/cluster/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/af9/index.shtml" CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:15:38.977" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1068" PostId="1331" Text="This is the right answer.  I had to learn this with an older 50-300mm f/4.5 I borrowed from a friend.  Now that was a lens that was as long as my forearm... " CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:17:14.603" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1069" PostId="1318" Score="1" Text="See also this other question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter" CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:28:21.893" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1070" PostId="1322" Text="I'd say it's worth it for situations like: http://www.flickr.com/photos/erica_marshall/425731394/" CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:29:30.533" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1071" PostId="389" Score="1" Text="+1 for Sunny f/16 rule" CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:33:10.167" UserId="510" />
  <row Id="1072" PostId="1225" Text="well there is a Sourceforge project for that: http://sourceforge.net/projects/csxmptk/ so have fun :)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T07:56:49.423" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="1073" PostId="112" Score="1" Text="I'd love to see how the (very expensive) Singh-Ray Vari-ND Filters compare. They sure sound a lot more practical and better than all fixed ND filters." CreationDate="2010-07-24T08:52:55.357" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1074" PostId="112" Text="Oops, sorry, Vari-ND ist not graduated, so can't be compared for your uses." CreationDate="2010-07-24T08:54:08.583" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1075" PostId="1244" Score="1" Text="good points, already voted on your answer. The main difference between shooting with teleconverter on full frame body compared to using the same lens on crop body (or cropping the results from full frame) is that adding teleconverter makes the lens darker, while cropping does not affect the speed of the lens but the result in terms of DOF is as if the lens was stepped down." CreationDate="2010-07-24T11:20:30.143" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="1076" PostId="1335" Score="1" Text="thanks smillie, you are right confronting people before shooting can result in some nice portraits but it is probably not a real street any more, or at least some different style. I also think that street photography is not for everyone as you need to feel comfortable in what you are doing.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks again for all the good tips" CreationDate="2010-07-24T11:37:43.890" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="1077" PostId="856" Text="@danny I always do..." CreationDate="2010-07-24T13:13:19.907" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1078" PostId="1313" Score="1" Text="A great free option for the Mac is GPSPhotoLinker: http://www.earlyinnovations.com/gpsphotolinker/" CreationDate="2010-07-24T13:19:21.470" UserId="139" />
  <row Id="1079" PostId="304" Text="I think this quote is attributed to Chase Jarvis, who shot a series of amazing pictures with his iPhone: http://blog.chasejarvis.com/blog/2009/09/the-best-camera-iphone-app-book-community/" CreationDate="2010-07-24T13:27:50.483" UserId="513" />
  <row Id="1080" PostId="1322" Text="@Alan: And some are and some will never be even with a filter.&#xA;&#xA;@Rowland: Sure, it happens, but it is not so common that one should be paranoid about it. Also, you assume that the lens would have cracked had the filter not been there, but the lens is often recessed and so might not have.&#xA;&#xA;Anyways, it is a risk to reward scenario. Filters can affect your image, so if you accept that on the off chance you may crack the front element, then go for it. I just don't think the protection is as strong as people think it is." CreationDate="2010-07-24T13:28:38.157" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1081" PostId="164" Score="3" Text="@Roger Pate - the second link you have says a key question is &quot;can an average user learn something from this question?&quot; and for this question the answer is definitely Yes." CreationDate="2010-07-24T13:47:35.850" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1082" PostId="1327" Text="There is definitely a commonality, but I wondered about Nikon's CLS vs other solutions." CreationDate="2010-07-24T14:46:58.263" UserId="414" />
  <row Id="1083" PostId="1279" Score="1" Text="Still photo has some possibilities that filming doesn't, so you may still be able to catch real rain. You can for example use a lot longer exposure times. Interresting angle though; to fake the rain to catch what the real rain looks like. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T14:54:41.350" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1084" PostId="1208" Text="Link - [AutoPano](http://www.autopano.net/en/)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T15:07:22.757" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="1085" PostId="1244" Score="1" Text="Good points, but I do want to note that while adding a teleconverter makes the lens darker, cropping makes the noise greater.  For the same ISO, you will get a faster shutter by cropping, but effectively cropping will bring you closer to the noise, as if you had higher ISO anyway (like 4/3rds vs APS-C vs FF).  With the TC, the noise would be averaged by all the pixels and have less noise when resolution normalized.&#xA;&#xA;A (good) TC works better than cropping if the lens is out-resolving the resolution of the sensor by an amount greater than the degradation of the TC." CreationDate="2010-07-24T15:45:40.133" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1086" PostId="1128" Text="No downvote from me, but I'd guess it's because you didn't actually mention any specific tools, only a vague explanation of the fact that files can be undeleted followed by 'several different programs' and 'search the web'" CreationDate="2010-07-24T15:50:14.407" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="1087" PostId="1140" Score="2" Text="+1 for actually giving a linux tool" CreationDate="2010-07-24T15:51:41.410" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="1088" PostId="1348" Score="1" Text="+1 for squinting: avoiding full sun for portraits is as much about people's expressions as the lighting. OTOH, sunlight isn't warm, it's neutral. Shadows are a bit cool though (because they're illuminated by the blue sky)." CreationDate="2010-07-24T16:15:53.797" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1089" PostId="1348" Text="+1: I've found the auto flash settings on a speedlite produce really pleasing results in fill-flash scenarios. " CreationDate="2010-07-24T16:19:22.123" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1090" PostId="1326" Score="1" Text="+1 good question" CreationDate="2010-07-24T16:20:28.287" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1091" PostId="1300" Text="looks like I'm not the only one with those dreams.  Good to know :)" CreationDate="2010-07-24T17:36:50.140" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1093" PostId="1317" Score="1" Text="Interesting, thanks for the link!" CreationDate="2010-07-24T17:41:25.170" UserId="104" />
  <row Id="1094" PostId="1128" Text="@Mark: Perhaps. However, he actually asked for a stragegy, not a tool..." CreationDate="2010-07-24T17:44:10.830" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1095" PostId="1048" Text="I think it could be worth having on its own as the &quot;18% grey is how light meters are calibrated&quot; is a very persistent myth, and it'd be great to get a proper answer up." CreationDate="2010-07-24T17:45:48.363" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1096" PostId="97" Score="1" Text="Exactly why I have a white K-x!  And thankfully it looks better in person.&#xA;&#xA;Yes, it is significantly cooler than the black DSLR's I've used out in the sun doing stuff like birding or sports.  Lens still is hot." CreationDate="2010-07-24T18:01:21.153" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1097" PostId="1350" Score="2" Text="+1 on reputable brand, but Energizer and Duracell are really only dominant in the alkaline world; in li-ion, a different set of manufacturers are the reputable brands. Who they are and whether E &amp; D are also members of that set, I don't know." CreationDate="2010-07-24T18:04:37.917" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1099" PostId="1351" Text="As an aside, it's silly that so few manufacturers support 64-bit OSes, when photographers get the most out of having loads of memory. Until there is 64-bit support, I'm not upgrading from Vista" CreationDate="2010-07-24T18:16:34.697" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1100" PostId="1313" Text="@davr See some of the other answers for free options" CreationDate="2010-07-24T18:21:10.880" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1101" PostId="502" Text="+1 for Dimitrov" CreationDate="2010-07-24T18:30:22.063" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="1102" PostId="1351" Text="@Rowland: Ah, you reminded me, I do have 64bit. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-24T18:31:58.910" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1103" PostId="1351" Text="@jrista still worth installing the manufacturers' 32 bit codecs, as some applications will still use them, for example, Microsoft Pro Photo Tools" CreationDate="2010-07-24T19:10:29.730" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1104" PostId="1316" Text="I tried GPicSync with a log from an app in my phone, and it works fine once you figure out the right time offset to use." CreationDate="2010-07-24T19:25:01.210" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1105" PostId="1351" Text="@Roland: I am not really having problems with applications using them...I just need Windows Explorer to generate thumbnails. " CreationDate="2010-07-24T19:36:07.860" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1106" PostId="1352" Text="That's a great idea — thanks." CreationDate="2010-07-24T19:49:19.683" UserId="515" />
  <row Id="1107" PostId="1351" Text="@jrista There are some third party (paid for) codecs that claim to support 64 bit operating systems, such as: http://www.ardfry.com/cr2-codec/ I had mixed results with them, and decided to uninstall at the end of my trial." CreationDate="2010-07-24T20:10:02.833" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1108" PostId="1332" Score="1" Text="I've tried OSM Tracker, and it works fine to create the logs. MS Pro Photo Tools doesn't really agree with me, though, I can position images, but it drops the information before I can save it to the images..." CreationDate="2010-07-24T21:26:39.560" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1110" PostId="1139" Score="2" Text="Yeah taking a photo that looks analog with your Apple iPhone is nice but you would be scoffed at by your full bear wearing, fixed gear riding, hipster friends. On a serious note, Alien Skin Exposure has some nice presets." CreationDate="2010-07-24T23:51:50.290" UserId="351" />
  <row Id="1111" PostId="570" Score="1" Text="The question specifically references rechargeable batteries, of which NiMH is the dominant chemistry in AA. Thus, it seems reasonable to expect that folks might search on [nimh]." CreationDate="2010-07-25T00:09:02.673" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1112" PostId="92" Score="3" Text="+1 - Reflection is an even bigger problem at night, with the high-contrast lighting." CreationDate="2010-07-25T01:56:14.393" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1113" PostId="1377" Score="2" Text="+1 Excellent answer! The background information was informative." CreationDate="2010-07-25T02:53:37.360" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1114" PostId="183" Text="I think it's the best answer here, but it could certainly explain the ETTR concept a bit better." CreationDate="2010-07-25T06:52:38.297" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1115" PostId="1235" Score="1" Text="Granted - I'm sure this could descend into a religious debate, and appreciate your reply.  I'll take your advice and give both a try" CreationDate="2010-07-25T09:00:06.423" UserId="460" />
  <row Id="1116" PostId="1241" Text="Community/Plugis: I hadn't thought of that - good call" CreationDate="2010-07-25T09:05:09.843" UserId="460" />
  <row Id="1117" PostId="1395" Score="2" Text="Only some digital cameras have an UV filter, most only have an IR filter." CreationDate="2010-07-25T09:15:40.750" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1118" PostId="1393" Score="1" Text="Related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1318/which-filter-is-the-more-generally-useful-skylight-1a-or-skylight-1b" CreationDate="2010-07-25T09:23:32.813" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1119" PostId="1310" Text="Thanks for the input. Can you update the units in your 8X10 quotation? CM or Inch?" CreationDate="2010-07-25T11:59:26.500" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="1120" PostId="661" Text="Fantastic answer. +1" CreationDate="2010-07-25T14:34:27.463" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="1121" PostId="394" Text="Nice link! I didn't know about DPS." CreationDate="2010-07-25T15:11:05.347" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="1122" PostId="1394" Text="If you take this route, be aware that the polarizer will lose you 1.5-2 stops of light." CreationDate="2010-07-25T15:20:39.593" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1123" PostId="1318" Text="Also, the more recent http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1393/lens-protection-choose-between-protector-or-uv-filter" CreationDate="2010-07-25T16:01:31.860" UserId="350" />
  <row Id="1124" PostId="1328" Score="1" Text="Finally! Been wondering if this was possible. And yes, CTRL toggles Auto Sync in Windows." CreationDate="2010-07-25T16:17:35.230" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="1125" PostId="893" Score="1" Text="There's a blow up challenge that shows blowing a D700 image up to a 17meter print works out pretty well: http://fwd.five.tv/videos/challenge-blow-up-part-3&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-25T16:22:47.753" UserId="524" />
  <row Id="1126" PostId="1409" Text="+1 - same here. I can't recall ever having used any cleaning fluid on any of my lenses." CreationDate="2010-07-25T17:13:59.733" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1127" PostId="893" Text="@Sander: Thanks for the link. I tried to play the video, however I get the following message: 'The video you are trying to watch cannot be viewed from your current country or location' Very odd message...is there somewhere else we could view the video? Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-25T17:43:22.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1128" PostId="1409" Text="The advice I've always had is to never use fluids, as they can damage the anti-glare (etc) coatings" CreationDate="2010-07-25T17:44:49.433" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1129" PostId="1400" Text="Thanks! Looks like I was just using a wrong search keyword. Tiling is what I should have been googling for." CreationDate="2010-07-25T18:03:29.050" UserId="532" />
  <row Id="1130" PostId="1409" Text="Any recommended brand? I have a Marumi and a Giotto's right now." CreationDate="2010-07-25T18:16:08.620" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="1131" PostId="1409" Score="3" Text="Using a cloth on its own risks rubbing dust or grit against the lens coatings; a soft brush first is a very good idea.  @Rowland purpose-made lens cleaners won't damage optical coatings, even older, soft single-coated ones." CreationDate="2010-07-25T18:30:58.667" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1132" PostId="762" Score="2" Text="I agree that this is legitimate question. +1." CreationDate="2010-07-25T19:27:39.330" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1133" PostId="837" Score="2" Text="I think this could be improved w.r.t. action; it's leaving out that the duration of the flash is at least as good at stopping action as the shutter.  Sync speed only needs to stop action in fill-flash situations." CreationDate="2010-07-25T19:46:41.577" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1134" PostId="1328" Text="@Bobby - thanks, I'll remove the hedging in the answer!" CreationDate="2010-07-25T19:48:31.993" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1135" PostId="1299" Text="Awesome, never thought about doing that. Fortunately, with the E-PL1 I can set the shutter speed and still use the flash.  The sample photos really helped out.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-25T20:06:55.460" UserId="500" />
  <row Id="1136" PostId="837" Text="@smillie: Thanks for the comment. I've updated the answer to provide info on flash pulse duration and its effect on stopping motion. Let me know if you think its sufficient. While I understand flash theory, I've done minimal work with flash as most of my work is nature/wildlife and has been during bright daylight." CreationDate="2010-07-25T20:34:39.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1137" PostId="1115" Text="Oh that hugely depends on what are you shooting. Street? Forget the adapters. Macro flowers in the studio? Perfect. " CreationDate="2010-07-25T21:13:14.120" UserId="341" />
  <row Id="1138" PostId="1411" Text="I was looking for that link the other day, for a posting on using UV filters as protection, as an example of why paranoia about lens protection is not worth it." CreationDate="2010-07-25T21:28:45.410" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1139" PostId="837" Score="1" Text="Looks good to me!" CreationDate="2010-07-25T21:39:08.810" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1140" PostId="1420" Text="I saw that page a while ago and was impressed by the lack of artefacts on the images." CreationDate="2010-07-25T21:51:07.980" UserId="441" />
  <row Id="1141" PostId="1422" Text="Note, right click and view image to see the larger size." CreationDate="2010-07-25T22:08:12.010" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1142" PostId="1422" Text="I guess we'd need to see the image before and after noise reduction to judge the change in quality." CreationDate="2010-07-25T22:14:50.973" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1143" PostId="1395" Text="Well, you can get Fujifilm IS Pro, which is advertised to be sensitive to UV light: http://www.dpreview.com/news/0707/07071304fujifilmispro.asp" CreationDate="2010-07-25T22:32:30.583" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1144" PostId="1140" Text="Similar approach has worked for me, but instead of sleuth kit I have simply 'grepped' the card image for JPEG headers. Since the pictures were stored sequentially, this actually extracted most of them." CreationDate="2010-07-25T22:53:00.920" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1145" PostId="1422" Text="@che: There ya go!" CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:06:08.060" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1146" PostId="1422" Text="@John: Thank you!" CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:09:38.133" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1147" PostId="1404" Score="1" Text="W.r.t. the long exposure noise reduction, you can do this manually - take an image with the same ISO and shutter speed as your real shot, with the lens cap and viewfinder covers on, and then you can manually subtract that from the images. That's all the camera is doing anyway." CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:27:01.100" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1148" PostId="1422" Text="Thanks for the example images, John. Very helpful. Now, at a reduced size on a computer screen, the cleaned image looks great. However, at full size, for a print, there is a noticeable loss in sharpness that I would like to avoid. I guess my real dilemma is whether the loss in sharpness is worse than the noise once the photo is printed. Do you have any examples from this `Noise Ninja` tool?" CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:33:05.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1149" PostId="1426" Text="I'll see if I can get some crops of the photos I'm worried about. The problem is not quite as apparent at ISO 800, but ISO 1600 shows a lot of grain even when printed. Perhaps its not really a problem, but I do think I lose some interesting detail when it occurs, particularly in animal fur and bird feathers. " CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:37:01.923" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1150" PostId="1422" Text="I don't really have much from Noise Ninja, but I will mention that the reduced size on screen is roughly comparable to print output. Bear in mind that screen resolution is about 96 dpi and printers are typically 3 times that. In any case, once you've done the noise reduction, you can kick in some sharpening options. By the way, Noise Ninja is an excellent program and offers stand-alone if you don't have Photoshop, I just prefer the Topaz option." CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:40:47.723" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1151" PostId="763" Score="3" Text="Note that K-x and K-7 both supported creating compressed DNG's, the older cameras create DNGs that are larger than their PEF alternatives." CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:41:25.053" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1152" PostId="1422" Text="As an additional note, both of them offer trial versions, so you can certainly check out the outcome and decide for yourself. I think you may be pleasantly surprised." CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:42:27.173" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1153" PostId="1422" Score="1" Text="Was that shot in JPEG or RAW?" CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:44:36.500" UserId="522" />
  <row Id="1154" PostId="1426" Text="I've added some sample crops to my OP. Both images were cropped a bit from the original size, then printed. The flower looks ok when printed at 4x6, but the desired 8x10 looks pretty grainy. The bird looked a bit grainy at 8x10. Perhaps that is ok though, if looked at from the perspective of it being an &quot;artistic&quot; element. I'll have to reevaluate my prints given that." CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:55:49.393" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1155" PostId="1421" Text="Note: All sample images were shot in RAW...I rarely use JPEG outside of quick family or spur-of-the-moment stuff where I use an automatic mode." CreationDate="2010-07-25T23:56:31.547" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1156" PostId="1426" Text="@Reid: Regarding the 100% crop thing...most of my prints are at 13&quot;x19&quot;, or A+ format. My 12.1mp camera's full crop size is just barely enough to print an unscaled (or rather, slightly scaled up) 13x19 @ 240ppi. Prints generally look ok at ISO800, however many of the more recent bird shots have been in the evening, and the grain from them is pretty pronounced even in the prints. I tend to crop the bird photos a fair bit, as I only have a 100-400mm telephoto, and I can't get quite close enough to really get the proper composition optically yet. Would you still consider that a &quot;crop trap&quot;? " CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:02:16.837" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1157" PostId="1422" Text="@John: Thanks for the links. I'll give both programs a try, see if they can help. I don't really think I need to completely eliminate luminance noise, just reduce it enough so it is not visible. Lightroom only has a very small amount of leeway before it starts softening the image...hopefully one of these two tools will do a better job. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:05:34.243" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1158" PostId="1421" Text="It's not directly related to the question, but flowers can be lit by flash most of the time." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:25:33.030" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1159" PostId="1421" Score="3" Text="Regarding the grain in the bird shot; the green channel carries most of the luminance information, which gives the noise in the green background more contrast." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:26:41.720" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1160" PostId="1422" Text="@Dennis: It's RAW. I only shoot RAW to give me more control over the outcome and media/disk is cheap." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:27:03.777" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1161" PostId="1426" Text="Still sounds a bit like crop trap. Show the prints to a few people, count how many examine them with a loupe." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:30:16.390" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1162" PostId="1428" Text="Thanks for the insight. Good to hear that the ISO performance of my 450D isn't too bad. I to like the look of film grain better than noise though...not sure exactly what it is...maybe the more random nature of it, and the dynamic size of the grains, since its based off of the size of silver halide clusters. Digital noise grain is all the same size. I do know that Lightroom 3 adds a film grain adder tool...I may give that a try once I upgrade." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:31:23.723" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1163" PostId="1426" Score="2" Text="@jrista: Your screen is 96 DPI and your prints are 2.5 times more tightly packed. That's the 100% crop trap, because you're not comparing reasonably as the density on your monitor doesn't even come close to the print. This is why I tend to post online somewhere around 25-35% from the original image as it approximates the same visual effect of a print (I also print between 11x17 and 13x19). If the image looks sharp there, it will very likely also do when printed." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:31:57.417" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1164" PostId="1421" Text="@Guffa: Ah! That makes total sense. Digital sensors do have twice as many green photosites as red or blue, so it does seem logical that green would pick up more luminance noise." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:32:30.973" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1165" PostId="236" Text="The latest version of ICE simply gives up on me before attempting to open any photos stating that the photos may not be similar.  It used to work well." CreationDate="2010-07-26T00:47:42.893" UserId="20" />
  <row Id="1166" PostId="1173" Text="I own (and use) Cactus V2s, and have experienced similar issues: they misfire maybe 1/4 of the time, and they wouldn't work at all in my church (which, I suspect, is the fault of the wireless microphones…). HOWEVER, one transmitter an three receivers cost less than $100, so I can't really complain — I got them to experiment with off-camera flash, and they let me do just that." CreationDate="2010-07-26T02:54:11.367" UserId="515" />
  <row Id="1167" PostId="622" Text="+1 for the Eneloops. Expensive, but they give decent cycle times and seem to hold their charge well." CreationDate="2010-07-26T02:58:10.127" UserId="515" />
  <row Id="1168" PostId="1324" Text="Thanks, @John, for that link to a very interesting post!" CreationDate="2010-07-26T03:00:27.063" UserId="414" />
  <row Id="1169" PostId="1394" Text="and a low quality polariser will throw off the colors a bit." CreationDate="2010-07-26T06:27:05.773" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1170" PostId="32" Score="2" Text="I've gone through the same transition, I was finding processing raw images was taking a lot of time that was better spent out taking photos." CreationDate="2010-07-26T08:05:05.540" UserId="552" />
  <row Id="1171" PostId="1085" Text="I like the idea of taking their mind off the photo by giving them something to do, like juming in the air.  I will definitely try this one!  Thanks +1." CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:08:55.233" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1172" PostId="1058" Score="3" Text="+1 for &quot;Try to look like you don't hate me&quot;!  Love it!" CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:09:33.063" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1173" PostId="1182" Text="+1 for the open environment tip.  Thank you!" CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:10:13.607" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1174" PostId="1152" Text="+! for &quot;Be kind&quot;  ... although I'm not sure I like &quot;bedside manner&quot; - makes me sound like a doctor!  ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:11:12.107" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1175" PostId="1041" Text="good advice.  all stuff to add to my toolbox! thanks :)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:12:25.537" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1177" PostId="1421" Score="2" Text="@jrista: Well, it's rather that the green channel has almost the same amount of noise. The sensor has more green diodes to catch more luminance information, this also helps a bit against noise, but not very much. The green channel has higher contrast than the red and blue simply because 100% green is brigher than 100% red or blue, and the higher contrast means that the green noise is more visible." CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:27:15.393" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1178" PostId="893" Text="I got the same, I'm not sure in what country it does play. I've seen it on either Discovery Channel or National Geographic though. " CreationDate="2010-07-26T09:39:26.177" UserId="524" />
  <row Id="1179" PostId="1432" Score="1" Text="What about making it explicit on the question that this is about the Coolpix S70? Or maybe even on the tags as this may be helpful for other point and shoot cameras." CreationDate="2010-07-26T10:05:50.317" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="1180" PostId="1404" Text="Reid's suggestion would work as long as you make right after the shot you want to subtract from. Otherwise thermal conditions will vary and therefore the thermal noise will change." CreationDate="2010-07-26T10:09:19.940" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="1181" PostId="1436" Score="3" Text="Do you know what you want to take photos of? Can you edit your question, and then I'll edit my answer accordingly. Not knowing is just as valid, but some vague ideas will help." CreationDate="2010-07-26T10:10:31.670" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1182" PostId="1283" Text="Thanks for letting me know. I'm a 3GS user, so I won't be able to make use of the App, sadly, but here must be an opportunity for a great solution to capturing sweep-style panoramics on all iPhones. For now though, I'll keep using AutoStitch:&#xA;http://www.iphonebroadcast.co.uk/?tag=autostitch-panorama" CreationDate="2010-07-26T10:10:37.427" UserId="436" />
  <row Id="1183" PostId="1438" Score="1" Text="I bought a second hand DSLR with two lens last year, so far I've only had call to use the 18-55 since I mostly take pictures of landscapes, street scenes and people." CreationDate="2010-07-26T10:49:40.697" UserId="430" />
  <row Id="1184" PostId="1220" Score="1" Text="I guess you're now able to mark your answer as accepted." CreationDate="2010-07-26T10:57:27.080" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1185" PostId="1437" Score="6" Text="+1 for fast prime. Get a good 50mm lens, and use it exclusively. It'll be cheap, light, versatile, and high quality. Once you've got the hang of it you'll hopefully have a better idea of what sort of shots you want to take." CreationDate="2010-07-26T11:00:38.357" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1186" PostId="1255" Text="+1 for ffmpeg I've used this in the past with great results." CreationDate="2010-07-26T11:26:56.720" UserId="430" />
  <row Id="1187" PostId="1087" Text="Ah yes, lost my thoughts there :)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T11:28:41.570" UserId="306" />
  <row Id="1188" PostId="1135" Text="@Carles Hence it'd be nice to include the keypoints, so you don't have to read all of it to get a flavour of the ideas in it." CreationDate="2010-07-26T11:42:35.870" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1189" PostId="1444" Score="1" Text="What did you do when you tried first time?" CreationDate="2010-07-26T12:07:00.080" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1190" PostId="1437" Score="2" Text="+1 for the 50mm 1.8 without it, you'll wonder why you got a DSLR they won't have that 'SLR Look' without a shallow depth of field'&#xA;&#xA;I'd suggest getting the 18-55kit, so save a few dollars, because there are times (group shot a table etc.) that the 50 is too long for." CreationDate="2010-07-26T13:05:25.417" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="1191" PostId="1450" Score="2" Text="So when it comes out you may be able to pick up the D90 at a bargain price as shops clear their stock of the old model. I did this buying my Canon 40D once the 50D was out and got it for less than the 500D." CreationDate="2010-07-26T13:07:10.373" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1192" PostId="1437" Text="Assuming we don't get any more details, I was going to say I got the 18-55 kit lens, which provides a good range of focal lengths whilst learning what all the buttons did, then I got the 50 f/1.8 and left that bolted to the front of the camera for a few months. It really made me think and work, and improved my photos no end." CreationDate="2010-07-26T13:20:06.957" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1193" PostId="1459" Score="1" Text="The camera still applies all the post-processing to the RAW file, it just saves it in a reversible way.  To demonstrate this, you can put your camera (in RAW) in black and white mode, take a photo, and you'd get a black and white image even though your camera took a color photo, then converted it. This common demo is used to show the flexibility of RAW because you can open the B&amp;W RAW file in software and change the camera mode to &quot;Normal&quot; and get the color version back.  If it was shot in JPG, you'd lose the color version." CreationDate="2010-07-26T13:57:39.690" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="1194" PostId="1459" Score="1" Text="Full disclosure:  I didn't remember in time to edit:  In RAW not all post-processing is applied, but color enhancement and correction like white balance is.  Things like sharpness and noise reduction are not applied.  Sorry for the double comment." CreationDate="2010-07-26T14:09:35.950" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="1195" PostId="1457" Text="Yes, I did purchase an extra battery, and the battery grip is an original Nikon MB-D200 that I bought second hand.  When the battery grip is connected to the body, the body uses the battery to brighten the display, even when the camera is switched off.  Which means I have to open the battery grip and remove the batteries when the camera is not in use, otherwise I'll come back to a dead camera.  &#xA;&#xA;So the bottom line is that I don't use the grip much. And sometimes I forget to bring or charge that extra battery. " CreationDate="2010-07-26T14:11:28.927" UserId="563" />
  <row Id="1196" PostId="1065" Score="1" Text="Technically, this is incorrect. The zone system has 11 zones, from 0 to 10 (not 9) with 5 in the middle. " CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:00:52.363" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1197" PostId="1459" Text="+1 this answer doesn't deserve a demotion at all. The camera only processes a small jpeg as a thumbnail to display to the user, it doesn't process the original information when using RAW." CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:03:05.837" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="1198" PostId="310" Score="1" Text="+1 for the Ansel Adams quotation. My favourite." CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:07:15.313" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1199" PostId="1460" Score="2" Text="Adobe's attempt to standardize RAW formats: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Negative_(file_format)&#xA;&#xA;Also, RAW files are often loslessly compressed." CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:13:31.573" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1200" PostId="870" Text="Ooh look I can now post comments! Thanks to Edd for linking to my site, and to Matt and Hamish for your comments. I'm open to suggestions for other articles to write, if you have any. " CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:18:56.803" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1201" PostId="1460" Text="@Eruditass I've updated my answer to include that. Thanks." CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:28:44.423" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1202" PostId="1460" Score="1" Text="The DNG format is often compressed better than a camera's native RAW format, so if storage space is a consideration then that's worth bearing in mind. Anecdotally, this seems to be less of an issue with newer camera models." CreationDate="2010-07-26T15:42:01.590" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1203" PostId="917" Score="1" Text="To expand on Bobby's comment, many 35mm lenses display mild barrel distortion, it's probably better to stick to a 50mm and take a couple of steps back." CreationDate="2010-07-26T17:18:32.753" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1204" PostId="1437" Score="1" Text="I think the 50mm recommendation as a first lens is very questionable; noone would recommend an 85mm as a first lens on full-frame.  If you want a fixed lens as your first, stick with the normal focal length for the format: around 24-35 depending on the camera, see here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1104/what-focal-length-would-be-the-equivalent-of-the-standard-55mm-on-aps-c-cameras/1309#1309" CreationDate="2010-07-26T17:23:56.693" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1205" PostId="1186" Score="2" Text="http://gizmodo.com/5596508/laser-light-show-vs-dslr-sensor" CreationDate="2010-07-26T17:28:04.940" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1206" PostId="1065" Text="Sure, corrected, thanks." CreationDate="2010-07-26T17:45:20.323" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1207" PostId="1048" Text="@matt - where did your comment with bythom link go?" CreationDate="2010-07-26T18:00:56.517" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1208" PostId="924" Text="no, it's different, as I said in the question" CreationDate="2010-07-26T18:01:01.820" UserId="68" />
  <row Id="1209" PostId="1065" Text="I updated my answer according to matt smillie's comment regarding light meters' calibration. Thanks matt. I don't know where the comment disappeared." CreationDate="2010-07-26T18:07:47.610" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1210" PostId="1051" Text="And the downvote was why?" CreationDate="2010-07-26T18:08:25.380" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1211" PostId="97" Text="@Justin, yes the noise level is directly proportional to the temperature of the sensor." CreationDate="2010-07-26T18:24:22.430" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1212" PostId="183" Text="Overexposing the picture will reduce the noise, but will also increase the motion blur (motion of camera and/or subject). Taking a burst of photos then detecting the motion and averaging them (minus the motion's effects) will give you the same affect, but hopefully minus the blur (if motion detection and reduction is good)." CreationDate="2010-07-26T18:27:25.497" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1213" PostId="1065" Score="4" Text="@Karel is 18% because the eye see logarithm and the 18% is for the eye the middle gray, the middle point between white and black" CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:01:53.600" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="1214" PostId="1048" Text="@Karel - I made an error that made the comment quite misleading &amp; didn't notice in time to edit it.  Thought it best to delete it &amp; add a longer answer (thanks for including it in yours, too)." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:11:26.777" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1215" PostId="611" Text="With RAW, many edits are non-destructive. For example, shifting the histogram. That is a processing activity applied to the RAW data when it is visualized...it shifts the visual representation, but does not change the base information. RAW is raw, it doesn't change. Same goes for things like saturation, contrast, white balance. These are all non-destructive edits as they simply change the interpretation of the data, not the actual data itself." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:15:00.683" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1216" PostId="1437" Text="I personally recommend a 35mm 1.8 as a 'first' lens, I think 50 is a little restrictive for creative angles, especially when trying to shoot something from close to the ground. Agree with getting a prime and leaving it on, though. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:16:55.717" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="1217" PostId="183" Text="Taking a burst of photos and averaging them is one technique to reduce noise. Exposing to the right is a different technique, and each has obviously its advantages and disadvantages. Lowering your ISO also yields a slower shutter speed in the same condiitons. Everything's a balance, and the photographer needs to be aware of all the consequences." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:29:11.633" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1218" PostId="159" Text="Personally, I think averaging multiple images is an awful technique." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:29:36.950" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1219" PostId="1460" Text="I don't think DNG is the topic of discussion in this question. " CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:33:12.653" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1220" PostId="1051" Text="See comments at the top of the question re: 18% and meters." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:35:00.230" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1221" PostId="1479" Text="I looked at that, but if I want to keep the time portion of the capture timestamp, is there any way I can use that dialog (except for executing the timezone shift +24 hours 30 times or so to move them one day forward until I get to the right date.)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:39:14.120" UserId="568" />
  <row Id="1222" PostId="1478" Text="I tried a couple, including Exifer, and I couldn't find any lingering dates in June on any of the photos." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:39:45.117" UserId="568" />
  <row Id="1223" PostId="1477" Text="I will look at that, this is a one-time operation so doesn't have to be pretty, I just want to avoid manually shifting/editing one photo at a time." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:40:11.980" UserId="568" />
  <row Id="1224" PostId="611" Score="1" Text="That's all good and well until you actually want to do something with the changes you've made. Once you get out of raw and actually try to use what you did (like saving as JPEG or TIF to send to the printers) you HAVE TO apply the changes and lose information. If you leave the picture in RAW format then you are right, but I don't know who would do that in the end." CreationDate="2010-07-26T19:52:52.590" UserId="32" />
  <row Id="1225" PostId="1135" Text="This is a living article that evolves as new lenses are introduced (which is happening more often these days than in years past), so including a static list would be inappropriate because a recommendation today could be invalid 6 months from now (which would have been true with the 70-200 f/2.8 lenses with IS/VR from Canon and Nikon). &#xA;&#xA;The article is long because it would be pointless for me to just give a list of my recommendations with no data to support how a reader can make their own educated - not opinionated - purchase decision. I do have the table of recommendations at a glance." CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:08:17.873" UserId="356" />
  <row Id="1226" PostId="1489" Text="How does the script know about the lightning in the first place?" CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:14:08.420" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1227" PostId="1051" Text="@matt My answer refers to TTL metering though (after all, if you where measuring the incident light, you wouldn't need an 18% grey card)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:15:12.100" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1228" PostId="1489" Text="Maybe it can detect sudden increase of light on the sensor." CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:17:06.400" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1229" PostId="1489" Text="@Karel: clarified. @che's right." CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:37:27.880" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1230" PostId="1461" Text="I have been to the shop and the D90 does feel more robust than the D5000 though it is significantly bigger and 200g heaver&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:41:10.087" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="1231" PostId="1490" Score="2" Text="+1 for dark background. I tried photographing rain yesterday and the two areas where the rain showed up well were against a dark background and where it splashed off a railing." CreationDate="2010-07-26T20:43:42.403" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="1232" PostId="1057" Text="@Aristos: I don't quite understand your question.  Basically, if you make your photos B&amp;W, and took the average amount of light across all of them, you'd end up with 18% gray.  (More white than black - since we usually photograph lit subjects)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T21:48:23.477" UserId="244" />
  <row Id="1234" PostId="1485" Text="Thanks for the insight. Part of the issue might be my f/4 100-400mm lens, although it does have @ 3-stop IS. Its not fast, but not really slow either. The aperture doesn't give me much leeway to overexpose and drown out noise, however. I have a nice Gitzo tripod and ball head. A Canon 5DII would probably help a lot in the area of noise, but its beyond my budget for now." CreationDate="2010-07-26T22:44:31.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1235" PostId="1426" Text="I've mostly been evaluating my more recent prints, more so than the on-screen photos. For 99% of my prints, ISO 400 or less is great, and ISO 800 is not too bad, although clear blue sky and lots of green do tend to show up pretty grainy on smoother/glossier papers. The problem is pretty much non-existent on some of the more fine-art type papers I've tried recently, however. Based on all the great answers I've received, I'm boiling this all down to me being the `overly picky perfectionist first-born`, and leaving it at that. ;P" CreationDate="2010-07-26T22:48:46.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1236" PostId="1492" Text="A quick question about continuous shooting mode...if you use a mirror lockup setting, does shooting in continuous mode leave the mirror up so long as the shutter button is locked down? Or does the mirror flip every exposure?" CreationDate="2010-07-26T22:52:37.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1237" PostId="1426" Score="1" Text="@jrista, perhaps you need to go medium-format. Do you have $40-60,000 burning a hole in your pocket? :)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T22:57:27.047" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1238" PostId="1446" Text="I think Canon finally made a comparable lens to the Nikkor 18-200mm lens. For a first lens I might avoid the 18-200mm on the basis of cost... if you never shoot wide or long (or both really) it's a lot money that could be better spent on something lighter and faster. The do-it-all lens compromises in many ways but I find the versatility absolutely invaluable. If you are the active, hiking, hand-held, available light type, consider the 18-200mm. If you are the tripod or studio type, or you shoot, say, just telephoto subjects, avoid the 18-200mm and buy cheaper, no compromise lenses." CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:06:21.463" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1239" PostId="1439" Text="Another bad thing about the 18-200mm for a beginner is it makes it too easy to be lazy with composition instead of going wider and getting closer, the temptation is to zoom in. Learning how to compose creatively and get more out of an 18-55mm or even a 50mm prime lens would be a better way to start, plus it's cheaper and 70%-90% of the time you won't need the telephoto parts you thought you needed. I find that I shoot a _lot_ on the 18mm end of my 18-200mm. (Although when animals spring in to view it's wonderful to have a 200mm lens on my camera _right then_)." CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:10:52.783" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1240" PostId="1475" Score="3" Text="Is this why photographers tend to wear black, to avoid adding stray light to the scene?" CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:13:55.493" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1241" PostId="1492" Score="1" Text="@jrista: good question. I guess this depends on the camera. Camera shake from the mirror tends to have rather little effect when exposure times come up towards 10 seconds and above, so I never really bothered about it." CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:16:52.787" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1242" PostId="1051" Text="@Rowland All I can suggest is reading Hogan's article &amp; references more carefully; he's not talking about incident meters either." CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:24:40.297" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1243" PostId="615" Score="1" Text="If your camera's LCD color balance is poor and you can't trust it, why are you shooting digital. (Or why don't you get a better camera that you can trust.) Viewing conditions, well that's a good point." CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:26:31.557" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1244" PostId="1485" Text="@Karel: a bigger sensor would make a big difference for noise (if that's what you mean by &quot;good camera&quot;)" CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:37:55.640" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1245" PostId="1492" Score="1" Text="@Frederik: I wasn't so much concerned about shake as I was about the extra time to flip up the mirror. My Canon 450D has an annoyingly slow shutter flip up time, and when I've tried to take shots of lightning, I've either missed the shot, or did not get a decent shot, because the mirror flipped up every exposure. However, I never thought of using mirror lockup and continuous shooting together...that might solve the problem." CreationDate="2010-07-26T23:48:15.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1246" PostId="1426" Text="@Reid: HA, I totally wish. I would love to have an H4D-60. ;P" CreationDate="2010-07-27T00:53:02.403" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1248" PostId="850" Score="3" Text="Agree, most photographers keep their great glass and upgrade bodies, which become outdated rather quickly." CreationDate="2010-07-27T03:27:52.277" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1249" PostId="271" Text="For me, the most important distinction is DoF control and the possibilities it unlocks for creativity." CreationDate="2010-07-27T03:55:20.617" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1250" PostId="133" Text="I believe there's an option to embed the original RAW file in DNG in case you want to extract it later.&#xA;&#xA;However, if you camera doesn't support writing compressed DNG natively, I'd probably wait.  &#xA;&#xA;Otherwise, I'd convert to be future proof." CreationDate="2010-07-27T03:58:39.087" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1251" PostId="787" Text="I believe there's an option to embed the original RAW file in DNG in case you want to extract it later. However, if you camera doesn't support writing compressed DNG natively, I'd probably wait. Otherwise, I'd convert to be future proof." CreationDate="2010-07-27T03:59:27.183" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1252" PostId="1057" Text="@Reed - see the Hogan article mentioned in the accepted answer re: 18% and meters.  I think you also misunderstand the nature of the '18%,' it's the amount of light reflected from the card, not the brightness of the image. rgb(46,46,46) is much too dark." CreationDate="2010-07-27T04:39:57.210" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1253" PostId="1498" Text="Thank you for your answer, but can you explain more about &quot;bells and whistles&quot; and &quot;jello motion&quot;? Also didn't you mean low price/performance ratio, as it's listed in pros?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T06:01:20.510" UserId="578" />
  <row Id="1254" PostId="1498" Text="No, I meant low price to high performance, which is a high ratio." CreationDate="2010-07-27T06:22:51.590" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1255" PostId="1485" Text="I only have experience with one big sensor, but collective internet wisdom tells us there is a big difference between the full-frames also (trying not to go into the brandnames :). 5DII would certainly be a step forward, but it's still a resolution oriented camera." CreationDate="2010-07-27T07:25:10.710" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1256" PostId="1492" Text="@jrista: ok, then I understand. I tried it out with my camera (a Nikon D300) and as far as I can tell it doesn't allow me to combine mirror lockup with continuous shooting. So the mirror flaps for each frame." CreationDate="2010-07-27T07:58:24.127" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1257" PostId="1459" Text="Thanks, @Rezlaj ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-27T09:00:07.097" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1258" PostId="1498" Text="Isn't the depth of field shallower on a DSLR? I thought that was part of the appeal to pros - larger senser size requiring longer focal lengths -&gt; shallowed DoF." CreationDate="2010-07-27T09:18:30.273" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1259" PostId="1256" Text="Was that a fast shutter and a lightning strike?! very clever..." CreationDate="2010-07-27T11:21:50.127" UserId="315" />
  <row Id="1260" PostId="1503" Score="4" Text="Possibly more useful, and marketable, would be to offer a service to track where &quot;your&quot; photos have been (re)used, potentially without licence." CreationDate="2010-07-27T11:58:17.957" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1261" PostId="1504" Score="4" Text="I'd recommend making this community wiki since it is designed as a list." CreationDate="2010-07-27T12:28:29.410" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1262" PostId="1506" Text="I wish the same for Olympus OM4ti" CreationDate="2010-07-27T13:35:53.210" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="1263" PostId="1509" Text="that makes me a bit sad. The camera is 40 years old and worked flawlessly without a glitch for both my father and I." CreationDate="2010-07-27T13:41:18.003" UserId="587" />
  <row Id="1264" PostId="1509" Score="4" Text="Keep using it then! A lot of people still shoot film, and it's an easy process to scan film, if you want digital output." CreationDate="2010-07-27T13:52:14.670" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1265" PostId="1505" Score="1" Text="Which mobile platform are you using? " CreationDate="2010-07-27T13:56:28.123" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1266" PostId="47" Score="7" Text="Just to clarify, the f1.4 is 2/3rds stops faster than the f1.8, so that means 2/3rds stop faster shutter speed.&#xA;&#xA;With most viewfinders, lenses above a certain speed (not sure, like f2.8?) are imperceivable in brightness in the viewfinder due to the way the light is split between the AF sensor and the viewfinder.  &#xA;&#xA;Sharpness definitely depends on the brand.  E.g. the Pentax 50mm f1.7 is reportedly sharper and more contrasty than the Pentax 50mm f1.4 at common apertures until around f2.8.  Read reviews: fredmiranda, slrgear, photozone.de.  For vintage: pentaxforums, mflenses, manualfocus" CreationDate="2010-07-27T13:58:07.883" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1267" PostId="1520" Score="1" Text="Good initative! Question about mainaining the list; should edit your original post or simply post each new site suggestion in a separate answer? Not sure which one would be best. If we post one site per answer people can use the voting mechanism to indicate &quot;quality&quot; of the site (it doesn't affect rep points since it's community wiki anyway)." CreationDate="2010-07-27T14:15:33.600" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1268" PostId="1520" Text="I'd say one site/post, because it does still take some rep to edit community wiki posts, and for the voting as you described." CreationDate="2010-07-27T14:21:08.813" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1269" PostId="1516" Text="I think I instinctively knew that, but the concept was bugging the back of the brain enough for me to decide to post the question and see if I was just mentally missing something in the morning." CreationDate="2010-07-27T14:33:58.827" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1270" PostId="1512" Score="1" Text="I couldn't find anything beyond evidence of what appears to be an abandoned project to do that." CreationDate="2010-07-27T14:35:40.273" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1271" PostId="1501" Text="Doesn't autofocus work in video mode? I haven't put my hands on a video DSLR, so I am not sure." CreationDate="2010-07-27T15:11:19.223" UserId="578" />
  <row Id="1272" PostId="1505" Text="I'm mostly interested in Nokia, but hopefully others get some good links also." CreationDate="2010-07-27T16:30:33.090" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1273" PostId="1498" Text="@Nick: Sorry, that's what I meant. By greater, I meant greater options, not wider." CreationDate="2010-07-27T16:42:10.800" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1274" PostId="1501" Text="It does work on a dslr, but imo it's not like what you get with the handycams." CreationDate="2010-07-27T16:43:01.737" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1275" PostId="1457" Text="I am not sure what you meant by &quot;brighten the display, even when the camera is switched off&quot;. Did you mean the top display showing the number of exposure left on the card?&#xA;&#xA;There was a period of time when I did not use my camera for almost a month, and when I picked it back up it still had 80% battery life in it (not dead). " CreationDate="2010-07-27T16:50:15.457" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1276" PostId="1517" Text="+1 for crumpler." CreationDate="2010-07-27T16:54:25.527" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1277" PostId="928" Text="A Sound Blimp sort of defeats the purpose of an SLR, doesn't it?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T17:05:27.443" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1278" PostId="220" Score="1" Text="Squeeze the shutter...." CreationDate="2010-07-27T17:28:10.887" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="1279" PostId="1520" Text="I envisioned one wiki post, but voting and individual comments on each site is pretty valuable as well and I like that idea." CreationDate="2010-07-27T17:41:45.403" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1280" PostId="928" Text="You can still dampen the sound.  K-7 vs A900 for reference&#xA;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SzFL1FoheM" CreationDate="2010-07-27T17:49:47.527" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1281" PostId="1035" Text="+1 for composition.  Even though the examples cited, rule of thirds and the golden ratio, have a mathematical guideline, the general topic of composition is more of an art than a technique." CreationDate="2010-07-27T19:04:56.203" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1282" PostId="1529" Text="And some diaper bags ARE pretty (but maybe a bit too girly for your taste)" CreationDate="2010-07-27T19:18:49.437" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="1283" PostId="1501" Text="On Canon 5D Mk II it does work, but when I tried it it spent most of the time hunting with a speed of drugged snail. The only usable component of what I was trying to film was audio." CreationDate="2010-07-27T19:57:54.723" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1284" PostId="1523" Text="+1 for The Digital Picture. It should be noted that he has started doing Nikon reviews now as well, so it is no longer just for Canon (although there is definitely more canon stuff there.)" CreationDate="2010-07-27T20:13:18.103" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1285" PostId="1499" Text="Could I suggest adding 'digital' to the question somehow, anticipating that we might get questions about real dodging/burning eventually?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T20:21:31.453" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1286" PostId="1539" Text="+1. Thom's reviews are superb. He talks a lot about what a lens is really like and how it can (or can't) be useful to you in real use, rather than spewing tons of numbers." CreationDate="2010-07-27T20:25:12.303" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1287" PostId="1529" Text="Diaper bag -&gt; any bag that's big enough to hold your gear! Domke inserts are definitely the key." CreationDate="2010-07-27T20:26:55.077" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1288" PostId="1410" Score="2" Text="Recommending something that you acknowledge might cause problems itself might cause problems." CreationDate="2010-07-27T20:41:11.127" UserId="350" />
  <row Id="1289" PostId="159" Score="1" Text="If the burst of images is fast enough and you weigh a motion detection algorithm in the averaging the results should be good. If you increase the exposure time then you basically doing the same thing, only the burst it continuous and automatically averaged and you have no way to tell if something moved and compensate." CreationDate="2010-07-27T21:09:22.807" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1290" PostId="619" Text="I couldn't figure out how to make pictures link, so drag them to separate tab for 100% view." CreationDate="2010-07-27T21:19:58.483" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1291" PostId="1520" Score="2" Text="@Eruditass: I actually think they can be combined. We could have the original post link to the individual answers. That way there is an &quot;index&quot; that is easy to navigate, and there is also a &quot;rating mechanism&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-27T21:37:55.837" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1292" PostId="1543" Text="Yeah, a tradeoff with portability sounds right.  My own guess has to do with power efficiency - a hotshoe flash needs to take charge from a set of batteries and somehow put enough light on the subject to expose it properly.  Focusing the light where it needs to go helps avoid wasted light." CreationDate="2010-07-27T21:38:38.943" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1293" PostId="1516" Score="5" Text="Sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast." CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:08:54.070" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1294" PostId="1548" Score="2" Text="I heard you had a Hasselblad, how's that working out?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:11:56.607" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="1295" PostId="1504" Text="Are you worried about &quot;flashy&quot; in terms of just preferring to be inconspicuous/normal-looking, or actually worried about theft?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:26:30.857" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1296" PostId="619" Text="@Karel - two ways: if you're using the new photo-page beta, there should be a &quot;grab the HTML&quot; under the &quot;share this&quot; menu on the photo page, very quick.  The more general way via markdown would be this: ![Alt text for screen-readers](jpg URL) -- see http://photo.stackexchange.com/editing-help" CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:38:56.967" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1297" PostId="1499" Text="@matt: good point. done." CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:41:57.620" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1298" PostId="1547" Score="2" Text="Do you have any example images you could post that you think are losing highlight data?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:49:07.933" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1299" PostId="1547" Score="1" Text="Also, what's your workflow? Are you shooting raw?" CreationDate="2010-07-27T23:58:41.813" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1300" PostId="917" Score="1" Text="More important than geometric distortion (which can easily be corrected in post), IMHO, is perspective distortion.  " CreationDate="2010-07-28T00:01:05.007" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1302" PostId="805" Text="I don't think it's a slam, but I still think it's incorrect; &quot;professional&quot; cameras are (and always have been) purchased just as often by wealthy amateurs.  The &quot;professional/consumer&quot; axis is much more a marketing phenomenon than a useful hallmark of which camera to buy." CreationDate="2010-07-28T00:32:41.807" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1303" PostId="1481" Score="2" Text="If there's a myth that deserves to be proclaimed in &quot;the largest typeface possible&quot;, it's that Thom Hogan's article has any basis in fact. The claim that: &quot;This is the ANSI standard&quot; falls right on the border between misleading and outright false. " CreationDate="2010-07-28T00:40:04.787" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1304" PostId="805" Text="From the body of my post re: 1 Series &quot;I have seen hobbyist shooters with 1 series bodies (and certainly if money was no object I would have a closet full of 'em).&quot; I also disagree, professional means exactly that. Designed for use by people who make a living in photography. I'd buy the marketing argument, if there wasn't such a huge discrepancy between the 1 series in terms of features, and all other canon bodies." CreationDate="2010-07-28T00:41:13.867" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1305" PostId="1549" Text="This is a great explanation, but I think the argument is circular in that you assume sunny/16, but vary the illuminance to 'normal daylight'.  Seems like it shouldn't be necessary to redefine that term.  What about assuming any fixed exposure: EV = lg(IS/C) (incident) = lg(LS/K) (reflected) =&gt; L/I = K/C?  R should be derivable from L/I &amp; constant factor, hence the implied reflectance of the standard directly from the ranges for K/C in the standard?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T01:25:14.960" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1306" PostId="1551" Score="1" Text="An excellent point -- though I'd add that 3rd party lenses (Sigma, Tamron, etc.) generally don't hold their value nearly as well as a Canon, Nikkor, Pentax, etc. At a guess, a Zeiss for a Canon or Nikon would probably be an exception to this rule." CreationDate="2010-07-28T01:29:22.547" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1307" PostId="1549" Text="Tracked it down: the ANSI standard he's likely referring to was ANSI PH3.49-1971, superseded by (but not radically different to) ISO 2720-1974." CreationDate="2010-07-28T01:44:59.217" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1308" PostId="1554" Score="1" Text="Heck, go one step farther and be inspired by bad pictures.  A photo doesn't have to be good to have a part of it you like." CreationDate="2010-07-28T02:38:54.033" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1309" PostId="976" Text="FWIW, I just verified this in my own install. It works. Beats me why Kodak ProPhoto RGB is the default (it was sRGB in version 5.0)." CreationDate="2010-07-28T02:44:42.227" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1310" PostId="1540" Text="Thanks down voters... guess you don't like suggestions about cameras that work with your existing lens collections.  If it counts for much I tried doing a search for 35mm digital backs and could not find any.  (While I have seen some in the past.)   Of course the backs I saw were 1MP and that is to my point about the you won't be happy with the quality of the photos." CreationDate="2010-07-28T03:00:51.047" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1311" PostId="1549" Text="@matt: you could be right about the standard, but frankly, I kind of doubt he had any specific standard in mind, especially one that had been obsolete for nearly 30 years when he wrote the article." CreationDate="2010-07-28T03:42:25.780" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1312" PostId="1549" Text="@matt: I hadn't considered comparing the results for incident and reflected readings to determine the reflectance range. It sounds reasonable, but I'll have to reread the standard to figure out what it comes to." CreationDate="2010-07-28T04:05:37.080" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1313" PostId="1138" Text="+1 Nice article." CreationDate="2010-07-28T05:18:51.237" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="1315" PostId="1547" Text="RAW, of course, added a link to the comparison pictures (in german)." CreationDate="2010-07-28T05:54:26.650" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1316" PostId="1548" Text="The highlights in the histogram had been not at the right, but about 2/3rds of a stop down from the right edge of the histogram, to make sure I didn't blow them." CreationDate="2010-07-28T06:07:12.193" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1317" PostId="1550" Text="I shot in RAW and made sure not to blow any highlights, even underexposed the image a bit.&#xA;The monitor is a good point, but I'd think my Eizo Colorgraphics is quite good in this regard, especially since I use the recommended brightness of 100cd/m²." CreationDate="2010-07-28T06:13:41.650" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1318" PostId="1558" Score="4" Text="Are you asking about Lightroom or Aperture?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T06:58:10.920" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1319" PostId="1555" Text="One solution seems to be the answer to the question &quot;which blogger clients will take images as arguments?&quot; [A: I have no idea.] You might try this one on SuperUser, too." CreationDate="2010-07-28T07:04:19.843" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1320" PostId="1547" Score="1" Text="The link says: &quot;Du bist nicht angemeldet oder du hast keine Rechte diese Seite zu betreten.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-28T08:18:16.157" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1321" PostId="97" Text="@Justin &amp; Danny: The electrical leakage in sensors (that cause hot pixels) doubles for every 8 deg C increase in temperature (source: http://books.google.com/books?id=Agho6QnsrzsC&amp;pg=RA1-PA131&amp;dq=%22hot+pixels%22+dark+noise+subtraction&amp;lr=&amp;as_brr=3&amp;ei=HGr7SManHI2YMuWhoKIL#v=onepage&amp;q=%22hot%20pixels%22%20dark%20noise%20subtraction&amp;f=false). However you will only notice this when you use very high ISO settings or very long exposure times." CreationDate="2010-07-28T09:13:43.457" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1322" PostId="159" Score="3" Text="The averaging technique is widely used in the astrophotography field. Photographers take dozens (some even hunderds) of pictures and average them using varying techniques. They often shoot dark frames and flat frames to minimize various sources of noise: http://ccdastrophotography.com/article.php?id=2. " CreationDate="2010-07-28T09:20:40.013" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1323" PostId="928" Score="1" Text="That Sound Blimp looks hilarious! :)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T09:23:32.853" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1324" PostId="1547" Text="@che, thats what I feared. Sadly I don't have the user rights to copy the pictures somewhere else." CreationDate="2010-07-28T09:27:27.617" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1325" PostId="1564" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/384/what-blogs-should-i-be-following-if-i-am-learning-photography" CreationDate="2010-07-28T10:11:36.217" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1326" PostId="917" Text="I don't seem to have edit yet, so in the second last sentence &quot;through&quot; should be &quot;throw&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-28T10:33:33.717" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1327" PostId="1564" Text="Yep, couldn't find the other one - thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-28T10:51:04.650" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1328" PostId="226" Score="1" Text="With regard to zooming, what I do is take a shot at the crop I think is right, then back it out a step and take another." CreationDate="2010-07-28T11:09:14.793" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1329" PostId="1282" Score="1" Text="@jrista: 1x.com explicitly mentions that you don't only have to be good, but also need to fit certain style and vision the editors have about a site. So not being accepted there does not necesarrily mean you don't have vision. It can be that yours is different from what people at 1x.com like." CreationDate="2010-07-28T11:13:37.030" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1330" PostId="1572" Text="Never saw snapsort before. Like it." CreationDate="2010-07-28T11:33:46.000" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1331" PostId="419" Text="Bought and seen the course, just great!!" CreationDate="2010-07-28T11:44:14.127" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1332" PostId="1576" Text="Interesting question that I will follow closely, since my oldest daughter has started to show an interest. Should probably be a community wiki though." CreationDate="2010-07-28T11:53:05.717" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1333" PostId="1576" Score="1" Text="Is this on the level of teaching a class, or how to get a friend to take better pictures (that is, your friend wants you to teach him to take better pictures.) If the second, I'd say get a digital camera and experiment (playing with it is just like experimentation, except with experimentation you take notes, mentally or otherwise.) Then you can help explain why some techniques/things work and others don't." CreationDate="2010-07-28T12:04:32.480" UserId="568" />
  <row Id="1334" PostId="1576" Text="@Fredrik, you are right, changed to wiki.&#xA;@Lasse, it is about teaching. To tell someone to experiment is not really teaching others, its more like learning, won't you say?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T12:17:38.287" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1335" PostId="1576" Text="Yes, I know, but I've had friends asking me to teach them things, particularly in using computers, and I've often resorted to give them a fallback route and told them to experiment. But I agree, it's not teaching at all." CreationDate="2010-07-28T12:29:12.383" UserId="568" />
  <row Id="1336" PostId="1581" Text="But if I buy a few quick release plates for my cams I'm hosed when I want a new ball head, not?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T12:52:47.797" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1337" PostId="917" Text="@tolomea Oh! Ouch! Apologies for that. You'll get edit abilities at 1k rep." CreationDate="2010-07-28T13:09:54.593" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="1338" PostId="1581" Text="@Sam: you need to be careful and see if the existing plates fit on the new ball head. As long as you stick with one brand you'll be quite safe." CreationDate="2010-07-28T13:19:22.687" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1339" PostId="1038" Text="Film does prevent you from being able to see your mistakes in the field and then try another composition. I have found this immediate feed back very helpful. And it's much easier to correct exposure mistakes in the field then to throw an entire roll of film away because it is either under, over, or even double exposed." CreationDate="2010-07-28T13:56:48.433" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1340" PostId="995" Text="I don't shoot in RAW (I don't want to spend my time in post processing.) but I agree with everything else you said." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:00:49.687" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1341" PostId="1566" Score="1" Text="I use Picasa and email to post to blogger." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:07:20.840" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1342" PostId="1504" Text="I'm not worried about theft.  It's more about not attracting attention." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:12:03.420" UserId="113" />
  <row Id="1343" PostId="1579" Text="Discussion questions like this aren't really suitable for the Stack Exchange system as there's no chance of there being one acceptable answer. If you'd asked for the advantages of System A over System B then that would have been a better question." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:12:56.083" UserId="441" />
  <row Id="1344" PostId="894" Score="2" Text="The only reason that digital cameras need modified for take IR photos is because the sensor is extremely sensitive to IR light.  This is the reason for the greenish filter over the sensor instead of the camera.  This filter blocks IR light and is removed (and sometimes replaced with a filter that only allows IR) on modified cameras." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:31:14.137" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1345" PostId="1576" Text="@Lasse and @Sam - I disagree, telling them how the exposure triangle works is instruction, showing them how to experiment with it is teaching. When they experiment, then they will know." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:33:08.703" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1346" PostId="186" Score="1" Text="Lenses already available is definitely #1.  In the majority of applications, each mount really does not vary much in lenses available.  The biggest difference is in specialty lenses and primes.&#xA;&#xA;After that, I would say the biggest difference between brands is ergonomics and perhaps accessories.  Try to hold each brand (and not just at the level you are buying at, but upgrade paths), especially the lesser known POS brands (Pentax, Olympus and Sony :).  " CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:34:08.607" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1347" PostId="1329" Score="4" Text="You can easily do pinhole photos with a dSLR.  Some people have taked old body caps and just poked a hole in them.  When I was testing the idea I just took a few sheets of card stock and taped them to my camera...  worked great." CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:35:21.757" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1348" PostId="355" Text="Just a thought - isn't the light source in your example behind and above the subject? If so, you needn't use a small light source, just place it high enough so it's out of shot, no?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T14:43:44.870" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1349" PostId="1566" Text="Thanks, this looks very promising. It will require some glue scripting (since there's one app call per image, but I want to upload them all in a batch), but that won't be too hard." CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:03:12.780" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1350" PostId="355" Text="I think it's hidden behind the model in the example. It probably wouldn't make much difference if it was above and just out of frame, but if you put it significantly higher then highlights will look different -- it won't be just rim, but larger area -- something similar to highlights in http://www.flickr.com/photos/aknacer/3320219356/. But the main difference would be practical: you'd have to work around light stand that would be visible in picture, and shade the camera lens to prevent loss of contrast. Both of these things are taken care of when you stick the flash behind his head." CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:15:19.033" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1351" PostId="271" Text="Oh, I have used several P&amp;S cameras that had a higher megapixel count then my dSLRs, but the photos they took were just crap when compared to what I could do with my dSLR.  (Other than the Nikon Coolpix S8000... that little guy is amazing.)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:27:36.563" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1352" PostId="1481" Score="2" Text="At key points Thom clearly states &quot;I believe&quot; and does not declare it as fact. In the end the issue boils down to what is written 1) in ANSI standard (some might have the access and willingness to read it) and 2) in camera firmware (to which the access is very limited). So the _facts_ can only come from camera engineers and not internet discussion :)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:30:24.473" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1353" PostId="260" Score="11" Text="Why does everyone use the zoom range as the `x` factor when comparing zooms.  The 18-270mm couldn't touch the 50-500mm on reach." CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:31:08.217" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1354" PostId="1576" Text="@John, yes, of course, there is a difference between &quot;buy a cam and experiment&quot; and telling someone what to experiment on." CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:39:55.860" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1356" PostId="1596" Text="what is a crop factor?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T15:54:23.250" UserId="623" />
  <row Id="1357" PostId="1598" Score="3" Text="Just to add to this, the primary purpose is for use on a tripod.  A mirror slap will introduce lower frequency vibrations due to the long lever arm of the tripod, which take a couple seconds to reach equilibrium." CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:01:22.467" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1358" PostId="1598" Text="Good point, I assumed tripod because that's the only time I would use it. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:09:15.473" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1359" PostId="367" Score="2" Text="+1 for &quot;look significantly wrong&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:14:55.687" UserId="623" />
  <row Id="1360" PostId="1596" Score="1" Text="@Ian, see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor for a good answer to that" CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:26:06.550" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1361" PostId="1594" Text="It has an internal baffle, I'll have to take a closer look to see if light can leak around the baffle reducing the effectiveness of the baffle-mounted gel." CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:33:24.420" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1362" PostId="1591" Text="Did you try the feature search at dpreview? That could help you do identify a few candidates: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare.asp" CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:34:47.727" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1363" PostId="1600" Text="A short and direct answer, many thanks.  In your experience, how long after the mirror is locked up should I release the shutter?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T16:42:54.630" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1364" PostId="1609" Text="For more on that third option, search on the term &quot;camera traps&quot; in Google.  It looks like they tend to be used for wild animal photography (http://www.worldwildlife.org/species/camera-traps/moreoncameratraps.html)." CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:11:45.383" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="1365" PostId="1581" Text="You have to be careful, however, on which system you buy, as the plate systems are not all the same. I had the 468MGRC2, which used the same RC2 plate system as the head you linked, and near the upper max of 10kg, it had a front tilt of about 1/8&quot; which made it nearly impossible to use." CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:41:06.363" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1366" PostId="1579" Text="I kind of agree with @ChrisF on this. This question is broad and will be difficult to come up with a answer without going into a lot of depth--we'd have to essentially go through all the different plate systems (Manfrotto has at least 5 different types of quick releases alone). " CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:45:13.020" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1367" PostId="1585" Text="+1 for the RC4. I modded my 468GM to use the RC4, and it's awesome." CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:45:48.807" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1368" PostId="1596" Score="1" Text="I much prefer effective focal length than having crop factors thrown around.  It will give a one common term to use that everyone can relate to, instead of both a focal length and people's varying crop factors.&#xA;&#xA;I do understand that many might not know how to calculate effective focal length, but that should be in the FAQ." CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:46:00.270" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1369" PostId="271" Text="@Matthew: Yeah, some PS cams have higher MP counts than DSLR's. The important difference is not really the MP count but the size of each photosite. Smaller and more densely packed photosites result in noisier images. PS cameras have extremely small sensors, and most of the time tend to have really high noise. A large full-frame sensor with the same MP count as a PS will look worlds better due to the lower density and larger photosites." CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:50:12.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1370" PostId="1612" Score="1" Text="You can wear a backpack/rucksack after you put your camera on with an RS-4. I do this all the time with my Crumpler Whickey &amp; Cox. Though I recommend getting the BRAD mod to keep the shoulder strap in place." CreationDate="2010-07-28T17:58:45.003" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1371" PostId="1611" Score="1" Text="Straps are pretty much universal for all major dslrs." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:01:00.193" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1372" PostId="1590" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/817/photo-equipment-for-the-disabled " CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:04:31.717" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1373" PostId="619" Score="1" Text="Thanks. I'm waiting good weather to reshoot my examples with the color filters (like 25A) to prove my second point, but I'm not sure if anybody's interested :)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:09:58.477" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1374" PostId="1594" Text="It would have to be a substantial amount of leakage, I would think, to be dominant enough to overcome the correction." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:12:46.550" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1375" PostId="1606" Text="Also good for macro work where the depth of field is so shallow that any vibration can change the resulting focal point. I use both my wired and wireless releases constantly." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:14:22.727" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1376" PostId="1613" Score="1" Text="+1 This product looks really useful! Great tip!" CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:26:20.720" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1377" PostId="260" Text="I'm also very happy with my Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 DC Macro. Sharpness is very good. The only downside is the build quality, the zoomring is getting quite sloppy." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:31:37.277" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1378" PostId="1596" Score="4" Text="But &quot;effective focal length&quot; is a meaningless term. I shoot APS-C and I know what 18mm will give; it's unfair to insist that I mentally convert that to 24mm whenever I talk about it. It's an 18mm lens and it has a certain field of view on one form factor and a different FOV on another." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:32:32.753" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1379" PostId="1600" Text="@Canon Gangsta: A few seconds is enough. On my Canon EOS 5D mk II there is a mode where it folds up the mirror and takes the photo two seconds later." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:33:47.117" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1380" PostId="1329" Text="@Matthew - definitely. I'm just making a fairly narrow technical point above about image sharpness and resolution. Pinholes are awesome, however you do them." CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:38:44.703" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1381" PostId="1588" Text="Another related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/946/how-do-i-use-gels-to-make-my-flash-match-the-color-of-the-ambient-light" CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:42:07.663" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1382" PostId="1615" Text="Posible duplicate of: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/836/flash-sync-speed-buying-decision-factor" CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:45:13.117" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1383" PostId="1615" Text="other question should be edited to include &quot;what is sync speed&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:52:34.927" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1384" PostId="1611" Score="1" Text="Good question. I always get annoyed with the normal strap when I use the camera in portrait orientation and the strap gets in my face :S. " CreationDate="2010-07-28T18:57:22.593" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1385" PostId="1616" Score="2" Text="The mirror doesn't really have anything to do with sync speed. The mirror has to be flipped up entirely out of the way (except with a pellicle mirror system) before the shutter opens, regardless of shutter speed." CreationDate="2010-07-28T19:23:30.650" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1386" PostId="1596" Text="I'm not insisting you convert it whenever you talk about it, but only when referring to applications that reference to field of view or angle of view, such as &quot;what lens should I use at a basketball court?&quot; It's either the one OP converts the figure, or all the readers multiply two varying numbers in their head. If it provides a common term across all formats, how is it meaningless? Just because it doesn't measure something physical does not make it meaningless. &#xA;&#xA;For most questions, I don't envision EFL being mentioned at all, just as crop factor does not need to be mentioned." CreationDate="2010-07-28T19:34:33.883" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1387" PostId="1596" Text="I'm only saying that it will act as a normalizer across all formats(0.64,0.8,1x,1.3x,1.5x,1.6x,2x,4.55x,7.6x,20x...) and get everyone (including superzoom and P&amp;S users) involved and understanding what it all means. As opposed to converting from your crop factor to the OP's crop factor, each person converts to one common term." CreationDate="2010-07-28T19:46:53.260" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1388" PostId="1103" Text="I would prefer it to be wireless. That would allow me to be in the picture if necessary." CreationDate="2010-07-28T20:40:24.647" UserId="326" />
  <row Id="1389" PostId="1623" Text="+1 for fast Prime over VR. Get a 50mm or 35mm prime lens. The lower f stop is far more important than VR for indoor. Besides, for indoor photography, you'll rarely need to go out to 200mm.  As Ken Rockwell likes to say, if you can, you should always move to your subject for a better picture, instead of using zoom." CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:20:16.853" UserId="258" />
  <row Id="1390" PostId="4" Score="14" Text="Lug? How much do your lens caps weigh? ;-)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:23:18.447" UserId="258" />
  <row Id="1391" PostId="1619" Text="FWIW, your title is quite general but the actual question is fairly specific; you might want to edit your title." CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:23:26.763" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1392" PostId="425" Score="3" Text="+1 for Ken... maybe I'm insane too, but I like his perspective." CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:30:06.300" UserId="258" />
  <row Id="1393" PostId="1579" Text="Well, the point was not to get one single answer, but instead to have informations on which the reader might be able to decide, which quick release system would fit his own style.&#xA;you think this is unattainable?" CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:51:23.010" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="1394" PostId="1623" Text="Thanks for reply. In general I do landscapey stuff (handheld/beanbag), so that is my main focus for upgrading, and VR is presumably still worthwhile for that.&#xA;However, the reason I'm actively looking at upgrading now is due to photographing an event which'll be mostly people shots, so of course that is also a factor.  &#xA;  &#xA;I'll go update the question with more details." CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:51:30.620" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1395" PostId="1618" Text="Spot on, one brief suggestion. Perhaps give 'mechanical shutters on most DSLRs' their name: focal plane shutters. The answer applies to any focal plane shutter, from a speed graphic to a leica M9, so might as well be inclusive!" CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:54:59.123" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1396" PostId="1629" Text="Thanks Johannes - see my update in response to Reid - the people stuff is more of an occasional thing, so even the 70-200 f/2.8 Sigma would be expensive for that." CreationDate="2010-07-28T21:57:35.063" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1397" PostId="1623" Text="Nick - I've just added more details to question, since I wasn't clear enough initially - I'm mainly after an 'outdoor' lens that is *capable* of indoor, rather than dedicated to that. And yeah, I certainly do move my body as well as zooming, depending on what is appropriate. (Though sometimes those damn laws of physics force me to zoom when I'd prefer otherwise.)" CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:02:24.563" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1398" PostId="1627" Text="Based on my experiences with my current Sigma 70-300mm, I'd want solid evidence of quality before paying for a non-EX Sigma lens." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:04:10.350" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1399" PostId="1619" Text="A useful link relevant to this question is http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/804/how-does-image-stabilization-vibration-reduction-work - has explanations of what VR does / is for (i.e. camera movement, not subject movement) and some interesting links with more details." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:16:01.870" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1400" PostId="1634" Score="1" Text="Wonderfully informative; being a slave to CF, I was unaware of the upcoming SDXC platform, or the Pentax decision to choose SDHC over CF.  " CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:18:18.357" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1401" PostId="1639" Text="For example, obviously a tripod is needed, but what type of head is ideal, using a wide angle lens or zoom?  " CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:27:12.717" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1402" PostId="1594" Text="Upon closer inspection, the amount of leakage would be very substantial, additionally, the baffle in the 30x60 soft box is enormous, yet, it leaves significant gaps all around.&#xA;&#xA;I may be on my own for a solution." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:32:39.857" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1403" PostId="1631" Score="1" Text="SDHC has a higher capacity but originaly SD lagged behind CF by quite a lot." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:36:01.943" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="1404" PostId="1627" Text="BTW... for the down voter.  The &quot;stop wasting time&quot; is meant as a joke against a comment the OP posted." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:36:10.430" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1405" PostId="1627" Text="@Peter, I have had great luck with my Sigma lenses.  I was worried at first because of what I have read people saying about some of them online.  But after getting a chance to use my friends 18-200 I decided to try a few out on my own.  They have given me excellent results.  Judge for yourself, I have posted a few samples above. " CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:39:45.793" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1406" PostId="1619" Text="Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear on the request for details. Since landscapes and indoor portraits are very different types of photography, I was hoping you could specify in the title which you were after." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:40:13.000" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1408" PostId="1623" Text="@Peter Boughton: answer updated in response to more details. Also consider renting a pro lens." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:51:11.740" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1409" PostId="1627" Text="The downvote is because it's not a good recommendation in this situation. See my answer for details." CreationDate="2010-07-28T22:52:36.573" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1411" PostId="1596" Score="1" Text="@Eruditass: my impression has always been that &quot;effective focal length&quot; loses the &quot;effective,&quot; both in writing and in people's heads, and then you end up explaining that the focal length of a lens has as much to do with the sensor as does its mass.  I think there are better terms for the situation you describe, e.g., &quot;equivalent/effective field of view&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-28T23:32:45.120" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1412" PostId="1644" Text="Very good point about parallax." CreationDate="2010-07-28T23:37:24.100" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1413" PostId="78" Score="3" Text="I would add that it's dependent on the aperture of the lens." CreationDate="2010-07-29T00:31:00.343" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1414" PostId="1615" Text="@Gangsta: Is the current wording &quot;What exactly is flash sync speed&quot; not sufficient?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T00:41:43.317" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1415" PostId="1615" Text="The question is written as &quot;Flash Sync Speed: Flash sync speed : buying decision factor ?&quot; which doesn't match the content.  This question is purely asked for definition of sync speed, not diluted with : buying decision factor&quot;  This question will likely get more search engine hits because it's asked as a person would ask it in a query." CreationDate="2010-07-29T01:55:15.010" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1416" PostId="1615" Text="@Gangsta: I understand your point now. However, terminology was off a bit. The question is **titled** &quot;Flash Sync Speed...&quot;, but **asked** starting with &quot;What exactly is flash sync speed&quot;. I think both questions will be indexed by search engines equally enough, but I'll leave this one as is. " CreationDate="2010-07-29T02:03:44.367" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1417" PostId="1622" Text="It should be noted that there is a slight difference in freezing motion with flash vs. with shutter. Your example is excellent, however you might want to note that while the flash will freeze the water drops for the moment they are lit, you'll also get a sense of their motion for the rest of the duration the shutter is open (or the inverse if your using back-curtain flash sync.)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T02:07:46.523" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1418" PostId="1568" Text="Very good points. I regularly use file-level sync tools, but had a vague feeling they're inadequate in this case. That's why I specifically asked about Lightroom." CreationDate="2010-07-29T02:08:58.440" UserId="605" />
  <row Id="1420" PostId="1648" Score="1" Text="One catch is, if the photo is manipulated in any way the EXIF is very likely removed or reduced. Availability of EXIF data on a photo-sharing site and general images searches is entirely dependent on the uploaded image meta-content. Yet, looking for the possibility of meta that can be used for searching stolen camera is a good idea in itself." CreationDate="2010-07-29T02:27:29.817" UserId="163" />
  <row Id="1421" PostId="1629" Text="How about renting instead of buying?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T02:36:27.127" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1422" PostId="1648" Text="@nik: True, you would be at the mercy of whatever is uploaded... Its too bad that workflows in most tools, like Photoshop, Lightroom, etc. do not preserve tag data across saves and modifications." CreationDate="2010-07-29T02:54:10.110" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1423" PostId="1594" Text="Well, you can move closer to the flash, but then you'd probably need to attach your own velcro to the inside of the soft box. That's pretty easy to do with velcro tape, but it's not generic as such, though it becomes so if you always have velcro with you..." CreationDate="2010-07-29T03:39:20.363" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1424" PostId="805" Text="We use 1Ds industrially - they are built like tanks. But you wouldn't want to carry one all day.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-07-29T03:50:33.763" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="1425" PostId="1655" Text="@Chills: I know the ICC profiles are used for color...I just wanted to make it clear that I am printing with proper color management, so people didn't throw out answers involving ICM." CreationDate="2010-07-29T04:24:43.427" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1426" PostId="1655" Text="Regarding the native resolution...I have heard it is 600ppi for Canon printers, and 720ppi for Epson. However, I have been unable to verify that one way or another, and the specified resolution of 4800x2400 dpi means little to nothing as far as I can tell. Is the native resolution 300ppi or 600ppi?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T04:30:14.483" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1427" PostId="38" Text="Good explanation of bokeh by the CEO of  Alien Skin: http://www.alienskin.com/bokeh/Bokeh-tutorials-fake-model.aspx " CreationDate="2010-07-29T05:45:16.243" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1428" PostId="814" Text="And if that doesn't work,  it's still a lot of fun to try. Especially if there's falling rain or snow involved." CreationDate="2010-07-29T05:51:44.047" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1429" PostId="1467" Score="1" Text="+1 as this is the reason I chose my D90. I did have the budget so it was not a money issue but a needs issue. I also purchased body, lense, sb-600 flash separately" CreationDate="2010-07-29T05:53:46.337" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="1430" PostId="493" Text="I wonder if all the CPU cycles uses up the battery faster?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T06:12:06.177" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1431" PostId="562" Text="There's Cinepaint, branched off an early version of GIMP, for handling 16bit etc." CreationDate="2010-07-29T06:16:49.537" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1432" PostId="1640" Text="Apart from exposure, it's good to fix white balance on some manual setting. If you keep it on auto and shoot JPEG, you might get different colors for every photo, which is also pain to fix." CreationDate="2010-07-29T06:55:26.913" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1433" PostId="1643" Text="For high-resolution security cameras, there are special &quot;Megapixel&quot; CCTV lenses that get you more resolution than usual PAL/VGA. But those cameras top at 5Mpix, so you probably wouldn't get photographic quality results. Not mentioning color and distortion." CreationDate="2010-07-29T06:58:41.637" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1434" PostId="216" Score="3" Text="100mm lenses may not be a walking-around lens, but 50mm certainly is, 28mm and 35mm as well. All of those are used with regularity in street photography. " CreationDate="2010-07-29T07:46:05.407" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1435" PostId="1605" Score="1" Text="I think 101 is overstating it a bit. Two or three are usually sufficient, and a lot of accomplished photographers predominantly used only one or two focal lengths." CreationDate="2010-07-29T07:52:32.660" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1436" PostId="1638" Text="given I could not get I refund due to the lens sticking problem, I don't think I will every trust a Caplio again." CreationDate="2010-07-29T08:55:19.640" UserId="623" />
  <row Id="1437" PostId="301" Text="+1 for point 4 - I also brought this from rifle shooting experience." CreationDate="2010-07-29T08:57:06.267" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="1438" PostId="1638" Text="Also the Caplio still seems to have the very hard to use zoom slider rathern then two easy to use button like most cameras" CreationDate="2010-07-29T09:00:06.710" UserId="623" />
  <row Id="1439" PostId="1607" Text="The problem with the Panasonic is &quot;12x zoom is controlled using a toggle switch around the shutter release&quot; that will be as hard for my wife to use as the zoom control on the Ricoh Caplio. " CreationDate="2010-07-29T09:10:30.257" UserId="623" />
  <row Id="1440" PostId="1578" Score="1" Text="+1, great answer! compact digital camera has changed the playing field completely -- more people can learn photography at a lower cost and effort." CreationDate="2010-07-29T09:14:43.673" UserId="163" />
  <row Id="1441" PostId="817" Score="1" Text="It amazing the shots someone can get from a wheelchair, as most people ignore wheelchair users.  You can take a wheelchair a lot of places you will never get away with a normal tripod." CreationDate="2010-07-29T09:15:25.017" UserId="623" />
  <row Id="1442" PostId="1579" Text="@Sam - while the Stack Exchange engine *can* be used for this sort of list question it's not really what it's built for. The votes and acceptance of one answer are designed to make the correct answer (well the answer that solved the problem) bubble to the top of the list." CreationDate="2010-07-29T10:14:20.567" UserId="441" />
  <row Id="1443" PostId="216" Text="@matt a prime is not versatile for use as a walk-around lens, you cannot easily flip between a wide angle landscape, or an abstract detail by the side of the way. - i.e. the point I was trying to get across is that primes are not general purpose." CreationDate="2010-07-29T11:36:58.443" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1444" PostId="1618" Text="@matt I did consider that, but wanted to emphasize to anybody unfamiliar with the subject that it was something physical, without having to go off and bing/google/etc. &quot;focal plane shutter&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-29T11:39:08.080" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1445" PostId="1260" Text="you should probably break this up into a number of separate answers" CreationDate="2010-07-29T11:57:10.760" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1446" PostId="997" Text=":) DSLR flash, the universal sign of someone who paid thousands of dollars for tool they don't know how to use." CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:14:17.763" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1447" PostId="1153" Text="+1 for the bolt advice" CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:14:47.653" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1448" PostId="1655" Text="Sorry, slightly misread the question, I was thinking about sending them to be printed, not printing yourself." CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:22:56.323" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1449" PostId="1644" Text="Manual mode isn't such a big deal anymore, decent software can flatten out varying exposure and white balance quite effectively.&#xA;&#xA;Reducing parallax effects however is critical." CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:27:52.633" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1450" PostId="1612" Score="1" Text="+1 for BlackRapid. You don't get the garish branding colours that you have on Nikon or Canon straps, so look less like a tourist. To counter your point about rucksacks, though, I find the design enables you to wear the strap under the rucksack, but still use it as intended. This is a huge help for me, as it means I don't have to remove the strap if I want to change lens, etc." CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:29:41.990" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1451" PostId="1619" Text="Ah, ok. Considering it more, I think I'm confusing the matter by asking two questions together, which obviously (now) have entirely different answers, so I think I'll properly split this into two questions." CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:44:39.120" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1452" PostId="1623" Text="Thanks again Reid, those are good things to keep in mind on that blog post, and renting a good lens is a good suggestion too.&#xA;I should say, I'm not &quot;the&quot; event photographer, just &quot;a&quot; photographer at the event - though of course I still want to make sure I avoid all those mistakes and get decent results.&#xA;Anyway, I'm going to accept this, but then go ask more targeted questions." CreationDate="2010-07-29T12:45:35.547" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1453" PostId="1619" Text="Ok, I've created the following two questions:&#xA;http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1663/whats-a-good-nikon-lens-dx-for-a-serious-hobbyist-landscape-photographer&#xA;http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1664/what-is-good-equipment-to-buy-hire-for-a-generalist-photographer-new-to-event-ph" CreationDate="2010-07-29T13:27:14.657" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1454" PostId="1629" Text="Yep, renting is a possibility - as mentioned above, I've created a new (hopefully more sensible) question here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1664/what-is-good-equipment-to-buy-hire-for-a-generalist-photographer-new-to-event-ph" CreationDate="2010-07-29T13:29:31.873" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1455" PostId="1627" Text="I'd have to bed to differ on the 18-200mm not working well indoors and in low light. I have many shots that would show otherwise. And it gives you an excellent zoom range when you are just going for a photo walk." CreationDate="2010-07-29T13:31:18.627" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1456" PostId="1627" Text="Matthew, I think this might be worthwhile reposting on my more targeted question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1663/whats-a-good-nikon-lens-dx-for-a-serious-hobbyist-landscape-photographer&#xA;&#xA;I haven't had a chance to check those images out yet, but I will do at some point." CreationDate="2010-07-29T13:47:29.070" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1457" PostId="1648" Text="Thanks for pointing out tineye. They're up to 1.6 billion images making my 0.3 million look pretty rubbish! But if they can do it so can I!&#xA;&#xA;I'll get to work on writing a more generic web crawler to spider all websites..." CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:18:44.207" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="1458" PostId="1670" Score="3" Text="I really hate it when the camera shop staff think they know what you want more than you do. It wasn't Jessops was it?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:45:09.120" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1459" PostId="1666" Text="great idea. thanks :)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:47:15.743" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1460" PostId="1662" Text="thanks for that great list, @Nick.  Much appreciated.  " CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:47:40.563" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1461" PostId="1672" Text="Yeah, that's kind of what I thought also ... thanks for confirming it." CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:48:42.043" UserId="644" />
  <row Id="1462" PostId="1613" Text="Clicking around their site I came across [this review](http://www.photoinduced.com/5651/ohhh-my-aching-back/) comparing the Black Rapid with some similar products and the Black Rapid came out on top. I think I shall go buy one :)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:49:23.447" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1463" PostId="1662" Text="No probs. Be interested to know how it goes - where are you going?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:50:03.040" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1464" PostId="1673" Text="I agree with this entirely ... taking pictures of an area is a fine technical exercise ... and probably educational ... but knowing about the area makes it more personal and fun (at least IMO)." CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:51:40.103" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="1465" PostId="1663" Text="@Peter, useful to know your budget, since that will dramatically affect recommendations." CreationDate="2010-07-29T14:57:59.213" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1466" PostId="1665" Text="Heh, in the past it's always seemed super-wide lenses were incredibly expensive, but looks like that one is 'only' £360. I'll certainly consider that, but I still want to replace the 70-300mm with something decent too." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:00:37.850" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1467" PostId="1607" Text="Right, for that you may want to check the Olympus µ-9010 (or 9000 if you live in the U.S.), see the link above." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:11:27.043" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="1468" PostId="55" Score="1" Text="It can be worse, but if you do it frequently and only in your house and you store your camera in a humidity controlled area (like a cabinet with dessicants), it is often all you need.  The Giottos brand claims to have a filter at the bottom, as well.&#xA;&#xA;Humidity causes dust to stick.  I have dessicants in my camera bag as well as my cabinet and the rocket blower always takes care of them.  Dust inside the camera is ineveitable, so I don't bother with wet methods.  Sticky dust is preventable." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:12:37.200" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1469" PostId="1663" Text="Sorry yeah, just added that now. I would prefer &lt;£500 really, but can go higher if it's good value." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:14:01.083" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1470" PostId="1670" Text="No, Nick, it was Wolf camera." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:21:23.307" UserId="644" />
  <row Id="1471" PostId="1596" Text="Any solution will require re-education to the masses.  I feel that asking people to memorize degrees numbers is less likely, but would definitely be ideal.&#xA;&#xA;I view both of these solutions as better than the crop factor suggestion, which I believe has been a major source of confusion.  People have been stuck on crop factors instead of what they do, which is give an equivalent focal length.  I believe assigning emphasis on the equivalent focal length, instead of crop factor, would make people think more about understanding it.  You only need to know your own, not others." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:26:07.053" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1472" PostId="1596" Score="1" Text="But it's not equivalent focal length. It's field of view. We shouldn't perpetuate this confusion." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:33:01.597" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1473" PostId="1656" Text="+1 Fantastic camera.  Since I got mine I carry it as backup to my macro prime and long telephoto." CreationDate="2010-07-29T15:47:53.580" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1474" PostId="1668" Score="1" Text="As a pro event photographer, I wholly agree w/ this answer.  A 70-200 f/2.8 along with a wide-angle zoom are what I would consider the standard set of lenses." CreationDate="2010-07-29T16:04:39.467" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="1475" PostId="1648" Text="@matt: True, they have 1.6 billion, but they don't search by serial number. If you could search by both content and serial number, you'd have an edge on them. ;P" CreationDate="2010-07-29T16:17:47.663" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1476" PostId="1682" Text="One test showed that Olympus has the only internal dust cleaning mechanism that really works." CreationDate="2010-07-29T16:43:23.393" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1479" PostId="490" Text="Great answer. Couple nit picks: On lens flare, loss of contrast does not have a prerequisite of a bright spot or streak, as your wording can imply. Coating helps mitigate flare (along with ghosting, as you mentioned). Also, petal-shaped hood is always the best on any lens, including telephotos. Most (consumer) telephotos have a rotating front element, which is why a round hood is used. Many pro telephotos use petal-shaped hoods. Some use round hoods w/o a rotating FE for cost and abillity to lay flat on the ground. Diffraction is an optical abberation of the pixel spacing, not the lens." CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:00:52.230" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1483" PostId="1671" Text="Another option is blending multiple shots together.  My K-x has it built in, called multi-exposure, with a checkbox for Auto-EV adjustment (otherwise it will add up the exposure instead of averaging)." CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:18:22.593" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1484" PostId="734" Score="1" Text="Great stuff! I've noticed that a lot of lens manufacturers explicitly list the lens element features they use. Canon does not explicitly list every detail about their lenses with their feature codes, however it should be noted that they do use special lens elements. Canon lenses do use the following: UD (ultralow dispersion) Glass, Aspherical Lenses, Flourite Lenses, Diffractive Optics. Canon lenses also use advanced milticoating on both the front and internal lens elements. Not really sure why they don't publicize that much, but, there it is." CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:32:36.720" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1485" PostId="490" Text="@Eruditass: Technically speaking, diffraction is the bending of light around an obstacle, and has little to do with pixels. In the context of a camera, diffraction is caused when light passes through an aperture lower than its maximum setting. The distortion in the lights waveform creates something called an airy disc. When using small enough apertures, the airy disc effect can grow large enough to affect more than one pixel at a time, resulting in softened images. The larger your pixels, the smaller your aperture needs to be to become problematic, so the lens *is* involved, but not solely." CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:46:19.987" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1486" PostId="490" Text="@jrista: That is true, I just wanted to emphasise the point that the abberation is the same for all lenses and their apertures, but the appearance of the abberation is entirely dependent on pixel spacing, which you did not mention at all. This has nothing to do with a sensor being &quot;better.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:51:28.807" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1487" PostId="490" Text="@Karel: Granted, there are additional types of aberrations like coma, spherical aberration, etc. Generally speaking, most camera lenses these days include aspherical lens elements that correct such aberration, and it is rarely if ever a problem. I could add those to my answer...however I am not sure they occur often enough to be a major problem." CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:52:38.383" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1488" PostId="1680" Score="2" Text="I dunno, I think the pink rectangles are a perfectly valid artistic choice. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:53:43.343" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1489" PostId="490" Text="@Eruditass: I'll clarify that part. By &quot;better&quot;, I meant larger pixels with more effective microlenses over the photosites. I wouldn't say it is so much the spacing of the photosite, but the size and effectiveness at gathering incident light." CreationDate="2010-07-29T17:54:52.593" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1490" PostId="1682" Text="Bit of an expensive option buy a new body, although next time I buy a body, it'll have built in sensor cleaning..." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:10:26.600" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1491" PostId="216" Score="4" Text="@Rowland: what I'm trying to say is that's a very subjective aspect of the question, and I think you dismiss too quickly.  Primes are still a good choice for a lot of people as everyday lenses.  Also, the &quot;not versatile&quot; aspect could apply equally to many fairly common zooms; an 80-200 or 14-24 can't switch from wide to narrow either – I think the distinction you're making isn't properly zoom vs. prime, but &quot;wide-to-mild-telephoto zoom&quot; vs. everything else." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:13:44.677" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1492" PostId="1690" Score="1" Text="That link doesn't appear to work for me..." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:15:09.320" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1493" PostId="1690" Text="@Rowland: Sorry...I think my companies *brilliant and wonderful* (*scarcasm*) firewall virus scanner screwed up the link. I've tried to correct it...let me know if it still doesn't work." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:21:46.483" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1494" PostId="490" Score="1" Text="@jrista I think spherical aberration is worth a mention for a couple of reasons: first, that it has a bit of a special status, as it's a big part of the look of many classic portrait lenses that may not even be desirable to fully correct. Secondly that not everyone will be buying new asph lenses (I'm also wary of the idea that &quot;most&quot; current lenses include aspherical elements, but don't have evidence either way).  In fact, I'd bet people buying older lenses will be much more interested in this answer than people buying new - it's what they'll have to deal with!" CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:23:18.493" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1495" PostId="837" Text="One benefit of flash sync speed that has nothing to do with flash is the amount of distortion that you will get with very fast moving subjects.  It is the same as the rolling shutter effect of DSLR video slow sensor readouts, but their effective speeds are much much slower.&#xA;&#xA;I am not sure how much the improvement is, if anyone else knows." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:25:08.227" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1496" PostId="1655" Text="@chills: No problem. I've been doing some heavy research, and I think I'll answer the question myself. However, I'll probably start a wiki thread to do it in, so search engines can pick up the information. I've learned a some very interesting things about dpi, ppi, tonal range, etc. " CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:26:53.977" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1497" PostId="1691" Text="Thanks for the info, Guffa. Could you provide a bit more information about how unsharp mask works, and why you chose a base radius of 0.1mm? I enjoy theory, so don't worry about keeping your answer super simple...the more knowledge I have, the more effective I can be." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:33:41.517" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1498" PostId="1689" Text="+1 That is a good article. " CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:35:44.803" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1499" PostId="1380" Text="Thanks for the link. Fast Picture Viewer seems to be exactly what I was looking for. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:37:06.283" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1500" PostId="1692" Score="1" Text="I recently discovered the same thing. It was annoying at first, but it forced me to learn the value of using flash to augment the existing ambient lighting more than simply using flash as the primary light source." CreationDate="2010-07-29T18:51:25.550" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1501" PostId="1690" Text="@jrista That works now :)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T19:05:05.820" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1502" PostId="1687" Score="7" Text="What aspects?  I'd say either 16:9 or 3:2 :)  Tip your waitresses, folks!" CreationDate="2010-07-29T19:35:07.063" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="1503" PostId="490" Text="@matt: Excellent point about older lenses. I'll add information on additional aberrations then, since I did not even consider people who might be buying used lenses and the like. The point about the desirable effect of spherical aberration is another interesting fact. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-29T19:59:41.217" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1504" PostId="1618" Score="1" Text="@Rowland: good point. What about something along the lines of: ...most common DSLRs (called &quot;focal plane shutters&quot;)... with a link to relevant definition? Kill two birds with one stone? Or too much in one answer?" CreationDate="2010-07-29T20:21:33.487" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1505" PostId="1691" Text="@jrista: The 0.1 mm is what people have arrived at after about 70 years of usage. You can read a little more about the background in this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1370/unsharp-mask-what-do-the-parameters-do/1377#1377" CreationDate="2010-07-29T20:25:55.257" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1506" PostId="1159" Score="1" Text="I am guessing the downvotes are due to self advertising. I would put the important, key points from your article in your answer, so that the information is available and indexable here. If people need/want more information, they could then go to your article." CreationDate="2010-07-29T20:28:27.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1507" PostId="1691" Text="@Guffa: Thanks. I read your previous post, but was unsure why 0.1mm was the chosen baseline. " CreationDate="2010-07-29T20:39:41.493" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1508" PostId="1525" Text="Thanks, I'll probably use the tagging the Picasa provides or use jhead on the command line.&#xA;Would have been nice to do it within the GIMP though." CreationDate="2010-07-29T21:29:56.843" UserId="430" />
  <row Id="1509" PostId="490" Score="1" Text="@jrista: Thanks for the retro hat-tip.  I totally realise this is splitting hairs now, so feel free to disregard: it's not just soft-focus portrait lenses that have under-corrected spherical aberration.  Slight under-correction tends to render a smoother out-of-focus area, and so it's used in a lot of &quot;sharp but not clinical&quot; lenses like the Nikkor 105/2.5." CreationDate="2010-07-29T21:49:18.327" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1510" PostId="431" Text="The main reason people probably think manual mode in a P&amp;S is a joke is because one of the main variables is quite limiting.  You gain a lot of DOF control with a larger sensor camera.  There is little to gain in adjusting aperture in a P&amp;S, in fact you're likely to just make your photos look worse due to diffraction.&#xA;&#xA;You do get to mess around with shutter speed which is a major part of photography and capturing motion in the way that you want it." CreationDate="2010-07-29T21:50:58.653" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1511" PostId="917" Text="@Eruditass I'm not sure I follow; for rectilinear lenses, as long as you don't change your position w.r.t. the subject, the perspective won't change.  I.e., the middle of a 35mm shot has the same perspective as a 50mm from the same position. Or so I've thought - might be worth a try." CreationDate="2010-07-29T21:54:38.810" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1512" PostId="490" Text="@matt: Thanks for the details. ;) I think my post has become rather technical, which may not serve everyone who comes looking for this answer. I love technical details myself, but I'll leave the remaining finer details to the comments. If you have any more useful tidbits, please post comments noting them, so we at least track the info." CreationDate="2010-07-29T22:00:13.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1513" PostId="917" Text="@matt smillie You follow correctly, perspective distortion is a function of working distance.  I am assuming that one wants to fill the frame the same amount." CreationDate="2010-07-29T22:16:33.597" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1514" PostId="1671" Text="I'm fairly sure it should be &quot;An ND filter&quot;" CreationDate="2010-07-29T23:23:58.737" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="1515" PostId="917" Text="@Eruditass: OK, are you saying 50mm isn't suitable for portraits on 135 format? If so, I follow. Otherwise, still confused: 35mm/APS-C is approx the same working distance as 50mm/135, or even slightly larger, so if 50mm is suitable for portraits at full-frame, 35mm would be with a crop, no? (Sorry for dragging this out)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T23:33:25.867" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1516" PostId="774" Score="1" Text="Couldn't have put it better myself. ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-29T23:43:07.440" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1517" PostId="1670" Text="I have not had the greatest experience with Wolf camera. We used to have several around Denver, Colorado...however they have diminished over the last few years. Their service, breadth of knowledge, and diversity of products has never been particularly stellar, so it is not surprising you had a confusing experience there." CreationDate="2010-07-30T00:16:36.500" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1518" PostId="1671" Text="@tolomea: Depends on how you read an acronym. If you read ND as 'Enn Dee`, then &quot;An ND filter&quot; would be appropriate. However, if you read ND as the words it represents, &quot;A neutral density filter&quot;, then &quot;A ND filter&quot; is more appropriate. Its difficult to properly articulate acronyms, and neither way is correct for every reader. Some readers will read it one way, others will read it the alternative way...both are valid." CreationDate="2010-07-30T00:19:04.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1519" PostId="1459" Score="1" Text="@Erica: I think what you are trying to say is that the camera hardware applies a `tone curve` to raw image data, which they do. Each channel is *processed* by applying a tone curve, which effectively &quot;adds&quot; the proper white balance and contrast. In reality, however, no real processing is being done, the tone curve just attenuates the image when it is rendered to a screen. If a linear tone curve is applied to each channel, the original raw state can still be viewed (although the image would look rather drab.)" CreationDate="2010-07-30T00:27:51.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1520" PostId="1693" Score="2" Text="Calibration is a must - good tip!" CreationDate="2010-07-30T01:14:08.657" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1521" PostId="1677" Text="Thom does have some excellent suggestions for both DX and FX, for low budget or money not a concern. " CreationDate="2010-07-30T01:16:30.320" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1523" PostId="917" Text="@matt smillie I meant when picking a lens for a portrait, you need to think about perspective distortion. It depends entirely on the subject and the image you envision. E.g. If they/you think their nose is too big or something, and you planned not to do a whole body shot, you want to stand further away and use a longer lens. If you want to tell more of a story or think their nose is too small, by all means use a shorter lens. Some of the portraits I like the most are with shorter lenses, as they are story telling. @ 22.5 EFL (DA15mm): http://pentaxforums.com/forums/968446-post1.html" CreationDate="2010-07-30T02:00:51.557" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1524" PostId="696" Text="To optimize in Lightroom 3 on the Mac, go to File &gt; Optimize Catalog." CreationDate="2010-07-30T02:21:10.477" UserId="316" />
  <row Id="1525" PostId="936" Score="4" Text="On photo sessions, if the environment is the same or similar, I always use manual because it is so much easier in post to copy and paste settings.  I get to work and make the first good one look as best I can (brightness, tone curve, saturation, vignetting, etc) and simply paste it as I go along.  Say the sun goes down a bit, I make adjustments, and copy those settings to the remainder until I change again.&#xA;&#xA;With aperture priority, even minor variations in exposure mess it up.  " CreationDate="2010-07-30T02:37:04.120" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1526" PostId="1465" Score="1" Text="I have a d90 and the video is garbage.  Decent enough to give your mom an idea of what was going on at some weird time, but not for anything serious.  I wish they would've cut the price of the D90 and left out the video" CreationDate="2010-07-30T02:59:16.330" UserId="652" />
  <row Id="1527" PostId="1716" Score="3" Text="uh...this is like a masters thesis. gd...+1" CreationDate="2010-07-30T06:08:39.757" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1528" PostId="1716" Score="1" Text="@Alan: HA, thanks. ;) I got tired of not knowing what my printer was doing with the images I sent it...so I decided to resolve that issue once and for all. :D" CreationDate="2010-07-30T06:19:40.450" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1529" PostId="1490" Score="1" Text="I have no photos even 1/10th that good, but yes it's strong light coming from behind with a dark background that does the job.  BTW, that's exactly how Cassini takes its pictures of the plumes of Enceladus.  " CreationDate="2010-07-30T07:00:32.193" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1530" PostId="1490" Score="2" Text="What is the shutter speed for that photo?  It's got the right amount of motion blur for the raindrops." CreationDate="2010-07-30T07:01:17.217" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1531" PostId="1671" Text="I actually agree with @tolomea; when speaking I would spontaneously say &quot;An ND filter&quot;." CreationDate="2010-07-30T08:34:21.430" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1532" PostId="1717" Text="Did you want to edit the metadata, or actually edit the image data (or convert to another format such as JPEG?)" CreationDate="2010-07-30T09:12:30.060" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1533" PostId="1670" Text="Ah - just noticed you're in the States, so you won't have Jessops (luckily). Sounds like Wolf are the US equivalent! " CreationDate="2010-07-30T09:34:37.577" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="1534" PostId="1490" Score="2" Text="1/80 sec. More Exif at http://www.flickr.com/photos/che_0/4832069088/meta/" CreationDate="2010-07-30T10:21:24.203" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1535" PostId="1687" Score="2" Text="If any manufacturer would make a square monitor I would buy it immediately. The traditional formats (and especially the widescreens) are a pain when you shoot half your images in portrait orientation. OK, most screens can be turned, but it's a pain." CreationDate="2010-07-30T10:22:08.133" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1537" PostId="434" Score="2" Text="Unfortunately the fashion shoot video ignores the fact that they wouldn't be able to do it without tons of expensive lighting equipment." CreationDate="2010-07-30T10:36:00.430" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1538" PostId="1697" Score="1" Text="On Canon lenses it's called FT/M (full-time manual) and most lenses with USM motors are able to do it." CreationDate="2010-07-30T10:39:33.000" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1539" PostId="1061" Text="@Chuck +1 for the astronomical pun!  " CreationDate="2010-07-30T11:17:03.147" UserId="602" />
  <row Id="1540" PostId="78" Text="Thanks, updated the answer a bit." CreationDate="2010-07-30T13:16:11.460" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1541" PostId="1671" Text="@jrista - I think the proper rule is to determine if the starting sound of an acronym *as spelled* leads with a vowel or not, and use &quot;an&quot; accordingly.  So the subquestion here is really &quot;Is ND an acronym, or just an abbreviation for the web&quot; - and I think enough products are branded as ND that it can be called an acronym.  +1 for Fred's answer tho :)" CreationDate="2010-07-30T13:50:20.177" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="1542" PostId="1566" Text="This is going to work. I'll post my script in a new answer when I get to it, as a significant amount of voodoo is required." CreationDate="2010-07-30T13:59:44.443" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1543" PostId="1721" Score="3" Text="It's slow as hell unfortunately, though." CreationDate="2010-07-30T15:56:10.617" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1544" PostId="1693" Text="For photo editing, 300 cd/m^2 is *way* high. You normally want around 110 cd/m^2 for an LCD, or around 90 for a CRT." CreationDate="2010-07-30T16:00:38.493" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1545" PostId="1717" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/724/please-suggest-a-workflow-on-mac-using-only-free-open-source-software. In particular, consider whether your budget really is just $0 -- you can get much better software if you are willing to pay, and you don't have to pay much." CreationDate="2010-07-30T16:18:56.793" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1546" PostId="1691" Text="@Guffa: Completely off topic, and you might already be aware of it, but I thought I should point out that you are nominated for becoming a moderator (here: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/174/moderator-nomination-thread/181#181). Just so you can accept or decline in the post so the voters know :)" CreationDate="2010-07-30T17:22:11.047" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1547" PostId="1717" Text="@Reid Priedhorsky - my next option is Adobe Photoshop Elements, which includes Adobe Camera RAW." CreationDate="2010-07-30T17:23:30.640" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="1548" PostId="1566" Text="Good to hear that my answer was helpful :)" CreationDate="2010-07-30T17:26:09.870" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1549" PostId="1691" Text="@Fredrik Mörk: Thanks for pointing that out. I'm on vacation and haven't checked meta for a few days. :)" CreationDate="2010-07-30T17:31:15.883" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1550" PostId="1719" Score="3" Text="+1: Good article, although I think the author kind of misses the point of hyperfocal distance. One doesn't generally use a hyper focal point when shooting anything with measurable depth. Thats why it is only really usable on wide angle lenses when doing far distance shots...i.e landscapes. While I agree there is too much rhetoric about it on the net, hyperfocal distance is really just a simple marker that indicates you've got good focus out to great distance, which is useful for landscape photography." CreationDate="2010-07-30T17:37:50.680" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1551" PostId="1693" Score="1" Text="I think &quot;critical&quot; is overstating it a bit.  A wide-gamut monitor is of little benefit (even a hinderance in practice) unless it matches the gamut of the output.  On the web, that's sRGB (or an un-calibrated approximation), and in print it depends on the printer, and plenty of perfectly good printers have settled on sRGB as well.  If that's your situation, a wide-gamut monitor doesn't gain you very much." CreationDate="2010-07-30T18:00:16.923" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1552" PostId="1670" Text="Some Wolf camera shops are better than others ... in some cases they appear to have been real, higher end, camera shops that got bought out by Wolf and/or Ritz camera.  In other cases they are just 1 hour photo processors that also sell cameras." CreationDate="2010-07-30T18:23:35.207" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="1553" PostId="90" Score="1" Text="David's right ... Driver's control how hardware &amp; the OS interface.  What Rowland's talking about is the accessory software.  There's a significant difference.  Accessory software would work THROUGH the driver.  In the case of a 20D, the *driver* is built into the OS.  The accessory software may or may not support 64bit OS's.  It surprises me that Canon would abandon the 20D in the accessory software though." CreationDate="2010-07-30T18:31:55.207" UserId="644" />
  <row Id="1554" PostId="1693" Text="@Jerr Coffin: I have an Apple CinemaDisplay 30&quot;, which has a brightness of about 400cm/m^2. Most professional screens are rated for their maximum brightness, not their working brightness once calibrated. You want some leeway when purchasing a screen...you don't want to be capped at 110cd/m^2, however once calibrated, its likely you will adjust your brightness down from its maximum. My brightness (or rather, backlight, as there is just one setting) when properly calibrated is just under half its maximum, so its probably around 180cd/m^2. My work area is fairly bright as it is near windows." CreationDate="2010-07-30T18:35:09.647" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1555" PostId="1693" Text="@Matt: I've changed it to important. I've worked with LCD screens that did not fully support the Adobe RGB gamut but did support the sRGB gamut. My camera outputs RAW files in Adobe RGB. The result was often posterization in the greens and reds, which was terrible. If you want accurate color representation, its better to support a wider gamut like Adobe RGB than the rather narrow gamut of sRGB, otherwise you are going to end up clipping something somewhere. If you only do sRGB work, a lesser screen might be fine, but I would still recommend something with broader color range." CreationDate="2010-07-30T18:41:36.403" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1556" PostId="1724" Score="3" Text="How are you evaluating the sharpness? At display/print sizes? Or at 100% crops?  Looking at 100% crops can be deceiving unless you're very careful about the comparison." CreationDate="2010-07-30T18:58:54.950" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1557" PostId="1691" Text="@Guffa: Thanks for the help. I think I was using unsharp mask radically incorrectly before. With a radius of 1.3-1.5, sharpening looks much better. The 33% viewing trick is also pretty helpful. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:01:55.597" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1558" PostId="1255" Text="Thanks, I will try ffmpeg.  Fortunately, I'm comfortable with the commandline, and those options look like exactly what I was looking for." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:09:06.937" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="1559" PostId="1693" Text="@jrista - ta. But my point is that if you want accurate color representation of your output, rather than only on the screen in front of you, a wide-gamut monitor may not have any benefit in practice.  It really has to be thought of as just one part of a larger chain." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:15:08.013" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1560" PostId="1724" Score="2" Text="Are you shooting RAW or JPEG? If JPEG, check the in camera sharpness settings, you can usually tweak them. If you're shooting RAW, then they're naturally soft, you need to sharpen in post-processing because the camera isn't doing it for you." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:24:20.503" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1561" PostId="1734" Text="I don't think you need to apply the crop factor here. The size of the sensor effects field of view, it doesn't necessarily magnify the image." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:28:06.050" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1562" PostId="1734" Score="7" Text="Narrowing the field of view is magnifying the final image. It doesn't matter where the step occurs.&#xA;&#xA;Think about a P&amp;S with 6mm lens." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:30:04.127" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1563" PostId="1734" Text="How do you figure? If a full frame sensor has the same pixel density and size of photosite as the APS-C, then a 1.5 crop of it will have exactly the same image as the APS-C shot, ergo no magnification." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:34:59.247" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1564" PostId="1735" Score="1" Text="It should be 2 ^ image-stabillization stops." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:35:00.417" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1565" PostId="1734" Score="3" Text="The object on the APS-C shot will be larger relative to the overal frame due to the sensor-cropping, regardless of pixel densities and photosite size. If you print them both to a 8x12, an object will be larger on the APS-C shot. " CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:38:23.793" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1567" PostId="1737" Text="Also, see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1008/resource-for-photographers-rights-around-the-world" CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:41:24.737" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1568" PostId="1735" Text="Thank you, updated." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:42:51.613" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1569" PostId="1734" Text="But that's just, potentially, upsizing the image. If I printed that full frame crop at the same size it would still look the same. And yet, I only need 1/FL for the full frame and more for the APS-C to get steady, sharp, shot?" CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:46:26.113" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1570" PostId="1737" Text="so i can publish (share it on filter) photos (individuals, groups, children) taken in public (some event/gathering). though some of the pictures taken with the VERBAL consent?" CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:51:34.900" UserId="338" />
  <row Id="1571" PostId="1693" Text="@jrista: I think you should edit your answer a bit to make it clear you're talking about a maximum brightness rating, not the brightness you'd really use (and if you can't/don't control ambient light to the point that 110 cd/m^2 (or so) is adequate, that's the first thing you need to fix. There's no reasonable hope of consistent results if you can get direct sunlight on the monitor." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:54:37.157" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1572" PostId="206" Text="A monopod isn't really a &quot;hand-held&quot; technique..." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:55:08.183" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1573" PostId="1737" Text="Most likely yes, but I don't know your local law." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:58:29.830" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1574" PostId="1734" Score="2" Text="If you crop an image, you are increasing the magnification as you are zooming in on the image. The shake-induced blur will be magnified as well and the guideline, which is based on not cropping, applies less. The APS-C and cropped FF will look the same. Of course, as you crop, it will typically be obscured by pixel size, as larger format cameras tend to have lower pixel densities." CreationDate="2010-07-30T19:59:16.037" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1575" PostId="1737" Text="If taken in Virgina and does local law applies on Flickr and what  settings are best to avoid any law suit?   " CreationDate="2010-07-30T20:06:24.240" UserId="338" />
  <row Id="1576" PostId="1737" Text="@Ifi - too many variables to say for sure. If you have particular reason to be concerned, you need specific advice about your specific situation." CreationDate="2010-07-30T20:17:00.737" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1577" PostId="1693" Text="@matt: I've spent an extensive amount of money producing accurate prints, and that included my $1800 30&quot; Apple CinemaDisplay. I would not count the wide gamut as a detriment in any capacity, on the contrary I think it is a significant benefit. I know without a doubt that I'm looking at accurate colors, rather than clipped colors. I also have the option in Photoshop of rendering the images on screen with a printer profile and paper base tone, which correlates with printed images more closely. IMO, concretely limiting yourself is never a good idea...you can always approximate when you have more." CreationDate="2010-07-30T20:41:46.247" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1578" PostId="1693" Text="@Jerry: All of the statistics I have listed in my answer are the statistics a prospective buyer will see when they are looking at monitors online or in a store, not the calibrated values after purchasing a monitor. At least the way I've understood the question, the OP is looking to buy. If he needs detailed information about properly calibrating for maximum color accuracy, I would consider that a different question. " CreationDate="2010-07-30T20:44:16.630" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1579" PostId="1735" Score="3" Text="I'd suggest (a) clarifying that it's just a rule of thumb, not a guarantee and (b) that manufacturer claims on IS systems are often highly optimistic." CreationDate="2010-07-30T21:01:50.503" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1580" PostId="1734" Text="@John, Eruditass is right." CreationDate="2010-07-30T21:02:26.290" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1581" PostId="1743" Score="1" Text="+1 zillion - people vary!!" CreationDate="2010-07-30T21:03:02.123" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1582" PostId="1693" Text="@jrista: I guess that's fair enough, except that the number you've given rules out all the best displays. Just for a couple of obvious examples, the Eizo CG303W has a rating of 260 cd/m^2, and the LaCie 730 has a rating of 200 cd/m^2, yet they're arguably the two best photo-editing monitors you can get." CreationDate="2010-07-30T21:14:48.050" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1584" PostId="1713" Score="1" Text="I was surprised that a lot of the MacBook Pros even have 6 bit panels, like my MacBook Pro from late 2006." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:03:37.510" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1585" PostId="1693" Text="@Jerry: I've updated my answer to cover top of the line as well as middle grade professional. I guess I figured hardly any individual buys a $3000-$5000 screen, and I automatically excluded Eizo (and I hadn't heard of LaCie until now.) I hope the answer is more acceptable now." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:04:02.873" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1586" PostId="1735" Text="I would add to what Reid says and say that it also depends on you and how steady your hands are. If you take multiple shots (assuming your subject doesn't move!), you can sometimes get a sharp shot at longer shutter speeds." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:05:34.417" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1587" PostId="1707" Text="I can see experienced photographers getting much better photos with any camera (than beginners) but inexperienced photographers gaining experience more quickly with a DSLR than a P&amp;S." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:09:25.163" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1588" PostId="1734" Text="I let it drop, but there are some strange assumptions that don't bear out such cropping equals magnification... I'm not zooming by cropping, I'm cropping. I'm zooming if I resize an image, but then you'll introduce blur from the algorithm and how would you distinguish that from shake blur?" CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:09:46.053" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1589" PostId="1740" Text="+1 for the National security issue. A beautiful building in Pasadena overlooks the Arroyo and Colorado street bridge but it's a US Court of Appeals and you need permission from the judge to photograph it ... for National security purposes. (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Court_of_Appeals.jpg )" CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:11:49.483" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1590" PostId="1739" Score="3" Text="What an interesting and sort of sensible law!" CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:13:41.993" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1591" PostId="1724" Text="And various programs down sample and display photos in different ways, so you may want to add a small bit of sharpening to reductions unless the program does it for you." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:14:58.997" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="1592" PostId="1734" Text="@John: I believe you are thinking in terms of raw pixels and numbers, but we are projecting all of the pixels onto a common image physical image size in inches." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:36:22.300" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1593" PostId="1677" Text="+1 for the whole answer. I also like my 18-200, though I don't do a lot of landscape. My problem with it is slowness, which shouldn't bother you as much. It is a nice, relatively light lens though." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:49:00.960" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="1594" PostId="1663" Text="The main advantage of the two lens approach is a wider aperture at 55mm and around there. With the 18-200 you pretty quickly get to f/5.6 (I think around 120mm), where the 55-200 should be a little bit better at smaller focal lengths." CreationDate="2010-07-30T22:50:50.753" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="1595" PostId="1734" Text="Exactly! But this is not a result of magnification on the sensor, this is a result of software. In one you may have to scale it up, which introduces blur, and in other you may have to scale it down, which will sharpen. However, neither is related to the fact that a 100mm lens is still a 100mm lens, this is now in the realm of software and the degree of blur or sharpening is algorithmic. Your APS-C may magnify, but it's comparison based only. You may magnify against a Nikon D700, but you may not against a Canon 5D mk II." CreationDate="2010-07-30T23:35:15.270" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1596" PostId="1677" Text="Josh, could you expand on that 'slowness' comment? One of the main things I dislike about my existing 70-300 is how slow it is!" CreationDate="2010-07-31T00:07:58.453" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="1597" PostId="1734" Text="@John: It doesn't matter where the step occurs, it's still magnification (see my first comment).  Software or hardware, doesn't matter.  100mm lens is a 100mm lens.  The increasing focal length is the same thing as cropping which is the same thing as a teleconverter.  The guidelines are based on the magnification, but it is convenient to use FL, which is the same as cropping and adding a teleconverter.  They are just happing in different domains.  See my explanation here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor/1244#1244" CreationDate="2010-07-31T00:31:55.597" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1598" PostId="1737" Text="The US has some extra features - in that copyright of the exterior of a building belongs to the architect. However they are unlikely to stop you photographing the empire state building!" CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:07:43.117" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="1599" PostId="1739" Text="Franc has in theory the same law - although it is open to mis-use" CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:07:59.077" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="1600" PostId="1734" Text="You are looking at per-pixel sharpness (heavily dependent on photosite size and gives an unfair advantage to low density sensors), but we are looking at the final product in a normalized way, which is a more suitable point of comparison." CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:17:23.720" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1601" PostId="1656" Text="@Matthew Indeed, I purchased the S8000 to be a supplement to my D50, which I don't always have with me." CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:24:52.640" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="1602" PostId="1734" Text="I think my point is being missed... You're treating the scaling of the software as a reason to change your behaviour around shutter speed and lens length. This isn't about per pixel sharpness, it's about whether or not the sensor in question is more or less sensitive to the movement of the lens than another and, well, the crop factor of the sensor doesn't determine that. It's not possible that this is the case, the math and physics simply don't agree with it. " CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:29:09.743" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1603" PostId="1734" Text="Just to continue from above... The only way for that to be the case is to measure the ratio to some standard. If the standard for film, for example, is 4000 dpi and your sensor is 6000 dpi, then you have a 1.5 multiplier on your situation, presuming the lens can even resolve to that. Otherwise, for the same functional area, you have the same amount of capture or less, and thus the same amount of blur or less. That's physics, a light receptor of the same size can't be more sensitive to motion because of the dimensions of the plate that holds it." CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:34:17.313" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1604" PostId="1735" Text="Thanks for the suggestions! I agree that this 'rule' is just a starting point. If you have steady hands you can probably push it a bit, but knowing where to start is half the battle." CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:44:52.153" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1605" PostId="1623" Text="Absolutely agree with this. I have the 18-200, and it will just not work at all without a flash in low light. On the other hand if you have a decent flash you will still be able to get shots. I bought a used 70-200 f/2.8 for $1200, which is somewhat closer to your price range. You might try looking for a cheaper used lens. I have seen older 80-200 f/2.8's for around $800 US. They don't have VR though." CreationDate="2010-07-31T01:57:12.717" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="1606" PostId="1478" Text="Did you try the new LR catalog? I'm pretty sure LR caches some info in its catalog, which may include the date info." CreationDate="2010-07-31T02:16:18.477" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="1607" PostId="1721" Score="1" Text="Simple is right. The support ends at recognising RAW." CreationDate="2010-07-31T03:01:13.267" UserId="163" />
  <row Id="1608" PostId="1734" Text="@John, I am having some trouble deciphering some of your sentences.  I think the key to your understanding is extrapolation of the situation.  DPI is irrelevant: if you have a FF sensor, one with 1000 MP pixels, one with 10 MP, and a 10mm lens, the guideline will be the same for each one because the object will occupy the same relative space in the frame for each.  When printed or with the whole image on the screen, each object will occupy the same physical space.  On one, the object will have 100 times as many pixels in each dimension, but it doesn't matter.  " CreationDate="2010-07-31T03:15:02.980" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1610" PostId="1734" Text="Now, for a 10 MP FF sensor and a 10 MP 1/8&quot; sensor (crop factor of 21.65) with 10mm lenses, the guideline will be 1/10s and 1/216.5s. Why? If they both point at a man 5 ft away, one will the whole body and perhaps the photographer's own feet (a fisheye), while the other will be filled with a fraction of the man's face (with the field of view of a decent telephoto). On the Fuji S100FS, at 100mm, you can't hand hold it at 1/100, because it acts like a 400mm lens in magnification.  The focal length is a measure of magnification, and the crop factor is a measure of relative image magnification." CreationDate="2010-07-31T03:27:19.587" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1611" PostId="1734" Text="I am not saying light receptors of the same size are different in sensitivity to motion (this is per-pixel blur by the way).  I said for the same photosite size, a FF cropped to a APS-C will infact display the same amount of blur, both when viewing the whole image and in per-pixel.  You are down at the pixel level (a light receptor) when you need to think about how the light receptors work together to produce the image.  " CreationDate="2010-07-31T03:30:33.393" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1612" PostId="1734" Score="1" Text="The 1/focal length guide is an ESTIMATE! I can hand hold a little below the 1/FL rule on my crop sensor camera. So, for anyone who's confused by the crop sensor part, I'd say just ignore it. If you have a 200mm lens, start with the assumption that 1/200 is as slow as you should go. 100mm lens = 1/100.  And anything less than 1/60 is usually not handholdable.  Then experiment on your own and find out what works (reliably) for YOU; some people are more steady than others and as you learn better holding techniques you'll find you handhold at lower speeds than even the 1/FL rule on a crop camera." CreationDate="2010-07-31T05:07:34.923" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="1613" PostId="1459" Text="@jrista:  The end result is that when someone opens the image on their screen, they'll see that a RAW image that is not much different than the equivalent JPG ...I was just trying to clarify the difference in a more practical and less technical way.  " CreationDate="2010-07-31T05:11:59.240" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="1614" PostId="1578" Text="+1 Couldn't have said it better myself! I ran into the technological problem myself. My first photos were great, as they were simply off the cuff. I dove into the technical stuff far too early, though, and I've been digging myself out of that pit ever since. There probably isn't a technological detail I don't know something about now...but my images are lacking that raw artistic talent. Better to start with the art, and let the rest come." CreationDate="2010-07-31T05:46:29.243" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1615" PostId="1743" Text="Most cameras allow you to magnify the image you're viewing, so it's usually possible to check for pixel-level blur even without a computer." CreationDate="2010-07-31T06:06:40.060" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1616" PostId="1750" Text="As a quick example, this usually works approximately like this for me: &quot;It's dark, so I need a wide aperture.  People are in a group, so I can't go as wide as possible, to help keep them in all in focus.  Say f/4 minimum.  They'll be moving a little, but 1/60 or 1/125 should be sufficient.&quot;  Then I set the camera to those settings, and adjust the ISO until the meter says &quot;yes,&quot; hopefully - sometimes it just doesn't work out." CreationDate="2010-07-31T07:55:45.060" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1617" PostId="1755" Score="1" Text="Already covered here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-does-all-those-parts-in-a-lens-name-mean" CreationDate="2010-07-31T12:09:54.150" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1618" PostId="1753" Score="1" Text="I agree with Che, go the 40D route if the camera is in good condition and well treated, don't let the age of the camera fool you into thinking it's out of date. It it more than capable of taking high quality images." CreationDate="2010-07-31T13:14:58.670" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1619" PostId="1734" Text="@Eruditass All I'm trying to say is that a sensor can only magnify if it is capable of resolving more detail in the same physical space. At which point it may effect the 1/FL rule of thumb, but it is not specifically related to the physical size of the sensor. Basically, I agree with Erica, because of variations of sensors at each size, 1/FL is a starting point and then you must learn what your own skills and camera capability mix together to do." CreationDate="2010-07-31T13:33:32.477" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1620" PostId="1734" Text="Here's a site: http://enginova.com/Minimum%20Shutter%20Speed.htm that explains much, much, better than I have." CreationDate="2010-07-31T13:51:09.987" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1621" PostId="1754" Score="2" Text="+1 -- in addition, the 40D will be a bit more resistant to odd bumps and scraps, but it is important to always check the condition of second hand equipment - not everyone treats their camera as if it were their first born..." CreationDate="2010-07-31T14:11:56.817" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1622" PostId="1734" Text="@John: You are 100% correct in what you are saying.  I don't disagree with that.  With digital, many guidelines need to be changed, such as depth of field markings.  However, there is one point you are still missing.  We are mapping two different sizes (sensors) with identical resolving powers to the same size (a print).  The result is the on the print, the pixel spacing will no longer be equal.  The blur and resolution of the capture was the same, just one was blown up more to reach the print size, and thus the perceived magnification is different.   " CreationDate="2010-07-31T15:50:15.497" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1623" PostId="1734" Text="This remains true for all sensors and enargments that do not exceed a certain size.  John, your link is a DIFFERENT guideline for achieving MAXIMUM sharpness (not acceptable perceived sharpness).  This comes into play only when doing enlargements that are large enough that you are reaching the limits of captured resolution.  The APS-C and FF scenario do exactly as you state at a large enough print because your eyes are fully resolving the resolution. As  you shrink it beyond this point, APS-C's captured pixels will always be larger in physical space than FF's and you eyes are limited by that." CreationDate="2010-07-31T15:51:32.203" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1624" PostId="1734" Text="About your link, for such a technical analysis of the rule, I have to say I was dissapointed in his &quot;new&quot; rule of using 2 to 10 times the old rule!  Actually, he goes on to use megapixels as I expected.  For maximum sharpness, you can never depend on one variable for limiting the resolution.  He is depending on pixel spacing.  That is one hard limit, but often lens quality and diffraction step on that, especially with current P&amp;S models." CreationDate="2010-07-31T15:51:51.190" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1625" PostId="1734" Text="@Erica, exactly.  As I mentioned, everyone shakes different, and everyone even interacts with IS systems differently.  Best to go out and see what you're capable of." CreationDate="2010-07-31T15:53:21.577" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1626" PostId="1726" Score="2" Text="Good answer, but don't forget RAW/JPG issues.  If you go right to medium quality jpg in camera, the result won't be crisp, regardless of whatever else you do." CreationDate="2010-07-31T17:11:35.317" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1627" PostId="1753" Score="2" Text="FWIW, that's a good reason for choosing Canon gear." CreationDate="2010-07-31T18:46:20.333" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1628" PostId="1764" Score="1" Text="+1 Nice link :) Some good advice in that one" CreationDate="2010-07-31T19:06:31.337" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1629" PostId="1613" Text="I've now ordered the RS-7 - thanks for the info :)" CreationDate="2010-07-31T19:12:44.273" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1630" PostId="1768" Score="4" Text="What a waste of a 5D, being locked away for a year ;)" CreationDate="2010-07-31T19:53:53.757" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1631" PostId="1764" Text="Agreed, nice and well written: with pictures!" CreationDate="2010-07-31T20:49:43.170" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1632" PostId="1751" Text="Good answer.  Nitpick: in the table, f/8 should be f/11, since one stop in aperture is multiplying by factor of sqrt(2)." CreationDate="2010-07-31T20:59:55.873" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1633" PostId="1768" Score="1" Text="Agreed, next time someone has a 5D that they won't need for a year, feel free to send it to me :) I'll take good care of it..." CreationDate="2010-07-31T22:23:32.693" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1634" PostId="1256" Text="@Will: very lucky, rather." CreationDate="2010-07-31T22:31:04.077" UserId="479" />
  <row Id="1635" PostId="1664" Text="The LensRentals.com link is awesome." CreationDate="2010-07-31T22:33:59.753" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1636" PostId="1768" Text="Calling thirds on that, jeeze. A nice piece of gear sitting idle like that and not in my hands, it's a crying shame!" CreationDate="2010-08-01T01:03:40.830" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1637" PostId="1779" Score="1" Text="Please read: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/should-we-allow-questions-about-unreleased-cameras" CreationDate="2010-08-01T06:44:54.440" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1638" PostId="1780" Score="3" Text="This question is worded in a very subjective manner, you may want to consider rewording it so that it isn't subjective, or risk it being closed per the FAQ: http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq" CreationDate="2010-08-01T07:18:23.257" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1639" PostId="1783" Text="Added for clarity: looking though the viewfinder I see nothing but black.  I tried using Live View function to set focus, also, shooting wide open at 2.8 or 1.8 to gather the most amount of light in the shortest exposure so DoF is short, focus needs to be on." CreationDate="2010-08-01T07:43:11.980" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1640" PostId="1784" Text="Good suggestions.  There is so little light available that lens and focus screen combination render the viewfinder as nothing but a black frame. I added a comment to my question, I'm shooting wide open for short shutter speeds so that stars don't begin trailing." CreationDate="2010-08-01T07:53:12.627" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1641" PostId="1779" Text="He does ask a useful question about lens potential though." CreationDate="2010-08-01T11:25:31.207" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1642" PostId="323" Score="1" Text="I would argue that once you need the sophistication of the triggering options the 580 offers, you'll soon hit the limitations of the optical system and will want radio triggers. &#xA;&#xA;I'd choose the 580 for its power and speed, not for its role as a master flash in a multi-flash setup." CreationDate="2010-08-01T11:59:19.430" UserId="674" />
  <row Id="1643" PostId="1751" Text="Oops, my bad. Fixed." CreationDate="2010-08-01T14:29:18.983" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1644" PostId="1790" Text="Look here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-does-all-those-parts-in-a-lens-name-mean/508#508" CreationDate="2010-08-01T14:31:05.330" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1645" PostId="1790" Text="Thank you! Maybe, if this question is viable as stand-alone, you could make your tip as an answer? Or is it better to delete the question?" CreationDate="2010-08-01T14:40:54.247" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="1646" PostId="1790" Text="I think this question should stand - I've said why in detail at http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/199/should-we-allow-additional-brand-specific-questions-that-have-general-but-incomp" CreationDate="2010-08-01T15:11:02.270" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1647" PostId="1780" Text="I agree with Rowland that the current wording is bad. I'd say remove &quot;Are they easier or harder to work with than traditional SLRs?&quot; and expand on wanting advice for those moving from SLRs. If you did that I would say it should stand, but if it is unchanged for a while I'd say close it." CreationDate="2010-08-01T15:28:03.480" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1648" PostId="1779" Text="@fbreto, see also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses. w.r.t. the closing, I think it's a perfectly reasonable planning question. I voted to reopen." CreationDate="2010-08-01T16:03:51.537" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1649" PostId="1783" Text="Canon, go ahead and edit your clarification into the question." CreationDate="2010-08-01T16:08:53.777" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1650" PostId="1780" Text="Maybe you could say in more detail what motivates your questions. How, specifically, do you hope we can help you? e.g., are you considering a specific transition? what kind of photography would you like to do? etc." CreationDate="2010-08-01T16:11:09.063" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1651" PostId="1768" Score="2" Text="FWIW, all batteries use chemicals." CreationDate="2010-08-01T16:12:01.187" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1652" PostId="1282" Text="+1 for printing as one of several good ideas.  Sometimes, seeing an image on paper (even with just a cheap dot matrix printer) reveals flawed composition and other defects not obvious when shown on a computer screen." CreationDate="2010-08-01T16:38:30.967" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1653" PostId="1795" Score="2" Text="This trick also works for squinters in bright sunlight (see my answer here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1347/group-shots-on-a-bright-sunny-day/1352#1352).  Be aware that someone will inevitably mess it up, though, so you'll still need many shots.  " CreationDate="2010-08-01T17:28:20.033" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1654" PostId="1795" Score="4" Text="This is also great for getting that 'rabbit in the headlights' look. Not usually desirable for formal portraits, but sometimes works well for fashion!" CreationDate="2010-08-01T18:46:35.127" UserId="674" />
  <row Id="1655" PostId="183" Text="@Dave I agree - there are many techniques, each with its advantage and disadvantage." CreationDate="2010-08-01T18:59:31.370" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1656" PostId="1785" Score="1" Text="Aids like ST-E2 or those built-in in Canon flashes are quite useless when it comes to infinity, but they definitely help in case you need to focus on something a few meters away." CreationDate="2010-08-01T19:04:42.203" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1657" PostId="1792" Text="Thanks, your info is really helpful" CreationDate="2010-08-01T19:12:39.393" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="1658" PostId="82" Text="+1 Increasing the exposure time is NOT the only other option, but it will work in some cases (see my answers/comments above) and you were the first to suggest it here." CreationDate="2010-08-01T19:24:33.377" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1659" PostId="1801" Text="DXO Optics corrects fisheye distortion quite well (at least better than the photo.net example)." CreationDate="2010-08-01T19:58:41.000" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1660" PostId="1085" Score="1" Text="It probably works if you can get them to jump. Margaret Thatcher wouldn't. :) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stina_Lundberg_Dabrowski#The_Stina_jump.21" CreationDate="2010-08-01T21:53:15.677" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1661" PostId="1803" Text="+1 Beautiful examples, however the distortion is still noticeable.&#xA;- The panoramic views do however greatly distract you from it." CreationDate="2010-08-01T22:22:20.240" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1662" PostId="1801" Text="Getting rid of the distortion when you have information regarding the lenses is more accurate." CreationDate="2010-08-01T22:29:48.173" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1663" PostId="1803" Text="Excellent answer!  The only thing I'd add here is that even without using software to &quot;correc the distortion of a fisheye lens, you can crop out a horizontal band (e.g. the middle third of the frame) to make something that resembles a panorama.  There is the least distortion in that portion, and with high enough resolution many people will ask you what stitching software you used.&#xA;&#xA;Examples with my Nikon 10.5 fisheye on the D300:&#xA;http://picasaweb.google.com/naseer/Honeymoon#5282598504562128386&#xA;http://picasaweb.google.com/naseer/Japan2009Kansai#5398158831463975074" CreationDate="2010-08-02T01:42:52.760" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="1664" PostId="1721" Score="1" Text="I used this to process Nikon RAW for years, and thought it was perfectly adequate. Then I tried Lightroom, and saw an enormous difference in the quality of the RAW-&gt;JPG conversion.  I actually plan to re-convert all my Picasa-converted photos some day. &#xA;For some reason, Google has not invested much effort into fully decoding the NEF format, especially in the exposure arena.&#xA;&#xA;I'm actually not advocating for Lightroom, since that's not free.  If you own a Nikon, you should go download ViewNX, which they offer for free on their website.  It's the free version of their CaptureNX." CreationDate="2010-08-02T02:10:05.317" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="1665" PostId="1817" Score="2" Text="This is a hypothetical question that really can't be answered. It could make a mess of things, or it could produce a tack sharp image, or it could cause the camera to see through women's underwear. Who knows." CreationDate="2010-08-02T04:35:37.547" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1666" PostId="1817" Score="1" Text="It's hypothetical sure, but it can be answered." CreationDate="2010-08-02T04:51:01.693" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1667" PostId="1821" Text="I'd like to create tags &quot;photometry&quot; and &quot;calibration&quot;, maybe &quot;scientific usefulness&quot; or something, but I have too low points at this time!" CreationDate="2010-08-02T05:09:36.763" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1668" PostId="1821" Text="Many camera's now have an sRAW format, that might be a happy compromise. As you are probably aware, the reason why ordinary formats are smaller, is due to compression, so no matter how neutral the resultant jpeg is, there will still be dataloss on certain pixels of the image." CreationDate="2010-08-02T05:49:37.430" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1669" PostId="1817" Score="3" Text="@Reid: I disagree. The answer is &quot;it wholly depends on how it's implemented.&quot; Two disparate IS systems put together produce a certain result, however does that mean all in-lens/in-body combination's are doomed to fail? A system could conceivably devised that shares IS data between body and lens, but this is pure speculation. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T05:53:37.923" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1670" PostId="1817" Score="1" Text="@Alan: if it really could see through woman's underwear (and outerwear) it would already have been invented and we would not be having this discussion -- we'd be too busy to using it." CreationDate="2010-08-02T08:03:19.663" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="1672" PostId="1831" Text="Yep, 2 shots should do it. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T14:39:02.340" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1673" PostId="1838" Text="The title of this question would be better phrased as &quot;Is it possible to convert a film SLR to digital?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-02T14:57:34.167" UserId="674" />
  <row Id="1674" PostId="1838" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [Old reflex to digital](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1506/old-reflex-to-digital)" CreationDate="2010-08-02T15:03:25.713" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1675" PostId="1840" Text="It's a variety of old stuff...some cannon, some olympus, a few other odds and ends. I do have a D70 that's my primary DSLR, but I was wondering it the other was also possible. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T15:12:00.467" UserId="649" />
  <row Id="1676" PostId="159" Text="So it's a technique primarily used in a specialized field of photography that requires specialized software. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T16:11:14.783" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1677" PostId="1842" Score="1" Text="What does that mean, a family photoshoot?" CreationDate="2010-08-02T16:14:05.890" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1678" PostId="1829" Text="How can a RAW file contain a colorspace?" CreationDate="2010-08-02T16:16:23.140" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1679" PostId="1844" Score="1" Text="And some more patience..." CreationDate="2010-08-02T16:19:23.980" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1681" PostId="1842" Text="Sorry that wasn't more clear! I meant with children and pets. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T16:28:20.413" UserId="477" />
  <row Id="1682" PostId="1772" Text="I've chosen another answer as the accepted one, but yours is really nice in its conciseness. Piece of art. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-02T17:22:51.130" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="1683" PostId="1774" Text="Thanks, Alan, for sharing your experience and for such detailed answer. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T17:29:13.163" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="1684" PostId="1775" Text="Thank you, especially for links to examples. For me some shots from the second link seem more artistic than realistic, and unfortunately, that's why all collection looks more like good paintings than like good photographs." CreationDate="2010-08-02T17:35:58.440" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="1685" PostId="1842" Score="2" Text="This is rather subjective as it currently reads - you may want to consider re-wording so that it's more specific." CreationDate="2010-08-02T17:39:31.510" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1686" PostId="1851" Text="What do you mean by &quot;neutral&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-08-02T18:20:45.953" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1687" PostId="1849" Text="1.: Yes, tried. Didn't work.&#xA;2.: Yes, I have the eos-record app for the computer. When recording a movie the camera froze, too.&#xA;3.: I'm going to try that. But still seems weird that the camera stops working all the sudden.&#xA;4.: Yes, tried two different lenses.&#xA;&#xA;If nothing works I will have to send it in for repair. Or since my warranty is still valid for replacement." CreationDate="2010-08-02T18:26:57.873" UserId="683" />
  <row Id="1688" PostId="1838" Score="1" Text="@Guffa possible duplicate question, but a MUCH better answer; the accepted answwer on the other one advises googling for something that doesn't exist." CreationDate="2010-08-02T18:42:38.513" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1689" PostId="1842" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What are must have accessories?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/172/what-are-must-have-accessories)" CreationDate="2010-08-02T18:47:03.620" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1690" PostId="1829" Text="I can select the colorspace in the camera.  I'm not sure if it's choosing that colorspace just to render in lightroom, of not.  There's no easy way for me to tell which colorspace is which, just that they are different." CreationDate="2010-08-02T18:54:43.903" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1691" PostId="1863" Text="+1 nice answers :P" CreationDate="2010-08-02T19:52:19.990" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1692" PostId="1867" Score="1" Text="Also helps in the sun, or any other situation where the subjects have distracting shadows." CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:06:45.807" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1693" PostId="910" Text="Great explanation. It's also not limited to autofocus, but applies equally to any focusing mechanism, e.g., a bad rangefinder cam, a misadjusted mirror on an SLR, and so forth can all cause back-focus. Some photographers have regularly had their lenses/cameras individually calibrated to each other for just this reason.  " CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:13:28.223" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1694" PostId="1867" Text="Thank you! I guess I was confused. Well then, when should a stronger flash be utilized? I have seen them in my local camera store - they mount to the top of the camera. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:14:51.870" UserId="477" />
  <row Id="1695" PostId="1775" Text="@rem: something I probably should have noted about the second set by Vincent Favre. The &quot;artistic&quot; look to those is still mostly optical. That vibrant colored look is generally achieved through longer exposures supported by ND (neutral density) filters placed in front of the lens. Various long-exposure ND filters tend to add their own color casts (i.e. enhance vibrant blues and purples and pinks) or deepen color that is there. You get the ability to add an artistic touch to an image like that without having to do it all post-process. Most of Vincent's images use an ND filter for better look." CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:34:03.057" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1696" PostId="1817" Text="I have to agree with Alan...this is hypothetical, and it really doesn't have a decent answer. The answers that have been provided are all pretty speculative. " CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:37:56.480" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1697" PostId="434" Text="@che: a very good point, and it illustrates why it's better to sink your money into lighting vs a camera." CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:43:02.240" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1698" PostId="1775" Text="@rem: I guess it should also be noted that the time of day, angle of a shot, and altitude all play a role on the ultimate lighting you get in a landscape shot. Morning/sunrise shots tend to get you brighter yellow lighting, sometimes vibrantly yellow and orangish. Evening/sunset shots tend to be more red-shifted, and can give you some of the most vibrant red and pink hues. ND filters can &quot;pull&quot; out more saturation from such scenes, but in general, the setting and the time of day make an incredible difference how the resulting image looks, and even vibrant scenes like Vincent's are still real." CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:43:27.917" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1699" PostId="1867" Score="2" Text="@Heidiphoto They're known more as &quot;flashguns&quot; or &quot;hotshoe flashes&quot; (and why you'd want one is almost a question in itself). The short version is that not all cameras have an integrated flash, and dedicated flashes can support more features." CreationDate="2010-08-02T20:47:03.227" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1700" PostId="1822" Score="3" Text="The donut bokeh can be really cool with the right shot:&#xA;&#xA;http://abbazz.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p293409921.jpg" CreationDate="2010-08-02T21:09:26.060" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1701" PostId="1334" Text="+1 for mentioning sensor size, as it's hugely important. Unfortunately it's probably not practical for the original poster. :-P" CreationDate="2010-08-02T21:55:03.810" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1702" PostId="1730" Score="1" Text="The 50mm prime lens for most cameras/systems is pretty much the cheapest you can buy, and also one of the sharpest." CreationDate="2010-08-02T21:57:30.517" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1703" PostId="193" Score="1" Text="Noise almost always refers to electrical or optical interference on the sensor itself. Stabilizing the camera won't help this. In fact, a longer exposure time will actually *increase* noise. Perhaps you're referring to blur?" CreationDate="2010-08-02T22:00:56.040" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1704" PostId="1851" Score="1" Text="Mostly they are beige, ivory, taupe, black, gray, and white. My suggestion assumes that the client does not know what to wear or indifferent about it. But some times some clients feel strongly about some particular colors (for whatever reason: alma mater colors, gothic, etc) and in that situation it should be up to the photographer to adjust." CreationDate="2010-08-02T22:16:04.780" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1705" PostId="1871" Score="1" Text="In terms of software, I've been pretty impressed with the noise removal in Lightroom 3. so I'd recommend that, for lots of reason as well - not just the noise removal." CreationDate="2010-08-02T22:21:20.703" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="1706" PostId="1827" Text="Good explanation!" CreationDate="2010-08-02T22:26:42.540" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1707" PostId="893" Score="3" Text="I noticed che's comment from a while back. Billboards probably are not really an area where large format is necessary. In addition to the high fasion ad market, which is pretty large, there are also large landscape renditions for artwork often seen in corporate business offices (at least in America.) For example, my own company has numerous very large prints of John Fielder's landscape work. I believe a lot of that work is taken with 4x5 large format film, which makes it easier to blow up to gargantuan, multi-foot dimensions." CreationDate="2010-08-02T22:47:10.473" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1708" PostId="1775" Text="Thank you! Your detailed explanation help me to understand the art and nature of photography." CreationDate="2010-08-02T23:31:45.990" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="1709" PostId="97" Text="Some newer high end cameras are actually using actively cooled sensors now to control noise. Its probably cost prohibitive at the moment, but something to keep an eye out for, as it will probably become more common as it gets cheaper to do." CreationDate="2010-08-02T23:42:04.833" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1710" PostId="183" Score="2" Text="I've added quotations of the parts of the article I think are most useful in describing Dave's point. Hopefully that will keep this answer useful even if the linked site ever goes offline." CreationDate="2010-08-02T23:50:51.213" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1711" PostId="183" Text="@Danny: Exposing to the right &quot;may&quot; increase motion blur, I don't think there is any guarantee that it will. So long as your shutter speed remains high enough, exposing to the right should not in and of itself increase motion blur." CreationDate="2010-08-02T23:53:08.527" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1712" PostId="1334" Text="I think it should be noted that it is less so the sensor size, and more so the size and density of the photosites on the sensor that matter. You could have an 8mp sensor on both a full frame and an APS-C, and the full frame will have better noise performance because of the larger and less dense photosites." CreationDate="2010-08-02T23:54:24.047" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1713" PostId="1871" Score="2" Text="It should be noted that this removal of noise with post processing has downsides of its own, as fine detail is often identified as noise by software, and may be eliminated. Significant noise reduction in any image generally has the effect of reducing image sharpness, and many tools often add artifacts of their own when doing extensive noise reduction. Unlike adjustments to white balance, exposure, etc. in a raw file, removal of noise is not a lossless process. I recommend it when you have a minor to moderate need, but I would do everything you can to eliminate noise when taking a shot." CreationDate="2010-08-03T00:00:51.397" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1714" PostId="1775" Text="Glad to be of service. :) One other thing I should mention. The flower shots from the gallery I linked in &quot;Stunningly Realistic&quot;...they are all real, with perhaps a very slight enhancement to saturation post-process. The artistic look of those shots is largely done through composition (positioning the subject in the frame) and depth of field. Again, like post processing, the concepts of composition and choosing a good depth of field are all tools in the photographers toolbox. My ultimate recommendation: Use **ALL** the tools at your disposal to maximize your potential." CreationDate="2010-08-03T00:03:35.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1715" PostId="1872" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What are your preferred filters for certain subjects?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/356/what-are-your-preferred-filters-for-certain-subjects)" CreationDate="2010-08-03T02:22:26.250" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1716" PostId="1872" Score="4" Text="I tend to disagree chills42, it's a good question that can be answered beyond digital, which the linked question is specific to based on the follow-up commentary." CreationDate="2010-08-03T03:14:30.780" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1717" PostId="1874" Score="1" Text="+1, though I have to disagree on one point: even if you prefer to use a filter to protect your lens, its utility is *still* approximately negative 10." CreationDate="2010-08-03T04:26:14.030" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1718" PostId="1822" Text="You could make an off-axis parabolic mirror with no central obstruction - also catadioptric lenses have power in both the mirror and lenses" CreationDate="2010-08-03T04:45:37.113" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="1719" PostId="1822" Text="@mgb: while marginally practical for direct-observation, an off-axis mirror system seems nearly untenable for photography (instead of shooting forward, you'd basically end up shooting back over your shoulder. Yes, cats use both mirrors and lenses (which has one major consequence: you still get some chromatic aberration, which a purely mirror-based system eliminates." CreationDate="2010-08-03T05:06:40.780" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="1720" PostId="789" Text="+1, great info. You should ask this as a separate question and post this answer as the answer to give it more prominence." CreationDate="2010-08-03T05:30:05.140" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="1721" PostId="1828" Text="ummm..... it's a relief to know I can get a linear sensor free of hot pixels for only $20k/chip... uh, I guess I'll be paying closer attention to the second half of your answer.  It would be a fine way to spend an hour one weekend to make this calibration curve.  Finding a light source of known output may be an interesting task in itself." CreationDate="2010-08-03T06:23:32.980" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="1722" PostId="1334" Text="@jrista Indeed, and that bigger sensor gives you a wider field of view, so you have to increase your focal length to get the same field of view. But this results in a smaller depth of field, so you have to close down your aperture, resulting in longer exposures, so you have to up your ISO again to compensate for that. If you want keep the same look, that is." CreationDate="2010-08-03T06:51:12.020" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1723" PostId="1881" Text="Thanks for the advice! I wish I could accept both answers, but sadly, I can't :)" CreationDate="2010-08-03T08:32:53.617" UserId="176" />
  <row Id="1724" PostId="1882" Text="Awesome! Thank you!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T08:33:12.870" UserId="176" />
  <row Id="1725" PostId="1856" Text="When is size not important?" CreationDate="2010-08-03T08:34:52.053" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="1726" PostId="1835" Text="I think that Lightroom and Photoshop are positioned for different user bases.  While there will always and inevitably be an overlap, and therefore people who want or need both, most users will only need one.  Lightroom is more for &quot;photo developing&quot; while Photoshop is for &quot;photo manipulation&quot;.  But I can see your point: I doubt the much talked about &quot;intelligent fill&quot; feature in Photoshop CS5 will make it into Lightroom in the near future.  And that is one feature I can see a lot of Lightroom users wanting." CreationDate="2010-08-03T08:50:32.017" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="1727" PostId="1882" Score="1" Text="Great way to illustrate the answer -- what did you do them with?" CreationDate="2010-08-03T10:08:41.923" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1728" PostId="1857" Text="I believe it's the same with iPhoto, you can choose to import photos in their current directory but if you choose that option you can't delete the actual files from within iPhoto and I assume it's the same with Aperture. I'll try it out." CreationDate="2010-08-03T10:16:34.773" UserId="253" />
  <row Id="1729" PostId="159" Text="@Dave Yes that is correct. Although the technique could be used for any low-light environment with non-moving objects." CreationDate="2010-08-03T10:26:09.260" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1730" PostId="1882" Text="+1: Good use of illustrations!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T10:30:28.750" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1731" PostId="1822" Text="Positive points for mirror lenses are reduced weight and length. This Samyang 800mm lens is only 114mm long: http://www.samyang.pl/product,144,category,5,samyang_800mm_mc_if_f8_mirror" CreationDate="2010-08-03T10:57:31.227" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="1732" PostId="1856" Text="When you not concerned with the size/weight of your equipment. For instance, if I am at home or at a specific event, I would rather have a better camera, but if I am out doing street photography or on a hike I may be concerned with the size." CreationDate="2010-08-03T11:53:51.373" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1733" PostId="134" Score="2" Text="&quot;Could you rephrase that as more of an ethical question?&quot; &quot;Ok, is it *right* to buy a Chrysler?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-03T13:36:02.907" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="1734" PostId="1856" Text="The absence of the rangefinder is actually a pretty big deal, I hadn't thought about that. My old Olympus E-10 was an early DSLRs to have live preview, which boasted in doing TTL-focusing. I found it so much more comfortable to use than other models, especially in macro." CreationDate="2010-08-03T13:41:45.467" UserId="692" />
  <row Id="1735" PostId="1844" Text="Patience.  Definitely patience." CreationDate="2010-08-03T13:50:31.110" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1736" PostId="1892" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/570/what-attributes-should-i-look-when-buying-batteries-for-a-speedlite-speedlight - it's not exactly your question, but the answers will help you I think." CreationDate="2010-08-03T15:27:12.820" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1737" PostId="1896" Text="I agree. The best way is to get a charger that will tell you if the battery is dead. The best I have found is by La Crosse. http://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-BC-700-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1280852530&amp;sr=1-2" CreationDate="2010-08-03T16:22:43.100" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1738" PostId="1334" Text="@Dave: I think that is a highly subjective concept there. I seriously doubt the idea that one would always try to make a full-frame sensor &quot;behave&quot; like an APS-C sensor. Sure, if you want identical field of view and depth of field and overall exposure, sure, you mitigate some (some, probably not all) of the gains a better sensor has to offer. I seriously doubt such a scenario is very realistic, however. I currently use an APS-C size sensor, and while it is great for wildlife shots, when I move to a full-frame, I will do so **because** of the wider field of view, not to keep the same FOV/DOF." CreationDate="2010-08-03T16:38:00.097" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1739" PostId="1828" Text="Yeah, it turns out that photon counting isn't a very easy thing to do outside of a lab environment.  One light source of known output would be a laser pointer; that should be pretty stable, known wattage, etc.  Trying to flatten a laser output across the whole image might be interesting, maybe by using a fogged mirror or something. " CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:24:23.387" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1740" PostId="1895" Text="Keeping sets together is a problem, two pre-teen kids in the house tend to grab whatever is in the charger when they need something.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:24:57.707" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="1741" PostId="1831" Text="Thanks for the approval :)  But as I said, my photoshop-fu is weak on this.  Can you please post a tutorial?" CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:31:25.770" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1742" PostId="1808" Text="Yes, I suspected as much, that it wouldn't be posible in a single shot.  At least, not without some huge high-dynamic range camera (18 stops, maybe?)" CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:35:03.207" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1743" PostId="330" Score="4" Text="Given Facebook's photo and content licensing, I don't think it can ever be a good general recommendation." CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:43:43.153" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1744" PostId="1876" Score="1" Text="Additionally I use my ND filters so I can open up the aperture wider in bright conditions.  I can get a short depth of field for outdoor portraits." CreationDate="2010-08-03T17:48:42.883" UserId="687" />
  <row Id="1745" PostId="1334" Text="I'm only trying to make the point that when you change something on one aspect, you also change something in another aspect. Everything's related, and the subjective thing is what you want to get out of it." CreationDate="2010-08-03T18:10:42.200" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1746" PostId="1352" Text="I've had mixed results, sometimes that same joker will open their eyes much wider than others, resulting in a wide-eyed, surprised expression.  Unsure if that's better than squinting, hehe" CreationDate="2010-08-03T18:40:40.440" UserId="626" />
  <row Id="1747" PostId="1352" Text="Well, ultimately, it's a photo of him/her, so I guess the joke's on them :)" CreationDate="2010-08-03T18:43:14.773" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1748" PostId="1903" Score="1" Text="+1 For the budget in question, this kind of setup is hard to beat." CreationDate="2010-08-03T18:54:17.160" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1749" PostId="1876" Text="@infamouse: Yeah, another good use for them. Mine has primarily been to drop shutter speed, but opening up the aperture would also be a use." CreationDate="2010-08-03T18:56:18.797" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1750" PostId="1903" Score="1" Text="+1 for the suggestion, beat me to it." CreationDate="2010-08-03T18:57:35.843" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1751" PostId="1906" Text="That is indeed in my budget.  I shall look to reviews!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T19:20:24.327" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1752" PostId="1903" Text="+1 agreed 100%!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T19:38:08.420" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1753" PostId="1914" Score="2" Text="That's impossible to say without knowing your reason to consider a change. What are you looking for?" CreationDate="2010-08-03T19:54:36.443" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1754" PostId="1913" Text="Wow, thanks for the thorough and detailed response!  I'll definitely have to see if I can get some samples.  You're right, I don't need business class, but I do want to step up from the r800 in terms of ink viability and paper sizes." CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:13:44.447" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1755" PostId="1903" Text="I think all of us old-schoolers started with clamp lights,  mine were incandesent, because CFLs weren't common yet!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:17:20.913" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="1756" PostId="1905" Text="What color temp are Halogen work lights?  I have a set, but it never occurred to me to use them for photography" CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:18:19.197" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="1757" PostId="1905" Text="According to Sylvania, standard halogen is between 2800 and 3400 K. I have the Lastolite XpoBalance which I use with the various lights I have to fine tune the choice." CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:25:38.213" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1758" PostId="1918" Text="That's what I was thinking too - wait and save some more and get 14-24 all the way. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:27:41.767" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1759" PostId="1914" Text="There is no strong reason - but merely updating. It looks like 17-35 is still in demand that I can sell mine and get a NEW 16-35 with new 5 year Nikon USA warranty without losing a dime. " CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:31:13.773" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1760" PostId="1919" Text="My &quot;weak&quot; reason is basically for &quot;updating&quot;. My warranty for my lens is over and although there is nothing wrong with my 17-35, I can still sell it for a good price and get a new 16-35 (with 5 year warranty) without losing a dime. " CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:32:43.660" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1761" PostId="1862" Text="Any reason not going with PW instead?" CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:41:10.850" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1762" PostId="1913" Text="The Canon PIXMA 9500 Pro or the Epson R2880 are both great printers with wide print size versatility (up to 13x19&quot;, or A3+, I believe.) They are well within your price range, and offer excellent tonal range. The type of work you do may dictate which one you choose. The Canon has a red and green ink pigment, which allow for extended gamut in those areas. Excellent for landscapes. The Epson, on the other hand, has greater tonal range in the blues &amp; violets, or oranges (depends on the model.) That makes it better for floral closeups, sea and coral reef shots, anything very vibrant, or portraints." CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:43:05.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1763" PostId="1862" Text="Mainly cost and features. " CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:46:38.500" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1764" PostId="1910" Score="1" Text="Seems to duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/191/which-camera-bag-for-a-single-dslr-camera-plus-2-lenses and to a lesser extent: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1504/non-camera-bag-suggestion" CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:54:27.143" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1765" PostId="1076" Text="Sounds like Ken Rockwell to me, although I can't find the source." CreationDate="2010-08-03T20:54:45.647" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1766" PostId="1256" Text="I think on the second two photos, your shutterspeed might be too fast. The rain drops appear as points, not moving drops. It's one of those cases where the camera is faster than the human eye, and therefore what is an accurate reflection of reality doesn't look like reality. So, I guess fast, but not too fast shutterspeed might help." CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:04:30.947" UserId="649" />
  <row Id="1767" PostId="1919" Score="1" Text="You're correct; that's a pretty weak reason. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:08:54.663" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1768" PostId="1922" Score="1" Text="I thought it was because of the 'Prime' cost! " CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:20:06.687" UserId="265" />
  <row Id="1769" PostId="1922" Score="3" Text="@Chuck: Craigslist is your friend! I've bought a few prime lenses, used, on there and saved a bundle. Upside to being a Pentax shooter is all these people selling their parent's old gear with no idea what gems they sometimes include." CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:31:10.987" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1770" PostId="1490" Text="+1 I think this is the best answer here. It carefully describes a technique, and demonstrates it with an example. I really wish we had more answers like this one. Fantastic answer, Che!" CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:42:37.467" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1771" PostId="1505" Text="Nokia is a brand...but is there a specific software platform your looking for? Most of these kinds of applications are probably going to be written for iPhone, Android, and soon enough Windows Phone 7, as these are the most versatile and easy to develop for platforms. Anything else is likely to be rather obscure." CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:44:33.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1773" PostId="330" Text="What kind of licensing? The parts I found at http://www.facebook.com/terms.php is basically minimal stuff necessary to show your uploaded pics to people and include your profile picture on 3rd party sites with &quot;social plugins&quot;, or how it's called." CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:53:29.283" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1774" PostId="1918" Text="+1 Can't resist up-voting someone who makes perfect use of `cockamamie` in a sentence. :D Beyond that, excellent answer to what I think was a rather difficult question." CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:53:34.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1775" PostId="1882" Text="@Rowland: http://www.lightingdiagrams.com/ and GIMP for added notes (and crop, which removed the original link to diagram creator -- sorry about that)." CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:54:32.437" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1776" PostId="1914" Text="I gave this an upvote since, while the question is kind of difficult to answer, Alan provided an excellent one that serves a good purpose given the dangers involved in choosing a lens &quot;by MTF chart&quot;. I can easily see many people in the same position, debating an &quot;upgrade&quot; due to some raving review, without giving their current lens its due. " CreationDate="2010-08-03T21:55:45.523" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1777" PostId="346" Score="2" Text="+1 DropBox is a great recommendation for &quot;sending it to Uncle Jim&quot; quickly and simply.  Small correction though: Flickr provides 'guest passes' - simple URLs you can send to anyone, account or not. I don't find it as convenient as DropBox, but it is available." CreationDate="2010-08-03T22:05:35.607" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1778" PostId="1897" Score="1" Text="+1 For experimentation and exploration. Despite the technicalities that drive a histogram, there is a fundamental instinctual sense that a photographer should have when reviewing their histogram. Understanding what your goals are and how the histogram reflects those goals is something you just have to learn by experimentation and exploration." CreationDate="2010-08-03T22:16:20.493" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1779" PostId="1918" Text="@jrista: thanks :). I have to admit, even I got caught up in the 14-24mm on a Canon madness for a bit. There are some rumors that Canon is going to announce a lens in that range, so it should make things interesting." CreationDate="2010-08-03T23:31:58.100" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1780" PostId="1918" Text="@Alan: Aye, I would love a super-wide zoom. I am not quite brave enough to go cockamamie on my camera's bayonett, but the ultra wide has always fascinated me. I have the 16-35mm, which is a phenomenal lens, but it does have its soft points." CreationDate="2010-08-03T23:55:55.860" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1781" PostId="1876" Text="Thank you John for the detailed answer. Almost exactly what I was looking for!" CreationDate="2010-08-04T01:02:12.910" UserId="688" />
  <row Id="1782" PostId="1876" Text="@Tushar: Happy to help." CreationDate="2010-08-04T01:44:58.100" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1783" PostId="342" Text="I would be surprised if most readers agreed with you that sharing 5 photos or fewer is a standard (or sufficient) use case." CreationDate="2010-08-04T03:55:27.403" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="1784" PostId="1803" Text="Nice explanation, and superb photos. Looks as if the distortion is not always obvious, but you still get the wide shot anyway :)" CreationDate="2010-08-04T04:30:57.990" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="1785" PostId="783" Text="@jrista: thanks! Now I need to read about lens speed and glass density!" CreationDate="2010-08-04T05:16:41.720" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="1786" PostId="62" Text="Only you can tell if it's worthwhile for you or not, so I'd suggest to reword the question to &quot;what are the pros and cons of switching to DNG?&quot;." CreationDate="2010-08-04T05:54:53.703" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1787" PostId="802" Text="@Alan: thanks! What is a good place to search for those kits that you mentioned? I am looking at the Canon site and their kit just has a body and a lens and nothing else." CreationDate="2010-08-04T06:30:50.320" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="1788" PostId="835" Text="@kristof: thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-04T06:32:04.717" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="1789" PostId="1932" Text="Buying the outgoing model at a discount is a really great strategy for those working to a budget. When the 60D hits the streets, retailers will start clearing stock of the 50D. That's a great time to pick up a bargain on a 50D." CreationDate="2010-08-04T07:19:15.483" UserId="674" />
  <row Id="1790" PostId="193" Text="@Craig Walker: A longer exposure means you can change the ISO to a less noisy setting.." CreationDate="2010-08-04T07:25:23.410" UserId="711" />
  <row Id="1791" PostId="1932" Text="Not just retailers. Gearheads will be dropping minty bodies on Buy and Sell forums left and right. Buying used from a reputable seller is also a great way to save cash." CreationDate="2010-08-04T08:08:27.617" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1792" PostId="802" Text="@Lazer: I recommend checking out the big online retailers: BH Photo Video, Canoga Camera, and Adorama (although Adorama is a distant 3rd, in my opinion). I've purchased from all three, and all three are reputable sellers. " CreationDate="2010-08-04T08:10:08.393" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1793" PostId="1420" Text="Great link - Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-04T09:40:06.900" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="1794" PostId="1907" Text="I would prefer newer RF-602 triggers, much less issues." CreationDate="2010-08-04T10:27:29.320" UserId="729" />
  <row Id="1795" PostId="1941" Score="5" Text="Well, it can at least be definitely stated that using a filter as lens protection can not be emulated in post-processing. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-04T11:08:02.130" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1796" PostId="1940" Text="This may be better worded with the title in the form &quot;How do I ... ?&quot; rather than as a statement, that could be interpreted as subjective" CreationDate="2010-08-04T11:48:04.707" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1797" PostId="1922" Text="@Chuck Canon's cheapest lens is a prime..." CreationDate="2010-08-04T11:51:39.927" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1799" PostId="211" Score="1" Text="This bag is great for photography while hiking or site seeing, it makes it so easy to swing the bag in front and grab your camera, with out dropping everything out of the bag. I a huge fan." CreationDate="2010-08-04T12:39:07.490" UserId="296" />
  <row Id="1800" PostId="1947" Text="Actually, I've always heard that digital sensors are _very_ sensitive to UV light, and therefore have built-in UV filters. (Not sure if that's actually true or not, it's just what I've been told.)" CreationDate="2010-08-04T12:40:37.720" UserId="746" />
  <row Id="1801" PostId="133" Text="DNG is an open standart, unlike proprietary raw formats." CreationDate="2010-08-04T12:48:58.547" UserId="748" />
  <row Id="1802" PostId="1940" Score="2" Text="I am curious as well to the answer to this question. " CreationDate="2010-08-04T12:59:12.893" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1803" PostId="1947" Score="1" Text="@bcat: That may be the case for some specific sensor, but most information I find on the subject says that digital sensors generally are a lot less sensetive to UV light. They are much more sensetive to IR light, though, and most have an IR filter in front of the sensor." CreationDate="2010-08-04T13:25:38.990" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1804" PostId="1947" Text="@Guffa: Ah, maybe that's what I was thinking of." CreationDate="2010-08-04T13:35:43.103" UserId="746" />
  <row Id="1806" PostId="1938" Text="Related question, though not an exact duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/586/are-colour-filters-worth-using-with-digital-cameras" CreationDate="2010-08-04T13:52:24.723" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1807" PostId="133" Text="For what it's worth, I can still play Sim City on a DOS 6.22 computer I have in my closet, perhaps even in Parallels on my Macbook; although I've never tried.&#xA;&#xA;My point is, if you need to read an old file format, you can do it using equipment or software from that era and export to something more current or useful.&#xA;&#xA;As long as the media in which you stored the files current.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-04T13:59:57.767" UserId="626" />
  <row Id="1808" PostId="1625" Score="1" Text="I find IR to be a good additional resource to dpreview as they tend to have reviews for a lot of the models missing from dpreview." CreationDate="2010-08-04T14:40:18.500" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="1809" PostId="1956" Text="M42 lenses are great fun but bit tricky to focus quickly, even with a AF confirm adapter." CreationDate="2010-08-04T15:02:14.243" UserId="729" />
  <row Id="1810" PostId="1903" Text="This setup works well with a lightbox.  &#xA;http://flic.kr/p/8n37gH  &#xA;&#xA;It doesn't provide very much light for portraits, though. Sufficient continuous lighting gets hot. I think a cheap 3rd party flash on a lightstand with a sync cable would be better for portraits." CreationDate="2010-08-04T15:14:23.787" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="1811" PostId="1941" Text="LOL, +1 for making me laugh." CreationDate="2010-08-04T15:22:30.930" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1812" PostId="1717" Text="Converted to community wiki since there is no single clear answer." CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:24:11.687" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1813" PostId="1970" Text="Thanks for explaining your personal experience - very helpful.  In fact, I also have a 5DmkII with a 32GB card, and I keep a few of my &quot;old&quot; 4GB cards around for when I run out of space - but that hasn't happenned yet.  " CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:32:03.893" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1814" PostId="1966" Text="Thanks for taking the time to set out all the pros and cons - exactly what I was after.  Really helpful." CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:32:42.037" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1815" PostId="1965" Text="Yes - I don't like the idea of running out of space and having nowhere to go.  Great point.  " CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:33:26.060" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1816" PostId="1956" Text="They can be tricky but the price is certainly right." CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:47:27.137" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="1817" PostId="707" Text="Excellent points! " CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:48:02.220" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1818" PostId="879" Text="You are making a comparison between a fixed-focal macro and zooms though... Canon also has the 100mm f/2.0 USM, which is indeed faster." CreationDate="2010-08-04T16:55:07.877" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1819" PostId="1795" Score="2" Text="I have heard this one from Scott Kelby (http://scottkelby.com)" CreationDate="2010-08-04T17:03:52.793" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1820" PostId="1736" Score="9" Text="It's doubtful that anyone can give you legal advice here, only guidelines. You'll need to talk to a lawyer if you need to be absolutely sure." CreationDate="2010-08-04T17:16:30.540" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="1821" PostId="1966" Text="You're welcome! I went through the thought process myself when I decided on how to by cards." CreationDate="2010-08-04T17:28:18.260" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1823" PostId="1976" Text="Thanks for your answer.  I'm new to DSLR photography and I know picasa isn't great for RAW but it handles my needs for JPEG.  At the same time I want to make sure I hold on to my RAW files in case I ever want to process them.  What external tool are you using?" CreationDate="2010-08-04T18:26:09.423" UserId="777" />
  <row Id="1825" PostId="787" Text="@Dave - just as an aside, yes, essentially all film ever made can still be developed with existing methods, at least to produce a black-and-white negative, as all film processes rely on silver halides for their initial latent image.  E.g., if you find a roll of Kodachrome sometime after processing is discontinued in December 2010, that will be one of your options." CreationDate="2010-08-04T19:19:25.153" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1827" PostId="159" Text="That is incorrect, some cameras have some built in capability and they are getting better. I have also read a Microsoft Research paper from SIGGRAPH on how to enhance images using images from a video clip, including improving the lighting and reducing blur, either globally or locally (for only one object or the entire scene)." CreationDate="2010-08-04T19:28:16.510" UserId="106" />
  <row Id="1828" PostId="298" Score="5" Text="I disagree. Flickr doesn't offer an easy way to restrict the view of a gallery to many peoples except if they all have a flick account." CreationDate="2010-08-04T19:36:57.257" UserId="765" />
  <row Id="1829" PostId="1899" Text="It probably doesn't matter a whole lot, but I wondered if the lighting is uneven, if it will be a bit more work to select the background." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:04:41.087" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1830" PostId="1855" Text="On subject clothing, the Chromakey Suits come to mind (e.g. http://www.chromakeysuit.com/)." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:06:03.130" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1831" PostId="1990" Text="Agree with John. I formatted my card once (in the camera) prior to using it the first time. " CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:18:05.197" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1832" PostId="1990" Text="I added a reference to Ken Rockwell's site where he recommends formatting." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:26:17.160" UserId="607" />
  <row Id="1833" PostId="1988" Text="Nikon is covering their rear end, there's no technical reason for this but lets them out if you have an issue with a card and contact them. Let me put it this way, the most likely source of corruption would be your camera..." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:28:58.123" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1834" PostId="1991" Text="The first thing I do is copy to two different drives (one internal and one external) and, once sure that both have it, I'll erase." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:31:27.150" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1835" PostId="1990" Text="@sunpech: In both our cases, it's opinion. Obviously, I disagree with him, though." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:33:40.390" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1836" PostId="1992" Score="2" Text="As memory cards have random access, fragmentation should not be a problem." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:34:14.413" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1837" PostId="1988" Text="Correction, I assumed you linked the official Nikon guide... That's Ken's opinion, not an absolute." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:34:28.050" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1838" PostId="1993" Score="1" Text="@Guffa, the card's firmware should spread writes around the memory in a way which minimizes rewrites, to minimize this wear. So even if you write to the same logical sector again, it doesn't necessarily map to the same physical sector." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:40:13.700" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1839" PostId="1991" Text="@John I'm insanely paranoid, as I back up to 2 DVDs as well, and keep the DVD sets in different towns, too..." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:45:17.107" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1840" PostId="1991" Score="1" Text="@Rowland That's a pretty good definition of paranoid!" CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:47:24.343" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1841" PostId="1992" Score="1" Text="Also, fragmentation on a FAT file system is more common when deletion is scattered. If you empty the filesystem with deletes then fragmentation isn't a concern. Besides, the biggest issue with fragmentation was because DOS was a dog and older hardware could only handle one I/O request at a time." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:52:52.693" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1842" PostId="1992" Score="1" Text="Also, if you delete every file there will never be fragmentation.  Fragmentation only happens when free blocks are mixed with use blocks, which only happens when you delete some files but keep some around." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:54:03.783" UserId="789" />
  <row Id="1843" PostId="1991" Score="1" Text="@John I learnt a few years ago that you really do need to test your disaster recovery strategy with a dry run occasionally. I was glad I'd been paranoid last year though :)..." CreationDate="2010-08-04T20:58:10.640" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1845" PostId="1976" Score="1" Text="I'm using [darktable](http://darktable.sourceforge.net/install.shtml), however that requires Linux or OSX. [Rawtherapee](http://www.rawtherapee.com/) is also good and has a Windows version. The software that ships with the camera can be used to retrieve the raws to a separate directory, however since I can't run that here I use [gphotofs](http://gphoto.sourceforge.net/proj/gphotofs/) and a shell script." CreationDate="2010-08-04T21:18:11.127" UserId="156" />
  <row Id="1846" PostId="1995" Score="2" Text="+1 but not because I think you need to format like that, but because your reasoning for doing so is well thought out. I also agree that once a card starts to fail, toss it." CreationDate="2010-08-04T21:22:21.810" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1847" PostId="1997" Score="1" Text="With my camera it's possible to set the white balance to a particular color temperature, so a weak technique would be to set a number, shoot a white sheet, and adjust until the sheet looks white in the LCD, and then note what the final setting was.  However, that sounds like a lot of fiddling, and I don't trust the color judgment of my eyes." CreationDate="2010-08-04T21:25:18.097" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1848" PostId="2002" Text="What sort of pictures are we talking?  Candids of people at an event, sports?  Animals?  With your particular details, it seems like we're missing an important part of the equation to know what tips to give." CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:09:57.620" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="1849" PostId="1992" Score="1" Text="@Guffa: lack of fragmentation is why class 2 (based on slowest speed) can perform at class 10 speeds at times:&#xA;&#xA;The memory of a card is divided into minimum memory units. The host writes data onto memory units where no data is already stored. As available memory becomes divided into smaller units through normal use, this leads to an increase in non-linear, or fragmented storage. The amount of fragmentation can reduce write speeds, so higher SD card speeds help compensate for fragmentation.&#xA;&#xA;http://www.sdcard.org/developers/tech/speed_class/&#xA;&#xA;http://www.lagom.nl/misc/flash_fragmentation.html" CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:23:24.987" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1850" PostId="2002" Text="@jfklein: edited; sorry" CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:24:12.863" UserId="156" />
  <row Id="1851" PostId="1992" Text="@John see my link above.  Fragmentation is a major issue and that is why class numbers are calculated on the slowest most fragmented speeds but often perform better.&#xA;&#xA;@SoapBox: In theory, yes, who knows what kind of metadata and allocation table modifications are done throughout its use on different devices? I just play it safe, that's all." CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:30:18.767" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1852" PostId="1992" Text="Yes, memory cards have the same access time for random access as sequential, but they still read in chunks.  The chunks being located in different places is what causes the speed issue." CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:49:57.567" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1853" PostId="193" Text="Yes, but the question title specifically mentions *not* changing ISO." CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:50:24.803" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1854" PostId="2002" Text="Presumably at a very wide aperture? Thought I'd ask because if this is at anything like f/5.6 or higher, it's potentially a defect rather than a &quot;try this&quot; situation." CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:54:03.720" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1855" PostId="181" Text="Actually I should clarify this: &quot;Macro&quot; really refers to the relationship between the size of the object and the size of the object's image on the sensor; they should be about the same. In practical terms though it's used to refer to the ability for close-up focusting." CreationDate="2010-08-04T22:54:18.010" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1856" PostId="2002" Text="@matt: yes, usually the widest apertures; I typically end up having to take photos of people indoors using available light." CreationDate="2010-08-04T23:02:02.587" UserId="156" />
  <row Id="1857" PostId="1992" Text="@Eruditass: The impact is relative to the speed of the device, it's not a catastrophic problem. My point is, from above, formatting and erasing all of the files will have the same effect on fragmentation. Where you will feel the effect is as you start to fill the card, not when it is empty and, well, when you're filling the card with shots, formatting is a bad idea. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-04T23:11:43.927" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1858" PostId="2004" Score="1" Text="+1. OP, you need to do these tests such that *everything* is consistent between the two conditions except what you are testing. And don't pixel peep. It's unnecessary and will make you sad." CreationDate="2010-08-04T23:30:28.033" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1859" PostId="1991" Text="@Rowland, I believe that you don't actually have a backup unless you have tried and succeeded at a recovery. You do want to test that on purpose when things are calm, not after a burglary, fire, flood, or quake." CreationDate="2010-08-04T23:36:46.290" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="1860" PostId="1932" Text="I bought my 40D when the 50D had just came out and got it for a similar price to the (then new) 500D. Video was the big new feature on the 50D and I never use video so I was very happy." CreationDate="2010-08-04T23:40:40.777" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1861" PostId="1993" Text="@Reid: Interresting, that would reduce the wear of some memory cards significantly." CreationDate="2010-08-04T23:44:19.167" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1862" PostId="2007" Text="Interesting... so does that mean that ADR wouldn't be applicable when shooting RAW?" CreationDate="2010-08-05T00:01:39.480" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="1863" PostId="1995" Score="1" Text="+1 cause I do the same thing" CreationDate="2010-08-05T00:13:57.710" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="1864" PostId="2007" Text="When you shoot ADR you'll probably get an underexposed RAW.  Perhaps the SLR's own brand software might interpret it and boost everything but the highlights, though." CreationDate="2010-08-05T00:18:10.137" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1865" PostId="2009" Text="+1 Definitely on the obscure side of things, but well worth a mention!" CreationDate="2010-08-05T00:32:01.153" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1866" PostId="897" Text="@Tim: For my curiosity, do you see a difference in focus confirmation when you're stopped down compared to wide open? The lens itself is wide open while focusing and only stops down just before exposure, but I'm not familiar with the ins/outs of current AF systems; is it more forgiving when set to f/8?" CreationDate="2010-08-05T00:36:01.723" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1867" PostId="2009" Text="I never even knew about it until now. I've always hated how the 450D focused, but its extremely difficult to manually focus given its tiny viewfinder. I am hoping a focus screen will solve the problem." CreationDate="2010-08-05T00:49:52.723" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1868" PostId="1929" Text="The Digital Photography School is great!  I haven't had a chance to browse the other too much but it looks useful as well.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-05T01:02:56.350" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="1869" PostId="2009" Text="@jrista my experience (with a creaky old D100) is that they're an improvement, but not a miracle. Viewfinder's still tiny, and only slightly less dim, but manual focus is improved.  Mind you, I was using it with MF-only lenses." CreationDate="2010-08-05T01:28:45.817" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1870" PostId="2007" Score="1" Text="ADR is not applied when shooting RAW. Only when post processing then the settings for ADR then applied (like in Nikon Capture). The RAW file itself capture the raw data capture of the image without any software processing data (including ADR data). " CreationDate="2010-08-05T01:35:20.717" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1872" PostId="2009" Text="I generally manual-focus my 100mm macro lens, but I have not been able to get any macro floral or insect shots that, once viewed on my computer, were worth keeping due to poor focus. Even if it helps only a little, I think it would still be worth it. I figure I'll start with the $20 one and try it, and if it is useful, maybe go for the $200 one." CreationDate="2010-08-05T03:28:50.757" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1873" PostId="2007" Score="1" Text="To re-clarify, by turning on ADR you are telling the camera to underexpose, usually 1 stop. Thus the RAW file will be underexposed by one stop and not have the correct tone curve to appear correctly exposed (unless using software that applies the ADR tone curve) Because of this, you'll get around 1 stop worse noise at the same Aperture and Shutter speed for everything but the highlights." CreationDate="2010-08-05T03:47:25.773" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1874" PostId="133" Text="@Sirber: I don't see how that is an advantage, today." CreationDate="2010-08-05T05:14:11.667" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1875" PostId="2003" Score="1" Text="+1 Good joke! :D" CreationDate="2010-08-05T05:23:55.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1876" PostId="864" Score="1" Text="I tend to agree about working out license fees later. The thing about a watermark is that if it IS made tasteful, it usually also means it is easy to remove (anyone loathing PS5's content-aware fill, yet?)  Watermarks really only work as a deterrent when they are glaringly blatant...which mitigates 99.9% of their value in 99% of cases where they are needed." CreationDate="2010-08-05T05:45:16.073" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1877" PostId="164" Score="2" Text="Excellent question!" CreationDate="2010-08-05T06:28:35.007" UserId="3" />
  <row Id="1878" PostId="242" Score="2" Text="Very nice - I need to do this much more often!" CreationDate="2010-08-05T06:28:58.063" UserId="3" />
  <row Id="1879" PostId="1937" Text="&quot;As an aside, keep in mind that the public is there to enjoy the show, not to enjoy the photographs.&quot; Couldn't agree with this more. I'd only be photographing friends bands, so I would be allowed on to the stage. If I'm there to see a band I'm there to see them, not photograph them to see them later ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-05T06:54:01.447" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="1880" PostId="1997" Score="1" Text="Do note that the LCD is not (on any camera I've seen so far) color calibrated. Never trust the colors (or contrast and saturation for that matter) you see on the back of the camera." CreationDate="2010-08-05T07:49:31.447" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="1881" PostId="1076" Text="@Karel: I read Ken's blog a lot in the past years :) The guy has a lot of good advice. He got me to try Velvia (and I got hooked), but I was a control freak and frustrated with color negative film long before I heard about him." CreationDate="2010-08-05T08:22:08.327" UserId="292" />
  <row Id="1882" PostId="1947" Text="@Guffa-- It's not that they are insensitive to UV, it's that the glass in front of the sensor cuts the UV down significantly.  If you had a UV-specific lens (made of a special glass or quartz), I believe that most commercial cameras should still be able to record UV.  Of course, the sensitivity will vary from chip model to chip model." CreationDate="2010-08-05T08:37:56.720" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="1883" PostId="1084" Text="+1 TuFuse is great tool! See my exapmles: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/683/hdr-from-a-single-raw-file/2023#2023" CreationDate="2010-08-05T10:02:08.633" UserId="214" />
  <row Id="1884" PostId="2002" Text="Another (possibly related) question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1724/how-i-could-take-crisp-sharp-shots-without-expensive-lens/1726#1726" CreationDate="2010-08-05T12:11:08.103" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1886" PostId="2034" Text="+1 definitely a classic." CreationDate="2010-08-05T13:12:45.537" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1888" PostId="16" Text="There is also a question for online classes here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1928/what-are-the-best-online-photo-classes" CreationDate="2010-08-05T13:15:21.833" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1889" PostId="777" Score="1" Text="+1  oh so true  ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-05T13:55:09.667" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1890" PostId="16" Text="Also, a question for blog listings: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/384/what-blogs-should-i-be-following-if-i-am-learning-photography" CreationDate="2010-08-05T13:59:34.743" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1891" PostId="2041" Score="1" Text="You might also be interested in the related question about printing: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer" CreationDate="2010-08-05T14:11:21.757" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1892" PostId="341" Score="8" Text="A great tip I once heard was to take 24 shots (one 35mm film roll) of a single subject as a learning experience.  Every shot should be distinctly different, and in the end you should be able to pick 2-3 that really convey the ideas you have of the subject." CreationDate="2010-08-05T14:18:00.887" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1893" PostId="2036" Score="1" Text="+1 Absolutely this is usually where some of the inspiration starts" CreationDate="2010-08-05T14:29:24.670" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1894" PostId="2049" Text="The same thing (although perhaps a less technical version of):&#xA;&#xA;http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2005/how-does-adaptive-dynamic-range-work&#xA;&#xA;If you understand my answer, you can extrapolate why it does not work with ISO expansion on the lower end." CreationDate="2010-08-05T14:52:04.953" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1895" PostId="2049" Text="So Adaptive Dynamic Range is Nikon-ese for the same thing? I'm not sure I get why you can't have ISO expansion as well, though, particularly if HTP/ADR are only applied to the JPG and not the original RAW file...?" CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:03:36.020" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="1896" PostId="2044" Text="Thanks for a clear answer.  Showing exactly how the DPI affects the pixel dimensions when printing helped!&#xA;&#xA;Is there a standard DPI I should use?" CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:14:49.890" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="1897" PostId="2049" Score="2" Text="@Matt, Nikon calls it D-Lighting, ADR is a generic term.   Your whole RAW file will be underexposed by 1 stop.  If the minimum ISO with expansion is 100 ISO, this underexposure means that for the whole image (except the highlights), in order to get it to the correct exposure, you need to add +1 EV in post, making the image ISO 200.  This is why if you underexpose images, you will get more noise than expected because you add + EV and basically need to increase the sensitivity to get it to look correct." CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:19:03.350" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1898" PostId="2028" Text="Not really too much information. :) Actually, I already knew most parts. Being a geek myself I already checked out every last function of my camera. :D Not that I understand all of them, but your post clarified a few things (like what the &quot;fill in&quot; means and how it is different from conventional flash)." CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:23:26.017" UserId="811" />
  <row Id="1899" PostId="2044" Text="@Canon Gangsta: The DPI setting you use affects the print quality, what you use depend on the printer. Note the difference between DPI (resolution of the printer output) and PPI (resolution of the image). A reasonable resolution for an image to be printed is 200 - 500 PPI." CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:28:32.130" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1900" PostId="2049" Score="2" Text="I think I get it - ISO 100 isn't available because the camera would have to actually take the shot at ISO 50, which it doesn't support. And I'd guess that ISO 6400 isn't available because it would actually be shot at ISO 3200 plus 1EV in post, which would be unusably noisy?" CreationDate="2010-08-05T15:40:22.293" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="1901" PostId="2052" Score="2" Text="This is pure speculation at this point and therefore off topic according to the guidelines: see http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/should-we-allow-questions-about-unreleased-cameras" CreationDate="2010-08-05T16:56:27.830" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="1902" PostId="2061" Text="Thanks for the terminology hint.  I've updated my question." CreationDate="2010-08-05T17:19:17.763" UserId="233" />
  <row Id="1903" PostId="2049" Score="1" Text="Yep, you got it down!" CreationDate="2010-08-05T17:42:18.837" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1904" PostId="2056" Text="I waited 12 months for the 5D2 announcement, as it was rumoured to be imminent for such a long time, along with the expected specs, where it was going to solve world hunger..." CreationDate="2010-08-05T18:05:22.793" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1905" PostId="683" Text="More recent sensors are 14-bit. Older sensors are 12-bit. I think it will be hard to find a DSLR with a 24-bit sensor." CreationDate="2010-08-05T18:16:56.427" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1906" PostId="683" Text="Urg. I meant 14-bit. (Turns out you can't edit comments once there's a reply; I never knew that...)" CreationDate="2010-08-05T18:28:33.190" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="1907" PostId="2052" Score="4" Text="It'll probably be announced the week after you give up waiting." CreationDate="2010-08-05T19:26:57.460" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1908" PostId="691" Score="1" Text="@Shaihi See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2041/what-does-dpi-mean for dpi vs ppi" CreationDate="2010-08-05T19:34:06.493" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1909" PostId="2073" Score="1" Text="btw, it's Picasa - one S. Corrected for you. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-05T20:41:10.230" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1910" PostId="2076" Text="You want the opposite of a lot of DoF.  A small DoF." CreationDate="2010-08-05T21:00:56.353" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1911" PostId="2068" Score="1" Text="Cost is more complicated than just &quot;film costs money to develop,&quot; as it's a comparison between a high initial cost (DSLR) and low continuing cost (film).  It also depends on how you measure, e.g., per-frame (digital wins), per-year (film, usually, given typical digital upgrade cycles), or per-picture-you-hang-on-your-wall (my favorite, but much more complicated).  Anyway, upshot is that there's no reason that film is especially expensive in the context of a generally-expensive hobby." CreationDate="2010-08-05T21:11:17.660" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1912" PostId="2078" Text="In theory, the same principle used for doing &quot;dust delete data&quot; could be applied, but I've only ever known this to be done in-camera." CreationDate="2010-08-05T21:21:38.653" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1913" PostId="2029" Score="3" Text="The problem is, to be able to take those three pictures, you'll first have to take those 300000.  You don't learn photography by not making photographs." CreationDate="2010-08-05T21:38:38.570" UserId="842" />
  <row Id="1914" PostId="2078" Score="4" Text="+1 for very nice demo of the problem." CreationDate="2010-08-05T21:51:46.410" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1915" PostId="2076" Text="yeah ....   that's right :)         " CreationDate="2010-08-05T21:59:21.787" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="1916" PostId="2077" Text="I agree the long answer.. but sometimes if I want to take picture of a small plant that has a flower. I don't get that flexibility to move around much.. because of the height of plant." CreationDate="2010-08-05T22:00:47.060" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="1917" PostId="2087" Text="Thanks for you detailed answer." CreationDate="2010-08-05T22:49:02.357" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="1918" PostId="2029" Text="Numbers are arbitrary, but you should still have the goal in mind." CreationDate="2010-08-05T23:09:09.817" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1919" PostId="2068" Text="@matt Black and white film has been more expensive to develop than color for decades, so with film itself getting less common, that's a situation that will continue to worsen. Anyways, I didn't say it was especially expensive, that depends on the person, just that it is expensive and, if you already have the dSLR, then buying a film camera and film changes the cost discussion." CreationDate="2010-08-05T23:13:06.080" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1920" PostId="2074" Score="1" Text="RawTherapee is a pretty good piece of software and the price is excellent. :) It's my personal choice on Linux and on my lowly Windows XP netbook." CreationDate="2010-08-05T23:15:59.960" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1921" PostId="2087" Score="1" Text="He doesn't say that he is looking for a lens with a 50mm equivalent FoV, he says he wants shallow DoF.  Thus, a 50mm f1.8 will give shallower DoF compared to a 35mm f1.8." CreationDate="2010-08-06T00:30:01.667" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1922" PostId="2089" Score="4" Text="Can you post a small sample or a link?" CreationDate="2010-08-06T00:49:38.540" UserId="626" />
  <row Id="1923" PostId="2089" Score="2" Text="The camera make and model would also help, as CCD and CMOS sensors are different." CreationDate="2010-08-06T00:53:50.497" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1924" PostId="2090" Text="It was pointed at the sun for a few hours. I was using it as a webcam and left it unattended for a while, plus the camera is about 10 years old. Later I was taking shot at 1/400 and moving the camera after, and that still caused some problems." CreationDate="2010-08-06T01:17:32.773" UserId="846" />
  <row Id="1925" PostId="2090" Score="5" Text="Yeah sounds like sun damage. 10 years old. Time to replace." CreationDate="2010-08-06T01:20:59.320" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1926" PostId="2068" Text="@John as I said, it's more complicated than &quot;BW film is expensive,&quot; because it *doesn't have to be*.  Your argument strikes me as saying that digital is expensive because you have to pay someone to prep the photos for you.  Of course you don't.  You can also print well at home for less than professional labs cost.  Film is no different: there are simple steps to take to keep it affordable; my costs are just under $3/roll." CreationDate="2010-08-06T01:56:27.457" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1927" PostId="2068" Text="@Matt I've taken 14495 (actual exact number as of tonight) shots on my K20 which cost me about $800. If I use your $3 a roll figure, you would have spent around $1250 to develop the film for the same number of shots (assuming a roll of 36, it's nearly $1900 for rolls of 24). The incremental cost of film is a curve that gets worse as the shot total increases, not to mention that it takes substantially longer to develop film images versus digital, which is also a cost. Film has a distinct cost versus digital, be it time or money, or both." CreationDate="2010-08-06T02:20:48.453" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1928" PostId="2079" Text="That waterfall shot is beautiful " CreationDate="2010-08-06T02:29:27.220" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="1929" PostId="2080" Text="+1 for Lightroom and applying the same spot removals across multiple photos." CreationDate="2010-08-06T02:51:43.603" UserId="847" />
  <row Id="1930" PostId="2021" Text="when asking users to contribute to a list of answers, you should mark the question [community wiki](http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/11740/what-are-community-wiki-posts). I have converted this post." CreationDate="2010-08-06T03:48:56.257" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="1931" PostId="2022" Score="3" Text="When asking users to contribute to a list of answers, the question should be marked [community wiki](http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/11740/what-are-community-wiki-posts). I have converted this question." CreationDate="2010-08-06T03:51:05.710" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="1932" PostId="2099" Text="I don't think this is a community wiki type question, but too late to change it back I believe." CreationDate="2010-08-06T05:23:43.117" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="1933" PostId="2099" Score="1" Text="I thought it was pretty subjective and there may not be a clear answer." CreationDate="2010-08-06T05:35:57.357" UserId="607" />
  <row Id="1934" PostId="2096" Score="1" Text="See http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/63/photo-location-tips-on-or-off-topic where the community decided local photo tips are off-topic" CreationDate="2010-08-06T06:13:45.143" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="1935" PostId="2097" Text="I do believe this kind of mount works for digital prints, as I have purchased Giclée art block prints from DeviantArt.com. I am not certain how, exactly, they do the mounting, but the Giclée printing process is a high quality ink jet on satin printing process." CreationDate="2010-08-06T06:32:28.387" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1936" PostId="2063" Text="I'm not really interested in doing photography for photography's sake. When I take a picture it's on some occasion or another, and I want it to be as good as I can get (thus the question)." CreationDate="2010-08-06T06:44:51.480" UserId="811" />
  <row Id="1937" PostId="496" Score="3" Text="I have made this thread a CW thread. The answers here are extensive and very useful, but could still use enhancement and updates. I encourage the community to add to the answers below if they notice anything is missing. Please conform to the format of each existing post, and do not heavily modify the existing format of each one. Additions and corrections to the existing contents are encouraged." CreationDate="2010-08-06T07:06:42.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1938" PostId="508" Score="1" Text="This is now Community Wiki, and as such, is editable by anyone. I have not been able to find rich detail for other common lens types, such as Lecia, Pentax, FourThirds, etc. I encourage those of you who have the knowledge to improve the content of this answer. **Please**, *conform to the existing format for any new lens entries. Please maintain the same level of quality and accuracy. If you don't have full information, post what information you do have under the proper section and lens heading." CreationDate="2010-08-06T07:08:49.280" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1939" PostId="2068" Text="@John So if you just hold down the shutter on your digital camera, it makes film somehow more expensive? How many shots have you taken that are good enough to print? That's the interesting metric, because it eliminates the chaff that's viewed once and deleted (or archived).  Naiively applying the working habits of digital is a weird idea; film and digital aren't the same, and don't need to be the same.  You work any medium to it's strengths, and I've been working with film for years, perfectly happily and affordably. " CreationDate="2010-08-06T09:52:28.143" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1940" PostId="2099" Text="The question on its own is fairly subjective, but the example you describe is very typical of festivals and performances generally, and has a fairly concrete answer: does it look big and fancy? Yes? &quot;Professional.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-06T10:02:29.023" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1941" PostId="2068" Text="It makes it more expensive per actuation and I don't think it's all that weird a comparison because the incremental cost of experimentation and learning is a very real factor in order to work the medium to its strength. You've been doing it for years, with film, before there was digital. For somebody looking to experiment, it's an entirely different story and not everyone has their own darkroom or access to one to lower the costs." CreationDate="2010-08-06T10:35:21.873" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1942" PostId="2108" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8/how-can-i-organise-my-photos-better" CreationDate="2010-08-06T12:28:55.937" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="1943" PostId="706" Score="1" Text="Close please for subjective and off-topic as in http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/63/photo-location-tips-on-or-off-topic " CreationDate="2010-08-06T13:18:55.153" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="1944" PostId="2101" Text="Nice distinction.  Well put.  " CreationDate="2010-08-06T14:26:07.670" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="1945" PostId="2063" Text="It doesn't have to be photography for photography's sake.  For example several years ago, I went to Mammoth Lake for Vacation.  In this sitituation, I'm going to take lots of pictures of the Lake, the wife, the wife at the lake, etc.  So I went into the weekend thinking that anytime I was going to take a landscape picture,  I needed to include something in the foreground to give some sense of depth and scale to the picture.   Focusing on one element for the weekend made those pictures better, but also all of my landscape pictures since then have improved." CreationDate="2010-08-06T15:29:34.237" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="1946" PostId="210" Text="How tall is that Velocity 8?  My x10 is great on height but is just so huge that is sometimes gets in the way.  (I can keep a Nikon D50 on a Sigma 120-400mm zoom with the lens hood in the x10.)" CreationDate="2010-08-06T15:30:46.467" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="1947" PostId="210" Text="I use the aero speed pack as my laptop bag so I can carry a street camera with me, and it's pretty good. Moderately comfortable for me (not something I'd hike with, something I don't mind hauling around all day), can carry a body with a lens attached, 2nd lens and a flash plus a few toys. &#xA;&#xA;The tamrac velocity 8 is my street kit bag. I use it to carry a single body with a single lens (tamron 28-300), and it works fine for that. " CreationDate="2010-08-06T15:53:47.020" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="1948" PostId="2079" Text="thank you! appreciate you looking at it.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-06T15:55:18.810" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="1949" PostId="2082" Text="It's hard to consider one tool 'the best', especially if you're only mentioning the two most known image-manipulation programs, while this is clearly a photography related issue." CreationDate="2010-08-06T16:03:23.050" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1950" PostId="2118" Score="1" Text="That stuckincustoms web site has the biggest page header I have EVER seen. :o" CreationDate="2010-08-06T16:21:00.830" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1951" PostId="2128" Text="Hopefully, this goes without saying, but don't forget to use a tripod!" CreationDate="2010-08-06T17:43:18.077" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="1952" PostId="2128" Text="Oh yes, always ALWAYS use a tripod. I guess it doesn't really go without saying. ;P" CreationDate="2010-08-06T18:18:00.077" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1953" PostId="2117" Text="For clarity: bicycle or motorcycle?" CreationDate="2010-08-06T18:36:57.543" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1954" PostId="2044" Text="@Canon Gangsta: If you want a detailed explanation of how to choose a proper DPI for prints, check out my thread on the subject here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer" CreationDate="2010-08-06T18:49:08.750" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1955" PostId="2068" Text="@John So &quot;learn and experiment&quot; on digital if that's what you prefer, and shoot film when the mood strikes you! There is no one-or-the-other decision here. The fact remains that shooting film, if done judiciously, has a very minimal cost.  It's &quot;expensive&quot; only if you make it expensive, and that's up to the individual, not inherent in the practice.  Buying a coffee can be expensive if you want it to be, that's doesn't mean it must be all the time, for everyone." CreationDate="2010-08-06T19:03:47.600" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1956" PostId="864" Score="1" Text="For a large percentage of the population, an easy to remove watermark is an effective deterrent.  However, it's the small percentage that it doesn't deter whom use it in the worst ways." CreationDate="2010-08-06T19:34:07.650" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1957" PostId="67" Text="Sorry, I didn't mean to claim that you were not serious, but I doubt you will find anything lighter with good quality. My point is that it probably would be easier to cut down 500g on something else. " CreationDate="2010-08-06T20:29:01.597" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="1958" PostId="2068" Text="@Matt Fair enough. I don't disagree with you, but I do think it is reasonable to point out that there is a cost, both time and money, associated with film. The degree of the expense, however, is certainly within the control of the individual and that may mean it is minor." CreationDate="2010-08-06T20:36:16.107" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1959" PostId="2125" Text="Bummer, that's what I was afraid of." CreationDate="2010-08-06T22:21:53.760" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="1960" PostId="2129" Text="Wow,  good detail.  I do off-camera triggering when I'm doing studio work with my MonoLights.  But I was hoping to be able to use the Quantray along with the TTL cable and my stroboframe to get the flash away from the centerline of the lens for location type shots. &#xA;If I get a new Speedlite for the Canon,  will my TTL cable work, or do I need a new cable too?" CreationDate="2010-08-06T22:58:32.830" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="1961" PostId="2136" Score="2" Text="There are some good tips and links for standard landscape/star shots in this answer to the more-general question about getting started in astrophotography: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1061/how-do-i-get-started-in-astrophotography/1193#1193" CreationDate="2010-08-06T23:33:06.707" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1962" PostId="2137" Text="oops. that was 35 seconds, 28mm, F5.6 at ISO 100 on an APS sensor, shot pre-pre-dawn as I was getting set up for a dawn shoot. " CreationDate="2010-08-06T23:38:10.893" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="1963" PostId="329" Text="So you answered your own subjective question? Nice. I'm still deciding between this bag or one of the Lens Changers." CreationDate="2010-08-07T00:03:35.457" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="1964" PostId="2127" Text="Heck, if you get too much sun, even stopping down may not do it for you! That happened to me at a waterfall once, I couldn't get my shutter speed below 1/500 to save my life. I've since acquired ND and polarizing filters." CreationDate="2010-08-07T00:35:56.313" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="1965" PostId="2139" Score="1" Text="WARNING: I recently tried a couple Drobo RAID devices. I **absolutely** _do not recommend them_. They are the slowest devices I have ever used, topping out at about 19mb/s read speed and 11-12mb/s write speed. A simple $15 16Gb USB thumb drive is faster than a Drobo. Switching to a NetGear ReadyNAS NVX took me from 11-19mb/s speed to over 85mb/s speed. I would take pretty much anything over a Drobo." CreationDate="2010-08-07T02:46:01.660" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1966" PostId="2138" Score="2" Text="Give us a ballpark estimate of your monthly data storage increments." CreationDate="2010-08-07T03:54:03.470" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="1967" PostId="2139" Text="@Jrista - the first iteration of Drobo was not great (though those speeds are the lowest I've seen quoted - owch).  They are much improved currently; certainly haven't ever had any problems here." CreationDate="2010-08-07T05:39:48.387" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1968" PostId="2139" Text="I tried them recently, about a month ago. I believe they were the current generation. Its possible I just got some bad ones, or perhaps their USB interface is just poor, or something. Either way, the ReadyNAS screams, and I'm happy with it." CreationDate="2010-08-07T08:18:39.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1969" PostId="2099" Text="Sounds like the question  as to whetehr this is subjective is itself subjective :-)" CreationDate="2010-08-07T09:03:14.993" UserId="870" />
  <row Id="1970" PostId="2117" Text="it's for the bicycle :)" CreationDate="2010-08-07T13:13:54.907" UserId="861" />
  <row Id="1971" PostId="329" Text="Well, it is the bag I chose. I got it a few weeks ago, and love it. Very highly recommended!" CreationDate="2010-08-07T13:36:00.027" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="1972" PostId="2150" Score="3" Text="I believe that, at least in the DSLR space, the 1:1 ratio still exists. Some lenses have either a 'macro' mention on the distance scale, or a specific 'macro' setting, that are not 1:1 macro lenses, but that's just marketing." CreationDate="2010-08-07T14:36:47.880" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="1973" PostId="2150" Text="@Dave: Good point. I changed the answer so that it's clear that the classical definition is not obsolete." CreationDate="2010-08-07T14:50:29.270" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="1974" PostId="2138" Score="4" Text="I'm in IT and I've always said the most important data in the world is your wife's digital photo collection (ok, maybe your boss' wife's collection...)  &#xA;So while managing a backup process seems a little scary, its nothing like your girlfriend will be if you tell her, 'honey, the harddrive failed and all your pictures are gone...'" CreationDate="2010-08-07T15:46:23.767" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="1975" PostId="1954" Text="+1 for specifics, the viewfinder and extra controls on the X0D make a big difference in use." CreationDate="2010-08-07T16:01:17.203" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="1976" PostId="2066" Text="@jrista - I don't feel like it was correct to add the [subjective] tag here." CreationDate="2010-08-07T19:18:21.870" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1977" PostId="2066" Text="@Karel: I actually agree, and I've removed it. There were a lot of film vs. digital questions I was examining when I added it, and most of them seemed subjective. The topic of film vs. digital itself is fairly subjective. However, the answers given have been very good, and I think its a useful, helpful thread overall. " CreationDate="2010-08-07T20:05:02.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1979" PostId="2066" Text="It turned out a bit more subjective than my initial thought (I've been shooting digital through the color filters and trying to understand what are the effects of Bayer there lately), so I had very technical approach in mind. Well, I started too broad as usual, but at least I hope we have some important topics covered. " CreationDate="2010-08-07T20:21:17.300" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1980" PostId="2153" Score="3" Text="Good answer.  One other point to add is real macro lenses tend to have flat-field focus, which means the plane of focus is parallel to the sensor.  Other lenses have curved-fields, which make it more difficult to get what you want in focus, even in non-macro situations like photographing pictures.  This is not the same as geometric distortion.&#xA;&#xA;This is also why some lenses have much lower edge-sharpness scores." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:06:21.363" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="1981" PostId="1301" Text="I have to say that I didn't get nearly as natural colors out of Precisa. All I got was crazy green cast and massive grain. But I didn't scan them myself either or maybe it's a different emulsion (Agfa Precisa 100 CT)." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:06:55.980" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1982" PostId="2158" Text="Thanks for pointing this out, I added a bit to my answer and linked to your. The problem with comparing compacts is that most of the specifications only mention how close to the subject you can stick the lens, and not how small things can you actually capture." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:24:12.190" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="1983" PostId="1505" Text="I wish I was as familiar with phones as I am with cameras. Symbian is the software platform." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:25:38.757" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1984" PostId="2153" Text="Capturing the same *area* with a smaller sensor doesn't get you the same (or even comparable) *magnification*. The results can certainly be similar, but dragging in magnification clouds the definition a little." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:32:25.993" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1985" PostId="2138" Text="also try asking this question on www.superuser.com" CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:38:28.313" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="1986" PostId="2029" Text="that is very true...+1" CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:41:16.827" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="1987" PostId="2053" Text="This is the flipside of Karel's answer...I like to take a whole bunch of photos, and then I usually get a few, really good photos in there...you can always delete photos later..." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:42:14.517" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="1988" PostId="2160" Score="1" Text="Good answer. A nice thing about external hard drives is their longevity and portability. They are simple, and their interface is unlikely to go away for years." CreationDate="2010-08-07T21:52:31.857" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1989" PostId="2162" Text="Well, I have been experimenting. I don't really want to sit around and manually set the release every 30 seconds for some 200-300 shots. Hence the intervalometer." CreationDate="2010-08-07T23:07:19.570" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1990" PostId="27" Text="More opportunities, not necessarily for monetary purposes." CreationDate="2010-08-08T02:34:45.633" UserId="20" />
  <row Id="1991" PostId="487" Score="1" Text="tough to answer. lots of options in that range, but without knowing what type of photography you're thinking of, it's hard to even point you at a class of camera. Are you looking at taking pictures of your kids and is low light a priority? Or are you thinking more of urban or landscape work outside where wide angle capabilities and a superzoom might work? hard to even see where to start here. &#xA;&#xA;but one of the popular consumer cameras, like a canon elph, might be worth looking at and give you something to explore and help figure out where your interests really are. " CreationDate="2010-08-08T04:22:46.033" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="1992" PostId="2171" Score="1" Text="Scrims, canopies or macro don't function well with street work." CreationDate="2010-08-08T05:55:19.783" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="1993" PostId="2166" Text="Similar question about landscape is here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/532/what-techniques-do-you-employ-to-control-contrast-in-your-landscape-shots" CreationDate="2010-08-08T07:29:02.620" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1994" PostId="532" Text="Similar question about street photography is here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2166/how-to-deal-with-midday-light" CreationDate="2010-08-08T07:29:36.597" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="1995" PostId="2162" Score="1" Text="@jrista: that is why I suggested to use a remote cord where you can lock the release button (which I believe most, if not all, can); if you lock the shutter release with the camera in continuous mode it will automatically continue to take new shots until you release the lock. You don't need to be around to press the shutter." CreationDate="2010-08-08T07:47:54.647" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1996" PostId="2162" Text="I do have a cable release, however with mirror lockup, it does not support continuous shooting mode. Without mirror lockup, I get camera shake. Additionally, if I did simply take 25 second shots one after the other, I would get a real-time sequence, where as I need a time-lapse sequence to actually show accelerated progression." CreationDate="2010-08-08T08:17:02.910" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1997" PostId="2162" Score="1" Text="@jrista: camera shake is typically not an issue with exposures as long as 25 seconds (but I guess that also depends on what camera support you have access to). Also, the time lapse effect comes from the delay between the starts of the exposures, not the waiting time between them. Consecutive 25-second exposures would give you a movie that is 25 times faster than real time (if we assume that we make the movie at 25 fps). Anyway, I assume you already tried out these things and didn't get the result that you wanted so I'll leave it at that. " CreationDate="2010-08-08T08:44:26.307" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="1998" PostId="2162" Text="Let me give you a clearer scenario. I want to &quot;film&quot; the night sky for about an 8 hour period or so, a little after sunset to a little before sunrise. At 16mm on my 1.6x crop 450D, I can expose for about 25-30 seconds before I get noticeable star trails. An 8 hour period is 28800 seconds. For a 15 second clip, thats about 500 frames, so a 25 second exposure and 36 second interval will be required. A 30 second clip is around 1000 frames, so a 25 second exposure and 9 second interval will be required.  For a video clip, I guess mirror lock is not necessary, as the resolution would be so low." CreationDate="2010-08-08T09:05:24.150" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="1999" PostId="2165" Text="Model/product number?" CreationDate="2010-08-08T09:15:49.340" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="2001" PostId="2172" Score="1" Text="+1 for fill flash, polarizing filter and using shadow play." CreationDate="2010-08-08T10:21:40.197" UserId="885" />
  <row Id="2002" PostId="2167" Text="+1 Don't be shy to postprocess your images! Nobody admits it but everybody does it..." CreationDate="2010-08-08T10:22:43.753" UserId="885" />
  <row Id="2003" PostId="2128" Text="Nice, but sometimes I want to capture the splashes and the liveliness of the water and this is not possible a long exposure." CreationDate="2010-08-08T10:25:27.913" UserId="885" />
  <row Id="2004" PostId="1301" Text="@Karel - A green cast is characteristic of the current Precisa. The whole story is too long for a comment, but in brief: the rights to use Precisa are owned by a holding company, and they're repackaging some other emulsion using the brand. Sorry, I should have added a note to that effect (I'll do that now)." CreationDate="2010-08-08T11:03:14.827" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2005" PostId="2172" Score="5" Text="Reflectors and diffusers don't really apply to street photography." CreationDate="2010-08-08T11:10:37.727" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2006" PostId="995" Text="I second this. I'm not experienced enough to shoot on full manual mode (most of the shots I did in this mode got over or underexposed)..." CreationDate="2010-08-08T11:26:56.837" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="2007" PostId="2168" Score="1" Text="NDs won't darken a whole scene unless you use the unfiltered exposure values, in which case it's the same effect as underexposure." CreationDate="2010-08-08T11:38:08.853" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2008" PostId="370" Score="2" Text="50mm 1.8 is your best bet. It's cheap too." CreationDate="2010-08-08T11:47:22.577" UserId="887" />
  <row Id="2009" PostId="2172" Score="2" Text="Well, one can look for the places where big bright walls act as reflectors or try to use cafe sunscreens as diffusers. Your best softbox is still the evening sky." CreationDate="2010-08-08T12:38:37.837" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2010" PostId="2168" Text="Sorry, I may have misworded that a bit, I meant darken in terms of decreasing the ambient lighting, which will allow you to change your exposure settings." CreationDate="2010-08-08T13:00:24.617" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2011" PostId="2168" Score="1" Text="@chills42 Think of it from the meter's point of view.  The meter's attempting to get the same total amount of light to the sensor.  Add an ND filter to reduce the light, and the meter just changes the aperture/shutter to get to the same total.  Result: nearly identical pictures.  And if you add a filter but keep the unfiltered settings, you might as well just underexpose by the same amount without the filter." CreationDate="2010-08-08T13:50:50.533" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2012" PostId="2172" Text="+1 excellent answer, including with modifiers, flash, &amp; HDR." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:07:10.930" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="2013" PostId="2053" Text="There's a famous quote that I can't find right now that goes something to the effect of &quot;the photographer's best friend is the bin&quot; — whatever level you're at, you'll be better if you look at your photos and cut out the junk." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:25:16.923" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2014" PostId="2069" Text="This is true up to a point... if you're visiting a specific and impressive looking location (e.g. the Grand Canyon) then it might be nice to have a photo of Uncle Joe which shows he's at the Grand Canyon and not just in the local park. So if the location is important, there should be just enough &quot;background&quot; to make sure that location is part of the story the photo tells." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:28:24.407" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2015" PostId="2179" Text="Yes, I guess would be the way to go. Would have been nice not needing to buy one when there is one built into the camera though..." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:29:55.417" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="2016" PostId="2184" Text="LR is much more sophisticated in editing, especially with local adjustments.&#xA;&#xA;Picasa has face detection which is one feature I miss in LR." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:30:17.613" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2017" PostId="1198" Text="If you're shooting RAW, that's a very good point, since you can do so much more correction after the fact. But if you're shooting JPG, bracketing might help you out." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:36:34.790" UserId="263" />
  <row Id="2018" PostId="2165" Text="Theres an endless number on ebay, search for SDHC USB.  Here is one:&#xA;&#xA;http://cgi.ebay.com/SD-SDHC-MEMORY-CARD-READER-USB-1GB-2GB-4GB-8GB-/390200464515?pt=PCC_Drives_Storage_Internal#ht_2234wt_1138&#xA;&#xA;Oh, they take several weeks to get in." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:46:24.613" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2019" PostId="2186" Text="That pretty much sums it up. I haunt Craigslist looking for Pentax glass all the time, great deals on older, and top notch, lenses." CreationDate="2010-08-08T14:52:06.737" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2020" PostId="2167" Text="there is nothing wrong with post-processing. the camera does it even if you don't want to." CreationDate="2010-08-08T15:29:49.803" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="2021" PostId="2162" Text="I'd have to agree that setting your camera in continuous shooting mode with a 30 second exposure time and a trigger lock sounds perfect. You could discard every second frame to get the timing sequence you're after, or just make the video and re-process it in a program that lets you speed it up afterwards." CreationDate="2010-08-08T15:30:34.720" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2022" PostId="2168" Text="@ exactly, but the difference is the in the changed aperture/shutter." CreationDate="2010-08-08T15:31:37.107" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2023" PostId="2168" Text="@matt ND filters are useful when there is too much light and one wants to capture a scene at a shutter/aperture that otherwise becomes too washed out without the filter." CreationDate="2010-08-08T15:33:00.290" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="2024" PostId="226" Score="1" Text="Even better: move yourself. Too many times I have realised I'm zooming when it would be easier to move position." CreationDate="2010-08-08T15:34:06.017" UserId="894" />
  <row Id="2025" PostId="2171" Text="Great article you linked to there :)" CreationDate="2010-08-08T16:21:56.960" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2026" PostId="1891" Score="3" Text="Yes, using a flash to shoot a concert is a no-no." CreationDate="2010-08-08T16:31:22.553" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="2027" PostId="1994" Text="I disagree. A camera that can shoot the same quality with a 1 stop higher ISO is more important than buying all your lenses 1 stop faster. The latter is more expensive, and you lose depth-of-field that you might need to get sharp pictures especially in low light where getting the right focus is more difficult, or with moving subjects." CreationDate="2010-08-08T16:34:38.010" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="2028" PostId="2051" Text="Using a focusing assist is usually considered as rude as using a flash." CreationDate="2010-08-08T16:35:41.847" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="2029" PostId="957" Text="@jrista: Are you sure about that?!? I am under the impression that a focal length of 60mm is a focal length of 60mm, whatever sensor it is intended to be used for. [This question](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1592/why-do-we-talk-about-focal-length-when-frame-sizes-are-different) also backs that up. So the EF-S 60mm lens on an APS-C body will give a field of view equivalent to a 96mm lens on a full frame body. If this is not the case can you point me to a source that states that?" CreationDate="2010-08-08T16:41:26.630" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2030" PostId="1836" Score="1" Text="If you're embedding a colour profile it will be ignored by the majority of users' browsers (IE 7 &amp; 8) which will assume that the image is using the sRGB colour space and display it as such. So unless you've converted your images to sRGB the colour will be off. Until IE9 replaces older versions you'll either need to suggest viewing them in Firefox or Safari to see the 'correct' colours or you'd be better off converting them all to sRGB since this is how IE (and Chrome) will display them anyway." CreationDate="2010-08-08T17:03:09.987" UserId="71" />
  <row Id="2031" PostId="897" Text="@matt - yes, I do. Depending on the light of course. I noticed this when a motorcycle headlight came on in the parking lot and shined through a window back lighting a subject. I stepped down to f9 because the 'house lights' had also come on indicating closing time, and focus / exposure worked perfectly with spot metering. I actually got a chance to repeat that (this time with headlights from a car) while using matrix metering and it was a disaster, thankfully, I bracketed." CreationDate="2010-08-08T17:03:17.410" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="2034" PostId="2162" Text="Thats a good idea, to discard every other frame. I intend to get an AC adapter for it as well, which would allow me to shoot continuously for extended periods of time." CreationDate="2010-08-08T18:26:18.023" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2035" PostId="2191" Text="I did not realize there were battery grips for the 450D. I was looking to get an AC adapter for it, however if I could find a grip that included an intervalometer, that would work just as well." CreationDate="2010-08-08T18:26:50.427" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2036" PostId="2167" Text="I'm a little confused, I don't recall saying that there was anything wrong with post-processing images. Anyways, the camera doesn't do it for RAW, or it is very minimal, as that's the point of RAW so of course you have to do it yourself." CreationDate="2010-08-08T18:41:48.290" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2037" PostId="353" Text="Canon does a 35mm f/2.0 that's pretty good value - $300 on amazon." CreationDate="2010-08-08T18:50:25.557" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2038" PostId="2128" Text="Well, sure, if you want to take a &quot;normal&quot; photo of water, that is always possible. You don't need to do anything special to get such a shot, though...just snap it normally. In general, I think when people ask about photographing water, they are wondering how to get that classic, smooth, dreamy, flowing look that you see most often. " CreationDate="2010-08-08T18:56:48.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2039" PostId="2172" Text="+1 very useful, thanks! Especially for the example photo with flash" CreationDate="2010-08-08T19:05:27.087" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="2040" PostId="2204" Text="I want to know the right course here. I took some pictures on the street and now I am not sure how to find those guys." CreationDate="2010-08-08T19:08:25.973" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="2042" PostId="2202" Text="Regarding &quot;prime&quot;: see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1922/definition-of-a-prime-lens" CreationDate="2010-08-08T19:15:08.910" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2044" PostId="2207" Text="This might not be obvious: you'll get no autofocus and no in-camera aperture control on M42 lenses, since it has no coupling for such things." CreationDate="2010-08-08T19:39:38.100" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2045" PostId="957" Text="Actually, you are correct, the 60mm EF-S provides effectively the same field of view as a 96mm lens on a full-frame body. The EF-S 60mm Macro on APS-C would basically be like the 100mm Macro on FF." CreationDate="2010-08-08T19:41:22.090" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2046" PostId="2208" Text="so What range do I get with these lenses? just 42mm prime? I already have a canon 50/f1.8" CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:07:08.037" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="2047" PostId="2204" Score="2" Text="The rule is: if you can recognize someone you need a release, unless you are shooting in an editorial context in which case no release needed.  Most contests I have been involved with (mostly local inside photography circles) accepted photos in an editorial context (the photos were just for show and not for sale), the rest were ambiguous.  I think what I am saying is don't be hesitant to use a picture because the terms of the contest are confusing.  Unless you are selling the photo there is no real reason to worry (but still read the terms)." CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:10:48.777" UserId="907" />
  <row Id="2048" PostId="2208" Text="42 is the size of the mount, which has nothing to do with focal length. For example, you can get Pentacon 135mm f/2.8 with M42 mount." CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:14:33.370" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2049" PostId="479" Text="Generally speaking, we like to keep our titles free of tags. It helps provide a cleaner experience to those browsing questions. As such, I've removed the '[beginner]' term from the title. The question was already tagged with `[beginner]`, so those interested in information for beginners will still easily be able to find this. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:14:51.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2050" PostId="1681" Score="1" Text="I'm not really sure the inverse holds true. You should be free to use whatever focal length you wish, regardless of what your shutter speed is. The general rule of thumb is that to avoid hand-held camera shake, you need to use a shutter speed that is the reciprocal of the focal length." CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:33:15.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2051" PostId="2213" Score="1" Text="Were the articles attacking amateurs because of giving out otherwise valuable images for $0.01, or was it something else?" CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:48:32.117" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2052" PostId="2213" Score="1" Text="The article, as a side theme, was claiming a need for a &quot;Photographer Certification&quot; which would weed out the &quot;amateurs who don't belong in the industry.&quot;  However, I think a discussion of the article is outside the scope of this discussion and site." CreationDate="2010-08-08T20:59:20.920" UserId="907" />
  <row Id="2053" PostId="2214" Score="8" Text="+1. It's just about money - if photography is a meaningful source of income, you're a pro, if not, you're an amateur. Same distinction as in any other field." CreationDate="2010-08-08T23:11:15.210" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2054" PostId="2207" Text="There were two aperture control mechanisms used on various M42 lenses: automatic and half-manual. The automatic mode had a little pin on the lens and a corresponding pusher on the body. The aperture ring in fact just sets the aperture closing limit on the lens; the body is pushing full throttle during exposure. &#xA;&#xA;The half-manual mode was found on a few soviet lenses. The lens had two aperture rings. One sets the limit in steps, another is a free floating ring that actually closes the aperture till the stop. So you close the aperture before shooting and open back when looking for a shot.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-08T23:46:33.447" UserId="341" />
  <row Id="2055" PostId="1956" Score="2" Text="can you point me to some really good m42 primes that are less than 100 bucks? Where should I find them and what adapter should I buy?" CreationDate="2010-08-08T23:54:14.477" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="2056" PostId="2172" Score="1" Text="hey alan, yeah, the diffuser and reflector stuff is not great for street photography that I like to take, but great general advice, and I'll definitely be trying a polarizing filter and more shadow play, cheers" CreationDate="2010-08-09T00:29:11.003" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2057" PostId="2167" Text="thanks john, great advice on the filters. yep, RAW all the way, and sometimes ILFORD film." CreationDate="2010-08-09T00:30:07.867" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2058" PostId="2177" Score="1" Text="hey matt, great advice, and the pictures really helped. Yeah, not into flash, and I quite like flare, but the other advice has already given me some ideas to go out and try. I think particularly knowing yous space, and waiting for that little longer light is excellent advice" CreationDate="2010-08-09T00:33:52.087" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2059" PostId="2167" Text="No prob Andy, good luck with the shots, I'd be curious to see them." CreationDate="2010-08-09T00:47:34.337" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2061" PostId="2224" Text="sorry, I forgot to mark this CW after noting that in my comment. I am merely curious to see what photographs people store as their inspiration." CreationDate="2010-08-09T01:20:23.233" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="2062" PostId="970" Text="+1 Excellent answer. Very clearly explained." CreationDate="2010-08-09T02:20:07.100" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2063" PostId="2224" Score="5" Text="I think it's an interesting question. We did talk on meta about the value of keeping the artistic side of photography in mind and not getting swamped in the technical parts, and this question seems to me very appropriate in that regard." CreationDate="2010-08-09T02:22:03.460" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2064" PostId="2224" Score="3" Text="I agree with Reid. It is far too easy for a site such as this to forget that photography is also an art. Frankly, if it does, I, for one, would soon lose interest. I'll let DP Review stand as an example of a site that has been smart enough to ensure that the artistic isn't lost in the technical. Frankly, I'd love to see some photo challenge threads here. " CreationDate="2010-08-09T02:41:31.383" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2065" PostId="2230" Text="That is a remarkably stunning image." CreationDate="2010-08-09T03:10:14.623" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2066" PostId="2200" Text="great answer man, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-09T03:29:56.520" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2067" PostId="2231" Text="Sigma has 10-20mm f/4-5.6 and 10-20mm f/3.5 lenses." CreationDate="2010-08-09T04:58:40.583" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2068" PostId="2224" Text="I totally agree as well. I think this is a great idea. I just thought I would post a warning so that if the thread was closed for any reason, it wouldn't be too surprising. ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-09T05:09:06.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2069" PostId="2234" Text="I guess that's possible; it seems a stupid way to do it, though.  &#xA;&#xA;Particularly since my Panasonic lens gets corrections applied on my Olympus E-PL1 body (and I believe the reverse is true - Olympus lenses get corrected on Panasonic bodies).  It would require both a software and firmware upgrade each time a new µ4/3 lens was released by anyone." CreationDate="2010-08-09T06:40:18.453" UserId="145" />
  <row Id="2070" PostId="2231" Text="Oops, I meant 10-20mm, not 10-22mm. corrected." CreationDate="2010-08-09T06:47:17.177" UserId="4" />
  <row Id="2071" PostId="2164" Text="+1: great article indeed!" CreationDate="2010-08-09T06:58:48.650" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="2072" PostId="2177" Text="@Andy - veiling flare isn't the one that produces colorful reflections or polygons. It's just a general loss of contrast across the scene, there's not much to like about that particular kind of flare." CreationDate="2010-08-09T08:28:40.323" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2074" PostId="2213" Text="Hah!  I can't even begin to imagine what certification would entail.  If I know all about apertures, would that be enough to certify me?  If I don't know about high key photography, could I not get paid to shoot something?" CreationDate="2010-08-09T12:55:53.853" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2075" PostId="2245" Text="Wow, cool movie concept.  I'd like to see it!" CreationDate="2010-08-09T13:19:06.177" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2076" PostId="2186" Text="Thanks. So to sum up, there are basically 3 different mounts? (K, M, and KR)? I can use K &amp; M directly (some may have to be manual exposure), but KR needs an extra pin removed (DIY removal possible?).&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-09T13:36:40.243" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="2077" PostId="2186" Text="For the screw mount lenses, are they like any kind of screw mount? or do they have to be Pentax screw mount?" CreationDate="2010-08-09T13:37:49.240" UserId="297" />
  <row Id="2078" PostId="2245" Text="I agree, i'd like to see that movie, too.  Stumbling around IMDB keyword search for a few minutes didn't turn anything up.  Does anyone have more insight into this movie?  thanks. &#xA;   " CreationDate="2010-08-09T13:53:34.180" UserId="240" />
  <row Id="2079" PostId="2213" Text="Certification with PPA (Rangefinder is WPPI I believe?) covers booklearning, such as the technical stuff involving ISO/aperture/shutter speed, how cameras work, color management and how to use a light meter, but you also have to be judged on a portfolio of 20 photographs that represent the quality of your work for hire.  Passing that part can be difficult, I hear." CreationDate="2010-08-09T13:58:21.627" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2080" PostId="2187" Text="As an accessory for a photographic camera, I don't consider this question to be off-topic." CreationDate="2010-08-09T14:51:03.370" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="2081" PostId="2245" Text="I want to say it was a Dennis Hopper movie, and I remember that he used a Canon slr, like the FX from 1964.  However, none of the Dennis Hopper movies on imdb ring a bell as far as titles go.  So maybe it wasn't him?  I wish I could remember, because the movie really did influence me as a photographer." CreationDate="2010-08-09T15:04:37.473" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2083" PostId="2186" Text="@Johannes: K, M, F, FA, DA are lens series.  They are all K-mount.&#xA;&#xA;KR is a K-mount with an extra pin, DIY necessary.  I have not used any KR lenses.  &#xA;&#xA;All &quot;screwmounts&quot; people refer to are are M42 with the exception of rangefinder ones, which should be labeled as M39 or LTM (Leica).  Some russian lenses from Zenit cameras are this type.  T-mounts are also screw-type but should be labeled appropriately." CreationDate="2010-08-09T16:30:00.337" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2084" PostId="2255" Score="6" Text="I think your location plays important role here." CreationDate="2010-08-09T16:32:22.987" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2085" PostId="2253" Score="1" Text="The white balance picking tool usually works on the green/purple scale too, that's why it's better. I've used it a lot in tricky lightning situations. The influence of correct white balance is usually underestimated until you see the correct version." CreationDate="2010-08-09T16:41:45.500" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2086" PostId="2253" Score="1" Text="Yeah, the correct term is probably &quot;color balance&quot; as it works on both axes. I totally agree, though...once you finally see a photo that is properly corrected for white balance, its pretty amazing." CreationDate="2010-08-09T17:16:14.390" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2087" PostId="2255" Score="7" Text="Probably worth mentioning that &quot;Senior session&quot; (in fact, the term &quot;senior&quot; meaning a high-school student itself) is pretty uniquely American." CreationDate="2010-08-09T17:28:23.403" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2088" PostId="2251" Score="1" Text="The company has made cameras since 1953, you may be more familiar with it's Contax brand. So, it should be a pretty decent camera if it only works properly." CreationDate="2010-08-09T17:41:35.823" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2089" PostId="2221" Score="9" Text="What prevents you from taking photos like in the magazines?  Perhaps post a link to a photo you took, and one you'd like to take?" CreationDate="2010-08-09T18:13:59.783" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="2090" PostId="2261" Text="+1 James. Well said." CreationDate="2010-08-09T18:21:12.890" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2091" PostId="2265" Text="This &quot;accepted&quot; view is generally only because most of the published specifications only provide sensor light absorption and sensitivity information from about 400nm through 750nm, the visible light range. Most of this information indicates that the blue photosites on a sensor peak at around 380-400nm, but do not show where they begin. Independent third-party studies show that the UV sensitivity of digital CCD and CMOS sensors starts much higher, from 250nm down to as low as 200nm." CreationDate="2010-08-09T18:30:50.407" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2092" PostId="2208" Text="@CodeToGlory: The 42mm refers to the diameter of the mount, not the focal length. You can get a wide variety of focal lengths for this mount, and they seem to be priced pretty well. They probably won't be as versatile as a lens designed specifically for your camera, but they would be cheaper." CreationDate="2010-08-09T18:45:26.147" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2093" PostId="2207" Score="1" Text="There are a plethora of camera bodies with the M42 mount other than the Zeiss Contax.&#xA;&#xA;@egorFiNE: Most, if not all adapters do not push the little pin on the edge to get automatic aperture working.  Instead, the Aperture/Manual switch works as the preset aperture lenses (which you call half-manual).  See my answer." CreationDate="2010-08-09T18:53:23.557" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2096" PostId="2259" Score="4" Text="$2 for gas .... man, where do you live :o)" CreationDate="2010-08-09T19:23:41.647" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="2097" PostId="2259" Text="Just an example, haha, perhaps you're only going around the block?" CreationDate="2010-08-09T19:25:54.077" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2100" PostId="2261" Score="1" Text="Agreed. The price of a product or service is what the market will bear. Production costs have no bearing on the price, only whether it is economically feasible to provide the product or service at that price." CreationDate="2010-08-09T19:41:38.687" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2101" PostId="2241" Score="2" Text="Not what you asked, but the 20mm f/1.7 Panasonic is a wonderful lens." CreationDate="2010-08-09T20:39:41.497" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2102" PostId="410" Text="I have to agree that the 10-22 is a great lens for the smaller sensor.  I've rented one on numerous occasions and it is really a great wide angle for the small sensor cameras." CreationDate="2010-08-09T20:49:24.047" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="2103" PostId="2275" Text="Relevant question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1783/how-to-focus-in-complete-darkness/1785" CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:04:33.607" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2104" PostId="2214" Score="4" Text="Remember to read 'making money' a little liberally; e.g., you can have a failing business and still be a pro." CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:10:22.140" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2105" PostId="2268" Text="Wow, lots of good information here.  Do you have any sources to cite?" CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:11:54.557" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2106" PostId="2275" Score="2" Text="No focusing screen sounds a bit weird - do you mean an old-style split-prism focusing screen? Fundamentally any SLR has a focusing screen, otherwise you couldn't use the viewfinder." CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:12:04.290" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2107" PostId="2277" Text="Edited to explain use scenarios.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:14:19.410" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="2108" PostId="2268" Text="I do, however they are bookmarked at home. Also, sadly, most of them were PDF scientific papers. The best one had to do with scientific imaging in UV, and discussed alternative lens element materials like quartz and fluoride derivatives. I'll see if I can dig them up." CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:25:04.377" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2109" PostId="2275" Score="1" Text="If you need a focusing screen, you can find some here: http://www.focusingscreen.com/index.php?cPath=21_106" CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:31:30.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2110" PostId="2253" Text="Just an example of a WB headache I worked on lately (somewhat similar to lightning strike as part of the light source is electric discharge): http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-yoT3Wnz6VY/TGBx0Ju3T1I/AAAAAAAAJPY/3o0pdv65ylU/s1600/_MG_1395_final.jpg. Not a promotion of any kind, just didn't want to sound arrogant in the first comment." CreationDate="2010-08-09T21:35:26.133" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2111" PostId="2253" Text="Ah, I never thought you sounded arrogant. ;P Its a good point though, that proper color balance involves more than just temperature, it also involves tint (green/magenta shift). Very interesting shot, BTW...love the high rate of motion in the train." CreationDate="2010-08-09T22:01:25.790" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2112" PostId="970" Text="If you compensate 1/60 to 1/160-1/250 you're actually underexposing, aren't you?" CreationDate="2010-08-09T22:01:40.330" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2114" PostId="2267" Text="http://www.dpreview.com/articles/distortion/page2.asp gives some details.  It seems that Adobe Camera Raw also picks up this information in the raw files." CreationDate="2010-08-10T00:23:08.510" UserId="145" />
  <row Id="2115" PostId="2187" Text="It's not used for *actually taking photos* though, but for *making video*.  Just because you plug it into a DSLR with video mode doesn't make it any more on topic than if it plugs into a RED." CreationDate="2010-08-10T01:31:04.997" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2116" PostId="2288" Score="2" Text="I know KRock doesn't have the best rep, but I got a lot out of his site on how to use my D90 that was, um, a little impenetrable with the manual.  You do, of course, have to read it with a grain of salt and realize that he may have different values and goals than you do." CreationDate="2010-08-10T01:51:52.060" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2117" PostId="2291" Text="Are you shooting RAW?" CreationDate="2010-08-10T02:19:21.230" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2118" PostId="2291" Text="What post-processing software do you have at your disposal?" CreationDate="2010-08-10T02:23:00.347" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2119" PostId="2287" Text="Our 20D came with the non-IS 18-55 EF-S lens, and it's getting bundled with it when we sell it.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-10T02:53:33.690" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="2120" PostId="2285" Text="We have an 18-55 non-IS kit lens with the 20D which we are selling to finance part of the new camera.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-10T02:56:36.380" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="2122" PostId="2291" Text="Yes, shooting RAW, with Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 2.  I can certainly adjust later." CreationDate="2010-08-10T03:26:46.527" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2123" PostId="2292" Score="1" Text="Under coloured lights, grey/white objects can't be used to set a white point in post." CreationDate="2010-08-10T03:44:21.033" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2124" PostId="2293" Text="Adjusting to the background depends a little on the character of the background; if it's bright enough to be noticeable, you need to account for it.  But on the other hand, for reproducing the coloured lights, or if the coloured lighting is especially dominant, you should balance to the bulbs behind the gels/filters.  In a club, for example, background is often negligible. Also, a grey card's a non-starter under coloured light." CreationDate="2010-08-10T03:46:36.603" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2125" PostId="2269" Score="1" Text="Remembering the value of work is an excellent point to make." CreationDate="2010-08-10T04:12:37.447" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2126" PostId="970" Text="@Karel: you are absolutely correct. I can't believe that I missed that. Will fix immediately." CreationDate="2010-08-10T06:36:14.150" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="2127" PostId="2298" Text="I'm using a Pentax K10D. I've just noticed that the focus indicator is going to help :-)" CreationDate="2010-08-10T08:03:10.267" UserId="874" />
  <row Id="2128" PostId="450" Text="UniWB is a technique to make the most out of your in-camera histogram: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/664/what-is-universal-white-balance-uniwb. @jrista - feel free to update your answer according to this info if you think it's relevant." CreationDate="2010-08-10T08:40:56.400" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2129" PostId="2309" Score="1" Text="Kevin Carter's obituary in Time is worth reading not just for the story of his iconic photograph, but also for the toll the work took on him.  http://www.time.com/time/printout/0,8816,981431,00.html" CreationDate="2010-08-10T08:47:12.890" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2130" PostId="2303" Text="what lens were you using on your Rebel?" CreationDate="2010-08-10T09:34:58.320" UserId="131" />
  <row Id="2131" PostId="2314" Text="Also another thing I would consider is just getting a second hand body like the 50d, and spending more money on the lenses. " CreationDate="2010-08-10T11:36:41.427" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="2132" PostId="2303" Text="Modified the question to add details.  Can't yet vote up." CreationDate="2010-08-10T12:04:10.580" UserId="951" />
  <row Id="2133" PostId="2314" Text="I like the idea of being able to shoot HD video with the Rebel, and 50d bodies don't appear to be selling for much less than the new Rebel bodies.  I'll definitely add the 60mm to the research list, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-10T12:09:04.300" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="2135" PostId="2253" Score="1" Text="Thanks - this is the type of environment that drives my obsession for optimal data:)" CreationDate="2010-08-10T13:20:23.540" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2136" PostId="2293" Text="I think that suggests further the pre-show access: one could ask the lighting people to show some lights with no gels, and balance on that." CreationDate="2010-08-10T13:38:21.653" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2137" PostId="2319" Text="I don't mean Lightroom or ACR, but editing in Photoshop for example." CreationDate="2010-08-10T14:21:18.477" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2138" PostId="2319" Score="1" Text="Photoshop is a (mostly) destructive editor, so the second section applies, however, there are some types of edits that can be done in a non-destructive way (usually through the use of layers)." CreationDate="2010-08-10T14:25:14.193" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2139" PostId="1596" Text="@Reid, what else would equivalent focal length mean? Clearly, it's not a physical measurement of focal length, or else it would be focal length.  That's the definition of equivalent... it is equivalent in some other fashion (field of view) to the focal length of ###mm on 35mm.&#xA;&#xA;Equivalent field of view, for example, does not make sense.  That **is** it's field of view.&#xA;&#xA;If you want to re-educate everyone, I support you in making a chart of the focal lengths in all the different formats and their field of views in the FAQ.&#xA;&#xA;This is like applied vs theoretical physicists having a discussion." CreationDate="2010-08-10T14:57:30.233" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2140" PostId="502" Text="A couple of Pentax ones that Dimitrov missed (moved from separate answer):&#xA;&#xA;**Lens Coating** - **SMC** : Super Multi Coat&#xA;&#xA;**Quiet Focusing Motors** - **SDM** : Supersonic Drive Motor" CreationDate="2010-08-10T15:28:51.957" UserId="443" />
  <row Id="2141" PostId="1596" Score="1" Text="The point is that *effective focal length* does not exist. It's a complete misnomer. Our argument is that saying e.g. *effective field of view of 50mm* communicates exactly the same thing as *effective focal length of 50mm* and does not perpetuate confusion." CreationDate="2010-08-10T15:36:45.203" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2142" PostId="1141" Text="You could also add the slightly more expensive [Canon EF 28mm f/1.8 USM](http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_28_1_8_usm). I've got it and it's a lovely lens." CreationDate="2010-08-10T15:50:31.087" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2143" PostId="2274" Text="Update:  Thanks everyone for the great advice!  At this point I'm leaning toward buying the body only and using the money saved to pay for a 50mm 1.8 lens.  I've been studying the new 15-85 EF-S very closely and although it's not inexpensive it sounds like the perfect walk around lens for us." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:00:06.800" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="2145" PostId="1596" Text="We just need to drop the term and start using focal lengths only, unless we're specifically describing the difference between sensor formats. &quot;Effective focal length&quot; is *only* used in small-format digital photography, and despite a chart in a manual here and there (like Bronica), has never been particularly popular when comparing formats before now.  **People are smart enough to know what &quot;45mm&quot; means to them**, and in a large number of cases descriptors like &quot;normal&quot; or &quot;wide angle&quot; are perfectly adequate." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:30:11.493" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2146" PostId="1596" Text="@Reid, so you are arguing semantics/terminology.  Please clarify your position of agreeing or disagreeing with my idea of going to a common format over crop factors and degree numbers." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:33:48.913" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2147" PostId="2268" Text="I am not sure I actually bookmarked any of the stuff I've read about IR and UV imaging with digital cameras. There is a moderate amount of information available on the subject, but I remember most of it being contained within PDF's, usually some scientific paper or official study of some kind. I will have to redo my searches to get you citeable references. " CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:34:04.933" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2148" PostId="1596" Text="@matt, Yes, in most cases.  My point is when a photographer is asking about what lens to use in a basketball court on the sidelines, having never been to one.  The answer is different between APS-C and FF.  If you read my answer, this is one of the few situations where it would even need to be brought up.  He does not know what 45mm means to him at the basketball court or any other environment he has never set foot in. He needs to know the equivalent field of view." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:36:23.727" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2149" PostId="2319" Score="3" Text="In Photoshop, try to use _**adjustment layers**_ and _**layer masks**_ when you can. These allow you to do common adjustments in a non-destructive way. I've also recently learned that some quality sharpening techniques (involving copied layers, slight blurring, inversions, and opacity) can be done with multiple layers and layer blending, allowing you to sharpen your image in a non-destructive way. Photoshop is a powerful tool, and with a little care, you can use it effectively as a non-destructive editor." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:42:00.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2150" PostId="1596" Text="@Eruditass: no, I'm done here. This is a long discussion and I don't understand your position. Feel free to open a new question on meta." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:44:18.380" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2151" PostId="2323" Text="Thanks. I like your experiment. I will try shooting in RAW.  If it is just the white balance algorithm that should have an effect in all modes.  I'll report back in a few days after I have used the S90 a bit more. " CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:47:02.010" UserId="951" />
  <row Id="2152" PostId="1596" Text="@Reid, please ask questions and understand the position before injecting criticisms." CreationDate="2010-08-10T17:59:39.003" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2153" PostId="2321" Text="I don't count photons, but every once in a while I discover that some step down the line renders my image unusable. And this is not because of some extreme editing, but rather extreme shooting conditions (just a recent example: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-yoT3Wnz6VY/TGBx0Ju3T1I/AAAAAAAAJPY/3o0pdv65ylU/s1600/_MG_1395_final.jpg)." CreationDate="2010-08-10T18:05:36.467" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2154" PostId="1296" Score="1" Text="Just to follow up, I now shoot in AF-S mode, and use the AF-L button when I want rapid fire at my command." CreationDate="2010-08-10T18:17:18.890" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2155" PostId="1596" Text="Sorry to seem short. My point is that I've been following this discussion since the beginning, it's been going on long enough, and it doesn't seem to be going anywhere. Thus, I'm tired of participating. There's a new question on meta FWIW." CreationDate="2010-08-10T18:24:07.660" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2156" PostId="2321" Text="What don't you like about that image?  It seems that you have a few particular images in mind, so maybe looking at fixing individual images might be the way to go to get a sense of how to make an overall workflow. " CreationDate="2010-08-10T18:28:49.570" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2157" PostId="1596" Text="@Eruditass Yes, there are always exceptions.  But even to your hypothetical I'd suggest that &quot;wide&quot; is sufficient, as people do tend to reason fairly well from experience, and it is likely he's been in a gymnasium before, or attended a sporting event other than basketball.  If he thinks that means 18mm where you might suggest 24mm precisely, that's not a big deal; he may be correct in the sense that he likes the results, or he may learn from the experience.  Neither one of those outcomes is a particular problem." CreationDate="2010-08-10T18:35:23.863" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2158" PostId="2319" Score="1" Text="Note, however, that Photoshop Smart Objects allow quite a bit more non-destructive editing -- and will prevent you from accidentally doing any destructive edits by accident (you need to convert it back to a normal layer first)." CreationDate="2010-08-10T18:51:30.350" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="2159" PostId="1596" Text="@Matt, your counter-argument ignores my requirement of the person never having set foot in the area.  What about a new sport with a new sized arena across the country, what focal-length (equivalents) are required for the closest and furthest spots of the arena? What prime lenses and zoom lenses should he buy, rent, and bring?  What about a particular concert venue and known disatnce? What prime to bring? That is a legitimate question and when deciding to use a new standard for discussion, one needs to address these potential situations.  Otherwise, what is the point of creating a new standard?" CreationDate="2010-08-10T19:29:35.853" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2160" PostId="2267" Text="Note that the data is included in the *RAW* files, not the JPEGs. I think you are out of luck if you are looking at JPEGs, as those will already be corrected." CreationDate="2010-08-10T19:33:01.540" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="2161" PostId="1596" Text="@Eruditass No, it doesn't. It simply assumes a real person who has typical life experience, from which they can extrapolate; I think any other assumption is pedantry.  Even at a known distance, opinion will vary: 85? 105? 135? 80-200? Where will they set it? You make a mountain of a molehill." CreationDate="2010-08-10T19:42:39.660" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2162" PostId="1596" Text="@Matt, you say it doesn't ignore the requirement, then you go on about you are ignoring my requirement.  Opinion will not vary if one person wants specific information to get head-shots or upper-body portraits from 3 rows back in a regular music venue.  That is a question is perfectly suited for this kind of site.&#xA;&#xA;If you want to make arguments for a new standard (since there isn't really one now), you better get used to this kind of analysis before blindly accepting one." CreationDate="2010-08-10T19:58:05.160" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2163" PostId="2325" Score="2" Text="Remember that for any given image, the criteria listed below might be very important, or might not apply at all.  For example, this photo http://farm1.static.flickr.com/18/70458366_7a26052091.jpg is blurry, front focussed, has fairly large distortion to its perspective from the angle, and lacks any significant horizontal or vertical reference.  It's still technically proficient in many other ways, when combined with its subjective qualities, more than enough to still be a successful photo." CreationDate="2010-08-10T19:59:23.457" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2164" PostId="2329" Score="6" Text="A well-chosen subject for the notion of a technically correct photo! :)" CreationDate="2010-08-10T20:03:43.807" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2165" PostId="1596" Text="@Eruditass OK, let me put it this way: your &quot;requirement&quot; is a  straw man who does not exist, and your example is contrived to the point of parody.  Specific information to get head-shots or upper-body portraits from 3 rows back in a regular music venue? Do you maintain the &quot;requirement&quot; that they have never set foot in any music venue from which they could extrapolate? How does *anyone* give a specific answer to that question? You've used up my 'benefit of the doubt' here, this is a waste of time." CreationDate="2010-08-10T20:12:24.427" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2166" PostId="1596" Text="@Matt, fair enough.  I rescind my requirement of having never set in to having never paid attention, although there are plenty of places I've love to shoot that I've never been and cant check out.  I have been to many concerts but never brought a camera before.  I am still working on my intuition of distances, field of view, and framing.  Before I go, I'd ask those who have taken pictures in venues with real experience what kind of equivalent field of views for distances, as I'd likely bring only one lens, and it would be a prime for low light and discreteness.&#xA;&#xA;I'll make sure not to ask you." CreationDate="2010-08-10T20:23:43.493" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2167" PostId="2051" Text="Well, as a musician who's played in a lot of dimly lit bars, I personally like having my picture taken.  Personally I'd find a strobe less distracting than a focus assist, which would probably blend in with a lot of the other lights already shinning in your face." CreationDate="2010-08-10T20:33:33.500" UserId="832" />
  <row Id="2168" PostId="2333" Text="Phase-detect auto-focus on many DSLR bodiess are also open-loop.  I know Canon is open-loop and believe Pentax is semi-open-loop (it takes a second look).  The exception is Contrast-Detect auto-focus.&#xA;&#xA;See here: http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/Canon%20AF%20System.htm" CreationDate="2010-08-10T21:10:53.007" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2169" PostId="2335" Text="A couple of quibbles: you don't have to switch viewfinders for every lens. Typical focal lengths (28-90) work well with the built-in finders of modern RFs.  Also, they aren't scale focus; rangefinder focus is very accurate (though typically only up to about 90mm or 135mm at the extreme)." CreationDate="2010-08-10T21:25:05.587" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2170" PostId="2333" Text="I'd disagree that RFs are difficult to calibrate in general; for simple cameras like the Canonet, it's something that can be done at home, and for complex/delicate work it's a specialist job, which isn't any different from adjusting SLR focus behaviour.  In the end, everyone relies on well-maintained equipment." CreationDate="2010-08-10T21:31:23.343" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2171" PostId="2298" Score="1" Text="Note that the K10D also has focus-trap mode: if you set the body to auto-focus with a manual lens, the shutter won't trigger until something in the center circle is in focus." CreationDate="2010-08-10T21:34:55.327" UserId="634" />
  <row Id="2172" PostId="2334" Text="A minor quibble that you switch finders only for wide lenses; it depends on the model, but 28mm is a typical cut-off point." CreationDate="2010-08-10T21:35:49.833" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2173" PostId="2333" Text="@Eruditass: a little Googling doesn't turn up any definitive answers w.r.t. closed/open loop. But the system could easily be closed, so I suspect some manufacturers do it. @matt: that's just what I've read, that rangefinders are tricky to keep in calibration. I've never used a rangefinder myself." CreationDate="2010-08-10T22:25:44.740" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2174" PostId="2286" Text="Live View Zoom is a feature on the 1000D, and sounds like a good idea.  I'll also check if I can use AF-Assist (Auto-Focus Assist) without popping the flash.  Thanks, Everyone, for the tips." CreationDate="2010-08-10T22:42:51.383" UserId="671" />
  <row Id="2175" PostId="2322" Text="This is especially helpful for macro shots where the DOF is so narrow and thus getting the focus right is critical." CreationDate="2010-08-10T22:43:47.623" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2176" PostId="2066" Text="In terms of answers so far, I think they have been pretty reasonable, and particularly practical. Answerers seem to have largely left any personal preference or religious dogma out of the arguments. Thats one of the things I like about this community, well rounded, level-headed, scientifically minded folks. :D" CreationDate="2010-08-10T23:53:31.487" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2177" PostId="2328" Score="2" Text="+1 for the artistic vision statement. After all, technically correct isn't the same as saying a photo 'says something' to the viewer. In fact, in some ways, when somebody comments that a photo is technically correct, they're pretty much saying it didn't touch them." CreationDate="2010-08-11T01:11:56.667" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2178" PostId="844" Text="Seems like a possibility that DX cameras/lenses might go by the way side eventually.  (3? 5? 7? 10? years).  So that tride and true 80% lens resale value might not be as rock solid.  Still, I'd go for the DX unless you're oozing money." CreationDate="2010-08-11T01:48:41.803" UserId="652" />
  <row Id="2179" PostId="844" Score="3" Text="@Jody, I think that's unlikely; DX cameras will always be smaller and cheaper to make than FX ones. And there's even a growing body of smaller sensors (4/3). Thus, IMO it's highly unlikely that DX will disappear." CreationDate="2010-08-11T02:20:32.197" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2180" PostId="671" Text="I've now used Camera Control from http://www.diyphotobits.com/.  It's OK; downloads a duplicate of the shots and shows a preview.  What I wasn't anticipating is how slow the process would be, relatively speaking.  I am using a somewhat slow laptop, and shooting in a RAW+JPG mode.  It takes a couple of seconds just to download the ~15-20MB of data and render the preview." CreationDate="2010-08-11T02:58:33.230" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2181" PostId="2297" Score="1" Text="Definitely, the focus indicators help, however when DOF is narrow and objects are small, such suggestions are not very precise." CreationDate="2010-08-11T03:21:21.223" UserId="874" />
  <row Id="2182" PostId="2333" Text="@Reid I suspect you read about it 'cause it's one of the trickier bits of mechanical adjustment that an amateur camera repairman can do.  That aspect is true enough, but it's no more a day-to-day concern than SLR backfocus (which some people obsess over as well)." CreationDate="2010-08-11T04:16:16.683" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2183" PostId="2331" Score="1" Text="The color cast of Cokin filter may be an issue on digital as well, especially with graduated filters where only the part of the image that is darkened will get the (typically warmer) shade." CreationDate="2010-08-11T07:19:28.420" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="2184" PostId="2331" Text="@Fredrik Mörk: Good point. For a solid ND filter it wouldn't be a problem, bur for a graduated ND filter it would." CreationDate="2010-08-11T07:45:47.827" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2185" PostId="2353" Score="1" Text="One issue... &quot;... simple old age, etc. Barring any of these ... should last for decades.&quot;  might want to change that ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-11T10:19:55.937" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2186" PostId="2331" Score="1" Text="Example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/brentbat/2372603825/" CreationDate="2010-08-11T11:54:48.573" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2187" PostId="2331" Text="I can also say from my own experience that Cokin has a strong purple cast, although in some situations it could work in your favor. Just be aware that they are not really neutral." CreationDate="2010-08-11T11:59:08.597" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2188" PostId="2358" Score="6" Text="Did you try to open the photos from your PC in a _browser_? That would rule out both Flickr problem and calibration problem, leaving you with browser problem. Which in turn is not related to color space, as you use sRGB. Could the default bright background play a trick with your perception?" CreationDate="2010-08-11T12:01:14.053" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2189" PostId="2360" Text="Can you provide a reference that Lees are glass?" CreationDate="2010-08-11T13:10:27.637" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2190" PostId="2187" Text="The question you should be asking yourself is: where do DSLR experts go? I think the answer will be: here. Since I'm looking for a camera accessory, I'll get more relevant answers here, not on a video forum. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-11T13:20:50.700" UserId="890" />
  <row Id="2191" PostId="2252" Text="Cool, it looks nice and the price isn't bad. I'll see if I can find it in shops here in Sweden." CreationDate="2010-08-11T13:21:52.290" UserId="890" />
  <row Id="2192" PostId="2329" Text="Fantastic example.. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-11T13:39:48.847" UserId="961" />
  <row Id="2193" PostId="2326" Text="Thanks chills42.. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-11T13:44:43.327" UserId="961" />
  <row Id="2194" PostId="2359" Score="4" Text="I think it would help if you could post an example image you want to make transparent." CreationDate="2010-08-11T14:24:13.013" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2195" PostId="1299" Text="The term &quot;slow sync&quot; is worth mentioning." CreationDate="2010-08-11T14:44:49.393" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2196" PostId="2364" Text="Good points. I have considered the 35mm prime since I shoot indoors often... but I like the idea of zoom for just the reason you mention - walking around.  I also have a tough time justifying $1k more than a 1.8f prime though..." CreationDate="2010-08-11T14:58:36.457" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2197" PostId="2352" Score="1" Text="Great question!" CreationDate="2010-08-11T15:07:14.643" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2198" PostId="2345" Text="great suggestions!" CreationDate="2010-08-11T15:12:54.757" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="2199" PostId="2328" Text="Perfectly said Karel." CreationDate="2010-08-11T15:19:52.767" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="2200" PostId="36" Text="Kelby's books are very good. Practical, clear and informative." CreationDate="2010-08-11T15:24:17.370" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="2202" PostId="2358" Text="What happens when you view the original size images, as opposed to any downsized images?  They might do something strange when they downsize the images." CreationDate="2010-08-11T16:12:08.277" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2203" PostId="2367" Text="I have the Tamron 90mm, and it's definitely a great macro lens. But I find it's way too tight for portrait work on a crop-factor camera; you have to be across the room for a person to be framed correctly." CreationDate="2010-08-11T16:28:53.660" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2204" PostId="2364" Text="If you're looking to get/use ONLY 1 lens, then it might be worth your while to get the 28-70. But the 50 and the 35 are so cheap that you'd have to value convenience a lot to make that decision worthwhile." CreationDate="2010-08-11T16:31:15.047" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2205" PostId="2259" Score="1" Text="The average cost to operate a car is $0.70 per mile (forgot where I saw this).  That includes gas, maintenance, tires, etc.  I use this figure in my billing a lot though." CreationDate="2010-08-11T16:42:15.347" UserId="907" />
  <row Id="2206" PostId="2367" Text="Depends on how you do your portraits, and in what kind of space.  I like to do upper body portraits, and I've managed to do (what I think of as) good work across a table with the 85mm.  As in: http://www.markmroden.com/Weddings/Jon-and-Jen/The-Reception/3166504_yyXcz#174113296_CKLhk " CreationDate="2010-08-11T16:48:03.203" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2207" PostId="2191" Text="If you're in the US then just get them off Amazon as per the links, if not you might find them cheaper (after postage gets added) on eBay — I found mine searching for something to the effect of &quot;canon 450d battery grip timer&quot;." CreationDate="2010-08-11T18:46:44.110" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2208" PostId="2201" Text="The TC80N3 could also be modified to work on the 450D by cutting off its plug (for XD/XXD models) and putting the standard headphone jack (for XXXD/XXXXD models) on the end instead. Of course, a cheaper 3rd party remote would make more sense if you don't already have a TC80N3 (;" CreationDate="2010-08-11T18:52:13.677" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2209" PostId="2296" Text="This should probably be community wiki." CreationDate="2010-08-11T19:03:16.323" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2210" PostId="2375" Text="Chroma Key might be even better than white, if background replacement is the goal; that's what it's designed for." CreationDate="2010-08-11T19:11:56.663" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2211" PostId="2379" Text="Also, I might of missed an obvious tag, if so, don't be afraid to suggest one, or just go ahead and add it! :D" CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:04:17.540" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2212" PostId="2280" Text="I'll tag along with your answer.  It wasn't a camera, but working in the traditional BW darkroom that moved me from casual interest to all out passion.  Romances with cameras come and go.  It is the thrill of seeing the finished print, framed, and hanging on the wall that moves me." CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:07:03.693" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2213" PostId="2201" Text="I would probably have to be insane to chop up a $200 device, too. ;P" CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:10:30.753" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2214" PostId="2380" Text="I did read about the ziplock trick, I am glad something that simple worked for you. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:29:31.877" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2215" PostId="2380" Score="1" Text="It's also a good idea to take it out of the bag once it's warmed up to room temperature (which takes an hour or two).  You may have gotten snow on it, or some residual condensation, and letting the camera air out overnight will keep that from becoming a problem." CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:43:11.080" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2216" PostId="2375" Score="2" Text="Chroma Key won't work well with color transparency, or at least I have never gotten it to.  White preserves the colors. - &quot;My bottles are clear with different colored liquids with multiple refraction and reflection surfaces.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-11T20:58:26.770" UserId="907" />
  <row Id="2217" PostId="2380" Text="@matt: Good point. Updated answer to reflect that." CreationDate="2010-08-11T21:01:45.670" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2218" PostId="2380" Text="I live in Sweden and have rarely had any problems with condensation. I carry my camera bag wherever I go, so it has been out in temperatures below -30°C sometimes. :) Although, good advice if you want to be careful and aren't used to the conditions so that you know what it does to the equipment." CreationDate="2010-08-11T21:20:07.867" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2219" PostId="2380" Text="@Guffa: You profile says you've got a (weather-sealed) 5D Mk II and weather-sealed L lenses, which might behave a bit differently than Rebel XSi. (Even though our EOS 350D has been to the Alps a few times in only a camera bag with a bit o silica gel and had no apparent problems.)" CreationDate="2010-08-11T21:42:53.650" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2220" PostId="2380" Text="@Guffa - Yes, it can definitely vary. Partly it depends how cold your camera gets (in a bag or under a jacket helps dramatically), and partly on interior climate. When I'm in the Yukon it's often in small log cabins, usually with kettles constantly on the stove for tea, clothes drying, etc., and so *very* humid. Was definitely a problem there!" CreationDate="2010-08-11T21:45:12.433" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2221" PostId="2389" Text="When set to infinity (hyperfocal), the landscape in the background (what you can see of it) is in focus. The nearer lightning is not in focus." CreationDate="2010-08-11T23:36:22.640" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2222" PostId="2387" Text="All my focusing is done manually when I shoot things like this. I also use a tripod, a remote cable release, and mirror lockup, so I don't think camera shake is the problem. I have been using a wider aperture, 3.5 or 4. I'll try a tighter aperture and see if the larger DOF helps...I didn't think of that before." CreationDate="2010-08-11T23:37:18.677" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2223" PostId="2380" Text="@Guffa: Helan går, sjung &quot;hoppfadirallanlallanlej&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-11T23:51:22.520" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2224" PostId="2394" Score="1" Text="It matters whether you are increasing or decreasing the size; can you clarify? Also, for what purpose do you want to resize the image? That matters too." CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:03:32.027" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2225" PostId="2360" Text="Well, I could provide the reference, I googled before I posted my answer, but a quick double-check on B&amp;H shows that Tiffen makes glass filters for Cokin holders, and Lee makes &quot;resin&quot; filters for their system as well, so I guess I oversimplified by stating that Cokin = plastic, Lee = glass.  Thanks for calling me on it so I could correct my info here!&#xA;  " CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:08:37.943" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="2226" PostId="2395" Text="On a side note, I went the body-only route and separately grabbed the 16-85mm as my basic lens and have added a number of lenses since." CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:12:06.783" UserId="992" />
  <row Id="2227" PostId="2389" Text="@jrista What lens/aperture? You mention wides above, and if so, I'd be expecting hyperfocal distances in the 10m range wide open.  You're hopefully not THAT close to the lightning." CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:30:19.803" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2228" PostId="2393" Score="2" Text="Thanks for the DIY link! Great stuff! :D" CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:31:57.007" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2229" PostId="2394" Text="Are you using Photoshop and, if so, what version? Some of these concepts are based on old algorithms that have since been improved (as of CS2 in Photoshop)." CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:34:45.647" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2230" PostId="2380" Text="@che: I haven't had the 5d mk II and the 24-70 L lens very long, I have had a D60 for many years, and a bunch of cheaper lenses, none of which were weather sealed." CreationDate="2010-08-12T00:58:00.573" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2231" PostId="2380" Text="@Alan: The &quot;english&quot; version is actually about a priest named Alan: &quot;Hell and gore, shun gop Father Alan, lallan ley&quot; :)" CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:07:50.883" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2232" PostId="2389" Text="I'm currently using my Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 L II, however I've tried using my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro a couple times (without a whole lot of luck.) As for range...well, it varies, but I've been pretty close. We had a massive storm over my home only a few days ago, and a bolt struck so close it almost knocked me off my feet, and was so loud made my ears ring for about 5 minutes. I was sitting on my front porch when that happened...it was rather unexpected. Most ground strikes have been probably 150+ feet away, but not really terribly far, **very loud**...I seem to live in a hotspot." CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:08:21.367" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2233" PostId="2389" Text="Oh, in terms of actual aperture, I think it was pretty wide open. The last couple times were pretty intense, as the storms were literally right on top of me, and I spent most of my time trying to get decent focus. I don't think I really paid much attention to aperture, but the few shots I kept seem to be f/2.8 through f/4. " CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:15:01.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2234" PostId="2296" Text="I've never used community wiki but wow I'm glad I asked this question, there are so many interesting comments! Thanks everyone for all your comments!" CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:22:47.323" UserId="948" />
  <row Id="2235" PostId="2385" Score="2" Text="This is very speculative as I'm not familiar with the lens, but the example could *almost* be motion blur moving down and left.  Purely out of focus, I'd expect that top-right bolt to be an even brightness; it seems to be much brighter along it right-hand side.  The left bolt isn't as obvious, but doesn't seem to rule it out either.  Could easily be the lens; like I said, just speculation." CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:53:27.453" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2236" PostId="2389" Text="@jrista - very strange. The 100mm would definitely be very tricky; hyperfocal distance of 100s of feet at f/4.  But at 35mm, even wide open, I'd expect to work rather well, and 16mm would just improve the situation." CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:54:12.303" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2237" PostId="2387" Score="3" Text="A thought occurs: my **whole house** shakes during a big storm.  Maybe it's not the camera, but the thing holding it up?" CreationDate="2010-08-12T01:56:48.897" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2238" PostId="2387" Text="@matt: You know, I wonder if that might be what it is. The last couple storms, the lightning was right on top of me, and *I* could **feel** the shockwaves. I also had the thought that the foreground items are probably blurred because of the wind, as all of our recent storms have been very windy. " CreationDate="2010-08-12T02:41:14.250" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2239" PostId="2388" Text="I think the foreground was in focus, however thinking about it, both of the recent storms I've tried to photograph were very windy. Matt had the interesting idea that the shockwaves from the close strikes might have also affected the stability of my tripod, and given that I could feel the shockwaves myself, it certainly seems plausible." CreationDate="2010-08-12T02:42:40.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2240" PostId="2365" Text="+1 Wish this answered the question so I could accept it!  So far I think the best answer by far!" CreationDate="2010-08-12T03:33:33.830" UserId="907" />
  <row Id="2241" PostId="2374" Text="lol that's interesting" CreationDate="2010-08-12T07:20:25.287" UserId="948" />
  <row Id="2242" PostId="2352" Text="Till they make a new, &quot;more-better!&quot;, and inevitably incompatible mount. " CreationDate="2010-08-12T08:14:30.960" UserId="189" />
  <row Id="2243" PostId="2387" Score="2" Text="Speaking about wind - I've had to hold by tripod steady myself with strong wind, of course the results are not top quality, but at least usable and far better than not holding the tripod. The normal approach is to **hang something heavy below your tripod**, I ended up in that situation just because of poor planning." CreationDate="2010-08-12T08:14:44.517" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2244" PostId="2396" Text="I agree that shrinking is easy from, say, ~4000px to ~1000px, but the bicubic is not really the best one when shrinking 20 000px panorama to 1000px. It is _noticeably_ better if you shrink by 10% or just 1000px at a time and apply very light sharpening once or twice in between. Sure, there are even better methods, but this has worked for me those occasional times when I've needed it." CreationDate="2010-08-12T08:28:26.963" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2245" PostId="2385" Text="I agree that parts of the image look like motion blur, on the other hand I tend to think that the &quot;bubbles&quot; are not really characteristic of motion blur. Maybe you can post some more examples with the clues from which parts of the whole frame they are." CreationDate="2010-08-12T08:38:03.773" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2246" PostId="2387" Text="The argument _against_ wind shake is the fact that lightning is very short." CreationDate="2010-08-12T08:44:13.867" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2247" PostId="2367" Text="One of my friends has a D300 and has the 85mm 1.8 and the 50mm 1.4 so i know exactly what you're talking about.  The 85 can take great portraits for sure, but inside i would definitely have the issues Craig Walker mentioned.  The Price on the prime lenses is great though (compared to the 2.8 zooms)" CreationDate="2010-08-12T11:39:30.863" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2248" PostId="2408" Text="This question seems nonsensical as focused beyond hyperfocal seems self-contradictory. Can you elaborate?&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:04:17.073" UserId="1002" />
  <row Id="2249" PostId="2385" Text="My vote goes for sensor bleed. Lightning is far brighter than the sensor maximum for just about any sensor, aperture and exposure. A neutral density filter might help." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:09:35.877" UserId="1002" />
  <row Id="2250" PostId="2408" Score="2" Text="I think the **real** question is: *where is infinity located, and how can there possibly be anything located beyond it?* ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:11:15.797" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="2251" PostId="2321" Text="Sadly, I don't have any good examples as I've always redone them and never saved the problematic versions. It's just something that has sat in my head for a long time now. From your answer I understand that it's best to do noise reduction as early as possible because other edits (like adding contrast) are likely to make the noise even more distinguishable." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:11:54.280" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2252" PostId="2324" Text="My workflow is similar, I keep all the original RAWs and the versions that are not yet output adjusted." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:15:10.593" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2253" PostId="2408" Text="When I'm focusing manually, I only care about the infinity mark on my focusing scale, but there is around 5-10mm of room (depending on the lens) beyond infinity mark. Why is it there?" CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:21:07.100" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2254" PostId="1414" Score="1" Text="Lens pen are simply amazing. Lenses become super clean, although a tad expensive. I even use it to clean my glasses." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:21:09.393" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="2255" PostId="1410" Score="2" Text="Those are not meant to clean high quality optical equipment. A friend of used one of those and it resulted in : mold. Especially dodgy brands from China. You get what you pay for." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:23:42.803" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="2256" PostId="2321" Text="I think the **propagation of error** is the most important takeaway for me here. One should start from getting rid of errors (like noise) whenever possible and do all the other steps in order of &quot;least error introduced&quot;." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:31:13.567" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2257" PostId="2410" Text="I also thought about AF calibration, but I'm not sure whether the calibration is a constant offset or depending on distance and it's still should be very small amount." CreationDate="2010-08-12T13:33:54.450" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2258" PostId="2385" Text="How could that explain that the clearly not saturated smaller branches are out of focus too?" CreationDate="2010-08-12T14:15:01.447" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2259" PostId="2408" Score="1" Text="@Fredrik Mörk: I don't know. But if there is something there, it sure would be handy to be able to focus on it. ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-12T15:03:34.000" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2260" PostId="2410" Text="It's less about calibration and more about simple error. Say your AF system misses focus 1 out of 100 times and thinks it needs to go beyond infinity. You don't want it to hit a hard mechanical stop that often (or ever, really). So you could either design fancy electronics that need calibration to detect this situation and initiate a smooth stop that ends exactly at the limit of travel (infinity), or you could add a little extra travel to absorb this error - extremely simple and needs no calibration." CreationDate="2010-08-12T15:03:46.557" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2261" PostId="168" Text="ScanCafe dosn't want to accept slides/films if you live outside US at the moment. So I would like to find some good alternative." CreationDate="2010-08-12T15:15:27.960" UserId="81" />
  <row Id="2262" PostId="2410" Text="@Reid - I understood your points and my thought regarding calibration was meant as an addition to your list. When AF focuses forward of the subject and it's calibrated to focus a bit further, it might need to go beyond infinity mark also. I've never had my lenses calibrated really, so I don't know how it exactly works." CreationDate="2010-08-12T15:41:37.707" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2263" PostId="2409" Score="1" Text="+1 for mentioning that focus varies on zoom lenses as the focal length changes." CreationDate="2010-08-12T15:50:11.717" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2264" PostId="2409" Score="2" Text="Good point about the zoom lenses. My 70-200mm really has very different understanding of &quot;infinity&quot; at different focal lengths. When I use autofocus and focus on clouds at 70mm the focusing scale stays somewhere between 10m and infinity mark and at 200mm, it really goes to infinity mark. That means **I actually can't trust the focusing scale for manual focusing at focal lengths below 200mm.**" CreationDate="2010-08-12T15:55:10.887" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2265" PostId="2416" Text="Thanks for the tips. I did some testing, and am pretty sure my focusing scale depends on the focal length, like you mentioned with your 70-200. If I put it right at the &quot;infinity&quot; mark, it never seems to actually be in focus. At 16mm, I have to go a little past, and at 35mm, it gets closer, but still can't seem to be right on the mark. It also seems to depend on how truly far away the subject is. It was probably a combination of things, but most likely just incorrect focus. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-12T16:33:06.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2266" PostId="2385" Text="I think the branches of the tree are OOF because they were moving in the wind. Karel mentioned the fact that the &quot;infinity&quot; mark is not always accurate, and I've done some testing of that. I think the most logical explanation here is simply that I did not have focus correct...and I was focused forward too much, leaving the background out of focus. I've been over this shot again and again, and the only thing that explains the look of the lightning is plain and simple lack of focus. Camera shake would look different. The clip above is from dead-center on an EF 16-35mm USM L II." CreationDate="2010-08-12T16:38:29.200" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2267" PostId="2414" Score="2" Text="The crop factor doesn't actually increase magnification. It's just perceptual based on the changing of the field of view. Use the same lens to a FF camera, and crop the image, and you will have the same result. The advantage of the 7D is it's awesome AF system, not the crop." CreationDate="2010-08-12T17:08:43.650" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2268" PostId="2414" Score="3" Text="You'd need a 46,7 Mpix fullframe camera to be able to get the same crop. So cropped sensor _has_ advantage (given that you're not limited by your lenses)." CreationDate="2010-08-12T17:49:38.947" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2269" PostId="2418" Text="I also have an f1.8 (albeit Canon) and it has been terrific for my uses. " CreationDate="2010-08-12T18:12:21.443" UserId="702" />
  <row Id="2270" PostId="2414" Text="alan's correct. sloppy use of terminology on my part. " CreationDate="2010-08-12T18:16:40.763" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="2271" PostId="1382" Text="Yup it has video, although it is crappy." CreationDate="2010-08-12T20:12:01.457" UserId="698" />
  <row Id="2272" PostId="689" Score="1" Text="It's not really about reducing post-processing effort (in fact, it increases it a bit), but about ensuring that you use the maximum exposure possible without causing clipping (which minimizes noise and maximize available dynamic range)." CreationDate="2010-08-12T20:37:33.250" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="2273" PostId="2425" Score="2" Text="+1 for GIMP and Paint.Net" CreationDate="2010-08-12T20:50:34.233" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2274" PostId="2424" Score="3" Text="What platform? Mac, Windows, Linux?" CreationDate="2010-08-12T20:51:29.037" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2275" PostId="2424" Text="What programs have you used before which you found limited? Knowing that will help us suggest programs at an appropriate level (e.g., if Picasa was too limited, I know not to suggest it)." CreationDate="2010-08-12T20:54:20.980" UserId="649" />
  <row Id="2276" PostId="2418" Text="Great hearing from people with lots of real-world experience.  Thanks for your comment" CreationDate="2010-08-12T21:54:52.510" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2277" PostId="1896" Text="I ordered a BC-9009.  Seems to take a very long time to test batteries from my &quot;bad&quot; pile, though.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-13T00:12:26.310" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="2278" PostId="2414" Text="here's the 100-400 in action, in a fairly dim grey foggy morning... &#xA;&#xA;http://www.flickr.com/photos/chuqui/4822763548&#xA;&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-13T00:12:31.803" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="2279" PostId="2409" Text="@Karel True in a sense, but I think you can trust it as much as you ever did.  I.e., if you were actually scale focusing, there are enough other sources of error that this one is unlikely to have a significant effect." CreationDate="2010-08-13T00:22:21.690" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2281" PostId="2408" Score="1" Text="msw- Hyperfocal distance is the closest point in which everything beyond the subject is within the depth of field.  Infinity distance is farther than the hyperfocal distance.  Are you are asking why bother with anything beyond hyperfocal distance, as that includes infinity?  I assume the answer would be that the photographer wishes to start their DOF beyond the point it would start when focused at the hyperfocal distance." CreationDate="2010-08-13T00:52:36.057" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2282" PostId="2408" Text="Frederik- The human perception of infinity, and where a lens finds infinity are vastly different.  I have lenses that think infinity is 30' out.  ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-13T00:55:18.783" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2283" PostId="2307" Text="Sure, but the problem persists with small objects." CreationDate="2010-08-13T02:42:01.390" UserId="874" />
  <row Id="2284" PostId="2355" Text="I think this is the best explanation to what happens with my gear. Do camera specs provide the value of the fixed depth-of-field? I haven't found on the specs of Pentax K10D. " CreationDate="2010-08-13T02:46:29.350" UserId="874" />
  <row Id="2285" PostId="452" Text="Clears things up. Cheers!" CreationDate="2010-08-13T05:13:09.497" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2286" PostId="2435" Text="I read how he did the lighting. I'm asking how to do the post-processing." CreationDate="2010-08-13T05:16:59.867" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2287" PostId="2358" Score="1" Text="If you're processing photos specifically for the web, you may need to completely remove colour management on the photo. I'm not sure how this works in Lightroom. Safari is the only browser I know of specifically that respects an embedded colour profile." CreationDate="2010-08-13T05:26:23.267" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2288" PostId="1335" Text="Thanks for the added link, I'd upvote this post if I haven't already done that before." CreationDate="2010-08-13T06:07:17.670" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2289" PostId="2234" Text="@RAOF: It may not necessarily require a firmware update. A flexible lens specification format can be created that allows lenses to define their distortions, and a single piece of software can apply the correction processing based on such a specification. That is essentially what Adobe Lightroom 3 does with its new camera lens profiles. If each lens contained its specification, you wouldn't need to update firmware for each lens...attaching a lens is enough, as it would tell the firmware what its correction factors are." CreationDate="2010-08-13T06:28:58.513" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2290" PostId="2433" Text="That is stellar; I hadn't yet seen his update.  I've always liked his plugin, this really kicks it up a notch in a few ways." CreationDate="2010-08-13T06:36:07.097" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2291" PostId="2401" Text="NB: I'm leaving this up as a possible solution that might work for some, but personally I would go with @chuqui's answer now that I'm aware of it." CreationDate="2010-08-13T06:39:20.397" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2292" PostId="1335" Text="@che - my pleasure! Just added another one, too." CreationDate="2010-08-13T06:43:14.587" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2293" PostId="2434" Score="2" Text="Are you sure there is any special post-processing to achieve that? It looks like very basic processing to me...perhaps just a bit of desaturation. I think the lighting setup takes care of the rest." CreationDate="2010-08-13T06:51:57.377" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2294" PostId="2355" Text="Canon does. They specify for their AF sensors whether they are cross-type or not, and at what aperature the cross effectively becomes used. They also state the maximum aperture value that a lens wide open can be used. The SIGMA 50-500 &quot;BIGMA&quot;, for example, has a maximum aperture of F/6.3 at the long end, but it has to lie to Canon camera's that it's effectively F/5.6 so that the camera won't refuse to autofocus as all but the 1D series cameras can autofocus up to F/5.6 with the center focus point." CreationDate="2010-08-13T07:35:04.983" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="2295" PostId="2355" Text="This discussion, though technical, gives a rather good insight in how phase-detection autofocus works: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=829772" CreationDate="2010-08-13T07:44:00.733" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="2296" PostId="2425" Text="+1 Great suggestion, I use these as well. GIMP takes some getting used to though. But is has superb capabilities (similar to Photoshop)." CreationDate="2010-08-13T08:17:14.927" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="2297" PostId="2345" Text="Your first suggestion would work as long as the temperature doesn't change too much between focussing time and shooting time. I like the suggestion about the laser pointer!" CreationDate="2010-08-13T08:45:46.590" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="2298" PostId="1890" Score="3" Text="Be aware of temperature changes, these can affect the focus point." CreationDate="2010-08-13T08:48:09.283" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="2299" PostId="2443" Score="1" Text="I think its just desaturated, as you can still see some pink in the puppies skin around his nose. I generally agree though, just over-sharpened and desaturated, not much in the way of processing." CreationDate="2010-08-13T09:20:18.843" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2300" PostId="2414" Text="@chuqui: Great shot. I used to live in the Five Cities Area of CA. Arroyo Grande to be exact, but I spent a lot of time in Pismo Beach. Kind of miss that area, and the pelicans there. ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-13T09:25:39.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2301" PostId="2360" Text="I googled too, but didn't find anything any good source. Afaik the most used 100x100 GNDs are not glass, but I can be wrong." CreationDate="2010-08-13T09:30:42.860" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2302" PostId="2445" Text="to whom who downgrade my question: what is the reason ? " CreationDate="2010-08-13T11:26:17.103" UserId="1019" />
  <row Id="2303" PostId="2429" Score="2" Text="I've been looking at the 35mm 1.8 and the 35mm 2.0/f.  Any suggestions on choosing one over the other? There's a price difference and the DX obviously only works (properly) on a DX body.  I'm wondering if the full-frame version is worth the extra $100 or so." CreationDate="2010-08-13T11:48:36.490" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2304" PostId="2445" Score="2" Text="@falkon: I can only guess, but perhaps because it might be considered off-topic. Equipment questions being off-topic has been discussed on meta: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/197/equipment-recommendation-questions I think that you should explain what you are going to use it for in order for someone to give a relevant answer." CreationDate="2010-08-13T11:56:24.993" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2305" PostId="2445" Text="@Guffa: thx, I've explained the reason of buying the lens" CreationDate="2010-08-13T12:16:08.853" UserId="1019" />
  <row Id="2306" PostId="2417" Text="That seems like it could be pretty good as a start, it might even be a better result than my steps 6-10..." CreationDate="2010-08-13T12:34:09.737" UserId="978" />
  <row Id="2307" PostId="2445" Text="AFAIK, there is no cheap Canon EF 70-300 f/4-5.6 III USM. Either you mean the **75** -300 or you mean the 70-300 **IS**." CreationDate="2010-08-13T12:42:07.053" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="2308" PostId="2445" Text="I mean without IS, model from y.1999(?)" CreationDate="2010-08-13T13:14:11.497" UserId="1019" />
  <row Id="2309" PostId="2445" Text="cheap I mean for $150" CreationDate="2010-08-13T13:19:35.540" UserId="1019" />
  <row Id="2310" PostId="2449" Text="exactly this model, thx." CreationDate="2010-08-13T14:29:09.117" UserId="1019" />
  <row Id="2311" PostId="2429" Text="@newfie: depends almost entirely on your budget. If you plan on spending some money in the future then spend the $100 now with the prospect of spending $$$ on an FX or film body. OTOH: you can always sell the DX lens later. Also, the DX is smaller/lighter." CreationDate="2010-08-13T14:37:06.807" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2312" PostId="2338" Text="After looking at those for about 5 minutes, I don't know what I am looking at. :/ could you explain a bit?" CreationDate="2010-08-13T14:53:39.307" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2313" PostId="2451" Score="1" Text="A 50mm or 85mm lens would be better for portraits, the perspective that longer focal lengths gives is more flattering.  But, I can understand wanting to not have to stand far away from one's subject.  " CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:09:47.337" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="2314" PostId="2438" Text="Its also got a lot of vignetting." CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:12:45.287" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="2315" PostId="2454" Score="4" Text="+1. Here's Thom Hogan on the f/2, including a comparison with the f/1.8: http://bythom.com/Nikkor-35mm-D-lensreview.htm" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:19:31.190" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2316" PostId="2338" Text="I was also trying to find out what focusing screens are and how they can be helpful in my case. Do they fit into the viewfinder? Do you need live view? Do they just make things easier or improve somehow the limit of the viewfinder (having a fixed DOF)?" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:24:17.183" UserId="874" />
  <row Id="2317" PostId="2451" Text="Very true... shooting a head a shoulders shot with a 35mm will make the person look like they have a large nose... perspective distortion could be pretty funky the closer you get to the subject. This would be a great lens for indoor natural light shots as well as street shooting... just don't get too close!" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:26:41.333" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="2318" PostId="2407" Text="Please clarify: are you saying telescope lenses not refractive lenses? Or are you just saying that in a telescope, objects are far away such that the light rays are essentially parallel, and thus can be extrapolated to camera astrophotography?  &#xA;&#xA;Very interesting on the sky fog limit.  Would the amount of this effect depend on the lens design, in much the same way that crappier lenses have haze and loss of contrast with normal shots wide open?" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:26:49.913" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2319" PostId="2427" Text="So because there are point sources and the light is not being spread over more pixels (within resolution limits), overall aperture matters?&#xA;&#xA;Makes sense, but this article tries to prove otherwise:  http://www.stark-labs.com/blog/files/FratioAperture.php&#xA;&#xA;Perhaps the differences are due to other lens qualities?" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:43:52.697" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2320" PostId="2447" Text="Looks promising - though the weird bug where it crashes if it's opened in landscape mode is deeply annoying. I hope they fix it soon..." CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:50:05.223" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="2321" PostId="2315" Score="1" Text="+1 for mentioning the dioptric adjustment. I'd been wondering why I was having trouble focusing manually, and now I feel like an idiot... :-)" CreationDate="2010-08-13T15:52:13.507" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="2322" PostId="2443" Text="If you look at his other work for example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/joshuacraig/2362070167/in/photostream/, this is not just all lighting based. " CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:10:38.440" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2323" PostId="2454" Text="I have no immediate plans to go full-frame, but i'd like to one day.  depends on if I start making money from photography or if it remains a 'non-paying' hobby." CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:15:17.343" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2324" PostId="2453" Text="I have the D90 so i'm in the middle of both camps.  Either will work.  Nice bokeh is a bonus, but clarity and sharpness are probably my biggest requirements." CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:16:17.593" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2325" PostId="2438" Text="@Alex: The vignetting is from the background lights." CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:20:13.207" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2326" PostId="2454" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind that even $400 at some unspecified future date isn't a whole lot of money when compared with the necessary investment for FF. You may also be interested in this question w.r.t. DX vs. FX: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses" CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:33:26.797" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2327" PostId="2345" Score="1" Text="It'll work just as good as if the lens manufacturer put the mark there.  :)" CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:55:06.787" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2328" PostId="2438" Score="1" Text="I think the primary components of the look are lighting and local contrast enhancement. " CreationDate="2010-08-13T16:57:53.507" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2329" PostId="2438" Text="@Alan Not in your new example, is isn't!  The dog was a bit ambiguous in this regard, but given the new one, I'd have to lean towards enhancement." CreationDate="2010-08-13T17:01:23.110" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2330" PostId="2443" Text="@Alan: Same there, very high contrast and slightly oversharpened. Very easy to repeat if you want it." CreationDate="2010-08-13T17:06:32.167" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2331" PostId="2429" Text="@newfie_coder I've only used the DX lens (my camera is a D50) so I can't say anything towards the full frame version. However, the DX lens is quite compact, though not as much as the 50mm. If you anticipate going full frame, that lens may be the better purchase." CreationDate="2010-08-13T17:24:01.670" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="2332" PostId="1054" Score="5" Text="I studied film for 15+ years before trying digital.  I can't think of anything important that can be learned using film that couldn't be learned much faster with the instant feedback of digital.  Using film will teach you to use film.  For instance all my time in the darkroom taught me how to temp chems quickly and accurately.  That's good to have down for film.  Meaningless for digital.  For those who claim film makes you behave is a particular way I would suggest that the real problem is in the mind of the photographer, and would be better addressed directly.    " CreationDate="2010-08-13T17:51:03.840" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2333" PostId="1171" Score="2" Text="Modern view cameras accept film or digital backs." CreationDate="2010-08-13T17:56:05.497" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2334" PostId="977" Score="6" Text="I spent 15+ years in the traditional BW darkroom mostly working with medium format and 4x5, before learning digital.  I have yet to run into anything I can't duplicate in Photoshop.  It's just a matter of skill." CreationDate="2010-08-13T17:58:15.040" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2335" PostId="512" Text="Dust is the bane of every photographer whatever the technology.  Strips of plastic dragged through cameras create dust attracting static electricity.  Advancing to the next frame is just as likely to make the dust problem worse as better.  The difference is that with film dust spotting is required for every print, while with digital it can be done once to the file.  " CreationDate="2010-08-13T18:01:34.583" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2336" PostId="2438" Text="@Henry likewise. Selective blur/sharpening just for the same reasons one always would (draw attention)." CreationDate="2010-08-13T18:04:46.557" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2338" PostId="977" Text="OK, the second part of my answer is subjective, so I'm going to remove it, but I have yet to see a digital print that looks like it was done with an enlarger." CreationDate="2010-08-13T18:11:55.153" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2339" PostId="2423" Text="Press ounce for open, press again for close worked.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-13T18:39:06.783" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="2340" PostId="1171" Text="A reference to some would be great." CreationDate="2010-08-13T18:49:29.010" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2341" PostId="1054" Text="I don't say film makes me behave or teaches me any special skills that make me a better photographer. But I still _love_ the look of my slides and have found no way to replicate this with digital. Skill thing, one might argue. Most probably. I've found a compromise - I shoot everything I need to quickly publish on digital and I shoot all the things that will break my heart on film." CreationDate="2010-08-13T18:58:27.727" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2342" PostId="1890" Text="They do? I wouldn't have expected this... although it does make sense. Interesting." CreationDate="2010-08-13T19:06:55.103" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="2343" PostId="2424" Text="&quot;Editing&quot; can be understood differently. If you just want to browse and choose (editing in a more traditional sense) I'd recommend Picasa. If you mean editing as post-processing, look at the first answer below. If you're looking for both, Picasa can be combined easily with, say, Gimp." CreationDate="2010-08-13T19:30:50.240" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2344" PostId="2286" Text="After disabling the flash in the menu, I flipped the flash up and it used light to auto-focus, but didn't pop when I took the picture.  It works great, and that's all I really needed, not manual focus.  I also experimented with zooming in Live View, which was a little slower, but also works.  Thanks." CreationDate="2010-08-13T20:13:41.463" UserId="671" />
  <row Id="2345" PostId="2427" Text="@Eruditass: he seems to be talking about detail, not light gathering. While there is some relationship between aperture and detail, it's a whole different question than the one being discussed here." CreationDate="2010-08-13T20:49:17.197" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="2347" PostId="233" Score="1" Text="I agree; I just started experimenting with Hugin and panoramas in general, and this is a great tool." CreationDate="2010-08-13T21:45:55.320" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="2348" PostId="2427" Text="@Jerry: Well, it's talking about detail above the noise floor, not detail in the sense that us camera folks usually talk about, but essentially the goal of a faster lens: SNR.  It's certainly what I'm asking.  They discuss photons per target vs photons per CCD well and total real aperture vs f-number in a pretty interesting way." CreationDate="2010-08-13T21:46:32.137" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2349" PostId="2338" Text="A focusing screen is used through the optical viewfinder. They are designed to take advantage of the refractive properties of glass to make it easier to see where you've focused. Usually, the center of the focusing screen is a small prismatic grid or a split screen that makes it very clear when something is out of focus. If you click the link I posted, and scroll down, there are lots of visual examples." CreationDate="2010-08-13T21:55:12.740" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2350" PostId="2329" Score="3" Text="More people should be posting visual examples like these. +1" CreationDate="2010-08-13T21:58:12.240" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="2351" PostId="620" Text="Along the email lines, you can just have some cards ready and tell them to email you if they would like a copy of the shot." CreationDate="2010-08-13T22:55:00.687" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2352" PostId="2414" Text="yeah, that's a nice area. I've been spending a chunk of time around Morro Bay and really love the area. I wrote up the Pismo part of my trip, which is here: http://www.chuqui.com/2010/08/road-trip-california-central-coast/ (with lots more photos!)" CreationDate="2010-08-13T23:50:55.743" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="2353" PostId="2419" Score="2" Text="When you're deciding on a macro lens, whether you go 50mm or 100mm or 180mm depends a lot on waht you're planning to shoot, so consider your subjects. I chose the 180 because I expect to work primarily in the field and with subjects that aren't necessarily cooperative (dragonflies, etc) or where being extremely close to a subject is inconvenient (muddy fields); it gives me more flexibility. But if you're shooting primarily flowers or doing studio work, there are advantages to the 50 or 100mm macros. there are tradeoffs in all of these decisions, so knowing what you expect to do is important. " CreationDate="2010-08-13T23:53:37.093" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="2354" PostId="2462" Score="1" Text="It's even worse when you buy a US market gear, and still can't read the manuals, because the engrish is so bad." CreationDate="2010-08-14T02:31:46.980" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2355" PostId="2463" Text="**VERY** good answer. +1 and this should be the accepted answer!" CreationDate="2010-08-14T02:41:22.840" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="2356" PostId="2463" Score="1" Text="Thanks!! Great info :D! But one last question: how would smoke affect the camera?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T02:57:46.700" UserId="689" />
  <row Id="2357" PostId="2463" Score="1" Text="Over time the pollutants that are in cigarette smoke can get inside your lens. Not enough to compromise optical quality, but that grime can affect mechanical function." CreationDate="2010-08-14T03:27:25.867" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2358" PostId="2234" Text="Right - those correction factors (+ the specific algorithm used) are what I'm looking for!" CreationDate="2010-08-14T07:26:54.140" UserId="145" />
  <row Id="2359" PostId="2407" Text="@Eruditass: It's the light rays being parallel that changes how the optics works. When the light is not parallel, light from a source can pass through every point in the lens and still focus to the same point, but with parallel light there is only one possible path through the lens that ends up at any specific point. There are several factors that affect the sky fog limit, one of them is of course lens flare caused by nearby lights, the same hazing effect as in a regular camera lens, so it partly depends on the lens design." CreationDate="2010-08-14T13:26:21.620" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2360" PostId="2452" Text="For reference, I've a 70-300 IS, and am not impressed with its performance..." CreationDate="2010-08-14T15:25:01.173" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2361" PostId="2462" Text="Note that Nikon won't work on gray market gear *at all*, whether for warranty work or not." CreationDate="2010-08-14T15:39:08.040" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2362" PostId="2467" Score="2" Text="I think you need to give us more to go on. What sort of photography do you do? Why are you unsatisfied with your existing gear? What lenses have you considered? Open-ended equipment recommendation requests like this are generally considered off-topic." CreationDate="2010-08-14T15:43:11.987" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2363" PostId="2467" Text="Are you asking for a 12-18mm FF FOV equivalent?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T16:37:03.540" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2364" PostId="2471" Text="List of wide-angle DX zooms for Nikon can be found here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2231/sigma-10-20mm-f5-6-alternatives/2233#2233" CreationDate="2010-08-14T16:54:38.930" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2365" PostId="2467" Text="@Alan - 12mm is extremely wide even on APS-C, so probably not." CreationDate="2010-08-14T16:59:49.657" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2366" PostId="2467" Score="5" Text="@Reid - I don't find this particularly open-ended.  Choices are fairly narrow in this range, and his constraints (fast, cheap) are stated pretty clearly. In fact, I think this is a better &quot;what should I do&quot; than the typical &quot;I've tried X, Y, Z, prefer Q photography, what is the best?&quot; as all those letters tends to be quite extraneous." CreationDate="2010-08-14T17:38:53.697" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2368" PostId="2407" Text="@Guffa, that's how I understood from other articles.  I just wanted to clarify your terminology: &quot;In a camera&quot; vs &quot;In a telescope&quot; added confusion as it misrepresents the situation.  A camera can point at a light source where the wave front of the lights is effectively parallel, and telescopes can point at closer objects.  Too bad the past couple nights were horribly cloudy, so stopping down did not help." CreationDate="2010-08-14T17:57:10.853" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2369" PostId="2407" Text="@Eruditass: Yes, you are right. What I mean is really how the equipment is used, not what it was intended for." CreationDate="2010-08-14T18:34:12.527" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2371" PostId="2474" Score="1" Text="Are you on a Mac or PC?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T18:53:36.027" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2372" PostId="2409" Text="@matt - no, I don't scale focus the 70-200, maybe just the 17-40 sometimes. But if I'd do that, infinity would probably be the only mark I'd really need to be correct." CreationDate="2010-08-14T18:58:04.897" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2373" PostId="2463" Score="2" Text="Not to mention the residual smell... you'll smell it every time you look through the viewfinder :-(" CreationDate="2010-08-14T19:15:11.180" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="2374" PostId="2468" Text="Good recommendation.  B&amp;H and Adorama also sell used gear." CreationDate="2010-08-14T19:15:53.940" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2375" PostId="2467" Text="I have to agree with Matt, I think this is a perfectly acceptable question with a fairly narrow range of possible answers. " CreationDate="2010-08-14T19:37:55.617" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2376" PostId="2471" Score="2" Text="Suggest clarifying &quot;no wide-angle primes for APS-C cameras&quot; to &quot;no dedicated DX primes&quot;. There are wide-angle primes for APS-C cameras; they just happen to have full-frame coverage, but will happily work on the smaller formats as well." CreationDate="2010-08-14T19:54:56.777" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2377" PostId="2467" Score="1" Text="OK, that's fair. I guess I'm underwhelmed by the question because the right answer seems like it would be a list of F-mount lenses between 12 and 18mm, which isn't a very interesting answer (and doesn't have good archival value, as that stuff changes)." CreationDate="2010-08-14T19:55:28.993" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2378" PostId="2484" Text="I assume your other lenses are fine? I know nothing about this particular situation, but I would expect that any misalignment with the lens that was visible to the eye would result in in really atrocious mechanical problems that would be pretty obvious. Is it easy to post a picture?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T19:59:41.243" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2379" PostId="2467" Text="@Reid yeah, I see both points. But I think it's just part and parcel of equipment-recommendation questions. Seasoning them with personal details doesn't necessarily change that." CreationDate="2010-08-14T20:02:42.297" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2380" PostId="2472" Text="Can it open the shutter on the first button press and close it on the second, or do I  have to have my finger on the button all the time ?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T20:58:05.737" UserId="120" />
  <row Id="2381" PostId="2483" Text="Downvoting without explanation?? jeez, that's cool..." CreationDate="2010-08-14T21:07:56.447" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="2382" PostId="2452" Text="@Rowland - it depends what you expected from that lens, neither of the lenses that I mentioned are of L lens quality. I am simply stating that 55-250 is in my opinion better choice than 75-300 for crop sensor body within similar price range" CreationDate="2010-08-14T21:11:13.943" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="2383" PostId="2483" Text="Don't know why you got downvoted, GIMP is a perfectly fine answer to the question &quot;what software would I use&quot;.  It's free, runs on lots of platforms, and is perfectly capable of the task at hand." CreationDate="2010-08-14T21:13:20.637" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2384" PostId="2467" Text="@Alan, I am asking for a 12-18mm real focal length, aproximately 20 to 28mm FF equivalent." CreationDate="2010-08-14T21:17:50.640" UserId="120" />
  <row Id="2385" PostId="2452" Text="@kristof Even the old 80-200 that I had as a kit lens gives better results than the 70-300 gives me..." CreationDate="2010-08-14T21:22:16.663" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2386" PostId="2487" Score="1" Text="That is correct, but I don't think that's the problem. I believe that he is already using the tripod collar, as he says *&quot;when I bolt the Gitzo head plate to the lens rather than the camera body&quot;*." CreationDate="2010-08-14T22:12:40.277" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2387" PostId="2486" Text="I've done this, and I can correct the tilt. However, the ring around the lens seems to have a particular point where it &quot;locks into place&quot;. I can feel it &quot;snap&quot; as I rotate the lens within the mounting ring. I guess it doesn't matter if its in that snapped position, but previously, I was assuming that was the &quot;correct&quot; position. Is there such a thing, a correct position for the lens in its tripod mounting ring?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T22:25:42.917" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2388" PostId="2484" Score="1" Text="After Guffa's comment, I popped off the tripod collar and looked at the lens. I guess I had something, grit or who knows, between the collar and the lens body that made it feel like it was &quot;snapping into place&quot; at a certain angle. After cleaning off the lens and the collar, this &quot;snap&quot; is much less pronounced, and it occurs at the correct angle now. Sounds like it was just a fluke. " CreationDate="2010-08-14T22:49:14.013" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2389" PostId="2486" Text="Thanks Guffa. Popped the ring off the lens, cleaned both, and it seems to be fine now. The &quot;snap&quot; occurs at exactly the right angle to keep the camera body level now." CreationDate="2010-08-14T22:49:56.790" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2390" PostId="2483" Text="GIMP also has a feature similar to Photoshop CS5's &quot;content aware fill&quot;, that will fill in larger areas with generated content based on the parts of the image that surround the removed area. Using such a tool, you could easily and quickly remove a sign and have the &quot;hold&quot; filled in with great, realistic content without much effort." CreationDate="2010-08-14T23:11:43.217" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2391" PostId="2484" Score="1" Text="Well glad that you didn't have to send anything back. I wonder how many &quot;backfocus&quot; lenses end up occuring due to human error?" CreationDate="2010-08-14T23:36:56.233" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2392" PostId="2486" Text="+1: Guffa with the save." CreationDate="2010-08-14T23:37:14.327" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2393" PostId="2484" Text="Ohhh, it sounds like the funny angle is in roll. I was thinking it was pitch which seemed rather serious. Never mind... (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aircraft_principal_axes)" CreationDate="2010-08-14T23:58:08.890" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2394" PostId="2488" Text="Nice bonus answer about lighting a group of people using the feather." CreationDate="2010-08-15T01:28:55.100" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2395" PostId="2467" Text="You may want to consider renting a couple different lenses to find the one you like best.. Then go buy that one." CreationDate="2010-08-15T03:06:37.737" UserId="355" />
  <row Id="2396" PostId="2491" Text="Very good advice to get a feel for what a given club will bring when shooting, and how they go about it.  When we have our irregular street-photography get-togethers, we might be talking about a recent publication as often as going shooting, and if someone showed up with a tripod or 200mm zoom... that'd be a little odd, for sure." CreationDate="2010-08-15T06:23:20.763" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2397" PostId="1017" Text="I found [more information](http://www.google.com/support/forum/p/Picasa/thread?tid=32286cf8b916f443&amp;hl=en &quot;picasa&quot;) about Picasa's RAW processing, particularly that it uses [Dcraw](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dcraw) on the back-end.&#xA;&#xA;One of the consequences of this processing is that Picasa always normalizes the exposure of your RAW photos so that 1% of the pixels are white." CreationDate="2010-08-15T06:39:21.857" UserId="123" />
  <row Id="2398" PostId="1461" Text="Bigger and heavier is a good thing." CreationDate="2010-08-15T06:47:18.263" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="2399" PostId="2495" Text="Thanks. I will have some time before I can afford a more specific lens too which, I suppose, is kinda handy in that respect. The band part doesn't lend to having much extra cash :) I should add, I've actually only just ordered the camera, but have been doing some photography with a friend's 450D with two diff lenses and made the decision to get my own." CreationDate="2010-08-15T08:23:19.523" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2400" PostId="2483" Text="Photoshop CS5 Content Aware Fill is quite amazing in a lot of situations." CreationDate="2010-08-15T08:28:48.717" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2401" PostId="2471" Text="@matt: True, fixed." CreationDate="2010-08-15T09:33:11.550" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2402" PostId="2499" Text="but what about photoshop and lightroom ? &#xA;why canon raw files in-camera settings is retrievable while nikon are not ? " CreationDate="2010-08-15T11:03:17.000" />
  <row Id="2403" PostId="2499" Text="I'd like to know how this works for you in case of Canon camera. I get radically different results from Canon's own software and other converters." CreationDate="2010-08-15T11:22:38.430" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2404" PostId="2497" Text="What version of Photoshop are you using?" CreationDate="2010-08-15T13:06:32.627" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2405" PostId="1461" Score="2" Text="@Bobby, not necessarily. Depends on the use." CreationDate="2010-08-15T14:59:52.497" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2406" PostId="2507" Text="+1. You might want to add that maximum load ratings typically consider &quot;is it going to collapse&quot; rather than &quot;is it stable&quot;, so people often choose a tripod with a max load significantly higher than they will actually need for greater stability." CreationDate="2010-08-15T15:02:42.193" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2407" PostId="2507" Score="1" Text="+1. Maybe a couple of words about different heads?" CreationDate="2010-08-15T15:12:03.390" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2408" PostId="2507" Text="+1. Might also want to note that maximum height excludes any additional inches that may be added by a tripod head, which itself may add 3-4 inches. " CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:30:16.243" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2409" PostId="2480" Text="Thanks. I looked on craigslist a few days and no one was selling that model. The next day there are 7 people selling so I'll look into that. And thanks for the photo store names. I'm in Canada so I'll have to look at the transportation too, so I'll look at local stores as well. &#xA;&#xA;I don't know why I never though of used camera stores :P" CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:31:46.883" UserId="689" />
  <row Id="2410" PostId="2465" Text="Thanks! I'll look at the shutter life of my model. I've found a utility that checks current shutter count and I might use that if I decide to buy off craigslist. " CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:35:32.463" UserId="689" />
  <row Id="2411" PostId="2510" Text="Couple other things to note about heads: Some &quot;quick releases&quot; truly &amp; fully release without a safety catch, meaning if you don't have a solid grip on your camera and lens, it drops to the ground (a Manfrotto did this, and I almost lost an $1800 lens.) Might want to also mention the different kinds of heads. Ball heads are nice general purpose, a gimbal head provides much smoother and more precise angling and panning, panning heads are great for panoramic shots, etc. Some heads have bubble levels in multiple planes, some don't, etc." CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:38:59.543" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2412" PostId="2499" Text="Camera profiles are not something that come from the camera. They are just profiles created by Adobe that are matched to the profiles of the canon firmware. Same goes for all other camera profiles...they are only approximations. There is no guarantee that the settings applied by a camera profile in ACR/Lightroom will exactly match that from a Nikon or Canon camera body." CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:50:47.767" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2413" PostId="2510" Text="The newer Manfrottos all seem to have a lock for the quick release lever (mine does) to avoid accidental release of the lever. Of course, you do have to remember to flip the lock, I sometimes forget." CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:56:05.807" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2414" PostId="2414" Text="Morro Bay is a great area too. I had family who used to live there, and used to visit it a lot. Really great coastal area there overall. Need to get back there and shoot some stuff some day." CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:56:43.437" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2415" PostId="2505" Text="There are some good general answers here, but you might want to add what your intended usage is (e.g. landscape, portrait, wildlife, etc...). That would help focus the suggestions a bit more and allow for suggestions about the head as well." CreationDate="2010-08-15T16:58:12.480" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2416" PostId="2499" Text="@jrista - that was meant to the other answer?" CreationDate="2010-08-15T17:32:35.950" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2417" PostId="2505" Text="@John Cavan  Thanks John, I've edited my question as you suggested" CreationDate="2010-08-15T17:37:13.040" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="2418" PostId="2501" Text="@John, you've basically just restated the problem. :-)  There's *tons* of flashes around on the used market, many of which use auto, but I have no idea how to sort the wheat from the chaff without compiling an encyclopedia." CreationDate="2010-08-15T17:56:37.530" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2419" PostId="2507" Text="+1: Ditto what @Karel said." CreationDate="2010-08-15T17:58:12.613" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2420" PostId="2509" Score="1" Text="This might be better as a comment on Rowland's answer." CreationDate="2010-08-15T17:58:41.287" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2421" PostId="2512" Score="1" Text="@Craig Thanks; I appreciate the personal recommendation, but that one's about the same size as the Vivitar/Canon that I have." CreationDate="2010-08-15T18:16:10.050" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2423" PostId="2458" Text="I know you discounted the Sunpak 383, but it seems to be one of the smaller ones..." CreationDate="2010-08-15T18:32:21.967" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2424" PostId="2501" Text="@Matt - I added the 383, which I know you discounted, but also added the Metz. " CreationDate="2010-08-15T18:36:21.023" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2426" PostId="2508" Text="Right, there's definitely a warm-up period.  But suppose we have a mere 15 minutes or so, not enough time to 'flush the buffer', as it were?  Are there some quick directorial tricks?" CreationDate="2010-08-15T20:19:55.920" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2428" PostId="120" Score="1" Text="I used LR for about half an hour yesterday and was sold." CreationDate="2010-08-15T21:31:51.507" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2429" PostId="2510" Text="@John: depends on the plating system. RC2's have a manual lever, but the RC4, the extra lock is automatic. " CreationDate="2010-08-15T21:42:32.153" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2430" PostId="452" Text="This post is very helpful, but could you be a bit more explicit? I am very much a beginner, so more detail would be very appreciated. Examples are always appreciated also. In particular, the section on key I find terse. Also, is it asking too much to request you explain why some of the things you say are true? Much of you said I can see to be true by looking at examples of my own photos in LR and their respective hists, but I would like to understand technically why these are true. Thanks already for your answer, and tolerating my difficulty. :D +1 :)" CreationDate="2010-08-15T21:51:26.050" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2431" PostId="2510" Text="@Alan, thanks, I didn't know that. I've had no problem with mine, I've been known to cart it around on my shoulder, but it's the manual lock. Perhaps I'd need to be cautious with the RC4 plates?" CreationDate="2010-08-15T22:27:18.853" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2433" PostId="2508" Text="Flush the buffer... great line. The big trick is just to be confident and take charge. Especially with corporate execs who are used to &quot;Alpha Male&quot; personalities. Worst thing you can do is freeze... even if you have no ideas, just keep it moving. With street photography it is a little different... you need to &quot;get in and get out&quot;. But again, confidence, without coming off as pushy is probably the best approach. On location you just change spots, that can work wonders, chit chat as you walk to the new spot. Studio... maybe a wardrobe change could work, especially if you shoot senior portraits. " CreationDate="2010-08-15T23:30:00.727" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="2434" PostId="2437" Text="I had a look at the open Adobe DNG format, and that contains a bunch of tags for these kinds of off-camera correction.  Sadly, running a ORF through Adobe's DNG converter doesn't populate these fields, or I'd be done!&#xA;&#xA;As for Adobe's Lens Profile Creator, that might be interesting as a more friendly (and widely used) calibrator + online repository of lens profiles, but the lensfun library already has a database of lens profiles generated using Hugin.  My goal is to make the profile creation unnecessary for µ4/3s lenses, since they've got it built in (somewhere!)." CreationDate="2010-08-15T23:31:00.083" UserId="145" />
  <row Id="2435" PostId="2517" Text="I have the kit lens 18-55 mm and a prime 50mm. Which polarizing filter will fit both these lenses?" CreationDate="2010-08-15T23:50:00.543" UserId="147" />
  <row Id="2439" PostId="2517" Score="1" Text="@CodeToGlory: I'm not sure which of the 18-55mm and 50mm lenses you have. The 18-55mm lenses seem to have a filter size of 58mm and the 50mm lenses seem to have a filter size of either 52mm or 58mm. If both are the same (58mm) then you can use the same filter for both lenses, otherwise you need two filters." CreationDate="2010-08-16T01:09:53.047" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2441" PostId="2517" Score="2" Text="If you've got the 50mm f/1.8 II (which has the 52mm diameter) you could get a cheap 52 to 58mm filter adaptor to avoid having to buy two CP filters. You can get really cheap adaptors off eBay for a few dollars. Probably only $10-20 in a retail shop?" CreationDate="2010-08-16T01:40:24.533" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2442" PostId="860" Score="3" Text="Oh god, I can't stand whole image watermarks. Makes the photo much less appealing than it could otherwise be to a prospective customer/client." CreationDate="2010-08-16T02:44:34.987" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2443" PostId="1949" Score="2" Text="I guess the only caveat is that they can simply copy the pixel data and none of that meta information comes with it." CreationDate="2010-08-16T02:45:50.447" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2444" PostId="863" Score="1" Text="I agree about marketing. If you like a fantastic photo or set of photos, you'll generally be interested in more of what the photographer has to offer." CreationDate="2010-08-16T02:47:08.273" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2445" PostId="2036" Text="And you'll remember what made them special and thus try your own hand at the techniques." CreationDate="2010-08-16T02:50:05.380" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2446" PostId="2029" Text="Maybe one? Learn to let go of the cruft? :P" CreationDate="2010-08-16T02:51:22.570" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2447" PostId="2053" Text="Take a million, because the continuous mode shutter sound is bliss to the ears :)" CreationDate="2010-08-16T02:53:22.923" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2448" PostId="2519" Score="2" Text="+1: also remote switches typically have a &quot;hold&quot; button for bulb exposures." CreationDate="2010-08-16T03:12:00.883" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2449" PostId="2411" Text="It sounds like it may just work. Though, sometimes even logical theories can turn out to be disasters :P" CreationDate="2010-08-16T03:20:19.453" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2450" PostId="2508" Text="Part of that confidence is having known poses to fall back on.  So, what are your poses?  What do you do to get your subjects to believe that you're a professional and to focus on the task at hand?" CreationDate="2010-08-16T05:12:11.957" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2451" PostId="2525" Text="What photo editor are you using? Also check this out: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html" CreationDate="2010-08-16T05:17:37.080" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2452" PostId="2521" Text="Actually the lens might not be marked with the filter diameter, but you can find it on the inside of the lens cap." CreationDate="2010-08-16T05:31:41.347" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2453" PostId="2499" Text="@Karel: No, it was meant for this answer and your comment. You mentioned getting different results in different software. Its just because no software can exactly replicate what the firmware does, as its all dependent upon what bit depth the algorithm works in, and the specifics and precision of the tone curves applied. " CreationDate="2010-08-16T05:40:24.853" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2454" PostId="2029" Text="It's strange how people tend to apply statistics to photography. I make 10 shots, keep one. Now if I make 100 - I got 10 keepers. Make 1000 and have 100 keepers! No, it doesn't work that way, cause attention is a limited resource. Rather think how many good compositions you can create in an hour. And then in the next hour. And the hour after that. 6-3-1-0-0-0? " CreationDate="2010-08-16T05:59:13.460" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2455" PostId="2439" Score="2" Text="I'll bite... it seems strange to be so concerned about a $30 price difference when you've got a $7k-USD-when-new camera body..." CreationDate="2010-08-16T06:40:01.630" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2456" PostId="1453" Text="I don't believe the Tamron is sharper than the 50mm. Perhaps if you compare it to the 50mm wide open, but stopped down to f/2.8 (i.e. the Tamron's maximum) the 50mm is sharper." CreationDate="2010-08-16T06:51:51.357" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2457" PostId="1069" Text="would a zoom lens be appropriate or are you only interested in a prime? and would you have a bigger budget if the lens was going to be useful for the toddler years as well? (i'm thinking a more expensive standard zoom f/2.8 may get more use in the long-run)" CreationDate="2010-08-16T06:56:26.917" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2459" PostId="2497" Text="I am using CS4 , and I have tried previous versions of course ." CreationDate="2010-08-16T07:47:42.020" />
  <row Id="2460" PostId="2500" Text="do you mean camera calibration tab, then camera profiles ?&#xA;I have tried it, but found only pre settings like portrait and landscape, but did not find profiles for cameras . is it possible to add or configure profile for my camera to be added to this list ?" CreationDate="2010-08-16T08:16:22.497" />
  <row Id="2461" PostId="2518" Text="You may want to check other answers in http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1606/what-is-a-remote-shutter-release" CreationDate="2010-08-16T10:25:41.960" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="2462" PostId="2500" Text="@ess Check for updates for Photoshop. However, if you saw portrait or landscape, they're specific to your camera model." CreationDate="2010-08-16T10:30:46.460" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2463" PostId="1579" Text="@ChrisF, I wanted pro/con of the systems, so one can make an educated dicision. I didn't ask for &quot;the best&quot; system, since such does not exist." CreationDate="2010-08-16T13:31:58.343" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="2464" PostId="2472" Text="@jfoucher The shutter will stay open until you press the button a second time." CreationDate="2010-08-16T14:17:09.140" UserId="1072" />
  <row Id="2466" PostId="2530" Text="w00t, the pink dog again! :)" CreationDate="2010-08-16T15:08:12.107" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2467" PostId="2532" Text="I've wanted to do this.. might give one of the tutorials a try" CreationDate="2010-08-16T15:09:21.200" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2469" PostId="2519" Text="I have a wired one for the Bulb exposures and I love it!" CreationDate="2010-08-16T15:59:27.420" UserId="740" />
  <row Id="2470" PostId="2523" Text="+1 for &quot;roll your own&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-16T17:26:12.713" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2471" PostId="2543" Text="I specified shoot-through for this question.  I would expect shoot-through has less light loss vs. reflected, ignoring the added distance for the reflected setup.  Would you think that would bring in the higher end of your answer (&quot;several stops&quot;)?  E.g., 1/2 stop (or less) through to 2 stops, for example?" CreationDate="2010-08-16T17:29:13.380" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2472" PostId="2543" Score="1" Text="I know you specified shoot through, but I figured I would answer more generically to umbrellas since many are convertable. Anyways, for one of the Lastolite umbrellas, the loss on shoot through is 0.6f and for bounce is 0.2f. So, the material being used has a major impact in the outcome." CreationDate="2010-08-16T17:33:27.690" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2473" PostId="2543" Text="Oh, to give you a further idea on the variety here... Interfit shoot through umbrellas are 0.5 stops and bounce are 1.5 stops! More loss and an opposite swing to Lastolight." CreationDate="2010-08-16T17:35:18.187" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2474" PostId="2545" Text="Ah, thanks for the correction on terminology.  I heard a pro photographer use this &quot;compression&quot; term in a video, and probably misunderstood the effect.  Yes, I meant background blurring." CreationDate="2010-08-16T17:56:53.057" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2475" PostId="2523" Text="What can I say, I'm a smoker... ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-16T17:57:11.997" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2476" PostId="2501" Text="@John - the Metz 20 looks promising. It and the 36 are both available locally, too, which makes them easy to try/handle. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:02:30.830" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2477" PostId="2536" Score="1" Text="See also &quot;DX or FX Lenses&quot;: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses" CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:27:36.473" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2478" PostId="2437" Text="The lens profile format for ACR/Lightroom might be easier to crack than the .ORF raw file format. You might try creating some profiles for your lens, and see if you can extract that information instead." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:29:38.967" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2479" PostId="2521" Text="Thanks; edited." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:30:35.783" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2480" PostId="508" Score="1" Text="I've converted the whole thread to CW now. Sorry about that, I don't think I had access to the mod tools at the time I changed the original post, and did not realize it would only affect that one post." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:31:06.997" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2481" PostId="2541" Text="I wonder if a good summary of this would be: if cost and size/weight are no object, then the bigger the sensor, the better. But in the real world, those things are very important, so the smaller sensors have much value in many situations." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:34:42.840" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2482" PostId="2517" Score="2" Text="Just a quick note. If you are using cheaper lenses, like the kit 18-55mm, or a cheaper 50mm, buying a high-quality, multi-coated CPL will not provide much added benefit. Your lenses already likely have flaring/ghosting problems, so a high quality, expensive CPL won't really help much. If your 50mm lens is a high quality L-series lens, then a high quality, multicoated CPL will be beneficial. Quality is ultimately dictated by the lowest common denominator, and the 18-55mm kit lens is about as low as that denominator gets." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:36:38.407" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2483" PostId="2541" Score="1" Text="I think you're tying sensor size to field of view a little too closely; it's only as direct as you say when you're dealing with identical mounts and lenses of sufficient coverage; and those assumptions break down when you talk about medium format. E.g., there's a 15mm rectilinear lens (or wider) available for every currently-made 135-size format.  I don't know of any equivalent-FOV lens on any medium-format system.  The widest I know of all tend to be around the equivalent of 20mm on 135." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:41:56.040" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2484" PostId="2541" Score="1" Text="Also &quot;Most photographic, camera, and lens theory is based on mathematics derived from a 35mm FOV&quot; just isn't the case.  135 is definitely the most familiar format, and that's important, but I think this is pushing that aspect a little too far." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:44:14.663" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2486" PostId="2501" Text="@Matt, no problem. I can say that the Metz gear seems to be pretty solid, I have their ring flash and I really like it. Anyways, good luck with it." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:47:12.643" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2488" PostId="2544" Text="I have heard that macro+focus stacking is best to get those perfect focus detailed shots." CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:57:17.600" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2489" PostId="2549" Text="Nice photos, were the second set natural lighting?!" CreationDate="2010-08-16T18:59:53.040" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2490" PostId="2546" Score="2" Text="Glue for milk in cereal shots?  That makes another reason they label it &quot;Serving Suggestion&quot;." CreationDate="2010-08-16T19:04:40.847" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2491" PostId="2549" Text="The 2nd set was lit with the ambient light from the restaurant." CreationDate="2010-08-16T19:05:16.273" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2492" PostId="2548" Text="Note: I had a hard time picking a tag for this.  Anyone who has a better idea on tags, step up and retag." CreationDate="2010-08-16T19:11:21.627" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2493" PostId="2550" Score="1" Text="In the 2nd sentence you contrast &quot;longer focal lengths&quot; with &quot;wider focal lengths&quot;, where I expected either longer vs shorter, or wider vs. narrower.  Or am I misunderstanding something, and longer vs. wider does make sense?" CreationDate="2010-08-16T19:14:14.197" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2494" PostId="2550" Score="1" Text="@jfklein1319 - sorry, that's just me mixing terminology! I'll pick one and stick with it.  (One might argue it has some technical basis, but it's definitely less than clear, which is what I think counts.)" CreationDate="2010-08-16T19:17:03.397" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2497" PostId="2554" Score="6" Text="I may be mistaken, but I don't believe CHDK is available for Canon DSLRs, just point and shoots. It probably won't influence your decision, but it's worth bearing in mind." CreationDate="2010-08-16T21:47:36.397" UserId="59" />
  <row Id="2498" PostId="2554" Text="@Mark, that's correct." CreationDate="2010-08-16T21:48:32.543" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2499" PostId="2554" Score="1" Text="There isn't any universal sweet spot, it all depends on how much money you want to spend and how much camera you need." CreationDate="2010-08-16T22:13:57.190" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2500" PostId="419" Text="Agreed! That was a great course!" CreationDate="2010-08-16T22:46:18.417" UserId="355" />
  <row Id="2501" PostId="2502" Text="Off-topic for this site" CreationDate="2010-08-16T23:06:36.543" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="2502" PostId="2550" Text="@Matt: While I understand the technical basis, I agree it can be a little confusing if you don't have the technical knowledge. As such, your second paragraph kind of has the same mixture: &quot;a wide shot and crop down...shot with a longer lens&quot;. It might be good to change that to &quot;...shot with a narrower field of view&quot; or something similar, to maintain the wide/narrow, long/short consistency. " CreationDate="2010-08-16T23:09:45.180" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2503" PostId="2557" Score="1" Text="I love this technique when its used in motion pictures. An example is in LOTR - FOTR when Frodo and the rest are on that path before the Wraith rides along." CreationDate="2010-08-16T23:41:19.317" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2504" PostId="2541" Text="@Matt: I meant the &quot;most commonly known&quot; or &quot;most familiar&quot;, but I've removed the line nevertheless. As for the rest, I'm sure its not 100% accurate for every lens ever made for every sensor size known to man, but it wasn't my point to be that accurate. The *general* idea is simply that sensor size can have an effect on FOV, which has the effect of changing the amount of *apparent* scene magnification you get for a given focal length. Its all illusory anyway, none of it is &quot;actual&quot;, but the effect is there nonetheless." CreationDate="2010-08-17T00:15:55.410" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2505" PostId="1235" Text="I've tried both and I instantly preferred Lightroom. Its seems much more efficient at the basic level." CreationDate="2010-08-17T00:20:38.613" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2506" PostId="2550" Text="@jrista - I've changed it to try and be a little more clear; the second paragraph deals with lenses a little more explicitly, so I've opted for that description there." CreationDate="2010-08-17T00:27:11.893" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2507" PostId="2550" Text="@Matt: Looks good. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-17T00:42:21.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2510" PostId="2562" Text="I understand how lenses work. To clarify, this was what my intuition was scratching noggins at: http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/2347/52606135.png (ahh, good ol' mspaint)" CreationDate="2010-08-17T01:06:13.203" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2513" PostId="2530" Text="Fantastic! Thanks." CreationDate="2010-08-17T01:35:44.507" UserId="1065" />
  <row Id="2514" PostId="2525" Text="Actually Paint.net, but I have GIMP too. Sorry, I should have said so..." CreationDate="2010-08-17T01:36:43.023" UserId="1065" />
  <row Id="2517" PostId="896" Text="OK, I ordered a TrekPod. I'll try it out and report back. W.r.t. the multiple answers, go for it. It's well accepted when you have multiple distinct things to say, which is the case here." CreationDate="2010-08-17T03:01:06.970" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2518" PostId="896" Text="I pulled out the TrekPod part out into another answer. Hope it helps. I wanted to note, I purchased a Gitzo GH1780QR head for my GT0541 tripod. Its the lightest combination I could find, and comes to a total of 1200 grams. If I remove the center pole from the tripod, its just under 1000 grams. It is about as close to the edge of light-weight but still stable as you can get. Despite being 1200 grams, it is VERY nice for hiking around with, hardly noticeable next to my several pounds worth of other gear." CreationDate="2010-08-17T03:16:18.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2519" PostId="2171" Text="great advice, thank you! though I'm looking for more street photo specific info, this could defo apply" CreationDate="2010-08-17T03:34:41.250" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2520" PostId="2200" Text="it was between you and matt man, but great great answer, thank you" CreationDate="2010-08-17T03:35:55.040" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2522" PostId="2562" Text="@Nick - I think where your intuition is misleading you is with respect to the point of focus.  If you have a point source, it should focus to a point on the sensor.  The proper point of focus in your diagram is where the lines cross; in which case, our diagrams are equivalent.  Basically: the aperture restricts the cone of light that passes through the lens, but light from the same point will always focus to the same place (imagining the ideal lens, that is)." CreationDate="2010-08-17T04:26:08.223" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2524" PostId="2562" Text="@Nick - also worth pointing out is that your diagram does indicate  why wider apertures lead to blurrier backgrounds!  The light from the out-of-focus point is spread wider across the sensor." CreationDate="2010-08-17T04:53:11.747" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2526" PostId="2444" Text="I wouldn't say its &quot;impossible&quot; to view it on a monitor. It would depend on the monitors capabilities. Granted, I can't say that I've heard of a screen capable of full 32bit HDR color rendition, however such a thing is not *impossible*. Some of the most recent high-end LED flat panel screens are capable of at the very least 14bit display, some up to the full 16bits, which puts them well beyond the limited 8bit, 16 million colors normally available on a CRT or LCD screen (something in the area of 270 billion colors, I think, or 65k tones vs. 256.)" CreationDate="2010-08-17T05:10:06.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2529" PostId="2541" Score="1" Text="@Reid: I guess you could make that &quot;summary&quot;, from one point of view. On the other hand, I think there are some benefits to a cropped sensor with higher MP and well-controlled noise (the Rebel T2i, for example). You do get the *benefit* of additional &quot;apparent magnification&quot;, which kind of gives you more bang for the buck if you do a lot of telephoto work. Even if cost is no issue, a cropped sensor still offers more magnification without the added requirement of cropping a larger image post-process. You also have the added benefit of smaller images, which means faster write times, etc." CreationDate="2010-08-17T05:19:24.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2531" PostId="2562" Text="Matt, sorry about my own confusion. I now understand. It would be better to say that the focal point of each point source falls *on the image plane*. This is what I was confusing." CreationDate="2010-08-17T05:24:17.530" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2532" PostId="2444" Score="4" Text="It seems there is a true HDR screen on the market. Dolby purchased HDRI LED technology from a company called BrightSide, which is used in new screens they are releasing. It is 16-bit floating point, so it wouldn't have the full dynamic range of a true 32-bit floating point HDR image, however it does have considerably greater contrast range than any other screen known to man at the moment. They are supposedly due out this year...however I don't know if they will be only in TV format, or if there will be a computer screen version." CreationDate="2010-08-17T05:39:00.480" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2533" PostId="2565" Text="One note on sharpness -- some libraries ask that you do not sharpen your images prior to submission." CreationDate="2010-08-17T08:08:23.023" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2534" PostId="2554" Score="1" Text="That's really sad regarding CHDK. I'm hoping it's because it's not needed as much on the DSLR range..." CreationDate="2010-08-17T09:51:20.593" UserId="1076" />
  <row Id="2535" PostId="2572" Text="Great tip. I'd not thought of that." CreationDate="2010-08-17T09:54:37.953" UserId="1076" />
  <row Id="2536" PostId="2573" Text="Hmm, the GT0531 is 700g for just the legs, and sounds like the GT0027 would go over budget when a head is added. Thanks though!" CreationDate="2010-08-17T15:31:19.567" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2537" PostId="2570" Text="Yeah, the point is that weight is a true premium. I realize that I will have to compromise on other things. The question isn't &quot;given good stability, how low can I get the weight&quot;, it's &quot;given this weight budget, what is available?&quot;. Thanks though." CreationDate="2010-08-17T15:33:24.483" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2538" PostId="2578" Text="Certainly a fair answer. That's one of KR's more hyperbolic and controversial pieces, however; there's at least a few rebuttals out there though I don't have one handy." CreationDate="2010-08-17T16:02:20.780" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2539" PostId="2557" Text="@jrista: So in cinematography, are they actually moving the camera at the same time? In still photography, I take it that you will need to change lenses between shots or can you do this with one lens? How do they do it with one lens in movies?" CreationDate="2010-08-17T16:53:01.107" UserId="522" />
  <row Id="2540" PostId="2557" Text="@Dennis: In cinematography, they are moving the camera at the same time they change focal length. I am not a cinematographer myself, so I don't know specifically, however I believe they actually have special camera apparatuses that automatically take care of movement and focal length changes for you." CreationDate="2010-08-17T18:15:27.887" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2541" PostId="2575" Text="Does this mean it wont work on a full frame digital camera as well?" CreationDate="2010-08-17T19:11:13.017" UserId="540" />
  <row Id="2542" PostId="2575" Score="1" Text="Yes, that's correct." CreationDate="2010-08-17T19:27:33.430" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2543" PostId="2588" Text="+1 on the simplicity level. It's for the twitter generation. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-17T19:27:55.723" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2544" PostId="1049" Score="1" Text="As a related note, I found my photoshoots are always worse when I'm dealing with folks with whom I don't share a common language, unless they know me.  Communication is very helpful in taking the edge off." CreationDate="2010-08-17T20:07:53.130" UserId="1095" />
  <row Id="2545" PostId="2588" Score="2" Text="I wouldn't count out the ability of a nine year old to understand newer technology.  Their brains are more plastic than us old people-- my 2 year old neighbor can operate an iPad better than his parents." CreationDate="2010-08-17T20:26:36.410" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2546" PostId="19" Text="Which is the Japenese word (&quot;boke&quot;) for *blur* or *haze*." CreationDate="2010-08-17T22:34:27.930" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2547" PostId="1453" Text="Haven't done a comparison at say, f/4 or f/8, but at f/2.8 the prime is still soft." CreationDate="2010-08-17T22:58:04.000" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="2548" PostId="2592" Text="Well that seems to keep the display in info mode, but alas, the display is still on. If only the LCD brightness setting had an OFF choice. I already have it turned all the way down..." CreationDate="2010-08-18T00:10:12.250" UserId="1091" />
  <row Id="2549" PostId="2553" Text="so, 4:1 is in gerenal a good aspect ratio?" CreationDate="2010-08-18T01:36:55.107" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="2550" PostId="2595" Score="1" Text="Apparently, there are some people who don't believe in market forces, because my answer got a downvote.  Or am I just guessing?  Why not leave a comment as to why I'm wrong?" CreationDate="2010-08-18T02:02:33.393" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2551" PostId="2595" Text="I didn't downvote you, but I disagree somewhat. Certainly the margins are probably a bit higher on the pro lenses, but there is also a reason they cost that much. See some of the other answers, especially Alan's. 1 whole stop can make a huge difference." CreationDate="2010-08-18T02:30:26.820" UserId="95" />
  <row Id="2552" PostId="2595" Score="1" Text="But this is a business.  To suggest otherwise is to ignore the reality.  And in business, things cost what they do because it's what the market will bear.  That's the final answer.  All the rest of it is explanation or justification that a marketing team uses to get you to buy something; that's what marketing teams do." CreationDate="2010-08-18T04:02:47.620" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2553" PostId="2595" Score="2" Text="It is common courtesy to explain why you downvoted if it's not apparent why the answer is wrong. This helps the Answer Author understand whatsup, as well as informs the community." CreationDate="2010-08-18T04:02:48.510" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2554" PostId="2595" Score="3" Text="@mmr: &quot;What the market will bare&quot; aka &quot;Supply and Demand&quot; indicates what the optimal price of goods *should* be, but does not answer the OP's question: Why Lens X is more expensive than Lens Y,if the difference is something miniscule. Furthermore, the price of a good reflects more than market forces. It has the R&amp;D costs, profit, marketing, etc built into it. For example is market forces were to dictate the price of the Wii when it first came out, Nintendo should have sold it near $599+ as that is what the market value for a Wii was, instead of the $249.99 MSRP. " CreationDate="2010-08-18T04:18:01.823" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2555" PostId="2594" Score="1" Text="4 stops is the marketing number but actually achieving that in practice is rare, at least on the Nikon side." CreationDate="2010-08-18T04:32:12.297" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2556" PostId="2595" Score="2" Text="I think it's an astute observation. Rational pricing has zilch to do with the cost of production and everything to do with what the market will bear. +1" CreationDate="2010-08-18T04:33:28.817" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2557" PostId="2595" Score="1" Text="I'm likely to vote the whole question down if we can't get away from the armchair economics! :-)" CreationDate="2010-08-18T04:49:56.940" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2558" PostId="2594" Score="3" Text="Additionally, more expensive lenses are usually made in smaller batches, which means that per-piece manufacturing costs are higher. This might not have a big effect on relatively common 70-200 f/2.8 zooms, but definitely affects price of tilt-shift lenses and other special glass." CreationDate="2010-08-18T05:36:54.777" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2559" PostId="2594" Score="2" Text="@Reid: The 4 stops is from actual testing (see the link I posted), specific to the 70-200 Mark II. Other IS canon lenses are 2 stops typical, 3 with steady hands." CreationDate="2010-08-18T05:45:45.010" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2560" PostId="2553" Text="As I said, there's no rule - it's more about how good the photo is. If it's a good photo, it won't matter. Don't get hung up on the aspect ratio, and concentrate on the shot itself." CreationDate="2010-08-18T06:03:24.350" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="2561" PostId="2594" Text="background *blur*" CreationDate="2010-08-18T06:13:48.323" UserId="522" />
  <row Id="2562" PostId="2597" Text="Of course, I can use RawTherapee if Canon doesn't have a ViewNX equivalent." CreationDate="2010-08-18T07:15:17.273" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="2563" PostId="2598" Text="I don't own a Canon, I just have a couple hundreds of CR2s from an in-door event, and they need some processing." CreationDate="2010-08-18T07:56:32.087" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="2564" PostId="166" Text="@reuscam When doing macro photography, you'll probably use something between f/8 and f/16. Because of the magnication (1:1), the depth of field would be incredibly small when using f/2.8 or f/3.5." CreationDate="2010-08-18T09:14:26.060" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="2565" PostId="2601" Score="1" Text="Are you asking about the usefulness of prime lenses or a 200mm focal length?" CreationDate="2010-08-18T12:52:06.030" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="2566" PostId="2588" Score="1" Text="Selected, in part because I neglected to mention she has three younger brothers and ruggedness and being waterproof are necessities I hadn't considered." CreationDate="2010-08-18T12:59:33.490" UserId="1094" />
  <row Id="2567" PostId="2593" Score="1" Text="It's not like I think that this was a bad question or should be closed, but unless the lens manufacturers publish their R&amp;D and production costs as well as the margins *per lens*, there is no way to provide other than speculative answer. " CreationDate="2010-08-18T14:02:43.950" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2568" PostId="2601" Text="i think the answer might depend on the aperture also." CreationDate="2010-08-18T14:11:30.933" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="2569" PostId="2595" Score="1" Text="@Alan-- the problem is that the technologies aren't the sole reason for the price.  Take the Nikon 200mm f/4 macro and compare it to the Tamron f3.5 180mm macro.  Both are macro lenses, and the results produced by them (in skilled hands) are indistinguishable from one another, at least from the images on pbase.com shown in blind tests to independent raters.  But the Nikon costs 3x as much-- that's not a technology difference, that's a branding difference, paying for the Nikkor name." CreationDate="2010-08-18T14:13:05.517" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2570" PostId="2611" Text="Thanks for the T-stops reference. Sometimes its helpful just to know the name of something (how else can you Google search it?)" CreationDate="2010-08-18T14:51:44.333" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="2571" PostId="2614" Text="Yes, you can update a plug-in version without updating Photoshop." CreationDate="2010-08-18T15:04:16.283" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2573" PostId="2606" Text="@Jared can you clarify what is your understanding of &quot;fast&quot; in relation to  lens, and what are you expectations in terms of the benefit of using &quot;fast&quot; lens?" CreationDate="2010-08-18T15:41:13.333" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="2574" PostId="2618" Text="+1 Useful additional tip that *might not* require any extra purchases (I tend to use CPLs as lens protectors, as they're so useful outdoors anyway)" CreationDate="2010-08-18T15:47:06.953" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2575" PostId="2618" Text="Interesting choice, though there are times I'd prefer not to have the light loss, but I can see the benefit for certain types of outdoor photography. Mind you, I use the Cokin system, so my lenses aren't normally filtered until I need it anyways." CreationDate="2010-08-18T15:57:47.557" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2576" PostId="2619" Text="Your suggestion are for 1.4 and they are automatically more expensive because of the lower F. Thank you for your input, I appreciate an other point of view." CreationDate="2010-08-18T16:00:33.203" UserId="1112" />
  <row Id="2578" PostId="2614" Text="I'll check your link when coming back at home! Hope it works that would be so sweet!!!" CreationDate="2010-08-18T16:01:37.587" UserId="1112" />
  <row Id="2579" PostId="2610" Text="I think the question should better rephrased to something like &quot;what filter should be used to lengthen exposure?, because the word &quot;best&quot; only makes it subjective." CreationDate="2010-08-18T16:58:06.763" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2580" PostId="2610" Text="Done :) I changed the title for yours." CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:02:08.987" UserId="1112" />
  <row Id="2581" PostId="2614" Text="Sorry to disappoint, but it's not a download link." CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:13:20.997" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2582" PostId="2618" Text="I've read that you can use two (Non circular IIRC) Polarizers stacked on top of each other to create a variable ND filter. As you might be aware, two polarizering filters that are set  to filter light perpendicular to each other will completely block light (try it with a couple of sunglasses!). I thought this was a unique solution. The obvious downsides are needing two non-cpls, vignetting, and possible ghosting." CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:24:39.233" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2583" PostId="2614" Text="He'll need Photoshop CS4 or better because, as far as I know, ACR is tied to the Photoshop/Bridge versions, so 5.4 is CS4, and 6.1 is CS5. Worth noting anyways." CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:31:32.653" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2584" PostId="2600" Text="I need to complete the entire color management workflow, from shooting a target to printing on a professional printer. Creating displays ICC profiles is a part of the job, ICC profiles of the printers with different setting and paper types really matters. There are colorimeters and spectrometers for example, the latter being a much more complete device ... what is the best choice is the dilemma :)" CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:40:00.160" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="2585" PostId="2618" Text="I've heard of that technique as well, which I always thought was interesting though I've never tried it since I actually only have one linear polarizer. I would think the other downside would probably be effect on autofocus, linear polarizers can mess that up." CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:42:31.370" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2588" PostId="1074" Text="How you fine tune .dng after creating them?" CreationDate="2010-08-18T17:52:00.603" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="2589" PostId="2618" Score="1" Text="@Alan @John - only one linear polariser, the one in the front. CPLs are just linear polarisers with a quarter-wave plate on the back.  Typically, though, this setup takes you pretty far from &quot;neutral&quot; in terms of colour." CreationDate="2010-08-18T18:41:42.610" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2590" PostId="2606" Score="2" Text="@kristof: A lens with a large max aperture (small f-stop number) is called a fast lens, because it allows shorter exposure times." CreationDate="2010-08-18T19:07:25.477" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2591" PostId="2618" Text="@matt Thanks, I checked out Karel's link after and realized that it was a mix, but a little late. :) Anyways, interesting concept." CreationDate="2010-08-18T20:00:47.037" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2592" PostId="1453" Text="See this comparison at f/2.8 http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/522/which-lens-is-sharper-the-sigma-18-50mm-f2-8-or-the-tamron-17-50mm-f2-8/703#703" CreationDate="2010-08-18T20:14:01.823" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="2593" PostId="2444" Text="+1 for interesting news.  jrista, how do you keep up with all this stuff?!" CreationDate="2010-08-18T20:52:04.963" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2594" PostId="703" Text="A bit confused by a comma above; do you mean it's sharper when using slow shutter speeds? If so, that's a different problem than sharpness." CreationDate="2010-08-18T20:53:31.183" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2595" PostId="2613" Text="+1: for referencing that article. Random story: I posted a comment on that blog post on Feb 29th, 2008." CreationDate="2010-08-18T21:05:39.377" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2596" PostId="2444" Text="I'm always digging... ;P" CreationDate="2010-08-18T21:21:38.963" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2597" PostId="2621" Text="HDR, or High Dynamic Range, images are 32-bit floating point, rather than integer. They are not 8-bit integer, 4-channel, they are 32-bit float, 3-channel. That would mean they have a grand total of 96-bits per pixel. As floats, however, they have a considerably greater range than a 96-bit integer image would have. See: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/high-dynamic-range.htm" CreationDate="2010-08-18T21:26:09.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2598" PostId="2594" Text="Hmmm, unless I missed something, the test methodology description at that link is &quot;testing showed&quot; -- i.e., who knows whether to believe it or not. I don't doubt that sometimes you get four stops of improvement. Can you count on 4 stops? No." CreationDate="2010-08-18T22:14:37.280" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2599" PostId="2551" Score="2" Text="It's not really an answer as such, but I find that when shooting stitched panoramas, shooting each constituent image in portrait orientation results in a much less &quot;thin&quot; final image." CreationDate="2010-08-18T22:48:35.040" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="2600" PostId="2594" Score="1" Text="How is his information any more or less credible that your &quot;it's just a marketing number.&quot; Do you have the lens? Do you have a link that says testing only shows 3 stops? Until you do, I'm inclined to take his word for it." CreationDate="2010-08-18T22:55:45.170" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2601" PostId="2626" Score="4" Text="+1: scary, really." CreationDate="2010-08-18T23:48:16.877" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2602" PostId="2626" Text="@Alan: At least it wasn't a full-blown mathematical thesis like the last one. ;P" CreationDate="2010-08-18T23:52:51.407" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2603" PostId="2626" Text="I have a Dell U2410 IPS monitor and it's currently set to Adobe RGB. Would it be better to set my Canon to use the Adobe RGB profile, or leave it on sRGB?" CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:02:06.333" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2604" PostId="2626" Score="1" Text="@Nick: My preference, and there are different schools of thought on this, is to keep things in the widest gamut you can work with for as long as you can. If you start with less capability, and need more, your stuck with the &quot;less&quot; you started out with. If you start out with more capability, you can always approximate down to less, and preview how things might look under different gamuts. This goes for both sRGB and print profiles. So my recommendation is to use Adobe RGB whenever you have the option, as that will preserve the maximum amount of original data possible. " CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:04:44.177" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2605" PostId="2626" Score="1" Text="It should be noted that if you shoot in RAW, the camera color profile does not matter, as your raw images contain and unmodified data dump from the image sensor. Using Adobe RGB on your computer with RAW images will allow you to see more color accuracy from your RAW files, where as using sRGB will map out-of-gamut colors (usually in the greens, where the eye is most sensitive) to a smaller range of tones." CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:07:30.597" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2606" PostId="2603" Text="Compress the image? Objects won't appear closer together, they'll be bigger, or rather, zoomed in." CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:10:35.473" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2607" PostId="2626" Text="@Nick: actually you don't want to set your monitor to AdobeRGB. It will make all non-tagged images look correct, but in color managed software it will look bad. What you want to have your monitor set to is a calibrated profile that is specific to your device. Run AdobeGamma *or* use a hardware calibrator." CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:13:31.413" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2608" PostId="2603" Score="3" Text="@Nick: By compress *objects*, he means the *background*. Telephoto focal lengths have the effect of bringing things in depth &quot;closer&quot; to the key subject. Its called background compression, and is due to the narrower field of view. " CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:34:22.150" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2609" PostId="2626" Text="I agree with Alan, actually. Your monitor should be using a custom color profile generated by a color calibration device. That aside, if your monitor supports the Adobe RGB gamut, using a corrected color profile will not change that fact...it will always *support* the Adobe RGB gamut regardless. When I mentioned &quot;use Adobe RGB&quot; on your computer, I was referring to software, not the hardware. If you are working with image files, such as TIFF, between multiple software tools, I would use Adobe RGB when saving, rather than sRGB. That will preserve the maximum amount of color accuracy possible." CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:42:07.610" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2610" PostId="2626" Text="Depending on the colors present in an image, you may wish to convert to sRGB when saving a final copy for delivery to a professional print studio. If you are not using colors that require the Adobe RGB gamut, using sRGB sets a lower common denominator. Top of the line print shops will generally be able to use more color data, but sometimes sRGB is all thats supported." CreationDate="2010-08-19T00:44:09.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2611" PostId="2603" Text="Sorry about the terminology, thanks @jrista for the clarification!" CreationDate="2010-08-19T02:32:35.313" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2612" PostId="2628" Score="28" Text="+1 nailed it on the head. JPEG is the end, RAW is the beginning, and if you shoot JPEG, you just gave up your control of the end to the decisions of a programmer who may just have a different view." CreationDate="2010-08-19T02:47:37.493" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2613" PostId="2628" Text="Great response... +1 if not +2!" CreationDate="2010-08-19T02:57:02.370" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="2615" PostId="2601" Text="As far as I'm aware, the only Canon 200mm with Image Stabiliser (IS) is the EF 200mm f/2L IS USM... but that was released in 2008? There's 300mm f/2.8L and f/4L both with IS, or 200mm f/2.8L or f/1.8L without IS which this might be?" CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:17:59.810" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2616" PostId="2628" Text="Thanks. Well, that's what I was essentially saying. What are some examples of why not allowing the camera to convert to JPEG itself can result in. Great example indeed :)" CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:19:07.380" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2617" PostId="2607" Text="The lens in question *appears* to be the 200mm f/2L IS USM so with image stabiliser and f/2, the tripod probably isn't really necessary most of the time (though the OP might be mistaken about the 200mm or the IS or the age, since I don't think such a lens existed 10 years ago)." CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:20:06.770" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2618" PostId="2629" Text="I understand the range of detail in a higher bit image. I also understand what RAW provides. @jrista provided a great example (what I was after) of what you really can do with the RAW data over a pre-baked JPEG." CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:20:29.843" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2619" PostId="2554" Text="I've found that the things missing from the DSLRs from CHDK can be done with external equipment (e.g. an intervalometer for time-lapse or timed exposures &gt; 30 seconds)." CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:21:47.630" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2620" PostId="2628" Score="5" Text="And fantastic photo too :D" CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:24:16.273" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2621" PostId="2629" Score="1" Text="I realize, but others may view the question as well and wonder what the headroom is about, so sometimes the numbers can help explain what is seen." CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:26:55.417" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2622" PostId="2572" Text="On the other hand, your lenses will definitely work on the 1.6x crop, so depending on your lenses it *might* be a good thing to have them all &quot;upgraded&quot; to 1.6x their focal length. It's more likely to be a problem on the wide end rather than the telephoto. Your 50mm would be 85mm, so you'd want a 30mm to replace it. If you've already got a 30mm then you'd need 20mm to go that wide (which is starting to get a lot more expensive)." CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:28:06.260" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2623" PostId="2571" Score="1" Text="The 400D and 1000D are also in approximately the same category. I'd recommend them over the 300D/350D as Canon made some big improvements to ISO levels above 200 since then." CreationDate="2010-08-19T03:30:18.243" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2624" PostId="2628" Text="Glad to be of service. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-19T04:13:59.030" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2625" PostId="2629" Text="@John: Thanks for explaining headroom...I probably should have done that. Great explanation. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-19T04:15:22.603" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2626" PostId="2627" Score="4" Text="Just a note to other potential answerers. Please don't look at my answer as reason not to post your own examples. Like Nick, I think it would be very useful to see more visual examples of the benefits of RAW over JPEG. So, if you have an example comparison to offer, please post it! " CreationDate="2010-08-19T04:18:14.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2627" PostId="2628" Text="Looking at the images I posted, I think the RAW version is actually Pre-HDR. The HDR version looks even better, as there is more tonality in the trees, and the sky is a bit brighter. However, despite that, I think the RAW version I posted still demonstrates its value over JPEG." CreationDate="2010-08-19T04:22:48.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2628" PostId="2603" Score="2" Text="@Chills: I think the concept of background compression is an important one. I did not know of that particular term myself, although I did know of the effect. I think its a sadly undervalued capability of telephoto lengths (and the same goes for background decompression @ wide angles) and I've been glad to see several answers recently discussing it. So thanks!" CreationDate="2010-08-19T04:25:38.320" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2629" PostId="2627" Text="I agree. Also, it might be worthwhile capturing in RAW if just for the information that I, for one, thought might have been lost altogether due to the exposure. As a new photographer I wouldn't have even thought about RAW when trying to deal with something like that." CreationDate="2010-08-19T04:55:54.213" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2630" PostId="2627" Score="2" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/15/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-when-shooting-in-raw-vs-jpeg" CreationDate="2010-08-19T08:00:02.590" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2632" PostId="2623" Text="good point. :-)" CreationDate="2010-08-19T10:14:35.243" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="2633" PostId="2613" Score="1" Text="A word of caution - in theory you should be able to combine ND filters to get even longer exposures, but when you do this with Cokin filters the photos take on a pink cast. I've no idea why this is, but it is a common problem, so if you've not already bought into the Cokin system I'd go for Lee instead." CreationDate="2010-08-19T10:48:09.640" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="2634" PostId="2631" Score="2" Text="You better check your sources. Nikon does seem to process it's RAW files for noise (without the user being able to switch this out; reference: http://www.astrosurf.com/buil/nikon_test/test.htm), but other than that, RAW is &quot;sensor dump&quot; and not JPG." CreationDate="2010-08-19T13:42:55.650" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2635" PostId="2631" Score="1" Text="I think the source of the confusion is that there is a &quot;Lossless JPEG&quot; format -- but it's completely different from normal JPEG. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lossless_JPEG (&quot;Lossless JPEG... is used in DNG and some digital cameras to compress raw images&quot;). " CreationDate="2010-08-19T13:56:34.120" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="2636" PostId="2631" Score="2" Text="RAW is closer to TIFF than any other pre-existing format. From the [wikipedia page on RAW](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raw_image_format#File_contents): &quot;Many raw file formats ... are based on the TIFF file format. These files may deviate from the TIFF standard in a number of ways, including the use of a non-standard file header, the inclusion of additional image tags and the encryption of some of the tagged data.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-19T14:25:02.697" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2637" PostId="2631" Score="3" Text="@Mark: I've done extensive research on a variety of RAW camera formats where a public specification is available, and there is no question that RAW files are indeed direct sensor data. Most RAW images are like a DNG or TIFF file, in that they are more of a collection of other files, rather than a normal image format. They tend to include direct Bayer or layered CMOS sensor data for each pixel, camera metadata like the tone curves, white balance, EXIF, a JPEG thumbnail image, etc. Different sensors have different types and layouts for their pixels, and the raw image reflects the native layout." CreationDate="2010-08-19T15:14:56.283" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2638" PostId="2633" Text="This really surprised me, I would have figured, at least, that you would be able to do RAW+JPEG." CreationDate="2010-08-19T16:32:18.447" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2639" PostId="703" Text="These shots feel rather ad-hoc and subjective...I wouldn't take them as a definitive example of how sharp either lens is. There are more scientific ways of testing the sharpness of an image with official charts and lens mounting apparatuses. I recommend looking for an official review of both lenses." CreationDate="2010-08-19T16:36:35.747" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2640" PostId="2631" Score="1" Text="We should be careful when talking about RAW. It's not actually *true* raw sensor data, as the sensor reads an analog light source and converts them to electrons. The RAW data is the result of a 12-bit Analog to Digital conversion, which is technically separate from the sensor. This data is usually unmodified, but as @Karel points out, some camera makes will do some processing on the data. So while it's easiest to think of RAW as a sensor dump, it's not actually the output of the sensor...it does need to be converted to binary. A minute point, but a distinction that should be noted." CreationDate="2010-08-19T16:36:35.793" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2641" PostId="2607" Text="good answer. yer second bullet point has a typo: should read: &quot;...better optically than equivalent zooms.&quot;&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-19T16:55:56.877" UserId="681" />
  <row Id="2642" PostId="2629" Text="I don't think headroom is related to color depth, but instead brightness. RAW is 12-bit, but it's linear. Jpeg is 8bit, but a non-linear curve, with roughly 11 stops of dynamic range (which arguably allows for very complex lighted images). RAW unquestionably has more headroom than JPEG, but it's not as simple as 12-bits vs 8-bits. " CreationDate="2010-08-19T17:07:45.983" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2643" PostId="2629" Score="1" Text="@Alan, I was careful to note that the bits are levels per channel and that, ultimately, translates to more color range. When shooting JPEG, the camera will reduce the 4096 (say, as typical) levels that is captured down to 256, so I do think it's basically down to that." CreationDate="2010-08-19T17:29:08.927" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2644" PostId="2635" Score="7" Text="Maybe it's just my cheap uncalibrated monitor, but the raw image seems to have colors that are too bright (specifically the magenta dress), and is significantly more noisy/grainy than the JPG." CreationDate="2010-08-19T18:34:56.087" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="2645" PostId="2635" Score="1" Text="It does look a bit vibrant, however there also appears to be more detail in the RAW version. The vibrancy can be adjusted with the RAW image, to better approximate what the JPEG delivers, without losing the extra detail. As for the noise, a slight adjustment to luminence noise in Lightroom 3 will clear that right up without eliminating useful detail." CreationDate="2010-08-19T18:41:18.070" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2646" PostId="2631" Score="3" Text="I think taking this down to the level of ADC is a bit far. I think everyone here knows that the data is binary, and that its converted from an analog signal. However, the data stored in a RAW file IS that binary data as taken directly from each red, green, and blue (and possibly other colros for sensors that have them) pixel in most raw formats. It is not interpolated data to produce a full RGB color pixel like a normal image...its &quot;raw&quot; unprocessed binary data (excluding any analog to digital conversion...but I think thats being too nit-picky.)" CreationDate="2010-08-19T19:03:26.030" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2647" PostId="2637" Text="By better, are you referring to Image Quality? As @decasteljau has pointed out, there are some advantages Jpeg's inherently have over RAW, but I suspect you are asking about IQ." CreationDate="2010-08-19T20:23:17.840" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2648" PostId="2626" Text="Note that using a larger gamut such as AdobeRGB might result in less accuracy overall if the image doesn't make use of the larger gamut. The tones of the image are forced into a smaller number of codes." CreationDate="2010-08-19T20:34:08.983" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2649" PostId="2639" Score="1" Text="You got me wrong, I mean pictures. Your answer goes better with this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/15/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-when-shooting-in-raw-vs-jpeg" CreationDate="2010-08-19T20:34:52.630" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2650" PostId="2637" Text="Sorry, that's correct, clarified the question." CreationDate="2010-08-19T20:36:38.290" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2651" PostId="2638" Text="No is probably the correct answer 99,9% of the time, but I'm wondering what the 0,1% is:) See my edit." CreationDate="2010-08-19T20:38:59.423" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2652" PostId="2639" Text="My mistake leaving it too vague in the question, sorry. Made the clarification afterwards." CreationDate="2010-08-19T20:40:51.243" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2653" PostId="2645" Score="5" Text="At what aperture did you shoot? On 7D the diffraction starts to eat your sharpness from pretty low apertures (based on collective internet wisdom from around f/8). Wouldn't hurt if you could post an example." CreationDate="2010-08-19T21:10:12.063" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2654" PostId="2645" Score="3" Text="It would also help to know how you're evaluating the sharpness; print/screen, what program, what size, and like Karel mentions, an example if you can." CreationDate="2010-08-19T21:22:57.730" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2655" PostId="2631" Text="Sorry Mark, but even I know that your post is completely incorrect on so many levels." CreationDate="2010-08-19T22:06:03.330" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2656" PostId="2637" Text="Interresting method in that article, however it should be possible to reach the same result just from the RAW file. I wouldn't mind having a go at it..." CreationDate="2010-08-19T22:18:42.193" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2657" PostId="2646" Text="cool links! i've subscribed to the digital photography school rss feed." CreationDate="2010-08-19T22:47:42.133" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2658" PostId="155" Text="The Canon G11 is a P&amp;S with manual controls, fast at taking the shot when you press the shutter, has a hot shoe for a flash gun and shoots RAW..." CreationDate="2010-08-19T23:01:52.380" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2659" PostId="2633" Text="Yeah, I don't quite understand the reasoning on that one, but it is also fairly easy to adapt to. Honestly, anyone who is using full auto instead of program probably isn't going to realize most of the gains of shooting raw anyway..." CreationDate="2010-08-19T23:35:45.367" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2660" PostId="2637" Text="Once I started using Topaz Denoise, I haven't looked back. It might be interesting, however, to try that trick after aggressive noise reduction to see if it brings even more of the detail back, despite the Topaz plugin being superb at it already." CreationDate="2010-08-20T01:06:42.003" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2661" PostId="2598" Text="Can Lightroom 3 import them?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T01:32:59.650" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2662" PostId="2639" Text="My last paragraph may be covering your question a little bit." CreationDate="2010-08-20T01:40:02.583" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="2663" PostId="2458" Text="So, did you pick something up? I'm curious." CreationDate="2010-08-20T01:51:27.483" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2664" PostId="2655" Text="Is it acceptable to add it in post, rather than taking it at the time? " CreationDate="2010-08-20T02:21:24.527" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2665" PostId="2656" Text="I keep wondering why 200 is the lowest &quot;true&quot; ISO for all Nikon DSLRs except the D3x and the D3000 (source: http://www.bythom.com/currentdslr.htm)." CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:11:44.967" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2666" PostId="2628" Text="I was able to get nearly all the way there starting with the JPEG, except for the blown out sky. http://imgur.com/NfR8p.jpg" CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:42:51.693" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2667" PostId="2628" Text="@Mark: This small resolution is missing something else that you can't really see, and that is sharpness. The original image was taken with a cheap EF-S 18-55mm, which has terrible softness at the extremes (in this case, 18mm). The RAW version allowed me to generate alternative exposures (-1.5/+1.5 EV), which I was then able to Merge to HDR with Photoshop. The final image was orders of magnitude better than the orignal, which included both the recovered sky and the vastly improved sharpness." CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:46:55.617" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2668" PostId="32" Text="I have a method for fixing white balance in Paint Shop Pro, so I don't worry about that RAW advantage. When I got my Pentax K-7, I decided to stick to JPEG exclusively and I haven't regretted it yet." CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:48:14.803" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2669" PostId="52" Text="The 12 bits are linear and the 8 bits are logarithmic, so you don't get as much advantage as you think you do." CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:49:10.027" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2670" PostId="1029" Score="1" Text="If you have a big DSLR, people will think you must know what you're doing and trust you more too :-P That's the theory anyhoo" CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:53:11.373" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2671" PostId="2342" Score="1" Text="While downloading your favorite raw to jpeg converter into the camera might be a nice feature, I don't expect to ever happen. It would require too much standardization on the part of the camera makers with very little payback for them." CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:54:30.217" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2672" PostId="963" Score="2" Text="It's called QuickTime, Alan. Apple made it for Windows too. Years ago." CreationDate="2010-08-20T03:54:57.577" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2673" PostId="2632" Text="You could try aperture priority mode with the ISO and other settings on auto? Set the aperture large to get the light in and the camera should be able to take care of the rest for unexperienced people. My 2c." CreationDate="2010-08-20T04:25:06.710" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2675" PostId="2628" Score="1" Text="The added examples improve an already excellent answer - thanks for incorporating my meager efforts. +1" CreationDate="2010-08-20T04:28:50.307" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2676" PostId="2629" Score="2" Text="The conversion from RAW to JPEG not only reduces the number of bits but it changes from linear to logarithmic representation. Since our visual response in the eye is also logarithmic, you lose less from this process than the numbers suggest." CreationDate="2010-08-20T04:39:31.527" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2677" PostId="2628" Text="@Mark: Thanks for the reworked jpeg. I probably should have made one of those myself in the first place, to better demonstrate the point. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-20T04:41:36.390" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2678" PostId="52" Score="1" Text="Actually, the 12 bits are not really linear in most cases. Whenever you view a RAW image, either in-camera or with editing software, there is usually a non-linear tone curve applied. (For example, Canon cameras have numerous Picture Styles, which are basically tone curves applied to each image.) A true, un-mapped RAW image has considerable dynamic range, but is generally rather dull, flat, and lacking in necessary contrast. Most of the time, people rarely see a 100% untoned RAW image, which also means you don't get the full dynamic range that might theoretically be offered by a sensor." CreationDate="2010-08-20T04:51:02.123" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2680" PostId="2646" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the reply, and for the detailed explanation of black and white!  My compact can take shots in B&amp;W directly (presumably by doing the conversion automatically), whilst the D90 will only allow manual conversion to B&amp;W.  I guess this is where the confusion lay.  " CreationDate="2010-08-20T07:16:01.167" UserId="602" />
  <row Id="2681" PostId="2651" Text="Great tips, thanks a lot!" CreationDate="2010-08-20T07:16:27.390" UserId="602" />
  <row Id="2684" PostId="2667" Text="More seriously though, your focus shouldn't be on how you can force eyeballs on your site. There's no point if people visit and then leave straight away. If your work is good, people will see it. Focus on your art." CreationDate="2010-08-20T08:30:53.873" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2686" PostId="2651" Text="+1 for making sure the (nearest) eye is pin-sharp - that always makes for a striking photo" CreationDate="2010-08-20T10:44:22.480" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="2688" PostId="2667" Text="Couldn't agree more." CreationDate="2010-08-20T11:39:33.833" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="2689" PostId="2655" Text="That is an option, but I prefer to avoid doing anything in post that I can do in the camera." CreationDate="2010-08-20T11:41:39.153" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2693" PostId="2669" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/874/what-is-the-difference-between-teleconverters-and-extension-tubes" CreationDate="2010-08-20T12:42:31.667" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2698" PostId="703" Text="absolutely agree @jrista - however, since I couldn't find any straight comparisons, I did my own.&#xA;&#xA;Also, ignoring the pixel peeping, looking at the 8000 photos i've taken in the past 12 months, I'm generally happier with the clarity of the photos taken with the Tamron than the 50mm 1.8" CreationDate="2010-08-20T15:41:09.227" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="2700" PostId="2632" Text="The problem I've found with putting it on Aperture Priority is that the shutter speed will go really low if it's dark and the inexperience people won't know that that's a slow speed and you'll get motion blur - with 'P' and the flash, it will never go below 1/60th." CreationDate="2010-08-20T15:44:41.660" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="2701" PostId="2633" Text="'P' with the 430EX on worked reasonably well last time i handed off the camera to others." CreationDate="2010-08-20T15:45:57.947" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="2704" PostId="2651" Text="Suggestions for an aperture?  For women and children, the really low apertures like f/2.8 seem good, but for men I've been wondering if something around f/5.6 is good.  Opinions?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T17:41:19.117" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2705" PostId="2680" Text="And then in addition to image tags and metadata, Lightroom stores a history of *edits* such as color tweaks, crops, and all that.  Where are those stored?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T17:48:51.210" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2706" PostId="2681" Text="Thanks for the response!&#xA;&#xA;The big thing i find is that the light output i get in manual mode (on-camera) is WAY more than when i run it as a slave off-camera.  I've tried upping the compensation and whatnot but with no luck... Thoughts?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:06:07.890" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2707" PostId="2674" Score="3" Text="What country did you want the results delivered to, and how large were you thinking?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:17:51.577" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2709" PostId="2681" Text="I'm still just finding my way through all of this, my main advice is to try to make a list of all the independent variables (settings).  Study what they do, experiment to confirm your understanding, and then when you go to shoot use it as a checklist of what the different settings are set to!  For example, what's the zoom head set to?  That can affect the amount of light getting to your subject.  Is the diffuser dome on? (Does the SB-600 come with one?)  That recently cost me a lot of grief when I was shooting through an umbrella and couldn't figure out why everything was so dark!" CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:19:40.077" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2711" PostId="2667" Score="3" Text="Actually I disagree. Consider how many artists were never appreciated during their day. Marketing is as bit as important as artistic skill. I'm not looking for gratification, but what is the point of making art if no-one can see it (unless that is what you are going for)." CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:42:15.180" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2712" PostId="2680" Text="They are stored in the lightroom catalog. The idea was that you would have only a single item to backup, instead of having to backup all the sidecar files." CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:44:29.903" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2713" PostId="2684" Text="+1: Adobe should do a better job explaining the importance of the lightroom catalog." CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:45:13.130" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2715" PostId="2682" Text="What do you send in the test print job?  I mean, how do you tell if you're getting what you expect?  I can make that a top-level question if you want." CreationDate="2010-08-20T18:55:37.633" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2717" PostId="2674" Score="1" Text="Also color fidelity is a critical factor. Do they have a color managed process and is it a good one? Do they do magic color correction on your files before printing? That you definitely don't want." CreationDate="2010-08-20T19:11:00.287" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2718" PostId="2683" Score="1" Text="+1 for being all too human is a bigger risk than not erasing in the &quot;right&quot; way." CreationDate="2010-08-20T19:13:45.180" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2719" PostId="2674" Text="Best is going to be tough to call, because as seen, there are at least 3 good answers here." CreationDate="2010-08-20T19:28:08.940" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2720" PostId="2641" Score="1" Text="@Alan - more scenarios: the camera knows something the converter doesn't (recognizes the lens and corrects for it), the camera does something the converter couldn't (underexposes for highlights)." CreationDate="2010-08-20T19:38:50.963" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2721" PostId="2683" Text="The camera manual will always recommend using the camera to format the card, as that's the only process they have any control over. Doesn't mean other methods aren't just as good." CreationDate="2010-08-20T19:41:40.723" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2722" PostId="2637" Score="1" Text="An interesting thing about the article linked, is that the Camera JPEG is still just processed RAW data. The author of the article stated he knew of no way to clean up his noisy ISO 6400 RAW, however I don't doubt for a moment that I could get just as good of results with Lightroom and the RAW as the in-camera JPEG. One way or another, both are still just processing red, green, and blue pixels from a bayer matrix...if it can be done with JPEG, it can be done with RAW." CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:14:12.437" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2723" PostId="2682" Text="Basically anything you want, but I'd use at least one well known test print image, which aren't too hard to find: http://www.google.com/images?q=color+test+print&#xA;Beyond that, use a few images that you have worked with, that you are sure of the color for." CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:25:30.383" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2724" PostId="2658" Text="Does the focus distance actually effect the flare much?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:27:06.887" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2725" PostId="2683" Text="@Mark No, doesn't mean other methods are worse, but nor does it mean other methods are better. It's just the manufacturer's recommendation, which is to say it's a good default choice." CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:27:50.490" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2726" PostId="2637" Text="For **EDIT2**, see here:  http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2005/how-does-adaptive-dynamic-range-work/2007#2007" CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:27:54.013" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2727" PostId="2578" Text="Any rebuttals?  I'd like to understand this better.  " CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:30:59.173" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2728" PostId="2458" Text="@John - I'm going to check out the Metz's this weekend. Pretty safe to bet I'll come home with the 20." CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:34:01.477" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2729" PostId="2637" Text="@Eruditass - in general, I know how it works. I'm curious what happens if you put camera JPG side by side with computer-processed RAW, where the JPG is optimized for highlights (D-lightning/Highlight priority) in camera and RAW uses all the headroom available." CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:40:35.080" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2730" PostId="2637" Score="1" Text="@jrista - &quot;if it can be done with JPEG, it can be done with RAW&quot; - you're making one assumption here that can't really be checked: RAW contains *all* the information available to camera when processing to JPG. Going further - the camera can even alter it's behaviour to get better data in the first place when shooting JPG (ie underexpose for highlights and apply correcting tone curve)." CreationDate="2010-08-20T20:50:02.240" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2732" PostId="2681" Text="I just found a very useful looking Nikon-based lighting blog that you might find helpful: http://nikonclspracticalguide.blogspot.com/2008/01/nikon-flash-two-separate-metering.html.  " CreationDate="2010-08-20T21:20:46.030" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2733" PostId="2680" Text="Wow.  So I wonder at what point the LR catalog starts being &quot;too big&quot;, either to back up or for the software to use efficiently.  I guess I'll find out." CreationDate="2010-08-20T21:37:17.160" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2734" PostId="2685" Text="Shutterfly also adds the ability to create a small community to share photos with.  They are a National Sponsor of AYSO (youth soccer) so teams get there own sites were the parents can upload pictures they took of the team, and other parents on the team can order prints of their kids.  Also the coach can use the site to publish team info like schedules, etc. " CreationDate="2010-08-20T21:49:55.233" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="2735" PostId="2658" Text="I'm actually not sure. The focal length often has an impact because the wider the angle, the more likely you are to include something like the sun to cause flare. Which, I guess, would argue for the focus distance having an impact as well." CreationDate="2010-08-20T22:19:21.473" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2737" PostId="2690" Text="Aha!  That might explain some surprises in recent shooting sessions.&#xA;&#xA;So in closed form the fraction of power is (d/(gn/f))^2?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T22:21:18.117" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2738" PostId="2674" Score="1" Text="This would seem to be a good topic for community wiki." CreationDate="2010-08-20T22:39:45.563" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2741" PostId="2658" Text="So did you mean manual mode? Or manual focus just because the autofocus doesn't work as well?" CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:12:38.147" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2742" PostId="2658" Score="1" Text="Both I think. You're going to want precision on shutter/aperture and on focus." CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:14:55.757" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2743" PostId="2690" Text="Yes, that's correct. Square of the ratio of the real distance and guide distance. (Though see my note about GN attached to the question.)" CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:15:54.693" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2744" PostId="2689" Text="GN doesn't double as ISO doubles, it increases by a factor of √2 (inverse-square law again), so your GN would be 272 in this situation." CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:17:02.993" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2745" PostId="2637" Text="@matt: This seems to have hit a nerve with you, so I'll drop it. " CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:42:48.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2746" PostId="2648" Text="I find the images soft (based on my 20D) with both auto and manual focus. I've been shooting for over 20 years and that includes 12 years in large format (i.e. I know what I'm doing)." CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:43:58.847" UserId="1139" />
  <row Id="2747" PostId="2645" Text="I've been evaluating from 5.6 to around f16, and I think the sweet spot should be about f8. The viewer does not modify the images, that is, my work flow has not changed, only the body." CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:46:30.247" UserId="1139" />
  <row Id="2748" PostId="2655" Score="2" Text="Adding flare in post looks fake anyways, at least in my opinion." CreationDate="2010-08-20T23:50:43.280" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2749" PostId="2693" Text="+1: Great point about astrophotography...it really hangs you out to dry when your trying to get nice sky shots on those rare, fully dark nights." CreationDate="2010-08-21T00:03:01.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2750" PostId="2693" Text="@jrista  I got bit by it once doing by doing a one hour exposure trying for star trails... Fortunately my battery was fully charged." CreationDate="2010-08-21T00:46:33.397" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2752" PostId="2637" Score="1" Text="@matt, Ctein may know a lot of tricks, but that doesn't mean he keeps up to date with noise reduction, an area that is constantly changing.  He used NoiseWare, which has been overshadowed by LR3 and Topaz DeNoise.  Using LR3, there's no way one would still have that kind of chroma noise.  Here is a shot from my K-x at ISO 102400: http://imgur.com/ejmX4.jpg&#xA;&#xA;Chroma noise can be removed fairly easily now.  Of course, you can overdo it and have color bleeding, but Ctein is nowhere near that at ISO 6400, even on a m43." CreationDate="2010-08-21T01:29:53.217" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2753" PostId="2637" Score="1" Text="@Karel, JPEG by definition cannot have any more headroom than RAW. How it looks depends on how you apply the tone curve, but there cannot be any more detail in the JPEG in the highlights. As stated in the link, enabling highlight priority will cause the RAW to be underexposed. &#xA;&#xA;Now, if you want to compare a RAW without highlight priority and a JPEG with highlight priority, that's a different story.  Shutter/ISO/Aperture will be completely different and I wouldn't consider a meaningful comparison." CreationDate="2010-08-21T01:36:16.417" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2754" PostId="2693" Text="@John, what happens if you run out of battery during the dark-frame? Does it still write the original exposure?" CreationDate="2010-08-21T01:39:03.230" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2755" PostId="2693" Text="@Eruditass - To be honest, I have no idea and I'm not sure I want to find out! However, my suspicion is that you would lose the image." CreationDate="2010-08-21T02:09:18.300" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2756" PostId="2689" Text="Thanks Matt.  Edit: Corrected Guide Number to what's published for the SB-800 at ISO 200, changed numbers in the example to make it easier to follow." CreationDate="2010-08-21T03:28:23.050" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2757" PostId="2695" Text="+1, great links." CreationDate="2010-08-21T03:35:44.653" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2758" PostId="2693" Text="@John: Ditto. I ran into it the first time I tried to photograph star trails as well. I set my exposure for an hour, and ended up having to wait two hours for the shot to finish." CreationDate="2010-08-21T03:52:45.453" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2759" PostId="2697" Score="1" Text="I think there might also be a slight shift of WB towards the cooler end of the spectrum, as most of the shots are lacking any real kind of warmth." CreationDate="2010-08-21T05:24:51.760" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2760" PostId="2594" Text="@Reid: Bryan, the author of the Digital Picture reviews, is a trustworthy guy. I've been reading his site for years, longer than I've even owned a camera, however all of my lens purchases were ultimately based on his reviews. They are quite accurate, as I can state from personal experience with the EF 16-35mm L II, EF 100-400mm L and 100mm Macro. Bryan clearly states in his review his personal tests with the IS of this lens, and he was able to get BETTER than 4 stops @ 70mm with a 1/4 shutter speed. The IS of this particular lens is phenomenal from what I hear from anyone who owns it." CreationDate="2010-08-21T06:18:52.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2761" PostId="2594" Text="Quote: &quot;Canon rates the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II USM Lens' IS system for 4-stops of assistance. Testing showed that I need a shutter speed of 1/80 to get a high percentage of sharp 70mm images with this lens. Turn on IS and my shutter speed requirement drops to about 1/4 second which is slightly *better than 4 stops of help.* At 200mm, my shutter speed requirements are 1/160-1/200 without IS and 1/15-1/20 with IS which is *between 3 and 4 stops of help*.&quot; Four stops @ 70mm ~= 1/5 shutter, Four stops @ 200mm ~= 1/13 shutter." CreationDate="2010-08-21T06:20:20.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2762" PostId="2698" Score="1" Text="+1. At least one of his works seems to be shot on Kodak Portra NC 800: http://www.flickr.com/photos/yosigo/4645138113/" CreationDate="2010-08-21T07:18:56.397" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2763" PostId="2637" Text="@Eruditass - I don't agree. If the only setting I change on my camera is from RAW to JPG and then get possibly better results (I'm asking if they are better, not assuming), it's meaningful comparison. BTW, shutter speed and aperture are left unchanged, so it's not a different picture." CreationDate="2010-08-21T07:37:49.477" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2764" PostId="2698" Text="@Karel good catch; I'm willing to bet that it's the same film in these two shots, given the location &amp; date." CreationDate="2010-08-21T08:03:39.097" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2765" PostId="2701" Text="Oh wow, I didn't realise this was even possible without using Nikon's own (very expensive) software!  Thanks for the link!" CreationDate="2010-08-21T08:05:58.220" UserId="602" />
  <row Id="2766" PostId="2698" Score="1" Text="When trying to mimic it digitally - note that the blacks are not really blacks (pull the curves up in the shadows) and add film grain. @matt - feel free to add it to your answer." CreationDate="2010-08-21T08:54:12.380" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2767" PostId="2698" Text="@Karel good observations, done." CreationDate="2010-08-21T10:01:08.370" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2768" PostId="2697" Text="@jrista Yeah, that's very possible too, it's a good point. I think matt is correct in that the guy is shooting film, but it looks like his look can be created in ACR." CreationDate="2010-08-21T12:37:54.293" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2769" PostId="2637" Text="But 2 exposures are 2 different pictures, even with exactly the same settings... essentially if you have a RAW+JPG of the same exposure, it will always be possible (not necessarily easy) to convert the RAW into at least as good quality using post-processing.  If the exposures are not identical, then all bets are off." CreationDate="2010-08-21T14:44:00.480" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2770" PostId="2674" Text="I was assuming the results would be delivered in the United States. &#xA;&#xA;And yes, despite attempting objectivity this is much more of a community wiki topic. (Not sure how we go about declaring it that?)" CreationDate="2010-08-21T15:54:35.473" UserId="1098" />
  <row Id="2771" PostId="2398" Text="Will give it a try. I think this is the only obvious choice. A 70-200 is not a superzoom. " CreationDate="2010-08-21T16:52:11.603" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="2772" PostId="2637" Text="@Karel, if the *only* thing you change is RAW to JPEG, the *highlight priority setting* is **not changed**, you are in the *first situation* I described, not the second one.  The JPEG cannot be better.  Changing *highlight priority* **will** change at least one of the 3 exposure settings. " CreationDate="2010-08-21T17:20:42.133" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2773" PostId="2704" Text="I voted to close this. See this meta discussion about unreleased, upcomming camera's http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/should-we-allow-questions-about-unreleased-cameras. It's difficult to predict the performance of a future product, or even judge a product that one does not own, so it's best to save these questions for a discussion board that allows for discussing unreleased gear." CreationDate="2010-08-21T17:26:57.570" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2774" PostId="2702" Text="You are correct about all gamuts containing the same number of colors...however smaller gamuts do not contain the same amount of &quot;accuracy&quot; as a larger gamut. Smaller gamuts are more approximated &amp; compressed, and if you shoot a lot of saturated colors, a larger gamut is more likely to preserve that original data than a smaller one. Adobe RGB, or for that matter ProPhoto (although I think that exceeds the visible spectrum...whole other can of worms there), allow more accurate representations of what you actually photographed, particularly if your primary viewing platform is a computer screen." CreationDate="2010-08-21T18:48:16.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2775" PostId="2637" Score="1" Text="I don't understand you, you don't understand me. Everybody keeps saying &quot;by definition&quot;. I'm not interested in theory. **I'm interested in the practical corner cases where shooting JPEG has an edge, whatever the reason was.** I shoot mostly RAW myself, sometimes both and I'm really not into religious pro-raw arguments." CreationDate="2010-08-21T19:17:14.243" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2776" PostId="2697" Text="Thanks for the examples! Great input." CreationDate="2010-08-21T19:23:39.503" UserId="91" />
  <row Id="2777" PostId="2698" Text="Awesome! Can't wait to give this a try. I have some overcast beach shots that I'll try this with." CreationDate="2010-08-21T19:25:45.037" UserId="91" />
  <row Id="2778" PostId="2502" Score="4" Text="Isn't it about photo editing?" CreationDate="2010-08-21T20:04:26.533" UserId="532" />
  <row Id="2779" PostId="2594" Text="I don't doubt that the author of the link is a standup guy or that his testing wasn't done in the best of faith. But test or experiment results shared without the methodology aren't data, they're anecdotes. I'm also not saying you shouldn't take his word for it, but know what kind of evidence is supporting your belief. Personally, I'm not going to believe any experiment where the methodology is not divulged. And another thing: if this fellow can consistently get 4 stops, why doesn't Canon do some tests in specialized circumstances and claim 5?" CreationDate="2010-08-21T20:07:11.833" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2780" PostId="2594" Text="The reason that &quot;it's just a marketing number&quot; is a credible claim is that companies have very strong incentives to claim the best possible attributes of any product. Thus, for mechanisms whose performance depends on many variables (e.g., IS), it's appropriate to be skeptical of manufacturer claims because those claims are likely to be made assuming highly advantageous values of those variables -- values which it may be unrealistic to encounter during actual use." CreationDate="2010-08-21T20:10:50.173" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2781" PostId="2704" Text="@grm, if you reformulate the question as &quot;I am having issues X and Y, will the 55-300 help with that&quot;, you're likely to have better luck." CreationDate="2010-08-21T20:12:41.930" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2782" PostId="2637" Text="@Karel, if the *only* thing you change is RAW to JPEG, JPEG will never have an advantage.  If you switch highlight priority as well as RAW to JPEG, it is a different story, because you are changing the exposure.  In all cases, where the only variable is the RAW/JPEG setting, JPEG **will never** have an advantage. Is that clear enough? &#xA;&#xA;FWIW, I shoot JPEG over RAW on several occasions for other reasons." CreationDate="2010-08-21T20:16:42.157" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2783" PostId="2704" Text="I was in doubt when I added this question. I will be more careful next time. " CreationDate="2010-08-21T21:26:07.967" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="2784" PostId="2398" Text="If you are thinking about going Full Frame in the future, there's also a 28-300, which a colleague of mine had for his Canon 5D and was very happy with it too." CreationDate="2010-08-21T22:22:14.883" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="2785" PostId="2704" Text="@grm: it's okay. It's not so much about being careful. It's rather that photo.se is more appropriate venue for asking question that have concrete answers, such as the example @Reid gave." CreationDate="2010-08-21T23:07:39.423" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2786" PostId="2705" Text="Its very hard to see...perhaps a long shot of something around 18% gray would be better?" CreationDate="2010-08-21T23:53:20.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2787" PostId="2697" Text="@Ian You're welcome!" CreationDate="2010-08-22T00:03:42.280" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2788" PostId="2653" Text="Bummer, though I suppose most people wouldn't use it, and if they really needed an external input they'd probably use a real video camera." CreationDate="2010-08-22T01:44:36.697" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="2789" PostId="2693" Score="1" Text="Not sure if its the same on the Pentax, but if I just switch my Canon off during dark-frame capture I'm pretty sure (its been a long time since I've left dark-frame subtraction on ;) it writes the file to the flash (presumably ditching the dark frame subtraction). So could be worth trying it out to see if you can manually skip the dark frame on particular shots?" CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:11:59.463" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2790" PostId="2693" Text="@drfrogsplat (okay, that name made me laugh) That's a very interesting idea, I might just have to try that. Thanks for the suggestion!" CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:16:01.843" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2791" PostId="2705" Text="JPEG has additional processing applied which, I think, you haven't matched. One obvious one is noise reduction, other than with Topaz, but you cannot assume that Topaz is doing the same thing as the camera. In fact, Topaz has created a more even appearance which I would expect from a black cap shot. Also, DFS isn't perfect, heat effects noise and the second exposure will be hotter than the first." CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:23:56.880" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2792" PostId="2708" Score="1" Text="Good, concise answer. Though I'd add that it's not limited to the disks caused by point sources, but also how they combine and to form the background in general.  A lens that exhibits softly-rendered disks will also tend to have softer backgrounds generally." CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:35:26.670" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2793" PostId="2637" Text="Usually, enabling something like highlight tone priority does not allow the camera to &quot;better use&quot; sensor data. All it really does is change exposure settings behind the scenes, which is not making &quot;better use of the sensor&quot;, its really just doing what you can do yourself with raw, without actually telling you thats what its doing. Like Eruditass has stated, in an apples-to-apples comparison, shooting JPEG will never result in a &quot;better&quot; shot than a manually processed RAW. This idea about a camera *theoretically* being able to to better processing because its &quot;in camera&quot; is just that...theory." CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:47:04.323" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2794" PostId="2637" Text="I've read a lot over the last few days on several forums, including the one linked to Ctein's article. I see a whole lot of speculation and contemplation about how the in-camera algorithms can be specifically tuned for the particular hardware quirks in every single individual camera. While it is an interesting concept, from a realistic, practical, mass-manufacturing standpoint, I don't think it *is* practical. Its not a viable business decision to spend time meticulously tuning a JPEG algorithm to every piece of hardware it runs on...that would increase cost and diminish ROI." CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:49:13.413" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2795" PostId="2704" Score="1" Text="@grm: We try to keep speculative topics off of Photo.SE, as those bring subjective opinion into the answers and comments. More often than not, subjective discussions provide little to no value to the community as a whole. Reid's proposal is an excellent one if you have a more specific question that can garner objective answers, and those are the kind of questions we like and want here on Photo.SE." CreationDate="2010-08-22T02:57:09.123" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2796" PostId="2637" Text="I am beginning to wonder if this topic has gotten off track a little? Or perhaps it is just too subjective a question? I'm not really sure we can get a solid, objective discussion going, as there seems to be a lot of opinion and subjectivity revolving around this particular topic. I had to end some of my own comments a couple days ago as they were headed in a undesirable direction. To offer an alternative venue, it might be best to continue discussion on this topic, which I do find interesting, in the Photo.SE chat, rather than in comments. http://chat.meta.stackoverflow.com/rooms/154/photo" CreationDate="2010-08-22T03:01:06.650" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2797" PostId="2712" Text="I have zero advice, but a Google search certainly indicated why you might find it interesting. Ken Rockwell seems to think that the Toyo 45CF may be a good option and you can actually get it at Adorama: http://www.adorama.com/TY45CF.html?utm_source=rflAID021866&amp;utm_medium=Affiliate&amp;utm_campaign=Other&amp;utm_term=Other" CreationDate="2010-08-22T03:46:35.967" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2799" PostId="2711" Text="Apologies, probably a bad way to use &quot;circle of confusion&quot;. I basically meant everything beyond &quot;perceptibly sharp&quot;, which as I understand it, is what the circles of confusion are. *** Well, there was a comment about that a moment ago...not sure where it went..." CreationDate="2010-08-22T06:10:52.540" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2800" PostId="2714" Text="The Ebony is pretty nice. Looks solidly built, which admittedly, the Tachihara's I've seen in person (there is one at a film development shop near here, but its not for sale) did not look quite so solid. The Wista's look pretty nice as well, and they have a pretty wide variety of woods. Thanks for the links!" CreationDate="2010-08-22T06:12:57.323" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2802" PostId="2713" Score="4" Text="Awesome answer.  Here is a nice visual comparison to go along some of what you've mentioned: http://rickdenney.com/bokeh_test.htm" CreationDate="2010-08-22T06:21:10.943" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2803" PostId="2709" Text="Thanks, good answer, +1" CreationDate="2010-08-22T06:54:49.830" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="2804" PostId="2711" Text="@jrista - It was me; I deleted it 'cause something clicked for me on a second reading and I understood." CreationDate="2010-08-22T07:06:18.217" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2805" PostId="2713" Score="2" Text="@Eruditass - that's the most thorough test, with some of the most obscure lenses, I've ever seen. Brilliant. I've added it to the answer." CreationDate="2010-08-22T07:21:00.103" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2806" PostId="2637" Text="@jrista - I agree that it's gotten off-track here so I'll leave it as is. My intention is to always get the most out of my camera and as I don't change them so often, I've time to learn it's tricks. This train of thought has lead me to at least one important discovery (regarding noise reduction)." CreationDate="2010-08-22T08:05:38.253" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2807" PostId="2705" Text="@jrista - well, on my laptop monitor they're indeed all black although there was a big difference on my photo editing monitor :) I'll boost brightness in even amounts once I get to it.&#xA;@John - I got what I wanted to know - **there's no point to shoot only RAW with long exposure noise reduction turned on and waste double time**. I don't want to start another argument. You can edit my answer if you feel that it's somehow not fair." CreationDate="2010-08-22T08:17:06.793" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2808" PostId="2716" Text="@Sam Thanks, the point about pictures from different cameras is important +1" CreationDate="2010-08-22T11:37:42.377" UserId="591" />
  <row Id="2809" PostId="2717" Text="Thanks for the tips. I've read about what it takes to actually shoot a 4x5, and the &quot;huge bag&quot; comment is so true! Its actually one of the things that has so far prevented me from just buying outright. Did not think about the light table, however I do have a great nearby photo shop with all the goods. Good point about learning how to develop slide film first. I plan to use Fuji Velvia 50 film, as it seems to be cream of the crop as far as landscape photography goes. It seems like I can get a 35mm camera quite cheap, so getting some practice with transparencies and E-6 should be easy enough." CreationDate="2010-08-22T15:35:37.527" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2810" PostId="2641" Text="@Karel: I think this idea about the camera having a finely-tuned algorithm specific to its hardware is intriguing, and a great theoretical discussion. However, I think it is something that is becoming unduly prolific in the online photographic community, and it really needs some concrete evidence to support it before we start assuming that its true. Evidence along the lines of an official manufacturer specification that clearly states they fine-tune their jpeg algorithm to each camera, or add knowledge about lenses. From a manufacturing/cost perspective, I don't think that its realistic." CreationDate="2010-08-22T15:59:42.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2811" PostId="2703" Score="2" Text="I asked a question about making black-and-white prints and their support team say that they don't post-process. Also worth noting, that reply only took a couple of hours. Generally a happy customer for a number if years now. " CreationDate="2010-08-22T18:25:45.400" UserId="999" />
  <row Id="2812" PostId="2626" Text="I've updated and added to the content of this answer to be more accurate. Its amazing the amount and complexity of information regarding color management. Hopefully this answer is now more useful to the community as a whole than it was before. I've included information on a new color space I came across not too long ago...I have not used it much myself, so I can't speak to it more than the base theory I've learned about and from it." CreationDate="2010-08-22T18:32:01.080" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2813" PostId="2651" Text="Lou O Bedlam (http://louobedlam.com/section/129954_DIGITAL.html) takes some great portraits and almost always at f/2.8 on a 50mm (on full frame camera). They look great. Wider than 2.8 is going to be really tricky to keep eyes sharp (although 2.8 is still gonna be hard for a self portrait)." CreationDate="2010-08-22T19:18:07.993" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2814" PostId="2614" Text="I have CS4 and it seem that I need to update my Photoshop to be able too do that." CreationDate="2010-08-22T19:44:35.973" UserId="1112" />
  <row Id="2815" PostId="2721" Text="Read a review of that once and got jealous, but I've invested so much in Pentax that I'll make do with teleconverters for now..." CreationDate="2010-08-22T20:02:21.477" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2816" PostId="2721" Text="Teleconverters or extension tubes? I think your looking for extension tubes, which allow you to focus closer to your subject, vs. a teleconverter, which effectively increases the focal length of your lens. The MP-E is basically a macro lens with built-in adjustable extension. " CreationDate="2010-08-22T20:38:41.123" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2817" PostId="2693" Text="@drfrogsplat, on my Canon 350D, if I switch it off while it's dark-framing, it'll finish the dark frame and then switch it off.  Which is okay if it's the last shot, since I can just put it back in the camera bag, and let it do it's thing while I head to bed." CreationDate="2010-08-22T20:45:38.080" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="2818" PostId="1219" Text="I have the Canon 35mm f2, and can confirm that it's a great short range indoor lens, especially for the price." CreationDate="2010-08-22T20:57:33.643" UserId="1180" />
  <row Id="2819" PostId="2724" Text="I wouldn't set expectations for myself but it can't hurt to give it a go, right?" CreationDate="2010-08-22T22:27:51.283" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2820" PostId="2726" Score="4" Text="+1. But don't forget that your time and effort is also a cost." CreationDate="2010-08-22T23:19:12.333" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2821" PostId="2177" Score="1" Text="ahhh... ok, my bad, I think this deserves it's own question!" CreationDate="2010-08-22T23:38:23.003" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="2822" PostId="2726" Text="Great point. I just assumed his time and effort were already sunk-costs due it being a hobby." CreationDate="2010-08-22T23:40:15.683" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2823" PostId="2721" Text="AFAIK, a TC will also effect magnification for macro lenses, a have a couple of them." CreationDate="2010-08-23T00:04:32.727" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2824" PostId="2607" Text="Thanks, Andrew!" CreationDate="2010-08-23T01:22:03.817" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="2825" PostId="131" Text="Thanks for that!" CreationDate="2010-08-23T01:26:09.707" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2826" PostId="2728" Score="3" Text="You might want to ask this over at http://webapps.stackexchange.com" CreationDate="2010-08-23T01:49:13.997" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2827" PostId="2722" Text="Does formatting entail fewer cell writes than deleting?" CreationDate="2010-08-23T02:05:58.457" UserId="1091" />
  <row Id="2828" PostId="2728" Score="1" Text="Sorry, I think this is off topic. This isn't a photography question, it's a website 'how-do-I' question." CreationDate="2010-08-23T03:08:19.843" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2829" PostId="2715" Text="No joke about that paper. Carl Zeiss is a ridiculously intelligent man..." CreationDate="2010-08-23T03:56:59.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2830" PostId="2726" Text="Not unless you love doing it in the process, *some* would say." CreationDate="2010-08-23T04:17:35.040" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2831" PostId="2735" Score="1" Text="I've tried to give a general answer below, but could probably be more precise if you noted which film, camera, and how it was developed." CreationDate="2010-08-23T04:35:05.920" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2832" PostId="703" Text="what shutter speed was the 50mm f/1.8 shot taken at? And was it taken on a tripod? It looks like it has a little motion blur which would make it very hard to compare sharpness..." CreationDate="2010-08-23T05:25:10.900" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="2833" PostId="2715" Text="I did say it was excellent, didn't I?" CreationDate="2010-08-23T05:56:41.817" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="2834" PostId="2684" Text="Think I'll be using that setting - my backup routine grabs all new and updated files, so I won't be too worried about the LR DB holding the data." CreationDate="2010-08-23T07:04:06.510" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="2835" PostId="2568" Text="This is the one that does it for me. While an image can be &quot;correct&quot;, it also needs to be &quot;different&quot;. I agree some types of shots are a dime a dozen, and will remember that on my future photo trips!" CreationDate="2010-08-23T07:10:42.863" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="2836" PostId="2728" Text="Well, thought that flickr is very photography related - since there are already flickr tagged questions ... And flickr is _the_ site for sharing digital photos. But of course that is just me." CreationDate="2010-08-23T07:37:46.520" UserId="1181" />
  <row Id="2837" PostId="2732" Text="Yeah, it looks like a promising start, but it silently assumes you want US-size passport photos (2&quot;x2&quot;).&#xA;So no good for me." CreationDate="2010-08-23T08:19:27.403" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2838" PostId="2723" Text="I also like MPix, the results are good and I've been very impressed with the care they take in packaging large prints." CreationDate="2010-08-23T08:29:08.650" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="2839" PostId="2705" Text="@Karel That's not a criticism, it's just an explanation for what you saw. For the record, I agree with you on using DFS and if I had the option to shut it off in my camera, I would. It works, but is not perfect, and doubles your shooting time." CreationDate="2010-08-23T10:45:25.740" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2840" PostId="2728" Text="@maxschlepzig: I can see how you reason, but those other questions deal with how to handle the photographs in relation to Flickr, while your question is about the Flickr site itself (interesting question though)." CreationDate="2010-08-23T10:48:10.523" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="2841" PostId="2740" Score="1" Text="I have closed this as too localised. The people interrested in this is locaised to a very small area, and also a quite specific purpose. Also, this is looking too much like an advertisment and too little like a question, so there has to be some other place that is better suited for this question." CreationDate="2010-08-23T11:00:03.453" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2844" PostId="2744" Text="Really good advise - Thanks" CreationDate="2010-08-23T12:05:53.283" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="2845" PostId="2744" Text="You're welcome! I should add that I don't use the word 'amateur' in a disparaging way in my first paragraph. Just that the people submitting aren't looking to make significant amounts of money from their pictures and so prices will reflect that. " CreationDate="2010-08-23T12:27:26.833" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="2846" PostId="2635" Text="The vibrancy is different.  As has been said it can be adjusted to taste, even with the jpeg.  This is a family snapshot for the grandparents, and they like bright color.  In these examples what I am mostly concerned with is the smearing and artifacts in the fine detail such as the hair.  The in-camera jpeg had all NR turned off, yet there is obviously some still going on.  If I were concerned with the noise (it won't be noticeable at all in 8&quot;x10&quot;s) I could use NR from the out-of-camera software I own and achieve much better results than the in-camera processing." CreationDate="2010-08-23T13:14:30.793" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2847" PostId="2717" Text="@jrista - not sure I understood you correctly, but you probably don't want to develop your Velvia yourself, do you? It's not like it was impossible, but setting up a darkroom and messing with chemistry is not what people usually want to do nowadays :) When talking about experience with emulsions I rather meant how they render the scene (contrast, saturation, white balance)." CreationDate="2010-08-23T13:14:41.090" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2848" PostId="2738" Text="Excellent information, that's kind of what I was looking for. Thanks for the advice, I've currently got 4 pictures coming in from snapfish, to do exactly as you mentioned. (I also wanted to test how well they looked in comparison to my printer, in case I ever got in a bind and needed to use it). " CreationDate="2010-08-23T13:22:18.970" UserId="1098" />
  <row Id="2849" PostId="2693" Text="I have found that exposures longer than 1 min (without the dark frame subtraction) with my 5D &amp; 5DII exhibit noise that sort of looks like grains of rice.  Using a variety of noise reduction software I've found them difficult to eliminate.  The dark frame subtraction seems to work much better.  Interestingly my old 20D is much cleaner with long, night time exposures, even with the NR turned off.  " CreationDate="2010-08-23T13:24:04.613" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2850" PostId="2690" Text="Going from 20' to 10' flash distance would increase exposure by x4 (2 stops).  2 stops less than full flash power would be 1/4th (2x2=4).  1/16th is 4 stops less (2x2x2x2=16), or what would be needed in the above example if the flash was moved to 5' from the subject." CreationDate="2010-08-23T13:36:06.290" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2851" PostId="2723" Text="I've been using Mpix.com for 6+ years.  I've been very happy.  I calibrate my monitor regularly, and check &quot;do not color correct&quot; when I order.  The prints always come back looking just as I expect." CreationDate="2010-08-23T13:44:48.113" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="2852" PostId="2740" Text="@Brendan, if you try again with something like &quot;how does one find studio space in Australia&quot; you might get some answers." CreationDate="2010-08-23T14:56:52.070" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2853" PostId="2114" Text="I want to buy it, but i have trouble with the $299 (CAD) price when I'm not making any money from photography.. but i guess it's just part of the price you pay - it's cheaper than a new lens." CreationDate="2010-08-23T15:17:05.237" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="2854" PostId="2717" Text="@Karel: Well, I'm a bit of a perfectionist, so I probably would end up developing it all myself. At least, unless I could be sure that I could get very consistent results by sending them out to be developed somewhere else. That said, I may have to hold off on this for a while. The cost of these cameras is pretty high, but that's just the camera. The overall cost of everything needed, including lenses and film, as well as the ongoing film development and scanning costs etc. sounds like it will be far too expensive for me to dive into right now. I appreciate the links, however. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-23T16:44:04.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2855" PostId="2697" Text="The Photoshop action you pointed me to helped me get pretty darn close to what I want. Here's one of my photos with that effect: http://www.flickr.com/photos/yaunus/4917378891/" CreationDate="2010-08-23T16:57:03.503" UserId="91" />
  <row Id="2856" PostId="2679" Text="Wholeheartedly agree. I've had AdoramaPix print an entire run for a show and the only mistakes were the couple I made uploading... I use them frequently and am always satisfied." CreationDate="2010-08-23T17:00:28.193" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="2857" PostId="2746" Score="3" Text="What currency is that?" CreationDate="2010-08-23T18:51:02.057" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2858" PostId="2746" Text="@Rowland: Good question, I assumed USD... Options get a little better if it's Pounds or Euros." CreationDate="2010-08-23T18:56:03.420" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2859" PostId="2746" Text="in us dollars (150$)" CreationDate="2010-08-23T18:56:09.863" UserId="338" />
  <row Id="2860" PostId="2717" Text="@jrista - having shot around 1000 frames of Velvia and Provia during the last year, I still don't know if the place where I process my films is extremely consistent or I just don't notice. Anyway, this is the place to look at when you're into home processing: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/. Getting off-topic, but I've been drooling over Kodachrome myself lately, although sending them to the only remaining place in the world where they're still developed - Dwayne's photo in Kansas - is a bit out of reach for me.." CreationDate="2010-08-23T19:34:06.573" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2861" PostId="2731" Text="could be me, but I've seen FAT16 or exFAT use much more than FAT32. (when formated by the camera)" CreationDate="2010-08-23T19:34:13.687" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="2862" PostId="2717" Text="I've read some about Kodachrome, but the very reason you mentioned is one of the reasons I decided to avoid it. From everything I've read, and at this point that includes dozens of web sites and half a dozen books, Velvia 50 is THE film for 4x5 Landscape photography...it apparently just saturates nicely and really brings out the colors of the scene. I think I'm going to spend more time learning and researching before I dive in, though. We have only two shops around Denver that do decent film processing or drum scanning, and I need to experiment with 35mm I think before doing 4x5." CreationDate="2010-08-23T19:45:10.187" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2863" PostId="2731" Text="exFAT is really just an extension to the baser FAT32 that increases disk size, removes limitations, etc. It uses larger numbers to reference sectors, file sizes, etc. I guess its important to make the distinction. I've never seen FAT16, as it would only be useful for extremely small card sizes of 1Gb or less. " CreationDate="2010-08-23T20:12:21.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2864" PostId="2731" Text="FAT16 had fewer patent issues so it was preferred for the smaller cards." CreationDate="2010-08-23T21:30:27.957" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="2865" PostId="2750" Text="@Reid - you've fallen for Canon's gag of using the same numbers for different models internationally. The IXUS 960 is the Powershot SD 950. Not a lot of difference in the specs, though." CreationDate="2010-08-23T22:11:47.723" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2866" PostId="2750" Text="Ugh, thanks for letting me know. Link corrected." CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:10:38.127" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2867" PostId="2750" Text="OK, link *not* corrected, as the SD 950 lists the number of photos only up to 512MB. WTF? Anyway, Matt's answer is better." CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:14:26.793" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2868" PostId="2751" Score="1" Text="I do remember (back in the SD days) seeing cameras being listed as compatible with SD cards up to N gigabytes. Has this issue gone away with the SDHC standard? Or was that a sneaky way of stating compatibility with only SD, not SDHC?" CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:16:13.483" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2869" PostId="2751" Text="@Reid - To my knowledge, yes, the problem should be sorted out (at least until people want more than 32GB cards). SDHC-compatible should mean precisely that.  Not sure about the sneakiness of the situation; might have just been extensions to use higher-capacity cards before there was an SDHC standard." CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:45:27.587" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2871" PostId="2750" Text="I think it's because the 950 comes with a 512mb flash card." CreationDate="2010-08-23T23:53:56.060" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2872" PostId="2713" Text="Wow, thank you sir. You hit classification and measurement very concisely, and thereby the means for evaluation. I'll have to peruse your answers to other questions on this site..." CreationDate="2010-08-24T01:56:27.087" UserId="1091" />
  <row Id="2873" PostId="2751" Text="Also this is pure speculation, and doesn't really answer the original question: what is the max size card supported. The SDHC spec doesn't have a limit on size, like original SD cards, but just because your camera supports SDHC does not mean it's future proof. " CreationDate="2010-08-24T02:58:31.563" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2874" PostId="2757" Text="Given the shape of the fruit its on, I don't think its a shadow. The mango rind curved down, out, then up, so there really isn't anything for a shadow to project onto at that particular point. Also, I would expect a shadow to be projected parallel to the direction of the flash, which was the built-in camera flash...so it should have been directly behind the fly, not off to the side. It doesn't really look like a ghost to me either...its a very odd effect. " CreationDate="2010-08-24T04:40:56.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2875" PostId="2755" Text="Actually, looking at all of the shots that have this effect in them, the shutter speed was very slow (far slower than I expected): 0.3sec, 0.4sec, 1/5th sec. I guess its exactly what you've stated...that the fly moved between the time the flash went off, and the exposure was completed." CreationDate="2010-08-24T04:44:18.153" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2876" PostId="2757" Text="I checked my flash setting. It was set to &quot;Auto&quot; for &quot;Exposure flash sync speed in Av mode&quot; (the other option was 1/200th), with first-curtain sync, no compensation. I'm not exactly certain what &quot;Auto&quot; means, but perhaps something along the lines of strobing? However, I thought that strobing was only used for extremely high speed sync (&gt; 1/200th)..." CreationDate="2010-08-24T04:50:08.937" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2877" PostId="22" Score="6" Text="Mine didn't last 10 minutes before I got annoyed with it dangling around." CreationDate="2010-08-24T04:51:23.383" UserId="1205" />
  <row Id="2878" PostId="2731" Text="Gocha. I don't think I've ever used a card smaller than 4Gb, and most of mine are 8 or 16gb." CreationDate="2010-08-24T04:51:42.743" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2879" PostId="2751" Text="@Alan http://www.sdcard.org/developers/tech/sdhc/ vs. http://www.sdcard.org/developers/tech/sdxc/ - sizes are part of the spec. I only expressed my confidence that a camera that's labelled as SDHC will actually work with an SDHC card. That's what the specs are for." CreationDate="2010-08-24T06:05:20.643" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2880" PostId="2760" Score="4" Text="Maybe you want to split your question in separate questions..." CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:13:39.490" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="2881" PostId="2751" Text="@matt: yep you're right. I missed the x vs h. They have 64gb sdxc cards :D" CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:22:49.563" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2882" PostId="2760" Text="please write answers in two part. :) " CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:24:27.913" UserId="1206" />
  <row Id="2883" PostId="2754" Score="2" Text="Just regarding the movement not showing the entire motion evenly, it depends how fast it moved. If it moved quickly then stopped, more image builds up where it's stopped. You can do the same taking long exposures of yourself waving your hand. Move slowly and evenly, you see the whole thing; move quickly and stop, you only see the start and stop. " CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:38:12.240" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2884" PostId="2678" Text="+1 for at least two backups. Never, ever delete photos from your camera without a copy of them all on at least 2 separate computers (or say, a PC and a portable Hard drive)" CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:50:23.583" UserId="1065" />
  <row Id="2885" PostId="2747" Text="Would love to know why this was downvoted?" CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:53:38.913" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2886" PostId="2755" Text="It looks to me like the ghost has its legs in subtly different positions, so this sounds the most likely cause to me..." CreationDate="2010-08-24T07:59:52.097" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2887" PostId="2761" Text="+1: Also, that it's mainly used by studio photographers, including in studio shots, and on-location shots." CreationDate="2010-08-24T08:02:57.497" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2888" PostId="2763" Text="Thank you Alan for the answer." CreationDate="2010-08-24T09:30:38.920" UserId="1208" />
  <row Id="2889" PostId="2757" Text="No, it wasn't strobing then. The reason it looks like shadow to me is the uniformity of it. The Canon 7d was, apparently, subject to ghosting during burst shooting but the ghost wasn't uniform, it was a faint, but clear version of the image from a previous shot." CreationDate="2010-08-24T10:51:36.217" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2890" PostId="2763" Text="+1 I think Alan has it covered." CreationDate="2010-08-24T10:53:34.130" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2891" PostId="2766" Score="1" Text="What operating system do you use?" CreationDate="2010-08-24T11:29:24.580" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2892" PostId="2711" Score="1" Text="That's a great bokeh example. Thanks for the insight." CreationDate="2010-08-24T11:51:04.990" UserId="1091" />
  <row Id="2893" PostId="2763" Text="+1 superb answer" CreationDate="2010-08-24T11:55:54.220" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="2894" PostId="2707" Text="Thanks for the insight, John, especially on sensors. What do you mean about angle of view. Does boken vary across the field of view so that perhaps a wide angle lens could produce a variegated of effect?" CreationDate="2010-08-24T12:05:45.767" UserId="1091" />
  <row Id="2895" PostId="2760" Score="1" Text="this really is two distinct questions. And &quot;best camera&quot; should be a community wiki." CreationDate="2010-08-24T12:09:20.257" UserId="1204" />
  <row Id="2896" PostId="2768" Text="Thanks Erica, some nice work there." CreationDate="2010-08-24T13:49:39.593" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2897" PostId="482" Text="PTGui pro is the best tool I ever tried, and I tried **every** tool :)" CreationDate="2010-08-24T17:05:53.333" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="2898" PostId="233" Text="Tried Hugin and it was the best OSS, but IMHO it is not so perfect as PTGui Pro is :)" CreationDate="2010-08-24T17:09:35.143" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="2899" PostId="2768" Text="Indeed, really great work there. The Lensbaby really adds a whole new level to photography..." CreationDate="2010-08-24T17:27:32.543" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2900" PostId="2777" Score="4" Text="It's a dedicated macro lens and *only* useful for macro work while the 100mm can be used for other purposes too." CreationDate="2010-08-24T17:33:12.727" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2901" PostId="2777" Text="@Karel, good point." CreationDate="2010-08-24T17:34:53.663" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2902" PostId="623" Text="Autopano has the best algorithms for stitching." CreationDate="2010-08-24T18:35:49.490" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="2903" PostId="2763" Text="Very good answer" CreationDate="2010-08-24T19:53:37.040" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="2904" PostId="2781" Text="If you look closely, you can see part of the &quot;ghost&quot; is superimposed over the top of the fly's final position. I don't think its a shadow. I was close, but not too close that my flash wasn't able to light the scene...it was actually pretty dim, and without flash, the foreground was completely dark." CreationDate="2010-08-24T20:05:40.710" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2905" PostId="2782" Score="2" Text="As an aside, @photogangle tweets all the new questions posted here..." CreationDate="2010-08-24T21:27:38.340" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2906" PostId="2281" Text="So... how do you say the name?" CreationDate="2010-08-24T23:49:05.530" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2907" PostId="2283" Score="1" Text="Same! Although you've both spent more time with one and more time before one. I'd always wanted to do photography but only recently got a chance to use a decent camera, as well as time to sit down and learn the mechanics of everything. A week with my 50D and I'm loving it! I just wish I had money to get past this crappy kit lens :P" CreationDate="2010-08-24T23:52:02.273" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2908" PostId="2790" Score="12" Text="Ouch. The sharpening on those are hurting my eyes." CreationDate="2010-08-24T23:53:52.023" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2909" PostId="2722" Text="@chrisnoe: I don't have any numbers or links handy to back this up, but compared to deleting a large number of images, my understanding is that formatting the card would entail fewer writes, yes." CreationDate="2010-08-25T01:10:59.143" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="2910" PostId="2788" Score="1" Text="Just a warning, don't ever disagree with him on Twitter over anything.  I know several photographers (including myself) who have been blocked by him for questioning something he said." CreationDate="2010-08-25T03:54:57.843" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="2911" PostId="2792" Score="4" Text="It's sobering to realise just how bland unedited shots can look beforehand." CreationDate="2010-08-25T04:30:49.993" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2912" PostId="2792" Text="Where is this taken? It reminds me of Bojnice in Slovakia." CreationDate="2010-08-25T04:44:57.370" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2913" PostId="2281" Text="Zenit Avtomat :)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T04:57:26.790" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2914" PostId="2790" Text="FLickr applies some sharpening itself." CreationDate="2010-08-25T04:59:02.003" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2915" PostId="2114" Text="Lightroom is worlds better than anything available for Linux, unfortunately. I now have a windows partition for that reason." CreationDate="2010-08-25T06:00:57.097" UserId="414" />
  <row Id="2916" PostId="2791" Text="+1: Also specific to Photoshop and Lightroom, both have a Color Saturation and Color Vibrance slider which is often used to produce vivid colors." CreationDate="2010-08-25T06:45:21.743" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2917" PostId="2796" Text="Thank for parsing and answering my question. I had a bit of a tough time wording it correctly, but you extracted it sufficiently well. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T07:03:10.000" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2918" PostId="2782" Score="2" Text="Should your twitter name be moved to your profile? At least one person flagged this question as spam." CreationDate="2010-08-25T07:52:04.747" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2919" PostId="2790" Score="1" Text="@Karel: Yes, but that's to compensate for the blurring that they get from resizing the images. Those images were oversharpened before uploding them." CreationDate="2010-08-25T08:02:03.683" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2920" PostId="2790" Score="3" Text="@Guffa - maybe, won't argue cause I haven't seen the images before uploading :) He's not shy with postprocessing, that's for sure." CreationDate="2010-08-25T08:50:47.270" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2921" PostId="2792" Score="1" Text="@jfklein: It's Karlštejn in the Czech Republic." CreationDate="2010-08-25T08:55:29.367" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="2922" PostId="2783" Text="Whoa! That LC-5 is 729 smackers in AU. That's about 10 times more than I was hoping to spend. Does it at least make me breakfast? ;) " CreationDate="2010-08-25T09:20:39.150" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="2923" PostId="2790" Text="@Karel: I haven't seen his images before uploading, but I have seen mine, and they don't get oversharpened. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T09:58:24.337" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2924" PostId="2766" Text="Ahh, good point - I've updated the question accordingly." CreationDate="2010-08-25T11:23:22.867" UserId="1194" />
  <row Id="2925" PostId="2802" Text="thanks Karel, just one more doubt cropped up after going through sensor formats. I am planning to buy an entry level DSLR, my choice was Canon 500D. The confusion is because of difference in sensor sizes used by Canon and Nikon. Nikon uses slightly larger size sensors than canon in their entry level DLSRs. Which one should i go for, more importantly how much it matters ?" CreationDate="2010-08-25T12:08:00.970" UserId="1209" />
  <row Id="2926" PostId="2802" Score="6" Text="@intoTHEwild: It doesn't matter, it's a fairly minimal difference and both make good cameras. I'd suggest, however, that you handle the various entry-level cameras in the store and read up on their features, these are more important than the slight sensor size differences. Also, don't necessarily limit yourself to Canon or Nikon, there are other options worth checking. " CreationDate="2010-08-25T12:16:14.873" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2927" PostId="2802" Text="You're welcome. The difference in sensor size between APS-C and DX is so small it doesn't really matter. You can compare cameras by pixel density (ie http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/ &amp; /Nikon/) and even the relation of pixel density to final output quality is far more complex than could be described in this comment space." CreationDate="2010-08-25T12:30:26.497" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2928" PostId="2781" Text="@jrista - Yes. Have to agree this is a weird one. The long shutter speed is a mystery to me..." CreationDate="2010-08-25T12:39:01.270" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="2929" PostId="2256" Text="I guess it's just dirt and grime. I'm concerned there are bits that may need lubricating, and others (friction brakes, leg clamps) that absolutely must NOT be?" CreationDate="2010-08-25T12:43:01.527" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="2931" PostId="2805" Score="2" Text="Any technological edge that the 450D has is going to be pretty minor. Digic 3 and a 12mp sensor are not enough. The larger 8mp sensor of the 1DMkII is more than enough to create extremely high quality images. There are still plenty of technological bonuses to a 1DMkII as well that outpace what is possible on a 450D. The biggest concern really would be the shutter actuation count...however the 1D has a shutter with at least twice the lifetime of a 450D. If I could get a 1DMkII for $700-800, I would do it in a heartbeat. I may not get rid of my 450D, but I'd still get the 1DMkII." CreationDate="2010-08-25T13:45:46.423" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2932" PostId="2805" Text="Very true, I only meant to show that a &quot;pro level&quot; beat an entry level in all aspects." CreationDate="2010-08-25T13:55:13.700" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="2933" PostId="2805" Score="1" Text="I think its a good idea to pass and save for a 5DMkII...not sure I would take a 5DMkI over a 1D Mk II, though." CreationDate="2010-08-25T13:59:51.903" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2934" PostId="2798" Text="Thanks for this answer and your post script, I will definitely give it some consideration. One of my main impediments is space. :/" CreationDate="2010-08-25T14:17:05.800" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="2935" PostId="2781" Text="Aye, I am not sure why it exposed for so long either. I've been experimenting...that seems to be a problem with the 450D...even when it meters with flash (the flash pulses a few times when you hold the shutter half-down), it STILL exposes for a lengthy time when the ambient lighting is lower. I'm not talking dark...just lower...think in a room with closed blinds on a cloudy day..." CreationDate="2010-08-25T14:25:50.197" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2936" PostId="2737" Text="Wow, great test and example - one caveat: if you wanted to show that prints above approx 360ppi are not as good as prints at 600ppi, shouldn't you have printed the lowres at 360ppi instead of 240ppi?" CreationDate="2010-08-25T15:06:37.273" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="2937" PostId="2737" Text="A resolution of 240ppi (288ppi for Epson) is a very common default resolution for many tools, like Aperture and Lightroom, etc. The other common resolution is 300ppi (360ppi for Epson). I am working on another test that covers whether printing a sharpened image of exactly the correct size for the print PPI affects the ultimate print quality, and I'll be using 240ppi, 300ppi, and 600ppi for that test. I don't have an Epson printer, so 360ppi is not an option for any of these tests, however it should be very similar to 300ppi." CreationDate="2010-08-25T15:24:02.453" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2938" PostId="2737" Text="Regarding 240 vs. 300, 240 is the default for Lightroom, and I just used that as my &quot;baseline&quot; test. Upping to 300 is not likely to produce that much of an improvement, as it is still 50% of the printers native 600ppi resolution, and still going to result in pixelation. The same would go for 288/360 vs 720 with an Epson printer." CreationDate="2010-08-25T15:30:17.020" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2940" PostId="2803" Score="5" Text="Simon, I think you need to tell us a bit more about your shooting style and your expectations. If you shoot sport events and own a good telephoto lens and find your existing photos being too often out of focus then 1D mk2 seems like a worthy upgrade but it all depends on personal preferences and needs. For example for me it is simply too bulky and I would miss many pictures as the camera would be left at home more often then not" CreationDate="2010-08-25T15:55:43.653" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="2941" PostId="2805" Text="@jrista ...if you can find anywhere that has stock of the 5D Mk II (Probably just a coincidence that there are rumours about a new model from Canon to be announced tomorrow though)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T16:28:45.630" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="2942" PostId="2801" Text="The question reads like two questions but I think could be asked more succinctly with something like: &quot;What are the different sensor sizes used by Canon and Nikon?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-25T16:41:59.243" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2943" PostId="2792" Text="I glad to hear you agree it is a bit over-done ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T16:45:59.343" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2944" PostId="2810" Text="I removed the 'digital-vs-film' tag as this isn't really a comparison of the two." CreationDate="2010-08-25T16:51:01.707" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2945" PostId="2805" Text="I've heard rumors about a 5DMkIII for a while...its what I've been waiting for myself...but I didn't realize there was one about it being announced tomorrow... :o" CreationDate="2010-08-25T17:12:38.927" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2946" PostId="2798" Text="@BBischof that's one of the things I mean. A develop/scan process means you don't need a whole room; just a small shelf for bottles + a scanner. (Might still be too much space for you, but it's less than most people's first instinct.)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T17:16:08.500" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2947" PostId="2814" Score="2" Text="Neil - it might help if you made the question title a little more specific to the contents. &quot;Starter for 10&quot; doesn't cross the Atlantic well (let alone to other languages)." CreationDate="2010-08-25T17:20:35.650" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2948" PostId="2803" Score="2" Text="I think kristof nails it. This question is tough to answer without knowing what you shoot. Also consider that the 450 is a tiny camera compared to the 1D2. If you're use to the size and weight of the 450, even with grip, you might be in for a shock." CreationDate="2010-08-25T17:34:26.720" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2949" PostId="2807" Text="The 7D is faster, but also has a killer AF system. The 5D2's af performance is quite a bit dated.&#xA;&#xA;There are plenty of 5D2 v 7D threads out there. I went with the 5D2 because I shoot wide." CreationDate="2010-08-25T17:35:46.767" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="2950" PostId="2702" Text="You get more &quot;accuracy&quot; within a narrow gamut, as the colours which are in-gamut are closer together. You're making a trade, hence you need to be sure you want to.&#xA;&#xA;Adobe RGB (1998) is with us in my view mostly for historic reasons. ProPhoto is a good match for many cameras and is supported by ACR. My recommendation would be to only switch to ProPhoto if you're seeing important out of gamut warnings on sRGB, and even then you'll need to map those colours back for output. &#xA;&#xA;None of this is particularly helpful for people with only a &quot;vague idea&quot; of Colour Management though." CreationDate="2010-08-25T18:11:01.517" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="2951" PostId="2690" Score="1" Text="@Henry - Just to clarify the apparent error here; the example changed from an initial 40ish feet to the current 20ish after this answer was written.  It was correct at the time. (And I'll correct it now, since BillN might not have noticed the change)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T18:18:04.860" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2952" PostId="2822" Text="Thanks for the clarification. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T18:28:57.950" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2953" PostId="2256" Text="Hmm, that I don't know. Certainly friction things should not be lubed (I learned this the hard way). I would be surprised if anything on a tripod needs lube, but I'm not terribly confident. You could keep a sample of the grime and have someone run it through a mass spectrometer to see if there are hydrocarbons in it. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-25T19:39:36.290" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="2954" PostId="2807" Text="Yes. I think the point in my head at the time was that the two cameras are very different, and it'd be a good idea to work out what you want from your next camera first." CreationDate="2010-08-25T20:50:49.410" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="2955" PostId="2820" Text="Absolutely!  I don't plan to go computing this all the time. My original reason for asking was for shopping for lights.  I wanted to see some tables that show what power setting on a given light would be needed for a given aperture and subject distance.  This discussion helped tremendously." CreationDate="2010-08-25T21:25:10.550" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="2956" PostId="2830" Score="2" Text="Wow.  I get the feeling that you've done this before." CreationDate="2010-08-25T23:59:16.157" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="2958" PostId="627" Score="2" Text="Hundreds of thousands?" CreationDate="2010-08-26T00:50:15.483" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="2959" PostId="2826" Score="1" Text="Please see this thread for detailed information on generating quality prints: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:13:54.907" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2960" PostId="2825" Text="The nice thing about this tool is it lets you mass adjust by offsets...thats really handy. Compared to other tools, which can bulk &quot;set&quot; a datetime, but not adjust by an offset. If your camera regularly shifts time stamps by 7 hours, for example, this tool would be able to fix all timestamps in one fell swoop!" CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:28:04.003" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2961" PostId="2790" Score="1" Text="Those photographs have the look of an HDR image, to me anyway." CreationDate="2010-08-26T01:51:19.920" UserId="522" />
  <row Id="2962" PostId="2830" Score="2" Text="@mmr - a bit. I really should emphasise the above is pretty worst-case scenario, because the usual scenario doesn't need any special preparation except &quot;be prepared to be a little bored!&quot; Even the two times I've been caught up in crowd-control actions, they were more anti-climactic than anything. Like I said, the vast majority of protests are peaceful events. For the most part, even the clash-with-police make-the-news protests tend to be mostly peaceful at the time; two dozen trouble-makers and two thousand peaceful marchers." CreationDate="2010-08-26T02:57:01.687" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2963" PostId="2058" Score="1" Text="Must admit. That's pretty funny." CreationDate="2010-08-26T03:38:48.567" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="2964" PostId="2417" Text="That is so awesome! So much so I've asked a specific question about whether photoshop has any sort of equivalent: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2834/does-photoshop-have-an-equivalent-to-gimps-color-to-alpha" CreationDate="2010-08-26T04:38:08.610" UserId="978" />
  <row Id="2965" PostId="2810" Text="The answers could probably be better if you're looking for specific film and stated which one." CreationDate="2010-08-26T07:45:21.673" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="2966" PostId="2835" Score="1" Text="From what I experienced Select Color Range would make a hard selection.  e.g. in Gimp's plugin, if there is a green tinted patch, and I'm removing grey, the grey factor of the green is converted to transparency. Select Color Range would likely completely non-select the green transparent tint." CreationDate="2010-08-26T11:28:03.310" UserId="978" />
  <row Id="2967" PostId="2837" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1339/should-i-buy-an-original-canon-battery-or-is-a-generic-brand-ok" CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:19:47.603" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2968" PostId="2803" Text="I mainly shoot landscape and nature, with a bit of motor sport too (oh and the kids of course). I don't *need* to upgrade but what can I say? I'm a gear head... :)" CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:25:37.670" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="2969" PostId="2805" Text="Looks like the 60D was announced today: http://www.canon.co.uk/About_Us/Press_Centre/Press_Releases/Consumer_News/Cameras_Accessories/EOS_60D_Press_Release.aspx" CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:29:28.097" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="2970" PostId="2819" Text="Thanks for the answer, I'll check the links. I do not have auto-tracking. I know that it would improve the pictures but currently I have no money for it." CreationDate="2010-08-26T12:40:40.393" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="2971" PostId="2810" Text="@Karel Oh right that's a fair point.  I have practically zero experience of film photography, so I couldn't actually say. :S" CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:39:22.980" UserId="1194" />
  <row Id="2972" PostId="2837" Text="Thanks Guffa. More specifically my question isn't whether I _should_ use an official battery, but more whether I _could_ use a cheap one." CreationDate="2010-08-26T13:46:11.220" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="2973" PostId="2835" Text="I've used this tool many times...it makes a &quot;soft&quot; selection, or in more specific terms, it generates a grayscale &quot;quick mask&quot; channel that is used to generate the mask. If you need a demonstration, I can provide one, but &quot;Select Color Range&quot; is basically your &quot;Color to Alpha&quot; feature, with the extra requirement that you hit the delete key to actually make the color &quot;alpha&quot;. As for the &quot;gray factor&quot;, you do have slight problems with that, due to gray containing R, G, and B levels. Use of a proper complementary chroma key eliminates that, but doing what you need is still possible with white bg." CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:26:28.560" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2974" PostId="2819" Text="If you don't have tracking, then I would use a higher ISO. The noise is manageable in post-processing, either through stacking, or just basic noise reduction tools. Blurring, however, is something you can't eliminate. Most of my astrophotography is at ISO800 or ISO1600, and if I had a better camera like the 5DMkII, I would use ISO3200. Lightroom 3 is pretty good at removing chroma noise, and does an excellent job at removing luminance noise. " CreationDate="2010-08-26T15:53:37.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2975" PostId="2831" Score="1" Text="Quick note...200 PPI (note, DPI and PPI are not interchangeable terms, and PPI is what Eruditass is talking about here) is a fairly low resolution. A 10x15 inch print would need to be viewed at a distance of about 17-18&quot; to appear appropriately clear at a PPI of 200. A PPI of 240 would be viewable at 14 inches, and a PPI of 300 would be viewable at about 10 inches. I would avoid using a PPI of 200 unless the image will be viewed by standing a couple feet away, otherwise I would use 240 or 300 for prints viewed within a foot. " CreationDate="2010-08-26T16:27:24.053" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2976" PostId="2079" Score="1" Text="@chuqui - great shots. Nice to see good photo-realistic use of HDR." CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:05:40.660" UserId="761" />
  <row Id="2977" PostId="184" Text="But see the latest Star Trek movie on how to abuse them.." CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:07:41.360" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="2978" PostId="2851" Text="Excellent links!" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:17:27.197" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2979" PostId="2831" Score="1" Text="Thanks, updated. Your thesis on the other question was quite informative!" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:22:11.640" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="2980" PostId="2830" Text="Since it seemed to be appropriate to the subject matter, I've made this answer 'community wiki'. Positive contributions welcome!" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:36:46.007" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2982" PostId="2848" Text="@alastairs - after you posted this, I thought it would be a good idea to make my answer a community wiki so that anyone could add good links (like this one). Please feel free!" CreationDate="2010-08-26T17:44:23.153" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="2983" PostId="2825" Text="@jrista My two answers both let you adjust by offset" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:08:35.510" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="2984" PostId="2840" Text="That's a good process...but if you're disciplined enough to go to the trouble of starting up the GPS and taking a picture of the GPS, seems like just setting the time on the camera in the first place would solve the problem :)" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:09:49.690" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="2985" PostId="2839" Text="Right on with the little known...I've never heard of it." CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:10:23.823" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="2986" PostId="2825" Text="@davr: I saw your EXIF Date Changer tool one. The upvote on it is mine. ;) That tool basically offers the same benefit. I guess the Picasa one works that way too...however their approach is really convoluted and confusing..I don't think most people would understand how to use the &quot;adjust by&quot; option." CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:12:56.820" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2987" PostId="2805" Text="It also looks like a fantastic 8-15mm f/4 ZOOM FISHEYE lens was released! :o That is really intriguing! There were also apparently updates to the 300mm and 400mm f/2.8 L lenses, and 500mmm &amp; 600mm f/4 L lenses. Lots of interesting stuff today. http://www.canon.co.uk/About_Us/Press_Centre/Press_Releases/Consumer_News/index.aspx" CreationDate="2010-08-26T18:43:09.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2988" PostId="2831" Score="1" Text="Guys, rkrass asked about 10x15 centimeters, not inches:)  Divide the number of pixels per 2.54." CreationDate="2010-08-26T19:47:44.693" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="2989" PostId="2841" Score="1" Text="Yep, don't care too much about the features.  They are all good cameras.  Try them and see how you feel about them." CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:04:34.957" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="2990" PostId="2705" Text="Do you have a 'control' set, with the same exposure time and post-processing techniques, but with long exposure noise reduction turned off?" CreationDate="2010-08-26T20:54:27.790" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="2991" PostId="2837" Score="1" Text="@matt burns: Yes, I just wanted to link to the &quot;should&quot; discussion, so that it didn't have to be repeated here. :)" CreationDate="2010-08-26T23:00:09.873" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="2992" PostId="2857" Text="Thanks for the link. They seem to have everything there...lots of Canon lenses, including hte MP-E 65mm Macro (I've never seen that anywhere.) It doesn't seem to stock the Museo or Breathing Color papers, but it does have Hahnemuhle and Ilford stuff. I generally prefer Hahnemuhle anyway." CreationDate="2010-08-26T23:43:35.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2993" PostId="2858" Text="Thanks for the link. They seem to have a couple of the Museo papers. Guess that stuff is pretty rare. Here in Colorado we seem to be a little gimped when it comes to good digital photography outlets...there just isn't a very good selection of materials. Which is odd, since we are such a hot spot for nature and landscape photography..." CreationDate="2010-08-26T23:49:27.210" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2994" PostId="2857" Text="Yeah, I usually find a lot of what I want there and they're pretty convenient for me (maybe too convenient). Though, in my experience, they can be a little more expensive, but they're often the only source I have for some things." CreationDate="2010-08-27T00:02:11.553" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="2995" PostId="2831" Text="It didn't say centimeters at first..." CreationDate="2010-08-27T01:09:30.080" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2996" PostId="2860" Text="I do know that...honestly, the original question was really about local stores, not online stores. I was wondering if there was some known chain of art or photography supply stores that stocked these papers, so I could just run down to one and pick stuff up as needed, rather than having to order and wait. Guess that wasn't very clear." CreationDate="2010-08-27T01:52:00.027" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2997" PostId="2863" Score="8" Text="This comes off as highly subjective. I would recommend editing, tone down the title, with wording more along the lines of &quot;I need to do portfolio work [&lt;-- explain what that is], and need the best camera for the job. What is the recommended camera for such work?&quot; " CreationDate="2010-08-27T06:03:52.927" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="2998" PostId="2863" Score="1" Text="I've yet to be convinced that this isn't simply trolling. Hopefully the questioner will prove me wrong and rephrase the question. But multiple exclamation marks are a bad sign." CreationDate="2010-08-27T06:44:34.790" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="2999" PostId="2863" Score="1" Text="@jrista is right (isn't that always the case though?). This question is poorly worded; however I suspect that there is a language barier at play, and would like to get some clarification prior to blanket closing/downvoting the question into oblivion." CreationDate="2010-08-27T07:33:27.270" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3000" PostId="2863" Text="I've edited the question." CreationDate="2010-08-27T07:42:31.157" UserId="1238" />
  <row Id="3001" PostId="2863" Text="Thanks for clarifying, and apologies for doubting the intent. " CreationDate="2010-08-27T08:05:42.467" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="3002" PostId="2705" Text="@Evan - good question, just it's kinda hard to find any motivation to work on it when the speculative answers rule." CreationDate="2010-08-27T08:24:41.947" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3003" PostId="2865" Score="1" Text="I suggest to replace &quot;pure&quot; with &quot;stills&quot; and &quot;film&quot; with &quot;movies&quot; :) Otherwise it's fairly hard to understand the question. I'm not a native speaker either, so correct me if you know better terms." CreationDate="2010-08-27T08:51:49.753" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3004" PostId="2865" Text="Your absolutely right. Made some clarifying changes." CreationDate="2010-08-27T09:00:34.400" UserId="1023" />
  <row Id="3005" PostId="2848" Text="thanks alastairs" CreationDate="2010-08-27T09:33:55.080" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="3006" PostId="2867" Text="+1 Good spot! I went to look there but missed that somehow :)" CreationDate="2010-08-27T09:52:54.263" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="3008" PostId="2864" Text="@Alan - Thanx alot.&#xA;I jus want to do a one time investment,as in if I bought an entry-level camera now then later on I would have to sell it off and then buy a new one..&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:00:54.987" UserId="1238" />
  <row Id="3009" PostId="2866" Score="3" Text="I would agree with the summary +1 , but I would say that D60 is not a straight line replacement to 50D as it really creates a new class in canon offering, some of the features can be considered downgrade compared to 50D (plastic body, continuous shooting). Since the release of 7D xxD class is no longer canon's top offer with APS-C sensor " CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:04:34.963" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="3010" PostId="2866" Text="Agreed, but as Canon no longer sell the 50D, that's what I was referring to." CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:07:16.307" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="3011" PostId="2824" Text="Excellet question - I've had exactly this problem:  I was shooting a wedding, and one camera was adjusted for daylight savings, while the other wasn't.  doh!" CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:09:37.140" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3012" PostId="2840" Text="Seriously:  I have lightroom, I had this problem, and I didn't know about this?  Fail!  ;-s&#xA;Thanks for this tip - my favourite so far from this site!" CreationDate="2010-08-27T10:11:35.033" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3013" PostId="2863" Score="4" Text="I don't feel particuarly qualified to answer, not knowing the Nikon range well enough, but wouldn't D3X vs 1Ds Mk III or D300s vs 5D Mk II be a much fairer set of comparisons?" CreationDate="2010-08-27T11:01:53.577" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="3014" PostId="2703" Text="I used them the other week to get 3 poster size prints. They were really fast (arrived the next day!) and  the quality was exceptional." CreationDate="2010-08-27T12:54:00.170" UserId="697" />
  <row Id="3015" PostId="2862" Text="Actually the D90 does have movie mode - 'only' 720p, but it does the job.  When it comes to lenses, there are good cheap primes for both brands and the 'good' lenses cost lots of money, so either way you'll end up spending similar money." CreationDate="2010-08-27T13:15:19.230" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="3016" PostId="2866" Text="There are bound to be some 50D bargains to be had once the 60D is available, it might me worth hanging on a little while to see." CreationDate="2010-08-27T16:04:42.363" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="3017" PostId="302" Score="1" Text="Integration with Picasa is super.  It makes super easy uploading photos.  You have 1 gig free." CreationDate="2010-08-27T17:18:05.897" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="3018" PostId="2870" Text="Good point about it being tricky to use. The MP-E has an astonishingly small depth of field, and when you magnify beyond 1x, it can be very difficult to get DOF in the right place. Many of the MP-E pros actually take multiple shots with focus at different depths, and &quot;stack&quot; the shots in post processing to get a useful depth of field. So, tricky...yes, very tricky. " CreationDate="2010-08-27T20:09:17.557" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3019" PostId="2870" Text="Thanks Petteri and jrista, I think these last two comments have help make my mind up. My wife has only started taking photography serious in the last few months.&#xA;I think I will go for the 100 without IS as a gift. Not just because it is cheaper, honest!&#xA;Thanks also to Alan,Chills, Karel and Hamish for your extremely useful comments  Dennis" CreationDate="2010-08-27T21:17:18.797" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="3020" PostId="2863" Score="1" Text="@Pavitar: Thanks for cleaning up the title and clarifying the question. Looks like your getting some good answers now. :) Now that I understand better what was being asked, I've made some edits to try and make the question clearer. If I have stated anything incorrectly, Pavitar, let me know, and I'll try to correct it." CreationDate="2010-08-27T21:19:41.530" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3021" PostId="2763" Score="2" Text="You've been a good apprentice, young Alan. You have mastered the art of Answer Crafting, beyond that of my wildest expectations. I now graduate you to the rank of: &quot;Master&quot;!" CreationDate="2010-08-27T21:45:54.723" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3022" PostId="2599" Text="Since this still has not gotten any useful answers, could I ask you to clarify it more? You mentioned color calibration of every device in your workflow, but then stated in a comment to my first answer that you were more interested in color checking than calibration. What exactly are you looking for? Do you need to calibrate every device and verify color accuracy of the entire workflow from every device?" CreationDate="2010-08-27T21:49:11.213" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3024" PostId="2860" Score="1" Text="every reasonably size metro area probably has a camera shop that caters to the local pros, but they're rarely chains, so you have to find them. That'd be your best shot for finding a supply like that. It might take some exploring; I'd say the easiest way to get a list of candidates is to look for the shops that sell medium format gear. They'd be likely ones to also carry the higher end papers and other pro-oriented products. If not, they'll likely know who does... &#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-27T23:00:52.763" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="3025" PostId="2859" Text="Unfortunately, the link didn't work. What page did you mean to link to?" CreationDate="2010-08-28T03:54:17.280" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3026" PostId="2862" Text="@newfie_coder thanks for the correction, regarding prime lenses, see: http://gizmodo.com/5150061/nikons-new-dx-35mm-f18-prime-the-first-lens-you-should-buy-for-any-dx-nikon-dslr , there is no equivalent lens in the canon lineup (the 35mm is pretty expensive). Additionally with the Nikons you get access to all the old classic F-mount lenses.  " CreationDate="2010-08-28T10:45:58.100" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="3027" PostId="2859" Text="Google books. I wasn't sure if the link would work or not, hence the &quot;try&quot; comment. Anwyays, if you go to the site and do a search for &quot;d3000 rangefinder manual&quot; you may hit the same result as I did." CreationDate="2010-08-28T13:34:46.970" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3028" PostId="2859" Text="Also, it may depend on your location. Google shoves you off to different sites based on country, so that may have played some havoc if you're not in Canada." CreationDate="2010-08-28T13:35:44.813" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3029" PostId="2876" Score="2" Text="Is it fair to assume you are looking at a digital slr?" CreationDate="2010-08-28T16:35:13.373" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3030" PostId="2863" Text="Most people seem to prefer the D3s for weddings than the D3x." CreationDate="2010-08-28T17:27:17.397" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="3031" PostId="2859" Text="Ah. Well, I believe you that the book said that - I've messed around in the menus for a while trying to find a workaround.&#xA;&#xA;I guess if I'm really having trouble focusing, I can just temporarily switch to A mode in order to get the rangefinder. I just wish I could manually tell the camera what aperture I'm using so it would meter for me." CreationDate="2010-08-28T19:29:02.530" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3032" PostId="2879" Score="2" Text="Just something to mention about renting. If there is a Best Buy near you, they have a 14-day(sometimes 30, but check to be sure) no questions money back guarantee on their cameras. I purchased a Rebel-Xs there, played with it, took it on vacation, took 3000 shots, decided I liked it, then took it back. A month later I bought an Xsi online. I felt bad so I bought some accessories from BB, but the point is, it was a free way to really evaluate what it would be like to own that camera." CreationDate="2010-08-28T21:38:22.007" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3033" PostId="2877" Text="Thanks for the advice.  We ended up going with a Cannon Rebel." CreationDate="2010-08-28T22:51:56.113" UserId="1092" />
  <row Id="3034" PostId="2877" Score="1" Text="Just don't blow things up with that Cannon of yours." CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:28:04.163" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3035" PostId="2888" Score="3" Text="Cool camera, the only guy on the site that I know of that might be able to help is Matt Smillie, he's a huge film buff. That baby is so old, though, that even he may not be able to help you." CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:33:45.363" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3036" PostId="2894" Text="John, not talking about the focal length but the lens diameter itself. Take a look at these two lenses. The second one is a lot larger.  http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/images1/50-18-af-KEN_9986.jpg (∅52mm) and http://www.digidirect.com.au/plugins/Cart/ProductImages/2324_sigma_50mm_f1.4_ex_dg_hsm.jpg (∅72mm)" CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:41:58.190" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="3037" PostId="2892" Text="The funny thing is that I've seen 50mm F1.4 ∅52mm and 50mm F1.8 ∅72mm. I thought that a wider lens would give me more sharpness or something. So it doesn't make any difference if I shoot using the same aperture for both lenses?" CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:44:32.163" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="3038" PostId="2893" Text="I love pictures with large apertures. I have a 35mm F1.8 and almost never use a smaller aperture then 1.8. But now I'm going to a 50mm F1.4 and must chose between the ∅52mm and the ∅72mm. If there are no differences besides the aperture, and if both have the same aperture (1.4), then I'll go for the cheaper one." CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:46:34.903" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="3039" PostId="2894" Text="I must say I got a little disappointed, I was really sure that a bigger diameter would give me a better image. Anyway, they in fact have the same aperture (F1.4) and hence I'll chose the cheaper." CreationDate="2010-08-29T01:51:29.707" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="3040" PostId="2892" Score="2" Text="No, the lens diameter is largely just a side effect of the design." CreationDate="2010-08-29T02:15:07.157" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3041" PostId="2893" Score="2" Text="The lens diameter probably isn't the best spec to be comparing, it is probably only listed to indicate what size filters you would use. There could be other reasons for the larger size (USM or IS) that would make a big difference in the image quality and usability." CreationDate="2010-08-29T02:18:23.060" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3042" PostId="2894" Text="The first is a f/1.8" CreationDate="2010-08-29T02:20:19.453" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3043" PostId="2893" Score="2" Text="Lens diameter is only casually related to aperture; companies will often design to a standard diameter (or a small number of them) across their line.  E.g., Nikon tends to prefer 52mm when possible, then jumps to 62mm.  Canon leans towards 55mm." CreationDate="2010-08-29T02:29:41.947" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3044" PostId="2894" Text="Lens diameter doesn't correlate well to maximum aperture in practice.  Nikon has a few fast lenses at 52mm, and a few slower ones.  Leica and other RF lenses tend to have narrow diameters, but aren't typically any slower (if anything, they're faster)." CreationDate="2010-08-29T02:32:02.127" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3045" PostId="2894" Text="@Paulo - I edited afterwards when I realized what you meant.&#xA;@matt - I didn't say it meant larger aperture, just that it allows for it." CreationDate="2010-08-29T02:39:23.057" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3046" PostId="2888" Score="1" Text="Even if you can't find any film for it, thats a great shelf piece. Looks like its in pretty good condition, and a nice thing to show off. ;)" CreationDate="2010-08-29T03:33:02.177" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3047" PostId="2893" Text="Technically a 50mm f/1.4 will have a ~35.7mm aperture regardless of lens diameter. It's focal length / f-stop value after all." CreationDate="2010-08-29T06:24:17.587" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3048" PostId="2885" Text="Also, dA isn't focused solely on photography. A vast amount of it is creative art." CreationDate="2010-08-29T06:26:03.760" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3049" PostId="2866" Text="I agree the 60D is not a straight 50D replacement - there are a number of features that are retrograde compared to the 50D. I think Canon think of it as a 'realignment' of their range, as the 50D with no video always looked a bit out of place between the 550D and 7D. I upgraded my 350D to a 50D a couple of months ago, and having seen the 60D specs am more than happy with that decision - it's £500 cheaper for a start, which I would rather spend on a lens." CreationDate="2010-08-29T08:04:21.713" UserId="425" />
  <row Id="3050" PostId="2894" Text="@John I know what you said, I just think it's misleading. Given two actual lenses of similar focal lengths, there's essentially no reason to think that the one of larger thread diameter might have a larger aperture.  You'd be wrong more often than you'd be right, particularly when you start comparing across brands." CreationDate="2010-08-29T09:27:48.587" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3051" PostId="2894" Text="@matt Well, in this case it does, but I'll edit the answer to clarify." CreationDate="2010-08-29T13:33:26.153" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3052" PostId="2885" Text="There is creative art there, however Photography is certainly one of their largest categories, if not the largest category." CreationDate="2010-08-29T16:16:50.533" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3053" PostId="2894" Text="@matt: Technically speaking, there is nothing that prevents a lens with a smaller diameter from having a wider maximum aperture, however there *are* technical difficulties in achieving a wider max with a smaller lens diameter. Even across brands, much of the time, wider maximum apertures tend to result in wider lens diameters as well. It results in a diaphragm that is easier to make and easier to calibrate over one that is super tiny. I don't think that the filter thread size has anything to do with it, however filter thread size is a rough indicator of the size of the outer lens element." CreationDate="2010-08-29T16:24:57.287" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3054" PostId="2894" Text="@john Is the difference in this case **really** because of the aperture? I don't see how it can be. Examples: Nikon's AF-D 50mm f/1.4 has a 52mm thread, the new AF-S version has 58mm. Their AI 50mm f/1.2 has a 52mm thread.  All the same (or better) aperture, and all a lot smaller than 72mm. That's why I think it's misleading to say the Sigma's larger diameter &quot;allows&quot; a larger aperture, because the same (or better) aperture isn't *disallowed* by smaller diameters. It's not advice anyone can apply in practice. @jrista - similar comments; it's just not usable advice." CreationDate="2010-08-29T19:37:45.820" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3055" PostId="2907" Score="1" Text="Might want to take a look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/96/best-35mm-scanner" CreationDate="2010-08-29T20:16:18.213" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3056" PostId="2761" Text="I've done two stills projects using a tethered camera, and it is much better to preview and arrange stuff on the big screen, especially when working together with another person." CreationDate="2010-08-29T21:27:18.390" UserId="221" />
  <row Id="3057" PostId="2894" Text="@matt I'm confused, where in my post did I state that the diameter of the lens was because of the aperture? I did not. I simply stated that a greater diameter may allow for it, not that it did. I even adjusted my answer to make that even more clear. Frankly, I think you're nitpicking. If there is something flat out wrong in my post, which I think is the most complete answer here, then edit it." CreationDate="2010-08-29T22:22:06.010" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3058" PostId="2908" Score="1" Text="I myself have learnt so much in only the two weeks of taking photos with my DSLR. Patience and trial and error is a big part of learning to be a great *anything*. Musician, photographer, artist..." CreationDate="2010-08-29T22:23:18.587" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3059" PostId="2915" Score="4" Text="Good explanation.  I'm thinking it's probably worth pointing out explicitly to the OP that a peak in the histogram can't actually be off the top of the chart.  Off to the right for blown highlights, or off to the left for clipped shadows, sure, but a peak in the middle cannot be &quot;off the chart&quot;.  Just further reassurance that it doesn't sound like s/he has lost any data from these particular images." CreationDate="2010-08-29T22:54:11.520" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="3060" PostId="2915" Text="Thanks, in the particular image, the big peak was mostly centralized. I am going to edit my question with the pic and the histogram." CreationDate="2010-08-29T22:54:22.147" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3061" PostId="2914" Text="I am sorry my question was unclear before about the location of the fall-out. I have edited the question in an attempt to make it more clear." CreationDate="2010-08-29T23:08:02.273" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3062" PostId="2915" Score="6" Text="@BBishof: Technically speaking, a histogram stretches infinitely vertically, so as Conor stated, you really can't be &quot;off the chart&quot; from a line height perspective. You can be &quot;blown&quot;, which means your highlights cover tones beyond the right edge of the histogram, or &quot;blocked&quot;, which means your shades and blacks are shifted beyond the left edge of the histogram. Depending on how many pixels are in an image, any particular part of the histogram may reach a hight beyond what is normally represented, but that doesn't mean anything specifically. In your histogram, you have a high-key image." CreationDate="2010-08-30T00:47:16.090" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3063" PostId="2916" Score="1" Text="+1 I agree with everything except the bit about theory. While I do not think it is the fundamental underpinning of photography, understanding the theory of light, color, and cameras DOES help. It should never be a foreground thing, but having that knowledge gives your brain more to work from when you encounter those times *&quot;when you have to react to the moment and be able to adjust quickly for it&quot;.* A good part of skill **is** having an understanding of what you are doing...and thats theory. " CreationDate="2010-08-30T00:54:22.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3064" PostId="2916" Score="2" Text="Regarding hypertheoretical programmer types, I've met them too. The reason they can't program is they are like absent-minded scientists...they couldn't care less if a program worked...their passion IS the theory, and thats what they care about. Those types should generally be in fringe comp-sci thinktanks, designing new ways to search and sort, not your average programming job. Same goes for the hypertheoretical photographic types...they should be designing fantastic new lenses, not out snapping photos. ;P" CreationDate="2010-08-30T00:57:11.713" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3065" PostId="2919" Score="2" Text="dude, you're a frigging genius, thanks! Gimme some time to digest all this info and I'll be back. thanks for a great answer." CreationDate="2010-08-30T01:30:35.513" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3066" PostId="2916" Text="@jrista That's a good point on the theory. I guess I let my perception of those too caught up in it colour my opinion on it. I have a friend that spends too much time examining LP/mm, pixel peeping, and other such things instead of just putting the camera to his eye. He's a perfectionist, though, and while his shots are technically very well done, they're often dull." CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:00:22.650" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3067" PostId="2919" Text="+1 for the scientist. There's a few rule of thumbs kicking around for dSLRs, but I think the changing face of sensors is making it hard for them to stick." CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:06:19.960" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3068" PostId="2915" Text="Thanks for the additional help! I guess in this case, it wasn't a problem that my histogram looked as it did." CreationDate="2010-08-30T02:18:34.317" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3069" PostId="2894" Text="@John done.  And if we're being frank it is wrong.  Perhaps not in an absolute sense, but it's approximately as correct as saying that  larger diameter lenses can hold more whisky than those with smaller diameters.  Almost unrefutably true, and of absolutely no use to anyone." CreationDate="2010-08-30T03:16:18.780" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3070" PostId="2894" Text="@matt: Good point, well made. " CreationDate="2010-08-30T03:17:51.747" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3071" PostId="2894" Text="@matt Alright, I leave it alone, though I don't think I said what you claimed I said and you hammered on mine when the two preceding posts said exactly the same thing. The essential point of my post is what goes into optical quality of a lens, that's the vast bulk of it anyways, and I think we all agree that the diameter of the front element isn't relevant to that." CreationDate="2010-08-30T03:36:21.857" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3072" PostId="2840" Text="My DSLR's clock drift a lot. Timezone changes two times a year. So the in-camera clocks are always minutes or hours off. And I want 1 second position accuracy.&#xA;&#xA;This hastle would be much more easier if for example Lightroom could always set the camera clock to correct time when connected to camera." CreationDate="2010-08-30T04:16:50.807" UserId="855" />
  <row Id="3073" PostId="2919" Text="@jrista - &quot;large-format film has the tendency to resolve FAR more detail than 35mm or digital sensors&quot; - when comparing, say, Velvia 50 in 35mm and 6x9 formats, the resolved line pairs per millimeter is still the same, just there are many more line pairs on the the 6x9 frame. When looking at prints of the same size, 6x9 has more detail, but the underlying resolution is the same. Same goes for digital, if both cropped sensor and medium format sensor have the same pixel density, their theoretical maximum resolution is the same (although more variables influence it)." CreationDate="2010-08-30T06:39:37.987" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3074" PostId="2919" Text="I changed it from &quot;resolve&quot; to &quot;capture&quot;, as the key point was their *diffraction limit* is considerably higher, around f/22. Resolution wasn't really the key point. Which brings up an interesting point about digital sensors...sensors of different sizes with the same pixel size and density will have the same diffraction limit. If we took, say, the new D60, an 18mp APS-C sensor, it gets diffraction limited at the astonishingly low aperture of f/6.8. A full-frame sensor with the same pixel size/density would be limited at the same aperture, which beggs the question...why such high density? ;-)" CreationDate="2010-08-30T06:53:13.633" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3075" PostId="2919" Text="Sorry for the nitpicking. Well, there is a camera company who understands the need for better pixels rather than just more pixels ;-)" CreationDate="2010-08-30T07:28:01.270" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3076" PostId="2831" Text="@Eruditass: your units don't add up (or is it just me?). Inch*Inch*pix/Inch = Inch*Pixel and not pixels" CreationDate="2010-08-30T08:30:01.743" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="3077" PostId="2898" Text="Thanks for your input. I think I will go for the APo one." CreationDate="2010-08-30T12:08:03.653" UserId="1067" />
  <row Id="3078" PostId="2908" Text="+1 for &quot;golden hour&quot;. IMHO for a beginner this is the best time for the first photos. You get great photos, even with little experience and that sevred as a great confidence booster for me." CreationDate="2010-08-30T12:19:08.370" UserId="1067" />
  <row Id="3079" PostId="2874" Text="So that they can find you easily? lol." CreationDate="2010-08-30T13:10:36.703" UserId="1067" />
  <row Id="3080" PostId="2831" Text="@Shaihi, the by in the 10 in *by* 10 in is not a multiplication, it is a logical separator that stays in place through the end.  So think of it as two separate conversions, one for each dimension:&#xA;&#xA;10 in * 250 pixels / inch = 2500 pixels. " CreationDate="2010-08-30T13:11:39.787" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3081" PostId="2922" Text="Thank you for this detail analysis, of my particular picture." CreationDate="2010-08-30T13:59:27.140" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3082" PostId="2599" Text="I simply want tobe sure that the scene I have in the output device is as far as possible the same I was looking at when making the shots .. so simple, so easy :) ICC profiles is a part of the job, as color checking is, white balancing and so on ... I'm simply asking for suggestions about &quot;true-scene-reproduction&quot; techniques, hardware and tools involved." CreationDate="2010-08-30T14:21:54.237" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="3083" PostId="2920" Text="&quot;Higher-quality lenses will already be starting to see the affects of diffraction by f/8, especially on high-resolution camera sensors.&quot; - diffraction limit is not the property of lens." CreationDate="2010-08-30T14:40:46.333" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3084" PostId="2919" Text="I'm all for larger, but more closely spaced, photosites myself. If they can increase both density and size, with a moderate pixel count between 20 and 30mp, I think that would be ideal. Modern sensors still have pretty large gaps between photosites, which is somewhat offset by microlenses, but not entirely." CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:08:58.150" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3085" PostId="2928" Text="This should really be a community wiki question." CreationDate="2010-08-30T15:19:41.740" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="3086" PostId="2915" Score="2" Text="Based on your shot, it looks quite under exposed. The fact that the bulk of your tones are bunched up in one fairly narrow spike is also an indication of why your image appears to have such low contrast. I would expect that there be a spike around the highlights area, as about 3/4 of the scene is &quot;white&quot;, but I would also expect that other tones would be more exposed." CreationDate="2010-08-30T17:11:47.820" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3087" PostId="2928" Text="This is worded pretty broadly; do you have any specific type of photography in mind?  " CreationDate="2010-08-30T17:35:37.680" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3088" PostId="2928" Text="@jfklein13 - deliberately so, I'm hoping this will be useful for all types of photographers..." CreationDate="2010-08-30T18:06:08.017" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="3089" PostId="2907" Score="1" Text="Yeah - I saw that, but I want to know a bit more than &quot;buy X scanner because I say it is great&quot;.  What should I be looking for in a scanner for what I want seems a better question, IMHO." CreationDate="2010-08-30T18:27:28.593" UserId="926" />
  <row Id="3090" PostId="2919" Text="@jrista, all else being equal (granted, not always the case), a higher density sensor always capture as much as or more detail than a low density. For example, take two sensors, one limited at f/6.8 and one at f/13.  The f/6.8 limited sensor will capture more detail at all apertures below f/6.8 because it is in the sensor limited region.  Above f6.8, it is still going to capture more detail because it is the airy disk limited region.  Only after f/13 are the sensors equal, and the f/6.8 sensor is never behind." CreationDate="2010-08-30T19:08:47.173" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3091" PostId="2919" Text="The actual story is obviously much more complicated.  Of course, with more space, there is more room for electronics to lower the black read noise (this has more of an effect on the noise-limited region than say photosite density), increase the quality of micro-lenses, etc.  However, only looking at the diffraction limit is misleading, especially when comparing older sensors to newer sensors." CreationDate="2010-08-30T19:15:15.117" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3094" PostId="2919" Score="1" Text="@jrista, diffraction is an optical phenomenon that is linked to the lens and not the sensor.  The physical size of the airy disk that causes the softening is independent of the medium that it is being projected on to.  A higher resolution sensor will capture more softening on a per pixel basis, but the overall image will not be softer, as the absolute physical size of the airy disk being captured will be the same on both sensors." CreationDate="2010-08-30T20:30:16.610" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3095" PostId="2932" Text="This is only remotely related to photography. I think that you should ask this on Superuser instead, where you will find more software-savvy people." CreationDate="2010-08-30T20:36:29.803" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3097" PostId="2919" Text="Here's a good article: &#xA;http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm&#xA;&#xA;Basically, all this talk about diffraction was meant for choosing an aperture, not for comparing sensors (except perhaps to say smaller sensors suck)" CreationDate="2010-08-30T20:55:25.937" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3099" PostId="2920" Text="@Karel, the lower the quality the lens, the higher f-number the &quot;diffraction limit&quot; because the lens-quality will be limiting resolution, not diffraction.  Lens-quality goes up with f-number, which is the opposite of diffraction.  &#xA;&#xA;Picture a graph of f-number (x axis) vs resolution capture (y axis).  There are 3 curves: diffraction limit, lens-quality, and sensor resolution.  Diffraction slopes down, lens-quality slopes up, and sensor resolution is a flat line.  The lowest value of the 3 is your resolution at that capture.  I think I'll draw this when I get home as it may be helpful." CreationDate="2010-08-30T21:13:02.493" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3101" PostId="2932" Text="Obviously I disagree. This only happens when I take pictures with my camera(s). I never encounter this problem outside of images that I have taken and uploaded myself. I will add a meta question regarding software-vs-photography (if there isn't one already). Cheers. Also Skål." CreationDate="2010-08-30T21:48:52.147" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3102" PostId="2932" Text="@Alan: I didn't close this immediately because it's a bit of a grey area, but my opinion is that the question isn't about photography just because the files happen to be a result of photography. It's a little like asking here what to do about my broken toe, because I dropped my camera on it... See this rather similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/881/how-to-get-photographs-off-iphone-4-wirelessly-closed and the meta discussion: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/108/questions-about-devices-which-take-pictures-but-where-the-camera-is-not-the-fir" CreationDate="2010-08-30T22:53:25.197" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3103" PostId="2920" Text="Well, this turned out looking much worse than expected.  These are in no way real values, but give an idea of the relationships.  &#xA;http://imgur.com/9xtyR.png&#xA;&#xA;If we follow the high quality lens, it is sensor limited by the medium and low megapixel sensors at 1 and 2.  In the high density sensor, it is limited by its own lens quality until f6.3, where diffraction creeps in, but has a higher resolution than with any of the other sensors until f8 with the medium-density sensor and f13 with the low density sensor.&#xA;&#xA;On the medium quality lens, it starts off lens-limited on all the sensors.  By f4&#xA;&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-30T23:41:32.793" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3104" PostId="2920" Text="That high quality sensor is diffraction limited at f6.3, while the low quality sensor is not diffraction limited until f/13.  This is more and more visibile with a higher resolution sensors.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-08-30T23:43:06.893" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3106" PostId="2919" Text="As long as you understand my point, which the Cambridge article states in its conclusion and in part 2: diffraction does not make higher density sensors inherently worse and the a higher resolution sensor (say 18mp vs 10mp) will always produce equal or better resolution than the other at the same print sizes and crops, all else equal.  This is not to endorse the megapixel race: it is stupid and other sensor enhancements are more important.  And no jrista, I don't understand why you would not buy an 18mp over say a 12mp, all else equal (including price and other sensor perf:DR/Noise/color/etc)." CreationDate="2010-08-31T01:04:41.737" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3107" PostId="2920" Text="Now to expand on diffraction limiting with regard to megapixels, the medium density sensor does not get diffraction limited until f8. Even though the high-megapixel sensor is diffraction limited around f6.3, it will still capture more detail than the medium-megapixel sensor until f8. This is only with the same-size sensors.  &#xA;&#xA;For those reading the graph: the lens lines all slope up (in reality they are curves generally going up) and the sensor lines are all flat.  " CreationDate="2010-08-31T01:05:58.923" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3108" PostId="2915" Text="Thanks again, hehe. Could you give some recommendations as to fix the issues you present. Just try for higher exposure?" CreationDate="2010-08-31T02:28:04.890" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3109" PostId="2932" Score="2" Text="I'm with you on the iphone4 issue. A more properly worded question might be &quot;Are there camera settings that affect thumbnail orientation?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-31T02:38:00.180" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3113" PostId="2915" Score="1" Text="If you encounter a similar scenario, I would try to find a way to light the scene better. If you have to grab a nearby lamp and rip off the shade to illuminate the scene, I would (I actually do that myself, particularly when trying to photograph insects indoors.) Best to avoid flash with insects (unless you have the right kind or a diffuser.) You could just mess with exposure, however the ultimate end result is most likely to be that you brighten everything, but end up with the same histogram...and same low contrast...only more to the right. Light is your best friend. " CreationDate="2010-08-31T03:42:54.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3114" PostId="2919" Text="I think long conversations like this are best left to StackExchange chat. Makes these threads rather unruly. I would like to continue the discussion, with visual examples if you have any. I think you make an interesting point, but I'm not certain I'm entirely convinced that a new super high density 18mp sensor will always be better than an older lower density 16mp sensor, for example. I'll be logged in here for the next several days: http://chat.meta.stackoverflow.com/rooms/154/photo" CreationDate="2010-08-31T04:10:18.173" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3115" PostId="2915" Text="Not to be redundant, but thanks. I did have a small lamp in action, but it was yellow light and thus looked crappy. " CreationDate="2010-08-31T04:24:53.450" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3116" PostId="2919" Text="Sorry, seems the old photo.se room was closed. This one should work: http://chat.meta.stackoverflow.com/rooms/211/photo-se " CreationDate="2010-08-31T04:34:07.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3117" PostId="2915" Score="1" Text="White balance can be adjusted, so the yellow light (probably incandescent) can be corrected. Digital cameras can do some correction...the &quot;auto&quot; white balance setting should take care of a lot of that. If the camera is insufficient at correcting color casts, post-processing software like Lightroom can usually correct it. The two controls, color temperature and tint, generally cover the whole spectrum. Just use the &quot;neutral balance selector&quot; tool, and click on an area that was a neutral white or gray in reality. Lightroom should then automatically remove any orange cast for you." CreationDate="2010-08-31T04:40:28.190" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3118" PostId="2905" Score="3" Text="Actually, no, when using Nikon lenses on Canon EF mount you do not lose focus to infinity. The mount opening is larger and the flange depth is only 44mm, so an adapter for Nikon lenses (depth: 46.5mm) can fit properly . In fact, a lot of mounts have a larger flange depth so there's room for an adapter, with noted exceptions Leica M and Canon FD. " CreationDate="2010-08-31T06:05:53.017" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="3119" PostId="2920" Text="Karel, the point at which a lens becomes diffraction limited is absolutely a property of the lens, it has to do the resolving power of the lens. For instance the Zeiss 100mm f/2 Makro-Planar is sharpest at f/4, and only goes downhill from there (admittedly very gradually, and even today's 24mp cameras won't show the falloff until you go past f/5.6)&#xA;&#xA;You may not be able to see the true diffraction limit if the lens out-resolves the camera/sensor you're using, but that doesn't mean the limit isn't there. There's a reason high-end lens testing is done with an optical bench rather than a camera. " CreationDate="2010-08-31T06:37:47.467" UserId="291" />
  <row Id="3121" PostId="2915" Text="@jrista I know these things, I was gnding that with the light it was killing the detail in my shot. Making it lose contrast. I also find that the particular light makes my mages noisy very often. " CreationDate="2010-08-31T13:36:59.170" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3122" PostId="2940" Text="I think this is not really a photography question, it should be marked as Community Wiki." CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:16:42.060" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="3123" PostId="2920" Text="Guys, maybe we should have another question and answer about this:)?" CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:33:24.393" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3124" PostId="2920" Text="Regarding diffraction limit being property of lens - please take a look at this calculator: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography-2.htm. The only inputs are sensor size and amount of pixels, no lens type, focal length etc. _Diffraction limit is the same for every lens_, given that we've fixed the sensor size and pixel count. Thus diffraction limit is not the property of lens." CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:37:53.720" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3125" PostId="2915" Score="1" Text="Light is light...it simply illuminates, so it shouldn't be making your images more noisy by adding it, even if it is &quot;warmer&quot; than you would like. On the contrary, increasing the illumination of a scene allows you to shift your histogram to the right, which should help you reduce noise. For one, you utilize more of the sensor's dynamic range, particularly highlights, and two, you can often reduce the ISO setting. In general, adding light to a scene should never &quot;kill&quot; detail, only make that detail easier to capture. Now, angle is important, as it allows you to create useful shadows." CreationDate="2010-08-31T14:53:56.453" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3126" PostId="2942" Text="I'd second this, have the book for version 2 of lightroom and it's a great read and very useful.  Keep coming back to it!" CreationDate="2010-08-31T15:30:06.970" UserId="1271" />
  <row Id="3129" PostId="2920" Text="@Karel, did you read my responses and look at the graph? Yes, diffraction limit is the same for every lens, it is a physical property, but lens of lower quality can mask the diffraction limit.  The Cambridge article acknowledges it, but for ease of interpretation and simplification, assumes best-case theoretical scenarios.  In your link, notice this phrase: *The above values are only theoretical best case scenarios;&#xA;actual results will also depend on lens characteristics*" CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:24:07.257" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3130" PostId="2920" Text="OK, so now we agree that diffraction limit is not the property of lens, which was my initial statement. I understand perfectly well that the actual perceivable details in the image depend on many other factors." CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:45:11.330" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3131" PostId="2915" Text="Wow this is great info, I will experiment with this advice soon. I think you should synthesize some of this discussion into your answer, because I think people may find this useful, but might miss the comments." CreationDate="2010-08-31T18:56:13.160" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3134" PostId="2916" Score="1" Text="@jrista @john - amusingly, conflating &quot;technology&quot; with &quot;theory&quot; is something very typical of programmers (of any stripe) who take up photography. :-)" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:27:09.147" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3135" PostId="2908" Score="2" Text="+1, though someone needs to add an order of magnitude to the old saying to update it for the digital age!" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:28:14.697" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3136" PostId="2948" Score="1" Text="I do believe you're right: on my Canon DSLR, RAW files with ISO1600 can get a lot of noise" CreationDate="2010-08-31T19:40:22.150" UserId="741" />
  <row Id="3137" PostId="2948" Score="2" Text="+1 for &quot;shooting it right in-camera&quot;" CreationDate="2010-08-31T20:40:31.720" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3138" PostId="2948" Text="@Alan You can't beat getting it right in-camera. RAW is great for white balance issues, but I try not to rely on it for exposure/metering as the results are never quite as good." CreationDate="2010-08-31T20:50:24.013" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3139" PostId="2920" Text="Diffraction is caused by the lens. If we define the diffraction limit as the region where diffraction limits the resolution, a low quality lens will change this limit. If we simplify the model and make the diffraction limit only involve the sensor, then of course the lens won't have an effect." CreationDate="2010-08-31T21:47:23.373" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3140" PostId="2916" Text="@matt - I suppose for us it's usually one and the same! :)" CreationDate="2010-08-31T22:52:28.097" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3141" PostId="2916" Text="@matt: Yes...its kind of our curse. I love programming, but it always gets in the way of my art, dammit! :P" CreationDate="2010-08-31T23:30:56.587" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3142" PostId="2916" Text="@John: I've been exactly like your friend. I knew a lot about the technology and theory before I ever got a DSLR. And in recent months, I've been reading a lot about MTF, lp/mm, yadda yadda. Yugh. These days, I tend to keep technology and theory out of my mind unless I'm writing something here on Photo.se. When I'm out and about, I try to focus on lighting and composition...my two weak points. I still get tangled up in theory every so often, but I'm beginning to get a better sense of the art now." CreationDate="2010-08-31T23:34:16.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3143" PostId="452" Text="@BBishof: I'll see if I can clarify the reasons why each bit of information can be gleaned from a histogram. There is specific theory behind how a histogram works." CreationDate="2010-08-31T23:36:44.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3144" PostId="2940" Text="Wish I could go... :'(" CreationDate="2010-09-01T00:31:39.043" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3145" PostId="2924" Text="great advice, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-01T00:52:16.577" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3146" PostId="2944" Score="1" Text="+1 for having someone else do it, but not necessarily for ScanCafe." CreationDate="2010-09-01T01:07:03.847" UserId="1097" />
  <row Id="3147" PostId="2919" Text="i think this discussion is excellent, and perhaps deserves a question of it's own! which I will craft... if I can" CreationDate="2010-09-01T02:44:05.753" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3148" PostId="2421" Text="Out of curiosity, does this affect a normal tone-only histogram (B/W histogram)? Or does it only affect a color histogram? I switched to using the B/W histogram a few months ago, as it seemed to be a little more accurate." CreationDate="2010-09-01T05:41:40.600" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3149" PostId="2959" Text="I would give the LR3 Flickr services a whirl. They are pretty nice, and support metadata sync." CreationDate="2010-09-01T05:45:24.007" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3150" PostId="2950" Score="3" Text="On Canon cameras, they have &quot;expanded&quot; ISO settings (H) and (L). I thought it was only the expanded settings that were digitally amplified, and that all of the &quot;normal&quot; ISO settings were done with the analog amplifier. That would mean that most of the  higher end (and newer) Canons have a real ISO range up to 3200 at least, if not more. I think the 1D Mk IV has a normal ISO range from 100-12800, with 50, 25600, 51200, 102400 being the digitally enhanced ones. Is that not actually the case?" CreationDate="2010-09-01T05:56:02.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3151" PostId="2913" Score="1" Text="a warning for arachnophobes: you may not want to look at the original image (;" CreationDate="2010-09-01T07:14:19.867" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="3152" PostId="2920" Text="Karel those calculators only factor sensor resolution because they make the assumption that the lens out-resolves the sensor. If you want to argue that the diffraction limit is the same for the Zeiss 100mm f/2 as it would be for for one of those 28-300mm lenses @ 100mm, we'll just have to agree to disagree." CreationDate="2010-09-01T07:19:06.350" UserId="291" />
  <row Id="3153" PostId="2421" Text="@jrista - I remember from somewhere (so it's a speculation) that the b/w histogram is basically histogram of green channel. If so, it doesn't affect the histogram as the multiplier for green is already 1. But I think I can update the answer with some examples when time permits so everybody can draw their own conclusions." CreationDate="2010-09-01T07:23:30.777" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3154" PostId="2937" Text="Thanks for the explanation, I think I will stick with a Canon System :)" CreationDate="2010-09-01T08:30:44.547" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="3155" PostId="2923" Text="+1 for the nice link. But Tamron, Sigma lenses are specific mounts, which are not interchangable once ordered, no ?" CreationDate="2010-09-01T08:31:30.537" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="3156" PostId="2963" Text="Thanks, I have checked the comparisons here as well as on other sites. The points you mention above are all already considered into the decision (you get what you pay for :) )&#xA;&#xA;I was looking for more feedback from people who have used the cameras first hand, and can compare." CreationDate="2010-09-01T08:44:53.680" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="3157" PostId="2948" Text="&quot;In theory, you could post process to produce a similar result to that of a lower or higher ISO&quot; ... Surely not?  You can't undo the noise created by higher ISO.  " CreationDate="2010-09-01T10:32:36.397" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3158" PostId="2948" Text="@AJ I was thinking of a stop or so of correction, but you cannot beat getting the exposure right up front." CreationDate="2010-09-01T11:09:07.307" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3160" PostId="2923" Text="Yes, they produce specific lenses either for Canon and Nikon. But frankly speaking I don't get the idea why do you need this. Just compare list of your needs with what Canon and Nikon offer and what you friends have. I don't think that adapting lenses from Canon to Nikon (and vice versa) will give you good impact on image (or other advantages)." CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:13:32.067" UserId="1261" />
  <row Id="3162" PostId="2950" Score="1" Text="I've heard that one of the reasons to have L and Hx instead of actual numbers is that they're not calibrated, at least not as well as the common ISO values. Should be taken with healthy doze of skepticism." CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:16:18.610" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3166" PostId="2950" Text="@jrista, my conclusion (not confirmed by companies) is that the (L) is may be sincere, and (H) is a marketing term (its the same as the others but looks bad so we'll separate it). I have not seen anywhere in literature where it claims the expanded modes is actually a line between amplification methods. Here is research that shows on a Pentax, 1600 or so it is analog, and after that it is ambiguous:&#xA;http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&amp;message=34863674&#xA;http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&amp;message=34879837&amp;changemode=1" CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:33:36.837" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3167" PostId="2950" Text="Now, with my K-x, I have used anecdotal evidence to infer that above 1600, it is all digital. The main two observations are that above 1600 ISO, my K-x JPEG buffer size drops significantly. The other is that video is limited to 1600 ISO. While the latter may be a marketing decision (too noisy above 1600), the former shows there is some inherent difference between 1600 and above 1600 ISO. When combined with the information in the link above, I conjecture that the processor on the K-x is amplifying the data instead of clearing the buffer. " CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:34:37.507" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3168" PostId="2950" Text="On the K-x, the (L) equivalent is half sincere, and I believe they were just trying to copy other manufacturers. Much evidence points toward the base ISO actually being between 100 and 200, closer to 125, due to the DR differences. If it really had a base ISO of 200, there would be no way to get more DR at ISO 100. " CreationDate="2010-09-01T12:35:07.740" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3169" PostId="1558" Text="I've doing this for a while now, without the drawbacks listed below. I'll talk about this tool, but a quick question first: is your LR *catalog* 3GB (i.e. the .lrcat file itself, and how many photos is that?), or did you add the size of your preview folder in this estimate, or more catalogs, or even your photos? Thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-01T14:18:45.583" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3170" PostId="2144" Score="1" Text="Thanks a lot! Really helpful and detailed. Will post some result :D" CreationDate="2010-09-01T14:21:32.053" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="3171" PostId="1230" Text="also, since “lightroom” also has another meaning, would be a good idea to use “adobe-lightroom” for the other tag." CreationDate="2010-09-01T14:25:54.313" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="3172" PostId="1235" Score="1" Text="Regarding HDR and interaction, it is worth mentioning that Aperture has a lively ecosystem of plugins available, such as Hydra or Photomatix" CreationDate="2010-09-01T14:27:43.190" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="3173" PostId="2956" Score="1" Text="+1: Great answer." CreationDate="2010-09-01T17:50:48.437" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3174" PostId="2949" Text="That is an excellent answer - just what I was looking for.  Many thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-01T20:10:10.830" UserId="926" />
  <row Id="3175" PostId="2972" Text="That could well be the problem I was having last night, at any rate.  I could tell my main flash wasn't firing, so the card was not properly exposed.  I knew I needed the flash to fire to get its color contribution, but I didn't think it could actually cause this issue." CreationDate="2010-09-01T21:09:50.817" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3176" PostId="2971" Score="4" Text="If you capture with RAW you shouldn't need to be too concerned with white balance on location." CreationDate="2010-09-01T22:14:49.733" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3177" PostId="2976" Text="Awesome! Many thanks" CreationDate="2010-09-01T23:02:45.770" UserId="86" />
  <row Id="3178" PostId="2976" Text="In fact `exiftool -v &quot;-FileModifyDate&gt;AllDates&quot; *` did all 3 dates&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-09-01T23:05:24.127" UserId="86" />
  <row Id="3179" PostId="2976" Text="@Shevek - You're quite welcome!" CreationDate="2010-09-02T00:24:29.607" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3180" PostId="2981" Score="1" Text="Just out of curiosity, why would you sell all your gear and move to Nikon? Both brands offer pretty much identical quality and features across the board. If you are already invested in one brand, the benefits of jumping ship and completely switching are practically nil...If you have Canon, and need the 24-70 2.8, I would just get it. Its a fantastic lens." CreationDate="2010-09-02T01:53:25.197" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3181" PostId="2981" Text="remember also that the two brands often play a bit of leap-frog as to who's *ahead* in any particular area... so unless you've so much money that you can afford to swap all your gear every few years, there's no real point switching... the differences just aren't *that* big, and both brands will be incrementally better next year (every year)" CreationDate="2010-09-02T03:38:25.527" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="3182" PostId="2982" Text="Be ware that Ken Rockwell is Nikon's poster boy. The relative differences between the Nikon 24-70 and the Canon 24-70 are minuscule at best, and Canon's 24-70 is still one of, if not the, best zoom lens Canon offers. The images from it are just as tack sharp as from the Nikon." CreationDate="2010-09-02T03:40:42.517" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3183" PostId="2981" Score="3" Text="@jrista, the main reason is that all my good lenses are EF-S mounts, so when I go full frame Im going to have to start from scratch anyway.  " CreationDate="2010-09-02T04:41:25.327" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="3184" PostId="2981" Text="May be worth noting the Canon 24-70 came out in 2002. The Nikon one I think in 2007. There may well be a new Canon one in the next 1-2 years (most likely with IS) if you're talking about long term upgrades. And whatever incremental difference there is from 2002 to 2007 will be approximately repeated in a newer Canon one in 2011-2012..." CreationDate="2010-09-02T04:52:52.013" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="3185" PostId="2986" Text="Thanks. Could you use something like a thick black bed sheet as a background at all or are there better materials to more fully absorb any flashes etc?" CreationDate="2010-09-02T05:22:37.527" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3186" PostId="2981" Score="1" Text="I'd just like to ask people to control their knee-jerk Canon/Nikon talking points.  The question hasn't been up that long, it'd be a pity to see it closed before someone said something smart." CreationDate="2010-09-02T05:28:53.663" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3188" PostId="2981" Text="My comments were less about nikon vs. canon, and more about saving Sam some money. He didn't mention the &quot;EF-S only, want Full Frame&quot; before, and I would hate to see someone &quot;switch&quot; and incur the cost of all new gear &quot;just for the sake of it&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-02T05:54:34.727" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3189" PostId="2421" Text="@Karel: I'd appreciate that. Thanks. " CreationDate="2010-09-02T05:59:21.220" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3190" PostId="2981" Text="@jrista With respect, *everyone's* heart is in the right place in these situations. That doesn't make comments such as &quot;poster boy&quot; below any less argumentative." CreationDate="2010-09-02T06:03:16.513" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3191" PostId="957" Text="@jrista, Hamish - theoretically, what is the difference between a 100mm (say) EF lens, and a 100 mm EF-S lens, when used on an APS-C camera ?&#xA;&#xA;Reason for asking is that some EF lenses seem to be much cheaper." CreationDate="2010-09-02T06:59:25.783" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="3192" PostId="2986" Text="Can't say I've really done much with black backgrounds, but I'd imagine the more cotton/wool the less reflective it'll be... should be easy enough to try out well before you go too. If you've got a big enough black sheet, then putting it further away will mean it gets a lot less light on it and is also easier to make it out of focus so it blends together better, even if there is a little reflection." CreationDate="2010-09-02T07:11:38.083" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="3193" PostId="2981" Text="@jrista edited my question to reflect, I don't want to start a flame war here.  " CreationDate="2010-09-02T08:41:53.003" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="3194" PostId="2967" Text="Thanks, @ahockley.  I have looked at ScanCafe (largely as a result of being bombarded with ads on PhotoFocus!), but unfortunately they only work in North America.  :(" CreationDate="2010-09-02T08:45:58.960" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3195" PostId="2987" Text="Might be worth adding the key that red == seal; green == rubber cover; yellow == ?" CreationDate="2010-09-02T11:14:10.020" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3196" PostId="1831" Text="@mmr - this is how to do it in-camera: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1805/how-can-i-take-a-picture-of-the-moon-as-part-of-a-night-landscape/2506#2506" CreationDate="2010-09-02T11:49:51.373" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3197" PostId="3018" Text="Thank you, Daniel.  I hadn't thought of colour.  :)" CreationDate="2010-09-02T12:03:12.637" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3198" PostId="3016" Text="I had the original one for compact camera however I found that it was not good as a mini tripod if I had a flat surface. You really need an object to attach too." CreationDate="2010-09-02T12:06:36.653" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="3199" PostId="2831" Text="@Eruditass: 10x for the clarification." CreationDate="2010-09-02T12:09:14.090" UserId="80" />
  <row Id="3200" PostId="1198" Text="Yes, I shoot raw." CreationDate="2010-09-02T12:29:13.043" UserId="432" />
  <row Id="3201" PostId="2982" Text="Good point.  I didn't intend to say it was any better than the Canon's, especially since I have not used the Canon lens." CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:17:36.033" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="3202" PostId="3027" Text="I think the question boils down to: 1) why use a manual focus lens and 2) what are the features to look for when buying manual focus lens. I'd be interested in these answers too :)" CreationDate="2010-09-02T14:40:40.907" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3203" PostId="2913" Text="@drfrogsplat Lol, I hadn't considered that issue, heh." CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:28:40.530" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3204" PostId="3028" Score="3" Text="Video also doesn't allow for autofocus; another good reason to use a manual focus lens." CreationDate="2010-09-02T15:57:16.833" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="3205" PostId="3031" Text="This doesn't really answer the question.  But yes, the dimmer viewfinder will hinder but certainly not make it &quot;almost impossible.&quot; There is AF-confirm, trap-AF, distance markings, DoF guides.  LiveView with magnification also makes it incredibly easy with static scenes. Then there are split-image focus screens and viewfinder magnifiers, both quite popular with MFers." CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:23:00.407" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3206" PostId="3032" Text="Too subjective and generic. You might want to make this a community-wiki." CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:35:42.333" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="3207" PostId="3032" Score="4" Text="Community wiki is not a bad idea, but for professionals I think there are a list of pretty well-established rules." CreationDate="2010-09-02T16:54:04.433" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3208" PostId="3015" Text="Good question. I recently turned my trekking pole into a monopod (Just drilled a hole on top and attached a 1/4&quot; threaded rod to it), and I'm curious to see how much of an advantage I'll be gaining." CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:31:17.150" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="3209" PostId="3038" Score="5" Text="White balance will help render the scene closer to how our eyes see it.  Our eyes adjust and balance white automatically.  This is why indoors with incandescent light, the white appears mostly white, but when outside looking in, things well look more yellow." CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:32:21.567" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3210" PostId="3038" Text="As I am new to photography, does setting a white balance come by experience after lot of trial and errors or even during initial days can I decide what the white balance setting in my camera needs to be? " CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:41:27.317" UserId="1272" />
  <row Id="3211" PostId="3038" Score="3" Text="Use Auto White Balance and shoot RAW, so you can apply lossless WB corrections afterwards." CreationDate="2010-09-02T17:44:04.770" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3212" PostId="3032" Text="I'll wait and see how this turns out before converting it. If there are some official lists of established, professional guidelines/best practices, this is a good non-wiki question." CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:06:45.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3213" PostId="2327" Text="Thanks for the replies. An update - I've gone for the Cokin Z-Pro system which I believe will allow me to use Lee filters in the future if I wish to. Many thanks to all contributors." CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:27:33.527" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="3214" PostId="2987" Text="@Rowland - I couldn't find a concrete answer on what they were.  I saw both your version and one that said green = gasket, red = precision joint." CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:46:29.383" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3215" PostId="3038" Score="5" Text="@Sachin - Auto is simplest, but setting a white balance can be helpful for consistency (makes it easier to apply corrections as a batch, for one). It has some learning curve, but not a big one. Basically: what's above your head? Blue sky &amp; sun? &quot;Daylight&quot; or if you're in the shade, &quot;Shade,&quot; using a flash... etc.  Or you can carry a little table of typical color temperatures and set to that.  The downside is the same as any manual setting: you need to remember to change it." CreationDate="2010-09-02T18:53:41.723" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3216" PostId="2421" Text="@jrista - now when I think about it, my examples probably don't really help you. Better download this file: http://www.guillermoluijk.com/download/uniwb450d.zip, copy to memory card and set white balance based on it. Take 2 pics, one with this WB and one with normal and then you can compare the histograms." CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:12:24.330" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3217" PostId="3046" Text="Well, it depends _how much_ dust we're talking about..." CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:36:34.963" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3218" PostId="3036" Score="1" Text="+1, Awesome tips!" CreationDate="2010-09-02T20:48:58.570" UserId="740" />
  <row Id="3219" PostId="2920" Text="I think we should differentiate between lens softness and diffraction limit. The resolution of the system depends on many other factors and I see no reason to take one factor into account and leave out all the others." CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:22:41.813" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3220" PostId="3044" Text="I don't think there's anything inherently different about the two designs *apart* from the change in length of the lens.  Two particular lenses might show differences in durability, etc, but a general rule seems almost impossible to come by here." CreationDate="2010-09-02T21:33:16.393" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3221" PostId="2982" Text="I have Canon 24-70 and I'm very happy with it, although according to Photozone test it has a few shortcomings, optically: http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/528-canon2470f28ff" CreationDate="2010-09-02T23:18:24.850" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3222" PostId="3046" Score="5" Text="It would have to be a whole lot of dust.  Check out this article.  It mirrors my experiences.  http://kurtmunger.com/dirty_lens_articleid35.html" CreationDate="2010-09-02T23:24:34.480" UserId="965" />
  <row Id="3223" PostId="1328" Text="to do this to specific photos you can also go to settings and copy the settings from one photo, then paste them to another photo." CreationDate="2010-09-03T00:16:18.420" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3224" PostId="3030" Text="Unless you autofocus on the floor inbetween :)&#xA;&#xA;One area I always use MF is landscapes.  Thank goodness for DoF guides." CreationDate="2010-09-03T01:00:28.453" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3225" PostId="3046" Text="Nice article. I'm glad that author put in a note about why he destroyed the lens. I can't stand people destroying good equipment." CreationDate="2010-09-03T01:30:55.680" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3226" PostId="3034" Score="1" Text="totally! I thought it was my D50?? Do you think this problem would go away with a better body, say a D700? or is the issue solely with the lens?" CreationDate="2010-09-03T01:47:29.620" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3227" PostId="3054" Score="2" Text="So would I actually be better going with the 35mm to get a more &quot;normal&quot; field, since I have a DX camera?" CreationDate="2010-09-03T03:31:07.363" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="3228" PostId="2987" Text="i guess its good to know where the seals are, and certainly if there's a difference between the green/red ones then you might be more careful about water near a particular item... but doesn't really help one work out how much weather is being sealed out of any particular camera :s" CreationDate="2010-09-03T04:39:17.707" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="3229" PostId="3057" Text="+1 - the little lad here at home has one of these as well. It's still alive." CreationDate="2010-09-03T05:30:31.863" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="3230" PostId="2987" Text="@drfrogsplat - Like I said, not a lot of claims are made, so not a lot of objective evaluation is possible. Basically it boils down to the more expensive models tend to be more durable (for some arbitrary value of &quot;more&quot;), plus a healthy dose of &quot;be careful&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-03T05:38:37.383" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3231" PostId="3031" Text="But a good warning for the guy not to throw away some money.&#xA;BTW, do you know, for example, that AF-confirm on Canon 400D can miss for a half of DoF and it's okay for this cameras niche? So, AF-confirm on Canon 400D will NOT do any magic for you. So as a dim viewfinder. So, be careful before diving into manual focusing! Make sure your camera is from professional line (NOT from semi-professional)" CreationDate="2010-09-03T06:26:34.827" UserId="1290" />
  <row Id="3232" PostId="3056" Score="2" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2585/what-is-a-good-set-of-features-to-look-for-in-a-camera-for-kids" CreationDate="2010-09-03T07:10:44.620" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3233" PostId="2968" Text="Every ring flash attachment unit which can be mounted onto a &quot;Bang-bang-bang&quot; flash unit (e.g., on Canon 580 EX II) can do &quot;Bang-bang-bang&quot; shooting. :) The question only in it's quality." CreationDate="2010-09-03T10:03:15.273" UserId="1290" />
  <row Id="3234" PostId="3054" Score="2" Text="Correct, and a 50mm lens if you want a bit of a telephoto for things like portraits." CreationDate="2010-09-03T11:17:33.453" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3235" PostId="3036" Text="Good tips! I'd also add, if you shoot a dressed model, have her wear plain, neutral clothes, i.e. not a T-shirt with some screaming drawing on it." CreationDate="2010-09-03T11:57:32.880" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3236" PostId="3063" Text="A black reflector *might* come in handy, to remove stray light as well" CreationDate="2010-09-03T12:03:24.790" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3237" PostId="3034" Text="I can't say.  I would think it is a lense issue (it's an old lense design), because other lenses don't do this." CreationDate="2010-09-03T12:33:45.433" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="3238" PostId="3059" Text="thanks, igor.  good tip to check my triggers work!  " CreationDate="2010-09-03T12:39:16.513" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3239" PostId="3066" Score="1" Text="Unfortunately, the Nikon 50mm f1.8 does not have an in-lens autofocus motor, so with the OP's D3000, it will not autofocus." CreationDate="2010-09-03T12:44:30.140" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3240" PostId="3063" Text="A black reflector? Don't I have to see it as an &quot;absorber&quot; then??" CreationDate="2010-09-03T12:46:44.463" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3241" PostId="3054" Text="Thanks!  I've been trying to shoot at 50 for a few days to see if I like it...should I actually be shooting at 75 with my kit lens, or does the crop sensor on the kit lens adjust in the same way?" CreationDate="2010-09-03T13:32:51.787" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="3242" PostId="3057" Text="I should add the surprising use of video for a little kid is not them shooting video, but using it strictly for the audio recording.  My daughter records herself singing songs and talking in funny voices, and this amuses her for long periods of time." CreationDate="2010-09-03T13:38:45.967" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3243" PostId="1061" Text="I would suggest [The Handbook of Astronomical Image Processing](http://www.willbell.com/aip/index.htm) for your book list." CreationDate="2010-09-03T13:55:55.610" UserId="865" />
  <row Id="3244" PostId="3068" Text="I like the book idea - there will certainly be a few books on the list!" CreationDate="2010-09-03T14:04:01.930" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3245" PostId="3069" Text="Thanks for the link.  I'm an avid follower of DPS.  Great site!" CreationDate="2010-09-03T14:04:50.357" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3246" PostId="3066" Text="Ha, I was just going to say this :)  Ya, the price difference I'm looking at is ~$190 (for the 35mm) or $440 (for the 50mm).  AFAIK, the 50mm is a relatively new lens, so not really very easy to find used unfortunately." CreationDate="2010-09-03T14:10:34.117" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="3247" PostId="3067" Score="1" Text="This should be made into a community wiki, as there is no single good answer." CreationDate="2010-09-03T14:54:31.720" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="3248" PostId="2942" Text="agreed. this would be a good first book." CreationDate="2010-09-03T15:00:00.030" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="3249" PostId="2968" Text="From the OP's question it didn't sound like it was an add-on to an existing strobe, but instead a dedicated LED flash unit." CreationDate="2010-09-03T17:00:34.893" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3256" PostId="3032" Text="@jrista - there is no &quot;official&quot; list of rules; who would issue it?" CreationDate="2010-09-03T20:44:20.813" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3257" PostId="3054" Score="1" Text="@Sarah Yes, it affects the kit lens the same way; if you want to see roughly what a 50mm lens will look like, set the kit lens to 50mm. &quot;Equivalent&quot; focal lengths are just to give people a common frame of reference." CreationDate="2010-09-03T20:47:39.610" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3262" PostId="3032" Text="@jrista are you being serious? 'cause it feels like you're pulling my chain with &quot;I honestly couldn't say if there was anything official or not.&quot;  Is there such an &quot;official&quot; rules-issuing body for *any* field of photography?" CreationDate="2010-09-03T21:02:58.730" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3265" PostId="3032" Text="There were two clear opinions about this thread, one voiced in a flag for moderators, and jfklein's comment above. My original comment was simply added so that the person who left the flag would know a moderator looked at their request. I don't know if this should be CW or not, and I decided to leave it up to the community to decide. If I received another flag, or there was a clear community desire for this to be wiki, I would have gladly converted it. Otherwise, I was content to leave it be." CreationDate="2010-09-03T21:26:18.440" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3268" PostId="3032" Text="@jrista - It was actually an honest question. You seem to me to be implying that there's the possibility of some official photography portait-posing rule-making body, and I couldn't tell if you were making a joke or not." CreationDate="2010-09-03T21:49:56.350" UserId="496" />
  <row Id="3271" PostId="2662" Text="&quot;budget for manufacture&quot; and for design. You are paying for the expertise of the whole lens manufacturer." CreationDate="2010-09-03T23:02:27.403" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="3272" PostId="3071" Text="+1. agree 100% for the reason that I would never feel justified buying a book.... I always leave arty bookshops sad :-(" CreationDate="2010-09-04T04:50:05.540" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3273" PostId="3037" Text="Thanks everyone for the wonderful answers. Seems all of them are helpful and wish I could mark all of these as answers, but I am just choosing the one with most votes as answer." CreationDate="2010-09-04T07:34:37.180" UserId="1272" />
  <row Id="3275" PostId="3043" Text="+1 yes, most likely the auto white-balance is way off." CreationDate="2010-09-04T09:35:22.770" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="3276" PostId="3043" Text="+1 I've found a grey picker to work great - it's amazing to see the transformation." CreationDate="2010-09-04T09:36:43.907" UserId="93" />
  <row Id="3277" PostId="3032" Text="The Professional Photographers of America (PPA) has rules, or strong guidelines for their print competitions." CreationDate="2010-09-04T16:13:22.667" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3278" PostId="3087" Text="For transparencies/slides, yes. Thanks, looks like I just need to browse through a couple of thousand tables and lamps :)" CreationDate="2010-09-04T18:54:00.590" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3279" PostId="3091" Text="Thanks, leuchtpult is the jackpot on ebay.de." CreationDate="2010-09-04T20:43:14.750" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3280" PostId="2622" Text="I like this idea.  Do you have that library posted, or can you please point me to a few of those photos?&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-09-04T21:57:27.600" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3282" PostId="3097" Score="2" Text="you took those pics with macro, am I correct?" CreationDate="2010-09-05T04:50:44.760" />
  <row Id="3283" PostId="3097" Text="#2 yes, #1 probably (though those grasshoppers were actually humongous).  If you were say in the middle of a big field, on a mountain, or anywhere with a lot of space, you could create a scene where you didn't even need to focus close and use macro mode.  " CreationDate="2010-09-05T04:57:36.697" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3284" PostId="3090" Score="1" Text="That's a nice straightforward answer. I had in mind more like zoo aquarium where it might be hard to clean the glass but I guess a starting point would be a simple tissue to wipe off greasy finger." CreationDate="2010-09-05T08:58:32.993" UserId="219" />
  <row Id="3287" PostId="19" Text="This thread: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2706/what-is-bokeh-really has some good explanations on how bokeh comes about which, in some ways, will help to answer the question." CreationDate="2010-09-05T14:34:14.057" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3288" PostId="1558" Text="@sebastien.b The 3GB size is for everything in Lightroom data folder, including the previews (but not my photos). Can I get away with just copying the .lrcat file? I thought data about edited images would be in the .lrdata (previews) folder." CreationDate="2010-09-05T17:23:48.003" UserId="605" />
  <row Id="3289" PostId="3090" Score="2" Text="It's a surprisingly good advice -- in zoo aquariums most smudges are on the outside of the glass and can be cleaned (although it never would have occurred to me to do it)." CreationDate="2010-09-05T18:08:23.290" UserId="605" />
  <row Id="3290" PostId="3100" Text="Quick note: For Giclee prints, which are a great way to print on Canvas (you get a nice, durable coat of ink that doesn't easily crack or peel), many labs prefer RAW or 16bit TIFF @ 300dpi." CreationDate="2010-09-05T19:17:37.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3291" PostId="3104" Score="1" Text="I have to agree with chills42, I don't see any reason to shoot with a filter on the lens." CreationDate="2010-09-06T03:58:43.597" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3293" PostId="2961" Score="1" Text="If you take two pictures of the same scene with the same aperture and exposure time, only varying the ISO, the same amount of light will hit the sensor during each picture.The photo produced by the ISO 1600 capture would be 4 stops brighter than the one at ISO 100, hence &quot;4-stop overexposed&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-06T05:45:36.413" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3294" PostId="2708" Text="I have edited to (very briefly) explain this." CreationDate="2010-09-06T05:46:42.377" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3295" PostId="3104" Text="Good point about built in filters.... would have never crossed my mind...Cheers." CreationDate="2010-09-06T05:52:32.297" UserId="865" />
  <row Id="3296" PostId="3101" Text="An overhead projector is used when you want to project the image of a transparency onto a screen. Overhead projectors involve very bright lights, and some sort of focusing system (usually a lens and a mirror.) The device Karel is asking about is essentially a box with a light and a frosted glass panel, on which you can put slides for personal viewing." CreationDate="2010-09-06T05:54:30.070" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3297" PostId="3071" Score="1" Text="Nice point about levels of research.  I usually put things on an Amazon wish list, so they can just click and buy.  (I like to make it easy for people to buy me presents - I'm thoughtful that way  ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-06T09:24:19.800" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3298" PostId="3074" Score="2" Text="Folding reflector is a nice suggestion!  I can't agree with the basic tripod, I'm afraid - that's one of the few things where it's really not worth buying a cheap one.  Mind you,  a basic monopod - there's an idea that has legs.  ;)   Thanks for your answer!   " CreationDate="2010-09-06T09:24:44.777" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3299" PostId="3072" Text="I like the gorillapod idea!  Also, I have been hearing a few good things about yongnuo gear recently.  Thank you!" CreationDate="2010-09-06T09:27:43.073" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3300" PostId="3101" Text="Yes, Evan is right. Light box is where you do the sorting and editing before projecting." CreationDate="2010-09-06T09:49:59.307" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3301" PostId="3025" Text="Is it the latest version without the aperture ring and SWM (AF-S 1.8G) or the older one with an aperture ring and no motor at all (AF 1.8 D)?" CreationDate="2010-09-06T12:14:30.080" UserId="765" />
  <row Id="3302" PostId="3105" Score="1" Text="Need more information! What is your budget? What sort of photography do you do? You need to bear in mind that your choice of lens is as important as the body, if not more so. Can you provide more detail in your question about the sort of photography you want to take?" CreationDate="2010-09-06T14:10:36.477" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="3303" PostId="3105" Score="2" Text="Any particular reason you're after a Nikon? Is it just so you can borrow your friend's lenses?" CreationDate="2010-09-06T18:13:30.983" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3304" PostId="957" Score="1" Text="@Abhinav: Outside of the cost, they are still the same focal length. The cheaper EF-S one will have lower quality build, probably lower quality glass, which might mean more problems with CA and other distortion." CreationDate="2010-09-06T18:35:55.797" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3305" PostId="3034" Text="To me it seems that the 35 f1.8 is slower than the 18-55 VR, but I don't have any concrete data to back this up." CreationDate="2010-09-06T19:11:45.800" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3306" PostId="3113" Text="Ahhh...Mirror lockup....I suppose I should read the manual. Nice shot BTW. Thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-06T22:21:08.130" UserId="865" />
  <row Id="3307" PostId="3105" Score="4" Text="possible duplicate of [Things to look for in my first SLR camera](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2876/things-to-look-for-in-my-first-slr-camera)" CreationDate="2010-09-06T22:55:27.620" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="3308" PostId="3114" Score="3" Text="Good question. Was planning to ask something similar, but you beat me to it!" CreationDate="2010-09-07T02:15:05.337" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="3309" PostId="3115" Score="2" Text="Do you know whether the above also applies to education versions? I'm looking to pick up a student version in the next month, and would like to run it on a desktop and laptop." CreationDate="2010-09-07T02:17:33.620" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="3310" PostId="3115" Score="3" Text="Although I'm not 100% certain, I believe that also applies to education licenses; your best bet is to contact adobe." CreationDate="2010-09-07T02:33:46.620" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3311" PostId="3116" Score="1" Text="I (and many others) use 99% isopropyl alcohol (many lens cleaning fluids are basically just this) to clean lenses regularly and haven't had any problems with coatings.  " CreationDate="2010-09-07T04:15:09.293" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3312" PostId="2044" Score="2" Text="It should be noted that the numbers quoted above (i.e. 300dpi) are actually the resolution, not the DPI. DPI and PPI are distinct factors, and depending on the type of printer used, may be identical or may be very different. DPI is the resolution of actual dots printed by the printer, and there may be many dots per pixel. Particularly with ink jet printers, DPI is usually much higher than PPI (i.e. Canon 9500 is 4800x1200 dpi, but native resolution of 600ppi). I would change DPI to PPI in all examples above." CreationDate="2010-09-07T04:44:32.480" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3313" PostId="1004" Score="2" Text="Printers print at PPI, not DPI. DPI is the number of single ink dots that can be laid down in an inch. In some printers (i.e. dye sub) this may be the same, however in many they are different. For example, in with ink jet printing, many colored dots are required to print a single pixel. Most ink jet printers print at a baseline 2400x1200 dpi (although this may vary between brands), with a native resolution at around 600ppi or 720ppi. When you print, you are generally choosing the PPI, which should evenly divide into the native PPI (i.e. 300ppi divides evenly into 600ppi.) " CreationDate="2010-09-07T04:57:59.630" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3314" PostId="3112" Score="1" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1940/what-are-the-best-methods-for-cleaning-really-dirty-lens-elements There are some differences, however these two might be a candidate for merger. " CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:06:03.397" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3315" PostId="2877" Text="I suppose ergonomics also include weight... Because it does matter" CreationDate="2010-09-07T07:51:04.410" UserId="72" />
  <row Id="3316" PostId="3110" Score="1" Text="+1 Nikon D5000 is recommended by Ken Rockwell as Best Serious Camera. http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/recommended-cameras.htm" CreationDate="2010-09-07T08:25:13.213" UserId="607" />
  <row Id="3317" PostId="2622" Score="1" Text="It's just stuff I collect here and there for inspiration. Portefolios, blogs, images torn out from fashion magazines and catalogs, etc... It's easy to build your own (and even if I could share mine - which I won't because I don't have the rights to publish those images - it's more beneficial to build your own I think)" CreationDate="2010-09-07T13:59:13.923" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="3318" PostId="3120" Text="What model speed light are you using?" CreationDate="2010-09-07T14:02:30.600" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3319" PostId="581" Score="3" Text="I think this area of discussion is important.  Especially if we flip it around and ask &quot;what should I as a photographer be [not] doing to make my clients happy&quot;, or &quot;what should my clients be looking for in me&quot;?  " CreationDate="2010-09-07T14:34:39.080" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3320" PostId="3125" Text="This seems to be about promotion, and not about photography at all, so it's at best barely on topic... Let's see where the community goes with this..." CreationDate="2010-09-07T14:55:33.683" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3321" PostId="3121" Text="Or perhaps a bicycle helmet mount: http://photojojo.com/store/awesomeness/helmet-camera-mount/" CreationDate="2010-09-07T15:02:42.553" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3322" PostId="3125" Text="Fair enough.  :-)" CreationDate="2010-09-07T15:06:05.390" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3323" PostId="3117" Text="+1 for recommending the used D200.  Remember, this is what many professionals used only 5 years ago, and it can be had for ~$500 on Craigslist these days." CreationDate="2010-09-07T16:43:06.653" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="3324" PostId="3057" Text="Thanks, that's probably the one we'll go with!" CreationDate="2010-09-07T17:00:10.550" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="3325" PostId="3125" Text="@Guffa: I agree, it is about promotion (really about how to run a business), but I think that topic is important for professional photographers, it should be okay." CreationDate="2010-09-07T17:47:56.670" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3326" PostId="3116" Text="+1 to you both for the 99% IPA lens cleaning recommendation." CreationDate="2010-09-07T18:51:51.190" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3327" PostId="3133" Score="4" Text="There is already a good question about review sites: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1570/websites-for-comparing-cameras" CreationDate="2010-09-07T19:24:05.367" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3328" PostId="3133" Score="4" Text="You might also be interested in this question about features to look for: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2876/things-to-look-for-in-my-first-slr-camera" CreationDate="2010-09-07T19:25:31.493" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3329" PostId="3134" Text="This is really a comment and should have been posted as such (but unfortunately you don't have enough rep yet)." CreationDate="2010-09-07T20:08:37.703" UserId="441" />
  <row Id="3330" PostId="2441" Score="2" Text="I hadn't heard of Hartmann/Bahtinov masks before; very interesting." CreationDate="2010-09-07T21:13:18.353" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3331" PostId="3134" Score="1" Text="We mods need a &quot;convert to comment&quot; option. :P" CreationDate="2010-09-07T21:58:40.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3332" PostId="1558" Text="@dkk OK, thanks. Yes, I've a solution for you, I've been using it for 5 years on small/large files, and for 2 years since I started using LR. Hard to install, but a breeze to use once it's set up, I'll post details soon. No, edited images are not in the previews folder." CreationDate="2010-09-07T22:40:54.923" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3333" PostId="3140" Score="1" Text="It should be noted that owning a telephoto lens by no means eliminates the option of photographing landscapes. I've been using my 100-400mm lately to take a lot of landscape shots, and the results are fantastic. There is a LOT of potential for telephoto landscapes, and categorically excluding landscape as an option for telephoto lenses is severely limiting the range of uses for such a lens." CreationDate="2010-09-07T23:21:43.640" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3334" PostId="3137" Score="4" Text="#6 is a good idea." CreationDate="2010-09-07T23:42:53.067" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3335" PostId="3140" Text="@jrista. I'm not categorically excluding anything, really: if you have a lens, who is to tell you what to shoot or not :) 100mm? Interesting. Can I have a look at the results online?" CreationDate="2010-09-07T23:47:51.173" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3336" PostId="3143" Score="6" Text="Possibly a duplicate of: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1504/non-camera-bag-suggestion" CreationDate="2010-09-07T23:56:28.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3337" PostId="3140" Text="I might reword &quot;what is 'bad' for landscape...&quot; then. ;P As for examples, sure. I got the idea from Andy Mumford: http://www.nd-magazine.com/articles/art6.php. You can see some of my own shots here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jon-rista/4947606210/in/set-72157624558290901/" CreationDate="2010-09-07T23:58:33.047" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3338" PostId="3144" Text="Yeah I have found I can't really use the global Recovery setting when dealing with portraits or skin tones in general. It makes them a little pink and not too flattering..." CreationDate="2010-09-08T00:29:14.240" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3339" PostId="2942" Text="This does look like a good book to have handy. Thanks for the tip!" CreationDate="2010-09-08T01:05:30.080" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="3340" PostId="3144" Text="You can usually compensate for that with adjustments to temperature and tint. The selective editing brush can brush on multiple adjustments simultaneously, so you might need to experiment a bit. The key is to recognize that recovery will try to recover only what is &quot;blown&quot;, so if reds and yellows are considerably more blown our than blues and greens, you get a color shift. Simultaneous adjustments to temperature and/or tint along with recovery can usually correct that." CreationDate="2010-09-08T01:08:42.627" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3341" PostId="3027" Text="Every lens is a compromise.  I want to know what people look for in manual focus lenses that they don't find in auto focus lenses, i.e. which features they trade auto focus for.  Eruditass brings up interesting points so I've accepted his/her answer.  If other people have additional or different reasons for choosing auto focus lenses, I'm still interested in their opinions." CreationDate="2010-09-08T12:25:50.117" UserId="432" />
  <row Id="3342" PostId="3030" Text="Manual focus certainly has its uses.  What I'm curious about is the particular reasons that make you use the phrase &quot;better quality lens&quot;.  Obviously this differs from lens to lens.  I'm looking for questions to ask when shopping lenses rather than advice on a particular lens." CreationDate="2010-09-08T12:32:18.570" UserId="432" />
  <row Id="3344" PostId="1538" Score="1" Text="I like the ability to easily compare lenses in their Lens Review Widget. I wish they would review new lenses as they come out, like they do with DLSRs." CreationDate="2010-09-08T12:51:23.330" UserId="432" />
  <row Id="3345" PostId="3153" Text="Hope you don't mind my edit." CreationDate="2010-09-08T13:14:31.527" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3346" PostId="3153" Text="@Karel: No, you are so correct. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-08T13:26:46.567" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3347" PostId="3156" Text="Could you even use a catalog in PS/CRaw if you wanted to? " CreationDate="2010-09-08T13:43:33.283" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3348" PostId="3153" Text="Is it in fact from closest to infinity, or is it defined as rotation required to change focus a set amount? With the former definition, lenses that focus closer and have longer total rotation could have less fine-tuned precision than one that does not focus as close.  Is there not a metric specifically for the latter?" CreationDate="2010-09-08T13:52:46.517" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3349" PostId="3153" Text="@Eruditass: Yes, you are right that you can't make an exact comparsion across all lenses. Consider also that the focusing rings can have different diameters, so there is a difference between measuring turning angle and measuring distance along the diameter. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-08T13:58:57.683" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3350" PostId="3156" Text="I don't think PS/CRaw uses catalogs, no.  " CreationDate="2010-09-08T13:59:10.270" UserId="626" />
  <row Id="3351" PostId="3156" Text="@Sam, @Chris: You definitely can. Some version had that as default, and I lost a bunch of settings because I didn't notice that..." CreationDate="2010-09-08T14:02:24.423" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3352" PostId="3130" Text="wow.  that's certainly an answer!  I really appreciate the time you put into it.  Thank you.  " CreationDate="2010-09-08T14:58:47.010" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3353" PostId="3156" Text="@Guffa, thanks, good to know, in case I ever need to use camera raw!" CreationDate="2010-09-08T15:08:35.207" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3354" PostId="3162" Text="Av and Tv modes don't give you full control. You can choose aperture or speed, but the camera chooses the other parameter such that the result is mid-gray. The camera has the final word here. Manual is the way to go. (see also my answer)" CreationDate="2010-09-08T17:50:45.843" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3355" PostId="3162" Text="I didn't say that Av or Tv gave you **Full** control, only that you want to have them.  For certain situations, you want the camera to do some of the work.  The difference is that in Av or Tv, you are only giving it control of specific areas of the exposure triangle." CreationDate="2010-09-08T19:41:30.897" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3356" PostId="3163" Score="1" Text="Just a nitpick, aperture is only one part of exposure, so it isn't the only way to adjust the overall exposure.  Often there is a setting for &quot;exposure compensation&quot; that allows you to make an overall brightness adjustment even in an automatic mode." CreationDate="2010-09-08T19:44:50.000" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3357" PostId="3040" Text="I've processed the photos now and posted them onto a subsidiary (ie hidden) part of my website. Reading through the meta it seems that putting the URL here is probably not the done thing, but if anyone would like to see the results please send me a message. And thanks once again to all contributors!" CreationDate="2010-09-08T20:10:05.243" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="3358" PostId="3163" Text="Exactly. Exposure compensation is a means to correct what the camera supposes it should do." CreationDate="2010-09-08T20:14:15.610" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3359" PostId="2242" Score="1" Text="They don't have to be wide to normal angle.  Don't forget the excellent Pentax DA 70mm (105e): http://www.mylensdb.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/PENTAX-DA-70mm-F2.4-Limited.jpg" CreationDate="2010-09-08T23:38:37.673" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3360" PostId="305" Text="good question! I've casually wondered about this for years!" CreationDate="2010-09-09T00:46:48.613" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3361" PostId="2242" Text="@Eruditass, thanks, edited my answer." CreationDate="2010-09-09T02:31:54.430" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3362" PostId="2300" Score="1" Text="+1, I'm also interested especially in the wireless solutions." CreationDate="2010-09-09T03:08:10.437" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3363" PostId="3173" Text="It doesn't necessarily *have* to be a MacHood, although that particular one maintains the aesthetic appeal of the CinemaDisplay, which was one of the reasons I purchased it in the first place. ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-09T06:51:19.147" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3364" PostId="3025" Text="AF 1.8D, with aperture ring" CreationDate="2010-09-09T10:22:27.427" UserId="120" />
  <row Id="3365" PostId="1606" Text="There is a little bit of discussion on this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/713/timelapse-without-in-camera-support" CreationDate="2010-09-09T12:52:07.393" UserId="93" />
  <row Id="3366" PostId="3188" Score="1" Text="As far as I know the HDR mode on the iPhone 4 will result in, on average, twice the size. Two JPEG files are saved, one being the EV+0 photo, and the other being the HDR photo (so that you can compare and choose the better one later.) I doubt they save the image in a format with higher bit depth." CreationDate="2010-09-09T14:42:40.307" UserId="890" />
  <row Id="3367" PostId="1841" Score="2" Text="The company you're talking about is Silicon Film." CreationDate="2010-09-09T14:59:03.680" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3368" PostId="1841" Text="You can trace the history of it with some links here http://www.dpreview.com/news/0109/01091702siliconfilmvaporizes.asp" CreationDate="2010-09-09T16:22:09.287" UserId="440" />
  <row Id="3369" PostId="3137" Score="2" Text="Or when the subject is low contrast/difficult lighting. Try taking pictures of icicles and watch the AF search like mad." CreationDate="2010-09-09T17:10:54.693" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="3370" PostId="3173" Score="1" Text="Picky picky...." CreationDate="2010-09-09T18:00:09.293" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3371" PostId="3029" Score="1" Text="2 other areas it makes much better: panning (you can isolate the blur to one plane much easier) and airshows or other events where you are constantly aiming up.  With IS, you can go to even lower speeds than just IS if you use good technique (not just having the monopod straight up).  Also, they make for good walking sticks.  " CreationDate="2010-09-09T19:04:40.033" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3372" PostId="1841" Text="Thanks -- that's the one all right. Rereading the old coverage, my memory was obviously wrong on one point: they apparently did produce a prototype that worked to at least some degree." CreationDate="2010-09-09T20:44:14.350" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="3373" PostId="3182" Text="Just a quick note...you equate 35mm to 24mp, and would only print a 35mm image at A4 size for gallery. An unscaled 24mp digital image would easily print natively (unscaled in any direction) at A3+ size (13x19&quot;), and retain maximum quality. Given the nature of digital noise and its differences to film grain, I would expect at least the same, if not better, quality than a 35mm film enlargement to A4 or A3+. I would expect that a 24mp digital image could be blown to considerably larger size without any noticeable loss in detail at common view distances, even for a gallery." CreationDate="2010-09-09T23:34:35.423" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3374" PostId="3182" Text="@jrista my typo - I meant A3..." CreationDate="2010-09-10T07:58:56.773" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3377" PostId="3017" Score="2" Text="That's three degrees of freedom rather than six: a monopod restricts pitch, roll, and vertical movement, leaving forward/backwards and sideways movement, as well as yaw.  " CreationDate="2010-09-10T08:45:00.637" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3378" PostId="3163" Text="Also, clever use of autoexposure lock can yield good results in a hurry. Just expose for something mid-grey, recompose, focus, and shoot." CreationDate="2010-09-10T08:52:54.307" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3380" PostId="3196" Score="3" Text="Chris is right! http://www.clustershot.com/rustyedwardson/photo481267" CreationDate="2010-09-10T11:31:37.347" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3382" PostId="2881" Text="I'll try to find the right cost/benefit ratio for my needs, but yes, this is the way! thanks" CreationDate="2010-09-10T14:24:55.730" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="3384" PostId="2908" Text="Indeed; I've had my camera for about 3 months and have already shot over 10k frames." CreationDate="2010-09-10T15:48:04.083" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3385" PostId="3147" Text="I have this exact model. It's not huge - it fits my d3000 and three lenses, but without much breathing room. It also has some padding, but not a whole lot. It's inexpensive; I believe I spent about $30 on it." CreationDate="2010-09-10T15:55:49.310" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3386" PostId="3182" Text="@Rowland: Makes a lot more sense now! :D" CreationDate="2010-09-10T16:26:22.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3387" PostId="3051" Text="Good answer, hope you don't mind my edit. I think the rotating front element is nowadays rather an exception than a rule." CreationDate="2010-09-10T17:28:12.973" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3388" PostId="3194" Text="This looks promising. Seems LiquaVista just manufactures the panels, but they don't appear to make any devices. Do you know of any picture frames that use this?" CreationDate="2010-09-10T18:54:12.150" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3390" PostId="3044" Text="Are we talking non-extending **zoom**, or non-extending **focus**? I know of lenses that do not extend during focus, but I think that *zoom* still requires extension to one degree or another. Even if it is in a &quot;non-extending tube&quot;, such as the Canon EF 16-35mm L II, there is still extension regarding zoom. Focus, however, is often all-internal with enclosed moving groups. I guess I'm just confused on the real subject matter here." CreationDate="2010-09-10T19:44:04.477" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3391" PostId="3173" Score="1" Text="Yes, yes. That stems from the graphic/interior design aspects of my mentality. :P I like nice stuff to be nice. :D" CreationDate="2010-09-10T19:54:09.623" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3392" PostId="3120" Text="Can you add an example here?" CreationDate="2010-09-10T20:01:59.177" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3393" PostId="3106" Score="1" Text="A DSLR is always going to produce better shots than a P&amp;S, regardless of photographer. They're made for that. Sensor, noise, focusing, lenses etc. Unless someone makes a full frame point &amp; shoot :P" CreationDate="2010-09-10T20:49:53.630" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3394" PostId="3212" Text="The 666th question. ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-11T03:14:50.873" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3395" PostId="3213" Text="I'm not really sure what the exchange rate is between Canada and the US, although I believe it is pretty flat right now. The prices at Vistek seem radically extreme. The Lee Filter Foundation kit is about $75 here, but its listed at $170 at Vistek. The ND soft grad kit (.3,.6,.9) is about $240 here, but its listed as $419 at Vistek. Other stuff is similarly expensive. Those prices sound really outrageous. Am I seeing the right kind of prices?" CreationDate="2010-09-11T03:27:09.817" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3396" PostId="3213" Text="Henrys seems to have a similar problem...their prices are a bit cheaper, but still nearly twice as much as the prices here in the US." CreationDate="2010-09-11T03:30:04.977" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3397" PostId="3212" Text="... *shudder* ... o_o" CreationDate="2010-09-11T03:30:32.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3398" PostId="3213" Text="Yeah, they're expensive, more than I would expect and definitely not in line with the exchange rate (which is less than $0.05 these days). However, you didn't specify cheap, just available! :)" CreationDate="2010-09-11T04:32:42.047" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3400" PostId="3110" Text="I bought one of these after this question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1441/is-the-d90-worth-the-extra-money-for-a-beginner I have been very impressed." CreationDate="2010-09-11T15:47:06.823" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="3401" PostId="3213" Text="Aye, I did specify 'available'. ;P If they were a *little* more expensive, I'd go for it...but its kind of hard to justify nearly twice the price. I wonder if tariffs are involved in those prices somehow... I did find some of what I needed on B&amp;H. They had ONE of the ND sets that I need in stock, as well as a 77mm adapter for the foundation kit. They are not allowing purchases until 8:30 ET...I'll be waiting with baited breath to click the &quot;purchase&quot; button as soon as it is available...hopefully no one else is trying to buy the same thing. Seems LEE stuff is perpetually backordered." CreationDate="2010-09-11T17:58:59.600" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3402" PostId="3220" Score="3" Text="I think the stuff you're choosing between are usually called licences, not copyrights." CreationDate="2010-09-11T21:33:15.150" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3403" PostId="3224" Text="It's a nice idea that pictures for free attract people who want to give you money, but has that actually happened to you?" CreationDate="2010-09-11T21:36:34.630" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3404" PostId="3226" Text="This does not appear to be a question. Who's &quot;earlier post&quot;? If this was intended to be a comment on another question, please post it as a comment on that question." CreationDate="2010-09-11T22:02:07.910" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3405" PostId="3226" Text="yes, sorry...my question is I have a quantaray QTB 7500A with it says module CN AF with manual and TTL auto settings...it doesn't seem to be recognizing my canon rebel xsi camera?  says it doesn't recognize external flash...can I get a new module to go with QTB 7500A?" CreationDate="2010-09-11T22:10:15.807" />
  <row Id="3406" PostId="3229" Text="Thanks, that's exactly what I'm looking for." CreationDate="2010-09-12T00:13:03.923" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="3407" PostId="3222" Text="Not sure if this is technically a photography question, but this was the only place I could find to ask it." CreationDate="2010-09-12T00:13:32.530" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="3408" PostId="3212" Text="Some how seems fitting :)" CreationDate="2010-09-12T01:42:03.547" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3409" PostId="3213" Text="Or possibly, those specific filters are in short-supply and so the prices reflect that." CreationDate="2010-09-12T01:44:13.010" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3411" PostId="3116" Text="Thanks!  I'll probably go with the professional cleaning." CreationDate="2010-09-12T04:30:12.967" UserId="752" />
  <row Id="3413" PostId="3196" Text="I wish I wasn't right." CreationDate="2010-09-12T13:12:49.943" UserId="626" />
  <row Id="3414" PostId="3241" Text="Here's a link to the RS-5, just in case anyone else is intrigued: http://www.blackrapid.com/product/camera-strap/rs-5/" CreationDate="2010-09-12T13:28:03.640" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3416" PostId="3235" Score="1" Text="If he can see it through the viewfinder, it isn't going to be on the sensor..." CreationDate="2010-09-12T16:51:19.630" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3417" PostId="3212" Text="@Alan: :\ ....?" CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:04:09.603" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3418" PostId="181" Text="re: clarification: suggest editing your answer rather than commenting." CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:06:52.810" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3419" PostId="3235" Text="but still, it's a good general answer to this question." CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:08:46.457" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="3421" PostId="3224" Score="1" Text="yes. it's also part of a long term strategy to get my images seen so people recognize the name, so that when I do start trying to market my material full time I have a larger audience to market to. " CreationDate="2010-09-12T17:43:07.060" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="3423" PostId="3249" Score="4" Text="How do you sync the flash? Do you mean that you just press the shutter button and then try to manually activate the flash in time to light the picture?" CreationDate="2010-09-12T18:26:39.500" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3424" PostId="3248" Score="2" Text="Well, the &quot;sunny 16&quot; belongs to a time when BW film with wide latitude was shot (and also with possibilities to compensate during enlargement). I wouldn't trust it to verify my calibrated meter." CreationDate="2010-09-12T18:46:28.577" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3425" PostId="3247" Text="Another camera is also an option to check. Just be sure you're metering from evenly lit area." CreationDate="2010-09-12T18:49:52.033" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3426" PostId="3247" Text="I've only film bodies to go against, although I guess I don't have to actually fire the shutter..." CreationDate="2010-09-12T19:06:06.177" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3427" PostId="3247" Text="@Rowland: For meter testing? Probably not, it's simply seeing what the camera has decided is the best exposure. If you did want to fire the trigger to fully check, you could do one with the camera choice and one with the meter choice and compare the result." CreationDate="2010-09-12T19:40:29.607" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3428" PostId="3248" Text="I don't think the rule is restricted to BW film. Plenty of the modern digital landscape photography books I own still discuss &quot;Sunny 16&quot;. It is by no means a highly accurate method of verifying the built in meter calibration, but if you don't have an additional incident meter, it might give you a starting point to determine if you should get an incident meter and do a more accurate comparison." CreationDate="2010-09-12T21:28:47.773" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3429" PostId="3252" Text="Whoa.  That is a hefty price tag-- does it save you headaches?  Is this the kind of thing that if I low-ball my price, I'll end up regretting it in time and prints lost?  What other calibrators/systems have you tried?" CreationDate="2010-09-12T21:33:21.660" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3430" PostId="3252" Text="The price tag for the Spider3Studio is about $550, which isn't too bad for a complete solution. I have not tried any other printer calibration systems, however I did quite a bit of research before I chose. It came down to the X-Rite and the DataColor offerings. The much cheaper DataColor solution does what I need, and it seems to be pretty accurate. I've been using the 225 patch options so far, but it also offers more accurate 729 patch options if you need a more specific calibration. The monitor calibration is stellar, never had problems with the Spyder3 there. I used a Spyder3 Pro before." CreationDate="2010-09-12T21:43:40.090" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3432" PostId="1751" Text="Thank you, this helped me a lot." CreationDate="2010-09-12T23:32:19.603" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3433" PostId="3254" Text="Don't underestimate the effect of natural light for macro work.  Some claim it gives a certain 3d effect.  Of course, one would still use a flash, but just lower the power / diffuse it more and not use it as 90% of the light source (thus rendering shutter speed unimportant).  " CreationDate="2010-09-13T06:07:39.233" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3435" PostId="3254" Text="I do have a closeup lens already (Canon 500D), unfortunately the lenses I have seem to have a pretty faraway focal point, so although it helps, I was looking for an alternative." CreationDate="2010-09-13T13:29:13.003" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3436" PostId="3254" Text="re: IS -- I've been using F16-F22 in recent days + a lot of the time it puts exposure times in the 1/40-1/20s range where IS is a huge win + I don't have to resort to flash (natural light looks much better)." CreationDate="2010-09-13T13:30:52.300" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3437" PostId="3254" Score="1" Text="@Eruditass: Oh, I definitely don't doubt the power of natural light for macro. A ring flash would be for highlights and fill, and to provide some motion-stopping. I would say shutter speed is still important...even with flash, expose for too long, and you get odd ghost/translucent subject effects. I've encountered these myself, and I have a topic here on Photo.SE about it." CreationDate="2010-09-13T16:35:14.843" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3438" PostId="3268" Score="1" Text="I'm just wondering why would you would want to edit that? It indicates what exposure mode the camera was using when taking the picture, so normally it doesn't make any sense to change that." CreationDate="2010-09-13T21:45:38.783" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3440" PostId="3275" Score="1" Text="Are you planning on posting these images online afterwards or is this just for storage?" CreationDate="2010-09-14T00:38:53.543" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3441" PostId="3254" Text="@jrista: Hence the arbitrary 90% figure I mentioned.  If you expose longer, natural light will begin to account for more than 10% of the image and the ghosting will be visible.  The numbers are estimates." CreationDate="2010-09-14T06:36:56.080" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3442" PostId="3279" Text="This is something that is usually covered in the manual. Maybe have a look there to find the answer." CreationDate="2010-09-14T11:15:32.493" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3443" PostId="3282" Text="Thanks for your answer! It would be nice if you could clarify why a fast 50mm lens is good for a beginner. (I'm not a native english speaker and also unsure about what a *fast 50mm* is. Is it a lens with fixed focal length so no zoom-in/out possible? Whats the benefit of these lenses?)" CreationDate="2010-09-14T11:43:22.760" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3444" PostId="3282" Score="2" Text="&quot;Fast&quot; is referring to the wider maximum aperture (f/1.8 vs f/3.5 on the kits).  This means that it can be used in lower light and improves the focusing speed. The 50mm is a fixed focal length, so no zoom. I'd suggest reading more if you are considering this route: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1922/definition-of-a-prime-lens" CreationDate="2010-09-14T12:03:19.873" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3445" PostId="3282" Score="2" Text="I'd disagree -- it depends entirely on the kit lens. " CreationDate="2010-09-14T12:51:12.897" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3446" PostId="3284" Text="Seems TinEye works based on exact and modified images, rather than similar creatures, but that's still pretty cool." CreationDate="2010-09-14T13:16:34.967" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3447" PostId="3228" Text="Thanks for the concise, honest answer.  I appreciate the clarification between copyright and license.  This helps a lot." CreationDate="2010-09-14T13:49:15.090" UserId="205" />
  <row Id="3448" PostId="3224" Text="Thanks for the insight into the microstock world.  Definitely gives me a lot to think about.  Apparently, I haven't done as much research as I should have." CreationDate="2010-09-14T13:50:07.290" UserId="205" />
  <row Id="3449" PostId="3284" Text="TinEye tries to search *this* image, not some image looking like it or containing the same stuff, so if you took a picture of a plant yourself, tineye will be of no use (unless you upload it, someone else steals it, writes the latin names to the image and you find the stolen image with the latin names)." CreationDate="2010-09-14T14:49:36.220" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3450" PostId="3294" Score="3" Text="To put it another way: raw lets you postpone less important decisions for later, (instead of missing a shot due to fiddling with colour settings)." CreationDate="2010-09-14T16:57:21.733" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3451" PostId="15" Score="3" Text="It's **raw** *not* &quot;RAW&quot;. Raw is a **word**, not an acronym; **it does not need to be capitalised**." CreationDate="2010-09-14T16:58:20.090" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3452" PostId="3228" Text="Glad I could be helpful!" CreationDate="2010-09-14T17:19:07.880" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3454" PostId="3297" Score="1" Text="The real question is: Given that you can save a copy of a RAW file as JPEG later, why would you ever shoot JPEG? RAW+JPEG only really does one thing: consume more space. Sure, those jpegs are small, but hundreds of them consume quite a bit of space, and don't really buy you anything, since you can create them on demand from the RAW versions if you need them." CreationDate="2010-09-14T17:30:14.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3455" PostId="3279" Score="1" Text="In 500D it's &quot;auto power-off time&quot; in the menus, by default 30 sec. It isn't specific to the live view, but it also controls the frustrating feature that you described." CreationDate="2010-09-14T17:39:05.213" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="3456" PostId="3297" Text="Consume what space? I've already pointed out space isn't an issue. Unlike time, which can be important - it takes time to convert NEF raw files to JPEG (even assuming you're at a machine that can do so!). If someone needs a quick copy of images I can plug an SD card into their laptop and give them the JPEGs, and it's fine.  Once you've got the files on your own machine and processed the raw images, maybe the JPEGs are then redundant, but that doesn't mean they're not potentially useful in the first place." CreationDate="2010-09-14T17:48:32.687" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3457" PostId="32" Score="1" Text="I think that fixing white balance in post processing can cost you a lot of color palette, as this is the place when 12 bits per channel start to show." CreationDate="2010-09-14T17:56:31.977" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3458" PostId="1841" Score="1" Text="I actually got to use a couple of Silicon Film's prototypes, so I know they worked.  I knew someone who worked for them,  they lost their funding and closed shop" CreationDate="2010-09-14T18:52:53.220" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="3459" PostId="3279" Text="@Gregmuellegger I looked pretty seriously through the manual and could not find it." CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:11:02.883" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3460" PostId="3279" Text="@Jukka, that was it, thank you!" CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:11:31.760" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3461" PostId="3279" Score="1" Text="@Jukka you should add that as an answer, to earn the reputation from having the right answer :)" CreationDate="2010-09-14T20:18:16.177" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3462" PostId="3293" Text="The Pocketwizard website claims their method is actually better (more accurate) than the Canon flashes built in second curtain sync: http://www.pocketwizard.com/inspirations/technology/rear_curtain_sync/" CreationDate="2010-09-14T21:18:24.090" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3463" PostId="115" Score="2" Text="Largest advantage of RAW, imho, is the preservation of detail in the shadows.  Due to the 2^12 or so values not being truncated to 256, JPEG's shadow restoration is, well, lacking." CreationDate="2010-09-14T21:46:34.093" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3464" PostId="3297" Text="I guess if you actually need to plug your SD into someone's laptop to share the images. I'm not sure how realistic that is, or if its only a hypothetical. Hypothetically, sure, capturing RAW+JPEG can be useful...my question is, is it REALLY that useful, or is it just a hypothetical for arguments sake? At least in my own work, I would never give anyone a copy of anything until I've had a chance to properly review the shots and at least pick the useful ones. If a client needed a quick preview, it is easy enough to batch output jpegs for my picks." CreationDate="2010-09-14T22:56:34.760" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3465" PostId="3226" Text="I think she was refering to a question I'd asked at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2124/105" CreationDate="2010-09-14T23:23:39.417" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="3466" PostId="3301" Score="4" Text="...but it's such a beautiful sound! :-(" CreationDate="2010-09-14T23:24:15.857" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3467" PostId="3297" Score="1" Text="Well technically I've only done it with a USB CF reader, but simplifying that aspect for arguments sake. It's not hypothetical. I've given someone an image for them to use as a desktop backdrop - they don't care/need a higher quality one, or showing a slideshow of images, no waiting required, with Windows Photo Viewer.  Not everyone is paranoid about people seeing their unreviewed images." CreationDate="2010-09-14T23:58:31.650" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3468" PostId="3299" Text="Aye, Lee filters are finely crafted tools. Thats why I chose them, they seemed to have a solid work ethic and there is certainly no question about the quality of their stuff. One thing I didn't research before I bought the system, however, was the availability of their stuff. Non-standard filters are easy enough to get, but the foundation kit, tandem kit, ring adapters, ND/NDGrad, and Coral/Coral Grad filters seem to be notoriously difficult to find in stock anywhere." CreationDate="2010-09-15T03:39:21.340" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3469" PostId="3299" Text="As a side note, this would have probably been best as a comment, rather than an answer." CreationDate="2010-09-15T03:40:23.057" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3470" PostId="3300" Text="My 450D seem to turn off Live View at varying intervals. I am not certain why, however it seems to depend on the various exposure settings, primarily ISO. I am guessing it is adaptively trying to prevent any damage to to overheating...so its probably capped at 30 minutes, but primarily based on some kind of temperature sensor." CreationDate="2010-09-15T03:42:08.560" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3471" PostId="3303" Score="1" Text="Actually sound proof enclosures do exist, they're expensive but they work and are used in areas where shutter noise absolutely must be eliminated, such as on a live set or classical concert: http://soundblimp.com/" CreationDate="2010-09-15T07:12:39.350" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3472" PostId="3304" Score="1" Text="Pay attention to the fact that live view exposes the sensor for a long time, increasing the long exposure noise as the sensor warms up :)" CreationDate="2010-09-15T08:03:30.840" UserId="1022" />
  <row Id="3474" PostId="3304" Text="@AlberT: Good point. Each method of course have drawbacks, like that with the first method the viewfinder goes black once you have folded up the mirror, and with the second method autofocus is a lot slower." CreationDate="2010-09-15T09:49:09.240" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3475" PostId="3268" Text="@Guffa (and grm): I was asking myself the same question!" CreationDate="2010-09-15T11:54:08.480" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3476" PostId="3297" Text="Space and shooting time might not be an issue for you, but it is for others. For sports shooting you often need high burst speed and nothing is worse than losing a shot because the cam is still writing. And bigger file sizes slow down card backup, too." CreationDate="2010-09-15T13:03:49.323" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3477" PostId="611" Score="1" Text="This debate is occurring because one side equates &quot;quality&quot; with &quot;information&quot; and the other implicitly recognizes that quality usually has other technical attributes.  For instance, sharpening can lose information but enhance quality--even for scientific imaging." CreationDate="2010-09-15T15:38:10.183" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="3478" PostId="3309" Score="3" Text="Whilst a good point, this is a reason to switch to Open standards, not to switch away from raw. Ideally camera manufacturers will be pressured to start using DNG (or similar) - some do already, see http://www.barrypearson.co.uk/articles/dng/products.htm#manufacturers" CreationDate="2010-09-15T17:10:10.037" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3479" PostId="3297" Score="1" Text="Sam, I've updated that part of my answer - a professional DSLR can give a 20-30 frame burst at 6-10fps - which is plenty for the majority of cases. If you're in a particular niche that needs more than 3s at 10fps of images, but still needs DSLR over video, then going JPEG-only makes sense. However, for most people filling the buffer is simply not an issue." CreationDate="2010-09-15T17:44:03.740" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3480" PostId="3304" Text="I hadn't thought about using the liveview in that way - thanks for the suggestion" CreationDate="2010-09-15T19:37:26.613" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="3481" PostId="3305" Text="I wonder if the new D7000 will have this feature?" CreationDate="2010-09-15T19:38:42.757" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="3482" PostId="3310" Text="+1 for local botanical gardens.  Don't limit yourself to universities though.  Here in California, there are some great Botanical gardens such as Huntington Library, Balboa Park, etc..." CreationDate="2010-09-15T21:28:12.250" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="3483" PostId="3268" Text="I think he wants to cheat." CreationDate="2010-09-16T06:04:21.667" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3484" PostId="3320" Score="14" Text="Yep, and remember that &quot;on Google Images&quot; does *not* mean public domain." CreationDate="2010-09-16T07:49:17.723" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3485" PostId="114" Text="Yeah, this is the way I've ended up going. 90% of the time I'm either happy with the shot, or the things that are wrong with it can't be fixed by fiddling with the RAW file; not having the extra workflow 90% of the time is great.  The other 10% of the time, well, it's great to have the original." CreationDate="2010-09-16T08:12:37.923" UserId="1349" />
  <row Id="3486" PostId="3310" Text="@BillN - In France most botanical gardens have been initiated in XVIII or XIX century by explorers/researchers with university support. That is why I mention it. But any botanical garden is OK of course." CreationDate="2010-09-16T08:19:01.573" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="3487" PostId="3273" Text="I didn't think this was possible. I have my Lightroom 3 set to auto-convert to DNG on import, but it only does that for RAW files - JPG files stay as JPG." CreationDate="2010-09-16T10:13:33.043" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="3488" PostId="3312" Score="1" Text="I wouldn't use an f/1.4 lens (or any other lens wide open) as this might produce soft images or soft corners (especially with wideangle fast lenses). Using a tripod would make the whole process much easier, so a longer exposure can be used to ensure you get enough light." CreationDate="2010-09-16T11:24:28.540" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3489" PostId="3312" Score="1" Text="Also if the maths scares you, you can simply judge how far to move by shooting a few test shots and measuring how far you need to move the camera to get a good overlap between shots (1/3 overlap is a good figure to aim for)." CreationDate="2010-09-16T11:28:21.700" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3490" PostId="3309" Score="1" Text="Whilst I'm all for open standards I don't find the fears of digital obsolescence credible. Enthusiasts and the open source community have managed to reverse engineer even the most arcane and seemly impenetrable file formats. DCraw is an open source raw converter, the source code of which is unlikely to ever be lost, plus in the age of virtual machines it will be possible to keep the original conversion binaries going indefinitely, regardless of what future software/hardware changes happen." CreationDate="2010-09-16T11:45:55.237" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3491" PostId="3325" Text="Recuva appears to expect a known filesystem (i.e. FAT32, NTFS) before it can scan the card's drive. My card's filesystem is corrupt." CreationDate="2010-09-16T15:53:58.163" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="3492" PostId="3312" Text="Softness at wide apertures is largely dependent upon build quality. Cheaper lenses do tend to get soft, however there are some fantastic fast lenses, f/1.2 and f/1.4 in the Canon L series line of lenses, that are relatively very sharp wide open. Also, an f/1.4 or f/1.2 lens allows you to stop down a bit to get better sharpness and still have a fast aperture, vs. a slower lens which wouldn't give you that leeway. A tripod is essential, however you run the risk of someone passing through your shot if you expose longer, and longer shots mean more time to complete the whole sequence." CreationDate="2010-09-16T16:16:20.617" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3493" PostId="3312" Text="Regarding the math, I think its important for photographers to understand a little bit of it, given that what we do all the time is work with angles and distances and widths. Thats why I try to throw out a little trig every now and then, with a clear explanation of how it works, so people can have more knowledge to draw on in the field." CreationDate="2010-09-16T16:19:17.197" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3494" PostId="3316" Score="2" Text="Thanks Chuqui. At least I wasn't totally out of my mind. (I'm out of votes for the day, so as soon as I am able to up vote, I will. ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-16T18:24:38.270" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3495" PostId="3323" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/recover-deleted-photos-from-an-sd-card" CreationDate="2010-09-16T18:29:46.167" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3497" PostId="3312" Text="Even the best lenses suffer from softness and other defects (e.g. vignetting) wide open, when compared to their peak performance. Anyway you're right that just using an f/1.4 lens doesn't mean you have to shoot it wide open, you would expect better performance at f/2.8 for example. I don't think passers by will be a big problem when using longer exposures, at f/5.6 ISO400 your exposure wont be more than 1 or 2 seconds even in the worse indoor lighting so hopefully you wont have that many passers by! P.S. Personally I love doing the maths :) " CreationDate="2010-09-16T18:45:29.553" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3498" PostId="3312" Text="Take a look at the EF 50 f/1.2 L. Its peak performance is between f/1.2 and f/2.8, and if falls off after that. It has some of the most superb wide-open performance of any f/1.2 lens I've ever used. There is obviously some vignetting, however that is very easy to manage in post processing, especially with software that supports lens profiles. The vignetting of a wide lens can easily be eliminated before stitching. I do agree though that in general, wide lenses suffer from softness and vignetting which can make them less useful at max aperture." CreationDate="2010-09-16T19:14:36.527" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3499" PostId="3320" Score="1" Text="@Peter - yes, the whole concept of &quot;public domain&quot; is widely misused.  There are a wide variety of attribution and licensing agreements (creative commons, etc.) that are &quot;free&quot; but not &quot;public domain&quot;.  PD is actually defined rather narrowly, and is pretty rare.  @Dian, unless stated otherwise by the photo author, assume that the only portion you have &quot;copyright&quot; over is the portion that you actually create." CreationDate="2010-09-16T20:13:55.480" UserId="1406" />
  <row Id="3500" PostId="3332" Text="Have you tried photo filter adjustment layers in photoshop? They simulate actual warming and cooling filters." CreationDate="2010-09-16T21:18:54.600" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3501" PostId="3335" Score="3" Text="I saw that posting too, seems as reasonable an explanation as any. Anyways, I tend to agree with you, it's generally not really meaningful in actual practice, it's something for measurebators to argue over." CreationDate="2010-09-16T21:45:33.700" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3502" PostId="774" Text="What (commercial) software do you use on Linux?" CreationDate="2010-09-16T22:42:40.777" UserId="1408" />
  <row Id="3504" PostId="3339" Score="1" Text="They are the same.  The FOV numbers you have would equal a 28.8e-88e (The FOV of a 28.8mm-88mm lens on a full-frame)" CreationDate="2010-09-16T23:50:16.240" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3505" PostId="3339" Text="So focal length is always going to be the physical focal length and the manufacturer wouldn't ever specify it at it's &quot;crop effective&quot; focal length?" CreationDate="2010-09-16T23:52:07.617" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3507" PostId="3340" Text="Thanks. I was merely curious to know if they specify the focal length in &quot;effective&quot; focal length." CreationDate="2010-09-16T23:54:06.710" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3508" PostId="3340" Score="2" Text="SLR lenses are almost always specified using the actual focal length, whereas compact cameras are almost always specified in terms of the 35mm equivalent (the sensors are so small the actual lenses are something like 5mm-15mm). As an SLR owner you are trusted to do the FOV conversions yourself ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-17T00:17:04.963" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3509" PostId="3339" Score="1" Text="Correct, except when specifically noted (pretty much just fixed-lens small-sensor cameras like a P&amp;S)" CreationDate="2010-09-17T00:28:38.067" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3510" PostId="3340" Text="The videographer at my friend's wedding got some stunning results out of his 1.8 50mm on a 5DII :)" CreationDate="2010-09-17T02:46:53.490" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3511" PostId="3320" Text="@Alan: Okay, thanks.   @Peter: I know, my deviantart pics get stolen though google images sometimes.   @GalacticCowboy: Okay, got that, thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-17T07:37:03.227" UserId="1207" />
  <row Id="3512" PostId="3343" Score="3" Text="friendly reminder, adding a signature line to your posts is strongly discouraged as per the FAQ: http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq" CreationDate="2010-09-17T07:57:21.990" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3513" PostId="3343" Score="2" Text="Since the question is tagged photoshop, why would you assume they didn't have it and want to use it?" CreationDate="2010-09-17T09:35:50.030" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3514" PostId="3334" Text="That's handy to know, as the friend in question has Paint Shop Pro, so I can train them to do it themselves :)" CreationDate="2010-09-17T10:56:22.630" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3515" PostId="3341" Score="2" Text="I didn't realise that you could load JPEGs via camera raw." CreationDate="2010-09-17T11:01:32.463" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3516" PostId="596" Text="I read in a review that it has very bad barrel distortions in wideangle and superzoom focal length. Do you agree with this? It seems that it also has big Color Aberration at 200mm but which can be fixed in post processing if you shoot in RAW. There is an alternative from Sigma (18-250mm) which is better at this but bad in sharpness." CreationDate="2010-09-17T11:08:07.723" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3517" PostId="3344" Text="I figured as much, I just wasn't *entirely* sure. These answers cleared it up, thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-17T11:37:08.797" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3518" PostId="3323" Text="I did see that question but I did not possess fundamental understanding about the differences between CF and SD card recording formats (not OS filesystem), and if raw card readers need to do anything special." CreationDate="2010-09-17T13:48:00.000" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="3519" PostId="3326" Score="1" Text="I used PhotoRec to recover my files thanks. Great that it's free, so guess cannot complain about the lack of a GUI." CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:00:27.767" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="3520" PostId="3324" Text="The filesystem table itself somehow got corrupt. I have been testing out the various utilities and they can retrieve the data files." CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:01:23.977" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="3521" PostId="3301" Text="you should hear the Canon xxxD/Rebel series - like a cartoon." CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:06:28.840" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="3522" PostId="3324" Text="This software is more user-friendly than the open-source TestDisk, so i'd recommend for non-tech-saavy folks. Otherwise, TestDisk/Photorec can still get by with reasonable software experience." CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:10:11.893" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="3523" PostId="3346" Text="I've not seen any external card reader that didn't connect via USB? even the internal ones I've seen use an internal USB connector..." CreationDate="2010-09-17T14:38:37.553" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3524" PostId="3346" Text="I'm not sure about internal readers (my assumption is that these are over internal USB), but there are external non-USB readers. They're more expensive and use slightly less common ports, so most people wont use them - only those after the extra speed. (I've added a couple of links to my answer)" CreationDate="2010-09-17T15:23:35.897" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3525" PostId="3335" Score="1" Text="I have to agree. The more I learn about photography gear, the more I realize how little all the micro-measurements matter. Distortion, slight vignetting, base/native ISO, etc. are all pretty meaningless in the real world. Those that do have a visible effect can usually be corrected in post-processing these days, often automatically with the advent of lens profiles for various software. They may matter for scientific purposes, but its unlikely any scientific project would use any commercial grade equipment." CreationDate="2010-09-17T16:15:06.583" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3526" PostId="3339" Text="I don't think we should use the 'e' notation. Any random reader who comes here from google or bing is not going to know what that means. Its a hyper-niche notation only used here on our site. " CreationDate="2010-09-17T16:18:26.283" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3527" PostId="3346" Score="1" Text="There is one external card-reader that is FW800 based made by sandisk. It's pretty rare to find in stores (usually you need to order it online). Everything is pretty much now USB2.0 (with USB3.0 on the horizon).  " CreationDate="2010-09-17T16:25:02.040" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3528" PostId="3328" Text="I corrected my question to non-destructive vs destructive edits." CreationDate="2010-09-17T19:08:52.820" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3529" PostId="3331" Text="I'm probably wandering too deep into philosophy, but if RAW itself is a destructive representation of reality, then we photographers should try to retain as much as we could. And think about it before the shot, not rely on all the fancy things we can do non-destructively later, because we've already destroyed a lot of the original during the capture." CreationDate="2010-09-17T19:56:17.413" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3530" PostId="3339" Score="1" Text="Isn't the point to spread it around? I did offer a short explanation as to what it meant." CreationDate="2010-09-17T20:05:26.733" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3531" PostId="3331" Text="I don't recall stating that RAW itself is a destructive representation of reality. Perhaps a better way to put it is RAW is a &quot;limited&quot; representation of reality, although considerably less limited than many representations (i.e. JPEG, or even Film). I do agree that as photographers, we should do what we can to preserve as much about our scene as we can. However, to preserve the &quot;most&quot; with RAW, that usually means taking a shot that does not &quot;look correct&quot; initially, fundamentally requiring some post-processing to **interpret** the information we have captured as realistically as possible." CreationDate="2010-09-17T20:57:06.050" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3532" PostId="3331" Text="Its all about interpretation. RAW is just information about reality that has substance but no real form, and how we interpret that information, what form we give it, determines how realistic and true-to-life the final shot looks. " CreationDate="2010-09-17T20:58:04.863" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3533" PostId="3349" Text="Not sure about the &quot;Quality vs cost&quot; comment. I think part of the reason many photographers make their own prints is to eek every las ounce of quality that they can out of a print. (Many have wide-format printers capable of wide gamut, canvas and roll printing, etc., and many do their own print calibration, often with very precise equipment, and the cost is not very high.) Sometimes, you get what you get with a lab, since you don't control all the factors, and quality, while it may be good, may also not necessarily be the best it could be." CreationDate="2010-09-17T21:01:53.237" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3534" PostId="3349" Score="1" Text="@jrista: I agree with your assertion, but let me clarify what I meant. There is a huge price difference between a wide-format printer for home-use, and the ones employed by professional labs. You can buy better quality printers, but the price increases. You only begin to recoup your costs after you print a lot of images. When you order a print from a pro lab, you only pay a fraction of that cost. So the quality is higher, for a lower cost at a lab." CreationDate="2010-09-17T21:55:12.013" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3535" PostId="3346" Text="@Rowland: Who said it was external? I have internal readers on a few of my machines and not all are USB connected, some are on the PCI bus." CreationDate="2010-09-17T23:04:28.107" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3536" PostId="3349" Text="@Alan: I understand what your saying, however despite the fact that there are &quot;wider&quot; printers that cost a ton and are usually used by professional labs, my point is that they are not necessarily higher quality. As an example, the upper end of the &quot;consumer/home pro&quot; lines from Epson and Canon tend to offer higher maximum quality than the top of the line wide format commercial printers. A Canon iPF8300 costing $6000 has a lot of powerful features for commercial entities, but has a maximum DPI of 2400x1200. It uses Lucia Pigment Ink." CreationDate="2010-09-18T01:29:49.080" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3537" PostId="3349" Score="1" Text="@jrista: Right, so the cost of your first print is $6000+(materials). Where as the cost for a similar quality print at a lab is going to be $5-10. The OP is new to photography and printing, so the learning curve is going to reflect that. That is point I was trying to make. " CreationDate="2010-09-18T01:33:32.007" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3538" PostId="3349" Text="A Canon Pro9500 II, costing $700, has far fewer features, but has a maximum DPI of 4800x2400. It also uses Lucia Ink. From an image quality perspective, the higher DPI of the Pro9500 allows for more tonal range and smoother gradients than the imagePrograph. While you can definitely save yourself $700 (or $1200 if you want to have perfectly calibrated prints), and spend less per print with a lab, there really aren't any *quality* differences. There may be a quality bonus if you print images yourself, but you have to amortize the cost of the gear over its lifetime, so cost is higher at home." CreationDate="2010-09-18T01:34:45.217" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3539" PostId="3334" Text="@Rowland, I should also mention that there are other methods in Paint Shop Pro that might be simpler, but I prefer this method as it gives the most flexibility. The Manual Color Correction feature is hidden in later versions, you need to customize the menu or toolbar to bring it back." CreationDate="2010-09-18T02:07:06.713" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="3540" PostId="3349" Score="1" Text="@Jrista: Sorry, I did not mean that the lab prints would look any better than what you could do at home. You can get lab-quality prints at home. It's that ratio between quality and cost is actually higher with a lab (similar quality for lower cost). At $700, it starts to be a wash at around 70 prints (at full size, not including ink and paper costs). In order to get a similar upfront cost-ratio at home, you need to sacrifice quality (ie buying a cheap printer)" CreationDate="2010-09-18T02:31:31.883" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3541" PostId="3349" Text="@Alan: Gocha. I would call it &quot;Cost/Quality Ratio&quot; or &quot;Cost to Quality Ratio&quot; then, I think that would be a bit clearer. " CreationDate="2010-09-18T02:42:55.317" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3542" PostId="3351" Text="I'm not sure that either of those are true. Due to the algorithms involved for most applications, such as Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture, and similar tools, neither of those edits would be lossless. Scaling is never 100% perfect nearest-neighbor, there is always some interpolation simply due to how the algorithms work (nearest-neighbor is still a sampling algorithm). Even rotation incurs resampling in most image editing tools, so there also loss when rotating. Outside of writing ones own tools that use purposely non-destructive algorithms, I wouldn't bet on those two being lossless." CreationDate="2010-09-18T02:56:14.507" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3543" PostId="3349" Text="@jrista: good suggestion. Edited the answer to reflect that." CreationDate="2010-09-18T03:23:23.040" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3544" PostId="3349" Text="@Alan: T/Y! :-)" CreationDate="2010-09-18T04:09:25.657" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3545" PostId="3354" Score="2" Text="That is a very clear demonstration!  Thanks.  (This particular effect isn't relevant for my _specific_ case, but is clearly very important in the general case.)" CreationDate="2010-09-18T12:51:43.823" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="3546" PostId="3351" Score="1" Text="that's why I said &quot;by transforming each pixel into an identical 2x2 quad pixel&quot;" CreationDate="2010-09-18T14:07:16.353" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3547" PostId="3351" Score="1" Text="...and most image editing tools have a &quot;lossless rotation by 90 degrees&quot; function." CreationDate="2010-09-18T14:07:58.943" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3548" PostId="3263" Text="f:0.9 to f:1.2 is not only exceptional, but also extremely expensive!" CreationDate="2010-09-18T14:50:19.877" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3549" PostId="669" Text="Excellent explanation!" CreationDate="2010-09-18T14:58:01.133" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3550" PostId="3361" Text="I think this should be CW, but my understanding is, answers to CW questions are automatically made CW, and authors won't get rep. I'd like to see more opportunities for answers to get rep, so I am leaving this non-CW for now." CreationDate="2010-09-18T15:55:08.230" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3551" PostId="3358" Score="4" Text="What kind of photography do you intend to use it for?" CreationDate="2010-09-18T16:17:19.433" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3554" PostId="3354" Text="Another demonstration is the standard video shot, where the camera moves in as the operator zooms out, keeping subject size constant but appearing to &quot;expand&quot; the background through the shot. This is the main utility of zooms other than cropping: getting the perspective you want." CreationDate="2010-09-18T17:36:56.057" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="3555" PostId="3353" Text="If you adjust both zoom and distance to keep the subject the same size, then the subject magnification is a constant. If you also keep the f-stop the same, then your DOF is in fact unchanged.&#xA;&#xA;So your obvious answer is not correct." CreationDate="2010-09-18T17:45:57.413" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="3556" PostId="3352" Score="2" Text="Excellent answer, especially given how I've used your printer advice in the past.  I would add that the third party paper options can be much cheaper.  Red River papers can be had for a fraction of the cost of the official canon paper, and since you can calibrate for that paper with your profiler, you can go ahead and save there as well." CreationDate="2010-09-18T17:55:57.500" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3557" PostId="3358" Score="4" Text="Definitely not, mainly because no such lens exists. Did you mean EF 70-200 f/4 L or EF-S 18-200 f/3.5-5.6?" CreationDate="2010-09-18T19:36:57.867" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3558" PostId="3358" Text="Oh wow. I completely missed that huge typo..." CreationDate="2010-09-18T19:43:35.093" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3559" PostId="3352" Score="2" Text="Aye, I've started purchasing third-party papers. I actually should have pictured some. I am partial to Hahnemuhle, which is what the Canon Fine Art papers are anyway. The true stuff is about as expensive, but there are far more options directly from Hahnemuhle. I also like Museo DFA and Breathing Color, they have some nice fine art papers as well. I've never seen Red River, I'll have to look into them. I'm becoming a bit of a paper snob, but its amazing the variety of tone and texture available. This Spyder3Studio was definitely worth the $500...I'll be able to print on anything now." CreationDate="2010-09-18T19:51:35.507" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3560" PostId="3363" Score="3" Text="I voted to close this question. Nikon vs Canon questions will always boil down to subjective arguments not based on fact, but opinion, and religious zealotry." CreationDate="2010-09-18T19:55:00.570" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3561" PostId="3354" Text="This effect makes for interesting video when watching the Tour de France on TV. Often the background will grow while the cyclist shrinks." CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:19:10.697" UserId="1428" />
  <row Id="3562" PostId="3349" Text="Thanks, very constructive,the above certainly will help us make the decision wehave not yet made" CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:31:19.290" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="3563" PostId="3352" Text="Thanks jrista, once again you have supplied me with the information for making a measured decision. We have not yet decided if we need prints above 8.5&quot;&quot; by 11&quot;. I see your equipment allows you to go well beyond this. Is there an equivalent quality Canon Pixma printer as small as this?" CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:38:12.937" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="3564" PostId="3350" Text="Certainly Matt, your proceedures are the simplest outlined. Certainly we will be experimenting with your method prior to making any decision to purchase an expensive printer and all that goes with it." CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:42:15.680" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="3565" PostId="3240" Text="Thanks James, I believe we will give &quot;photobox&quot; a go, before trying anything else." CreationDate="2010-09-18T20:48:07.233" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="3566" PostId="3354" Text="Is this the same as background compression?" CreationDate="2010-09-18T21:37:19.427" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3567" PostId="3353" Text="Depth of field is only **approximately** constant with respect to magnification if you get close enough the depth of field will change." CreationDate="2010-09-18T21:38:00.877" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3569" PostId="3365" Score="2" Text="It depends on the design of the lens, for some more expensive lenses the diaphragm doesn't need move when you zoom to maintain the same f ratio. The quoted f stop actually refers to the apparent size of the aperture which rarely corresponds exactly to the physical size (nowhere in a 600mm f/4 lens is there a 15cm hole!). It's possible for the apparent size of the aperture to change without the physical size changing thus the blades don't have to move as you zoom to maintain f/2.8 on the 70-200 f/2.8, for example." CreationDate="2010-09-18T22:00:26.330" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3570" PostId="3363" Text="There are a few general trends that are worth knowing about (e.g. Nikon lenses are regarded as much better for IR work, Canon has more fast wide primes etc.) but I agree discussions on this topic tend to lose objectivity fast and descend into blind brand loyalty. Which is a shame, as as an open minded camera owner I'd appreciate the discussion." CreationDate="2010-09-18T22:05:57.977" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3571" PostId="3263" Text="f:0.9 is only exception when it comes to photography, the lenses used to etch silicon to make computer chips are typically f/0.55 which is 2 stops faster than f/1! Not only that but they're tack sharp wide open and need to be that fast to counteract diffraction!" CreationDate="2010-09-18T22:15:23.530" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3572" PostId="3356" Score="1" Text="It's worth noting that the DOF scale printed on lenses is only approximate, and that the depth in front of and behind the subject is almost never the same (for some subject distances the DOF extends more in front of the subject and for some distances it extends more behind the subject)." CreationDate="2010-09-18T22:17:54.080" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3573" PostId="3363" Score="2" Text="Hmm this is a relevant question though. We all know that a camera is just part of the equation. Many people end up spending even more money after that on lenses alone. So committing to one brand or another is not a light decision in that respect. I didn't pick a Canon for the lenses at the time, but what I've heard is that Nikon lenses are generally, all things being equal, more expensive. I think this may have to do with the way they are motorized or not (whereas for Canon it's basically always USM?). Can we just down vote troll answers?" CreationDate="2010-09-18T22:23:42.953" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3574" PostId="774" Text="Bibble. It's OK but better than freeware alternatives." CreationDate="2010-09-19T01:54:15.957" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3575" PostId="3363" Score="3" Text="@sebastien.b: The way I've tried to influnce Photo.SE is to always emphasize things that matter in photography. You are right, a camera system is a serious investment, but my belief is that any perceived differences between the two major brands (Canon &amp; Nikon) will have zero impact on photography. I think lens comparisons, and pixel-peeps, etc take away from what is really important in taking awesome photos." CreationDate="2010-09-19T01:59:14.380" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3576" PostId="3352" Text="Generally speaking, *professional* quality printers &quot;start&quot; at 13x19&quot;, and go up from there. I have an iP4500 as a general purpose and backup photo printer. It cost about $130, and an equivalent today is probably less. It prints some great photos itself, and with a calibration device, it could probably print professional grade. It is a dye printer, so it actually has a really high DPI, and looks great. It only has the basic CMYK ink, thus has a smaller gamut, but most of the time that isn't a problem. I tend to print most of my 4x6&quot;-8x10&quot; stuff on it, leaving the larger formats to the 9500." CreationDate="2010-09-19T04:29:22.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3577" PostId="3363" Score="1" Text="Couldn't agree more with Alan. Outside of using a loupe to examine perfectly calibrated prints under ideal lighting, the differences between gear and brands is minimal at best, and moot in the general sense. What mattes more is getting out and using the gear you have. ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-19T04:36:34.147" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3578" PostId="3356" Score="1" Text="@Matt: yes, the scale is only approximate, but this should be clear from the distance scale: from 5m to 10m is only a few mm, and it's no coincidence that this scale doesn't have markers. Also, DOF isn't an exact measure in itself, since it depends on how large you define your circle of confusion." CreationDate="2010-09-19T06:51:10.820" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3579" PostId="3373" Text="+1 genius! great answer" CreationDate="2010-09-19T07:50:58.947" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3580" PostId="3363" Score="2" Text="In general, yes, but there are a few niches where there are genuine differences between the lens lineups that go far beyond pixel peeping (such as IR photography as I mentioned above), so I don't see why we can't discuss Canon vs. Nikon lenses on this site in an objective and respectful manner." CreationDate="2010-09-19T08:35:09.913" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3581" PostId="1382" Text="If you had to buy one today would you go for the S90 or the S95?" CreationDate="2010-09-19T08:51:46.720" UserId="1432" />
  <row Id="3582" PostId="3363" Score="3" Text="When writing this question I was aware that there might be a potential brand-war. But being not on a bulletin-board but on a stackexchange site usually means that the chance in brand-related trolling will be substantially low. So I cannot more agree with sebastien.b. Encourage high-quality discussions of the topic with upvotes and degrade flameing/trolling answers with a downvote." CreationDate="2010-09-19T09:10:52.457" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3583" PostId="3369" Score="2" Text="Your answer might be - while looking at the comments of this question - the best possible. The links refer to some 3rd party statements and is not biased with your opinion. +1 for this type of answer on this type of question :)" CreationDate="2010-09-19T09:13:23.360" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3584" PostId="3355" Text="Front of the lens rarely rotates when zooming. All Canon lenses I've seen (such as kit EF-S 18-55 mm) rotate the front only when focusing, when you zoom it stays the same way." CreationDate="2010-09-19T09:55:34.767" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3585" PostId="3375" Score="2" Text="It also looks like that Canon MP-E 65mm Macro has no Nikon equivalent currently." CreationDate="2010-09-19T10:04:01.790" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3586" PostId="3375" Text="I knew there was a better example than the 800mm! The lack of tilt-shift was a big difference for a long time along with a few wide primes (e.g. 24mm f/1.4) but it seems Nikon are catching up fast in these areas." CreationDate="2010-09-19T10:07:47.597" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3587" PostId="3370" Score="1" Text="Could you next time create 2 posts if you have 2 questions? Please?" CreationDate="2010-09-19T10:41:28.047" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3588" PostId="3351" Text="nondestructive and reversible are not the same thing!" CreationDate="2010-09-19T11:00:17.240" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3589" PostId="3374" Text="Most important thing here is the experimentation, rather than the manual - but definitely agree with the gist of things.  Though as a learning exercise it might be good to follow a tutorial once, then go back and try to achieve the same effect but deliberately using different methods to do it." CreationDate="2010-09-19T11:32:54.613" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3590" PostId="3370" Text="it's a two part question no? I think the 2nd would be closed as a duplicate no?" CreationDate="2010-09-19T11:36:28.270" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3591" PostId="2895" Score="1" Text="It would be nice if you could clarify why you choose to post this link in your answer. Can you describe whats the overall benefits of using photoSIG? Until then this answer is not very helpful. A google search might have revealed the same result." CreationDate="2010-09-19T12:29:13.653" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3592" PostId="3329" Text="Lightroom, Aperture &amp; iPhoto (maybe others) perform edits in this way. The information about the edit, be it white balance or something else are stored as part of the library and only applied destructively when the image is exported from the application (or printed). The master files always remain untouched." CreationDate="2010-09-19T12:58:45.640" UserId="553" />
  <row Id="3593" PostId="3347" Score="1" Text="I've always found that the quality of the card reader also seems to affect transfer speed. My cheap USB 2.0 card reader was slower than most USB 2.0 cameras but my new, better quality, reader is much, much faster." CreationDate="2010-09-19T13:02:36.763" UserId="553" />
  <row Id="3595" PostId="3373" Score="1" Text="Thanks, if you feel this has answered your question, could you mark it as accepted by clicking the check box icon next to the question!" CreationDate="2010-09-19T15:02:32.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3596" PostId="3377" Score="3" Text="&#xA;	&#xA;I disagree with point 1, if you use the same lens, and keep the same final output size then sharpness is not the same. The larger sensor will produce a sharper image (in terms of absolute resolving power) in addition to greater sensitivity - see the comparison between the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 on a full frame and APS-C size sensor I posted: http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/nikon_50_1p4g_n15/page3.asp" CreationDate="2010-09-19T15:12:30.140" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3597" PostId="3370" Text="The first part is a general question that excludes brand-- does an APS sensor provide a tangible quality benefit over an APS-C sensor?  The second is very specific-- will I notice a quality difference between the d700 and the d7000?  I don't know the answer to the first, but the second you can measure and test with samples of each for your own particular style, ie, it's a much more easily answered question." CreationDate="2010-09-19T16:19:34.833" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3598" PostId="3377" Text="Q higher pixel density does note always equate to more noise. It *can*, but not always. For example, a Canon 5D mk II is going to be a lot sharper than a Canon 20D, even with the same lens etc." CreationDate="2010-09-19T16:24:37.763" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3599" PostId="3352" Text="+1, nicely detailed. I have the Pixma Pro 9000 and love it, it's never failed me and produces beautiful prints at every size I've chosen. I've never felt that a photo lab would do any better for me." CreationDate="2010-09-19T16:53:26.010" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3600" PostId="3314" Score="1" Text="It's not a dumb question. I took the liberty of editing out the self-deprecation. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-19T17:42:38.450" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3601" PostId="1382" Text="Now that the S95 has been released, I would probably pick that" CreationDate="2010-09-19T17:43:28.993" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3602" PostId="3314" Text="@Reid: Ha! Thanks. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-19T18:51:02.280" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3603" PostId="3213" Text="Accepted, since Vistek seems to have EVERYTHING, which is pretty nice. Even though I got the filters elsewhere." CreationDate="2010-09-19T18:51:47.350" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3604" PostId="3174" Score="1" Text="Sadly, this is pretty much the correct answer. Hopefully it will change in the future...I would LOVE an epaper picture frame capable of 24bit color. " CreationDate="2010-09-19T18:52:53.367" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3605" PostId="3352" Score="1" Text="Yeah, the PIXMA Pro9000 is a great printer too, and cheaper to run as it uses dye inks, rather than pigment (almost half the cost). I kind of got trapped by all the &quot;pigment&quot; hype, but after some recent research, it seems dye inks have great longevity, and tend to produce more vibrant results than pigments. Dye particles are also a lot smaller, so the tonal range with the Pro9000 should be better than the Pro9500. When it comes to fine art papers, I think the pigment is a more stable colorant, but on luster/semigloss or gloss papers, nothing beats dye." CreationDate="2010-09-19T18:56:16.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3606" PostId="3373" Text="++ Excellent answer." CreationDate="2010-09-19T18:57:39.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3607" PostId="3358" Text="Rather confusing question. I think there is a Sigma 17-200, and a Canon 18-200, but not a Canon 17-200. " CreationDate="2010-09-19T18:58:53.383" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3608" PostId="3363" Text="At least as important as the lenses is **how the camera feels** - go into a shop and hold both cameras. Play with the controls and menu systems. You may find you significantly prefer one over the other, and *that* should be your starting point in any decision." CreationDate="2010-09-19T19:02:04.907" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3609" PostId="3196" Text="@che - So you're claiming that photo is not worth $50? :)" CreationDate="2010-09-19T19:17:25.197" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3610" PostId="3256" Text="Are you sure? My impression was that meters aim for a 18% or 12% gray, and that's not right in the middle, is it?" CreationDate="2010-09-19T20:04:06.930" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3611" PostId="2474" Text="How big is the sign? Is it just covering grass, or does it obscure any larger details?" CreationDate="2010-09-19T20:04:32.320" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3612" PostId="3354" Text="@philw Cropping has the same effect as zooming on perspective." CreationDate="2010-09-19T20:12:50.603" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3613" PostId="2485" Text="+1 for Resynth, it's not perfect but takes a lot of the legwork out of removing objects from photos. At the end of the day some combination of automatic filling and manual tweaking is required in order to get the best results." CreationDate="2010-09-19T21:05:58.507" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3614" PostId="3370" Text="agreed mmr, although the real question I'm interested in the definately the first" CreationDate="2010-09-19T22:18:03.880" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3615" PostId="3373" Text="@matt: haha, I just like to wait a while... it encourages others to answer which enriches the knowledge I think" CreationDate="2010-09-19T22:19:37.563" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3616" PostId="3379" Text="+1 great answer john, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-19T22:20:13.303" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3617" PostId="3385" Text="+1 for the trial idea. Content-aware fill is very effective at removing unwanted content. It is not perfect at generating content to fill in the space left behind, and uses a mixture of cloning, healing, and generative algorithms. If the content filled in is not perfect, it is usually a good enough base to manually add in any missing fine details." CreationDate="2010-09-19T22:46:35.680" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3618" PostId="3213" Text="LOL, they do, but it costs... However, I'm addicted to the place because of the availability of stuff. Great source for photo paper as well." CreationDate="2010-09-20T00:58:09.437" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3619" PostId="3379" Text="@andy: You're quite welcome. By the way, if you can afford the price, I'd go full frame. In the end, it's going to be more similar to film in handling." CreationDate="2010-09-20T01:01:33.300" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3620" PostId="3379" Text="hey man, just re-read you answer, I just skimmed it first site, again, excellent stuff, especially the Medium format stuff extra" CreationDate="2010-09-20T01:03:59.787" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3621" PostId="3379" Text="thanks dude... yeah, I think I will, moving from film to the pretty modest D50 was a real struggle... and it still doesn't feel right. before I splash out on a D700 I'm thinking of getting my first film Medium Format!" CreationDate="2010-09-20T01:06:08.403" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3622" PostId="3379" Text="If you're looking medium format, you may want to look at Pentax. The 645D is headed to North America and is slated to be around $10,000 for a 40mp sensor in a medium format with dSLR features and body structure. In addition to some new lenses from Pentax, there's often quite a few lenses available through Craigslist, though I expect a price spike when the 645D hits here." CreationDate="2010-09-20T02:07:50.913" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3623" PostId="3383" Text="Good question! I'm curious to see an answer, but I have my doubts that you'll get a postive one..." CreationDate="2010-09-20T02:16:41.297" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3624" PostId="3071" Score="12" Text="I, your dashing and charming husband, came onto this site a few weeks ago to research an anniversary gift for you. I read this entire page, including this answer, and ultimately bought you a book and only now just now realized that *you*, my wife, wrote this." CreationDate="2010-09-20T02:29:55.453" UserId="380" />
  <row Id="3625" PostId="3382" Text="I was hoping for mirror lockup to reduce vibration due to mirror slap.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-20T03:19:13.067" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="3626" PostId="2895" Text="You make a valid point but I don't think it deserves a downvote (unhelpful). The site is directly relevant to the original question and the link addresses the questions &quot;What is PhotoSIG&quot; and &quot;What can I do here?&quot; My own experience of the site is not necessarily of interest to @Igor, nor did he ask for it." CreationDate="2010-09-20T03:50:57.453" UserId="847" />
  <row Id="3627" PostId="3392" Text="+1 for mentioning sigma. Good flashes, despite their quirks." CreationDate="2010-09-20T04:25:25.560" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3628" PostId="3391" Text="Never mind a digital Hasselblad..." CreationDate="2010-09-20T05:59:55.077" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3629" PostId="3256" Text="@Reid - this is an actual example from my camera. 18% is the middle gray, 12% is a little to the left." CreationDate="2010-09-20T06:44:19.690" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3630" PostId="3382" Score="2" Text="For this, you have to use the &quot;exp. delay mode&quot; option in the settings menu. It will delays shutter release until after the mirror is raised." CreationDate="2010-09-20T06:50:19.940" UserId="765" />
  <row Id="3631" PostId="3383" Text="Is the metadata-between-the-frames in some standard format?" CreationDate="2010-09-20T06:55:53.950" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3632" PostId="3383" Score="1" Text="@Karel with APS film, there was a magnetic strip that recorded exposure date, time, aperture and shutter speed; Most minilabs would print this information on the back of prints, along with frame number, and film serial number." CreationDate="2010-09-20T07:07:41.707" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3633" PostId="3393" Text="Shooting a recital with direct flash from far away is going to look awful, your best bet there is stage lighting." CreationDate="2010-09-20T08:26:24.900" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3634" PostId="3396" Score="1" Text="Raw files still have more dynamic range than JPEGs so even if you are shooting for HDR it's a good idea to use raw to extend your dynamic range further. Even if the output is a low dynamic range JPEG, tonemapping is still able to make use of the extra DR." CreationDate="2010-09-20T09:46:02.740" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3635" PostId="3401" Score="4" Text="As it currently reads, this question is highly subjective. It would be useful to edit the question to include details of what you're trying to edit; One editor may be specialised for a specific task, such as geocoding; and others may be specific to a single operating system/platform." CreationDate="2010-09-20T11:23:25.463" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3636" PostId="3401" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1177/adding-data-to-an-exif-file" CreationDate="2010-09-20T11:28:07.517" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3637" PostId="3377" Text="Good answer for &quot;all other things being equal&quot;.  Pithy.  I like it, and I would have said the same.  +1" CreationDate="2010-09-20T12:46:37.923" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3638" PostId="156" Score="1" Text="Shouldn't this be a community wiki? It doesn't have a clearly correct answer?" CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:05:36.763" UserId="1426" />
  <row Id="3639" PostId="3370" Text="@andy - I find it interesting claim that when using film, size gives any other advantage than resolution. If the emulsion is the same, how can it have more dynamic range?" CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:07:24.513" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3640" PostId="3" Text="I think this is an interesting read: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/hdr-plea.shtml" CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:11:23.770" UserId="1426" />
  <row Id="3641" PostId="3377" Text="@Rowland: sharpness and noise are two different things. You van have a noisier and less noisy picture while both being as sharp as the other. Noise causes deviation from the real color in individual pixels." CreationDate="2010-09-20T13:55:53.617" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3642" PostId="3382" Text="ah, success.  thank you.  " CreationDate="2010-09-20T14:07:27.830" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="3643" PostId="3377" Text="@Matt: couldn't it be that less noise is perceived as being sharper? After all, if the number of pixels remains the same corresponding pixels in both sensors see the same color." CreationDate="2010-09-20T14:30:57.480" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="3644" PostId="2107" Text="I second that Lightroom for Linux plea!  We can only hope...  ;-s" CreationDate="2010-09-20T15:23:45.263" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3645" PostId="3395" Score="1" Text="yeah, I guess you're right. What steams me is that I didn't know it operated *only* with OEM batteries. I wasn't trying to cheat them, I bought from a reputable battery maker a battery which I thought was a valid 2nd-source of the OEM battery. I never have had any interest in buying batteries from shady mfrs." CreationDate="2010-09-20T15:43:47.230" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="3646" PostId="3377" Text="@stevenh noise has an effect on both perceived and measured sharpness, but it's small in comparison with the fact that a larger sensor uses much more of the lens' imaging circle. It is not true that if the number of pixels is the same then corresponding pixels in both sensors see the same colour, since corresponding pixels are viewing different parts of the image projected by the lens! The image projected by the lens has a limited resolution. If you just take the middle part of this image and blow it up (effectively what the smaller sensor does) then you will lose sharpness." CreationDate="2010-09-20T17:23:43.617" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3647" PostId="3256" Text="Cool, thanks.  ." CreationDate="2010-09-20T18:23:16.183" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3648" PostId="3338" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1592/why-do-we-talk-about-focal-length-when-frame-sizes-are-different" CreationDate="2010-09-20T19:57:01.003" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="3649" PostId="3402" Text="I just confirmed on my D80 that it's menu option 31. Help menu explains &quot;Exp. delay mode - select &quot;On&quot; to reduce camera shake due to mirror shock. Delays shutter release until about 0.4 seconds after the mirror is raised.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-09-20T20:11:15.503" UserId="1441" />
  <row Id="3650" PostId="3383" Text="I have an old Qscan scanner with an APS carrier that does motor-driven automated scanning, but it doesn't read the magnetic strip." CreationDate="2010-09-20T20:12:41.377" UserId="522" />
  <row Id="3651" PostId="1610" Text="I personally think that focal length and the use of 'effective' focal length is one of the easiest ways of gauge the field of view of a lens. Photographers learn early on what different focal lengths achieve in terms of field of view, but I've personally never thought in terms of *degrees*, it's usually a feeling of what it gives. I think in terms of &quot;oh a 50mm lens on my camera would make a nice portrait lens&quot; or &quot;18mm will still give me a decent wide angle for group photos&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-20T22:13:08.117" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3652" PostId="1614" Score="1" Text="Totally agree. Focal length and *effective focal length* are immediately intuitive ways of understanding the uses of particular lenses." CreationDate="2010-09-20T22:19:32.503" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3653" PostId="3397" Score="1" Text="+1 for the nice example" CreationDate="2010-09-20T23:24:09.233" UserId="1" />
  <row Id="3654" PostId="3391" Text="dude, great answer, thank you. Yeah, I'm thinking the RB67 will be it! it's crazy that it's so modular you can get a digital back for  it!" CreationDate="2010-09-20T23:39:58.680" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="3655" PostId="156" Text="I would agree that this should be community wiki. All of the answers below offer some great information, but there really isn't any particular &quot;correct&quot; answer. I'm not really sure what will happen with the bounty if it is converted, though, so I figure its best to leave it for 5 days before doing anything about it." CreationDate="2010-09-21T00:49:31.977" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3656" PostId="2567" Text="I'm marking this as the accepted answer, because it appears to be the best available under the given budget, but it really is a quite floppy tripod (as I've discovered after some use). I'm coming to believe that the answer to my question is really &quot;no&quot; (i.e., my weight budget is unrealistic), and +/- 1kg is the true floor for decent support." CreationDate="2010-09-21T02:28:12.440" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3657" PostId="3391" Score="4" Text="Generally digital backs for MF are either small (not much bigger than FF 35mm), or so expensive you think they put the decimal point in the wrong place!" CreationDate="2010-09-21T02:58:26.667" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="3658" PostId="2567" Text="Aye, its pretty floppy. That was my concern about it, and the reason I went with the Gitzo stuff. Even the Gitzo one is a bit light, and just a couple days ago I was worried it would blow down a mountain I was photographing because of some strong winds. ;P" CreationDate="2010-09-21T03:21:13.260" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3659" PostId="3404" Text="Thank you so much!  This is just what I was looking for, and I will look into the flashes you talked about." CreationDate="2010-09-21T04:09:05.917" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="3660" PostId="3407" Text="Looks to me like that's merely discussing scanning APS in a fairly manual manner (I used to have the predecessor of the Canoscan mentioned in the first of the threads; but that really is just a modified transparency scanner, and very, very, very slow to manually go through a roll. The old Kodak FD300 is closer in idea, with it supporting fully automated scanning, but it is relatively low resolution, doesn't work on anything later than Windows 98, and I'm unsure if it embeds EXIF in the scans. A whole minilab is a bet excessive for my requirements ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-21T07:55:28.850" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3661" PostId="3408" Text="+1 good point, I didn't look at the spec of the 780 in detail. I guess the real answer to this question is: &quot;no&quot;! " CreationDate="2010-09-21T08:37:57.363" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3662" PostId="3415" Score="1" Text="If this is one photo then HDR isn't an option. And I doubt it would be easy to capture the necessary exposures for HDR in a moving shot like this." CreationDate="2010-09-21T11:46:06.900" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3663" PostId="3415" Score="3" Text="For HDR you would only need several pictures with different exposures. Using the RAW file you can overexpose and underexpose a little without losing too much detail (as the dynamic range of the RAW is larger than for the possibly generated JPG)." CreationDate="2010-09-21T12:00:03.257" UserId="1441" />
  <row Id="3664" PostId="1202" Text="Now that Lightroom has native Facebook upload, I don't use Windows Live Gallery anymore" CreationDate="2010-09-21T12:28:46.413" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="3665" PostId="2863" Text="And the 5D mk II would be compared to the Nikon D700 - the 300s isn't full frame." CreationDate="2010-09-21T14:37:27.153" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="3666" PostId="3404" Text="Glad it's of help to you :)  I just realized that I put the 'nokia' flashes instead of the 'nikon' flashes; as far as I know, nokia doesn't make flashes, so look for the nikon." CreationDate="2010-09-21T14:57:57.850" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3667" PostId="3420" Text="I'm not sure about lossless compression. That would probably be very brand and model specific, and likely not a feature that every camera model uses. Most RAW files are truly raw, untainted data from the sensor, without any compression of any kind. " CreationDate="2010-09-21T16:33:26.480" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3668" PostId="3420" Text="@jrista: FYI - Lossless RAW compression is starting to be used in modern cameras.  For example, the Nikon D7000 supports 14bit lossless compressions in NEF files (http://www.nikonusa.com/Find-Your-Nikon/Product/Digital-SLR/25468/D7000.html#tab-ProductDetail.ProductTabs.TechSpecs)" CreationDate="2010-09-21T16:37:40.730" UserId="244" />
  <row Id="3669" PostId="3420" Score="2" Text="I think the major manufacturers have been using some form of lossless raw compression for a while now - looking back through my Canon raw files from my old 30D, they are all quite different file sizes, if it was raw untainted data they would all be the same size!" CreationDate="2010-09-21T17:01:21.680" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3670" PostId="3422" Text="+1 for detailed instructions" CreationDate="2010-09-21T17:15:12.960" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3671" PostId="3422" Text="@Rob if you flag your answers as &quot;Community Wiki&quot; then you won't earn reputation when people agree with you, and vote for your answer; which is a shame, as you've provided such a good answer here. Ironically, you would have got your ten points for including images form @jfklein's vote and another ten from me..." CreationDate="2010-09-21T19:17:09.810" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3673" PostId="3420" Score="1" Text="@jrista The smallest file size from my 30D was 5.6MB and the largest was 9.6MB that's too large to be the JPEG thumbnail. Seeing as the small raws have large areas of pure white, I'm pretty sure Canon use run length encoding to provide lossless raw compression. " CreationDate="2010-09-21T20:29:11.220" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3674" PostId="3422" Text="Ha! That is ironic...thanks for the heads up Rowland." CreationDate="2010-09-21T20:54:30.480" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3675" PostId="3426" Text="I feared this may be the case (and I'd already got the DNG converter from Adobe), but you never know, there might be a way somehow. I thought I'd ask here after discussing on the site's chat area at http://chat.meta.stackoverflow.com/rooms/211/photo-se" CreationDate="2010-09-21T21:07:17.640" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3676" PostId="3425" Text="As far as I know Nick is correct, the RAW plugin is version tied and not available stand-alone. However, bear in mind that you probably can do the upgrade from CS2 to CS5 for the lower cost. Worth it, in my opinion, for all the other features they added for photographers, especially the content-aware features which are worth the price of admission alone." CreationDate="2010-09-21T21:24:58.457" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3677" PostId="3420" Score="1" Text="Matt is right; with respect to Canon for example, it's no secret that Canon raws use lossless compression.  Googling for &quot;Canon raw lossless&quot; leads straight to this for example: http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/image_compression/lossless_and_lossy_compression.do" CreationDate="2010-09-21T21:25:17.550" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="3678" PostId="3413" Text="Yes, this is the structure I use too (although in my case with Lightroom).  Nice and simple, and still reasonably easy to find things using Explorer/Finder." CreationDate="2010-09-21T21:35:52.363" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="3679" PostId="2358" Score="1" Text="@Nick Bedford: The OP is correct when he asserts that later versions of Firefox (3.x onwards) also support colour profiles." CreationDate="2010-09-22T01:28:45.170" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="3680" PostId="8" Text="The best way is with the Delete button. Now if I could only follow my own advice..." CreationDate="2010-09-22T01:35:21.260" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="3681" PostId="3434" Score="1" Text="This is what you call a turnaround. Possibly argumentative question, saved and turned into something useful. Kudos" CreationDate="2010-09-22T03:37:40.710" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3682" PostId="3434" Text="Excellent answer. Double what BBischof said. Interesting fact about Sony sensors, never knew that myself. Kind of makes the question of Sony vs. Canon all the more important if they really do service 50% of the worlds sensors." CreationDate="2010-09-22T04:21:16.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3683" PostId="3433" Score="1" Text="When it comes to sensors, Canon has recently made some massive headway in that arena, with its new 120 megapixel APS-H sensor. Thats kind of hard to beat. Might be something to think about regarding future upgrade path, in addition to John Cavan's answer. " CreationDate="2010-09-22T04:23:15.127" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3684" PostId="3359" Text="Why do you suggest avoiding f/stops lower than f/8 on digital cameras? I shoot with an f/1.4 prime often and have never noticed any problems...in fact I love the results. I'm curious." CreationDate="2010-09-22T04:56:31.647" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3685" PostId="3433" Score="4" Text="While there're good pro-Canon arguments, this is not one of them ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-22T06:37:34.197" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3686" PostId="3434" Text="Thanks John that was an excellent answer. I know my question was subjective - that was the purpose - to get some discussion like this flowing, and its served its purpose well.&#xA;&#xA;WRT the sensors, i know sony make excellent sensors. Their cameras are fantastic and i'm totally happy with my A700. Repair options are probably good too, my doubts are more around available equipment. If i break a lens in central america somewhere, and need another one to use - i think my chances of finding a canon would be far greater than a sony/minolta.  Carl-Zeiss are amazing lenses tho, that much is true." CreationDate="2010-09-22T06:40:48.937" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3687" PostId="3433" Score="1" Text="Yes future upgrade is definitely a big one. I really through Sony would push ahead this past year with more lenses, more cameras, but they seem to be focusing more on semi-compacts (their nexus range) to the detriment of their slr range. this is unfortunate, and leading me to considering switching camps before i have too much invested. tough choice, i know." CreationDate="2010-09-22T06:44:47.243" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3688" PostId="3434" Score="3" Text="@Gregorius: how much time do you honestly spend in the jungle (or the Sahara, Antarctica, etc?) If you're honestly spending a lot of time in places like that, your only real option (regardless of brand) is to carry spares." CreationDate="2010-09-22T08:32:09.880" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="3689" PostId="3359" Text="@Rob - a wide-open f/1.4 prime is the right choice in many situations, and i use the same with good results. My answer is more to point out that the **ideal** aperture for most lenses to achieve the sharpest results is often f/8 - f/11, given a tripod, proper exposure, etc. In those conditions i'll start in that &quot;ideal&quot; range, then adjust it +/- based on desired DOF." CreationDate="2010-09-22T10:34:40.690" UserId="761" />
  <row Id="3690" PostId="3433" Score="1" Text="I'm surprised nobody's mentioned a good reason to switch; namely you can borrow all of your friend's gear that suggested the idea to you :)" CreationDate="2010-09-22T12:07:25.983" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3692" PostId="1717" Score="1" Text="Picasa from Google." CreationDate="2010-09-22T15:09:34.240" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="3693" PostId="3445" Text="Going Pro would help you out." CreationDate="2010-09-22T15:10:24.987" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="3694" PostId="3443" Text="+1 on tweaking the monitor to be closer to 5000K." CreationDate="2010-09-22T15:24:10.680" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3695" PostId="3443" Text="I have the Apple Cinemadisplay 30&quot;. It only has three controls: Backlight +/- and Power. The Spyder3Elite software is very powerful, and it can automatically control many aspects of the screen hardware, including brightness and such. I guess color temp is just one of the things it can't control." CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:08:37.957" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3696" PostId="3444" Text="I guess I could also just download some cursors. I know there are plenty of free cursor sets on the net. Good idea!" CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:09:24.180" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3697" PostId="3438" Text="HA! +1 for the giant cursor bit. :D Between you and Guffa, I bet the problem is that its rendered by hardware, rather than the OS. Thanks for the tip." CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:10:39.467" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3698" PostId="3454" Text="Facebook is not a good platform for a Photocompetition or Uploads in anysense. I think their terms of usage force you (like many other big socialnetwork-sites) to give them the right to use it in any way you can think of. Even for advertisments or for sell. I wouldn't accept on this if I shoot a really cool photo." CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:37:29.127" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3699" PostId="3452" Score="3" Text="You might get some better answers at http://webapps.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2010-09-22T16:38:20.250" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3700" PostId="3454" Text="I think Facebook changed the terms. I'm no legal expert, but images uploaded to facebook still stay on the server until some undetermined time, but privacy settings apply. So if the image is public for all the view, then FB can use it as part of their advertising. That said, I agree with Greg. I would not use Facebook, simply because of the wacked out privacy settings." CreationDate="2010-09-22T17:06:01.380" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3701" PostId="3457" Score="1" Text="I think the letters are Canon's code for different diameters, there doesn't seem to be much information about this, you'd think there was a compatibility chart somewhere that showed which lenses were compatible with which collars." CreationDate="2010-09-22T17:44:09.883" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3702" PostId="3449" Text="use a lightmeter? ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-22T17:45:59.787" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3703" PostId="3454" Score="2" Text="Gregor - that's just not true. They only say you give them the right to display the photographs on their site - which you need to do otherwise people wouldn't be able to upload photos at all! If the OP creates a private group as I suggested, nobody but the group members would be able to view the photographs. There is a lot of talk about Facebook and the privacy implications - but you still have full control over who can see your stuff, beyond copying and pasting, which is a risk wherever you post on the internet. Still, each to their own; I just suggested a simple option." CreationDate="2010-09-22T18:35:18.373" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="3704" PostId="3449" Text="Heh, no, really, the Spyder3 hardware can do this with the ColorNavigator software, so it should be possible with the DataColor Software, too." CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:30:06.000" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3705" PostId="3455" Text="Duh, I only got the Spyder3pro and use the DataColor Software only for my notebook - no way to achieve this without shelling out for an upgrade?" CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:31:59.950" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3706" PostId="3455" Text="It looks like the upgrade is actually only $19... I guess they dropped the price. For that price, I would totally get it. Its got a ton of features, nice graphing, multi-screen comparisons of statistics, etc." CreationDate="2010-09-22T20:33:05.413" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3707" PostId="3455" Text="It's also free if you bought the thing in 2010." CreationDate="2010-09-22T21:16:25.773" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3708" PostId="3447" Text="Interesting comment about the 135mm f/1.8 of Sony's-- how would it compare, do you think, to the Nikon 135mm f/2 DC lens?" CreationDate="2010-09-22T21:31:35.790" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3709" PostId="3464" Score="1" Text="I've always used DSLRs with &quot;small&quot; LCDs (starting with Canon EOS 350D) and trying 400D and 1000D that had to fire up main display or raise the camera to my eye just to see what kind of exposure I have set was sure annoying." CreationDate="2010-09-22T21:52:24.777" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3710" PostId="3454" Score="2" Text="Irrespective of any usage rights, Facebook is an absolutely terrible platform for photo competitions - not least because the photos are shrunk and compressed." CreationDate="2010-09-22T22:10:04.107" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3711" PostId="3452" Score="2" Text="And if you do get answers at webapps, it'd be good to re-post them here, since this is certainly a good photography-oriented question." CreationDate="2010-09-22T22:13:11.247" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3712" PostId="3455" Text="Aye, thats how I got it myself. I just purchased the Sypder3Studio SR, and got the upgraded Sypder3Elite software for free." CreationDate="2010-09-22T22:21:24.650" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3713" PostId="3462" Text="Just to be clear, are you talking about the little LCD screen next to the shutter button, or the display visible inside the viewfinder?" CreationDate="2010-09-22T22:32:48.190" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3714" PostId="3467" Score="19" Text="If you love your cousin, convince them to hire a professional photographer." CreationDate="2010-09-23T03:44:53.203" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3715" PostId="3470" Text="Good point on the polarizer, didn't think about that. And I must say for hand-held that is a beautiful image. Do you have any suggestions on capturing the zenith and nadir points of the pano though? This is what I'm after." CreationDate="2010-09-23T05:53:24.787" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3716" PostId="3468" Score="2" Text="True that! Every word." CreationDate="2010-09-23T06:07:28.057" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3717" PostId="3448" Score="1" Text="Sorry, but that's not an answer to my question." CreationDate="2010-09-23T06:34:55.547" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3720" PostId="3473" Score="3" Text="What lens are you using? It could just be that the hood is not designed for use with that lens..." CreationDate="2010-09-23T08:03:56.517" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3721" PostId="3468" Score="6" Text="Shooting groups with 50 mm lens on APS-C body won't be very comfortable." CreationDate="2010-09-23T08:49:42.923" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3722" PostId="3477" Score="1" Text="If you're going to rent a gear, let it arrive a few days before the event so you can check it works and get to know it a bit." CreationDate="2010-09-23T08:54:12.527" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3723" PostId="3461" Score="2" Text="There are some cannon lenses which would really benefit from a tripod collar but don't come with one, such as the 200 f/2.8L " CreationDate="2010-09-23T09:06:36.987" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3724" PostId="3457" Text="I'm researching the idea to make a DIY chest tripod (http://www.instructables.com/id/Supporting-a-dSLR-camera-on-your-chest/) but make it able to take vertical (not only horizontal) shots. BTW, RRS production seems to be very quality but VERY expensive" CreationDate="2010-09-23T09:53:05.230" UserId="1290" />
  <row Id="3725" PostId="3480" Text="Thanks for your answer, but check these 2 links: 1) old picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kravik/3505559424/sizes/z/ (originally uploaded 1000px; no option for Large, even if I write /l/ directly to URL), 2) newer picture: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kravik/4764601237/sizes/l/ (also uploaded 1000px, there is option for Large)." CreationDate="2010-09-23T11:25:00.147" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3726" PostId="3481" Text="Thanks for the link. The first answer there actually states that if you rotate your picture twice (say 90 degrees and back), Flickr will generate the Large size again and **the good thing is that it actually works** :)" CreationDate="2010-09-23T11:42:50.890" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3727" PostId="3448" Score="2" Text="Yes it is. It might not be an answer you *like*, but if you're unhappy with what Flickr are doing to your images, and don't want to pay for their premium services, then you need either a different provider (whom you trust not to screw with your images), or you need to host them yourself." CreationDate="2010-09-23T11:59:05.600" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3728" PostId="3466" Text="I've participated in a few set up along these lines in the past..." CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:14:19.797" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3729" PostId="3448" Text="I'm aware of different other options and use them (Blogspot, Panoramio, local ones). Flickr serves part of my needs not served elsewhere and I have no intentions to stop using it." CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:37:39.110" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3730" PostId="3470" Text="+1 for removing the polarizer." CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:57:21.927" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="3731" PostId="3483" Text="Equal exposure might not necessarily help if the clouds keep moving in and out of the frame." CreationDate="2010-09-23T12:58:05.077" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="3732" PostId="3466" Text="Simple up/downvoting of photos wouldn't be that hard, but with more extensive features - scoring out of X, multi-competition league, anonymised voting, and so on - it does get to be a fairly significant piece of work." CreationDate="2010-09-23T13:14:45.853" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3733" PostId="3448" Score="1" Text="That's fine - I wasn't saying you must. This is a general Q&amp;A site, and it's a valid solution that will be appropriate for some people, so not sure why the downvotes." CreationDate="2010-09-23T13:19:19.433" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3734" PostId="3447" Text="@mmr: the Sony/Zeiss seems to be sharper, but of course doesn't have the defocus control to do cool stuff with bokeh. Sony's idea of the &quot;bokeh-master&quot; lens is the 135/2.8[4.5] STF mentioned below. The latter is a *much* less versatile lens though..." CreationDate="2010-09-23T13:42:25.407" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="3735" PostId="3467" Text="I have to agree with Alan, wedding photography is not an easy thing and you're equipment handicapped to make it even harder." CreationDate="2010-09-23T14:09:48.477" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3736" PostId="3455" Text="Dang - so using Spyder3 pro software I can't really fully calibrate my monitor? For full calibration I need the elite version? Sounds a bit like a ripoff to me :(" CreationDate="2010-09-23T14:27:55.727" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3737" PostId="3470" Text="@Rob-- if you imagine that the final image will be shaped like an H (because of the mercatur projection mathematics), then you need to take extra photos in the center of the H to account for this distortion.  If you take a true hemispheric pano (ie, a complete half of the tennis ball, not just a stripe around the equator), just like how Greenland is distorted, you will distort the top and the bottom of the image.  There's not much to be done about that, except to try to get some distance and to go more for the equator than the true hemisphere.  At least, that's how I understand the math." CreationDate="2010-09-23T14:55:11.550" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3738" PostId="3484" Score="6" Text="The title needs to be changed, it sounds like the real question has to do with carrying lenses.  It needs to be more specific, e.g. add more information about where you photograph and what is making it hard to cope. E.g. backpacking into the wild for landscape or shooting an event indoors would have different lens needs and options for coping." CreationDate="2010-09-23T14:56:25.243" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3739" PostId="3455" Text="Well, you can fully &quot;calibrate&quot; your screen. If you want other capabilities, like luminance evenness measurements, brightness metering, etc., you need the new software. You bought the Spyder3 Pro, which is EXTREMELY cheap for a calibrator, and a pretty good deal. Given that the upgrade is $20, even after that, you still get a REALLY good deal on an excellent calibrator. To contrast, the screen calibration package from X-Rite costs about $1500." CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:09:52.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3740" PostId="3484" Text="@jkflein, I agree." CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:12:13.010" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="3741" PostId="3473" Score="1" Text="@Rowland, from his question it appears he is using the kit lens: &quot; my Canon Rebel XT camera/lens&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:13:20.323" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3742" PostId="3469" Score="2" Text="+1 for getting the Bride to give you a list of shots.  Back when I did weddings, I never showed up without a check list of shots.  You need to know that Aunt Lucy is her favorite aunt.  Also although you probably aren't trying to sell reprints to them,  take lots of pics of the little kids at the reception,  these were always my best sellers..." CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:19:48.193" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="3743" PostId="3484" Text="I think that this question should be marked as community wiki." CreationDate="2010-09-23T15:35:13.900" UserId="1061" />
  <row Id="3744" PostId="3472" Score="2" Text="God, reading that article... just wow.  I was basically someone's apprentice for about a year and a half before I started shooting weddings, but I do have painful memories of the time before... the 'no backup camera' IEFT and the NIVDAR definitely make me wince with embarassment..." CreationDate="2010-09-23T16:07:33.110" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3745" PostId="3484" Score="1" Text="@Paulo Guedes: Definitely. This question can never have a single correct answer." CreationDate="2010-09-23T16:27:41.207" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3746" PostId="3484" Text="I'll fifth that." CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:27:39.007" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3747" PostId="1757" Text="This should really be CW, as I don't think there is an objective 'answer' here. Unless anyone objects, I'll convert it later today." CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:28:19.753" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3748" PostId="3483" Text="I wish there was software that did, that allowed you to designate zenith and nadir frames. I've thought about, for indoor hemi-panos, shooting a laser at the ceiling to be used as a control point. I think it would work. But of course that doesn't solve the blue sky issue." CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:36:21.803" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3749" PostId="3470" Text="The distortion doesn't bother me as my end product is a virtual globe. In other words I hope it does distort, as much as it needs to. But it needs to distort correctly so when I past the image inside a virtual globe it will look natural." CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:38:09.227" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3750" PostId="3470" Text="If you're remapping the final product onto a sphere, then I'd be concerned more with sampling.  As you take the photos, you're projecting the world onto a 2D plane.  Then when you remap back to a sphere, you're curving those photos to undo the projection of the original photo.  If you shoot wide, then the final image will be very distorted just as a propagation of error.  If you shoot zoomed in, you'll take loads of photos, but then you'll have less errors." CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:54:46.467" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3751" PostId="3470" Text="Here's an analogy that I hope works.  Imagine a 3' diameter beach ball.  Say you take a bunch of 8&quot;x10&quot; images from inside the beach ball; the corners of those images will be more distorted than taking, say, 4&quot;x6&quot; images.  If you overlap your 4&quot;x6&quot; shots,then the final mapping back should be very decent, much better than the same number of images shot at 8&quot;x10&quot;, because there's less corner distortion in your original images.  Did I make sense there?  " CreationDate="2010-09-23T17:57:08.347" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3752" PostId="3472" Score="1" Text="That was hilarious! 800 frames and wondering where to get them developed due to lack of computer. Oh Lord!" CreationDate="2010-09-23T18:22:02.217" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3753" PostId="3454" Score="1" Text="From Facebook Statement of Rights: &quot;For content that is covered by intellectual property rights, like photos and videos (&quot;IP content&quot;), you specifically give us the following permission, subject to your privacy and application settings: you grant us a non-exclusive, transferable, sub-licensable, royalty-free, worldwide license to use any IP content that you post on or in connection with Facebook (&quot;IP License&quot;). This IP License ends when you delete your IP content or your account unless your content has been shared with others, and they have not deleted it.&quot; That's pretty open...." CreationDate="2010-09-23T18:37:57.930" UserId="482" />
  <row Id="3754" PostId="3489" Score="5" Text="There are no stupid questions, only questions that get downvoted on photo.se ;)" CreationDate="2010-09-23T18:46:17.870" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3755" PostId="3466" Text="Seems like a nice project to make though... If there are no like this I mean:)" CreationDate="2010-09-23T18:47:41.107" UserId="320" />
  <row Id="3756" PostId="3484" Score="1" Text="I disagree; the question is too vague as it stands, and if it were edited to be more specific, then it would attract appropriately specific answers. I think the CW in this case was a mistake." CreationDate="2010-09-23T20:17:18.213" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3758" PostId="1757" Text="@jrista - fair point - done it myself." CreationDate="2010-09-23T22:46:50.997" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="3759" PostId="330" Score="1" Text="There was a big fuss a while back, when Facebook tried changed their ToS to claim ownership of all uploaded content (or something along those lines). Due to the complaints/etc, they retracted that change - however, that got less publicity, so some people still think the original change is in effect. (That's my understanding anyway; I haven't looked into it all in detail.)" CreationDate="2010-09-23T23:37:50.837" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3760" PostId="330" Text="Also, for quick sharing of pics, where quality isn't important - e.g. a casual social event - then Facebook is a reasonable choice. Not necessarily the best, but often good enough." CreationDate="2010-09-23T23:42:17.210" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3761" PostId="3489" Text="It's a good question. Not dumb at all. Edited to rm unnecessary self-deprecation." CreationDate="2010-09-23T23:51:40.897" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3762" PostId="1757" Text="Thanks Hamish. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-24T00:15:40.770" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3763" PostId="3505" Text="It definitely shows up at f/22, and the worst spots are barely visible at f/2.8. Does that mean its definitely on the sensor?" CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:01:02.490" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3764" PostId="3506" Text="There are likely to be a variety of good answers to this question. It is a great question, but it may warrant being CW. I figure we can see what kind of answers are provided, and convert if necessary." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:15:08.250" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3765" PostId="3505" Score="3" Text="Correct.  Almost certainly on the sensor based on your aperture tests.  Also, if you're eyeballing the sensor looking for them, the spots will be reversed location-wise on the sensor; i.e. if they're at the top of your images, they'll be towards the bottom of your sensor." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:19:41.090" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="3766" PostId="3505" Text="Here's Thom Hogan's (extensive) take on sensor cleaning: &lt;http://www.bythom.com/cleaning.htm&gt;. However, I'd do a bit more googling on sensor spots vs. dust in the lens, etc., to identify where exactly the goober is coming from." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:21:26.927" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3767" PostId="3505" Text="@Conor, not disagreeing necessarily, but wouldn't goobers anywhere in the light path be more obvious with a smaller aperture?" CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:22:40.760" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3768" PostId="3506" Text="Don't plan on FF upgrade just because; have good reason. 1.5-crop sensors are great and getting better. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses for more on this topic." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:24:39.680" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3769" PostId="3489" Text="@Reid, look, I can self-deprecate if I want to! ;) Thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:31:49.650" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3770" PostId="3470" Text="I don't see how this answer addresses the zenith and nadir, which are the key special cases being asked about?" CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:32:09.773" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3771" PostId="3507" Text="While long and detailed, this answer is again about general panoramics and not the zenith/nadir special cases." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:34:04.793" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3772" PostId="3502" Score="1" Text="Thank you for this detailed response! I will look into that. I have missed a few macro shots due to the #%^$^$# strap moving around and scaring the creature. Also, I hate hate hate the strap around my neck, I don't know how flava flav can put up with that crap." CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:34:05.043" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3773" PostId="3470" Text="@Reid-- Take a look at the commentary that follows, about mercator projections and sampling.  Long and the short: take more photos, more than you think you need. " CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:43:42.070" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3774" PostId="3507" Score="2" Text="Well, the answer to the zenith/nadir problem is given in the second paragraph quote: 'Secondly, an 8mm fisheye lense offers a 180 degree horizontal field of view, so if you put your camera in a portrait orientation you won't have to shoot nadir and zenith separately as your lens will capture everything from top to bottom, so the zenith and nadir will form together from your stitched pictures. That solves one of the problems you have mentioned above.'" CreationDate="2010-09-24T01:53:25.587" UserId="1440" />
  <row Id="3775" PostId="3505" Text="I'm curious about the same thing that Reid asked. Why is it that stopping down the aperture make spots on the sensor more visible, but not those on the lens?" CreationDate="2010-09-24T02:16:34.053" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3777" PostId="3507" Text="I tend to take a different approach-- I like the oversampling with a less-wide lens-- but it's hard to argue with results." CreationDate="2010-09-24T02:33:04.083" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3778" PostId="3505" Text="@Reid and jrista: They would be, but it takes a lot on the lens elements to become substantially visible in the image, so I would be inclined to it being sensor dust. Easy enough to deal with anyways, just get a blower (hand, not compressed air) and blow off the sensor. The camera manual should have details on this." CreationDate="2010-09-24T03:54:23.827" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3779" PostId="3505" Text="@jrista, @Reid dust &quot;on the sensor&quot; is actually on the microfilters, just in front of the sensor; there's less stray (unfocused) light with a tighter aperture to fill in around the edges." CreationDate="2010-09-24T08:22:04.980" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3780" PostId="3507" Score="2" Text="Zenith/nadir is tricky to capture indeed. If you shoot with a fisheye, after shooting everything around you, you can step back a little from the point where you were standing and shoot the Nadir at an angle in order to avoid capturing your legs. Then you can adjust the perspective of the shoot in Photoshop or Lightroom . I also used to shoot Nadirs without changing the position of the camera but stepping back a little. My legs were still in the shot but Hugin did a great job deleting them.    " CreationDate="2010-09-24T10:27:10.940" UserId="1440" />
  <row Id="3781" PostId="2745" Score="1" Text="Very nice illustration shot." CreationDate="2010-09-24T10:50:51.897" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="3782" PostId="3433" Text="haha yeah that's true... its actually a big one too actually - i'm the only one i know that has sony gear. So nobody i could borrow gear from ever... whereas i have a few friends with both nikon and canon.  And i suspect it'll always be that way unfortunately." CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:35:26.650" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3783" PostId="3433" Text="Also, there are no rental places that i know of in Australia that rent Sony SLR gear. Which makes sense they just dont have the economies of scale" CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:36:12.433" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3784" PostId="3509" Text="Yeah... I learned about the EF-S limitations pretty early so have not bought any ofther EF-S lenses." CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:36:24.050" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3785" PostId="3434" Text="@Jeffry... I do alot of travel.  I will be travelling around Central and South America for 2 years plus starting next year.. .while it wont be as remote as a jungle all of the time, there will be long periods of time when i'll be in areas without a capital city.  In situations like these, i'd look for second hand stores that could sell gear that might help me get by... or even try to buy something off another traveller to tie my over until the next big city... i think my chances of scoring canon gear are much greater than sony/minolta gear. " CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:38:38.267" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3786" PostId="3446" Text="yeah matt, that's definitely true where i am (Australia) too.. in fact i know of many places that rent nikon and canon gear, but none that rent sony gear.  &#xA;&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:40:50.597" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3787" PostId="3512" Text="It has nothing to do with prestige since most people in my social circle don't even know the differences between lenses. One of the reasons I was thinking about going F1.2 instead F1.4 was the flexibility of being able to shoot in lower light conditions. I'm not sure, though, that ~1/2 stop for 1200 bucks is justifiable." CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:43:58.203" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3788" PostId="3513" Text="By focus plane you mean depth of field? The depth of field at f/1.2 is really something that concerns me since I am not sure on ways to handle that focusing without closing the aperture. If I have to close the aperture for every shot to get the field of depth I want, I must just end up buying a cheaper lens such as the f/1.4." CreationDate="2010-09-24T11:53:28.603" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3789" PostId="3521" Score="3" Text="Could you please post an example image to make it easier to diagnose the problem you are having with the lighting?" CreationDate="2010-09-24T13:14:48.600" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3790" PostId="3522" Text="I will try this as soon as possible. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-24T13:31:54.397" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="3791" PostId="3513" Text="Yes, I meant depth of field. It's thin at f/1.4 too. To give you an idea, if you focus on the nose of your subject, the eyes will not be in focus (upon close inspection). The ears certainly won't at all. But sometimes you have no choice, there is just not enough light." CreationDate="2010-09-24T15:02:20.310" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3792" PostId="3523" Text="You may want to look more at insurance than for warranty with the international travel.  I don't have much experience with it, but my insurance broker assures me that they cover my camera wherever I go.  So even if Nikon is not going to handle it, the insurance company says they will." CreationDate="2010-09-24T15:40:17.267" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3793" PostId="3510" Text="Is that all you did? You've got a distinctive halo effect around the biker and the building..." CreationDate="2010-09-24T17:37:13.830" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3794" PostId="3484" Text="Reid has a point here.  There could be one general CW question of how do you carry lenses, but there's plenty of room for scenario-specific questions that could be really helpful, without straying into the other direction of being overly-specific." CreationDate="2010-09-24T17:55:58.087" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3795" PostId="3525" Score="2" Text="Well, healing 10-12 spots on every photo I keep after a shoot (which could be 20 or so) is a LOT of work. If it was only 1 or 2, that wouldn't be so bad, but there are quite a few. They don't show up much on the landscape, but in the sky, which tends to be lighter, they show up quite well. Its gotten to the point where it is rather annoying, and very time consuming. " CreationDate="2010-09-24T18:07:26.847" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3796" PostId="3516" Text="This sounds like the solution. I really don't like the idea of blowing anything into my camera body, as that is just as likely to bring more particulate in, perhaps more likely, than when switching lenses. I know that there is a series of filters in front of my sensor. What I am not sure about is how to get at the sensor. Would just using a cable release in BULB mode be enough?" CreationDate="2010-09-24T18:25:31.457" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3797" PostId="3516" Score="4" Text="There's a dedicated sensor cleaning mode on the 450D (available through the second yellow spanner menu) which will flip up the mirror and open the shutter for you, you just need to make sure you have a decent amount of battery before you start." CreationDate="2010-09-24T18:31:35.087" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3798" PostId="3504" Text="I keep having the same problem: http://www.yankeepotroast.org/image/spritespot.jpg whoaaaa... I'm sorry." CreationDate="2010-09-24T18:58:37.600" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3799" PostId="3510" Text="Yeah that's probably because I also increased the clarity too much" CreationDate="2010-09-24T19:16:06.227" UserId="1440" />
  <row Id="3800" PostId="3525" Text="@jrista: It of course depends on what you count as a spot that would need editing. Smaller dust particles show up as more faint spots (but with the exact same size), so if you have a lot of those in addition to your 10-12 darker spots, then it's of course a lot. I'm a bit too thorough, and tend to edit out also the more faint spots down to where they are barely visible, so I would perhaps be able to find a lot more spots in your images. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-24T20:20:10.190" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3801" PostId="3525" Text="I basically only edit out the stuff that shows up in print, the rest I leave alone. If I tried to fix everything, I'd spend weeks just cleaning up spots on all my images. :P Even 10-12 spots on 20 images, though, is up to 240 spots. Thats a lot, and I have to adjust the healing brush in LR to accommodate large and small ones. Even with only 10-12 per image, I still have a lot of cleaning to do." CreationDate="2010-09-24T20:33:48.817" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3802" PostId="3523" Text="Before you do this, make sure you know how much customs will charge you to import the camera. You could be in for a nasty surprise..." CreationDate="2010-09-24T21:46:49.127" UserId="677" />
  <row Id="3803" PostId="3526" Text="Most definitely good enough!" CreationDate="2010-09-24T23:48:06.920" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3804" PostId="3512" Text="I wasn't trying to imply that you were after the prestige. However there are people who assume L = DIAMOND PLATINUM, which is far from the case. Again, for you $1600 might be chump change. For many ,it's not. And even if it were, buying a that lens isn't necessarily going to give you $1200 worth of better results. I respect wanting to buy the best you can afford. But realistically you will most likely be hard pressed to fully utilize that lens, justifying it's cost." CreationDate="2010-09-25T01:19:32.433" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3805" PostId="3534" Text="i was doing more graphic editing than photo editing... i was creating icon sprites for a website and wanted to have active/inactive states (inactive being a grayscale version of the active)" CreationDate="2010-09-25T01:59:04.303" UserId="1478" />
  <row Id="3808" PostId="3534" Text="There are a million reasons you might want to have a single layer converted to greyscale. Lets say you can't decided between colour and B/W versions of an image and want to quickly switch back between the two by hiding the greyscale layer." CreationDate="2010-09-25T08:04:38.040" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3809" PostId="3539" Score="1" Text="I stopped reading at step one when he says &quot;Speaking of which, Macs are great, and my Mac’s CPU does not melt&quot;, completely not relevant to what he was trying to teach. I would never start a photography tutorial with &quot;firstly you should be using a Nikon because Canon are rubbish...&quot;" CreationDate="2010-09-25T08:14:04.203" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3810" PostId="3534" Text="Ok I understand now. " CreationDate="2010-09-25T10:05:18.820" UserId="1440" />
  <row Id="3812" PostId="3537" Text="Welcome to photo.SE and photography! And good question." CreationDate="2010-09-25T15:05:26.510" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3813" PostId="3473" Text="@BBishof Now that you mention it, I've only had problems the kit lens." CreationDate="2010-09-25T16:46:32.710" UserId="607" />
  <row Id="3815" PostId="3550" Text="I knew the 1D had it, but I could only find options for target folder in the menus, so wondered if I was being dim..." CreationDate="2010-09-25T19:19:47.160" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3816" PostId="3554" Text="But how does manual and colored automatic modes differ? If I understand this, by setting manual mode and moving slider to position according to used iso, I can read maximum distance for each f/stop. What would change if I choose colored A mode (or why should I use it instead of manual mode)?" CreationDate="2010-09-25T21:51:52.067" UserId="1483" />
  <row Id="3817" PostId="3543" Text="I hadn't seen this one, but it looks like a great option!" CreationDate="2010-09-26T02:40:40.887" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3819" PostId="3558" Score="1" Text="Not sure if it's a problem, but I think it's related to the sensor overheating during live-view. Basically the camera is preventing itself from getting too hot." CreationDate="2010-09-26T04:30:33.600" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3820" PostId="3558" Text="I will look into this Alan, thank you for this info. Also, if nobody posts with a more answery answer, you should make that an answer. thanks again for your comment." CreationDate="2010-09-26T04:32:07.137" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3821" PostId="3455" Text="Oh, $19 is quite a difference from $99 - I guess I'm a bit surprised because it does work with the Colornavigator software." CreationDate="2010-09-26T05:48:28.793" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3822" PostId="2447" Text="A newer version was released the next day: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/adobe-photoshop-express/id331975235?mt=8 (It also appears to be free)" CreationDate="2010-09-26T07:51:54.633" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3823" PostId="3559" Score="1" Text="it might not be Windows that is doing this, but your display driver. Is it nVidia? " CreationDate="2010-09-26T07:57:50.737" UserId="1482" />
  <row Id="3824" PostId="3524" Text="Thanks Reid... I'm 99% sure that Newegg won't even ship international.  I've wanted to buy RAM from them before but no go. I can purchase from a local seller that will accept PayPal, just not sure if i can use my US dollars in my paypal account to pay an Australian seller.  Guess i'll just have to try it out and see, unless somebody else here knows?" CreationDate="2010-09-26T11:03:45.130" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3825" PostId="3523" Text="Yeah i'll definitely get travel insurance - its the safest option for sure. I&quot;ve looked at canon's warranty statement and it seems they'll do repairs internationally provided you have the local purchase receipt.  Regarding customs, yes i've already emailed my customs agent for information about what i'm likely to get stung, but chances are i'll try to buy locally as the price difference isn't much." CreationDate="2010-09-26T11:06:25.173" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3826" PostId="3559" Score="1" Text="This isn't behaviour I've seen, although I calibrate using an eyeOne device..." CreationDate="2010-09-26T11:37:35.170" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3827" PostId="3554" Text="My guess is that automatic mode uses some kind of built-in sensor to measure refrected light and adjusts the output power, while manual mode simply fires what you set on the slider." CreationDate="2010-09-26T11:51:08.577" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3828" PostId="3543" Text="I'm very happy with it, it's well designed, and pretty comfortable to wear." CreationDate="2010-09-26T12:11:50.563" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3829" PostId="3562" Text="Interesting, very interesting. I turned up the auto-off after a previous question, but this noise reduction I was unaware of, I will look into this. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-26T12:20:24.977" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3830" PostId="3559" Text="The GA device is an onboard intel 4500MHD." CreationDate="2010-09-26T13:34:24.403" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="3831" PostId="3550" Text="I don't know why you can't change the prefix. Strangely enough the camera switches between the prefixes IMG and _MG depending on whether or not the colour space it set to sRGB of Adobe RGB respectively.  " CreationDate="2010-09-26T14:15:57.153" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3832" PostId="3524" Text="You're correct on Newegg unfortunately. However you can pay in any supported currency; PayPal will just charge you a fee for the privilege. You could also use a parcel forwarder. (Answer updated.)" CreationDate="2010-09-26T14:41:45.033" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3833" PostId="3550" Text="@Matt that might be enough for me :)" CreationDate="2010-09-26T14:43:34.077" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3834" PostId="1138" Score="3" Text="He asked the questions: what things should you consider when choosing a brand&lt;br&gt; He did not ask the question what brand do you recommend or what DSLR should he buy." CreationDate="2010-09-26T18:04:09.840" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="3835" PostId="3268" Text="Yea, wanted to cheat on an assignment ;) " CreationDate="2010-09-26T18:05:00.477" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="3836" PostId="3270" Text="Thanks. Only the commercial version had this option though.  " CreationDate="2010-09-26T18:05:22.863" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="3837" PostId="3564" Text="Good question, I remember trying for ages to figure this one out!" CreationDate="2010-09-26T18:35:17.707" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3838" PostId="3562" Text="It's the third custonm function on the 450D accessible via the third yellow menu. You can set it to on, off, or auto - in which it only does it for exposures beyond a certain length. It sounds like this is what you have it set to." CreationDate="2010-09-26T18:37:24.110" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3839" PostId="3564" Text="Hehe yea, it's pretty annoying. Thank you for the solution Matt.  " CreationDate="2010-09-26T20:58:42.260" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="3840" PostId="3567" Score="1" Text="+1 I agree with Matt, much more flexible (and less destructive) to do it in post using the RAW file." CreationDate="2010-09-26T21:04:27.213" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3841" PostId="3567" Text="Post raw implies I would only &quot;push&quot; the red (RGB) channel. What is the difference in post Rgb push than camera sensor Rgb push, as opposed to red filter 3 channel (assuming I don't bloom)?" CreationDate="2010-09-26T21:20:21.403" UserId="1139" />
  <row Id="3842" PostId="3539" Score="2" Text="If that's all it took to stop reading (assuming your're not joking), then its really your loss. The guy imparts some good advice &amp; tips. I can look beyond the Mac vs PC religious wars because, as you rightly say, it has no bearing at all on the tutorial." CreationDate="2010-09-26T23:02:08.270" UserId="425" />
  <row Id="3843" PostId="3569" Text="Great question BTW. Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-09-26T23:42:13.193" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3844" PostId="3573" Text="Looks like you're new here. Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-09-26T23:47:17.923" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3845" PostId="3573" Text="Yes, first post, though I was an early committer to the site and have just been lurking for several weeks!  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-27T02:15:16.953" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3846" PostId="3574" Score="1" Text="I would give you +1 for the link but I don't have enough reputation yet to do that!  Cool tool, though.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-27T02:17:10.697" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3847" PostId="3575" Text="So, on an APS sensor, your example would require a 250mm focal length?  Interesting, if that holds, this is a very simple way to make a good guess.  Thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-27T02:22:33.250" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3848" PostId="3434" Text="@Gregorius if that is the basis for the switch, it's a logical one and it's one I've considered as well. The specs on the Pentax K5 look good, but I'm starting to sense a dead-end there that worries me. For a similar price, I can go Canon 7D or even spend a little up to get a 5D mkII and sell my Pentax gear to cover some costs. It's very tempting and I'm seriously considering it despite some of the true positives that Pentax has over the competition." CreationDate="2010-09-27T02:37:24.017" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3849" PostId="3569" Text="Thanks. I think all of the responses have confirmed my suspicions. Namely, that even though I am attracted to the idea of a zoom, I can't afford one I'd be happy with (not happy for long, anyway). I'll just have to get over my hesitation about primes and learn something new in the process." CreationDate="2010-09-27T03:06:36.117" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="3850" PostId="3576" Score="2" Text="I think you have a slight terminology error: prime isn't the opposite of telephoto, it's the opposite of zoom. Both primes and zooms can be telephoto - that just means a long focal length. Perhaps you could edit your question to clarify?" CreationDate="2010-09-27T03:18:37.850" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3851" PostId="3572" Text="At this point I don't think I have the patience for a manual lens. I actually have an old 135mm prime...I believe f2.8, which at some point in its very long life seems to have been modified from an M42 to a kind of k mount. I say 'kind of' because while it will fit on my K-x, it doesn't latch in place. This means that unless I am very careful, any adjustment to focus or aperture will cause it to partially unscrew." CreationDate="2010-09-27T03:18:59.940" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="3852" PostId="3576" Text="One other comment: it makes a difference what the planned use of the images is. For example, 11x14 prints will be much more demanding than blog posts. Can you clarify?" CreationDate="2010-09-27T03:20:03.247" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3853" PostId="3576" Text="Finally, what's your budget?" CreationDate="2010-09-27T03:20:48.363" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3854" PostId="3576" Score="3" Text="@Reid: Just FWIW, a telephoto does *not* just mean a long focal length. A telephoto is a lens that combines a relatively short focal length objective with a negative lens to get a long effective focal length with a (relatively) short lens body. In general you're right though..." CreationDate="2010-09-27T04:11:18.363" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="3855" PostId="3560" Score="1" Text="Can you please clearify why, or at least how?" CreationDate="2010-09-27T05:22:19.220" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3856" PostId="3577" Text="I always wondered why many traditional martial arts have you place your hands to the side, leaving your head vulnerable to attacks." CreationDate="2010-09-27T06:01:23.703" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3857" PostId="3567" Text="The answer is partly wrong." CreationDate="2010-09-27T06:13:41.313" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3858" PostId="3582" Score="5" Text="&quot;You can crop in post all you want, but you won't get that delicious stacked feel you get with long glass.&quot; -- Nope. Cropped 50mm *will* compress perspective the same way as 200mm. Image quality is going to suffer, but relative distances is what matters for the perspective." CreationDate="2010-09-27T06:31:54.623" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3859" PostId="3567" Text="@karel, thanks - I meant blue filter not red filter! A blue filter can stop you blowing the red channel and getting sensor bloom" CreationDate="2010-09-27T07:40:43.170" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3860" PostId="3580" Text="The interpolation algorithms work absolutely fine when only 1 correctly exposed channel is available - otherwise they wouldn't be able to cope with objects that are purely one colour (red, green or blue). " CreationDate="2010-09-27T07:45:19.823" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3861" PostId="3580" Text="@Matt - sure, they work, but the question is if this is the best data to start out with." CreationDate="2010-09-27T07:50:59.567" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3862" PostId="3567" Text="Better now :) Still, you wouldn't use strong color filter to correct lightning, you should use the weaker color correction filters instead. See also this answer: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/586/are-colour-filters-worth-using-with-digital-cameras/619#619" CreationDate="2010-09-27T07:57:29.780" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3863" PostId="3575" Text="yes, it's the same as the more complete answer by Eruditass." CreationDate="2010-09-27T11:19:42.150" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="3864" PostId="3576" Text="Yes, I meant can I get by using a single focal length rather than a more expensive zoom, I have edited to replace telephoto with zoom." CreationDate="2010-09-27T11:50:03.187" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3865" PostId="3576" Text="For the sports shots, I think I would rarely be printing that big (unless I got something spectacular).  Most use would be online, or in a slideshow for DVD, with occasional prints up to 8x10." CreationDate="2010-09-27T11:52:17.097" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3866" PostId="3574" Text="@seanmc you do now  :)" CreationDate="2010-09-27T11:53:32.740" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3867" PostId="3576" Text="I haven't even bought the camera yet!  (D90 is getting affordable now that D7000 is announced).  I think I need two lenses to start: a walking around lens, and a &quot;sports&quot; lens.  I was hoping to get the 16-85mm VR, and was thinking of the 70-300VR (FX) but worried that it wasn't fast enough starting at F4.5.  Trying to keep everything under $2000 (taxes in).  I am in Canada (and it seems like Nikon stuff is often cheaper here than in the US?).  I can get the D90 body for $675 new right now, so that leaves me about $1000 for two lenses to get started." CreationDate="2010-09-27T11:57:35.213" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3868" PostId="3574" Text="+1 it is then.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-09-27T12:02:16.937" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3869" PostId="3577" Score="1" Text="Try hitting her in the head-- she's not as vulnerable as you think :)" CreationDate="2010-09-27T13:10:11.983" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3870" PostId="3582" Text="I think a telephoto is useful for shooting sports like F1 and Football. In the case of martial arts, I believe he will be slightly closer to the action." CreationDate="2010-09-27T13:25:38.423" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="3871" PostId="3583" Text="Good question.  I use lightroom for the speed of processing several hundred raw images in a single shot, but maybe Elements has now progressed to where PS was in cs2 or 3 (ie, has everything in it I would need for those rare times Lightroom doesn't work for me)" CreationDate="2010-09-27T16:14:41.020" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3872" PostId="3583" Text="When you say &quot;processing&quot;, what does that entail for you?  Batch edits?  File renames?  Metadata?  " CreationDate="2010-09-27T16:18:38.417" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="3873" PostId="3555" Text="Would be interesting to know why though. Most likely thing I can think of is that there is something stick below the sensor to catch the dust particles." CreationDate="2010-09-27T16:49:17.587" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3874" PostId="3583" Text="All of those, plus things that I do to individual photos, like spot removal, gradients (bringing the sky into the same DR as the ground), b&amp;w conversions, lens corrections for distortion, etc.  All I'd use ps for is HDR stuff, because if that exists in LR, I don't know how to do it." CreationDate="2010-09-27T17:06:42.793" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3875" PostId="3589" Text="Ah, that's the connection.  That's how ACR knows the WB &quot;As shot&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-27T17:28:42.657" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3876" PostId="3587" Text="Interesting on the tricky situation, with varying colors, thanks for sharing that." CreationDate="2010-09-27T17:33:11.413" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="3877" PostId="3555" Text="@Matt: That was the reason he gave, that the sticky trap was at the bottom and any other direction would just land it on a surface that would transfer it back through camera movement." CreationDate="2010-09-27T18:13:59.240" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3878" PostId="3572" Text="I second the prime suggestion. I recently got a 50mm f/1.8 Canon prime and I couldn't be happier with it (specially for the price)." CreationDate="2010-09-27T19:44:54.237" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="3879" PostId="3560" Score="1" Text="This is because the camera has a slight sticky pad at the bottom of the camera so when the sensor vibrates it will fall on to this little pad. If the camera is on its side or pointing up you just moving the dust around. If pointing down it just falls into your lens or mirror just to end up back on the sensor." CreationDate="2010-09-27T20:37:09.580" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="3880" PostId="3594" Text="I could do some foot work, but sometimes I like compressed field images like you might get with a long lens. Good feedback. Thanks" CreationDate="2010-09-27T21:38:04.877" UserId="1139" />
  <row Id="3881" PostId="3594" Text="Good point on the perspective changes.  I've updated my answer and highly recommend a zoom." CreationDate="2010-09-27T21:39:25.990" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="3882" PostId="3594" Score="1" Text="Zooming with your feet is much better for small objects - with landscapes you might have to walk for miles, and when you get there the composition will probably have changed significantly. " CreationDate="2010-09-27T21:42:38.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3883" PostId="3599" Text="Thanks for your anwser. Just one more thing - with VirtualDub I can create a movie effect like on timelapse movies. But - how to get the transitions between single images? I was thinking about something like one pictire fading out while next one fades in... Is it doable this way, or should I prepare those &quot;frames&quot; myself some other way? " CreationDate="2010-09-28T09:02:50.680" UserId="320" />
  <row Id="3884" PostId="3599" Text="Virtualdub just assembles the frames, so yes you'll have to create the effects elsewhere. You can achieve simple fading in effects by scripting Photoshop / GIMP but there are probably easier ways. " CreationDate="2010-09-28T09:20:56.410" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3885" PostId="3554" Score="1" Text="I finally understand my mistake. The colors are displayed on the distance ruler and that confused me. Now I understand that it is not distance related at all. Instead, it is related to the slider above where it marks the aperture for the current iso. So for example the &quot;yellow A&quot; mode means that built in sensor gives you enough light for f8 if I use iso 100 (independently of the distance), but if iso 200 is used, then it is enough light for f11. So the slider is just a calculator, but for two diferent things. iso+aperture-&gt;distance in manual mode and iso+color mode-&gt;aperture in automatic mode." CreationDate="2010-09-28T09:27:29.303" UserId="1483" />
  <row Id="3886" PostId="3600" Text="Well, yes, iMovie would be a solution if it wasn't Mac-only :) " CreationDate="2010-09-28T12:43:13.777" UserId="320" />
  <row Id="3887" PostId="3600" Text="Yeah, hopefully one of the other options will be what you're looking for." CreationDate="2010-09-28T12:55:14.807" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="3888" PostId="619" Text="It should be noted that a filter can only make the image darker, not lighter. By applying a blue filter, you only get more exposure in the blue channel because you darkened the red and green channels, causing you (or the camera's meter) to increase exposure via shutter speed, aperture, or ISO." CreationDate="2010-09-28T13:33:36.373" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3889" PostId="2575" Score="1" Text="I think you mean D700. As far as I can tell, the upcoming D7000 is a DX (APS-C) sensor." CreationDate="2010-09-28T14:33:29.930" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="3891" PostId="3602" Score="1" Text="For small objects build a light tent, see the answer to this question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3521/glare-issue-during-macro-photography" CreationDate="2010-09-28T15:21:06.430" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3892" PostId="3604" Text="Really? FAT16 is still supported by Linux and Windows 7, and is still used on lots of embedded devices, I don't think it's going anywhere soon! " CreationDate="2010-09-28T15:29:52.750" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3893" PostId="2731" Text="@jrista I've still got a 32 Megabyte CompactFlash card from an old digicam, still works on my latest DSLR but only holds 3 photos :-O " CreationDate="2010-09-28T16:09:56.127" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3894" PostId="3605" Text="+1 I found the first link usefull. I'll go and buy one. Hope it will solve my problem." CreationDate="2010-09-28T19:12:10.010" UserId="1503" />
  <row Id="3895" PostId="3609" Text="your answer is both educating and interesting, yet my need is very specific... and I do not want the reflection on my object... About the tent and the flash... This solution keep coming from all people, but it always feels a bit vague... I guess I have to build one and check if it helps. Thanks Asaf" CreationDate="2010-09-28T19:16:10.580" UserId="1503" />
  <row Id="3896" PostId="3367" Text="The stuff about the shutter speed is exactly the sort of thing I wanted to know!  Thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-28T19:47:58.257" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="3897" PostId="3609" Text="My first example approximates lighting tent effect. I'll update the answer to explain how this works." CreationDate="2010-09-28T20:21:18.623" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3898" PostId="3605" Text="The downside to using the CPL approach is that the CPL will lower your light by anywhere from 1-2 stops. In an indoor situation, this makes handholding very difficult. Further, indoor light (ie artificial light) is not polarized, so CPL's will have no effect on it. If you are dealing with light from a window, a CPL might help." CreationDate="2010-09-28T21:35:37.943" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3899" PostId="3542" Text="I'd love to know if there's a carry-on bag out there that fits SLR and lenses *plus* a desktop-replacement notebook - i.e 40x30cm in size, 4cm to 6cm deep (approx 16x12in, 1.6in to 2.4in deep) - not one of the compact slim macbooks many bags are pictured with." CreationDate="2010-09-28T21:39:16.207" UserId="137" />
  <row Id="3900" PostId="3600" Text="+1: I've used picasa for this purpose, it works well." CreationDate="2010-09-28T21:39:35.657" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="3901" PostId="3576" Text="@Jerry, by gum you're right. Thanks for the correction." CreationDate="2010-09-29T00:43:43.180" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3902" PostId="3582" Text="Why shoot at ISO 1250 and underexpose? What do you gain over shooting 3200 in-camera?" CreationDate="2010-09-29T00:51:13.757" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3903" PostId="3572" Text="@Sean, totally fair. Different strokes for different folks. I'm the same way - manual focus is too fiddly for me now." CreationDate="2010-09-29T00:57:18.753" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3904" PostId="3617" Score="1" Text="FWIW, to ensure &quot;everything covered legally&quot; you really should consult a lawyer." CreationDate="2010-09-29T01:02:20.380" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3905" PostId="3617" Score="3" Text="One other suggestion: if you're not a lawyer (and I assume you're not), don't try to write legalese. Write a plain-language contract that is straightforward to read. Fake legalese will trip you up down the line." CreationDate="2010-09-29T01:03:56.350" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3906" PostId="3617" Text="I didn't write these. They were in a photography contract template (which probably doesn't excuse it I guess)." CreationDate="2010-09-29T01:06:17.827" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3907" PostId="3621" Text="Thanks. I think I may go with terms that are more plainly read and obvious to all parties. See my edit if you could comment on these please." CreationDate="2010-09-29T01:36:18.977" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3908" PostId="3497" Text="I hear there are firefox extensions to upload easily. " CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:03:12.690" UserId="1504" />
  <row Id="3909" PostId="3619" Text="Good recommendation on the rental," CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:08:20.007" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3910" PostId="3624" Text="Thanks! Wish I could give you +2!" CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:14:11.873" UserId="677" />
  <row Id="3911" PostId="3563" Text="I think John's got it. ICM increases resource usage, and it seems very logical that power-saving modes of a lap top would disable extraneous services when they are not needed. I don't think it is the DataColor software that is &quot;kicking in&quot;, its more likely windows itself. " CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:38:07.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3912" PostId="3582" Score="1" Text="&quot;Cropped 50mm will compress perspective the same way as 200mm&quot;.  Really?  Maybe I'm not understanding this.  I thought Rob's description was correct.  I remember shooting (with film) the Seatle Kingdome from the top of the Space Needle with Mt. Ranier in the background.  When I shot wide angle the mountain looked very far away from the dome, but when I zoomed in, it pulled the mountain in much closer so it looked like the dome was just sitting at the foot of it.  Would that have happened just cropping the wide angle shot?  I wouldn't think so." CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:41:01.480" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3913" PostId="3619" Text="Haven't looked in to renting lenses, good idea.  Thanks.  The 85mm F1.8 is about $500 and the 80-200mm F2.8 is about $1249 new.  If it is &quot;safe&quot; to shoot at higher ISO with the D90, another possibility might be the 70-300mm VR F4-5.6 (which is about $450)." CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:46:04.937" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3914" PostId="3612" Text="This question is very similar to the one I asked over here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3489/special-care-for-telephotos They are not identical, but you might find useful information there. Another thing I want to mention, is that I am also buying this lens for a trip. You might consider buying yours rather than just renting it. If you buy it used and resell it when you get back, it might be a better deal(it was for me). Some things to consider are how well the lens sells, and how good of a deal you can get on it. In case you don't know, fredmiranda is a great place to look." CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:48:43.140" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3915" PostId="3619" Text="Remember that VR can't freeze action, and is only useful if your hand is shaky.  Also, if you're looking for decent used lenses with some sense of the quality of the lens, try, keh.com (I'm not affiliated with them, just bought stuff from them and liked it)." CreationDate="2010-09-29T02:48:57.033" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3916" PostId="3489" Score="4" Text="I used to self-deprecate, but I really sucked at it." CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:00:02.410" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="3917" PostId="3619" Text="Depending on your use and tastes, ISO 1600 or 3200 might be a fine limit. I use 6400 only when desperate with my D90. B&amp;W conversion can often buy you another stop." CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:06:12.993" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3918" PostId="3619" Text="I've used the 70-300 in a zoo and it was too slow in the indoor parts. I'm skeptical you'd be happy with it." CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:06:45.037" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3919" PostId="3627" Text="Thanks for your comments. I agree, at this stage (very early stage) I will stick with straight forward points. I do, however, understand the rights given. I grant the client use of the photos in whatever fashion they choose, whilst keeping full rights for myself to use them how I see fit (which would like extend merely to my portfolio)." CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:13:27.333" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3920" PostId="3621" Text="@Nick: Like I said, I'm not a lawyer, but on the surface that looks okay to me. I mean, I've had to peruse various software licenses over the years to see if a given open source project could be used in a commercial product and so far I've always been correct, but... That's not entirely the same thing. So, it looks good to me and, I think, were I to shoot under those circumstances I'd probably feel confident that the outcome could, at the very least, be used to promote my business. Perhaps adding such specific clause may be a good idea and give the warm fuzzies to the client. " CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:38:54.683" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3921" PostId="3489" Text="@seanmc LOL thats great!" CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:43:34.207" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="3922" PostId="3622" Text="When I hit a few sales sites, the telephoto range seems to start at about 85mm, but I wonder if that's because of the rise of the APS-C sensor more than anything else since 85mm is very close to the far end of the common portrait length of 80mm for standard full frame. Anyways, I think Wiki is pretty accurate in this regards, at least with zooms and the slower telephoto primes which would imply that the fast telephoto lenses are &quot;long focus length&quot; if their dimensions match to their focal length as they're often absolute monster lenses..." CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:48:22.867" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3923" PostId="3621" Text="By the way, the warm and fuzzies I mean to aim for there is that you want to be able to use them for you, not to sell them off to other businesses or competitor. That specific requirement is very common in the advertising creative world for portfolio building, even for fulltime staff." CreationDate="2010-09-29T03:52:16.920" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3924" PostId="3621" Text="Yeah I may revise the wording the specify that." CreationDate="2010-09-29T04:02:29.897" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3925" PostId="3623" Text="Yes, most of the mentions I found were in the context of large-format photography, for example: http://everything2.com/user/m_turner/writeups/telephoto+lens" CreationDate="2010-09-29T04:19:57.397" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="3926" PostId="3622" Score="1" Text="Physically speaking, 85mm would be the next step up from a 60mm lens. I've seen 60mm lenses, and I've seen 85mm lenses, but I can't say I've seen a 70mm lens. I just listed complete ranges without any holes. Wiki is accurate only when fully referenced, and a lot of the photographic articles are very lacking in the way of references to back up their claims. There may be a &quot;gap&quot; between 60mm and 85mm that we could call &quot;long focal length&quot;, but I think its a relatively moot point since there aren't many (if any...I think Sigma may make one) lenses that actually fill that gap." CreationDate="2010-09-29T05:47:37.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3927" PostId="3622" Text="I guess I left out zoom lenses. There are numerous zoom lenses that either start or end at 70mm, which would fill that gap. I've never heard of the range between 60mm and 85mm called anything special, and Wikipedia is the only (unreferenced) place that called them &quot;long focal length&quot; lenses that I know of. " CreationDate="2010-09-29T06:03:59.427" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3928" PostId="3582" Text="@Reid - Unless you have one heck of a workhorse camera, you gain image quality. 3200 is noisy, even with a killer CMOS chip. Why do I underexpose? I underexpose for two reasons. First and foremost ascetics. Many sports uniforms and gear have highly reflective material, as can be seen in the above frame. To control highlight burnout I underexpose. Second, 2/3 under will knock out a great deal of background, thus making for a cleaner image. I find it easier to bring low levels up then high levels down." CreationDate="2010-09-29T07:49:05.907" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3929" PostId="3622" Text="Wikipedia is indeed accurate here, if you look at any large format photography site there will be discussion of telephoto vs. non-telephoto designs. " CreationDate="2010-09-29T07:49:38.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3931" PostId="3622" Text="Also, classification by focal length like you have posted is really only used in the 35mm SLR world, outside of that the angle of view changes so much with film (or sensor) size that 100mm could be a wide-angle lens and 80mm a normal." CreationDate="2010-09-29T07:52:23.143" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3932" PostId="3582" Text="@che - you're partly right. &quot;Relative distance&quot; can effect compression, but to compare a 50mm with a 200mm at the distance and scenario seanmc is describing is inaccurate. There is no way he will gain, &quot;that delicious stacked feel,&quot; from a 50mm. Thinking about it for a day now a 50mm may work fine for TKD, as the venues are usually tight, but to compare the two lenses as same is wrong." CreationDate="2010-09-29T07:55:14.807" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="3933" PostId="3620" Text="It would cause confusion outside of the 35mm SLR world - the original question didn't specify format, and this site is about photography not just compacts/DSLRs." CreationDate="2010-09-29T07:56:01.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3934" PostId="3632" Text="A polarizer will reduce the glare but won't eliminate it, I would advise you investigate other solutions (such as a large diffuse lightsource) before spending money on an expensive polarizing filter." CreationDate="2010-09-29T08:46:32.003" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3935" PostId="3632" Text="Thanks, I do need to check how to build a tent or some other method to defuze the light ... yet I'm in the gathering information stage and since it's going to cost me anyway... I'm trying to figure out what is the best and cheapest starting point... I do need perfect pictures (at least to my novice eyes) and I got all the time needed, nikon d50 ... so I &quot;just&quot; need to control the light - how and for how much is what I'm trying to figure out." CreationDate="2010-09-29T09:22:49.327" UserId="1503" />
  <row Id="3936" PostId="3106" Text="@Nick - agreed, that a DSLR will produce a better output given the same circumstances for a given shot. My point was more that a bad photo can be taken just as easily with a DSLR as a P&amp;S. The distinction I am making is between a good/bad photo vs good/bad digital image - that is down to the photographer =]" CreationDate="2010-09-29T09:58:56.487" UserId="86" />
  <row Id="3937" PostId="3620" Text="Perhaps it would, but the percentage of camera users using a camera larger than the 35mm format is statistically small enough that it approaches zero. So, while you're technically correct, the vast common usage would suggest that there is no practical confusion." CreationDate="2010-09-29T10:37:03.017" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3938" PostId="3635" Text="Do you mean color vision deficiency (very common) or actual color blindness (quite rare)?" CreationDate="2010-09-29T11:24:36.140" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3939" PostId="3633" Score="2" Text="What makes you think they're &quot;locked&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-09-29T11:36:38.177" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3940" PostId="3582" Text="@Rob, @seanmc: I've tried it with cropped 24mm and 70mm. See for yourself if you can find any differences in how stacked the image looks: http://vvv.mokrakocicka.cz/gang/100929_crop.jpg" CreationDate="2010-09-29T11:40:45.717" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3941" PostId="3635" Score="2" Text="I mean either, really.  I intended the question to be broad, so as to be useful to as many people as possible.  :)" CreationDate="2010-09-29T11:47:42.490" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3942" PostId="3434" Text="@John yeah... i made the call a year ago to go with sony. I really thought they'd push more into the slr market. Seems they're concentrating more on their consumer market (Nex series etc), which has got me thinking i made the wrong choice. Their cameras are excellent... seriously probably better than any competitor camera at the same price point... but there is big benefit in having a large user base, one which cannot be made up for with features or value for money. One which i find i'm craving now. Definitely going to make the switch, and quite excited about it :) Good luck with your decision" CreationDate="2010-09-29T13:13:50.353" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="3943" PostId="3645" Text="Thank you for going into some great detail.  :)" CreationDate="2010-09-29T13:16:07.443" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3944" PostId="3644" Score="1" Text="Thank you for sharing your own experience.  That's really helpful.  :)" CreationDate="2010-09-29T13:16:34.370" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3945" PostId="3638" Text="You mean continuous autofocus, or one off when the user wants?" CreationDate="2010-09-29T13:18:35.287" UserId="253" />
  <row Id="3946" PostId="3640" Score="2" Text="It's a real shame his website is so ghastly." CreationDate="2010-09-29T13:48:18.677" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="3947" PostId="3638" Text="I believe you can turn it off, it's a focus mode setting on the camera (AF-F) so I would assume switching it to any other would disable it." CreationDate="2010-09-29T14:51:46.860" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3948" PostId="3648" Text="We'll see what happens when my polarizer arrives. Thanks for the explanation." CreationDate="2010-09-29T14:53:02.537" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="3949" PostId="3560" Text="Rish is correct -- it's not just that the dust get knocked off the sensor, but they get trapped and not allowed to get back on.  That's what the sticky surface is for.  Hold the camera in landscape and level during cleaning." CreationDate="2010-09-29T15:08:59.693" UserId="1416" />
  <row Id="3950" PostId="3643" Text="Damn that looks like exactly what I wanted, but I hope Canon had a camera that did this, not sure I want to commit to Sony... What do I do now :)" CreationDate="2010-09-29T15:49:58.713" UserId="253" />
  <row Id="3951" PostId="3643" Score="2" Text="Technically, the Alpha A55 is an SLT (single lens translucent) not an SLR, as it has a translucent mirror in stead of a reflexive one. This gives it the unique ability to auto-focus during video recording by using its phase-detection AF. As I understand it, that is impossible for any existing SLR on the market, as it is a fundamental shift in camera design. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonyslta55/default.asp" CreationDate="2010-09-29T15:54:28.533" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="3952" PostId="3590" Text="Thanks, that's helpful." CreationDate="2010-09-29T17:06:41.160" UserId="1494" />
  <row Id="3953" PostId="3592" Text="Your tips seem terrific! Thanks." CreationDate="2010-09-29T17:07:02.657" UserId="1494" />
  <row Id="3954" PostId="3648" Score="3" Text="Depending on the brand and model, some UV filters can block up to 8% of visible light. Many are cheap enough that they do not even adequately block UV, so carefully researching and buying a UV filter that only filters about 2% of visible light and 90% or more of UV light is important. " CreationDate="2010-09-29T18:42:56.323" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3955" PostId="3106" Text="The vision, I agree. Photography is part gear, part artist, if you could say that. But an artist with gear to match his skill will go a longer way." CreationDate="2010-09-29T22:05:36.923" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3956" PostId="3627" Text="Sure, no problem. While I'm still not convinced that you understand what you're keeping and granting (your language is fairly vague and your clarification was basically a restatement of the above), there's no need obviously for you to convince random internet strangers like myself. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-29T23:12:57.600" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3957" PostId="3658" Text="Probably the only thing I would miss if I had the money for a 5D (or someone gave me one :D) would be the 6.3fps of my 50D, let alone the even faster rate of a 7D. 3.9fps is almost half as slow, though they say the 5D is not designed for action shots like sports etc, I suppose." CreationDate="2010-09-30T00:43:19.400" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="3958" PostId="3582" Text="@Rob, sounds like you're underexposing for exposure headroom, not noise control. I think I just misread you. Thanks for the clarification." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:11:10.623" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3959" PostId="3582" Text="@rob, @seanmc - perspective depends wholly on distance to the subject. Magnifying the image with a long lens or cropping are equivalent from a perspective perspective (haha)." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:13:32.537" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3960" PostId="3647" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter; slightly different question but pretty much the same answers." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:15:53.423" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="3961" PostId="3657" Text="Not a terrible question, although it does come off more as a discussion. If you are actually asking a real question, I'd rephrase it a bit. If you are looking for more of a discussion, let me know, and I'll convert to Community Wiki." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:22:28.730" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3962" PostId="3645" Text="Very nice answer. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:29:00.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3963" PostId="3646" Score="2" Text="I think the new Sony's are a different kind of camera...rather than being a DSLR, they use a translucent mirror." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:41:47.443" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3964" PostId="3632" Text="A quick note about CPL's...choose a good one, and if you can, examine it and test it out before purchasing. I've purchased CPL's that tend to add a variable color cast to my shots, depending on the angle and lighting. I've had landscape shots go from neutral to very blueish cast to very greenish cast as I rotate the polarizer. A good quality CPL shouldn't affect color balance much as you turn it." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:47:27.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3965" PostId="3657" Text="When I'm interested in buying something, after seeing the feature list, I go for the bad reviews to see what are the weaknesses of a given product. If several people complain about the same issues, there may be a problem in that aspect. The second (part of the) question is to know what are the strengths and weaknesses of different FF bodies based on you guys real world experiences" CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:49:49.100" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3966" PostId="3622" Text="@Matt: True, my list is very 35mm centric. I think mostly in terms of 35mm/FF digital, and tend to forget that there are large format film cameras out there. However, using 35mm as a baseline, you can shift that &quot;spectrum&quot; up to large format or down to APS-C via crop factors to see what ranges the lenses would be for different formats." CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:52:13.437" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3967" PostId="3542" Text="I'm a bit curious if there are any camera backpacks that would fit an 18.4&quot; laptop. I have a Sony VGN-AW190, which is a pretty large laptop with full 1080p screen. I use it for photography work when away from home, but it doesn't fit in any of the packs I've ever looked at. The biggest ones seem to stop at 17&quot;. " CreationDate="2010-09-30T01:59:50.110" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3968" PostId="3658" Text="Considering the amount of data it has to move, I'd say the frame rate is pretty good. It may be hard to get better, Nikon cut the megapixel in count on their most recent FF in order to push the frame rate up to 10/second. Of course, as technology improves, I expect this to change." CreationDate="2010-09-30T02:05:04.127" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="3969" PostId="3654" Text="basically soft focus across the skin only, masking out the eyes and other detail bits of the face and leaving them sharp." CreationDate="2010-09-30T06:33:38.893" UserId="94" />
  <row Id="3970" PostId="3662" Text="That exposure compensation control only works when the power switch is turned to the correct position - it does nothing if just set to &quot;On&quot;, so I'd suggest that would be an unfair downside" CreationDate="2010-09-30T08:08:20.717" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3971" PostId="3650" Text="Great answer. I like your comments about &quot;visual signature&quot; and &quot;shift in emphasis&quot;.  I will mull those over some more.  Also, your links to tools are handy.  Thank you again!" CreationDate="2010-09-30T09:18:22.153" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3972" PostId="3653" Text="That's very informative.  Thank you.  :)" CreationDate="2010-09-30T09:19:37.050" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="3973" PostId="3663" Text="Thanks about the tip on searching for &quot;5DmkII skintones&quot;. I'll do some research. But, did you **personally** had problems with this or is it something you read or heard about? I'm asking this because if you personally experienced this problem, we may dive a little bit further into the issue." CreationDate="2010-09-30T10:48:59.390" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3974" PostId="3658" Text="Can you define &quot;really powerful computer&quot;? Just as a reference would an i7 with 8GB of RAM, 300GB of disk and WEI of 4.3 be enough? I know I'd probably need external storage, but how  much? " CreationDate="2010-09-30T10:54:28.600" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3975" PostId="3658" Text="I've been seeing repeated complains about it AF. Do you have anything to say about that?" CreationDate="2010-09-30T10:57:09.390" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3976" PostId="3662" Text="I search stackexchange for the upsides and if i don't find anything I'll post a separate question. Thanks for your answer." CreationDate="2010-09-30T10:59:08.000" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3977" PostId="3664" Text="How about comparing their weather sealing? What are the kinds of things I could do with 1Ds3 (or other bodies) that would be risky doing with 5D2?" CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:02:08.163" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3978" PostId="3643" Text="That's true. My question should probably be about &quot;interchangeable lens cameras&quot; rather than &quot;single reflex&quot;." CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:05:02.247" UserId="253" />
  <row Id="3979" PostId="3660" Text="I heard a couple of times about renting here in SE, but I never heard anybody talking about renting here in Brazil. I'm going to take o look into that." CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:09:38.960" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="3980" PostId="3664" Text="@Alfred I cannot find a figure for the weather sealing on the 1Ds, however the 5D2 can apparently withstand 10mm rain/hour." CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:24:15.437" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3981" PostId="3666" Text="@Matt not sure if you realised, but clicking the star underneath the voting buttons lets you flag this as a favourite, which then shows in your profile, for easy reference." CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:27:52.887" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3982" PostId="3665" Text="What sort of sizes are you interested in printing? Some places only print for specific aspect ratios, where others will print to the nearest centimetre; Have you considered what finish you'd like? Its worth adding as much detail as possible to your question to get the best from the answers." CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:30:19.043" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="3983" PostId="3662" Text="@Rowland - it's not a problem that I accidentally set exposure compensation, it's rather a problem that I can't do it. When I'm out shooting, it's set so that I can compensate, but it has happened many times that when I raise the camera to my eye, it's either turned off or in the position where it's on, but exposure compensation is disabled." CreationDate="2010-09-30T11:31:53.080" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3984" PostId="3663" Text="It's not something I personally have experience of (I'll clarify my post!) but there was a lot of talk about this when the mkII was released. It's worth knowing that the R/G/B dyes used in sensor manufacture differ from sensor to sensor so colour rendering will allways vary somewhat. In my experience the mkI had very good colour rendering. It's more of a problem if you shoot JPEG and prefer not to edit colours in post." CreationDate="2010-09-30T12:01:30.587" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3985" PostId="3666" Text="yep meant to do that, thanks for reminding me!" CreationDate="2010-09-30T12:10:11.770" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="3986" PostId="3640" Text="Interresting, especially that he became a photographer *because* he is blind. :)" CreationDate="2010-09-30T12:12:56.633" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="3987" PostId="3662" Score="1" Text="On MkII I can switch from histogram to full-screen photo display by magnifying the view." CreationDate="2010-09-30T13:22:12.000" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3988" PostId="3662" Text="@che - that's good trick, I'll try it on my MkI too." CreationDate="2010-09-30T13:27:23.020" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="3989" PostId="3662" Text="The first level of &quot;magnification&quot; on MkII in details mode is full-screen display of the photo. Dunno how MkI has it, but it definitely doesn't not work on 30D." CreationDate="2010-09-30T13:32:20.153" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3990" PostId="3658" Text="@Alfred Myers: 11 seconds of 25fps full HD takes 51 megabytes." CreationDate="2010-09-30T13:34:03.037" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="3991" PostId="1202" Text="I've found the Facebook support in Lightroom 3.2 to be a bit flaky." CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:03:57.683" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="3992" PostId="3668" Score="1" Text="You might want to mark some answers to your previous questions as 'accepted'-- it encourages people to answer your questions." CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:05:32.133" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="3994" PostId="3658" Text="I think an i7 with 8GB would be fine, but you need a fast disk as well, I installed two SSD (Intel X25G2) in my desktop as well. That's for editing, once you are done, any amount of external storage is fine for archival (not for editing). Shop for your graphics card carefully since Adobe CS5 (Premiere / After Effects) is now not only much faster in 64 bits, but supports impressive GPU acceleration on some NVidia cards. " CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:23:48.813" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3996" PostId="3662" Text="I actually have never noticed the playback time was slow. This won't bother you, Alfred. Lack of internal flash: if you are serious about flash photography, you do not want to shoot with your flash on axis anyway, and you won't regret buying a 580EXII flash (or 430EX even), the former is very well integrated with the 5DMII menus and both are so much more powerful than any internal flash." CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:27:47.933" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3997" PostId="3663" Text="a) That's the first time I hear about that &quot;colours / rendering of caucasian skintones&quot; issue, and I never experienced it. Then again, I shoot RAW, I like to be in control of my W/B. b) I actually shoot with center AF point only, not outside points, but he is correct, the center point is more accurate since it is cross-type. c) if you don't shoot sports you will be fine with the shooting speed. I do shot sports occasionally, and this wasn't really an issue to me, more a blessing actually (imagine 9 times 21MP per second, ouch)." CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:31:13.827" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="3998" PostId="3661" Text="Just out of curiosity, which version of Lightroom are you using? I've tried the same thing in LR3, and the Keyword editor never stays selected. :( I'd LOVE to be able to do this, but thought it wasn't possible." CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:53:21.623" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="3999" PostId="3668" Text="Ditto on what MMR said. Try to accept the correct answer to your question. It not only helps you, but it also helps the community." CreationDate="2010-09-30T15:54:30.153" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4000" PostId="3673" Text="really nice system!" CreationDate="2010-09-30T16:36:41.780" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4001" PostId="3666" Text="Matt, thanks for the answer. I already expect the frame to cost even more than the print!" CreationDate="2010-09-30T16:41:10.310" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4002" PostId="3674" Text="That frame shop sure is interesting!" CreationDate="2010-09-30T16:44:20.797" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4003" PostId="3662" Text="@che - sadly on MkI  the first level of magnification does not show full frame. @sebastien - the question was about downsides, so I don't see a reason to argue here. For me the playback time is a major annoyance, as I've been using other cameras that don't have it." CreationDate="2010-09-30T17:26:44.803" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="4004" PostId="3662" Text="@sebastien.b: I also never considered playback time to be slow, but when I measured it it confirmed 1.4 seconds. Maybe it depends on personal taste." CreationDate="2010-09-30T18:28:09.440" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="4005" PostId="3662" Text="@sebastien.b - just put it into perspective - @Matt Grum above complains about 145ms of viewfinder blackout, 1.4 seconds is ages compared to that." CreationDate="2010-09-30T18:53:27.143" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="4006" PostId="3663" Text="The 5D2's lowlight performance is quite a bit better than the 5D. The 5D camera is nice, but the 5D2's high-iso/low-noise makes ISO 6400 a very viable option for shooting." CreationDate="2010-09-30T19:21:26.460" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4007" PostId="3662" Text="@Karel: I think it depends on your level of &quot;chimping&quot; :) I feel that by the time the viewfinder is not against my face and I look down on the LCD, the image is there. " CreationDate="2010-09-30T20:03:14.170" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4008" PostId="3682" Text="Hmmm, I must have been half asleep or something. It does seem to work fine. I'm sure it wouldn't let me yesterday. " CreationDate="2010-09-30T20:44:16.617" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="4009" PostId="3683" Text="I am adding my vote for Picasa, it is simple and effective." CreationDate="2010-09-30T21:45:12.747" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4010" PostId="3682" Text="If you do end up taking the Photoshop route, a batch resize performed on copies of the images (not the originals) would certainly speed up your workflow." CreationDate="2010-09-30T23:16:39.543" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="4011" PostId="3632" Text="I think this question is a duplicate of: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2515/which-polarizing-filter-would-you-recommend-for-a-canon-t2i" CreationDate="2010-09-30T23:57:30.740" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4012" PostId="3582" Text="@Reid: Interesting, I'll have to do some experimenting to convince myself." CreationDate="2010-10-01T03:02:50.083" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4013" PostId="3582" Text="Also, I'm not sure I'll need that much zoom.  For Tae Kwon Do, I can be within 15-20 feet of the particpants.  For the Figure Skating, there is of course the full ice, but I just learn where the skaters are setting up to jump (or spin, etc...) and be prepared to be positioned correctly (probably 20-40 feet away).  I'm leaning towards the 85mm 1.8 (and its cheap to rent to try out too).  Thanks." CreationDate="2010-10-01T03:05:42.090" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4014" PostId="3577" Text="I don't actually have any lenses yet, as I haven't even bought my D90.  I plan to have the 50mm F1.8 anyway, so I guess I could start there and see if I need the 85mm (or a zoom).  For TKD, the 50mm may be enough." CreationDate="2010-10-01T03:07:24.320" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4015" PostId="3668" Text="Whoops, 0% accept rate? I use five stackexchange sites and have marked lots of questions as answers, but apparently not on photo-se. I'll go through my questions, thanks for the hint." CreationDate="2010-10-01T06:10:02.673" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4016" PostId="3682" Text="I don't think you need 300 dpi if you're going for sizes like A1; 180 dpi will do nicely." CreationDate="2010-10-01T07:01:19.340" UserId="878" />
  <row Id="4017" PostId="3680" Text="Is there a way to make LR not show the embedded jpg, so the result would not be this surprising?" CreationDate="2010-10-01T08:20:17.727" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4019" PostId="3684" Text="Awesome! I really like this :)" CreationDate="2010-10-01T11:20:28.427" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4020" PostId="506" Text="40-50% overlap is, in my experience, a bit too much. better aim for a 25%" CreationDate="2010-10-01T11:25:04.720" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4021" PostId="3691" Score="1" Text="What's the battery life like? What's the software like to match the photos to location? What format files can you get from it?" CreationDate="2010-10-01T12:15:27.623" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4022" PostId="3685" Score="5" Text="I'd love to know how effective these are, as well as if they support export to GPX, etc." CreationDate="2010-10-01T12:33:41.190" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4023" PostId="3692" Text="That looks like some interesting software, but it seems limited to 50 images per collage but I want to use 365. Still, I'll keep it in mind for the future." CreationDate="2010-10-01T14:41:37.413" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="4024" PostId="3683" Text="I think I'll have another look at this, I uninstalled it a while ago when I switched to using Lightroom, and I Keep forgetting it has features like this." CreationDate="2010-10-01T14:42:37.957" UserId="40" />
  <row Id="4025" PostId="3681" Text="I saw someone accidentally setting his canvas size to 1024 x 768 inches instead of pixels.  He noticed because his text was coming out too tiny.  Now that would accommodate a large photo collage." CreationDate="2010-10-01T18:45:09.403" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="4026" PostId="3656" Text="Great examples!" CreationDate="2010-10-01T19:07:45.013" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4027" PostId="2294" Text="I bought it with the 18-55 kit lens. I wish I had gone for the 28-135..." CreationDate="2010-10-01T19:30:17.033" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="4028" PostId="3685" Score="4" Text="Does it have any Lightroom integration?" CreationDate="2010-10-01T20:29:50.760" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4029" PostId="3691" Text="Fair questions, @Rowland! I added the relevant info on the answer :)" CreationDate="2010-10-01T22:23:45.647" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4030" PostId="3686" Score="2" Text="Software does all this for you, interpolating the timestamped locations to align with the timestamps of the photos..." CreationDate="2010-10-01T23:03:55.663" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4032" PostId="3622" Score="1" Text="Although this entire answer doesn't really pertain to the question, here's a 70mm lens: http://www.photozone.de/pentax/127-pentax-smc-da-70mm-f24-limited-review--test-report &#xA;&#xA;You might as well throw a short telephoto range in that list.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-10-02T00:04:17.487" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4033" PostId="3686" Score="2" Text="Nope, wrong. That only works well when you are smoothly moving in a straight line. If you need &lt;100' accuracy, and you are not moving steadily, but instead are stopping for a minute, then moving for 30 seconds, then stopping for a minute, then moving for 30 seconds in another direction, then stopping for 97 seconds, etc... it fails to try to correlate your captured waypoints with photo timestamps: you can never do it without losing confidence in at the position of at least one waypoint." CreationDate="2010-10-02T02:01:37.377" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="4034" PostId="3686" Score="3" Text="There's one exception I know of, and that's if you have a GPS that is taking track points (in place of / in addition to waypoints) at regular intervals with decent positional accuracy, *and* your GPS is synchronized with your camera. The GPS's I've owned, unfortunately, make it very inconvenient for you to manage large #'s of tracks, so I don't do it that way, preferring to just be diligent about manually correlating waypoint ID's and pictures when I'm out in the field, so that I don't have to worry about it." CreationDate="2010-10-02T02:04:49.773" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="4037" PostId="3680" Text="you can use [PreviewExtractor](http://drchung.new21.net/previewextractor/) which extracts the embedded jpg's out of the NEF, and store it next to NEF. The embedded jpg's lack exif so I'm not sure if Lightroom will see them next to each other, but in theory it should." CreationDate="2010-10-02T10:10:12.333" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="4038" PostId="3607" Text="Thanks for your anwser. I decided to give animoto a try (especially I heard some good stuff about them before) and I'm really happy with what I got. Beats writing my own script to do that, which I was about to get started :) the result I got is here http://animoto.com/play/ArsHsZ8IJHYgC6x8JIztYQ" CreationDate="2010-10-02T14:41:21.530" UserId="320" />
  <row Id="4039" PostId="1566" Text="@Karel, script now implemented. Thanks again!" CreationDate="2010-10-02T20:42:32.383" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4040" PostId="3607" Score="1" Text="There are some really great shots in there, and I think the video does tie them together as a story. I'm glad it worked out so well for you. I'm sure the couple will love it!" CreationDate="2010-10-02T20:45:30.080" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="4041" PostId="3699" Text="Surprisingly, this seems like a hard thing to do. While a quick search turned up a few non-free programs that claimed to be able to edit PNG metadata, the only free options I found were for command line programs; not the easiest things to use. http://blog.client9.com/2007/08/editing-png-metadata-from-command-line.html" CreationDate="2010-10-02T21:23:19.747" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="4042" PostId="3702" Text="It seems like this area of the photo is out of focus, in which case the only fix is to bring it into focus. Does this also happen in focused areas?" CreationDate="2010-10-03T08:00:16.247" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4044" PostId="3699" Score="2" Text="What operating system(s) are you interested in doing this on?" CreationDate="2010-10-03T09:24:21.070" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4045" PostId="3680" Text="Davy, I want to get rid of the embedded jpg, to not show it, how would extracting a copy to an additional file would help this??" CreationDate="2010-10-03T10:49:57.930" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4047" PostId="883" Score="1" Text="Exactly. A stop is the square root of 2 = 1.4" CreationDate="2010-10-03T13:28:49.260" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="4048" PostId="3708" Text="Wow, thanks for the find! Works great. The only *minor* inconvenience is that it generates an entry in the History each time you move the slider and it regenerates the view, but nothing that can't be removed. The full screen preview is actually pretty fast on my system." CreationDate="2010-10-03T15:23:01.567" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4049" PostId="3713" Text="@Guffa: Isn't how near/far can you focus = focal length?" CreationDate="2010-10-03T19:51:20.570" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="4050" PostId="3680" Score="1" Text="@Sam, don't think you can get LR NOT to show the embedded jpeg initially.  Personally, I just tell LR to start importing (and additionally generate 1:1 previews) and go and make a coffee.  By the time I come back, it's usually generated it's own previews, so I never really see the embedded ones myself." CreationDate="2010-10-03T20:00:40.673" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="4051" PostId="3713" Score="1" Text="@Lazer: No, the focal length is how far from the film/sensor plane the optical focal point is, and it's not the same as focusing distance. The focal point is usually inside the lens, and everything that you want to focus on is in front of the lens." CreationDate="2010-10-03T20:04:38.090" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="4052" PostId="3667" Text="Manual focus offers flexibility and I agree that if you shoot anything good you will be using it but still continuous autofocus like the one the Sony A55 seems to offering is a very useful feature that I'd like to have for quick videos in holidays etc." CreationDate="2010-10-03T21:12:00.890" UserId="253" />
  <row Id="4053" PostId="3710" Score="1" Text="I've considered the same range of lenses and am looking forward to hearing from someone with experience with both.  Hopefully someone can shed some light on this." CreationDate="2010-10-03T22:21:16.943" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="4054" PostId="3711" Text="It is a noob question, but we were all noobs once! Welcome to photo.SE." CreationDate="2010-10-03T22:54:53.927" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4055" PostId="3715" Score="2" Text="All of these are quite reputable. My own preference is B&amp;H for new gear." CreationDate="2010-10-03T22:55:50.197" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4056" PostId="3719" Score="1" Text="Does haphazard count as a scheme? :)" CreationDate="2010-10-04T02:28:54.227" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4057" PostId="3701" Text="No, its not the focus confirmation light but the memory access light. It keeps blinking and the camera doesn't respond to any button I pressed." CreationDate="2010-10-04T02:48:48.203" UserId="128" />
  <row Id="4058" PostId="3720" Text="Hmm, &quot;big tubs full of stuff&quot; is kind of what I'm trying to get away from. Foam would help but I don't think this is the answer. I edited the question to (hopefully) clarify. Thanks anyway!" CreationDate="2010-10-04T03:12:52.653" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4059" PostId="3719" Score="2" Text="@John, it does, and so far I'm quite good at it. However, I'm not sure it meets the &quot;good&quot; criterion. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-04T03:14:33.230" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4060" PostId="3720" Text="They also make thin tubs and clear drawers..." CreationDate="2010-10-04T03:14:35.063" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4061" PostId="3720" Text="Is something like this more what you are looking for? http://www.staples.com/Iris-5-Drawer-Organizer/product_571771?cmArea=FEATURED:SC1:CG15:DP1525:CL140604 Sort of like a tool chest for camera equipment? " CreationDate="2010-10-04T03:30:27.877" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="4063" PostId="3661" Text="This is with LR3. Added that information and a screen-shot to show the area that stays active for me. " CreationDate="2010-10-04T04:59:57.100" UserId="1505" />
  <row Id="4064" PostId="3721" Score="3" Text="Have you an example to illustrate what you mean?" CreationDate="2010-10-04T10:50:42.180" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4068" PostId="3728" Text="Thanks for the answer. I understand that it's not related to the camera. Sorry if my question led to that conclusion. :-)" CreationDate="2010-10-04T13:02:56.597" UserId="1388" />
  <row Id="4069" PostId="2956" Text="Fantastic answer. However thefader looks easier to use!" CreationDate="2010-10-04T13:07:18.977" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="4070" PostId="3729" Text="+1 Not a bad solution... but if I have to take a laptop with me, then I might as well just use the laptop!  Still, it's inventive!  Thanks for taking the time to answer.  " CreationDate="2010-10-04T13:27:58.657" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="4071" PostId="3728" Text="No problems! Glad to clear things up for you" CreationDate="2010-10-04T13:29:28.643" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="4073" PostId="3737" Text="Even though the x90 has similar apertures to a DSLR kit lens (faster actually, it starts at f/2.8), the fact that the sensor is one sixteenth of the area has a serious effect on the depth of field making it impossible to blur the background in the same way as a DSLR." CreationDate="2010-10-04T13:52:06.353" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4074" PostId="3730" Text="The word is &quot;temporarily&quot; if you mean &quot;for a short period of time&quot;. &quot;Temporally&quot; means &quot;related to time&quot;, i.e. &quot;it was humid in a time-like way&quot;." CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:00:42.453" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="4075" PostId="3737" Text="Thanks for the clarification, Matt.  As I indicated, the pictures above were all shot with an FZ28, and they all show DOF blur.  It's true that it's easier to achieve this effect with my 30D, but it's far from impossible on the smaller camera." CreationDate="2010-10-04T14:41:54.737" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4076" PostId="3709" Text="I recently asked a question about auto-focus modes on my D90.  Using a different auto-focus mode might make a big difference with the movement issue.  Although as mentioned below if it's further than 20ft away it might not be a big deal... http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3696/when-to-use-a-particular-auto-focus-mode" CreationDate="2010-10-04T15:11:52.590" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="4077" PostId="3723" Text="See this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3096/what-makes-a-good-cameras-like-dslr-can-take-a-good-bokeh-and-the-other-cameras/3097#3097" CreationDate="2010-10-04T15:30:51.280" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4079" PostId="3608" Text="Seeing that Google and this community can't seem to locate the DPreview-style grid that I'm fantasizing about, I'd say this is the closest one.  Thanks for the great detail!" CreationDate="2010-10-04T16:29:21.873" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="4080" PostId="2956" Text="@Dan: definitely, I didn't know about it, thefader is only a few weeks old, great addition." CreationDate="2010-10-04T16:54:56.737" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4084" PostId="3730" Text="Thanks, updated" CreationDate="2010-10-04T18:55:05.310" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4085" PostId="3737" Text="Thanks for the examples, they've give me a real idea of what's possible." CreationDate="2010-10-04T19:51:57.800" UserId="1544" />
  <row Id="4086" PostId="3542" Score="1" Text="Not sure if this is helpful, but most airlines allow you a jacket in addition to your carryon." CreationDate="2010-10-04T20:51:10.190" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="4088" PostId="3608" Text="Yeah, I don't think such a grid exists, at least none that compare all three products (there are some that compare different packages of the same product on the Adobe site.) " CreationDate="2010-10-04T21:58:15.887" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4089" PostId="2956" Text="@sebastien.b I feel bad about changing the accepted answer :( Your solution will work great for scenario where i need to blend images" CreationDate="2010-10-04T22:58:57.000" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="4091" PostId="3715" Score="1" Text="Amazon is great if you're looking for a specific product or model, especially if you're a student and get free Amazon Prime. However, if you want to browse, Adorama and B+H are your better options." CreationDate="2010-10-05T06:45:39.037" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4092" PostId="3701" Score="1" Text="And it only happens when this lens is mounted? Weird. I'd suggest editing your question to specify which light is blinking." CreationDate="2010-10-05T07:17:52.030" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4093" PostId="3740" Text="gPhoto works really well. I use it fairly often. It is not as user friendly as I would like it (only comand line) but it does the job." CreationDate="2010-10-05T07:53:44.073" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="4094" PostId="3740" Text="thanks for the link.  I'll check this out!" CreationDate="2010-10-05T09:14:31.610" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="4095" PostId="3742" Text="Thanks for the link.  much appreciated.  :)" CreationDate="2010-10-05T09:14:55.933" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="4097" PostId="3745" Score="2" Text="What lenses do you want it to support as well as the camera? What do you intend to use it for? Will you need to carry it?" CreationDate="2010-10-05T11:04:39.323" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="4098" PostId="3745" Score="2" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:17:13.987" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4099" PostId="3715" Text="@EvanKrall I agree, also, adorama and b+h both tend to have nice package deals." CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:23:55.250" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4100" PostId="3746" Text="Thanks!  I'll check this out.  I stopped listenning to TWIP a while ago - perhaps I should start again!  :)" CreationDate="2010-10-05T12:49:14.533" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="4101" PostId="2956" Text="No problem Dan. I think my solution is still fine for Lightroom 2 users, since thefader is LR3 only. I like thefader because it's so much more convenient, but as its author stated, it does *only* interpolate the preset values that are scalable (numeric). Remember that you will get a different output than applying the whole preset manually and applying what I described. In most cases I'm sure this is fine, time will tell, I'm going to use it myself. So my answer is technically more accurate, but thefader is way more convenient, it really depends what you are looking for, it's your question :)" CreationDate="2010-10-05T14:39:03.917" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4102" PostId="3752" Score="4" Text="+1 for lightroom-- previous versions of aperture were quite hardware-hungry (no idea about the current iteration), while lightroom 3 seems to run pretty well on my 4 year old laptop." CreationDate="2010-10-05T15:27:35.997" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4103" PostId="3751" Score="2" Text="A cheap MacBook does not really run Aperture that well unless you buy a memory upgrade. 2GB of memory (standard in current low-end models) does not seem to be enough in practice. An upgrade from 2GB to 8GB made a huge difference for me (unbearable vs. useful)." CreationDate="2010-10-05T15:29:14.793" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4105" PostId="3748" Text="Thanks for the link. Sounds like the Zone VI is one to avoid, based on the reviews. Sounds like the gold plating is real as well, however it seems to be very thin and flakes off easily. " CreationDate="2010-10-05T16:12:27.993" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4106" PostId="2575" Text="Thanks Evan - fixed now." CreationDate="2010-10-05T16:34:52.790" UserId="185" />
  <row Id="4108" PostId="3759" Text="What mode were you shooting in? (Av, Tv, etc)" CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:08:26.507" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4109" PostId="3761" Score="1" Text="I believe you only need one flash and even the 420/430EX will do it: http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/view.asp?articleID=1026" CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:18:42.320" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4110" PostId="3759" Text="Manual w/ shutter at 1/200.  I adjusted aperture per ambient light + fill flash." CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:23:58.600" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4111" PostId="3762" Text="Great range of options - thanks." CreationDate="2010-10-05T18:54:15.513" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4112" PostId="3761" Text="But you want the scene lit with off-camera flash, correct?" CreationDate="2010-10-05T19:27:01.887" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="4114" PostId="3754" Score="1" Text="My response from Nikon support: &quot;Thank you for contacting Nikon USA and we apologize for the inconveniences. The 50mm f:1.8 lens is an AF lens that lacks the Silentwave motor. Since the D3100 also lacks such motor, focus has to be manually done. No Autofocus will happen.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-10-05T19:45:16.493" UserId="1556" />
  <row Id="4115" PostId="3761" Text="Cables are relatively cheap :-).  I'm not saying that's necessarily the way to go in every case; I just wanted to point out that maybe cost isn't as much of a barrier as one might believe.  Also people with new Canons, like the 7D, may have master capability built in, decreasing the expense of wireless flash for them." CreationDate="2010-10-05T19:54:09.120" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4116" PostId="3761" Text="yeah wireless isn't the only way to go - you can get some quite long off shoe chords which permit full communication with the camera body and thus all advanced features. Prosumer Nikon bodies also have the wireless commander built in,so only one flash is needed." CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:15:55.390" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4117" PostId="3760" Score="2" Text="Reducing the flash power wont however maintain the flash/ambient balance, I think what the OP wants is to be able to open the aperture without overexposing, in which case upping the shutter is the only option (assuming he's using the lowest ISO)" CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:28:42.417" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4120" PostId="3763" Text="Thanks for your reply!  What body were you using with the Nikon?  I would have thought the Sigma would be faster with the HSM and the Nikon having to rely on the torque available from the in-body motor." CreationDate="2010-10-05T21:42:48.983" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4121" PostId="3760" Text="@Matt that's a good point, though depending on the amount of light involved, he may be able to make other adjustments first. I'm just normally reluctant to put more glass on the lens until I've tried other options first, I guess." CreationDate="2010-10-05T22:21:10.413" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4122" PostId="3765" Text="Thanks - certainly lots of stuff to play with.  I'll have to keep the PW's." CreationDate="2010-10-05T23:05:49.033" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4123" PostId="3761" Text="Great info!  FWIW, I really like the flexibility of moving the flash around, but I'll definitely need to keep the cable approach in mind." CreationDate="2010-10-05T23:07:53.960" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4124" PostId="3745" Text="Is it acceptable for me to request that we add monopods to the optional answers? I want a good answer to this question also, but I am also willing to consider monopods. If necessary, I am willing to open a new question on this." CreationDate="2010-10-06T02:58:21.880" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4125" PostId="2052" Text="Although this question may be off-topic, it also highlights an important principle which affects many photographers:  the dilemma of &quot;do I buy now or wait for something better&quot;.  " CreationDate="2010-10-06T08:59:44.047" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="4126" PostId="3769" Text="I figured as much, just holding out hope that the 60D would have a similar screen seeing as its closer to the Rebel than before." CreationDate="2010-10-06T15:13:28.447" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="4127" PostId="3745" Text="Indeed, I should have mentioned it. The largest lens I have is a 75-300 which is the most I think I'll go for. The others are the kit lens and a prime. &#xA;&#xA;I plan to purchase a wide angle sometime in the future, once I've saved enough. But I think that will not be too much of excessive load when compared to the 75-300" CreationDate="2010-10-06T15:42:47.507" UserId="1551" />
  <row Id="4128" PostId="3747" Text="Exactly what I don't wish to do. Not buy /less/ tripod and then end up ruing it. Checking out Thom Hogan's article. Hopefully it'll help" CreationDate="2010-10-06T15:48:36.423" UserId="1551" />
  <row Id="4129" PostId="3745" Text="@BBischof Sure. Though I think for you, it would be better to ask it separately so that folks will answer the question accordingly :)" CreationDate="2010-10-06T16:04:48.127" UserId="1551" />
  <row Id="4130" PostId="3774" Text="I bought my D40 when D40x was out for a while. The &quot;older model&quot; D40 was significantly cheaper by then." CreationDate="2010-10-06T16:11:44.113" UserId="1566" />
  <row Id="4131" PostId="3786" Text="I wanted to add these tags to my questions, 'camcorder hd short-film low-budget', but I wasn't allowed to since I have less than 150 reps. Can someone please delete hdr tag and add these? Thanks." CreationDate="2010-10-06T16:38:59.757" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4132" PostId="3786" Text="@artknish: Done." CreationDate="2010-10-06T16:43:49.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4133" PostId="3784" Score="2" Text="The optical viewfinder is one of those subtle &quot;features&quot; that make a big difference.  I had a Canon G3 (which actually had a quasi-optical viewfinder), and I found this was one of the things I missed most when I changed to a superzoom P&amp;S.  I've yet to see a decent electronic viewfinder." CreationDate="2010-10-06T16:47:37.617" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4134" PostId="581" Score="2" Text="I have to agree with Mark and AJ, this is a valuable and viable topic for this site. Were about &quot;photography&quot;, which encompasses more than just technical questions about shutter and aperture and white balance...more importantly, photography is about real-world practice, experiences, artistic form, photography business (i.e. weddings), etc. " CreationDate="2010-10-06T16:49:51.793" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4135" PostId="3786" Text="Are you looking for a still camera that can shoot video, or a video camera that may or may not take stills?" CreationDate="2010-10-06T17:05:41.640" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4136" PostId="3647" Text="OK folks now for the verdict. UV filter + Circular Polarizer = No Problems Whatsoever." CreationDate="2010-10-06T17:14:10.777" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="4137" PostId="3745" Text="@Anant ok no problem." CreationDate="2010-10-06T18:17:13.167" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4138" PostId="3792" Text="Could you comment on the stability and maybe a bit about your experience with it? This looks like a nice option, but I would like to hear more. Also what model do you have?" CreationDate="2010-10-06T18:51:33.443" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4139" PostId="3792" Text="I've got the TrekPod II, which is the entry-level version.  Higher-end models break down smaller for traveling, and are lighter, I believe." CreationDate="2010-10-06T19:03:41.290" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4140" PostId="3792" Text="I take mine hiking, and I also took it on a 10-day canoe trip in Canada this spring.  It turned out to be a real help when portaging, as I ended up carrying an 80+ lb pack over portages up to a mile, and it was really nice to have a walking stick along.  I also ended up using it to pull myself out of a bog when my feet went into mud past my knees." CreationDate="2010-10-06T19:06:47.747" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4141" PostId="3792" Text="In terms of stability, it's not fantastic, as the legs are maybe 14&quot; or so, but as long as you find reasonably level ground, it's not bad.  Worst case, you can hold it in place while you shoot.  In any event, it's a whole lot better than no tripod at all, which was the alternative if I hadn't brought it along." CreationDate="2010-10-06T19:09:02.350" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4142" PostId="3794" Text="A video enabled DSLR plus wide angle *and* telephoto lenses, large capacity memory card would be hard ot come by for $600. " CreationDate="2010-10-06T19:40:59.977" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4143" PostId="15" Score="3" Text="*Thank* ***you*** PETER!" CreationDate="2010-10-06T19:46:30.410" UserId="13" />
  <row Id="4144" PostId="3794" Text="@Matt well, there was the &quot;I can afford more if it's really worth it&quot; bit" CreationDate="2010-10-06T19:56:19.523" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4145" PostId="3747" Text="@Anant, You won't ruin it if it's less than you need; tripods at the $100 price point aren't that bad. The (potential) problem is that it won't be stiff enough and you'll still have more vibration blur than is acceptable." CreationDate="2010-10-06T22:40:36.370" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4146" PostId="3774" Text="Got my D90 today for $639 (price matched + online coupon).  The D7000 is going to be $1249 at launch in Canada.  Great specs, but I can't justify the $600 price difference (before tax)." CreationDate="2010-10-06T23:12:06.247" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4147" PostId="3786" Text="Hmm, IMO this is off-topic given the current community decision: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/28/can-i-ask-videography-related-questions" CreationDate="2010-10-06T23:48:51.437" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4148" PostId="3780" Score="2" Text="The tradeoff is that less risk gets you less dollars. Can you give some indication of where you are on that scale? E.g., the safest way to sell used gear is not sell it, but you don't make any money that way. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-06T23:52:07.967" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4149" PostId="3800" Text="By fake aperture, I mean it doesn't actually reduce the diameter of the entrance pupil, which would affect the depth of field.  I believe it is real physical ND filter, which will reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor, allowing higher shutter speeds." CreationDate="2010-10-07T00:33:24.263" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4150" PostId="3800" Text="I think you mean lower shutter speeds." CreationDate="2010-10-07T01:37:12.157" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4151" PostId="3784" Text="&quot;I've yet to see a decent electronic viewfinder&quot; -- I love my Panasonic G2 :-)" CreationDate="2010-10-07T01:52:04.000" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="4152" PostId="3781" Score="1" Text="Agreed. You definitely won't get the best price (not even close), but the risk of getting ripped off is nil and the hassle factor is far lower." CreationDate="2010-10-07T02:23:59.140" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4153" PostId="3742" Text="Update with more links on same concept." CreationDate="2010-10-07T11:24:14.217" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4154" PostId="589" Text="I think this is a really good point, and would probably have changed my decision for me.  " CreationDate="2010-10-07T15:10:29.400" UserId="31" />
  <row Id="4155" PostId="3811" Text="@Matt Grum, I concur. The Exilims are fantastic at slow-mo. Love my EX-FH100 and EX-FH20 before that. But what you're suggesting is heretical to CaNikon folks. What a Casio, isn't that a toy? LOL. Did a short martial arts training vid with Olympus PEN + EX-FH100 + Senheiser Mic + Homemade Steadicam mount + Final Cut = Priceless" CreationDate="2010-10-07T16:23:25.417" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="4156" PostId="3813" Text="I really had no clue what tags to use for this, so if I missed one, go ahead and fix it." CreationDate="2010-10-07T20:37:47.700" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4157" PostId="3801" Text="That's a creative answer!" CreationDate="2010-10-07T20:56:59.640" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4158" PostId="3817" Text="I suspected this relationship." CreationDate="2010-10-07T22:33:37.507" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4159" PostId="3815" Text="These numbers are frustratingly low. I would have expected them all to be much higher, in particular the Rebels are pretty sad :/" CreationDate="2010-10-07T22:34:36.040" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4160" PostId="3029" Score="1" Text="@chuqui &quot;The third case (locations like museum where a monopod might be allowed and tripod not...) might make sense in certain special cases.&quot; You wouldn't deny an old man his staff, would you? -Gandalf Hehe" CreationDate="2010-10-07T22:37:50.930" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4163" PostId="3820" Text="Can't add anything to that. Book some time off and work your way through the archives on Strobist." CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:16:36.770" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4164" PostId="3800" Text="Yeah, my bad.  Lower, longer shutter speeds." CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:22:40.403" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4165" PostId="3814" Text="Correct. You should ask these kinds of questions in a separate Question or in the chatroom ( http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/255/photo-se-chatroom ), as they are not really answers." CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:23:27.500" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4166" PostId="3815" Text="The 1D(s) series are 300,000 for the later models 200,00 for the earlier models and the 5DmkII is 150,000. I can't seem to find any definitive information about the digital rebels. " CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:29:14.223" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4167" PostId="3815" Score="1" Text="The Rebels are rated for 100,000 actuations, as are the 50D and 60D. I've had my Rebel XSi for just a little over a year, and have done well over 10,000 shots. That number would be ludicrous for any DSLR. I can see point and shoot cameras having lower actuation counts, but when it comes to DSLR types or maybe micro3/4, 100,000 is probably the lowest you should find these days. For reference, see the chart about 2/3rds of the way down on this page: http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-Rebel-XSi-450D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx" CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:40:52.817" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4168" PostId="3815" Text="Regarding the &quot;average&quot; activations, thats what the rated numbers are. If a camera has a shutter lifetime of 100,000 activations, that is the average expectancy for that particular kind of shutter, not the absolute maximum. This is based on accelerated high-volume tests, where thousands of shutters are continually activated for a fixed amount of time, and the failure rate is computed across the full set of shutters in the sample. If you have a shutter rated for 100,000 actuations, then you should expect to get about 100,000 actuations out of it under normal use." CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:45:28.173" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4169" PostId="3815" Text="I had just found and posted the dpr Canon actuation numbers, a lot of point and shoots don't have shutters so the number of actuations is irrelevant." CreationDate="2010-10-07T23:49:40.170" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4170" PostId="3822" Text="5D Mark III? GD!" CreationDate="2010-10-08T00:58:38.483" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4171" PostId="3820" Text="The Strobist blog is the place to start, no question." CreationDate="2010-10-08T01:01:45.603" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4172" PostId="3817" Text="Thanks for the added info!" CreationDate="2010-10-08T01:20:31.567" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4173" PostId="3823" Text="These are some very good points." CreationDate="2010-10-08T01:20:49.613" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4174" PostId="3821" Text="This is very interesting, thanks for the link! The 450D section is very heartening. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-08T01:36:16.347" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4175" PostId="3809" Text="Excellent question.  I have a d300, and have wondered the same thing." CreationDate="2010-10-08T02:34:49.867" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4177" PostId="3779" Text="Thanks for your suggestion. :-) This is really helpful." CreationDate="2010-10-08T02:58:50.660" UserId="1565" />
  <row Id="4178" PostId="3784" Text="Thanks for your detailed explanation, Hamish." CreationDate="2010-10-08T03:00:16.953" UserId="1565" />
  <row Id="4179" PostId="3824" Score="1" Text="I don't shoot Canon, but I have to agree. I have several friends with the 7D and it produces some great shots, but you need to have good light to take advantage of it. Having said that, two bodies has an advantage when you don't have time to change lenses... For that reason, I intend to keep my Pentax K20 when I do the K5 upgrade." CreationDate="2010-10-08T03:36:35.920" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4180" PostId="3821" Score="2" Text="I have accepted this answer for the following reason, this is a much more scientific approach to the question than what Canon puts out, and I am a scientist. Many of the other answers were good, and even great, but I have to pick one." CreationDate="2010-10-08T03:47:29.470" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4181" PostId="3815" Text="I am glad your numbers were wrong. Thanks for your insight though. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-08T03:48:33.977" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4182" PostId="3795" Score="1" Text="I must say, all I see when I read the title is &quot;Diffuser for underwear&quot;. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-08T04:10:17.543" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4183" PostId="3829" Text="I personally use Adobe RGB, but I'm curious to know the answer.  " CreationDate="2010-10-08T05:40:10.063" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4185" PostId="3831" Text="I would strongly recommend using a larger space as that will give you much more control over your lighting. With a confined space you can't control the light bouncing back off every wall and surface so you'll never get deep shadows for example, and you light will always be soft, which might not be what you want." CreationDate="2010-10-08T10:10:50.847" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4186" PostId="3822" Text="Given the time lag between the 5D mark I and mark II being released (over three years) I wouldn't wait for a mark III, get a camera that does what you need now! " CreationDate="2010-10-08T10:37:10.033" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4187" PostId="3813" Text="&quot;is there a reference for knowing when a sensor is more likely to go?&quot; - it is not about the sensor really but the shutter life" CreationDate="2010-10-08T10:57:48.207" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="4188" PostId="3831" Score="2" Text="I quite agree with you, but I have the budget to buy strobes, not to build a new house ..." CreationDate="2010-10-08T11:18:02.040" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="4189" PostId="3824" Score="3" Text="I'm sure I also heard a rumour it was going to solve world peace ;)" CreationDate="2010-10-08T11:18:13.523" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4190" PostId="3806" Text="That looks a clever device, but I can't find any mention of delete. It is the delete bit that is key to trashing the rubbish shots" CreationDate="2010-10-08T12:02:11.833" UserId="458" />
  <row Id="4191" PostId="3823" Score="1" Text="A word about reliability testing. Fortunately it is possible to get meaningful estimates of expected lifetime without testing for the full lifetime. The technique is known as sudden death testing and typically can get results in only 25% or less of the time to do full testing. The following reference explains the technique http://www.weibull.com/hotwire/issue5/hottopics5.htm" CreationDate="2010-10-08T13:18:05.577" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4192" PostId="3822" Text="When talking about MIII one should also consider that cameras aren't really available for sale on the announcement day." CreationDate="2010-10-08T15:57:19.883" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="4193" PostId="3829" Text="Please see this answer for more useful information on color profiles and printing: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2624/what-are-color-profiles-and-where-would-i-find-information-on-using-them-properly/2626#2626" CreationDate="2010-10-08T16:47:58.700" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4194" PostId="3820" Text="Thanks for the recco. I've been following that blog lately (however it seems kinda cluttered and hard to navigate... lol). I tried exploring a bit about strobes on flickr. I was actually confused on which flashes to buy and which remote receivers to invest upon. Everything seem to have it's own pros and cons." CreationDate="2010-10-08T17:31:37.577" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="4195" PostId="3786" Text="@jrista: Thanks.&#xA;@D. Lambert: I'm looking for a video camera that may not take stills.&#xA;@Reid: Thanks for that. I hope that Q&amp;A site comes out soon." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:04:55.693" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4196" PostId="3841" Score="5" Text="This isn't a very reliable method since it assumes a) the counter hasn't been reset and b) there haven't been more than 9,999 photos." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:06:12.993" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="4197" PostId="3841" Score="1" Text="@jrista: Good point.  I'm aware of this, but wanted a better estimate of the actuation count because I expect that (1) over time the discrepancy between this and the true value might grow, especially if the counter is ever reset, and (2) I have noticed that in some circumstances the counter does not advance.  For example, it won't change when connected to a PC for remote shooting (even if you press the shutter button on the camera itself)." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:09:42.447" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4198" PostId="3820" Text="It is a bit cluttered. Start with the Lighting 101 series. And go through it a couple more times. There is a great youtube vid linked that explains terminology, that I think is really worth adding to your favorites. " CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:21:38.577" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4199" PostId="3841" Score="2" Text="I know its not an accurate test, but it would give you a ballpark number. Regarding tethered use, I guess it makes sense that it wouldn't update the image counter. If you've used it tethered, its probably a bad idea to use the in-camera counter. I would guess that opening the shutter for cleaning also doesn't get counted in the image counter, so if you've done that, it would also throw off the count." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:26:57.177" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4200" PostId="3830" Text="Thanks for the link, that seems to answer my question." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:36:50.147" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4201" PostId="3794" Text="@Rowland: It's actually $850 (on Amazon) + I guess there will be tax on top of that. I don't know much about the lenses except at very high level on what they do; for what I know, they're pretty costly, too. I guess it may all come around $1200. Also, I need to buy a Tripod, an external Mic, and I don't know what else for the short that I'm planning. Hmm.. Tough but I need to learn and know more about this camera to appreciate it and convince myself to buy it. Otherwise, I may just go with GeneQ's suggestion: Olympus PEN E-PL1. Thanks for your suggestion!" CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:37:15.553" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4202" PostId="3827" Text="I did observe the different numbers but I was wondering if it was possible anyhow." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:37:18.383" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4203" PostId="3822" Text="@Matt: not sure what you are saying. 5DMI and 5DMII are 3 years apart (announced late August 2005 vs early September 2008). That will put the 5DMIII indeed in 2011, probably September. Not really that far... there will always be birds in 2011 :)&#xA;&#xA;@Karel: actually announcement and release are getting closer and closer (a couple of months for the 5DMII for example). The market is so cut-throat, I assume this is done to prevent a competing release in between. Unfortunately this makes our lives more difficult; hard to plan." CreationDate="2010-10-08T18:56:07.853" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4204" PostId="3794" Text="@artknish I'm sure the link I'd linked to had them for closer to 750 USD?" CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:01:21.087" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4205" PostId="3744" Text="Camera Shake was my first thought looking at the sample." CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:02:54.577" UserId="105" />
  <row Id="4206" PostId="3810" Text="@GeneQ: This camera looks great for my requirements, except for one thing that bothers me: max. HD recording time is just 7 minutes (because of 2GB AVI format's limit). What I couldn't find out from the specifications is if that's the limit for a single file or for the entire camera? I guess it's just for a single file. So let's say if I have 16 GB of memory free on the camera, does that mean I can shoot 8 videos each of 7 minutes in length? Thanks a lot for the suggestion, it is very helpful." CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:07:46.800" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4207" PostId="3797" Text="@D. Lamber: I was looking for a video camera that need not shoot still pictures. Thanks for the Nikon D3100 suggestion. I will see if that works for me." CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:16:19.150" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4208" PostId="3811" Text="@Matt: A lot of the amatuer shorts that I've seen had fantastic video but really bad audio. In my opinion, having good audio quality is more important than great video quality for a movie if there's a compromise between the two. This, too, is an alien territory for me, but I guess having an external mic may get me started towards the route of audio quality." CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:24:45.477" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4209" PostId="3811" Text="@GeneQ: Do you have your martial video uploaded for public viewing somewhere? I would be interested to see it." CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:26:54.450" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4210" PostId="1401" Score="1" Text="These only work when you are in range of a WiFi network it knows about -- it doesn't actually have a GPS receiver..." CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:30:08.833" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4211" PostId="1338" Text="How configurable is the device? I.e. can you configure the refresh rate? How hard is it to export a GPX/NMEA track from it? Is there any integration with Lightroom&gt;" CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:34:30.337" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4212" PostId="3675" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1306/gps-and-canon-cameras" CreationDate="2010-10-08T19:36:20.753" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4213" PostId="3822" Text="I'm saying it's probably a least a year before the mark III will be for sale, is it really worth waiting that long? I'm a believer in getting the gear you need now, even if it's not perfect and not losing a years worth of shooting experiences." CreationDate="2010-10-08T20:49:43.367" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4214" PostId="3811" Text="It's not ideal but you could record the audio separately and sync it in post. For me as a photographer visuals are more important to me, having said that very few of the DSLR videos I've seen have live audio, it's mostly soundtracks. " CreationDate="2010-10-08T20:52:06.407" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4215" PostId="3794" Text="@Rowland: Ah, yes, now I see it. When I first clicked the link here, I quickly scrolled down and went to Amazon and stayed there for a long time reading the user reviews. The price over there was around $850." CreationDate="2010-10-08T20:54:36.717" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4216" PostId="3844" Text="So you can't do second curtain sync with a manual?" CreationDate="2010-10-08T21:23:09.577" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4217" PostId="3806" Text="I am not sure about delete, have not used it myself maybe another user may know" CreationDate="2010-10-08T21:29:28.697" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4218" PostId="3844" Text="not with a Canon - instead of simply sending the flash signal to the hotshoe when the shutter is closing, which would enable second curtain sync with any flash, the camera sends the shutter speed to the flash so a Canon E-TTL flash can time when the shutter is closing and fire the flash." CreationDate="2010-10-08T21:30:16.337" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4219" PostId="3847" Text="&quot;...100k doesn't seem that many.&quot;  If you were to use one camera body for full-time work and snapped one photo a minute throughout every working day, it would still take you two years to get to 100k.  The Camera Shutter Life Expectancy link given in the thread you reference shows that most shutters on popular DSLRs tend to last for much more than 100k, some up to 5,000,000 or more.  (That's one shot a second over two years of full-time work.)" CreationDate="2010-10-09T00:20:36.810" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4220" PostId="3844" Text="figures... does anyone know if there is any way around that restriction?  Perhaps an ettl wireless transmitter or something?" CreationDate="2010-10-09T03:14:30.153" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4221" PostId="3844" Text="Actually... using the flash as an optical slave could work for rear curtain, triggered by the onboard at low power." CreationDate="2010-10-09T03:21:30.667" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4222" PostId="3849" Score="2" Text="While technically you're right on photo count being different than actuation count, making a photo is overwhelmingly the dominant cause of actuations, so for all practical purposes they are the same." CreationDate="2010-10-09T03:54:24.457" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4223" PostId="3753" Text="I'm accepting this as the answer because this is sensible knowledge. You're right, until I try a bit (perhaps by borrowing from friends) I'll never know which tripod is sufficient" CreationDate="2010-10-09T06:25:19.370" UserId="1551" />
  <row Id="4224" PostId="3810" Text="@artknish It's a single file limitation. You can shoot multiple 2 GB files on a single card; space permitting. Up to 16 takes of 7 minutes each (112 mins. total) if you have a 32 GB card. Anyway, most movies, even professional ones, are shot in short takes; 2-3 minutes max. A seven minute take is considered exceptional. I doubt you'll reach that length. Small takes are also easier to post process." CreationDate="2010-10-09T08:27:40.510" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="4225" PostId="3810" Text="BTW, the following is an example what you can do with in slightly more than 6 minutes without any cuts (one continuos take); talent permitting of course: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnSIp76CvUI" CreationDate="2010-10-09T08:30:28.443" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="4226" PostId="3811" Text="@artknish Sorry, I don't own the copyright to do that. Did it for a local martial arts school. However, some Japanese ladies have posted something similar to what I did : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMh_qhosrg8&amp;feature=related" CreationDate="2010-10-09T08:45:01.933" UserId="979" />
  <row Id="4227" PostId="3810" Text="@GeneQ: Thanks for confirming that. Most probably, I'm going with this camera. Love that 6+ minutes continuous take; fantastic location, too. It reminded me of this fight scene from Oldboy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wha0brbb_44 (starts after 30 seconds - warning: it's a bit violent)." CreationDate="2010-10-09T09:40:44.893" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4228" PostId="3847" Score="1" Text="They'd be pretty short working days! But yes 100,000 is an awful lot!" CreationDate="2010-10-09T11:36:27.787" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4229" PostId="3747" Score="1" Text="@Reid, I'm sure he meant ruing as in rue the day." CreationDate="2010-10-09T14:56:34.433" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="4230" PostId="430" Text="Meh, just shoot in RAW.  Then you'll only have issues if you are mixing it with ambient light.  Even then, color contrasts can be fun if you aim and process it right." CreationDate="2010-10-09T17:01:14.320" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4231" PostId="3846" Text="How does Aperture interact w/PS?" CreationDate="2010-10-09T17:02:48.567" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4232" PostId="3846" Score="1" Text="@Rob: You can configure PS as an &quot;external editor&quot; in Aperture. Then you can use a keyboard shortcut that creates a new version of the file in the PS format and opens it in PS. You can use Aperture to manage both the original version and the version that you have edited in PS. It seems to work reasonably well (if your typical workflow is compatible with this approach). But of course you will need a *lot* of memory to have both Aperture and PS running simultaneously." CreationDate="2010-10-09T17:54:43.303" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4233" PostId="3854" Text="Thanks for the info! It's sounding like the lp160 is probably where I'll start." CreationDate="2010-10-09T18:14:15.190" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4234" PostId="3845" Text="@jrista...You and I both live in Denver, love photography and have groovy avatars...we should hook up some time. What do you think?" CreationDate="2010-10-09T18:24:30.327" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4235" PostId="3846" Text="Thanks for the input. I was wondering if they worked together." CreationDate="2010-10-09T18:25:41.353" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4236" PostId="3845" Text="@Rob: Sounds good to me. :) I haven't met many other photographers out here yet. We should hook up in the Photo.SE chat @ chat.meta.stackoverflow.com and plan something." CreationDate="2010-10-09T19:29:28.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4237" PostId="2927" Text="Very good one! I was thinking on doing something like that here in Brazil" CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:29:00.253" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4238" PostId="2114" Text="I'll rave about Lightroom 3 as well." CreationDate="2010-10-09T22:51:04.067" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4239" PostId="3857" Text="Also relevant: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses" CreationDate="2010-10-10T03:14:57.067" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4240" PostId="3857" Score="1" Text="Also relevant. This user is asking if he should go from 5DMII to 7D: Replacing my XXD with a 7D? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3819/replacing-my-xxd-with-a-7d/" CreationDate="2010-10-10T05:36:51.193" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4244" PostId="3860" Score="1" Text="As a Canon bod, I'd suggest it is often better to skip a range if you can afford it - better to get the low light performance of the 5D over a 50D for the sort of shots Alfred said he was after (If he'd said sports, then I'd probably fall on the side of the 7D)" CreationDate="2010-10-10T09:45:39.753" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4245" PostId="3858" Score="2" Text="Sounds like a Lightroom bug, it's not reading the printer profile. I would check the Adobe forums and then submit a bug report." CreationDate="2010-10-10T10:57:50.343" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4246" PostId="3860" Text="Thanks for the input Reid. By &quot;the only EF-S lens I have are those that came in the kit&quot; I meant that I don't have other EF-S lenses which are specific for APS-C bodies. I would be able to carry my two other lenses (one EF and one L) to a full-frame body." CreationDate="2010-10-10T11:14:20.897" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4247" PostId="3858" Text="I pretty much agree with Matt, it would seem like LR3 is either failing to read the printer profile or is mis-reading it in some capacity." CreationDate="2010-10-10T13:43:43.837" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4248" PostId="3864" Text="yeah I imagine most people will either keep their previous main body as a spare when upgrading, or get a spare with different 'abilities' that could still perform the main camera's job in a pinch. I can't see any reason for buying two of the same body in general!" CreationDate="2010-10-10T13:59:57.893" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4249" PostId="3864" Text="@Matt except maybe a commercial shooter who may want the same body in case one goes down. I have no idea how common that is though as most people I know with two follow the same model I'm planning on." CreationDate="2010-10-10T14:07:01.453" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4250" PostId="3863" Text="Can you give us a sense of your budget?" CreationDate="2010-10-10T15:14:11.700" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4251" PostId="3863" Text="Fow now I'm keeping my XSi as a spare after buying a 5D2 or a 7D (not decided yet). If I buy a 7D first, I'll be willing to buy a 5D2 (or its successor) in a year from that point. If I buy a 5D2 first, I'll only buy a 7D if I find myself missing its burst mode or some other feature it performs better than the 5D2. So the budget would be something between 1.600 and 2.500 USD for the body this year. This budget does not include the budget I've set apart for lenses." CreationDate="2010-10-10T15:56:03.100" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4252" PostId="3852" Text="I would expect the curve to follow a normal distribution? (i.e. a bell curve)" CreationDate="2010-10-10T16:07:08.970" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4253" PostId="3863" Text="What are you unhappy about with your XSi and kit lens? See my answer here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3857/should-i-go-5d-mark-ii-or-7d/3867#3867" CreationDate="2010-10-10T16:55:06.713" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4254" PostId="3867" Text="Please see the information I added to the question. Thanks for the link!" CreationDate="2010-10-10T17:23:28.153" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4255" PostId="3863" Text="I've updated my question over there http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3857/should-i-go-5d-mark-ii-or-7d/3867#3867" CreationDate="2010-10-10T17:25:28.103" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4256" PostId="3867" Text="Thanks for the update.  I still highly encourage upgrading to some of Canon's excellent constant f2.8 zooms first." CreationDate="2010-10-10T17:33:27.097" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4257" PostId="3867" Text="I plan on buying a EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM (http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_24_70mm_f_2_8l_usm) together with the new body." CreationDate="2010-10-10T17:36:51.867" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4258" PostId="3857" Text="@Alfred, thanks for the clarification. I think the confusion on the kit lenses stemmed from two things: first, since you didn't mention any other lenses at all, we read &quot;only EF-S lens&quot; as &quot;only lens&quot;; second, since this site has users of many photography systems, we don't know the Canon jargon and don't know that EF-S refers to APS-C-only lenses." CreationDate="2010-10-10T17:37:01.630" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4259" PostId="3852" Text="**@Rowland** had to reply to you at the end of my answer as it was too long to put in a comment!" CreationDate="2010-10-10T17:53:49.900" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4261" PostId="3867" Score="1" Text="While I do agree with Eruditass that the XSi (which is the camera I have) is certainly capable of taking some amazing photographs, as someone who has used it for almost a year and a half for landscape and wildlife photography, I can warn you: It WILL be the limiting factor. I can't count how many times I wish I had a wider field of view with my 16-35mm L lens, or how many times I wish I had better ISO performance for low-light evening shots or shots of birds. I put all of my money into lenses early on, and have kind of been regretting the cheap body lately, and wish I had a 5D." CreationDate="2010-10-10T18:29:50.890" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4263" PostId="3867" Text="@jrista But he has the kit lens and has not explored anywhere near the limits of the XSi.  If you upgraded the body instead of the lens, you'd probably have taken less impressive shots than you have to this day.  If you UWA, you should get an EF-S equivalent lens like the Canon 10-20mm, Tokina 11-16mm, etc.  Low-light shots with a lighting setup can be much better than higher ISO, and shots of birds are not on his list.  Upgrading both together is fine too, if you have the budget." CreationDate="2010-10-10T19:54:13.217" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4264" PostId="3867" Text="@Eruditass: Actually, he stated that he only has one EF-S kit lens, and that all the rest of this lenses are EF lenses. Given that he does have other EF lenses, and is planning to get the superb 24-70mm L along with a new camera, I think a better body will do him wonders." CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:04:17.203" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4265" PostId="3272" Text="What do you mean by &quot;Gimp?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:07:18.153" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4266" PostId="3272" Text="It's a free image editing program that's available for many different operating systems. See http://www.gimp.org " CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:16:10.183" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4267" PostId="3874" Text="@Rob: You've got it exactly. Given their definition of 'Product' in A, it makes B sound like a blatant copyright grab. Thanks for the link to ReedPhoto...I've been searching for local Denver print shots all day, and this one looks like a good one. (Most seem to be your run of the mill family photo print place, rather than a professional print shop.)" CreationDate="2010-10-10T20:38:32.847" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4268" PostId="3871" Text="My recollection is that EzPrints has a good reputation, though I could of course be wrong. I'm surprised that they would be attempting a copyright grab or even want to be appearing to do so. I'd suggest contacting them directly and asking WTF." CreationDate="2010-10-10T21:18:50.067" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4269" PostId="3871" Text="@Reid: That was my understanding, that EzPrints had a good reputation. In my experience, though, it is often those that have the best &quot;rep&quot; that also think they have a chance of pulling a fast one. I have become a hard-core reader of license and terms of use agreements these days, as you never know what someone may try to pull. :\" CreationDate="2010-10-10T22:09:11.573" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4270" PostId="3846" Text="Another point on the Aperture/PS integration: layers can be preserved, so you can come back and keep editing the same file." CreationDate="2010-10-10T23:48:10.170" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="4272" PostId="3878" Text="Thanks for the analysis. Between you and Reid, things make sense now. Given the confusion of their Terms of Use, and the fact that from a legal (rather than layman) standpoint, their terms are very vague and can likely be misinterpreted, I've decided to use another service: BigPhotoHelp (http://www3.bigphotohelp.com/index.htm). They seem to take any image of any size, and print in any size, on archival paper with pigment inks, for REALLY good prices. No funky legal business either, which pleases me greatly. ;) I ordered two 9.5&quot;x31&quot; panoramic prints on fine art w/ shipping from them for $18!" CreationDate="2010-10-11T00:48:45.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4273" PostId="3834" Text="You're absolutely right: the CMYK profile I used is for web offset printing. As you suggest, I'll probably just stick with Adobe RGB and have the printer perform the conversion for me. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-10-11T02:04:16.053" UserId="1588" />
  <row Id="4274" PostId="3873" Text="Yep, the camera is going in the mail ASAP. I somehow managed to get some OK shots, though." CreationDate="2010-10-11T02:29:03.123" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4276" PostId="3878" Score="1" Text="+1 for accusing @jrista of running a 3rd-world sweatshop. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:14:51.810" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4277" PostId="3880" Score="2" Text="What kind of night shots, exactly?  Landscapes and a person in front?  The moon and stars?  Highways where you can see taillight trails?" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:15:05.747" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4278" PostId="3871" Text="(Previous comment deleted and folded into answer.)" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:35:33.447" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4279" PostId="3871" Text="@jrista: I hear you on the fast ones, but keep in mind that not all institutions with a good reputation will try to do that. It sounds like you are saying that one should be more suspicious of institutions with a *good* reputation than a bad one, which doesn't seem right to me." CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:38:05.233" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4280" PostId="3878" Text="LOL, I missed the sweatshop comment. :D +1" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:39:34.403" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4281" PostId="3882" Text="I think you've figured it out. I guess I misunderstood Part 2a at first, thinking it was referring to my own work. The term &quot;Products&quot; makes a lot more sense now. Thanks for the analysis! And a big &quot;Whoop&quot;, &quot;Holler&quot; and &quot;YAY!&quot; for crappy legal speak. &gt;.&gt; Lawyers...meh." CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:40:52.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4282" PostId="3880" Score="1" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! As @mmr notes, though, we need some more info to properly answer your question. You will see an &quot;edit&quot; link below your question, and you can use that to edit it and add more detail." CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:41:58.563" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4283" PostId="3647" Text="Thanks for the update! FWIW, other readers should be aware that @GeneQ's good results may not generalize." CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:43:26.033" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4284" PostId="3880" Text="Ditto on what MMR and Reid said. More more more! Info is KING!" CreationDate="2010-10-11T03:45:13.953" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4285" PostId="3871" Text="@Reid: I agree, it doesn't sound right, but think about how many times reputable companies have tried to pull a fast one on us, or used crappy legal means to make money when their business tactics fail to meet changing markets. To pick some from the tech and entertainment industries: Microsoft, Google, Apple, RIAA, MPAA, etc. Legal documents can be a blessing and a curse, sometimes simultaneously, and I've learned the hard way to be massively suspicious of any legal document. Just compare BigPhotoHelp's policies with EzPrints: http://www3.bigphotohelp.com/policiesapt.htm" CreationDate="2010-10-11T04:03:53.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4286" PostId="3871" Text="Another example is game companies. If you've never read the EULA for a PC game, read a few. Particularly from the BIGGEST and most well-known game company on earth: EA Games. They have some of the most sniveling, sneaky, underhanded, filthy lawyers on earth writing their agreements. Not only that, you usually can't read the EULA until you've purchased a game and started installing it, and yet they've also managed to weasel in that &quot;no game returns&quot; policy everywhere they are sold. Reputation and legal underhandedness seem to go hand in hand, hence my excessively suspicious nature." CreationDate="2010-10-11T04:07:25.073" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4287" PostId="3852" Text="@Matt: I think what Rowland meant was that shutter failures  tend to occur around the time they are expected to, with failures happening earlier or later occurring less and less. Think of it similar to IQ: You have the average IQ, 100, occurring most frequently, plotted center-graph, with IQ's of 80 and 120 occurring less often, and IQ's of 75 or 135 even less often, and anything beyond that a tiny fraction of the time. A shutter rated for 100k should fail at 50k or 150k less often than 100k, and 25k or 175k even less often, hence...a bell curve distribution." CreationDate="2010-10-11T04:25:24.023" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4288" PostId="3852" Text="**@jrista** That's exactly what I said - **shutter lifetime** (i.e. 100k actuations) follows the normal distribution, **failure rate** (i.e. the probability the shutter will fail at X actuations) follows the bathtub curve. " CreationDate="2010-10-11T08:05:38.067" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4289" PostId="3886" Text="I'd suspect that Flickr might not include the colour profile when it generates its smaller sizes, as well." CreationDate="2010-10-11T11:07:59.067" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4290" PostId="3886" Text="The files containing profiles are not my main problem. My main problem are the images which do not contain a profile." CreationDate="2010-10-11T14:13:50.697" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4291" PostId="3894" Text="As I wrote above, even in FireFox which supports color profiles (yes, I tested it), the problem persists with pictures which do not contain color profiles (which is about 99% of the web)." CreationDate="2010-10-11T14:14:46.170" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4292" PostId="3889" Text="As I wrote above, my FireFox does support color profiles, but the problem still persists with pictures without color profiles (which is about 99% of the internet)." CreationDate="2010-10-11T14:15:44.233" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4293" PostId="2086" Text="Seconded. I bought this lens for an old film camera, but it rarely comes off my D90 now. It's not AF-S though, so you'll want to make sure it'll autofocus on your camera if that's important to you." CreationDate="2010-10-11T14:29:51.353" UserId="1604" />
  <row Id="4294" PostId="2651" Text="I've had good luck with face priority auto-focus in live view on my D90 for this. It consistently nailed focus for me at f/1.8. If your camera has a similar feature, give it a shot!" CreationDate="2010-10-11T15:08:15.410" UserId="1604" />
  <row Id="4295" PostId="1665" Text="Another vote for the Sigma 10-20mm lens. It's always in my bag for times when I'm looking for a decent landscape shot." CreationDate="2010-10-11T16:15:56.883" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="4296" PostId="612" Text="Likewise. Dad later upgraded to an OM-2 which I, ahem, &quot;borrowed&quot; when I went to school. My first digital camera was an Olympus C5050Z (which I still use) and the first SLR of my own was a Nikon D70." CreationDate="2010-10-11T16:21:16.187" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="4297" PostId="3877" Text="Good points!  I think the biggest thing I notice about my current body is that it is not the best in low-light.  Once I go to ISO 800 or higher, the pictures are way too noisy - which is why I got the Speedlite.  For my lenses, I definitely use the 28-135mm the most.  Would upgrading that be a bigger payoff than getting a new body?" CreationDate="2010-10-11T17:24:23.617" UserId="1397" />
  <row Id="4298" PostId="3877" Text="Oh most definitely. The 28-135 is an okay lens, and on a crop body it's kind of long, I would consider either the 24-105 F4 IS, which is a great all around lens (it doesn't have as much reach as the 28-135, but it's optics are far superior)." CreationDate="2010-10-11T18:25:16.013" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4299" PostId="3892" Score="1" Text="The hour before sunset is called the blue hour and gives you very rich dark blues in the sky. Using long exposures, you get a colorful mixture of city lights and natural light. The same is true for the hour before sunrise. City life just seems to be more buzzing in the evening, though." CreationDate="2010-10-11T18:30:11.550" UserId="531" />
  <row Id="4300" PostId="3871" Text="Consider also the case where a company gets acquired by a bigger, &quot;badder&quot; company. In that case, any reputation built up by the original is rendered meaningless. That said, I trust ezprints.com without reservation so do as I say, not as I do." CreationDate="2010-10-11T19:06:49.010" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="4301" PostId="3881" Text="The camera body makes an enormous difference.  I only know about Canon and Nikon but in both their lines the more you spend on a body, the higher ISO you can comfortably shoot without getting a grainy image.  And as another poster wrote, the higher ISO you can shoot, the shorter amount of exposure needed, and the cleaner the handheld shot." CreationDate="2010-10-11T19:12:27.050" UserId="309" />
  <row Id="4302" PostId="3881" Text="But for this guy, better lenses is what he needs first, not a body. He's using the slow kit lens and I know for myself that it struggles in comparison to faster lenses. Lenses should come before ISO. ISO should be the last resort to getting light in the camera (not that higher ISO is not warranted). I never said a body won't make a difference." CreationDate="2010-10-11T21:00:26.370" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4303" PostId="3876" Text="edited so I could upvote this answer." CreationDate="2010-10-11T21:45:22.317" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4304" PostId="1338" Text="Not very configurable, but enough for me; see http://www.gisteq.com/resources/WinHelp/Hardware%20Setting.html#hardware for details. Export to GPX/NMEA is possible: http://www.gisteq.com/resources/WinHelp/software%20function-8.html . There's no Lightroom integration that I can find." CreationDate="2010-10-11T22:22:49.607" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="4305" PostId="3871" Text="Hmm, of the list above, only Google has (in my understanding) a good reputation w.r.t. customer respect; the others range from bad (MS, Apple) to godawful (MPAA, RIAA). I'm not familiar with EA Games." CreationDate="2010-10-11T23:03:34.770" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4306" PostId="3898" Text="I don't have an answer unfortunately, but you seem new here. Welcome!" CreationDate="2010-10-11T23:07:18.680" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4307" PostId="3899" Text="Thanks, I actually took the pic by placing the camera on a wall. Even then its not as sharp I expected it to be" CreationDate="2010-10-11T23:08:06.603" UserId="1599" />
  <row Id="4308" PostId="3894" Text="While the default is to only color-managed tagged images, Firefox can be configured to use color management for all images. " CreationDate="2010-10-12T02:45:49.160" UserId="291" />
  <row Id="4310" PostId="3871" Text="@Reid: The first few releases of Google Chrome browser had a EULA that basically gave them perpetual, worldwide, royaltee free right to use ANY content you transfer with their browser at any time. It was a bit of a big fiasco back in the day, and a few lawyers got on board and basically forced Google to change the EULA. A quick search for &quot;Google Chrome EULA&quot; will bring up a bunch of blogs about it. They have also had numerous content misuse scandals, massive and permanent data loss without any kind of support for thousands of users, etc. etc. Every big company has their demons." CreationDate="2010-10-12T05:57:47.600" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4311" PostId="3907" Score="1" Text="+1! Couldn't agree more. " CreationDate="2010-10-12T05:58:39.440" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4312" PostId="3888" Score="3" Text="I though higher ISO means *more* grain, not less ..." CreationDate="2010-10-12T06:53:28.117" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="4313" PostId="3887" Text="@Rob : More than 90% of the questions regarding photography are subjective :)" CreationDate="2010-10-12T07:00:00.287" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4314" PostId="3888" Text="@Guillaume - Whoops! Thanks for pointing that out! :-)" CreationDate="2010-10-12T07:00:12.673" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="4315" PostId="3905" Text="There's nothing you can do in *levels* that you can't do with *curves*, however there's plenty you can do in *curves* that's not possible in *levels*. Also setting the output levels to 7 results in &quot;7&quot; being the darkest colour in the image. Reducing contrast. Coupled with setting the input levels to &quot;8&quot; that is clipping the backs and throwing away data (and thus detail!) so I'm not sure what you're trying to acheive. " CreationDate="2010-10-12T09:34:28.233" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4316" PostId="3888" Text="Actually for the same exposure **higher** ISO means **lower** noise in images. This is a frequently misunderstood concept. Lowering the ISO only results in less noise if you get more light down the lens to compensate. " CreationDate="2010-10-12T09:57:38.520" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4317" PostId="3901" Text="+1 for the shared misery. Mine has been gathering dust since I got the 5D!" CreationDate="2010-10-12T10:15:43.970" UserId="930" />
  <row Id="4318" PostId="3906" Score="5" Text="The best thing you can ever do if you're serious is shoot RAW." CreationDate="2010-10-12T10:48:35.207" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4319" PostId="3898" Score="1" Text="Can you post a few images? It will make it much easier for people here to diagnose the problem! " CreationDate="2010-10-12T11:10:03.667" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4320" PostId="3887" Score="2" Text="I'm guessing that the downvotes are because the question is about future expectations, which can not be known.  This has not yet been deemed off-topic, but some similar types of questions have been: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/should-we-allow-questions-about-unreleased-cameras" CreationDate="2010-10-12T12:02:55.187" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4322" PostId="2074" Text="BTW, RawTherapee has become Open Source some time ago. So it's going to be free in any sense. I liked it too, when I tried it, but didn't want to get stuck with proprietary software as it was one day." CreationDate="2010-10-12T13:37:12.157" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4323" PostId="3906" Text="Nick is absolutely right - you want to be shooting RAW. See my answer below." CreationDate="2010-10-12T15:16:39.703" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4324" PostId="3915" Score="1" Text="This is true for the US, but there are no guarantees that other parts of the world would care about US holidays." CreationDate="2010-10-12T16:22:13.587" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4325" PostId="3915" Text="Understood - but mentioning Thanksgiving led me to believe the question was north american centric." CreationDate="2010-10-12T16:27:57.550" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="4326" PostId="3915" Text="As mentioned in the question, I was looking for US (and Singapore) prices." CreationDate="2010-10-12T16:59:41.167" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4327" PostId="3906" Score="1" Text="Raw isn't something that's always possible. For shooting sports (action shots), raw isn't the best format." CreationDate="2010-10-12T17:46:19.057" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="4328" PostId="3920" Score="1" Text="+1: also worth mentioning that heads and legs have varying supported weight specifications." CreationDate="2010-10-12T18:30:48.020" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4329" PostId="3919" Text="What is your camera and your heaviest lens?" CreationDate="2010-10-12T18:49:13.387" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4330" PostId="3905" Text="@matt...that's not what I was told by an instructor who beta tests for Adobe. His take is that levels and curves operate off of different engines. I know PS has an integrated &quot;levels&quot; option in the curves palette now, but the integrated levels, as I understand, is not the same as &quot;Levels&quot; by itself. As for output adjustments, I'm giving an option to safeguard the low end so that detail is not lost. Input at 8 does not go far enough to clip the blacks (so far as the eye can tell), and is in place to increase contrast. " CreationDate="2010-10-12T19:52:53.997" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4331" PostId="3911" Text="@Matt...and I agree, for hard core toning local adjustments are where its at. Darkroom basics." CreationDate="2010-10-12T19:54:12.543" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4332" PostId="3907" Text="So according to your rule, &quot;take home the maximum amount of information&quot; should I go for more shots (JPG) or more info per shot (RAW -- less shots per second)? Or should I make my own decision based on other factors like workflow, backup, storage, how I like to shoot (away from my computer), the fact that I like to be able to see previews of files in Mac OS X Finder?" CreationDate="2010-10-12T20:24:28.420" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4333" PostId="3918" Text="This makes me want to shoot in-camera B/W (with RAW for later monkeying around). Haven't done it but it sounds like a great exercise." CreationDate="2010-10-12T20:26:01.200" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4334" PostId="3906" Text="Then you might need a better sports oriented camera that can handle it, like a 7D with a fast CF card." CreationDate="2010-10-12T20:27:40.500" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4335" PostId="3907" Text="+1 for the nice style of your answer." CreationDate="2010-10-12T21:12:52.230" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="4336" PostId="3870" Text="+1, I've got &quot;Light Science and Magic&quot; and it's an extremely good resource." CreationDate="2010-10-12T22:01:49.023" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="4337" PostId="3919" Score="1" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! We need more detail about your equipment and intended uses, though, in order to properly answer your question." CreationDate="2010-10-12T23:08:35.127" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4338" PostId="3922" Text="Nice. How is the GH1780QR locking mechanism? Screw? Do you have to unscrew to make small adjustements?" CreationDate="2010-10-12T23:52:45.257" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4339" PostId="3924" Text="I have a D90 with 18-200 mm vr II and 50mm f1.8.. I tried with both, no matter under exposed, over exposed, rightly exposed, with diff WB settings, I can never get those vibrant colors I get in phtoshop." CreationDate="2010-10-13T00:07:02.553" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="4340" PostId="3924" Text="I was hoping answer in terms of Saturation, hue, etc or something else on the camera." CreationDate="2010-10-13T00:07:48.510" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="4341" PostId="3926" Text="I have a D90 with 18-200 mm vr II and 50mm f1.8. May be I should try adding a polarizer." CreationDate="2010-10-13T00:09:54.700" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="4342" PostId="3922" Text="It is a ball head, so there is a knob that you can loosen, then you have full freedom. There is a nice vertical flip notch in case you want to change from horizontal to vertical with a lens that does not have a tripod ring. There is a simple quick-flip screw that you loosen (I just use my thumb to flip it up or down) to enable panning. It is a very nice head, with degree notches around the panning ring, and three bubble levels in the head itself for gravity leveling. It is also a quick-release head, but it is &quot;safe&quot;, and prevents the camera from just falling out like some manfrotto heads." CreationDate="2010-10-13T00:39:10.000" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4343" PostId="3923" Score="1" Text="What brand and model of camera?" CreationDate="2010-10-13T00:45:38.677" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4344" PostId="3924" Text="Well yeah, you won't be able to match photoshop's post-processing capabilities. " CreationDate="2010-10-13T02:25:01.413" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4345" PostId="3927" Score="1" Text="For digital, a UV filter does nothing for the image. Most, if not all DSLR sensors have a uv filter on them." CreationDate="2010-10-13T02:26:19.603" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4346" PostId="3928" Text="I don't know that you can. My prelim searches turn up 3rd party tools to accomplish this for you." CreationDate="2010-10-13T02:28:26.197" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4347" PostId="3906" Text="@abhi, why isn't RAW a good format for sports?  Is it because the burst length is shorter?" CreationDate="2010-10-13T03:44:16.497" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4348" PostId="3932" Text="Thanks a lot! exactly the kind of info i was looking for...+1!" CreationDate="2010-10-13T04:27:49.490" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="4349" PostId="3927" Text="To say it does nothing is false. At the very least a UV filter will provide a safeguard for your glass. $40-80 for filter compared to $100's-$1,000's for new glass, big difference. Second, anything you can do to straighten light waves entering a lens is beneficial. Think engines and airflow; even if I have a gorgeous bored and polished straight six with 300 horses that eats asphalt like a starving tiger, I'm going to slap a cold-air filter and straight-line exhaust on that Son-of-a-Gun to maximize output. Same applies with a lens. SUPER-CHARGE!" CreationDate="2010-10-13T05:55:42.287" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4350" PostId="3924" Text="I know you want 'better' colours out of the camera but in my experience I have found the best results in the RAW conversion stage. But then of course you must photograph in RAW, your choice but you will find it is widely recommended. A great advantage is that you can go back to your earlier RAW photos and change your mind. This has happened to me many times." CreationDate="2010-10-13T07:17:59.100" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4351" PostId="3887" Text="One of the Canon forums would be a better place to ask this question. You will get many more replies and a spirited debate as a bonus." CreationDate="2010-10-13T07:24:48.320" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4352" PostId="3929" Score="1" Text="It would be useful to include details of what sort of thing you're going to be using it for." CreationDate="2010-10-13T07:46:39.517" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4353" PostId="3927" Score="2" Text="Breaking/scratching the front element of a lens doesn't write it off so it's more like $80 for a good UV filter or $80 to replace the front element *if* it gets scratched. You are right that it doesn't do nothing, if you're lucky you'll get a tiny bit of extra UV filtering along with extra flare and vignetting on super wideangle lenses. In general you want **the least possible amount of glass in front of the lens** (why the cheapo 50/1.8 outperforms the 50/1.2L at f/5.6 - less glass to introduce blur). Lenses have nothing to do with engines!" CreationDate="2010-10-13T08:08:44.653" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4354" PostId="3926" Text="The 50 f/1.8 will probably perform better, it's a simpler optical design, and less likely to introduce chromatic aberration, stopping down will improve performance." CreationDate="2010-10-13T08:12:01.207" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4355" PostId="3715" Text="Note that quite often, when buying off of Amazon, they are actually just fronting for Adorama or B&amp;H anyway, so most of the time, your really just buying from those two. Excellent online stores, both!" CreationDate="2010-10-13T08:41:19.573" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4356" PostId="3887" Text="Actually this question is no different than a few others on photo.se (for example, &quot;should I upgrade from EOSxx to EOSx or wait) etc. But I get it. Perception about the question matters :)" CreationDate="2010-10-13T08:50:36.743" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4357" PostId="3938" Score="3" Text="That's true only if the flash is your main light source. As soon as you have significant ambiant light and long exposure, stabilisation is a good idea." CreationDate="2010-10-13T10:52:48.303" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="4358" PostId="3938" Score="2" Text="It would also depend on your focal length. If I were using a stabilised 100mm, and an exposure of only 1/60th, I'd want to keep stabilisation on" CreationDate="2010-10-13T11:54:11.633" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4359" PostId="3919" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2505/what-should-i-pay-attention-to-when-choosing-a-tripod" CreationDate="2010-10-13T11:58:34.420" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4361" PostId="3935" Text="@Matt Very true, although you still obviously don't get any benefit when tripod mounted." CreationDate="2010-10-13T12:48:00.353" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4362" PostId="3935" Score="1" Text="That applies to older first generation IS systems, the new ones are clever enough to realise they are on a tripod and not do anything. The manual should tell you whether you need to turn IS off when using a tripod. " CreationDate="2010-10-13T12:48:35.937" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4363" PostId="3919" Text="Currently I am having a SIGMA 300 mm lens. The trouble with my tripod is that it cannot hold the lens in evrey position as it can do with my 17mm - 85 mm CANON lens. &#xA;&#xA;I own a REBEL XT. My budget for a tripod is 100 dollars." CreationDate="2010-10-13T12:50:02.953" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="4364" PostId="3937" Text="I did visit their website after you posted this. That utility is very confusing. As I understand, I need to buy three separate parts for one tripod. Is that right?" CreationDate="2010-10-13T12:55:07.360" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="4365" PostId="3934" Text="That's the first time I am hearing this." CreationDate="2010-10-13T12:55:49.543" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="4366" PostId="3944" Text="Agreed. I have a number of Nikon and Sigma lenses ranging in age from 5 to 20 years old and they work great with my D80." CreationDate="2010-10-13T15:33:28.983" UserId="1624" />
  <row Id="4367" PostId="3927" Score="1" Text="@Matt-Where are you getting a front element to pro glass replaced for $80? Lenses may have nothing to do with engines, but analogies have everything to do with explanations. Sorry to step on your toes big guy." CreationDate="2010-10-13T16:00:28.603" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4368" PostId="3935" Text="I've never used IS, so I'm just curious...feedback loop? Sounds like an audio issue. What do you mean by feedback loop? What does it do?" CreationDate="2010-10-13T16:31:32.277" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4369" PostId="3916" Text="Sorry, I had forgotten to mention that I am talking about optical zoom; I have disabled digital zoom. I’ve added that to the question. (Plus, I said it’s blurry at all zoom levels, not just the most.)" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:18:06.190" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="4370" PostId="3914" Text="That’s a good point. I’ve got a tripod, but obviously that’s not very convenient for things like capturing the transient wildlife in the backyard. I will however give it a shot to see if it helps." CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:19:37.997" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="4371" PostId="3912" Text="Your second paragraph sounds like it might be the case. I am fairly confident that the camera used to perform better. It has taken a fall or two (usually in the case and/or onto carpet), but because it still worked, I figured it was fine. Could that cause the problem you describe?" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:21:53.377" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="4372" PostId="3900" Text="That’s a good idea. The camera does indeed have various focus modes and IS, so I’ll try them out. (The thing is however, that I’m almost certain that the same settings used to give more clear shots.)" CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:23:15.187" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="4373" PostId="3935" Text="@Rob same principle as audio - the IS movement generates vibration, which the IS then cancels, then the IS tries to cancel that movement etc..." CreationDate="2010-10-13T17:28:22.103" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4374" PostId="3937" Text="That doesn't seem right to me. I have a 0555CXPRO4 base with a 808RC4 head and that will support my wildlife gear without any problems (just for reference it's a Nikon D200 with a Sigma 170-500 zoom lens). &#xA;&#xA;I put your details into the utility and my setup would be alright for your gear too. However, at UK prices, it would come to well over the $100 you've quoted." CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:06:49.707" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="4375" PostId="3935" Text="Ahh. Got it thanks." CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:28:13.837" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4376" PostId="3919" Score="3" Text="@abhi: Can you explain further what you mean &quot;cannot hold the lens in every position&quot;? What positions do you need it to be held in? Also, are you mounting the lens with a tripod ring to the tripod, or the camera to the tripod? Most of the time, you need to mount telephoto lenses directly, rather than the camera, to get proper mobility and stability. As for cost...$100 really isn't going to get you much of anything...thats not even enough for a half-way decent head, let alone a decent 'pod. :\" CreationDate="2010-10-13T18:39:02.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4377" PostId="3906" Text="@seanmc, The time taken to write to the card is much more if you use RAW format." CreationDate="2010-10-13T19:02:03.850" UserId="664" />
  <row Id="4378" PostId="3929" Text="@Rowland Shaw: thanks for the suggestion, see updated post..." CreationDate="2010-10-13T19:19:08.400" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="4379" PostId="3932" Text="If you like the answer you should accept it." CreationDate="2010-10-13T19:32:45.533" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="4380" PostId="3905" Text="It's possible the calculations are done differently between the tools so you might get rounding errors but in principal levels is a superset of the levels functionality." CreationDate="2010-10-13T19:39:04.810" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4381" PostId="3905" Text="As for your use of the levels tool... setting input to 8 may not clip any detail if the darkest pixel is value 8, in which case the histogram is stretched making the darkest pixels are value 0 as they should be. But then you adjust the output levels **mapping the 0s back to 7s**, getting to pretty much where you started from! The only extra apparent detail is from the noise you added." CreationDate="2010-10-13T19:42:26.853" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4383" PostId="3932" Text="@Queso: I know, I am a veteran Stack Exchange user, but was waiting to see for more answers... :)" CreationDate="2010-10-13T21:52:03.663" UserId="880" />
  <row Id="4384" PostId="3923" Text="I have a D90 ,18-200 mm vr II ,50mm f1.8 from Nikon." CreationDate="2010-10-13T23:55:02.087" UserId="567" />
  <row Id="4385" PostId="3935" Text="For telephoto lenses, there are usually two modes for IS. One for both vertical and horizontal correction, and the other for just vertical (for use on a tripod while panning)." CreationDate="2010-10-14T03:17:43.637" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4386" PostId="3954" Score="1" Text="This is a partial duplicate of this question, where you should be able to find most of your answers: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-do-all-those-cryptic-number-and-letter-codes-in-a-lens-name-mean/508#508" CreationDate="2010-10-14T05:30:45.467" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4387" PostId="3954" Text="One thing I don't get is why the 5D is full frame yet the 1D isn't..." CreationDate="2010-10-14T05:46:26.153" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4388" PostId="3954" Score="1" Text="@Nick: The 1D is a body built for top-rate action photography, and the smaller APS-H sensor supports a higher burst rate (lower MP, faster write speed.) The 1Ds, on the other hand, does sport a full-frame sensor, but offers half the burst rate of the 1D, with the same image processing hardware. Tradeoffs, tradeoffs..." CreationDate="2010-10-14T06:17:51.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4389" PostId="3949" Text="Thanks. Saw it. Only problem is the need for a d700 ontop of that :) " CreationDate="2010-10-14T06:22:07.540" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="4390" PostId="3953" Text="It seems like you've generally answered your own question. Amongst the cameras you have listed, prices range anywhere from a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars...you can pretty much take your pick for whatever your price range is." CreationDate="2010-10-14T06:27:05.270" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4391" PostId="3955" Score="3" Text="Excellent answer! Thanks for all the amazing info :)" CreationDate="2010-10-14T06:41:12.963" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="4392" PostId="363" Text="Yes. Higher MegaPixels are necessary only if you plan to print out rather large, billboard sized photographs. For basic viewing on computer screen and sharing on social networks (or even printing out an A4 sized image), all you need is maz of 5MP" CreationDate="2010-10-14T06:51:19.183" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="4393" PostId="3954" Text="@nick it also makes sense when you consider that when the 1D was released there were no full frame DSLRs. It was the best. Then when Canon improved it and made it full frame they called it the 1Ds, but then they decided to continue making APS-H Cameras it made sense to go to the 1D mkII" CreationDate="2010-10-14T07:23:42.673" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4394" PostId="3954" Text="hmm I just used &quot;Canon&quot; and &quot;made sense&quot; in the same sentence..." CreationDate="2010-10-14T07:47:29.283" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4395" PostId="1643" Score="1" Text="CCTV lenses are often very fast as they're designed to work in low light environments (i.e.) at night. The lack of really fast Micro 4/3 lenses is why people are turning to CCTV optics." CreationDate="2010-10-14T07:55:12.683" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4396" PostId="3685" Score="1" Text="I like the idea of this device, but it becomes complicated when you want to shoot with a flash as well." CreationDate="2010-10-14T09:01:01.763" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="4397" PostId="3955" Score="1" Text="Dude, you just answered most of the questions I was about to ask, and many I hadn't even thought of yet. If I could give you my 101 rep, I would. Thanks a lot!" CreationDate="2010-10-14T09:51:02.437" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4398" PostId="3960" Score="4" Text="Can you provide more information about your needs? Why are you upgrading? What is your budget? What sort of photography do you do?" CreationDate="2010-10-14T10:41:36.643" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="4399" PostId="3953" Text="What sort of budget were you looking at?" CreationDate="2010-10-14T11:26:12.293" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4400" PostId="3960" Text="I'm upgrading as I've had my current camera for a good few years now, I'm a student so my budget has got to be quite reasonable and photography wise, I'm currently doing a course so we're doing all kinds, but I tend to look towards portrait and music photography. " CreationDate="2010-10-14T11:49:38.470" UserId="1009" />
  <row Id="4401" PostId="3932" Text="Cool, I am with ya" CreationDate="2010-10-14T12:45:35.860" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="4402" PostId="2653" Text="@Evan : But the now &quot;entry-level&quot; &quot;video dslr&quot; from canon, the T2I (550D) does have external input, apart from a stereo internal mic. Guess it will make its way into a nikon entry level model soon." CreationDate="2010-10-14T13:34:17.377" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4404" PostId="3927" Text="Adobe RGB gives you more potential for right colors, but only when you process the colors properly. If you don't, it will reduce the gamus to sRGB anyway, or worse show AdobeRGB image as if it was shot in sRGB, resulting in even weaker color tones." CreationDate="2010-10-14T14:04:24.920" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="4405" PostId="3969" Score="2" Text="One answer appears in the first hit when you Google &quot;4P + IR lens&quot;: &quot;4P = four plastic lenses; 1G = one glass lens; IR = infrared filter&quot;" CreationDate="2010-10-14T14:51:53.310" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4406" PostId="3947" Text="There is also a slider in Lightroom if that is your program of choice. Under the develop tab, scroll down on the list of adjustments." CreationDate="2010-10-14T14:59:01.340" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4407" PostId="3953" Text="What sort of project are you doing?  If you're doing some kind of photon counting (rather than photography), you may want to go to a different kind of camera altogether, one that doesn't have a Bayer filter in front of the detector but captures all photons in the visible light range and can be filtered in front of the detector." CreationDate="2010-10-14T15:09:46.247" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4408" PostId="3947" Text="Yes, definitely, I use LR extensively. He was mentioning PS though." CreationDate="2010-10-14T17:28:39.663" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4409" PostId="3969" Text="@whuber: Thanks, so why exactly do we need these four plastic lenses or glass lenses? Is there some reference that explains the construction and understanding of lenses." CreationDate="2010-10-14T17:56:03.107" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="4410" PostId="3970" Text="I may be wrong, but my thinking was that the IR part was a filter attached behind the lens and it was to remove the IR component of light entering the camera. " CreationDate="2010-10-14T17:58:54.710" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="4411" PostId="3969" Score="1" Text="@Kevin: You might start at the Wikipedia article and then explore whatever interests you in the links from it.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camera_lens" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:00:02.700" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4412" PostId="3968" Text="@Matt : I am new to DSLRs (but have used Canon S3 IS in manual mode extensively). Hence, I'm not even sure how much of serious video I will shoot. So your comment on 500D being good enough makes sense. Also, very true regarding the pricing of various models by firms :)" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:34:56.617" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4413" PostId="3966" Text="@Daniel : Probably not, in the short-mid term. I will have my hands full with the stills themselves !" CreationDate="2010-10-14T18:36:07.380" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4414" PostId="3970" Text="Tamron explanation at http://www.tamron.co.jp/en/data/cctv_ir/ir_series2.html suggest that at least for Tamron it works the way I described." CreationDate="2010-10-14T19:04:22.450" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="4415" PostId="3975" Text="hmm sad. I will look into that Plugin. That might have to work. :/" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:01:20.707" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4416" PostId="3792" Text="This is pretty much exactly what I asked for, so I accepted it." CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:02:01.707" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4417" PostId="3799" Text="Thank you for this answer, it is quite inexpensive." CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:02:39.427" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4418" PostId="3279" Text="@Jukka still waiting for you to answer..." CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:03:11.517" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4419" PostId="3279" Score="1" Text="Oh, just accept Matt's answer below. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:09:00.267" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4420" PostId="3977" Text="Perfect! I'm a web guy with a photography client who needs an easy way to do this. I know photoshop in regards to designing web pages pretty well --- but not so much for photo-editing tricks like this...I knew there was a better way than I was thinking. Thanks for the well thought out answer!" CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:09:53.887" UserId="1634" />
  <row Id="4421" PostId="3975" Text="That's best answer I can give, but keep us posted, I would be interested in associating my old Flickr photos too. Thx." CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:09:59.663" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4422" PostId="3976" Text="Thanks, HDR doesn't quite do what I'm looking for (well, it doesn't do what my photographer client is looking for...according to him)." CreationDate="2010-10-14T21:10:57.300" UserId="1634" />
  <row Id="4423" PostId="3967" Text="@scottc, you seem new here. Welcome!" CreationDate="2010-10-14T22:41:32.260" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4424" PostId="3970" Text="I think you're both correct: you need to remove the IR filter from the sensor in order to shoot IR, and having an IR-corrected lens helps with focusing." CreationDate="2010-10-14T22:44:02.917" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4425" PostId="3976" Text="I can see where HDR might not be what your client is looking for. It takes A LOT of work to make HDR not look like HDR. Good luck with Sebastien's work flow, it's a good one:)" CreationDate="2010-10-14T22:57:37.933" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="4426" PostId="3976" Text="Selectively masking each exposure is a crude way of achieving the result most HDR software will give you, when you blend multiple exposures like this you *are* doing HDR. It doesn't have to involve over-saturated colours and strong halos, which is probably what has been putting off your client!" CreationDate="2010-10-14T23:02:46.920" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4427" PostId="3979" Score="1" Text="I do have a Canon SD870IS, the replacement for the SD800IS, and it is indeed wide, with a 28-105mm (equiv.) lens. I can confirm that CHDK works well with that camera. I use it to expand some of the features I need for underwater photography, but the intervalometer capability is definitely there. Power socket, no, I don't think I see one, so you will be limited to the internal battery. &#xA;" CreationDate="2010-10-14T23:24:42.517" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4428" PostId="3279" Text="@Jukka LOL! If you insist! :)" CreationDate="2010-10-14T23:41:25.207" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4429" PostId="3979" Score="1" Text="@sebastien.b: If it's anything like my older Canon P&amp;Ss, you can do something like take off the battery door and insert some sort of power adapter &quot;brick&quot;.  I've never tried it, but that's my understanding of how you can power these cameras.  Looking at the camera specs on the Canon USA &quot;Museum&quot; (http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/dcc/data/2005-2006/2006_ps_a420.html?lang=us&amp;categ=srs&amp;page=psa&amp;p=2) tells you which AC adapter is required for a particular camera." CreationDate="2010-10-15T00:13:47.090" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="4430" PostId="3960" Score="6" Text="Increasingly we are seeing questions which are product or manufacturer related. Should we be dealing with such questions on this site? I have two points to make: 1) Forums, like DPReview, with their lively debates, are a better place to answer current questions about product selections and upgrades. 2) These questions have no enduring value. Within 6 months they are irrelevant and become just pollution in the system. I think the test here is to ask whether the question has enduring value that contributes to the body of photographic knowledge. This question does not have enduring value." CreationDate="2010-10-15T06:58:34.343" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4431" PostId="3990" Text="Thanks Rowland. So, does that mean that a full frame is more suited to landscapes and such?  Would a 7D, for example, be particularly poor for shooting landscapes, or would an amateur not notice the difference?" CreationDate="2010-10-15T08:12:15.883" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4432" PostId="3990" Score="3" Text="There are good wide-angle EF-s lenses for example the excellent 10-22, there are just more options for wide-angles on a full frame. The 7D won't be poor for landscapes by any stretch of the imagination, but the 5D mkII will be better. " CreationDate="2010-10-15T09:06:35.667" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4433" PostId="3971" Score="1" Text="You may want to check this question too - http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2384/how-to-import-photos-and-metadata-from-flickr-to-lightroom" CreationDate="2010-10-15T09:52:20.180" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="4434" PostId="3990" Score="1" Text="@Winston I've recently upgraded to a 5D Mk 2, so I have a little bias on this, but as I don't need to faster performance of the AF on the 7D (I don't generally shoot sports, nor am I trying to photograph people that don't want to be), then the 5D was a better investment (even though rumours are picking up about a replacement)." CreationDate="2010-10-15T11:08:09.483" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4435" PostId="3965" Text="I think this question is more appropriate on the Canon and Nikon forums of DPReview. On those forums you will generate a spirited debate involving a great many people. Generating so much input will be more helpful to you than the anemic response you will get on this site." CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:14:00.243" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4436" PostId="3992" Score="2" Text="Matt, I like your answer, thoughtful and complete. Given the obvious advantages of the FF sensor I nevertheless find that I get outstanding quality on my APS-C DSLR. To me, at least, it seems the improvements are merely incremental. I suspect that some important advantages accrue not from the sensor but from the fact that FF bodies have in general more advanced specifications." CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:31:35.803" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4437" PostId="3965" Score="3" Text="@labnut : I am not looking for a spirited debate, am looking for some quality insights, which I think this forum delivers at a very high S/N ratio :)" CreationDate="2010-10-15T12:48:02.763" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4438" PostId="3992" Score="5" Text="**@labnut** The area where you really notice the difference is with fast wide lenses, there's simply nothing available for APS-C that can match the 24 f/1.4L for speed and field of view. The ability to get nice blurred backgrounds when shooting wide is pretty much exclusive to full frame. But yeah you can still get amazing results in 90% of cases with a crop. Look at how long Nikon went without FF in their lineup. I disagree that the difference can be accounted by FF cameras being higher spec, the 7D beats the 5DmkII on pretty much everything but sensor size and MP and the 50/60D are close. " CreationDate="2010-10-15T13:48:58.900" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4439" PostId="3967" Text="@Reid Priedhorsky: Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-10-15T14:35:57.490" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="4441" PostId="3971" Text="@Andre Thanks for the link, I had forgotten about that question(but have apparently read and voted up answers in it.)" CreationDate="2010-10-15T14:50:31.387" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4442" PostId="1956" Text="Definitely get a focus confirm adapter if you can swing it.  They have an electronic connection to the camera that will show you when the picture is focused in the viewfinder.  Some nice primes to look for in M42 are the Vivitar 28mm/2.8, Takumar 50mm/1.4, and the Vivitar 70-210mm/3.5 (Kiron).  Honestly some of these lenses are cheap enough (~15-20 bucks) that you can do some experimenting and see what you like." CreationDate="2010-10-15T15:07:25.260" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="4443" PostId="3988" Text="I'm a bit confused now after reading this, whuber mentions that 4P means a 4 element plastic lens. The datasheet of this particular camera states that it is fixed focus, I don't know about manual focus adjustment and the electronic contacts of AF as said in your answer. What conclusions should I come to?" CreationDate="2010-10-15T15:33:41.580" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="4444" PostId="3971" Text="This is exactly the dilemma I faced a few months back. I needed to sort out quite a few things with my (relatively small) image library, though, so embarked on a mass project to start again when my Flickr account needed renewing. Took ages. Bah!" CreationDate="2010-10-15T15:34:54.370" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="4447" PostId="3988" Text="The naming is very confusing. The same letter has several meanings. Maybe if you show the full name, someone will give you a better answer." CreationDate="2010-10-15T16:48:52.800" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="4450" PostId="3992" Score="1" Text="Some other points, perhaps harder to quantify: increased micro-contrast, or fine tonal transitions. The smaller you go, the more you seem to lose.  Then, all else equal, low light performance simply due to more photons, dynamic range and color depth." CreationDate="2010-10-15T17:01:13.253" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4452" PostId="3969" Text="It might be useful to add a link to the data-sheet you mention" CreationDate="2010-10-15T18:48:31.127" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4453" PostId="3992" Score="1" Text="The viewfinder on the 7D is a 1:1/100% viewfinder, however since that is an APS-C sensor, it is smaller than the 5D's. The 7D's finder has some pretty advanced active display stuff since it uses an LCD to display information across the whole surface of the viewfinder." CreationDate="2010-10-15T18:51:35.717" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4454" PostId="3965" Text="Good comment, I like it :)" CreationDate="2010-10-15T19:36:50.007" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4455" PostId="3989" Score="3" Text="In fact, I would argue that the ability to change aperture between HDR bracketing shots means that the person who designed that feature doesn't understand photography." CreationDate="2010-10-15T22:56:07.997" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4456" PostId="3986" Text="Related, perhaps a duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses" CreationDate="2010-10-15T23:21:15.950" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4457" PostId="3955" Text="@Winston: Glad to be of service. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-16T00:17:39.420" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4458" PostId="3969" Text="@Rowland Shaw: http://www.trulydisplays.com/ccm/specs/5.0M%20CM5326-B500BA-E%20Spec.pdf Look at page4 in the lens section" CreationDate="2010-10-16T09:07:43.773" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="4459" PostId="4002" Text="I've clarified the question: zoomed into 100% and cropped, only showing the center part of the image. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-10-16T12:58:44.327" UserId="139" />
  <row Id="4460" PostId="4002" Text="Ah, the images are actually much bigger (1307px wide) than they appear on the site (640px), so they're not quite full images or 100% crops!" CreationDate="2010-10-16T13:50:48.463" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4461" PostId="3995" Text="In my experience if you try mixing formats then it can be annoying, or at least I found it so when I used an APS-C body for a while as a backup." CreationDate="2010-10-16T13:56:03.330" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="4462" PostId="3888" Text="ISO is a measure of sensor gain. The higher it is, the more amplification you're giving to the various types of sensor noise. For one body, one EV, you will see less noise for a lower ISO. This is easy to see for yourself and the physics is straight forward." CreationDate="2010-10-16T14:03:40.390" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="4463" PostId="4000" Text="Thanks for these great resources. I've learned a huge amount about auto-focus systems from these, especially the focus-chart PDF." CreationDate="2010-10-16T14:10:24.987" UserId="139" />
  <row Id="4464" PostId="3970" Text="@che Kevin's link actually says 4Plastic + IR; so I'd say you're spot on." CreationDate="2010-10-16T14:14:30.470" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4465" PostId="3997" Text="Thanks for the detailed explanation regarding diffractions. Have been reading for around a month now, but never came across this aspect." CreationDate="2010-10-16T15:03:19.310" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4467" PostId="3997" Text="I doubt that I will be spending anything more than 300-400$ max on any lens, so the L series is out of my reach. In parallel, I started looking at the Pentax k-x and related ecosystem. I like the price (for 100$ less than 550D, I get a 500D equiv body with IS + 2 lenses !). However the ecosystem and community is not available here in India/Asia, so it is a big risk which I'm debating, whether to take or not :) So 500D v/s Pentax k-x it is, as of now. Will decide by next couple of days and close this." CreationDate="2010-10-16T15:09:11.843" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4470" PostId="3989" Score="3" Text="@mmr - your argument is based upon the (false) presumption that the only reason for bracketing is producing HDR pics." CreationDate="2010-10-16T18:36:24.640" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4471" PostId="3989" Score="2" Text="Exactly, the bracketing features are not only for HDR. For example, see the photo of the fly in the Wikipedia entry: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bracketing" CreationDate="2010-10-16T19:08:19.380" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4472" PostId="4001" Score="2" Text="Ahh, I thought that Hugin could only create panroamas, but not. That tutorial is great! And now I've found out that you can even create HDR panoramas. I've sub-estimated Hugin. Great tool!" CreationDate="2010-10-16T20:00:20.257" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4473" PostId="1404" Text="Reid's comment is great! Since I'm using CHDK for long exposure, I don't have the noise reduction option. Now I know how to remove it!" CreationDate="2010-10-16T20:17:01.590" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4474" PostId="4011" Score="6" Text="Can't speak for the D40 but almost all DSLRs support tethered shooting with a USB cable using a variety of software, including LightRoom" CreationDate="2010-10-16T20:36:13.373" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4475" PostId="1995" Text="Agreed. Another reason is to correct file system errors that can creep in over time." CreationDate="2010-10-16T20:52:37.480" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4476" PostId="4011" Text="yes, D40 would allow this.. but not exactly wireless ;)" CreationDate="2010-10-16T21:05:46.027" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="4477" PostId="4006" Text="I know that you specifically mention learning digital photography, but I want to make sure you realize you don't have to go digital! I have some friends who shoot only film, and take some wonderful shots. Some use modern technology to post process, and many integrate the features of both to produce wonderful images. One of my favorite analog photographers is Caleb Charland, whose work inspired me to get back into photography, can be seen here: http://www.calebcharland.com/" CreationDate="2010-10-16T21:14:08.673" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4478" PostId="4004" Text="Wouldn't those photos have a different noise amount? And worse, the HDR photo would have all those noises together!" CreationDate="2010-10-17T01:49:59.113" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4479" PostId="4015" Text="Eye-Fi is a very good option but not all cameras support it." CreationDate="2010-10-17T05:27:04.520" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="4480" PostId="4015" Text="According to their webpage Nikon D40 is supported. " CreationDate="2010-10-17T07:31:21.017" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="4481" PostId="4004" Text="Well, it does depend on the model of camera you use. And NR algorithms are getting better these days - Lightroom 3 for example is very good. " CreationDate="2010-10-17T07:56:19.727" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="4482" PostId="4021" Text="Thank you! I knew the word &quot;equiv&quot; in their description meant something quite specific, and very misleading." CreationDate="2010-10-17T08:48:13.630" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4483" PostId="4011" Score="1" Text="Thanks. Although not wireless, tt's still a good tip for me because I didn't know it could be tethered that way." CreationDate="2010-10-17T11:15:21.017" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="4484" PostId="4015" Text="Great tip! I suppose it's possible to get it to do automatic sync with a folder on my machine to get some poor man tethering with e.g. Picasa? " CreationDate="2010-10-17T11:17:30.440" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="4485" PostId="4006" Text="@BBischof Oh, of course you can still do film photography. But I feel that given the sorts of things I want to do, digital will be more convenient. I don't have ready access to a darkroom, film is expensive and increasingly hard to find, and you're a bit more limited in the number of photos you can conveniently take in one go. Thank you for the link, though, those are some wonderful photos." CreationDate="2010-10-17T14:58:51.303" UserId="1649" />
  <row Id="4486" PostId="4020" Text="Hi Itai, the http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq says to please refrain from adding signatures from your answers. All answers are signed with your name, and identicon so it's unnecessary." CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:11:10.413" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4487" PostId="4023" Text="The black rapid does prevent some swinging, but I think you would want something to secure it to your body, as it will still swing freely. I've never used it hiking, but when I'm walking around, I typically place my hand on the body to prevent it from moving." CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:15:13.637" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4488" PostId="4023" Text="Yup, that's my feeling too, that's why I suggested the Cotton Carrier first. My Luma Loop is shipping as we speak, I'll update my answer once I try it." CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:24:30.803" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4489" PostId="4028" Score="2" Text="So much depends on the hiking conditions. In my case (mountain hiking) it is important to protect the camera from snags, abrasion and bumps. In this case the the Skytop leather case is the best solution (for me). In more open, less demanding hiking conditions the Luma Loop/Black Rapid type solution wins because of the greater ease of access." CreationDate="2010-10-17T16:35:08.067" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4491" PostId="3989" Text="@Winston, @Tomas-- read that article again.  That's focus stacking, which is not the same thing as changing the aperture.  His camera does not offer a focus bracket mode, just an aperture changing mode.  Again, aperture bracketing sounds to me like a marketing gimmick rather than a useful feature.  I'd love to see an example of aperture bracketing that's useful." CreationDate="2010-10-17T19:20:44.963" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4492" PostId="4031" Text="excellent, thanks - I knew the body would fit - i was just worried about the lens." CreationDate="2010-10-17T20:01:38.683" UserId="1544" />
  <row Id="4493" PostId="2737" Text="When upscaling photos I have found that doing this on the basis of 300 ppi works well. Possibly a careful and critical comparison with 600 ppi will show a difference but I suspect the difference is small enough not to matter to me." CreationDate="2010-10-17T20:36:49.410" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4494" PostId="3989" Score="1" Text="It's useful in the same sense as exposure bracketing is useful - you can take 3 shots at different apertures and keep whichever one comes out best." CreationDate="2010-10-17T21:09:59.860" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4495" PostId="4034" Text="No editing tools at all so far. :-(" CreationDate="2010-10-17T22:35:00.857" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4496" PostId="4033" Text="I love paint.net as a general purpose bitmap graphics editor, but it doesn't seem really suited to regular work with photos." CreationDate="2010-10-17T22:36:38.237" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4497" PostId="2737" Text="@labnut: I've actually done some tests, which will be the basis of the next Emperical Study. For certain types of photos, where fine detail is prevalent, 600ppi (or 720ppi on Epsons) does indeed matter. The moth used in the Extreme Upscaling study has some very fine detail in its eyes. Printing @ 300ppi vs. 600ppi shows a marked difference in the clarity of those details. On the flip side, if your photograph does not have such details, 300ppi is generally plenty." CreationDate="2010-10-17T23:02:36.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4498" PostId="4033" Text="Sorry, Paint.NET is an ok image editing program, but not really tool to do any kind of photography work with. It doesn't offer any kind of organizing/tagging, and outside of some very basic editing tools, does not really provide anything to effectively fine-tune and fix photographs (outside of its curves tool.)" CreationDate="2010-10-17T23:10:19.917" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4499" PostId="2088" Score="1" Text="With CHDK, you can shoot up to 10 photos, with 4 EV as the max jump, and 1/3 as the minimum. That's one of the reasons I love CHDK!" CreationDate="2010-10-17T23:25:47.133" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4500" PostId="4023" Text="Thanks for the suggestions!  I feel like I would hit my hand against the camera as I hiked if I used a sling, which would be especially bad if it was the hand that holds the trekking pole (I only use one pole, but I switch sides from time to time).  The Cotton Carrier does look like what I envisioned, but I wonder if it would interfere with my pack?" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:12:33.913" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4501" PostId="4037" Score="2" Text="You've missed one of the best. GIMP." CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:16:59.690" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4502" PostId="4027" Text="The harness that you linked to looks like it might work, and it is so simple and the price is low enough that it isn't a big deal if I end up hating it.  How does it handle when you are hiking/moving around a lot?" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:18:28.333" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4503" PostId="4025" Text="The spider holster is pretty cool, but I don't think it would be right for what I am looking for." CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:20:44.930" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4504" PostId="4028" Score="3" Text="Those are nice holsters, but a bit too pricy for me.  I might need something else to protect my expensive camera holster, which protects my expensive camera :)" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:22:23.617" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4505" PostId="4029" Score="1" Text="Do you have a link to Pentax's claims that a Linear Polarizer is OK?" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:38:26.110" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="4506" PostId="4023" Score="1" Text="@pkaeding: this video shows people using it with backpacks. http://www.cottoncarrier.com/intro3.html" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:51:40.880" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4507" PostId="4027" Score="2" Text="@Dlambert: I don't think the Cotton Carrier is loose. While I haven't tried it, this video shows somebody doing backflips on a trampoline with the system :) http://www.cottoncarrier.com/intro3.html" CreationDate="2010-10-18T00:52:35.917" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4508" PostId="4029" Text="Sorry, I can't find the link, but it was second hand from someone talking to support.  While looking for it, I found another claim that they said it &quot;may&quot; affect AF.  Anyways, many others, including myself, have used linear polarizers without problems." CreationDate="2010-10-18T01:44:00.643" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4509" PostId="4039" Text="This question I asked may be helpful, but I'm not sure if it's exactly what you want: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1805/how-can-i-take-a-picture-of-the-moon-as-part-of-a-night-landscape" CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:04:13.000" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4510" PostId="4039" Text="Mmmm... In that case you had the luck of not having the most lightened object (moon) close to a very dark zone with details. So, simply editing 2 frames would solve the problem, IMHO." CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:15:40.510" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4511" PostId="4039" Text="Well, what do your current results look like?  Is the glow you're talking about from the high brightness images having spillover (ie, pixels that would be black or dim in faster exposures are accumulating more light from nearby light sources in the slower ones, throwing off the HDR processing?)" CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:19:59.790" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4512" PostId="3763" Text="I ended up buying the Sigma, and have already got some great Figure Skating shots with it.  I was at a Photography and Digital Imaging show (Henry's) this weekend.  I tried the Nikon, then went back to try it again the next day, and the AF on the lens died.  I took that as Karma that I should keep the Sigma lens." CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:40:57.887" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4513" PostId="4014" Text="I'd strongly suggest not wasting $400 on a point and shoot that is going to be rather unlike a DSLR in terms of shooting. $400 would be better spent on a lens or  DSLR body." CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:41:30.317" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4514" PostId="4027" Text="@pkaeding -It hangs a little lower than I'd prefer (just a bit above the beltline), but I didn't notice my camera moving around much (30D + 50mm or 55-250).  I was doing some light climbing - enough that I think I would have noticed it swinging around.  I haven't played too much with adjusting the straps - it might be possible to raise it up a bit.  For the price, I think it's a pretty good option." CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:44:00.173" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4515" PostId="4027" Score="2" Text="@sebastien - Sorry - I sort of meant once you take the camera out of the secured position.  I unclipped my camera yesterday, for example, to shoot a panorama on the top of a rock outcrop, and it occurred to me halfway through shooting that my camera was now loose on the top of a cliff a couple hundred feet up in the air.  It looks like the Cotton Carrier has a tether that may stay attached even when the camera is out of the harness -- that would be a very good thing if it's easily unclipped for tripod use." CreationDate="2010-10-18T02:48:44.530" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4519" PostId="4029" Score="2" Text="I thought the problems with linear polarizers had to do with the meter, and whether it was beam splitting. From what I understand, beam-splitting meters also polarize the light, which would double-polarize if you used a linear polarizer, and give you incorrect meter readings." CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:03:08.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4521" PostId="4039" Text="...are accumulating more light from nearby light sources in the slower ones... That's what I mean. Look at the example below. http://goo.gl/dSmO" CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:11:53.780" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4522" PostId="4040" Text="&quot;High Dynamic Range images contain a floating-point dynamic range that is nearly infinite&quot; To be more precise, 4,294,967,296 is the quantity of colors that an HDR image could have. Awesome!" CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:18:42.063" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4523" PostId="4040" Score="1" Text="Well, were not really talking colors, were talking tones. The number of &quot;colors&quot; that are representable by any color model, for 8bit, 16bit, or 32bit float, is about the same. There are two major modes of thought, but science shows that humans can only really see about 2-3 million (by one school of thought) to about 10 million (by another school of thought). On the other hand, the human eye is far more sensitive to different tones. It is not infinitely sensitive, but we are able to differentiate a pretty fine degree of tonal differences. HDR expands tonal range much more than color. " CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:26:26.297" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4524" PostId="4040" Text="Ohh, now I see. I wasn't sure about &quot;colors&quot;. Thanks for the clarification..." CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:34:53.737" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4525" PostId="4040" Text="The tonal range of an 8-bit image is about 256 levels. The tonal range of a 12-bit RAW is about 4096, 14-bit RAW is 16385, 16-bit RAW is 65536 discreet tonal levels. In contrast, a 32bit float HDR image supports truly &quot;dynamic&quot; tonal range. Since there is one 32bit floating point number for each color component, you are not limited to representing color brightness with discreet integer values. The HDR tonal range extends from pitch black (0.0), through dim starlight (0.00001), indoor lighting (100), outdoor shade (1000-10000), outdoor sunlight (1000000), the sun (1000000000) and beyond." CreationDate="2010-10-18T03:38:42.210" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4526" PostId="4037" Score="3" Text="I debated mentioning The GIMP, but given the specific mention of noise reduction, I'd have to disagree about its being one of the best. The GIMP has basically nothing in the way of noise reduction beyond basic Gaussian blur -- it's even up to you to mask edges you don't want blurred before you do the blurring. As a general editing tool, it's a solid suggestion, but when looking specifically at/for noise reduction, it's relatively weak." CreationDate="2010-10-18T04:54:48.960" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="4527" PostId="4040" Score="2" Text="I think Exposure Fusion are simply trying to avoid any negative connotations of the word HDR. To say Exposure Fusion images aren't HDR, you have to also say 99.99% of the images people produce with Photomatix etc. aren't HDR either. " CreationDate="2010-10-18T07:11:59.367" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4529" PostId="4040" Text="Exposure Fusion is an entirely new way of merging images. Outside of the need for multiple exposures, the similarities stop there. HDR merges images into a 32bit floating point high dynamic range image, while exposure fusion selectively chooses tones from your image set and merges them into a normal 8bit image via a special algorithm. Photomatix supports both HDR and Exposure Fusion, but they are not the same thing...an enfused image is not HDR, its LDR." CreationDate="2010-10-18T07:49:36.500" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4530" PostId="4040" Text="You can read more about the specifics at this link: http://www.tawbaware.com/tufuse.htm. There is a link to the original paper on Exposure Fusion in there as well, which describes the theory and algorithm in depth." CreationDate="2010-10-18T07:58:36.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4531" PostId="4040" Score="1" Text="**@jrista** I totally agree that the &quot;enfused&quot; images are LDR not HDR, but so are 99.99% of the images called HDR (given that jpegs can't store genuine HDR images, neither can monitors display them). So since niether are actually HDR it makes no sense to distinguish between them. Both methods take the same input, and produce similar looking output - the fact that no intermediate floating point representation exists is irrelevant." CreationDate="2010-10-18T11:06:57.310" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4532" PostId="4045" Text="http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-metz-48-af-1-digital-nikon-fit-flashgun/p1023531 vs http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-nikon-sb-600-speedlight-flashgun/p13353 .. Metz is £54 cheaper." CreationDate="2010-10-18T12:17:24.317" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="4534" PostId="4011" Text="I checked this out and it seems to require some expensive software from Nikon? " CreationDate="2010-10-18T12:42:24.670" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="4535" PostId="4001" Text="+1 hugin is a great open source tool for sticking, panoramas, and even HDR." CreationDate="2010-10-18T13:39:31.180" UserId="1170" />
  <row Id="4536" PostId="4045" Text="Funny- at B and H the Metz is ten dollars more!" CreationDate="2010-10-18T14:14:40.810" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="4537" PostId="2737" Text="@jrista: What you have found is undoubtedly true for you just as what I have found is also indubitably true for me. That is because the two key parameters, acuity and viewing distance, are different for the two of us. What this demonstrates is the danger of generalising from our particular circumstances to a general rule. So I have made a quick calculation, using a comfortable viewing distance of 12&quot; and a visual acuity of one arcminute to get a result of 286ppi. Younger people have higher acuity while older people have lower acuity. One arcminute is believed to be the population average." CreationDate="2010-10-18T14:41:47.657" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4538" PostId="3978" Score="1" Text="Just a note that AFAIK no built-in time-lapse can span several months. You'll probably have to us CHDK because even with an intervalometer controller, you'll need a way to power it for  all those months." CreationDate="2010-10-18T14:56:30.180" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4539" PostId="2737" Text="@jrista: In the interests of fairness I must point out that there is some disagreement about the parameters. Reading tests with 4th grade children have shown average reading distance of 17&quot; while some authorities believe the average visual acuity is 0.5 arcminute. These numbers give a result of 404ppi." CreationDate="2010-10-18T15:01:07.457" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4540" PostId="2737" Text="@jrista: Steve Jobs also trespassed in this field when he made some contentious claims about the subject. Here is the discussion http://www.edibleapple.com/scientists-bicker-about-apples-retina-display-claims-but-who-the-hell-really-cares/" CreationDate="2010-10-18T15:22:18.763" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4541" PostId="3841" Text="I'm accepting this response, which has stood for over a week, as indicating that the answer to my question is &quot;no.&quot;  But if any reader has other information, please share it with us in a reply!" CreationDate="2010-10-18T15:28:50.440" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4542" PostId="4046" Text="That's a good suggestion; I will have to give it a shot!" CreationDate="2010-10-18T15:50:48.133" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4543" PostId="3841" Text="Sadly, it looks like that EOSInfo tool has not been updated since the 450D. It has the 500D listed, but highlighted in red and crossed out. :( I too would be interested in knowing if there is a good way of figuring out how many true shutter actuations there have been on any Canon body." CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:51:14.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4544" PostId="2737" Text="@labnut: Indeed, visual acuity is dependent on age. There is an ideal point during childhood where it is at its highest, after which it degrades. As you stated, though, one arcminute is the population average, and it is the correct value for the majority of adults. As I've done more tests, I've noticed my own visual acuity is actually better than I figured on, and I print most things from 8x10 and lower at 600ppi unless I know for a fact there isn't enough fine detail for it to matter. I've watched people over time as well, and noticed how frequently people move closer for a better view." CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:56:32.373" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4545" PostId="2737" Text="Despite all the theory and mathematics behind printing, there is a very simple fact about detail in a print that pretty much blows it all out of the water. If you hand someone a 300ppi print, they will think its wonderful and amazingly detailed. They will think the same thing if you hand them a 600ppi print instead. Show them a 600ppi print one day, and a 300ppi version the next, and they normally won't notice any differences (there are exceptions to that, but few). It is only when someone sees both prints side by side are they able to consciously notice the improvement of a 600ppi print. ;-)" CreationDate="2010-10-18T16:58:45.053" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4546" PostId="2737" Text="@labnut re Jobs &amp; iPhone: I have several co-workers who have the new iPhone 4. I must say, it really is the most amazing screen I have ever seen. I've spent quite a bit of time trying to see any individual pixels, and so far, I've failed. I would quite honestly die to have a 30&quot; computer screen with th this density. One thing I've learned, I think, is that visual acuity with emissive dots is a bit different (lower?) than with absorptive dots. I've closely scrutinized the iPhone and never seen a dot, however I can see dots when I closely scrutinize a print. Complex stuff, for sure. " CreationDate="2010-10-18T17:05:53.757" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4547" PostId="4040" Text="@Matt: I would dispute the fact that discussing the differences is irrelevant. In my experience, enfused images look a hell of a lot better than LDR images tone-maped from HDR images, even after hours of meticulous tweaking of tone curves or exposure settings. It is possible to create a superb image with exposure fusion with hardly any effort, while it takes a lot of careful effort to create a truly superb image with HDR &amp; tone mapping. In that respect, I think the process differences are very important, and very relevant." CreationDate="2010-10-18T17:13:52.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4548" PostId="4040" Score="1" Text="I guess another important point to make (Matt already made it, but to be clearer) is that the vast majority of &quot;HDR&quot; images are indeed NOT high dynamic range images...they are simply LDR images that have been tone-mapped *from* HDR images. That doesn't mitigate the benefits of using the alternative and simpler Exposure Fusion process to create improved LDR images, though. It just means that the final results of any process are all ultimately LDR images that can be viewed on the limited gamut's of computer screens and prints." CreationDate="2010-10-18T17:20:14.837" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4549" PostId="4051" Text="So it is a fanny-pack style bag?  That is an interesting idea.  How is it comfort-wise, when hiking?  Would a backpack or trekking pole interfere with it?  Also, do you know if there are any photos of people wearing it attached to their belts?  That would help me see how it would fit." CreationDate="2010-10-18T18:28:24.763" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4550" PostId="4052" Text="Nice, thanks! And for that price, I can't really afford not to try it!  BY the way, where did you get that image from?  The link to buy it just shows the case itself, but I would like to see more images of people wearing it." CreationDate="2010-10-18T20:51:58.557" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4551" PostId="4024" Text="If you can't turn it off - did you try reducing the LCD brightness to its lowest value?" CreationDate="2010-10-18T21:14:22.793" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="4552" PostId="4044" Text="Thanks Rowland!" CreationDate="2010-10-18T21:26:11.330" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="4553" PostId="4024" Text="Yes, that's what I do, and is the closesto thing to turn it off." CreationDate="2010-10-18T21:39:30.377" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4554" PostId="4043" Text="So, some things like lens flare or sensor bloom are just inevitable when you try to capture shadows without fill lights?" CreationDate="2010-10-18T21:56:20.007" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4555" PostId="4001" Text="I'm playing with the hugin_hdrmerge's khan algorithm. Does anybody know what that algorithm exactly does?" CreationDate="2010-10-18T22:02:48.873" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4556" PostId="4043" Text="It depends, bloom tends to be localised, as charge spilling over only affects pixels nearby, so as long as your shadows are not right next to the lightsource it can be managed. Flare is more problematic - it's always present in every image, but usually it is extremely dim compared to the light that makes up the image. However when you increase the incoming light far enough, in order to capture the shadows, it will inevitably become visible, and can affect the whole image, causing a lack of contrast." CreationDate="2010-10-18T22:15:28.207" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4557" PostId="4056" Text="That is interesting.  It looks like it attaches to a belt?  It looks kind of like the Lowepro, but a good deal more expensive." CreationDate="2010-10-18T22:54:30.687" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4558" PostId="4056" Text="I plan on getting one for my 50D + battery grip and mid sized lens. I can story my 270EX flash in the pocket I'd say since it's quite small." CreationDate="2010-10-19T00:03:34.027" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4559" PostId="4058" Text="Can you be more specific about what software you have?" CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:03:45.643" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4560" PostId="4052" Text="Actaully, I don't think this image is a Lowepro.  It seems to be a photo of a competing product from Tamrac, and the photo is lifted from http://www.backpacker.com/backpacking_cameras_photography_outdoors_wilderness_action/blogs/979  By any chance, are you working with Lowepro through your marketing company, genius.com?" CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:27:19.893" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4561" PostId="4058" Text="I'm guessing Photoshop, since it is tagged [photoshop]." CreationDate="2010-10-19T03:59:14.037" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4562" PostId="4060" Score="2" Text="You might get better advice about which Canon is suitable if you mention a little about what aspects of photography interest you the most." CreationDate="2010-10-19T07:30:03.213" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4563" PostId="4060" Score="1" Text="Or more importantly your budget, since the 7D is a clear winner vs. The 50/60D in almost all regards (flippy screen aside!) " CreationDate="2010-10-19T08:38:19.000" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4564" PostId="1830" Text="Upvote for a pretty complete answer." CreationDate="2010-10-19T08:42:24.767" UserId="1592" />
  <row Id="4565" PostId="4067" Score="1" Text="That's an... interesting design." CreationDate="2010-10-19T08:54:43.227" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4566" PostId="4060" Score="1" Text="Quite a wide variety of stuff really, I got the camera for work as I build websites and the cost of photography were making my sites very expensive. So exterior/interior shots like www.gwynfryncottages.com. I'd like to experiment with night time photography and landscapes + recently I've needed to do some clothing shots hence the tethered mode - anything you can think of really!" CreationDate="2010-10-19T09:49:18.963" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4567" PostId="4060" Score="1" Text="Budget wise the canons I named are within my price range, the 7D is a bit of a reach but do-able if it's worth it, which seems to be the case. What I really need is a good all rounder - the continuous auto focus would be a boon." CreationDate="2010-10-19T09:51:24.870" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4568" PostId="4063" Text="I'd looked at upgrading within Pentax but several things have bothered me over time, the price/availability of flashes being one and lenses another - the biggest pain being wanting to try a lens out in the store. There seems to be a lot more options with canon particularly older lenses custom firmware and wider support online (how to guides and the like). The tethering thing only came up recently but the software is terrible - the only way to get it working was to run it inside a Windows XP virtual machine." CreationDate="2010-10-19T10:01:29.340" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4569" PostId="4061" Text="Thank you for this, I had been thinking this might be the way to go, especially as I've never used a canon but wasn't sure if it was a good idea." CreationDate="2010-10-19T10:03:07.677" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4570" PostId="3957" Text="My brain hurts, even after understanding that." CreationDate="2010-10-19T10:46:48.267" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4571" PostId="4060" Score="1" Text="@toomanyairmiles Generally on StackExchange sites it's accepted (and even encouraged) to edit questions and answers, so you may want to add the above information in the question so it doesn't get lost amongst any other comments." CreationDate="2010-10-19T11:02:15.530" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="4572" PostId="4057" Text="Yeah... I just got my new Canon 5D Mark II from ebay purchase... paid on Thursday, received (in Australia, from a US store) on monday.  Pretty damn happy with that!" CreationDate="2010-10-19T11:04:39.083" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="4573" PostId="4011" Text="@grm You can use the Nikon software, or if you already use/have Adobe Lr3 then this has tethered shooting support built right into it." CreationDate="2010-10-19T11:05:23.547" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="4574" PostId="4065" Score="1" Text="Is it possible for you to install new software? If so, you're almost certainly going to benefit from moving to a more recent program such as http://www.gimp.org.  I know this doesn't directly help, but it's just something to consider." CreationDate="2010-10-19T12:10:42.407" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4575" PostId="4069" Text="I'll check that out later perhaps." CreationDate="2010-10-19T12:17:27.037" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="4576" PostId="3957" Text="And I haven't yet mentioned the 1DmkII N and Canon 20D a! " CreationDate="2010-10-19T12:21:28.293" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4577" PostId="4065" Text="@chills42: Thank You, chills42, for this suggestion. I will install it, but...could You, please, direct me as to where in &quot;gimp&quot; I could find that kind of tool?" CreationDate="2010-10-19T13:13:53.493" UserId="1667" />
  <row Id="4578" PostId="4051" Text="Sorry, I should have linked to the manufacturer site: http://products.lowepro.com/product/Topload-Zoom-AW,2053,8.htm - It is a holdster which you normall wear using a should-strap but it comes with harness as well and can be secured by passing your belt through. Unlike a fanny-pack you would wear it on the side." CreationDate="2010-10-19T13:15:46.500" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4580" PostId="4075" Text="**@Itai** I wasn't aware the standards said anything about dynamic range. The latest version of he standard lets camera manufacturers supply their own definition of what is a well exposed image, which is why ISO sensitivities not only differ between camera manufacturers, but also between models from the same manufacturer! It seems a bit pointless having a standard at all... " CreationDate="2010-10-19T14:32:19.623" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4581" PostId="4077" Score="1" Text="You probably ought to write a little about what you want to use the camera for (landscapes, portraits, nights out etc) and what hope to get out of it. Without more info, you'll only get subjective answers." CreationDate="2010-10-19T14:35:04.990" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4582" PostId="4075" Score="2" Text="@Matt - Yes, the clause specifying what is a proper exposure is exactly for this, allowing a metered 18% brightness value to no longer be reproduced at 18% brightness which indicates a change in dynamic-range, although the standard does not explicitly say so." CreationDate="2010-10-19T14:56:23.733" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4583" PostId="4059" Text="thanks bro, nice way of suggesting and helping " CreationDate="2010-10-19T15:07:51.613" UserId="338" />
  <row Id="4584" PostId="4037" Text="Thanks. Bibble looks really good. No LX5-specific support yet, but they're on it..." CreationDate="2010-10-19T15:08:51.410" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4585" PostId="4080" Score="1" Text="On a Canon, ISO 100 is the true base ISO, not an expanded ISO, so you get true benefit by using ISO 100 over ISO 200. Some Canons are &quot;expandable&quot; to ISO 50, some down to ISO 25, and others have an ISO 80, all of which are &quot;artificial&quot; rather than a true analog ISO." CreationDate="2010-10-19T15:47:39.787" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4586" PostId="4063" Score="1" Text="Pentax's P-TTL pales in comparison to Canon and Nikons.  If you require a good auto-flash system, that is a good reason to change.  If you go the wireless trigger strobist manual route, brand doesn't matter.  With old lenses, Canon can adapt more, Pentax has more features (metering, AF-trap, AF-confirm, IS with anything you can manage to stick in front of the camera).  There are countless resources for both, just check http://www.mflenses.org and http://www.manualfocus.org.   Pentax removed tethering on their newer cameras and I doubt they will bring it back." CreationDate="2010-10-19T15:55:57.973" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4587" PostId="4060" Text="One problem is certainly your lens. These super-zooms not only have poor image quality but very dim apertures. Focusing is always done at the widest aperture, even if you shoot at a smaller one. Try on a different lens, preferable a DA* or Limited series and you will see a difference in low-light." CreationDate="2010-10-19T16:09:08.573" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4588" PostId="3447" Text="I think it is very difficult to categorically state that one particular lens from one manufacturer is far better than anything else in its class. Canon has some superb 135mm portrait lenses, including a soft-focus lens that does a fantastic job naturally smoothing out skin without giving it that hideous look you get when its smoothed out with Photoshop. Even though it is not f/1.8 (which would have an extremely thin DOF), it is still an excellent lens." CreationDate="2010-10-19T16:13:57.453" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4589" PostId="3447" Text="You state that the Sony 85/1.4 is the best of its focal length available. I've red several reviews of the Zeiss 85/1.4, which I believe is the same thing as the Sony. It is a superb lens, however in comparisons with Canon's 85/1.2, I found the Canon to be superior in several ways. One of the things that annoyed me about the Zeiss 85/1.4 was its focus plane shift as you stopped down...terribly annoying problem. It also appeared that flare was FAR better controlled with the Canon 85...it looked pretty bad in reviews of the Zeiss 85. Categorically, there are pros and cons for both brands." CreationDate="2010-10-19T16:16:53.287" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4590" PostId="4082" Score="2" Text="I'd be interested to see an example. Maybe a ND filter was involved, to darken the background." CreationDate="2010-10-19T16:17:29.873" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4591" PostId="4052" Text="I was a little confused by this, too, but I believe that the chest harness really is just the harness -- not the bag.  That also diminishes the appeal of that great price just a bit, because you'll presumably end up buying both the harness and a TLZ-type case.  Still, I'm intrigued by the idea of just hanging a TLZ-type case from the straps on my pack (as shown in the backpacker.com article) to see if that does the trick." CreationDate="2010-10-19T16:47:52.233" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="4592" PostId="4082" Text="An example will help us determine how he did it, i.e. multiple flashes, a flash very close to the subject, etc." CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:04:07.483" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4593" PostId="4082" Text="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2008/05/joe-mcnally-desert-shoot.html" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:08:30.023" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4594" PostId="4080" Text="I'm not sure, there was much talk of the native ISO of the 30D being about 160, and that using ISO100 would cost you a little in DR. Graphs were produced, it was serious stuff ;) however, I doubt you'd notice the difference in practice. Higher &quot;fake&quot; ISOs are genuinely problematic, since when using them there is the possibility of overexposing, compared to the alternative of underexposing and &quot;pushing&quot; the exposure in post." CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:21:51.140" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4595" PostId="3955" Score="1" Text="The pro range (single digit) also tend to have a button for each setting rather than having to hunt through menus. They also have multiple copies of the same button for different holding positions. SO they look more complicated but can be more intuitive to use." CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:22:47.280" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="4596" PostId="4075" Score="2" Text="I think the reason the ISO is not stored in the EXIF is because the &quot;expanded&quot; ISO 12800 is not implemented as an analogue amplification but is really ISO6400 underexposed by a stop with the raw data &quot;pushed&quot; to maintain the correct exposure." CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:31:30.447" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4597" PostId="4049" Text="At current prices you could get *three* 50 1.8s for the price of the 1.4, more than making up for the lack of durability!" CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:38:41.637" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4598" PostId="4049" Text="@Matt: True, it is really, really cheap. However, the better build of the 1.4 should last for many years at least, where as the 1.8 could break at any time leaving you in the lurch. I wouldn't say the cost *more* than makes up for the lack of durability, but it does somewhat make up for it." CreationDate="2010-10-19T17:45:21.180" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4599" PostId="4083" Text="my whole idea revolves around this &quot;using a high shutter speed you let in the same amount of flash but much less ambient light&quot;. i was just thinking if by somehow i can tell camera's sensor dont collect light while opening and closing shutter and set the sync speed and shutter the same (120 of sec) with ISO 100. As flash light is more strong then ambient ones so it will bounce back more quickly so will get the least amount of ambient light around the subject. Result will not be hundred percent black but it should overpower ambient light to some extent.     " CreationDate="2010-10-19T19:28:56.350" UserId="338" />
  <row Id="4600" PostId="1337" Text="How configurable is the device? I.e. can you configure the refresh rate? How hard is it to export a GPX/NMEA track from it? Is there any integration with Lightroom?" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:23:14.367" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4601" PostId="4088" Text="Woo! Thanks for asking on my behalf!  You win the +50 bonus" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:16:54.600" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="4602" PostId="2971" Text="@Nick, that's true but if the OP is concerned enough to shoot a gray card, it's probably worthwhile to still do that for reference in post." CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:30:09.793" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4603" PostId="4010" Text="accepted for the extra info on viewfinder coverage/magnification, thanks" CreationDate="2010-10-20T01:20:19.097" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="4604" PostId="4093" Text="What do you need to do with them once selected? Do you want to completely isolate them, or do you just want to move them around in the same picture? If its the latter, Photoshop CS5 has some new features that might support you, and wouldn't require you do perfectly extract them from the background." CreationDate="2010-10-20T01:59:20.110" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4606" PostId="3433" Text="To be fair, @jrista, no self respecting photographer would want to use a 120mp ASP-H sensor :-P" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:52:31.160" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4607" PostId="4073" Score="1" Text="At least you didn't go Nikon... **runs and hides** :-P" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:58:20.707" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4608" PostId="3433" Text="@Nick: Perhaps not APS-H, but full-frame or larger for sure. There have also been plenty of rumors about Canon wanting to expand into the medium format market. If they could produce a higher density, high readout speed sensor in a 56x44mm size (645 format), I would go for it. Leaf recently released the Aptus-II, an 80mp medium format sensor. I would buy a 120mp medium format camera from Canon in a heart beat, and if they can make a 120mp APS-H, it shouldn't be difficult to do it with a larger sensor. That was more my point, rather than the APS-H sensor itself being a keeper." CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:16:04.930" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4609" PostId="4094" Text="You also risk highlight clipping with these fake low ISOs." CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:35:24.997" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="4610" PostId="4075" Score="3" Text="@Matt got a reference for that? I agree that image quality does significantly suffer. I think these arguments very often undervalue the loss of color detail, which can be quite large in these cases." CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:38:36.067" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="4611" PostId="4050" Score="1" Text="Interesting, I didn't know about that problem. I'll be more careful with my 1.4 from now on." CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:41:49.893" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="4612" PostId="4055" Text="Thanks sebastien. This was educational and very useful for me as I'm in the process of buying a new machine. " CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:36:37.153" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="4613" PostId="1059" Text="Just a sidenote: It's not that hard to do manual focus and when you get used to it, I think you will prefer it over the automatic one. Not really what you ask for, but I just wanted to mention it. " CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:41:04.023" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="4614" PostId="4093" Text="I want to completely isolate them, not move them around in the same picture. Also, I am working with Photoshop CS4 so I won't be able to use any tools available in the newest edition." CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:12:02.940" UserId="1677" />
  <row Id="4615" PostId="3433" Text="120mp on a small sensor (read: small enough for most photographers) screams &quot;NOISE&quot; to me. Do I want phone camera sensor quality? No thanks!" CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:45:30.080" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4616" PostId="4100" Text="sorry - I should have mentioned that both feather and Anti-aliased options were set to zero / unticked, so it's not that :(. However, have up-voted for the second paragraph, of which I was NOT aware!" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:48:30.907" UserId="1682" />
  <row Id="4618" PostId="4098" Text="Yes I doubt the sports photogs were using any high speed trickery! It's probably just an artifact of using a long lens and the background being in shadow. If it's indoor sports then it's possible the flash is only lighting up the foreground and overpowering the ambient." CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:06:06.527" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4619" PostId="4083" Text="In principal you can tell a sensor not so start collecting light until the shutter is fully open, this is how cameras with mixed physical/electronic shutters work. However the 20D doesn't work like this so your ambient conquering options are rather limited." CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:20:15.400" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4620" PostId="4100" Text="Ok in that case it sounds like a bug. If you save the selection to an alpha channel do you get any pixels which aren't pure black/white? You might be able to tell by looking at the histogram. I'll see if I can reproduce the problem myself. " CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:44:08.923" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4621" PostId="4090" Text="In my case, the lowest ISO available with the original firmware is 80. When I change it to a lower one with CHDK loaded, the photos are just the same as if they have been taken with ISO 80. Don't know why!" CreationDate="2010-10-20T17:08:42.217" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4622" PostId="4075" Score="3" Text="@Paul I can't find the original source, but basically if you look at the raw values at the highest ISO, they are all even numbers, a sure sign that the digital figures have simply been doubled. There's a discussion on this topic here: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=282393" CreationDate="2010-10-20T17:52:33.777" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4623" PostId="2645" Score="1" Text="**@Karel** Can you expand on your comment about diffraction, perhaps as an answer? Why would the 7D differ in this respect to any other camera body - isn't all the glass in the lens?" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:25:12.033" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4625" PostId="4094" Text="Yep, essentially fake ISO settings overexpose (at the base ISO) and use a tone curve to bring the image down to the correct exposure, clipping highlights.  Generally you don't really use IQ other than that, since there is more precision in the higher bits anyway (hence the movement to ETTR).  If anything, the shadows may have less noise due to allowing more light in, unless their processing is really bad." CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:35:51.317" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4626" PostId="4085" Text="Useful information about autofocus. I had assumed it would be standard on an SLR." CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:54:58.750" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="4628" PostId="2971" Score="2" Text="When you shoot RAW you are not solving the white balance problem, you are merely postponing it. Your post processing software might be better at at finding an acceptable white balance than the camera software or you might trust your own judgment to find the right setting. Either way, having a reference is a powerful aid. I would guess that you are using a gray card because the lighting conditions are tricky. If that is the case, shooting in RAW and using a gray card reference is the way to go." CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:17:52.383" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4629" PostId="4104" Text="Can you post pictures that demonstrate what you mean?" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:27:24.997" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4630" PostId="4088" Text="Thanks very much mate!" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:52:43.183" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4631" PostId="4104" Text="Welcome Heather! Can you post a detailed step-by-step list of what you did, what behavior you expected, and what the actual behavior is?" CreationDate="2010-10-20T23:52:54.243" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4632" PostId="4029" Text="Yes, I've heard figures of up to +/- 2 stops incorrect metering, but had not noticed any issues.  I will carry out a non-reflective wall test soon, but I still want at least one.  AF will only be affected if the lenses in the AF system are polarization sensitive (birefringent), which can include plastic lenses under stress." CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:00:45.497" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4633" PostId="4107" Text="I would avoid the blinds, as even wide ones will still cast a shadow at the edges. Blinds tend to have a curvature as well, and with their smoother, more reflective surfaces, that could also cause problems. Like Chills stated, a white sheet will be far more effective." CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:33:34.320" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4634" PostId="4117" Text="Thanks Abhinav... Its very nice camera , but sadly it is out of my budget.. costs around 15,000 in india ($340 approx)" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:15:19.600" UserId="1690" />
  <row Id="4635" PostId="4110" Text="Though a spare might be useful, DSLR's still have Auto mode which essentially make them giant point and shoots with ubër image quality. When I let someone have a go of mine I usually just switch it to Auto unless they have some knowledge of cameras." CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:18:38.190" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4636" PostId="2276" Score="1" Text="I've got the 18-135 on my T2i and I'm happy. The IS is quite good too." CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:36:26.170" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="4637" PostId="4118" Score="6" Text="+1, these photos are a great way to demonstrate this issue." CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:39:09.483" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4638" PostId="4116" Text="I think your camera must do something like take a few photos then merge them together to reduce noise. So the cost would be time." CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:40:57.253" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4640" PostId="4119" Score="3" Text="To add to this, if you have time and the software, you can get much superior results by doing noise reduction yourself on RAW files. Not only can you tweak settings, you can mask the NR layer differently on sections where you want to keep more detail. Here's an example of the amount of improvement you can get: http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/1226753-post1.html" CreationDate="2010-10-21T05:37:55.100" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4641" PostId="4121" Text="Why does the viewfinder need to be covered?" CreationDate="2010-10-21T07:34:28.737" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4642" PostId="4121" Score="2" Text="Believe it or not light can come in through the viewfinder, bounce round the pentaprism and land on the sensor! The amount of light involved is very small, in regular shooting you wouldn't see it, but if you are doing a long exposure with the lens cap on it can become a problem. Some cameras have a viewfinder shutter (or a bit of rubber attached to the strap) to help with this." CreationDate="2010-10-21T07:47:27.117" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4643" PostId="4106" Text="Can you describe the exact steps you used? I tried to" CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:36:16.167" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4644" PostId="4106" Text="Can you describe the exact steps you used, along with software versions etc. I had a go in CS4 using the lasso tool and paintbrush but was unable to reproduce the problem. Also what does the selection look like as an alpha channel? I'm trying to determine whether the problem is with the selection tool or fill tool..." CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:40:11.283" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4646" PostId="2364" Text="i own a nikon 50mm 1.4 prime...and it's definitely not bad for the field of view as people talk about it...50 mm is extremely practical field of view for the usual shoot even for a D90." CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:31:19.617" UserId="1706" />
  <row Id="4647" PostId="4120" Score="2" Text="DP Review also has a great comparison section - http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sidebyside.asp" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:43:00.640" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4648" PostId="4115" Text="@seanmc you just gave me an idea for something to try out." CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:20:37.663" UserId="630" />
  <row Id="4649" PostId="4135" Text="*the Canon 16-35 f/2.8L would be better than your kit lens, but I'd personally go for the 24 f/1.4L even though it's not as wide.* - why is this? Is it a better lens, or just because it's more accessible? I'd be renting either way, so the cost difference might not be huge." CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:52:03.033" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4650" PostId="4135" Score="1" Text="You can't directly compare them but the 24 would be better for you purposes as it has a much bigger max aperture which means it will let in *4 times as much light*! Lack of light is going to be your biggest problem. " CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:56:32.760" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4651" PostId="4135" Score="1" Text="@Matt Great coverage of a lot of issues.  Your answers are always worth reading." CreationDate="2010-10-21T15:00:11.923" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4652" PostId="479" Text="I've been using my camera more, and I find that previewing the histogram, and/or also auto-leveling using Paint.Net helps quite a lot in working around the imperfectness of the LCD. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-21T15:29:51.507" UserId="175" />
  <row Id="4653" PostId="4135" Text="Great writeup. Good tips overall. However when it comes to ISO, I wouldn't say &quot;as high as possible&quot;. With an f/1.4 or f/1.2 lens, you should be able to get away with ISO 800. ISO 1600 on the 450D is atrocious, and you get a LOT of noise that **will** degrade night shots (I have a 450D, and plenty of experience with this.) My opinion on this would differ if Winston had a 500D or 550D, which have better sensors with better SNR. The 450D just has really bad ISO 1600 noise, though." CreationDate="2010-10-21T16:58:25.057" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4654" PostId="4135" Text="When the ammount of light you can let in is fixed you **do** want the ISO *as high as possible*, (without overexposing the image). ISO1600 will look better than ISO800 underexposed by a stop, as correcting the exposure in post will increase both the shot noise and read noise. Obviously use ISO800 if you can increase the exposure time/aperture to compensate, but dropping the ISO and underexposing the image will **not** decrease noise. See the following admittedly extreme example of where ISO1600 can look better than ISO100: http://www.mattgrum.com/ISOcomparison/ISO_100_vs_ISO_1600.jpg" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:18:44.857" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4655" PostId="4121" Score="2" Text="You should cover the viewfinder during long exposures, regardless of enabling Long Exposure Noise Reduction." CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:22:47.237" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4656" PostId="4121" Text="A very good point" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:41:07.733" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4657" PostId="4135" Score="1" Text="If you make the assumption that you need to brighten the resulting image during post-processing, then yes, ISO800 might end up looking noisier than ISO1600. But thats making the assumption that you need to increase the exposure of the image during post-processing. I'm able to get some great shots of the milky way with a 50mm f/1.8 at ISO 800 that don't require brightening, and given that the auroras are brighter than stars, I would imagine ISO 800 to be great at f/1.4. The auroras don't move fast enough to need a super fast shutter speed and a higher ISO (they change over a period of minutes.)" CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:12:17.553" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4659" PostId="4080" Text="I do know that Nikon, until very recently, had a base ISO of around 160 or 180, which made their ISO 200 the &quot;best performing&quot; from an SNR perspective. I do know that older digital cameras used to use ISO 200 as the base (and often the minimum), however for at least the last several years, Canon has used ISO 100 as their base (in actuality it comes out a little higher simply due to physics, but generally speaking.) I think Nikon's more recent releases use a true ISO 100 base, rather than something closer to ISO 200. Many medium formats use ISO 80 as their true base." CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:39:20.407" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4660" PostId="4080" Text="Agreed about higher &quot;fake&quot; ISO's. They are quite problematic, and really don't buy you much since the sensor isn't actually more sensitive. I really wish sensor makers would put more effort into reducing the true base ISO from 100 to 50, rather than artificially expanding to 50k and 100k, as there really isn't any true benefit over what you could do better yourself during post-processing. " CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:40:51.373" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4661" PostId="4135" Score="1" Text="I'm not saying &quot;use the highest ISO your camera can muster&quot;, I'm saying: &quot;use the highest ISO you can for the *exposure* you've chosen&quot;. Otherwise, *you will have to brighten in post, which will raise noise more than upping the ISO would have done*. If you get the exposure you want at ISO800 or ISO400 then that's fine - you're minimising noise for that exposure. The idea that high ISO = more noise is so ingrained it's difficult for people to accept they can get less noise by rising the ISO!" CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:52:45.523" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4662" PostId="4106" Text="I've added a brief description and example to my answer, let me know if you need more. This was done with the lasso tool, but the same thing happens with any kind of selection, but the angles in the selection above show the problem best. " CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:00:21.890" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4663" PostId="3956" Text="Ahh, now it's coming back to me.  I had gotten the 35-105 lens for my film Rebel prior to the original Digital Rebel.  I confirmed the 35-105 lens works with the original Digital Rebel but doesn't with the T2i.  " CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:14:48.760" UserId="662" />
  <row Id="4664" PostId="4129" Text="Thanks - Now also seen this question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4130/reputable-rental-suppliers-in-the-uk which may help others reading this" CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:17:12.173" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4665" PostId="3956" Text="Thats interesting. I would have expected it to work with the T2i if it worked with the original Digital Rebel. Have you tried what Matt said, and cleaned the electrical contacts on the lens mount?" CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:23:50.910" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4666" PostId="4122" Text="As whuber mentions, lights flicker at twice the mains frequency - once on the positive swing, and once on the negative swing. Therefore, you can get away with a shutter speed of 1/100 for 50Hz mains frequency." CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:30:58.597" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4667" PostId="4144" Score="1" Text="Actually that's not 100% accurate. There are cases where this is not true. For example if a building you take a picture of displaying a copyrighted work of art, you aren't allowed to photograph it for comercial use (the lightshow at the Eifle Tower is an example of this)." CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:34:45.337" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="4668" PostId="4135" Score="2" Text="Good idea to browse Flickr and examine the EXIF data on others' shots!" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:35:31.823" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4669" PostId="4141" Score="1" Text="To see what the shutter sees, make yourself a stroboscope by cutting a cardboard circle from a cereal box, about 6&quot; diameter.  Cut a small radial slot near the edge of the disk, put a spindle through the center, and arrange to spin the disk while looking through the slot.  First time I looked at a fluorescent light through this was a real eye-opener!" CreationDate="2010-10-21T22:25:20.160" UserId="704" />
  <row Id="4670" PostId="4144" Text="There's a big distinction between &quot;taking a photo&quot; and &quot;selling a photo&quot;. The question concerned the resale of said photos." CreationDate="2010-10-21T22:41:30.130" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="4671" PostId="4122" Text="The exact frequency depends on what type of ballast is installed, and there is the possibility of two tubes being out of phase for the same power supply depending on how long it takes them to fire up, so while you may be able to get away with 1/100s, slower shutters speeds often work better in practice." CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:05:05.727" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4672" PostId="4080" Text="The base ISO is a difficult thing to optimise, basically you need to increase the well depth of the sensels which is hard to do whilst increasing resolution. Also any efficiency gains you make in getting light into the sensels (such as better microlenses etc.) is actually going to raise the base ISO..." CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:11:19.967" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4673" PostId="4120" Text="Generally speaking, a comment like this should really go on the Photo.SE meta site, with a comment linking it. This really isn't an ideal &quot;answer&quot; for this site, as it is more a discussion of what is acceptable/not acceptable here. I recommend either finding related threads on meta (there should be some), or starting a new one if none of the existing ones fit, and link it in a comment to the original question." CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:04:31.820" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4674" PostId="4114" Text="Can't really say that there is a &quot;best&quot; camera for anything. It might be good to reword your title to remove &quot;best&quot; and use a better term, such as &quot;What are the most appropriate cameras for...&quot;, and mitigate the subjectivity a bit. This thread should really be a community wiki as well, as there are not really any &quot;correct&quot; answers here, just varying opinions. Barring significant objection, I'll convert this to CW in a few hours." CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:06:25.077" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4675" PostId="4080" Text="I guess it (almost) goes without saying that I would prefer sensor manufacturers work on improving minimum analog ISO while NOT continuing to increase resolution. Sensors have gotten pretty dense, and while more resolution can be nice, its really not the most important thing. I think many professional photographers would gladly stick with their current sensor resolution and have better ISO range and performance, wider dynamic range, better saturation, etc. The endless march towards higher resolution sensors without significant improvements in these other areas is rather disappointing." CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:18:34.400" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4676" PostId="4080" Text="Regarding base ISO, I think that has more to do with signal-to-noise ratio than than anything else. Lowering the noise floor should allow you to lower your minimum ISO as well. The idea with a lower ISO is not higher efficiency, really. As a landscape photographer, there are many cases where I would rather have a slower (less efficient?) sensor capable of capturing richly saturated photos at high dynamic range that smooth out water and clouds, than a high speed sensor. Kind of like using Velvia 50 film instead of Provia 100 film in a large format. " CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:24:40.220" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4677" PostId="4029" Text="From what I've read (I've never experienced this myself), beam-splitting meters/AF sensors may be susceptible to total blackout if the polarizer is oriented 90 degrees to their own polarization, effectively eliminating the possibility of metering. I gather that AF sensors are not susceptible to total blackout, but AF speed can definitely be affected by a LPL. It would really boil down to how the meter works. If it does not use any polarizing filters, then it would probably be fine, but if it does, there is always the chance of blackout if you align your LPL 90 degrees to the meter filters." CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:30:59.523" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4678" PostId="4075" Text="Interesting. I wasnt aware of that. High ISO is still handy when its really dark... nicer than trying to underexpose and fix it later so the shutter speed stays up." CreationDate="2010-10-22T02:19:17.013" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="4679" PostId="4149" Score="2" Text="Can you provide some additional information? What kinds of things were you doing when the error appeared? Does restarting fix it/not fix it? What have you tried to do to fix it so far? The more information you provide us, the better equipped we can be to help. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-22T02:25:42.007" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4680" PostId="4115" Text="Hope you let us know how it turns out..." CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:49:07.390" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4681" PostId="4141" Text="@Adam, I'm assuming the rolling shutter is responsible for the half-and-half look with white/orange in the same photo?  I suspect that it would be difficult to correct WB on the half-and-half shots (can you apply WB settings from one photo to half of another one?)  Presumably, the boundary area will be the biggest problem." CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:53:14.510" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4682" PostId="4122" Text="Unfortunately, using a flash isn't an option (too distracting during the classes).  I think taking a lot of shots and picking/correcting the good ones is my best option." CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:54:45.287" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4683" PostId="4118" Text="@whuber, thanks for the response and the links.  Flash is not an option, so I guess I just need to shoot a lot, pick the best ones, and correct the WB where possible!" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:59:10.073" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4684" PostId="4116" Score="1" Text="@tomm89, I don't think that's how it works" CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:01:57.017" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4685" PostId="4121" Text="@Matt, so I guess that was one of my (unasked) questions: Does the feature affect the RAW image, or is it something that can be &quot;undone&quot; in post-processing?  Your answer implies that the original is modified in camera." CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:03:20.043" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4686" PostId="4112" Text="Any suggestions on which bodies would be a good choice if I looked for a used one a generation or two old? Is something like eBay the best bet for used gear or are there better places? If I can buy something, I would much rather go that route in the long run." CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:38:53.127" UserId="1689" />
  <row Id="4687" PostId="4110" Text="The only thing I have now are crappy point and shoots. I figure I'd spend a few days prior to leaving taking those couple of hundred shots and figuring out what would be some good general settings indoors and outdoors." CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:42:01.563" UserId="1689" />
  <row Id="4688" PostId="4112" Text="I'll also add that I don't really want to the film thing. I'm much more comfortable with a digital workflow." CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:43:58.863" UserId="1689" />
  <row Id="4689" PostId="4113" Text="I just tested out my low-end linear polarizer and it's autofocus still seems fast and accurate.  Regardless, this doesn't even address my original question." CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:48:58.393" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4690" PostId="4029" Text="I just tested on a white wall.  Around half the time, my meter read 1/3 EV higher than the other half.  Exposure itself was pretty spot on.  AF seemed fast and snappy.  +/- 1/6EV is a pretty small deviation for me.  " CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:55:43.207" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4692" PostId="4144" Text="@Alan - You are correct in the PDF it explains about this under the section Restrictions on Photography in Public places." CreationDate="2010-10-22T07:04:25.010" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4693" PostId="4144" Score="1" Text="@ahockley - Good point, my answer does not say about commercial selling. The PDF does mention commercial and non commercial use throughout so I think still a useful link and worth a read. " CreationDate="2010-10-22T07:09:22.533" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="4695" PostId="4080" Text="@jrista How does SNR affect the base ISO? Let's say camera A has native ISO 100, and we shoot at 1/100s f/2.8 ISO100 (i.e. no amplification) and the shot comes out correctly exposed. Lets say we're developing camera B and we shoot at 1/100s f/2.8 and dont amplify the signal from the sensor and the shot comes out overexposed by 1 stop. This implies the base ISO of camera B is 200. Now we go away and refine the sensor design of B, increasing the SNR, and reshoot the test shot. It will be still over overexposed by 1 stop, meaning the base ISO has not changed." CreationDate="2010-10-22T07:58:59.093" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4696" PostId="4143" Text="Who would be the person to approach in the instance of public art? I'm mostly concerned with works that are on council land, so would it be the council, the artist or even the developer who installed it?" CreationDate="2010-10-22T08:23:16.320" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4697" PostId="4140" Text="Well, actually *taking* a photo of someone elses photo is not illegal, but selling it is. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-22T08:45:14.507" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="4698" PostId="3963" Text="Canon make all of their software available to download from their website; although they are update tools, it is trivial to trick it enough to install, as I found out after losing the original CD that came with my 20D" CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:20:49.267" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4699" PostId="4154" Text="I had heard that the light show on the Eiffel Tower was deemed a unique work, and protected by copyright, and it was partly this that prompted me to ask the question here." CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:28:24.140" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4700" PostId="4140" Text="@Guffa I'm not convinced; I suspect that you would only be pursued for prosecution is you tried to sell a photo of another photo without permission, though." CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:29:53.000" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4701" PostId="4144" Text="I would have thought that copyright *is* or *is not* by the act of taking the photo. Sale of photos seems to be covered by other laws (Oddly, Data Protection where there is any personally identifiable information within it) and therefore affects the ability to sell without consent" CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:34:13.913" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4702" PostId="4152" Text="My interest primarily focuses on works of art within public spaces, like the example (which is actually in the middle of a roundabout)" CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:52:40.813" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4703" PostId="4141" Text="@seanmc - Yes, the rolling shutter, coupled with the changing light conditions results in the half and half photo.  If it was important to save that one shot, I imagine a custom white balance could be applied using photoshop and masking. You are correct that the boundary region would require special attention." CreationDate="2010-10-22T12:29:16.147" UserId="1216" />
  <row Id="4704" PostId="4151" Text="Thank you. This is an important detail. I'll try to evaluate both if they are available at the local shop." CreationDate="2010-10-22T12:52:17.353" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4705" PostId="4153" Text="Thank you, John. Your reasons sound very convincing in favour of 100 mm WR." CreationDate="2010-10-22T12:57:33.247" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4706" PostId="4157" Score="1" Text="What type of information within your cheat sheet are you looking for?  The light meter within your camera will give you the correct exposure for the screen depending on your aperture and speed." CreationDate="2010-10-22T13:24:29.380" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="4707" PostId="562" Score="9" Text="I think your example with pixel value is not correct. In 16-bit it would be 196*256, and doubling it would still clip the channel at 256*256. The benefit of 16-bit color is enhanced precision of operations, e.g. in curve transform. Intermediate results do not need to be rounded, so color banding effects are less noticeable. Assume that some gradient takes 1/10th of the intensity range, in 8-bit color it will be represented with only 25 shades of gray. Even if you stretch contrast, the same gradient will be represented again by only 25 or 26 shades, and the histogram will look spiky." CreationDate="2010-10-22T13:28:34.107" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4708" PostId="4143" Text="Actually I shot a public art installation a few months ago, sculptures of Seward Johnson that are on display in Albany:&#xA;http://barre.me/2010/06/23/seward-johnson-sculpture-walking-tour/&#xA;I contacted both the foundation representing the artist, and the non-profit organization that made it happen in the city, just to cover more angles. A new installation rotates every year, a friend of mine had shot the one in 2009, and he had contacted the artist only. &#xA;" CreationDate="2010-10-22T13:39:53.477" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4709" PostId="4154" Text="Yes it is true, it's a pretty infamous example (I'm French, and not so proud about this restriction)" CreationDate="2010-10-22T13:41:34.157" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4710" PostId="4157" Text="I do use the camera's light meter, and I can get things right, but I want to have a little more info so that I can make creative adjustments quicker.  Say I want to add flash from 45 deg, and decrease the depth of field... I'd like to be able to look at all the info in one place and make all the necessary changes without a bunch of test shots." CreationDate="2010-10-22T13:49:01.073" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4711" PostId="4158" Text="http://glark.org/media/exposure-cheat-sheet.pdf and http://www.flickr.com/photos/amandaherbertcom/2370352162/ are both examples of what I have in mind." CreationDate="2010-10-22T13:54:13.710" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4712" PostId="4158" Text="I added one link, now that you mentioned guide numbers." CreationDate="2010-10-22T14:10:37.690" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4713" PostId="4131" Text="I often rent from Lenses For Hire - I've found the service to be excellent. They don't have a store front, but you *can* arrange to collect in person in Maidenhead." CreationDate="2010-10-22T14:28:56.397" UserId="674" />
  <row Id="4714" PostId="4159" Text="I know there are a few formulas you can use regarding guide number and distance..." CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:23:29.273" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4715" PostId="4158" Text="Thanks! I think I might actually combine some of the information from a few of these and make a small card that has just the information I want." CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:26:25.913" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4716" PostId="4159" Score="1" Text="@sebastian.b has basically all the information I had in mind in his answer. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4157/photography-cheat-sheet/4158#4158  I know I *could* do it all without, but I'd much prefer to do a 2 sec calculation and be 90% of the way than to fiddle with settings for 20 seconds to get to what I was looking for." CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:29:40.363" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4717" PostId="1205" Score="3" Text="&quot;sudo aptitude install digikam&quot; is usually enough to get digikam working on Ubuntu." CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:32:32.033" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4718" PostId="333" Score="3" Text="@andy digiKam has a RAW processing plugin. It launches when the RAW file is opened in the editor. Internally it uses libraw software. IMO, digiKam RAW converter is less convenient than UFRaw, but it is a matter of taste. In digiKam 1.2.0 it allows: 16 bit demosaicking, AHD/VNG/PPG and Bilinear filters, manual and auto WB tuning, auto-brightness fix, noise reduction and CA correction as well as exposure correction and curves in post-processing." CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:50:58.137" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4719" PostId="4140" Text="@Rowland Shaw: A law against photographing someone elses photos would contradict the freedom of photography. In most countries you may photograph *anything* that you can see as long as you are standing in a public place. The only exception is things like military installments. Consider if you would have to always make sure that you never ever have a photo displayed anywhere where you take a picture. Would this photo be illegal to take? http://www.guffa.com/Photo_result.asp?words=modell" CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:54:55.787" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="4720" PostId="4080" Text="Well, first, you need to explain why your hypothetical Sensor B overexposes by a stop. That isn't just going to randomly happen, that is something that is specifically designed, and made possible by the circuitry, microlensing, layering, etc. in the sensor. I guess my point is, right now, to get ISO 50, the camera overexposes the image at ISO100, then digitally underexposes it to achieve a correct ISO50 result. (i.e. Pull-Processes it like you would an ISO 100 film to get ISO 50 performance). I'd love a &quot;true&quot; ISO50. Not sure what I was thinking yesterday about SNR...the thought is gone now." CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:24:18.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4721" PostId="4080" Text="Oh, regarding SNR. I think the thought I had yesterday was, if I get ISO 50 in a camera, I wouldn't like it to just be like ISO 100, and have ISO 100 perform more like ISO 200 from a noise perspective. If I had a native ISO 50 in a camera, I would at the very least want my ISO 100 ISO 200, etc. to keep performing just as well as it does today from an SNR perspective, with ISO 50 performing better." CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:39:12.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4722" PostId="4159" Score="3" Text="The formula(s) for guide number make no account of diffusion or light bouncing off the floor walls etc. and are based on GN figures that come from the manufacturers marketing department... whereas what you see on the LCD takes it all into account. You're welcome to use whatever means you prefer of course, I just think learning to judge the settings directly will be of more benefit to you." CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:40:10.510" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4723" PostId="135" Score="1" Text="So by &quot;research&quot; you mean don't ask questions, look at other places on the internet. Since that answer could be applied to any question on a StackExchange site it isn't really helpful. Especially if the purpose of SE sites is to establish a reference library of answers to questions." CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:56:24.093" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="4724" PostId="152" Text="What about lens quality?" CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:57:15.293" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="4725" PostId="4080" Text="When I'm talking about the base ISO, I mean the native ISO of the sensor, not the lowest setting the camera offers (which is often a fiddle). A lower base ISO is *only* beneficial in terms of noise if it is achieved by increasing the well depth of the sensels allowing more light to be captured by the electronics. It goes back to the idea that the amount of light captured is the biggest influence on noise, not the ISO setting." CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:00:33.200" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4726" PostId="4155" Text="+1 for the Live View trick. When my D7000 arrives I will definitely work this into my shooting style." CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:09:09.277" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4727" PostId="4001" Text="s/sub-estimated/underestimated/" CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:12:28.493" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4728" PostId="2972" Text="This definitely seems to help.  So does the suggestion about *not* filling the frame with the card.  I need to run more experiments to determine if just one of these answers is sufficient." CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:21:26.813" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="4729" PostId="2978" Text="This definitely seems to help.  So does the suggestion about ensuring proper exposure first.  I need to run more experiments to determine if just one of these answers is sufficient." CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:21:42.867" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="4730" PostId="4158" Score="2" Text="http://squit.co.uk/photo/exposurecalc.html is a handy slide-rule style exposure calculator for available light (not flash). It even comes with a nice EV chart on the back." CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:21:59.643" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4731" PostId="4159" Score="1" Text="I'm not planning to use the cheat sheet exclusively, my idea is simply to use it to skip ahead to a better starting point." CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:59:41.073" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4732" PostId="4154" Text="The same restrictions are used in the UK by the National Trust, for example. You can't sell shots of any of their stuff." CreationDate="2010-10-22T19:37:09.887" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="4733" PostId="4140" Text="@Guffa surely the difference is whether the photo is incidental, or whether it was intentionally copied -- similar to music playing whilst dictating a letter, vs. intentionally copying it." CreationDate="2010-10-22T19:47:18.797" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4734" PostId="4120" Text="@jrista: Yes, what you say makes sense." CreationDate="2010-10-22T19:52:42.703" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4735" PostId="4150" Text="[This store](http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0000A40ZU/ref=asc_df_B0000A40ZU1283276) claims to have one of the adapters. [Here are a few](http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&amp;_nkw=nikon+ia-20s&amp;_sacat=See-All-Categories) on eBay." CreationDate="2010-10-22T19:55:44.740" UserId="522" />
  <row Id="4736" PostId="4167" Text="+1 for having such a cool home office" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:07:17.427" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4737" PostId="4167" Text="If 16mm is ultra wide, then what's a 6mm? Mega-wide? Uber-wide? I think we need to come up with a new term!" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:08:14.047" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4738" PostId="4168" Score="1" Text="yup, depending on sensor/film size 18mm is either a super-telephoto, telephoto, normal, wide, or ultra wide..." CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:09:10.017" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4739" PostId="3660" Text="@Alfred - maybe that's a business opportunity for you ;)" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:55:46.547" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4740" PostId="4167" Text="@Matt Grum, a 6mm would generally be a point-and-shoot type of camera." CreationDate="2010-10-22T21:01:48.263" UserId="1738" />
  <row Id="4741" PostId="4167" Text="yeah but you *can* get a 6mm lens for a 35mm SLR!" CreationDate="2010-10-22T21:40:46.650" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4742" PostId="4150" Text="Yeah, eBay is probably one of the best places for it." CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:20:44.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4743" PostId="4112" Text="@Adam, there's several questions on where to get used gear, so search around a bit and you'll find what you're looking for." CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:26:17.227" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4745" PostId="4165" Text="As many of the answers note, that depends on your sensor size... can you clarify what camera you're planning to use it on?" CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:28:20.113" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4746" PostId="4167" Text="I suspect that the OP doesn't have a FF camera; probably should ask for clarification before answering as if s/he did." CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:29:05.200" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4747" PostId="4168" Text="No &quot;generally&quot; about it. @Matt's correct - depends on the sensor size." CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:29:43.810" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4748" PostId="4125" Text="great question!" CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:30:59.770" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4749" PostId="4129" Text="I think it's a bit misleading to say that there's &quot;practically no learning curve&quot; - certainly, much less than a body but still there." CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:32:05.590" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4750" PostId="4167" Text="@reid: I addressed that. Even if he is on a crop factor, a 16 would be considered very reasonably wide." CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:57:03.767" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4751" PostId="4116" Text="That's what commented instead of answering your post." CreationDate="2010-10-23T00:08:30.593" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4752" PostId="4052" Score="1" Text="@chills42, probably should note that you removed the photo mentioned by @pkaeding. Otherwise his/her comments make no sense. I realize it's all in the edit history, but since the change was so dramatic, IMO it should be mentioned in a more obvious place too like the comments here." CreationDate="2010-10-23T02:53:49.510" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4753" PostId="4052" Text="@Drew, this answer has generated a question on meta: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/367/what-to-do-about-shills-suggesting-their-products. We'd love for you to participate in the discussion." CreationDate="2010-10-23T02:58:03.197" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4754" PostId="4161" Text="I've tried enfuse. It is great!" CreationDate="2010-10-23T04:09:40.320" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4755" PostId="4168" Text="Yes, which is why I said 'Depends on the size of the sensor'. Did you read beyond the first word of my answer?" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:17:06.040" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="4756" PostId="4176" Score="1" Text="It seems that it is good to clarify exactly what I mean by DoF here. I am not referring to any kind of &quot;apparent&quot; or &quot;relative&quot; DoF (= does it look like there is a lot of DoF in the picture) but to &quot;absolute&quot; DoF (= which objects are inside DoF and which objects are not). For example, whether a particular street sign is easily readable or blurred beyond recognition. I do not think that this kind of difference can be explained by any cropping or magnification alone?" CreationDate="2010-10-23T20:45:25.380" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4757" PostId="4176" Text="I disagree that your link is a good read on the subject of depth of field and sensor size. It confuses the issue, and fails to compare like with like. I quote *&quot;If you're like me, I don't need nor do I want to take a ruler and a calculator with me when I'm strolling around with my camera, so I can calculate a miniscule depth of field change between camera bodies&quot;*. Firstly it's not a miniscule change, it's about 1.3 stops between the 30D and 5D, and secondly you don't need a ruler to measure it - *it's 1.3 stops.* People stopped arguing about this a while ago since it's so easy to demonstrate." CreationDate="2010-10-23T23:00:01.080" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4758" PostId="4184" Text="Even though selections are alpha masks it's possible to have a mask containing only values 0 and 255, which is what you should obtain when feather is 0 and AA is turned off. In fact this is exactly what I get with these settings. The fact that I can't replicate the problem described here is what makes me think this is a bug." CreationDate="2010-10-23T23:11:24.967" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4759" PostId="4187" Text="@Matt, do you know if the Nikon D90 one of those bodies?" CreationDate="2010-10-23T23:34:17.623" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4760" PostId="4176" Text="@Jukka: Not by cropping and magnification alone. There are likely some optical effects of the prism and focusing screen itself that will affect this as well. (I think I noted that.) I don't think any single thing alone is really the cause, but the combination of it all. I'll see if I can put together a visual example of why I think cropping plays a role." CreationDate="2010-10-24T00:02:41.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4761" PostId="4176" Score="1" Text="@Matt: Depth of field is a function of the lens, not the imaging medium. For identical aperture and subject distance, I don't believe there is any difference in the actual depth of field, since part of the image circle is cropped with the smaller sensor. If you are talking for identically framed subjects, then yes, there is a difference in the depth of field, since for the larger sensor you have to get closer for the same framing. Between sensor and viewfinder, you have the same subject distance and aperture, but slightly more cropping in the viewfinder." CreationDate="2010-10-24T00:05:42.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4762" PostId="4188" Score="1" Text="You seem new here. Welcome!" CreationDate="2010-10-24T03:37:42.590" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4763" PostId="4176" Text="@jrista Actually all accepted definitions of depth of field refer to *the entire system* and thus take lens, sensor and *viewing distance* into account. Also why wouldn't you compare the same framing? If you were comparing a DSLRs to a compact/bridge camera you wouldn't put a 16mm ultra-wideangle lens on the DSLR in order to be using the same focal length." CreationDate="2010-10-24T07:11:58.697" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4764" PostId="3383" Score="1" Text="I have a Canon FS 4000 US that scans whole rolls of APS film but it also doesn't read the magnetic strip. :(" CreationDate="2010-10-24T08:31:51.427" UserId="1078" />
  <row Id="4765" PostId="4129" Text="Yes the curve is still there, but the fact that in 99.9% of cases you just have to mount the lens (in the same way you mount your other lenses) and shoot, makes the learning curve is about as shallow as you can get. I've edited the answer to remove the possibility of misleading." CreationDate="2010-10-24T10:48:16.790" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4766" PostId="4165" Text="@Reid: I'm planning to buy and use a Canon EOS Rebel T2i whose sensor size, from what I understood reading the answers, is not full frame." CreationDate="2010-10-24T10:59:50.960" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4767" PostId="4187" Text="The specs state it has a central cross type sensor (i.e. sensitive to horizontal and vertical contrast), however I can't find anything that says it's only active at f/2.8 and faster. However faster lenses are generally better for AF, and will give you a brighter viewfinder image (until you dip below f/2.8) due to the fact the lens remains wide open until you fire the shutter." CreationDate="2010-10-24T11:03:26.933" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4768" PostId="4170" Text="@jrista: Thanks for the detailed and wonderful answer. I'm planning to buy and use a Canon EOS Rebel T2i, which has an APS-C sensor. One of its kit lens has focal length range from 18 to 135mm. So I guess from the tables above that it supports the higher end of the wide angle spectrum. The other wide angle lens from Canon for this camera (10 - 22mm) that I liked is as costly as the camera itself. So I'll just settle for the kit lens for now." CreationDate="2010-10-24T11:13:16.887" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="4769" PostId="2717" Text="@jrista: I worked with a Linhof 5x7 for three years. This is slow painstaking photography where nothing but the very best will do. If you have the soul of a craftsman and a passionate desire for excellence then this is the route to go." CreationDate="2010-10-24T14:57:10.447" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4770" PostId="4129" Text="No, there's more to it than that. Example: if you haven't used a long lens before, acceptable shutter speeds may be different. Handholding technique may be more exacting. The perspective compression requires different composition techniques. etc.  Not to mention lenses have quirks to be learned (e.g., when does it flare, is it soft wide open, what is the bokeh like, how well does the VR work). Things like that are what I was referring to." CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:36:32.197" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4771" PostId="2154" Text="there is an example of using this with a Canon 1d mk 2 in EOS Magazine April/June 2009 (page 40)" CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:55:56.150" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4772" PostId="4129" Text="@reid This is all very true, there is a lot to learn, but it doesn't change the fact that the *learning curve* is shallow i.e. *you need hardly any knowledge to* **start** *using a lens*. The learning rate gets steeper as you take a lens to the extremes of its performance envelope, and some lenses can be difficult to master, but that doesn't mean the learning curve can't be shallow, which is important when it comes to renting unfamiliar gear. " CreationDate="2010-10-24T16:05:45.987" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4773" PostId="2984" Text="great question!" CreationDate="2010-10-24T16:09:14.423" UserId="1749" />
  <row Id="4774" PostId="4176" Text="If I was comparing the images of two separate cameras, I would compare the same framing. In the context of this question, everything is identical except the extra cropping of the viewfinder. Most definitions of DOF involve the circle of confusion, which technically is more a factor of print size than imaging medium. I guess you could make the argument that sensor photosite affects the CoC, but sensor density is so high these days, were talking about a 10-12 micron CoC, which is well below the limits of human resolvability, allowing for considerable enlargement. Anyway...I guess we can move on." CreationDate="2010-10-24T17:53:05.997" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4775" PostId="4198" Text="Thanks for the link! It does look like they have it, and its a good price too! Much appreciated. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-24T17:55:31.890" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4776" PostId="2717" Text="@labnut: Thanks. :) I'm a huge perfectionist, and I think large format would help me achieve my ultimate goals. I think I need to refine my creative edge before I dive into such a complex form of photography, though. I'm still learning how to find good light and properly expose without heavily relying on a histogram. Little details that I think I would be too lost without by going to a large format right now. It is definitely something I'm planning for in the future, though." CreationDate="2010-10-24T18:00:28.013" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4777" PostId="4170" Text="@Artknish: Glad to be of service. :) Regarding the 18-135mm, it would barely qualify as &quot;Wide&quot; and would generally fit the &quot;Normal to Supertele&quot; range on the T2i. With APS-C, it is really tough to get wide angle. The EF-S 10-22mm is a good lens, and pretty much the only thing that really offers a &quot;wide angle&quot; of view on an APS-C body. It is the effective equivalent of the EF 16-35mm L lens (10 * 1.6 = 16mm, 22 * 1.6 = 35.2mm). The bummer about the EF-S mount is that it only works for APS-C bodies, and wouldn't be compatible with, say, a 5D if you chose to upgrade in the future." CreationDate="2010-10-24T18:08:34.963" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4778" PostId="4029" Text="Guess Pentax uses a different kind of metering system that doesn't polarize light. " CreationDate="2010-10-24T18:51:05.580" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4779" PostId="4129" Text="The shape of the learning curve isn't the issue; the real issue is *Can I use this equipment **effectively** without preparation?* And I assert that for many lenses the answer is no. My reading of your text is that you're asserting one can simply attach an unfamiliar lens and immediately begin making good photos with it, and I think that's unrealistic." CreationDate="2010-10-24T20:06:28.430" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4780" PostId="4129" Text="That's what a shallow learning curve means (at least to me). It means you can pick up a lens and take *good* photos with it (relative to your skills as a photographer). You might not take *exceptional* photos straight away but there's no reason to expect you wouldn't be able to get **good** photos *just because you hadn't used a certain lens before*. This has overwhelmingly been my experience, I bought a 50 f/1.4 to shoot a gig, this was one of my first images: http://goo.gl/7hPD likewise I bought a 135 f/2 and took it to shoot the UK Prime Minister without any practice: http://goo.gl/Gxp0" CreationDate="2010-10-24T21:01:27.943" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4781" PostId="4084" Text="+1 hey thanks dude. Yeah, I've been shooting quite a lot of 35mm recently on my &quot;new&quot; Nikon F3, and yeah, I'm just not even thinking about the money... it's just too much fun. I still haven't made the jump to the RB, but that will be my medium format camera I think... I'll definitely report back, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-10-24T22:36:45.303" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="4782" PostId="333" Text="cool, thanks for the info jetxee!" CreationDate="2010-10-24T22:47:04.213" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="4783" PostId="4192" Score="2" Text="I appreciate this is an opinion, frankly stated. I think it is worth noting that some people would disagree with this opinion (independent, as you say, of where the law stands.)" CreationDate="2010-10-25T11:50:02.583" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="4784" PostId="4204" Text="You seem new here! Welcome." CreationDate="2010-10-25T12:42:47.683" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4785" PostId="4202" Text="The &quot;20 AAs for $20&quot; are probably alkaline, which work very poorly in cameras; you'd be getting more like 50 frames per set than 1000. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/570/what-attributes-should-i-look-for-when-buying-batteries-for-a-flash for more." CreationDate="2010-10-25T12:48:49.480" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4786" PostId="4207" Text="The marketing materials for the Canon 5D mkII states *Users can even shoot video to memory card without losing the ability to capture still images.* I don't know wether you can output an HDMI signal whilst this is happening, I also think that there's a pause in the video whilst the camera is processing the still image... it wouldn't take a breakthrough to enable this, just a little extra processing power / throughput of the image pipeline" CreationDate="2010-10-25T13:30:05.357" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4787" PostId="4207" Score="3" Text="there is a pause of about a second when grabbing a still on the 5D2 - you are also limited on the shooting mode used." CreationDate="2010-10-25T14:43:30.500" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4788" PostId="4203" Score="1" Text="don't forget that you can find the answers to many of those questions on here..." CreationDate="2010-10-25T14:46:05.893" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4789" PostId="2294" Score="1" Text="Exactly why I salute Pentax for bringing back the prime kit lens: bundling the 35mm f2.4 with their new cameras.  So much better, and I hope other manufacturers follow suit." CreationDate="2010-10-25T16:21:00.487" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4790" PostId="4180" Text="@Jrista - Wow, Those photographs are awesome. Well, If you consider yourself novice, then I am not even in the picture. ;). Well seriously this is inspiring me to start taking this photography seriously. I really would love to have such photographs in my collection." CreationDate="2010-10-25T16:55:20.833" UserId="1272" />
  <row Id="4791" PostId="4200" Score="1" Text="Tried it, couldn't get the effect you described. I've put the details at the end of my answer." CreationDate="2010-10-25T19:01:51.943" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4792" PostId="4177" Score="1" Text="Good job! I never saw the Fresnel structure of the viewfinder so clearly demonstrated. However, I tried to make a point about: &quot;If light cannot travel one way, it cannot travel the other way&quot;. If you want to follow this idea, you have to look at the front side of the lens from a distance. Ideally you should be at the subject's place. Then you will not be able to see the focusing screen, but that's not the point. The point is that only the center of the **entrance pupil** will be bright." CreationDate="2010-10-25T19:26:55.163" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="4793" PostId="4175" Text="I thought I would also share this piece of information that I accidentally learned when trying to understand this phenomenon: Without DoF preview, the optical viewfinder of course uses the largest aperture of the lens. However, *live view does not do the same*! With an f/1.8 lens, live view might use something like f/3.5, even in low-light conditions. You can use the DoF preview button to show the scene through a *larger* aperture then. Of course this makes a lot of sense – largest aperture is not necessarily best for video – but I had never thought about it." CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:00:09.167" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4794" PostId="4200" Text="Thanks, *excellent* illustration!" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:39:19.850" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4795" PostId="4211" Score="5" Text="Are you asking about ISO &quot;speed&quot; (which measures sensor sensitivity) or shutter &quot;speed&quot; (which is the exposure time in [reciprocal] seconds)?" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:42:13.363" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4796" PostId="4200" Score="1" Text="By the way, while these photos demonstrate that something in the viewfinder limits the effective aperture, it does not yet explain whether it is the focusing screen *alone* or whether there are also other obstructions on the light path that limit the effective aperture of the viewfinder. It would be interesting to see the same experiment repeated with a different focusing screen..." CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:43:30.117" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="4797" PostId="4202" Score="1" Text="Ideally you'd pay more for lithium batteries but those batteries (Duracell) last several hundred (300-500) shots on my K200D, which is the predecessor of the K-x. So for me, that would be 1500 to 2500 shots for $20 CDN. I normally use rechargeable ones but I too have gone several times for several weeks away from electricity.... Oh, I almost forgot, I have to confess to almost never use flash, that does make a big difference, about 33% in terms of shots-per-charge." CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:59:01.793" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4798" PostId="4213" Text="Never heard of this one. I went to their site and it really does not say anything about organizing files as the question asked. Does it?" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:14:49.343" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4799" PostId="4219" Text="+1 for picasa, it's excellent for organizing your images.  I'm sure Lightroom is great, but it's the most unintuitive application I've ever tried to use." CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:21:54.847" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4800" PostId="4218" Score="2" Text="*&quot;It's usually advisable to use the lowest ISO setting you can in order to get the correct exposure at your chosen shutter speed and aperture size&quot;* strangely for a given shutter speed and aperture you should use the **highest** ISO possible without overexposing the image. Using the lowest ISO will result in underexposure and massively increased shadow noise: http://goo.gl/9xrK lowering the ISO **only** reduces noise if you accompany it by changing shutter/aperture to let in more light, otherwise you underexpose which is worse for noise than high ISO" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:23:17.993" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4801" PostId="4180" Score="2" Text="Thanks for the compliments. :) Keep in mind, the last three are from some of my favorite landscape photographers, they are not my own. You can see a marked difference between a pro's photographs and my own. ;) One thing I really can't stress enough is to use Graduated ND filters. Before I got a Lee Foundation kit and some lee hard and soft grad ND's, I had a real hard time with landscapes. GND filters are an essential component of any landscape photographers kit." CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:50:21.330" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4802" PostId="4215" Text="+1 for Lightroom. It is an excellent program that does exactly what the OP asked for. Lightroom 3 is pretty darn fast for searching huge libraries as well. I have some 10,000 photographs in my library, and it is easy to search by tags, filenames, keywords, and a variety of flagging utilities like pick/reject, stars, color tags, etc." CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:51:25.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4803" PostId="4211" Text="Thanks whuber, you are correct. " CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:10:49.913" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="4804" PostId="4217" Text="Thanks Itai, I obviously need to learn more. " CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:14:03.310" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="4805" PostId="4218" Text="Thanks Winston and Matt, I certainly will take your advice and look at the previous questions on ISO speed. I should also look a little closer at the information supplied with my wifes camera. Sounds as if &quot;Auto&quot; would be the best setting for someone just starting to learn the  &quot;art&quot; of photography   " CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:18:51.543" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="4806" PostId="4219" Text="@Winston: The first time I looked at LR, I couldn't get my head round it either.  I left it for a while, before coming back to it, and I haven't looked back since.  LR3 is a huge step up in image-processing quality even from LR2, and definitely worth persevering with at getting to know how to use it; it's a great tool." CreationDate="2010-10-25T22:40:48.023" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="4807" PostId="4024" Text="is this really a photography question? Seems more like a technical user manual for a piece of equipment question...?" CreationDate="2010-10-25T23:12:20.487" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="4808" PostId="4024" Score="1" Text="@andy: It is a camera question, specifically dealing with battery lifetime. We do more hardware related questions here than anything, so given precedent, it fits. That said, this is really more of a CHDK question, which really probably fits better on the CHDK wiki or forums than here. I don't know if there is a hard reason for either keeping or or closing it, so I've left it up to the community. So far, it seems like the community wants to keep it: no close votes, and 5 up votes. " CreationDate="2010-10-25T23:16:51.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4809" PostId="4213" Text="i haven't used it in awhile, but the faq mentions the capability to rate pictures. As I recall, though, I would hit a certain key and it moved or copied the image i was looking at into a folder that I picked earlier. Not as robust as a database, but a little more portable if you're using networked drives. " CreationDate="2010-10-25T23:53:05.060" UserId="1757" />
  <row Id="4810" PostId="4207" Text="I'm not smart enough to know if it would be a technical breakthrough (it could be that the sensor can't deliver 30fps at full resolution), but it could still be just an unusual new feature. I'll edit that sentence to try to be clearer." CreationDate="2010-10-26T00:28:45.197" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4811" PostId="4212" Score="1" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-10-26T00:31:01.923" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4812" PostId="4024" Text="@andy: The term &quot;Photography&quot;, involves a lot of things. Since cameras hardware, to art. So, I think my question is not out of topic. jrista is right, this might have been better asked in the CHDK forums, but I asked here first, in case somebody knows." CreationDate="2010-10-26T01:37:17.220" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4813" PostId="4223" Text="I just edited the question to include a screenshot of the error.  It is possible that the issue is not the file format, but the size of the image.  Can LR scale the image down as it uploads?" CreationDate="2010-10-26T02:48:53.820" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4814" PostId="4073" Text="hahaha... stirr it up a bit Nick ;)" CreationDate="2010-10-26T03:02:44.917" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="4815" PostId="4200" Score="1" Text="@Jukka: Good point. The light that comes in through the outer part of the lens actually gets through the focusing screen, but it then comes out in the wrong direction and eventually misses the eyepiece. So the eyepiece has also something to do here. Ideally, the experiment should be repeated with an extra obstruction: a black screen with a hole having the same size and position as the photographer's eye entrance pupil. Then the effective aperture (as seen through the eyepiece + the eye) may still get slightly narrower. And there is also the mirror cutting some light at the bottom." CreationDate="2010-10-26T06:18:34.420" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="4816" PostId="4224" Text="Thank you very much. I decided to get longer 90 mm or 100 mm. Actually, after reading about Tamron 90 mm now, I think it's my favourite. It is told to be as sharp or even better than Pentax WR, and it is light. I don't think I am paying 200€ more for a 60 g advantage and WR. Also thank you for pointing to left-hand brace technique. I didn't know about it." CreationDate="2010-10-26T08:38:02.863" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="4817" PostId="4222" Text="Do you have a Flickr Pro account? Could it be that you've got close to your monthly usage allowance this month?" CreationDate="2010-10-26T10:26:48.260" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="4818" PostId="4029" Text="I've used a linear polarizer on a K20 without issues, but I can't say that I've ever seen a good review of them in more recent times. What you might want to consider is that a company that makes a highly regarded circular polarizer is also likely to make a good linear one. You might also consider something like the Lee or Cokin system to provide a single circular polarizer to cover your lens range, that's the approach I took and it's much cheaper." CreationDate="2010-10-26T13:35:43.260" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4819" PostId="4223" Score="1" Text="Yes, Lightroom has excellent down-scaling options while publishing. You should specify a pixel-width and indicate 'long side'. That will make sure your images have no more then the specified number of pixels in any direction.&#xA;&#xA;You really should be be sending full-resolution images to Flikr unless you want your work to be stolen....and even that it will. Some guy even wrote to complain and say that my pictures looked crappy when printed! At 600px per side, I made sure of that!" CreationDate="2010-10-26T13:47:52.640" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4820" PostId="4215" Text="Lightroom is great, that is the one I use, but it is by far not quick. Just the fact that you have to import images first before doing anything to them makes it slower than many other software." CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:04:53.313" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4821" PostId="2184" Score="3" Text="The biggest difference was forgotten... Lightroom is non-destructive, it does not modify your original files. You can have multiple edits of the same files and revert to the originals any time." CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:08:09.503" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4822" PostId="4222" Text="Nope, I have a Pro account." CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:29:41.857" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4823" PostId="4223" Text="@Itai, So, how can I specify the down-scaling when publishing to Flickr?  I know how to do that when exporting to my hard drive, but I am hoping that I can do it as part of the Flickr upload process." CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:31:24.523" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4824" PostId="4222" Text="what dimensions are the shots that fail? " CreationDate="2010-10-26T15:11:05.347" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4825" PostId="4029" Text="@John Cavan: I've heard of the Lee/Cokin system but am not familiar.  Can you elaborate?  Personally, I was going to get two 77mm filters and have adapters for anywhere from 49 to 77mm to use them on all of my lenses." CreationDate="2010-10-26T15:26:19.640" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4826" PostId="4029" Text="@Eruditass - Posted below as an answer since I wanted to supply some links and potentially more detail than comments allow." CreationDate="2010-10-26T15:44:07.800" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4827" PostId="4230" Text="Can you elaborate on the pro's versus one 77mm linear polarizer ($30) and step-up adapters from 49mm to 77mm ($10)? Two will act as a variable ND, and I can still stack a grad ND as long as the filters have threads on the front.  Ease of use? " CreationDate="2010-10-26T15:53:43.007" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4828" PostId="4230" Text="You can certainly go that route, but a rectangular graduated ND is much more flexible than one that screws onto the lens because it is much easier to adjust the graduation point for the composition. With one that screws onto the lens, you're likely going to need to adjust your composition instead, which is not as ideal. In any case, either system is dead simple to use, no harder than any other filter option. There are also other forms of graduated filters that may be of interest as you go along." CreationDate="2010-10-26T16:04:57.080" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4829" PostId="4230" Text="So what I've gathered: http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00J41S is that it's more of a pain with polarizers because you can't rotate it as easily, but useful for split filters and grad ND's because you can slide it out. And they have a hood system (and other accessories) system." CreationDate="2010-10-26T16:05:49.733" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4830" PostId="4230" Text="I haven't found it to be especially a pain, but that probably varies by individual more than anything. But yes, they have lots of accessories and other filter options that are harder to do with a screw in type. That's a plus that attracted me to the system, that and it would seem that many of the drop in filters are cheaper than their cousins, so as I accumulate, I save a little bit." CreationDate="2010-10-26T16:09:36.887" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4831" PostId="4230" Text="Yep, getting oversize filters and using a holder or step up rings is a very good way to &quot;future proof&quot; your filter investment! " CreationDate="2010-10-26T16:16:25.333" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4832" PostId="4222" Text="@Roland It failed with an 18MP shot (I don't have the exact dimensions handy right now).  It doesn't surprise me that the photo needs to be scaled down; it surprises me that LR doesn't take care of it behind the scenes (or give me an option to specify the max dimensions)." CreationDate="2010-10-26T16:37:01.287" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4833" PostId="4230" Text="Have to vote this one up. I own the Lee filter system myself, and it is awesome. There is nothing quite like having a single set of filters that works for every lens you own. Lee filters are excellent too, and many of the more specialized ones, such as the polarizer, they offer in a multicoated glass variant. Good stuff. The polarizer attaches to the front of the foundation kit, and it isn't too difficult to rotate. You can combine GND filters and a polarizer all at once if you need to. When you use 4x6 filters, it gets a little tougher to rotate the polarizer, but it is not impossible." CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:59:09.593" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4834" PostId="3504" Text="@BBischof: HA! Funny. :P" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:05:01.757" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4835" PostId="4227" Score="1" Text="I did try moving the camera. I've taken enough shots now to know for a fact that the spots are on the sensor. I get the same spots in the same location in my pictures every time I take a photo. Sometimes they don't show up if the location they are at is complex...but in solid colors or smooth gradients, they show up like beacons. I have to find a cleaning system for my camera and clean the sensor." CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:06:28.040" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4837" PostId="4231" Text="Thanks, this sounds like what I was looking for.  I don't think I saw any &quot;Image Sizing&quot; parameters in the Flickr publishing options, but I will look again when I get back to that computer." CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:46:58.053" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4838" PostId="3504" Text="@jrista, since you didnt respond for a while, I was worried that you were angry with me for making this joke. :P" CreationDate="2010-10-26T20:17:34.770" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="4839" PostId="4215" Text="Not quite sure why I've been downvoted twice for my answer.  Ignoring any processing abilities, I'd still use Lightroom purely for it's organisational and searching abilities (e.g. Smart Collections), EXIF/IPTC editing/searching, etc." CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:43:05.117" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="4840" PostId="3504" Text="@BBischof: No, no. Not at all. :D (I just didn't see it before.)" CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:48:19.667" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4841" PostId="4180" Score="2" Text="One other comment, I guess. There are some key but perhaps subtle differences between the &quot;Poor&quot; shots and the &quot;Good&quot; shots. Examine those images closely to fully understand the differences. The first couple look nice at first glance, but after a little scrutiny, they start to look really &quot;flat&quot; due to the direct and rather uninteresting lighting." CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:50:46.997" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4842" PostId="4223" Score="1" Text="Right-click on the Flickr 'bar' under Publishing service. From the menu that appears, select 'Edit Settings', that is the first option. The 'Lightroom Publishing Manager' will appear. You should see a big scrollable area on the right, scroll it until you see a heading that says 'Image Sizing'. If you do not see the size options, then expand the section by clicking on the heading itself. I use Lightroom 3.2, in case that makes a difference." CreationDate="2010-10-27T01:31:45.437" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4843" PostId="4231" Text="I looked again, and I can't find the Image Sizing options.  I have edited the question, with a screenshot.  I know that you are following a slightly different workflow, since you want to keep a copy of the JPG image locally before publishing it." CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:27:39.210" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4844" PostId="4223" Text="@Itai Thank you!  I just edited the question explaining that I couldn't find the option that @sebastien.b was describing, and then I saw your comment.  If you would like to post this comment as an answer, I can accept it, since that was what solved the problem for me." CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:29:49.443" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="4845" PostId="4179" Text="All good answers, each adding useful information: some cameras have special AF sensors at F2.8, AF will be faster at F2.8 because of more light reaching the sensor, rule of thumb for shutter speed as inverse of focal length for when VR becomes useful, possibility of sharper images from faster lens when stopped down.  How do I just pick one answer as &quot;the correct one&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:39:15.210" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="4846" PostId="4223" Text="@pkaeding You're Welcome. Done! You're right, posting it as an answer will also make it more visible. I still find myself often doubting between answering and commenting." CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:50:49.737" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4847" PostId="4231" Score="1" Text="Got it. You are not at the right place, you are looking at the Lightroom Plugin Manager here, not the Lightroom Publishing Manager. Look at the very bottom of the left panel in the Library Module. There is a section called &quot;Publish Services&quot;, and there is a &quot;Flickr&quot; tab there: right click on it and select &quot;Edit Settings&quot;. If there isn't a Flickr Publishing Service, you just need to instantiate a Flickr Publishing Service by clicking on the &quot;+&quot; button, and selecting &quot;Go to Publishing Manager&quot; and click &quot;Add&quot;. Does it help?" CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:55:22.500" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4848" PostId="4215" Text="I'm guessing it has to do with speed which is what the original poster asked for. I do use Lightroom for organizing, as I mentioned already, but I do my primary culling in PMView Pro. It would be way too slow in Lightroom. Now, if you need to organize at the same time, which PMView Pro does not do, then  another solution is needed. I mentioned PicaJet FX exactly because it is very fast. It is also very simple, which you can see as a plus or a minus, depending if it does what you want or not ;)" CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:55:39.980" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4849" PostId="4238" Text="I have been tempted to write a ruby script for this ... but if something already exists, I would prefer just to use that " CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:36:10.667" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="4850" PostId="4212" Text="thanks reid and thanks all for the great answers. Didn't realize there were so many options. I don't think there is a single answer i could accept, but i will check out all the answers and up-vote." CreationDate="2010-10-27T06:22:59.400" UserId="1757" />
  <row Id="4851" PostId="4232" Text="Very effective, well done." CreationDate="2010-10-27T07:08:32.143" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4852" PostId="4236" Score="4" Text="what operating system(s) are you interested in?" CreationDate="2010-10-27T07:28:39.313" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4853" PostId="4221" Text="Thanksyet again jrista. Had a look at the 7D on Amazon, I may save up in order to get the awesome present you suggest. Just wondered if the lenses that fit the 450D would also fit the 7D?" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:30:13.760" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="4854" PostId="4221" Text="My wifes lenses stop arround 300 and the next step up in lenses appears to be a mighty step indeed, have you any suggestions on this (do you think I should ask another question regarding this?" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:31:55.223" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="4855" PostId="4241" Text="In &quot;AF G&quot;, I reckon that AF is auto-focus, but what is the G? Please excuse the camera noob :)" CreationDate="2010-10-27T09:50:32.583" UserId="1771" />
  <row Id="4856" PostId="4244" Score="3" Text="Either that or the camera is doing some lens correction at the wide end for the vignetting or CA and the result discards some data from the sensor." CreationDate="2010-10-27T11:32:33.643" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4857" PostId="4244" Text="That's a bit more likely actually. I was just going to add a bit about how some image processing steps based around convolution produce slightly smaller images as a result (by half the width of the kernel)." CreationDate="2010-10-27T11:48:31.290" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4858" PostId="4243" Text="You make a very good point about becoming a more experienced and demanding photographer over time. Right now, the unexperienced photographer, that is me, want a convenient &quot;super-zoom&quot; lens. Would you recommend getting a &quot;cheap&quot; one, rather than an expensive Nikkor model, which I will not use anyways as I gain more experience?" CreationDate="2010-10-27T12:03:47.487" UserId="1771" />
  <row Id="4859" PostId="4242" Score="2" Text="Stick with the raw shooting - it will pay off, what you're seeng here is actually an advantage of raw, that you have no idea what the camera is doing to your JPEGs without your knowledge! " CreationDate="2010-10-27T12:59:22.253" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4860" PostId="4244" Text="Thanks. It's definitely distortion correction. I cropped the raw to match the JPG boundaries, and then A/Bing between the two, the distortion correction was obvious. The perceived difference in 'scale' had blinded me to the distortion." CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:05:05.307" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4861" PostId="4244" Text="Can we break this up because it contains multiple answers? Would be nice to be able to vote up the right one. The last 'edit' with he sensor diagram is most likely it." CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:57:13.520" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4862" PostId="4245" Text="+1 for FastStone, an excellent Image Viewer and very complete image resizer." CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:28:22.047" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="4863" PostId="4244" Text="@itai I've edited the answer to make it more coherent and to correspond better with the original question. There are still multiple answers there and despite the second one being the likely solution to the original problem, I think the first part is still worth including as it is relevant to other cameras. But if people prefer I could break it up..." CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:33:45.207" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4864" PostId="4221" Text="@Dennis - Yes - any lens that will fit the 450D will also fit the 7D. (Although some may not fit the 5D, but that is unlikely to be a concern I think)." CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:51:25.467" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="4866" PostId="4248" Text="The need for a good charger can't be overstated!!" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:07:33.237" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="4867" PostId="4241" Score="1" Text="Michael probably means AF-S. The S stands for &quot;Silent Wave&quot;. AF-S lenses have their own AF motor, instead of relying on the camera's motor. AF-S is good (among other reasons) because newer low-end bodies do not have an AF motor, and thus can only autofocus with AF-S lenses. G means that the lens has no aperture ring. It's aperture can only be controlled by DSLRs and some of the newer film SLRs. G is bad because these lenses are about useless with older film bodies. If you don't plan to use these old bodies, then you don't care. AF-S lenses are almost always G, thus the confusion." CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:14:11.010" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="4868" PostId="1684" Text="The version provided by Google also uses wine. There is no current native implementation for Linux yet. And there won't be for a long time..." CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:06:17.570" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="4869" PostId="4221" Text="@Dennis: A 300mm lens is ok for bird photography, but you have to get REALLY close to get a really good &quot;frame filling&quot; shot (the holy grail of bird photography). I have the Canon EF 100-400mm L series lens myself. It lists for $1800, but I managed to get mine for about $1500 online. The Canon EF 400mm L is also a decent lens (I see a LOT of 7D bird photographers use it), and it lists at about $1200. Both lenses are a little slower, but with the higher ISO capabilities of the 7D, it doesn't seem to be a big problem. You might want to ask another question so I can better answer this in detail." CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:48:11.657" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4871" PostId="4244" Text="@Matt, it seems the 'real' reason is that Bibble's raw converter isn't up to the job, as it doesn't correct distortion/CA/vignetting. Lightroom 3.3 RC does a much, much better job of the conversion - unfortunately. $$$ hmmm." CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:22:46.480" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4872" PostId="4243" Text="It should be noted that your first rule is really just a rule of thumb.  It has been claimed by some (http://www.momentcorp.com/review/nikkor17-35mmf28d.html) that the 17-35mm f2.8 nikkor outperforms the primes in that range, or at least the primes available when the lens came out.  I'd say the real distinction is between fixed aperture zoom lenses and variable aperture zoom lenses; fixed aperture should be comparable, or at least in the same league, as primes in the range, while variable aperture zooms are not even close." CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:28:07.587" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4873" PostId="4241" Text="I'm not so sure that G is 'bad'-- with my older lenses, the only thing the aperture ring does on a newer body is slip out of position and give the 'fee' error.  Not having the ring = not having the error." CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:30:17.493" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="4874" PostId="4236" Text="@Rowland, I use both windows and linux ... so anything non mac specific should work. " CreationDate="2010-10-27T21:03:14.250" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="4875" PostId="4259" Text="Locale-specific questions (i.e. Spanish Speaking) are difficult to answer, and we generally try to avoid them. We prefer to have questions and answers that provide value to the community as a whole, rather than only to a small niche. If you could make your question more general, it would be greatly appreciated." CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:15:52.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4876" PostId="4258" Text="I'd strongly recommend renting the sigma first; I've heard too many photogs say it gets too soft at 500mm to be really useable for them. " CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:34:48.527" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="4877" PostId="4256" Text="Keep in mind that the 300/4+1.4x converter will loose about 1 stop worth of aperture, which effectively makes it an f/5.6 lens. The Canon 400mm f/5.6 lens costs about the same as the 300mm ($1200), but you don't need the additional teleconverter, which costs an additional $500. For a cheaper setup, I would recommend the 400/5.6 over a 300/4+1.4x converter. Sadly, I totally agree about budgeting for bigger and ever more powerful lenses...bird photography is terribly expensive! :P" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:47:13.063" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4878" PostId="4258" Text="@chuqui - I've heard that from some, so I posted the comparative link to provide some guidance on decisions for that reason. However, renting is always a good way to try it for yourself, so good advice." CreationDate="2010-10-28T00:07:55.020" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4879" PostId="4241" Text="How does a DSLR camera body have it's own auto focus motor? Auto focus is all in the lens..." CreationDate="2010-10-28T00:43:02.243" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4880" PostId="4260" Text="A 2X teleconverter will indeed produce a 140-400 mm focal length range, but it *doubles* all f-stops, giving a minimum of f/5.6, not f/4." CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:03:52.110" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4881" PostId="4260" Text="@whuber: Sorry, you are correct. I was thinking 1.4x in my head at the time. There are also other inherent problems with the 2x converter, as it seems (according to many reviews and tons of forums) that it makes images rather soft, particularly in the corners." CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:30:29.500" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4882" PostId="4235" Text="Duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/570/what-attributes-should-i-look-for-when-buying-batteries-for-a-flash" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:56:17.993" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4883" PostId="4235" Text="But welcome to photo.SE! It's a good question, just a dupe." CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:56:44.530" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4884" PostId="4260" Text="agreed on not trying the teleconverters on the 100-400. Canon doesn't qualify them iwth that lens, and my experience is the results are rarely good. " CreationDate="2010-10-28T06:53:57.800" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="4885" PostId="4253" Score="1" Text="What would you consider a very wide-angle lens? I find myself using the 18mm part of my kitlens (18-55mm) more and more these days and I'm thinking about buying a 10-20mm or a 12-24mm lens. Would you say that polarizers are not recommended for those types of lenses?" CreationDate="2010-10-28T06:54:09.350" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="4886" PostId="4241" Text="No, I actually did mean AF (as in general autofocus), and G; though @Edgar is correct, the lack of aperture ring certainly is a double-edged sword." CreationDate="2010-10-28T09:05:32.660" UserId="1772" />
  <row Id="4887" PostId="4207" Text="Thanks for that, yeah, its a bit what I expected... " CreationDate="2010-10-28T09:57:09.927" UserId="1754" />
  <row Id="4888" PostId="4262" Score="2" Text="Get a reputable hotel which offers a safe in each room. You can store valuables there while not using them." CreationDate="2010-10-28T10:55:43.037" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4889" PostId="4263" Text="Caution in such places would be advised. When we were last in Mexico, some passports and a digital camera went missing from our 'safe'." CreationDate="2010-10-28T10:56:59.400" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4890" PostId="4253" Score="1" Text="I use a polarizer on my 10-22mm lens, it works just fine although sometimes the effect can be uneven on the sky due to the angle of the sun.  Here's an example: http://www.flickr.com/photos/erica_marshall/2061719540/" CreationDate="2010-10-28T12:24:16.433" UserId="110" />
  <row Id="4891" PostId="4241" Text="@mmr: Never had this problem with my non-G lenses, since they all have a lock to prevent that. I understand that this issue would be a real pain with older lenses lacking the aperture lock. @Nick: Auto focus is all in the lens... only on recent lenses! Old AF (non AF-S) lenses rely on the body's motor. The motor's movement is transmitted to the lens by a kind of &quot;screwdriver&quot; coupling through the mount. See this blog post on [Nikon Autofocus](http://blog.eltonsaulsberry.com/2010/02/27/nikon-autofocus-compatibility/)." CreationDate="2010-10-28T13:00:47.860" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="4892" PostId="4253" Score="1" Text="At 18mm on a cropped sensor body, your angle of view will be about 78 degrees diagonally. If you point it directly 90-degree from the run, you'll have 39-degrees on either side, it should not be so bad. If you point it so that the edge of the frame is at 90-degrees, the other side will be at 12-degrees from the sun so one side will show maximum polarization and the other will show virtually none. It will look quite artificial, as if you changed the sky for a gradient. Erica's example is good, look at the opposite corners of the sky." CreationDate="2010-10-28T13:16:00.850" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4893" PostId="4260" Text="@jrista: No harm done; I just didn't want anyone to get their hopes up prematurely ;-).  I used teleconverters decades ago (to double a 100-200 zoom to 200-400) but after the initial thrill of getting that long reach, the gadgets just sat in a drawer: the darkness of an f/5.6 aperture, the corner softness, and the overall loss of contrast were just too dissatisfying.  Now, I find that the digital &quot;zooming&quot; (i.e., cropping) allowed by these 21 Mp sensors (EOS 550 and D7) can be good enough for decent songbird pictures with a 200 mm lens if you keep the ISO down." CreationDate="2010-10-28T13:23:42.010" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4894" PostId="4263" Text="@Winston: hence the disclaimer. It's worked for me, but that doesn't mean it's assured. It may also depend where in Mexico, I've been sticking to the Mayan Riviera." CreationDate="2010-10-28T13:58:50.687" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4895" PostId="4265" Text="Wow, I'm trusting - on my last trip, I was only hiding a stockpile of coffee in the safe, as they never give enough. Camera gear was being carried with me most of the time." CreationDate="2010-10-28T14:15:30.690" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4896" PostId="4269" Text="Writing the attribution on the back is a great idea, but the photo will be part of a photo book and the attribution may just ruin the look." CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:09:06.867" UserId="1790" />
  <row Id="4897" PostId="911" Text="You can't disable the flash and still have the AF assist lamp on the older 1 series Canons (1DmkI&amp;II, 1Ds mkI&amp;II) which is very annoying..." CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:34:43.057" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4898" PostId="4251" Text="Yep 1.2v cells such as Eneloops will never charge a flash as fast as 1.5v alkalines or 1.6v NiZn cells! " CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:50:49.670" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4900" PostId="4251" Text="@Matt Grum: Actually, alkalines charge flashes slower and drain faster than NiMH in these high-current applications due to their internal resistance and voltage under load of ~1.1 to 1.3V.  While they have around 3000 mAh at low current (200 mA), at they only have around 700 mAh with a 1000 mA load." CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:08:17.573" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="4901" PostId="4259" Text="All right. thanks for the observation." CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:08:17.887" UserId="1782" />
  <row Id="4902" PostId="4261" Text="Good point about where the images go. Small format for publication on the web, or small format print, the Bigma is a great lens with great reach." CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:15:22.993" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4903" PostId="4264" Score="1" Text="Thanks Rowland, I think your suggestions are very well!!!Now I'll try it." CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:15:30.360" UserId="1782" />
  <row Id="4904" PostId="4263" Text="**@John** It's only to be expected in Tijuana ;-)" CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:25:26.927" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="4905" PostId="4274" Text="Yes. The printer, printer profile, and rendering intent are all correct. I have experimented with every setting combination possible, but LR3 still prints out considerably oversaturated, with clipped highlights and blocked shadows. " CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:54:01.433" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4906" PostId="4276" Text="If there are better plugins for doing this, then please feel free to suggest them..." CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:14:40.043" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4907" PostId="4260" Text="One other thing to keep in mind in all of this -- a modern camera body like the 7D gives you the ability to shoot at a higher ISO with acceptable noise, and also has a high pixel density, which means you can crop the image while maintaining good resolution.  That means that spending money on a slower lens and a 7D is a good tradeoff to trying to guy huge, fast glass. There are many ways to get the shot these days" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:17:37.127" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="4908" PostId="4260" Text="@chuqui: Thats basically what I was saying with all the &quot;higher ISO performance&quot; stuff. If you want to get a slower lens, its best to pair it with a camera body that offers better high-ISO noise performance than the 450D. A 7D would be ideal, but a 5D would also work, or even a 550D which has pretty much the same sensor as the 7D." CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:48:31.147" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4909" PostId="4260" Text="@whuber: Regarding 21.1mp sensors...to my knowledge, the only Canon's that have that are the 1Ds III and the 5D II. The 550D has an 18mp sensor, the same as the 60D and 7D. As for cropping, totally agree. That is one of the huge benefits of the Canon 7D. Between its stellar AF, great high-ISO performance, and high resolution sensor, it makes a great birding body. Even if you can't get a frame-filling shot with the lens, you still have plenty of room to crop." CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:49:50.520" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4911" PostId="911" Text="@Matt Grum: That's an odd limitation... Even my old D60 can do that. :P" CreationDate="2010-10-28T18:49:06.703" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="4912" PostId="4277" Text="Attribution is a public statement of authorship. Putting it on the back of a framed photo is not a public attribution. We are all photographers and should be willing and glad to give recognition to the work of other photographers." CreationDate="2010-10-28T18:57:31.327" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4913" PostId="4279" Score="2" Text="Yes, attribution, to have any value, must be public. Placing it in a credits section is a good idea." CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:00:11.327" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4914" PostId="4274" Score="1" Text="It's also important that if the computer is doing the color profile that the printer itself NOT be doing its own color adjustments -- these things do not compound well at all." CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:34:29.643" UserId="1416" />
  <row Id="4915" PostId="4262" Text="FYI, I happily discovered that it can be rather cheap to insure your photography equipment from loss, theft, and damage.  The catch is that the insurance company will replace the item, not hand you cash.  Fair enough." CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:37:24.007" UserId="1416" />
  <row Id="4916" PostId="4280" Text="[Off Topic] That f/1.7 is a very interesting aperture. Wonder why 1.7, and not 1.8 or 1.4. Seems like that would make it difficult to maintain reciprocal nature between shutter and aperture when using very wide apertures." CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:42:43.220" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4917" PostId="4280" Text="@jrista: This looks like my lens: http://blogger-off.com/2010/04/new-second-hand-lens-smc-pentax-m-11-7-50mm/" CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:12:52.310" UserId="1793" />
  <row Id="4918" PostId="1491" Text="+1 very valueable information for me (i also keep an eye on the G11/G12/canon case combination - my next trip will btw also be to the Red Sea)" CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:20:19.443" UserId="1800" />
  <row Id="4919" PostId="4280" Score="1" Text="@jrista f/1.7 is a half stop between f/1.4 and f/2. If your shutter speeds are in half-stop increments, then it should be easy." CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:40:03.460" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="4920" PostId="4287" Score="1" Text="Spot on. One other important technical reason for shutter speed: the flash sync speed of your camera. " CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:43:24.910" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="4921" PostId="4287" Score="2" Text="Also, there's one other factor to play with: neutral density filters to reduce exposure. This can be a factor if you need a wide aperture plus flash sync in a bright (outdoors) environment. ISO can't always go low enough to compensate." CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:45:10.883" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="4922" PostId="4284" Text="Not sure if you saw this question as well? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4032/any-good-alternatives-to-lightroom-for-pc-users" CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:55:27.607" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4923" PostId="4288" Text="@jrista Have you read Ansel Adams' book &quot;The Print&quot;?  It picks up at the point after the picture has been taken.  Taking it as given that you did not screw up the original composition and that you exposed correctly, he argues that the process of converting the exposed film (read &quot;RAW file&quot; nowadays) to a final image (&quot;fine print&quot;) is where the artistic expression lies.  I find this book's advice, although technically outmoded, is still relevant and inspiring for digital photography." CreationDate="2010-10-28T21:07:56.153" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4924" PostId="4287" Text="yep and there are also means to extend the working shutter range (tripods etc.) " CreationDate="2010-10-28T21:39:57.880" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4925" PostId="4288" Score="1" Text="I disagree with Ansel on this point. Artistic expression is involved in the whole process, not just after the film is exposed. Composition and lighting is something you can only control before the shutter is snapped, not after, and they are critical elements of artistic expression. You can change the image you composed in minor ways (i.e. color vs. b&amp;w, duo-tone, high contrast vs. low contrast), but that is only a part of artistic expression, not all of it." CreationDate="2010-10-28T21:43:09.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4926" PostId="4280" Text="@Evan: Ah, its a half stop. I know the full stop and 1/3rd stop scale pretty well, but I don't really use half-stop much, and I have never used it below f/2.8, so I was confused by 1.7. Thanks for the clarification." CreationDate="2010-10-28T21:53:13.757" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4927" PostId="4293" Score="1" Text="Hi John, and welcome. I hope you enjoy your time here. :) One of the goals with stackeexchange sits is to provide concrete information that is hosted here. While we don't have any problem linking other sites, we do ask that any key, relevant information be quoted here, in case the linked site goes offline or permanently disappears. In the case of a video, any key steps or words from the narrator should be quoted. Thanks! :)" CreationDate="2010-10-28T22:22:21.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4928" PostId="4236" Text="Where are your pictures stored and where are you likely to need the conversion? Windows or Linux? That would make some slight difference. Are you ok with deleting all the existing pictures before creating new ones? Should it be creating a new folder structure as it duplicates?" CreationDate="2010-10-28T22:58:40.590" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4929" PostId="4292" Text="Is this focussed right? It's hard to compare sharpness with incorrect focus." CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:15:06.870" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4930" PostId="4236" Text="@drchenstern ... I would like to avoid double processing a file " CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:15:32.377" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="4931" PostId="4298" Score="3" Text="Best place in the US for clear skies: Great Basin National Park in eastern Nevada. No cities for hundreds of miles and very little pollution. http://cleardarksky.com/c/GrtBsnNPkNVkey.html?1" CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:17:37.833" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="4932" PostId="4300" Text="So are long exposures necessary? I realize that I'm just wanting to go back and capture something that I've already idolized (but boy is it worth it) but I think it's pretty well observed already that I don't know what I need for this. Will I need to use motorized equipment for something like this, or only for &quot;pro photography&quot; type shots?" CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:17:55.533" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4933" PostId="4299" Text="Thank you so much for the info! I'm definitely going to look into it." CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:18:16.737" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4934" PostId="4300" Score="1" Text="High ISO introduces substantially more noise, so I would only recommend that if you don't have a means of keeping your camera on track with the stars and so must shorten the shutter speed." CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:20:20.383" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4935" PostId="4300" Score="2" Text="I was just thinking to try it with a tripod mount and a timer at first, but I'm kinda new at this stuff so figured half the fun was in the experimenting `:D`" CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:21:38.713" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4936" PostId="4236" Text="@Sam Saffron ~ Is that only because of the desire to reduce time to process? I'm thinking that using some sort of linux based system will work out better in the long run because of the command-line image manipulation activities that are already written for Linux systems." CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:23:43.127" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4937" PostId="4238" Text="@Sam Saffron ~ Any reason for a ruby script? Will this be hosted on a website? This is the sort of thing best run through cron I would think..." CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:28:00.080" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4938" PostId="4300" Text="@drachenstern: yep, experimentation is definitely half the fun!" CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:05:28.677" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4939" PostId="4298" Text="Also, you seem new here. Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:13:11.503" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4940" PostId="4277" Score="1" Text="@labnut, attribution should be consistent with other artwork in the same context; in a private home, the various pieces are typically not going to have captions or tags giving attribution. One asks the homeowner &quot;who made this art&quot; and they tell you; that's the attribution. Putting on the back is probably a good reminder." CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:16:07.520" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4941" PostId="4298" Text="Just added the astrophotography tag for you. " CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:16:52.877" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4942" PostId="4269" Score="2" Text="@MCS, you can often put photo credits in tiny text along the side of the photo and it's subtle enough that it doesn't ruin the look. (Or, as others have suggested, put all the credits in the back.)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:18:52.477" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="4943" PostId="4297" Text="What would you say about performance? On my 4GB 2.53GHz MBP it gets pretty bogged down in Lightroom 3 with 18mb RAWs." CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:51:03.790" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4944" PostId="4263" Text="I think I better bring all my expensive stuff out... so I guess passport is important too. okay noted..." CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:57:01.947" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="4945" PostId="4298" Text="@Reid Priedhorsky ~ I am, thanks for noticing. @John Cavan ~ thanks, I wasn't aware that existed. Was just looking over the site and thought this might be a good question to extend the site. `:D`" CreationDate="2010-10-29T01:16:34.250" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4946" PostId="4297" Score="1" Text="Performance wise I have to hand it to Aperture, the UI is more responsive, scrolling is smoother, thumbs are generated faster on import and previews are generated faster.  Also transitioning from browsing to editing is less jarring because Aperture just changes the toolbar on the left instead of multiple UI elements switching (LR3).  However, I let Aperture use its special hoopdy 'Library', if you manage the file locations manually then its a little slower.  MacPro 2xQuad 2.8Ghz, 12GB Ram, OS on SSD &amp; library on RAID1." CreationDate="2010-10-29T01:45:27.310" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="4947" PostId="4280" Score="1" Text="@jrista Older 35 mm cameras (SLRs and rangefinders) typically came with primes in the 47-55 mm focal length range with maximum apertures a little less than f/2; f/1.9, f/1.8, and f/1.7 were all common.  (For a premium you could get them in the f/1.2 - f/1.4 range too, of course, but that wasn't standard.)  My first one, a Konica rangefinder, had a max of f/1.9.  It also had detents at f/2 and up as usual in half-stop increments.  I always figured that although f/1.9 wasn't really any different from f/2--it's 1/7 of a stop wider--it helped sell cameras ;-)." CreationDate="2010-10-29T01:55:20.840" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="4948" PostId="4292" Text="This is focused right, focusing was done on a 1D series body with all AF points enabled and shots were taken only after most of the 45 points lit up.  We took 5 photographs of each and picked the sharpest one.  One expects a prime lens to always be sharper than a zoom wide open but this was considerably sharper." CreationDate="2010-10-29T01:59:57.853" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="4949" PostId="3819" Score="2" Text="I think if the improvement is noticeable, you will notice it :-P" CreationDate="2010-10-29T02:41:13.073" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4950" PostId="3822" Text="I don't see the point in suggesting the MIII over a 7D since it's unlikely the 5D will change from it's current target market. The 7D is for sports and quick motion, the 5D is for weddings, landscape etc." CreationDate="2010-10-29T02:46:08.927" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="4951" PostId="4280" Text="@whuber: Psychology sucks. ;P" CreationDate="2010-10-29T02:55:45.290" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4952" PostId="4262" Text="Hi Digital Dude, looks like you're new to the site... welcome!" CreationDate="2010-10-29T03:14:28.053" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="4953" PostId="3822" Text="You can shoot sport and quick motion fine with a 5DMII. And before that with other cameras not even remotely as advanced as the 7D. It's not just technology here. It's not unlike people wanting a full-frame 5DMII but not having the money for it: you can get a 5D for $900. It's still a 5D, a fantastic camera; let's keep things in perspective..." CreationDate="2010-10-29T03:16:22.227" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="4954" PostId="4309" Text="Corollary: If you're in a place where you can't trust the hotel, you can trust parking attendants either or anything left in a car can disappear faster than the car itself." CreationDate="2010-10-29T04:56:14.423" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4955" PostId="4309" Text="@Itai: Indeed. That kind of falls under &quot;There is zero reason to trust **anyone** with your equipment...&quot;. " CreationDate="2010-10-29T05:11:33.310" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4956" PostId="4277" Score="1" Text="@Reid Priedhorsky: This is an important debate. Defn: attribution - 'the act of establishing a particular person as the creator of a work of art'. Implicit in this definition is that it must be public. A private, hidden attribution has no meaning as it 'establishes' nothing. Not only that, the absence of a visible attribution is an implicit claim that the work is one's own. Finally an important reason for attribution is to give recognition to the author. A hidden attribution can hardly count as recognition." CreationDate="2010-10-29T06:48:51.417" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4957" PostId="4111" Text="Thanks for the detailed response, but what I'm trying to do at the moment is shoot at the floor from a fixed position does the advice still apply in that scenario?" CreationDate="2010-10-29T06:53:50.247" UserId="1662" />
  <row Id="4958" PostId="4277" Score="1" Text="And to the preceding I must add my 'fairness' argument that I mentioned before. As photographers we should expect each other to behave to one another in a spirit of fairness. This is a values argument with utilitarian value since such values help to create and bind together a community of like minded people to their common benefit." CreationDate="2010-10-29T06:57:21.340" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4959" PostId="4289" Text="Thanks for the info on the plugin. I saw the question about Picasa VS Lightroom, and I actually know quite well what are their differences." CreationDate="2010-10-29T07:10:03.967" UserId="527" />
  <row Id="4960" PostId="4284" Text="Thanks for the link, I'll have a look. But it seems that there's nothing like what I'm looking for :(..." CreationDate="2010-10-29T07:12:12.857" UserId="527" />
  <row Id="4961" PostId="4318" Text="+1 for 50mm/1,8 II" CreationDate="2010-10-29T07:19:39.670" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="4962" PostId="4318" Score="2" Text="I'd go for the Canon 28-135mm f3.5-f/5.6 IS USM over the 18-135, as that lens has served me proud (I've not used the 18-135 to compare though)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T07:32:26.957" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4963" PostId="4320" Score="1" Text="Great combo, but unlikely to be able to get those for £500 ($750) " CreationDate="2010-10-29T07:46:59.783" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4964" PostId="4318" Text="The Canon 28-135mm f3.5-f/5.6 IS USM is a good lens, but on a 550D it is not wide enough to be used as an all-round in my opinion." CreationDate="2010-10-29T08:04:48.567" UserId="1849" />
  <row Id="4965" PostId="4316" Score="1" Text="You want both good and bad advice? I'd settle for just good advice :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T08:18:23.283" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="4967" PostId="4316" Text="Just to clarify, does &quot;500 quid&quot; mean £500?" CreationDate="2010-10-29T11:49:30.790" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4968" PostId="4276" Text="For reference, Alamy don't currently have plans to do their own plugin: http://twitter.com/#!/AlamyContribs/status/29080745112" CreationDate="2010-10-29T12:19:19.140" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="4970" PostId="4320" Text="Yes, quite true." CreationDate="2010-10-29T12:45:24.230" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="4971" PostId="4320" Text="Not sure there even is a 17-70 2.8. The sigma is 2.8-3.5. To get 2.8 you'd have to go 17-50 (Tamron/Sigma) or 17-55 (Canon)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T13:16:55.767" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="4972" PostId="4316" Score="4" Text="No. 500 quid means a monkey :-) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_%28disambiguation%29" CreationDate="2010-10-29T13:41:47.400" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4973" PostId="4316" Score="1" Text="@chills42 - yes, quid = Pounds Stirling&#xA;@Roddy - LOL :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T13:47:44.687" UserId="440" />
  <row Id="4974" PostId="4313" Text="Wow. Thank you. See, this is why we need SE sites, and I am in a bit of awe of what you guys know about this stuff. Trust me I'll be reading through here from time to time. Thanks and thanks and thanks again @jrista. Good info." CreationDate="2010-10-29T13:56:10.303" UserId="1837" />
  <row Id="4975" PostId="4335" Text="Oh, so I guess this is where this 1.6 ratio comes around. I've been playing with Canon 50mm f/1.8 and while it was great for taking portrait (or &quot;half-body&quot;) photos, I couldn't get the shallow DoF I wanted on a full body shot. Will 50mm f/1.4 make a difference? I'm fine with a prime." CreationDate="2010-10-29T14:33:52.797" UserId="1860" />
  <row Id="4976" PostId="4338" Score="3" Text="+1 nice observation on the focusing point! I didn't know about that technique :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:02:04.100" UserId="1862" />
  <row Id="4977" PostId="4321" Text="What does it usually cost to rent these lenses for a couple days?" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:19:12.417" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4978" PostId="4321" Score="2" Text="You can get them from borrowlenses.com for $40/3 days (f1.2) $16/3 days (f1.4)." CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:24:40.773" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="4979" PostId="4335" Text="The wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field. However, depth of field is impacted by sensor size (smaller sensors have greater depth), so it will be more challenging to achieve the same depth of field that he is getting with the full frame camera." CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:43:49.853" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="4980" PostId="4318" Text="I recently bought the 28-135 and it is an excellent lens. I have to switch to my 18-55 kit lens to get a wider angle though." CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:52:59.693" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="4981" PostId="4319" Text="Excelent Rafal! thks a lot!" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:08:27.067" UserId="1782" />
  <row Id="4982" PostId="302" Score="1" Text="PicasaWeb for sure. I do use Flikr too but I won't put my family and friends through that. With Picasa you can share very easily and arrange things however you want without paying. Flikr on the other hand makes a mess of your stuff and gives you barely any control unless you pay them." CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:34:10.140" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="4983" PostId="4317" Text="@Toomanyairmiles, Thank you very much for your input.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:34:21.210" UserId="1782" />
  <row Id="4984" PostId="4314" Text="You could check out the zeiss 50mm too.  It being sharper or not seems to depend on how hip you are but one thing is for sure, the photos shot with it look different, something about the contrast." CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:41:58.290" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="4985" PostId="4340" Text="Hmm... according to this site, if I use 85mm f/1.8 I will get Depth of field 0.28 ft (so it's shallower than the 5d mk2 example above). So the difference will be, that using 85mm on 550d will result in wider perspective? If so, maybe this is the lens I should start practicing with (I think that the perspective is not that important in that case)?" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:42:34.467" UserId="1860" />
  <row Id="4986" PostId="4342" Text="This is great....thanks very much for your recommendation!  I'll take a look at it later today." CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:52:08.713" />
  <row Id="4987" PostId="4340" Score="2" Text="No, an 85mm on a 550 will produce a narrower perspective, it's kind of like a 1.6x zoom." CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:53:12.260" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4988" PostId="4340" Text="So on full-frame camera the equivalent of 85mm would be 135mm? I found this random photo on flickr taken with full-frame Sony DSLR. http://www.flickr.com/photos/migajiro/4204378232/. Is it something I can expect using 85mm f/1.8 on Canon 550d? " CreationDate="2010-10-29T17:10:21.373" UserId="1860" />
  <row Id="4989" PostId="4340" Score="1" Text="Seems reasonable, yeah. You just have to keep in mind that in order to frame the picture the same you'll have to be a little farther away, and that extra distance increases the depth of field.  In the end you really aren't going to go wrong with any of the options here." CreationDate="2010-10-29T17:20:53.933" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="4990" PostId="4314" Text="Keep an eye on [this question about third-party lens quality](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4303/nikkor-vs-tamron-sigma-lenses) if you're thinking about third party lenses." CreationDate="2010-10-29T18:53:34.653" UserId="90" />
  <row Id="4991" PostId="4345" Text="Agree with the exception of the 135 - that f/2 glass isn't light at all." CreationDate="2010-10-29T19:01:12.200" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="4992" PostId="4290" Text="I did replace my battery and my meter seemed to work; I'll have to see how they come out once I get them developed, though. Your cheat sheet matches with what I saw w/ my meter, though... At f/1.7, 400 ISO, I was able to manage at 1/60 in the better lit areas (my porch), and 1/30 in the poorer lit areas." CreationDate="2010-10-29T19:05:25.370" UserId="1793" />
  <row Id="4993" PostId="4345" Text="The 135L and the 70-200/4L IS are both in the 750g region; I will say though, the zoom offers greater framing versatility. I suggested the 135L primarily because I prefer shooting primes." CreationDate="2010-10-29T19:26:19.843" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="4994" PostId="1942" Text="I think amazon associate tags are frowned upon here..." CreationDate="2010-10-29T19:28:58.793" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="4995" PostId="4314" Text="@Shizam: Does the Zeiss 50mm come in a Canon mount? Got any links to good reviews?" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:02:56.500" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4996" PostId="4314" Text="@Drew: Thanks, useful information. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:03:53.660" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4997" PostId="4313" Text="@drachenstern: Glad to be of service. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:07:45.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="4998" PostId="4314" Text="It does indeed come in a Canon mount, there are lots of off the cuff reviews of the lens but I'm having trouble finding a nice in-depth with side-by-sides." CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:12:29.423" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="4999" PostId="1754" Text="Yea, the 40D is a great camera, the jump from 30D to 40D is much larger than from 20D-30D or 40D to 50D w/regards to image quality (ISO etc) so its a good pick for price/value." CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:27:20.013" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5000" PostId="4370" Text="I'm sorry, I have to downvote this. I wouldn't be very happy with 28-300 as my only lens on an APS-C camera. (Not to mention taking 50-500mm f/4-6.3 Sigma monster on a trek.)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:52:16.867" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5001" PostId="4340" Score="2" Text="I don't think Darius is after the shallow depth of field, but rather after the subject isolation provided by the background blur, which is not quite the same! The background blurring ability of a lens depends essentially on it's **physical** aperture, while the depth of field depends on the f-number. The 85/1.2 has an aperture of 71 mm, which is hard to match with any shorter lens (a 50 mm f/0.7 would do). So he can either use the same 85/1.2 from a larger distance, by a full frame camera or settle for the subtler background blur of a 50 mm." CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:00:21.283" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5002" PostId="4370" Text="@che: I wasn't particularly recommending them, they are monsters. But they are the two lenses that cover the full focal range in a single lens, which was what was asked for. (Weight was not mentioned as a con.) It was just one option out of several, its up to the OP to decide what might work for him. The tough part is getting a single lens that can handle landscapes (wide) as well as wildlife (telephoto). I would say 200mm is about as &quot;short&quot; as you could go to get decent wildlife shots, and you would have to be pretty close. " CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:03:16.113" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5003" PostId="4372" Text="Thanks for posting your pics - nice work! Once again I realize that my biggest problem is that I never go anywhere interesting :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:08:45.980" />
  <row Id="5004" PostId="4319" Text="You are welcome, enjoy! :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:13:44.673" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5005" PostId="4348" Text="Do you know what the cost difference between the Zeiss 50/1.4 and the Canon 50/1.4 is?" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:24:12.343" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5006" PostId="4370" Text="weight is most certainly a con, hence the &quot;I'm trying to travel light&quot;, but thanks for the input anyway" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:31:45.447" UserId="1749" />
  <row Id="5007" PostId="4370" Text="@ninesided: Read the rest of my answer. There are some other options that don't have the weight problem." CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:33:52.113" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5008" PostId="4370" Score="2" Text="@jrista: The main issue I have with your single-lens recommendations is the focal length. 28mm on APC-S makes 44mm equivalent, which isn't really a wide angle. So the only lenses which cover full focal range are those 18-to-somethings, so what you're recommending would really be the best thing only if OP wanted to focus on the wildlife exclusively." CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:00:06.323" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5009" PostId="4375" Score="2" Text="Where are you that celebrates Guy Fawkes *and* Thanksgiving? :)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:22:12.267" />
  <row Id="5010" PostId="4375" Text="@Jon I could say by a US airbase in the UK ;) Although that said, people haven't figured that it isn't Guy Fawkes' Night yet, and have already started on the fireworks" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:24:43.107" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5011" PostId="4375" Score="1" Text="@Rowland - Where I live, The Fourth of July lasts from June 1 - Aug 31." CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:26:39.690" />
  <row Id="5012" PostId="4370" Text="@che: Very true, its difficult to get wide angles on an APS-C body. I did recommend the 18-200mm EF-S lens, its in the last paragraph. The only reason I mentioned teh 28-300 and 50-500 was they were the only lenses that really covered the &quot;wide&quot; to &quot;supertelephoto&quot; range, that would do well for landscape, portrait, and wildlife photography in a single lens. At 200mm, you still have to get pretty close to get a decent wildlife shot. It should also be noted that you can get some pretty amazing landscape shots with a telephoto. A LOT of my landscapes are done with my 100-400mm." CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:29:13.887" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5013" PostId="4370" Text="@jrista: As I'm thinking about it, telephotos are good for landscapes, so 70-200 *would* cover all of those three things OP asked for. Which brings the question whether this is something he actually wants :-)" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:35:21.187" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5015" PostId="4370" Text="Yeah. I don't really know what the OP needs specifically. I was just spitting out the options that are. I myself would use a combination of lenses. Probably the 18-200 and the 300 prime would be my choice, I think they cover the best range for a decent price." CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:41:14.760" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5016" PostId="4348" Text="Last I checked, the Canon is about 350 USD, and the Zeiss around 700 USD. The difference is smaller where I live though." CreationDate="2010-10-29T23:32:01.380" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5017" PostId="4381" Text="Thanks for the info. " CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:01:23.130" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5018" PostId="4323" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the info. The Sigma definitely looks better than the Canon for a 1.4 aperture. Its on my list of serious consideration now. I recently asked a question focus shift on Zeiss lenses. Guess its the same problem with the Canon 50/1.2. I find that to be a fairly annoying problem, and would definitely affect close-up photography. Any idea how focus shift would be affected by extension tubes? Worse? Also, have you ever used a Zeiss 50mm manual lens? " CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:23:59.017" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5019" PostId="4337" Text="Thanks for the concise answer. :) The weight of the 1.4 is definitely a bonus, I didn't realize the 1.2 was twice the weight. I won't really be using flash for the bulk of the work I need this for, as I'll be imaging the night sky over 30-45 second exposures. I also won't really be using AF, as you pretty much have to set focus to infinity, and using live view fully zoomed, tweak focus until it is sharp. Not sure that 1/2 of an extra stop is really worth the extra cost of the 1.2. That boils it down to sharpness...any insight into how relatively sharp the two lenses in low light?" CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:30:57.027" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5020" PostId="4383" Text="17-40 f/4L is a bit slower and &quot;shorter&quot; than 17-55 f/2.8, but it might make sense if you plan on going full-frame some time in the future." CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:31:39.083" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5021" PostId="4378" Text="+1 for manual focus on infinity, that helps a lot" CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:33:54.497" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5022" PostId="4348" Text="Thanks. Double the cost, but the Zeiss is a full manual lens, which might be better for what I'll be using it for. In the pitch black of night, AF doesn't work, so I never use it for astrophotography. And for close-up work, I prefer to manual focus as well. The focus shift of the Zeiss is the one thing I don't like about it, and for close-up work, it might be a problem." CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:35:04.460" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5023" PostId="4348" Text="I think it' just about perfect for astrophotography, at infinity it is a great lens. Closer up, it will be a pain in the butt, but I'm sure you can get used to the focus shift pretty quickly. Stopped down to f/2.8 it's not an issue at all in my experience.&#xA;&#xA;This one for eg was taken at f/2.8: http://www.flickr.com/photos/callan_tham/5117753860/" CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:50:49.997" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5024" PostId="4345" Text="I agree about the 17-55mm F/2.8, that would be my first choice too. In case you find this too short, it might be worth it to consider the Tokina 16.5-135mm which lets you reach long without losing on the wide-end." CreationDate="2010-10-30T01:41:03.210" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5025" PostId="4370" Text="Whats with all the down-votes? Are people only reading the first half of my answer, and leaving it at that? Read the whole thing before you leave a down vote..." CreationDate="2010-10-30T01:54:30.493" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5026" PostId="4387" Text="I was hoping someone more familiar with it could guide on reseting. My original assumption of similarity to Bridge is a little off, to say the least. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:14:58.073" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5027" PostId="4384" Text="I deleted my post, the reason is the same, but jrista has the guide to how to clear the changes that I couldn't provide." CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:15:50.910" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5028" PostId="4387" Text="Yeah, when I first started learning Lightroom, it was a little confusing. Now though, I doubt I could even use Bridge, as I am so used to LR it has become second nature. If you don't have LR, I recommend that you at least try out the trial. It is such a fantastic program. :D" CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:18:59.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5029" PostId="4387" Text="That was extremely helpful.  I really appreciate all of the detail!  The way in which Lightroom manages the folders and catalogs is a bit awkward and hard to get used to but I'm sure with time, it will become second nature.  Thanks again!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:41:05.477" UserId="1899" />
  <row Id="5030" PostId="4387" Text="@jrista; I may give it a whirl. I've been using Photoshop since 4.0 (pre-CS) that it's become a tried and true companion for me." CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:56:39.660" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5031" PostId="4387" Text="@Sarah: If his answer does the trick for you, make sure that you accept it. It's part of the whole Stack Exchange concept to do that." CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:58:37.693" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5032" PostId="4337" Score="3" Text="Here I'll fall back to Ken Rockwell: &quot;If sharpness at infinity at f/1.4 is critical to you, the 50mm f/1.2 L is far superior, and priced accordingly.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-10-30T03:56:02.463" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5033" PostId="2334" Text="Another advantage of rangefinders is they're very easy to manual focus in any lighting condition since you get very obvious visual feedback as to weather it's in focus or not." CreationDate="2010-10-30T05:22:52.027" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5034" PostId="4357" Score="1" Text="Another vote for the S90/S95 from me. I have the S90, and I love it. You definitely aren't going to get the same look as a good SLR, but if portability is your primary concern, it's the camera for you. CHDK runs on it, but doesn't offer much, since it already has RAW and full manual controls." CreationDate="2010-10-30T05:39:09.470" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="5035" PostId="4337" Text="@Shizam: Thanks! Its always nice to know there is someone more experienced to fall back on. :D" CreationDate="2010-10-30T05:57:10.237" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5036" PostId="4024" Score="1" Text="We have had a few CHDK questions in the past, and they are well accepted here. Feel free to ask them in the future, as we most certainly cover hardware and firmware here as well as &quot;photography&quot;." CreationDate="2010-10-30T05:59:20.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5037" PostId="4387" Text="@Sarah: Glad you found it helpful. :) Lightroom is pretty disconcerting at first. I didn't even like it much for about a month or so. I finally sat down with it one day and explored every option and tool, worked a bunch of photos, and learned how to use it. Once you understand its design, its workflow, and how it organizes its catalog and your images, it is a pretty fantastic tool. I do highly recommend you get to learn how it manages files. Its catalog, where it stores original images, where it stores presets, and how it stores your edited images." CreationDate="2010-10-30T06:02:38.963" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5038" PostId="4323" Text="Regarding the 5D, I am actually waiting for the 5D Mark III. I've been on the brink of buying a 5D II a few times, but with the Mark III just around the corner, I could never bring myself to actually purchase it. I do believe the orig. 5D is indeed a stellar body, I've seen some amazing photos from it, but I love to blow my photos up to HUGE size with lots of detail...so image resolution counts. The 5D III will be bought regardless. I am seriously considering the Sigma 50mm now, as in comparison with the Canon 50/1.4, it seems to perform very well. Thanks for the tip!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T06:10:23.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5039" PostId="4388" Text="Excellent article." CreationDate="2010-10-30T06:16:44.860" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="5040" PostId="4375" Score="1" Text="They do fireworks displays at airforce bases?! I would have thought would be a bad idea :)" CreationDate="2010-10-30T10:19:40.540" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5041" PostId="4412" Score="1" Text="true, the correct statement is *the field of view of an 85mm lens on a 35mm camera is about the same as the field of view of a 50mm lens on a 22mm camera* but it's a bit of a mouthful!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T11:20:32.827" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5042" PostId="4335" Score="1" Text="@john true, however looking at the EXIF he's suing f/2 - f/3.5 which you can just about replicate with a 50 f/1.4 as the crop is equivalent to about 1.3 stops in terms of DOF." CreationDate="2010-10-30T11:22:42.433" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5043" PostId="4340" Text="@edgar Very true, but the ogirinal photographer is not shooting wide open with the 85 f/1.2 (he's shooting in the f/2 - f/3 region mostly) so the physcial aperture to match is more like 40mm" CreationDate="2010-10-30T11:24:32.573" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5044" PostId="4389" Score="3" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1050/how-many-stops-can-a-digital-camera-capture" CreationDate="2010-10-30T11:49:07.600" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="5045" PostId="549" Text="Would love to know why this attracted an anonymous downvote, as it is a solution that has worked for me in the past." CreationDate="2010-10-30T14:46:29.227" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5047" PostId="4387" Text="@All: I think the hardest adjustment to make in LR is to get away from the notion of organizing your photos and folders. Adobe has followed Google and Apple's paradigm of keywords and fast searches, which makes organization antiquated. Just dump your photos into a folder, tag'em, and have fun. No more mucking about with layers and layers of folders and subfolders, import scripts and the like." CreationDate="2010-10-30T15:50:45.893" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5048" PostId="4410" Score="3" Text="I'm not sure its just about lines and perspective. In landscape/nature, its more about focus plane (tilt). For example, you could tilt up just a tad to get foreground in clear focus without losing your distant focus (blurry foreground happens a lot.) There are also close-up or closer focal plane options where having more freedom with the focal plane allows greater creativity. I understand why large format view cameras (used *heavily* in pro landscape photography) have these types of movements...I am jot sure if a TS lens for a full-frame digital offers the same capabilities that justify cost." CreationDate="2010-10-30T16:34:43.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5050" PostId="4410" Score="1" Text="@jrista +++. Tilt shift lenses are very helpful in landscape for the ability to tilt the plane of focus so everything from your feet to the mountains are in focus even at wide apertures." CreationDate="2010-10-30T17:13:35.793" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5051" PostId="541" Text="+1 for mail. You just have to find SD cards on the road." CreationDate="2010-10-30T17:33:54.703" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="5052" PostId="552" Score="1" Text="While this device is good, I do not recommend using these things as a reliable backup while travelling. I know some people who use 2 or 3 to improve their odds though. The issue is that any such hard-drive-based device is prone to failure and any fall or impact can make the data inaccessible. Small hard drives have problems working at altitude as well, above 10,000' you're outside of the operating spec for small hard drives." CreationDate="2010-10-30T17:41:21.230" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5053" PostId="541" Score="1" Text="I wish someone made a card-copying device! For now, the easiest is to buy 2 cheap readers (they go for less than $10) or 1 such reader and your camera's cable. In most internet cafes, machines have USB and you can do a card-to-card copy using your own devices or between the camera and the reader." CreationDate="2010-10-30T17:44:20.713" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5054" PostId="947" Score="1" Text="Whats with the down vote? " CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:02:12.513" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5055" PostId="4379" Text="We seem to have a rogue down-voter in our midst. If you down-vote, please tell the Answerer why. I gave this a +1, as I think the Tamron 18-270 is a great option. It offers a very wide focal range that should allow both wide-angle landscape and telephoto wildlife shots." CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:04:32.497" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5056" PostId="4413" Text="I am a bit wary of the accuracy of DXO-Mark. It says my Canon 450D has 10.8 EVs worth of dynamic range. I know for a fact that is most definitely NOT the case. With ETTR and some very meticulous manual adjustments to aperture, shutter, and ISO, I can MAYBE get 9 stops worth of real-world dynamic range, but normally I get about 7-8 stops. Sometimes I think these scientific measurements mislead potential buyers, as real-world performance in a photograph as observed by the human eye rarely approaches what can be scientifically measured with non-human algorithms and devices." CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:13:26.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5058" PostId="4389" Text="As Karel pointed out, this is a duplicate of a previous question. Barring significant objection, I will either close this thread as a duplicate, or merge it with the thread linked by Karel, as the two are quite literally duplicates." CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:19:21.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5059" PostId="4391" Text="+1, plus one! Finally! Someone has offered up a reasonable real-world estimate for camera dynamic range. The average DSLR has about 5-9 stops of real-world performance. :D" CreationDate="2010-10-30T18:20:44.583" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5060" PostId="4379" Text="I'd love to hear from people who have used this lens.  The range is best-in-class.  I tried one briefly at a local camera shop, and the zoom mechanism didn't impress me too much, but for traveling light, this sounds like a tempting choice.  This lens obviously isn't going to compare to a backpack full of L glass, but when you're already carrying 30-40 lbs of camping equipment, food, and water, I think you have to consider the reality that you're not looking at comparing better glass to marginal glass, you're looking at comparing marginal glass to no glass." CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:10:38.063" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="5061" PostId="4414" Score="1" Text="Excellent advice to have a look at Flickr!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:14:40.200" UserId="1749" />
  <row Id="5062" PostId="550" Text="If you can get your own machine online, you can use Picasa for Linux and sync your albums to Picasaweb - then you don't have to worry about manual uploads." CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:15:26.997" UserId="172" />
  <row Id="5063" PostId="4389" Score="1" Text="I don't think it's a duplicate. The other question asks about DR in general; this one asks specifically for a comparison between film SLR, DSLR, and digital P&amp;S." CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:23:55.850" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5064" PostId="4387" Text="@Alan: Exactly! With lightroom's organization and searching tools, it works best if you import all of your photos into a single folder (or perhaps a few folders in a flat structure.) " CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:36:00.883" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5065" PostId="4389" Text="@Reid: I think the difference is minimal at best. I also think it would be nice to have a go-to thread for DR questions, rather than having them be answered individually each time the question crops up. Digital in relation to film, human eye, computer screen, etc. were all asked in the original question. That covers this one as well." CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:38:58.290" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5066" PostId="4389" Text="@Reid Both are comparing Film &amp; the Human eye to digital though?" CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:42:17.630" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5067" PostId="574" Text="You earned my upvote pretty quick, but if there was any doubt, &quot;And to send home, select up to 5 pictures of each escapade and post them on Flickr. Selection is key.&quot; won it." CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:07:03.670" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5068" PostId="4410" Text="@Shizam: Yeah, thats what I'd read when learning about large format view cameras. Have you used a TS lens on a DSLR? Any insight?" CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:07:14.857" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5069" PostId="533" Text="There are lots of tools for grabbing your full images off of Flickr such as: http://www.malarkeysoftware.com/projects_PhotoGrabbr.html " CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:09:46.373" UserId="172" />
  <row Id="5070" PostId="4410" Text="@Matt: Regarding a DIY TS lens...what about image circle size? You need a larger image circle to accomodate the extra movement, and keep the sensor inside the circle. I can't tell exactly how that works from the article you linked. With the TS-E 17mm, the image circle is something like 62mm in size, which is quite a bit larger than 43.7mm of a normal image circle." CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:11:21.963" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5071" PostId="4419" Text="Most of the time, I'm around East Anglia in the UK - However, it would be useful to identify the *techniques* for identifying good locations for when I'm travelling..." CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:30:27.150" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5072" PostId="4419" Text="@Rowland Oh I am sorry, I misunderstood your question. Now that I reread it, it is clear. Sorry about that." CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:31:20.550" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5073" PostId="4419" Text="Not at all, In reality, I'm interested in what's near me; but I doubt many others would be; I wanted to keep it general to keep it on topic -- kinda like your answer :)" CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:32:53.983" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5074" PostId="4389" Text="Ok, although I search before posting, I couldn't find the other question. It's up to you (moderators) whether to merge or not." CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:45:24.160" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="5075" PostId="4421" Score="1" Text="When I was in Sicily last, I noticed that the postcards were photoshoped in a manner that loosely resembled the scene, but wasn't possible to be shot as presented; a bit naughty, but I still bought them..." CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:57:47.457" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5076" PostId="4419" Text="Well, you could look at the local Flickr groups for wherever you happened to be traveling as well, no?" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:01:53.743" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5077" PostId="4389" Text="I think they're close but not dupes. One is: compare and contrast these technologies. The other: what is DR in a digital context. I think merging this question into the other would destroy a significant subtlety." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:03:58.393" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5079" PostId="4425" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:07:53.963" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5080" PostId="4425" Text="WOW! I was going to ask this EXACT QUESTION! hehe +1!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:09:56.837" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5081" PostId="4419" Text="@Reid hehe! I guess that works!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:10:39.067" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5082" PostId="4420" Text="@Itai, actually this was very useful advice, thank you for this perspective which I definitely overlooked. " CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:12:14.790" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5083" PostId="4423" Text="While it now seems obvious, somehow I didn't look on Ebay, I guess my normal inclination is to avoid Ebay :/ Thanks for your answer." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:13:02.637" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5084" PostId="4427" Text="The second part of your answer was what I expected the answer to be, that the lenses are just of higher quality. But the first part makes sense on reflection now also. Is this why people always warn you that the lens specs are slightly wrong on a crop body rather than a full frame?" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:14:48.780" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5085" PostId="4428" Text="Wow great! Thank you for the added info! I have heard good things about Hoya, but this site seems to add confidence to those rumors." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:17:41.827" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5086" PostId="4426" Text="Both your links seem to have some issues." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:18:54.717" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5087" PostId="4427" Text="@BBischof, if you're thinking of the confusion stemming from the use of millimeters to express both field of view and focal length, see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1592/why-do-we-talk-about-focal-length-when-frame-sizes-are-different. It's not exactly that lens specs are &quot;wrong&quot; on APS-C sensors." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:21:25.463" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5088" PostId="4430" Text="Careful; you're conflating focal length and field of view. They're not the same and there's a lot of confusion floating around. See the links I added in comment to the question." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:24:05.713" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5089" PostId="4425" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1592/why-do-we-talk-about-focal-length-when-frame-sizes-are-different" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:24:45.667" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5091" PostId="4427" Text="@Reid, thanks for the links, I was talking about things like when a lens says 70-200, but on a crop body its really like 84-220 or something like that." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:37:28.847" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5094" PostId="4391" Score="1" Text="@Alan The human eye has that many f-stops only after factoring in adjusting the pupil size (&quot;aperture&quot;) and other neurological &quot;processing.&quot;  (In any given scene it's not much more than 7 stops [very roughly], as you can confirm by considering how indistinguishable the details of a shaded area are when you're in the bright sunlight.)  It's not a valid comparison unless you want to look at the entire gamut of exposure available in the camera, which is close to 24 stops (or greater, depending on how much noise you can tolerate)." CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:57:28.297" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="5095" PostId="4391" Score="1" Text="@jrista I'm still a neophyte with digital processing and so don't pretend to speak with any authority, but I have been paying attention to the EV range found in my RAW files, of which I now have several thousand.  The range depends strongly on the subject and the lighting.  In some cases with uniform lighting, low-contrast subjects, and telephoto lenses it's only 4-5 stops, but in others--especially landscapes exposed not to blow the highlights in sky and clouds--there often is a range of just over 10 EV that can be brought out.  (EOS 550.)" CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:01:31.707" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="5096" PostId="4389" Text="@Reid Priedhorsky: I think you are right, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:35:06.283" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="5097" PostId="4417" Score="3" Text="Keep in mind putting any filter in front of your lens increases the likelihood of flaring and cheap filters (especially uncoated ones) are more prone.  All the money you put into really nice lens glass can be compromised by one $10 filter you stick in front :)" CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:37:12.983" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5098" PostId="4429" Text="I've bought a lot of filters from 2Filter, great prices." CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:37:48.053" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5099" PostId="4410" Text="The mod uses an old medium format lens so the size of the image circle isn't a problem. There are lots of good MF lenses for discontinued cameras available for very little money making it quite an attractive prospect. " CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:47:07.823" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5100" PostId="4431" Text="Good point about tilting down to get the foreground in focus, I'm used to the tilt being left/right but I guess for landscapes it makes much more sense to have it switched! " CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:51:55.980" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5101" PostId="4427" Text="@BBischof, smaller sensors aren't truly zoomed in more, they crop out the edges of the focal plane which gives the impression that they are more zoomed in. " CreationDate="2010-10-30T23:02:41.177" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="5102" PostId="4431" Score="1" Text="+1 for a different point of view :) " CreationDate="2010-10-30T23:48:41.280" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5103" PostId="4430" Text="That is standard across the camera industry. People use 35mm focal-lengths to signify 'the field of view obtained by such lens on a 35mm film camera' and by extension on a full-frame DSLR." CreationDate="2010-10-31T00:23:03.933" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5104" PostId="4435" Text="Thanks Matt. The bokeh looked a tad fake to me, but I might be wrong. With a wide open aperture, usually the &quot;blurriness&quot; is not the same depending on the depth of background elements; in some of these photos, it looks like the background is uniformly blurry though, as if a loose/feathered selection had been had been made around the main subject and the rest of the photo had been gaussian blurred. Just my feeling. Maybe I'm getting that because of the extra texture applied to the background." CreationDate="2010-10-31T01:11:44.807" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5105" PostId="4427" Text="+1 I think this is a question that a lot of people have, they just don't understand the difference, and you answered it well." CreationDate="2010-10-31T01:41:38.203" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5106" PostId="4430" Text="@Itai - I can buy an 800mm lens, stabilized, for less than $10,000... Of course, it's on a Pentax body. ;) Anyhow, the lens size doesn't have to match the focal length. For example, the Pentax 70mm pancake prime is 26mm deep, there are point and shoots that have their lenses extend farther than that." CreationDate="2010-10-31T01:49:37.213" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5107" PostId="4418" Text="Go to Yosimite, it worked for Ansel! ;) I didn't answer because I don't think there is a single answer. Lots of places have incredible opportunities for landscape wonder, even close to cities. I think you'll know when you see it, just keep your camera handy." CreationDate="2010-10-31T01:52:59.770" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5108" PostId="4427" Text="@BBischof, yeah, that's the disadvantage of 35mm having been so dominant for so long in the SLR world. If there were multiple common film sizes, we wouldn't have this problem (e.g., I don't think large format people do)." CreationDate="2010-10-31T01:53:09.377" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5109" PostId="4430" Text="@Itai, they're not the same. See the questions linked above." CreationDate="2010-10-31T01:54:32.683" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5110" PostId="1076" Text="Doesn't sound hyperbolic enough to be Ken Rockwell, IMO. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-31T02:00:16.320" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5111" PostId="4430" Text="@Reid - Yes, I absolutely know that. I am saying that it is often implied when people talk about focal-length that they are actually referring to angle-of-view obtained by such a focal-length on a 35mm film camera. I would much prefer people talked in terms of angle-of-view but if I alone did it, most people would not understand me. Even compact cameras often have the equivalent 35-mm focal-length printed on them. It is just that these number have a historical meaning and that is why they are used that way." CreationDate="2010-10-31T02:12:20.270" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5112" PostId="4430" Text="@John - Focal-length and lens-length correlate but they not exactly related due to many factors. In the case of the pancake lens you mention, the dominant factor is the distance between the bayonet mount and the sensor plane which is about 45mm. 45+26 is almost 70mm. There are modern lens constructions that make the relation particularly complex due to concave elements, ultra-high-refractive glass, difractive optics and more." CreationDate="2010-10-31T02:17:02.387" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5113" PostId="4430" Score="2" Text="@Itai, it looks like I did not read your answer carefully enough; you do have an &quot;equivalent&quot; in there. Sorry about that." CreationDate="2010-10-31T02:43:12.730" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5114" PostId="4430" Text="@Itai, Pentax makes a few pancake lenses, including ones that are way off the added distance of the mount and sensor. In very simple optics, the focal length and the barrel will be the same, but we aren't talking about simple optics. That was my point, to go back to your statement &quot;On a DSLR a 250mm has to have a focal of, well, 250mm. That is 25cm or about 10 inches.&quot; Yes, a focal length of 25cm, but your post implied that was the physical size of the lens, which it is very unlikely to be." CreationDate="2010-10-31T03:06:27.663" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5115" PostId="4427" Text="@rm999 - That depends. An APS-C with the same photosite size and pitch will only crop against a FF sensor, but an APS-C with more density on a sensor, that captures more detail, can magnify since that is what magnification is: detail. Of course, other factors play a role, including the lens, noise, etc. so it's not a cut and dry comparison." CreationDate="2010-10-31T03:11:04.990" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5116" PostId="4431" Text="Thanks for the info. It sounds like a TS-E lens does indeed bring the same basic capabilities of a large format view camera to smaller formats. Out of curiosity, why did you sell the 17mm, and keep the 24mm? I guess I would have thought that the 17mm would have been nicer for wide landscapes. How does the 24L TS-E do for landscapes?" CreationDate="2010-10-31T03:47:47.267" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5117" PostId="4410" Text="@Matt: Ah, he used an old MF lens. That definitely sounds like an intriguing option! At the very least, I can experiment with TS and get the hang of it for a few hundred before spending a few thousand on a true TS lens. Any ideas where I might be able to find some MF lenses for sale on the net?" CreationDate="2010-10-31T03:49:01.320" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5118" PostId="4439" Text="Thanks for the info. :) Very interesting point about the 17mm and filters. I've read a couple reviews, but the thought about filters never even crossed my mind. I am a fan of Lee filters, so I really wouldn't want to lose that capability. Guess thats why a few people have said they opted for the 24mm over the 17mm." CreationDate="2010-10-31T03:50:39.260" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5119" PostId="4385" Text="Your URL is broken." CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:08:13.880" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="5120" PostId="4431" Score="1" Text="I (personally) found 17mm to be too wide in the sense that you begin to get distortion at the corners where the 24mm has little to no distortion corner to corner.  As a personal preference I like 21-24mm for 'landscape' photography, but thats just my opinion for my photos :)  Its just as well, the more you use specific foca lengths the easier it is for you to 'see' what will look good before putting the camera to your face and 24mm is one of my 4 favs. " CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:13:58.090" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5121" PostId="4439" Text="Good point on light falloff I forgot about that, I found myself metering w/no tilt/shift first to get a correct reading before adjusting tilt/shift, or using a spot meter." CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:15:23.503" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5122" PostId="4442" Text="Thanks reid, I sent them an email asking for some more information.  I'll send some recent film off and see what I get back :)" CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:21:34.613" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5123" PostId="4440" Text="Yea, beware color casts when stacking dense filters." CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:29:14.040" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5124" PostId="4439" Text="@Shizam: Yes, metering before tilting/shifting is a common workaround, but nothing quite beats a good spot meter :)&#xA;&#xA;@jrista: It's one of the reasons why I'm opting for the 24mm TS-E or the Zeiss 21mm :) For film users, filters are still a necessity." CreationDate="2010-10-31T06:12:25.490" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5125" PostId="4430" Text="@John for a really odd case, the Canon 24-70 lens *extends* as you zoom out..." CreationDate="2010-10-31T07:52:48.663" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5126" PostId="4389" Text="@tomm89 Don't take it personally, and even if it were merged, your wording would be left so that the next person would still be able to find the question when they search the same way you did -- that's actually one of the benefits of how the system works. Regarding moderation, the software that the site is built upon works at its best when the wider community makes the decision -- as you gain higher reputations, you'll gain the ability to vote to mark things as duplicates yourself. It works best when moderators only step in to mediate in case of dispute." CreationDate="2010-10-31T08:00:01.447" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5127" PostId="1875" Text="The Rebel XS is the 1000D which is most definitely still a current model. Even the XSi is still listed as current in the EU, although most people treat it as superceded by the T1i &amp; T2i" CreationDate="2010-10-31T12:09:17.177" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5128" PostId="4379" Score="1" Text="@D. Lambert - I own it, very happy with it. The IQ isn't as good as the 17-50 f/2.8 but you can't beat the versatility. I used it as a primary lens on a 4 week holiday, and was very happy with it. It is a little slow, so it works best when there's plenty of light (thought the 7D has better ISO than my 405D). Also the zoom mechanism is a bit loose, except in the middle where it's tight. You do need to use the zoom lock to stop it sliding out.&#xA;&#xA;@jrista thought it was strange that my answer was downvoted without reason. " CreationDate="2010-10-31T12:20:06.133" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="5129" PostId="4323" Text="I mentioned the 5D as there are two ways to get more light, a bigger aperture (going from 1.4 to 1.2 gives you 1.4x as much light) or a bigger sensor (going from APS-C to full frame gets you 2.56x as much light). Since you're potentially willing to invest in the 1.2 I thought I'd mention there's a cheaper way to get more light. You can still get the 5D markIII when (and if) it comes out!" CreationDate="2010-10-31T13:07:52.167" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5130" PostId="4435" Text="50mm on a crop actually compresses the perspective a reasonable ammount so you don't see huge differences in the CoC between the mid and far distance. It's possible the bokeh has been softened a bit. Like you say it's hard to tell with all the other processing going on..." CreationDate="2010-10-31T13:11:49.447" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5132" PostId="4451" Score="1" Text="You might be able to get away with some better AA size batteries, 1.6v NiZn cells can **halve your recycle time** compared to alkaline/MiMh, see this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4235/aa-rechargeable-batteries-for-nikon-sd-600-speedlight" CreationDate="2010-10-31T13:37:35.917" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5133" PostId="4431" Score="2" Text="17mm is also very wide in the sense that you will get an awful lot of foreground in, and the your background objects (mountains etc.) are going to be mighty small. It can work for some places, but in general I find the 24-35 range more useful." CreationDate="2010-10-31T13:47:44.067" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5134" PostId="4369" Text="You can re-order images in the set later from the Organizr." CreationDate="2010-10-31T15:48:26.493" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5135" PostId="3871" Text="@jrista, w.r.t. Google Chrome, are you sure it's that clear-cut? It sounds like a simple mistake to me. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Google_chrome#Reception" CreationDate="2010-10-31T17:04:50.613" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5136" PostId="4370" Text="@jrista: Most people don't read very much on the web (see http://jdem.cz/hsny5), so it's possible that if they see long post about single-lens setup for trekking that starts with recommendation of 70-200 telezoom they don't read any further." CreationDate="2010-10-31T17:47:14.590" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5137" PostId="4456" Text="I'm not an Aperture user, but this strikes me as interesting terminology.  Given that Apple popularized the copy/paste verbs, you'd think they'd use the same terms here." CreationDate="2010-10-31T17:49:36.260" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="5138" PostId="4456" Text="I agree, not only is it confusing to begin with but using lift/stamp instead of copy/paste just ads insult to injury.  This lame mechanic here was the #1 reason that kept LR3 in the running for me vs Aperture3 (though in the end I went Aperture for other reasons)." CreationDate="2010-10-31T17:52:55.953" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5139" PostId="4456" Text="Yes, lift/stamp was indeed very confusing when I was learning Aperture. However, once you finally get used to the concept and tools, it's actually surprisingly convenient and certainly one of the most commonly used tools for me in Aperture. You can use the same tool to lift &amp; stamp any combination of adjustments and metadata fields (keywords, captions, GPS coordinates etc.)." CreationDate="2010-10-31T17:57:11.440" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="5140" PostId="4323" Text="Thanks for all the insight. For a 50mm lens, I will get either the Sigma 50mm f/1.4, or maybe a Zeiss 50mm manual lens, and save the rest of my money for a TS lens. I think I'll get far more out of say the 24mm L TS-E than out of the 50mm f/1.2. I don't think half an extra stop of light or some better sharpness is really going to do that much for astrophotography. I do agree about the larger sensor of the 5D, and one of my reasons for getting a full-frame body is to finish off my astrophotography kit. Wasn't aware that it was **2.56 times** as much light though...intriguing statistic." CreationDate="2010-10-31T18:25:18.050" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5141" PostId="4348" Text="Thanks for all the insight, ctham. I am thinking the choice will boil down to the Sigma 50/1.4 and the Zeiss 50/1.4 ZE. After hearing from some of you who have the TS-E lenses, I have decided to put my money into the 24mm L TS-E lens, and save more money on the 50mm. I don't think the Canon 50/1.2 will really buy me nearly as much as a tilt/shift will. I really like the idea of a manual focus lens for astrophotography, and it sounds like Zeiss lenses are better with finer details and color." CreationDate="2010-10-31T18:29:03.163" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5142" PostId="4323" Text="Both your answer and ctham's answer were very helpful. As you've established yourself as a solid, core member of our community, I'm going to give ctham the answer vote. Thanks again!" CreationDate="2010-10-31T18:33:02.457" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5143" PostId="4370" Text="Eh, I guess thats it. I'll have to rework my answer I guess to put the lens people &quot;expect&quot; at the top to be at the top." CreationDate="2010-10-31T18:34:01.627" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5144" PostId="4459" Score="1" Text="I don't think this can really be answered without insider knowledge from the manufacturers -- it is just as possible that the analysis given is flawed as the camera manufacturers are doing something." CreationDate="2010-10-31T18:57:43.587" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5145" PostId="4457" Score="2" Text="Presumably you also don't end up paying sales tax to a private seller, so the actual &quot;discount&quot; is somewhat higher (depending on your local sales tax rates, ie. I pay 13% at retail in Ontario)." CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:00:38.777" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5146" PostId="4458" Score="1" Text="That is certainly an alternative approach however you'll wind up polluting your presets with items you may only want to have used once.  I'd only consider creating presets for things I want to reuse like 'Super Duper Contrast', 'Lots o' black' or 'Fix for x-pan' not something I just want to apply to 5 photos." CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:14:50.517" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5147" PostId="4465" Text="I thought so at first, but my friend says he had to activate something through the menus." CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:27:24.620" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5148" PostId="4465" Score="2" Text="You say he had to change something in the menus. I have a Rebel XSi (450D), which is very similar (and I have used the 1000D before). The only AF related thing I see in the menus is the kind of AF to use: One shot, AI Focus, and AI Servo. It sounds like your friend is confused." CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:33:38.533" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="5149" PostId="4461" Score="1" Text="21.6 color bits does seem plausible... that's 7.2 per channel, which certainly is in the realm of possibility." CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:36:56.430" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5152" PostId="4462" Text="Corrected title. And welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:43:55.217" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5153" PostId="4358" Text="+1 for CHDK.  I'm running it on an old Canon A420, and it allows me to shoot raw on that camera." CreationDate="2010-10-31T19:55:50.167" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5154" PostId="4461" Text="My sensor is only a 12-bit sensor, though. Each digital sensor outputs data at a specific bit depth, and outside of maybe some of the Phase One medium format sensors which I believe are 24 bit, no sensor that I know of actually outputs more than 16 bits of color data in RAW." CreationDate="2010-10-31T20:04:30.830" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5155" PostId="4469" Text="Excellent example. :)" CreationDate="2010-10-31T20:05:17.083" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5156" PostId="4461" Text="First, the microlens might mitigate some light loss but it does not eliminate it. This is clearly shown by the test results. It is this residual light loss that Luminous Landscape are talking about.  Second, compensating for the light loss I would not call 'gaming' the system but rather a sensible measure to ensure the photographer gets the exposure he expects. Third, I agree that there should be disclosure and explanation. That would avoid misunderstanding and suspicion." CreationDate="2010-10-31T20:38:50.100" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5157" PostId="4461" Text="@labnut: I never said microlenses would eliminate it, just that they prevent off-axis rays from being completely lost. &quot;Some are reflected, some are captured.&quot; While I do believe that camera manufacturers do some basic things to make sure the settings you select are accurately applied, I don't think it goes far enough to be considered malicious or deserving of extensive explanation to the average consumer. I would be that any such tactics ARE indeed specified in technical documents from each manufacturer, for those interested in digging and finding the info." CreationDate="2010-10-31T20:48:00.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5161" PostId="4368" Score="5" Text="+1 for being up-front!" CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:10:48.923" UserId="562" />
  <row Id="5162" PostId="4323" Text="Cheers! As for the 2.56 figure, it comes from the area difference between the sensors (1.6 squared), with a smaller sensor you're literally throwing away quite a lot of light that falls outside the sensor area. " CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:13:54.673" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5163" PostId="4457" Text="@Reid As the son of an out-of-state tax auditor, that is risky business." CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:20:16.287" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5164" PostId="4469" Score="2" Text="The article isn't suggesting that the camera stops opening the aperture after a point and compensates by upping the ISO, but that light loss at wide aperture due to low angles of incidence is compensated by increasing the ISO " CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:30:57.290" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5165" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista: I agree with you in that the article's comment &quot;...camera manufacturers 'game the system'” seems to be unwarranted and over the top. I do however tend to trust the measurement results on the grounds that this is the best available evidence (until better evidence comes along)" CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:31:52.207" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5169" PostId="4473" Text="80-85% of what? the KEH-type price?" CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:47:22.180" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5170" PostId="4464" Text="re. price reliability, part of the motivation is figuring out what to counter-offer to a Craigslist seller." CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:49:20.153" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5171" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista, that's 12 bits per color, so if you were counting total bits per &quot;pixel&quot; (keeping in mind that each pixel is actually monochromatic), you could plausibly claim 36 bits of color. I haven't looked at the DxO specs so maybe they really are claiming 21.6 bits per channel, but I suspect not because it's (as you say) rather outlandish to do so." CreationDate="2010-10-31T21:55:54.820" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5172" PostId="4465" Text="I think I agree with you. It's what makes most sense to me." CreationDate="2010-10-31T22:12:52.420" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5173" PostId="4457" Score="1" Text="I don't understand why you are asking this question. This question can't necessarily be answered definitively; it's tangentially related to photography (replace the item with any other random item and a link to a company that sells used items of that nature); and that this question is more of a facility for a discussion on how to price items for private sale rather than a question specific to photography. Are you looking for a logic to use to barter-down prices? " CreationDate="2010-10-31T22:13:56.630" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5174" PostId="4469" Score="1" Text="@Matt: The article says “The DxO measurements to date prove that the marginal light rays just don’t hit the sensor.” This means that at some point, even if I keep opening the aperture, the extra light rays the lens is letting in **do not hit the sensor**. This implies that blur circles stop increasing in size. And if there was such a light loss, we should be able to see it: the edges of the blur circles (high angle of incidence) would be darker than the center (normal incidence)." CreationDate="2010-10-31T22:26:56.123" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5176" PostId="4473" Text="Well, specifically the price available to me, which would normally be something like Vistek or Henrys." CreationDate="2010-10-31T22:34:58.830" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5177" PostId="4426" Text="What do You mean by issues? What browser do You use?" CreationDate="2010-10-31T22:39:09.043" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5178" PostId="4024" Text="hey guys... fair enough. I'm not much of a question closer anyways as I think sometimes people are quite harsh. However, I must say, with the amount of purely technical questions popping up on the site that don't enrich photographic knowledge, I do find myself not wanting to post questions on this site... and would rather go to flickr, even though the software is horrible. It's that stuff Jeff Atwood talks about in terms of community in that the questions asked are as important as the questions not asked. You don't want to dilute the community... just my current thoughts...?" CreationDate="2010-10-31T22:45:47.237" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="5179" PostId="4461" Text="@Reid: Ah, you might be onto something there. I was counting it as 21.6 bits per pixel. Even at 21.6 bits total, thats, as you say, only 7.2 bits per pixel, which isn't even as good as a 24bit color image. I know that I get 12 bits per pixel, or 36bit images, when using RAW with my camera. It still indicates that DXO-Mark is off the mark, and their results are very suspect." CreationDate="2010-10-31T23:01:56.473" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5180" PostId="4457" Text="@Alan, used photo gear has a variety of pricing quirks that make it different from random used items; that's the relevance. And yes, I think that that knowing what appropriate pricing on Craiglist is useful exactly because it helps (a) filter out sellers who are being unrealistic and (b) informs counteroffers." CreationDate="2010-10-31T23:08:56.667" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5181" PostId="4479" Score="2" Text="@Alan, in this case, the item has been reposted at least once, so $800 apparently is not the right price. Also, you can only set a price optimally when both buyer and seller have perfect info and the friction of finding a different seller is low." CreationDate="2010-10-31T23:10:54.763" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5182" PostId="4457" Text="@Reid: Fair enough; however it's hard to discern the intent of your question is. Then again, I am a moron." CreationDate="2010-11-01T00:03:20.453" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5184" PostId="4461" Text="DXO are open about the methodologies, you can read about it in great detail if you like: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Our-publications/DxOMark-Insights/Detailed-computation-of-DxOMark-Sensor-normalization the data regarding SNR etc. appears off on first inspection until you realize it's normalised to 8MP to account for differing resolutions, so it's not an absolute measurement. Why do you say you only get 9 stops DR from the 450D, how did you reach this figure? " CreationDate="2010-11-01T00:06:47.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5185" PostId="4469" Text="True you'd expect to see some falloff across the CoC if marginal rays were being attenuated. THB I'm not entirely sure what the article is claiming with regards to incidence angle etc. as it doesn't state what they're actually measuring. I'm going to look at it in more detail in the morning." CreationDate="2010-11-01T00:11:28.710" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5186" PostId="4461" Text="@Matt: &quot;To eliminate bias and rounding errors, DxO Labs accurately measures ISO sensitivity and uses it as the basis for plotting all other characteristics&quot; - The question is, *exactly* how? &quot;Resolution varies from camera to camera, but ultimately images will be compared on similarly-sized screens or prints.&quot; - Similarly-sized screens/prints can be very subjective in their own right. Still not enough information that truly tells us exactly HOW DOX-Mark actually measures things, or how objective those measurements truly are...how safe from mechanical, digital, or interpretation bias they are." CreationDate="2010-11-01T00:44:28.380" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5187" PostId="4461" Text="@Matt: Regarding my own measurements, I meter my scenes a LOT before taking a photograph. I meter the brightest parts, the darkest parts, and a variety of middle-toned parts using spot metering before taking a picture. I usually take a few sample shots before making my final settings and snapping the photograph I intend to keep. Between differences in metered exposure settings for the brightest and darkest parts of a scene, differences in histograms for different parts of a scene, etc., in my estimates I get on *average* 8 stops (max 9 stops) of USABLE DR with the &quot;Neutral&quot; 450D tone curve." CreationDate="2010-11-01T00:48:10.197" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5188" PostId="4457" Text="@Alan, I wasn't trying to call you a moron. I'm sorry if it came off that way." CreationDate="2010-11-01T01:33:47.557" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5189" PostId="3764" Text="It works great with a D90 body. I can use it in manual or autofocus. Using a D5000 body the camera won't even boot to the menu." CreationDate="2010-11-01T03:13:19.200" UserId="128" />
  <row Id="5190" PostId="4420" Text="I just took your advice and bought a 77mm. Thanks again." CreationDate="2010-11-01T03:49:01.917" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5191" PostId="4457" Score="1" Text="@Reid: Lol, no of course. I wasn't implying that you were. I'm just stating that I am a moron. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-01T04:15:27.687" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5192" PostId="4466" Text="+1 - Its worth noting that if you shoot in RAW then this post-processing is done in the RAW editor, and no information is lost." CreationDate="2010-11-01T05:41:24.913" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="5193" PostId="275" Text="Which is a good thing as you'll get the goodness of 85mm for the price of a 50mm :P" CreationDate="2010-11-01T06:26:25.473" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5194" PostId="4481" Score="2" Text="This will depend on the nature of the warranty. Nikon UK repaired under warranty a D70 body for me that I had bought in Chile but originally came from the USA. I don't have the paperwork any longer, but I seem to recall that Nikon operated a world-wide warranty at that time." CreationDate="2010-11-01T07:56:56.517" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="5195" PostId="4484" Text="+1 I too tried to find an answer for this and essentially come to the same conclusion you have" CreationDate="2010-11-01T08:35:41.317" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="5196" PostId="4434" Text="Are we talking about somewhere within the US here?" CreationDate="2010-11-01T10:28:19.363" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="5197" PostId="4458" Text="@Shizam, fair point - I upvoted your answer as it's a great solution for one-offs.   For the particular case I had here, I tend to want to add it most photos, so it makes sense to go on my presets list, so I can import with it, and then uncheck it when I think it's not needed...." CreationDate="2010-11-01T10:50:09.993" UserId="9" />
  <row Id="5198" PostId="4480" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-01T12:34:45.267" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5199" PostId="4482" Text="The credit card benefits will vary by territory - to say it doubles the warranty is a touch misleading to those in the UK, for example." CreationDate="2010-11-01T12:45:11.817" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5200" PostId="4490" Text="I'm sorry I have to downvote this - the number of mm per element is a very poor gauge of complexity - the Canon 50 f/1.8, the simplest and cheapest lens in the lineup has **only 6.6mm per element**, and yet is a tenth of the sticker price of the 10-22. And then there are pancake lenses. The difficulty in assembling elements close together pales in comparison to the manufacture of the elements themselves (which to be fair you do mention)" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:10:15.013" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5201" PostId="4490" Text="Very true, I used that to show how drastic the difference can be when you try to fit a similar number of elements in a smaller space. I didn't really make that distinction clear, so it does fall apart when you make a comparison with a simple lens such as the 50 f/1.8 which only has 6 elements." CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:24:56.947" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5202" PostId="4490" Score="1" Text="Or point and shoot cameras, which have a load of really tiny elements crammed into an even smaller space, yet cost next to nothing!" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:25:55.547" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5203" PostId="4492" Text="A bit more about retrofocal design: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ang%C3%A9nieux_retrofocus" CreationDate="2010-11-01T13:59:32.140" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5204" PostId="4345" Text="Just found a 16-35 f/2.8 L USM II for under £1000, could be a winner there..." CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:43:18.953" UserId="1749" />
  <row Id="5205" PostId="4482" Text="And by credit card - you might have more, less, or no warranty extension." CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:44:16.813" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5206" PostId="4481" Score="1" Text="My understanding is that Nikon USA will repair lenses you personally buy (and can prove you bought) overseas, but not gray market imports. @Danny, that sounds like your situation perhaps?" CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:45:34.240" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5207" PostId="4466" Text="Reichmann's article is not about vignetting. It's about an angular dependence of the sensor's sensitivity that *could lead* to some vignetting. However, the author focuses on a light loss that should affect the *whole field* with lenses faster than f/2. Vignetting, on the other hand, is a brightness variation *across the field* that depends more on the lens than on the sensor, and can even be experienced with lenses as slow as f/2.8." CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:55:00.143" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5208" PostId="4434" Text="Yup, w/in the US.  On the west coast for bonus points." CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:56:41.137" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5209" PostId="4458" Text="Ah hah, then yea presets for sure." CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:57:17.907" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5210" PostId="4492" Score="9" Text="+1 for a superb answer that goes beyond what was asked and introduces ideas and information of general use to all readers." CreationDate="2010-11-01T14:57:52.007" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="5211" PostId="4492" Score="1" Text="Upvoted for the really useful and easily digestible information. Well done, Matt!" CreationDate="2010-11-01T15:46:16.387" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5212" PostId="4481" Score="1" Text="@Reid, yes possibly. Wish I still had the paperwork so I could check the wording! Reading through Thom's article (see Reid's comment below) it was a repair done due to a batch fault in early D70s, which may also have been a factor." CreationDate="2010-11-01T15:49:32.453" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="5213" PostId="4466" Text="I wonder how angular dependence of sensor sensitivity could lead to light loss that is uniform across whole image." CreationDate="2010-11-01T15:56:15.357" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5215" PostId="4466" Text="I did not say the light loss would be *uniform*, I only said it would affect the *whole image*. Take a really fast lens and look at the light cone that hits the center of the sensor. The light ray passing through the center of the aperture (so called &quot;principal&quot; ray) will hit the sensor at normal incidence. Rays passing close to the edges of the aperture (&quot;marginal&quot; rays) will hit with an oblique angle, thus being less efficient. The effect can indeed be non-uniform except with telecentric lenses. Well, that's my reading of Reichmann's point, not that he convinced me..." CreationDate="2010-11-01T16:44:39.707" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5217" PostId="4498" Text="@Shizam: Thanks for the answer. Does this filter http://www.amazon.com/Hoya-Ultra-Violet-Coated-Filter/dp/B00009R9A1/ fit my lenses? The Wikipedia articles for these two lenses specify the filter diameter is 58mm, which means this filter will fit my lenses, won't it?" CreationDate="2010-11-01T16:52:59.727" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="5218" PostId="4498" Text="Thats right, both lenses accept a 58mm filter.  Good call on getting a MC (multi-coated) filter if you're going to get one." CreationDate="2010-11-01T16:59:24.680" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5219" PostId="4498" Text="@Shizam: Thanks for the confirmation." CreationDate="2010-11-01T17:01:32.693" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="5220" PostId="4482" Text="@Rowland Shaw: True. I mentioned the US specific CC warranty because the OP is asking about buying a US lens vs an import lens, from a US retailer (B&amp;H). So I assumed he is buying in the US." CreationDate="2010-11-01T17:10:37.437" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5221" PostId="4481" Score="1" Text="thats all really useful to know - thank you" CreationDate="2010-11-01T17:21:39.813" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="5223" PostId="4257" Text="For manual uses, Irfanview batch rocks on windows and you can use gThumb on linux." CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:28:59.997" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="5224" PostId="4498" Text="Merged from: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4496/which-filters-should-i-be-buying-for-canon-eos-550-d-18-55mm-and-55-250mm-lenses" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:31:58.897" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5225" PostId="4500" Text="Merged from: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4496/which-filters-should-i-be-buying-for-canon-eos-550-d-18-55mm-and-55-250mm-lenses" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:32:17.430" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5226" PostId="1374" Score="1" Text="I believe you meant the Olympus E-PL1 http://bit.ly/c6sMVV. Probably not the E-P1 or E-P2. The E-PL1 is more targeted toward entry-level and P&amp;S use with room to grow. (Note that there is no such product as the E-PL2) #ImAnOlympusEmployee" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:32:22.600" UserId="1949" />
  <row Id="5227" PostId="3501" Text="Yes, this is a very professional way to display/share your photos" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:32:57.070" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5228" PostId="1894" Score="1" Text="I like the privacy controls in Picasaweb" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:34:52.857" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5229" PostId="302" Text="It also integrates well with Shotwell, the up and coming photo manager in Ubuntu Linux" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:36:06.413" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5230" PostId="1374" Score="1" Text="Both the LX3 and S90 have larger than average sensors, and wide apertures, but the S90 seems to have the edge in low light: http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_PowerShot_S90-vs-Panasonic_Lumix_DMC-LX3" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:51:28.107" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5231" PostId="4492" Text="+1, for clarity. IMHO, discussion assuming 35mm format and DSLR body design is fair given the OP's reference to specific Cannon lenses for 35mm DLSRs." CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:59:57.177" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="5232" PostId="4492" Text="yeah but I was critical of people for ignoring large format in the discussion on telephoto lenses that I linked to, so I've edited my answer for the sake of clarity and consistency." CreationDate="2010-11-01T19:09:30.267" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5233" PostId="4385" Text="That site seems to have missed a few (The Samsung TL500/EX1 for example).  My site (Snapsort) lists a few more: http://snapsort.com/explore/best-compacts/supports-raw" CreationDate="2010-11-01T19:10:56.537" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5234" PostId="4510" Score="3" Text="I've used niether, but I suspect the difference is the cheap ones are of lower quality! Practically speaking this will mean reduction in contrast, possibly increased susceptance to flare, and more likely, colour casts." CreationDate="2010-11-01T19:15:13.897" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5235" PostId="4466" Text="Yes. And what I'm saying is that the non-uniform part of corrections is already plainly visible in camera menu, so it can hardly be called cheating. And if there's some uniform part independent on which part of image are you looking at, there's a question why would you secretly raise ISO if you can simply account for that effect in AE calculations." CreationDate="2010-11-01T19:34:07.480" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5236" PostId="4499" Score="2" Text="What about a nearly-faulty contact whose conductivity depends on random movements of parts, or even humidity?" CreationDate="2010-11-01T19:47:45.347" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5237" PostId="4510" Score="1" Text="@Matt, you should throw that one in as an answer, it was the one I would have given." CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:04:54.807" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5238" PostId="1379" Text="Consider some of the new NiZn batteries, they put out over 1.8v fresh, dropping to 1.6v as they run out, suposed to have number of recharges (low hundreds), about the same total power capacity as NiMH, also, high current. Wedding photographers seem to like them, flash will cycle twice as fast as on other batteries. They work great in my daughters camera that will not run on alkaline AA cells. Price is quite reasonable." CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:21:22.813" UserId="1947" />
  <row Id="5239" PostId="4510" Score="1" Text="I would but I want to let someone with some actual experience in this area answer" CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:22:32.577" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5240" PostId="4514" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the comments on the ND filters.  However, so that nobody leaps to unwarranted conclusions, I would like to remark that the technology for a fixed ND filter is completely different from a variable filter, so we can't really generalize from one to the other." CreationDate="2010-11-01T20:55:02.543" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="5241" PostId="4514" Text="Now that you mention it, that makes sense, the SND filters don't use polarization." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:07:46.020" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5242" PostId="4492" Text="@Matt: yup, looks much better (IMO, anyway)." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:10:20.100" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="5243" PostId="4517" Text="Sorry, but I don't have enough reputation to post the image." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:13:43.390" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5244" PostId="4499" Text="@che, which contact are you thinking? the hot shoe or one of the battery ones? or something internal?" CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:17:07.653" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="5245" PostId="4482" Text="Thanks. I didn't realize that what B&amp;H calls imported is the same as grey market. I guess that I'll shell out the extra $30 dollars for the lens warrenty" CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:21:56.940" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5246" PostId="4493" Text="Wow. That is a bit extreme position on part of Nikon. I'll stick with the authorized lenses." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:23:33.070" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5247" PostId="4486" Text="Actually, I am moving to Canada in some time and that was part of the reason for buying gear in the USA. The prices in Canada are much more expensive (The same lens on Amazon.ca is $300, almost $80 more than the US price of $220. I haven't checked the price at local camera stores). Judging by the Thom Hogan article that Reid linked to, I should be able to get service from Nikkon Canada dealer on a lens I purchased when I was in US. " CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:27:59.073" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5248" PostId="4481" Text="I will be moving to another country (Canada) in some time. But, since I am buying the lens when I in the US, I think that I should be covered by Nikon Canada in warranty. " CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:30:16.730" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5249" PostId="4517" Score="5" Text="@Brig if you have some hosted somewhere (like maybe Flickr) You could post the url in the comment, and ask one of the local, friendly moderators to add it to your post for you..." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:37:07.503" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5250" PostId="4520" Text="Hmm, interesting. What is involved in &quot;tapping&quot; the lens, is it literally just picking up the lens and tapping it on a table? Also, is it tough to put a lens back together after dissecting/cleaning it? " CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:49:05.497" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="5251" PostId="4520" Score="1" Text="@rm999 that's exactly what I meant, and not something I'd recommend trying on something that wasn't already broken. I forget if that lens extends as it focuses - if so you can try wiggling it a bit, which may free up any stray grain(s) of sand (etc) inside." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:55:42.840" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5252" PostId="4520" Score="1" Text="If you did take it apart, I wouldn't expect it to go back together again without professional tools, so consider that the last resort." CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:56:46.770" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5253" PostId="4517" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-01T23:04:53.690" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5254" PostId="4499" Text="I can't be hotshoe, because then it would predent it's completely dead. It can be battery contact or something internal. But this is my completely wild guess." CreationDate="2010-11-01T23:09:53.613" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5255" PostId="4486" Score="1" Text="Sometimes I find things to be cheaper in Canada, especially after taking into account shipping (and/or brokerage, depending on how the item is shipped). There is a good photo price comparison site for Canadians that includes pricing from Adorama, B&amp;H, and others, as well as all the big Canadian places like Henry's, Vistek, Aden, etc... The site is http://www.photoprice.ca. Here is the link to the lens that you were looking at: http://www.photoprice.ca/product/00084/Nikon-AF-S-Zoom-Nikkor-DX-55-200mm-f4.5-5.6-VR-price.html" CreationDate="2010-11-01T23:19:12.477" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5256" PostId="1382" Text="The Canon S90 is very good indeed, as long as you do use its lens to shoot at one stop less ISO than you would with another premium compact. Otherwise, take a good look at the Nikon P7000. I just reviewed it last week and although I preferred the controls of the S90, ISO-for-ISO the P7000 beats the S90." CreationDate="2010-11-01T23:53:09.213" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5257" PostId="4523" Text="MTF data is a very incomplete representation of a lens quality. It only describes sharpness, not vignetting, not distortion, not aberrations, not color-shifts, etc. It is very hard to characterize a lens, although both slrgear.com and depeview.com both do a decent job." CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:14:40.630" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5258" PostId="3622" Text="It is somewhat arbitrary but its good that people agree on ballpark numbers. I've started telephoto at 70mm for Neocamera but it just allows things to be fit into a category." CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:20:29.733" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5259" PostId="4402" Text="AF off and manual at infinity... forgot that one!" CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:23:26.777" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="5260" PostId="4411" Text="These are great. More interesting up close." CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:24:45.400" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="5261" PostId="4517" Score="2" Text="Hi Brig, and welcome. It would be very helpful if you could post a sample picture somewhere, such as flickr or imageshack or the like. Having a visual example of what you mean by &quot;muddy&quot; and &quot;not high contrast&quot; will allow more people to offer helpful insight. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:41:55.613" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5262" PostId="4524" Text="I wouldn't say you &quot;have&quot; to produce perfect pictures strait out of the camera. I also wouldn't say that there is no such thing as either photo-correction or photo-enhancement. There are MANY schools of thought on such subjects, and many artistic styles that depend on creativity both in-camera and during post-processing. I feel that stating absolutes in regards to things that are more personal style than anything else can stifle creativity, rather than help enrich it. (Go take a look through the most popular photographic works at deviantart.com, and you'll see a huge variety of styles.)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:44:34.753" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5263" PostId="4524" Text="@jrista The point about being photo-enhancement vs photo-correction is that you should not using software to correct problems which could be avoided. If you want the results to be outstanding, even after manipulation, you still have to start with something good." CreationDate="2010-11-02T00:48:57.760" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5264" PostId="4524" Text="@Itai: These days, photo-correction can be considered a common and essential step in digital photographic workflow if you follow the ETTR, or Expose to the Right, rule. Sure, you can take a photo that looks pretty darn good strait out of the camera, but thats not making the best use of your digital hardware. Following rules like ETTR, you can make better use of your sensors dynamic range, at the cost of having to &quot;correct&quot; it during post processing. Others use tools like X-Rite ColorChecker to snap a single color-correction shot, then select perfect white-balance in post-processing. " CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:00:01.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5265" PostId="4524" Text="I do agree, you should do what you can to get a great shot strait out of the camera, but sometimes that by definition means that you are doing things in-camera that MANDATE some post-process photo-correction work. As for photo-enhancement, that is a creative process, and should be left up to each artist. ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:00:56.573" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5266" PostId="4528" Score="3" Text="+1 for the picture, I liked it! Now, the only down on it is that you're missing a cloud. All diagrams need clouds. ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:25:40.007" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5267" PostId="4519" Text="People, there is some good information here. Leave an explanation if you want to downvote, please." CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:36:51.510" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5268" PostId="4519" Text="I got downvoted? " CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:47:13.233" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5269" PostId="4524" Score="2" Text="Your responses are all about sharpness, but the question is about contrast." CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:48:22.700" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5270" PostId="4524" Text="@itai: I'd be interested in seeing some photos you've taken (straight out of camera) that you feel have &quot;nice contrast&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:57:07.233" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5271" PostId="4519" Score="1" Text="Yep. Which is something I don't understand. If a downvote was made with an explanation, that would be very helpful." CreationDate="2010-11-02T02:28:21.840" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5272" PostId="2860" Text="Well, few local stores around me actually carry any decent papers. I finally just went with online stores, including Adorama, B&amp;H, and Amazon. Thanks for the tip." CreationDate="2010-11-02T03:30:06.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5273" PostId="4274" Text="@Walt: I do make sure that the printer ICM is turned off. I actually have numerous saved printer setting profiles that I use that are all properly configured, and define my paper type, size, resolution, and ICM. I have double-checked that many times as well. It appears that Lightroom has a bug, and it is improperly applying my printer profiles when I print from it. No one seems to know what the problem is, so I just resort to printing from Photoshop, where I have more control anyway." CreationDate="2010-11-02T03:32:00.473" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5274" PostId="4524" Text="Every photo @ http://www.neoluminance.com except for the 4 panoramas, one cropped photo (shot from a moving vehicle) and one tilted by 0.5-degrees is straight out of one of my cameras or one of my sponsors. Pic any one you like, I don't consider that any lacks contrast." CreationDate="2010-11-02T03:48:37.073" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5275" PostId="4524" Text="@ Alex - I focussed on 'muddy' more than on 'contrast' :) which you get with too high ISO and too strong noise-reduction. Also, when sharpness falls, local contrast is low too which is what some people would call muddy. Global contrast is rarely affected by inadequate sharpness though, if that is what you are referring to." CreationDate="2010-11-02T03:51:24.467" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5276" PostId="4534" Score="1" Text="This is correct. I want to emphasize that it works this way because most cameras do not adjust their response dynamically and once they have metered and a certain input level produces a certain output level, everything else falls into place.&#xA;&#xA;Some cameras can adjust their response though. Fuji calls this simple 'Auto Dynamic-Range', while Sony calls it Auto DRO, other names exist. In this case there is flexibility but it has a limited range. The response can generally accept up to +1 EV except for Fuji's system which can expand to +3 EV." CreationDate="2010-11-02T04:05:06.077" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5277" PostId="4528" Text="There was a cloud, but being a graphic designer OCD, it was black fill with white outline so I couldn't use it :-P" CreationDate="2010-11-02T04:11:38.600" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5278" PostId="2444" Text="That monitor is super-impressive... Like looking out a window. Interestingly, it makes things look more 3D because the contrast range gives more depth-cues to our brains, or so the Brightside people told me. They also told me the estimated price :( as I saw a hand-made prototype unit." CreationDate="2010-11-02T04:18:21.450" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5279" PostId="4529" Text="I would add a fourth risk to your list - operator error/negligence. My observations are that this risk is equal to the sum of the first three risks." CreationDate="2010-11-02T10:19:32.387" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5280" PostId="4541" Text="@che: You might want to look at Nilfs: www.nilfs.org &quot;NILFS is a log-structured file system supporting versioning of the entire file system and continuous snapshotting which allows users to even restore files mistakenly overwritten or destroyed just a few seconds ago.&quot;  It is essentially a versioning file system and it is now part of the kernel." CreationDate="2010-11-02T10:25:49.887" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5281" PostId="4546" Score="1" Text="[Hugin tutorials](http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/index.shtml)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T12:58:30.177" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5283" PostId="346" Text="DropBox costs $99 per 50GB per year. Picasa offeres 80 GB per $20. Flickr and 23hq offer unlimited storage for $24 and $28 respectively. And even premium SmugMug starts at $40 per year for unlimited storage. DropBox is the most expensive solution." CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:29:37.640" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5284" PostId="4368" Text="Is SmugMug available in the languages other than English?" CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:31:51.227" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5285" PostId="1379" Text="You should be very careful before using a battery that puts out more than 1.5v - you might end up damaging your camera. I would call the manufacturer first." CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:44:33.537" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5286" PostId="4037" Text="Bibble Pro itself is quite good. Loved the speed and the search interface, it made it easy to refine from broad searches to get specific results. In the end I decided to use Lightroom because of a Bibble bug that made them skip over large panoramas. I emailed, called and even faxed them and never got ANY sort of reply." CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:56:31.190" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5287" PostId="4544" Text="at first I read this question as &quot;Paranormal software for Ubuntu&quot;. No offense but I think that versions is even MORE interesting :) " CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:15:32.983" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5288" PostId="4435" Text="What kind of split tone combinations do you like?" CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:22:56.203" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="5289" PostId="4526" Score="3" Text="There are a few similar questions on partner sites: http://serverfault.com/q/512/465 http://superuser.com/q/177595/897 http://superuser.com/q/114072/897" CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:38:39.953" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5290" PostId="4486" Text="Thanks for the photoprice link. Some of the lenses are actually cheaper in Canada :)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:44:57.330" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5291" PostId="4528" Text="Wow, that is a strange looking 50D. I didn't know it was so boxy. And that lens is super tiny. :P +1" CreationDate="2010-11-02T16:16:11.307" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5292" PostId="4524" Text="@itai - the phones at neoluminance.com - they're all taken digitally with NO processing whatsoever? were they shot JPEG with standard/natural settings in-camera? (which camera?)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T16:46:10.733" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5293" PostId="2155" Text="It's better than nothing - I think my frame place uses heat activated adhesive and laminate; that process requires a press." CreationDate="2010-11-02T17:39:27.540" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="5294" PostId="4492" Score="3" Text="+1 Fantastic answer! Love how thorough you were, and how easy it is to digest the information." CreationDate="2010-11-02T17:53:48.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5295" PostId="4544" Text="@BBischof -- Did u watch Paranormal activity recently ?!! :)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T17:58:03.013" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="5296" PostId="4548" Score="1" Text="Hugin got installed easily , no problems what so ever. Asking in this forum is better than searching endlessly in Google." CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:29:00.710" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="5297" PostId="4546" Text="Thanks for the tutorial , Installed Hugin and created a panaroma too with it , If program can calculate control points , It works like a charm . ( no need to even see the tutorial ! ) Hats off to programmers of this Software !! " CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:31:42.033" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="5298" PostId="4548" Text="Great, ask again if you need help using it." CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:34:56.977" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5299" PostId="2605" Text="Just to let everybody know that this len is the best of all my len! Of course I can't shoot fast because of the focusing but the result is very awesome!" CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:37:20.000" UserId="1112" />
  <row Id="5300" PostId="4559" Score="1" Text="do you know of any that integrate with Lightroom (etc)?" CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:40:59.747" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5301" PostId="4559" Score="2" Text="That all does make sense, but, being a developer myself, I like to be more in control of the process. I really don't want a 3rd party between me and the storage. From what I've read it's pretty easy to use some of the APIs and the 3rd party tools abound as well." CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:47:07.167" UserId="1994" />
  <row Id="5302" PostId="4560" Score="3" Text="That does also work as a hidden tie in, as you rely on the host company to be able to decrypt it on the way back out..." CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:02:08.247" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5303" PostId="4558" Text="This is pretty similar to: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3842/picking-a-hotshoe-flash" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:32:54.757" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5304" PostId="4559" Text="Yes there are many third party tools, see the sample code and library page http://aws.amazon.com/code" CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:19:18.243" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5305" PostId="4566" Score="1" Text="the 18-200 is fairly expensive though.." CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:40:43.230" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5306" PostId="4565" Text="I thought that while the focal range on the 55mm-200mm VR might be appropriate for portraits, it would be difficult to get a good bokeh with an aperture that small. " CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:45:11.637" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5307" PostId="4565" Text="just have to take some more distance from the subject. than you can get very nice bokeh, or position the subject further from the background." CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:51:09.723" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5308" PostId="4517" Text="You should be able to post the image here now (by editing your question), since you have gotten enough up-votes for this question." CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:55:26.043" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="5309" PostId="4565" Score="1" Text="At 200mm you could get some nice bokeh - people often forget or don't realize that long focal lengths get bokeh even at narrower aperture" CreationDate="2010-11-02T20:55:45.553" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5310" PostId="4565" Text="I'm pretty new to photography, so its more of just not knowing. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:00:48.287" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5311" PostId="4565" Score="2" Text="I don't think that comment was aimed at you, but since your new, you got a nice body, and a pretty good kit lens, try not to spend money on expensive lenses before you know you own style. The 55-200 really is a cheap lens to have fun with. And I have been very pleased with my portraits shots. For budget reasons, you can also find this lens on ebay for a even more easy price to bootstrap your experience. (do get the VR though)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:06:40.023" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5312" PostId="4563" Text="This gallery, &quot;Montana RoadTrip 2009&quot;, requires a password to continue." CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:12:55.393" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5313" PostId="4562" Score="4" Text="External flash that can't be turned left or right is significantly less fun." CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:15:44.287" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5314" PostId="4565" Text="I didn't take it personally at all (not in a bad way at least).  I appreciate the budget concerns - they're definitely a factor." CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:16:02.767" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5316" PostId="4565" Text="see this picture for instance: http://www.flickr.com/photos/59849906@N00/2586376218/ it was shot with the 55-200 (not mine picture, but found via [PixelPeeper advanced flickr search](http://www.pixel-peeper.com/adv/?lens=210&amp;camera=none&amp;perpage=12&amp;focal_min=none&amp;focal_max=none&amp;aperture_min=none&amp;aperture_max=5.6&amp;iso_min=none&amp;iso_max=none&amp;exp_min=none&amp;exp_max=none&amp;res=3&amp;p=14))" CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:39:07.270" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5317" PostId="4563" Text="@che D'oh! cleared, sorry." CreationDate="2010-11-02T21:51:48.867" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="5318" PostId="4528" Text="It's the umm... European model. Yep." CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:10:26.657" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5319" PostId="4460" Text="I think you're missing the point. Which is... if you're precisely in Av mode, lens wide open at f/1.2, ISO100, whatever shutter speed... because the sensor design is not 100% efficient, you will get slight under exposure. Which you would notice. So they bump up the sensor gain (&quot;ISO&quot;). The reason people are a little unhappy about it, as explained in the article, is that you're not getting all your f/1.2, which is a shame if you pay for it. However the effect appears marginal, so marginal in fact that no one noticed it before." CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:17:13.120" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="5320" PostId="4544" Text="No actually, I don't know why I thought that hehe" CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:28:19.107" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5321" PostId="4302" Text="I wouldn't say the 1DIII &quot;crushes&quot; the 7D in terms of burst speed. The 1DIII is a 10fps body, while the 7D is an 8fps body. The 7D is also a sports/wildlife/birding body as it has stellar AF and a high burst rate. The 5DII is indeed crushed by both, as it is a 3fps body." CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:57:13.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5322" PostId="4570" Text="Start carrying the polarizer? :) Seriously, it will help. (And welcome to photo.SE!)" CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:59:50.233" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5323" PostId="4571" Score="1" Text="I assume that the reason to shoot at an angle is to keep the camera/photographer reflection out of the image? Shooting at an angle increases reflections in the window glass, so that factor would have the opposite effect." CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:06:13.173" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="5324" PostId="4401" Text="I bought an RC-6, I'll edit after I see how it works." CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:58:16.710" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="5325" PostId="4557" Text="Welcome to photo.SE, Chad!" CreationDate="2010-11-03T00:40:13.833" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5326" PostId="4302" Score="1" Text="'AF, AE and burst speed' were a package deal in the crushing :)  The 1DIII focuses faster/more accurately*, exposes masterfully and bursts faster.  And, Servo focus with 45 AF points is amazing, your subject is pretty much always covered by multiple AF points and more of those AF points are cross-type.  Using one, then the other in the same session really shows the difference." CreationDate="2010-11-03T00:44:34.197" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5327" PostId="4567" Score="1" Text="Actually, with a SmugMug account you can opt to use it as a 'FrontEnd' for S3 storage as well.  For any 'normal' photo on SmugMug you can also upload any number of 'vault' photos that get stored on S3 (under your S3 account) and are tied to that photo, kinda like a master/version setup.  RAW files, 500MB tiffs, PSDs etc.  That is of course, in addition to what your link notes, that SM uses AWS to host its photos.  (Note: I work for SmugMug)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T00:50:59.507" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5328" PostId="4564" Score="1" Text="The other answers all recommend the 35mm AF-S f/1.8, and I totally agree. It's a fantastic lens for a decent price." CreationDate="2010-11-03T01:21:58.737" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5329" PostId="4572" Text="+1 for opening statement, it was my first reaction. :) After that, I also agree with you." CreationDate="2010-11-03T03:13:34.123" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5330" PostId="2706" Score="1" Text="good question chris!" CreationDate="2010-11-03T06:36:13.097" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="5331" PostId="4576" Text="I haven't used Photoshop ! , so comparing it to photoshop doesn't help , but will have a look at tutorial. Tutorial looks comprehensive Thank you." CreationDate="2010-11-03T07:11:34.450" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="5332" PostId="4576" Score="2" Text="The cambridgeincolour tutorial you cite works equally well for Gimp . That is a very good reference you provided." CreationDate="2010-11-03T07:23:03.237" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5333" PostId="4566" Text="+1 for sticking with AF. DX viewfinders aren't really meant to manual focus fast primes, and trying to do so could lead to some frustrating results." CreationDate="2010-11-03T08:48:24.770" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5334" PostId="4572" Score="1" Text="I would just add: open the aperture in order to maximize the defocusing of the dirt." CreationDate="2010-11-03T08:54:03.017" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5335" PostId="4460" Text="My point is that if manufacturers know about sensor inefficiencies, it makes more sense to bump shutter speed than ISO in Av mode." CreationDate="2010-11-03T09:45:10.190" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5336" PostId="801" Text="The GXR also supports DNG" CreationDate="2010-11-03T09:54:14.610" UserId="617" />
  <row Id="5337" PostId="4567" Text="Thank you for details. Very interesting." CreationDate="2010-11-03T11:40:11.603" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5338" PostId="4570" Text="Similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3088/tips-for-shooting-in-an-aquarium" CreationDate="2010-11-03T12:33:30.403" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5339" PostId="4528" Score="2" Text="Off site or online back up is so important as you never know when a fire in the building next door will destroy everything" CreationDate="2010-11-03T12:51:17.510" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="5340" PostId="4524" Text="@ Alex : phones? Not sure which picture you are referring too. If you give a direct link (if it's on the front page or gallery list at the bottom of any page, click through because its randomized), I'll tell you camera and settings. Everything is JPEG though with the most natural settings possible, I calibrate each camera to a color-chart and shoot with the same image parameters 99.999% of the time." CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:44:09.890" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5341" PostId="4579" Score="3" Text="EC does not work in manual mode. Some cameras let you change the EC in M mode to affect the metering-reading (which is there as a guide) but exposure does not change." CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:48:40.587" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5342" PostId="4592" Text="Was the grain in the photo that you scanned?" CreationDate="2010-11-03T14:57:12.033" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5343" PostId="4592" Text="I didn't scan a print. The place I got my film developed scanned from the negative. I can't really tell if there's grain on the negative easily, unless I found a magnifying glass or something." CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:00:18.687" UserId="1793" />
  <row Id="5344" PostId="4579" Text="Thanks @Itai, I didn't explain that portion very well.  Hopefully my edit helps." CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:07:51.050" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5345" PostId="4593" Text="Indeed. Grain is supposed to be there! :)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:12:16.350" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5346" PostId="1942" Text="I asked, and from the discussion (here: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/424/is-it-bad-etiquette-to-include-amazon-affiliates-tags-in-links) I think &quot;deemed pointless&quot; is more accurate than &quot;frowned upon&quot;!  (who knew?)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:15:18.127" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="5347" PostId="4594" Score="1" Text="A grain won't always be smaller than a pixel, even a grain size of ten microns will start to show up once you go above 2500 DPI" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:49:48.677" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5348" PostId="4572" Score="3" Text="For some reason they won't let you open the windows on an airliner... " CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:02:31.967" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5349" PostId="4593" Text="OK. So I should consider it part of the aesthetic. Like the pops while listening to an LP..." CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:17:17.663" UserId="1793" />
  <row Id="5350" PostId="4595" Text="Underexposure is quite possible. I wasn't using a flash, and was using a relatively fast shutter speed (1/60 I think). I guess I'll try out the same processor w/ some daylight photos and see if they come out any better." CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:31:05.433" UserId="1793" />
  <row Id="5351" PostId="4586" Score="1" Text="Yes we do! Give us more ;-)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:41:59.163" UserId="442" />
  <row Id="5352" PostId="4601" Text="Thanks for the link! Do you mean that haze appears higher at noon because of the angle of the light, or because there is less particulate matter in the air at that time for some reason?" CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:51:20.497" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5353" PostId="4600" Text="Interesting. I hadn't heard of &quot;Haze&quot; filters before. Do they actually help to increase contrast or merely alter the hue of the image?" CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:55:55.393" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5354" PostId="4601" Text="Angle of light. Think eclipses but on a particulate level. If the sun is low, particles are blocking the light, in effect casting themselves into shadow. You don't really see them. Sun is high, you see more of the particles. As for amount of particles in air, try after a rain storm:)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:57:30.227" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5355" PostId="4601" Score="2" Text="Haze is actually much greater at sunset/sunrise as the sun is lower in the sky and sunlight has to travel through a greater volume of air. Haze is often **minimal** at midday.  " CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:58:34.047" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5356" PostId="4602" Text="Two very useful points. Would you recommend any specific filters based on personal experience?" CreationDate="2010-11-03T16:58:48.233" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5357" PostId="4601" Text="wow Matt, you know everything!" CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:00:47.897" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5358" PostId="4601" Text="In fact atmospheric scattering is **responsible** for the magic hour! I'm afraid I don't understand your explanation of particles &quot;casting themselves into shadow&quot;, scattering occurs at the microscopic and even atomic level, so the analogy of miniature eclipses doesn't apply. " CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:05:18.530" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5359" PostId="4591" Text="Thanks, that link is very useful. I'll probably take apart the lens and try fixing it myself, because I see no point in spending 200 dollars to fix a 250 dollar lens. " CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:12:01.770" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="5360" PostId="4601" Text="You are right. Atmospheric scattering makes magic hour happen, through umbras, penumbras and refractions, this is the scatter AND the eclipse. And as for haze being minimal at noon, I just shot a soccer game at high noon last week and it offered some of the nastiest haze I've ever dealt with. " CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:14:20.767" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5361" PostId="4601" Text="If it's affecting your shots over the distance of a football field it's probably smog (heavy concentrations of airborne particles which occoude light) not haze. Can you post any examples. It's possible for haze to be worse at midday as it depends on atmospheric conditions but it's more likely at sunset, where it changes the colour of the sky! " CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:22:31.397" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5362" PostId="4565" Text="My concern on the range for the &quot;trip&quot; lens is based on my P&amp;S experience, but I looked at the EXIF data from a fully zoomed picture on my P&amp;S and it lists it as &quot;350mm (35 mm)&quot;. At the 1.5 crop factor of the D3100, should I expect approximately the same distance from a 200mm lens like the Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR ? If so, I'm probably leaning towards that and the 35mm 1.8." CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:42:12.150" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5363" PostId="4604" Score="1" Text="Can you show some examples?" CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:53:06.177" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5364" PostId="4601" Text="Posted here...http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4607/haze-pollution-and-overhead-light" CreationDate="2010-11-03T18:04:53.543" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5365" PostId="4608" Text="The sun seems to be coming from above and slightly behind the camera. It looks to me like this would have to be a tiny crop from an almost insanely wide-angle shot for that to be flare. I've vote for something else like somebody's sleeve sticking in front of the lens." CreationDate="2010-11-03T18:57:02.030" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="5366" PostId="4602" Text="A polarizing filter will give you the most mileage, as the haze is partially plane polarized as a result of scattering. I would recommend the B+W slim circular polarizer (slim helps prevent vignetting on wide angle lenses)." CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:00:37.130" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5367" PostId="4608" Text="Well that's what I thought. DOF is not consistent with a crop either. I'm going to blame a piece of wondering fluff in front of the lens :)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:09:00.913" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5368" PostId="4279" Text="I should probably add that for a more public non-commercial use (eg: something a non-profit would use), I'd recommend checking with the artist." CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:18:01.050" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="5369" PostId="4517" Text="You posted a photo!  There is a fair amount of contrast in this photo, but none in his face :)  Two thoughts: you need more actual contrast on the face (e.g. different light, say coming from the side), and you could improve the contrast on the face easily, but it might be hard to avoid blowing out the shirt." CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:29:22.470" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5370" PostId="4517" Text="Can you post the original photo?" CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:29:46.603" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5371" PostId="4517" Text="OK, I've uploaded the image. This was a cloudy day with no flash. Using Nikon d40 with the kit lens." CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:30:36.650" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5372" PostId="4517" Text="Cloudy days produce nice/even/safe light, but not interesting light. See my photo below." CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:33:48.080" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5373" PostId="4524" Text="@Itai: sorry, I meant photos (not phones!)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T19:36:03.740" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5374" PostId="4372" Text="Thanks, Jon. I appreciate it. Going neat places is great for photography, but I think if you put your mind to it you can still find lots of great pictures in places where you go every single day. Thanks again for the complement." CreationDate="2010-11-03T20:17:50.277" UserId="1469" />
  <row Id="5375" PostId="4524" Text="@Alex: Ah, OK. Yes there is no post post-processing except for panorama assembly, one crop and one rotation. That's absolutely it. They are all JPEGs of the highest quality. All of Guatemala (http://www.neoluminance.com/query.php?gallery=Guatemala) was shot with a Pentax K-7, Panama with a K10D. Several cameras of different brands were used in the remaining galleries." CreationDate="2010-11-03T20:33:56.207" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5376" PostId="4599" Text="Thanks...now I don't feel so guilty about keeping the button on AV and constantly adjusting the EC!  (On my EOS 550 there's little difference between this and manual exposure anyway; it's exactly the same set of button presses, but with their roles reversed between aperture priority and shutter speed priority.)" CreationDate="2010-11-03T20:44:39.473" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="5377" PostId="4614" Score="2" Text="Man jrista, you are an encyclopedia++!  I do care mostly about prints, and probably about fine art prints.  Thanks also for noting what D50 is, I'd seen that but didn't know what it meant." CreationDate="2010-11-03T21:01:40.270" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="5378" PostId="4614" Text="Now think that monitors could stand to have a menu of preprogrammed white points to switch between.  I suppose now you're going to tell me that isn't possible, because the ambient light and surrounding colors affect the perceived temperature of the &quot;white&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-03T21:04:24.110" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="5379" PostId="4614" Text="@jfklein: Actually, many screens do come with a white point (or often called 'color temperature') setting. You usually see that on cheaper screens, and it usually has preset valuesl ike 5000k, 6500k, 9300k. Some offer a range of temperatures from 2000k up through 10000k in 1000k increments, and some even offer direct control over red, green, and blue levels so you can completely customize it all. If you buy a hardware calibrator, like the i1 (which is actually pretty good), its best NOT to use onscreen settings. Leave them all at factory default. Let the calibration take care of it all." CreationDate="2010-11-03T21:13:15.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5380" PostId="4614" Text="Once you run through a calibration, the i1 should generate an ICC/ICM color profile that it will install into the system. Color profiles include all settings, including white point, gamma, etc., and adjust your screen appropriately. If you have your screen set to oddball settings, such as a white point of 6850k and an oddball gamma of 1.73, the calibrator has to work harder to correct all the differences. If you leave the screen at defaults, which is usually 6500k and gamma 2.2 (or possibly 1.8 for older mac screens), your calibrator will only have to make minor adjustments." CreationDate="2010-11-03T21:15:53.647" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5381" PostId="4616" Score="2" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4480/21" CreationDate="2010-11-03T21:40:18.863" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5382" PostId="4599" Text="Very well said. Exposure compensation is definitely the key way to control exposure. I try to avoid full manual mode unless I am using filtration or bulb mode, and use Av w/ EC most of the time. As you said, it is a great way to get quick, on-the-fly changes to metered exposure." CreationDate="2010-11-03T22:36:27.743" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5384" PostId="4621" Score="3" Text="B&amp;H's &quot;imported&quot; gear is gray market, yes." CreationDate="2010-11-04T00:48:16.203" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5385" PostId="4607" Text="P.S. I love the depth of field on the second shot. Fantastic." CreationDate="2010-11-04T00:54:52.350" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5387" PostId="4523" Text="The site I mentioned does all that.. I didn't say to &quot;just&quot; read MTF charts. I asked to read data _and_ mtf charts." CreationDate="2010-11-04T01:33:18.447" UserId="55" />
  <row Id="5388" PostId="3724" Text="@John, the Micke is a winner. For reference, it has two large drawers and two small drawers. The interior of the drawers is 9 1/4&quot; wide x 14 1/8&quot; deep x 7 1/2&quot; (large) or 4&quot; (small) high." CreationDate="2010-11-04T01:33:19.273" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5389" PostId="4517" Text="I took a shot at improving this image's contrast in photoshop in my 2nd answer below." CreationDate="2010-11-04T01:41:23.337" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5390" PostId="4576" Text="@sat, the point wasn't to compare it to photoshop, but to say that they're the same. You can use the photoshop tutes as a guide, and get the same functionality from The Gimp. :) This is applicable to lots of features that the two have in common, so if you're ever stuck trying to figure something out on the Gimp, google for the same feature name on photoshop and see if the answers make sense with the tools." CreationDate="2010-11-04T03:01:24.850" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="5391" PostId="3724" Text="@Reid, cool. Ikea is handy for this sort of thing, I've discovered. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-04T03:02:28.657" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5392" PostId="4484" Text="I use a similar approach in a number of applications with similar smart filtering/collecting. SmugMug, iTunes, LR... same basic approach in all of them." CreationDate="2010-11-04T03:04:31.983" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="5393" PostId="2628" Text="Just as an update, I've been shooting RAW only about two weeks after getting my 50D (about 2 1/2 months ago) and would never go back. The amount of image depth you get to use is mountains above JPEG (no pun intended). I've since made one of my friends switch to RAW last night and to get Lightroom and quit using Photoshop." CreationDate="2010-11-04T04:03:45.960" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5394" PostId="4576" Text="@Cabbey -- Yeah as in this case. Thank u :)" CreationDate="2010-11-04T05:46:10.390" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="5395" PostId="4565" Text="yes, indeed. 1.5 crop factor makes your 200mm actually 350mm.. but also, the quality of the sensor of the D3100 makes cropping another useful way to frame your picture even closer." CreationDate="2010-11-04T08:01:21.633" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5396" PostId="4589" Text="What extension tube did you use? Does it support autofocus?" CreationDate="2010-11-04T09:05:16.857" UserId="128" />
  <row Id="5397" PostId="1927" Text="+1 I have just made this jump for this exact reason and now have incorporated it as part of my workflow in lightroom 3" CreationDate="2010-11-04T10:54:06.060" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="5398" PostId="4150" Text="The reviews on Amazon say they should *add* magnetic strip reading, so that's the Coolscan IV out, too..." CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:28:16.530" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5399" PostId="3887" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/3770/21" CreationDate="2010-11-04T13:24:52.597" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5400" PostId="3751" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4284/21" CreationDate="2010-11-04T13:26:07.010" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5401" PostId="4572" Score="1" Text="@Matt Grum: But if I promise not to lean out or throw stuff out...?" CreationDate="2010-11-04T13:38:49.300" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="5402" PostId="2978" Text="After trying this a bit with the D90, it seems like it doesn't matter whether the card fills the frame or not.  More important seems setting the exposure right, so I'm selecting that as the right answer.  That said, it is enormously helpful to know that the card doesn't have to fill the frame in order to set the custom WB." CreationDate="2010-11-04T14:08:53.680" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="5403" PostId="4565" Text="Appreciate all the advice." CreationDate="2010-11-04T14:14:26.417" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5404" PostId="4621" Text="I use B&amp;H and buy their none-US warranty versions, because I'm also not in the US. Would Cannon (CPS) give me hassle if I had a warranty issue and I wasn't in the US? Don't know, it's never happened. I travel professionally to shoot though, and I would take a very dim view if they gave me trouble when their gear broke in some foreign place. People travel. I think the B&amp;H stuff comes with an &quot;international warranty&quot;, probably more use than the US version to me at least. B&amp;H are excellent and can ship quicker than local pro shops." CreationDate="2010-11-04T14:16:05.017" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="5405" PostId="2549" Score="3" Text="&quot;Natural light is so much better than flash. If you are shooting your own creations, place them on the table near a window during the day and get up on that lovely light!&quot;  This should be double bold! :)  My wife is a chef now and I was turning my photography skills to a food blog for her and I tried shooting in a studio setup but everything looked so fake.  Then I tried shooting near a window, wow!  Massive difference in lighting quality and 'tastiness'.  http://chef.smugmug.com/Other/foods/9205999_h2kt3#1074722337_p4zUm" CreationDate="2010-11-04T14:43:05.633" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5406" PostId="4633" Text="Thanks for your answer, but i am looking for tutorials on product photography" CreationDate="2010-11-04T15:19:08.647" UserId="2029" />
  <row Id="5407" PostId="4517" Text="What color filter did you use in B+W conversion? Perhaps filtering with a different color could help the contrast here." CreationDate="2010-11-04T19:36:43.977" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5408" PostId="4635" Text="Actually, i already have purchased the 3rd edition of Light Science and Magic. " CreationDate="2010-11-04T20:02:43.533" UserId="2029" />
  <row Id="5409" PostId="4624" Text="Someone told me of a good test. How does this sound. 1) Place the camera on a tripod and take a shot of say, a cereal box, something with text that the focus can be checked. Take the first shot on AF. 2) Next take a shot in manual using the 10x zoom function on the display. After, compare the two shots and if the first shot is out, either the lense or camera is focusing incorrectly on AF and may need calibration. I'm going to try this on Saturday and see how it goes. I'll report back..." CreationDate="2010-11-04T21:19:29.920" UserId="2026" />
  <row Id="5410" PostId="2978" Text="@jfklein: thanks for testing that out and posting about it for the rest of us." CreationDate="2010-11-04T21:21:52.770" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="5411" PostId="4626" Text="I'm based in Ireland, so not sure where in Ireland I can send it. It may need to go to London..." CreationDate="2010-11-04T21:23:29.010" UserId="2026" />
  <row Id="5412" PostId="3593" Text="I don't think a shot taken with a 24mm lens cropped down will look the same as a shot taken with a 85mm lens.  The perspective will be different." CreationDate="2010-11-04T22:33:42.637" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5413" PostId="4401" Text="The RC-6 works quite well. Thank you for the information." CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:12:19.157" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="5414" PostId="4624" Text="That's an idea, but take more than a couple of shots just to be sure." CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:52:57.560" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="5415" PostId="4626" Text="There ought to be a Canon certified repair centre (probably many) in Ireland. If you contact Canon customer services they should be able to advise you." CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:54:22.053" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5416" PostId="4610" Text="Between your two post, I think I'm getting a better idea to use different levels of light. Simple enough, tough to implment" CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:56:09.353" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5418" PostId="4623" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-05T00:14:46.613" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5419" PostId="4624" Text="Search around, there are questions about focus tests here. The test you describe isn't super reliable." CreationDate="2010-11-05T00:15:36.503" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5420" PostId="4647" Text="What kind of batteries are you using?" CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:35:46.480" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5421" PostId="4647" Text="@Reid kirkland." CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:37:23.697" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5422" PostId="4647" Text="I've noticed that the images when the flash doesn't go off, the value for &quot;Flash Mode&quot; in the picture info is blank. When it does go off, the value is &quot;Optional, TTL&quot;" CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:38:53.897" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5423" PostId="4649" Text="Sometimes the test button works, sometimes it doesn't. Right now it's not." CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:39:21.370" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5424" PostId="4649" Text="You may a faulty flash then. Is it new? If so, you might be able to get a warranty repair on it or at least have it checked out. That model supports other cameras as well, so if you have a friend with a different brand, you could get them to try it." CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:43:50.803" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5425" PostId="4649" Text="Is is old, and I did have a buddy try. Same luck. I thought perhaps it was a poor brand." CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:51:39.347" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5426" PostId="4649" Text="Well, they don't last forever, but I've had little problems with them before. That now leaves the possibility that the flash tube is done in or that the flash itself is. It would seem the latter given that it sometimes will work." CreationDate="2010-11-05T01:55:20.513" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5427" PostId="4647" Text="Right - alkaline? NiMH? other?" CreationDate="2010-11-05T02:15:27.133" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5428" PostId="4578" Score="1" Text="I learned something from each answer, thank you!  I chose the one that most succintly captured what I needed to know." CreationDate="2010-11-05T02:57:14.570" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5431" PostId="4626" Text="I'll look into that, I only know the Sigma one in Cork so wasn't sure if there was a Canon one also." CreationDate="2010-11-05T08:24:06.960" UserId="2026" />
  <row Id="5432" PostId="4624" Text="Will look into additional tests then, thanks all" CreationDate="2010-11-05T08:25:32.077" UserId="2026" />
  <row Id="5433" PostId="4487" Text="Wide-angles are cheap when you compare them to 300+mm fast fixes:)" CreationDate="2010-11-05T08:31:42.357" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="5434" PostId="4645" Score="2" Text="more info here : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Through-the-lens_metering" CreationDate="2010-11-05T14:27:43.553" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="5435" PostId="4639" Text="Great answer: little bias, good coverage, excellent explanations. Again, this site impresses me in particular on these &quot;dangerous&quot; questions." CreationDate="2010-11-05T14:49:30.113" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5436" PostId="4635" Text="Cool. What sort of information are you looking for online? " CreationDate="2010-11-05T15:06:50.040" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5437" PostId="4635" Text="Mostly video tutorials. I have taken a few photos of the products, but would like someone to comment on them" CreationDate="2010-11-05T15:13:14.287" UserId="2029" />
  <row Id="5438" PostId="4639" Text="@BBischof: Aye, these questions are challenging. :) But we like a good challenge (or at least, I do.) I want to reiterate, the Induro head has a degree of fine precision adjustments that nothing else really has, in multiple planes of freedom. If you want that precision, there really isn't anything else like it. However, if you want fluid freedom and ease of use, A Wimberley or Custom Brackets gimbal head would be a better choice." CreationDate="2010-11-05T16:36:09.740" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5439" PostId="4527" Text="Looking at that photo on an uncalibrated screen, it is a lot harder to see the differences. If you want to see the improvement offered by local contrast, I recommend saving both the original and the modified versions, opening them in a tool like photoshop, and using layers, align them on top of each other. Turning the top layer on and off will make the improvement very clear." CreationDate="2010-11-05T16:38:31.283" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5440" PostId="3309" Text="DNG is proprietary too, it is not owned by the same company that made the camera. The specification is available openly but because of how technology evolves, DNG has to change along too. There are special bits in there for SuperCCD sensors for example. I think it would be better to have camera makers produce a high bit-depth image, whether it be 16-bit PNG, OpenEXR or other but that it produce a complete image. RAW data is bound to require changes to any file-format because no one can predict what that data will mean." CreationDate="2010-11-05T16:42:43.530" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5441" PostId="4655" Score="1" Text="The shop owner may well benefit from the exposure such a website could generate. As for buying and drinking the beer that could cost hundreds and lead to some severely drunk shooting! None of this has anything to do with photography, however..." CreationDate="2010-11-05T17:42:57.553" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5442" PostId="4655" Text="Photograph them THEN drink them." CreationDate="2010-11-05T17:56:52.107" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="5443" PostId="4657" Text="I have a 4GB SanDisk Extreme III CF card, which claims to have a rate of 30MB/s. I'm not sure if that's read or write. Changing from large JPEG to small JPEG has no effect. I am shooting just JPEG, not RAW+JPEG. The camera doesn't try to autofocus between each shot, and setting the lens to manual doesn't change it either.&#xA;&#xA;However, when I set it to automatic (the green box), the max burst goes all of the way up to 47. But for all of the modes I normally shoot on, it says 8. I'll probably end up calling Canon and see what they say." CreationDate="2010-11-05T19:30:19.743" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5444" PostId="4657" Text="What is the *actual* burst when you hold down, not what is displayed?" CreationDate="2010-11-05T19:33:11.587" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5445" PostId="4658" Text="I'm shooting with a similar card (4GB SanDisk Extreme III CF card), but I only have 8 shots for the burst. And that's just taking large/fine JPEG. " CreationDate="2010-11-05T20:36:17.703" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5446" PostId="4660" Text="Is that burst value equivalent to camera's fps ?" CreationDate="2010-11-05T20:39:44.100" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5447" PostId="4660" Text="Nope, when a camera lists 'FPS' thats how fast it can take pictures 'Frames Per Second'.  The burst is how many frames it can take before having to slow down or stop taking pictures." CreationDate="2010-11-05T20:46:11.113" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5448" PostId="4658" Text="Is your card UDMA or non-UDMA?  Or, is your card close to full, ie only 8 photos left on the card? :)" CreationDate="2010-11-05T20:46:59.680" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5449" PostId="4658" Text="The card was just formatted. I'm not sure if it's UDMA or not. Here's the card: http://www.sandisk.com/products/dslr/sandisk-extreme-iii-compactflash" CreationDate="2010-11-05T21:03:46.823" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5450" PostId="4657" Text="The actual burst is well over 8. I haven't counted, but it seems to be more than 20." CreationDate="2010-11-05T21:04:56.120" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5452" PostId="4657" Score="2" Text="Note: The number there (8) isn't directly related to the number of shots you can take in a burst before it slows down.  Its the number of images the camera can buffer in memory before writing to the card.  Depending on the speed of writing to the card the number of images you can burst before slowing down can increase or decrease." CreationDate="2010-11-05T21:54:31.217" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5453" PostId="4658" Text="Kyle, something you mentioned before got me wondering what is your ISO?  Try setting it to 100, what does the number say now?  Also, try 'resetting all camera settings'.  I ask about the ISO because you said your # changes if you change to 'green square' which is a mode where the camera overrides what ISO you set." CreationDate="2010-11-05T21:55:41.853" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5454" PostId="4658" Text="Well, I haven't tried resetting all settings yet, but I have changed from 100 to H2 and everywhere in between...no difference." CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:35:08.177" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5455" PostId="4661" Text="That makes sense, but why would it be different in program mode than automatic?" CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:37:10.220" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5456" PostId="4661" Text="Is it really? On my 5D2 it's the same in both P and auto, and changes only when I change JPEG/RAW quality settings." CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:47:17.960" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5457" PostId="4658" Text="Yup, it turns out this card isn't UDMA. Drats! http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1023&amp;message=27672838" CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:47:44.763" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5458" PostId="4658" Text="Still, even if it wasn't UDMA the chart above says you should see '60' there if you're shooting JPEG L-fine so thats weird." CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:51:11.910" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5459" PostId="4636" Text="Ad 2) If you have external flash you can bounce it from wall or ceiling which results in much soft light than when you shoot directly." CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:51:15.683" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5460" PostId="4660" Score="1" Text="Related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4656/why-does-my-canon-50d-only-have-a-max-burst-of-8" CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:53:45.497" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5461" PostId="4658" Text="I think I'll be calling Canon next week. It must be a glitch in the firmware. " CreationDate="2010-11-05T22:59:07.933" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5462" PostId="4642" Text="+1 Good point about local contrast. Thats not noted enough, but its a very powerful technique." CreationDate="2010-11-05T23:34:40.377" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5463" PostId="4643" Text="Here's a relevant article from Strobist: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/04/on-assignment-add-light-to-reveal.html" CreationDate="2010-11-05T23:55:46.980" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5464" PostId="4629" Text="If you're using a point-and-shoot camera, it may have a scene mode for children. This should cause the camera to try to shoot with the fastest shutter speed possible." CreationDate="2010-11-06T00:04:51.883" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5465" PostId="4670" Text="Note this means that the catalog gets backed-up separately. It gets backed up with my user-data rather than with pictures because pictures NEVER change but a catalog can, since I can add keywords to old photos. This helps tremendously with backups because the pictures volumes can be backed-up incrementally while data volumes are backed-up entirely each two weeks." CreationDate="2010-11-06T00:46:42.087" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5466" PostId="934" Text="Amazing quality answers here! This is one time where I feel like up-voting most of the answers :) Well done everyone!" CreationDate="2010-11-06T00:50:54.163" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5467" PostId="3992" Score="1" Text="+1 as I 100% agree with you and, until today, you missed one: dynamic range. On this day, an APS-C camera blew past FF and medium format: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/%28appareil1%29/676|0/%28appareil2%29/485|0/%28appareil3%29/579|0/%28onglet%29/0/%28brand%29/Pentax/%28brand2%29/Nikon/%28brand3%29/Phase%20One :) " CreationDate="2010-11-06T02:58:57.477" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5468" PostId="4666" Text="+1 for the nice simple examples" CreationDate="2010-11-06T03:41:19.067" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5469" PostId="4104" Text="I got confused by this initially too.  John's answer below is correct." CreationDate="2010-11-06T03:58:39.743" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5470" PostId="4655" Text="Thanks for your input, though it is a bit irrelevant to my original question.  I am on great terms with my local beer stores, and have purchased more than my fair share of beer from them over the years.  I plan on practicing my technique with the bottles I already have at home, and once I get a system down, going into the store for an hour or so to take as many shots as time will allow.&#xA;&#xA;In fact, I built a light box last weekend and am still working on tweaking it to get the lighting right. This will allow me and a team to rapidly shoot/swap out bottles with minimal disruption." CreationDate="2010-11-06T04:24:07.807" UserId="1637" />
  <row Id="5471" PostId="4660" Score="1" Text="I get it. It's some kind of RAM that a camera has. I'm relating it to computers though, but I guess this pretty much explains the fact." CreationDate="2010-11-06T04:36:50.807" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5472" PostId="942" Text="Consistent exposure is vital in many sequenced shots in particular (as I realised once...)." CreationDate="2010-11-06T06:20:53.987" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5473" PostId="2529" Text="+1 on flash photography. I typically expose for around 1/60th on ISO 800-1250 or so when in dark environments using the flash and I typically get fantastic results as all that background colour fills the rest of the photo. Here is an example in a dark bar/venue: f/5.0 ISO 1250 1/60th http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickbedford/5134731839/" CreationDate="2010-11-06T06:27:43.993" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5474" PostId="4673" Text="Thanks for the reply, The 550d here is way out of budget, i might have to go in for the d3100" CreationDate="2010-11-06T08:41:08.290" />
  <row Id="5475" PostId="2631" Text="Despite that there's no standard for RAW format, the purpose of the format is the same -- to keep the raw pixel data as obtained from the sensor. Because it is non-standardized format, the vendor might choose to drop few bits from the sensor data as they see appropriate (I wouldn't if I were the vendor). However, no vendor would go that far using lossy JPEG as RAW format, because it would destroy the purpose of having RAW format at the first place.   " CreationDate="2010-11-06T10:29:50.910" UserId="2061" />
  <row Id="5476" PostId="4679" Score="2" Text="This program will allow you to preview RAW thumbnails http://www.fastpictureviewer.com/codecs/" CreationDate="2010-11-06T16:56:06.297" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5477" PostId="4665" Text="Back in the Lightroom 1 days, there were issues with performance with big catalogs.  That's been fixed with LR 2 and 3, so there's no reason to split things up yearly.  With separate catalogs like this, you're unable to quickly find, say, all photos of Halloween or all Landscapes." CreationDate="2010-11-06T17:08:30.293" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="5479" PostId="4680" Score="2" Text="TIFF isn't by any means a simple format; it's actually insanely complex with lots of options and variations. If you want a simple, well-supported non-lossy format, choose PNG. Regarding data errors, if you're worried about that, leaving things uncompressed is a poor way to address it; what you want is computed redundancy (e.g., PAR2) for the whole archive, since data-loss errors are going to take out many disk blocks at once (i.e., most of a file at least), not a few bytes here and there." CreationDate="2010-11-06T17:40:37.590" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5480" PostId="4668" Text="Replace 'for file in *l; do;' with 'foreach filename (*);' if you are using tcsh or csh." CreationDate="2010-11-06T18:19:20.967" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5481" PostId="3395" Score="1" Text="There's no good reason for an item to refuse to work with functionally-equivalent 3rd party accessories. I think @Jason is right to be steamed and not trying to cheat anyone." CreationDate="2010-11-06T18:25:25.510" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5482" PostId="4681" Text="Why the downvote? some good info there. I would like to add though that TIFF is an acronym, Raw is a proper noun ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-06T18:40:14.420" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5483" PostId="3386" Text="Sorry for being flippant but the obvious answer is: buy a Panasonic battery. I know it's annoying when manufacturers jack up the price on basic items, but it all goes to subsidise the lenses and camera bodies at the end of the day." CreationDate="2010-11-06T18:46:24.460" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5484" PostId="4680" Text="Fair enough. I meant it's a straight up bitmap format (if you don't use compression), unlike something like JPEG, which if you opened up would be very difficult to make any sense out of without documentation." CreationDate="2010-11-06T18:48:31.383" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5485" PostId="4680" Text="Also, keep in mind that you could lose some metadata when converting from proprietary RAW to DNG." CreationDate="2010-11-06T19:10:10.400" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5486" PostId="2108" Text="Possible duplicate of: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2108/best-practices-with-lightroom-libraries/" CreationDate="2010-11-06T19:15:20.427" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5487" PostId="4677" Score="4" Text="As a recent owner of the d3100, the autofocus is nice, but makes ALOT of noise.  If you're not in a noisy setting, its very noticeable on playback.  And there's no external jack.  The D3100 shoots great video, but the audio stinks unless you're going to record audio otherwise and sync later." CreationDate="2010-11-06T19:17:59.300" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5488" PostId="4677" Text="@rfusca: Are you using a lens with a screw-driven autofocus? I would imagine that it would be much quieter with the Nikon &quot;Silent Wave Motor&quot; AF if it's anything like the Pentax SDM or Sigma HSM which I find to be basically noiseless. In any case, noise would probably vary by lens." CreationDate="2010-11-06T19:27:13.067" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5489" PostId="4680" Score="3" Text="I'm very happy that my camera supports DNG natively, sames some time... In any case, disk is cheap, so I too keep the raw data. That choice is much more flexible. If you're on Windows Vista or 7, there are image libraries that will display the DNG in Windows Explorer and picture viewer (for 32 and 64 bit Windows), so I don't usually keep a lot of the JPEGs around." CreationDate="2010-11-06T19:32:28.930" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5490" PostId="2108" Text="Barring significant objection, I'll merge this topic with the one noted by Chills and Sebastian in a couple hours, as they are duplicates of each other. " CreationDate="2010-11-06T20:09:02.697" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5492" PostId="4684" Score="1" Text="+1 on &quot;just replace it&quot;. FWIW, that lens can be had on KEH starting at $76: http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Digital-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-DN079990829920?r=FE (you don't get caps, but you can use the ones on the broken lens)" CreationDate="2010-11-06T21:12:51.673" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5493" PostId="4375" Text="Just tried hand holding some shots, and added them to this website Flickr group at: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1585269@N22/ Definitely need a tripod though :)" CreationDate="2010-11-06T21:13:20.667" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5494" PostId="4681" Score="2" Text="I don't think the future-proofing argument holds for TIFF vs. raw - since the TIFF format is so complicated, it's easy to have a &quot;TIFF&quot; even now that can't be opened by some programs. On the other hand, all the major raw formats are supported by open-source software which isn't going away." CreationDate="2010-11-06T21:17:15.153" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5495" PostId="4677" Text="@John Cavan: Very true, but the lens is a AF-S, which according to Nikon is a &quot;Silent Wave Motor&quot;.  http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/glossary.htm#swm   Check noises here (not me, but a good example): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTGOHwGGd0U" CreationDate="2010-11-06T21:28:00.217" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5497" PostId="4647" Text="@Reid alkaline." CreationDate="2010-11-06T22:39:37.207" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5498" PostId="4677" Text="Hmm, yeah I heard it. I wonder if that is being transmitted through the body?" CreationDate="2010-11-06T22:42:30.777" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5499" PostId="4665" Text="I guess if you're not running a more powerful computer and you're having performance issues, it's probably the next best step. I personally haven't gotten to four months of photos yet so I'm yet to see." CreationDate="2010-11-06T23:21:32.207" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5500" PostId="4690" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-06T23:58:44.640" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5501" PostId="4647" Text="Alkaline batteries will perform very poorly in high-current applications like a flash; it might very well be chewing through your batteries in only two shots. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/570/what-attributes-should-i-look-for-when-buying-batteries-for-a-flash for more." CreationDate="2010-11-07T00:03:29.260" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5502" PostId="4694" Score="1" Text="Doesn't pressing the shutter button also set the focus? What if I want to spot meter at a spot that is not the main focus point of the picture" CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:07:52.073" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5503" PostId="4694" Score="1" Text="You can 'expose and recompose' by hitting your exposure lock button on what you want to expose and then recompose the scene and shoot. Or, depending on how your exposure lock is setup you can also accomplish this by pressing the shutter half way down." CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:14:00.600" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5504" PostId="4694" Text="@Shizam - That's what I said in the second paragraph :) AE-L = Auto-Exposure Lock. On some cameras it is AE-L/AF-L which locks focus as well but a custom setting often allows to change the button to AE-l only." CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:21:25.677" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5505" PostId="4694" Text="@Aditya - Sometimes, depending on how your camera is set up. That is usually the case, so you should prefer the AE-L button in most cases over press the shutter-halfway. You can configure many DSLRs the other way around though." CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:23:21.467" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5506" PostId="4696" Score="1" Text="Btw, if you use gimp, I'd suggest also getting the FX-foundry plugin pack: http://gimpfx-foundry.sourceforge.net/" CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:23:34.710" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5507" PostId="4694" Text="@Itai - thanks. I'll go and read my camera's (D60) manual." CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:39:04.563" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="5508" PostId="4694" Score="1" Text="@Aditya, you can also put the camera in manual mode, and then whatever exposure you set (with the assistance of any metering mode you like) then sticks." CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:45:41.397" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5509" PostId="4693" Score="2" Text="I think you and the OP may be giving different meanings to the term &quot;photo editing&quot; as used in the question." CreationDate="2010-11-07T01:47:26.340" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5510" PostId="4679" Text="@BBischof You need to buy the software. I do not need additional program." CreationDate="2010-11-07T03:02:40.460" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="5511" PostId="4686" Text="is there any way you can view it from Thumbnails in Windows Explorer without opening a software?" CreationDate="2010-11-07T03:06:48.323" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="5512" PostId="4688" Score="1" Text="Did the flash fire?" CreationDate="2010-11-07T03:22:35.123" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5513" PostId="4700" Score="1" Text="I'm a software dev too, so I definitely understand the face-to-face or phone review being better." CreationDate="2010-11-07T03:43:41.783" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5514" PostId="4679" Text="Ok no problem, I just wanted to let you know of it's existance. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-07T05:19:34.003" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5515" PostId="4690" Score="3" Text="If you are a student, or have a close friend/relative who is, you can get it cheaper." CreationDate="2010-11-07T05:22:14.470" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5516" PostId="4686" Text="I use Ubuntu Linux so can't reply to that question. But Picasa (in Windows and Linux) does a fine job of of viewing and organising RAW/DNG photos." CreationDate="2010-11-07T05:52:59.563" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5517" PostId="4690" Score="5" Text="The link you gave (activedownsite) is definitely a pirate site. Look at the bottom of the page where they say 'Copyright © 2010 Microsoft', which is ludicrous. Apart from ethical concerns, there is a good chance that software from this site is infected with trojans." CreationDate="2010-11-07T07:04:02.310" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5518" PostId="4696" Score="1" Text="I have long used Picasa and Gimp and can recommend them as an effective solution." CreationDate="2010-11-07T07:08:37.673" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5519" PostId="4699" Text="Thanks for the site recommendation, i will also looking for such a service.  I will certainly register over there." CreationDate="2010-11-07T09:44:32.160" UserId="2029" />
  <row Id="5520" PostId="4700" Text="Yes, camera clubs are a good way to get feedback. They also provide a powerful stimulus to take photos and are a great learning environment." CreationDate="2010-11-07T10:36:00.927" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5521" PostId="4694" Score="1" Text="You don't have to use spot metering to calibrate on midtone. If you have someones face in middle of black area, you can use spot metering together with exposure compensation to have the proper exposure for the face and ignore the rest." CreationDate="2010-11-07T11:26:10.793" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5522" PostId="4702" Text="I have a D90 and find that my 35-70mm 2.8 is the best lens so far for portraits - I also have the 50mm 1.4 and the 105 2.8." CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:15:07.690" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="5523" PostId="4146" Text="Thanks Andre, Its a nice camera, but i would prefer &quot; Canon PowerShot SD1300 IS&quot; rather than this.. what do you suggest" CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:20:48.263" UserId="1690" />
  <row Id="5524" PostId="3992" Score="1" Text="**@John Cavan** Actually I mentioned DR in the 4th point. As for the K-5, it's an excellent sensor, for sure, but it only wins in the DR stakes at low ISOs (where the noise floor will dominate the DR reading) at higher ISOs FF sensors such as the 5D have greater DR. Given a perfect electonics (i.e. a sensor with zero light loss that simply counts photons) a bigger sensor will yield greater dynamic range *every time*." CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:29:26.543" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5525" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista: &quot;The question is, *exactly how?*&quot; They measure sensitivity by finding [experimentally] at what exposure value the sensor becomes saturated, according to ISO standard 12232. &quot;Similarly-sized screens/prints can be very subjective in their own right&quot; what they mean by similarly sized prints is that someone with a 20mp camera doesn't view their photos on a screen four times larger than someone with a 5mp camera, if you read on they then normalize to **exactly 8 megapixels** which is not subjective at all! IMO you can trust DXO at lot more than figures from your camera manufacturer..." CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:42:54.320" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5526" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista &quot;I know that I get 12 bits per pixel, or 36bit images, when using RAW with my camera. It still indicates that DXO-Mark is off the mark, and their results are very suspect&quot; when they say 21.6 bit per pixel they mean 21 bits of **information** not 21 bits of **data**. Most of the 4294967296 RGB value combinations you get with 36bit colour are impossible, due to the fact that for example red pixels are also sensitive to green and blue light, and this overlap reduces the number of **different** colours you can expect to get from the sensor." CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:52:53.050" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5527" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista &quot;Regarding my own measurements...&quot; you have **estimated** the dynamic range based on your own definition of what is *&quot;usable&quot;*, so you can expect the results will differ. DXO measures DR by finding the point at which the SNR is equal to 1 (i.e. the last point at which the signal is greater than the noise). This is more scientific than asking people what they consider to be usable. However I would expect the DXO scores to correlate strongly to what you experience so you can still use them, but remember to subtract 3 stops to get to what you consider usable." CreationDate="2010-11-07T12:59:17.897" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5528" PostId="4698" Score="2" Text="You can check our stackexchange chat room: http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/14 and see if there are any upcoming photo-critique sessions, or otherwise if there are people chatting.  I'm sure most there would be willing to offer their critique." CreationDate="2010-11-07T13:45:15.127" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5529" PostId="4707" Score="3" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/556/what-are-the-key-photography-related-features-from-photoshop-that-are-missing-in" CreationDate="2010-11-07T16:05:39.583" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5530" PostId="4707" Text="...and welcome!" CreationDate="2010-11-07T16:07:20.660" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5531" PostId="4702" Score="7" Text="Credit cards have insane interest and shouldn't be used for routine loans, only emergencies." CreationDate="2010-11-07T16:10:47.230" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5532" PostId="4707" Text="Also, it would be helpful if you told us more about what you're trying to do. What kind of manipulations are you hoping to accomplish?" CreationDate="2010-11-07T16:46:30.280" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5533" PostId="4707" Text="Good point. Added more info." CreationDate="2010-11-07T16:52:11.343" UserId="2082" />
  <row Id="5534" PostId="4711" Text="Out of curiosity what is your organizational use case?" CreationDate="2010-11-07T18:18:50.950" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5535" PostId="4687" Text="Also see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2990/metering-mode-in-panasonic-fz35 and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/597/situations-suited-to-spot-metering" CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:00:58.747" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="5536" PostId="4714" Score="4" Text="Gimp is a very capable package that will perform virtually all editing operations that even an advanced photographer would need. I routinely use Gimp with good results." CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:17:39.970" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5537" PostId="4461" Text="&quot;Most of the 4294967296 RGB value combinations you get with 36bit color are impossible&quot;. Unless I am mistaken, a 36bit image offers a total of 68,719,476,736 distinct RGB values. That is the number of distinct shades of each color (there are only about 2-3 colors detectable by the human eye, but the eye can detect far more shades of each color). I agree, you are not going to get perfect color with a Bayer array. DXO does not clearly state what that &quot;21.6 bits of information&quot; is. You usually don't rate an analog signal in bits, so if they are measuring an analog, they need a better unit. (dB?)" CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:33:07.007" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5538" PostId="4461" Text="Regarding my own measurements, they seem to be in line with what most other photography review sites (such as dpreview.com) state. I get between 7-8 stops of dynamic range on the 450D. If what you say about subtracting three stops from DXO's measurements is true, then their numbers are also in line with everyone else (10.7 stops - 3 stops = 7.7 stops, or between 7-8 stops of DR.) I am not sure where DXO states that you need to subtract 3 stops to get a real-world value for DR...if that is the case, they need to make that more obvious, as just looking at their raw data is misleading." CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:37:00.743" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5539" PostId="4461" Text="Regarding image size...if they &quot;normalize&quot; all images to exactly 8mp, then the images they compare are not objective. By scaling down images, they are applying some kind of interpolation and filtration to the raw sensor output. If their measurements are based on post-scaled images, then I can't help but question their results. If they crop, that is a different story, as cropping would at least retain as much information from the sensor as possible. Even with cropping, the image contents between sensors will not be identical, so you have another problem. Again, exactly what DXO does here is..." CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:40:44.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5540" PostId="4710" Score="2" Text="I would mention the dave hill effect in the title." CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:41:18.443" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5541" PostId="4461" Text="...rather vague. They state many times that they normalize all images to an 8mp image 'printed' on an 8x12 (20cm x 30cm) image at 300dpi. They also state that it is &quot;exactly&quot; 8mp, however an 8x12@300dpi print is 8.6mp (3600x2400). If DXO has a page somewhere where they clearly and precisely state exactly how they do things, and it all adds up, they can clear their name with me, and I'll accept their results. But after digging through their site for a while, I have not found such a page. (Please send a link if you know of such a page, I would be very interested in reading it.)" CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:43:41.970" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5542" PostId="4710" Text="@Davy ok thanks, that is a good suggestion. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:49:12.820" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5543" PostId="4686" Text="@Digital Dude: BBischof's already told you how to &quot;view it from Thumbnails in Windows Explorer without opening a software&quot; - there are a number of available packages that, when installed, will display thumbnails for raw files in Windows Explorer.  Whether you are prepared to pay a small fee for that functionality is a different matter." CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:04:33.440" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5544" PostId="4693" Text="I can agree that compared to something like full Photoshop, Lightroom as an editor could be described as &quot;basic&quot;.  However, as a statement on it's own about Lightroom, I don't believe describing Lightroom as a &quot;basic editor&quot; does it justice.  I believe a lot of photographers hardly ever feel the need to use something like Photoshop anymore, finding Lightroom's set of tools more than sufficient in a lot of cases (I know I do, although I'm only an enthusiastic amateur).  I agree that the OP's original quote about being told that &quot;LR is the only way to go&quot; is a somewhat blinkered statement." CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:13:15.913" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5545" PostId="4660" Text="@Rish, the word I think you're looking for is &quot;buffer&quot;. When the buffer is full, the camera's FPS will drop while it offloads the images to your card." CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:15:19.780" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5546" PostId="4677" Text="I don't think so, if you place your ear the approximate distance from the lens that the mic is, then its about the same level.  My AF-S lens is definitely not &quot;silent&quot;.  Its very quiet under normal circumstances, but I don't find it any surprise that the noise is picked up as such on the camera.  Video on DSLs seems to still kind of fledging (but thriving it seems) and as this is the first (or one of the first) with the auto focus, I'm sure they'll engineer around it in the future." CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:36:51.493" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5547" PostId="4717" Score="4" Text="Holy carp! Awesome answer! Thanks for your post!" CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:53:16.687" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5548" PostId="4711" Text="I like to have my images separated by year, for example." CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:58:33.250" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5549" PostId="4715" Text="Nice, I didn't notice this. I had some sets in a collection and it didn't let me add another collection inside... Thanks." CreationDate="2010-11-07T20:59:34.387" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5550" PostId="4717" Score="3" Text="Holy Carp? http://images.elfwood.com/art/e/n/envy/holy_carp.jpg" CreationDate="2010-11-07T21:00:25.453" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5552" PostId="4717" Text="Precisely... ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-07T21:15:27.660" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5553" PostId="4636" Text="@che-- true, that's definitely a possibility. " CreationDate="2010-11-07T22:21:04.027" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="5554" PostId="4717" Text="@BBischof Thanks for your comment by the way! I've added a second example that goes into a lot more detail about the post processing that you can use on such setups for when you can't do it all with light. It's still all about *enhancing* not *replacing* good lighting though! Happy shooting... " CreationDate="2010-11-07T22:43:54.393" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5555" PostId="4706" Text="This coupled with a general knowledge of &quot;typical&quot; exposure settings for a given lit environment will mean you can nail the exposure quicker too. For example, night time flash portraits will typically demand a shutter speed &lt; 1/80th, higher ISO, say 800-1000 and medium aperture of f5 to f8 (for larger depth of field)." CreationDate="2010-11-07T23:05:31.340" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5556" PostId="4717" Text="@Matt No problem! You deserve a lot more credit than just my vote! It is going to take me some time to digest this, there are some words I don't know, but I appreciate the time you have put into this. I will get back to you with any questions. " CreationDate="2010-11-07T23:26:21.443" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5557" PostId="4693" Text="@Conor - Don't worry, some of us like myself never edit passed crop and rotation. My wife on the other hand transforms images in ways that can't even be started in Lightroom. One of the beauties of Lightroom is that it is basic and therefore easy to learn. Photoshop can be quite daunting on the other hand but is extremely powerful." CreationDate="2010-11-08T00:57:25.087" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5558" PostId="4719" Score="5" Text="Absolutely agree. The rule is to use a UV filter ONLY when the lens is in eminent danger. Near salt-water or a sand-storm counts as danger. If you are worried about impact on the front-element, then even just a simple hard lens hood will help." CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:03:02.467" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5559" PostId="4710" Text="The lighting in the second skylove example is delicious." CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:13:55.807" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5560" PostId="4719" Score="1" Text="+1 on using a hood, that'll save the element from all but the most determined projectile :)" CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:20:22.767" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5561" PostId="4721" Score="2" Text="Great examples." CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:29:51.087" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5562" PostId="4718" Text="Schof, welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:46:38.907" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5563" PostId="4719" Score="1" Text="+1. Skip the filter; you don't need it." CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:48:03.993" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5564" PostId="4719" Score="1" Text="+1. I don't buy into the filter as protection either." CreationDate="2010-11-08T02:13:28.190" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5565" PostId="4717" Score="2" Text="+1, it is an awesome answer. It's always about the lighting. Some post processing techniques can get you in shooting distance, but the &quot;Dave Hill Technique&quot; still requires some serious light work up front to really get it right. However, by saying it's about the lighting in photography is like saying it's about the breathing in life. ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-08T04:07:06.563" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5566" PostId="4686" Text="Beware of viewing RAW thumbnails. RAW files are not images, they have to be transformed. When you 'see' a RAW file as a thumbnail or preview (i.e. before developing it), you see something which may not look as expected and often looks dull and different from the image you expect to see. 'Why do my RAw images look so aweful' IS one of the most frequent questions people ask about RAW files! DNG is the same in this regards." CreationDate="2010-11-08T04:14:32.240" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5567" PostId="4699" Score="1" Text="Before deciding that you want comments, you should decide who you want comments from. Photography is art and not all opinions will lead you to the path you seek.&#xA;I did not know about this site but I saw some superb images but also ones that are so manipulated it is nauseating.&#xA;&#xA;Food for thought: Jay Maisel says 'if you are not your harshest critic, you are your own worst enemy'. No one should be able to trash you work more than yourself, that's how you're going to push your own limits beyond what everyone is willing to tell you." CreationDate="2010-11-08T04:16:00.573" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5568" PostId="3395" Text="Panasonic being one of the biggest battery manufacturers, I would be highly surprised if they were not the OEM. Lenmar probably makes a poor clone. For other brands of cameras which are not battery-manufacturers, like Canon, Nikon and Pentax, you can probably find the OEM and buy the equivalent battery from them." CreationDate="2010-11-08T04:24:50.030" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5569" PostId="4684" Score="1" Text="We had the lens looked at today, and were told it might be repairable, but it would cost more than it was worth. So we picked up the 35mm f1.8 DX lens. Problem solved!" CreationDate="2010-11-08T05:18:36.737" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="5570" PostId="4729" Text="Thanks! I just check that out!" CreationDate="2010-11-08T08:40:13.320" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="5571" PostId="4715" Text="@Carles I found it &quot;less than obvious&quot; that a collection could only contain one type of thing, but I do do this myself with a few collections" CreationDate="2010-11-08T08:45:37.840" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5572" PostId="4684" Score="1" Text="Excellent! Glad you're back shooting, plus the 35 is a great lens." CreationDate="2010-11-08T08:53:18.223" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5573" PostId="4723" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/164/21" CreationDate="2010-11-08T08:53:42.747" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5574" PostId="4717" Score="2" Text="@john too right - photography *is* light. Learning how light works goes much further than portrait photos like this. " CreationDate="2010-11-08T09:29:33.753" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5575" PostId="1871" Score="1" Text="Wavelet denoising techniques are surprisingly effective. The main cost to this is the extra time taken to adjust the wavelet denoising parameters. Gimp has a good plugin to do this http://registry.gimp.org/node/4235" CreationDate="2010-11-08T10:05:23.280" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5576" PostId="4686" Text="@Itai: many cameras now store thumbnails/previews in the RAW image file. These thumbnails are what you would see if you had saved as a jpeg instead of RAW." CreationDate="2010-11-08T10:55:24.667" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5577" PostId="499" Score="1" Text="i've used topaz denoise too - it's very impressive" CreationDate="2010-11-08T11:09:51.177" UserId="583" />
  <row Id="5578" PostId="692" Text="From Sigma's page (http://www.sigmaphoto.com/shop/70-200mm-f28-ex-dg-apomacro-hsm-ii-sigma) - &quot;HSM (Hyper-Sonic Motor) ensures a quiet &amp; high-speed auto focus&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-08T13:11:56.563" UserId="1787" />
  <row Id="5579" PostId="3407" Score="1" Text="@Rowland, a Real Photographer would realize that it's all about The Image. Nothing is too expensive nor excessive for a Real Photographer. ;) Maybe you need to read Luminous Landscape some more." CreationDate="2010-11-08T13:16:36.800" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5580" PostId="4723" Text="@Sheikh, welcome to our community!" CreationDate="2010-11-08T13:28:37.007" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5582" PostId="4699" Text="I'm going to accept this answer because its a pretty good site after looking around on it for a few days now, but I think 1x.com is a little post-processing heavy for my current tastes. " CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:16:50.173" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5583" PostId="4736" Text="In principal this will work though success will depend entirely on how close the second glare image is and how well you register it with the original.  " CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:36:35.837" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5584" PostId="4735" Text="Wow - that's pretty impressive.  I guess that underscores the importance of saving all those marginal shots (preferably in RAW).  You never know when medical science will advance to the point where the patient can be saved." CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:41:24.007" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="5585" PostId="4699" Text="Ok, I guess I am bad at spotting post processing. But then again, I hang out in the Macro section." CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:46:45.687" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5586" PostId="4736" Text="@Matt Yes, it's going to be imperfect.  That's why I made sure to include the registration step, for otherwise there's almost no hope of success.  The idea is not to get rid of the glare but to reduce it enough to improve the original picture without introducing even worse artifacts.  In the spirit of recovering what is possible from this photo, given the impossibility of reshooting, do you think there is a better procedure?" CreationDate="2010-11-08T14:54:41.263" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="5587" PostId="4725" Text="Possible duplicate of: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3088/tips-for-shooting-in-an-aquarium or http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4570/tips-for-shooting-through-a-skyscraper-airplane-or-train-window" CreationDate="2010-11-08T15:06:48.243" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5588" PostId="4735" Text="@D. Lambert: Always hold on. Yesterday I took a shot that was 8 stops underexposed on my K-5 and was able to recover what was essentially a black box into a quite usable image." CreationDate="2010-11-08T15:18:26.870" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5589" PostId="4732" Score="2" Text="+1 Look into lightroom, I read several reviews now of people ditching Noise Ninja because lightroom has gotten that good and its more integrated." CreationDate="2010-11-08T16:35:15.267" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5590" PostId="936" Score="1" Text="@Eruditass: I tried this on some family portraits over this last weekend after reading this note - going manual with the same settings for the whole session to make post processing easier- and it was great! Made my life in post much easier.  Thanks." CreationDate="2010-11-08T16:48:33.250" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5591" PostId="4740" Text="Offhand, Sumo paint actually looks pretty impressive for what it is." CreationDate="2010-11-08T17:25:00.083" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5592" PostId="4150" Text="@Rowland: So it appears...I though I had read somewhere that it did read the magnetic strip. I've done all the searches known to mankind on this subject. The only additional piece of information I can offer is &quot;Magnetic IX (Information Exchange)&quot; is another term to search for. Outside of the Fuji Minilab, there does not appear to be any other device on earth capable of reading the APS magnetic strip." CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:00:33.863" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5593" PostId="4735" Text="@Matt Grum -- This is just too good !! Its such an enlightening piece of knowledge and Information (to me at least !!) " CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:00:52.693" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="5594" PostId="4660" Text="Oh Yes! Buffer sounds like a better word in this case :)" CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:20:15.133" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5595" PostId="4742" Score="1" Text="These are great suggestions for macro on the cheap, one aside though.  A single snowflake is _really_ tiny, even a 1:1 macro shot won't come close to filling the frame w/a snow flake.  If you want to get reeeeely close to something the MP-E 65 is the solution.  I know its really expensive but you could rent it for a weekend for $34 of reckless abandon shooting snowflakes: http://www.borrowlenses.com/product/canon_macro/Canon_65mm_MP-E_Macro 5x magnification!" CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:23:16.643" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5596" PostId="4742" Text="yeah I was about to comment on that part of the question, imo photographing a snowflake with no macro experience is going to be extremely difficult..." CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:25:18.223" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5597" PostId="4735" Text="Stuff like this is still more theoretical than practical, but a lot of the stuff that's now standard in Photoshop (content aware scaling for example) first appeared in scientific journals." CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:35:25.750" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5598" PostId="4150" Score="1" Text="I did at one point have a Kodak brochure that showed a scanner that would fit in a 5 1/4 &quot; drive bay. This is the very early days of APS (1996) so it may have been a planned product that never hit the market." CreationDate="2010-11-08T18:45:42.917" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5599" PostId="4742" Score="1" Text="You are not necessarily stuck with maximum aperture when using reversers or cheap extension tubes. There is a &quot;trick&quot; you can use where you put your lens onto your camera as normal, set the aperture to what you want, hold the DOF button down, and then remove the lens while the DOF button is down. Now, the lens is stuck in the new aperture. I'm not sure if there are dangers involved in this, but it worked for me and my lens is fine. " CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:01:33.947" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="5600" PostId="4655" Text="I agree my input wasn't immediately relevant, but I did want to mention an alternate approach in case you hadn't considered it. Good luck with the project." CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:14:57.470" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="5601" PostId="538" Text="I'm with Dave Van den Eynde.  I have NeatImage, and it works well, but after moving to LR3, I rarely use any specific NR tools other than those that LR3 provides." CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:20:32.090" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5602" PostId="4741" Score="2" Text="You can make your life a little easier by perserving the snowflake in super glue." CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:31:45.297" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5603" PostId="4743" Text="+1 I've had great success with the telephoto + reverse prime macro. I picked up an old olympus 50mm for $10 on eBay, and have used it on various cameras (purchasing the appropriate step-up or step-down rings) for years." CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:53:00.557" UserId="2100" />
  <row Id="5604" PostId="561" Text="For raw images, I've been using UFraw - http://ufraw.sourceforge.net/" CreationDate="2010-11-08T20:21:18.813" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="5605" PostId="4732" Score="1" Text="+1 for Lightroom 3. With LR2, their noise reduction was pretty poor, but LR3 really pushes the envelope. I've been able to clean up some very badly noisy images shot at ISO1600 that couldn't be fixed before." CreationDate="2010-11-08T20:45:24.550" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5606" PostId="4741" Score="1" Text="Here's a how-to on the [super glue snowflake preservation method](http://www.ehow.com/how_2062910_save-snowflakes.html)." CreationDate="2010-11-08T20:49:20.580" UserId="2100" />
  <row Id="5607" PostId="4739" Text="Nope, it's &quot;room temp&quot;, not warm at all. When it fails, it's failing out of the bag/off the shelf. Hasn't fired at all." CreationDate="2010-11-08T21:49:17.230" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="5608" PostId="4741" Text="I think it's a great goal, by the way. If not this winter, certainly soon." CreationDate="2010-11-08T22:49:51.870" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5609" PostId="4747" Score="1" Text="it sounds like they're fixing alot of long existing UI problems in GIMP 2.8" CreationDate="2010-11-09T02:12:11.883" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5610" PostId="4732" Score="1" Text="Another +1 for LR3.  Having got so used to Lightroom's workflow, I've become increasingly reluctant to have to go to the effort of sparking up an external NR product (whether standalone or as a PS plugin), yet with LR3, I now am perfectly comfortable shooting my Canon 350D at ISO800 and higher (when circumstances require it) knowing that LR3 will still be able to work wonders." CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:15:48.693" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5611" PostId="4714" Text="+1 for paint.net. It really is awesome!" CreationDate="2010-11-09T04:41:20.293" UserId="2103" />
  <row Id="5612" PostId="3922" Text="That GT0541 looks really nice ad light, but its maximum height is 55.91 in (142 cm) as opposed to my Manfrotto which extends to 70.08 in (180cm). I'm 6'3&quot;, the less I bend over, the better :)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T06:02:52.703" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5613" PostId="4737" Text="That will be exactly what I was expecting. I do get out with the camera and do the stuff on my own, but whenever I need some remarkable shots and i want to learn things online, I just don't get the lingo and the methods' they suggest. so getting terminology and photo-sense correctly would be a great help!!" CreationDate="2010-11-09T06:06:57.907" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="5614" PostId="4737" Text="Ooo.. that's having a high price!! I live in India and though it would be an online tutorial.. free kinda thing :-P . Its around 2000 bucks in my country. okay, I'll buy it sometime" CreationDate="2010-11-09T06:08:38.323" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="5615" PostId="4723" Text=":-)  Thanks for the warm welcome! and Thanks for the Edit! :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T06:11:31.537" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="5616" PostId="4750" Score="1" Text="+1: The king is back!" CreationDate="2010-11-09T07:40:42.630" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5617" PostId="4750" Text="It's always good to be back. ;-) Although I can't complain about where I've been...being out using my camera and taking pictures is always the best. :D" CreationDate="2010-11-09T07:43:40.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5618" PostId="4719" Text="+1 I have a GH1 and when it gets dark, I start seeing odd reflections in my images too. I'm using a Tiffen 46mm filter on the same Panny 20mm f/1.7 lens. I've been unable to determine whether it has reflective coating on it as there are no markings on it. Simplest solution: remove the filter if you get these at dark. Some images e.g. night sky shots are no problem at all, it seems there have to be bright light sources to get these.  " CreationDate="2010-11-09T08:36:08.900" UserId="1998" />
  <row Id="5619" PostId="4750" Text="+1: For descrption. @Rish I recommend You also read this http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/unsharp.htm" CreationDate="2010-11-09T11:16:40.220" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5620" PostId="4754" Text="Am glad to here this! I did not want to react on something that was possibly normal. I had come to conclusion it was due to high ISO and/or the NR and not an actual hardware problem. " CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:21:57.473" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="5621" PostId="4750" Text="@Rafal Thank you for the link. Really helped :)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:36:35.530" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5622" PostId="4750" Text="And as always, @jrista IS THE KING :D" CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:37:13.313" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5623" PostId="4752" Text="A-DEP tries to get *as many points as possible in focus*, not all, but definitely the way to go." CreationDate="2010-11-09T12:48:45.993" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5624" PostId="4753" Text="What model camera do you use, and what ISO setting were you using?" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:00:27.637" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5625" PostId="4747" Text="@rfusca, that's good news. The screenshots of single-window mode look nice, though [the designer says in a blog post](http://blog.mmiworks.net/2009/09/gimp-single-mode.html) that it will not be possible to split the view, which is a shame." CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:16:14.723" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5626" PostId="4756" Score="8" Text="Good lens, crappy miniature sensor != good photos." CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:30:50.660" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5627" PostId="4697" Text="I am windows user, but I have see Aperture to work and have features that I can not find on windows programs." CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:34:32.347" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="5628" PostId="4756" Score="2" Text="Wait for the Leica smartphone... " CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:07:13.400" UserId="2025" />
  <row Id="5629" PostId="4722" Score="1" Text="Actually - I think for a camera phone, the camera is pretty solid and fits in my pocket a whole lot better than my 50D :)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:09:57.733" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="5630" PostId="4747" Text="Just installed Gimp 2.7 (the dev version of 2.8) and can only describe the single-window mode as promising but hugely flakey: it doesn't remember docking positions, always starts in multi-window mode and randomly un-maximizes when opening or closing a file. Let's hope it improves." CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:12:23.003" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5631" PostId="4720" Text="Yargh, only available in the US Store.  " CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:13:26.497" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="5632" PostId="4750" Text="@Rish, You are welcome. I was struggling with this issue while back... finally I have read quite a lot about issue and started to controll what is going on in my camera." CreationDate="2010-11-09T14:13:40.310" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5634" PostId="4767" Text="Are you sure it wasn't ISO1600 not ISO16000 you were shooting at the rest of the time? This would make the image just over 4 stops overexposed, not 8, and correlate without fact you used exposure compensation of +4 in ACR. It's still impressive, I just want to make sure the numbers are correct. " CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:40:19.017" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5635" PostId="4767" Score="1" Text="Yep, it was 16000, I have another image from the sequence (and subjects) with the same aperture and shutter speed for reference (I'd post it, but I'm not at home to get it). ACR only allows for a 4 stop adjustment on exposure, so I also had to push the fill light to 100 to get more detail. Hmm, maybe I should I update the article with some intermediate steps. I've seen a similar example with a deliberate 10 stops under and that's what triggered my upgrade now rather than in January. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T15:59:21.343" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5636" PostId="4714" Score="1" Text="I use Gimp as my primary retouching software. It is good and powerful. The most important drawback for me is that in the current version (2.6) it doesn't support images with more than 8 bit per channel. This should be implemented in the future 3.0 version. Now I try to do curves transformation in RAW processing software or in digiKam which supports 16 bit (but it cannot replace Gimp)." CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:07:47.847" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5637" PostId="4750" Score="1" Text="@Rafal: Thanks for the Ken Rockwell link. I should have remembered that one. I'll work it into the answer." CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:10:53.040" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5638" PostId="3624" Text="Y/W. If you think this is the correct answer, you can mark it as the &quot;Accepted&quot; answer by clicking the check mark next to the rating." CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:25:59.297" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5639" PostId="4768" Text="+1, great answer. One tip: I believe the word you need in place of &quot;discretize&quot; is &quot;quantize&quot;: Quantize -verb: Math,Physics . to restrict (a variable quantity) to *discrete* values rather than a continuous set of values." CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:35:06.027" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5640" PostId="4767" Text="+1, that Cambridge in Color article is excellent. It does a great job of explaining the value of larger photosites (deeper &quot;wells&quot;) and how they affect dynamic range. It should probably also be noted that most sensors are not purely linear, most have an attenuated A/D conv. curve (S-curve) as you reach the extremes of shadow and highlight. In RAW, a digital sensor can capture a lot of data that can later be recovered, as your article demonstrated." CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:38:35.240" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5641" PostId="4777" Text="Gimp has very powerful scripting features. I have written a complete batch processing script in Python that I use to 1) convert from RAW, 2) apply all my routine enhancements (contrast, sharpening, etc) and 3) save as jpeg in chosen directory." CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:47:42.220" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5642" PostId="4765" Text="I agree, at ISO80, the K-5 is stunning and stacks up well with some medium format and full frame for the lower ISO ranges. As the ISO starts to jump, it starts to lose the lead. However, it still manages to stay quite close, so that's quite the achievement for Sony (who makes the sensor) and Pentax (who implemented it). The D7000 has very similar characteristics given that it's a variant on the same sensor and Nikon did a very good job on their implementation." CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:57:40.130" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5643" PostId="4767" Text="@jrista - Cambridge in Colour was one of the first photography sites I ever hit when I started into dSLR shooting. I keep going back to them, very well written and easy to follow stuff." CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:59:01.083" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5644" PostId="4768" Text="Thank you. My English is far from perfect, but it seems in the world of computing and mathematics _discretize_ is more appropriate when the continuous space is replaced with an equivalent discrete space for the purpose of calculation http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/discretize (e.g. a real number with an IEEE floating point value or an integer). Discretization is a software engineering decision. Quantized variable for me, instead, is a variable for which all values are forbidden except some. So “quantized” sounds like a physical restriction for me. But may be you are right." CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:13:10.120" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5645" PostId="4767" Text="@John: Agreed. CinC is a great site, and very well written at a level that is useful to both beginners and experienced photographers. Thats a difficult thing to do. " CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:28:49.953" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5646" PostId="4767" Text="Yes, the CCD itself responds linearly but that does not mean the AD converters which outputs the 14-bit data have to be linear as well. It is the first part that got me confused. Nice answer John!" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:01:25.000" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5647" PostId="4781" Text="+1. I had forgotten that monstrously detailed article!" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:10:51.197" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5648" PostId="4781" Text="I keep adding to it. ;) I have another answer coming up soon that covers whether you should resize to the printer's native resolution (or multiple thereof) or let the software/printer decide for you. " CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:13:18.087" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5649" PostId="36" Text="In the middle of reading this right now (volume 2):)." CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:18:22.713" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5650" PostId="4788" Score="5" Text="What do you mean by break the bank? Some people consider 500 dollars cheap, others consider it too much. Also, do you want an SLR or a point and shoot? SLRs generally take better looking photos, but are much more of an investment in money and dedication. " CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:57:02.650" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="5651" PostId="4788" Score="4" Text="Hi User2121, and welcome to Photo.SE. It would be very helpful if you could be much more specific about your need and your situation. As rm999 stated, what each individual considers &quot;cheap&quot; is extremely subjective." CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:58:23.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5652" PostId="4782" Score="1" Text="Thank you for this very extensive answer, I wish I could accept two answers. I had seen the Intent chooser in ufraw, but didn't know what it is for - I loved your explanation. &#xA;I don't know why, maybe it is just my nonitors - but on your corrected image the skin appears extremely whitened, and not a &quot;healthy&quot; skin colour. My own correction, while a bit pinkish on the Fujitsu and yellowish on the Dell, looks like real human skin. " CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:07:04.653" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="5653" PostId="4789" Score="1" Text="great link about the P&amp;S guy :)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T21:35:26.160" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="5654" PostId="4747" Text="I'm sure it will, its still a middle of the project dev release." CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:32:25.140" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5655" PostId="4768" Text="Technically speaking, a sensor does &quot;quantize&quot; light into specific, physically limited &quot;buckets&quot;. If we assume a 12-bit RAW image, there are 4096 discrete &quot;quanta&quot; that you can 'discretize' into. Where as discretize would mean that you could concert a real space into a variable number of discreet spaces, with a sensor, the discrete space is fixed, and there are only 4096 specific discrete values you could convert the analog space into. It may be a moot point, but I do think quantize is more applicable here. ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:01:20.530" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5656" PostId="4781" Score="1" Text="Unfortunately, there's a very long tradition of referring to *whole* monitor pixels (all three sub-pixels) using DPI, both in applications and in operating system monitor profiles. The 72ppi you refer to is very, very commonly referred to as 72dpi. If only everyone would get together and agree to make sense, this would all be less confusing!" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:33:47.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="5657" PostId="4788" Score="1" Text="Ditto &quot;look professional&quot;. What does that mean to you, exactly?" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:38:50.597" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="5658" PostId="2987" Text="May be useful for some... I've since discovered that Canon suggest that the weather sealing on the 7D is &quot;equivalent&quot; to the 1N... whatever that means. And I believe the 5D2 sealing is described in a similar way..." CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:41:50.343" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5659" PostId="4788" Text="Do you want to learn about photography or just get a camera which will take good photos of things you point it at? Some cameras give you more control and more chance to learn, others don't really give you any control but can generally take nice photos..." CreationDate="2010-11-10T01:48:16.127" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5660" PostId="4786" Text="I guess it is a matter of taste. The sail boat image isn't too bad, partly because of the complexity of the sky with the sails in front. I can really see the circular effect in the lower image, though." CreationDate="2010-11-10T02:16:04.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5661" PostId="4786" Text="+1 good examples. The nature of the image will make a big difference." CreationDate="2010-11-10T04:03:14.523" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5662" PostId="4789" Text="The buying guide you linked is excellent. I am impressed by how well researched and presented it is." CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:05:22.650" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5663" PostId="4782" Score="1" Text="I don't think it's just your monitors. Both jrista's and sebastion.b's Auto-Color'd versions look pretty cool to me. Compare the whites of her eyes to a pure white, they have a significant blue cast. " CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:21:11.123" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5664" PostId="4784" Text="Awesome! thanks! :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-10T05:59:04.540" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="5665" PostId="4771" Text="Wow.. thanks! :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-10T06:00:21.637" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="5666" PostId="4786" Text="@jrista Is the sky-darkening effect caused only by circular polarizers? I was under the impression that linear polarizers do it as well." CreationDate="2010-11-10T06:10:56.540" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5667" PostId="4786" Text="Both cause it...by &quot;circular effect&quot; I just meant the shape of the darkened area of the sky." CreationDate="2010-11-10T07:11:31.537" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5668" PostId="4782" Text="Keep in mind, the sample edits were all done with 100% automatic settings. The results are a little cool, and could probably use some slight warming. The intense green tint is gone, though, and the overly reddish hue is also gone. Usually, automatic only gets you 90% of the way there...some fine tuning is usually necessary to get perfect results." CreationDate="2010-11-10T07:13:50.770" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5669" PostId="4781" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: Indeed. There is also a TERRIBLE tradition of referring to printed pixels as &quot;DPI&quot;, which is an incredibly misleading figure. I can't begin to count how many times I've seen numbers like 360dpi and 720dpi thrown around supposedly &quot;professional&quot; printing forums, when in reality DPI for common photographic works is usually in the range of 4800-9600dpi, but resolution is only 600ppi. Its created a huge mess regarding printing, and the reason why I decided to write my own articles to correct the issue." CreationDate="2010-11-10T07:17:07.957" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5670" PostId="4716" Text="It may or may not even be possible using the basic SDK. I'm pretty sure some apps will post-process the JPGs to change exposure, but it might be worth trying to find out if the iOS SDK actually provides a function to capture a photo without auto-metering or with compensated metering." CreationDate="2010-11-10T08:58:54.807" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5671" PostId="4796" Text="Surely that would mean each camera only received half as much light? Wouldn't that be a problem?" CreationDate="2010-11-10T09:09:00.507" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="5672" PostId="4796" Text="surely... but using this, we can apply hdr to videos!" CreationDate="2010-11-10T09:20:43.977" UserId="1438" />
  <row Id="5673" PostId="4788" Score="1" Text="And also one should remember that not camera takes pictures, but a photographer. My point is, first learn how to take pictures with any camera you can afford and then you will realize what you miss, and what you need. You can fill your drawer (or wherever you want to keep your gear) with $20000 or more worth stuff but it will not take you a step closer to professional look photos until you can see and learn how and what to do.... " CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:11:02.220" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5674" PostId="4750" Text="@jrista, you are welcome. It was first think on my mind when I have seen question. By the way, thanks for nice summary :)" CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:14:02.123" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5675" PostId="4797" Score="2" Text="This should probably be a community wiki..." CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:28:25.923" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="5676" PostId="4768" Text="OK. I'm convinced." CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:29:21.150" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5677" PostId="4461" Text="“For all of DXO's talk about the accuracy ... they don't really tell their own customers how their own product really works”. +1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T11:40:42.543" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5678" PostId="4797" Text="Yes, I flagged it for moderator attention as I don't see the checkbox to do it." CreationDate="2010-11-10T12:00:16.387" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5679" PostId="4797" Text="@Charles Converted for you, as requested..." CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:02:49.197" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5680" PostId="4714" Text="@jetxee, There is a 8/16/32-bit fork of Gimp called [CinePaint](http://www.cinepaint.org/)." CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:24:45.943" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5681" PostId="4797" Text="@Rowland Thanks." CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:30:56.970" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5682" PostId="166" Text="-1 because with macro photography your depth of field is typically too small and you'll want to use f/8 or f/16 as @reuscam suggested. " CreationDate="2010-11-10T13:53:51.323" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="5683" PostId="3877" Text="Do engagement and graduation portraits count as &quot;event photography&quot; for this purpose? I would have thought that in both cases you can ask the subject to come back tomorrow if you get an equipment failure - embarrassing but not terminal, like it would be at a wedding." CreationDate="2010-11-10T14:37:07.387" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="5684" PostId="3422" Text="If you wanted to be courteous to your subject but still add light to the scene, you might think about using a continuous light. Since the rider will be able to see the light as he approaches, he won't be caught off-guard or be staring directly at a flash as it fires." CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:42:46.743" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5685" PostId="149" Score="2" Text="Rowland is pointing out that changing the focal length doesn't necessarily mean you wanted to shoot something further away. Instead, you can use a longer focal length to increase the magnification on your subject. However, strict &quot;macro&quot;, which is a 1:1 magnification of subject onto film/sensor, dictates that a longer focal length corresponds with a longer distance to the subject." CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:50:38.620" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5686" PostId="4801" Text="Fantastic resource. And very interesting discussion also. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:20:57.460" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5687" PostId="4783" Text="+1 for the Cambridge in Colour link, nice resource" CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:04:44.737" UserId="1749" />
  <row Id="5688" PostId="4695" Text="Thanks - thought I had tried that, and it was reimporting duplicates but will check again to be sure.  If so, that seems to be the simplest option." CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:06:27.527" UserId="172" />
  <row Id="5689" PostId="4714" Text="The last time I checked CinePaint had a scary and very dated user interface (like Gimp 1.x?). It has been removed from major Linux distributions (Debian, Ubuntu), because it depended on an obsolete version of the GTK toolkit, and was practically unmaintained and very buggy. According to www.cinepaint.org, the project will be resurrected, but for now even official builds for Mac/Windows are not available." CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:10:59.567" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5690" PostId="2255" Score="5" Text="Thanks for the explanation. I assumed he was photographing elderly people." CreationDate="2010-11-10T17:17:12.600" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="5691" PostId="4146" Text="The SD 1300 seems to be a good choice (at least according to http://www.image-acquire.com/canon-sd1300-camera-review-beats-the-1400/), I've mentioned the 1400 instead because I had a chance to use it for a few days (but not the 1300)." CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:00:22.877" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="5692" PostId="3053" Text="FWIW 50mm (effective) as 'normal' is just a convention.  I personally prefer 35mm and 85mm (effective) as they're more dramatic, of course dramatic != normal :)  Look back through your photo collection and see what range in mm you like the photos of and pick a prime lens accordingly." CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:10:47.057" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5693" PostId="3053" Score="1" Text="50mm isn't really &quot;standard&quot; on cropped sensor cameras like yours. It's just popular because those lenses are cheap and take good photos. This is partly because the camera makers perfected these lenses over many years, and partly because that focal length makes for a simple lens. But be careful, on your camera 50mm is quite zoomed in. As a test, set your kit lens to 55mm and walk around the house, getting a feel for whether you like that focal length. I went with a 35mm because it was more natural. At 50mm I found myself always trying to get further away from the subject.  " CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:28:05.147" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="5694" PostId="162" Text="Sorry but I too think these are too unrelated. I don't think you can come some vague correspondence either unless you specify the camera too... megapixel quality not uniform among cameras at all." CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:58:06.077" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5695" PostId="4811" Text="this probably should be community-wiki..." CreationDate="2010-11-10T19:03:07.607" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="5696" PostId="4804" Score="3" Text="This should really be community wiki. I hate to convert it while ltn100 has so little rep, though. I may convert it later." CreationDate="2010-11-10T19:23:21.617" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5697" PostId="4804" Text="@jrista, I agree, great wiki topic." CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:42:49.493" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5699" PostId="149" Text="Perhaps I should've clarified that I meant 'minimum' working distance." CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:29:12.730" UserId="92" />
  <row Id="5700" PostId="4816" Text="It doesn't work that way for me. It does if I keep the aspect ratio at 4x6, but not when I change it to 5x7." CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:46:41.043" />
  <row Id="5701" PostId="4817" Text="By the way, that was delicious apple pie ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-10T22:01:47.037" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5702" PostId="4821" Score="1" Text="Thanks.  I'm curious - what defines &quot;Noisiest&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-11-10T23:24:09.837" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="5704" PostId="4819" Text="@jrista - How do we search for cropped images? I looked for that without any luck. I thought of the variety of aspect ratio but looking at the set of focal-lengths with decimals places... it would probably not be much worst. Then there is always the standard set plus 'other' approach." CreationDate="2010-11-11T00:54:25.340" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5705" PostId="4768" Text="@jrista While we're discussing English, the word you want is &quot;discrete&quot;, not &quot;discreet&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-11T02:56:39.073" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="5706" PostId="95" Text="From about f/2.5 or so onwards, they're essentially identical in sharpness, but below that the f/1.4 is sharper. Also, of course, its USM focus is much faster &amp; quieter than the f/1.8." CreationDate="2010-11-11T04:30:59.553" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5707" PostId="160" Score="1" Text="Also worth noting the Canon 100mm L macro has Image Stabilisation, which may reduce the need for a tripod/flash ring in low light or for higher DOF." CreationDate="2010-11-11T04:39:19.047" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5708" PostId="4758" Text="I don't think that pure marketing can bring such magics. There must be something good about those lenses." CreationDate="2010-11-11T05:16:40.310" UserId="2112" />
  <row Id="5709" PostId="4800" Text="I'd been trying to Export using the right click -&gt; Export -- can these settings be changed (or even removed, as you don't get the option to change out of test mode)" CreationDate="2010-11-11T08:43:36.837" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5710" PostId="4456" Text="@ Shizam: Have a look at the Edit-&gt;Primary Only menu item or the &quot;1&quot; in a square icon.  It controls whether edits are performed on the whole selection or only the most recent selection." CreationDate="2010-11-11T09:02:43.247" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="5711" PostId="4758" Score="1" Text="@jase21 It's analogous to the bottled water vs. tap water debate. Both are products with similar raw materials, and different amounts of processing, but one is significantly more expensive per litre..." CreationDate="2010-11-11T09:12:36.717" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5712" PostId="4809" Text="Thanks jrista. I've seen a couple of mentions of _The Photographer's Eye_ now, so I think I'll put an order in for that :)" CreationDate="2010-11-11T10:23:19.617" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5713" PostId="4830" Text="+1 A good series there. (links to the other 4 sections are at the bottom of the page)" CreationDate="2010-11-11T10:26:41.937" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5714" PostId="4829" Text="I appreciate your input here -- I was trying peer assistance without having to bother you first -- there's a lot of Lightroom users here, and I admit that I'm a new convert to it, and trying to streamline my whole workflow which is why I'm evaluating your plugin." CreationDate="2010-11-11T11:05:49.460" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5717" PostId="4832" Score="1" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4687/rule-of-thumb-for-metering-when-best-to-use-multi-zone-matrix-spot-or-center/4694" CreationDate="2010-11-11T14:08:41.003" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5718" PostId="4837" Score="1" Text="I think a rhino file would be more useful, especially if you actually wanted to fabricate one." CreationDate="2010-11-11T14:59:20.350" UserId="2062" />
  <row Id="5720" PostId="4838" Score="1" Text="+1 - Nice find :)" CreationDate="2010-11-11T15:49:09.660" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5721" PostId="4833" Text="Just for kicks, an 8GB SD card costs about 30 bucks.  MLC flash has a mean life of 5000 read/write cycles. Assuming a somewhat dumb controller and 22MB raw files each picture costs: 0.000034 dollars (0.0034 cents)." CreationDate="2010-11-11T15:59:13.927" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="5722" PostId="4833" Text="@Ron Warholic - Lots way less than 30. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820208293" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:11:54.350" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5723" PostId="4840" Score="1" Text="It is a smaller version of the 126.  I cant believe I didnt know there was 126 film, Im a bit upset with myself for that!  Although its smaller by 35% in height and 54% smaller in the width that doesnt tell me what the dimensions of the case are.  Im just trying to avoid taking one of the rolls I have, destroying it and taking calipers to it.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks for the comment :)" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:28:17.493" UserId="2144" />
  <row Id="5724" PostId="4833" Score="3" Text="If you're using a DSLR with a physical shutter that cost jumps to a shocking 0.2 cents (assuming a $100 rebuild after 50,000 actuations). But still a fifth of a cent. To me lightmeters, complicated metering modes, formulas and rules of thumb are worthless compared to actually taking a photo and looking at it. Why use a reading when you can use the real thing! " CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:29:42.127" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5725" PostId="4841" Text="+1 This is a very thorough solution" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:30:12.470" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5726" PostId="4658" Text="So as it turns out, some settings in the Image menu were not defaulted, and thus in the non-automatic modes, the max burst was lower. The four settings were long exposure noise reduction, high ISO speed noise reduction, highlight tone priority, and auto lighting optimizer. The Canon rep was very helpful!" CreationDate="2010-11-11T17:14:48.847" UserId="2051" />
  <row Id="5727" PostId="4833" Text="@rfusca: indeed and the cost is only dropping.  I only get class 10 cards (I do some video as well) so they're a bit pricier.  Accounting for the shutter lifetime also raises the cost a good amount (far more than the memory lifetime). " CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:34:07.090" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="5728" PostId="4833" Score="1" Text="@Matt: Completely agree. If at all possible check your exposure and reshoot until you're absolute happy with it.  There are some cases where the first shot counts but in Av mode with reasonable metering and frequent chimping theres no reason to lean on the metering too much." CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:37:21.283" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="5729" PostId="4840" Score="1" Text="I wouldn't be above calipers -- I'd be interested in trying to print it on a Makerbot myself." CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:39:01.200" UserId="2147" />
  <row Id="5730" PostId="4833" Text="@Ron Warholic: True for class 10s." CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:47:56.660" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5731" PostId="4833" Score="1" Text="@Matt Grum: Great point, being able to look is one of those huge digital advantages." CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:48:57.393" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5732" PostId="158" Text="15 years ago when I was reading these kind of info there was a rule of thumb that optimum ZOOMs were 1:3... And obviously still the same today." CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:55:49.090" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="5733" PostId="4802" Score="6" Text="I'd add that the analogy of our eyes as a lens is a bit misleading, because the images, as processed by our brain, are closer to a panoramic stitching than a single snapshot. Our eyes continuously scan a scene, and recompose it in a way that is not entirely perspective-based (interesting tidbit: Leonardo da Vinci understood this intuitively, and &quot;cheated&quot; with perspective in his paintings to get a more realistic looking scene than his peers. For instance, round objects in the foreground should be round, even if perspective say that they are really projected as an ellipse on the &quot;sensor&quot;)" CreationDate="2010-11-11T19:03:41.203" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="5734" PostId="4844" Score="1" Text="Thanks. This seems to be a more in-depth description of the 'Highlight-spot' emulation that Itai described http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4832/exposure-techniques-when-out-and-about/4836#4836" CreationDate="2010-11-11T20:07:54.450" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5735" PostId="4839" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the site!" CreationDate="2010-11-11T20:29:13.537" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5736" PostId="4769" Text="She looks like she is lacking quite a bit of contrast. I would bump that up a bit, bring out some more vibrancy in the shot." CreationDate="2010-11-11T21:50:50.633" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5737" PostId="263" Text="Or rent one you're considering buying. Try before you buy." CreationDate="2010-11-11T22:02:17.487" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="5738" PostId="3985" Score="2" Text="Going big is always the way to go w/landscapes, coming around a corner and seeing a great photo &gt; 6' wide takes your breath away.  Great comparisons." CreationDate="2010-11-11T22:44:53.860" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5739" PostId="263" Text="Haven't done that myself, but it's another useful option. It's hard to know for sure if you like a lens unless you've actually used it for a while - you don't get that in the camera store!" CreationDate="2010-11-12T04:32:08.973" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="5740" PostId="4851" Text="@Zoe Bailey: Good shot!  I have the same experience with with my 2 year old." CreationDate="2010-11-12T06:20:44.183" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="5742" PostId="4856" Text="On the same computer I also see the 2 versions of the image, depending on which program I use to open it." CreationDate="2010-11-12T10:06:13.603" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5743" PostId="4853" Score="2" Text="As this question is really about webdesign you might find a better answer on doctype.com (which is affiliated with stackoverflow)" CreationDate="2010-11-12T10:08:19.827" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5744" PostId="4856" Text="In that case it might be the colour profile, though I can't see how that could cause a colour shift since white is represented by exactly the same values in sRGB and AdobeRGB! Try converting your photos to sRGB in LightRoom to see if that solves the problem." CreationDate="2010-11-12T10:14:12.177" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5745" PostId="4842" Text="¡Gracias por la respuesta!" CreationDate="2010-11-12T10:39:28.577" UserId="2146" />
  <row Id="5746" PostId="4769" Text="To tell the truth, I prefer the original version http://flic.kr/p/8S4qYa — I feel that the warmer tint looks more natural and the contrast is better. The skin tone is what I like. Auburn in hairs is very distinct. Watching at sRGB laptop screen. Your second version is too low-contrast to my taste. I didn't like cooler auto-corrected versions in the answer below at all. They look like she is ill." CreationDate="2010-11-12T11:08:22.467" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5747" PostId="4853" Text="Thanks Matt, but I think it's better to have photographers opinions over web designers when it comes to presentation of pictures. " CreationDate="2010-11-12T12:54:57.617" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="5748" PostId="2362" Score="1" Text="Since you're in Canada (like me), you should check out http://www.photoprice.ca which is a price comparison tool for cameras and lenses from many retailers (Canadian and US). It includes estimates of shipping and handling too." CreationDate="2010-11-12T13:02:58.820" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5749" PostId="4856" Text="I tried this and it already had sRGB... If I export to the hard drive as JPG directly from Lightroom it works OK. Maybe it's something Flickr does to my photos?" CreationDate="2010-11-12T13:21:43.757" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5750" PostId="4856" Text="In my computer at home it doesn't do anything weird... Only in my computer at work. Both use Windows 7 Ultimate. It's strange." CreationDate="2010-11-12T13:25:36.530" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5751" PostId="4851" Text="@Zoe: Nice shot. I'm going to be doing a mix of formal/informal, group, singles, etc. Since we're not a studio dime, we can take time, have some fun, and vary things enough to avoid boredom (I hope)." CreationDate="2010-11-12T14:15:25.940" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5752" PostId="4853" Text="Do you know about Jalbum (http://jalbum.net)? I have no idea what your requirements are but you should check it out. It is very versatile and easy to use." CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:01:21.320" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5753" PostId="4851" Score="1" Text="@John would thoroughly recommend having some toys for the younger ones to lpay with. the item that has been the biggest hit with the younger ones is bubbles" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:13:42.990" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="5754" PostId="4851" Text="@Zoe Oh yeah, we have lots of toys for them. I figure I have it a little easier since I know the kids love coming to my place!" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:29:49.223" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5755" PostId="4851" Text="@John - makes it much easier if they are comfortable :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:39:00.860" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="5756" PostId="1365" Text="You can get decoded third party LP-E6 batteries that give the same information." CreationDate="2010-11-12T18:12:06.750" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="5757" PostId="4852" Text="I was looking at this lens on ebay and was very much considering purchasing it.  No issues with the D90 and the lens?" CreationDate="2010-11-12T21:53:02.497" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="5758" PostId="4852" Text="none at all - works like a dream" CreationDate="2010-11-13T06:50:02.903" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="5759" PostId="4869" Text="I'm also considering a Peleng lens. It's fully manual, but it looks like a fun lens." CreationDate="2010-11-13T09:18:46.863" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5760" PostId="4871" Text="It's that last point I struggle with -- knowing when it is going to be a great sunset to begin with, and capturing the colours in it accurately" CreationDate="2010-11-13T16:29:21.293" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5762" PostId="4871" Text="Some areas are renowned for good sunsets (I believe Turner painted a lot of his famous sunsets from Whitstable on the south coast of England). Parts of Arizona are also famous. I would look through the Geotagged sunset images on Flickr for inspiration! Provided you don't over/underexpose you will capture all the colours accurately no matter what you do! Then it's a matter of developing the image." CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:30:30.450" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5763" PostId="4873" Text="Why the downvote? The mention of Photoshop? I'm afraid it pays a very large part in producing landscape images these days (replacing the very large part that good darkroom work, dodging and burning played in the film era)." CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:31:29.903" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5764" PostId="4871" Text="Apparently the recent Icelandic volcanic eruption and resulting ash cloud lead to some spectacular sunsets over Europe, so there are times when you get a tip off ahead of time!" CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:37:43.627" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5765" PostId="4456" Text="Woh, is that new in 3.1?!" CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:48:14.667" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5766" PostId="4856" Score="1" Text="Is the &quot;work&quot; computer colour-managed? Specifically does it have a monitor colour profile set?" CreationDate="2010-11-13T18:20:46.063" UserId="1055" />
  <row Id="5767" PostId="4873" Text="@Matt well, the downvote wasn't me, if that's any consolation. Do you have any suggestions on choosing white balance for sunsets?" CreationDate="2010-11-13T18:21:10.603" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5768" PostId="4873" Text="I don't mind a downvote it's just with an explanation it's *constructive* criticism otherwise it's just criticism. " CreationDate="2010-11-13T20:18:13.997" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5769" PostId="4878" Score="2" Text="Thanks. With your info I thought it was a problem with windows instead of my pictures. I found this: http://forums.tweakguides.com/showthread.php?t=6944" CreationDate="2010-11-13T21:00:54.040" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5770" PostId="4873" Score="1" Text="As for white balance, in most cases you're going to want to go with something pretty warm, unless you want to emphasise the contrast between the warm tones of the sunset vs. a cooler foreground. Shifting toward magenta can help bring out the purples of stratus clouds if you have any in shot. Basically the rule is whatever looks good!" CreationDate="2010-11-13T21:06:28.500" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5771" PostId="4874" Score="1" Text="Next time use AE-L or M mode to make sure your exposure stays the same between images. In case you have not done that, you should fix the focus (either manual or infinity/pan, depending on your camera) and white-balance (either using a preset or custom). If your camera has a Panorama mode it should do all this automatically." CreationDate="2010-11-13T21:59:31.727" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5772" PostId="4878" Text="Cool!  That's perfect, and it solved my problem too." CreationDate="2010-11-13T22:09:28.780" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5773" PostId="4881" Text="Thanks.  Let's say cheap &lt; $30.  Also, I checked out the Canon web site .. many of the downloads are &quot;updaters&quot;, implying I need the original software.  Is there a particular download there I should be looking at?" CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:29:06.920" UserId="396" />
  <row Id="5774" PostId="4880" Text="Lightroom seriously kicks ass but it's $299 US." CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:36:02.903" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="5775" PostId="4881" Text="@Chris I updated my answer to mention 'Picture Style Editor', which definitely can open CR2 files.  From the downloads listing, it looks like they are offering the full program, and not just an update.  (I can only verify that the program by that name that I installed off of the CD can open CR2 files, so please let us know if the download works for you." CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:58:18.890" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="5776" PostId="4881" Text="Yes, Canon offers full versions of their programs. Also, there's a &quot;codec&quot; for windows that integrates the format into the operating system." CreationDate="2010-11-14T07:26:43.350" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5777" PostId="4879" Score="1" Text="Yes, I have found that Hugin does a good job of equalising exposure." CreationDate="2010-11-14T07:52:36.117" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5778" PostId="4848" Text="Maybe it is just that my raw editor doesn't offer enough options. There, I can only set colour balance for the complete picture. Meaning that when I take out the green cast, everything turns too much into magenta, including the leaves. In GIMP (after conversion), I can select the girl and set her colour to something less green, then invert the selection and set the colour of the leaves separately. " CreationDate="2010-11-14T09:27:54.657" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="5779" PostId="4885" Score="1" Text="When I've tried to download DPP in the past I've found you can only download the update to latest version online, which will only install if you have an old version already. Is this still the case? " CreationDate="2010-11-14T10:14:38.327" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5780" PostId="4885" Text="@Matt I've found I've been able to install with only the barest minimum of tools installed (I *think* it only checks for the EOS Viewer or a previous version of DPP)." CreationDate="2010-11-14T10:27:49.473" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5781" PostId="4888" Text="Is that right for JPG too?" CreationDate="2010-11-14T12:42:44.430" UserId="2167" />
  <row Id="5782" PostId="4888" Text="I believe it is" CreationDate="2010-11-14T12:48:13.120" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5783" PostId="4888" Text="@Rowland Shaw - 10X" CreationDate="2010-11-14T12:55:04.320" UserId="2167" />
  <row Id="5784" PostId="4868" Text="Thank you for this recommendation - off to take a look at it" CreationDate="2010-11-14T13:50:25.000" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="5785" PostId="4880" Text="OK, if I need a RAW ass-kicking, I'll consider Lightroom ;-)" CreationDate="2010-11-14T14:05:35.887" UserId="396" />
  <row Id="5786" PostId="4894" Text="+1 for RawTheraphee, which is actually amazing and now open source so everybody can put his hands into it :)" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:59:08.793" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5787" PostId="4895" Score="2" Text="Funny but true! The first time I saw a collection of fisheye photos it took me a while to realize that the bottom of all images included the photographer's belly!" CreationDate="2010-11-14T22:07:28.117" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5788" PostId="4873" Text="I'm sorry, but I have to drop a down vote here. I really, honestly do not think that &quot;Photoshop&quot; is the best answer to this question. Yes, I do agree that post processing is a powerful tool that can help *bring out the most* in a sunrise/set shot, but it is not the best way to CAPTURE a great sunrise/set shot. That either takes some careful planning and consideration and a decent visionary eye, or a lot of luck and a handy camera. Between my own experience, and from the many, many books I've read, **good light** doesn't happen after the shutter closes..you seek it out and take it." CreationDate="2010-11-15T00:33:33.330" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5789" PostId="4868" Text="No problem. I've been working with it quite a lot the past couple of weeks, so any issues feel free to ask me." CreationDate="2010-11-15T02:35:31.260" UserId="2161" />
  <row Id="5790" PostId="4898" Text="I do not have any experience with monopod but I would expect it will do huge difference when your lens is not ultra-light and you must use it for quite a while. " CreationDate="2010-11-15T03:00:20.043" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5791" PostId="4758" Text="+1 Yes, that makes sense." CreationDate="2010-11-15T04:04:39.873" UserId="2112" />
  <row Id="5792" PostId="3960" Text="@labnut, open a question about that in meta." CreationDate="2010-11-15T08:33:22.060" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="5793" PostId="4873" Text="The question was how to **make** the *most* stunning sunset/sunrise shots, not how to capture (which I did at least address). I *emphasized* the role of post production to balance out the answers relating to light, subject, timeout day, etc. which are all **very** important but could still leave people wondering why their results don't match what they're seeing in other peoples images, because they don't want to face the fact that the most stunning ones I've seen have all had some form of post production." CreationDate="2010-11-15T09:58:04.513" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5794" PostId="4874" Text="@Itai Locking the exposure is not a good idea in general as the exposure for your first frame won't necessarily be the right exposure for subsequent frames, especially if you go nearer or further from the sun. Any panorama tool worth its salt should be able to even out the exposures for you. " CreationDate="2010-11-15T12:12:25.507" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5795" PostId="4874" Score="1" Text="@phenry Have you tried Photoshop's inbuilt panorama stitching utility? I would give that a go before downloading anything else. It will even out the brightness for you... " CreationDate="2010-11-15T12:14:24.427" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5796" PostId="4874" Text="@Matt - Sorry to disagree. You need to lock the exposure. Having software make decisions for you later is always a bad idea. Note that locking must be done at the desired exposure. Normally that means making sure those brightest area in a pano does not over-expose." CreationDate="2010-11-15T15:54:24.310" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5797" PostId="4877" Text="The exposure adjustment is *not* (at least normally) based on the EXIF data. You normally use identical exposures for an entire panorama, but changes in brightness between one picture and the next can still be visible. Since you're aligning points in the photographs, the software can figure out that the same points should be the same brightness in both, and adjust accordingly." CreationDate="2010-11-15T16:07:14.230" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="5798" PostId="4903" Score="2" Text="One thing about compression is that it tends to remove fine details while good sharpness requires, so you are fighting one with the other :)" CreationDate="2010-11-15T16:08:56.070" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5799" PostId="4905" Text="I just did some more tests and I don't see any difference with amount 50%, Radius 1.0, Threshold 0 and amount 300, Radius 0.2, Threshold 0. I pixelpeeped also smart sharpen and another one that does &gt; sharpen &gt; fade sharpen 50%, but al these do not look as good as LR's output, they all tend to bump up the blacks." CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:17:22.323" UserId="2181" />
  <row Id="5800" PostId="4875" Score="1" Text="Downnvoted because...? The questioner already has CS4, and this will fix his problem" CreationDate="2010-11-15T20:41:23.210" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5801" PostId="4874" Score="1" Text="@itai Disagreement is fine :) if you're using stitching software it's making hundreds of decisions for you. Evening out the brightness is a pretty non contravsial decision. Locking effectively limits the kind of panorama you can shoot, i.e. it stops you going close to the sun *and* retaining shadow detail. Not locking and/or setting the exposure yourself lets you extend the dynamic range of the capture. Ideally you'd bracket each image and do an HDR conversion but letting the exposure vary gets you close for no effort." CreationDate="2010-11-15T20:48:22.877" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5802" PostId="4873" Text="Ok I've edited my answer to make the point clear - I wasn't belittling the role of lighting, or suggesting it could be replaced with photoshop, just that to make the most stunning pictures imo requires some post production. That's always been the case even with film" CreationDate="2010-11-15T21:21:32.300" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5803" PostId="4870" Text="Trial and error:) Seriously" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:37:55.233" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5804" PostId="4854" Text="could it be your monitor or color settings but your only noticing it because of the white background?&gt;" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:38:39.833" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5805" PostId="4845" Text="Maybe you want a dslr? I'd go with nikon, canon, sony , pentax pretty much any of the big ones" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:39:54.560" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5806" PostId="4908" Score="1" Text="have you tried preview" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:40:13.750" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5807" PostId="4898" Text="It will be much more stable images, but i'd suggest a good tripod" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:40:54.700" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5808" PostId="4898" Text="for example a nice ambico prosumer" CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:41:35.077" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5809" PostId="4873" Score="1" Text="The title asked how to &quot;make&quot;, but the actual question body stated &quot;capture&quot;, which I believe means &quot;on scene with a camera&quot;. Answer is a little better, but it still makes it sound like it is not really possible without some hefty Photoshoping. I spend a lot of time capturing sunsets, as I have never much been a morning person. Outside of exposure correction for ETTR, I rarely do anything else to mine. It most definitely is possible to capture a great sunset without a lot of post processing...it just requires a **lot** of patience and a visionary eye." CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:44:48.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5810" PostId="4707" Text="Photoshop is well worth the money." CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:45:14.620" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5811" PostId="4899" Text="Regarding stability, I was worried that if the ball head allows me to move the camera around, does that negate some of the benefits of having a monopod for stability.  I guess you adjust the friction so that it doesn't move too easily." CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:55:22.977" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5812" PostId="4899" Text="The camera plus lens weighs about 4+ lbs, and I do already have &quot;tennis elbow&quot; from playing squash, so I am doing exercises to strength the elbow, but it is still sore after an hour or so of shooting." CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:56:30.900" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5813" PostId="4899" Text="In this instance, I think the monopod is best, as I do move around at rink side, and I feel like it would be harder to track the skaters with a tripod mount." CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:58:26.717" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5814" PostId="4898" Text="I don't the the tripod setup will be mobile enough for me, and I feel like it would be more difficult to track the skaters on a tripod mount, but I haven't tried either, so I don't know for sure." CreationDate="2010-11-16T00:59:31.130" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5815" PostId="2736" Text="very cool photo by the way" CreationDate="2010-11-16T01:02:36.140" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5816" PostId="4881" Text="The codec looked promising, but, *boo*: &quot;64-bit Operating systems are not supported&quot;" CreationDate="2010-11-16T01:11:31.900" UserId="396" />
  <row Id="5817" PostId="4881" Text="OK, I downloaded and installed &quot;Canon Picture Style Editor&quot;.  It can certainly **view** the CR2 files.  However, there doesn't appear to be any option to convert or save the image in another format." CreationDate="2010-11-16T01:20:41.283" UserId="396" />
  <row Id="5818" PostId="4894" Text="**RawTherapee** did exactly what I needed.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-11-16T01:35:45.110" UserId="396" />
  <row Id="5819" PostId="4919" Text="Agreed.  Recently, I only used 100/125 when I was doing some landscape/still life stuff on tripods.  For 'general use' B&amp;W I've been using all the 400 speed films that ctham just mentioned." CreationDate="2010-11-16T02:30:28.073" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5820" PostId="4875" Text="That worked perfectly! I've been using Photoshop for 15 years, and there are still so many features I've never encountered before." CreationDate="2010-11-16T04:18:22.337" UserId="2164" />
  <row Id="5821" PostId="4607" Text="Thanks Nick! Appreciate it. " CreationDate="2010-11-16T04:34:37.197" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5822" PostId="4844" Text="@Eruditass: thanks for this tip. I have been trying out spot metering on the highlights and it does indeed work very well." CreationDate="2010-11-16T07:22:17.273" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5823" PostId="4418" Text="The problem, IMO, is not the location itself, it is the right timing. It is the light which usually makes the landscape awesome. I know people who take much better photos in the same locations as I do: either they know when the light is better or visit them more often not to miss the light opportunities." CreationDate="2010-11-16T09:01:11.333" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="5824" PostId="4899" Text="I don't bother with a ballhead on my monopod when shooting motorsports; it allows me to pan nicely about its sole leg. Have a play with one in a shop, perhaps?" CreationDate="2010-11-16T11:07:45.133" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="5825" PostId="4922" Text="This should probably be community wiki." CreationDate="2010-11-16T12:39:29.550" UserId="999" />
  <row Id="5826" PostId="4922" Text="@Stephen ...and now it is..." CreationDate="2010-11-16T12:40:35.067" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5828" PostId="710" Score="1" Text="Related to: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/325/how-can-i-know-what-speed-card-to-get-for-my-camera" CreationDate="2010-11-16T13:17:14.503" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5829" PostId="4713" Text="Where did you get the 1/(4Fnum^2+1) from? Looks like you are integrating the irradiance in image space using the paraxial approximation to derive angles. The paraxial approximation is not good for fast lenses. The [Abbe sine condition](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abbe_sine_condition) is a more reasonable assumption and yields the usual 1/(4Fnum^2) factor." CreationDate="2010-11-16T14:52:54.177" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5830" PostId="4930" Score="1" Text="Your assumptions are not purely theoretical. Real-life [telephoto lenses](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephoto_lens) have a negative group at the back that behaves much like a teleconverter." CreationDate="2010-11-16T15:04:37.990" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5831" PostId="1802" Score="3" Text="+1 as my sister is TTL blinker. Nikon has the same feature. The function is called “FV lock” and on the D300 it is the default function assigned to the (configurable) Func button. She was amazed when she discovered that I could configure my camera to avoid her blinking. ;-)" CreationDate="2010-11-16T15:18:48.943" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5832" PostId="4922" Text="If you have the time, and live in a moderately populated area, I highly suggest putting yourself out for being a wedding photographer's assistant for one wedding.  You can find requests for assistants on craigslist or photography forums, they usually pay $200-400 for a big wedding (at least in SF, so maybe 10%) and you get a lot of experience.  Who knows, you might even like it :)" CreationDate="2010-11-16T15:25:08.347" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5833" PostId="740" Text="@jrista: Thanks for your feedback on Transcend. I was planning to get their class 10 for my Canon 550D for HD video recording. I'll go for 32GB SanDisc Extreme III instead (http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-III-Flash-memory/dp/B002TQ6HT6/), even though it's thrice the price of Transcend." CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:03:59.673" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="5834" PostId="4923" Text="The only thing I'd add would be &quot;monopod&quot; to the should have list! " CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:08:06.717" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5835" PostId="4688" Text="Yes the flash did fire." CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:11:33.830" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="5836" PostId="4930" Text="yep, it behaves exactly like a telecoverter in fact, hence the name &quot;tele&quot; &quot;converter&quot;, it allows a standard lens to have a focal length longer than the physical length which is the defining feature of a *telephoto lens* " CreationDate="2010-11-16T16:26:01.803" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5837" PostId="4821" Text="I updated the answer. For me, noisiest mean anything &gt; ISO 3200 on my 5DMarkII. I interpret it as &quot;photos that have a good chance to be really noisy and need attention&quot;. " CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:21:47.460" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5838" PostId="4923" Text="@Matt I almost put tripod, but I've not seen one used at a wedding in almost ten years; Maybe it's just nice to have?" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:35:51.400" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5839" PostId="4922" Text="Another question with answers covering the same area - http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3467/how-hard-would-be-photographing-a-wedding-with-just-prime-lens" CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:12:01.837" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="5840" PostId="4932" Score="4" Text="The necktie with lens cleaner is awesome." CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:27:15.610" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="5841" PostId="4929" Text="By that logic, you get less depth of field by cropping an existing image?" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:05:25.900" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5842" PostId="4923" Text="Tripods not so much (there's rarely time to set one up), but a monopod is more widely used - if you're going to shoot at 200mm in a dimly lit church (which is sometimes necessary) the monopod makes life so much easier!" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:34:09.770" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5843" PostId="4929" Score="1" Text="@Rowland - No. Cropping does not affect the angle at which light enters the lens because it does not increase focal-length. It is the same when mounting a lens on cameras with different sensor sizes, you get a 'cropped' field-of-view but you didn't change focal-length." CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:42:20.853" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5844" PostId="4929" Text="But there is going to be the same field of view in the centre portion of a shot at 300mm compared to a 600mm lens" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:57:05.483" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5845" PostId="4929" Score="1" Text="@Rowland - Depth-of-field can be defined by aperture size and focal-length alone. How much you crop changes the field-of-view in the picture (not the lens') but has no effect on depth-of-field. If you need more explanations then I suggest you look up how depth-of-field works. Otherwise it may end up a very long discussion here :)" CreationDate="2010-11-16T20:10:01.380" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="5846" PostId="4845" Text="No, I specifically asked for a point and shoot. I recommended the SK130 and the client purchased it, and is happy with it so far." CreationDate="2010-11-16T20:34:21.613" UserId="1180" />
  <row Id="5849" PostId="4918" Text="+1 For Sticking with film" CreationDate="2010-11-17T00:51:23.793" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5852" PostId="4943" Score="3" Text="If you want to be hardcore you could bring a laptop/computer and monitor for tethered shooting for the people to see their pictures :)" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:03:33.113" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5853" PostId="4943" Text="was thinking about that, though I've never done it before. D700 and MacBookPro. Any hints?" CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:07:19.763" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5854" PostId="4944" Text="Paperwork/release is done. Took care of that with the last photo-shoot I did for them. Good idea on the backup camera though. Will bring laptop and card reader. Thx." CreationDate="2010-11-17T02:24:40.957" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5855" PostId="4943" Score="1" Text="Yea, I use my MacBook Pro as well with Lightroom (2 or 3).  In LR2 you shoot pictures to a folder and ask LR to monitor that folder (file -&gt; auto import).  In LR3 you can do 'tethered capture' directly (file -&gt; tethered capture).  If you don't own either you can download a free 30 day trial." CreationDate="2010-11-17T03:37:39.413" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5856" PostId="4923" Score="2" Text="I thing that if you're going to be the main photographer, spare camera is a must. It's not that expensive to rent a second body, and you definitely don't want to see a photoless bride." CreationDate="2010-11-17T09:41:09.357" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5857" PostId="4933" Text="Thanks. Simple Comic is not bad and is the kind of program I was looking for (the loupe is really handy) but needs more work from the developer. It's still a bit slow and buggy." CreationDate="2010-11-17T09:46:44.190" UserId="2182" />
  <row Id="5858" PostId="4908" Text="from the answers I got so far, I liked Xee and Simple Comic. the latter has a loupe, which is specially handy. regarding preview, the main limitation that I find is that zooming in full screen doesn't work very well - the only way I found to do it is the OS X's built in zooming feature which is not very intuitive. " CreationDate="2010-11-17T09:55:49.767" UserId="2182" />
  <row Id="5859" PostId="4905" Text="I don't have Lightroom but if you could post a couple of the Lightroom thumbs along with the original images I could have a go a replicating what LR does in Photoshop. " CreationDate="2010-11-17T10:23:27.310" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5860" PostId="4950" Text="Thx for the tip." CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:51:57.750" UserId="2207" />
  <row Id="5861" PostId="4953" Text="Looks like for my work, this is the only solution." CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:52:20.887" UserId="2207" />
  <row Id="5862" PostId="4952" Text="Firstly, no need to apologise - I was talking about two lenses *with the same focal length* not two lenses with different focal lengths. Secondly your statement that a telecoverter doesn't affect depth of field could be a little misleading in this case as the question is &quot;does a 300 f/2.8 with a 2x converter have the DOF of a 600 f/2.8 or a 600 f/5.6&quot; so it does affect DOF in the sense that the relative aperture size changed. " CreationDate="2010-11-17T13:13:12.357" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5863" PostId="4939" Score="1" Text="in reply to all the answers: i went out to the store last night and to be honest the canon felt plasticy and not like a real camera. the nikkon felt solid and seemed like you were getting a professional camera. the canon felt more like a toy. the canon kit lens seemed to be a tube of think black plastic with some glass inside... no question the optics and physics are on point - my perception was it was not on the level of the nikkon where the lens felt sturdy, solid and metaly." CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:13:16.087" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="5864" PostId="4951" Text="Got the tape...and the knife...and the flashlight. No assistant though. Thought about Jrista as he's in town, but not sure how to get a hold of him. Does he answer to a bat symbol? " CreationDate="2010-11-17T16:58:51.970" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5865" PostId="4952" Text="And the answer is that a 300 f/2.8 with a 2x converter acts EXACTLY like a 600 f/5.6 - in both light gathering ability and in depth of field." CreationDate="2010-11-17T17:09:42.397" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5866" PostId="4930" Score="1" Text="Your argument is invalid, specifically &quot;one would have the DOF of a 600 f/5.6 and one would have the DOF of a 600 f/2.8.&quot; In reality, one would have the DOF of a 600 f/5.6, and the other would have the DOF of a **300 f/2.8**. Here's the secret: A 300 f/2.8 has the same depth of field as a 600 f/5.6, NOT a 600 f/2.8" CreationDate="2010-11-17T19:20:08.690" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5867" PostId="4960" Text="can you limit this to a particular folder? I haven't used smart collections yet" CreationDate="2010-11-17T19:30:11.243" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="5868" PostId="4943" Text="You can also do tethered capturing in Aperture, if you have that. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4176" CreationDate="2010-11-17T19:30:35.500" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="5869" PostId="4939" Score="1" Text="That is because the D90 is a mid-grade camera, while the 550D is an entry-level camera. If you handle a Canon 50D or 7D, it will feel considerably more solid, as they both have metal bodies. The entry level lens on the 550D is a plastic mount, however you often have a choice of kit lens. The Canon 28-135mm is more on par with what you might get with the Nikon D90. Keep in mind, you are really comparing apples and oranges, as the two cameras come from different grades. If you want to feel Canon's D90 competition, you need the xxD line, rather than the xxxD line." CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:33:19.263" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5870" PostId="4929" Text="Cropping does affect the *apparent* DOF, though. If you take a full-frame image that is mostly in-focus in the center, and blurred along the top and bottom edges, cropping WILL introduce a change in the dof that is apparent in the image (assuming the cropped version and FF version are scaled to the same size). Sensor does play a specific role in DOF calculations as well, from the standpoint of CoC. A smaller pixel allows for finer CoC, which affects DOF when enlarging for print. Most official DOF formulas take into account CoC (which is a function of imaging medium) as well length &amp; aperture." CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:39:51.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5871" PostId="4952" Text="Excellent answer. Thanks for bringing CoC into the mix. It should be noted that CoC **is** affected by the imaging medium, which is why most DOF calculations involve the minimum CoC of the imaging medium in addition to focal length and aperture. This is not really a factor for reductions or direct prints at native resolution, but it is an important factor for enlargements. You can find formulas here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field (under DOF Formulas.)" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:49:20.817" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5872" PostId="4952" Score="2" Text="It should also be noted that, according to Leslie D. Strobel, in his book &quot;View camera technique&quot;, around page 150 or so, he provides strong evidence and some math indicating that cropping DOES affect the amount of DOF present in a final image. While physically DOF as projected by a lens does not change, the perception of the viewer of a final image should not be ignored when calculating DOF. Read more here: http://books.google.com/books?id=71zxDuunAvMC&amp;lpg=PR1&amp;pg=PA152#v=onepage&amp;q=crop&amp;f=false" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:55:30.767" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5873" PostId="4950" Text="You're welcome :)" CreationDate="2010-11-17T21:12:07.433" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="5874" PostId="4932" Text="I like the &quot;look like a photographer&quot; thing. A lens hood can also serve that purpose :)" CreationDate="2010-11-17T21:15:21.123" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="5876" PostId="4837" Text="How do you plan on doing this?" CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:15:35.733" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5877" PostId="496" Text="@davr, typo in comment :)" CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:21:41.737" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5878" PostId="1256" Text="i liked the last one, which is an improvement" CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:25:23.453" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5879" PostId="1490" Text="very cool photo. Is that a jaguar xj-6 (Soverign) ?" CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:26:13.640" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5880" PostId="4930" Score="1" Text="@Evan Krall you seem to have missed the point of **Reductio ad Absurdum**, my point was that **assume the premise** then you have one lens with the DOF of a 600 f/2.8 and one lens with the DOF of a 600 f/5.6, as this is absurd Ye premise must be false. I'm in agreement with the other answers to this question! " CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:39:53.453" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5881" PostId="4956" Score="1" Text="Define &quot;responsive&quot; - are you talking about the lagtime between shutter button press and taking the photo, or something else?" CreationDate="2010-11-17T22:52:54.407" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="5882" PostId="1490" Text="@RCProgramming: I believe it is Skoda Felicia Combi." CreationDate="2010-11-17T23:01:15.550" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5885" PostId="4943" Text="If I recall Nikon Capture does something like that, though the software is kind of clunky." CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:00:34.573" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5886" PostId="1490" Text="@che: I see... very cool. Where were you when you photographed this" CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:36:38.503" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5887" PostId="4905" Text="posted! also a link to a large photo on Flickr. Looking forward to your output. Thanks Matt." CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:41:45.350" UserId="2181" />
  <row Id="5888" PostId="4972" Text="I thought it was up to 1A ?" CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:50:05.317" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5889" PostId="4972" Score="2" Text="For USB 2.0 the limit is 500mA and for USB 3.0 the limit is 900mA" CreationDate="2010-11-18T09:11:43.497" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="5890" PostId="1490" Text="@RCProgramming: On a street, waiting for a bus." CreationDate="2010-11-18T10:23:10.047" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5891" PostId="4970" Score="3" Text="Telling OP you know the answer isn't particularly helpful." CreationDate="2010-11-18T10:32:13.720" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5892" PostId="4970" Score="2" Text="Just share damn answer :)" CreationDate="2010-11-18T11:51:26.717" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5893" PostId="2201" Text="There might be an adapter though, so that you don't need another one when you upgrade though..." CreationDate="2010-11-18T13:03:01.977" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5894" PostId="4970" Text="@che: OK, I've provide the PS solution even though the OP said he couldn't access it. Hopefully you can provide some equivalent GIMP instructions. @Rafal: Shared :)" CreationDate="2010-11-18T13:08:55.380" UserId="847" />
  <row Id="5895" PostId="4898" Text="I haven't tried either but logic dictates that it should be much easier to track sports people by using a monopod." CreationDate="2010-11-18T13:14:33.670" UserId="1787" />
  <row Id="5896" PostId="4970" Text="@Mike: Thanks! The equivalent tools in GIMP would be &quot;Select by color&quot; tool, then &quot;Colors/Hue-Saturation&quot;, and &quot;Colors/Desaturate&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-18T13:25:04.877" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5897" PostId="4922" Text="Great suggestions everyone, thanks for your answers." CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:14:00.183" UserId="999" />
  <row Id="5898" PostId="4970" Text="@Mike - Cool :) If you know little about GIMP and PS and also know what are you doing in general then very often it turns you are able to use PS tutorial in GIMP without special translation." CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:23:36.947" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="5899" PostId="3740" Text="+1 for using gphoto; there's also a guide to making timelapse videos with it at http://www.moreno.marzolla.name/software/time_lapse_movies/" CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:36:13.847" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="5900" PostId="4957" Text="thank you. But I really need something more compact. I use to have the canon powershot s3 is and it was a very good camera. Loved it. In fact it made me picky. But it is too big for what i need. the s 20 is would no doubt be a good camera though. Thanks a lot for your reply" CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:41:14.657" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="5901" PostId="4958" Text="I'll have a goo look at these two. They seem interesting. " CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:42:01.113" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="5902" PostId="4958" Text="While reading about thes two I foun a few more camera that seems interesting. The powershot sx 210 is , the finepix 70 exr, the coolpix s 8000 , and the panasoni lumix DMC-253 and the 257. If have any comment or suggestion about these or others I'd be glad to hear about it. Thanks again for your anwser." CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:44:56.727" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="5903" PostId="4977" Score="7" Text="Also, the main reason that they are more expensive, is because you need bigger lenses (more glass) to accommodate the wider opening. And glass (good glass), is the most expensive part." CreationDate="2010-11-18T14:50:29.387" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5904" PostId="4977" Score="1" Text="Wouldn't the bokeh of a wide-open f/3.5 prime lens be better then a stepped-down f/1.4 prime thanks to a perfectly round aperture ? Just hit me.." CreationDate="2010-11-18T15:05:39.123" UserId="2025" />
  <row Id="5905" PostId="4969" Text="thaks that would be an incredible camera :) but yeah I'm travelling a lot with 2 young kids and am already a bit overwhelmed with the things I have to carry around  I want something small :) " CreationDate="2010-11-18T15:30:19.620" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="5906" PostId="4958" Text="make that the panasonic DMC_zs3 and zs7 :P " CreationDate="2010-11-18T15:31:10.460" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="5907" PostId="3479" Score="2" Text="+1 for this. When we got married, we had no budget for a real pro, and photography was not really a priority, so we went with a friend, and knew exactly what we were risking. I also photographed my cousin-in-law's elopement for free (their whole wedding budget was probably 200$... certainly no room for even the most budget of photographers) and they were really happy with the result. Not all couples are glitter-happy unrealistic fools." CreationDate="2010-11-18T16:36:23.010" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="5908" PostId="4977" Text="@Berzemus it very well could be, but that also depends on whether you want round or not... and for bokeh, I was assuming wide open..." CreationDate="2010-11-18T17:21:30.340" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="5910" PostId="2739" Text="Excellent! Wish I'd thought of this instead of fiddling around with ImageReady, Paint.Net and Gimp :)" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:24:34.290" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="5912" PostId="4977" Score="1" Text="I would question the last point. That's certainly what I used to believe but the reality is a little different - for example the Canon EF 50 f/1.4 is no sharper stopped down to f/1.8 than the cheaper 50 f/1.8 wide open. There are also other examples of the opposite. When you get to a about f/2.8, primes stopped down don't seem to have that much of an advantage over slower lenses wide open. Sharpness at f/2.8 is dependant on other factors than dispersion due to a wide max aperture. I'd say sharpness is partially dependant on how stopped down you are and partly dependant on absolute aperture." CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:38:48.177" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5913" PostId="4951" Text="In that case good luck!" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:40:37.240" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5914" PostId="4984" Text="I think he means he wants a solid colour behind the text, which you can do in Illustrator and InDesign but not any version of Photoshop as far as I know... " CreationDate="2010-11-18T19:58:40.013" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5915" PostId="4981" Score="1" Text="Does a digital sensor count as “photosensitive material”? ;-)" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:16:27.253" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="5916" PostId="4981" Score="1" Text="Sure, though you need to combine it with a whole lot of stuff before it becomes &quot;interesting&quot; :)" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:25:15.287" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5917" PostId="4984" Text="Oh I see now, I was confused because I didn't get what would be the physical extent of that &quot;background&quot;. I assume that is the bounding box of the text." CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:47:23.517" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5918" PostId="4985" Text="Intriguing idea. :) I am not afraid of a little DIY, and I do feel a bit limited by my current intervolometer (it can only go down to 1 second exposures, which only really works for very low-light or filtered scenes). A home-made one that lets me take shorter exposures would be a boon." CreationDate="2010-11-18T22:23:40.770" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5919" PostId="4810" Text="I made an answer but a comment seems more appropriate, SmugMug also has a wordpress plugin: http://wordpress.org/extend/plugins/wp-smugmug/ (full disclosure: I work for smugmug :))" CreationDate="2010-11-18T23:39:02.623" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5920" PostId="4911" Text="-1 for Xee. I used to love it, then I discovered it does not color manage the images, so it's almost worthless for any photography workflow." CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:20:31.510" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="5921" PostId="4964" Text="Downvoted. I think that camera can produce some interesting art!" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:25:02.367" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="5922" PostId="4899" Text="I think I need the extra degree of freedom of movement.  I am a lot closer to the ice than you would be at a racetrack, and it isn't just a simple panning motion (the skaters move towards me and away)." CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:49:38.020" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5923" PostId="4978" Text="I'm thinking this is probably off-topic for photo.se?" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:53:32.790" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5924" PostId="4993" Score="1" Text="Bear in mind that ADL gives you no gain in dynamic range unless you have highlights. If the image doesn't have anything very bright in it, then all its doing is bumping up the noise, so doesn't really seem like something to leave on all the time." CreationDate="2010-11-19T02:55:10.563" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5925" PostId="4996" Text="they don't have quite the zoom range the poster is asking for (though perhaps with a lens attachment they would?)... that said, they're one of the best quality point &amp; shoot cameras so well worth considering if zoom range can be sacrificed for quality" CreationDate="2010-11-19T04:04:46.047" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5926" PostId="4900" Text="One could always use the Film Drive to get the metadata and then merge it onto a better quality scan from a different device. Good ol' Exiftool will let you do the merging..." CreationDate="2010-11-19T04:33:01.110" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="5927" PostId="4978" Score="1" Text="Hello Wiskin, and welcome to Photo.SE. I do apologize having to do this on your first question, however general Photoshop questions are off topic here. We are a photography related forum, and while we do answer questions involving Photoshop, they must be primarily related to photographic editing. I am closing this question as off-topic, however I hope that you will stick around, and ask any photography related questions you may have in the future. " CreationDate="2010-11-19T05:30:18.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5928" PostId="4972" Score="2" Text="@Guffa, do you have any specs or references for what the Canon, or any DSLR, needs? I would have thought 0.5A @ 5V would be enough to drive the mirror and sensor - maybe not the built-in flash. Maybe I haven't got a good feel for it though." CreationDate="2010-11-19T08:14:12.423" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="5929" PostId="4997" Score="1" Text="This site concentrates on the photography, so there may not be enough videographers here to give an authoritative answer. One thing I can say is that it is well documented that some TV shows have been filmed using DSLRs; I'd also suggest that SLRs aren't just for professionals." CreationDate="2010-11-19T08:41:27.653" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5931" PostId="4502" Score="1" Text="Hi Sridhar, and welcome to Photo.SE. Just a quick word of advice, to prevent any further or future downvotes. While we don't mind having specific sites linked in an answer, we do prefer that any key useful tidbits of information from applicable sites be quoted in an answer. It is also generally frowned upon when someone answers with &quot;Just google it&quot;. Our ultimate goal is to build up a persistent base of information here, that is valuable even after linked sites or searchable information on google may be gone. Add some specifics about &quot;cross processing&quot;, and you'll likely get some upvotes." CreationDate="2010-11-19T09:29:04.817" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5932" PostId="4999" Text="The Red One is brilliant for lots of things, but it's worth knowing that it suffers from [rolling shutter artefacts](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_shutter) and that the output is quite desaturated." CreationDate="2010-11-19T13:08:32.727" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5933" PostId="4985" Text="@jrista, yes, anything you can do with a remote release you'll be able to control with the Arduino. You should be able to programmatically time bulb exposures and trigger autofocus too." CreationDate="2010-11-19T13:35:09.187" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="5934" PostId="4978" Text="I think this question was on the fringe, I answered it because I found it relevant in the context of creating watermarks on a photo." CreationDate="2010-11-19T13:42:55.623" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5935" PostId="4999" Text="It seems rolling shutter is inevitable with high resolution output, though shooting at 100fps ought to mitigate the effects to a degree. I think most people operating a Red One will be planning on grading the film anyway so desaturated output is not a problem, especially if you short in REDCODE. " CreationDate="2010-11-19T13:43:37.007" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="5936" PostId="4997" Score="2" Text="Based on discussion on the meta site, questions about cinematography and video equipment are off-topic.  Recommend this be closed." CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:38:25.267" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="5938" PostId="4991" Text="As much as I'm not super comfortable with people accepting their own answer, I might do it here since I'm quoting the photographer himself. OK?" CreationDate="2010-11-19T17:19:33.043" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5939" PostId="5004" Score="1" Text="For whatever reason, I prefer white matting on a physical photograph (in a frame or otherwise) but a black background when its displayed digitally.  Maybe white on a LCD monitor is too bright (for me)?" CreationDate="2010-11-19T17:25:11.963" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="5943" PostId="5001" Text="All of a sudden, my old A20 feels **very** old... (which I think did do orientation, by the way)" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:35:12.710" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5944" PostId="5011" Text="Agree. But wouldn't a first time buyer choose a less expensive D3100 or D90 instead? Or since a first time buyer cares about some not very relevant characteristics like the number of megapixels or the ability to make videos, a D7000 would be more desirable?" CreationDate="2010-11-19T19:34:39.013" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="5945" PostId="5011" Text="This. Precisely the process I've been through. I've now spent considerably more on lenses than I did on my D50 originally!" CreationDate="2010-11-19T21:34:23.793" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="5946" PostId="5010" Score="2" Text="ImageMagick is really good for batch processing of images." CreationDate="2010-11-19T22:36:06.383" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="5947" PostId="4964" Text="Me too, but I wouldn't take the risk of destroying a beautiful camera when you could make some interesting art with one that you can buy film for easily." CreationDate="2010-11-19T23:11:51.787" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5948" PostId="5008" Text="In terms of kit lenses, Nikon is generally regarded as being better than most. Even the 18-55mm isn't that bad compared to the competition." CreationDate="2010-11-19T23:31:58.860" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="5949" PostId="5015" Text="Do you have any example photos (I have several tlrs) and can you use interchangable (hopefully fisheye) lenses?" CreationDate="2010-11-20T01:04:27.273" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5950" PostId="5015" Score="1" Text="updated answer with requested link." CreationDate="2010-11-20T01:20:07.257" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="5952" PostId="5015" Text="Do you know anything about graflex tlrs? Also, can you please check my other question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5016/affordable-medium-format-slr" CreationDate="2010-11-20T01:28:01.300" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5953" PostId="5014" Score="1" Text="+1 Great question. I'd also be interested in knowing what some good entry-level MF film cameras there are. Been thinking about large format, but am not really ready to get deep into the ultimate film cameras yet." CreationDate="2010-11-20T01:37:28.647" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5955" PostId="5014" Text="I edited it. I mean around 250 or less" CreationDate="2010-11-20T01:53:01.990" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5956" PostId="5019" Text="Needs to be CW but cannot enable that myself. Hope an OP can do that on my behalf?" CreationDate="2010-11-20T05:21:05.290" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="5957" PostId="5014" Text="Is it a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5014/affordable-entry-level-medium-format" CreationDate="2010-11-20T06:18:41.770" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5958" PostId="118" Text="You might get some answers on the [Wordpress site](http://wordpress.stackexchange.com/)" CreationDate="2010-11-20T12:35:17.577" UserId="441" />
  <row Id="5960" PostId="4953" Text="It can't possibly be the *only* solution. There's a lot of software in the world, and this one seems (as it says) tedious." CreationDate="2010-11-20T14:16:29.067" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="5961" PostId="5026" Text="+1, RAW all the way." CreationDate="2010-11-20T14:47:56.360" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5962" PostId="5029" Score="2" Text="More like 1-1/2 to 2 stops." CreationDate="2010-11-20T16:54:10.287" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5963" PostId="5011" Text="Even the 18-105 disparaged by the OP is often considered to be a great value; e.g., Thom Hogan prefers it over the 18-200: http://bythom.com/nikon-dx-lens-summary.htm" CreationDate="2010-11-20T16:58:34.470" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="5964" PostId="5029" Text="You're right. Corrected." CreationDate="2010-11-20T17:50:50.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="5965" PostId="5032" Text="Regarding public art: doesn't freedom of panorama apply to that? I know for sure that Czech copyright law allows me to photograph art permanently installed on public property and use it any way I want." CreationDate="2010-11-20T18:50:28.547" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="5966" PostId="5032" Score="1" Text="Regarding public art, see also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4140/21" CreationDate="2010-11-20T20:08:54.680" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5967" PostId="5009" Text="Every camera I've used which lacks the sensor has some menu function where you can go through and manually change the rotation information. (My knowledge here covers Pentax, Fujifilm, and Olympus, but I'm sure others do it as well.) So I wouldn't count on that." CreationDate="2010-11-20T22:53:07.160" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="5968" PostId="5014" Text="@sebastien.b I wrote the other one. It is clearly not a duplicate if you actually read the question" CreationDate="2010-11-20T23:45:14.263" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="5969" PostId="5034" Text="@john - When I was deciding which plugin would be my first, my searches led me to the crossroads of Topaz or Nik Software or OnOne. Good reviews for this plugin as well. Maybe my next purchase when I have some budget" CreationDate="2010-11-21T01:18:32.603" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="5970" PostId="5033" Score="1" Text="I've seen $7 batteries on eBay for the 7D. I've bought and used $5 eBay batteries on my 450D (3 different batteries) and had no problems with them. They seemed to perform as well as my Canon battery, except that the Canon one stopped recharging after about 18 months." CreationDate="2010-11-21T01:19:54.113" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5971" PostId="5033" Text="I picked the $40 from B&amp;H. But I think the basic point still stands." CreationDate="2010-11-21T02:52:48.367" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="5972" PostId="5031" Score="2" Text="A comment I would have to this question is that this is not a legal website filled with experts in law. This is important, because if there is any doubt at all you might have, it is best to consult a lawyer with experience in this realm for your local area. Local laws differ, so what applies to you may not to me and vice versa." CreationDate="2010-11-21T03:29:40.720" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5973" PostId="5036" Text="Have you got&quot;Auto sync&quot; enabled?" CreationDate="2010-11-21T11:40:41.197" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="5974" PostId="2721" Text="Too many extension tubes and the subject will be inside your lens.  TC's are great for increasing magnification without decreasing working distance, but generally affect image quality negatively." CreationDate="2010-11-21T19:20:21.670" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="5975" PostId="5014" Score="1" Text="How exactly are they different? You've asked two questions about &quot;affordable&quot; medium format cameras. On one of them you have qualified it with 120 film, however fundamentally these two questions are identical. Both are extremely basic, and could stand to be merged into a single question. There is no reason you can't ask both of these tiny and directly related questions in a single thread. Barring any clear and valid reason why these two questions should remain separate, I'll merge them within the next couple of hours." CreationDate="2010-11-21T19:56:28.050" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="5976" PostId="4943" Text="Add to List: gum, combs, fabric softener sheets" CreationDate="2010-11-21T20:01:34.163" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="5977" PostId="5008" Score="1" Text="If a so-called semi-professional photographer buys a camera, they probably wouldn't buy the kit anyway, just the body, so what lens is included in the D7000 &quot;kit&quot; package is probably irrelevant from the point of view of a semi-professional photographer." CreationDate="2010-11-21T20:08:01.650" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="5978" PostId="4953" Text="@mattdm: It depends on how on how difficult it is to perform the segmentation. If there is a simple rectangular border of a single colour then the cropping operation is trivial (in fact irfanview can perform this automatically with Ctrl+Shift+Y). But if there is noise in the border--or worse, clutter--then then the cropping is not that simple, and many algorithms can struggle and make mistakes. Having said that, I've not used _all_ software, so if anyone has a better solution then I'd be glad to hear it :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-21T23:04:23.300" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5979" PostId="5010" Text="This looks like it could produce a good solution when combined with the `-fuzz` operator." CreationDate="2010-11-21T23:08:35.217" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="5980" PostId="3395" Text="&quot;Lenmar probably makes a poor clone.&quot; ????? I've had a Panasonic FZ20 for nearly 6 years, and when I bought it in Dec 2004, I immediately bought a 2nd battery which was a Lenmar battery. The two batteries are both still holding up fine. So Lenmar has earned my trust and I would have gladly used their battery in my camera if Panasonic hadn't enabled the anti-3rd-party feature." CreationDate="2010-11-21T23:58:55.313" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="5981" PostId="5031" Text="Agreed, and I realize that any crowd-sourced question is not guaranteed to be 100% accurate and may even be different in various localities. However, I think this is probably a question that professional or experienced amateurs would know off the top of their heads. But I do appreciate the reminder that &quot;you get what you pay for&quot; essentially." CreationDate="2010-11-22T00:13:16.897" UserId="2249" />
  <row Id="5982" PostId="5033" Score="1" Text="For $40 generics, I'd agree, but I don't think either point still stands for $7 batteries: If I buy 2 batteries, I save a little over $100, which is now about 8% of my 7D cost. And from my experience, the batteries which cost about 10% of the Canon price are at least 80% of the capacity." CreationDate="2010-11-22T02:48:46.877" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5983" PostId="5031" Text="@Haeriphos: As long as you know. :) However, I would dispute the &quot;off the top their heads&quot; angle. Just before I went to Italy, there was all sorts of people warning me about the laws there and how draconian they've become. The one, and only time, I saw a legal reaction to a camera was in the Sistine Chapel, nowhere else, even then, they let the person keep the image." CreationDate="2010-11-22T02:49:15.170" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5984" PostId="5017" Text="Valid points about the I/O, I think I might give some generics a try since I really don't shoot video that much... and my experience with computers makes me think general write operations won't corrupt the filesystem, so I'll just take that risk ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-22T02:51:02.253" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5985" PostId="5045" Text="Seems the &quot;made out plastic&quot; applies to the tripod, in that link, not the head. BUT the photos..." CreationDate="2010-11-22T03:34:01.203" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="5986" PostId="3499" Text="A polarizer should work about the same with plexiglas as real glass. The key is whether the reflecting surface is an electrically conductive material. The reflection is polarized if and only if the surface is non-conductive. Technically, that' simplifying a bit, but it's close enough for most practical purposes (e.g., reflections off of metal won't be polarized, but reflections off of plastic, glass and leave will be)." CreationDate="2010-11-22T04:15:36.393" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="5987" PostId="3499" Text="Probably worth considering cleaning the windows before take-off, as the polariser will get rid of the reflections from a clean window but won't help with streaks. Side windows on aircraft always seem to be quite dirty in my experience (perhaps they're not cleaned so often as part of regular maintenance?)" CreationDate="2010-11-22T04:49:59.017" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5988" PostId="5047" Score="2" Text="There is an inexpensive adapter for the GorillaPod that lets it hold a flash. Makes it easy to set up a second flash in an unusual location..." CreationDate="2010-11-22T08:13:50.940" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="5989" PostId="3499" Text="If you're shooting out of a window make sure the filters are screwed on tight. Dropping stuff out of aircraft is very illegal." CreationDate="2010-11-22T11:18:31.687" UserId="2269" />
  <row Id="5990" PostId="5046" Score="2" Text="Should this be a community wiki?" CreationDate="2010-11-22T12:42:49.323" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="5991" PostId="5035" Text="Really useful link, thank you. BTW: I've been following this question and quite a few others started by you Sean, because it seems that we have the same interest namely sports photography." CreationDate="2010-11-22T14:12:07.720" UserId="1787" />
  <row Id="5992" PostId="5048" Text="Books! I totally forgot about the books (which I ask for every birthday/Christmas as things I think others can easily get). Good call" CreationDate="2010-11-22T14:19:05.350" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5993" PostId="5047" Text="Oh cool, didn't know about that, looks like my gorillapod might get some loving again now I have ETTL remote flash on the 7D (:" CreationDate="2010-11-22T14:21:41.167" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="5994" PostId="5050" Text="Can you make the raw file available? Also, what software are you using for conversion and what dSLR is it?" CreationDate="2010-11-22T14:39:38.570" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="5995" PostId="5046" Text="I am honoured ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-22T15:10:44.930" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="5996" PostId="5047" Score="1" Text="well, _that_ was a pretty comprehendsive answer!  +1  ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-22T15:11:52.293" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="5997" PostId="5049" Text="I like the gallery idea :)" CreationDate="2010-11-22T15:12:21.153" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="5998" PostId="5045" Text="@sebastien.b: As the head is non-removable, I think that it is meant to apply to the head also." CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:02:34.127" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="5999" PostId="5044" Text="The PH-159Q is a non-removalbe head used on the inexpensive range of tripods, so it's actually very different from the pro-series PH-157Q, despite the similarities in the name." CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:05:32.797" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="6000" PostId="5048" Score="1" Text="I would recommend the Scott Kelby series of Digital photography books.  I got all 3 in a set for like $45 (CAN$) - really useful stuff and in very easy to understand language" CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:38:28.600" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="6001" PostId="5050" Text="Could you post an exported JPEG?" CreationDate="2010-11-22T17:02:06.767" UserId="2269" />
  <row Id="6002" PostId="3178" Text="No window is much better than a clean window. But is hard to do." CreationDate="2010-11-22T17:32:19.567" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="6003" PostId="5061" Text="Warm up time is a good suggestion, I calibrated these in the afternoon on a work day so they'd probably been running for 6-7 hours.  I hadn't considered that the backlight would affect color (duh) and that 'Pro Editing' monitors have to add value somehow and color consistency would obviously be one spot to do that." CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:28:29.097" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6004" PostId="5061" Score="1" Text="@Shizam: One thing I forgot to mention (but should have) is that this is a real benefit of LED backlights -- they're *extremely* stable." CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:30:01.247" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="6005" PostId="5055" Text="I'm also excited about the Impossible Project but I really wish they'd get some 4x5 sized sheets out there." CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:30:18.533" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6006" PostId="4956" Text="When I take the picture I want it to do it on the spot and I'd expect it to &quot;reload&quot; fast enough ton take another quickly." CreationDate="2010-11-22T19:32:57.113" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="6007" PostId="4956" Text="so yeah basically I am speaking of the lagtime between shutter button press an photo taken and the time once it is taken and the camera ready to shoot a new one." CreationDate="2010-11-22T19:34:23.150" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="6008" PostId="5014" Score="1" Text="+1 on merging, thanks." CreationDate="2010-11-22T19:44:38.607" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6009" PostId="5017" Score="1" Text="There are several 3rd party batteries with a decoded chip to allow camera communication (and charging with the OEM charger).  I picked up two generic 2100mAh batteries with decoded chips for 19 bucks each. They have about the same run time as the standard 1800mAh canon battery in my 60D but cost 60% less and they show battery charge information and charge in the canon charger without issue.  I think you'll find that there may be issues with 3rd party batteries but not often enough to worry about." CreationDate="2010-11-22T22:06:15.433" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="6010" PostId="3922" Text="@jrista: I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the GT0541. Would you mind giving me your opinion on the GH1781QR head? The GH1780QR you have has been around for a while (introduced on Amazon in 2003, http://goo.gl/WPLcs), and the GH1781QR is much newer (on Amazon in 2010, http://goo.gl/cCbas). Both specs on Gitzo.com look completely identical (http://goo.gl/V9StI vs. http://goo.gl/hZuBj), which seems to indicate the GH1781 is the new iteration. Links to B&amp;H pages too: http://goo.gl/Okwx8 vs. http://goo.gl/P5Ye2 ; I would be inclined to buy the more modern version. What do you think? Thanks." CreationDate="2010-11-22T22:13:32.140" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6011" PostId="5070" Text="Thanks for that. I must have misread the manual; I got the impression it was only used for Live View. I'll give it a go with the viewfinder." CreationDate="2010-11-23T01:54:50.147" UserId="1655" />
  <row Id="6012" PostId="5067" Text="Thanks for the extra details on hardware, I forgot to ask for suggestions on how the problem might be solved.  Good info on the Spyder 3." CreationDate="2010-11-23T01:57:01.487" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6013" PostId="5067" Text="Spyder 3 OTW, puttin' it to the test." CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:15:11.057" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6014" PostId="5070" Text="It's not the most useful button in the world — any significant change in DOF will also significantly darken the viewfinder making it hard to actually see if something's in focus or not... I generally just take a few shots at different apertures to &quot;preview&quot; DOF." CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:25:45.107" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6015" PostId="3922" Text="I like the ball head. It is very easy to use, and the quick release is &quot;safe&quot; (i.e. using it won't allow the camera to simply fall out of the head and hit the ground). I believe the new version, the 1781, is identical. Gitzo released a new series of 'pods, and I think the newer ball head was simply updated to match. I got the older one because it was a little cheaper, that was pretty much all the reason to it." CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:43:32.923" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6016" PostId="5067" Text="Make sure it is the Elite. I am not sure that the Spyder3Pro comes with the new v4.0 software, where as I am pretty certain the Spyder3Elite does. It is the v4.0 software you really want, more than the device, since it is the software that offers all the multi-device profile synchronization." CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:44:39.757" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6017" PostId="5035" Text="I'm new to SLR photography, but am having a lot of fun learning how to shoot Figure Skating.  It's challenging, but when you get good shots, it is very satisfying." CreationDate="2010-11-23T04:10:39.317" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="6018" PostId="5064" Text="thanks for the info. could you point me to some photoshop tutorials online which will help me do this. I have tried some queries on google &amp; was unsuccessful." CreationDate="2010-11-23T05:45:12.357" UserId="2212" />
  <row Id="6019" PostId="5072" Text="Wow, very thorough answer. Thanks very much for that!" CreationDate="2010-11-23T06:34:43.557" UserId="1655" />
  <row Id="6020" PostId="5072" Score="1" Text="It should be noted that these days, with most DSLR's (if not all) having a live-view capability, it is pretty essential to use the DOF preview button with live view enabled. Unlike the physical viewfinder, previewing DOF with the LCD screen is MUCH more accurate. The larger size of the LCD screen makes it much easier to see what your DOF will look like in the final picture." CreationDate="2010-11-23T07:04:48.880" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6021" PostId="4955" Text="No its not the same size, the book covers may vary in length/width." CreationDate="2010-11-23T07:17:57.107" UserId="2207" />
  <row Id="6022" PostId="5072" Text="+1 for the focus screen info, I didn't realise it's full effect on DOF until now. Good explanation." CreationDate="2010-11-23T07:34:40.040" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="6023" PostId="5064" Text="I don't know of any tutorials online. I'll see if I can create a few images showing how...its pretty easy." CreationDate="2010-11-23T07:41:03.623" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6024" PostId="5073" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/1783/21" CreationDate="2010-11-23T08:51:22.380" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6025" PostId="1374" Text="2.0 at least of what?" CreationDate="2010-11-23T10:23:10.370" UserId="2283" />
  <row Id="6026" PostId="5067" Text="That's an amazingly well-informed answer.  My head is reeling! +1" CreationDate="2010-11-23T10:51:20.857" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6028" PostId="5074" Text="If possible putting the torch on your subject and shining it back at the camera can be more effective, and in most cases allow you to AF." CreationDate="2010-11-23T11:41:18.223" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6029" PostId="5075" Score="1" Text="I've seen no indication that USMs are any more accurate (on a static target - they are faster) than traditional focus motors, also the Canon 50 f/1.4 features a micro-USM which is essentially an compact ultra-sonic version of the geared motor and not really like the proper ring type USM found in other more expensive lenses, so I wouldn't consider upgrading from the 1.8 for the focus motor alone! " CreationDate="2010-11-23T12:29:56.817" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6030" PostId="5069" Text="I'm removing the canon-60d tag from this, because any mid-grade and up model will have this, and many entry-level models will too." CreationDate="2010-11-23T14:18:15.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6031" PostId="5083" Score="1" Text="An option for &quot;how to get particulate into the air&quot; could be a very careful application of a smoke machine... with the facility's approval, of course. Just don't over do it." CreationDate="2010-11-23T14:37:22.633" UserId="2290" />
  <row Id="6032" PostId="5082" Text="No long exposure here, or the people would be much more blurry." CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:12:16.977" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6033" PostId="5085" Text="It sure sounds to me like there's something non-parklike about this location; otherwise even the most vigorous security department would have a hard time convincing someone that there's any reason to restrict photography.  Can you explain what, exactly, the security department is there to protect?" CreationDate="2010-11-23T17:46:21.233" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="6034" PostId="5067" Text="Yup, I confirmed the that the purchase was for the Elite version and that 4.0 comes with any newly purchased device." CreationDate="2010-11-23T18:09:23.270" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6035" PostId="5061" Text="Well I think this is certainly the answer to why so I'm markin' this solved.  Hopefully jrista's suggestion for a fix will work out.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-11-23T18:10:42.473" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6036" PostId="5083" Text="Yeah a smoke machine is really good for getting shafts of light: http://www.flickr.com/photos/matt_grum/2063566821/" CreationDate="2010-11-23T18:59:09.313" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6037" PostId="5085" Score="1" Text="I think you underestimate the power of bureacracy. :) I believe security has a policy of &quot;no photos&quot; for whatever reason, and the guards are just doing their job." CreationDate="2010-11-23T19:13:58.743" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6038" PostId="5090" Text="@Alan, I think I addressed your questions in the question. Let me know if not. Thanks for the followup." CreationDate="2010-11-23T19:14:47.743" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6039" PostId="5077" Text="Laser pointers are great for this, coupled with manual focus." CreationDate="2010-11-23T19:28:11.080" UserId="71" />
  <row Id="6040" PostId="5090" Text="I think Alan has a point. Or, to not violate the ban, you can show the owner collection of great pictures from similar parks (perhaps selected from Flickr) to demonstrate that other similar places allow photography and that it helps people keep memories nice of the place." CreationDate="2010-11-23T20:39:55.127" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6041" PostId="5079" Text="The question seems to describe focusing on a distant subject at such low levels that not even manual focusing with live view can work. It appears the distance of the subject rules out lighting the subject with a torch or pointer. So in this case I must agree that focus bracketing seems to be the best option." CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:47:12.127" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6042" PostId="5095" Text="Seems on topic to me. I took the liberty of removing the self-deprecation. Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-23T23:10:34.783" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6043" PostId="5094" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! I'm concerned about topicality.... does this have relevance to photography? Perhaps you could add an example explaining how." CreationDate="2010-11-23T23:11:46.497" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6044" PostId="5094" Text="This seems off-topic as it's not about photography or editing photos - it's about creating graphic effects." CreationDate="2010-11-23T23:46:59.807" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6045" PostId="5094" Score="1" Text="I think it's off topic, it's graphics effects." CreationDate="2010-11-24T00:29:04.333" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6046" PostId="5074" Text="Unfortunately, no. The objects are distant, as I’m dealing with landscapes and/or night sky shots." CreationDate="2010-11-24T01:46:35.437" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="6047" PostId="5069" Text="@mattdm - no problem, thanks. Being new to DSLRs I wasn't sure how common this function was." CreationDate="2010-11-24T01:53:28.690" UserId="1655" />
  <row Id="6048" PostId="5073" Text="Is there anything of a similar distance in any other direction that you could focus on? It doesn't need to be in the frame to be used to set up the focus. And how far can you stop down? If you can increase the DOF then anything above the hyperfocal distance would be &quot;good enough&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-24T02:30:51.270" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6049" PostId="5069" Text="Yeah, not complaining, just explaining why I was retagging your post. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-24T03:55:12.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6050" PostId="5100" Text="Very interesting.  I had no idea that Kinect could do this.  I was under the impression that when shooting images or video, it would simply use one camera, and that using both cameras was strictly for calculating the 3d aspects.  Very interesting..." CreationDate="2010-11-24T04:32:20.190" UserId="2034" />
  <row Id="6051" PostId="5092" Score="1" Text="Voted up this one because you really don't need to know all the &quot;technical things&quot; for shooting this. It's plain observation. Get a shiny light source, spray some dust and BOOM! :)" CreationDate="2010-11-24T04:45:20.890" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="6052" PostId="5101" Text="I'm not sure I'd really call that high-key. It's a little lighter in exposure than many people would treat it, but there's a lot of midtone texture." CreationDate="2010-11-24T05:03:10.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6053" PostId="5101" Text="You're looking at light sources from both left and right, one from the top corner in front (near the photographer) at the very least." CreationDate="2010-11-24T05:04:54.050" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6054" PostId="1703" Text="Isn't this in the instruction manual? If not, it'll certainly be in the documentation with any firmware update." CreationDate="2010-11-24T05:05:20.340" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6055" PostId="5100" Text="You only get video from one camera at a time, but you can toggle between them. Then you get two different almost-in-agreement models of the world, on which to base your final projection." CreationDate="2010-11-24T06:28:17.410" UserId="2094" />
  <row Id="6056" PostId="4892" Score="5" Text="Can't stress the point about taking the photo *now* enough. I was on a tropical island in Indonesia a few months ago, beautiful view, boring sunset... then suddenly in a matter of seconds half the sky went red just as the sun was passing out of view. In the 10 seconds it took me to grab my camera and move to a better vantage point it was half gone... I've not seen anything like it before, and only got a tiny portion of the effect." CreationDate="2010-11-24T06:37:50.340" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6057" PostId="5100" Text="I wonder if they use the technologies developed by Microsoft Research for [Photosynth](http://photosynth.net/view.aspx?cid=916b275c-78df-4ee9-9a18-e51829089624) for this..." CreationDate="2010-11-24T09:01:53.970" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6058" PostId="4921" Text="Do not forget about TPE! http://photoephemeris.com/ great tool!" CreationDate="2010-11-24T10:03:29.710" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="6059" PostId="5110" Score="2" Text="+1. Although, there may have been a suggestion in the question that the optical quality of the glass could affect the amount of light that is transmitted. I'm not sure how much testing is done on lenses to see how 'lossy' they are, but any light losses due to inferior glass are likely to be negligible. And even if there are losses, they certainly wont come anywhere near a full stop." CreationDate="2010-11-24T11:52:43.133" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="6060" PostId="5117" Text="I am not concerned about shooting photos at a high ISO.  I pretty much leave it on auto for the DMC-ZS3 (which usually is ISO-200).  But even manually setting the ISO to 100 on the DMC-ZS3 did not help." CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:10:28.960" UserId="2248" />
  <row Id="6061" PostId="5117" Score="1" Text="According to the specifications from dpreview the DMC-ZS3 sensor is 0.28 cm² and the Canon S2 is 0.24 cm².  So sensor size cannot explain the problem... but now I know that sensor size is an important feature!" CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:13:38.550" UserId="2248" />
  <row Id="6062" PostId="5117" Score="1" Text="Regarding my previous comment about sensor size: Could the problem be that the DMC-ZS3 sensor is pretty much the same size as the Canon S2 yet it is trying to take a picture that is twice as big?" CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:15:20.797" UserId="2248" />
  <row Id="6063" PostId="5111" Text="+1 for optical flow. Another possibility for this is the excellent Foundry [Kronos](http://www.thefoundry.co.uk/products/kronos/) plugin for After Effects. License is less than $1 a day to rent." CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:17:03.180" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="6064" PostId="5114" Text="Could you post examples of the pictures taken with either camera?" CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:22:30.617" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6065" PostId="5117" Score="3" Text="Both are compact cameras, with approximately the same sensor size. But the newer camera has more megapixels, so it has a _smaller_ pixel size. So there is less light per pixel, so it has to amplify the amplify the signal more, and thus it has to either do more aggressive noise reduction (=&gt; details are lost) or produce a more grainy image. Did you try to compare them at the same resolution (2560 x 1920) or do you compare 5MP shot to 10MP shot looking at 1:1 scale at both?" CreationDate="2010-11-24T15:27:05.933" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6066" PostId="4921" Text="I didn't know about TPE until just now; thanks for pointing it out! The portable TPE looks even more useful, so I hope the Android version comes out soon..." CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:00:43.087" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="6067" PostId="5119" Score="4" Text="Note that the difference between the Huey and the Huey Pro is in the bundled software, so if you're ignoring that (as you would if using Linux) then there's no point in paying extra for the Pro." CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:02:04.173" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6068" PostId="5094" Score="1" Text="Isn't this a case of starting with a real photo and removing the background? (which could be applied to other things, other than a sheet of paper)" CreationDate="2010-11-24T18:20:15.773" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6069" PostId="1810" Text="Does Lightroom let you archive off the RAW images, but keep the image searchable in the main catalog?" CreationDate="2010-11-24T18:46:20.380" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6070" PostId="1810" Text="Yes, once you've cataloged an image in Lightroom you can detach that media (remove a DVD, unplug a hard drive, etc) and the image thumbnail and metadata remains accessible/searchable from Lightroom.  If you end up wanting to make any actual edits to the image, you'll need the source media at that point." CreationDate="2010-11-24T18:59:54.900" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6071" PostId="5127" Score="2" Text="Awesome! The best explanation I can ever get. Thanks :)" CreationDate="2010-11-24T19:26:42.010" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="6072" PostId="5014" Text="@jrista one is about medium format cameras while the other is specifacally medium format slrs, though i understand your merging reasons, i wasn't as clear as i should have been" CreationDate="2010-11-24T20:04:31.657" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="6073" PostId="5119" Text="Reid, I saw that on the Argyll CMS page, but in looking at B&amp;H, Adorama, and Amazon, it appears that the Pro version is the only one currently for sale." CreationDate="2010-11-24T21:35:04.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6074" PostId="5129" Text="This would be my guess too; superzooms often have quirky bokeh. You could narrow it down by shooting a focus testing chart at the same aperture and looking at the character of the bokeh - if it looks similar, that would confirm." CreationDate="2010-11-24T22:01:50.420" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6075" PostId="1914" Text="For one, you're giving up one whole stop of light. That's half the shutter speed or twice the ISO required." CreationDate="2010-11-24T22:38:40.827" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6076" PostId="5132" Text="I use this a lot - very handy feature" CreationDate="2010-11-24T22:49:09.410" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="6077" PostId="5128" Score="2" Text="What aperture, focal length and focal distance did you use?" CreationDate="2010-11-25T00:51:41.963" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6078" PostId="5129" Score="2" Text="I'd agree as well. At a rough guess I'd say it was shot at 200mm, f/5.6 from about 2 metres away on a Nikon DX camera. This would give a DOF of 1 cm either side of the focal plane. If it was f/11 it'd be 2 cm either side. The rear petals look to be more than 2cm from the front ones." CreationDate="2010-11-25T00:56:12.787" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6079" PostId="3960" Text="Apart from the age of the camera, why are you upgrading? Depending on your specific problems with your gear (and what lenses you already have), it might be more effective to get a new lens than a new camera body — the two are obviously very interrelated." CreationDate="2010-11-25T01:25:41.047" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6080" PostId="3859" Text="There are various rumours going around that the 5Dmk3 or equivalent will come out in 2011, and will pick up some of the newer features from the 7D, so it would really just come down to sensor size in that case (if you can wait a few months...)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T01:29:28.157" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6081" PostId="3859" Text="@drfrigsplat: Aye, the 5D3 will pick up some of the 7D's features. It will get a similar (but not identical) AF system, and probably the LCD viewfinder. It  won't, however, get the considerable speed of the 7D, keeping the 7D as an ideal camera for sports and wildlife." CreationDate="2010-11-25T03:10:22.407" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6082" PostId="5014" Text="Even if one was &quot;specifically&quot; about MFSLR's, the two are still so closely related that a single topic would do. You can ask two distinct but closely related questions in a single topic. ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T03:11:52.437" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6083" PostId="5093" Text="Thats a great tool." CreationDate="2010-11-25T06:14:29.353" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6084" PostId="4894" Score="1" Text="+1 for &quot;free (as in freedom)&quot; :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T09:31:32.443" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="6085" PostId="5141" Score="2" Text="Some ball heads have a separate panorama rotation mechanism allowing you to turn them without unlocking the ball. Also tripods with a centre column should allow this by just unlocking the centre column and turning it (assuming you don't want it raised)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T10:46:28.727" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6086" PostId="977" Score="3" Text="B&amp;W grain is much more pleasant than sensor noise" CreationDate="2010-11-25T10:55:55.230" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6087" PostId="5141" Text="That's why I've written &quot;or any head + rotator&quot; below. Good point about the centre column. The mine doesn't rotate though (the head can rotate, but only when the ball is unlocked too)." CreationDate="2010-11-25T11:05:39.720" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6088" PostId="5117" Text="Advanced compacts like the Panasonic LX5, Canon G12 or Nikon P7000 have a larger sensor size in a compact body. Another way to go could be micro 4/3 cameras (Olympus PEN, Panasonic GF2)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T11:10:10.717" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6089" PostId="5141" Text="Better than my answer!  ;)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T11:36:06.680" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6090" PostId="3411" Text="I'm a happy Bibble Pro customer, but Bibble Lite could be a cheaper and interesting alternative" CreationDate="2010-11-25T12:05:10.377" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6091" PostId="5116" Text="I'm also in the process of buying a color calibrator for Linux, do you have a good link that explains how to use it with Gnome Color Manager/Argyll" CreationDate="2010-11-25T12:25:48.777" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6094" PostId="5133" Text="I dropped the answer as I missed the link you already had. Good read anyways..." CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:13:58.950" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6095" PostId="5094" Text="thanks rowland, I would say masking images is a rather basic photography/retouch skill, but that's just me... " CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:27:51.247" UserId="2299" />
  <row Id="6096" PostId="5162" Score="1" Text="I'll wait for the wiki change, as I have one that DIY Photography doesn't link to on my site. They've already featured the other." CreationDate="2010-11-25T17:25:18.417" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6097" PostId="3961" Text="Additionally the D7000 lost the drive-button. One of the buttons I sometimes use (fast switching to timer/single shot). See http://www.dpreview.com/previews/nikond7000/page6.asp" CreationDate="2010-11-25T17:27:47.717" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6098" PostId="5164" Text="+1. Good alternative. So the collars shipped with 200-400mm or 80-400mm don't have those attachments for neck strap?" CreationDate="2010-11-25T18:01:23.783" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="6099" PostId="5162" Text="This guy made his own fully working manual film camera: http://www.retrothing.com/2010/03/homemade-slr-camera.html" CreationDate="2010-11-25T18:53:07.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6100" PostId="478" Text="It's available as a pre-built package you can just `yum install` in Fedora. " CreationDate="2010-11-25T19:06:48.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6102" PostId="5170" Text="Thanks. I works great and it's really easy." CreationDate="2010-11-25T19:36:30.540" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="6103" PostId="5153" Text="I find my current solution has quite a strong effect regards polarised filtering, but it's the side-effects (lower contrast, glare, worse sharpness) that I'd like to reduce." CreationDate="2010-11-25T20:42:12.130" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="6104" PostId="5128" Text="@drfrogsplat 5.6, 1/40, 200 mm (this is a DX lens, so 300 mm equivalent). I don't remember the focal distance and it seems to be missing from the EXIF, but the minimum of this lens is 50 cm and it probably wasn't much more than that. Same stats apply to the second sample (without edge) I posted in the edit, but the distance would be bigger, maybe over a meter.  " CreationDate="2010-11-25T22:06:40.140" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="6105" PostId="5156" Text="While this isn't directly what I meant (I didn't want a bigger DOF in this picture), I find your post highly informative. I didn't know such a technique existed. Thanks. " CreationDate="2010-11-25T22:10:21.370" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="6106" PostId="5134" Text="Very useful information, thank you. And I think you have given me the perfect idea of how to get my hands dirty with mobile applications. I wanted to try writing something for my phone anyway, and such a calculator seems useful and easy. " CreationDate="2010-11-25T22:19:43.083" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="6107" PostId="5154" Text="My second example shows that it is only present in some pictures, but not in others. So while it might really be a lens defect, it doesn't always affect a picture. I hoped that there is some common knowledge how to make photos where it is not present. " CreationDate="2010-11-25T22:22:20.180" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="6108" PostId="5134" Text="I've got a couple of those apps on my iPhone, and while useful, it'd be more useful to me to have simple graphs to look at — I think graphs would make it much quicker to pick your aperture based on the lens + distance for example, or better still, to be able to remember the graph in your head after using it enough times (where a calculator doesn't really help you remember anything other than the 1 specific sample)" CreationDate="2010-11-25T23:28:52.687" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6109" PostId="5128" Text="So the DOF calculator I linked to in my answer can't even provide a DOF for that shot because it's less than its 1cm limit of accuracy (:" CreationDate="2010-11-25T23:29:59.580" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6110" PostId="5154" Text="+1 looks like uncorrected spherical aberration to me - http://toothwalker.org/optics/spherical/crosses.jpg the character of OOF regions varies depending on whether you are in front or behind the plane of focus. This might be why the effect only appears sometimes." CreationDate="2010-11-25T23:47:14.677" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6111" PostId="5029" Score="1" Text="Supposedly Hoya's HD Polarizers are only 1-1/6 stops" CreationDate="2010-11-26T00:42:09.887" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6112" PostId="5177" Text="If someone could change this to community wiki, that'd be great. I don't have enough reputation..." CreationDate="2010-11-26T00:49:48.230" UserId="1655" />
  <row Id="6113" PostId="5178" Score="3" Text="Why the slide frame?" CreationDate="2010-11-26T01:07:07.297" UserId="1655" />
  <row Id="6114" PostId="5177" Text="I've flagged it for moderator attention so they can switch it for you." CreationDate="2010-11-26T02:57:45.320" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6115" PostId="5172" Text="+1 for how to use the zoom setting creatively." CreationDate="2010-11-26T03:36:55.530" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6116" PostId="5162" Text="I haven't been able to find the community wiki checkbox either lately." CreationDate="2010-11-26T03:38:07.243" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6117" PostId="5159" Text="What do you mean by &quot;as latest&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-11-26T03:41:57.973" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6118" PostId="5177" Text="Switched it to wiki for you." CreationDate="2010-11-26T04:10:46.873" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="6119" PostId="5146" Text="Great advice! Unfortunately I was already doing this and still got hassled by security (which I didn't argue with, since the individual security guards have no power to change policy)." CreationDate="2010-11-26T04:25:43.640" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6120" PostId="2227" Text="@chillis42 - do you have an examples portraits with such a lens?" CreationDate="2010-11-26T05:21:20.773" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6121" PostId="2222" Text="This answer is very good so +1. But I also wanted to add a link to a question I asked a little bit back. My question had a slightly different feel, since it was focused on a particular type of portraiture, but I think that you might find it useful. In particular, Mark Grum gave an absolutely phenomenal answer. Here is the link: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4710/how-to-create-this-effect-dave-hill-et-al-for-portraits-action-shots" CreationDate="2010-11-26T05:36:00.700" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6122" PostId="5177" Text="I really like this question." CreationDate="2010-11-26T05:57:30.213" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6123" PostId="5178" Text="@Damovisa at a guess, I'd say it's for image composition" CreationDate="2010-11-26T07:55:04.007" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6124" PostId="5146" Text="+1 for smile :)" CreationDate="2010-11-26T09:29:37.487" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6125" PostId="5178" Score="1" Text="Just like Rowland said! Hold a slide frame near to your eyes and you have a wide angle lens, hold it far away and you have a telephoto. It's a really neat trick that fits in your wallet. " CreationDate="2010-11-26T10:59:21.297" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6127" PostId="5159" Text="It should say &quot;as a test&quot;" CreationDate="2010-11-26T11:02:01.933" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6128" PostId="5146" Text="Reid: It happens to us all, sooner or later we end up being hassled but when you're taking photos of a private site you should being aware of that place's policy (even if it's not publicly posted) whether you're planning to break it or not. In the end you should abide to the rules." CreationDate="2010-11-26T11:06:27.627" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6129" PostId="5181" Score="2" Text="Some good points but I think on balance the fear of making mistakes deters people from trying new things and is detrimental to learning, or at least to people building on their skills and branching out." CreationDate="2010-11-26T13:11:22.917" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6130" PostId="1139" Text="Gaaah! I still hate the austrian young ones (from around 1990) for what they did to the Lomo. (Owned one for 400 german east Mark from my 11th birthday on)." CreationDate="2010-11-26T13:25:00.440" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6131" PostId="5188" Text="There are [homebrew options](http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4882/21) for adding zoom support when tethered, but nothing from the manufacturers" CreationDate="2010-11-26T15:02:44.003" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6132" PostId="5180" Text="This is more and more inconvenient the farther from the prime meridian you are, because if you're off by more than a few hours, the date on the photograph will often be off by a day. For this reason, I do the same thing but using EST (never EDT) as my base." CreationDate="2010-11-26T15:21:37.410" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6134" PostId="5171" Text="(+1) Nice!  Aren't you worried about scratches developing in the plexiglass, though?" CreationDate="2010-11-26T17:57:10.557" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6135" PostId="2153" Score="2" Text="I don't think that having a fixed focal length is a defining property of a macro lens. They almost always happen to be, but one could in theory have a true macro zoom lens." CreationDate="2010-11-26T18:59:00.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6136" PostId="5148" Text="Well, I like to avoid extensive processing whenever I can, which is one of the reasons I avoid RAW. But you're definitely right about underexposure+compensation, that is definitely the thing that brings up the ugliness." CreationDate="2010-11-26T20:37:53.597" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6137" PostId="5190" Text="Hehe... I went through the same thing as Thom, although I ended up with a smaller budget then him (under $600): http://blog.neocamera.com/?p=56" CreationDate="2010-11-26T20:50:23.050" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6138" PostId="2153" Text="@mattdm: And are there any 1:1 macro zooms?" CreationDate="2010-11-26T20:51:57.867" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6139" PostId="5140" Score="1" Text="The Gorillapod SLR Zoom, which I have, is good enough for single shots but I find that it is not suitable for HDR brackets (unless your camera can fully automate it) because when you press the buttons it can move quite easily. I have not tried the new 'Focus' one though." CreationDate="2010-11-26T20:54:24.247" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6140" PostId="2153" Text="@che: not that I know of, at least not without cheating. But I think that's a matter of the practicality and expense of doing so, not a *defining* property." CreationDate="2010-11-26T22:01:19.853" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6141" PostId="5171" Text="@whuber It happens here and there, but usually I have it covered and most can be dealt with as needed." CreationDate="2010-11-26T23:30:51.997" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6142" PostId="5193" Score="2" Text="+1 I came in here to say that! The only real way to speed the process up is to have it done for you." CreationDate="2010-11-27T01:33:07.133" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6143" PostId="2222" Text="Portraits look good at 85mm and greater, and if you're using a T2i (or other crop body) that still applies.  The perspective doesn't change." CreationDate="2010-11-27T01:40:21.077" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6144" PostId="2222" Text="@Alex - Looking at my post, I seem to notice that I did, in fact, recommend the 85mm range. The fact remains, however, that APS-C has a narrow angle of view and so to get portraits in the classic range of 35mm film requires a different range of lenses." CreationDate="2010-11-27T02:19:17.110" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6145" PostId="5193" Score="1" Text="+1 I would check DigMyPics too (here is what they have to say about their ScanCafe, to be taken with a grain of salt, http://www.digmypics.com/getTheRealTruth.aspx, and vice-versa: http://www.scancafe.com/pricing/pricecomparison)" CreationDate="2010-11-27T02:59:23.633" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6146" PostId="536" Text="@Simon: Here for example: http://www.site5.com/hosting/web/ . " CreationDate="2010-11-27T07:06:55.073" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="6147" PostId="536" Text="Agh. It's not a VPS. It's shared..." CreationDate="2010-11-27T07:32:00.310" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="6148" PostId="5197" Text="@ilhan this site is dedicated to **photography** and **photographic editing**, and [the faq](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) does say that it does not cover video related questions. In this case, your question isn't clear what criteria you'd want to assess &quot;best&quot; on, as you've not mentioned budget, audience, or what sort of editing you'll be doing (colour corrections? transitions? or simple cutting scenes together?)" CreationDate="2010-11-27T08:05:53.960" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6149" PostId="5154" Text="Yes, I read on it, looks like you are right. I also found some advice: not shooting at max aperture should mitigate it. I'll try it out next time. " CreationDate="2010-11-27T08:55:58.617" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="6150" PostId="2153" Text="@mattdm: I'm not saying it's a defining property, just that if you have a 1:1 macro lens it's not going to be a zoom." CreationDate="2010-11-27T11:26:15.430" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6151" PostId="2153" Text="@che: I'm not trying to be difficult. :) I just think there ought to be a qualifier in your statement in order to be 100% correct." CreationDate="2010-11-27T14:03:02.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6152" PostId="5008" Text="Methinks you are bitching exclusively about your favoured model, the D7000. Where one has to note, that it is: new. D90 came with the 3,5-5,6 16-85mm VR2 after a while (which I bought then), so just wait for the package." CreationDate="2010-11-27T14:05:30.337" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6154" PostId="5196" Score="1" Text="International shipping of small things like DVD is quite cheap, unless you register the mail or ask for a tracking number. I've sent DVDs halfway across the globe (Asia to Canada) for less than $2 per bunch." CreationDate="2010-11-27T14:09:02.660" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6155" PostId="2153" Text="@mattdm: I understand your point, but since none of 1:1 macro lenses are zooms, the only qualifier I can come up is &quot;always&quot;. In the end I think the best way to include this point is your comment :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-27T15:22:06.547" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6156" PostId="5119" Text="Guys, there might be a misunderstanding here. You need the software. All calibration tools come with a software. Not only is it used to perform the calibration process itself, but it may also be required to install the color profile at run time and let you access a few other options. In the case of the HueyPro, a small app runs in the background that will adjust for room light changes (if you want to), will let you pick a new color temperature and gamma, and remind you to recalibrate every now and then. " CreationDate="2010-11-27T15:46:55.503" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6157" PostId="5119" Text="(cont). I don't see just non-pro version in the product page: http://www.pantone.com/pages/products/product.aspx?pid=562&#xA;The system requirements are Windows or Mac. On Linux, you would have to first dual book to Win/Mac to perform the calibration, locate the ICC profile created in the process, find a way for Linux to use it, and hope that's the only thing you needed to do, since you can't run the other application. It's a pretty classic situation unless you have a very fancy monitor that has hardware LUT where the calibration is written to directly." CreationDate="2010-11-27T15:48:57.967" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6158" PostId="5205" Score="1" Text="Are you hoping to catch them mid flight?" CreationDate="2010-11-27T15:56:30.453" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6159" PostId="5192" Score="1" Text="Have you got the negatives still? You'll generally get a better result from scanning those, rather than the prints." CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:00:08.423" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6160" PostId="5205" Score="2" Text="Having an example of unsuccessful attempts might hint us what you were aiming for and perhaps give better advice. And by the way, welcome!" CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:02:02.817" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6161" PostId="5205" Text="I'm curious to see the suggestions, I've never tried this myself, but given falling leaves will be more unpredictable than birds in flight, I expect it would be quite a challenge." CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:04:05.100" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6162" PostId="5203" Text="I'm with Itai on this one, I'd be going after the 5D, it's still an excellent camera and that price makes it an even better one." CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:07:35.533" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6163" PostId="5019" Score="1" Text="Plugins to a specific software or any?" CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:46:45.547" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6164" PostId="5192" Text="@Rowland: No, I don't, unfortunately." CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:46:53.167" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="6165" PostId="4937" Text="Where are you jumping from and why do you think you'll need an DSLR? I know a few friends where buying an DSLR was a bad option" CreationDate="2010-11-27T16:49:33.237" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6166" PostId="5193" Text="Another vote, services that convert analog formats (photos, videos) are betting more and more common. Probably you'll may even find a local shop near you that will do the job " CreationDate="2010-11-27T17:04:02.917" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6167" PostId="1586" Text="Old lenses also have an aperture ring which is a feature only found in expensive lenses nowadays." CreationDate="2010-11-27T21:05:35.130" UserId="2269" />
  <row Id="6168" PostId="2222" Text="@John - Yes, but you then said you should use a 50mm on a crop body. Ah, but you also said use 70-85mm on an APS-C. I think your first paragraph is the issue." CreationDate="2010-11-27T21:22:49.867" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6169" PostId="5218" Score="1" Text="@che Any reason to stay away from a used DSLR like the Olympus E-520 for $400?" CreationDate="2010-11-27T21:46:35.457" UserId="2371" />
  <row Id="6170" PostId="5218" Text="@WilliamKF: If you choose to go with an DSLR getting a used one might actually be a better option since she can probably live without 12 MPix resolution, and it's going to be less painful for your wallet if it gets dropped. Regarding DSLR brands, I'd prefer Canon or Nikon since they have the widest range of accessories available (including used and 3rd party) -- that might be useful in the future." CreationDate="2010-11-27T21:54:48.823" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6171" PostId="5220" Text="@chuqui We have Photoshop CS5, so I expect that is more than enough software wise." CreationDate="2010-11-27T22:00:00.597" UserId="2371" />
  <row Id="6172" PostId="5222" Text="Have you ever shot one? Honestly the 5D produces the best images of **any** DSLR I've ever used, including the 1D and 1Ds series. Digital seems to have spoilt people, new bodies come out so frequently people are convinced they need the latest one..." CreationDate="2010-11-27T22:45:14.757" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6173" PostId="5203" Text="Hmmm so there is no technological issues that I should be worried about like what mattdm said? Would the significantly older processor be a problem?" CreationDate="2010-11-28T00:28:55.563" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="6174" PostId="5204" Text="Can you please clarify on how the 40D and the 5D would be steps sideways or backwards please? Thanks. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-28T00:29:47.560" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="6175" PostId="2222" Text="@Alex - Actually, I didn't say you should use a 50mm, I said that 50mm was at the wide end for the same field of view for the start of the classic portrait range on FF/35mm. I'm failing to see the issue with that statement, it's a well known fact." CreationDate="2010-11-28T00:43:57.353" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6176" PostId="5019" Text="@t3mujin - I was thinking this could be for any software and any platform. Just to get a list of what the community uses and why they use it" CreationDate="2010-11-28T00:47:02.167" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="6177" PostId="5203" Text="@jon2512chua - Sorry, I can't quantify any 'technological issues' there, it is rather abstract. Within one line, newer is often (not always though) better but at this point you are comparing the evolution of small-sensor cameras with that of full-frame ones. One day we could reach the point where the newest small-sensor cameras is better than a full-frame camera of several years before, but that is not the case here." CreationDate="2010-11-28T02:44:37.217" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6178" PostId="5219" Score="1" Text="In addition, the size of a DSLR, even entry level, can be quite heavy for a 6th grade girl I would imagine.  If its too heavy to use constantly, she may tire of the hobby itself quickly.  Additionally, the increased &quot;attention&quot; from the unsavory types with DSLRs is even less welcome for that age group.  Definitely agree with a versatile P&amp;S." CreationDate="2010-11-28T03:16:44.893" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6179" PostId="5213" Text="Is it capable of scanning the 2&quot; squares that I mention in my question? Will it be broken by the adhesives I mentioned in my question?" CreationDate="2010-11-28T03:18:59.793" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="6180" PostId="5219" Text="See my comments below-- I could not disagree with this comment more." CreationDate="2010-11-28T04:42:37.087" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6181" PostId="5219" Text="@mmr - I agree with the points you make in your answer (she would definitely get better pictures and ultimately learn more from a DSLR)... but I'm imho, we're still talking about a 12 year old kid (not a high schooler) that's all my comment was trying to reflect." CreationDate="2010-11-28T04:53:09.870" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6182" PostId="5213" Score="1" Text="It can handle a minimum size of 1.9&quot; Width and 2.1&quot; Height so it should work for you. I have worked with the DR series of page feed scanners, using them for document and label scanning. In my experience they are robust and high quality. They should easily handle your prints. From time to time you will need to clean the rollers and platens with isopropyl alcohol." CreationDate="2010-11-28T07:03:23.557" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6183" PostId="5203" Text="The Space Shuttle uses a processor from 1991, which is an updated version of a chip from 1975 - now that's a &quot;significantly older processor&quot; yet we all know what it's capable of. The concept of a 5 year old camera processor being any sort of problem is nonsense." CreationDate="2010-11-28T09:26:51.440" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6184" PostId="5204" Text="The &quot;10x more powerful&quot; processor in the 60D is capable of shooting 1.7 times faster with a 1.5x size image. If you shoot Raw then any refinements in algorithms are irrelevant (besides, the 5D's JPEG files look great IMO). Also the questioner mentions he's already planning to upgrade lenses - in any case there is no lens you can buy (especially for $850) that can replicate the look of the 50 f/1.8 or 85 f/1.8 on a FF camera!" CreationDate="2010-11-28T09:36:02.887" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6185" PostId="5204" Text="@Matt Grum: not strictly true. Those improvements apply to autofocus and metering, and also to the silicon used for the sensor itself -- less read noise, for example. As for the &quot;look&quot; of a very, very narrow DoF, it's true, but the style is mostly a fad (perhaps reinforced because it's used to self-justify the expense of a higher-end camera?). There's only so many portraits with the eyes in focus but the ears and nose blurry that one needs." CreationDate="2010-11-28T13:33:13.320" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6186" PostId="5204" Text="@mattdm I didn't mention noise on purpose as it's a complicated issue, I'm not sure what improvements have been made in the field of metering. As for the shallow depth of field look - it's that same as people got for decades with 35mm (full frame!) film, I'd hardly describe it as a fad... it's not just ultra-shallow either, getting any sort of background blur in a wide angle shot is hard with APS-c due to the lack of wide primes. My final question to you would be have you ever used a full frame camera for any length of time?" CreationDate="2010-11-28T13:58:13.870" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6187" PostId="5220" Text="Advanced compacts like the Canon G12, Panasonic LX5 or the Nikon P7000 are a great choice: all of them are very compact and powerful cameras and even if you end up buying an DSLR later they serve really well as a backup camera" CreationDate="2010-11-28T14:00:30.513" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6188" PostId="5204" Text="@Matt Grum: Feel free to read my answer above again -- I actually recommend 5D. I haven't used a full-frame dSLR for more than a few minutes, but I've got a &quot;full frame&quot; film SLR I use often. The viewfinder alone is a reason to go to a full-frame camera. But there's a reason more than just higher resolution that there's a 5D Mk II -- technology changes!" CreationDate="2010-11-28T14:01:39.500" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6189" PostId="5232" Score="1" Text="Couldn't possibly agree more, the flash bracket makes direct shots look a little better, but nowhere near as good as bounced flash." CreationDate="2010-11-28T14:02:57.253" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6190" PostId="5219" Score="2" Text="@rfusca-- I had to pry my DSLR from the protesting hands of my then-12 year old niece and nephew.  Don't underestimate kids because of their age; not only did they find the size completely usable, they actually produced a few keepers in a style I definitely wouldn't have tried." CreationDate="2010-11-28T14:50:50.290" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6191" PostId="5203" Text="Marked true because of the simple and succinct answer that addresses each of my concerns. However thanks to Matt Grum as well for showing sample images as examples. I'm planning to go the 5D route, partly because I've used it for extended time before and am really impressed by what it can do." CreationDate="2010-11-28T15:35:27.053" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="6192" PostId="5232" Text="I agree, bounced or softened will be better than a bracket that is still close to the lens for a single strobe." CreationDate="2010-11-28T16:30:12.223" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6194" PostId="5232" Score="2" Text="Note I believe brackets will look even better than pictured above (but still nowhere near as good as flash with a bounce card) in most situations because the wall and floor will be further from the subject (taller subject) than this case, resulting in the shadow being cast on the floor, which will make it even less visible.  In addition, subjects are typically more reflective (skin) and will benefit even more from non-axis as the specular and shadow transition will be more apparent and pleasantly displaced." CreationDate="2010-11-28T18:24:27.767" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6195" PostId="1374" Score="1" Text="@Sam, are you referring to the &quot;a fast lens&quot; point?  2.0 vs 2.8 is referring to aperture.  A bigger aperture means more light allowed in, which imroves low light performance.  The F-Stop number represents the aperture size (lower number means bigger aperture, so F2.0 lets in more light than F2.8)." CreationDate="2010-11-28T18:59:32.027" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="6196" PostId="5226" Score="3" Text="A 50 mm on an APS-C body is kind of too long for a “standard” lens. I would rather go for a 28 or a 35, unless her daughter is into portrait." CreationDate="2010-11-28T19:15:17.263" UserId="1730" />
  <row Id="6197" PostId="5226" Score="5" Text="agreed, but the 50mm f/1.8 is ~$100, so within her budget more easily." CreationDate="2010-11-28T19:59:35.743" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6198" PostId="4318" Score="1" Text="28mm is not very wide on APS-C; for a new photographer, it seems like it would be important to have those focal lengths available for experimentation. Similarly, the flexibility to go out to 200mm rather than 135mm is probably or more value to a newbie than sharpness (the 18-200 is certainly sharp enough)." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:04:09.827" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6199" PostId="4325" Text="Rarely changing lenses is a perfectly valid use of a DSLR - and perhaps for a newbie there is value in not needing to think of that aspect to start. One can certainly grow into changing lenses." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:05:40.590" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6200" PostId="5215" Text="The 50mm-perspective-matching thing is a myth; that focal length came to be standard because it's cheap and easy to make a good lens in that focal length for a 35mm mirror box. It's a perfectly reasonable FL on APS-C (as are 30 and 35mm as well)." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:07:58.327" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6201" PostId="5238" Text="For a newbie, there's a lot of value in the flexibility of a zoom. Absolute optical quality is less important." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:09:33.520" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6202" PostId="5221" Text="But will the Sigma autofocus? On Nikon bodies, f/5.6 is the limit for reliable focusing; not sure about Canon." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:11:06.750" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6203" PostId="4318" Text="IMO, this is spot on: you get both a fast prime plus a very flexible zoom, which seems pretty much ideal for a newbie." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:13:40.557" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6204" PostId="5238" Score="1" Text="Maybe. Not all &quot;newbies&quot; are the same. A prime lens gives you a different kind of flexibility -- it's not just about optical quality." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:14:46.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6205" PostId="5192" Text="Can you give us a sense of what your budget is?" CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:19:21.223" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6207" PostId="5242" Text="When Was this? How much does it cost?" CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:44:52.817" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="6208" PostId="5243" Text="You could use sticky tack or masking tape. Both of these will come off easy with little or no residue and should be sturdy enough to hold it." CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:46:39.233" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6209" PostId="5247" Text="I'm interested in all kind of photographing macro, landscape etc." CreationDate="2010-11-28T21:21:30.170" UserId="2047" />
  <row Id="6210" PostId="5248" Text="I'll update the question." CreationDate="2010-11-28T21:22:09.327" UserId="2047" />
  <row Id="6211" PostId="5192" Text="@Reid: &quot;Poor&quot; college student. As cheap as humanly possible :P" CreationDate="2010-11-28T21:39:42.280" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="6212" PostId="5245" Text="Just for clarification: by &quot;objective&quot; do you mean what we're usually referring to here as &quot;lens&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-11-28T22:43:19.303" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6213" PostId="5216" Text="Agreed. Not knowing what your friend wants to shoot means you'll want a wide range of focal lengths. And if its still under budget, add the 50 f/1.8." CreationDate="2010-11-28T22:44:55.713" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6214" PostId="5242" Text="Hmmm; about a year ago. I haven't heard that they'd stopped, but it's possible they have. It wasn't expensive at all." CreationDate="2010-11-28T22:51:55.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6215" PostId="5245" Text="Yes! I'll update." CreationDate="2010-11-28T23:23:42.793" UserId="2047" />
  <row Id="6216" PostId="5226" Score="1" Text="I too agree. I've never agreed with the use of a compact (in the sense of a small sensor camera) for someone who is serious about wanting to learn. For someone like that, the limitations of compacts are just too great." CreationDate="2010-11-28T23:33:56.647" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6217" PostId="5245" Score="6" Text="This feels rather subjective, and at best needs to be a wiki thread. If you are actually looking for something very specific, I would remove the &quot;Answer one lens at a time&quot;. If you are just looking for some general information, I'll need to convert this to community wiki." CreationDate="2010-11-29T00:45:39.620" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6218" PostId="5215" Text="Reid: True. Either way I still feel the narrower perspective of the 50mm on a crop camera makes it less interesting than on a full frame. At least for me: I use my 35mm much more often than my 50mm" CreationDate="2010-11-29T00:53:02.427" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6219" PostId="5249" Text="+1. If one rubber band isn't enough, you could try 2." CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:14:03.230" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6220" PostId="5252" Text="Indeed, the fact that the Text mode does basic string search is the issue I was referring to (e.g. &quot;John&quot; finds both &quot;John&quot; and &quot;John Lastname&quot;)." CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:18:20.937" UserId="2383" />
  <row Id="6221" PostId="5252" Text="Thanks, smart collections do seem to work. The trick is to use the 'contains words' operator, as 'contains' has the same issue as above. It's a bit painful to create a smart collection for each search, but if no better solution comes up, I'll mark this as Answer! :)" CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:20:27.237" UserId="2383" />
  <row Id="6222" PostId="5249" Text="Gaffer's tape is used all the time to hold the lens setting for remote cameras when hanging in arenas. Works nicely." CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:52:44.160" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6223" PostId="5243" Score="1" Text="Some masking tapes will leave a mess behind, either because the adhesive will remain, or the tape will tear. It can be icky. That's the technical term for it. &quot;Icky&quot; :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:54:10.693" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6224" PostId="5255" Text="Haha yeah I definitely know that a prime has better optical quality. Would the fact that I have a 50mm f/1.8 make the outcome any different? Oh and I'm only a hobbyist." CreationDate="2010-11-29T02:55:47.080" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="6225" PostId="5255" Score="2" Text="A good 50mm is always something to keep in your kit regardless of any other option! So, no, it wouldn't change my advice. I'm not a Canon shooter, but Pentax has a similar lens (18-135mm) that I plan to get soon because it's a great option for walking around just about anywhere. I would have loved it for a two week vacation in Italy I had recently where my 28-105mm pretty much never left the camera, and I have a lot of lens options, but that range was pretty much in the sweet spot for all the things I was shooting, near, far, and wide." CreationDate="2010-11-29T03:06:45.873" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6226" PostId="5249" Text="@Greg - Yep, it's a very handy thing to have. The downside is re-use, of course, which is why I suggested he try the rubber band first." CreationDate="2010-11-29T03:08:38.367" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6227" PostId="5257" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-11-29T03:21:04.773" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6228" PostId="5249" Text="I'd never consider reusing the tape. It's so cheap there's no point. Just wrap it around the barrel once or twice, then tear it off later and toss it. Tape is very useful for other things encountered while shooting too, from helping to hold things out of the way to hold clothes in place." CreationDate="2010-11-29T03:54:15.963" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6229" PostId="5252" Text="Aye, it is kind of a pain. I create and delete smart collections all the time to get around this limitation. I really wish Adobe had a better way for users to provide feedback and suggestions for future updates/versions of LR. It is a great tool, but it does have its very annoying quirks and limitations." CreationDate="2010-11-29T04:20:01.463" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6230" PostId="5261" Text="This unfortunately suffers from the issue mentioned in the other answer. e.g. suppose you have a &quot;John&quot; tag and a &quot;John Spencer&quot; tag (referring to unrelated people). If you search for &quot;John&quot; as you describe, you'll also get the &quot;John Spencer&quot; results, which in some cases makes the result set too polluted to be useful." CreationDate="2010-11-29T07:31:20.983" UserId="2383" />
  <row Id="6231" PostId="536" Text="@Carles. Yeah, I've got &quot;unlimited&quot; disk space with my current shared host, but I've always assumed it's a bit like all those unlimited talk time tariffs that mobile operators offer - It's only unlimited within their unpublished &quot;reasonable usage&quot; restrictions, which effectively puts a limit on it. Either that, or they invoke some rule that it's only for web content, so if you try and use it as general storage they'll start to block you. Might be interesting to try and push the limits sometime though." CreationDate="2010-11-29T08:27:40.093" UserId="97" />
  <row Id="6232" PostId="5140" Text="Good point. I was assuming that one would use a remote release and a camera that will auto-bracket.  " CreationDate="2010-11-29T09:56:18.313" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6233" PostId="5255" Text="&quot;A good 50mm is always something to keep in your kit regardless of any other option!&quot; I second that!!" CreationDate="2010-11-29T11:29:26.320" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6234" PostId="5257" Score="1" Text="Forgot to mention in the question that I already use the smallest aperture available." CreationDate="2010-11-29T11:37:47.560" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="6235" PostId="5226" Text="Yes and no. Yes for point that it is more portrait lens on APS-C - No because it gives great quality for price. I used to shoot with 50mm on APS-C for whole year - it is sometimes bit uncomfortable BUT it forces you to think." CreationDate="2010-11-29T11:40:36.273" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="6236" PostId="5228" Text="Thanks I was looking for this. Now it's much easier to search for it since you told me the name." CreationDate="2010-11-29T11:40:40.083" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="6237" PostId="5269" Text="By the way, 110 was miniscule, rectangular, and quite poor quality. Your prints sound like they're contact prints from much larger negatives." CreationDate="2010-11-29T13:27:41.300" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="6238" PostId="5220" Text="@chuqui &quot;spending money on an entry level DLSR is probably overkill&quot;. I disagree. G12 is 480€, and it is still compact camera with all its limitations. Pentax K-x with a kit, a very good DSLR to learn the photography, is 460€. You can always &quot;upgrade&quot; a DSLR with a new lens, and you can achieve more with such a camera. Using &quot;higher end&quot; point and shoots means paying the same price, and getting less. Suggesting Lightroom ($300) for someone with the total budget of $500 is nonsense too. RawTherapee (free) is more than enough to learn to process photos." CreationDate="2010-11-29T14:01:09.273" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6239" PostId="5257" Text="If you are at f22 or smaller, then, for the most control, you'll need a bellows and rail so you have lens swing/movements allowing you to increase your focal range." CreationDate="2010-11-29T14:22:15.760" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6241" PostId="5244" Text="That works OK if your subject is a still-life and there is no chance of anything changing, including the light. There is a lot of Photoshop blending that has to be done carefully. Masking the wrong area, or missing an area can lead to flaws in the image that give away the editing." CreationDate="2010-11-29T15:25:40.807" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6242" PostId="5271" Text="@mmr : Thats pretty slick." CreationDate="2010-11-29T16:03:59.840" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6243" PostId="2635" Score="2" Text="Methinks it is horribly oversaturated in comparison to the JPG. The JPG lost detail mostly because of the noise-removal, which you left out which leaves you with ... more noise." CreationDate="2010-11-29T16:04:19.697" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6244" PostId="2628" Score="1" Text="+1 but only after I finally found &quot;the times when you botched it big ... that RAW's advantages ... start to shine&quot;. One thing that always bothers me is the argument, that one can &quot;recover shadows/highlights&quot; - this is only possible if they were removed by the In-Camera-JPG-processing, which mostly happens in situations with extreme lightings. If you &quot;botched&quot; the photo (e.g.: used a flash to fill in sinlight out but neglected to adjust aperture) RAW won't save you: the corresponding regions are whitened/blackened out on the sensor." CreationDate="2010-11-29T16:12:05.697" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6246" PostId="32" Score="1" Text="I shoot JPG+RAW (on my Canon A610 even, if it is not time-critical), but 99% of the time work with the JPG. Sometimes, seldom, but often enough, the RAW can save the day (with harsh lights)." CreationDate="2010-11-29T16:15:34.803" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6247" PostId="5219" Text="With a compact bridge-camera she won't learn to appreciate the technique of taking photos, namely everything that has to do with the aperture: depth of field, diffraction effects (sharpening).&#xA;&#xA;If you recommend that she learns the basics then stay to your advice: grant her a really good view-finder (SLR) and adjustable aperture with a noticable effect (SLR).&#xA;&#xA;FYI: started with my fathers EXA I at the age of 10. Yes, that one has a full steel body and I had a nice 33mm and a 50mm Zeiss. That is what the bag is for." CreationDate="2010-11-29T16:24:54.357" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6248" PostId="5226" Text="Add 5.) A SLR is the only camera, where you really can compose a picture because of it viewfinder. No, stretching out the arms and looking on a small screen is not comparable and neither is a partially grainy electronic visor." CreationDate="2010-11-29T16:31:12.013" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6249" PostId="2628" Text="Oh... I want a RAW camera now..." CreationDate="2010-11-29T19:27:01.987" UserId="1741" />
  <row Id="6250" PostId="5273" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1256/how-do-you-photograph-rain" CreationDate="2010-11-29T20:09:23.467" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6251" PostId="5231" Text="Great explanation.  3D objects are revealed through their shadows.  " CreationDate="2010-11-29T20:52:33.897" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6252" PostId="5274" Score="5" Text="Nice shot! I like the ambience of it." CreationDate="2010-11-29T21:21:38.367" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6253" PostId="5274" Score="2" Text="Thanks! By &quot;on-axis&quot; flash do you mean the camera's pop up flash will do? (Panasonic Lumix G1)" CreationDate="2010-11-29T21:30:13.927" UserId="2336" />
  <row Id="6254" PostId="5274" Score="5" Text="yes, but now that I think about it, the flash being higher up (and possibly tilted up) may have resulted in less blown out snowflakes due to the angle of reflection.  Experiment!" CreationDate="2010-11-29T22:49:16.793" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6255" PostId="2747" Text="I didn't downvote this, but I'd hate a flash that cannot be turned to the side. It takes away half of the fun." CreationDate="2010-11-29T22:54:44.023" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6256" PostId="2628" Text="@Leonidas: Thanks for the comments. There are always times when you botch it so bad that you can't recover anything, however those are the most extreme situations. I do dispute the point about not being able to recover &quot;whitened&quot; areas of a photo. If you look at my samples and Matt Grums samples, there are areas that appear completely blown out to maximum white, however given the headroom that RAW offers, those &quot;botched&quot; white areas ARE recoverable. In my sample, there are a couple patches that couldn't be fully fixed, however RAW allowed me to recover the photo to an acceptable point. " CreationDate="2010-11-30T02:28:31.517" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6257" PostId="5274" Text="Great answer, great shot! +1" CreationDate="2010-11-30T02:30:39.753" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6258" PostId="5282" Text="I have a Spyder 3 Pro.  I've heard rumors that the only difference is in the software.  I don't know specifics." CreationDate="2010-11-30T03:34:24.487" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6259" PostId="2778" Text="For the most part you are right, however there is a bit of a hack. Some Macro shooters, want to use the MP-E as a main lens, but get annoyed with the need to switch lenses for everything(especially because sometimes you need to get a quick shot). Because of this desire, they came up with a couple work-arounds to take larger distance shots. The trick is to use a converter on the end, to add another lens on the front of the MP-E. Here is a lot of links explaining how: http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/927952" CreationDate="2010-11-30T05:44:06.090" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6260" PostId="2776" Text="In response to your question about hand-holding, there are some tricks. While the below answers are correct, that often because of the minuscule Depth of Field, focus stacking is necessary with the lens and thus most probably a focusing rail+tripod is appropriate, there are some hand-holding techniques. A common one is what is called the &quot;left-hand brace&quot;. This is pretty intuitive, but it helps to read this: http://nocroppingzone.blogspot.com/2008/07/left-hand-brace.html" CreationDate="2010-11-30T05:49:54.090" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6261" PostId="5252" Score="1" Text="Actually, I found that this can in fact be done using &quot;Text&quot; search mode.  The trick is to select both &quot;Keywords&quot; for the first drop down AND &quot;Contains Words&quot; for the second.  Unlike &quot;Contains All&quot;, it does what we expect." CreationDate="2010-11-30T06:51:14.240" UserId="2383" />
  <row Id="6262" PostId="5252" Text="@David: Thanks!! Now I can stop using temporary smart collections for narrow keyword searches. :)" CreationDate="2010-11-30T06:53:31.477" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6263" PostId="5286" Text="+1! Excellent answer!" CreationDate="2010-11-30T08:23:22.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6264" PostId="5286" Text="Thanks, jrista.  :)" CreationDate="2010-11-30T09:17:35.477" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6265" PostId="4614" Text="@jrista: After reading your really detailed answer above, may I request u to look at a question I posted here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5301/how-to-estimate-colour-temperature-of-the-illuminant-from-the-captured-image-data   about estimating/finding out colour temperature of a illuminant from the raw/RGB captured data and let know your inputs on that. I want to find the colour temperature  programatically rather than using some Tool like Adobe Lightroom or CS." CreationDate="2010-11-30T11:57:56.783" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="6266" PostId="4851" Text="@Zoe - I pretty much did everything in your list and the results were great. Not only did the kids have fun, but so did the parents and we got some great shots as a result. Thanks for the tips!" CreationDate="2010-11-30T12:42:14.810" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6268" PostId="5303" Text="Another great videoblog: http://www.dombower.com/articles.html" CreationDate="2010-11-30T13:29:09.380" />
  <row Id="6269" PostId="5219" Text="I got started with photography with my mom's SLR at around that age. And every kid is different, but I *loved* the &quot;I look like a pro&quot; vibe that went with it. Now with digital cameras and automatic modes, the barrier to SLR use is even lower. " CreationDate="2010-11-30T14:03:34.013" UserId="204" />
  <row Id="6270" PostId="4851" Text="@John - thats fab news - well done :-)" CreationDate="2010-11-30T15:12:21.623" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="6272" PostId="5193" Text="Can anyone recommend a specific service (that's available in the UK)?  (http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2965/any-experience-of-scanning-services)" CreationDate="2010-11-30T15:25:43.990" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6273" PostId="5284" Score="1" Text="hq23.com doesn't seem to exist.   Did you mean 23hq.com?" CreationDate="2010-11-30T16:21:24.227" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6274" PostId="5128" Text="@rumtscho, keep in mind that DOF calculations use the real focal length, not the 35mm &quot;equivalent&quot;." CreationDate="2010-11-30T16:38:03.940" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6275" PostId="5305" Score="1" Text="Marked as the answer because this is slightly easier for me to understand and that it addresses my concerns more precisely." CreationDate="2010-11-30T16:47:19.753" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="6276" PostId="2003" Text="@ex-ms:Regarding your statements above- &quot;if the card is bluish, ... Should they be &quot;If the card is bluish, then the source light colour temperature less than the setting. And if the card is reddish, its lit with a higher colour temperature than the setting. " CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:38:03.610" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="6277" PostId="2965" Text="Couldn't that question be merged with this one: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5192/whats-the-best-way-to-scan-in-hundreds-of-pictures" CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:39:35.250" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6278" PostId="5296" Score="1" Text="People tend to underrate looking at lots of photos, that's a great exercise for finding out what we like and why we like it, a great way to know what photos we want to shoot" CreationDate="2010-11-30T18:01:09.063" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6279" PostId="2967" Text="You should be aware, AJ, that the bounty will automatically be rewarded to the selected answer when it ends. Since ahockley's answer is currently selected as the correct answer, it will get the bounty. If there are other answers, and you find one more appropriate, make sure you change the selected answer to reward the bounty to the appropriate person." CreationDate="2010-11-30T18:13:01.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6280" PostId="5285" Text="VR won't help you with short-exposure-pics such as sports-pictures itself. But as you can switch it off, it won't do no real harm (variation of bokeh due to inner-lens-movements) either. Exception to the rule: if you use long focal lengths, VR WILL compensate your own movements, allowing you to take pictures with longer exposure-time then normal for the focal-length ... might come handy with slow wildlife in lowlight." CreationDate="2010-11-30T18:29:34.270" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6281" PostId="5284" Text="Pardon me, yes, I do mean 23hq.com -- I'll edit the post to fix that.  Thanks, HiredMind!" CreationDate="2010-11-30T19:49:49.617" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6282" PostId="5317" Text="Whhha? Not sure. I. Wha?" CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:07:50.843" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6283" PostId="5317" Score="2" Text="It may be helpful to include information on how you're preparing them for the web (software used, settings, etc) and maybe even an example to illustrate what you mean." CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:12:48.127" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6284" PostId="5301" Text="I would like to offer an answer, however I am curious about one thing before I do. Are you trying to create an automatic white balance algorithm, or are you trying to do something else? White balance would not necessarily need to (or even be able to) know the color temperature of an arbitrary light source, but it is possible to automatically white balance an image." CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:37:09.800" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6285" PostId="4833" Text="@Matt: one problem: histograms are calculated based on the JPEG preview, not the RAW data, so... you're *closer* to the real thing, but not actually at it.  Still, likely more informative than just the light meter.  Especially if you choose a &quot;picture style&quot; (in Canon's modern parlance, adjust accordingly for other manufacturers or earlier models) that's optimized for giving you &quot;raw-like&quot; (i.e. low-contrast, neutral, etc) characteristics." CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:58:06.943" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6286" PostId="4833" Text="Also, regarding your original answer: I actually use spot mode *specifically because* it changes when I change composition.  That way, I can meter on specific things.  Either I find something that looks middle grey, or I find something that I know is +1 EV from that, or what have you.  And I shoot manual, and put the meter reading where I want it for that object." CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:58:26.787" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6287" PostId="5317" Text="&quot;new users aren't allowed to post images&quot;. I try to find another way to post you an example thanks for your comments." CreationDate="2010-11-30T21:36:11.097" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="6288" PostId="5320" Text="+1 Welcome to the forums, Lindes. Your answers are excellent, and very informative. Hope to see you around in the future!" CreationDate="2010-11-30T21:36:50.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6289" PostId="5301" Text="jrista: I know one can do the auto white balancing w/o knowing the color temperature of the illuminant, by just obtaining the scaling coefficients used to scale the RGB values and perform AWB.  I am trying to do something else." CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:08:37.893" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="6290" PostId="5301" Score="1" Text="@gloldenmean: Can you explain in more detail what you are trying to do? I think I have a general idea, and it is probably possible, although it would probably require some fancy algorithmic work to achieve. " CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:17:40.023" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6291" PostId="5317" Score="1" Text="This is a valid question.  Why the downvotes?  A few upvotes, kindly given in a generous spirit, would also provide the small amount of rep needed for the OP to post the example @Rowland Shaw requested." CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:19:56.703" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6292" PostId="5317" Text="I voted it up, I don't see why it was down voted either." CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:23:12.437" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6293" PostId="5305" Score="1" Text="+1 This is a good analysis because it looks at area, not just individual dimensions, and assesses relative area, which is the appropriate comparison." CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:26:39.460" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6294" PostId="5296" Score="1" Text="also, once you understand the basic concepts well enough, looking at photos allows one to reverse-engineer how another photographer might have done something, potentially teaching you something (or inspiring you to try something new) along the way.  And if you can't figure it out, well, it's something to aspire to.  :)" CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:53:58.593" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6295" PostId="5320" Text="Thanks, jrista.  I've been answering photo questions in various fora for a while; it's nice to have a place like photo.SE to centralize these things in a place with (or building towards) good readership, lots of questions, reputation scores, etc.  I expect I'll be around for a while.  :)  (Though it may not be every day, I'll keep coming back.)" CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:58:02.707" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6296" PostId="5317" Text="The original question was extremely vauge, and combined with the grammar (language barrier issue?), it sounded like a terrible question. It has been updated once, so the downvotes do not reflect the current content of the question." CreationDate="2010-11-30T23:00:10.937" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6297" PostId="5323" Score="1" Text="Also the thumbnail image. It's too small to be useful and nothing seems to really require it." CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:15:06.480" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6298" PostId="5311" Score="2" Text="The title of this post is really unclear, and has unnecessary shouting. Something like &quot;Tool to visualize metadata from many photos?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:31:27.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6299" PostId="5320" Text="I think &quot;center weighted&quot; or &quot;center biased&quot; is more than just spot-metering on the cheap. Actually, I suspect it's &quot;full-frame average&quot; on the cheap, with the alleged excuse that the sky tends to be at the edge of the frame so counting that for less works better." CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:36:35.243" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6300" PostId="4843" Text="A difference in digital is that there's no smooth rolloff for highlights — once you've clipped them, there's an ugly flat line between useful data and blown-out. So the &quot;expose for the highlights&quot; half of the phrase becomes more important." CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:38:00.703" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6301" PostId="3307" Score="5" Text="It's the hard disk space that can get expensive.  And disks are cheap, too, arguably... but it does add up.  Note: I'm fully in support of shooting all RAW, all the time.  Just pointing out that there is a cost to that.  :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T02:06:45.140" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6302" PostId="5330" Text="Cool, thank you for both of those pointers.  And yes... when I dream, I dream big.  ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T02:08:43.657" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6303" PostId="5329" Score="2" Text="Maybe you can implement some of those features as plugins? I have no idea but look at Bibble (www.bibblelabs.com) and check what the APIs can do. It is certainly blazingly fast, much faster than Lightroom at least (never tried Aperture)." CreationDate="2010-12-01T02:37:11.843" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6304" PostId="5330" Score="1" Text="+1 as Raw Therapee is a very good piece of software." CreationDate="2010-12-01T02:40:40.410" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6305" PostId="5309" Score="3" Text="Manual is something you progress to. Don't use Auto, but learn by using Tv and Av modes." CreationDate="2010-12-01T02:44:19.337" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6306" PostId="5317" Text="I notice that the linked to image is a **PNG** file, not a JPEG at all. However, it does show JPEG artifacts, so perhaps it is a screen capture of a JPEG? A bit confusing! Capsize, could you link to a file which actually shows what you're trying to do? Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-01T03:26:59.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6307" PostId="2965" Text="@sebastien: Given that there is a bounty on this question, I am hesitant to merge it right now. I have never merged a question with a bounty before, and I am unsure what effect it would have. I'll see if I can get some insight from one of the SE mods about mergers and bounty." CreationDate="2010-12-01T03:35:15.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6308" PostId="5331" Text="A holiday gift for a child, perhaps? :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:04:55.753" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="6309" PostId="5331" Text="Haha, actually far less innocent than that - http://www.warriordash.com :)  Great alternative suggestion though!" CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:08:26.963" UserId="1655" />
  <row Id="6310" PostId="5329" Score="1" Text="I have a script that does the name mangling, at least; if you're interested I'll post it in an answer." CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:17:47.147" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6311" PostId="5329" Score="1" Text="One other note: the &quot;some stuff out there&quot; link is seriously out of date, if I read the change history correctly (2007); things have progressed a lot since then." CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:21:17.827" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6312" PostId="5329" Text="Thanks, Reid. I've got a script that does the name mangling (and more), too, so I'm all set on that (though I wouldn't object to seeing how others do it). As for the out-of date list, I'd be happy to see other resources, be they lists like that, or individual tools... Like Bibble; thanks, Itai, I'll check that out. " CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:33:35.897" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6313" PostId="331" Score="2" Text="I'm reminded of the 10,000 hour rule... See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outliers_(book)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:44:49.090" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6314" PostId="336" Text="The critical review part is actually quite key, for getting good... Not sure if it counts as a beginner tip or not, but I suppose it may as well... There's an interesting take on it all here: http://www.groupf56.com/nwrg.htm -- and surely a recipe for &quot;not quitting&quot; could surely be useful to make a beginner get beyond that. " CreationDate="2010-12-01T04:55:01.050" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6315" PostId="997" Text="Or just take your flash off-camera. It's the &quot;on-axis&quot; flash that looks so horrible to us. We're not used to having our forehead be the source of illumination in a scene. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:00:14.633" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6316" PostId="5334" Score="4" Text="I don't think it's fair to describe Gimp as &quot;not remotely close to photoshop&quot;. I'll grant you that it's behind, but for even most advanced users it's quite capable. Additionally, but beyond that, the features lindes is looking for are not particularly advanced for a photo-editing program -- they're just part of a different class of software, &quot;image management&quot; -- see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_organizer . I think such a thing is completely possible within an open source development model. It's amazing what shows up from volunteers working in their free time." CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:03:18.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6317" PostId="5334" Score="2" Text="Also, &quot;just buy Lightroom&quot; is not a very helpful answer when the original question specifies that it was prompted partly by dissatisfaction with Lightroom's feature set. " CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:04:12.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6318" PostId="5334" Score="2" Text="@mattdm: believe me, I would love to be wrong, but this is my experience with open source, and working on very large apps. I think people are quick to imagine a bunch of happy volunteers devoting free time, but the truth is a lot of high profile open source apps are developed or managed by a set of core people who are paid to do it (and that's great). Big apps don't manage themselves, you need a structure, you need technical leads, etc.&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:16:50.643" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6319" PostId="5334" Score="2" Text="@mattdm: There is no helpful answer to this question, that app doesn't exist, we would have heard about it. Many of us are familiar with LR or Aperture, the feature set he is describing is already *beyond* the leading applications in the domain. I love this list, but you are going to need a really serious team to implement it, and even catch up. Not happening. While I can see a company like Canonical funding efforts to develop essential tools like a web browser for Ubuntu, I don't see the incentive to fund a big app like LR when Gimp does the trick for the amateur photographer." CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:24:34.410" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6320" PostId="5334" Text="Absolutely. But this isn't *really* such a huge thing -- it's no OpenOffice or even Firefox." CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:28:05.840" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6321" PostId="5334" Text="@mattdm: last but not least your mention his dissatisfaction with LR, but I've some doubt he even used it. I'll update my answer above, but the vast majority of his requirements are in LR3 already." CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:35:40.950" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6322" PostId="5334" Text="sebastien.b: you may be right about needing a paid team... I certainly see how a core team with funding to spend time on this would be useful. I will say, though, that as far as I know, GIMP (or even Photoshop) does very little of what I'm talking about. Those are both great tools for working with individual images. Photo management is a different problem space. (There just happens to be some overlap.) p.s. I haven't upgraded to LR3, but I've used earlier versions plenty, and have Aperture 3 and use it quite a bit. " CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:37:45.273" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6323" PostId="5334" Text="Finally, I'd be happy to pay for a commercial app with this feature set, too. I just have trouple imagine that ever existing. The ideology (and likely user base) is just to open-source centric (it seems to me)." CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:43:22.167" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6324" PostId="5334" Score="1" Text="@lindes: see my update. I'm a bit confused because a lot of what you described is in LR3. It's in the GUI, not something you type as an expression to evaluate, but the functionality is there, you rename files at import by combining patterns and keywords that are replaced by metadata, for example, etc etc. I'd love for the plugin API to be a bit more open, but the LR database is a good old SQLite db, you can poke in it." CreationDate="2010-12-01T05:50:34.080" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6325" PostId="5334" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: I'll have to look at the number or SLOC the source, but the Firefox codebase is not that big. Hard to tell exactly, Ohloh reports 63,738 (http://www.ohloh.net/p/firefox), which is clearly underestimated, but I work on apps that combine two of our open source toolkits (VTK: http://www.ohloh.net/p/vtk, ITK: http://www.ohloh.net/p/itk) and that's a 3,000,000 codebase just for that part of the iceberg. Slicer3 combines even more toolkits, it is probably at 5M easy. There are a fair amount of open-source projects that are *huge* but highly specialized and for the research crowd. Funded." CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:01:25.767" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6326" PostId="5334" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: Firefox codebase... Ohloh reports 63K lines (http://www.ohloh.net/p/firefox), which is clearly the tip of the iceberg. Mozilla Corebase is at 13M (http://www.ohloh.net/p/mozilla), so now we are talking. " CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:13:21.307" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6327" PostId="5329" Score="1" Text="While people are perfectly willing to pay thousands of dollars for craftsman to build a tripod or camera, it is becoming commonplace for software to be expected to be free (perhaps 'expected' isn't the right word here but I couldn't think of another at this late hour). I don't want to get into an argument about Open Source - but I think your best bet with this would be to go to the Aperture or Lightroom people and make these suggestions to them.  And if you do decide to start a company around your ideas, I hope you get obscenely rich for the value you've created for the field of photography." CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:15:43.583" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6328" PostId="5334" Text="I'm not sure what Ohloh is looking at. In 2008, Firefox was around 3M-4M SLOC, depending if you count HTML as code. I couldn't find a more recent count quickly. But anyway, it's bigger than you think. The proposed program wouldn't be anything that complicated (depending on how much of the actual image editing it left to other tools)." CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:17:21.760" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6329" PostId="5334" Score="1" Text="I'm also familiar with the highly specialized research crowd. There's some super-smart people and correspondingly amazing code, but, to put it delicately, a lot of researchers are not good software engineers and are very short on the design and structure needed for a great software project. In many cases, having a huge codebase is a sign of the problem, not of success. I can't speak to the particular stuff you work on -- I haven't looked at it other than to install the viz Rocks roll. I'm sure it's awesome :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:23:12.350" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6330" PostId="5334" Text="@mattdm: I agree with you that the codebase would likely be smaller than Firefox (which includes Mozilla Codebase) but this is only one side of the problem because you need people with a different expertise. Here, image processing, signal processing, conv/deconv, very large memory requs, etc. You need them in the long run. How long can you keep people with that kind of education if they are not funded, and how fast can new people take over? It's hard to find and hire smart people in our own open source 3D/scientific viz/image processing business, so expecting their time for free..." CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:30:10.537" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6331" PostId="5334" Score="1" Text="Well, that's the beauty of open source, yeah? This app can really focus on asset management and metadata side of things. No need to reinvent RawTherapee or Rawstudio." CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:45:57.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6332" PostId="5333" Text="Good suggestion - I have a Optio W60 and I'm pretty pleased with it." CreationDate="2010-12-01T08:36:07.693" UserId="2336" />
  <row Id="6333" PostId="5334" Text="Yeah, I was actually thinking it might either use Apple's Core Image libraries, or one of the OSS options -- for RAW conversion, manipulation, etc.  A big part of the thing for me is, as mattdm says, &quot;asset management and metadata&quot;.  Meanwhile, sebastien.b: thank you for your update...  looks like I owe LR3 another look.  Last I checked, though, I couldn't (for example) get the &quot;123&quot; out of &quot;123CANON&quot; into my filename (I want a unique base filename for each image I take, and so I need that number), and... well, for &quot;keyboard interaction&quot;, I guess a lot of what I mean is a command language." CreationDate="2010-12-01T08:44:37.970" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6334" PostId="5337" Text="sorry, can't post links directly. no rep :(" CreationDate="2010-12-01T08:50:14.420" UserId="2394" />
  <row Id="6335" PostId="5318" Text="@Yes: I plan to fix the card to a vice clamped to a table, camera device also fixed to a clamp and change the light sources." CreationDate="2010-12-01T09:25:42.423" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="6336" PostId="5337" Text="@pulkitsinha I've edited the links in for you :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T09:31:09.523" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6337" PostId="5337" Text="Thanks, a lot :)      " CreationDate="2010-12-01T09:40:05.140" UserId="2394" />
  <row Id="6338" PostId="5333" Text="+1: designed to take abuse :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T09:53:37.107" UserId="1937" />
  <row Id="6339" PostId="5332" Text="@jrista: Thanks. Few more questions if you allow. 1] How to generate the 3 luminance peaks - Is it by computing average of R, G, and B data obtained after demosaicing? 2] What do you mean by &quot;average of samples will produce an fairly accurate color temperature reading&quot;? What is the computation steps in here ? " CreationDate="2010-12-01T13:37:42.907" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="6340" PostId="2965" Score="1" Text="I think that the questions are different - Billy ONeal is asking more generally how to approach the task of digitising negs/slides/prints, while I am asking specifically about scanning services.  I realise they are related, but I don't think they are the same.  " CreationDate="2010-12-01T13:45:02.770" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6341" PostId="2967" Text="Thanks, jrista - I hadn't realised that.  " CreationDate="2010-12-01T13:45:51.930" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6342" PostId="2184" Score="2" Text="I'm pretty sure Picasa edits are also non-destructive." CreationDate="2010-12-01T14:20:41.623" UserId="677" />
  <row Id="6343" PostId="5339" Text="Ooh, neat. I hadn't even heard of that one. And yet `yum install darktable` and I'm running it in seconds. Cool." CreationDate="2010-12-01T14:47:37.127" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6344" PostId="5339" Text="Please give some feedback, as I'm aslo quite interested in the domain of free photo management platform." CreationDate="2010-12-01T15:04:04.953" UserId="1697" />
  <row Id="6345" PostId="5339" Text="Well I'll be damned :) Up vote. So that's a great starting point. It seems very very new. Now what are the performances? @mattdm, please let us know. " CreationDate="2010-12-01T15:05:58.963" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6346" PostId="5334" Score="2" Text="@lindes: well I can eat my words, that new open souce software darktable looks like a great start. My real worries are performance (as I said, 21MP), so if you are willing to relax that requirement, this might just fit the bill. With respect to file renaming, you were right, it doesn't seem you can extract part of your filename in LR3. I've updated my answer with links to my renaming scheme in another question on photo.se though, link to how I use Smart Collections, and a link to PADDY for Lightroom: free Key mapping, external keyboards, midi controllers, macros." CreationDate="2010-12-01T15:19:31.020" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6347" PostId="5339" Text="Looks very much inspired by LR. Besides performance, I realized how important raw support is. Would I switch from Adobe Camera RAW? Consider going through that kind of hoops: http://blog.pcode.nl/2010/06/28/darktable-camera-color-profiling/ , but it looks sweet nonetheless." CreationDate="2010-12-01T15:40:43.380" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6348" PostId="1281" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2021/on-line-photo-challenges/" CreationDate="2010-12-01T16:08:14.893" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6349" PostId="5331" Text="Oh, I heard about that. It looks like fun!" CreationDate="2010-12-01T16:58:40.627" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="6351" PostId="5339" Text="I had not seen this, no... Thank you! It looks like it's certainly a great start towards what I want... And being open source, I can potentially get it closer with comparative ease (and, sebastien.b, performance can be improved over time)... Also, it's not just Linux. The site says it's in macports, too. I'll definitely be checking this out soon, and quite possibly checking the accept button on this answer, from the looks of it. So thank you, Riduidel!" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:41:46.540" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6352" PostId="5349" Score="1" Text="On what operating system? ImageMagick or GIMP come to mind, but I'm not sure they they fit the &quot;easy&quot; bill, since they do so much more than that... (*ponder*)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:46:26.740" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6353" PostId="5309" Text="I second what Nick said, and would add that professionals make very heavy use of semi-automatic modes like Shutter or Aperture Priority modes. There are also many professionals who use a Program mode and use exposure/flash compensation as their only real control. It really depends on the kind of work you do, and there is no &quot;one setting fits all&quot; when it comes to photography." CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:47:20.623" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6354" PostId="5290" Score="1" Text="&quot;With good technique, you should be able to get shots with the f/4 IS lens that you could get with an f/1.4-f/1.8 Non-IS lens, which is pretty amazing.&quot;  I just wanted to clarify that no amount of VR/IS will remove motion blur caused by moving objects in low light.  The only solution for this (ISO being constant) is to get a lens w/a larger max aperture (f1.8 f1.4 etc).  IS/VR only helps _you_ be more steady :)" CreationDate="2010-12-01T19:32:20.960" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6355" PostId="5339" Text="Peformance-wise, I looked at Darktable recently (maybe...2 weeks ago?) and the performance of Windows 7 + LR quite substantially better compared to Ubuntu + Darktable - *for me*.  I'm a heavy Linux user, but I've got Win 7 just for LR." CreationDate="2010-12-01T19:56:35.817" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6356" PostId="4916" Text="Back in the day I took several afternoons and shot slide film with mechanical cameras using the Sunny 16 rule. It does work as long as the lighting isn't too weird. A little bit of an anachronism  with digital cameras of course :-) To those wondering what we are talking about -- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_f/16_rule" CreationDate="2010-12-01T20:00:11.607" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="6358" PostId="5352" Text="Thanks. It was printed by a printing service (http://photobox.com).  So not a domestic inkjet.  I will try to find out more detail on how they do it.  " CreationDate="2010-12-01T20:29:46.670" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6359" PostId="5348" Text="@Loren, welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-12-01T20:31:32.710" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6360" PostId="5352" Text="According to their technical details page (http://www.photobox.co.uk/content/quality/technical), they use a color laser system. Laser printers usually bond the ink to the paper substrate better than ink jets do, however there is still no guarantee that the ink won't bond better to an adhesive. Also, assuming you could find a solvent that would only remove the adhesive, you are unlikely to find something that won't damage the paper substrate." CreationDate="2010-12-01T20:56:57.987" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6361" PostId="5349" Text="If it is a text, Irfanview (batch mode, advanced options)." CreationDate="2010-12-01T21:08:48.007" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6364" PostId="3036" Text="Any chance of some examples of some expressions, specifically &quot;football shoulders&quot;, &quot;mermaid pose&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-12-02T00:07:38.273" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6366" PostId="2965" Text="I agree, AJ. I don't see any reason to do any merging. " CreationDate="2010-12-02T01:46:46.727" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6367" PostId="5362" Text="Control+Click doesn't do anything; do you mean Alt+Click? That seems to work; but only if the Layer A isn't also going through the layer below it, which in my case it is. " CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:12:19.107" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="6368" PostId="5362" Text="Yes, sorry, that was Alt :) See my example, both A and B are applying an effect. That's not what you wanted?" CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:17:30.277" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6369" PostId="2612" Text="Good point about the Through-The-Lens autofocus system getting more light." CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:17:44.907" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="6370" PostId="5362" Text="BTW, would you happen to be Sebastien Bacher, the Ubuntu developer?" CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:18:02.347" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="6371" PostId="5362" Text="Well, yes it is. Except I also have the alt+click trick applied between the first adjustment layer and the real layer. So now the second adjustment layer applies to the entire real layer. I can work around that, though; I'll just work the way you answered until I'm done, then copy the layer mask over. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:20:10.380" UserId="150" />
  <row Id="6372" PostId="5362" Text="No I'm not Bacher :) I'm not sure I understand the structure of your photoshop file. You mentioned one photo and 2 adjustments layers, and that's what I tried to reproduce in the screenshots. Anyway, if you can make Alt+Click work for you, that's great." CreationDate="2010-12-02T02:43:40.150" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6373" PostId="5272" Text="Thanks for your detailed, and experience-based answer!  I am shooting mostly Figure Skating, and ended up getting a Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 with HSM (AFS equivalent).  I did not get an image-stabilized lens, not in my budget, and the Sigma at the $1000 range had HSM where-as the Nikon did not.  I am pleased with the results so far.  I find myself learning to shoot as you have described, tracking the body with a bit wider frame and shooting fewer bursts once I learned how to anticipate better." CreationDate="2010-12-02T03:02:08.177" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="6374" PostId="682" Score="1" Text="A 70-200mm zoom with a 1.4x teleconverter can do pretty well when you need some extra reach. The lens and teleconverter have to be very good quality though, because you're adding extra glass and a potential for sloppier mechanical fit between the body, converter and lens." CreationDate="2010-12-02T03:18:45.710" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6375" PostId="712" Text="Those lenses work OK if you have lots of light to keep the shutter speed up and hand-shake down, but the max aperture of f5.6 can really hurt when indoors. 400mm is susceptible to our various body vibrations which will translate into soft images. You'll need about 1/800+ shutter speed to help control it. " CreationDate="2010-12-02T03:22:42.930" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="6376" PostId="5355" Score="2" Text="What might also be helpful is if you can post an example image that shows what the problem is.  Even if it's only a picture of one of the film prints :)" CreationDate="2010-12-02T04:11:25.237" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6377" PostId="5363" Text="intervalometer is great for timelapse photos, especially since there is no physical shutter to wear." CreationDate="2010-12-02T04:12:57.083" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6378" PostId="5254" Text="The 28-135mm though is a rather average lens in the grand scheme of things. The aperture is both variable and not very large (f/3.5 maximum). I think you'd personally be better off getting the 85mm f1/8 USM." CreationDate="2010-12-02T05:09:22.433" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6379" PostId="5290" Text="Well, blur caused by object motion can't be stopped by anything except flash or an extremely high shutter speed. But IS/VR is generally about achieving the lowest possible shutter speed, not high shutter speed. IS combined with flash should get you some motion-stopping even with a slow shutter, up to a point." CreationDate="2010-12-02T06:33:59.083" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6380" PostId="5373" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/325/21" CreationDate="2010-12-02T12:07:33.213" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6381" PostId="4060" Text="@toomanyairmiles, A programmer has tethering working for the K-x and K-r, and the K20D/K-7/K-5 may be on the horizon.  http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1036&amp;thread=37074921" CreationDate="2010-12-02T14:15:54.260" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6383" PostId="5379" Text="Good question! Welcome to photo.SE, Mike." CreationDate="2010-12-02T16:01:18.453" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6385" PostId="3220" Text="Edited the title to reflect that this question is about licensing, not copyright" CreationDate="2010-12-02T16:47:16.480" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6386" PostId="627" Text="Hundreds of thousands is a monster number. I have had my DSLR for a year and a half, and I've taken just over 10,000 photos...and that is a LOT of photos. Most PROFESSIONAL camera bodies that cost THOUSANDS of dollars have shutters that are rated for 200,000-300,000 actuations. A cheap point and shoot is unlikely to have a shutter rated for more than 50,000 shots at most, and the one you have shown probably tops out at around 20,000 or less." CreationDate="2010-12-02T18:19:45.233" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6387" PostId="5353" Text="Thanks for this.  Certainly this is something that could be used as a component in something... the real thing I'm looking for, though, is something to manage many files, and provide user-interface for doing so effectively and efficiently.  So, Exiftool would only solve a very small piece of that.  Still, appreciated." CreationDate="2010-12-02T19:15:29.070" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6388" PostId="5274" Score="1" Text="No need for the light to be on axis - you can flash from any angle, here's one with the flash behind the subject: http://www.mattgrum.com/photo_se/jk_sample___M5M0385.jpg" CreationDate="2010-12-02T19:28:30.313" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6390" PostId="4651" Text="+1 for Strobist.  I've used the LP160 optically-triggered from a Canon 30D w/ no problems." CreationDate="2010-12-02T22:09:00.800" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="6391" PostId="5376" Text="ME TOO! Mine was my mothers though." CreationDate="2010-12-03T00:10:21.413" UserId="2187" />
  <row Id="6392" PostId="5223" Text="This is actually the same on almost all cameras -- it's not Canon-specific at all. Removing that tag." CreationDate="2010-12-03T00:21:36.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6393" PostId="5391" Text="Does Peterson actually say that the meter lies to you? I think that's a non-helpful way to explain. The meter isn't smart enough to do anything of the sort, and I think it's counter-helpful to use explanations that pretend it is. It's not lying, or even wrong -- it's just doing the one thing it knows how to do. (With the exception of matrix metering, which can't lie either, but can be wrong if it mismatches the scene.)" CreationDate="2010-12-03T00:23:55.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6394" PostId="3127" Text="Could you post the image, or part of it along with the colours you're trying to apply and what actually happens to the image? (is it the whole image that changes colour or just the colour you're applying that's wrong?)" CreationDate="2010-12-03T00:48:43.580" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6395" PostId="627" Text="@jrista - Unless the shutter is electronic :) I don't know about this one but I've had cameras from the same era without a mechanical shutter." CreationDate="2010-12-03T01:05:34.037" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6397" PostId="1246" Text="@Balls: Just got the Zeikos grip for the T2i. It's actually more sturdy than the Canon grip (which I tried on a friend's T2i), but the button action isn't as nice as the Canon grip. All in all I'm very happy with the purchase, thanks for the advice." CreationDate="2010-12-03T01:15:41.400" UserId="679" />
  <row Id="6398" PostId="5355" Text="Borrow a digital camera, put it in manual, keep shooting/changing until you get the exposure you want, use those settings on your film camera :)  And/or upload a shot from the digicam showing the issue.  You can use the digicam to chimp." CreationDate="2010-12-03T01:31:31.763" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6399" PostId="5355" Text="It sounds like you just have the wrong exposure, using a digital camera will help you learn about exposure much faster, then you could go back to film." CreationDate="2010-12-03T01:33:16.490" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6401" PostId="5369" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4687 for more discussion on the differences between metering modes." CreationDate="2010-12-03T03:19:16.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6402" PostId="5119" Score="1" Text="@sebastien.b, on Linux, you still need software, but you don't need *their* software. You need Argyll CMS. See the links in my answer for the details." CreationDate="2010-12-03T03:23:51.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6403" PostId="5396" Text="The color settings indicate the photo is already sRGB. I've updated the original question to include a screenshot of the color settings." CreationDate="2010-12-03T03:37:42.547" UserId="2489" />
  <row Id="6404" PostId="5119" Text="@mattdm: that's very good to know, I'll pass on to my Linux friends." CreationDate="2010-12-03T03:54:40.167" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6405" PostId="5396" Score="2" Text="The color settings simply show your configured defaults. They do not show the currently applied color profile that is attached to the image you are working on. Use the &quot;Convert to Profile&quot; option instead. At the top of that window, it will show your source color space, and allow you to convert to sRGB." CreationDate="2010-12-03T04:16:52.833" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6406" PostId="5329" Text="awesome question." CreationDate="2010-12-03T04:48:20.677" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6407" PostId="5396" Text="That was it, @jrista. Thank you for the assistance." CreationDate="2010-12-03T05:54:50.830" UserId="2489" />
  <row Id="6408" PostId="5282" Text="@ahockley, The software is traditionally the only difference between the versions... it's all the same hardware. When I bought my spyder2express they even had a hard sell upgrade offer to move up. I couldn't justify the added cost when I could hack around the lack of dual screen support by hand pretty easily." CreationDate="2010-12-03T06:00:02.963" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6409" PostId="5400" Text="awesome! what about the setting for the last photo in the last row?" CreationDate="2010-12-03T11:07:05.657" UserId="2362" />
  <row Id="6410" PostId="5400" Text="oh and what did you mean by &quot;fill flast left aimed at the subject&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-12-03T11:11:52.457" UserId="2362" />
  <row Id="6411" PostId="3981" Text="In the end, I actually bought the Jessops 360AFDN, because it was on offer, 3 days before I was due to go away.  It's Fantastic.  No complaints,  TTL just works, bounce flash, sync, etc.. All good." CreationDate="2010-12-03T12:39:15.300" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="6412" PostId="612" Text="My first camera was actually the OM-2 of my parents. Great camera !" CreationDate="2010-12-03T13:39:21.920" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="6413" PostId="5370" Text="Why the anonymous downvote?" CreationDate="2010-12-03T13:43:42.183" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6414" PostId="5350" Text="I actually want to place a image in as a watermark....." CreationDate="2010-12-03T13:45:42.637" UserId="2470" />
  <row Id="6415" PostId="5349" Text="Windows 7...........yeah i need to do them in bulk and I dont think GIMP allow that..." CreationDate="2010-12-03T13:46:34.417" UserId="2470" />
  <row Id="6416" PostId="5368" Text="Thank you for also explaining where to go!" CreationDate="2010-12-03T13:57:18.303" UserId="2470" />
  <row Id="6417" PostId="5405" Score="1" Text="In case it is not obvious, the output is either NTSC or PAL, which is about VGA resolution. No high-def here." CreationDate="2010-12-03T14:50:20.750" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6418" PostId="5398" Text="This comment was probably voted down, by the way, because although the site title says &quot;photographic editing&quot;, it means to focus that specifically on the aspects of photo editing particularly relevant to photo post-processing, not general &quot;how do I use graphics software&quot; — there's several other SE sites that may be better suited for that." CreationDate="2010-12-03T14:56:51.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6421" PostId="5214" Text="I agree. Yes, it's a kit lens and has its fair share of flaws but, in terms of value for money, it's hard to beat." CreationDate="2010-12-03T16:50:22.290" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="6422" PostId="5406" Text="WOW!!! Thank you Mattdm! Very helpful." CreationDate="2010-12-03T20:53:00.720" UserId="1667" />
  <row Id="6423" PostId="5398" Text="If you read my question, you might have noticed that my question is not a general &quot;how do I use a graphics software&quot; question, but rather a quite specific one. It is in fact directly related to photo editing - why else would I need to know how to create layers and merge them?" CreationDate="2010-12-03T20:56:33.043" UserId="1667" />
  <row Id="6424" PostId="5400" Text="He probably means that a flash was held to the left of the camera and pointed at the subject. Detachable flashes can still fire if there is a cable or radio/ir remote connecting it to the camera." CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:08:06.327" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="6425" PostId="3034" Text="Using the center focus point allows for focusing in lower light. Thanks for the tip!" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:10:02.873" UserId="120" />
  <row Id="6427" PostId="2441" Score="1" Text="Indeed, the masks are cool.  I just tried making one and using it, and it worked great in my test environment -- it might or might not work well for the original asker, though... but if a bright star can be found, I could totally imagine it helping." CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:22:49.643" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6428" PostId="5073" Text="In addition to the question Rowland mentions, I'll perhaps direct you specifically to this answer there: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1783/how-to-focus-in-complete-darkness/2441#2441 -- the Hartmann mask or Scheiener disk suggestion is particularly interesting, if there are any bright-ish lights anywhere to be found that are at appropriate focus distances -- stars, moon, city lights, anything." CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:26:45.567" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6429" PostId="5398" Score="2" Text="Creating and manipulating layers can be seen as a fundamental feature of most graphics software. We can take this up on http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:33:56.877" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6430" PostId="724" Text="Are you currently at school or university? Education discounts can make photography software much more affordable. I'd recommend Aperture for your needs which I got for £60 instead of £120. Frankly, your processing software is going to get more use than a lens. You'll be using it for every photo." CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:36:51.197" UserId="2269" />
  <row Id="6431" PostId="1827" Text="also, since one &quot;stop&quot; is a doubling of the amount of light, and doubling the distance between light and subject cuts the light by 1/4 (2 squared), doubling the distance between light and subject is &quot;2 stops&quot;.  Nota bene, though: the rule doesn't necessarily apply with focused light.  It applies completely to a point light source (because it's isotropic --  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isotropy)... with other sources, it's different (the extreme counter-example being a laser)... at least in abstract theory.  In practical theory, it still applies, but the &quot;distance&quot; is non-obvious." CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:47:03.887" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6432" PostId="5398" Text="Sure. In the past I was editing pictures using software that didn't use layers. This time I bumped into a need of editing a photo by using layers. I was suggested the &quot;GIMP&quot; here. That's how I came up with this question. The fact that the subject of my question turned out to be &quot;a fundamental feature of most graphics software&quot; only proves that my primary concern is editing - not collecting some knowledge about software, otherwise my question would have been way more sophisticated. However, I don't quite see how you could separate these two one from another." CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:53:43.390" UserId="1667" />
  <row Id="6434" PostId="892" Text="Can you comment on the differences between them and their relative advantages and disadvantages? How do they compare to the state of the art in proprietary software?" CreationDate="2010-12-04T00:36:22.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6435" PostId="5396" Text="@Jonathan: Welcome. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-04T01:00:49.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6436" PostId="627" Text="@Itai: Thats a good point, however I am still rather skeptical about the &quot;hundreds of thousands&quot; of photos...that is a LOT of photos." CreationDate="2010-12-04T01:02:11.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6437" PostId="5398" Text="*I* think it's fine, but the site works by community consensus. I was just trying to point out a guess as to why the question got a negative vote. Again, http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/ is the place for this discussion. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-04T02:13:24.793" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6438" PostId="892" Text="Addendum: that search result isn't particularly helpful, as it contains several discontinued projects, and links to pages that say something like &quot;I have GIMP 2.6.6 (GIMP.app) running on Mac OS 10.4.11. I need a noise reduction plugin that will work for this version of GIMP&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-04T05:19:43.080" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6440" PostId="1711" Text="I'd second that suggestion. I use Elements and I've yet to get into a situation where I wished I had Photoshop or Aperture. Great piece of software, and good value." CreationDate="2010-12-04T12:09:02.860" UserId="2336" />
  <row Id="6441" PostId="5419" Score="2" Text="What sort of budget were you thinking?" CreationDate="2010-12-04T12:32:36.700" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6442" PostId="5420" Text="Please read my edit." CreationDate="2010-12-04T12:56:43.260" UserId="2509" />
  <row Id="6443" PostId="5420" Text="That used to be the case but Adobe is integrating more and more GPU enhancements into Photoshop so the graphics card may start mattering a lot in future - http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/405/kb405745.html" CreationDate="2010-12-04T14:37:34.367" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6444" PostId="5425" Text="+1 for this, both for mentioning GPU computing and noting that other factors may be more important. But I don't believe current Intel offerings provide any GPGPU capabilities. Their graphics offerings have always been far less powerful, so it's unclear if there would be a big benefit from doing at this point anyway." CreationDate="2010-12-04T15:17:38.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6445" PostId="5425" Text="@mattdm - I tend to agree, though Adobe does mention Intel cards in their basic info on the feature. It wasn't clear, though, if this one had it or not. I tend to trust to nVidia over Intel for graphics anyways, so that would be the path I'd take unless the tech specs on the other were so clearly better otherwise (and I doubt it)." CreationDate="2010-12-04T15:40:14.350" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6446" PostId="5414" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5273/how-should-i-photograph-falling-snow" CreationDate="2010-12-04T16:47:30.893" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6447" PostId="5419" Text="As Rowland said, we need a bit of info about your budget.  This is one scenario where you're likely to get best results with some really expensive gear, but if that's not an option then that's not an option." CreationDate="2010-12-04T16:48:44.183" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6448" PostId="5391" Text="lol, okay.  So pedantically speaking the meter isn't &quot;lying&quot; to you.  But say you (like the OP) are a beginner photographer taking a photo of snow or bright sand.  The meter will tell you the shot will be nicely exposed when it will actually be horribly underexposed.  WTH!  That lying camera!!  You told me it would be perfectly exposed!!  In the book Peterson explains why this is and what the camera/meter is actually measuring." CreationDate="2010-12-04T17:29:47.203" UserId="1873" />
  <row Id="6449" PostId="5420" Text="Thank you very much!" CreationDate="2010-12-04T17:54:02.457" UserId="2509" />
  <row Id="6450" PostId="5421" Text="Thank you for your answer! :)" CreationDate="2010-12-04T17:54:19.073" UserId="2509" />
  <row Id="6451" PostId="5425" Text="Thank you for you mention. The laptops are same, but they have different processors, the one with Intel Graphics card has an Intel® CoreTM i3 350M processor and the other has an Intel Pentium T4500 processor. I think the first one is much better. So do you think I have to use the one with Intel graphics card?" CreationDate="2010-12-04T17:56:56.807" UserId="2509" />
  <row Id="6452" PostId="5425" Text="@Tojass - Yeah, the i3 350M specs definitely appear to be a cut above the T4500, but looking at some benchmarks (Tom's Hardware) on the desktop versions of those CPU, I'm not sure that it is a difference that will have a huge advantage in Photoshop. You might also want to read this: http://blogs.pcmag.com/miller/2010/04/how_adobe_cs5_takes_advantage.php as it may make the nVidia option more compelling." CreationDate="2010-12-04T18:23:23.873" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6454" PostId="5419" Text="Sorry, there was an error on the rendering of my post, I edited it." CreationDate="2010-12-04T23:26:13.543" UserId="2508" />
  <row Id="6455" PostId="5419" Text="If you just need some photos for a web site, what about hiring a photographer?" CreationDate="2010-12-04T23:49:08.080" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="6456" PostId="5436" Score="1" Text="Seems less of a photo question and more of a software question." CreationDate="2010-12-05T00:27:17.243" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6457" PostId="5414" Text="@ahockley Thanks for the link, it is definitely relevant." CreationDate="2010-12-05T00:49:47.747" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6458" PostId="5414" Text="I worry slightly about the tag snow, it seems a bit localized. :/" CreationDate="2010-12-05T00:50:03.690" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6459" PostId="5426" Text="Thanks for another good answer, I have noticed the blue=cold a few times." CreationDate="2010-12-05T00:53:05.060" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6460" PostId="5431" Text="Thanks for the links on this." CreationDate="2010-12-05T00:53:49.833" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6461" PostId="5435" Score="1" Text="If you change where you take the photos from when shooting a panorama (by sliding along as you suggest) then the photos may not line up properly when you assemble the panorama. Even if the roof lines up, the background wont and you'll be left with a weird looking photo. It's far better to stay still and rotate the camera." CreationDate="2010-12-05T00:57:46.993" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6462" PostId="5436" Text="It may be something other photographers have done even if it's not strictly related to the act of taking photos. Even you don't get an answer here, you could try posting to http://doctype.com/ which is an affiliated site for web design questions!" CreationDate="2010-12-05T01:05:46.820" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6463" PostId="5438" Score="3" Text="This guy has lots of tips :D  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQSNhk5ICTI" CreationDate="2010-12-05T06:21:18.517" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6464" PostId="5441" Text="check this: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter" CreationDate="2010-12-05T07:58:16.197" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="6465" PostId="5339" Text="Hmm, I tried building this for MacOS (it doesn't show up in MacPorts, after all), and it looks like it'll take at least a little bit of work (dunno how little/much yet)... I hope to have time to spend on it soon. " CreationDate="2010-12-05T08:32:43.673" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6466" PostId="5435" Text="+1 for suggesting stitching, however the key is to keep the entry point of light into the lens in the same place for each shot - this is especially important when you have the subject close to you." CreationDate="2010-12-05T08:36:04.760" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="6467" PostId="5270" Text="you sound like you're critiquing the G12 without actually using or studying it. I've talked with many professional photographers who'd disagree with you; the lens isn't mediocre, the sensor isn't crippled... George Lepp uses that line of cameras for many of his gigapixel panos, for instance. Many pros are turning out publishable images on it. The compact cameras can be cost effective and have the advantage of, well, compactness, meaning it's easier to carry them around conveniently. Not a bad idea if you're just starting out." CreationDate="2010-12-05T08:56:31.860" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="6468" PostId="5403" Text="This is huge issue, but seems it's their incentive to get you to go pro.  For now I am ensuring I am using share links which at least link back to flickr where full exif can be seen.  Which is a bit og a half fix really." CreationDate="2010-12-05T09:43:54.693" UserId="2498" />
  <row Id="6469" PostId="5419" Text="@Jukka Suomela: Well it could be an idea, but why not start to learn something? I get that a professional photographer would take better pics but why not start to learn something? Considering also that the plants are geographically distant hiring a photographer would cost much more than having the pics taken right after the plant is installed if you want to take pics of several plants." CreationDate="2010-12-05T11:32:50.023" UserId="2508" />
  <row Id="6470" PostId="5447" Score="3" Text="Hang on, if rainbow light is *strongly polarised*, then wouldn't it be better to keep the CP filter on and align it with the rainbow's light (i.e. rotate til the rainbow shows up stronger)? The filter wouldn't block any rainbow light, but would block 50% of other light?" CreationDate="2010-12-05T13:09:45.287" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6471" PostId="5445" Score="1" Text="Just a note on insurance: I was told that by my insurance agent that this is unlikely to be an option unless you are a pro or have over $10,000 of gear to protect." CreationDate="2010-12-05T13:50:39.573" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6472" PostId="5441" Score="1" Text="I'm retagging this with &quot;sensor&quot; rather than CCD, because many or most DSLRs these days use CMOS sensors instead of CCD." CreationDate="2010-12-05T13:52:19.087" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6473" PostId="5415" Score="2" Text="The letter G on Nikkor lenses means fully electronic aperture — no aperture ring. I'm quite sure that Nikon doesn't really mean for the G to stand for &quot;gelded&quot;. I think that's a Ken Rockwell joke." CreationDate="2010-12-05T13:54:52.423" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6474" PostId="5445" Text="+1 for mentioning the &quot;protective&quot; myth that camera stores are feeding everyone. I'm guessing that they're doing this because nobody wants to buy the store warranty any more..." CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:18:40.620" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6475" PostId="5447" Score="3" Text="I should have clarified, it's polarized but in shifting orientation across the 'bow, so you will cut out most of the rainbow light whichever orientation you use. It's the same problem with polarizers on super wide angle lenses, the sky is at a different angle with respect to the polarizer across the frame..." CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:24:27.963" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6476" PostId="5445" Text="@mattdm it probably depends what country you are in, where I live in the UK there are companies that will insure anything from a single camera/lens up to a full assortment of gear. You can also sometimes add it to your house contents insurance which will cover it for use outside the house." CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:26:58.400" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6477" PostId="5445" Text="True. I'm in the US. Here, at least, with the way homeowners'/renters' insurance works, putting high-risk items in with that can be a problem because each claim you make can make your future rates go up." CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:43:02.890" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6478" PostId="5417" Text="It's not just that there's less information, but that the particular information which is lost is crucial to this adjustment. To adjust wb in a JPEG, you need to have some idea of the adjustment already applied to it (or else guess, or have the computer guess)." CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:45:55.417" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6479" PostId="5453" Text="Simple and concise!" CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:58:42.597" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6480" PostId="5411" Text="Never thought to see an answer here using mathematics, but it's just like that!" CreationDate="2010-12-05T15:59:58.073" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6481" PostId="5411" Text="We like math here. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-05T16:07:49.890" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6482" PostId="5105" Text="+1 -- I ran the trial version of Lightroom and it handles hierarchical keywords well. But it fails with my criterion #2 above. See other question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5457/lightroom-how-to-upload-photos-to-flickr-and-prevent-duplicate-uploads" CreationDate="2010-12-05T16:54:34.503" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="6483" PostId="5438" Text="No tips there, more of a spiritual experience for the guy." CreationDate="2010-12-05T17:45:08.530" UserId="1091" />
  <row Id="6484" PostId="5459" Text="Can't believe I missed that - thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-05T19:38:34.033" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6485" PostId="5461" Text="But thats the OS.  I've no doubt putting the OS on a faster drive helps but opening cold (not in cache) photos I'm not so sure about." CreationDate="2010-12-05T19:42:56.413" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6486" PostId="5461" Score="1" Text="well, yeah, the OS was faster... but once LR is open... image to image felt a bit faster too. Not a HUGE amount mind you... and depending on other factors, like the cost of the drives, the power and heat output... probably not worth it." CreationDate="2010-12-05T19:57:19.503" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6487" PostId="5417" Text="Not really, from the algorithm point of view it's only a matter to weight differently the 3 channels RGB. Also from a practical point of view you need only to find a real white (or neutral gray) pixel in the picture to wb." CreationDate="2010-12-05T20:12:20.697" UserId="2507" />
  <row Id="6488" PostId="5463" Text="Hah, yea going from anything to SSD would be a massive difference, when I put my OS on a SSD instead of a pair of RAID1 7200 drives the change was *dramatic*.  If I were spending &gt; 2hrs/day editing photos I'd do it in a heartbeat, as is I don't value it that much." CreationDate="2010-12-05T20:51:50.083" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6489" PostId="5456" Text="Stock is only an online activity in the distribution.  Most successful stock photographers I know are still actively shooting, hiring models and locations, and working all the time to create new salable material." CreationDate="2010-12-05T21:07:28.477" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6490" PostId="5454" Score="1" Text="This is very good that you care about your father. Bravo sou." CreationDate="2010-12-05T22:09:13.340" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="6491" PostId="5469" Text="Ah yea, thumbnail generation should be improved, especially helpful for batch edits.  I guess it does depend on what you're doing as rfusca says, in a straight PS workflow its probably not a big deal but in LR or Aperture it'd help more." CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:17:08.763" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6492" PostId="5446" Text="@MattGrum Stating that image circle is not important flies in the face of my common sense thinking about this.  If light is missing the sensor, how can you not be getting less than the full use of the lens?  How couldn't a 50mm with dx sized image circle and same f-stop not have more light hitting sensor than a regular 35mm sized image circle for same 50mm and f-stop?" CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:53:55.157" UserId="2371" />
  <row Id="6493" PostId="5442" Text="@EvanKrall Stating that image circle is not important flies in the face of my common sense thinking about this.  If light is missing the sensor, how can you not be getting less than the full use of the lens?  How couldn't a 50mm with dx sized image circle and same f-stop not have more light hitting sensor than a regular 35mm sized image circle for same 50mm and f-stop?" CreationDate="2010-12-05T23:55:00.427" UserId="2371" />
  <row Id="6494" PostId="5446" Score="1" Text="@WilliamKF Think about it like this - cropping the middle of a photo doesn't make it any darker, despite the fact that less light makes up the new cropped image. Now imagine you take the image circle of a 35mm lens and then concentrate all that light down to a smaller image circle. The image will get brighter, yes, but now you've changed the focal length and so the f stop has changed! This is easy to verify using two lenses with the same focal length, f stop but different image circles. Take two images with the same shutter speed and they will be the same brightness. " CreationDate="2010-12-06T00:16:51.700" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6495" PostId="5463" Score="1" Text="How are those Intel SSD's? I do a lot of photo work in Lightroom, and I've been seriously considering some SSD raid for my work drive. I've noticed that there are some insanely fast SSD's these days, pushing 800mb/s throughput rates for the more expensive varieties...that would be a true dream." CreationDate="2010-12-06T00:16:53.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6496" PostId="5442" Text="@WilliamKF you get less light total with the DX sensor but the same light per unit area, thus the same exposure. " CreationDate="2010-12-06T00:18:44.147" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6497" PostId="5456" Text="True, but maybe he could work on his own pace and slow down when needed, something not easy to do when shooting events" CreationDate="2010-12-06T01:16:17.857" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6498" PostId="1516" Score="1" Text="Sounds like a Douglas Adams quote, Eru." CreationDate="2010-12-06T03:43:57.043" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6499" PostId="1526" Text="f/1.8 is quite fast, though obviously not the fastest." CreationDate="2010-12-06T03:45:41.190" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6500" PostId="5473" Text="Thanks Nick, I was sleepy that day, hence the question... I just updated the original because somebody decided that there was no such beast as a 50mm f/1.7 and changed it to a 50mm f/1.8. However, Pentax definitely produced an f/1.7..." CreationDate="2010-12-06T03:59:26.990" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6501" PostId="5473" Text="Yeah some &quot;uncommon&quot; lens have definitely been made. I've heard mention of an f/1.7 before." CreationDate="2010-12-06T04:02:52.417" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6502" PostId="5463" Text="SSD are great, no doubt about it, but it's not recommended to go RAID with them (though it has been done just for benchmarks kicks). The X25G2 was the one of the best that was humanly affordable (the X25E were faster I think), but I think there are certainly faster now. I'm patiently waiting to get a 512GB SSD for my laptop (I mean, for less than half a leg)." CreationDate="2010-12-06T04:43:06.017" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6503" PostId="5454" Text=":-) Thanks! We all love our parents, now its our time to help them since we are capable enough of doing this." CreationDate="2010-12-06T05:32:11.527" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="6504" PostId="5456" Text="Stock Photography was the first thing that came into my mind. but its complexity and the need of being actively involved is what I am concerned about. on the other note, I also came up with an idea of offering prints online, since he already has a good network of people who print his photos. I am currently researching the market for both of the options." CreationDate="2010-12-06T05:34:12.947" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="6505" PostId="5456" Text="Anything else, that's not related to photography, but is online and can help someone earn legitimately? " CreationDate="2010-12-06T05:40:01.570" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="6506" PostId="5471" Score="1" Text="Depending on your 'blur it a bit' step, this isn't much different than doing a blur with a kernel that's half the size as the one you use in step 2.  The only real difference is that you'll introduce aliasing artifacts from the resolution changes." CreationDate="2010-12-06T06:17:43.700" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6507" PostId="5425" Text="Thank you for your answer, I have read the site you told me, but I don't know which one to choose... Do you think for photoshop the T4500 is better?" CreationDate="2010-12-06T06:43:53.897" UserId="2509" />
  <row Id="6508" PostId="5270" Text="I don't critique G12. This is just a typical representative of the class. It has its uses (like a second or in-pocket camera), but I don't think it's a good camera for an _aspiring_ photographer. Regarding the lens, Imaging Resource reports that “_Chromatic aberration is moderately high at wide-angle. The color fringing is bright and extends fairly deep into the frame_”. Sample shot from G12: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/G12/ZG12hVFAWB_250LL.jpg So, yes, I agree that compact cameras can be cost effective, but at $500 they are not. And regret buying such a camera once." CreationDate="2010-12-06T11:24:11.563" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6509" PostId="5270" Text="Now, regarding the sensor. Here is a comparison of Canon G12 vs Olympus E-PL1: http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Canon_PowerShot_G12/high_ISO_noise.shtml Olympus, even with a small Micro Four Thirds sensor, is clearly much better. And, unlike G12, it can produce better images if a better lens is used." CreationDate="2010-12-06T11:31:44.133" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6510" PostId="5270" Text="And the verdict of Camera Labs is “The biggest problem for the PowerShot G12 though is the availability of cameras sporting DSLR sized sensors and removeable lens mounts, that are roughly the same size and weight. Almost unbelievably, models like Sony's Alpha NEX-5 are actually smaller and lighter than the G12, at least when fitted with a fixed prime lens”." CreationDate="2010-12-06T11:36:11.370" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6511" PostId="5403" Text="I guess the incentive to go pro should be extra storage space or similar, not something like this" CreationDate="2010-12-06T11:55:05.993" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6512" PostId="5456" Text="Check the prints links I posted above, and try to find some local service similar also (it might be cheaper to ship those prints). It could be a simple way to put the reputation your father has earned to good use. Don't forget to create a neat web site to act as a frontend to your father's work, most of those print services have ways to add a catalog to your site." CreationDate="2010-12-06T11:58:17.757" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6513" PostId="5471" Text="@mmr Yes there is a different on digital mathematical world. This is digital, so when you double it you actually create new digital points. And when you blur them - you can even add some extra small noise inside them..." CreationDate="2010-12-06T13:57:52.177" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="6514" PostId="627" Text="@jrista - I know! I met people who take so much photos, you can almost play them as a video ;) One guy has a shutter-count of over 10,000 after 3 weeks. I told him it took me 4.... years! I delete 7 out of 8 pictures I take, and I have a personal goal to not shoot the 7 lesser ones in the first place... So I'm moving in the other direction, but to each their own." CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:14:55.907" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6515" PostId="887" Text="Just for the record, you mean open source as in free app or app where you need to access the source code? " CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:16:28.947" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6516" PostId="5448" Text="Wow.  I'm glad I inspired such an insightful question!  :)" CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:16:54.703" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6518" PostId="5473" Text="Since most of that is constant when comparing the two, you don't really need to use it. You can just compare the inverse of the f/stops squared. (1/focal-length)^2. Or, another way of thinking about it: you can compare the stops by taking log base sqrt(2) of the aperture to get the stop number.... f/1.4 is stop #1, and f/1.8 is stop #1.7. And f/1.7 is stop #1.5 — nicely halfway between f1/4 and f/2. (In all cases, highly rounded because the real world lenses don't reflect a high degree of precision here anyway.)" CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:35:38.377" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6519" PostId="3527" Text="This answer kind of implies that there's a magic correspondence between lenses and hoods made to support them. As other answers say, it's simply a matter of hood depth vs. the angle of view of the lens." CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:38:32.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6520" PostId="5469" Score="1" Text="Even though it's disk-bound, I'm skeptical that the improvement in going from 5400rpm to 7200rpm drives is going to produce a significant improvement in real-world use. You may notice it if you look carefully, but I'd be very surprised if it makes an impact big enough to really change anything practically." CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:41:43.617" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6521" PostId="5476" Text="Will the metering still work?  (e.g. My d700 let's me program in these older lenses, and then the knows what aperture I'm using.  Does the d90 have this feature too? " CreationDate="2010-12-06T15:54:52.113" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="6522" PostId="5481" Text="You can find some comments regarding PS + Aperture here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3843/lightroom-vs-aperture/3846#3846 – you can use PS as an &quot;external editor&quot; in Aperture,  Aperture can create the PS files for you, and it can also manage and display the PS versions; no need to use TIFF." CreationDate="2010-12-06T16:10:27.493" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="6523" PostId="5475" Text="Yes, I have found wavelet denoise to work very well. Additionally, Ufraw has wavelet denoise built in." CreationDate="2010-12-06T17:58:07.937" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6524" PostId="5479" Text="I have a Pentax K-5 that has a 100% viewfinder, and I can honestly say that I think it's a marketing gimmick. This is especially true if you correct lens distortion in post-processing as you tend to lose the edges." CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:31:32.160" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="6525" PostId="5476" Score="1" Text="It will not meter with old manual lenses. If that's an important feature to you, you'll have to go with a more advanced body like the D200 or D300." CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:33:54.717" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="6526" PostId="5479" Text="Oh no! ;) I have a K-5 too, and a K-7 and had a K20D before that. I can say with 100% certainty that the experience is another world entirely. There is no way I would regularly shoot with a cropped viewfinder again. I frame my shots the extreme accuracy and fill the frame with my subjects, leaving as little unused pixels as the aspect ratio will low. The K20D I often had to guesstimate by how much to zoom-in to get the framing I wanted, NEVER again!" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:40:44.700" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6527" PostId="5449" Text="From your first link &quot;As a **full frame** lens the AF-S 50 enjoys the usual sweet spot advantage...&quot; ergo, both lenses have the same size image circle!" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:44:49.253" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6528" PostId="5449" Text="Ohhhhh. See, I just assumed that from the question. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:54:05.880" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6529" PostId="5449" Text="Edited to keep the middle part of the answer, which still has some sense in it. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-06T19:00:53.553" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6530" PostId="5473" Text="I often wonder whether f/1.2 lenses are actually half a stop faster than f/1.4 lenses or a third of a stop faster. It could be either (or anywhere in between!) depending on how the figures are rounded!" CreationDate="2010-12-06T19:07:38.743" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6531" PostId="5493" Score="3" Text="I was going to add to the answers, but not much point. Bob Atkins has a fairly lengthy article on the subject here: http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/bokeh.html and it's worth a read." CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:51:15.823" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6532" PostId="5495" Text="Thank you for the quick response. I will try out 18mm at f/3.5 tomorrow morning. I was thinking of treating myself to this prime lens, do you know if that will give better bokeh?" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:51:35.417" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6533" PostId="5495" Score="2" Text="Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 II Lens" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:52:02.077" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6534" PostId="5495" Text="Yes, a lens at f/1.8 will give you quite a bit more out-of-focus areas, aka bokeh" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:52:55.837" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6535" PostId="5497" Text="Thank everyone I really appreciate the feedback. Defiantly going to buy the EF 50mm f/1.8 II based on everyone's feedback. " CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:57:25.313" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6536" PostId="5497" Score="1" Text="Ask an easy question, and *bam*, we're all jumping all over each other to answer. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-06T21:58:52.623" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6537" PostId="5495" Score="10" Text="I'm not convinced you'll get any more blur at 18mm f/3.5 than you will at 55mm f/5.6 seeing as the physical aperture remains the same size. I'd like to see some comparison images." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:01:37.143" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6538" PostId="5492" Text="The Gimp equivalent is Resynthesizer (http://www.logarithmic.net/pfh/resynthesizer) which works fine and in fact has been available for way longer than the Photoshop feature. However, it's also pretty stagnant, so the Photoshop version both is more slick and more advanced in effectiveness. It'd be cool if someone picked it up again and polished it up. Still, even as is, it's available in Fedora with `yum install gimp-resynthesizer`, and probably also in Ubuntu via apt-get." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:02:23.747" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6539" PostId="5495" Text="I'll try both ranges tomorrow and post the results." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:03:27.600" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6540" PostId="5490" Text="Thanks for the answer John.  I'll see how visible the fishing line is and report back." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:14:44.457" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6541" PostId="5469" Text="Say you have 1000 pictures in a directory and the worst-case-scenario, that neither OS nor HDD can optimize the search of the files on the disk. then you'll have 8 vs 12 *1000 = 8 vs 12 seconds for just touching the files. 4 seconds might not be much, but these 50% are noticable. Faster rotation speeds up random access - that is why fast platters (or SSDs) are to be preferred for compilation. &#xA;&#xA;I'm not looking into transfer-rate, as it depends on other factors like density, layout, above mentioned optimization." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:36:10.063" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6542" PostId="5495" Score="4" Text="The perspective changes and magnification from the longer focal length coupled with no change in minimum focus distance will almost certainly make it easier to create more out of focus areas on " CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:38:20.607" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6543" PostId="5495" Score="3" Text="Bear in mind that going to a shorter focal length (18mm) increases depth of field (i.e. decreases likelihood of getting bokeh) versus a longer focal length -- I'm not sure this would mix with the (ratio-wise) aperture change, so I agree with Matt Grumm that it'd be nice to see comparisons (ideally with at least 3 images -- one at 55, and two at 18: same focus distance (camera-to-object) for one, same subject-in-frame size for another).  While ahockley certainly has some things correct in this answer, I think Matt's more accurately reflects the main issues at hand." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:41:03.030" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6544" PostId="5492" Text="Thanks for the answer jrista.  I was afraid the answer was &quot;clone it out in post,&quot; and it looks like that's the case. I'm actually fairly decent at photo editing (it's taking the photos that I'm fairly new at), but I can always tell even if others can't.  So I'll try a few different types of line/wires in different colors and let you all know the results.  " CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:51:49.027" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6545" PostId="5492" Text="That's good to know matt.  I'm a long time Gimp user and didn't even know about Resynthesizer (I always clone by hand using the clone brush).   " CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:54:34.953" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6546" PostId="5494" Text="The glass is an interesting variation - thanks.  Seems like fishing line is basically a cylinder, so if I light it from the top it should reflect away to the bottom, and vice versa." CreationDate="2010-12-06T22:55:09.073" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6547" PostId="3473" Text="It could also be the filter if you've got a filter attached (e.g. a UV filter for protecting the front glass element). Less likely with a kit lens, but worth double checking in general." CreationDate="2010-12-07T00:25:38.230" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6548" PostId="5425" Text="@Tojass - At this point, I'd be recommending on the video card, I think, so probably the one with nVidia inside." CreationDate="2010-12-07T02:11:28.023" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6549" PostId="5226" Text="@leonidas: An additional note about electronic viewfinders: they are hell if you wear glasses." CreationDate="2010-12-07T02:47:46.317" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6550" PostId="5497" Text="note: if you take pictures of people *with the aperture wide open*, it'll be difficult.  At narrower apertures, it can get easy.  (But then, you may well get less bokeh.)" CreationDate="2010-12-07T04:48:03.000" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6551" PostId="5497" Score="1" Text="@lindes: Absolutely. It's the wide open aperture which reduces depth of field, which increases blur — which is what bokeh describes." CreationDate="2010-12-07T05:07:14.010" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6552" PostId="5456" Text="You're correct. I am currently into the market study for this business." CreationDate="2010-12-07T05:40:02.917" UserId="2089" />
  <row Id="6553" PostId="5497" Text="@mattdm: Yes, just commenting on the wording in your original answer -- trying to make sure it's clear that it's not that it's hard to get both in focus *with that lens*, but *at that aperture*." CreationDate="2010-12-07T06:12:26.717" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6554" PostId="5500" Score="2" Text="I was thinking Image Magick could pull this off, but then I found this: http://www.wizards-toolkit.org/discourse-server/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;t=13597" CreationDate="2010-12-07T06:35:28.127" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6555" PostId="700" Text="I have been trying to figure out what that little rubber thing is for months!" CreationDate="2010-12-07T06:41:00.023" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6556" PostId="1335" Text="+1 for &quot;smile happily, and mean it.&quot;  I've seen that advice given elsewhere, used it, and found it to generally be quite helpful, for both sides of the exchange." CreationDate="2010-12-07T08:52:30.043" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6557" PostId="3110" Text="Big Ken is bang on the money as usual. For all non-Pro purposes, D5000 rules." CreationDate="2010-12-07T09:47:00.910" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="6558" PostId="5498" Text="Great photo, yes that is the effect I am trying to create. I currently use lightroom to develop my RAW photos, would it also be worth getting photoshop or do you know if such plugins exist for lightroom? " CreationDate="2010-12-07T10:23:44.053" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6559" PostId="2873" Score="1" Text="I asked that original question and went for the D5000, I really like it though I have to say now looking at other lenses as the D90 would have made the lens cheaper as the moter is in the body not the lenses." CreationDate="2010-12-07T10:50:44.363" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="6560" PostId="5504" Text="Some people - like me - just love the small LCD on top of the camera. So I went with the D90 some month before and would go for the D7000. Just for the ergonomics of not looking at the back-screen for dialing some changes." CreationDate="2010-12-07T11:17:52.983" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6561" PostId="5506" Score="1" Text="Does it calculate the amount of rotation from the images directly or do you have to tell it? " CreationDate="2010-12-07T11:33:43.000" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6562" PostId="5497" Text="Okay, adjusted." CreationDate="2010-12-07T12:43:06.190" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6563" PostId="5508" Score="1" Text="well, for sure once a nikon macro 60 fall by a table. The (40 euro) UV filter was completely broken, but the lens had only a dent in the barrel, it was still usable and they completely fixed for another 50 euro. I doubt that the frontal len could have survived the fall at all." CreationDate="2010-12-07T13:37:21.860" UserId="2507" />
  <row Id="6564" PostId="5508" Score="2" Text="&quot;given that filters can exacerbate lens flare and reduce contrast in certain circumstances.&quot; -&gt; if I have to take quality photo I remove also the filter (or use other filters). But for normal photo tourism I don't see any disadvantage." CreationDate="2010-12-07T13:38:49.363" UserId="2507" />
  <row Id="6565" PostId="5506" Text="AFAIK, it gets actual rotation parameter from an image (that does a camera)" CreationDate="2010-12-07T13:43:01.683" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6566" PostId="5508" Text="There are some falls that a filter will protect you from but many that it won't - filter glass is much thinner that the front element and breaks easier. The point is I've spent a lot less on lens repairs over the years than it would have cost to buy high quality UV filters for every single lens. The image quality isn't a major issue unless you're shooting toward a light source, but you will end up spending a lot on the off chance of preventing damage from a specific size impact. " CreationDate="2010-12-07T14:18:45.167" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6567" PostId="5506" Score="3" Text="@Genius: reread the question. Poster isn't just looking for 90° rotation based on the orientation sensor." CreationDate="2010-12-07T14:47:37.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6568" PostId="5500" Score="1" Text="Be aware that rotating your image even a few degrees is a destructive operation comparable to running a blur filter over your image. That may be fine, but it's better to practice getting your images straight in the first place. (And/or use a camera which can automatically rotate its sensor slightly to match a level.)" CreationDate="2010-12-07T14:49:50.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6569" PostId="5508" Score="3" Text="I still prefer to have a broken filter than a chipped front lens element, and since I use wide angle lenses I have a quite big front lens element" CreationDate="2010-12-07T14:57:35.487" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6570" PostId="5496" Text=" Can't go wrong with a nifty fifty for a nice bokeh :)" CreationDate="2010-12-07T14:59:52.553" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6571" PostId="5495" Score="1" Text="You'll get a narrow depth of field at 55mm (with f/5.6) than at 18mm (with f/3.5).  http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html" CreationDate="2010-12-07T15:08:01.113" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6572" PostId="5495" Text="@MattGrum - what do you mean when you say that the physical aperture is the same size at f/3.5 and f/5.6? Aren't those two different aperture sizes?" CreationDate="2010-12-07T15:10:58.693" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6573" PostId="5503" Text="This sounds interesting; where is the bubble-level tool?" CreationDate="2010-12-07T15:15:54.683" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="6574" PostId="5495" Score="1" Text="What I mean is the solid round hole in the lens through which light passes doesn't grow or shrink when you zoom, hence you're not gaining anything by zooming out and using f/3.5 The relationship between the apparent aperture and focal length (the f-stop) does change. In fact the apparent size of the aperture increases when you zoom in, meaning using the 18mm end is the worst thing you could do for bokeh! " CreationDate="2010-12-07T15:51:34.027" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6575" PostId="5508" Score="1" Text="The old &quot;XYZ broke, so this proves that it protected ABC&quot; argument. As false for filters as for cycle helmets. different stability and elasticity just can't be this simply compared, but believing is always stronger (and simpler) then calculating. Btw: I do follow the &quot;protection&quot;-argumenht in case of flying sand (during a race) or other abrasive flying things ... but please spare us your anecdotal &quot;filters protect lenses during a fall&quot; evidence." CreationDate="2010-12-07T17:37:38.430" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="6576" PostId="5493" Text="Welcome to the forums, David! Hope you enjoy your time here. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-07T18:31:07.867" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6577" PostId="5503" Text="it's in the crop and straighten tools: http://img.skitch.com/20101207-jc4i98q76mary2jg24skpdpyuu.jpg" CreationDate="2010-12-07T20:43:31.247" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6578" PostId="2799" Text="Don (my boss) is more of a web tech / valley startup tweeter than a photography tweeter. There's a number of photographers at the company, but Don's one of the last folks in the company that comes to mind as a serious photographer." CreationDate="2010-12-07T21:19:56.787" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6579" PostId="1246" Text="@kubistan: glad to hear it!" CreationDate="2010-12-07T21:22:10.073" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="6580" PostId="5427" Text="This seems a great answer! Thank you! I think I will go for the Canon, I've saw only fixed 28mm and 10-22mm seems too expensive. Is there a list of the default sizes? In many stores it comes bundle with a 18-55mm, how can I tell when they are talking about the equivalent or not? Because 28 seems to be between 18 and 55 :P" CreationDate="2010-12-07T23:15:33.643" UserId="2508" />
  <row Id="6581" PostId="5427" Text="With DSLRs the lenses are specified with the actual and not equivalent focal length, so you need to multiply by about 1.5, unless you get a very expensive 35mm DSLR (Canon 5D, 1Ds, Nikon D3). So, if it's a DSLR look for 17/18mm or lower, if it's a compact or bridge camera, look for 28mm equivalent or lower" CreationDate="2010-12-07T23:25:46.870" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6582" PostId="5495" Score="3" Text="To elaborate on Matt's comment, remember that the f-stop is a mathematical expression giving you the effective aperture size.  Divide focal length (f) by relative aperture (3.5 or 5.6) to get the real size of your aperture. 18mm/3.5 = 5.14mm, whereas 55mm/5.6 = 9.82mm." CreationDate="2010-12-07T23:35:00.713" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6583" PostId="5427" Text="I was unclear in the previous comment: I think I'll buy the Canon 1000D - The bundled 18-55 is good enough? What would be the &quot;one step further&quot; lens? " CreationDate="2010-12-07T23:53:11.693" UserId="2508" />
  <row Id="6584" PostId="5490" Text="You could try a spool of cotton, matching either the colour of the object being suspended or the background. That'd be fairly matt and probably thinner than fishing line." CreationDate="2010-12-08T00:48:50.737" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6585" PostId="5525" Score="2" Text="I just saw this question, and was going to chime in with: &quot;Eh, you know, if you're agonizing over this decision, you *really* want the nicer one. Life's short — go for it!&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-08T00:53:17.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6586" PostId="5473" Text="Well it yields 1.36x more light, so I guess it's 1/3rd stop brighter." CreationDate="2010-12-08T02:07:25.980" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6587" PostId="3036" Text="Football shoulders means straight on to the camera, the width of the shoulders are seen at their broadest.  " CreationDate="2010-12-08T03:53:55.303" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="6588" PostId="3036" Text="Mermaid pose is explained right there in the comment.  Imagine the woman is a mermaid, you seat her but keep her legs together going one way or the other." CreationDate="2010-12-08T03:55:55.490" UserId="69" />
  <row Id="6589" PostId="5521" Score="3" Text="Thanks for asking this and welcome to the site.  We've generally agreed that questions specific to a very local area are too focused to be on-topic for the general audience here.  You might be able to find a Boston specific answer at http://www.bwps.org or http://www.bostoncameraclub.org/" CreationDate="2010-12-08T04:14:55.040" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6590" PostId="5520" Score="5" Text="As it is currently worded, this question is pretty broad. Could you provide more specific information about what kind of portrait shots you are hoping to take?" CreationDate="2010-12-08T04:57:59.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6591" PostId="3857" Text="The 50L on the 5DII is brilliant. I actually had a muffler shop weld my 50L directly to the body." CreationDate="2010-12-08T06:08:56.650" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="6592" PostId="5506" Text="@mattdm, all answers above are theoretic only - no practical advises. So better to let the author to manually rotate all the pictures? ok. I've never seen any software that can do it automatically based on context, but in batch rotating mode you can do this work much faster than by doing it separately for every image. So lets see this answer as an additional to all answers above." CreationDate="2010-12-08T07:48:16.807" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6593" PostId="3859" Text="One of the main reasons for the slow shutter speed is the size of the sensor/mirror assembly and also the size of the files, at something like 25mb per RAW file. As far as I have read elsewhere." CreationDate="2010-12-08T08:03:02.893" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6594" PostId="5495" Text="Hi all, I've uploaded two photos one at 18 and the other at 55mm" CreationDate="2010-12-08T10:42:59.427" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6595" PostId="5493" Text="Did you get the effect you were after with either of these shots? If so great! One thing to note is that both were closeups, in order to get blurred backgrounds with bigger, more distant subjects you will either have to fake it, or get a lens with a bigger aperture (smaller f/ number) " CreationDate="2010-12-08T11:44:37.523" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6596" PostId="5493" Text="Hi Matt yes that was the effect I was after. I am planning on getting the Canon EF 50 mm f/1.8 II Lens and also the cheapo zoom Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS Telephoto to see what I can produce." CreationDate="2010-12-08T12:01:25.913" UserId="2543" />
  <row Id="6597" PostId="5533" Text="Thanks, I admit I wasn't thinking of parting with the MZ-6 quite yet. Yes, I was aware of being able to share the lenses, though apparently there is something complicated (for me) about sensor size altering the effective f-number (or something like that). I am *definitely* [using](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_W2DRhdPe644/TPffO24EOUI/AAAAAAAADI0/CcNLy4Xdw84/s1600/IMGP4421.JPG) the *istDS, alternately with my trusty [point-and-shoot](http://www.google.com/images?q=Sony+DSC-W30)." CreationDate="2010-12-08T13:08:29.770" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="6598" PostId="5516" Text="thanks a lot for your anwser I like the panasonic lumix zs7." CreationDate="2010-12-08T13:28:51.827" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="6599" PostId="4996" Text="thanks good tip." CreationDate="2010-12-08T13:29:17.273" UserId="2213" />
  <row Id="6600" PostId="5506" Score="3" Text="But Faststone doesn't do what the question asks, either, so it's *less* helpful than theoretical advice." CreationDate="2010-12-08T13:46:03.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6601" PostId="5533" Score="3" Text="+1 to the donation idea. Or if there's a Freecycle group in your area (http://www.freecycle.org/), there's surely a poor college kid or starving artist who would appreciate your generosity." CreationDate="2010-12-08T13:51:49.650" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6602" PostId="5534" Text="I took a quick look at what these things are going for. It's not very much -- to me, it wouldn't be worth the time and hassle." CreationDate="2010-12-08T15:11:31.080" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6603" PostId="5531" Text="@Matt Grum: why one notch down on shutter speed?" CreationDate="2010-12-08T15:43:02.697" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6604" PostId="5531" Text="Lol, totally forgot to explain that one! It's to account for any triggering delay (e.g. if using radio flash triggers) and is not necessary if your flash is on camera. " CreationDate="2010-12-08T15:49:37.463" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6605" PostId="5536" Text="I wouldn't be licking anything metal that goes into my new $800 camera, but thats just me." CreationDate="2010-12-08T16:53:12.043" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6606" PostId="5536" Text="Heh, at least it gets the job done!" CreationDate="2010-12-08T16:54:57.440" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="6607" PostId="5538" Text="There is a very similar question here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3813/how-many-actuations-are-too-many-actuations" CreationDate="2010-12-08T18:06:40.433" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="6608" PostId="5538" Text="I read through that thoroughly beforehand, however, nobody mentioned anything beyond &quot;well, if it still works, it still works&quot;. I'm interested in knowing if this has any impact on image quality and whether we should consider buying new cameras. Also to note, the shutter life expectancy database is unreliable, anyone can anonymously type anything they want there, which is why for example the Nikon D5000 has 3 entries between 3 and 3.6 million." CreationDate="2010-12-08T18:20:28.820" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6609" PostId="5542" Score="2" Text="All the 300Ds I've used have been quite thumpy/loud *by today's standards*, so your probably spot on that &quot;it's just as it is&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-08T19:00:56.710" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6610" PostId="5493" Text="cool. good luck!" CreationDate="2010-12-08T19:09:23.477" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6611" PostId="5542" Text="I don't understand why they all sound so different even between consecutive models in the same line with similar specs, you'd have thought the shutter unit would be shared across many models.." CreationDate="2010-12-08T19:10:30.060" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6612" PostId="5538" Text="I had/have that camera and it has always sounded rather slow/sluggish." CreationDate="2010-12-08T19:43:39.750" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6613" PostId="5538" Score="1" Text="I assume your friend is a pro? 1.15 million actuations on a 300D, provided that he bought it when it was introduced in October 2003, is around 450 photos *per day*, *every single day*. And 2.6 million would be the same per day if the other camera you mentioned was about 15 years old (probably impossible if it's a P&amp;S)." CreationDate="2010-12-08T20:11:34.290" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6614" PostId="3859" Text="@Nick. Yup... 25MB and sensor/mirror size" CreationDate="2010-12-08T21:07:09.897" UserId="1457" />
  <row Id="6615" PostId="5536" Text="If you want to avoid DIY you can get cheap triggers online (e.g. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.32963)" CreationDate="2010-12-08T21:25:31.027" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="6616" PostId="5540" Text="Can you script it? If you can, :D" CreationDate="2010-12-08T21:39:46.670" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="6617" PostId="5511" Text="Thanks for the link.&#xA;Unfortunately the Nikon SD Memory Cards are not listed in his - huge - database. At least I know now that it's gonna be a Sandisk, if I buy one (two). However I figured out, that the Nikon SD Memory Cards are Class 4 (4 MB/s) which will be definitively slower than the top notch card listed in Rob's DB for the D90." CreationDate="2010-12-08T22:26:33.143" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="6618" PostId="5538" Score="1" Text="@sebastien.b Nope, but his friend is semi-pro and I'm guessing is the one responsible for the first 3/4 million. The last 300k I'd attribute to him being a noob and over-shooting combined with shooting many performances where 1-5k images per session is the norm. As for the second camera it's a 5 year old PowerShot A640 and I use it exclusively for time-lapse projects i.e. it regularly shoots 10-100k images in a given period. I have several other time-lapse cameras with similarly high actuation counts." CreationDate="2010-12-08T22:48:22.860" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6619" PostId="5540" Text="If by script it you mean write arbitrary scripts to interact with the camera then no.  The source is available if you want to work with it but if you've never done any microcontroller/ARM development you'll probably be in deep." CreationDate="2010-12-08T22:59:21.983" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="6620" PostId="3758" Text="Lightroom kicks ass." CreationDate="2010-12-08T23:16:38.417" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6621" PostId="5543" Text="ACDSee and the other stuff you mention doesn't do this either." CreationDate="2010-12-08T23:20:10.097" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6622" PostId="5548" Text="@glenneroo I haven't, thanks for the links." CreationDate="2010-12-09T00:36:28.643" UserId="2570" />
  <row Id="6623" PostId="5547" Text="This is off-topic for this site, really. But I don't think your stitching approach is the best, because of the perspective distortion you're fighting with. I think you're better off either starting from source data (&lt;http://ad.usno.navy.mil/star/star_cats_rec.shtml&gt;?) and rendering as you want, or else finding someone who has done something closer to what you want already." CreationDate="2010-12-09T00:48:56.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6624" PostId="5545" Text="Funny, I find the LR UI to be *more* distracting, mostly because there tends to be a lot of UI there that you can't get rid of, whereas on Aperture, it's easier (at least as far as I've been able to tell) to get more things to be more hidden more of the time.  Instead of being black, they're just gone." CreationDate="2010-12-09T02:34:15.593" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6625" PostId="5550" Text="I second the disposable cleaning papers/tissues. They are relatively cheap, and do a superb job of cleaning a lens (even when used dry.) " CreationDate="2010-12-09T03:20:26.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6626" PostId="5547" Score="1" Text="This is a general image editing question, which really is an off-topic question here, despite the 'photo-editing' tag. We do discuss tools like Hugin and the concept of stitching images, however they need to be specifically related to photography. My apologies, but I am going to close this as off-topic. If you have questions about stitching or stacking actual night sky or star photographs, we will be glad to help you out. " CreationDate="2010-12-09T03:24:00.320" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6627" PostId="5550" Text="+1 on the name brand camera ones being nothing special. The canon microfiber cleaning cloth that came with my 5D2 is indistinguishable from the cheap no name one I picked up several years prior for $1 just to bump an online order up a few cents to put it into free shipping realm.  The one exception to that, Zeiss. We buy a box of their pre-moistened single use cleaning papers/tissue in the optical section of the local warehouse store about once a year. Love them for cleaning glass &amp; screens (both cam and lappy) Heck, I think I've even used one for eyeglasses (what they're made for). :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T04:28:58.930" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6628" PostId="2158" Score="1" Text="Note that a big part of this, for compacts, is that they tend to have much smaller sensors, and thus have shorter focal-length lenses, which by their nature allow for a greater depth of field, which is highly useful for close-focusing -- the ones that make use of this can sometimes be &quot;better&quot; than an SLR giving you an image of the same sized subject, because you have greater depth of field with a lower aperture number.  The trade-off is that you tend to be much closer to the subject -- perhaps even touching it with the barrel of the lens!  (Not always great for photographing living things.)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:07:49.897" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6629" PostId="5228" Text="Note: while &quot;focusing rail&quot; is a valid name, you'll often also see the word &quot;Macro&quot; in there -- &quot;macro focusing rail&quot;.  As far as I know, there aren't two different things here, just pointing that out lest anyone wonder.  Oh, and another note: these come in 1- (common), 2- (also common, perhaps even more common than 1-), or (I think, though I believe these to be relatively rare) 3-axis versions.  (Note: &quot;4-way&quot; probably means 2-axis: front/back, left/right -- two axes, 4 &quot;ways&quot; to move.)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:10:58.927" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6630" PostId="2721" Text="note!  the MP-E 65mm is *only* a Macro lens.  The 100mm/2.8 is a macro lens that can also be used as an everyday 100mm prime, and can focus to infinity.  (Unless my memory is incorrect, the 65mm doesn't even have a way to &quot;focus&quot;, per se, it only has a way to change magnification -- focus is obtained by moving the camera and/or subject.)  Both are great lenses, just realize that the one is exclusive to a single domain, and the other can be used for all sorts of things." CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:20:24.187" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6631" PostId="2721" Score="1" Text="p.s. Canon also makes a 180mm macro, which (like the 100mm) also focuses to infinity.  Having the longer focal length also gives you a greater distance between the front of the lens and the subject -- which could be useful for insects (especially if you're shooting live ones)." CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:27:19.997" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6632" PostId="2719" Text="Note that the IS is likely only relevant when doing hand-held macro shooting (which is hard, so yes, this would help!); for tripod-based still shooting (which means non-living subjects, most likely), the IS won't really matter." CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:29:03.113" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6633" PostId="5551" Text="That is one cool idea :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T05:57:29.720" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="6634" PostId="5041" Text="Thanks for the pointers on the grid view vs filmstrip view. I was able to get the tagging done in short order due to your advice." CreationDate="2010-12-09T06:47:58.850" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="6635" PostId="5118" Text="Thanks for the feedback. I think I will subscribe, if for nothing else than the resources available. Fortunately I can get the student discount, a slim one but better than none!" CreationDate="2010-12-09T06:49:31.050" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="6636" PostId="5543" Text="@Remus Rigo, don't repeat my mistake ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T09:51:14.620" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6637" PostId="5557" Text="Love the question.  +1.  Trying to come up with some answers!" CreationDate="2010-12-09T10:52:25.400" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6638" PostId="5559" Score="1" Text="Illustrated! +1 :) Remind me: wide aperture = small f-number, yes?" CreationDate="2010-12-09T11:00:40.633" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="6640" PostId="5557" Text="You should change the title of the question. It's not a question. Your last paragraph is where your question is so this should be titled &quot;Is there a catalog of end result images and settings, functions, and techniques to achieve that end result?&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-09T11:20:42.420" UserId="15" />
  <row Id="6642" PostId="5559" Score="3" Text="Yes, wide aperture = small f-number.  The &quot;f-number&quot; is expressed in terms of a ratio - f/x, where x is the &quot;f-number&quot; and f is the focal length of the lens... so, f/4, for a 100mm lens (say, because the math is easy) has an actual physical opening of 25mm (100/4 = 25).  f/8 gives 12.5mm for the same lens, though for a 50mm lens, f/4 is 12.5.  The details of this math are rarely important when taking pictures, but perhaps knowing this will help you remember how the numbers go." CreationDate="2010-12-09T11:34:03.480" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6643" PostId="5534" Text="@mattdm: valid point.  Still, to the buyer, it might very well be a welcome thing.  @Benjol: If you want to get rid of them, but the hassle is too much, then see @John Cavan's answer.  (And if you don't want to get rid of them, then obviously this isn't your choice.)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:11:29.360" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6644" PostId="5560" Score="2" Text="I think you forgot an option: Keep using them!  :)  (Or is that part of the &quot;Posterity&quot; answer?)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:13:19.203" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6645" PostId="5532" Score="1" Text="whatever you do, please don't throw them away.  *Give* them away (or sell them), if you don't want them.  Even if they're broken, though, someone could find them useful (for parts, or as collectables, or something).  If it were me, I'd either give/sell them, or just use them!  There's still (to me) something neat about shooting film -- getting a tangible thing back as your master image.  Even if you only shoot them every now and then, it's still an option." CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:15:56.843" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6646" PostId="5547" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/230/recommendations-for-panorama-creation-stitching-tools for recommendations on tools for stitching photos together." CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:24:04.107" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6647" PostId="5563" Text="Exactly what I was looking for, with example. This will make an excellent resource. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:25:19.373" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="6648" PostId="5562" Text="Apparently my question wasn't very well worded, but this *is* what I was looking for anyway :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T12:35:05.607" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="6649" PostId="5560" Text="@lindes, you should put that in an answer. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T13:26:29.443" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6650" PostId="5540" Text="Aww. I was hoping for something like CHDK, as I am also using this camera for scanning books, and those motion detecting scripts would be amazingly useful..." CreationDate="2010-12-09T14:24:07.697" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="6651" PostId="5553" Text="I got the packaged EF-S18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS. I works for my needs, but I was wishing that I would have gotten that telephoto lens for $150, as it's back to $300..." CreationDate="2010-12-09T14:26:20.410" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="6652" PostId="5566" Score="3" Text="The sliders in stereo amplifiers that you use to (manually) set the *balance* between the left and right audio channels?" CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:00:37.180" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="6653" PostId="5559" Text="Thanks, @Benjol. I've added a note to that effect.  " CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:13:21.663" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6654" PostId="5566" Score="1" Text="It's probably worth noting that the triangles are sometimes drawn as outlines and sometimes filled in..." CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:42:25.243" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6655" PostId="5557" Text="Great question and some a.c.e answers - I won't get pedantic about the title - rules are meant to be broken ;-)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:47:33.350" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="6656" PostId="5564" Score="2" Text="&quot;a slow shitter speed&quot; is a funny typo :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:53:12.647" UserId="741" />
  <row Id="6657" PostId="5504" Text="I'll have to check that out. In defence of the D5000, I'd say the swivelling LCD can be very useful too. bit of a pain-in-the-arse on a tripod though ..." CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:54:14.843" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="6658" PostId="2871" Score="1" Text="+1 for plugging your own camera sale ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:54:58.850" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="6659" PostId="2721" Text="Aye, the MP-E is a pure macro lens that is only useful for close-up work. (It does indeed have a focus ring, but it is a manual-focus lens.) I guess it depends on how you approach things...me, I like to have the best tool for the job. I would use a 135mm prime for portrait work, and something like the 100-400mm or maybe a 400mm prime for telephoto work, while using the MP-E for macro work." CreationDate="2010-12-09T17:40:02.660" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6660" PostId="5041" Text="Glad to be of service. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T17:40:45.453" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6661" PostId="5575" Score="3" Text="Note: A DSLR without live view can still measure white balance using the entire sensor. The white balance is applied after capturing the image, as evident by the fact that the data stored in a raw file is before white balance is applied." CreationDate="2010-12-09T17:54:29.327" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="6662" PostId="5575" Text="@Guffa - I believe your logic is flawed, try to use a preset white-balance instead and the RAW file data won't have white-balance applied either. You are right though that any camera could do the white-balance computation post-capture but I have seen no evidence to it, perhaps it is a question of performance but I doubt it. If you read the specifications of a modern DSLR, such as the Nikon D7000, it says something like '2016 pixels white-balance sensor' which strongly suggests it is not done with the entire imaging-sensor." CreationDate="2010-12-09T18:14:37.227" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6663" PostId="5575" Text="I think it's a simple performance optimisation - you don't need to sample every pixel, and if you did you'd end up doing one raw conversion to measure the white balance, and then another conversion with this balance in hand" CreationDate="2010-12-09T19:06:36.093" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6664" PostId="5560" Text="@AJ: It was late, I was tired, and now it's already been done. I'm happy to answer already-answered questions when I feel there's something significant to add, or if I think a wholly different approach warrants mention... But when an already great answer just has room for improvement, I think the community benefits more from a comment on that answer. " CreationDate="2010-12-09T19:20:38.690" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6665" PostId="5563" Text="Glad to hear it. You're welcome!" CreationDate="2010-12-09T19:22:23.587" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6666" PostId="5571" Score="2" Text="Well, it may be accessible, but don't take it too seriously. He's prone to writing whatever comes into his head at the moment as gospel. Make sure to read http://www.kenrockwell.com/about.htm#intro " CreationDate="2010-12-09T20:02:37.987" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6667" PostId="5571" Text="Yes, he is a good writer but not necessarily the final word. Plenty of people doing the opposite of what he does and are happy with it. And the nice thing about Photography is that there *isn't* a final word on how to go about things. As long as you are happy with the results, you can go out there with a hand-made camera and make prints on t-shirts with a screen printing machine." CreationDate="2010-12-09T21:55:21.830" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="6668" PostId="5573" Score="1" Text="Olympus uses the Canon icon, too: http://www.expoimaging.com/MediaFiles/instructions/EN_37.pdf" CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:18:45.883" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6669" PostId="5585" Score="5" Text="This type of question is discouraged on this site. You could use this site to answer this question by careful research and analysis of what you want, however this question is not what we like to see. I recommend taking a look at http://www.dpreview.com/ and perusing old questions from this site. At the very least add more details to this one." CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:29:37.823" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6670" PostId="3975" Text="just a partial update, I haven't yet played with this. I will in the next week or so, and then update this thread. Thanks for your patience." CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:31:34.810" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6671" PostId="5585" Score="1" Text="Hi Peter. While we don't mind equipment recommendations when they are specific and non-subjective, that have clear and definitive answers, this question falls into the very subjective bucket that will, at best, only garner &quot;fuzzy&quot; or &quot;brand-loyalist&quot; type answers. These sorts of questions and answers don't really benefit the community in any constructive way. If you can make your question more specific and less subjective, I'll keep it around. As it stands, it will need to be closed. I'll come back around in an hour or so to see what further action to take." CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:39:33.057" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6672" PostId="5575" Text="@Itai: There is no flaw in the logic, but it's partly based on your original statement, which you just contradicted. If the entire sensor isn't used anyway, there is no benefit for a fixed lens camera or a camera with live view in the first place." CreationDate="2010-12-09T22:47:36.707" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="6673" PostId="5582" Score="1" Text="Just like how people already don't know why it's &quot;floppy&quot;. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-09T23:02:21.443" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="6674" PostId="5571" Text="I've learnt not to take anyone too seriously. Not even those who contribute to StackExchange sites ;-)  &#xA;  &#xA;I'm not suggesting he's God, but I think its a decent enough place to start learning how to operate an SLR, do *bokeh* and put a basic set of kit and lenses together." CreationDate="2010-12-09T23:40:43.597" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="6675" PostId="5579" Score="1" Text="Google Image Search handles licensing metadata for thousands of sites, including deviantart.&#xA;http://www.google.com/images?as_q=&amp;um=1&amp;hl=en&amp;biw=898&amp;bih=583&amp;btnG=Google+Search&amp;as_epq=&amp;as_oq=&amp;as_eq=&amp;as_sitesearch=deviantart.com&amp;safe=images&amp;as_st=y&amp;tbs=isch:1,iur:f" CreationDate="2010-12-09T23:43:53.140" UserId="2094" />
  <row Id="6676" PostId="5530" Text="Low ISO is still important, especially when the highest image quality is required or desired." CreationDate="2010-12-10T01:41:33.263" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6677" PostId="5556" Text="Nice find! Wow, no his camera sounds a _lot_ different! I should record it and put it online somewhere ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-10T01:43:31.387" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6678" PostId="5587" Text="The &quot;exposure triangle,&quot; I'll keep that in mind. Very informative! I'll study those articles." CreationDate="2010-12-10T01:50:15.493" UserId="2586" />
  <row Id="6679" PostId="5589" Score="1" Text="Actually, there's a third factor in how much light hits the sensor (or film, for those still using it): the amount of light in (i.e. brightness of) the scene (whatever area is visible through the lens). This factor of course doesn't correspond to a control on the camera itself, but it is an important factor in exposure, and can be controlled to a greater degree than people necessarily are accustomed to thinking about. Just something to keep in mind. " CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:34:43.930" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6680" PostId="5575" Text="I'm a bit skeptical here - assuming everything is color neutral might have been how it was originally done, but that's so brittle I doubt it works very well. My strong guess would be that it is done using a database of reference images and/or various heuristics. Do you have any reference to support the claim that it mostly tries to neutralize the overall color?" CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:47:39.327" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6681" PostId="5569" Text="Great question!" CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:47:57.877" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6682" PostId="5576" Score="1" Text="Humm, but if I take a picture of a blue wall, it comes out blue, not white. I don't have my camera handy, but what about an off-white wall? Does that get pushed to neutral white?" CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:49:48.590" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6683" PostId="5585" Score="5" Text="The worst thing about a question like this is that the best answers are almost certain to be different 6 months from now, but old answers will continue to clutter up the internet forever." CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:55:01.823" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="6684" PostId="2763" Text="+1 for Take lots of images and Experiment. That is surely the best way to make the most of your equipment." CreationDate="2010-12-10T02:59:24.927" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="6685" PostId="5575" Text="@Reid - Note the use of the world 'original'. Camera makers do not publish their formula directly but you can read papers and patents on the subject to learn more. There are literally hundreds of ways it is done but *I* do not know of any that uses a reference images (metering is known to do it that way, but that is something entirely different), only reference illuminants." CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:00:17.223" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6686" PostId="5580" Text="Very nice answer!" CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:09:54.753" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6687" PostId="5592" Score="1" Text="+1 Good point about volume, though I've recovered some shots that I thought were toast before. I'm not entirely sure what Adobe means about &quot;address space&quot; for this... I'm going to assume that it isn't an integer because that massively exceeds 1,000,000 on even a 32 bit platform. Quite obscure there." CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:19:43.173" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6688" PostId="5587" Text="This hits one of my serious pet peeves. Exposure is not like a triangle at all, and it's counter to learning to suggest that it is. Sure, there's three things, but they're not linked like the sides (or angles) of a triangle, so every diagram -- like the one linked to here -- is nonsense. That nonsense is powerful visually, so it gets in people's heads. " CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:32:28.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6689" PostId="5587" Text="@mattdm - I've found it useful  as a visual that indicates that they're &quot;connected&quot;.  Its simple and is just a reminder.  I'm not sure how I find anything &quot;bad&quot; about it.   Sure, you could pick anything visual with three ...things.., but a triangle is just simple." CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:37:32.900" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6690" PostId="5587" Score="4" Text="If you need a geometric representation, try a cube (or technically, rectangular prism). Height, width, and depth are analogous to iso/shutter speed/aperture. Each doubling or halving of any dimension is one stop. And then, the exposure value is simply the volume. This works out to be exactly right: double any one factor, double the volume. If you want to maintain the same volume, while doubling one factor, you're  going to have to half something else. The pictures are a little harder to print in 2D, but it's still pretty simple, and unlike a triangle, it's actually *useful* and *correct*." CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:38:18.547" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6691" PostId="5587" Text="@mattdm - I like it :)  Updated the answer a bit with that." CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:39:46.530" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6693" PostId="5587" Text="Cool. Now we just need to convince Brian Peterson and I'll be *all set*. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:49:24.657" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6694" PostId="5594" Text="ooooh that could be fun! hmmm but it says it works with catalog version 1.4.1. Will have to play around I guess ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-10T03:53:58.247" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6695" PostId="5587" Text="The only thing that takes a bit of footnoting is that the dimension labeled aperture has to represent the actual area of the aperture, not f/stops. But even that can work as a segue into explaining what that odd-seeming sequence actually means. It's great, in fact: measure along an edge of the cube in whole numbers (inches or cm or whatever), and then in parenthesis mark the square root of each number. Tada: on each doubling (which, of course, represents one stop), there's f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, etc." CreationDate="2010-12-10T04:09:24.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6696" PostId="5594" Text="I doubt they've mucked with the underlying DB structure of the database, so you're probably good to go. I don't use LR, I use Photoshop with Bridge, I catalog my own way (on the file system and on backups), so that's probably all I can add." CreationDate="2010-12-10T04:13:43.053" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6697" PostId="5588" Text="One can, in fact, get a very good new entry level dSLR for under $600, with kit zoom lens. And I expect price pressure and competition to make that a fact for at least the next few years." CreationDate="2010-12-10T04:14:21.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6698" PostId="5595" Score="1" Text="In #1, do you mean &quot;low noise&quot; in that it's quiet, or low noise in terms of image quality? The rest of your list implies that its sonic quality you mean here." CreationDate="2010-12-10T04:22:50.880" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6699" PostId="5597" Text="I'm with you on this answer, with the caveat that in most parts of the country/world the advice to handle-in-store first is an unfortunate strike against Pentax, which has had trouble in the retail channel. It may be hard to *find* one to hold, but that doesn't mean it shouldn't get real consideration. The ergonomics of Pentax/Nikon are pretty close anyway — Canon has a much bigger difference in control layout. So if you like the way the D3100 feels, you'll probaby be happy with the K-x as well." CreationDate="2010-12-10T04:35:05.213" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6700" PostId="5597" Text="+1 with a caveat: As a D3100 owner, the lack of an auto focus motor in motor eliminates a lot of the reasonably priced older Nikon lenses - its a hidden cost of that camera (and a few other low end Nikons)." CreationDate="2010-12-10T04:40:20.263" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6701" PostId="5593" Text="Your advice to check out the camera at the store then buy it online is very short sighted. If everyone did that, there wouldn't be any stores left. I believe in rewarding a store for the value it adds to your transaction i.e. giving you a chance to sample the goods, as long as they aren't usurious about it." CreationDate="2010-12-10T05:31:41.987" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="6703" PostId="5597" Text="I don't want to start a brand war, but I disagree with the statement that Nikon are the &quot;speed demons&quot; of the DSLR world - since the release of the 1D in 2001 Canon have been consistently faster until the D3 at the end of 2007. Even then the D3 only shoots at 11fps vs. 10fps and has to reduce the image down to 5megapixels to do so, whilst the Canon 1DmkIV can shoot 16mp images at 10fps." CreationDate="2010-12-10T08:41:27.187" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6704" PostId="5597" Score="1" Text="Also since the 90s Canon has been utterly dominant in the professional sports market due to superior AF and supertelephoto lenses, Nikon are making comeback thanks to the excellent D3s and Canon's 1D mkIII fiasco, but if you look at any major sporting event you'll see a sea of white Canon supertelephotos." CreationDate="2010-12-10T08:43:21.303" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6705" PostId="5597" Text="@Matt Grum - I agree, I'm just basing the statement on the DxO scores there versus the price range. I'll adjust the response, it's a good point." CreationDate="2010-12-10T11:35:11.417" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6706" PostId="5597" Text="@mattdm - Not so much a problem in Canada, so I tend not to think of that. Personally, I wouldn't buy a camera I couldn't handle in the store." CreationDate="2010-12-10T11:39:16.750" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6707" PostId="5572" Score="2" Text="As a fellow developer, I wholeheartedly agree! +1" CreationDate="2010-12-10T11:40:07.840" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6708" PostId="5582" Text="good point (sadly)   :-(" CreationDate="2010-12-10T11:40:46.217" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6709" PostId="5329" Text="you really are a geek, aren't you?  ;-)" CreationDate="2010-12-10T11:42:58.137" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6710" PostId="5576" Text="good point about &quot;correct&quot; balance." CreationDate="2010-12-10T11:46:27.870" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6711" PostId="5601" Text="I've got that far, but I'm wanting to split the image selection into the parts that are gold, and the parts that are black.  Then I can adjust each separately; notably to be able to change the gold to silver etc." CreationDate="2010-12-10T12:17:53.080" UserId="978" />
  <row Id="6712" PostId="5597" Score="1" Text="I think handling in the store is overrated. Things that seem horrible on first impression may be livable after all, while great features and design which benefit day-to-day use might not jump out. One can't really get a feel for a camera without shooting with it for a week or so." CreationDate="2010-12-10T12:59:45.183" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6713" PostId="5604" Score="1" Text="That formula assumes you know the front and rear modal points which in general aren't manufacturer specified, so you'll have to measure them for each lens. Plus the formula isn't valid for lenses which change focal length when focussing, so I don't think it's quite what the questioner as after." CreationDate="2010-12-10T15:11:58.780" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6714" PostId="5607" Text="https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&amp;pid=explorer&amp;chrome=true&amp;srcid=1qnlxLVgsFxlb3WnPDc3ne9c3T6DrF8hmcXWaNtWK-NGdRcbOWKx0S0h7zQ-M&amp;hl=en&amp;authkey=CJjt4fME DPreview.com comparison in a Google Doc" CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:00:00.757" UserId="2596" />
  <row Id="6715" PostId="5329" Text="Yes, AJ... and proud of it. :) Doubly proud to also consider myself an artist. " CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:24:10.700" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6716" PostId="5600" Text="I'd like to know more on how this will be printed, you said 'set up as a spot for printing,' so will you be taking this to a commercial printer for posters or to a screen printer for t-shirts or something similar? If so, what exactly does the printer need -- can you let us know what his requirements are? Then we could give you a better idea how to get there from here." CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:32:23.127" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="6717" PostId="5551" Text="Oh my goodness, that's fantastic! I've actually been thinking about doing some projection-based art, but rigging up a camera with an optically-slaved flash to do it... This I had not thought of. Wow. I will totally have to play with this concept. " CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:35:10.460" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6718" PostId="5605" Text="Is it truly accurate to say that the focal length changes? My understanding of optics in any detail is in its infancy, but my understanding thus far is that by moving the lens (which is all an extension tube really does), the focal length won't change (though perhaps the magnification might? Or what we've collectively started calling the &quot;effective focal length&quot;), but rather, the distance changes for the focal *plane*, which causes the in-focus plane to change... I'll try to find some resources and post them in an answer. I -think-, though, that this answer is factually questionable. I think." CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:44:18.647" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6719" PostId="5605" Text="Whether or not the focal length changes and to what degree depends on the lens, as I stated. For the simplest case of a pinhole lens it's easy to see that the focal length changes if you move the pinhole further from the camera, since the focal length is **defined** as the distance from the pinhole to the imaging plane! " CreationDate="2010-12-10T17:21:38.997" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6720" PostId="5612" Text="I chose the HX5 over the WX5 for exactly those reasons: GPS and better zoom are more important to me than newer/cheaper/better flash. Which only reinforces your point: it depends on what you want out of your camera." CreationDate="2010-12-10T17:41:48.340" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="6721" PostId="5604" Text="With a simple (i.e. single-element) lens, the focal length never ever changes (unless you change the shape of the lens -- or unless you're being very specific and talking about different colors of light, or the like), and this is absolutely correct (in fact, moving the position of the lens is all you're doing to change the focus anyway, so an extension tube just lets you move it further).  For complex (multi-element) lenses, I don't understand the optics principles well enough to be sure if the same holds true.  But the film plane is always the &quot;target&quot; of the focus, right? So... I'd think so." CreationDate="2010-12-10T17:51:19.200" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6722" PostId="5604" Text="Some of my sources for learning (which I'll hopefully later pull together in an answer of my own -- no time for that now, though):  http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=F703024381DE9004 -- and in particular, these two: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKfqO4tBfPc&amp;p=F703024381DE9004 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjIfdXnhyQI&amp;p=F703024381DE9004" CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:14:19.840" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6723" PostId="5615" Score="2" Text="Just an aside: I think you're seriously misusing the DXOmark overall sensor scores by labeling them as &quot;image quality&quot;. The sensor score number is actually only a technical reading of a few of the factors that go into image quality. And,since it is a composite of the factors they measure, you double-count by also including their individual measurements (like dynamic range). And your presentation of color depth is egregiously misleading, with, for example 22.7 bits vs 22.6 bits being described as &quot;Distinguishes around 10% more colors&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:26:50.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6724" PostId="5604" Score="1" Text="@Matt Grum - I think the equation illustrates the principle behind it which seems to be the crux of the question. At least it did to me. :) " CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:28:39.283" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6725" PostId="5615" Text="I once went into a tourist-destination cave, and like all such caves, something had to be the most something-est in the world. With this one, it was &quot;the cave with the most different colors in its rock formations!&quot; Once we got inside, it quickly became clear that all of the different colors were *shades of grayish-brown*." CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:28:47.333" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6726" PostId="5615" Text="Thanks for the feedback.  Yes, in the 'reasons to consider' I see what you mean.  The actual scoring/ranking does not double count though (re image quality and dynamic range etc).  Color depth - how would you suggest we present it? The site calculate # of colors (2^n).  Re the sensor score being image quality, are you thinking we should name it something closer to &quot;sensor score&quot;?  I  agree, it doesn't take into account sharpness and other image quality metrics." CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:31:00.483" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6727" PostId="5612" Text="Cheaper is always good! I was leaning towards the WX5. I wanted to get some options from other people. " CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:37:06.287" UserId="2596" />
  <row Id="6728" PostId="5615" Text="Hopefully your camera captures good color depth, so you could fully capture the shades of grayish-brown :)" CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:39:20.437" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6729" PostId="5604" Text="@John Cavan - the formula illustrates well why extension tubes decrease the minimum focussing distance, but I think the questioner was looking for a formula that he can use to judge what length extension tube you need to buy for a given lens in order to increase magnification x times, which unfortunately is not possible in the general case..." CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:39:48.907" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6730" PostId="5589" Text="Sure, you are absolutely right. While there's nothing you can do about this in landscape photography (except waiting for another time of the day and different weather conditions), you can surely make something about it in a studio or using a flash." CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:30:48.067" UserId="2379" />
  <row Id="6731" PostId="5601" Score="1" Text="I'm not sure I understand, once you have the gold selected you can do what you like with it. If you invert the selection and then press delete, it will isolate the gold on that layer permanently, you can then add a plain black layer behind it to edit each selectively if that's what you're after." CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:32:41.113" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6732" PostId="5616" Score="1" Text="Looking at your blog, I agree w/your friends, great photographs!" CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:42:04.453" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6733" PostId="1228" Text="Does anyone know if the Camera Connection Kit will allow him to delete photos though? I am curious." CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:53:28.530" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6734" PostId="5604" Text="@Matt Grum. Agreed, but you can get close enough for government work with it!" CreationDate="2010-12-10T19:57:43.067" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6735" PostId="5604" Text="Lol great expression!" CreationDate="2010-12-10T20:13:11.280" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6736" PostId="5600" Text="When I go to print, I want to be able to specify a metallic color to for the hand print so it's shiny. In particular, I'd change the gold to silver. I'd also like to retain the black element as a channel in case I decide to do CMYK printing instead. " CreationDate="2010-12-10T20:17:41.483" UserId="978" />
  <row Id="6737" PostId="5600" Text="Strangely, I think this is the same issue I encountered here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2359/how-do-i-make-a-bottle-image-transparent.  I could use Gimp's &quot;Colour to Alpha&quot; tool and then convert the alpha layer to Gold, and then I'd be left with the black elements to extract to another layer." CreationDate="2010-12-10T20:21:11.747" UserId="978" />
  <row Id="6738" PostId="5615" Text="@Alex, your site is really cool! Thanks for posting it!" CreationDate="2010-12-10T20:33:21.997" UserId="2596" />
  <row Id="6739" PostId="5615" Text="@DjFarout - awesome thx! You might also like my other new site: http://lenshero.com" CreationDate="2010-12-10T23:26:49.363" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6740" PostId="5585" Text="Apologies for not closing this. Old friend came by last night and I have not had a chance to visit the site until now." CreationDate="2010-12-11T00:02:28.240" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6741" PostId="5563" Text="Just updated with another half dozen ideas.  Hope you enjoy!" CreationDate="2010-12-11T00:10:39.073" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6742" PostId="1049" Score="1" Text="Nice answer, Rowland... though I might perhaps partially disagree with one part of it: Sometimes taking the position of the &quot;clown&quot; (as opposed to the &quot;director&quot; or &quot;authority&quot; figure) can be very helpful to get people feeling comfortable -- by &quot;making fun of yourself&quot;, they start laughing at you -- which is incompatible with being self-conscious.  So, you get them being them.  Even between laughs (in case that's not what you want), this can make for less discomfort for them.  Just a thought." CreationDate="2010-12-11T00:20:16.253" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6743" PostId="1085" Text="Hmm, that link seems to have gotten munged... here's another stab at it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stina_Lundberg_Dabrowski#The_Stina_jump -- hope that one works.  All credit to @Guffa.  :)" CreationDate="2010-12-11T00:23:38.623" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6744" PostId="1124" Text="Yes!  I've seen this one work quite well -- from both sides of the camera, in fact.  I think part of it, too, is that you, the photographer, are actually more engaged with the person -- you've set all your settings, framed your shot, and no longer have to be thinking about anything other than when to click the shutter.  So almost all of your attention is now on the subject, which they'll surely respond to." CreationDate="2010-12-11T00:25:40.383" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6745" PostId="5615" Text="@Alex -- mind if I turn that into its own question for this site? (Or you could — I already have an answer in mind, but maybe others have helpful suggestions too.)" CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:12:15.087" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6746" PostId="5615" Text="@mattdm no I don't mind, go for it." CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:16:33.727" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="6747" PostId="5627" Text="+1 for any camera with the new generation of Sony sensors." CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:32:26.617" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6748" PostId="5605" Text="Ahh, but a pinhole is not a lens, and as I understand it, for *lenses* (or optical systems in general??), the focal distance is defined not by the distance between the point and the imaging plane, but between the center of the lens and a point, given an input of parallel lines.  Is that not correct?  (Note: see video links on my comment to John's answer -- http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5603/how-to-define-what-an-extension-tube-does/5604#5604 -- also, note that I'm genuinely asking; I'm relatively new to understanding optics at this level.)" CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:42:12.940" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6749" PostId="5629" Text="@jrista : Your lack of parenthesis threw me for a momentarily loop.  Should be  Magnification = (IntrinsicExtension + TubeExtension) / FocalLength ?" CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:55:31.737" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6750" PostId="5627" Text="@rfusca - Yeah, Sony hit that one out of the park. If they pull a FF sensor based on that, it'll turn the medium format world on its ear. If I was a Nikon shooter, I'd probably be holding on until the next FF comes out, but as a Pentaxian, my only higher option is the 645D and, while the camera blows my mind, it's a major change as it's basically a whole new system." CreationDate="2010-12-11T01:59:07.497" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6751" PostId="5627" Text="wow, those are impressive images for those settings. thanks for sharing" CreationDate="2010-12-11T03:05:09.930" UserId="274" />
  <row Id="6752" PostId="5627" Text="@newfie_coder: Thanks. They aren't D7000 samples, but given everything I've seen or read in comparison of the K-5 and D7000, I think you can pull similar out of it." CreationDate="2010-12-11T04:23:50.900" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6753" PostId="5629" Text="@rfusca: You are correct, I forgot to stick in parens. Its totalExtension / focalLength, so intrinsic and tube extension lengths have to be added together." CreationDate="2010-12-11T04:25:12.530" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6754" PostId="5637" Text="thanks for your input, my problem is that my 100D's focusing hunts a lot, and that pisses me off and discourages picture taking at times ... any thoughts?" CreationDate="2010-12-11T09:29:20.100" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="6755" PostId="5637" Text="do you thinkg 40D is still relevant? if not - what body would you recommend?" CreationDate="2010-12-11T10:14:03.510" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="6756" PostId="5629" Score="1" Text="Oddly enough, the 50mm f/1.8 *is* the lens (well, OK, *one* of the lenses) I'm extending -- and those links look really useful, too. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-11T12:29:58.650" UserId="206" />
  <row Id="6757" PostId="5605" Text="Yes you are correct a pinhole has no focal length as the focal length describes a lenses ability to bend light, what I meant to say is that the effective focal length of a pinehole system is the distance between the pinhole and screen, i.e. it gives the same field of view as a lens with the same fl. The point is you need to make assumptions about an imaging system in order to predict how it will behave if you change one of the parameters without knowing the others." CreationDate="2010-12-11T14:44:53.183" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6758" PostId="5645" Score="1" Text="+1 I have to agree, spend the money on the gear after the course and get a sense of what your options are and then buy armed with better knowledge." CreationDate="2010-12-11T15:55:49.700" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6759" PostId="5647" Score="3" Text="What a coincidence but I happen to have a K-5 and a 40D! Also a K-7 as well, which is simply a backup to the K-5. I use them in different circumstances. The one thing that is awesome on the 40D is the AF-C (Continuous AF, no problems on mine) which is why that's the camera I take out for sports photography. For landscape, architecture and general travel, I take the K-5." CreationDate="2010-12-11T16:06:46.357" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6760" PostId="5645" Score="4" Text="Awesome answer. I can vouch for this since I have many photography students who tell me they would have bought something else had they known what they learned in the course. Where I work, it has happened that we loaned a student a camera for the course in a similar circumstance." CreationDate="2010-12-11T16:11:03.623" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6761" PostId="5638" Text="I've the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 IS USM Lens, and have not been happy with its performance" CreationDate="2010-12-11T16:14:27.553" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6762" PostId="5635" Text="I checked my D3100, I don't think this is an option." CreationDate="2010-12-11T17:54:48.707" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6763" PostId="5636" Score="1" Text="If you're considering brand switching anyways, the Nikon D7000 is in the same price range as the K-5.  Just another option - not that I'm say a new camera body is the way to go." CreationDate="2010-12-11T17:59:11.743" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6764" PostId="5650" Score="1" Text="The 100-400 is a good lens for this situation. I use it for about 90% of my wildlife shots." CreationDate="2010-12-11T18:53:09.493" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="6765" PostId="5649" Text="Thank you for the detailed answer. I guess I misspoke when I said &quot;fast&quot; focus. I'm having a hard time focusing for portraits with my K100D and 50mm F1.4 manual lens, might be a problem with my body though. Another thing I like it &quot;natural&quot; portraits (i.e. sneak up on people and make a picture before they can pull a pose), if the focus hunts for 3 seconds - the moment is lost. I hope I made myself clear." CreationDate="2010-12-11T18:59:37.680" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="6767" PostId="5635" Text="Oh - sorry, I was hoping it was" CreationDate="2010-12-11T19:48:45.913" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="6768" PostId="5634" Text="I have been wondering the same." CreationDate="2010-12-11T20:34:41.043" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6770" PostId="5637" Text="@Shane Kelly, &quot;as wide as you can for landscapes&quot;? Isn't greater depth of field essential for most of the landscape photography? Landscape are often shot at f/8 and smaller. And the landscape is rarely running away, so longer exposure is not an issue." CreationDate="2010-12-11T22:28:57.273" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="6771" PostId="5637" Score="1" Text="@jetxee I think Shane was suggesting a wide angle (e.g. short focal length), not a wide aperture." CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:05:22.127" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6772" PostId="5638" Text="There is 70-300 f/4-5.6L IS? Isn't that 100-400mm?" CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:22:29.140" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6773" PostId="5649" Score="1" Text="You're very welcome. If you like those &quot;candid&quot;, natural shots, then you will want better AF for your portraits. For good AF, you really want an ultrasonic motor of some kind. They provide quiet, smooth and fast AF that will last for a long time. Purely gear based AF can be noisy, prone to problems, and usually is not as fast. Kit lenses, like the standard 18-55, usually do not have ultrasonic AF. For landscape, this really isn't an issue...slow AF will do as manual focus will usually be better. For portraits, you should look into wide lenses (f/1.8 at least), and higher ISO. --&gt;" CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:27:50.360" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6774" PostId="5649" Score="1" Text="If you really want to nail those candid shots, then my best recommendation is this: Find a good mid-range body (like the Canon 60D, or if you can afford it, the 7D), and get a fast lens, like a 50mm f/1.4. A mid-range body WILL offer you some benefits that I sort of ignored before. One of them is good ISO performance at higher settings. The 7D can get great shots at ISO 1600 or 3200 without much noise. Another thing I ignored about camera bodies was the AF control systems...again, the Canon 7D has a FANTASTIC AF system that will GREATLY help you get those spur of the moment shots." CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:30:12.493" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6775" PostId="5650" Text="Aye, the 100-400 is definitely my go-to lens for wildlife and birds. I should also note that it also seconds as my second-most-used landscape lens. Telephoto landscape is great fun, and you can get some very intriguing shots that are just not possible with a wide-angle lens. " CreationDate="2010-12-11T23:36:21.180" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6776" PostId="5638" Text="@che - it's the brand new L lens" CreationDate="2010-12-12T00:25:49.843" UserId="142" />
  <row Id="6777" PostId="5654" Text="Great, thanks! According to http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-umbrella-adapters.html, I will need an **umbrella stand adapter**, too. Could you recommend a good (but cheap) one as well? Thanks so much!" CreationDate="2010-12-12T00:31:55.787" UserId="74" />
  <row Id="6778" PostId="5659" Text="+1 great answer." CreationDate="2010-12-12T01:09:44.160" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6779" PostId="5601" Text="Matt has it nailed...once you create a color range selection, you can either cut the selection and paste it, which would put the gold hand into a new layer. Or, you can invert the selection, and hit delete, which will eliminate the black and leave only the gold behind. You could then create a pure black layer behind that, or use the hand on a variety of backgrounds. If you put the hand on another type of background, best to use a blending mode that blends out black (like multiply). " CreationDate="2010-12-12T03:45:22.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6780" PostId="5659" Score="1" Text="FWIW, I think Ken Rockwell isn't too off base here. The Japan Camera Inspection Institute (which, as I understand it, manufacturers take seriously) allows +/- 1 GV from a metered reading. And of course there's not much point in quoting on the minus side." CreationDate="2010-12-12T05:21:43.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6781" PostId="5655" Text="an alternative is the 300 F4 with a 1.4x. I use that combo. An advantage over the 400 F5.6 is that you get both focal lengths, AND you get IS. WhenI'm shooting handheld, I use the 100-400. when I'm shoting on a tripod, I tend to use the 300 + 1.4x.and you're right, the prime is sharper, but less flexible. " CreationDate="2010-12-12T07:41:16.073" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="6782" PostId="5644" Score="4" Text="I like your idea to review my own photo gallery (with 10k+ photos). I just saw couple of collections from my bike travels and very impressed from them. OMG, I even don't remember these pictures I did few years ago! Thanks." CreationDate="2010-12-12T09:32:34.003" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6783" PostId="5620" Text="Very good idea! Thanks. Changing the subject of interest is good not only to wake up the muse, but even to enhance a field of view." CreationDate="2010-12-12T09:34:50.537" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6784" PostId="5619" Score="1" Text="A project, you are absolutely right! That's what probably I need. I accepted an answer from '''koiyu''' because he explained it in more detail. But thank you!" CreationDate="2010-12-12T09:38:26.777" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6785" PostId="5618" Text="Very good selfmotivation story, +1. But I'm not planning to come back to university ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-12T09:40:27.680" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6786" PostId="5624" Text="It's an option, +1! :) But may be for the future. Because The New Year holidays are coming, snow is falling and it's not a time to miss this period. Thanks" CreationDate="2010-12-12T09:43:15.883" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="6787" PostId="5652" Text="Nikon is basically an equivalent Canon alternative by the way." CreationDate="2010-12-12T11:42:56.693" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6788" PostId="5637" Text="The 50D is great and probably rather cheap now. I have one and it's fantastic." CreationDate="2010-12-12T11:43:44.693" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6789" PostId="5646" Text="But don't be fooled into buying more body than you need. I got over the kit lenses very quickly and quickly discovered the limitations. Slower AF, limiting aperture size, chromatic aberrations and distortion." CreationDate="2010-12-12T11:45:49.357" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6790" PostId="5659" Score="3" Text="Wouldn't a Watt-second be a joule? Watts is joules per second." CreationDate="2010-12-12T11:48:21.117" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6791" PostId="1148" Score="1" Text="The clarkvision reference you give uses a target with a dynamic range of 10.6 stops. Unsurprisingly,it cannot measure anything with a greater dynamic range, making film and digital look quite similar. For another look at the subject consider this reference http://archive.bigben.id.au/tutorials/360/technical/hdri/index.html . Here the author finds that Fuji Realia has a dynamic range of 15 stops." CreationDate="2010-12-12T14:12:22.590" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6792" PostId="2021" Text="Robert: question: &quot;should&quot; a user do this, or &quot;should&quot; it merely be encouraged? Since answers can also be marked as community wiki, it strikes me that merely making the suggestion in a comment, or else adding a wiki answer, would be a &quot;better&quot; (to my mind, at least) way to go about this. I say this for several reasons, one just being that for me, I prefer to see the question separately from the answer(s)... Even if having all the answers as one for questions like this is helpful. Alternately: what's the motivation for converting someone's question on their behalf?" CreationDate="2010-12-12T16:59:12.213" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6793" PostId="5663" Score="2" Text="I disagree with the premise that *any* one camera model is &quot;*the*&quot; answer. It's fine to list specific models that meet the requirements, even if you only know of one for the list. Better to declare the reasons it/they are a good fit, though, so that someone can evaluate things for themselves, especially if viewing the answer some time later, when perhaps the listed camera(s) are no longer available!" CreationDate="2010-12-12T17:04:42.007" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6794" PostId="5659" Text="one other thing to be aware of, especially with lower-end strobes (I know, for example, that the Vivitar 285HV does this; I haven't tested a 580EX -- and perhaps this even applies with studio units??) is that it's possible for different firings of the flash to offer different amounts of light, especially if you're shooting in rapid succession, and increasingly so the higher power you have set. I *think* some of the higher-end units have ways to avoid this (firing at the same intensity or not at all), and I'm fairly certain that some units at least do a better job of being uniform than others." CreationDate="2010-12-12T17:22:39.683" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6795" PostId="5659" Text="@Evan +1, great answer.  But why would a lumen, which apparently measures *human* visual perception, be appropriate for an *electronic sensor*?  For a sensor with linear response and equal sensitivity across the visible spectrum, it seems we should be interested in actual light flux without any adjustment for our vision." CreationDate="2010-12-12T18:05:53.420" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6796" PostId="5664" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3730/precaution-for-taking-a-camera-into-humid-conditions" CreationDate="2010-12-12T18:17:48.030" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6797" PostId="5643" Text="Same experience here with the Sigma 120-400mm." CreationDate="2010-12-12T18:57:32.893" UserId="2168" />
  <row Id="6798" PostId="5645" Text="This is very true.  I went through compact, bridge, low-end slr, medium end slr, and then finally high-end slr (d300) in order to find a camera that met my needs.  I would've saved a lot of money just going to the final product..." CreationDate="2010-12-12T20:18:01.027" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6799" PostId="5628" Text="@seanmc &amp; @Itai  - thanks, its looks like the money would better spent on lenses. My rational for a new body was really on age i was thinking the d80 was getting a bit long in the tooth. &#xA;So what lenses should I consider ?" CreationDate="2010-12-12T20:51:17.833" UserId="2603" />
  <row Id="6800" PostId="5664" Text="I asked another question along these lines here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2379/special-care-for-my-canon-in-the-alps" CreationDate="2010-12-12T20:51:56.833" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6801" PostId="5655" Text="It is nice that you get both focal lengths and IS but you lose a noticeable amount of sharpness and a dramatic amount of focusing speed, at that point I'd suggest just getting the 100-400.  The 400 is sharper (slightly) and focuses faster (slightly) than the 300 by itself let alone w/the 1.4x TC, its scary how sharp/fast the 400 is.  And yes, I own both and did side by side measurebation :)" CreationDate="2010-12-12T21:19:29.697" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6802" PostId="5664" Text="another reference: http://www.fotohacker.com/2007/12/07/taking-pictures-in-the-winter-cold/" CreationDate="2010-12-12T21:52:49.060" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6803" PostId="5652" Text="agreed, but he specifically mentioned he was considering pentax or canon, and so I didn't want to complicate the discussion... " CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:00:28.977" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="6804" PostId="5567" Text="Thanks AJ. I did wonder if it was supposed to be a poor rendering of a face, but the other answers suggest not, because it is square on some brands." CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:12:10.867" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="6805" PostId="5582" Text="Thanks Matt. I did wonder if the icon represented the controls on some old piece of equipment (enlarger for colour negatives?) That was one reason for posting it here: I think there are enough people with an interest in historical photography equipment to recognise it." CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:15:39.790" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="6806" PostId="5573" Text="Very useful to know. Thank you. I have updated the question appropriately." CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:16:09.663" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="6807" PostId="5574" Text="Interesting idea, Sebastien. Thank you. I can see the triangles in the caliper cursors, but they are oriented differently in the icon. If a graphic designer wanted to represent calipers, I am not sure they would end up with that icon. " CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:20:11.130" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="6808" PostId="5583" Text="I have accepted this as the answer, because it strikes me as the most plausible. However, I don't *know* if it is correct. Thanks André." CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:21:44.483" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="6809" PostId="4647" Text="I just tried NiMH. Same results." CreationDate="2010-12-12T22:48:17.013" UserId="1972" />
  <row Id="6810" PostId="5665" Score="3" Text="As a side note for whomever voted my response down: down votes without comment do nothing to help the site or the quality of responses." CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:00:52.467" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6811" PostId="5642" Text="Spot on. There's a lot of great ways to spend money in photography, but a modestly priced lightstand and umbrella will serve you just fine." CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:09:56.887" UserId="679" />
  <row Id="6812" PostId="5659" Text="Turns out I was right. A Watt-second is just a joule which is a more quantitative measurement." CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:22:31.310" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6813" PostId="5414" Text="Why is the snow tag worrying you. This question is about snow photos..." CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:25:45.830" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6814" PostId="5665" Score="1" Text="@John it wasn't me, but that's not true. Down votes without comments have most of the effects of down votes with comments. You get a lower reputation, and all that that entails, and your answer is moved down relative to the other answers." CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:35:47.050" UserId="2094" />
  <row Id="6815" PostId="5659" Text="@Nick That's correct. Strobes probably use the term watt-seconds because people are more familiar with watts." CreationDate="2010-12-12T23:46:20.630" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6816" PostId="5659" Text="@whuber Because the range of wavelengths called &quot;visible&quot; is defined by human visual perception. Our electronic sensors, films, printing techniques, and displays are all designed with human perception in mind. Red, Green and Blue are the primary colors of light because those are the center wavelengths of each of the different cone cells humans have. Without compensating for what humans can see, you would measure all of the infrared, ultraviolet, X-ray, radio frequency, and other types of radiation coming from the flash. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_flux" CreationDate="2010-12-13T00:12:30.220" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6817" PostId="5665" Score="4" Text="@Sparr - I'm not especially worried about, but I tend to disagree with you, see the FAQ for some info on that. If there's something wrong in the answer and somebody noticed it, I'd like to understand what is wrong. That helps me and it helps others. I'm not going to be offended by that if there truly is a mistake, though I may dispute it if I don't think there is." CreationDate="2010-12-13T00:30:26.900" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6818" PostId="5659" Text="@Evan You seem to have read too much into my question.  It did not concern what the visible spectrum is; it only asked about the logic of using a human-based criterion for a non-human sensor.  But an adequate answer is buried there: you claim that the sensors attempt to emulate human vision (which is true).  However, to the extent to which sensors do not respond like human eyes (and none of them do exactly), it seems more logical--and more accurate--to measure light output in terms of the *sensor* response, not in terms of our visual response.  The sensor creates the photo, not the eye." CreationDate="2010-12-13T00:39:55.080" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6819" PostId="5664" Text="Lots of good links here. Thank you!" CreationDate="2010-12-13T01:13:27.257" UserId="2621" />
  <row Id="6820" PostId="5665" Score="1" Text="@Sparr: I agree with John. Downvoting a non-CW, non-Meta answer is generally taken to mean that something is wrong with the answer. So it is useful to leave a comment stating what exactly is wrong." CreationDate="2010-12-13T01:15:26.553" UserId="2621" />
  <row Id="6821" PostId="5659" Text="@whuber - It's important to remember that some of these came about before digital. Also, if film and digital are to capture what we see, then they need to respond to light with a close approximation of human response." CreationDate="2010-12-13T01:33:13.517" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6822" PostId="5414" Text="I worry that it is too localized to be a tag. I like to think that tags should be applicable to no less than 5 questions, but I don't know if this will ever find 5. Of course I don't mind the tag, I made it, but I don't want people to think I am goofing around making frivolous tags." CreationDate="2010-12-13T02:59:43.710" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="6823" PostId="2463" Text="Good answer with everything except Paypal... Paypal is a fraud and they regularly screw users for their own interests. I avoid using it at all costs, I did before but I got my turn on the wrong end of the stick. Maybe the don't do that in the US, I don't know but I regularly here terrible experiences with them here in Canada." CreationDate="2010-12-13T03:36:12.507" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6824" PostId="5672" Text="Is the Raw version available for some of these? It's hard to tell from your samples because the resize effectively took out any artifacts from the netting. Also, don't give up on the first, some desaturation with some further bluring may create an interesting shot, perhaps some form of abstract." CreationDate="2010-12-13T03:47:28.507" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6825" PostId="5628" Text="I see that besides the 50mm, you were aiming to cover a large range of focal-lengths with little regards to image quality. Honestly, I always do the opposite, buying the best lens I can, knowing that I'd rather have an awesome picture than more low-quality ones. So, my suggestion is to scan through your files and figure out which focal-length you use the most. Then, get a high-quality lens for that." CreationDate="2010-12-13T03:50:44.683" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6826" PostId="5665" Text="I think Sparr has a good point: some people may simply prefer the presentation of another answer, though whether or not an answer should be downvoted in addition to the other being upvoted is a separate question.  " CreationDate="2010-12-13T04:20:34.763" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6827" PostId="5673" Text="I've also noticed that my counter doesn't always decrease, even when it's getting close to the end of the card (20 or less remaining)" CreationDate="2010-12-13T05:28:47.170" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6828" PostId="5676" Score="3" Text="Do you have any problems with the 18-200 being too heavy? That's the only strong reason I can see to get a prime lens for this. Otherwise spend the cash on a tripod, or some good walking shoes, a comfortable camera bag/backpack, etc..." CreationDate="2010-12-13T06:46:20.200" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6829" PostId="3732" Text="I'm interested in the weather sealing specs of cameras — where did you get this value of 10mm/hr rainfall for the 5Dii? I'm trying to get some more specific details on different bodies/lenses/brands/whatever..." CreationDate="2010-12-13T06:50:57.703" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6831" PostId="1148" Text="Thanks for the link, labnut. Useful info. " CreationDate="2010-12-13T08:22:04.867" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6832" PostId="3732" Text="@drfrogsplat I can't find the source for that right now, so I'll remove for the moment -- the closest reference from canon is that the 5D2 is &quot;EOS 5D Mark II now has dust and water resistance that is almost equal to that of the EOS-1N&quot; in [a white paper on the Canon site](http://www.usa.canon.com/uploadedimages/FCK/Image/White%20Papers/EOS%2050D%20and%205D%20Mark%20II%20WP2.pdf)" CreationDate="2010-12-13T10:09:29.327" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6833" PostId="5674" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2585/21" CreationDate="2010-12-13T10:10:55.743" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6834" PostId="3732" Text="that's a shame, i was hoping i'd finally stumbled on some proper weather resistance specs (;" CreationDate="2010-12-13T12:02:33.317" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="6835" PostId="5672" Text="Yes, I have Raw versions of all the shots." CreationDate="2010-12-13T13:17:05.517" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="6836" PostId="5659" Text="@John Actually, films (especially B&amp;W) tend to deviate from human visual responses more strongly than digital sensors do.  The distinction between the film's sensitivity and our sensitivity used to be important.  One's choice of film was part of the art of making a photo precisely because film does *not* capture what we see, but under the control of a competent photographer it can capture what we *imagine*." CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:08:26.587" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6837" PostId="5686" Text="Well, I already checked the index of this book for &quot;Rule of Thirds&quot;, but found nothing, so I thought it is not what I want!" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:26:38.100" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6838" PostId="5686" Text="Some of the comments were discouraging: &quot;A small word of advice though. This book is not purely intended to teach basic rules of photography (although the writer explains topics such as the rule of thirds and HDR) but it rather builds and expands on some existing knowledge and fine granulates the art of photography through composition and design with the utmost intent to help the user develop the skills to shoot great images.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-13T15:44:11.370" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6839" PostId="3732" Text="Honestly this is one area where too many lawyers were probably involved. Nikon for example states 'the camera is sealed against moisture and casual humidity'. That is really not confidence-inspiring. Some manufacturer's used to specify mm of rain per hour but I have seen no such specs for a while. I can vouch though that I have rinsed a Pentax K-7 with DA* lens under tap water for two minutes or so without problems." CreationDate="2010-12-13T16:41:46.270" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6840" PostId="5679" Score="1" Text="+1 for the advice about multi-image stitched panoramas. This is a truly powerful method of taking photos of landscapes. I find myself working with a focal length of 50 to 70 mm when creating panoramas and I use Hugin to stitch the images together, which it does with an effectiveness that seems nothing short of magical." CreationDate="2010-12-13T17:01:47.000" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6841" PostId="5689" Score="13" Text="It's a decent lens - assuming it's in good condition, my guess is that you're simply charging more money than folks are willing to pay for a used lens.  I also question whether this is on-topic since this isn't a question about photography or photo editing." CreationDate="2010-12-13T17:24:44.990" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6842" PostId="5689" Text="There could be a number of reasons, (not advertised to the right people, not got the right price, etc.) but you've not provided sufficient detail to allow a full answer. As currently worded, this appears to be off topic (I'm surprised that @ahockley didn't vote for closure)." CreationDate="2010-12-13T17:52:53.227" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6843" PostId="5447" Text="However, if only part of the rainbow is visible to begin with, a polarizer should be able to make that part pop a bit more." CreationDate="2010-12-13T18:00:13.773" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="6844" PostId="2463" Text="@Itai: paypal is kind of like the best in the worst situation. Paypal sucks, but they *do* accept creditcards, which have very string consumer protection policies. I advocate using Paypal, because that is usually the only way to pay for an auction via creditcard." CreationDate="2010-12-13T18:14:26.693" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="6845" PostId="5686" Text="While I can't recommend this book enough, I don't think it's intended to be the sort of encyclopedia-of-schools-of-thought that the questioner seems to be looking for." CreationDate="2010-12-13T18:26:27.080" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6846" PostId="5689" Text="I have the 70-200mm f/2.8L, and it is hands down my favorite lens (I have a Canon 24-105mm f/4L, a Canon 50mm f/1.4 and a Canon 16-35mm f/2.8L, all nice lenses, but can't touch the 70-200mm)." CreationDate="2010-12-13T18:29:06.563" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6847" PostId="5685" Text="It sounds to me like you're really looking for a &quot;Complete Encyclopedia of Visual Composition in Photography&quot;, not just *a* good reference about composition." CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:03:33.117" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6848" PostId="5672" Score="1" Text="What's more interesting to me: How can you avoid the netting (achieve a shot similar to the last?). I guess by shooting wide open, though I couldn't check since the images don't have exif anymore. The AF problem can of course be solved by manual focus." CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:27:02.217" UserId="2522" />
  <row Id="6849" PostId="5693" Text="Great to hear! Have any recommendation on a hood?" CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:31:50.377" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="6850" PostId="5692" Text="50mm f/1.7 is a fine lens, if you want some user opinions on it, pentax forums has a lens database here: http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/" CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:47:54.213" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6851" PostId="5685" Text="You could go a long way (and save money) by typing each of these things into Google Images.  That's how I've learned about Rule of Thirds, Balance, etc.  (I'm by no means an expert photographer, but my results improved 100% from my first outing to my next by just reading http://kenrockwell.com/tech/composition.htm, found through Google Images)" CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:53:56.480" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6852" PostId="5638" Text="@Daniel: Oh, good to know, looks nice :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-13T21:24:05.447" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6853" PostId="5659" Text="@Evan: Thank you for detailed explanation. Is it possible to find lumen specs for any small flash at all? I don't really need to compare these specific models, what interests me more is how battery vs. studio units fare in general." CreationDate="2010-12-13T21:42:05.583" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="6854" PostId="5693" Text="Depends on your preference, I use a pretty generic rubber hood for my 50mm and it does OK at really off-axis flare but it isn't the best (and doesn't help much for protecting the front element)." CreationDate="2010-12-13T22:15:32.743" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="6855" PostId="5696" Text="+1 Good example." CreationDate="2010-12-13T23:21:17.173" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6856" PostId="5678" Text="This is a good suggestion.  Although the netting spacing is uneven, it should still show up clearly in a power spectrum: it will just be a spread-out peak rather than a sharp one.  FFT solutions can do amazing things with such interference." CreationDate="2010-12-13T23:26:42.243" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="6857" PostId="5672" Text="Even the last picture has the grid pattern in it, it's just harder to see.  I found that it worked best at full zoom (200mm F2.8) and focused far away." CreationDate="2010-12-14T00:22:26.770" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="6858" PostId="5698" Score="2" Text="You've hit a very interesting use case that I think most camera manufacturers don't consider (or just don't care about).  I'd be very curious to see the answers to this question, especially how to handle digital storage if she has no computer to look at 'negatives'." CreationDate="2010-12-14T02:02:08.627" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6859" PostId="5678" Text="I have done this kind of fix myself, and it's the right call.  It's the standard go-to solution I learned in grad school to fix repeated pattern interference in images (either from degraded satellite signals or a some other regular grid that appears in the image).  You should see spikes in the power spectrum that, once removed, should remove the grid." CreationDate="2010-12-14T02:12:39.707" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="6860" PostId="5672" Text="@ziggystar, if you focus beyond the netting, it will reduce the impact, but not eliminate it. You can do the same with your eyes, though it's more subconscious when it happens." CreationDate="2010-12-14T02:36:44.740" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6861" PostId="5699" Score="1" Text="Ergonomics... An important feature, perhaps especially so in a case like this! Kudos for pointin that out. " CreationDate="2010-12-14T02:37:02.237" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6862" PostId="5673" Text="@Evan Krall - I've seen the same effect, it really depends on the ISO I'm shooting at and so most of the times shows up when I'm using TAv (shutter/aperture priority on Pentax or manual with auto ISO on other brands) mode." CreationDate="2010-12-14T02:39:56.563" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6863" PostId="5697" Text="Wow, that's really cool. Thanks so much!" CreationDate="2010-12-14T03:16:01.650" UserId="74" />
  <row Id="6864" PostId="2463" Text="@Alan - You should check the wording, or maybe it has changed.Many credit card benefits do not work with Paypal because you do not pay for the item via the CC. You pay with paypal and Paypal charges the balance (depending on what you paypal balance is) to the credit card, not the item itself. Regardless of wording, I consider Paypal a fraud with no respect for buyer's money." CreationDate="2010-12-14T04:35:09.467" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6865" PostId="5702" Text="The SX-series is the best one to learn photography on the cheap. If the question didn't ask for a rugged camera, I would have suggested one of those. I know some young kids you managed with one of those. Then again, my eldest daughter did not. She got a camera at 6 and it fell to the ground 3 days later, the lens barrel shattered. We were told it was more expensive to fix than buy a new camera. So, it depends on the kid." CreationDate="2010-12-14T04:38:42.913" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6866" PostId="5650" Text="I think you forgot the L in the lens name. That's a critical distinction." CreationDate="2010-12-14T06:00:31.020" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6867" PostId="5640" Text="Actually.  No go on this solution either.  It &quot;remembers&quot; without me.  Any way to clear that memory in a straightforward way?" CreationDate="2010-12-14T06:25:59.317" UserId="2605" />
  <row Id="6868" PostId="2463" Text="@Itai: Right, but your card is charged by paypal, which means you can dispute the charge (issue a chargeback) provided you believe the seller did not fulfill their duties to you. It's part of *every* merchant agreement that the CC company can/will take the money back, while an investigation is pending. I can see why you feel Paypal is a fraud, their policies don't offer much by way of protecting the buyer or seller, but I do think compared to the alternative (cash, money order, check), paypal is the only way to pay for ebay items (using a CC of course)." CreationDate="2010-12-14T06:48:06.533" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="6869" PostId="5685" Text="@mattdm, that would be even better ;-) But no, I just want a book containing the basic composition rules in details." CreationDate="2010-12-14T07:39:05.463" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6870" PostId="5685" Text="@HiredMind, it is not about learning the rules, I already know most of them. But I am writing a paper and I must have a good reference to cite." CreationDate="2010-12-14T07:39:52.327" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6871" PostId="5686" Text="@mattdm, why don't you recommend this book? For me, the comment I quoted above made me feel it is not about the basics. Do you have another reason why not to recommend it?" CreationDate="2010-12-14T07:41:21.423" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6872" PostId="5701" Text="I checked the book on Aamzon, but there is no table of contents :(" CreationDate="2010-12-14T07:54:47.843" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6873" PostId="5688" Text="The problem with this book is that I don't find it on Amazon or Google Scholar, so I can't cite it in my paper." CreationDate="2010-12-14T07:59:02.023" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6874" PostId="5687" Text="This one seems to be good, but there is still no table of contents :( Do you have the table of contents to share? And are you sure it contains the basic composition rules with details?!" CreationDate="2010-12-14T08:12:06.587" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6875" PostId="5591" Text="request for clarification: You're asking about Windows 7, *because* LR runs faster on Macs?  I guess that just means you don't want Mac answers, because they may not reflect your reality?  In case you mean anything different, I thought I'd ask, here.  :)" CreationDate="2010-12-14T08:31:46.477" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6876" PostId="5679" Score="1" Text="Isn't it true, that creating *stitched panoramas* requires not so wide lenses because you need less distorted perspective. Because the wider you go the more distort you get... With 50mm (×1.6 for DSLR) it should be fine. But not with 18mm or so." CreationDate="2010-12-14T08:50:50.033" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="6877" PostId="5701" Score="2" Text="Google, or more specifically Google Books, is your friend." CreationDate="2010-12-14T11:34:47.880" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6878" PostId="2631" Text="I've seen a paper once where the authors applied JPEG compression to 12-bit RAW data and claimed reduced noise while retaining detail and of course reduced file size. However, *any* lossy compression is going to destroy data (hence *lossy*). The camera manufacturers would be nuts if they would compress their RAW formats with JPEG." CreationDate="2010-12-14T11:36:29.960" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="6879" PostId="5698" Text="Tell her to get a B/W film camera, a bundle of Ilford HP5 and FP4, and then develop her own. Retro FTW." CreationDate="2010-12-14T12:49:36.110" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="6880" PostId="3476" Score="1" Text="There could be a UV or more filters that are &quot;pushing&quot; the hood a bit forward and causing the vignetting" CreationDate="2010-12-14T12:50:21.993" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6881" PostId="5689" Score="3" Text="Everything sells at the right price. If it's not selling, lower the price until it does, or until you reach the point where you'd rather keep it." CreationDate="2010-12-14T12:56:40.867" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="6882" PostId="3476" Text="@t3mujin: Yes, that is also a possibility. In a similar way, if the filter is mounted on top of the hood mount the hood could cause the the filter to block the view, rather than blocking the view itself." CreationDate="2010-12-14T13:00:27.383" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="6883" PostId="5686" Score="1" Text="I do recommend it, very strongly. But it's not a list-oriented reference. It contains a lot of excellent information and helpful ways to think about making photographs, but it's not &quot;every composition rule [one] can think of&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-14T13:03:40.083" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6884" PostId="5640" Text="Well.. I guess the best thing to do now is to store your older pics in a separate folder." CreationDate="2010-12-14T13:26:02.287" UserId="2552" />
  <row Id="6885" PostId="5491" Text="I just tried the Photoshop RAW engine.  Wow.  Really, just wow.  Where did all the noise go?  I think that could be the deciding factor." CreationDate="2010-12-14T14:19:18.253" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="6886" PostId="5591" Text="Because I _believe_ it runs faster on Macs. It might still be interesting to know about Mac experiences (for other curious people) but the person sitting next to me is on a Mac and LR runs seemingly faster there." CreationDate="2010-12-14T14:51:37.093" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6887" PostId="5685" Score="2" Text="Forgive me, but this is beginning to sound like you want someone to have done your homework for you.  If your paper needs references, then isn't it your job to go and find them?  There are lots of suggestions below which will make your job easier, but you can't expect to have it handed to you on a plate.  I would follow @John Cavan's suggestion start with Google Books.  " CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:00:35.767" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6888" PostId="5685" Text="@Finch, you made a good point, but it doesn't apply well to me. My work is not related to the art side of photographic rules, so I don't need to buy ten books and study them well. Rather, I just want to get some book to cite in my paper for people who are interested in the rules themselves. This is why I don't want to pay for books before being sure they will be useful to me, and most of the books suggested so far don't even have TOC on Amazon! Anyway, I will have to buy some of them, I have no other choice." CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:10:01.160" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="6889" PostId="5708" Score="1" Text="This should be asked as a new question rather than tacked on an existing, different one." CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:12:48.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6891" PostId="5677" Score="1" Text="Agreed - use a tripod!&#xA;But, Remember to turn off VR (when doing so)&#xA;If your camera body has a &quot;Mirror Up&quot; mode, you can also use this to further reduce camera shake (in combo with a good shutter release or remote)" CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:41:21.720" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="6892" PostId="5712" Score="4" Text="AFAIK the 5D _always_ shoots 14-bit RAW files, no exceptions. Only if you switch down to JPEG mode will you be able to shoot 8-bit images." CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:50:03.837" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6893" PostId="5457" Text="Maybe try submitting a bug report to Adobe? https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform" CreationDate="2010-12-14T15:52:54.457" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6894" PostId="5624" Score="1" Text="Have to agree here totally. Over the years I have repeatedly gone through similar up-and-down rhythm (currently going through a down-phase) - but in the end I always come back with more passion and vigor than before. I make sure to keep my mind busy doing _completely different creative projects_  so that when I do come back, I will hopefully have new ideas borrowed from the other arts." CreationDate="2010-12-14T16:00:52.950" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6895" PostId="5712" Score="2" Text="Kate, what are you using for post processing? This is likely where you're going from 16 to 8." CreationDate="2010-12-14T16:04:52.600" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6896" PostId="5703" Score="1" Text="That is exactly how my own mother-in-law uses her digital point-and-shoot." CreationDate="2010-12-14T16:34:15.237" UserId="741" />
  <row Id="6897" PostId="5714" Score="2" Text="I've had P&amp;S from Canon and Kodak in the same price range of each other ($150ish) within the last year and there's a HUGE difference between the two, camera and picture quality.  Perhaps you're not considering Kodak a major manufacturer, but every P&amp;S at a given price level is not equivalent really.  The Kodak Z915 was nothing compared to the Canon SX120IS for a 10-20 difference." CreationDate="2010-12-14T16:36:02.173" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="6898" PostId="5714" Score="1" Text="@rfusca, interesting.  Not sure if I was consciously including Kodak or not.  Many buyers agonise over which camera to buy, but what they're really worried about is getting a duff one.  I'm trying to encourage readers that they really don't have anything to worry about if they stick to well-known manufacturers.  Certainly, Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, Sony, ... are solid bets.  " CreationDate="2010-12-14T17:05:08.297" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="6899" PostId="5491" Text="Yeah, Adobe's raw processing is second to none these days. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-14T17:28:32.317" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6900" PostId="5703" Text="Write-once cards are very expensive, used for forensics and so on. Not appropriate here. Cheap 1GB SD cards might be more appropriate. She can keep a dozen or more and you can back them up when you visit." CreationDate="2010-12-14T17:37:40.887" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="6901" PostId="5691" Text="The going rate on ebay is about $750 from what I can see." CreationDate="2010-12-14T17:48:25.590" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="6902" PostId="95" Text="This is the _really big_ difference btw the 1.4/1.2 and 1.8 aperture lenses." CreationDate="2010-12-14T19:22:18.910" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6905" PostId="5702" Text="Depends on the kid for one (at 12, I think most kids should be mature enough to handle a camera).  And on luck/bad luck for another.  You can be as mature as you want, accidents *do* happen." CreationDate="2010-12-14T19:52:48.293" UserId="2666" />
  <row Id="6906" PostId="95" Text="Not to mention the difference in aperture blade count. The 50 1.8 has nice images (for it's price), but it's bokeh is trash." CreationDate="2010-12-14T20:33:11.050" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="6907" PostId="5679" Score="2" Text="Also saying '50mm isn't wide enough for landscapes' is misinformation.  Its not wide enough for a single _wide angle_ photograph or a 'vista' but I regularly use my 135mm f2 for landscape photography, either as a single image or a few stitched.  In fact, my &quot;going out landscapin'&quot; bag is a 5DmkII, 24mm TSE and 70-200 f2.8 IS." CreationDate="2010-12-14T21:17:30.543" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6908" PostId="5724" Score="1" Text="This isn't really addressing the question, its more of a comment on landscape photography in general." CreationDate="2010-12-14T21:21:01.803" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6909" PostId="80" Text="The D50 has an internal focusing motor, no problem." CreationDate="2010-12-14T21:27:06.353" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="6910" PostId="5706" Text="That isn't really an answer to sunpech's question so you should probably have put your question either as a new question or as a comment to the question or as a comment to an existing answer. What kit lens came with your D5000?" CreationDate="2010-12-14T22:06:34.147" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="6911" PostId="5714" Score="1" Text="100% agree with rfusca. I have the privilege of evaluating digital cameras and it is true that in the point-and-shoot segment differences are extremely pronounced. Even by the same manufacturer, models with similar number and perform quite differently. It does not stop at quality either, speed and interface are very different too." CreationDate="2010-12-14T22:20:01.377" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6912" PostId="5677" Text="It should be noted that the wide angle is not the only useful angle for landscapes. Telephoto focal lengths can also be used to great effect in landscape photography. See my answer for a link to an article by Andy Mumford on the use of telephoto in landscape photography." CreationDate="2010-12-14T23:20:30.143" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6913" PostId="5716" Text="Nothing beat a visit to your friendly neighborhood photo store.  The model that fits is the FX-5." CreationDate="2010-12-15T00:58:00.490" UserId="2168" />
  <row Id="6914" PostId="5700" Text="If you want to search by feature rather than specification (which is more suited for less advanced needs) you can use Neocamera's feature search: http://www.neocamera.com/search_camera.php?by=feature (BTW, There is also a full specification search as well: http://www.neocamera.com/search_camera.php )" CreationDate="2010-12-15T01:18:15.730" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6915" PostId="5688" Score="1" Text="@Rafid: Why wouldn't you be able to cite it? It is still on the internet, an eBook with its own page even...would think that would be ideal for citation. " CreationDate="2010-12-15T01:40:24.083" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6916" PostId="5658" Text="Welcome to photo.SE, @drewk!" CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:17:34.777" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6917" PostId="5700" Score="3" Text="+1 for choosing a brand that you're familiar with and can help with; that matters a lot in this case." CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:25:41.990" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="6918" PostId="47" Text="The Canon 50mm f/1.8 cheapo in particular has some pretty shocking bokeh at times." CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:47:51.353" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="6919" PostId="5019" Text="I think it's way too vague. Since plugins can be pretty much *anything*, this boils down to &quot;please list some software&quot;. I think it'd be more useful to think of some categories and have individual questions. " CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:36:47.337" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6920" PostId="5658" Text="@Reid: Thanks!!!" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:58:50.133" UserId="2319" />
  <row Id="6921" PostId="5727" Score="2" Text="I think you misunderstood. The lossless JPEG rotation I am looking for does not uncompress or re-compress at all; rather it rotates the bit blocks so that the orientation changes with no change otherwise to the image. What you are suggesting is to resave the image at a lower compression, which does not solve the issue. Thanks tho!" CreationDate="2010-12-15T04:03:02.800" UserId="2319" />
  <row Id="6922" PostId="5729" Text="Are you sure about that bit about LR making sure photo files exist? I have archived some of my photos that were in my libraries, and LR never seemed to slow down on startup. It would also show all the thumbnails generated for the missing libraries, and only check for existence once you actually tried to work with a missing image." CreationDate="2010-12-15T04:40:40.110" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6923" PostId="5729" Score="1" Text="Well, it may just be loading the libraries. It certainly takes a few minutes, and the subfolders in the catalog come up one-by-one (the image count gets populated, I mean)." CreationDate="2010-12-15T04:42:21.413" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6924" PostId="5659" Text="I have *very* little trust in Ken Rockwell's recommendation. Ever since I read his opinions about RAW vs JPEG, I can't really put any faith in anything he thinks." CreationDate="2010-12-15T04:49:53.103" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6925" PostId="5708" Text="I wish there is a scanner but I couldn't find one. Let us know if you come across any." CreationDate="2010-12-15T05:42:35.093" UserId="2207" />
  <row Id="6926" PostId="5731" Score="9" Text="Try not to do this: http://i.imgur.com/WKxyY.jpg" CreationDate="2010-12-15T05:59:41.340" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="6927" PostId="5698" Text="With the price of memory cards today, she can even keep her copies in them and buy more memory as needed." CreationDate="2010-12-15T06:58:19.837" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="6928" PostId="5728" Text="Good answer. It's quite true what you are saying about Apple and their time on their hands to create something unique. Of course I'm aware of coding something myself - but it will never run as smooth (and look as good) as the video shown on Apple's site and it is actually supposed to be usable by family members, e.g. put in a DVD watch slideshow. I just know that I saw this &quot;fly over map&quot; feature in some video editing program to create the famous &quot;Indiana Jones travels from Egypt to India to Australia&quot; animations." CreationDate="2010-12-15T09:51:48.627" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="6929" PostId="5732" Text="Nice example for using the `GMaps` API, but not what I am looking for. You could go to http://www.panoramio.com/map/ and achieve the same effect. I really am looking for a **slideshow** as in: hit play and watch how you travel from one place on the map to the next while pictures are being served for your viewing pleasure." CreationDate="2010-12-15T09:59:59.263" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="6930" PostId="5034" Text="@John, What a lovely image." CreationDate="2010-12-15T10:01:59.050" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6931" PostId="5679" Text="@Robert Koritnik: Yes, with stitched panoramas it helps to use a low distortion lens. I have had excellent results with a Sigma F2 50mm macro lens which produces a low distortion image." CreationDate="2010-12-15T10:08:41.960" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6932" PostId="5727" Text="I tried to answer the topic: &quot;Is sips lossless when used for JPEG rotation?&quot; Maybe simple &quot;No&quot; would have sufficed, but I also wanted to tell why :-) I'm rather new to the OS X ecosystem, so I really couldn't give you any alternatives which would be Automator or command line based (just yet at least)." CreationDate="2010-12-15T10:22:56.000" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="6933" PostId="5658" Text="Similar question on Super User suggests using program jhead: http://superuser.com/questions/199564/batch-lossless-rotate-jpeg-in-osx" CreationDate="2010-12-15T10:30:18.583" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="6934" PostId="5034" Text="@labnut - Thanks! It's one of my favourites." CreationDate="2010-12-15T11:31:17.440" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6935" PostId="5703" Score="2" Text="My sister-in-law doesn't use a computer - instead, each time she takes the camera in to get the pictures printed, she has them transferred to a CD at the same time.  Not sure if she then erases the prints, or if they do that for her, but I'm sure most places would handle that." CreationDate="2010-12-15T13:05:33.923" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="6936" PostId="5678" Text="That is a very useful link" CreationDate="2010-12-15T13:42:27.793" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6937" PostId="4213" Text="From the website: &quot;...a perfect companion to existing Digital Asset Management suites such as Adobe Lightroom or IDImager, helping users perform their initial accept/reject selection and rating much faster than before. Put in another way, you'll be done with reviewing/culling/rating with FPV Pro before Lightroom finished importing all the files and crunching the previews.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-15T14:02:51.823" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6938" PostId="4708" Text="Picasa is certainly simpler, almost to a fault. If you only need very basic edits, it's a great tool, however, you give up a lot of control over the edits." CreationDate="2010-12-15T15:10:16.260" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="6939" PostId="5676" Text="In general, for me, a fast 50mm was a great travel companion to the 18-200 VR.   It's well suited for use, when the 18-200mm falls short (low-light, Bokeh, etc) " CreationDate="2010-12-15T15:58:20.797" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="6940" PostId="24" Text="This was also discussed (for the nikon 50) here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5440/nikkor-50mm-f-1-8d-versus-f-1-4g/5480#5480" CreationDate="2010-12-15T16:28:48.337" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="6941" PostId="5703" Text="Thanks! I've updated the answer to make it more accurate given those comments." CreationDate="2010-12-15T16:41:46.017" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6942" PostId="5729" Text="@jrista - If you look carefully, even before you try to use an image, Lightroom makes a little icon appear on the upper-right corner of missing images when you are in the grid-view within the library module. I am not sure if it does this on folder open or on startup but I do know that it does something to each folder at startup and it does at least recompute the image count each time. Seems a little silly but it is clearly visible in the interface if you have the left folder pane opened." CreationDate="2010-12-15T16:47:28.663" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6943" PostId="5736" Score="2" Text="You should be able to download the software from here  http://www.canon-europe.com/Support/software/dpp/" CreationDate="2010-12-15T17:56:00.860" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6944" PostId="5685" Text="@Rafid, there are no &quot;rules&quot; - this is art.  And there likely is no definitive reference.  Any references you find will be regarded by some as the most respected book on the subject, and by others as total garbage.  I suspect the best that you're going to be able to do is give your reader a few dozen sites/books that give a general flavor of the &quot;rules&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-15T18:39:12.657" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="6945" PostId="5744" Text="Do you know how long had it been left in the sun?" CreationDate="2010-12-15T19:30:21.727" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6946" PostId="5736" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4880/21" CreationDate="2010-12-15T19:31:08.713" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6947" PostId="5741" Score="1" Text="It's a bit rough on the edges, but I have huge hopes for Darktable" CreationDate="2010-12-15T19:39:13.330" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="6948" PostId="5749" Text="I totally second moo.com. Great site, and their quality seems to be very high. They also offer a variety of business card styles, including half-height, or printed on unique types of cardstock or other materials." CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:40:51.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6949" PostId="5744" Score="4" Text="Is it sticky in the sense that the rubber/plastic itself is tacky, or is it sticky in the sense of there is something sticky on the lens? If it is the latter, it should be cleanable. If it is the former..." CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:43:02.067" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6950" PostId="5749" Text="+1 I love the Moo mini-cards (here is run I made in 2006: http://flic.kr/p/pxDv5). I made new runs since then. As Rowland said, you can print a 100 for example, with a different photo on each. I had a photo show with 30 pieces earlier this year, and printed a batch of Moo cards to leave at the show, with pics from the show itself. It was about $20, I reuse them when the show (or pieces of it) travels." CreationDate="2010-12-15T21:53:28.600" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="6951" PostId="5749" Text="While I appreciate the suggestion, the project is almost time sensitive and the card size could vary between runs.  A great suggestion, but not a solution." CreationDate="2010-12-15T21:54:25.757" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="6952" PostId="5747" Text="How widely do these sizes vary?" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:05:19.453" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="6953" PostId="5751" Score="1" Text="Verify this before you try it - I don't know if it's Camera Safe... but on other things, I've used isopropyl alcohol. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. I definitely wouldn't use it on a lens element (e.g. glass) and I'd be very careful not to let it get inside the lens, but used lightly on the outside (body/barrel) it might be okay.  Also, I would try it out first on a small spot (and with a lot of caution) and then wait. " CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:14:05.330" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="6954" PostId="3442" Text="What about 'shadows and highlights' (Photoshop)?" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:32:17.223" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="6955" PostId="5747" Text="since &quot;a capable local printer&quot; is an option, where's &quot;local&quot;?  Also, what OS are you running on?" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:32:43.680" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6956" PostId="5749" Text="For what it's worth, I've been only moderately happy with moo.com.  The convenience is wonderful, and the quality has been good, but I've had some results where the colors didn't seem quite spot-on.  They were close, though, and certainly passable to most folks... and the quality is high in other ways, and again, super convenient.  Just wanted to say something, lest someone expect absolute perfection and be sad to not get it.  :)" CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:35:36.813" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6957" PostId="5747" Text="@Rowland, can vary from business card size up to postcard size. @lindes I have osx, window xp, 7, or linux.  Nobody locally can give me the turn around I need [want]." CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:44:12.480" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="6958" PostId="5747" Text="I think my issue lies with the only print shop capable of printing my products tells me that their printer can't properly reproduce red.  They seem very uninterested in putting the effort into fixing the color issue.  It's not a color cast, it's just red is completely orange." CreationDate="2010-12-15T22:46:23.710" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="6960" PostId="894" Score="4" Text="Foveon based DSLR's from Sigma take IR images simply by removing the dust protector - in later model cameras you do not even need tools to remove and reinstall the protector, it was designed to be user-serviceable." CreationDate="2010-12-15T23:29:45.203" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="6961" PostId="977" Score="1" Text="Sigma is still shipping non-bayer sensor cameras, and will soon have one shipping with quite a lot of resolution...  " CreationDate="2010-12-15T23:31:33.657" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="6962" PostId="5729" Text="Interesting. Are you on Windows or Mac? And what do you mean by &quot;a long time to completely start&quot; ? 30 seconds? 5 minutes?" CreationDate="2010-12-16T00:36:27.973" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6963" PostId="4415" Text="+1 for burning twice and mailing.  Did that from Italy a few years ago when a 512Mb card was extravagant -- but one card's worth of pictures fit conveniently onto one CD.  The Apacer CP300 worked well for that.   And to be paranoid, I also copied the card onto an Archos mp3 player.   Then compared all three versions on return and didn't lose a single byte.  :p" CreationDate="2010-12-16T01:01:57.940" UserId="2689" />
  <row Id="6964" PostId="2585" Text="Also see this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5674/camera-suggestion-for-a-child" CreationDate="2010-12-16T02:03:33.683" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6965" PostId="5694" Text="Totally depends on the kids... or rather the parents ;) but that's a discussion for another SE forum ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-16T02:04:39.983" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6966" PostId="5753" Score="3" Text="Perhaps I'm missing something, but why wouldn't you use the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer?" CreationDate="2010-12-16T02:35:39.777" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="6967" PostId="4017" Score="1" Text="Do you have references for this?" CreationDate="2010-12-16T03:14:02.217" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6968" PostId="5736" Text="Note that there are very few (if any) third-party programs which will edit Canon raw files but not other brands." CreationDate="2010-12-16T03:15:03.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="6969" PostId="5753" Text="I should have added that, but basically I feel like WD-40 was recommended only because it was common, I'm wary of it because it's not really a general use oil but a penetrating oil. It's a good point that the manufacturer recommends it, I just figured someone might know something even a bit better." CreationDate="2010-12-16T03:19:55.787" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="6970" PostId="5754" Text="Thanks, that stuff looks pretty good and there are some bike shops nearby that carry it.  I found the store locator page here: http://www.triflowlubricants.com/buyonline/ .  I'l mark as answered after I try it out." CreationDate="2010-12-16T03:25:33.290" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="6971" PostId="5754" Score="1" Text="Tri-flow it, (I believe) actually a dry lubricant, which is why it's nice. Basically, out of the can, it's the lubricant in a very high vapor-pressure solvent. Therefore, the solvent boils off immediately, leaving a thin coating of the lubricant behind. Having a solid lubricant is advantageous because it's not tacky, so grit is not carried into the mechanism due to adhesion to an oil coating, and it doesn't migrate as easily." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:19:27.677" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6972" PostId="5754" Score="1" Text="Whoops, specifically I am talking about the dry lubricant version. Buy that one." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:20:21.293" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6973" PostId="5729" Score="1" Text="As to windows vs Mac, Yes. Startup time is generally a minute or two, it varies too." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:21:49.000" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6974" PostId="5734" Text="This actually has nothing to do with the hardware at all. It's all down to the driver and software." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:23:38.450" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6975" PostId="5731" Text="That image is made of win." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:24:21.227" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="6976" PostId="5594" Text="None of the limits in the page you linked to refer to running limits; only software and database design limits.  So they do not describe the total number of possible entries in the database, for example." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:44:07.793" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="6977" PostId="5754" Text="Thanks for the advice, I was considering buying the grease instead of the lubricant, but I had looked at the dry lubricant too and was wondering if it would suffice... I'll go for that one." CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:47:10.350" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="6978" PostId="5745" Text="When you're not experienced enough it's rather better to take a look at setup shot to figure out which kind of light source was used and what it had produced in result. Sometimes it helps to understand that it's necessary to use, for example, bigger key light than you used in same setup or where to put kicker lights." CreationDate="2010-12-16T07:07:22.683" UserId="1290" />
  <row Id="6979" PostId="5752" Text="+1 to skipping the round trip through PDF. Print directly from whatever layout package you're using to design the cards, or export the card as a png and layout the png." CreationDate="2010-12-16T08:32:26.813" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6980" PostId="5747" Text="RIP really isn't the area you want. That's all about taking file and translating it into the native commands of the printer, as well as possibly multiple color plates for several printers in sequence." CreationDate="2010-12-16T08:34:04.283" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="6981" PostId="5754" Text="Cool, I didn't actually know about the difference there... that does indeed sound useful!  Thanks, @fake-name" CreationDate="2010-12-16T08:51:45.103" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="6982" PostId="432" Text="I agree with you about Cambridge In Colour" CreationDate="2010-12-16T09:11:50.960" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="6983" PostId="977" Text="Changed non-bayer to monochrome. Doesn't change my point though." CreationDate="2010-12-16T10:12:23.563" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="6984" PostId="5594" Text="@Kendall - The last one does, it's the page limit. There are probably a few other impacting behaviours such as overflowing the size of a page (I'd suspect it's 8k), and such. As you push to those limits, which are soft, you probably start to effect performance notably." CreationDate="2010-12-16T11:36:04.243" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6985" PostId="894" Text="Nice to hear that at least one brand is thinking about IR possibilities with digital!" CreationDate="2010-12-16T13:41:26.993" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="6986" PostId="5744" Text="I know it's been left in the sun, the person I have gotten it from is from Florida, and where I found it was in an area where it was really hot and not so much shade from the sun and they said it's been sitting there for years." CreationDate="2010-12-16T13:41:50.983" UserId="2684" />
  <row Id="6987" PostId="5744" Text="it's tacky on the rubber plastic, and it's only on the rubber part as if it had melted, but the rest of the lens is fine" CreationDate="2010-12-16T13:43:36.177" UserId="2684" />
  <row Id="6988" PostId="5759" Text="Thanks, but I already own it and I have actually tried a few times to do a full import but I never get past several hours before I need my computer for some other project. It's sad because the import consumes almost all available resources on my system (4x 3.4ghz, 6gb of ram) leaving almost nothing left for me to even run a Remote Desktop session to work - I'm guessing it will take around 24 hours." CreationDate="2010-12-16T13:45:56.517" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6989" PostId="5767" Text="What Adobe quotes is just a number. I can believe what you're saying about the performance decreasing though. I hope to get the time in the near future to let a full import run to see first-hand." CreationDate="2010-12-16T14:26:47.373" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6990" PostId="5729" Text="Yes? Does that mean you have Win _and_ Mac?" CreationDate="2010-12-16T14:44:00.940" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="6992" PostId="5769" Text="The question is a little open ended and subjective, you might want to reword it looking for people's experiences with the options. See the site FAQ for some info." CreationDate="2010-12-16T16:59:39.803" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="6993" PostId="5769" Text="Could you clarify what your primary uses for the camera are?  At $2500 I'm betting you have some specific uses for the camera (sports, wildlife, landscape, architecture, portraits, journalism, family...). " CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:03:38.457" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6994" PostId="5728" Text="I wouldn't say that something you create yourself wouldn't run as smoothly. It is also not that difficult these days to render your &quot;map fly over&quot; to a video...at least, not with the latest .NET frameworks. Smoothness is a matter of mathematical precision, and you can either use low precision or very high precision. The difference would be computation speed, so if you are willing to wait a bit, you could generate a very smooth fly over video from your own program." CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:04:56.787" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="6995" PostId="5769" Text="Really, a question like this is too open. You need to have specific needs to be able to have a reason to choose between cameras, otherwise all DSLRs are certainly good enough." CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:31:35.933" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="6996" PostId="5769" Score="2" Text="I think there is a good question buried in here, it just needs to be polished a little.  Right off the bat I can tell he wants a portrait kit and a FF body with 85mm + 135mm or 70-200 f2.8 is a good answer but the question needs to be clearer." CreationDate="2010-12-16T17:37:58.707" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="6997" PostId="5773" Score="3" Text="100% agree on the 135 f/2 on a FF body! Sharpness and contrast are great and it's a very useful length too, you can obliterate the background without having to back up too far. " CreationDate="2010-12-16T19:41:29.880" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="6998" PostId="2463" Text="One exception to the &quot;no free lunch&quot;--if the seller mistitled the auction-style listing (for instance, a 30D listed as a D30, which is a *very* different beast). In that (admittedly rare) instance, the price may be low merely because of lack of competition." CreationDate="2010-12-16T20:59:03.373" UserId="2706" />
  <row Id="6999" PostId="5771" Score="1" Text="+1 on the FF, you can find used ones quite easily these days." CreationDate="2010-12-16T21:07:14.060" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7000" PostId="5773" Text="+1 I'm with Matt on this." CreationDate="2010-12-16T21:07:37.803" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7001" PostId="5769" Text="Is that USD, CAD, AUD or something else? Either way, you need to add a lot more detail to rephrase this as a question that can have a correct answer. Product recommendations are always on the edge of being too subjective to fit with the rest of the site." CreationDate="2010-12-16T21:29:17.933" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7002" PostId="5746" Text="Yes, exactly. Also the rotation needs to be in a 90Deg increment. BUT -- your software needs to do it that way. Photoshop, Aperture, Automator, Preview, most other image editors or DAMs do NOT do it that way. They take the JPG file, uncompress to a common editable format (TIFF is common), perform whatever action, resave in the requested format which requires re-compression. Look at the link in my OP..." CreationDate="2010-12-17T00:17:56.637" UserId="2319" />
  <row Id="7006" PostId="5763" Text="Most printers don't use green ink, so really the problem with the printer would be a lack of magenta." CreationDate="2010-12-17T03:38:32.080" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7008" PostId="5763" Score="2" Text="I know that but printers do print green, as in the colour, and if it's printing too much of that colour it will affect the image so it's not just a lack of magenta that's the problem it could also be a surplus of cyan and yellow." CreationDate="2010-12-17T09:05:30.957" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7009" PostId="5685" Text="@Rafid, if you want to avoid buying books, perhaps your local library can help?  They can often obtain books you need if you ask them.  " CreationDate="2010-12-17T09:36:58.990" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="7010" PostId="5763" Text="i printed photos at home. i don't think there is anything to do with my printer as some photos i took outside, the prints are fine. is there anything to do with the auto setting. what is white balance or contrast? " CreationDate="2010-12-17T09:58:30.847" UserId="2695" />
  <row Id="7011" PostId="1303" Text="Yes, agreed, Hugin does a great job and is easy to use." CreationDate="2010-12-17T10:11:11.050" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="7012" PostId="5763" Text="@John I've added a paragraph on the role of white balance in the problems you've been having. If you have any other questions let me know" CreationDate="2010-12-17T11:24:28.160" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7013" PostId="5784" Text="@Matt - I never said what the size of the palette had to be..." CreationDate="2010-12-17T11:39:06.000" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7014" PostId="5784" Text="@John the gist of your answer seemed to me to be that halftoning was monochrome whereas dithering used different colours. Maybe I misinterpreted it. How would you characterise the difference then?" CreationDate="2010-12-17T12:31:56.053" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7015" PostId="5784" Text="That was the gist, but that doesn't mean dithering requires more than one, just that it usually does. Anyways, I was responding to you more as a joke and, to be honest, I think your answer is much more complete, I wrote my just before going to bed." CreationDate="2010-12-17T12:41:42.710" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7016" PostId="5784" Text="sorry I didn't get the joke!" CreationDate="2010-12-17T12:58:09.690" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7017" PostId="5791" Text="Reading more on Wikipedia, it looks like AM and FM screening are both types of dithering, if you look at things from a mathematical view." CreationDate="2010-12-17T14:53:10.230" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7018" PostId="5792" Text="Interesting... I would tend to think not, but since I don't know, I'll be curious to see what the responses suggest." CreationDate="2010-12-17T14:53:25.550" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7019" PostId="5769" Text="Do you have lighting/strobes? If not, consider $ towards it" CreationDate="2010-12-17T15:49:47.547" UserId="1676" />
  <row Id="7020" PostId="5793" Text="Thanks, very informative !" CreationDate="2010-12-17T16:08:37.777" UserId="2716" />
  <row Id="7021" PostId="5788" Text="That's why I voted for both;-)" CreationDate="2010-12-17T16:22:04.090" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7022" PostId="562" Text="There is Cinepaint, a branch of GIMP rewritten to handle greater bit depth and HDR.  http://cinepaint.bigasterisk.com/  However, it's based on an older version of GIMP and not so widely used." CreationDate="2010-12-17T16:49:54.493" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="7023" PostId="5798" Score="1" Text="Funny that I'm up-voting an answer with a different &quot;the most important thing&quot;, but I am.  Monitor -- good call.  Since that's outside the &quot;computer&quot;, per se, I wasn't thinking of it, but yes, it's very important to proper photo work." CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:18:52.957" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7024" PostId="612" Text="Hmm, do I give this answer an up-vote, or write my own?  If you substitute &quot;mom&quot; for &quot;dad&quot;, and &quot;Nikon FM&quot; for &quot;Olympus OM-1&quot;, this is pretty much in line with how I would answer.  And it seems like writing my own would be dangerously close to creating a duplicate, even though the details are different.  Hmm, perhaps I'll create a community wiki answer that makes these things generic?" CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:23:23.013" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7025" PostId="5798" Score="1" Text="@lindes - :) If you don't have a good monitor, there's almost no point editing your photos in any way that requires Photoshop, so there is not need to worry about the rest." CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:32:38.080" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7026" PostId="5793" Text="One small thing to note... with certain VMs, there is the option to use the graphics acceleration capabilities of the host. I don't know if this would bypass the card's own calibration, but something to keep in mind." CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:36:16.437" UserId="594" />
  <row Id="7027" PostId="5736" Text="Do you mean free merely as in price, or are you looking for open source?  It sounds like the former, and you're getting answers based on that (though some are also open source)... but just checking if that's how you mean to be asking it." CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:56:12.380" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7028" PostId="977" Score="3" Text="I've yet to see a digital camera duplicate what you can do with, say, Tech Pan (and I mean that from a spectral response POV, not resolution). Post-processing doesn't give quite the same results as one gets from picking an emulsion and filtration for spectral response." CreationDate="2010-12-17T18:45:36.983" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7029" PostId="5796" Text="Just my two cents: it's possible to have &quot;too much&quot; RAM, in the sense that your PC will be outdated and replaced before you start using all that RAM.  I have a S/W development machine with 6GB RAM, and I edit photos and 1080p60 video on it and have never once maxed out the RAM.   If it comes down to going over the ~6GB mark and getting a SSD drive or faster processor, I would go with one of the latter two." CreationDate="2010-12-17T19:11:12.663" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="7030" PostId="5798" Score="1" Text="Thanks alot. I really like the recommendations from the article you mentioned. I'm considering getting one of the HP higher-end machines (I'm not afraid of building one on my own, but frankly it's more expensive for the same computer...). The monitor is a bit trickier, but I'll keep my eye out for a good NEC monitor. Thank you so much for your help!" CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:05:00.927" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7031" PostId="5795" Score="2" Text="The Adobe Creative Suite -- depending on exactly which package you buy -- can include programs for vector image creation, Flash creation, heavy-duty page layout and video/audio editing. If all that other stuff is important to you, cool. But if you are just starting out you might save a little money (like $1,400) by just getting Lightroom and then seeing how at all you are limited by that. If what you most want to do with images is color correct, control contrast, crop and sharpen you might not even need Photoshop." CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:05:02.143" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7032" PostId="5795" Score="1" Text="I already bought it, with student editions (I'm not sure how much I'm going to get into it, but I'm graduating tomorrow, so I thought I'd buy it before it's too late...)" CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:06:41.610" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7033" PostId="5795" Text="Very cool, in that case have fun exploring -- Adobe has some interesting technology." CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:39:04.347" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7034" PostId="5771" Text="Second the 85mm f/1.8 -- the f/1.2 is a nice toy if you can afford it, but it's not $US1500+ better than the f/1.8 unless you need to have near-zero DOF at typical headshot distances to make your style work. (Look, I loved the manual focus version because it was so-o-o easy to focus in low light on the F1, but it was just a rich kid's toy, really.) " CreationDate="2010-12-17T21:24:08.550" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7035" PostId="5772" Text="Mine was a mid-'50s vintage Kodak Brownie Hawkeye. Fixed everything (aperture, shutter speed, focus) and I remember the day I lost the take-up spool for the 620 and had to waste a roll of film to get a new one. Nothing but the magic of freezing shadows, and therein lies the magic." CreationDate="2010-12-17T21:52:55.160" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7036" PostId="5592" Score="2" Text="@John: the address space they mention is how much storage is indexable in the database file. Different images require different amounts of space, but when they run out of space in the file then they can't add any more images (or expand the storage needed for an image already there). Based on the limits of the database engine they use, I believe this is 4GB. If that's the case, then based on the size of my catalogs relative to the number of images they have... I'd expect the limit to be well above 1M images. But they probably set that limit for &quot;worst case&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:07:00.073" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7037" PostId="1171" Text="That's a failing of the camera, not the capture media." CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:15:29.530" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7038" PostId="5753" Text="WD-40 isn't so much a lubricant as a part of the cleaning process. The &quot;WD&quot; in &quot;WD-40&quot; stands for &quot;water displacement&quot;, and that's its main role. You actually want minimum lubrication on a ball head -- it should move freely, but it should also lock solid when you've got a heavy camera canted at a severe angle. Something that makes a really effective lube (like, say, a silicone grease) would make it sloppy and saggy." CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:19:08.730" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7039" PostId="5796" Text="@HiredMind: I'm not sure I agree that there's &quot;too much&quot; in absolute terms, but you're right on the money (pun intended) that there might be &quot;too much&quot; if you're buying more RAM than is actually useful instead of something else,t hat would be.  Thanks for sharing that thought!" CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:19:52.410" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7040" PostId="5798" Text="@Itai: very true, very true.  I was just thinking &quot;inside the box&quot;; shame on me.  :)" CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:20:49.353" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7041" PostId="5700" Text="The one concern with using CDs for keeping the &quot;negatives&quot; is that you end up with a lot of partially filled CDs that way. One of our local camera stores sells usb keys for that purpose now, so when you drop off your memory card, you also leave the usb key and they transfer the images to it, and sell you a new one when it's full. The price vs memory cards is a push on the long haul, but the usb stick is usable more places. (like libraries)" CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:29:15.893" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7042" PostId="5788" Text="You may also want to dial down the flash brightness, so that it just fills things in a little, which will make the strange lighting angle less noticeable.  I've also done such random tricks as placing a small piece of paper (or a business card, or similar) in front of the flash to direct it up, and then another sheet of paper (or even an open book) to direct it back towards the subject.  Example (no background recorded, but hopefully you see the quality of the light being improved): http://www.flickr.com/photos/lindes/2675890360/ -- me taking it: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amanky/2679455564/" CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:38:44.417" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7043" PostId="5771" Text="@Stan So you're saying if somebody does need razor thin DOF or half an f-stop more light then they're a rich kid?" CreationDate="2010-12-17T23:02:13.020" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7044" PostId="5771" Score="1" Text="No, that starting with that lens because &quot;it's the best&quot; is a rich kid's approach. Technically, for most photographers, the f/1.2 offers nothing but extra weight and flare (the same problem haunted the 50mm f/1.0, which shared the same body and has been discontinued). Someone who chooses the lens because they need what it can offer over the f/1.8 (for &quot;available darkness&quot; shooting or infinitesimal DOF) is making the right choice. But for portraiture? Unless it's enviromental, I'd save money on the lens and put it into lighting/modifiers." CreationDate="2010-12-17T23:15:17.677" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7045" PostId="5654" Text="Look at B&amp;H for the Impact &quot;umbrella brackets&quot;. They're probably not the cheapest you can get -- all you need is something with a hole in the bottom with a screw clamp, an adjustable hinge, another hole for the umbrella shaft and a something that looks like a hot shoe to hold your flash -- there are a lot of makers, and if you're paying more then twenty bucks (often a lot less) you're being taken for a ride." CreationDate="2010-12-18T01:48:33.833" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7046" PostId="5753" Text="I can see the WD-40 acting as a cleaner, but I still think something of a lubricant that keeps dust away can be of use - the dry lubricant mentioned below seems like it will do the trick.  The clamping knob that keeps the ballhead in place seems to be pretty firm so I'm not too worried about it slipping." CreationDate="2010-12-18T06:29:12.417" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="7047" PostId="5784" Text="I think this answer gets the big points quite well.  I'd just like to point out, though, that the wikipedia entries seem also to do a decent job of describing each in ways where the differences become apparent (to me, anyway) -- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halftone and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dither" CreationDate="2010-12-18T07:01:39.743" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7051" PostId="5816" Text="could it be that when the sound of shutter become natural, you can really start shooting?" CreationDate="2010-12-18T13:56:18.700" UserId="2507" />
  <row Id="7052" PostId="5688" Text="@jrista, I don't know actually, I just never saw an academic paper citing a web page. What if the site or ebook get removed? In my humble opinion, I think it is not a good idea to cite sites or ebooks yet, because the idea of citing is that we build our works on each other, so I would rather build my work on something well established rather than just a web page or unpublished ebook. Also, what if the contents are incorrect? With a published book, I am safe because the book author will be blamed, but with an ebook or a site, I will be blamed for depending on it. What do you think?" CreationDate="2010-12-18T18:36:53.957" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="7053" PostId="5822" Text="when you say move them from within Lightroom, what exactly do you mean?" CreationDate="2010-12-18T23:04:03.533" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7054" PostId="5822" Text="I believe @Itai means perform the drag-n-drop type operation in the folder pane" CreationDate="2010-12-18T23:42:29.200" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="7055" PostId="5822" Score="1" Text="Sorry, I assumed it was obvious. Drag-n-drop moves files while in the Library module, to the left between where it says 'Folders' and 'Collections'." CreationDate="2010-12-19T00:14:48.590" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7058" PostId="5824" Score="1" Text="Interesting.... I did things slightly differently and got awful results, but using the technique in the tutorial link gave me perfect results.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-19T01:16:07.200" UserId="492" />
  <row Id="7059" PostId="5822" Text="Thanks, I am pretty noobish at LR" CreationDate="2010-12-19T01:38:11.450" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7060" PostId="4690" Text="@labnut - The &quot;pirated software is *infected* with trojans&quot; warning is bunk. Generally, you either get only a virus, or perfectly functional software. Also, with a little caution, you can avoid the viruses easily." CreationDate="2010-12-19T04:51:39.987" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="7061" PostId="5688" Text="All I can say is that I have read plenty of academic and scientific papers that are littered with citations from books and the internet. Particularly in the scientific realm, citations often make use of citation aggregators or well-established organizations, and standards sites like IEEE, ECMA, ISO, etc. Sure, there is more volatility with internet-based references, however it IS a tremendous resource with far more information than books." CreationDate="2010-12-19T08:17:06.403" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7062" PostId="4499" Text="What happens if you try it a few times, does it then work? I am wondering if it could be a &quot;leaky&quot; capacitor that is just not holding enough charge to flip the &quot;turn on circuit&quot; if it is like other startup circuit problems I have seen, a few attempts at turning it on will charge up the cap and then it should be fine. This happens with other electronics, that have a high output relative to input voltages." CreationDate="2010-12-19T09:04:39.870" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="7063" PostId="2799" Text="Don's tweets are great but they are not photography heavy. @Baldy has more photo content but not exclusive photography." CreationDate="2010-12-19T09:09:10.100" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="7064" PostId="5523" Text="Amazingly similar to mine." CreationDate="2010-12-19T09:11:48.710" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="7065" PostId="4537" Text="My concern about Drobo has been that they use a non-typical scheme for mirroring data across dissimilar drive sizes. have you had any problems?" CreationDate="2010-12-19T09:41:31.940" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="7066" PostId="1479" Text="If you select multiple files, it will apply the difference to all of them, not the date that you set in the box. I just did this with a set of 50 images taken over three months that were all one year off. I changed the date up a year in that dialog, and it just applies +1 year to all the images. It does not apply the specific time." CreationDate="2010-12-19T11:14:05.593" UserId="834" />
  <row Id="7067" PostId="5835" Score="1" Text="The sound is not a problem for me. I was just wondering what is the source of this sound, and the answer by Stan Rogers explains it very well." CreationDate="2010-12-19T15:23:13.550" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="7068" PostId="5835" Score="6" Text="I was surprised when I got a nice new Metz flash, and no longer had that sound to indicate when the flash was done recycling. Now I have to look for the &quot;ready&quot; light. (Oh, the humanity.)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T15:41:43.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7069" PostId="5811" Text="Can you post a link to a file with the metadata intact (not Flickr, because Flickr eats it)? I think &quot;iPhoto Original&quot; gets added as an IPTC key, but I'm not sure about the &quot;Faces&quot; feature." CreationDate="2010-12-19T15:56:23.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7070" PostId="5034" Text="Downloaded and got trial keys after seeing this -- you cost me money, you $#^@!! (The trial, by the way, is 30 days of feature-complete, no-restrictions use if anybody wants to check these out.) InFocus is great, as is DeNoise. I'm still coming to grips with ReMask, but it seems to be better at some things than my old standby (Knockout). I'm not nearly so keen on Detail, but it does do a couple of things well enough to justify installing it as part of the bundle (at essentially no cost)." CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:02:44.023" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7071" PostId="5752" Text="Copy and paste? Use a pattern fill at 100% (just a suggestion)." CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:16:23.710" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7072" PostId="5034" Text="@Stan - LOL, well it's not the first time this image has resulted in somebody spending money. It was cited by &quot;The Online Photographer&quot; as a reason for buying the K-5. So, you got off easy! ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:24:48.327" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7073" PostId="360" Score="2" Text="Studio lighting, particularly softboxes, are almost always a whole lot closer than you'd think they'd be in practice. It took me nearly a year to learn that the right distance for an Elinchrom OctaLite from a subject was 3-4 feet most of the time -- you'd think that something that big should be wa-a-ay far back, but you'd be wrong." CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:54:58.437" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7074" PostId="5833" Score="8" Text="@stan rogers: I think your answer is basically correct, but the details of the circuitry are not quite accurate. Modern cameras charge flash capacitors using what's called a &quot;boost DC-DC converter.&quot; The circuit consists of an inductor, a diode, and a transistor switching on and off around 5-15 kHz. The whining you hear is the mechanical vibration of circuit elements, but there are no transformers involved any more, because they're big and heavy. More info on boost converters: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boost_converter" CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:59:23.097" UserId="2734" />
  <row Id="7075" PostId="680" Score="1" Text="Turning pro ruined my favorite hobby. It was nearly a decade before I could stand to look at a camera after I decided it wasn't for me." CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:09:19.103" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7076" PostId="5758" Text="I've been curious about this question for a while, but haven't used ufraw. Nice to finally see an answer! Thanks, @cabbey" CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:22:46.753" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7077" PostId="5837" Score="2" Text="*Really* good lenses are expensive, so, unfortunately, your statement about &quot;paying a little more for a good lens (trying to keep it under $400)&quot; might indicate that your expectations need an adjustment. Or maybe not: for a lot of purposes, lower-grade lenses are *good enough*." CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:43:47.383" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7078" PostId="360" Score="1" Text="@Stan: Well, the closer you put them, the softer the light is, so why buy *insanely huge* softbox when you can work with something that is only huge? :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:46:55.500" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7079" PostId="5840" Text="Nice site... I think I may use that the next time someone tells me there's no lenses for the K-mount. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T18:21:33.060" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7080" PostId="5840" Text="Cool! thanks, glad you like it." CreationDate="2010-12-19T18:25:39.623" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7081" PostId="5843" Text="That's 2 answers for &quot;bold vs subtle&quot;, which is the kind of stuff I was hoping for. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-19T18:52:46.493" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7082" PostId="5595" Text="I mean low-noise image." CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:06:59.543" UserId="2592" />
  <row Id="7083" PostId="5752" Text="@Stan: You don't want to fill the entire area. You need some whitespace, and business cards rarely fill a full sheet perfectly, and you may need the freedom to pack copies in at different orientations to maximize paper use. " CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:23:10.837" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7084" PostId="5752" Text="I thought you'd said you'd included bleed space in the original. Pattern fill is how I do it. Just sayin'." CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:31:16.243" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7085" PostId="360" Text="&quot;Insanely huge&quot; is for half-figure or better without vertical fall-off (even a 1m^2 large softbox has falloff top &amp; bottom for anything that goes below shoulder-height -- you have to do a sort of &quot;quantum include&quot; to avoid the Venus de Milo treatment)." CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:35:47.097" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7086" PostId="5841" Score="3" Text="You said &quot;The techniques are straightforward; knowing when to use them isn't.&quot;  Recognizing that means you're paying attention and asking the right questions :)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:42:05.767" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7087" PostId="5847" Score="3" Text="Not to sound condescending, but the Nikon P100 is a mass-market compact ultrazoom, not really a &quot;semiprofessional camera&quot;. That doesn't mean you can't learn from it (or even *be* professional with it), but it does have some disadvantages for learning. Namely: a user interface geared towards auto-mode, a slow-ish variable-aperture-zoom lens, no optical viewfinder, and a tiny sensor." CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:12:11.353" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7088" PostId="5847" Text="All that said, nothing wrong with your actual answer!" CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:12:31.010" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7089" PostId="5841" Score="2" Text="Michael Freeman's book *Perfect Exposure* (which I just finished reading) covers a lot of this. It's exactly about *when* to use techniques, and a lot of of the subject material deals with contrast (both locally and globally). That doesn't really answer your question, but it's another one of those books I can't recommend highly enough." CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:18:36.997" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7090" PostId="5835" Score="2" Text="I think the sound is cool!" CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:41:50.620" UserId="1574" />
  <row Id="7091" PostId="5850" Text="I'm curious where the &quot;no other make please&quot; requirement comes from." CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:10:49.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7092" PostId="5850" Score="1" Text="Also I want to add that burst mode is not the best way to get pictures of fast-moving children. You can get lucky that way, but after practicing you'll do better being more engaged and taking one or two shots at the right moment." CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:12:16.203" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7093" PostId="5847" Text="Just having a manual mode means professional for some people I know. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:15:41.793" UserId="2586" />
  <row Id="7094" PostId="1573" Text="Superb site for those who already know which features they want." CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:26:01.780" UserId="2586" />
  <row Id="7095" PostId="5850" Text="@mattdm i just want to stay with one of the 2 front runnersd in dslr arena. im sure sony and pentax are great but if i need service or parts or lenses, there is a larger aftermarket for these." CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:39:27.370" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7096" PostId="5852" Text="so my best bet is a d7000 body and seperate lens? what would be a realy good allaround lense to start with since the kit lense is poor choice... like headphones you get with any portable stereo... they dont bundle the goos stuff." CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:40:51.550" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7097" PostId="5850" Text="You *do* need service and parts or lenses, and for that reason all of the major brands are pretty okay in those areas. It is an advantage of the biggest two, but it really should just be one factor to consider, not an initial limiter. (That said, the fact that you were happy with your D90 is a *great* reason to tend towards Nikon.)" CreationDate="2010-12-19T21:44:41.103" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7098" PostId="5852" Score="2" Text="The 18-200 is jack of all trades, master of none.  If you're learning photography, you are probably interested in learning composition and focal isolation, both of which will be lacking with an all-in-one zoom like the 18-200.  Other zooms will serve you well, take a look at bythom.com or http://www.naturfotograf.com/ for thorough reviews of Nikon lenses across a wide range of applications." CreationDate="2010-12-19T22:01:13.903" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7099" PostId="5847" Score="1" Text="But speaking as someone who's actually received money for photographic services rendered, there is so much more to being pro than a manual mode." CreationDate="2010-12-19T22:02:32.950" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7100" PostId="5850" Text="@mattdm &amp; @kacalapy  I'll mention something that got me banned from the Olympus Flickr forums:  There just _is_ more support, forums, 1st party gear, 3rd party gear, other people around, software, info, product research, $$$$ going into, etc around for Canon &amp; Nikon.  The only reason(s) to go Sony, Oly etc are a) you know somebody close who also has it and you want to use them as a resource b) you have some old oly, zeiss etc lenses you want to try and c) you get _more gear_ for your money.  Overall, going Nikon or Canon is a sound decision unless you have good reason not to." CreationDate="2010-12-19T22:14:34.220" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7101" PostId="5850" Score="1" Text="It becomes a self-fulfilling prophesy, of course. You're right that there's nothing *wrong* with going with the big two: they're big because they're good. But the fact is it's not so dire to be invested in a second-tier brand, and if you're &quot;getting into photography&quot;, it's a mistake to *start* by limiting yourself in this way." CreationDate="2010-12-19T22:20:52.583" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7102" PostId="5845" Score="1" Text="One side-suggestion I'd make is go out and take a _bunch_ of pictures!  Provided it won't break the bank go out and use up a roll of film one day, write down what you did for each picture, then get it developed right away (same day if possible) and have a look.  Take a weekend to do it or something.  When I got my first film SLR 6 years ago this really helped." CreationDate="2010-12-19T22:53:32.440" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7103" PostId="5852" Text="ok i made up my mind and can not wait !!!! to get the d7000 !!!" CreationDate="2010-12-19T23:01:16.393" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7104" PostId="5852" Score="2" Text="+1 - If you aren't going to look at Pentax, then the D7000 would be my advice. The D7000 and K-5 sport the best APS-C sensor on the market right now, IMHO (as well as that of DxO and DP Review). The only funny thing is, you'll still be paying Sony as it is they who make the sensor!" CreationDate="2010-12-19T23:02:20.020" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7105" PostId="5852" Text="hit enter to soon, i am now stuck trying to decide/ decifer my lens choices for the d7000.  i am not thrilled witht he kit lens and am looking alternatives. any ideas a lens for depth of field control, portraits, family, pets, and events. " CreationDate="2010-12-19T23:05:49.480" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7106" PostId="5850" Text="I tend to agree with Matt. I wouldn't be looking Sony, there are elements of the system that are too proprietary (e.g. the flash shoe), but others in the second tier such as Pentax and Olympus are not wastelands for 3rd party sources or direct repair/support. Either way, MainMa has made the suggestion I would make for somebody who is looking for a D90 improvement and likes the Nikon ergonomics." CreationDate="2010-12-19T23:06:25.633" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7107" PostId="5852" Text="@kacalapy - Never skimp on lenses, they affect your photography much more than the camera! For a first Nikon lens, I'd go with the AF-S DX 17-55mm F/2.8G because I like wide-angle photography, you can consider the AF-S 24-120 F/4G  instead if you prefer something longer and with a larger range, you will be able to add a wide-angle or ultra-wide lens later. Some people start with a prime lens instead but it's not for everything, as it requires more effort to compose. A 35mm is more or less standard on the D7000, but you can get a 60mm macro if you prefer." CreationDate="2010-12-20T00:12:23.900" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7108" PostId="5852" Text="@Itai - Sigma sells a nice 17-50 EX OS HSM F/2.8 that I think is about half the price of the official Nikon.  " CreationDate="2010-12-20T00:50:15.973" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7109" PostId="5860" Text="http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_EOS_Rebel_T2i-vs-Nikon_D3100" CreationDate="2010-12-20T01:30:59.340" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7110" PostId="5860" Score="5" Text="I think you should rephrase the question, it's argumentative in its current form and that's counter to the site FAQ. Perhaps asking for pros and cons from people with experience with the cameras is a better approach rather than asking for comparative information which, in all honesty, I suspect few could really give anyways." CreationDate="2010-12-20T01:38:37.107" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7111" PostId="5852" Score="1" Text="@rfusca - Well, I have not tried that one, so it may be an exception to the rule but my experience is that price is quite proportional to quality. Sigma's excellent lenses tend to cost similarly to those of other brands. When they cost less, they tend to perform less well too." CreationDate="2010-12-20T01:49:54.267" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7112" PostId="5845" Text="Just FYI, I talked about the same camera/lens here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5692/pentax-to-canon-adapter (She's my sister)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T03:45:15.340" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="7113" PostId="5798" Text="If you have a small budget, a screen definitely is *not* your most important consideration. Getting a computer that functions well is your top priority, i.e RAM, processor, graphics. A cheap monitor will serve you fine until your budget allows." CreationDate="2010-12-20T03:47:13.810" UserId="416" />
  <row Id="7114" PostId="5847" Score="1" Text="And manual mode on compacts are often not nearly as &quot;quick&quot; as the controls on an SLR. But your points are fine. I would add however, that the aperture not only affects light level, but depth of field. With a compact, this rarely has much effect due to the small sensor, but on an SLR sensor (whether FF or not), aperture significantly changes depth of field." CreationDate="2010-12-20T05:13:24.327" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7115" PostId="5848" Text="&quot;The wheel&quot; didn't come with a manual :-P" CreationDate="2010-12-20T05:15:25.930" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7116" PostId="5837" Text="I think you'll find that a &quot;decent&quot; lens won't really come down below maybe $6-800. Most &quot;decent&quot; zoom lenses are typically over 1K." CreationDate="2010-12-20T05:50:54.247" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7117" PostId="5841" Text="@mattdm: I think saying &quot;It's a big topic, go read this book that deals with it&quot; is a perfectly fine answer. :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T06:20:07.440" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7118" PostId="5847" Text="Now that you mention it, changing the aperture size on my camera really has no immediately noticeable effect on depth of field. Revised my answer." CreationDate="2010-12-20T06:21:06.520" UserId="2586" />
  <row Id="7119" PostId="5842" Text="Excellent, excellent pics, and a perfect illustration of how different effects come from differing contrast. " CreationDate="2010-12-20T06:22:12.697" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7120" PostId="5842" Text="For pure visual impact, I like the former one of the two identical-two shots. But I could easily see where the 2nd might be preferable, depending on the effect you're trying to achieve." CreationDate="2010-12-20T06:23:49.637" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7121" PostId="5841" Text="@ahockley: thanks :-) Frankly I'd like to see more of these &quot;when&quot; type questions on photo.se and the rest of the Internet in general. All the gear &amp; technique does get tiring after a while. :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T06:29:10.277" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7122" PostId="5861" Score="5" Text="I disagree with your advice about kit lenses, at least for a novice. At the entry level kit lenses are a great way to find out what kind of lens to upgrade to. Some people shoot mostly at 18mm, others at 200mm, etc, but a total beginner may not know this until he shoots for a bit. Kit lenses are cheap, disposable, and cover useful ranges. They can also tide novices over while they decide how much money they want to commit to photography. Personally, a kit lens is how I realized 50mm primes were a bad choice for me, despite overwhelming advice that I should get one. " CreationDate="2010-12-20T08:21:55.847" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="7123" PostId="5860" Score="3" Text="In addition to what John Cavan stated, this is also several specific questions in one. It should be split up into separate questions. We prefer not to have specific X vs. Y questions here, particularly Canon vs. Nikon, as that is just asking for a lot of unqualified or irrelevant answers that won't provide true benefit to our users and viewers. Please rephrase your question to be less argumentative, and ask separate questions for each of the questions stated here." CreationDate="2010-12-20T08:24:56.743" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7124" PostId="5430" Text="Beautiful pics!" CreationDate="2010-12-20T08:53:27.110" UserId="3" />
  <row Id="7125" PostId="5860" Score="1" Text="To ask whether one brand is better than another brand is a meaningless question. What are your needs? What are your circumstances? What are your aspirations? I suggest you look at the Kepner-Tregoe Decision Analysis http://www.valuebasedmanagement.net/methods_kepner-tregoe_matrix.html This will give you an organised, systematic way of selecting amongst alternatives." CreationDate="2010-12-20T09:04:13.790" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="7126" PostId="5729" Text="@glenneroo - Yes.&#xA;On the same desk to boot! I use a KVM." CreationDate="2010-12-20T09:04:23.870" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="7128" PostId="5759" Text="Try Picasa. It does incremental imports - You can close it while importing, and it will pickup where it left off when you open it again." CreationDate="2010-12-20T09:06:18.717" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="7129" PostId="5735" Text="Thanks a lot for your reply.  It's not really what we're looking for though :-( We need to do large numbers of book covers only -  and definitely can't guillotine the book as that's what we are trying to sell! We really need a flatbed option.  Thanks anyway though" CreationDate="2010-12-20T10:23:24.957" UserId="2659" />
  <row Id="7130" PostId="5870" Text="Your remark about the composition may not be relevant to the post, but I still appreciate the feedback. " CreationDate="2010-12-20T11:00:42.633" UserId="2435" />
  <row Id="7131" PostId="5870" Text="It certainly did, but would be interesting to see why your girlfriend thinks they look rubbish. Is this only because of the post processing? I actually think the post on the lake image is good and not overdone at all. It might just be the maximum you can get out of that picture." CreationDate="2010-12-20T12:02:53.870" UserId="2642" />
  <row Id="7132" PostId="5834" Text="Not too happy with the reliability of this solution." CreationDate="2010-12-20T12:03:51.873" UserId="2258" />
  <row Id="7133" PostId="5844" Text="So there is nothing with a Sony/Minolta fit of repute?" CreationDate="2010-12-20T12:04:21.467" UserId="2258" />
  <row Id="7134" PostId="202" Text="I've got one of these. Keeps my lens perfectly clean. No dust/fingerprints at all." CreationDate="2010-12-20T12:44:42.980" UserId="2730" />
  <row Id="7135" PostId="5856" Score="1" Text="Ken Rockwell can be fun, but he has a tendency to just write down whatever comes into his mind. I believe the &quot;about&quot; page on his site used to say that the *whole thing* was a joke, although it now says that *some* of the site is. Either way, it really, really, can't be classified as &quot;solid info&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-20T12:55:07.183" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7136" PostId="5844" Text="Not that I'm aware of, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. Of the most well known, it appears they're strictly standard hot shoe size. Minolta, in this instance, I think made a bad mistake and Sony has perpetuated." CreationDate="2010-12-20T14:21:58.030" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7137" PostId="5856" Text="yep. &quot;solid info&quot; was too strong - perhaps easy to understand. " CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:30:19.010" UserId="2742" />
  <row Id="7138" PostId="5857" Score="1" Text="Make sure to go through Lighting 101 and Lighting 102 series on the site, they explains all aspects of lighting in pretty linear and understandable way." CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:42:13.093" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7139" PostId="5853" Text="AFAIK &quot;flash head&quot; is usually used for studio flash units which need separate power source." CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:44:29.640" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7140" PostId="5834" Text="Unfortunately, the only TTL alternative is to go wired. There is a PC adapter that will let you use standard third-party wireless equipment, but it doesn't have a shoe (it's meant for studio lighting) so you'd need to McGuyver a kit together at both ends (camera and flash) to make it work. Minolta's pro solution (on the 9/9000 series cameras) used an on-camera PC socket." CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:45:40.127" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7141" PostId="5796" Text="@lindes: Yeah, not in absolute terms...  That mark just happens to be around 6GB right now - it moves up every year  :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:30:13.693" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="7142" PostId="5752" Text="Not bleed space, white space. You can't fill up a sheet completely with business cards...if you tried, some of them would only be partial, and wasteful. It is easier to find and chop off plain white cardstock from the edges of the paper, than to try and find the proper edge within a pattern-filled area. After chopping off the white space, you then have crop marks for each individual business card where you can cut off the bleed." CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:17:31.673" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7143" PostId="5857" Score="2" Text="Strobist is awesome. However, the shortcomings of this particular flash series loom large. See: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101-start-here.html -- the Sigma ST fails on both counts. First, no P/C cord connection (and the universal adapter *won't work*) and second, the manual control is limited to all or 1/16th. Basically, this is an auto-mode flash, not a Strobist flash." CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:42:16.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7144" PostId="5877" Score="4" Text="I hear Nikon has a 'nifty-ish' 35mm thats making Canon users jealous, may be a good alternative to the 50mm." CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:11:01.573" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7145" PostId="5877" Score="1" Text="Or to put it another way, the 55-300 is not really a step *up* from the kit lens, but just a step into a different range of focal lengths." CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:16:41.507" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7146" PostId="5877" Score="2" Text="@Shizam : There's a f/1.8 35mm DX for Nikon thats under $200." CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:24:49.490" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7147" PostId="5877" Text="@Shizam @rfusca And it's a pretty neat cheap lens, I own one and love it, probably the best bang for the buck you can find" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:25:40.287" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="7148" PostId="5857" Text="That'll just whet is appetite for a real flash. However, the essentials of lighting are still very valuable pieces of information and the Strobist site is one of the best around for understanding that. Otherwise, just read the camera manual, stick a flash on the shoe and let it be controlled that way. There isn't much learning to be done there." CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:28:22.773" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7149" PostId="5877" Text="thanks for the explanation and steering me in the right direction!" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:41:38.283" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7150" PostId="5881" Text="do any of those lenses allow me to zoom in and out. i dont want a prime as my first and only lens for a while." CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:42:17.783" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7151" PostId="5884" Text="Hah, we replied at the same time w/the same info, deleting mine :)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:53:49.817" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7152" PostId="5884" Text="@Shizam: Ya, I saw you replied on the main page and by the time I reloaded - you had deleted." CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:55:04.937" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7153" PostId="5881" Text="@kacalapy: the 35-70mm 2.8 she lists is a zoom lenses.  The optics are better quality, but you're definitely losing a bit of range from the 18-105mm kit." CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:58:07.387" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7154" PostId="5881" Text="I agree you are loosing some of the zoom - I guess it depends how much you are going to use the zoom at maximum capacity" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:59:24.840" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="7155" PostId="5881" Text="@Zoe Bailey: You're also losing quite a bit on the wide side as well.  Personally, I'd rather have the 35-70mm, but if you plan on shooting much landscape, the 35 is kind of narrow." CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:05:48.863" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7156" PostId="5886" Text="ill look into price difference when i know how to distinguish the two sets of lenses. thanks... how much ball park would you say is the gap from DX glass to FX glass?" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:19:25.177" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7157" PostId="5881" Text="@rfusca very true - i do have a 10-20 for when i want to do landscapes - i think the 18-105 is a nice starter lens" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:46:16.703" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="7158" PostId="5887" Text="Those lens are all very nice - however the cost might be a bit too much for the OP" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:47:18.090" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="7159" PostId="5886" Text="well most of the FX lens have a better range of appeture as well - so its not a 1-2-1 match. however you can get a 55mm-200mm DX for about $200, the closest to that on the FX is the 70-200 2.8 and thats about $2500...so quite a significant difference." CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:49:14.640" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="7160" PostId="5886" Text="This is more of a comment then an answer..." CreationDate="2010-12-20T21:06:50.690" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7161" PostId="5886" Text="@Shizam - fair point, I have updated to include the expanded comment" CreationDate="2010-12-20T21:23:05.487" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="7162" PostId="5887" Text="what characteristics should i look for to get good DOF?" CreationDate="2010-12-20T21:26:07.280" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7163" PostId="5889" Text="Awesome... so nikon or canon? :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T21:45:41.747" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7164" PostId="5889" Text="I assume you saw my comments on that over on another recent post. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:10:40.740" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7165" PostId="5889" Text="But to answer seriously: sure, Nikon or Canon are great. I'm not a fan of the ergonomics of Canon cameras, so I have a personal preference for Nikon between the two. For me, though, the answer is &quot;Pentax&quot; because I love their Limited-series prime lenses. However, the Nikon D7000 looks very, very nice -- it's basically Nikon's answer to the Pentax K-7, and much cheaper than the K-5." CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:12:18.553" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7166" PostId="5879" Score="1" Text="That's a lot of stuff to think about, and I think you're right in a lot of ways. Sometimes, when I process an image and look at it a few days later I see the 'errors' in oversaturation. When first applying them however, I find it quite difficult to notice..." CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:41:08.697" UserId="2435" />
  <row Id="7167" PostId="5879" Text="Kind of too long to read in these Twitter times, but +1 for bringing up the texture of the snow (as well as the sheep for that matter)." CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:45:44.463" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7168" PostId="5898" Score="2" Text="I am, of course, disregarding highly specialised lenses, like tilt/shift lenses, lenses that change field curvature, fisheyes and microscopic lenses -- if you need any of these, it's for a reason, and you'll know what that reason is going in." CreationDate="2010-12-20T23:55:06.263" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7169" PostId="5898" Text="A 50 f/4 does _not_ have the same depth of field as a 100 f/4. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4928/a/4952#4952" CreationDate="2010-12-21T01:02:09.140" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7170" PostId="5898" Score="2" Text="The lens-to-film distance changes with the focal length as well (meaning that the apparent size of the lens, and the &quot;obliqueness&quot; of the incident light) also changes. Until you get to focusing distances that require exposure compensation, yes, depth-of-field is a function of distance and aperture, not focal length." CreationDate="2010-12-21T01:11:06.197" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7171" PostId="5901" Text="is the kit lense any good? or should i get just the body and seperate lens? (what kind?)" CreationDate="2010-12-21T01:13:13.173" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7172" PostId="5901" Text="Seems like you're getting some good info over here:http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/5876/1819  More good info would be from Mr Rockwell: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/18-105mm.htm" CreationDate="2010-12-21T01:21:15.273" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7173" PostId="5901" Score="2" Text="Also, keep in mind that you're not saving as much as they say you are. Best Buy overcharges by $40 for the 55-300 VR." CreationDate="2010-12-21T01:22:36.383" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7174" PostId="5901" Score="1" Text="@kacalapy - No, the kit lens is not any good. That's why the give it to you for so little. Nikon makes excellent lenses and prices them accordingly." CreationDate="2010-12-21T02:39:02.740" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7175" PostId="5898" Text="Not magic but the 70-100mm range is considered to give a flattering perspective most people. As you may know, longer lenses reduce the impression of distance and so it makes people's noses look shorter. I suppose they may not like that in Asia ;) but it least most North-American photography books describe it that way." CreationDate="2010-12-21T02:41:54.063" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7176" PostId="5895" Score="6" Text="Very good answer!" CreationDate="2010-12-21T03:20:40.693" UserId="3" />
  <row Id="7177" PostId="5895" Text="Awesome! Thanks Conor." CreationDate="2010-12-21T03:44:35.990" UserId="400" />
  <row Id="7178" PostId="5868" Text="Thanks for your valuable feedback. One more ques? We just had a daughter and I would like to capture some video footage of her along with shooting pics; so based on that issue, which one (or any other at the same level) will be an ideal buy?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T04:34:56.303" UserId="2743" />
  <row Id="7181" PostId="5868" Text="The Nikon D3100 may have a very slight edge for close-up portraits and sports photos [applicable to hi-motion, active kids] ... especially given the [currently] cheaper prices of the Nikon.   These are both excellent cameras -- you couldn't go wrong with either.  You may eventually want to investigate really solid tripod [for more steady shots, for time-delay shots that include everyone in the family], but that could come later.     " CreationDate="2010-12-21T04:52:38.217" UserId="2745" />
  <row Id="7183" PostId="5907" Text="Known quality of a system does not necesarrily mean its TTL protocols can be easily and reliably reverse-engineered. However, I'd be surprised if Sigma or Metz sold you a flash and it wouldn't work w/ Canon XSi. What can happen though is that you will buy a Canon master flash five years from now and it will work with 430EX II flawlessly, but your off-brand flash unit will need some kind of firmware upgrade." CreationDate="2010-12-21T05:24:22.013" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7184" PostId="5907" Score="2" Text="This is a point in favor of Metz over Sigma, by the way, because most Metz models can be upgraded by the end user via a USB interface. " CreationDate="2010-12-21T05:59:41.833" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7185" PostId="5891" Text="I think I used the advice here well to get some decent shots, will find out in the morning if that holds true, so..." CreationDate="2010-12-21T08:03:54.623" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7186" PostId="5891" Score="1" Text="Be keen to see what you came up with, maybe add a comment with a link if you put them online somewhere?  I didn't get anything much down here in NZ this time..." CreationDate="2010-12-21T09:48:00.827" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="7189" PostId="5913" Text="I never thought of the 'encourage people to print', that would be quite sly :)" CreationDate="2010-12-21T11:59:12.830" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="7190" PostId="5913" Score="4" Text="Nice photos, too." CreationDate="2010-12-21T11:59:35.247" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="7191" PostId="5092" Text="@che, so in this shot, the dust was already there, or you made it?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T12:01:42.080" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="7192" PostId="5913" Score="1" Text="I personally dislike the diagonal shots. All they serve to do is make me have to turn my head. Not saying those shots aren't good, I just would never do a tilt that extreme in my own band photography." CreationDate="2010-12-21T12:37:50.067" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7193" PostId="5898" Text="so with my beak i need a telephoto lens then?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:12:11.120" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7194" PostId="5891" Text="Speaking of, I stared at the moon last night and didn't see anything special. What was I supposed to see?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:15:12.323" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="7195" PostId="5910" Score="2" Text="Great question -- I love when I come here and see something that gets me thinking." CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:19:39.303" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="7196" PostId="5903" Score="1" Text="great but for a noob its hard to make a good choice. im thinking my best bet would be to rent a few lenses and play with them prior to making any purchase, as i have no experience with lenses and would be buying my 1st non-kit lens. nice site, but my dilemma is not knowing good from junk, and i would save to get good lenses if i knew they were worth it and the results/ difference they produce compared with others. any thoughts on this?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:25:45.773" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7197" PostId="5903" Score="1" Text="Renting sounds like a great idea.  " CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:30:21.450" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7198" PostId="5912" Score="2" Text="It's different, though. What if, in a Cessna, the elevator control was accessible by pressing the menu button, scrolling down to Lateral Axis Control, pressing *right*, scrolling down to &quot;Elevator&quot;, pressing *right*, then moving a graphical slider left or right on a little scale, then pressing *ok*?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:55:06.853" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7199" PostId="5909" Score="1" Text="Clarification: is this a question about color correction, to get the picture to look like the subject appears; or about photo-retouching, to make the photograph look as if the subject had typical skin coloration?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:57:14.027" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7200" PostId="5891" Text="@John Isaacks: An eclipse, obviously. But depending on your location, it may not have started yet. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/December_2010_lunar_eclipse#Local_times" CreationDate="2010-12-21T15:01:18.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7201" PostId="5891" Text="No, the eclipse is a universal time, it peaked at about 800 UTC. See pictures below for what it was supposed to look like." CreationDate="2010-12-21T15:03:57.390" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7202" PostId="5909" Text="Sorry about my English ;) A : Yes, indeed, it is a question about photo correction. The question is How to have an uniform skin color ? " CreationDate="2010-12-21T15:20:40.427" UserId="2771" />
  <row Id="7205" PostId="5887" Score="1" Text="Good depth of field is relative to what you are trying to accomplish.  For example if you want to take a nice portrait of a single person you want a fairly shallow depth of field so their face (especially eyes) are in focus but the background is nice and soft.  For that you need to use a wide apearature - f1.4-f2.8.  If you are trying to take a landscape you may want to have near and far objects in focus.  For that you need to use a narrow appearature - f8 - f22.  You use the aperature of your lens to control how much DOF your picture has." CreationDate="2010-12-21T15:59:53.357" UserId="2155" />
  <row Id="7206" PostId="5919" Text="+1 Nice and simple." CreationDate="2010-12-21T16:18:04.120" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7207" PostId="5919" Text="can you translate this into layman's terms please? or better yet provide an real world example" CreationDate="2010-12-21T16:19:29.027" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7208" PostId="5920" Text="can you translate this into layman's terms please?" CreationDate="2010-12-21T16:19:48.653" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7209" PostId="3263" Text="It'd be better to say that the pro zooms have a constant maximum aperture, not a fixed aperture. Some lenses, like mirror lenses, actually literally have fixed apertures and cannot be stopped down." CreationDate="2010-12-21T16:50:36.080" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7210" PostId="5913" Score="4" Text="Obviously I don't do all my shots like that, that would be just as boring as if every shot was dead level, I just find people with guitars fit really nicely into the frame this way. You are entitled to your opinion, I just don't find myself tilting my head at all looking at these (or other shots with an extreme tilt)" CreationDate="2010-12-21T16:59:41.690" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7211" PostId="5092" Text="@Benjol: It was already there; this is just a vacation snapshot :-)" CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:06:01.580" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7212" PostId="5915" Score="2" Text="Personally I find shots rotated slightly to be more off putting than ones with an extreme tilt which is clearly intentional but that's just my opinion. Obviously I would never compose an image with an extreme tilt &quot;for the hell of it&quot;, however I like variety, I would never say a particular composition &quot;never works&quot;!" CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:19:01.090" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7213" PostId="5916" Score="4" Text="I would say image rotation is a **slightly lossy** operation not &quot;very lossy&quot; - especially if you do it on a full resolution image as you rarely get anything like per pixel sharpness out of a DSLR. I did a test with a 5D image (which has v.good sharpness), I rotated the image by 60 degrees one way and back again, after two rotations the effect is **barely noticeable** at 100%: http://www.mattgrum.com/photo_se/before_and_after_rotation.jpg any effect which you can only just make out when looking for it at 100% magnification is not something I would worry about!" CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:25:20.790" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7214" PostId="5889" Score="1" Text="as far as nikon vs canon... whichever fits your hands better.  I personally hate the way nikons feel... but I have a friend who has the opposite opinion." CreationDate="2010-12-21T17:30:33.877" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="7215" PostId="5916" Text="Maybe that is too strong. I'll change it just &quot;lossy&quot; and leave it at that. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-21T18:17:15.610" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7216" PostId="5915" Text="In general I agree with Matt Grum about &quot;slightly rotated&quot; shots--but this one works (for me)." CreationDate="2010-12-21T18:45:33.633" UserId="2706" />
  <row Id="7217" PostId="5924" Score="3" Text="perfect. everything is crystal clear now! what a great explanation, a thousand thanks. this answers much of the ambiguity i face now with selecting my first lens purchase. im adding a new question about this now and your answer will make that question much more focused. the only other factor is getting the aperture nailed down as i want to look at a lens to help with indoor (low light) people shooting using hand held stabilization." CreationDate="2010-12-21T19:01:00.977" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7218" PostId="5923" Text="Just a pedantic note of narrow applicability: Tilt/shift lenses imperfectly mimic the capabilites of view cameras (unless you consider a view camera to be one big t/s lens...), so they, too, have &quot;more than one&quot; focal distance." CreationDate="2010-12-21T19:41:55.587" UserId="2706" />
  <row Id="7219" PostId="3263" Text="@mattdm - you're right, changed." CreationDate="2010-12-21T20:52:39.900" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="7220" PostId="5910" Text="It's too bad that cameras don't have a circular sensor; so much of the image circle (42 percent) is wasted with our strange, rectangular format." CreationDate="2010-12-21T21:42:56.117" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7223" PostId="5913" Text="I agree with the motor sport kind of shot, but I will say that it works also because it's not an extreme angle. I can't help but need to tilt my head when trying to view those photos above. The photos themselves are great, I personally get really put off by the big angle. A friend of mine also puts these crazy angles in her band photography and it's never sat well with me." CreationDate="2010-12-21T22:19:55.900" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7224" PostId="5910" Text="I agree, this is something I've actually wanted to discuss for a while as some friends do it though I don't believe they realise it makes the photo &quot;disorienting&quot; to look at (my opinion of course)." CreationDate="2010-12-21T22:22:31.453" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7225" PostId="5929" Text="Round hoods are great for lenses that have rotating front elements, but I've never really understood why everybody doesn't at least provide the option to purchase Leica-style rectangular hoods for their prime lenses (at extra cost, of course). I usually found myself using a third-party bellows hood (not great for a handheld walkin'-around camera, I know, but it did provide as much control as you can get)." CreationDate="2010-12-21T22:44:22.657" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7226" PostId="5879" Text="Before the edit, the picture of the group of sheep, you have a lot of detail in the snow. What did you do to achieve this? Just cranking up the contrast doesn't cut it... " CreationDate="2010-12-21T22:56:15.270" UserId="2435" />
  <row Id="7227" PostId="5907" Text="The &quot;good&quot; brands of third-party TTL flashes are generally excellent, but they're not where you'd go looking if you want to save a buck or two. Particularly in the case of Metz and Quantum, they usually offer power and features that the camera-brand flashes don't, and you *will* pay for the quality and functionality you get." CreationDate="2010-12-21T22:59:25.727" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7228" PostId="5932" Score="1" Text="And I do realise that the brand name is unfortunate given the problem under consideration -- it made sense back when Eye Candy first came out and adding weird textures was what their software was all about." CreationDate="2010-12-21T23:34:42.953" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7229" PostId="5907" Text="@Stan - I was a bit surprised at how reasonable Metz was, the ring flash I bought was less expensive than the Pentax option." CreationDate="2010-12-22T00:46:15.390" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7230" PostId="5909" Text="@Pierre, welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2010-12-22T02:16:53.767" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7231" PostId="5936" Score="4" Text="Yikes! Prepare for battle... Just kidding ;) I use take, make, shoot, capture and photograph interchangeably in my classes, course notes and presentations. If I kept using the same world all the time, I would sound like a broken record. For some reason though, I never use the word 'snap', maybe I need to consult a therapist to know why. At least we don't have the same problem as in television industry, where they sometimes have to 'shoot a pilot'." CreationDate="2010-12-22T02:58:26.660" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7232" PostId="5935" Score="2" Text="I don't have any advice, but I have to say I'm looking forward to seeing the outcome. If you can post some resulting images on Flickr or your own site and let us know, that would be awesome. I love old images and I suspect I'm not alone in that." CreationDate="2010-12-22T03:40:02.570" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7233" PostId="5937" Text="For those who don't feel like searching, here's an interesting article about Karsh (with photos): http://freerangetalk.com/?p=21291" CreationDate="2010-12-22T04:04:36.303" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7234" PostId="5873" Text="It's a tought shot to &quot;process&quot;, that's for sure. I probably wouldn't go beyond some mild contrast increase over the default in Lightroom. Your example is good, though I might have increased the exposure a fraction myself." CreationDate="2010-12-22T05:28:18.723" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7235" PostId="5916" Text="@MattGrum, that is good to know, it was something else that I was wondering when asking my question. Maybe you should add that info into your answer so that it gets more eyes on it?" CreationDate="2010-12-22T05:56:05.723" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="7236" PostId="5936" Score="1" Text="When I'm shooting on vacation and only doing it for the memory, then I take snapshots. I'm too busy enjoying myself to worry about the composition (much) so I grab the shot and go. If I'm working or shooting creatively then it's a much more considered thing; I'm composing, analyzing, thinking of exposure and depth of field. I'll take/make/shoot/capture and photograph, but I don't do snapshots at that point. " CreationDate="2010-12-22T06:22:58.810" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="7237" PostId="5916" Text="I suspect that up-sampling the image to something like 2 or 4 times the original size before applying the rotation would help preserve any detail that might otherwise be lost." CreationDate="2010-12-22T06:23:32.813" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="7238" PostId="3516" Text="Another liquid/wipe combo that works really well are good-quality lens wipes, like the ones in sealed packets for cleaning eye-glasses or binoculars. Test them on a house mirror first to make sure there's no smearing. I keep some of the ones from CostCo in my camera cases for the times dust gets out of control. A quick wipe or two across the filter seems to get it done 90% of the time. I've had a couple occasions some dust wouldn't come off and took a couple wipes, but I live and shoot in Arizona and dust can get really bad here. They'll sometimes leave a fiber behind but a puff will fix that." CreationDate="2010-12-22T06:31:25.430" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="7239" PostId="5947" Score="3" Text="I take it you mean the turn of the 'other' century? :)" CreationDate="2010-12-22T07:46:43.647" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="7240" PostId="5945" Score="4" Text="At first glance, this comes across as a thinly veiled &quot;Nikon is better than Canon&quot; type post, you might want to consider rewording to be brand neutral and focus on your question, before the wider community votes to close as subjective/argumentative." CreationDate="2010-12-22T08:55:41.967" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7241" PostId="5932" Score="1" Text="Whoo, I will have to keep this software carefully hidden from my wife ! &quot;Alien Skin&quot; ! Man, do you want me to be divorced ? ;-)" CreationDate="2010-12-22T09:22:01.380" UserId="2771" />
  <row Id="7242" PostId="5945" Score="8" Text="To me it's just a statement of fact, the situation *is* better with Nikon gear, and that's relevant to the question. I don't think ieure has a hidden agenda!" CreationDate="2010-12-22T09:32:07.723" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7243" PostId="5949" Score="6" Text="Don't tar all EF-s lenses with the same brush just because of one or two bad zooms, the low end EF lenses they shipped with film SLRs were worse! The 10-22, 17-55 f/2.8, 60 f/2.8 are all L quality optics" CreationDate="2010-12-22T09:35:20.543" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7244" PostId="5935" Text="Cannot really help from own experience, but found something what may help you: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srTneleXIC0&amp;feature=related and also pretty active group here http://www.wetplateday.org/" CreationDate="2010-12-22T09:35:32.523" UserId="1681" />
  <row Id="7245" PostId="5952" Text="Thanks @Rowland. Think I'll try and crop them at my local supermarket, and if that fails try and bribe a photo editing savvy friend (who may have some time on their hands as they may be off work) to help :)" CreationDate="2010-12-22T10:00:59.503" UserId="2788" />
  <row Id="7246" PostId="5957" Score="1" Text="What Operating System?" CreationDate="2010-12-22T13:34:25.327" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7247" PostId="5945" Score="1" Text="If we are discussing modern lenses, maybe the question is &quot;how likely is it that a camera manufacturer will change lens electrical/mechanical connections in the future in such a way that older lenses will no longer be 100% functional?&quot; I'd say very low but not zero probability." CreationDate="2010-12-22T14:06:44.847" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7248" PostId="5916" Text="@Sean, I think that'll just make things worse by interpolating more." CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:03:59.393" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7249" PostId="5916" Text="@MattGrum, it occurs to me that the test you're doing doesn't show the whole problem, in that the operation causes blur, but that blur is largely reversible *if* you do the exact same thing in reverse. If you just leave it rotated and then continue to do other things, the loss is made permanent." CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:04:40.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7250" PostId="5940" Text="John, to you, do either of the terms have negative connotations -- the flip-side of the positive examples you give?" CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:07:32.310" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7251" PostId="5942" Text="So, you do both, but to you, &quot;making&quot; is the better approach, and &quot;taking&quot; something you do when you're not really putting thought into it out of lack of care or lack of time." CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:09:45.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7252" PostId="5945" Score="2" Text="FWIW, Pentax cameras are &quot;largely backwards-compatible with lenses dating back to the ’60s&quot; too, with fewer caveats than with Nikon — although depending on one's use, the big &quot;hafta use stop-down metering&quot; caveat is pretty significant." CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:13:07.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7253" PostId="5940" Text="@mattdm - Good thought, I edited my original with where I see the negative sides as well." CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:33:18.493" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7254" PostId="5957" Score="2" Text="On Windows 7, that's all built in (between the photo viewer and the &quot;extra large thumbnails&quot;).  I frequently do this from the laptop without removing the pictures from the camera.  (It's hard to recognize a great pic from a thumbnail, but it's dirt simple to recognize total crap)  And considering how the Mac is aimed at art and media, I'd be willing to bet that it's built in there too.   " CreationDate="2010-12-22T17:06:33.300" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="7255" PostId="5935" Text="Thanks Rafal, that's a good link. He is scanning with the lid open though, I can't figure out how to get that to work." CreationDate="2010-12-22T17:22:43.410" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="7256" PostId="5954" Text="Sometimes I crop to put something that was close to a thirds-point direction on one. My estimation for the rule-of-thirds isn't as accurate as I would like." CreationDate="2010-12-22T17:36:10.593" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7257" PostId="5963" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/129/21" CreationDate="2010-12-22T17:48:48.603" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7258" PostId="5957" Text="@HiredMind that's why I asked for clarification on OS -- Windows Explorer can do this for Canon/Nikon RAW since XP (with a small additional add-on from Microsoft) and also in Vista (with the RAW plugin from most vendors, or even some third parties)" CreationDate="2010-12-22T17:56:04.853" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7259" PostId="5951" Text="Just a pedantic note that 90° rotations of JPEG files can be done losslessly. (If each image dimension is divisible by 8.) most editing programs won't do this, though -- you'd need something specifically smart about jpeg rotation.) I assume that the kiosk systems import the jpegs and then work on them in a lossless internal format straight through til printing, but I don't know for sure. " CreationDate="2010-12-22T18:13:05.167" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7260" PostId="5951" Text="Yep, was going to mention that but didn't want to confuse the poster. Another pedantic note, image dimensions need to be divisible by 8 without chroma-subsampling and by 16 with 4-2-2 subsampling. You can also crop losslessly in some circumstances though that's even harder! " CreationDate="2010-12-22T18:18:27.757" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7262" PostId="5957" Text="If you have Mac, Preview does it all. And preview comes standard on Macs." CreationDate="2010-12-22T18:53:42.297" UserId="2649" />
  <row Id="7263" PostId="5949" Score="1" Text="Couldn't agree more with Matt. There are some very high quality EF-S lenses, and as long as you know what you are buying, the purchase of a quality EF-S lens can last as long as you use APS-C bodies. I don't see cropped sensors going away any time soon, as they make up the vast bulk of the DSLR world. The longevity of EF-S can be superb if you primarily (or only) use APS-C bodies." CreationDate="2010-12-22T18:53:45.650" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7265" PostId="5957" Text="@Rowland: Vista (see edit to original post).  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-22T19:41:24.200" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="7266" PostId="5961" Text="It appears @seanmc is after a Windows solution, so this won't work for him." CreationDate="2010-12-22T19:49:17.750" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7267" PostId="5962" Text="It appears @seanmc is after a Nikon solution, so this won't work for him." CreationDate="2010-12-22T19:50:47.343" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7268" PostId="5929" Text="@matt so then it wont matter if i shoot landscape or portrait since the hood moves witht he lense and camera nothing should change and im good, corrrect?" CreationDate="2010-12-22T20:18:53.887" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7269" PostId="5973" Score="1" Text="this is contrary to the logic (at least to me) of peole using a focal length of 100+ to zoom in on people and get a nice DOF effect. if i understand you correct i need to zoom out and get in close to my subject with max perture?   ... just saw your edit, so im correct in my asumption here then... or am i?" CreationDate="2010-12-22T20:45:16.843" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7270" PostId="5972" Text="see comment below, im confused" CreationDate="2010-12-22T20:46:05.157" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7271" PostId="5974" Score="3" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2181/21" CreationDate="2010-12-22T20:55:37.490" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7272" PostId="5973" Text="Exactly. Your camera has a smaller-than-full-frame sensor, so something in the 50-55mm range on the zoom would be the &quot;portrait&quot; part of the spectrum (compares to the 70-90mm range on a full-frame 35mm), and you can probable move in to the 35-40mm range for most people without making them appear &quot;beaky&quot;. That assumes fairly tight framing, of course (a &quot;headshot&quot; or half-length portrait). To get a narrower DoF from a distance, you really need a lens that's quite a bit faster than the one you have." CreationDate="2010-12-22T20:57:42.223" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7273" PostId="5939" Text="Actually not so much so far, but thanks for warning me." CreationDate="2010-12-22T21:11:10.800" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="7274" PostId="5972" Score="2" Text="Wider aperture does get you a shallow depth of field, but with this lens you'll have a shallower depth of field at 100mm @ f/5.6 than at 18mm @ f/3.5" CreationDate="2010-12-22T21:36:14.027" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7275" PostId="5929" Text="@kacalapy Yeah you shouldn't need to do anything when changing orientation as the hood moves with the lens. " CreationDate="2010-12-22T21:42:36.800" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7276" PostId="5974" Text="Google &quot;exif statistics&quot; (without the quotes) and you should find at least two different photo metadata statistics packages." CreationDate="2010-12-22T21:56:14.490" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7277" PostId="5973" Text="kacalpy is correct in that you will get shallower depth of field at the long end of the zoom (as the f-stop x focal length is larger). You still want to get as close as possible, but don't zoom out to do so... " CreationDate="2010-12-22T21:56:59.840" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7278" PostId="5971" Score="1" Text="See this very similar question (but ignore the accepted answer ;) http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5493/help-with-getting-bokeh-effect/5496#5496" CreationDate="2010-12-22T22:01:57.743" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7279" PostId="5969" Text="I don't need to preview the RAW image, but I'm looking to have the RAW image automatically deleted when I delete the JPG.  Can Explorer do that with the RAW codec?  Can Lightroom?  Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-22T22:05:44.020" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="7280" PostId="5973" Text="I don't know how many different ways there are to say this: DoF is a function of distance and aperture, not focal length. The only reason why there is apparently shallower DoF at longer focal lengths is the magnification factor of the finished image. Using Tech Pan (which out-resolves just about any lens so you can enlarge to the same final subject size), you can prove it to yourself if you wish. With approximately the same framing (obviously the relationships will be different), a shorter lens used closer at the same aperture will provide a shallower DoF." CreationDate="2010-12-22T22:33:35.820" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7281" PostId="5973" Text="@Stan, this page seems to disagree with you: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html, e.g. it shows DOF of 6.61ft at 55mm, f/16, 10ft from subject, but DOF of 1.63ft at 105mm, f/16, 10ft from the subject. (Ah, those two settings will produce *differently* framed photos..)" CreationDate="2010-12-23T00:46:01.320" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7282" PostId="5973" Text="Not when the magnification is the same. I've shot everything from a Pentax 110 SLR to a Cambo Legend 8x10, and I can tell you that grain (and sharpness loss from enlargement) is the only difference between two photographs shot from the same distance with the same aperture. The reason, again, for the apparent difference at say, 50 and 100mm on a 35mm-format camera is that a 2x enlargement is done at exposure, so the bokeh artifacts will appear to be 2x larger. Getting closer will change not just the size of the bokeh, but the rapidity with which they increase fore and aft of the plane of focus." CreationDate="2010-12-23T01:20:13.387" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7283" PostId="5977" Score="1" Text="Zooming out to get closer is the *best* way to limit DoF (staying within a reasonable range to avoid perspective distortion) -- and in this case it also has the side benefit of allowing a larger maximum aperture. The key is to keep the framing of the main subject the same. Long lenses don't give shallower DoF as much as they give greater enlargement." CreationDate="2010-12-23T02:07:16.653" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7284" PostId="5945" Text="One other thing I'd add is that APS-C and FF are really different formats that just happen to share some lenses. Nobody would complain that 35mm lenses don't work on medium format. And FWIW, many more people think they need full frame than actually do." CreationDate="2010-12-23T02:13:30.170" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7285" PostId="5973" Text="@Stan Remember that your f-stop is a *relative* aperture, and that the *absolute* aperture is what really affects DoF. Divide focal length by f-stop to get your absolute aperture. Many P+S cameras have a max aperture of f/2.8 (where f = 4mm, absolute aperture = 1.4mm), but your DoF is going to be much more restricted on a 55mm f/5.6 (absolute aperture = 10mm), despite the &quot;smaller&quot; relative aperture." CreationDate="2010-12-23T02:20:14.460" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7286" PostId="5979" Score="1" Text="Whoops, I think you overlooked this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/978/what-are-good-photography-projects, it is also about photography projects, many of these will give you more experience with your camera." CreationDate="2010-12-23T04:08:31.327" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7287" PostId="5979" Score="2" Text="Yeah, I think this is a dupe of an existing question. It's a good one, but the answers there (plus the question itself) are loaded with ideas." CreationDate="2010-12-23T04:24:04.883" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7288" PostId="5969" Text="My point is that if you use the RAW codec, you don't even need the JPEG as you will be previewing the single image file" CreationDate="2010-12-23T07:10:07.757" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7289" PostId="5957" Text="See also: http://superuser.com/q/41200/302" CreationDate="2010-12-23T07:13:04.167" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7291" PostId="5962" Text="On the other hand, it does add value to the site as a whole to give more generally-useful answers like this.  (As a canon guy, I appreciated this one  :) +1" CreationDate="2010-12-23T11:11:31.853" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="7292" PostId="5970" Text="+1 for the chutzpah" CreationDate="2010-12-23T11:12:23.380" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="7293" PostId="5957" Text="@HiredMind - &quot;It's hard to recognize a great pic from a thumbnail, but it's dirt simple to recognize total crap&quot; - Love it ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-23T11:13:26.627" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="7294" PostId="5974" Text="Note: don't tag your posts with &quot;nikon&quot; unless they're really nikon-focused." CreationDate="2010-12-23T12:48:02.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7295" PostId="5977" Score="2" Text="**@stan** I'm afraid that's *not* the case. Zoom to 18mm f/3.5 and shoot a subject 18 feet away and your depth of field will be infinite (everything behind the subject will be in focus). Back up to 105 feet and zoom to 105mm f/5.6 to get the subject the same size and your DOF will be 77 ft total, and everything 50 behind will be blurred." CreationDate="2010-12-23T13:15:42.160" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7296" PostId="4690" Text="@Fake Name: I beg to differ but then YMMV. One of the important motivations for offering pirated software is to spread trojans. That is where the money is. But given the tone of your comment I doubt we will agree. However we should not let that obscure the more important argument, namely there are significant ethical and legal objections to using pirated software." CreationDate="2010-12-23T13:56:27.443" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="7297" PostId="5982" Text="+1 for Lightroom, for tinkering with RAW's it's fantastic" CreationDate="2010-12-23T16:09:52.010" UserId="2806" />
  <row Id="7298" PostId="5945" Score="2" Text="My intent certainly wasn't Nikon-beats-Canon. I own and shoot with Canon gear, so I know the situation better. But I'm looking at investing in some expensive glass, and future compatibility is a big concern to me, and one of the factors that makes me consider going Nikon." CreationDate="2010-12-23T19:40:22.423" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="7299" PostId="5979" Text="Welcome, Kristen. Sorry that your first question wasn't a match - we hope you'll stick around anyway!" CreationDate="2010-12-23T20:47:54.000" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7300" PostId="5969" Score="1" Text="I like shooting JPG plus RAW, because most of the time it is convenient just to have the JPG to review and/or email or upload, and still have the RAW if I want to do more extensive post-processing.  I was just looking for a way to quickly review and then delete the JPG+RAW simultaneously for photos that aren't worth saving at all." CreationDate="2010-12-23T21:00:32.720" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="7301" PostId="5879" Text="Sorry, I didn't realize you are adjusting the contrast with a slider. You need to use advanced tools for that: Levels and Curves. &quot;Local contrast&quot; is different from &quot;contrast&quot;, but not essential in this case. Go to this site first http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm, and read the tutorials on levels and curves (the title suggests that they are Photoshop specific, but every decent tool has them, including many free tools). Actually, it is really worth it to read all of the tutorials on that site. I'll post the curve I used on the sheep so you can see how it is done. " CreationDate="2010-12-23T21:53:31.657" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="7302" PostId="5989" Score="1" Text="Are you adjusting the white balance? Sometimes it is good to purposely find a white object in the lighting just to be sure you are getting a good white balance. I am assuming you are shooting in RAW." CreationDate="2010-12-23T22:27:16.177" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7303" PostId="5989" Text="I do adjust the white balance when I can, yes. But my camera doesn't support RAW; I should note that in my question." CreationDate="2010-12-23T22:32:05.657" UserId="343" />
  <row Id="7304" PostId="5989" Score="2" Text="doesn't CHDK add RAW capability?" CreationDate="2010-12-23T23:16:45.467" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7305" PostId="5989" Text="Yes, it does. I haven't tried it though." CreationDate="2010-12-23T23:29:15.280" UserId="343" />
  <row Id="7306" PostId="5963" Text="It seems to me that this is a different question.  It would be nice to have the original asker flesh out the details a bit more with some examples, but I'm guessing they're looking for things like tagging what area of the photo contains, say, an apple, or a boat, or some other arbitrary object.  And it sounds like they'd like to tag the geography of such object, not just that it's in the photo... which does mean the other answer may be provide a &quot;no&quot;, even here.  :-/" CreationDate="2010-12-24T00:09:07.133" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7307" PostId="5945" Text="I see Canons ef-s lenses mentioned in a negative context (which makes sense, it's low end mostly plastic gear) but nikon is praised as if didn't have a similar line of hardware: DX lenses." CreationDate="2010-12-24T05:35:07.167" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7308" PostId="5993" Text="@Pearsonartphoto: Christmas lights on houses or Christmas lights on a Christmas trees?" CreationDate="2010-12-24T06:39:13.180" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7309" PostId="5993" Score="1" Text="I am guessing that people will respond with many different ideas, but a common and in my opinion nice way, is interesting foreground subject, with the lights as bokeh behind." CreationDate="2010-12-24T07:01:42.677" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7310" PostId="5879" Text="Thank you for the extra explanation. It's much appreciated!" CreationDate="2010-12-24T07:37:21.420" UserId="2435" />
  <row Id="7311" PostId="5993" Text="Could you be more specific about the problems you're having, and perhaps post some examples?" CreationDate="2010-12-24T09:28:46.010" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7312" PostId="5996" Text="I really like the second shot." CreationDate="2010-12-24T12:01:00.500" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7313" PostId="5993" Text="A tripod is, regardless, a good thing to have and a good place to start. Don't cheap out on the tripod, cheap ones will transmit way too much vibration and not help you as much." CreationDate="2010-12-24T12:03:58.563" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7314" PostId="5998" Score="1" Text="I agree with your definition (as does Wikipedia). So to someone shooting star trails a long exposure may mean hours (long enough to blur the motion of the stars), while to a sports photographer long exposure may mean 1/60 of a second (if that is long enough to blur the motion of someone running)." CreationDate="2010-12-24T12:56:08.567" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7315" PostId="5993" Text="Let's do either, both on the Christmas tree at out on people's homes. This is really intended as a more generic question for those of us who might want to get some cool shots of Christmas lights soon." CreationDate="2010-12-24T14:37:18.460" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7316" PostId="6007" Text="so then how can i get a dof effect with my d7000 kit?" CreationDate="2010-12-24T16:29:37.710" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7317" PostId="6007" Score="4" Text="f/5.6 is wide open for the lens at that focal length, so the DoF will be more shallow than if you stopped it down to say f/8, but it won't be as shallow as it would with a faster lens or a bigger sensor. Kit lenses are designed for general consumer shooting, e.g. friends, family, tourist attractions, and the like." CreationDate="2010-12-24T16:38:50.947" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7318" PostId="6006" Score="3" Text="This is pretty well covered in your previous questions!" CreationDate="2010-12-24T16:58:59.453" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7319" PostId="6006" Score="3" Text="Also, it's nothing Nikon-specific. " CreationDate="2010-12-24T16:59:38.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7320" PostId="6006" Score="3" Text="And third, the effect you are looking for is *low* DOF. " CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:02:32.023" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7321" PostId="6008" Text="can you point me to these lenses?" CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:09:18.283" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7322" PostId="6006" Text="@mattdm. yes and im trying to follow the advice in my previous post but i am not getting the effect. i was hoping to get mor nikon specific details here instead of general photog advice on how to get a small DOF." CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:11:02.433" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7323" PostId="6008" Text="Sure, I added more to my topic. I guess small is a relative term, Nikon lenses are more expensive then Canon's, which I'm more familiar with... Still, you should be able to find something that'll catch your eye on the Nikon site, just pay attention to lenses with 2 F/#'s listed." CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:22:18.427" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7324" PostId="6006" Score="3" Text="But it's important to understand that this is very fundamental, and that Nikon isn't some weird special universe — the general advise is right for Nikon and for everything else. The specific models of lenses are different but the properties of those lenses follow the same rules." CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:33:46.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7325" PostId="6008" Text="Also the cheap 50mm f/1.8 which people suggested in previous questions. And the 35mm f/1.8 (Which gives a more-generally-useful &quot;normal&quot; field-of-view.)" CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:37:59.840" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7326" PostId="6008" Text="Sure, I've got them added as well." CreationDate="2010-12-24T17:50:22.587" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7327" PostId="5992" Text="Sorry but this question does not mean much. The viewfinder and display are completely different things. You do not need to turn on the viewfinder and the display will turn on as needed when you use the camera. Pressing the info button while also cycle through various display modes, showing you different things until you see what you are looking for." CreationDate="2010-12-24T19:25:58.787" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7328" PostId="6006" Text="I'm normally a Canon guy, today marked my first steps at looking at Nikon lenses. At first my answer assumed exactly what mattdm just said, but I've learned something. There really are differences in the two. At least, in the 100mm range, Canon makes several lenses for less then $700 that would fit exactly what the original poster wanted, namely 100mm at F4 or better. Nikon, well, doesn't have as many choices... I find that surprising actually, Nikon's bodies from what I hear are slightly better for beginners. Still, the differences are generally small, so..." CreationDate="2010-12-24T19:45:39.183" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7329" PostId="5994" Text="wow, perfect. thats did it. i know i tried that earlier but the screen didint show anything... oh well, i got it now. thanks" CreationDate="2010-12-24T19:59:22.657" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7330" PostId="5992" Text="prior to viting down try helping. anyway thanks to rfuska !" CreationDate="2010-12-24T20:00:48.880" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7331" PostId="6017" Text="That might not result in smaller DOF. See the earlier posts. " CreationDate="2010-12-24T21:23:26.517" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7332" PostId="6017" Text="I have seen the earlier posts. And I've taken several tens of thousands of photographs over the years (including a stint as a professional) -- enough to have learned what *really* affects DoF. It boils down to distance, aperture and the final magnification factor (the final size of the image). Lens length only applies as it relates to the magnification factor." CreationDate="2010-12-24T21:28:37.707" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7333" PostId="6006" Score="1" Text="As you pointed out, the lens is f/5.6 when zoomed in, the only way to change that is buy a different lens." CreationDate="2010-12-24T22:11:47.577" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7334" PostId="5994" Score="2" Text="@kacalapy - If that worked, it probably appropriate to mark this as accepted then." CreationDate="2010-12-24T22:12:06.577" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7335" PostId="6006" Text="Can you post a sample photo, one that doesn't have a shallow enough DOF?  " CreationDate="2010-12-24T22:13:25.547" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7336" PostId="6007" Score="1" Text="The way to get a DOF with this lens is to shoot at 105mm, f/5.6, have your subject be maybe 6ft from you, and have nothing close behind them.  If you take a photo like that, and it doesn't exhibit shallow DOF, please post it so we can help!" CreationDate="2010-12-24T22:14:32.240" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7337" PostId="6019" Text="Great examples!" CreationDate="2010-12-25T00:23:56.080" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7339" PostId="6021" Text="Welcome, Hunter! Typically we want questions here to be specifically related to photography, not just image editing; if your question is photography-related, perhaps you could edit it a bit to clarify that relevance?" CreationDate="2010-12-25T02:12:43.500" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7340" PostId="6023" Text="Yeah, i've been using gimp's black/white opacity mask" CreationDate="2010-12-25T04:31:17.423" UserId="2823" />
  <row Id="7341" PostId="6021" Text="@Reid: Am I mistaken to think that this site is called &quot;Photography &amp; Photographic Editing&quot;?  Sure, we don't know for certain that what this person is editing is a photograph, but certainly the gimp is a tool that is used for Photographic Editing.  I don't see why this deserves a down-vote." CreationDate="2010-12-25T05:16:02.127" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7342" PostId="6021" Text="There is a graphics site that will start in 2011 as part of area51" CreationDate="2010-12-25T06:38:58.767" UserId="2823" />
  <row Id="7343" PostId="6002" Score="1" Text="Don't be afraid to use that famous 'M' mode, either; often in very contrasty scenes, the meter can be way off in either direction, so manual is the way to go. If you're intimidated, start off with an automatic mode, see what settings the camera chooses, and use those as a starting point." CreationDate="2010-12-25T07:01:24.387" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7344" PostId="6026" Score="3" Text="While it is true that focusing really closely to the subject is important for macro photography, keep in mind that a longer focal length allows you to focus further away while still getting a similarly sized object in frame. This is important for taking macro photos of live insects, for example. " CreationDate="2010-12-25T19:48:18.130" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="7345" PostId="6026" Text="@rm999: yes - for the purpose of my question I was assuming a constant focal length. Do you have a recommendation for a focal length used for photographing insects and/or flowers?" CreationDate="2010-12-25T20:05:54.307" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7346" PostId="6027" Text="Thanks! I realized I can find this number now if I look at the &quot;tech specs&quot; of lens. I've noticed some of the specialized lenses have a MFD of 1 ft." CreationDate="2010-12-25T20:06:59.453" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7347" PostId="6027" Score="2" Text="@Tom - Don't pay attention to the word 'Macro' if it does not come from a first party manufacturer (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc). Third party manufacturers often put it when they do not get nearly as close as others in terms of magnification." CreationDate="2010-12-25T21:29:17.883" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7348" PostId="6015" Text="Erik did not say what system he is using. This would be the perfect full-frame Nikon combo. For a cropped-sensor, there is usually a 16-50 or 17-55 or 17-50 F/2.8 (different for each brand) that would replace the 24-70. I know some who even do with a middle-range gap by going with a 16-35mm F2.8 as their wide option. Of course you always carry 2 cameras as well to not have to change lenses. That would be a no-no in fast-paced environments." CreationDate="2010-12-25T21:37:30.373" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7349" PostId="6027" Text="No flower icon on any of my lenses, but it is indeed listed in the tech specs as Minimum Focus Distance. " CreationDate="2010-12-25T21:46:52.913" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7350" PostId="6025" Text="Not a bad idea, but you have to make sure that two people aren't editing at the same time. Typically these programs aren't designed to handle external edits to their databases while they're running. If you can ensure that one person shuts down before another starts, then this might work well. " CreationDate="2010-12-25T22:35:27.860" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7351" PostId="6025" Text="Good point, thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-25T22:46:15.003" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="7352" PostId="5079" Text="In reading the manual for my PowerShot S90, I discovered that it does in fact have focus bracketing, a feature my 450D lacks." CreationDate="2010-12-25T23:51:35.487" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="7353" PostId="6016" Text="Also known as reflex lens or mirror lens." CreationDate="2010-12-26T02:21:03.090" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="7354" PostId="6026" Text="@Tom - For macro photography, it is often better to get further away from the subject rather than closer and still get a 1:1 magnification ratio. Sigma makes a nice 180mm 1:1 macro that gives you a better working distance than a 50mm macro. It's actually working distance that is of more use to you and greater working distance is quite handy with subjects like insects. Then, if you move on to water drops, not having your lens over the water pan is a bonus too! " CreationDate="2010-12-26T02:41:25.607" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7355" PostId="6027" Score="4" Text="Maximum magnification is equally, if not more important specification, as the focal length will play a large role." CreationDate="2010-12-26T03:39:58.373" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="7356" PostId="2407" Text="All of the rays being viewed in a telescope are not parallel. You can't tell me that the light from one side of the moon is parallel to the light from the other side of the moon." CreationDate="2010-12-26T04:56:36.913" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7357" PostId="2407" Score="1" Text="I believe the second paragraph of your answer is totally incorrect. Light from a single point still passes through every part of the lens in a telescope, and is focused to a single point on the image. Otherwise, the size of your aperture wouldn't matter at all - you might as well be using a pinhole." CreationDate="2010-12-26T05:07:19.930" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7358" PostId="6030" Text="Great info, thanks! I'm going to keep the other question as the answer because I was more interested in the minimum focusing distance than macro photography -- but this is still great :-)! I am going to read up more about this so maybe you will see another related question from me :-). You're absolutely right that the info is at the end of the manual -- a bit inconvenient but worth it to see what you're getting." CreationDate="2010-12-26T05:20:01.043" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7359" PostId="3928" Text="besides the answer below (kudos, Adam, for finding your own answer ;), another possible potion might be to just export some very small jpeg files, and then use other tools to go from there.  This all just gets me thinking more of various features for the tool I want, though... http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5329/open-source-highly-scriptable-photo-management-platform-for-power-users-like :)" CreationDate="2010-12-26T05:57:44.910" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7360" PostId="6021" Text="@Hunter: Welcome to Photo.SE. As Reid stated, we to prefer to keep the questions here on-topic. If your question is specifically related to photography, could you edit it to clarify exactly what you are doing? There may be a better way to achieve what you are trying to do. If your question is not related to photography, but is about general image editing, we'll need to close it, as it would fall in the off-topic category. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-26T06:30:51.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7361" PostId="6029" Text="Some dedicated macros are also zooms (to at least some degree anyway). See, for example, the old Minolta 3x-1x macro zoom. OTOH, it's not exactly a conventional zoom either." CreationDate="2010-12-26T10:34:49.110" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="7362" PostId="5226" Text="50mm is not a good starter unless she only want to do portrait shots. As Edgar pointed out a 28mm or a 35mm is a better option. " CreationDate="2010-12-26T12:34:20.423" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="7363" PostId="6029" Text="Sure, I'll get my comment corrected then..." CreationDate="2010-12-26T13:40:43.233" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7364" PostId="6015" Text="These two lenses work fine for full-frame cameras. If there's not much light and you're allowed to use it, flash it also great for freezing action." CreationDate="2010-12-26T16:48:40.693" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7365" PostId="6015" Text="I really dislike the 70-200 when shooting weddings, at least the Nikon version.  It is super heavy and extremely painful to carry around for hours on end.  I go with the 85mm f/1.8 instead.  Much smaller, therefore I can aim it at the end of five hours of lifting it." CreationDate="2010-12-26T19:22:52.260" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7366" PostId="3896" Text="Actually I found my display (Eizo CG303w) offers a mode switch which can be used to switch between AdobeRGB and sRGB which is very handy for browsing." CreationDate="2010-12-26T19:23:34.183" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="7367" PostId="5400" Text="I am not sure which picture you wanted exposure info on but if you hover your mouse over the picture you want and then click on the blue &quot;i&quot; that comes up you can see the exposure info for that image.&#xA;&#xA;As far as the fill flash goes, I had a speed-light flash on a light-stand (to the left of my camera, up closer by the subject) pointed at the subject that was triggered remotely to light up the front of him.  In other words, I exposed for the sun in the background and lit up the subject with the flash so he wouldn't just be a silhouette " CreationDate="2010-12-26T19:32:51.933" UserId="2496" />
  <row Id="7368" PostId="6039" Score="2" Text="I can't answer the question, but I will add that I have seen graphs of Pentax's in-body sensor-shift SR vs. shutter speed, and it's true that it continues to be effective at high shutter speeds — eventually it becomes pointless, but doesn't make things worse. " CreationDate="2010-12-26T19:45:23.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7369" PostId="6040" Text="I meant to add &quot;keywords&quot; to the wish list; edited to do so." CreationDate="2010-12-26T20:05:30.690" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7370" PostId="6040" Text="This is great info: matching up the equivalent features in each product. I'm going to try out those plugins you mentioned and hopefully post instructions on how to get it working." CreationDate="2010-12-26T20:07:56.973" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7371" PostId="6029" Text="Another dedicated macro &quot;zoom&quot; is the Canon MP-E 65mm 1x-5x macro zoom lens." CreationDate="2010-12-26T20:31:53.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7372" PostId="6021" Text="@lindes, see discussion in meta and feel free to contribute." CreationDate="2010-12-26T20:40:06.413" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7373" PostId="6013" Text="I have Canon bodies.  One of the cameras that Pete Souza was shooting with inside didn't have a flash.  Would it have been something faster than a 2.8?" CreationDate="2010-12-26T22:30:23.200" UserId="2483" />
  <row Id="7374" PostId="6034" Text="How does the new one look better? It looks almost exactly the same except with a lot more noise?" CreationDate="2010-12-26T23:08:19.017" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7375" PostId="6039" Text="Is it possible that the VR system in your lens is defective? I'm pretty sure that it's meant to be a foolproof system that can be left on under any circumstances." CreationDate="2010-12-27T00:09:00.057" UserId="2269" />
  <row Id="7378" PostId="6013" Text="He uses the 5D2 and mostly primes, especially the 35 1.4. Check out the Whitehouse Flickr stream, http://www.flickr.com/photos/whitehouse/ All the Exif data is left intact. The 70-200 will popup a few times in there. I've seen a 50 1.2 before." CreationDate="2010-12-27T01:29:50.753" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="7379" PostId="6029" Score="1" Text="It's not a zoom lens, it has a single focal length, with a manual focus. It'd be sweet to play with one of those:-)" CreationDate="2010-12-27T02:58:33.943" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7380" PostId="6045" Text="Could you provide a bit more information - for example, what exactly are the photos you've posted?  I see that some of them are distorted, but which came from where, and how did you get the other versions of what you posted?" CreationDate="2010-12-27T03:48:54.560" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7381" PostId="6045" Text="The photos I posted are taken by myself on my Nikon d40x. Both of them were taken from my computer - which I copied from the Nikon. I Both of the pics are not the exact same pic, but I was just snapping multiple pics of my son - and that's how these came out. So I want to know how I can fix them." CreationDate="2010-12-27T04:20:32.397" UserId="2837" />
  <row Id="7382" PostId="6045" Score="2" Text="I think your *images* are distorted, not your questions. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-27T04:32:36.173" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7383" PostId="6045" Text="I agree mattdm. Do you have any idea how I can fix them ?" CreationDate="2010-12-27T04:41:16.217" UserId="2837" />
  <row Id="7384" PostId="6046" Text="thanks may I know what is it called? I need it to use with my ring flash." CreationDate="2010-12-27T05:03:02.973" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="7385" PostId="6046" Text="Sorry, I wasn't quite clear. These *are* third-party ring flashes that are compatible with the Nikon system. They won't help with your Sunpak flash." CreationDate="2010-12-27T05:21:48.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7386" PostId="6004" Text="The test photos on this page - http://www.phototestcenter.com/html/tamron_70-300_tests.html - seems to indicate as much." CreationDate="2010-12-27T06:16:43.653" UserId="2394" />
  <row Id="7387" PostId="6045" Text="marcamillion, The second image is unrecoverable, unless the issue was with your computer or card reader — there is no information left in that photo, just the flat gray. You might be able to fix the first image by cut/pasting the blocks around and adjusting their color to match the rest… But it’s probably easier to go take some more photos of your son after you’ve determined what caused the problem in the first place." CreationDate="2010-12-27T06:19:39.897" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="7388" PostId="6046" Text="pocket wizard is one option but I would really hope if i can make use of the CLS. :/ Getting pocket wizard defeat the rest of the purpose." CreationDate="2010-12-27T08:21:58.043" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="7389" PostId="6039" Text="@mattdm, yep, thats in body IS, which is a totally different beast from in lens IS." CreationDate="2010-12-27T08:54:10.120" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="7390" PostId="6041" Text="The pictures I have woes with have been composed very slowly, taking care of focus and light using half-shutter-press since I don't use the D90 for daily shooting I've been extra careful this time." CreationDate="2010-12-27T09:04:55.560" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="7391" PostId="6044" Text="Is this a fashion type ringflash or one designed for macro photography? And do you intend to use it for portraits or macro? " CreationDate="2010-12-27T09:40:01.773" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7392" PostId="6046" Text="Pocket wizards only transmit CLS signals, you still need a CLS aware flash which yours most likely isn't I'm afraid. What aspect of CLS were you hoping to benefit from? " CreationDate="2010-12-27T09:42:24.720" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7393" PostId="6044" Text="@Matt this is a fashion type ringflash. I intend to use for portrait." CreationDate="2010-12-27T09:48:55.583" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="7394" PostId="6059" Text="Good point! (I knew I'd miss something obvious). " CreationDate="2010-12-27T10:22:08.320" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7395" PostId="6031" Text="I ordered a cheap knock-off to the Canon ACK-E2 when I saw the first responses. Arrived before my photo-shoot, and once all the plugs and cables where duct-taped together to stop them falling out, it solved the problem perfectly." CreationDate="2010-12-27T12:47:16.613" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="7396" PostId="6059" Text="Agreed, though electronic viewfinders are not rare on the mirrorless cameras and they are becoming quite common." CreationDate="2010-12-27T13:45:50.873" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7397" PostId="6024" Text="If you use the online storage that two of the answer here suggest: beware! Once online, it will never be deleted for sure." CreationDate="2010-12-27T13:52:09.700" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7398" PostId="6051" Text="+1 for SmugMug. They have a great service in general." CreationDate="2010-12-27T14:11:41.517" UserId="144" />
  <row Id="7399" PostId="6059" Text="I should have stated that when I use the term viewfinder in my answer I am referring to optical viewfinders. EVFs convey the same advantages and disadvantes of LCD screens except for viewing in direct sunlight where they are much better than LCD screens." CreationDate="2010-12-27T14:25:52.780" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7400" PostId="6057" Text="Sounds like the same problem with mirror slap when shooting long lenses from a tripod. It doesn't show up in longer exposures as it's very brief but if the exposure is just short enough you'll catch the vibration in your photos. If the stabilisation mechanism makes a series of extremely short movements that get smoothed out by longer exposures, you may just catch it moving using a fast shutter. Worth knowing!" CreationDate="2010-12-27T14:30:39.653" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7401" PostId="6048" Text="+1 - I have to agree, it looks like the SD card needs replacing. I've seen similar issues with bad hard drives in the past when the file data gets corrupted by bad sectors." CreationDate="2010-12-27T14:41:42.330" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7402" PostId="6046" Text="Thanks for the confirmation. " CreationDate="2010-12-27T15:39:24.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7403" PostId="6066" Text="This is something I must try after the temperature gets a bit higher! At 80 kmph and -20 °C it would be somewhat equivalent to -40 °C, which would probably kill the old battery in no-time :D " CreationDate="2010-12-27T16:12:58.573" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="7404" PostId="6066" Text="Good point! :o)" CreationDate="2010-12-27T16:30:07.630" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="7405" PostId="6048" Text="Yeah, looks definitely like damaged JPGs." CreationDate="2010-12-27T16:44:02.933" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7406" PostId="6058" Text="Great list. I think that most DSLR's won't let you change the focusing screen to a split screen type. More often when talking about the entry level ones, but sometimes the pro level ones are limited with this respect. I wish my EOS 7D would have that option." CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:06:02.250" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7407" PostId="6067" Text="I think you mean “one other possibility.”" CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:18:34.330" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="7408" PostId="5988" Score="1" Text="Thanks!  That's a great explanation of stacks.  Also do you find that your libraries get to be too large to move around if you keep the images in the library?" CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:27:29.693" UserId="2779" />
  <row Id="7409" PostId="6058" Text="There are many third party focus screens made for mid range Canons, check out http://www.katzeyeoptics.com/item--Canon-7D-Focusing-Screen--prod_7D.html" CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:58:49.317" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7410" PostId="6045" Text="Do the pictures look the same on the camera or only on the computer after import? Did you try to re-import them? Does all of your images suffer from this data corruption?" CreationDate="2010-12-27T18:13:36.800" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="7411" PostId="6019" Text="thanks for the example, this is getting all clear for me, but one issue remains. physics... how large is your room in these examples? cause with the subject 6 feet from me and the background 10 feet back thats a total of 16 feet required to get a nice shot. the million dollar question is how do i get shots like this in a 10 foot long room?" CreationDate="2010-12-27T18:41:06.017" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7412" PostId="6008" Text="checking them out now, thanks. @personartphoto" CreationDate="2010-12-27T18:44:01.117" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7413" PostId="6006" Score="1" Text="I don't understand the downvotes here.  Understanding this sort of thing is why this site exists, imo." CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:05:52.000" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7414" PostId="6006" Text="Your most recent edit is probably best suited for http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/. If you don't understand answers or want further clarification on something, generally adding comments or adding to the same question is better. When you ask it again in a slightly different way, it's not nice to the people who put effort into answering you the first time. " CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:08:02.297" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7415" PostId="6072" Score="2" Text="I *highly* doubt that Nikon chose to label their lenses with a pejorative term like that. More likely that's an after-the-fact joke explanation made by a clever but unhappy customer. " CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:13:55.227" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7416" PostId="6072" Score="2" Text="In this context the G(elded) lens is also a D. See http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikortek.htm#g ... Ken also explains the other limitations of G." CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:18:56.860" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7417" PostId="6071" Score="3" Text="Duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-does-all-those-parts-in-a-lens-name-mean" CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:21:06.673" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7418" PostId="6074" Score="2" Text="Look for &quot;tone mapping&quot;. " CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:45:43.917" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7419" PostId="6074" Text="Answer depends on what tool you'll be using for the job, really..." CreationDate="2010-12-27T19:48:45.023" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7420" PostId="6074" Score="2" Text="Also, I'm not sure what &quot;high end&quot; means in this context. " CreationDate="2010-12-27T20:04:40.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7421" PostId="6074" Score="1" Text="This looks like an HDR (high dynamic range) image: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging" CreationDate="2010-12-27T20:53:25.963" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7422" PostId="6017" Score="1" Text="Whether you're better off zooming in depends on the subject size, if you're anywhere near the hyperfocal distance zooming out will massively *increase* the depth of field. For most subjects (people included) teles tend to work out better (that's the result of my experience after hundreds of thousands of exposures). At the end of the day, the 18-100mm kit lens is **not** good for doing shallow depth of field portraits. " CreationDate="2010-12-27T21:10:03.530" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7423" PostId="6074" Score="1" Text="+1, the question might be unformed, but I don't see any sense in downvoting a beginners question in photo-editing." CreationDate="2010-12-27T21:37:16.070" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7424" PostId="6082" Text="Oh, I didn't mean large aperture in general.  I just wondered if it's typical for lenses that have high aperture *in general* to be &quot;slower&quot;.  Maybe I'm not explaining myself right, with terms like slow and fast and such." CreationDate="2010-12-27T22:15:59.243" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7425" PostId="6081" Score="4" Text="Are you half-pressing to focus and meter, or are you going from nothing and pressing all the way down? If you are half-pressing, is the slow part there, or from half to full?" CreationDate="2010-12-27T22:28:08.817" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7426" PostId="6080" Text="@mattdm - Thanks for the edit. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-27T22:42:45.457" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7427" PostId="6086" Score="7" Text="I have that lens and the IS is *not* a gimmick." CreationDate="2010-12-27T23:30:20.340" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7428" PostId="6086" Score="4" Text="I have Canon 24-70 f/2.8 and when my low-light pictures are blurred it's either because of subject movement or because AF does not catch up. Therefore I guess IS would be of little use, not to mention that the lens is expensive and heavy enough even without the IS." CreationDate="2010-12-28T00:53:53.580" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7429" PostId="6089" Score="4" Text="+1 - Where else to learn but at the best Q&amp;A site for photography!" CreationDate="2010-12-28T01:02:51.957" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7430" PostId="6086" Score="1" Text="I have to agree, I doubt that IS will make much difference for such a lens, if at all." CreationDate="2010-12-28T01:05:22.173" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7431" PostId="6072" Text="While I tend to agree with Matt about the naming, I do think it's an apt description for it." CreationDate="2010-12-28T01:09:31.127" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7432" PostId="1951" Text="For beginners, nothing beats John Greengo's course at CL!" CreationDate="2010-12-28T01:21:24.823" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7433" PostId="6071" Text="This is definitely a duplicate of the question matt noted. I'm closing as a duplicate." CreationDate="2010-12-28T01:56:18.513" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7434" PostId="6088" Score="6" Text="If he's new to photography 98.27% of what he'll want to learn is general photography info (shutter speed, depth of field, lighting, composition) that isn't specific to the 1000D.  For 1000D info, the manual is going to be the best bet.&#xA;&#xA;Also, 67.4% of statistics are made up on the spot." CreationDate="2010-12-28T01:58:48.900" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7435" PostId="6086" Score="2" Text="I'll go ahead and disagree and say that IS helps a lot with my shakey hands at those focal lengths.  Even for my ultrawides if I want to handhold with smaller apertures/low ISO with slow shutter speeds." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:08:38.010" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="7436" PostId="6090" Text="Yes, I'm particularly interested in the f/2.8, I was thinking about the f/4 you mentioned as well..." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:13:58.717" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7437" PostId="6091" Text="Yea, it sounds like I shouldn't be worried that there is no IS/VR. I'm looking at this lens as my very first lens for my very first dslr. I've been doing the research and 24-70 just seems like an awesome, practical range to deal with. My gut tells me that at 18-55 I'll be yearning for a little extra zoom and that since this is my first camera I won't be missing much at the wide end of the spectrum. I am however, a bit concerned about camera-shake -- but I guess I should look forward to learning how to keep steady :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:21:25.167" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7438" PostId="6091" Text="I think my second lens will be either a 100mm macro or 70-200 telephoto. But I'm not ready for another lens for a while :-). I'm just trying to think ahead so it will help me pick my first camera." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:22:01.360" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7439" PostId="6086" Score="1" Text="+1 because I do like this answer -- but I do have a hard time with such a general statement that IS is a gimmick. Do you mean that in general or just for this particular lens? Then again, I really have 0 practical experience :-o. *But* it just doesn't seem consistent with what I've read on the web and this site." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:25:12.980" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7440" PostId="6080" Score="1" Text="Sorry but I see no evidence that in-lens stabilization is better than in-body stabilization. Of course Canon claims it is and I am certain we can get a similar claim for Nikon. Based on hundreds of tests I have performed, I cannot conclude either way. There are too many variables, types of movement, types of vibration, focusing distance, focal-length etc." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:35:20.820" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7441" PostId="6081" Text="What other lenses do you use?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:40:06.630" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7442" PostId="5890" Text="A sensible answer, thanks. I like that you mentioned it's important to keep the lenses in mind. At the time I posted this I don't think I realized this :-). (I'm still deciding what I want to get...)" CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:41:57.973" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7443" PostId="5889" Text="+1. Note: I've been holding off on accepting the answer until I actually get my camera :-). But I have done quite a bit of research now and I do like what you have to say.&#xA;&#xA;One thing I might change: you say that &quot;lower-priced entry-level cameras concern themselves with automatic modes&quot;. I'm not sure what you consider &quot;lower-priced&quot;, but all the cameras I have looked at have automatic modes: canon 60d, canon 7d, and nikon d7000." CreationDate="2010-12-28T02:46:18.593" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7444" PostId="5912" Text="I have to agree with @mattdm. Thanks for your answer, but I have trouble upvoting this so I'm just leaving it alone. I tried my friend's higher end camera and I found the controls more intuitive! (This is basically what @mattdm said). You second reason is not really a valid reason because in my question I said &quot;aside from cost&quot;. Also, you can look at it another way. If I buy I higher end model now, I may feel less inclined to upgrade the body later and I can spend the saved cash on more lenses :-). I think the weight/attention thing could be a valid concern though." CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:00:24.480" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7445" PostId="6080" Text="@Itai - I shoot Pentax, so I'm fully aware of the advantages of the in-body system, but the one you're missing is the viewfinder. Body stabilization cannot stabilize the view as you're composing and that is a huge advantage to anyone shooting long focal lengths. Sigma has realized this and has started adding stabilization to their lenses for Pentax and Sony. So, in my opinion, you're wrong and I seriously doubt that many would disagree. However, I'm sticking with Pentax for a host of other reasons..." CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:09:49.993" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7446" PostId="6081" Text="@mattdm ~ Sometimes I half press, sometimes full press.  It seems to get caught up on the first part, or if I go from nothing to all the way down.  It seems much worse if I go from nothing to all the way down, but that could be because when I do that I'm usually trying to catch a quick shot.  Once it's focused, the second half of the press is almost instant I believe (I'm trying to replicate the issue but of course it only does it some of the time!)&#xA;&#xA;@Reid ~ I have a Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 (kit lens) and a Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6" CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:12:54.577" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7447" PostId="6094" Text="Thanks!  I shoot in manual and have been shooting almost exclusively at f/1.8 since I got the lens, so it's not 1 or 3.  So now I just have to figure out if it's the focusing (which would be in the lens) or the shutter (which would be in the camera).  We *have* had the issue with our other lenses, but much less frequently, and we chalked it up to poor lighting or our own misunderstanding of the camera, because we noticed it mostly in the very beginning when we got the camera.&#xA;If it's the shutter activation, is that something that would be covered by the warranty?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:17:17.103" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7448" PostId="6092" Score="1" Text="I was going to post a similar answer... While IS (I'm less familiar with VR, but I presume the story is similar) has certainly been around for a while (e.g. the EF70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM got it in 2001), the 24-70 was only a year later, and probably considered to be not worth it to add IS... *then*.  In the *next* release, I would guess it to be likely.  And so say the rumors, as well: e.g. http://www.dentonimages.com/rumors.php?rumor=Canon%20EF%2024-70mm%20f2.8L%20IS%20Mk%20II%20Lens" CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:30:34.617" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7449" PostId="6080" Text="@john - I guess I used the wrong word, sorry. I meant 'effective'. 'Better' is more subjective. The stabilized view seems like a nice advantage but I doubt it has anything to do with being better at stabilizing movement. I think the Pentax system particularly has more degrees of freedom compared to lens based stabilization but even knowing that I have seen no evidence that it is more effective.... and I did spend quite some time testing those systems." CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:32:31.190" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7450" PostId="6080" Text="@Itai - Better is, of course, subjective. One could argue that the Pentax/Sony option is &quot;better&quot; because it stabilizes all lenses, but that's part of the picture. When I compare the system of stabilization, lens versus body, then I just compare what each offers directly. In terms of stops, that depends on the person, and so I suspect that they generally are within range of each other, but the optical viewfinder equation is then a distinction that cannot be matched by Sony or Pentax, hence the &quot;better&quot; designation I give it. Obviously, Pentax/Sony wins when the lens doesn't have that. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:37:36.250" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7451" PostId="6080" Text="@Itai - Just to continue... Slap a 400mm lens onto a camera and decide then. When you don't have stabilization in the lens, the minute shake in your hand is magnified dramatically in the viewfinder. The end result may be equal, but in terms of composing the shot, it is not and that means, for those of us shooting Pentax, that there is a little more luck that needs to happen in the final result." CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:42:05.813" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7452" PostId="6080" Text="@john - I do regularly shoot Pentax and other brands too. I used to have a 300mm lens, my longest. I sold it when I realized that I used it 3 times in 3 years. I tell people I can't see far enough to know what to point it at ;) On the other hand, I liked the Shake-Meter on the Konica-Minolta and now Sony systems. It really helps knowing when stabilization is achieved." CreationDate="2010-12-28T03:49:48.727" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7453" PostId="5889" Text="By &quot;automatic&quot; modes, I mean fully automatic where you have no control, and specifically &quot;scene modes&quot;. And, I think the difference is in where the focus of the camera lies. On my Pentax, one of the neatest things is that when you're in &quot;P&quot; mode, turning the front or back dial changes you into shutter- or aperture-priority mode. So even in automatic, the emphasis is on control. " CreationDate="2010-12-28T04:17:03.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7454" PostId="6081" Text="I've also noticed slow focus with the 35 AF-S, especially in low light. It's almost impossible to take a picture of something moving indoors. The AF assist light helps." CreationDate="2010-12-28T04:22:29.853" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7455" PostId="4049" Text="When you say that the f/1.4 has &quot;just as good if not better sharpness&quot; that seems slightly misleading and contrary to what @Matt Grum said. He suggests that the f/1.8 is sharper at 1.8. However, I don't think what you said/meant is wrong. It's probably true at the ideal aperture (e.g. - the review suggests f5) but cannot be said for the whole range of apertures." CreationDate="2010-12-28T04:52:01.810" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7456" PostId="2711" Text="Ha, that Creative Aperture Kit is interesting :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-28T05:42:09.110" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7457" PostId="6091" Text="It should be noted that cameras with cropped sensors (which is most) have a multiplying effect on lens focal length. Effectively speaking, 18-55mm on APS-C behaves like a 28-88mm lens on full frame cameras. So, if you get a Canon 550D, 60D, or 7D, the 18-55mm kit lens will pretty much be like the 24-70mm on a Canon 1Ds III or 5D II. The key differences will be build quality, weather sealing, and optical quality. It should also be noted that using the 24-70mm lens on an APS-C body would be like using a 38mm-112mm lens on a full-frame body. The 70-200 on APS-C is like 112-320mm on full-frame." CreationDate="2010-12-28T06:46:15.717" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7458" PostId="6091" Text="Another rather confusing facet of lenses is that despite the effective multiplier for focal length, using a lens on an APS-C camera will not introduce additional vibration. Using a 24-70mm on APS-C should incur the same amount of vibration as if it was used on full frame. This is due to the fact that APS-C is simply cropping the image circle projected by the lens...the image circle is identical regardless of the sensor format." CreationDate="2010-12-28T06:49:41.937" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7459" PostId="4049" Score="2" Text="@Tom: In my experience, the 50/1.8 is ok at f/1.8, and is at its sharpest at f/2.8. The 50/1.4, however, is razor sharp at f/2 and beyond. Additionally, the bokeh of the f/1.4 is smoother, which creates a better separation between in-focus and out-of-focus areas than the rather harsh bokeh of the f/1.8. This cleaner distinction between in- and out- of focus areas improves the sharpness of the f/1.4 beyond that of the f/1.8. The differences are subtle, but I prefer the look of the f/1.4 myself. " CreationDate="2010-12-28T06:55:26.660" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7460" PostId="6048" Score="1" Text="Turns out...it was the USB ports on my PC. Because when I connected my Nikon to my Macbook Pro, it copies all the images perfectly, and the above images came out nicely. So it is bitter sweet. Now I know what's wrong, it just turns out to be all my USB ports :|" CreationDate="2010-12-28T06:57:43.023" UserId="2837" />
  <row Id="7461" PostId="6066" Score="4" Text="Wind chill won't have much effect on a camera, as water (hopefully) isn't evaporating out of your camera. To a camera, at 80 kmph and -20 °C, it would be somewhat equivalent to -20 °C." CreationDate="2010-12-28T07:25:23.153" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7462" PostId="6086" Score="1" Text="**@tom, @nick** you've not read my answer properly before replying - *I never said IS was a gimmick* only that it was **partially** a gimmick, in that it will help the manufacturer sell lenses and give customers a reason to upgrade. This doesn't mean it's useless, just that the need to have it on the spec sheet for marketing purposes is **part** of the reason for including it. " CreationDate="2010-12-28T08:29:55.440" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7463" PostId="6086" Text="@Eruditass: It's probably matter of what subjects one tends to shoot. However, if you prefer shower shutter speeds there's already EF 24-105 f/4 IS." CreationDate="2010-12-28T11:11:33.863" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7466" PostId="6095" Score="2" Text="Not all pros use tripods.  24-70mm is useful for journalists for example." CreationDate="2010-12-28T13:01:06.203" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="7467" PostId="6098" Score="1" Text="I work in the newspaper industry in America, but I don't know enough about the UK newspaper industry to give a real answer. I'd suggest finding a few photographers at local newspapers to talk to and I'd try to get a real sense of the opportunities available -- both what kind of work you would end up doing and what kind of pay you could expect." CreationDate="2010-12-28T13:29:13.637" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="7468" PostId="6104" Score="1" Text="I can't read IPA. Can you add the IPA meanings for those vowel sounds to the answer, please?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:02:52.333" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="7469" PostId="6101" Text="While &quot;I pronounce bokeh 'Bo-keh'&quot; makes perfect sense, it is in no way helpful to me!" CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:03:49.763" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="7470" PostId="6102" Text="Nice link. It was a very interesting read. I also saw on wiki that it could also be pronounced &quot;boke-uh&quot;, like &quot;poke-uh&quot;, but that hasn't been mentioned by anybody here. What's the go with that version?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:09:44.317" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="7472" PostId="6107" Text="Could you clarify the units of your price range / budget?  I can assume that your 30,000 figure is not dollars..." CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:39:29.220" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7473" PostId="6107" Text="Right, its Indian ruppies..." CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:40:20.173" UserId="2107" />
  <row Id="7474" PostId="6107" Text="Anil, most people here are probably more comfort with US $ prices. Can you translate?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:46:45.217" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7475" PostId="4297" Text="If you're not going to make any edit adjustments, why shoot RAW?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T15:51:48.203" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7476" PostId="6107" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4114/21" CreationDate="2010-12-28T16:19:16.057" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7477" PostId="4297" Score="2" Text="I can't speak for Shizam, but the reason I shoot in RAW isn't so that I can edit every single photo I take, but so that I can have the RAW data in case I do need to adjust a photo beyond what I could do with the JPEG.  It's hard when shooting to know when you'll need to highly edit, so switching back and forth doesn't make sense (for me).  I don't mind the work to make minor adjustments to decent photos from RAW, so a program that outputs a nice JPEG from an only slightly modified RAW file would be nice." CreationDate="2010-12-28T16:25:28.770" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7478" PostId="6091" Text="Thanks for the info. I've actually already accounted for the fact that I am going to get an APS-C body. I've only ever tried APS-C bodies so I only know what an 18-55mm looks like on them and think that I prefer 24-70 with a cropped sensor. It's true that if I ever upgrade the body to a full frame that my lenses will seem different. But that's ok and I'll cross that bridge when I get there :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-28T16:26:12.110" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7479" PostId="5996" Text="I also practice what I preach: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/549/weekly-featured-image-for-december-27-2010/550#550" CreationDate="2010-12-28T16:51:35.777" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="7480" PostId="6075" Score="1" Text="What exactly are y, x, and v?  Are you sure you want to use the sine and not the tangent?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T17:58:46.777" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7481" PostId="6110" Score="3" Text="+1 SnapSort looks good, but I'm not sure about placing the Pentax K-5 as entry level and the Canon 60D as professional... That tends to make me question their accuracy." CreationDate="2010-12-28T18:01:41.423" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7483" PostId="6102" Text="@Shabbyrobe: It should always be pronounced /bɒkɛ/ (bo·keh) and never /boʊk/ (boke) or /boʊkə/ (boke·eh)." CreationDate="2010-12-28T18:36:04.077" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="7484" PostId="6080" Text="Looking through an unstabilised viewfinder on a long lens for a few hours is exhausting.  Much easier with a stabilised lens, but bring an extra battery!  Whether it's worth while really depends on your usage." CreationDate="2010-12-28T19:19:14.630" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="7485" PostId="6094" Text="Pick a single focus zone and try to make it happen when there's plenty of contrast.  Remember, the wide zones need a line of vertical contrast and the tall zones are looking for horizontal contrast.  The square zone in the middle will find either." CreationDate="2010-12-28T19:25:12.397" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="7487" PostId="6117" Score="2" Text="If jrista didn't make it clear enough, I used to shoot TMAX 3200 with a one-stop push at pub-type gigs (effectively ISO/ASA 6400) using lenses with f/1.2 max apertures (absolutely necessary for manual focus under those lighting conditions) at shooting aperures that rarely went smaller than f/2. Stage lighting only looks bright relative to the darkness around it -- and musicians don't stay still." CreationDate="2010-12-28T20:07:15.840" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7488" PostId="6098" Score="1" Text="It should be noted that the answers to your other question will also apply for photojournalism. Spur-of-the-moment shots usually require faster lenses just like night/dark photography of concerts does. A full kit replacement would really be ideal if you wish to photograph both concerts and do photojournalism, as the kit you currently have is really not up to snuff for what you want to do." CreationDate="2010-12-28T20:41:32.470" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7489" PostId="6112" Text="The trigger voltage list is really a great effort, but I'd take the information there very carefully, as I assume most of the people who provided the input don't know that their DMM **cannot** actually measure the voltage correctly. See my answer to this question earlier." CreationDate="2010-12-28T20:42:11.913" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7490" PostId="6112" Text="@ysap - I don't disagree, hence the mention of Canon support. However, in this particular case, comments on various Canon forums and other websites back up the assertion that this flash is fine." CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:03:58.153" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7491" PostId="6065" Score="2" Text="I think given Whuber's superb answer, there are some basic rules of thumb that can give a photographer in the field some general useful approximations. They may not be perfectly accurate, however accuracy can be arrived at heuristically by tweaking the focus ring, once you know what in your scene is generally in the depth of field. " CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:06:41.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7492" PostId="6006" Text="Hi Kacalapy. Rather than reposting the same question over and over, there are other avenues that you can take to get some useful feedback. For one, there are comments to the question itself and each answer. You can use comments to discuss an answer or request more information. Second, we also have a chat room. You can see who is in it buy looking for its little widget to the right side of any page on these forums. I highly recommend you hop into chat and discuss your issues real-time if you are not getting the answers you need here." CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:10:12.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7493" PostId="5973" Score="1" Text="I think everyone is missing the point Stan is trying to make. They key point here is that to **keep the same framing**, a shorter focal length at a much closer distance will give shallower DOF than a longer focal length used at a greater distance. If we ignore framing, then what everyone has stated is correct...but to maintain identical framing with the minimum DOF possible, a wider lens with a *much* closer distance would be necessary." CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:16:35.980" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7494" PostId="5977" Text="I think what Stan is staying is correct...from a &quot;framing/composition&quot; perspective. Granted, the actual physical size of DOF can be an interesting technical discussion, but that isn't really the point of the question or the answers that should be provided. The point is to get the thinnest possible DOF for a particular framing of a subject, and what Stan has stated is correct. Using a wide angle lens with a wide aperture at a very close distance will produce the thinnest (most limited) DOF possible for a *particular subject framing*. " CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:19:01.093" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7495" PostId="5273" Text="Excellent shots there!" CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:19:14.123" UserId="3" />
  <row Id="7496" PostId="6112" Text="Well, from my experience with the Sunpak flash, Canon were reluctant to confirm the Rebel XT is high V safe, and just advised me to use a safe-sync or else I will damage the camera. In this case, thought, the OP has a canon flash so they may be more willing to cooperate." CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:42:19.063" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7497" PostId="6065" Text="I agree but given the choice of a good approximation and the actual answer I'd choose the actual answer every time! " CreationDate="2010-12-28T21:46:12.740" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7498" PostId="6066" Text="I stand corrected. Temperature is still rather low – but not THAT low, so driveshots are sooner possible." CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:03:23.187" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="7499" PostId="6113" Text="Thanks, Jay. Nice answer! I am not making VR/IS the deciding factor for which platform to pick. Rather, I'm trying to decide if a 24-70mm will be a good lens as my first one. I'm wondering if I'll regret not having image stabilization, but it doesn't sound like a big loss from what people are saying. Thoughts?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:10:27.500" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7500" PostId="6113" Text="Unrelated to this question, I *am* trying to decide nikon vs. canon. I'm a little bit torn. I am going to try holding the 60d, 7d, and d7000. I think I ruled out 60d. 7d seems better than d7000 but I think it seems like Nikon lenses are ultimately nicer so I may go Nikon. Also, d7000 is cheaper than 7d. Thoughts?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:14:38.710" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7501" PostId="6107" Score="1" Text="This is another very general equipment recommendation thread. We keep getting these, and they never really garner many really useful answers. These types of questions are also often susceptible to brand loyalty, which can greatly bias the answers provided. I will leave this question for now, but it may need to be closed, or at best converted to wiki. I suggest you do a quick search of our forums for similar questions, as we get this one a **lot**. Additionally, you might find that chatting real time in our chat (click &quot;Photographic Memories&quot; to the right) will be more beneficial." CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:30:11.093" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7502" PostId="6113" Text="I wouldn't say that all Nikon lenses are nicer, nor would I say all Canon lenses are nicer. Both lines of lenses are pretty much on par, with specific lenses from one brand being a bit better than the other at times. For example, Nikon's 14-24mm wide angle zoom is a superb lens, and many Canon users adapt it to work with their Canon bodies. The 16-35mm L II, however, is also a superb lens with fantastic optical quality. It is a little softer at the extremes than the 14-24mm, but that is likely due to it having a larger zoom range (2.2x vs. 1.7x). " CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:39:59.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7503" PostId="6113" Text="Lenses and lens quality are too complex to simply boil it down to &quot;Brand X is better&quot;, its far more complicated than that. One thing I will note is that Canon's EF mount is an extremely versatile mount. There are adapter rings for Canon FD, Nikon F, Leica R, and Pentax/Zeiss Contax M42 mounts. Additionally, it is also possible to mount many medium format lenses on EOS cameras, including Hasselblad, Mamyia, and Pentax 6x7. Not every lens from all of these mounts will work, but many of them do. If you like Nikon glass, you can mount many of them on Canon in stop-down mode with an adapter ring." CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:46:22.300" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7504" PostId="6092" Text="I did post a similar answer ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:47:40.837" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7505" PostId="6112" Text="I'd guess that people measure with an oscillograph/-meter.&#xA;&#xA;PS: Same as my answer, only with the correct link. Thank you, &quot;community&quot; for severely downvoting a obviously mis-pasted answer instead of silently deleting ..." CreationDate="2010-12-28T22:59:59.420" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7507" PostId="6112" Text="@Leonidas - what do you mean by &quot;same as my answer&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-12-28T23:28:00.320" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7508" PostId="6119" Text="Even at f/2.8 ISO 1600 on my Canon 50D, I can barely push more than 1/80th of a second for &quot;okay&quot; lit venues such as smaller ones. I high ISO capable camera would really work wonders if they didn't cost one million dollurs." CreationDate="2010-12-28T23:28:51.380" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7509" PostId="6119" Text="I think a decent high-ISO DSLR can be had for less than $1000 these days. Even with a kit lens. You will obviously get the best ISO performance with a camera that uses a larger sensor, like a full-frame DSLR, but there have been significant advancements in sensor design and signal floor, and even entry level DSLR's can handle 1600 or even 3200 ISO pretty well now." CreationDate="2010-12-28T23:56:10.210" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7510" PostId="6124" Score="2" Text="Out of curiosity, why do you want the most extreme zoom possible? The greater the zoom factor, the more likely you'll have optical quality issues. Zoom lenses, unlike prime lenses, must make trade-offs between optical quality and functionality...the farther you push zoom factor, the more extreme those trade-offs often have to be. If money if of no consequence, you can get some pretty amazing zoom lenses, but it will definitely cost, and it will never be ideal optical quality. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T00:01:13.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7511" PostId="6124" Score="2" Text="... and just to make it clear - do you really mean zoom, or (telephoto) focal length? Many newcomers mistake the two, thinking large zoom multipliers mean long telephoto range." CreationDate="2010-12-29T00:24:47.597" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7512" PostId="6124" Text="@Ysap: Zoom generally means a lens with a range of focal lengths, which can range form the ultra wide to the super telephoto in a single lens. I have never encountered a discussion where a zoom lens meant a telephoto lens specifically. An example would be the Canon EF 28-300mm superzoom, which ranges from 28mm wide through 300mm telephoto." CreationDate="2010-12-29T00:27:33.860" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7513" PostId="6124" Text="@jrista - the comment was meant for the OP. It seems to me that what he is looking for is really the most telephoto camera (&quot;Do not take photos in short distances&quot; - although he might mean &quot;macro&quot;), rather than the one with the extreme zoom range, so I asked for the clarification. That said, it is true that generally, the larger the zoom factor, the longer the tele end tends to get, especially with compact cameras." CreationDate="2010-12-29T00:43:36.873" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7515" PostId="6113" Score="1" Text="@Tom: As you might imagine, as a photography instructor I get the 'Canon or Nikon' question all the time. I mean... All. The. Time. ;-) It's important to remember that both Canon and Nikon equipment are capable of producing exceptional images. Both Canon and Nikon have a full range of very high quality lenses. A lot of students get 'caught in the chaff' of a zillion 'Canon vs. Nikon' debates by fanboys of various stripes that seem to litter the internet, but the thing I always tell folks is that there isn't a 'right' answer, except what is 'right' for you. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T00:53:49.167" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7516" PostId="6113" Text="...aaand I think the easiest/cheapest way to discover what is 'right' for you is to rent a camera from each of the 'camps' and try them out, because while both brands handle the 'business' of exposing an image (ISO, shutter speed, aperture), they go about it in slightly different ways. Some people like the 'feel' of how Canon does it... Some people prefer Nikon. Either one will get the job done (excellently), but the chattering of a thousand fanboys will fade to the background once you've tried both brands yourself. Check out sites like lensrentals.com if you don't have a local rental house..." CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:01:01.537" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7517" PostId="6079" Text="Very nice. Don't know if the OP looked for this, but I just tinkered with two pics and their lighting seemed to be right for this kind of mod :)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:24:40.333" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7518" PostId="6127" Score="1" Text="Enfuse has a nice frontend: Hugin ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:25:31.923" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7519" PostId="6112" Text="I did post &quot;If this is by any chance rather a &quot;277T&quot; it can be found with 4.8V (low enough) in this list here&quot; ... and f'ed up the link. Simple as that :) Post has been deleted of course, rightfully too, I just wanted to bitch around that people can't or won't recognize a simple mistake and downvote before." CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:28:27.143" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7520" PostId="6079" Text="@Leonidas - Yeah, the effects are interesting under the right circumstances and appear to hit what the OP wanted, but that's not assured. IMHO, it's better to do it with light when you can, but modern dSLRs are giving enormous dynamic range that allows for some substantial post-processing in this area." CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:45:31.267" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7521" PostId="6112" Text="@Leonidas - I agree with you. A down vote with a note to the mistake that is then cleaned up (and then up voted) is the way to go about these things. However, it's a young community and learning such things is a part of it, so stick with it and contribute, good answers will be rewarded over time and the scales will balance." CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:48:12.917" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7522" PostId="6113" Text="@jrista: Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound like I was trying to say one brand was better than the other. Part of the reason I find the decision to be tough is because they both are great. And really for someone like me the difference will be neither noticed nor fully appreciated :-).&#xA;&#xA;When I said that &quot;Nikon lenses are ultimately nicer&quot; I meant for the stuff I was looking at. I think the lenses I am most interested in acquiring are (in order?): 24-70mm f/2.8, ~100mm macro, 70-200mm f/2.8, and either 17-55mm f/2.8 or 50mm f/1.4." CreationDate="2010-12-29T02:14:56.620" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7523" PostId="6113" Text="@Jay - Thanks for the advice :-). Also, I liked your answer to the question so I've accepted it :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-29T02:16:37.553" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7524" PostId="6086" Score="1" Text="@Matt Grum: my apologies. I did misread. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T02:17:41.327" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7525" PostId="4499" Text="Thinking the problem was with the power switch, I've tried to off/on/off/on/off/on/off/on loop before. Maybe 10 or so cycles through off/on the last time within a couple minutes. That what you were thinking Brad?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T02:32:38.033" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7526" PostId="4537" Text="Not yet with the drobo. But I understand the concerns... having lost lots of time to RE'ing and recovering data from a proprietary 3rd party &quot;raid&quot; controller in the past. At this point my need for something that &quot;just works&quot; outweighs my need for something open that I can trust to always be accessible." CreationDate="2010-12-29T02:33:43.647" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7527" PostId="6124" Score="2" Text="Boy, I'm tempted to post this as my answer: http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2008/02/biggest-canon-t/. But I fear the downvotes :-o." CreationDate="2010-12-29T02:49:48.307" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7528" PostId="6102" Text="According to the IPA guide referenced by koiyu, *bo* as in *bone* means it *would* be pronounced &quot;/boʊkə/&quot;, and &quot;/bɒkɛ/&quot; would be more like *bo* as in *Bob*. Now I'm extra confused!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T03:06:22.623" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="7529" PostId="6050" Text="I know those ray flashes should work but what I have the problem now is the ringflash which I currently have does not work. I need a solution for this. thanks." CreationDate="2010-12-29T03:21:17.943" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="7530" PostId="6046" Text="@matt I was hoping to use my ringflash which attached to my main camera D90 to trigger together with an external nikon flash. that simple. I was asking if there is any CLS modules that can help me on this to support my ringflash." CreationDate="2010-12-29T03:23:48.473" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="7531" PostId="6107" Text="Closed as off-topic, as that was the best category based on discussions in meta. These types of questions are tough, as they are a dime a dozen usually. If you have more specific and targeted equipment recommendation questions, that can be clearly *answered*, we are glad to help. Such questions would include things like &quot;What lens would best serve me for journalistic photography?&quot; is a question we can answer or turn into a wiki, and it is far less likely garner answers loyal to a specific brand. Finally, this question was also a bit localized due to the currency used, US $ is better." CreationDate="2010-12-29T03:43:06.907" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7532" PostId="6019" Text="In a small room, if you're taking pictures of a person, you probably need a different lens to get this effect, perhaps the Nikon 50mm f/1.8." CreationDate="2010-12-29T04:09:33.583" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="7534" PostId="6124" Text="http://snapsort.com/explore/best-super-zooms/48-months-recent-25x-zoom" CreationDate="2010-12-29T04:53:31.847" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="7535" PostId="6113" Text="I'm trying to avoid VR lenses (I did even before I ran into problems on high shutter speeds): they are bigger, heavier, suck more power from your batterie and are more expensive, and all this for some benefit which usually only applies if you take pictures of not-moving-targets where you'd be better off using a tripod anyways. The only case where I find VR useful is lenses with 200mm and above, where the shutter speed is fast enough to freeze action even when it can't be hand-hold anymore." CreationDate="2010-12-29T05:21:43.923" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="7536" PostId="6124" Score="1" Text="Now I've realize it is very hard to clarify my question. I didn't knew nothing about telephoto and focal length but after reading some articles I've learned about perspective, magnification, etc. and I understand your questions. Let's say I want to &quot;discover&quot; subjects which are in a very long distance from myself. That's why I said I don't care too much about perspective or wide angle. As I've seen in this article http://www.digital-photography-school.com/why-you-need-a-telephoto-zoom-lens-for-landscape-photography , telephoto zoom lens are the best choice for me " CreationDate="2010-12-29T05:51:58.330" UserId="2860" />
  <row Id="7537" PostId="6126" Text="Thanks, that's very clear. However I don't know how lenses match with cameras... Is there a compatibility chart out there? How do you know they will &quot;fit/match&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T06:24:57.493" UserId="2860" />
  <row Id="7538" PostId="6106" Text="[Here's](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245292-REG/Wein_W990560_Safe_Sync_Hot_Shoe_to.html) a safe-sync device from B+H. If you trust your circuitry skills, you can also [build one yourself](http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/PDFs/FlashHighVoltTrig.pdf). I would highly recommend buying a commercially-made one; there's less chance of something going wrong and frying your camera." CreationDate="2010-12-29T06:47:52.883" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7540" PostId="6124" Text="@Ray Doyle: From that article, they are combining two terms that have distinct meaning. The term 'telephoto' refers to the focal length of the lens, and do the fact that the actual length of the lens is shorter than the focal length. The 'zoom' term refers to the fact that the recommended lenses use a range of focal lengths, rather than a single, fixed focal length. The combination of &quot;telephoto zoom&quot; means a variable-focal-length lens that can reach telephoto focal lengths. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T08:00:21.477" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7541" PostId="6124" Score="2" Text="Based on your question and comment, you are not necessarily looking for a &quot;zoom&quot; lens. You are looking for a lens or lenses that will give you &quot;far reach&quot;, or the ability to bring up close things that are far away. A telephoto zoom may only be telephoto at the long end, and could quite likely be very wide at the wide end. The 70-200mm lens, a popular telephoto zoom range, is a &quot;normal&quot; lens at the wide end, and short telephoto on the long end. It is, however, by no means the longest focal length you could get, and offers only moderate reach at 200mm. If you really want to get close: 400mm+" CreationDate="2010-12-29T08:02:11.270" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7542" PostId="6118" Text="thanks for the warning! I've got step 1 down to a t. Web developer :D" CreationDate="2010-12-29T09:51:30.353" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="7543" PostId="6116" Text="cheers Scott, good to see another Edinburgher on here!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T10:04:21.573" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="7544" PostId="5977" Text="@jrista The statement *&quot;Zooming out to get closer is the best way to limit DoF&quot;* is not universally true there are cases when you will get a larger DOF so I can't agree that it is the best way. It's true you mostly gain only magnification with a long lens however there is a point at which DOF increases when you zoom out to maintain subject size (I assume this is what you mean by &quot;same framing&quot;). At the end of the day the questioner is trying to get subject isolation. Telephotos are the best way to achieve this. When was the last time you saw a portrait with a 400mm that had a sharp background?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T10:45:38.463" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7545" PostId="6104" Text="Thank you for the update." CreationDate="2010-12-29T11:37:08.007" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="7546" PostId="6137" Text="Your question is only applicable for a very small geographic area and falls beyond the scope of this site. You're more likely to get a more useful answer by looking in your local business listings, or asking at your local, friendly, camera store." CreationDate="2010-12-29T12:36:55.630" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7547" PostId="6136" Score="1" Text="What camera and flash do you have? It may be the case that they are compatible." CreationDate="2010-12-29T12:40:48.733" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7548" PostId="6135" Text="Picasa has similar limitations with folders, etc.  Modifying 568 files date taken field one by one was something I'd rather not do. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T13:10:03.790" UserId="652" />
  <row Id="7549" PostId="6104" Text="No problem! Glad if it helps :)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T13:33:40.983" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="7550" PostId="2715" Text="@jrista:  Huh?  He died in 1888." CreationDate="2010-12-29T13:43:23.793" UserId="994" />
  <row Id="7551" PostId="6136" Text="The Camera is a Canon EOS 500D, and the flash is a Yashica CS-250AF" CreationDate="2010-12-29T13:54:20.023" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="7552" PostId="6126" Text="The Canon Powershot SX30 IS and Olympus SP-800 have their lenses built in, so there's no questions of compatibility for those two." CreationDate="2010-12-29T14:42:36.773" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="7553" PostId="6145" Text="what is the shutter speed needed to stop motion? lets say a water droplet in mid air, or a jumping dog, or a toy helicopter... what is the shutter speed needed to freeze a clear image of these subjects mid motion?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:08:59.083" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7554" PostId="6145" Score="1" Text="That varies quite a bit and it's actually more about the duration of light rather than shutter speed. For example, I shoot water drops all the time, but my shutter speed is usually 1 second, the room is very dark, and the flash is fired with a very short burst. This is what freezes motion. In any case, there is no pat answer to that, it definitely varies according to the subject and their current speed, but for moving animals, I generally try to get up above 1/500s or faster, especially if the light is good." CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:23:06.480" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7555" PostId="6146" Text="You might want to further define &quot;performance&quot;; it's a bit vague as-is." CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:23:48.943" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7556" PostId="6146" Text="For what camera? The question is pretty vague." CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:24:01.487" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7557" PostId="6145" Score="1" Text="@kacalapy: that's a good question to post separately... but by and large the answer is &quot;it depends on the speed of the object in motion.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:25:23.590" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7558" PostId="6102" Text="I'm sure the IPA is correct for the original Japanese word, but I've never heard anyone say it with the O making an &quot;ah&quot; sound in English. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:38:14.623" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7559" PostId="6121" Text="But am I picking up a British accent on a Japanese word? :-P" CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:40:16.650" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7560" PostId="6126" Text="@Ray - Anything that is called an ultra-zoom has its lens built-in, so no issues there. On the other hand DSLRs use separate lenses which is why you don't see (3X or whatever zoom on their box). They match with what is called a *mount*. Canon lenses will fit on Canon cameras, Nikon (called Nikkor) lenses fit on Nikon, etc. It's a little more complicated than that because there are other limitations. Companies like Sigma/Tokina/Tamron make lenses in various mounts so you have to buy the right one." CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:43:43.793" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7561" PostId="6126" Text="@Ray - If you are on the specification page of a camera at Neocamera (say http://www.neocamera.com/camera.php?id=239) and you click on the *Lens Mount* link (it's light blue), then you'll get a list of all lenses that fit. You can than click on the *Focal Range* header to sort them by focal-length. The bigger the number, the longer the reach." CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:47:06.363" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7562" PostId="6146" Score="1" Text="@Craig Walker  I meant to say was about noise, image quality, processing technology, or anything else. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:48:58.423" UserId="869" />
  <row Id="7563" PostId="6146" Text="@John Cavan I have a Canon EOS Rebel XS and want to buy a Nikon D3100." CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:52:01.477" UserId="869" />
  <row Id="7564" PostId="6147" Text="+1. However, I think you might have made a mistake in the last sentence? You say that the upgrade &quot;reduced the speed of the the autofocus&quot; in low light but it sounds like you meant for that to be a positive thing -- but &quot;reduce speed&quot; means &quot;make slower&quot; which is bad. Did you mean to say &quot;increased the speed&quot;?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:56:40.167" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7565" PostId="6129" Score="5" Text="Honestly, if you read your own question, you can figure out the answer by simply checking your assumptions. It sounds like you dislike paying for stabilization when YOU do not need it but those lenses are not just made for you... There are subjects that don't move and every stop of stabilization helps you get away without a tripod for that much longer. I mean, if you don't believe on using slow shutter speeds, I guess you don't have much use for tripods either." CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:07:49.717" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7566" PostId="6140" Score="6" Text="+1 just cuz I'm a sucker for measuring things :)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:25:22.200" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7567" PostId="6147" Text="@Tom, you are correct.  I changed 'speed' to 'lag' in the answer, thanks for the catch." CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:26:46.333" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7568" PostId="6119" Text="yeah to get a f/2.8 70-300mm is about 6 times more expensive than my 4-5.6 :(" CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:37:58.987" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="7569" PostId="6137" Text="NYC and NJ are small geographic areas?  This is some of the most densely populated areas of the US." CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:50:55.530" UserId="1968" />
  <row Id="7571" PostId="6152" Score="2" Text="Flash does not occur in a single instant. Its duration varies between 1/10000 and 1/1000 sec, depending on power." CreationDate="2010-12-29T17:58:07.597" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7572" PostId="6152" Text="Okay, sure, but that's a short enough time where it doesn't matter a whole lot..." CreationDate="2010-12-29T17:58:46.923" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7573" PostId="6121" Text="Slightly, yes, mostly on the 'o'...however how he says it is the correct way to say it. I've heard some local Coloradan's say it as well, and they say it the same way (although without the tinge of British, which isn't much.)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:24:11.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7574" PostId="6154" Score="6" Text="The Canon 550D has a 100,000 shutter actuation rating, like all the rest of the rebels back to the 450D. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:27:22.377" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7575" PostId="6133" Text="I definitely agree on the travel issue.  Not only are tripods weight but they're awkward." CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:49:09.283" UserId="1843" />
  <row Id="7576" PostId="6075" Text="@whuber: The x would be the distance to the scene, y is the height above the horison and v is the angle. I think that you might be right that it should be tangent instead of sine, I will look into that." CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:50:17.387" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="7577" PostId="6134" Text="I got a tolerable picture (the objective was to show the situation, not win awards) at 28mm effective, 4s exposure, braced but no tripod.  It's not perfect but there's a lot more depth of field issues than blur issues." CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:53:16.147" UserId="1843" />
  <row Id="7578" PostId="6158" Text="In the last paragraph, are you assuming that the focal length doesn't change? It seems to me that two shots where the subject is the same size (i.e. further away but longer focal length) would require the same shutter speed to freeze motion." CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:03:56.787" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7579" PostId="6140" Score="1" Text="Love the chart. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:08:26.990" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7580" PostId="6159" Score="1" Text="Looks tempura fried. MMMM!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:10:03.417" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7581" PostId="6155" Score="3" Text="+1 though, in your last example, shutter speed doesn't mean much, it's the light that freezes the subject. I do water drop macros all the time using a 1 second shutter speed in a dark setting and the flash is what freezes the drop (usually between 1/16th and 1/64th power)." CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:28:04.257" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7582" PostId="6152" Score="1" Text="@Pearsonartphoto - Not entirely. When dealing with subjects such as water splash macro work, you want the shortest light burst you can get to freeze the motion as longer light bursts will actually result in seeing motion blur in the subject." CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:30:15.003" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7583" PostId="6145" Text="Not sure how the config on D7000 are, but I would assume it has &quot;Auto iso&quot; like the older Nikons. This is a great feature. You configure the max allowed shutter speed and it will automatically increase ISO. Also, under really low light situations I would rather use P instead of S." CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:45:52.180" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="7584" PostId="6155" Text="Interesting point, never thought that way. Will do the test next time, thanks for the heads up! :o)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:00:04.763" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="7585" PostId="6094" Text="Based on your description above (that it's never the half-to-full press that's slow), it sounds like it's slow to focus. I wouldn't be surprise if that's just &quot;how it is&quot; on the D3000, particularly in low light. I would suggest you set up a tripod and try to make it happen (fully defocus manually and then switch to auto and try to find a scene that's troublesome). Then once you've ID'd that scene, you could post it and see if folks have advice. It would also be useful to try the same scene with your 18-55 set to 35mm (for an identical framing and distance)." CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:17:39.890" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7586" PostId="6154" Score="5" Text="For a ballpark figure, there are 86,400 seconds in a day. So not much more than a day at one exposure per second; adjust as needed for your desired interval." CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:20:05.750" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7587" PostId="6137" Text="@Rowland is right, though perhaps not particularly tactful in his explanation. Questions with a local-only scope are off-topic, even if it's a big local (though keep in mind that NYC and the surrounding metro, while a large city, is only a tiny fraction of the global population and area). Sorry!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:25:37.273" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7588" PostId="6155" Score="2" Text="It's fun to do, there's a write up on my website on the technique I use: http://www.grumpyjohns.com/?p=147 though I've started using my radio triggers rather than pressing the test button on the flash now, more reliable that way (I use off-camera flash for this)." CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:31:52.680" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7589" PostId="6137" Text="@Sajee That's still only about a ten mile radius, this website aims to cover subjects with a global reach" CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:32:11.020" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7590" PostId="6155" Text="Very nice post indeed, added the reference to the answer itself. Thanks a lot!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T20:46:58.453" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="7591" PostId="6155" Text="@André Carregal - You're quite welcome." CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:22:12.320" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7592" PostId="6167" Text="I'll second that.  And the D7000 has a screw focus, so you don't need the AF-S version.  You can get the standard 50mm f/1.8 really cheap.  If you find you need even more light / less DOF you can always trade it in for the f/1.4.  But if you're starting out, you'll need to learn how to really use focus properly before you can get sharp images at f/1.4 anyway." CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:32:30.727" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="7593" PostId="6167" Score="2" Text="Why would you choose a 50 before a 35 on a crop sensor? The Nikon 50 f/1.8 is cheaper, but the 35 has a more normal, 52mm equivalent field of view." CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:34:18.617" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7594" PostId="6167" Text="@EvanKrall - I'm just old school that way and, in my experience, lenses tend to hang around longer than cameras, so who knows in a few years time?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:39:13.640" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7595" PostId="6034" Text="Are these all shot on your compact? Because shooting RAW on a compact is a little pointless." CreationDate="2010-12-29T22:13:43.177" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7596" PostId="6169" Text="As usual, an excellent, in-depth answer!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T22:23:45.957" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="7597" PostId="6142" Text="yep my first thought when I read &quot;maximum reach&quot; in conjunction with &quot;image quality not important&quot; was mirror lens! Such a long focal length without a sighting scope would be almost unusable for most situations however, makes me wonder what the questioner has in mind!" CreationDate="2010-12-29T22:42:35.637" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7598" PostId="6158" Text="@Evan Krall: Good point. Yes, what I mean is how the object appears in the image, so the focal length of the lens would affect what shutter speed you need." CreationDate="2010-12-29T23:18:43.560" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="7599" PostId="6163" Text="85mm lens, not camera, yeah?" CreationDate="2010-12-29T23:38:01.117" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7600" PostId="5953" Text="thanks Matt. I went for the grafica pro tube light, which have a CRI of 98. the starters and chokes are costly indeed. " CreationDate="2010-12-29T23:39:21.943" UserId="2752" />
  <row Id="7601" PostId="6169" Text="@seanmc: Thanks. I try. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-29T23:44:17.160" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7602" PostId="6163" Text="Haha, thanks :)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T00:14:29.037" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="7603" PostId="6155" Text="@André Carregal - the limit on sync speed is the camera's limit, not the flash. It is usually around 1/250 sec in modern DSLRs. Few go slightly faster. Some camera-flash combinations allow you to set a High Sync Speed mode (or FP Sync, or similar name), where you can go to much higher shutter speeds, but in the tradeoff of reduced flash power. The last two images you presented suggest that the internal flash on your FZ18 actually support this feature." CreationDate="2010-12-30T01:17:39.203" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7604" PostId="605" Score="3" Text="Wouldn't DSLRs with live view and video capability already have these diodes?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T01:59:00.583" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7605" PostId="6153" Text="Awesome question!  I think a lot of people would be really curious about how these experiments work out ... the 550D has such a great sensor; time-lapse would be a great way to exploit it ... it be neat to know more about your tripod and set-up, the results you have, lessons you learn in the process, what you'd do differently ... I know I'd be interested -- thanks for asking the question!" CreationDate="2010-12-30T03:49:27.113" UserId="2745" />
  <row Id="7606" PostId="6179" Text="I've never even thought of this, since most lens apertures these days are solely controlled by the body, at least on Canon." CreationDate="2010-12-30T05:36:32.703" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7607" PostId="6184" Text="Apologies, however these forums are dedicated to photography and photographic editing specifically, not general image editing, video creation, etc. As such, I've closed this as off-topic. If you have a question specifically about photo editing (i.e. white balance, tonal editing, lens corrections, sharpening, etc.) feel free to ask them here." CreationDate="2010-12-30T06:43:31.937" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7608" PostId="6185" Text="I don't really see how Lightroom, which is software for a computer designed to edit photos, could have anything to do with the physical motor noise of a lens. Lens noise is part of the construction of the lens (and possibly camera body), and not something a piece of third-party software can change. If your lens is particularly noisy...you might want to look into getting a better lens...perhaps something with a silent ultrasonic type motor." CreationDate="2010-12-30T06:48:42.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7609" PostId="6102" Score="3" Text="Actually, the IPA is incorrect for the original Japanese word, and the &quot;bo as in bone&quot; description is accurate. Check it out on [Google Translate](http://translate.google.com/?hl=en#ja|ja|%0A%E6%9A%88%E3%81%91) (hit &quot;Listen&quot;)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T07:26:44.407" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7610" PostId="6104" Score="1" Text="I'm 90% sure the IPA given by Wiktionary is wrong, or we're reading the IPA incorrectly. See my comment on mattdm's answer." CreationDate="2010-12-30T07:32:33.000" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7611" PostId="6140" Text="Wow! I'd love to see one of those for in-lens-IS, which is said to be quite different from in-body-IS." CreationDate="2010-12-30T07:33:28.317" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="7612" PostId="6188" Text="Why not just try it on a copy of one of your raw files?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T12:09:49.240" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7613" PostId="6194" Text="Personally, Panda has been great to me.  From my very first roll there (a heavily bracketed roll of 35mm B&amp;W infra-red, which they printed multiple contact sheets for at different exposures, for no extra charge!), I've had almost nothing but good experiences there.  One or two *minor* mixups (they cut one roll of negatives that I'd asked to have uncut) over several years, which they handled them gracefully (no charge for that roll!).  Very happy with their service." CreationDate="2010-12-30T12:15:59.367" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7614" PostId="6188" Score="1" Text="That would not answer his questions, as (missing/additional) metadata tends to be invisible until seen with the right program :)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T12:39:52.250" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7615" PostId="6185" Text="Lens motors can produce interference which results in image noise, which might be what the questioner is referring to." CreationDate="2010-12-30T12:53:20.213" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7616" PostId="6188" Score="1" Text="Why did you want to convert to DNG in the first place?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T13:04:39.557" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7617" PostId="6185" Text="I'd guess this question would better be asked at a video-forum. Nevertheless I also occasionally did 'abuse' my cameras for videos in the past and added my experiences." CreationDate="2010-12-30T13:14:51.143" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7618" PostId="6080" Text="Neither system is nearly as good as, say, a Kenyon Gyro Stabilizer. I rented one of those for a kayaking trip once, and you can very nearly let go of the camera and watch it just sit there once the gyro spins up :)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T13:36:46.017" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7619" PostId="6104" Score="1" Text="Hmmm. Fix Wiktionary, then. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T14:22:36.787" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7621" PostId="6189" Text="Chroma noise is different from chromatic aberration." CreationDate="2010-12-30T14:36:39.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7622" PostId="6188" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas - Presumably he has something to look at the EXIF or he wouldn't care in the first place... :)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T14:38:32.570" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7623" PostId="5616" Score="2" Text="+1 for &quot;muse&quot; tag." CreationDate="2010-12-30T14:50:03.017" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="7624" PostId="6098" Text="So it's really all about fast lenses then? Is there anytihng I can do to compensate?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T15:33:15.013" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="7625" PostId="6177" Score="2" Text="When a product gets *extensive* reviews on Amazon you might glean a little information about its reliability or some of its quirks that professional reviews did not notice.  Sometimes a careful reviewer exhibits a depth of knowledge that can be informative.  More often than not, though, the great majority of reviewers know so little about lenses and photography that the reviews are just not worth reading." CreationDate="2010-12-30T15:36:00.337" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7626" PostId="6177" Score="7" Text="@kacalapy: you're asking a lot of questions which might be useful for other beginners. Each one would be improved simply by having correct capitalization and punctuation -- not much work for you, and better for the whole community. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-30T15:41:21.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7627" PostId="6177" Text="also, I'm removing the &quot;lens-flare&quot; tag, because that's actually a whole separate issue." CreationDate="2010-12-30T15:41:57.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7628" PostId="5299" Text="This lens, my cheapest, is also my favorite" CreationDate="2010-12-30T15:42:39.247" UserId="232" />
  <row Id="7629" PostId="6193" Score="3" Text="I totally read that as &quot;erotic film&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-30T16:22:39.970" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="7630" PostId="3124" Text="Try getting a flexible rubber lens hood, then get REALLY close up against the glass." CreationDate="2010-12-30T16:26:28.407" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="7632" PostId="6207" Score="1" Text="Actually, it's TIFF/EP which is specific to raw and includes color filter (bayer filter) information for interpreting the information. It differs from TIFF in that it's an ISO standard not an Adobe administered one. So, I'm not sure that last assertion in your second paragraph is entirely correct, the DNG should contain the raw sensor data. Anyways, as a Pentax shooter, I get to choose either DNG or PEF, so I've chosen DNG and to date no Pentax shooter I'm aware of has been able to show a meaningful difference in the outcome between the two other than DNG is more widely supported." CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:07:21.340" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7633" PostId="6206" Text="DNG is a raw format, the TIFF/EP standard on which it is based is specific to raw image capture." CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:09:31.103" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7634" PostId="6204" Text="Thanks Scott, I was actually aware of this one but it's a good example of the kind of thing I'm asking for. (I actually discovered dupes I didn't know about thanks to this!)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:16:36.633" UserId="722" />
  <row Id="7635" PostId="6207" Score="1" Text="From what I have read, DNG supports TIFF/EP, however in somewhat of a limited capacity. Every time I have read about DNG and TIFF/EP, there was always a catch clause that made it sound like DNG did not fully support everything that TIFF/EP does. Even if we do assume that DNG does fully support all of TIFF/EP, there is still the simple fact that bayer array information has to be translated into a TIFF/EP structure and data types, rather than its native structure. The only way to really, truly get &quot;RAW&quot; data is to use &quot;RAW&quot; data...direct, unprocessed, strait off the sensor." CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:22:47.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7637" PostId="2598" Text="AFAIK, you can download the full DPP software form Canon website. If it is free without the product? That I am not sure about." CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:32:29.263" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7638" PostId="6210" Text="can i get a nikon lens with G but not AF-S?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:44:34.690" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7639" PostId="6209" Score="2" Text="This is a virtual duplicate of your question from last night. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6179/" CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:53:43.840" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7640" PostId="6209" Text="Good point, I've moved my answer to that question." CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:56:07.800" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7642" PostId="6209" Text="Kacalapy, try to keep your questions distinct, so we don't clutter the forum with numerous highly similar questions. Thanks!" CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:23:49.433" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7643" PostId="6193" Text="This has been converted to Community Wiki. As such, anyone can edit any of the answers here, as well as the original question. If you have information to fill in @lindes &quot;holes&quot; or placeholders in the OP above, please feel free to edit it and add the information directly." CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:26:17.843" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7644" PostId="6207" Text="The specification is here: http://www.adobe.com/products/dng/pdfs/dng_spec.pdf and one of the more interesting aspects is that DNG has a section for converted raw formats to be stored compressed in the new DNG file. In any case, DNG is based on TIFF/EP, it's not actually TIFF/EP, so my point is, I think DNG is getting the raw data off the sensor and it is not being converted for TIFF storage." CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:33:22.357" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7645" PostId="6206" Text="@John - That's what the propaganda says ;) Well, yes, it is specific. That is why it does not include all color channels at each pixels but things are much more complicated. The process of creating an image involves data and process. DNG is a way to store that data and defines a process (it has to, otherwise it could not be viewed) but being standard across most cameras (DNG makes an exception for Fuji SuperCCDs) the data has to either be massaged to be compatible with the process or suffer from excluding what a camera requires which differs from the process." CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:45:15.510" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7646" PostId="6210" Score="1" Text="Not in a prime ~ the only one they make that is both AF (not AF-S) and G is the 27-300mm f/4&#xA;http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/1928/AF-Zoom-NIKKOR-70-300mm-f%252F4-5.6G.html&#xA;Here is a link to ALL Nikkor lenses:&#xA;http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Camera-Lenses/index.page" CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:50:20.593" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7647" PostId="6206" Text="I realize it is hard to explain, so let's try an example: Imagine a camera sensor is less sensitive towards the edge of the sensor, what goes in the DNG? Option 1) The RAW data exactly read from the sensor which results in an image that looks dark along the edges in DNG viewers. Option 2) The RAW data is corrected for the fall-off and stored in the DNG file. In this case, the file looks OK but you don't have the original data in the pure sense. Most cameras do the latter because there are things that depend on that particular camera (not the model, THAT exact camera) like hot/dead pixels." CreationDate="2010-12-30T18:53:44.787" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7648" PostId="6206" Text="@Itai - That's not entirely true, I linked the DNG standard above. I think there's a lot of misinformation about DNG out there, but Adobe has made the specification and SDK source freely available without encumbrance, so if it is anything less than raw, then this can be established. By the way, most proprietary raw formats are based on TIFF." CreationDate="2010-12-30T19:00:24.617" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7649" PostId="6207" Text="I'll take a look once I get a chance...today is the culmination of a years work by multiple development teams from multiple divisions of Pearson...were releasing a GIGANTIC system interconnected over the internet and web services, and I can only hope it goes well." CreationDate="2010-12-30T19:13:41.737" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7651" PostId="6166" Text="See also the answers to your question here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5917/" CreationDate="2010-12-30T20:53:16.027" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7652" PostId="6078" Text="@whuber: This is mostly correct, but it is important to point out that for small angles the tangent of the angle is nearly the same as the angle itself (expressed in radians)." CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:01:13.717" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7653" PostId="6213" Text="Do Nikon bodies work transparently in effective Av mode if you use the lens's aperture dial instead of the control wheel? With Pentax, if the lens has no `A` setting or if you choose something else, you have to use manual mode and stop-down metering. " CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:03:40.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7656" PostId="6214" Text="Unfortunately, the transformation is not usually affine: it is projective." CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:12:59.820" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7657" PostId="6078" Text="And also that, in lenses which are designed to have a very large field of view, where the x=tan(x) approximation can no longer be made, the lens is typically designed intentionally to have distortion such that the image location is proportional to the object angle. This is because it is nearly impossible to make a lens that maintains low distortion at wide angles while also having sufficient optical qualities." CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:15:58.830" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7658" PostId="6076" Text="@Theran: (deleted last comment because I was wrong) I want to mention that panorama stitching is not primarily concerned with correcting lens distortion. Distortion correction may be done in conjunction with stitching, of course, but the primary work in stitching is to find the relative position of two images their overlapping regions match each other as closely as possible. This is most commonly done by a technique called cross-correlation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cross-correlation)." CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:18:32.447" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7660" PostId="6206" Text="@John - Indeed, it has been established, DNG is less than RAW. Please read through my answer and comments carefully. The present version of DNG can store RAW data from any sensor, I agree. However, this is not sufficient because it separating data from the process of understanding that data. Vendors either have to produce data which will be correctly interpreted by DNG readers by transforming the RAW data OR give the RAW data and face inconsistent output, including from camera to camera because of sensor-corrections built into cameras as part of the QA process." CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:21:12.830" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7661" PostId="6075" Text="This is correct, except in the case of an object at infinity, where an ideal lens does indeed map the angular position of the object, not its physical height, to location in the image." CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:21:21.990" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7662" PostId="6214" Text="I guess I am thinking about the problem more like whuber is, as a projection. I am curious to know if you could actually transform the OP's pixel coordinates into RA/DEC with an affine transform. " CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:30:24.860" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7663" PostId="6214" Text="@whuber: In general yes, but not for objects at infinity. In fact, in this case the transformation is even more restrictive: it is a non-reflective similarity transform. This is a subset of the an affine transform for which the scale is equal in both directions and there is no shear. (non-reflective similarity is a special case of affine which is a special case of projective)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T21:36:35.990" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7664" PostId="6206" Text="@Itai - I did, I just don't agree with the assertion. Here's a very comprehensive set of information on DNG: http://www.barrypearson.co.uk/articles/dng/ In a nutshell, DNG enables camera specific details for conversion though not all DNG readers may be able to make of use of them (ACR generally will) and so will fall back to certain forms of defaults. This, for example, allowed me to use ACR with the K-5 before Adobe released the update that directly supported my camera." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:05:16.233" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7665" PostId="6214" Text="@Colin I beg to differ.  See the analysis in my recently posted response." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:09:38.387" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7666" PostId="6078" Text="@Colin K Good points, both of them.  I trust that readers will find my response worded carefully enough to accommodate your refinements without any modification at all.  But &quot;mostly correct&quot; implies some of it is incorrect.  Which parts?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:15:57.557" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7667" PostId="6075" Text="@Colin K And at what distance, then, does @Guffa's analysis break down?  (I think you are incorrect.)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:17:52.187" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7668" PostId="6078" Text="@whuber: Sorry, there is nothing wrong with your answer. I shouldn't have said &quot;Mostly.&quot;" CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:20:46.493" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7669" PostId="6206" Text="@John - There lies the problem, DNG can contain anything based on its ability to evolve, but someone has to keep updating the process (aka software) to ensure proper interpretation. Camera manufacturers do that with their own RAW formats but can do it at their own pace without submitting to a committee about how their next camera will work." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:29:46.547" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7670" PostId="6216" Text="I would like to point out, in response to a now-deleted comment that flashed on the screen for a second or so(!), that if you have accurate information about the lens orientation then you effectively know two or even three of the parameters (the angles).  This makes it easier to find the ML solution for the remaining parameter(s) (because there are fewer of them) and reduces some uncertainty, but it does not change the nature of the problem.  In the best case you also know the camera's orientation.  Finding the scale factor *is* a linear problem--you could even use a spreadsheet to solve it!" CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:31:38.540" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7671" PostId="6075" Text="@whuber: I was thinking of an answer, when I realized I didn't go far enough in my first comment, so you're not going to like this:) An ideal lens maps the angular position of the object to location in the image, in all cases. Really it's the tangent of the angle but we can ignore that for the moment. The hang up here is that image location is proportional to angle, but if you assume a fixed object distance then angle is also proportional to object height. But at &quot;infinity&quot; there can actually be a variety of object distances in the same photo." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:33:00.457" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7672" PostId="6142" Text="That should be &lt;$850, not 8,500." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:35:55.697" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7673" PostId="6075" Text="Consider an image containing two stars, where one star is many light years more distant from earth than the other star. A change in pixel location of the near star would correspond to some change in angle (call it v, using the notation above) and some change in physical location, x*tan(v). Now consider the same change in pixel location for the farther star. The corresponding angular change is the same, but the change in location is much larger. Why? because, while they are both at &quot;infinity&quot; they are in fact at very different distances. " CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:37:19.377" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7674" PostId="6075" Text="@whuber: now quit commenting while I digest that book you wrote on the other question :)" CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:38:11.277" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7675" PostId="6075" Text="@Colin K Yes, no problem with that.  Buf @Guffa's analysis makes it clear that only the *ratio* of distances, y/x, matters.  That's why there's no problem with object distances that vary.  That also shows, however, that nothing changes with distance.  Thus there is *no* change &quot;at infinity.&quot;  One way to see this, which can be helpful, is first to project all objects onto the unit sphere centered at the focal point and then do the calculations.  The initial projection does not change the (idealized) image at all, but it frees us from potentially invalid reasoning about infinite distances." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:41:51.573" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7676" PostId="6142" Text="Not a typo. ~$675 is way less than the $8500 number given in an earlier answer, for a high-quality high-focal length setup. " CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:42:01.633" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7677" PostId="6075" Text="@whuber: &quot;Thus there is no change &quot;at infinity.&quot;&quot; Yes, exactly. I wanted to be more explicit about that but comments must be short. It is indeed only the ratio y/x which matters. This ratio (or its atan) IS the angle! That's what I've been trying to say." CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:56:14.470" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7678" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: Ok, before I respond, met me be clear what I'm responding to. Your statistical analysis is rock solid, and I'm only talking here about the optical issues. I'm ignoring statistical uncertainty and any imperfection in the imaging system. In practice when I've done image registration work, I indeed use a maximum likelihood approach, but I find that to be a bit beyond the scope of the question here. So what remains in your answer is the bit about transforming (RA, Dec) to (x,y). The flaw here seems to be in the way you think about the object and image planes when the object is at infinity" CreationDate="2010-12-30T22:58:48.897" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7679" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: In general, the gnomic projection you describe is indeed projective, but in the case of imaging at infinity, there can be no tilt of the object &quot;plane.&quot; If you must think of it as an actual plane, then you must consider it to be normal to the optical axis. I also find it a bit odd that you speak of &quot;Compute[ing] (x,y,z) coordinates for the spherical coordinates of the stars&quot;. This is unnecessary. It sounds like you have a strong background in numerical analysis, but little in optical engineering?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:02:56.350" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7680" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber:  I design lenses and image processing algorithms professionally, so I may be using vocabulary which has a very specific meaning to optical engineers, and we may be having communication issues." CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:04:55.533" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7681" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K To head off a possible extended discussion that is likely to be of little interest to most readers, let me point out there's no need to consider any objects &quot;at infinity&quot;.  All real objects, including celestial ones, are at finite distances.  I invite you to criticize my analysis for finite objects, because I do not want to leave anyone deceived about the truth (least of all myself), but I won't respond to appeals about &quot;objects at infinity&quot; unless you're prepared to back them up rigorously with appropriate analysis using projective geometry." CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:05:40.820" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7682" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K Ah, yes, communication between related but different fields can be fraught with unnecessary arguments.  (Full disclosure: my PhD is in differential geometry, not optics.  I'm thrilled you're participating here and look forward to reading all your future responses to any question)  But I hope that if we agree on what the problem is then we will also agree on what constitutes a correct solution.  Also, to keep on track, let's continue to bear in mind that the relevant ideas to bring out are those that address @barrycarter's original question.  " CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:11:18.273" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7683" PostId="6201" Text="I just looked at both a ARW file and a DNG file's EXIF, and they both have the same &quot;Exif.Sony.0x____&quot; fields with the same data. So does this mean everything is being carried over or just that my Exif view doesn't see the proprietary Exif stuff?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:44:30.027" UserId="2880" />
  <row Id="7684" PostId="6188" Text="I just looked at both a ARW file and a DNG file's EXIF, and they both have the same &quot;Exif.Sony.0x____&quot; fields with the same data. So does this mean everything is being carried over or just that my Exif view doesn't see the proprietary Exif stuff?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:44:52.910" UserId="2880" />
  <row Id="7685" PostId="6188" Text="Also, if only Sony's Raw converter can see or use the info, is it really worth keeping anyway?" CreationDate="2010-12-30T23:45:38.947" UserId="2880" />
  <row Id="7686" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: With a Ph.D in diff. geo., you unquestionably have the skills to understand what I'm trying to say. This is certainly a communication problem. So, let me take a different tack that may work better. First one quick point: &quot;infinity&quot; is a common term in optics meaning that all the rays through the pupil can be approximated as parallel to each other. All physical distances are finite, but while you need to re-focus when looking from an object 5 feet away to  one 10 feet away, this is not the case between one 5 lightyears an 10 lightyears -- both objects are &quot;at infinity&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-31T00:11:48.453" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7687" PostId="6206" Text="@Itai - DNGPrivateData allows vendors to do this without changes to the DNG specification. " CreationDate="2010-12-31T00:15:54.173" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7688" PostId="6207" Text="@jrista - Good luck! By the way, see the site I linked below, it has a wealth of details on the DNG format." CreationDate="2010-12-31T00:17:16.653" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7689" PostId="6216" Score="1" Text="@whuber: Now, let me ask you some questions that may help our understanding. 1. My understanding of the coordinate transforms is mostly self taught for the purpose of image processing, so I'm sure there are some holes. Is it correct to say that an affine transform is a projective transform with equal scaling in both dimensions? 2. Can you describe a case where, with all objects at infinity, there would be unequal scale in the image relative to the angular position of the object? An example may be a field of stars which are arranged in a grid on the celestial sphere, but at varying distances." CreationDate="2010-12-31T00:29:14.943" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7690" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K-- an affine transform is composed of rotation, translation, shear, and scaling transforms.  As such, it is possible that you're thinking of affine transforms differently than the general definition (which is better explained on wikipedia).  There would be no particular reason why the scaling and rotational components in an affine transform would be linked, although domain-specific knowledge may limit the actual transform used (as may be the case here).  " CreationDate="2010-12-31T01:05:01.730" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7691" PostId="6102" Text="Ok, I think I get where the confusion is coming from now... I'm Australian - our &quot;o&quot; sound at the end of &quot;bo&quot; is quite different." CreationDate="2010-12-31T01:14:45.597" UserId="672" />
  <row Id="7692" PostId="5894" Score="2" Text="+1 because I don't think beginners realize what an issue size/weight can be. I went with kinda big/heavy -- but I can appreciate what you're saying :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-31T01:24:50.670" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7694" PostId="6096" Score="1" Text="See also the &quot;What is bokeh really?&quot; question and the great non-pronunciation answers there. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2706/" CreationDate="2010-12-31T01:32:32.013" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7695" PostId="6206" Text="@John - It really does not matter because THE process does not change by whatever is put in the private data. If the camera puts there that it has *triangular pixels* or even worst additional date per pixel (say overflow info, base-level, etc), no one will know about it and all DNG viewers will show the wrong thing! That's why they had to put additional fields for Fuji and they will have to keep doing it. Private data only serves the vendor's own software because no one know what to do with it." CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:08:08.057" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7696" PostId="6206" Text="@Itai - There are always exceptions, but to argue that DNG loses something in the vast majority of the cases is disingenuous, it doesn't. It's not perfect, mind you, but the crazy scattering of raw formats is hardly perfect either. Some of us would prefer not to have to do software upgrades every time we buy a camera." CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:11:16.303" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7697" PostId="6206" Text="@John - We've actually diverged from the original question. What happens is that because manufacturers cannot control the process and still want DNG viewers to show the right thing, they actually convert from the internal RAW to the DNG version of RAW which is designed to satisfy how DNG viewers work. Converting to DNG can therefore be a lossy operation and just because some converters decide not to include certain metadata but because even the pixel data can be altered to take into account particulars of the camera." CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:12:38.927" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7698" PostId="6206" Text="Anyways, my initial point is that DNG is raw, so conversion to it isn't converting away from raw and, more to the point, the DNG can contain the original raw file as well, so you lose nothing at all in the process, but you have an archival format that has more chance of surviving over time." CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:14:31.153" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7699" PostId="6206" Text="@Itai - It isn't lossy in ACR. Anyways, by standarizing certain pieces of information you potentially turn the undisplayable into something that can be displayed and, then as needed, adjusted. But yeah, we got away from the original question, though a good debate nonetheless." CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:17:58.653" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7700" PostId="5891" Text="Here's my pictures, at long last. Thanks for the help guys! http://www.pearsonartphoto.com/Nature/Lunar-Eclipse/15264616_LWPMC#1142022665_USbrk-A-LB" CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:30:36.120" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7701" PostId="6222" Score="2" Text="I believe that the soft box is really not a necessity here. A simple light source behind the subject will do the trick. Note that depending on the intensity of the light, you may need slightly longer exposures. However, fortunately this will still be relatively short b/c you want the subject to be dark." CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:56:35.760" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7702" PostId="6224" Text="Duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6151/" CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:01:19.093" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7703" PostId="6224" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6161/" CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:02:28.873" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7704" PostId="6222" Score="1" Text="@ysap - The softbox is to diffuse the light and better control it, minimizing any bounce. Is it needed? No, not entirely, but when staging shots, controlling the light is a strong element in controlling the outcome, perhaps the strongest." CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:10:00.377" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7705" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K First, to echo @mmr: An affine transformation is a linear transformation followed by a translation.  One possible confusion here is that projective transformations can be written with matrices by means of projective coordinates (involving one more dimension), but even so there are projective transformations that are not affine.  Second, I have assumed isotropy (equal scales in all directions), although anisotropy can be handled by introducing one more parameter.  Third, light rays from stars at two different points in the sky converging towards a common point will *not* be parallel." CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:11:02.170" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7706" PostId="6228" Text="Hmmm. Motion blur is *less* random" CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:13:38.797" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7707" PostId="6228" Text="@mattdm: In a single shot, yes. Across many shots, it is particularly random. Using an algorithm to correct any arbitrary shot that has objects in motion, especially multiple objects in motion on different vectors, would be difficult. (I've added qualification of &quot;random&quot; in my answer to clarify.)" CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:26:26.103" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7708" PostId="6188" Text="@Rowland Shaw&#xA;Sorry I didn't reply sooner. My main reason for converter is for DNG's support of XMP metadata. I'd like for all my tags and comments to stick to the files themselves instead being stuck to digiKam's database. Also, if I choose not to embed the original file, their is a decent shave off the file size." CreationDate="2010-12-31T03:30:40.057" UserId="2880" />
  <row Id="7710" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: Oh! I just realized you made an edit. Lemme take a look before I reply." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:30:03.490" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7711" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: From an optical perspective, Colin is indeed correct that, beyond a certain point, light rays from an object that reach the lens can be *considered* parallel for all incident rays. This is the case a lot of the time in landscape photography, as mountains and whatnot are often well beyond the &quot;infinity focus&quot; point. From a purely physical standpoint, I agree, rays from something even as far as a star are not perfectly parallel, but the angle of such rays will diverge so little that it is inconsequential. Given that...could an affine transform work?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:32:43.393" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7712" PostId="6228" Text="Yeah sorry that was a half-written comment and I lost my train of thought. I was going to say that it is, as you say, more *arbitrary* than random." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:33:13.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7713" PostId="6222" Text="Thanks :)  I'm working with pretty minimal equipment, so a home light source will have to do the trick, and I'll have a sheet to cover it.  This may seem like a silly question, but was that picture taken in a dark room, or did you just have the shutter fast enough that it appears that way?  The reason I ask is that I'm doing the photos at 10am, so it will be plenty bright inside!" CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:38:01.177" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7714" PostId="6216" Text="@jrista I don't think that was the issue here, just a momentary diversion. I believe we are all on the same page regarding an object at infinity." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:39:00.940" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7715" PostId="6216" Text="@jrista Given that two distinct stars have an angular separation, it is a given that their light rays will not be parallel.  Take a look at the coordinates in the question: they are fairly widely separated.  Sure, an affine transformation can approximate the correct projective one--that's the whole principle behind calculus, after all!--but with this kind of separation there will be small but perhaps unacceptable error.  Throwing in a second or third order polynomial correction can do a good job with similar georeferencing problems, so it ought to work here, too." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:39:54.433" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7716" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: So I looked at the figure you added, and the accompanying description. It seems to agree exactly with what I said. (Nice diagram by the way. Just keep in mind that if you model a lens as a &quot;focal point&quot; like that in too many situations, you're going to irritate a lot of optical engineers!) Based on that diagram, the pixel coordinate should scale like tan(alpha) should it not? All that remains is the scale factor to convert units of pixels to units with dimension of direction tangent, and rotation and translation to deal with the orientation of the camera." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:43:24.413" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7717" PostId="6216" Text="@jrista (Continued) I should point out, too, that even with an affine approximation we still have a *nonlinear* relationship between the angular star coordinates and the rectilinear coordinates on the sensor.  I think you're right to suspect it's close to linear, but for (some) astrophotographic purposes it seems fair to assume one wants to wring all the accuracy out of the image that it can reasonably support.  I don't want to make a big deal out of this, but it is an interesting question whose analysis might help us to understand all photographic images a little better." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:44:27.423" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7718" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: rays from adjacent stars will of course not be parallel, but all the rays from ONE star will be! (in other words starlight is coherent). Thats the whole meaning of an object being at infinity. Also, I wonder, is this whole issue about the issue of approximating theta==tan(theta) ? because for any field of view you'll get in a telescope that is quite appropriate and common." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:46:09.187" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7719" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K That's exactly right (well, it's the cotangent, but so what...).  Yes, I get that bit about irritating optical engineers: their (and our) favorite part of the picture, the lens, got entirely left out!  I feel bad about that--there's a bit of hand-waving going on--but the point was to obtain a diagram that would help us see the nature of the coordinate transformations in question, not to analyze a lens.  I'm glad it is consistent with what you have been asserting." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:48:13.833" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7720" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K Part of it is the tan(theta) approximation but the main part of it is that theta itself is a (highly) nonlinear function of differences in RA and DEC.  This is where the 2D cross-section diagram might seem deceptively simple.  In effect theta has to be computed using spherical trigonometry and that computation is decidedly not an affine transformation of the celestial coordinates of the stars!" CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:51:55.607" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7721" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: Yeah thats a fine diagram for this purpose. Good looking too, what did you draw it with? The irritating part is that for most situations that &quot;focal point&quot; description will be very very wrong, and the name you give it uses terms that already have plenty of meaning in optics! Also it has no pupil, so it doesn't illuminate our little digression about an object at infinity, but thats really besides the point anyway." CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:52:03.597" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7722" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: unless I am mistaken, apart from an additive offset, RA and Dec have exactly the same units as theta, do they not? They are angular coordinates describing a point on the celestial sphere. i.e. they are simply a specific set of spherical coordinates. Right?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:54:48.133" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7723" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K I think that the issue of (point) &quot;object at infinity&quot; for you may be tantamount to my (implicit) assumption that a star's image *ought* to be an infinitesimal point on the sensor (barring other physical effects like diffraction, lack of perfect focus, etc.)  Am I getting warm?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:55:22.330" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7724" PostId="6216" Text="@Colin K (1) RA is longitude and DEC is latitude.  So sure they're angles but theta can be thought of as the (standardized) length of the geodesic joining two points on the sphere.  A crude approximation (for images covering only a few degrees of the sky) is to use (RA*cos(DEC), DEC) for coordinates and assume the image coordinates are an affine transformation of *those*.  (2) The software is &quot;Geogebra&quot; (freeware).  It's fun to use because you can move the parts of the figure (like the stars) and the rest of it moves right along, too!  http://www.geogebra.org/cms/" CreationDate="2010-12-31T05:02:19.810" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7725" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber: That sounds like the issue then. Small angle approximations are common in optics. Especially if you're talking about astronomical observations, where the field of view is almost always very tiny." CreationDate="2010-12-31T05:23:04.723" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="7726" PostId="6091" Text="FYI, I ended up getting this lens :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-31T05:50:49.770" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7727" PostId="6216" Text="@whuber, @Colin K: Thanks a lot for the discussion! :) I am not nearly as well versed in mathematics as the two of you, and I appreciate the discussion and clarifications. I am not entirely certain I fully understand everything, but I have the general gist, and understand whuber's assertations about there being a non-linear relationship between stars and the &quot;focal point&quot; of the lens. I guess the relationship becomes more non-linear the wider the field of view, so treating the problem as such makes sense. " CreationDate="2010-12-31T05:53:51.997" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7728" PostId="6216" Text="As a side note...if you guys wish to discuss this in a more real-time fashion, don't forget that we have a chat system. You can click on the 'Photographic Memories' chat link to the right, click the 'All rooms' button, and create a chat room for any type of discussion. The beauty of our chat system is it logs everything permanently, so others, such as myself who are interested in the discussion, can review the log if we miss the real-time chat, and learn! :) " CreationDate="2010-12-31T05:55:45.380" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7729" PostId="6091" Text="@Tom: Congrats. :) I assume you mean the 24-70, and if so, I don't think you could have done better. I've messed with it a few times, and just in the few moments I've handled it, I found it to be a superb lens. " CreationDate="2010-12-31T06:05:58.807" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7730" PostId="6228" Text="@mattdm: Aye, *arbitrary* is probably the correct term. Its a frame of reference thing...tough to describe those sometimes. ;)" CreationDate="2010-12-31T06:06:48.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7731" PostId="6091" Text="Yes, indeed, the 24-70mm f/2.8. I fell in love with it at the camera shop and decided that at $300 off it was the best time to get it ;-). I was deciding between this lens or the kit lens + the 50mm f/1.4G. The 50mm is another beautiful lens but overall I think this was a better choice for me. Anyways, thanks for all your great answers to many of the questions on this site -- they helped me get to my decision :-)." CreationDate="2010-12-31T06:33:13.423" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7732" PostId="6226" Score="3" Text="To add further weight to the assumption that they all do this... if they didn't ensure the power was disconnected first, and/or didn't ensure that power didn't get applied to the data pins, there'd be hundreds of thousands of dead lenses/cameras around and product recalls to fix it. That sort of thing wouldn't just *sometimes* kill a lens — power applied to a data connection (which isn't specifically protected for such a circumstance) will kill the electronics almost instantly." CreationDate="2010-12-31T07:23:30.623" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="7733" PostId="6181" Score="1" Text="**TL;DR** not &quot;poor&quot; images, just slightly less sharp than f/2 or so" CreationDate="2010-12-31T07:27:15.223" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="7734" PostId="6140" Text="sorry to be picky, but the lines on your graph should probably be an exponential/logarithmic function rather than polynomial splines fit through every point (;" CreationDate="2010-12-31T07:39:02.037" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="7735" PostId="6159" Text="thanks for doing that, but could you post equivalent shots with and without IS turned on?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T09:08:09.200" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7736" PostId="6223" Score="4" Text="I've often heard the &quot;charged sensor&quot; argument but never seen evidence to back it up and I'm afraid I don't buy it. When the camera is on but not exposing a frame there is nothing going on on the sensor to generate any charge. And if there were the shutter would still be closed and any charge would not be strong enough to attract dust from outside the camera body, about 4cm away. Yes changing lenses could stir up the air inside the camera, but no more (and probably less) than the mirror flipping up while shooting!" CreationDate="2010-12-31T09:11:38.077" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7737" PostId="6217" Score="2" Text="Which camera are you using? I can't find anything in a Canon DSLR manual which advises turning the camera off to change lenses." CreationDate="2010-12-31T09:19:44.483" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7739" PostId="6223" Score="1" Text="Also with Canons (and assume other brands as well) sensor cleaning is performed with the camera on. The manual advices activating the sensor cleaning function and blowing the sensor to clean it. If the sensor were charged there's no way this would work." CreationDate="2010-12-31T09:25:12.470" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7740" PostId="6181" Score="2" Text="Don't know what the Nikon normal lenses are like but I can't agree with the statement **&quot;The f/1.4 lenses are usually better at f/1.4 than, say, an f/1.8 (commodity glass) would be at f/1.8&quot;** The Canon 50 f/1.4 is visably a **lot** softer wide open than the &quot;commodity glass&quot; Canon f/1.8 is wide open. Test also give the plastic 50 a slight sharpness edge wide open compared to the 50 f/1.4 *stopped down* to f/1.8 " CreationDate="2010-12-31T10:06:58.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7741" PostId="6181" Text="Seems to be the same situation with Nikon: http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/widget/Fullscreen.ashx?reviews=30&amp;fullscreen=true&amp;av=1.667&amp;fl=50&amp;vis=VisualiserSharpnessMTF&amp;stack=horizontal&amp;&amp;config=LensReviewConfiguration.xml%3F2 the 50 f/1.8 is the sharpest of the bunch at f/1.8" CreationDate="2010-12-31T10:25:38.073" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7742" PostId="5988" Text="They do get rather large, and I stopped moving complete libraries around, if possible. In aperture 3 it's possible to export a single project as a library and import it into another library. When transferring photo's, that's now my preferred way to do it." CreationDate="2010-12-31T10:45:52.163" UserId="2435" />
  <row Id="7743" PostId="6140" Text="@drfrogsplat: yes, agreed that would make more sense" CreationDate="2010-12-31T11:12:55.190" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="7744" PostId="6153" Text="Interesting question something I never thought about" CreationDate="2010-12-31T11:54:24.817" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="7745" PostId="6222" Text="@SarahHaren - That was a dark room, but all it means is that you're working with slower shutter speeds. Just make sure that the background is brighter than the subject or it's not going to work." CreationDate="2010-12-31T11:56:20.323" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7746" PostId="6236" Text="+1 for the final point... :)&#xA;Who didn't do that mistake at least once? Don't worry pal" CreationDate="2010-12-31T12:57:58.317" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="7748" PostId="6181" Text="Ditto Pentax, FWIW." CreationDate="2010-12-31T13:27:46.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7749" PostId="763" Text="The K-5 also supports compressed DNG." CreationDate="2010-12-31T14:16:41.170" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7751" PostId="6242" Text="+1 Disk is cheap. :)" CreationDate="2010-12-31T14:51:12.390" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7753" PostId="6242" Score="1" Text="As a sysadmin, I have to disagree. Cheap disk is cheap. Storage for data you want to preserve is expense." CreationDate="2010-12-31T15:09:36.953" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7755" PostId="6158" Text="+1 for providing quantitative, rather than mere qualitative guidance, and for recognizing that speed of the image on the sensor is what matters." CreationDate="2010-12-31T15:51:52.397" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7756" PostId="6223" Text="Matt, I've been wondering about this topic for a while, and while... And would like to find a hard answer. I find that your comments fall short of that, for me, though, particularly in one point: it's entirely possible that a sensor cleaning function would leave the sensor in a different charge state than is normal for when the camera is simply on. I don't know the real story, but your explanation seems contrary to what seems logically plausible to me. If you can back it up with references, please do. " CreationDate="2010-12-31T16:22:41.227" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7757" PostId="6223" Text="Also, this answer (a charged sensor attracting dust) is the I've heard most often... Whether it's factual or not, I'd like to know, but it's definitely an answer I've commonly heard (and I haven't heard the &quot;frying the camera or lens&quot; theory, until now.)" CreationDate="2010-12-31T16:25:44.627" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7758" PostId="6217" Text="@Matt Grum: Like many users I've encountered on this site, I have my gear on my profile. I'm using a Nikon D7000. The message is on page 26 of this online manual: http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/noprint/D7000_ENnoprint.pdf." CreationDate="2010-12-31T17:24:15.657" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7759" PostId="6159" Text="@Matt:  I always have IS on.  This shot was actually an accident--I didn't realize just how bad the light was (With my glasses the info through the viewfinder is out of frame and without them I can't read it anyway.)  When I heard how slow the shutter was I figured it was lost and retook the picture with flash.  Later I found the non-flash shots (3-shot bracketing) were fine.  Do you really think I could have gotten a decent .4sec handheld shot without IS??  The slowest I've ever gone without IS was 1/8th sec, braced, and most of them were bad." CreationDate="2010-12-31T18:01:06.887" UserId="1843" />
  <row Id="7760" PostId="6217" Text="Hmm seems to be a Nikon thing. What does it say under manual sensor cleaning? Are you supposed to turn the camera off, remove the lens, turn it back on, open the shutter and then clean the sensor? " CreationDate="2010-12-31T18:51:43.943" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7761" PostId="6217" Text="Ha, yes! Page 286 of the same manual: turn the camera off, remove lens, turn it back on..." CreationDate="2010-12-31T19:01:18.600" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7763" PostId="6242" Text="@mattdm - For the home user you can get several external terabyte+ sized drives for backup purposes for very little money. I have three and seriously doubt all 3 are going to fail at the same time and/or in the same sectors. That's sufficient I think and probably a heck of a lot more than the vast majority are doing. In any case, even in the interprise, disk is still cheap if you compare storage growth versus cost." CreationDate="2010-12-31T19:09:23.037" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7764" PostId="2647" Score="2" Text="The 50 f/1.2 is not a good lens to evaluate sharpness with as it's relatively soft wide open and exhibits focus shift when stopped down - I'd use a macro lens, either the ef-s 60mm or the 100 f/2.8L" CreationDate="2010-12-31T19:12:35.110" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7768" PostId="78" Text="It's also dependent on the amount of blur you are willing to accept as &quot;in focus&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-31T19:47:43.743" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7769" PostId="6242" Text="Do you have an automated process which transfers data between these three drives? What keeps an error from being propagated? Do you periodically validate the data? What if your house is struck by lightning and it overwhelms your surge protection? What if your home burns down?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T19:52:56.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7770" PostId="6242" Text="@mattdm - If my house burns down, I'll have bigger things to worry about. Seriously, what's with the bee in the bonnet? The average user here is not a major company and are not going to spend millions on massive redundancy and off-site storage facilities with fireproofing. Multiple backups to low cost external drives is more than reasonable and not expensive. Do you really think it's so expense that somebody needs to squeeze out a few megabytes from an image? Cost per megabyte of disk is peanuts even for more protective home solutions." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:19:52.627" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7771" PostId="6242" Text="I dunno if it's a &quot;bee in the bonnet&quot; -- that's a weirdly antagonistic turn of phrase. Perhaps you have some insects in your own headgear, here? There's some weird conflicts in your comment here: on the one hand, you suggest that a made-up &quot;spend millions&quot;, and then say that a cheap solution is &quot;more than reasonable&quot;. The real answer for a serious and conscientious home user is somewhere in-between, and for many *reasonable* in-between solutions, a 10% decrease in long-term storage size of redundant data might in fact be easy savings." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:32:09.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7772" PostId="6247" Score="2" Text="Having almost the same ballhead (different QR plate), I know it works. Pull the lever outwards, turn it and let go. Then tighten from there, repeat as needed." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:32:40.843" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7773" PostId="6248" Text="+1 That's correct.  It would be more revealing if that quotation were to add, &quot;and the greatest DoF occurs when objects at infinity are just barely in focus&quot;--which is a concept already amply covered by previous responses." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:33:11.500" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7774" PostId="6242" Text="And for professionals with clients who depend on them, a three-cheap-external-disk solution would be pretty worrying. You don't need to have to be a major company to have valuable data assets." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:33:48.490" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7775" PostId="72" Score="1" Text="I like the idea of two-thirds of the way to infinity ;-)." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:35:10.687" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7776" PostId="6242" Text="@mattdm - More in response to the nature of your questions which, honestly, felt antogonistic to me almost if in response to something that happened at work related to this. In any case, cost per meg on the disk itself is still going to be cheap versus the costs of other things related to securing it, in my opinion. Besides, I think we're way off topic now... :)" CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:38:45.177" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7777" PostId="6242" Text="Something happens at work related to this *all the time*. That's the point. :) I didn't mean it to be personal or antagonistic, though." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:43:54.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7778" PostId="6242" Text="No prob, we can debate in chat if you want, I'd like to see what you think is a reasonable solution." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:45:36.407" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7779" PostId="6252" Text="I have to agree, though there are some tricks to diffusing the popup flash to make it less harsh, it's easier to deal with a decent flash that can tilt/swivel for bounce and softer light." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:48:12.583" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7780" PostId="6252" Score="2" Text="The SB-400 can't swivel side to side, but has a simple tilt-upwards capability. My father recently got one for his D3000, and his pictures are dramatically improved, and, no offense to my father :) I'm sure he's not really using any particular tricks. That said, yeah, if you *do* take the time to learn and think about it, controlling light is a very important part of getting great photos." CreationDate="2010-12-31T20:53:31.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7781" PostId="6252" Score="2" Text="I bought a 35mm f/1.8, and bought a flash later. In retrospect, I wish I had gotten the flash first; a flash will open more doors for your photography than a prime will. However, babies' eyes are more sensitive than adults, so you might want to hold off on the flash until he/she is older." CreationDate="2010-12-31T21:16:09.123" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7782" PostId="6255" Text="Hmmm. While I agree that removing the backpack to get to gear is annoying, if your backpack is comfortable to wear, there shouldn't be a problem with wearing it while shooting. (I do it all the time!) And I've never had anyone question it as a personal item on an airplane, although of course they are getting more and more strict." CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:03:31.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7783" PostId="6255" Text="I dunno about robbery, either. If that's a big worry, note that some backpacks have access to camera gear through an opening that goes against your back rather than facing out." CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:05:28.593" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7784" PostId="6255" Text="@mattdm - Yes, I've seen such backpacks. They are usually padded enough too to deter slashers (people who cut open your bag while you are distracted) compared to non-photo backpacks. As for the personal item criteria, it says 'rarely'. Some are small enough but most are not to satisfy airline rules (note the difference between *carry-on* and *personal item* as well), whether they apply the rules is a matter of luck. Satisfying the rules nearly always works." CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:24:44.430" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7785" PostId="6255" Text="Many small camera backpacks *will* fit in the personal-item rules. For American Airlines, to pick one at random, the rule includes a &quot;book bag or tote&quot; as long as H+W+D is &lt;= 36&quot;; for my Tamrac bag, that total is 32&quot;." CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:31:07.453" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7786" PostId="6258" Text="wow, as a beginner this is pretty shocking! would the 50mm f/1.4 for about 450$ be a better choice then for low light portraits than the 35mm f/1.8? they are both about the same price" CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:35:49.380" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7787" PostId="6256" Score="9" Text="Please, capitalize and punctuate your questions correctly. It doesn't take much more of your time, and makes the site nicer for everyone else who will find these questions later." CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:51:14.870" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7788" PostId="6258" Text="You asked that already! Twice!" CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:51:39.283" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7789" PostId="6258" Score="9" Text="@Kacalapy: At this point, I think its time you exercise your personal reasoning skills, and make a decision. I think you've pretty much asked the same basic set of questions half a dozen times now. There really isn't much more information any of us can give you, and we certainly can't make the decision for you...you have to make it for yourself. You have cost, quality, and light...pick a ratio of those three that you find acceptable, and go for it." CreationDate="2010-12-31T22:58:41.547" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7790" PostId="6258" Text="@mattdm: in my prev. questions I was gaining knowledge and comparing the two at identical apertures ad two focal lengths. My wish would be to get the 35mm f/1.4 but that's out of my price range for the time being. So, my choices today are either the 35mm f/1.8 or 50mm f/1.2. i am not worried about the focal length as much as i am about low light photography of people without the use of a flash. Will the extra aperture at 50mm help at all with this?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:03:12.367" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7791" PostId="6258" Text="@kacalpy: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/49/ or http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3262/ " CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:08:19.920" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7792" PostId="6258" Score="1" Text="Also, there is no current Nikkor 50mm f/1.2. Are you sure that's what you mean?" CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:09:08.827" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7793" PostId="6256" Score="1" Text="Thanks -- much better!" CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:10:48.793" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7794" PostId="6258" Score="2" Text="And, not to be too irritating, but I do feel compelled to point out that this is one of the reasons people suggest researching the lens options in a given system *before* buying into it." CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:15:43.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7795" PostId="6256" Text="anything i can do to keep a great site stay great..." CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:25:35.000" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7796" PostId="6258" Text="Sorry, that was a typo. Where I mentioned 1.2 I meant 1.4" CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:27:17.853" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7797" PostId="6251" Text="Same here :)  I just got both the 35mm f/1.8 and the SB600 for Christmas.  For the price of the two, I could have gone with a 50mm f/1.4.  I got the lens first (by a week) and was still disappointed with my limitations on indoor photography (which had admittedly dramatically improved, but still).  But, that being said, I live in NE Ohio which means we are indoors and it is cloudy for 4-6 months/year, so I knew the both would be used! If you can't afford both, go for the flash first.  You will probably be wanting to upgrade to a prime lens soon after, though." CreationDate="2010-12-31T23:41:40.003" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7798" PostId="6252" Text="Something like StoFen's Omnibounce or Gary Fong's Lightdome can cure a lot of ills. Unlike simpler bounce cards and diffusers, they also allow the walls and ceiling to come into play (like a softer version of the bare bulb effect). If you're really up close and at floor level, it won't make a lot of difference, but at anything more than a couple of feet it really takes the harsh edge off." CreationDate="2011-01-01T02:54:24.087" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7799" PostId="6252" Text="@Stan Rogers, I don't think that'd work well with the SB-400, which isn't super-powerful. But just a simple bounce off of the ceiling works surprisingly well." CreationDate="2011-01-01T05:04:03.393" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7800" PostId="6253" Score="1" Text="Huh. I guess I disagree on almost all counts here. :) #1: the SB-400 is pretty small, with a non-traditional form-factor; #2: I actually think the flash is easier if you're not trying for anything clever -- obviously mileage will vary, flavor to taste, etc.; #3: get some eneloops and it's no big deal; #4: true, but the SB-400 has a 2.5 second recharge time. And #5, like you say, not a big deal for most home use. Anyway -- happy new year!" CreationDate="2011-01-01T05:07:08.630" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7801" PostId="6265" Score="4" Text="@Chills: Convert to CW?" CreationDate="2011-01-01T05:20:47.633" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7802" PostId="6252" Text="@mattdm: you might be surprised. The collapsible version of the Lightsphere (sorry for blowing the brand name previously) looks to be pretty clear, so you should still get a good ceiling bounce while deflecting some of the light ahead and to the sides. I'll concede that the Omnibounce would be less than satisfactory on the SB-400 (it was barely acceptable on a Vivitar 285HV when I had one), and that the more opaque Lightspheres probably wouldn't do much better." CreationDate="2011-01-01T05:38:32.180" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7803" PostId="6258" Text="@kacalapy: it sounds like you answered your question yourself. &quot;I am not worried about the focal length as much as I am about low light photography of people without the use of a flash.&quot; If that's the case, go with the 50mm f/1.4 instead of the 35mm f/1.8. You should have an idea of what 50mm looks like with your kit lens. If that's wide enough for you just go with it." CreationDate="2011-01-01T07:32:05.943" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7804" PostId="6258" Text="Keep in mind that you can also rent lenses. Rent the 35mm f/1.8 or rent the 50mm f/1.4 and see if it fits your needs. If renting it will give you the peace of mind, it could be worth it. Some shops will even let you try lenses! I tried out about 5 lenses in the shop before I bought my body.&#xA;&#xA;Also keep in mind that if you make a mistake it's not the end of the world! If you find the 50mm too restrictive or the f/1.8 not to enough, sell the lens and switch. You might not break even but it's not like you lost it all.&#xA;&#xA;Most importantly: don't sweat not getting the 35mm f/1.4 :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-01T07:34:41.463" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7805" PostId="6258" Score="2" Text="If I may step into this discussion - Kacalapy, I don't understand why you spend so much time about this subject. Following this forum for the last couple of weeks, you seem to ask many questions - which is great for a beginner - and got many answers that pretty much cover most of what you need to know at this level. You just **have** to let loose somewhat and **start actually taking photos** with your new gear. This is the one and only **true** way to learn photography." CreationDate="2011-01-01T09:56:24.500" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7806" PostId="6258" Text="[cont]... Do you really feel you have maximized your kit lens' abilities that you rush to buy a fast prime lens? Heck, it took me about 4 years before upgrading my kit lens. I do own now the EF-50mm f/1.4 lens and I guarantee you that if you intend to take close up portraits, you **are going to** suffer from the very shallow DoF where parts of the face will be out-of-focus. It will get to the point in which you **will not** use it wide open until you get more experienced - so why waste the money now?" CreationDate="2011-01-01T10:00:16.833" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7807" PostId="6258" Text="[cont 2]... Last thing - looking at your profile, it seems like you got yourself a pretty good reputation **solely from asking (good) questions**. This is a valid path to the wall of fame, but if you start actually shooting, you may be able to **answer** other people's questions, based on your gained experience. Note that all the above is not for criticizing you, but merely for encouraging you to use your new equipment and to learn by actually doing." CreationDate="2011-01-01T10:03:55.567" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="7808" PostId="6256" Text="Except bother with grammar and spelling, apparently. Almost every single question you have asked has been all lower case, with liberal misspellings." CreationDate="2011-01-01T10:07:44.197" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="7809" PostId="2645" Score="1" Text="@Winston: The point where diffraction starts to matter depends on sensor pixel size. Since 7D has smaller photosites than 20D, it is going to suffer more. See http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm" CreationDate="2011-01-01T12:01:26.773" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7810" PostId="6255" Text="I use Lowepro Fastpack, which has a side-accessible compartment so I don't have to remove it to get the camera. I think it's a useful compromise :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-01T12:03:54.070" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7811" PostId="6258" Text="@ysap: thanks. my current kit lens is poor at DOF and even worse at low light shots. Also, i think i i went through Ken Rockwell's site more than once and he has a good point. getting great lenses will pay off cause you get tip top gear and they hold or grow in value over time. with the best 50mm (f1.4) being under 500$ this is an easy buy. the tough pill to swallow is the 35mm f/1.4 (ouch)" CreationDate="2011-01-01T13:48:56.800" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7812" PostId="6232" Score="1" Text="I agree ~ I have an APS-C camera and the 35mm, and the 50mm would have been too long in my not-very-large house." CreationDate="2011-01-01T14:01:11.543" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="7813" PostId="6270" Score="9" Text="Noooooooooooo! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-01T14:04:39.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7814" PostId="6176" Text="Itai, thanks for the answer. It seems a fast point &amp; shoot digicam. You say : this is one of only two... Which is the other model ?" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:06:13.000" UserId="2875" />
  <row Id="7815" PostId="6176" Text="http://www.testfreaks.com" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:09:58.893" UserId="2875" />
  <row Id="7816" PostId="6176" Text="http://www.dpreview.com/" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:10:20.500" UserId="2875" />
  <row Id="7817" PostId="6274" Text="Congrats on the lens, I have the same one and it's a fun lens to use. I don't have specific advice for DIY on this, but you can also probably take it to a photography store for cleaning. You may want to anyways, just to have the aperture blades and glass checked as well." CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:13:37.390" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7818" PostId="6269" Score="1" Text="I just finished a Project 365. Fun, but it's going to be a while before I consider doing that again!" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:19:13.643" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7819" PostId="6266" Score="2" Text="Raw Therapee is excellent, though when you want to do more forms of manipulation and some advanced techniques, GIMP is probably going to be useful to you." CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:21:02.393" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7820" PostId="6176" Text="http://snapsort.com/" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:37:53.493" UserId="2875" />
  <row Id="7821" PostId="6276" Score="1" Text="Similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4011/preview-photos-directly-on-laptop/4015#4015" CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:44:27.027" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="7822" PostId="6253" Text="Well, it appears that @John agrees with you :) " CreationDate="2011-01-01T15:52:51.943" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7823" PostId="6277" Score="2" Text="Take a look at this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2876/things-to-look-for-in-my-first-slr-camera" CreationDate="2011-01-01T16:01:13.607" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="7824" PostId="6277" Score="2" Text="Do you any particular interests within the broader hobby of photography? All the big and medium brands are good and can work for anything, so on one level the answer is &quot;pick one and don't stress about it&quot;. But if you have ideas about something you'd like to work on photographing, or interest in a particular approach, there may be a more-specific best fit for you. " CreationDate="2011-01-01T16:30:48.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7825" PostId="6176" Text="The Fuji Finepix Z800 EXR is the other. This is a more basic ultra-slim camera, only point-and-shoot and with a short zoom range," CreationDate="2011-01-01T16:55:10.883" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7826" PostId="6255" Text="@mattm - It turns out American's rule is one of the most lax (and I take advantage of it often :) because they use linear inches (H+W+D as you said), unfortunately many airlines have an independent limit in each dimension. Exceeding in just one is enough to be rejected. That being, said, yes you can absolutely find things that fit whichever rule you want and I strongly advise people to consider that." CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:06:54.633" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7828" PostId="6235" Text="+1 for the airline analogy :-)... I hate that." CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:31:21.680" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7829" PostId="6281" Text="So the ranger is better suited for:&#xA;• Mobility. Easier to move to an on set location&#xA;• Lighter system to carry&#xA;• Flexibility with 3rd party components&#xA;&#xA;Do both system provide the same &quot;light&quot; quality. Does one system have the ability to provide a broader range of brightness or effect with it's lighting system?&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:33:27.297" UserId="2913" />
  <row Id="7830" PostId="6226" Text="I like the answer overall. Clearly everyone else does too, so I am going to go ahead and accept this. But do you buy into the dust argument? I also find it strange that says Canon says to do this and Nikon says not to. @Matt Grum seems to think that Nikon is just covering themselves for no real reason." CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:35:35.763" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7831" PostId="6226" Text="By the way, I was wondering if &quot;frying&quot; the lens or camera could happen -- or if this was really just about dust. You guessed right since I'm basically a student :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:37:19.770" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7832" PostId="6281" Text="You can achieve pretty much the same effects with both (with adapters to use the Rangers in the same basic modifiers as the mains-powered heads and monolights), but you won't be able to shoot nearly as quickly with the Ranger and the LED modeling light isn't quite the same as an incandescent. Again, which system you buy depends on what kind of work you plan to do -- if you can count on power being available, the DLite is a better choice. The last thing you want is to miss *the shot* because you're waiting for your flash to recycle." CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:53:24.837" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7833" PostId="6270" Score="4" Text="Mine is &quot;Spend More on camera gear!&quot; ;P" CreationDate="2011-01-01T17:59:08.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7834" PostId="6281" Text="Thanks for the feedback this has helped" CreationDate="2011-01-01T18:29:52.013" UserId="2913" />
  <row Id="7835" PostId="6226" Text="Thanks! I'm afraid the only comment I can add to the 'dust question' is an anecdotal one... I've been using dSLR cameras for... ohhh... a decade or more now, and have never bothered turning off my camera while changing lenses... In all that time I've never lost a single picture to dust... I'll go one step further- I can't recall ever having had to erase a dust spot in Photoshop. All that seems to indicate (to me at least) that the problem of the charged sensor attracting dust- even if it is completely true- is a very minor problem at best." CreationDate="2011-01-01T19:57:31.663" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7836" PostId="6286" Text="Can't it also symbolize that the center focusing point should is cross-type (sensitive to both horizontal and vertical contrast changes)?" CreationDate="2011-01-01T20:06:46.740" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7837" PostId="6286" Text="@che: It would have been too easy if, for example, the center point was always red (or thick). But this doesn't seem to be the case." CreationDate="2011-01-01T20:16:57.257" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="7838" PostId="6286" Text="@che: yep, as said, it's not that. I've 19 cross-type out of 45 AF points and they are all thin apart the red selected one." CreationDate="2011-01-01T20:21:37.223" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="7839" PostId="6286" Text="@Jukka: Then my next theory would be it's a difference between selected AF points and points that were actually focused." CreationDate="2011-01-01T20:26:41.320" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="7840" PostId="6286" Score="1" Text="I poked around for a while on this and there's not a lot out there, but I did manage to dig up two separate (but not 'official Apple') forum threads on 'teh interwebs' where users were experiencing the same thing and having the same question with the Canon 500D. Responses seem to suggest this is a bug exclusive to the Canon 500D specifically. Wasn't really enough for me to feel comfortable committing to an answer on, but thought it might add to the overall discussion..." CreationDate="2011-01-01T22:28:13.137" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7841" PostId="6277" Score="5" Text="You're lucky you have friends that use different brands... ask to try them out!" CreationDate="2011-01-01T22:29:33.460" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7842" PostId="6279" Score="4" Text="Sharing lenses is a good reason - but different terminology is not. I don't think they will be unable to communicate because one says IS and the other says VR. In fact, it might be nice to educate each other about the different brands." CreationDate="2011-01-01T22:30:52.463" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7844" PostId="6277" Score="3" Text="As long as you stick with a 'major' brand, every camera brand/model is going to get the basic job done... This is way too general a question in order to supply a useful and comprehensive answer. What do you plan on doing with the camera? What's your price range? Do you anticipate being a 'casual' photographer, or are you someone who is going to eventually 'go pro' (or even semi-pro)? Etc., etc., etc. " CreationDate="2011-01-01T22:38:52.070" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7845" PostId="6280" Text="please bear in mind these guidelines: teach us all how to evaluate lighting systems in general, not how to make a specific buying decision http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/" CreationDate="2011-01-01T22:41:21.587" UserId="94" />
  <row Id="7846" PostId="6286" Score="1" Text="Assuming for the moment that it's NOT a bug, it does make me think we could 'reverse engineer' the purposes of the different colors by shooting some test shots. What happens if you manually select a focus point, for example?" CreationDate="2011-01-01T22:44:10.710" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7847" PostId="6286" Text="@Jay: A bug sounds like a reasonable explanation. I tried to do a bit of reverse engineering but didn't find that much logic in it. If I manually select the center point, usually the center point is thick white and the rightmost point is thin red. If I select a different focus point manually, the point I selected is thick white and there are no red points..." CreationDate="2011-01-01T23:25:32.413" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="7848" PostId="6286" Score="1" Text="The part in the posts I found that made my little mind go 'hmmm' was that they both mentioned a thin red rightmost focus point that never changed, and that's what your photo showed too. If you're seeing that on lots of photos it sure seems like additional circumstantial evidence of bug-like behavior. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-01T23:37:10.297" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7849" PostId="6279" Score="2" Text="That's just one example... There are lots of other small details, including menu names, buttons, etc." CreationDate="2011-01-02T00:06:39.687" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="7850" PostId="6286" Text="@Jay: Could you perhaps write an answer with some links to the posts that you found, and I can then accept it (for now)?" CreationDate="2011-01-02T00:11:14.840" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="7851" PostId="6296" Text="A bit of time spent with view cameras can teach you an awful lot. You get to look at a lot of lens technology simply mounting the lenses in the shutters (shutters are sold separately from the lenses, and you usually have to separate the groups in order to mount the shutter on the lens and the lens/shutter to the lens boards) and you have a century's progress at your fingertips to look at. You might want to try it some time." CreationDate="2011-01-02T00:48:04.113" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7852" PostId="6286" Text="You bet. Will have to tackle it later this evening, though. Wife and kids want my attention for the next few hours. Quite unreasonable of them, wouldn't you say? ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-02T01:04:33.187" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7853" PostId="6296" Text="Dude.  Seriously.  Could you possibly be more condescending?  Maybe you should try running a business sometime, and see what it takes to set prices." CreationDate="2011-01-02T01:52:15.457" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7854" PostId="6295" Score="2" Text="This is a great camera and I would recommend it as well but to another question :) Actually, I sent a friend to buy one last week. This one is great for learning photography since it has a complete set of manual controls and a versatile lens. It is not too fast though." CreationDate="2011-01-02T01:52:43.257" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7855" PostId="6176" Score="1" Text="@Massimo - Your last 3 comments which are just links are not really useful because you simply point to the homepage of rather large sites. It's as if you asked me where to find a needle and I showed you a haystack ;) The goal here is to have questions with tightly focused answers." CreationDate="2011-01-02T01:57:52.750" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7856" PostId="6296" Text="Been there, done that. I don't think anybody's going to begrudge anybody an adequate profit margin -- none of the makers are in it for charitable write-offs. That said, the really fast glass doesn't exactly spring off the shelves, and except among amateurs it's not about prestige -- pros buy what they need (they have their own profit margins to watch). Fast glass costs more to make, between exotic materials, aspherical elements and weird focus mechanisms. It's not about condescension. Take a look at large format equipment if you get a chance -- it does help. " CreationDate="2011-01-02T02:05:13.987" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="7857" PostId="6296" Text="But to say that it's purely technology is to buy into the marketing reasons that the companies give, rather than paying attention to the profit motive.  Canon makes an equivalent lens that's selling for $1.4k, certainly cheaper than the Nikon.  I have used neither, and so cannot say which one is better, but on paper, they are equivalent.  So is Canon undercharging, Nikon over, both under, both over?  That's the market and pricing, not the tech or the materials.  I suspect that the tech, materials, production, etc, are dictating a bottom edge, but I don't think we're seeing it (yet)." CreationDate="2011-01-02T02:28:23.613" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7858" PostId="6279" Score="4" Text="I agree with the &quot;go with what your friends have&quot;, but if your more serious photog friend has better lens to borrow than just the kit lens of your upgraded friends (me not knowing who has what lenses), you might consider Nikon." CreationDate="2011-01-02T04:14:57.320" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7859" PostId="6281" Text="Does LED light provide anything more to a picture that an incandescent couldn't do ? " CreationDate="2011-01-02T04:21:19.093" UserId="2913" />
  <row Id="7861" PostId="6299" Score="5" Text="This is a good question in general, but I don't think it's specific to photography. We tend to have large amounts of irreproducible data, but from the point of view of backups, I don't think there's anything unique. This question would be better for http://superuser.com/ , or given your edit, for http://unix.stackexchange.com/." CreationDate="2011-01-02T12:44:25.467" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7862" PostId="6301" Score="1" Text="The point is, since hard drive space is limited, I'd delete the originals from my laptop so the backup would actually be the _only_ copy of the files. That's why I'm worried about HD failure." CreationDate="2011-01-02T13:04:59.263" UserId="2923" />
  <row Id="7863" PostId="3561" Text="See http://pttl.mattdm.org/feature:customizable-auto-off if this is important to you." CreationDate="2011-01-02T13:23:58.000" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7864" PostId="6259" Text="Someone voted this down. I'm curious as to why." CreationDate="2011-01-02T13:26:59.370" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7865" PostId="6301" Score="1" Text="If your data is valuable, use *both* of these. The local copy is convenient, and protects you in case the online service suddenly goes out of business. And the online copy protects you against both drive failure and more tragic scenarios. (The previous experience probably *was* chance, but it's the sort of chance that is in fact inevitable and worth planning for.)" CreationDate="2011-01-02T13:45:12.257" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7866" PostId="3537" Text="Note that Canon calls their strobe flashes &quot;speedlite&quot;, and Nikon uses &quot;speedlight&quot;. This is to distinguish them from studio lighting, which generally has a longer duration. As far as I know, Pentax just uses &quot;flash&quot;. I'm removing the speedlite tag." CreationDate="2011-01-02T13:55:27.223" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7867" PostId="6299" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2138/storage-recommendations" CreationDate="2011-01-02T13:59:17.660" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7868" PostId="6223" Score="1" Text="Why does my explanation seem contrary to common sense? Common sense says to me that when the sensor is not doing anything, there's no current flowing through it and thus no charge." CreationDate="2011-01-02T14:39:34.740" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7869" PostId="6301" Score="1" Text="There are fireproof enclosures available as well as at least one fireproof safe that I found with a USB cable of all things that allows for a USB drive to be connected from inside the safe. So, if online is not an option because of ongoing cost, one of these might add some additional security for a more local solution." CreationDate="2011-01-02T14:58:11.500" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7870" PostId="6306" Text="thanks to the concise answer. I already have a 4 year old body and I can't afford anything newer, that's why I was looking into something older. If I had the money, I'd buy a D3X without thinking about it. In reality, there are things with higher priority like family, house, car, motorcycle, so the camera is low in the priority list. That's why I thought I could get an older pro level body and older lenses - in the end, it's about **the excitement for the money spent**." CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:29:53.733" UserId="2925" />
  <row Id="7872" PostId="6249" Text="Surely Moire is less of a problem as resolution increases. Moire is the result of aliasing (hence the &quot;anti-aliasing&quot; filter) which is worse when the sampling frequency is close to the spatial frequency of the scene detail. Increase the sampling frequency for the same scene and aliasing is less of a problem. In music production anti-aliasing filters are less important when using a higher sampling frequency in the AD conversion (e.g. 96khz instead of 44khz) which is analogous to a higher resolution sensor." CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:37:21.013" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7873" PostId="6277" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What are considerations when choosing a DSLR brand?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/175/what-are-considerations-when-choosing-a-dslr-brand)" CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:12:35.563" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7874" PostId="6300" Score="2" Text="Already good but not enough. Should you have an issue in your house (robbery, fire...) you lose everything." CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:42:36.067" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="7875" PostId="6299" Text="What is the capacity of your current HDD and how much space is used?" CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:44:11.667" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="7876" PostId="6301" Text="Huh, interesting. Of course, then, by trapping all the heat in, you increase the chance of a mundane drive failure. Can't win. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:57:55.757" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7877" PostId="6258" Text="@Ysap: I wouldn't venture to guess when any particular individual encounters the limitations of their kit. I started photography only about a year and a half ago, and it was only a couple months before I felt the limitations of both my camera body and kit lens. I purchased my first quality lens within two months. I purchased my first L-series lens within 6 months. If Kacalapy feels limited, then he should by all means upgrade. The key point is that he needs to decide what will free his limitations." CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:59:43.697" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7878" PostId="6306" Score="1" Text="As a Nikon shooter, I agree with this assessment.  The D100 is not worth it compared to the D80, but if you really can wait, save for a used D200.  That is a pro level body, with weather sealing, similar IQ to the D80 but with metering on older lenses (if that's what you require).  If you don't have the older lenses, just go for the d80." CreationDate="2011-01-02T17:14:53.573" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7879" PostId="6301" Score="1" Text="Well, for the little drives that are powered from USB, probably not an issue. Of course, as solid state drives get bigger and cheaper, I think it becomes even less an issue. The tech is improving. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-02T17:32:50.380" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7880" PostId="3222" Text="Also useful for panoramic shots. I'm not aware of any dSLRs which do this (in live view or otherwise), but some point-and-shoot cameras do. (In panorama-mode... A stop-motion mode would be cool too. " CreationDate="2011-01-02T19:15:13.190" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7881" PostId="6173" Text="@markbruns: Sorry for getting back late. I was on vacation, and didn't have enough time to respond when I checked for updates. Shortly after posting the question I realized that I need a tripod for this. I will post about my learning when I actually end up doing it. I don't have the warranty since I have taken my camera back here to India after purchasing it through a friend in the US. I guess when I try it, I will most probably be experimenting with my video camcorder because the actuations are far lesser than I had imagined. It's my first (very) expensive purchase, so I'm little hesitant :)" CreationDate="2011-01-02T19:23:53.120" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="7882" PostId="6154" Score="1" Text="May be a dumb question: Does this also mean that shooting videos will eat away that number pretty quickly?" CreationDate="2011-01-02T19:29:23.897" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="7883" PostId="6301" Text="@Seamus: I've edited my answer per your comment." CreationDate="2011-01-02T20:01:16.757" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="7884" PostId="6154" Score="4" Text="@artknish - No. Shooting video does not use the shutter, it simply reads the sensor at quick intervals. This is sometimes called 'electronic shutter' as opposed to 'mechanical shutter'. No mechanical DSLR shutter than I know of could shoot at 24 FPS (or 30) for that matter. This is one reason you get certain motion artifacts while recording video. Just Google 'Jello effect' for examples." CreationDate="2011-01-02T20:28:52.563" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7885" PostId="6223" Text="@matt - Can you here the TV on Mute? I can't but my wife can. I did not believe her at first but I wondered why. It is not exactly the same, but the answer is that it takes time to initialize the sensor. It is better to keep it ready than turn it back on for each picture." CreationDate="2011-01-02T20:32:48.630" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7886" PostId="6299" Text="Also relevant: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/292/what-method-is-best-to-take-backups-of-your-digital-photos" CreationDate="2011-01-02T20:41:30.713" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="7887" PostId="6308" Text="+1, this is also my solution. I use Unison" CreationDate="2011-01-02T20:46:17.357" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="7888" PostId="6258" Text="http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/01/definition.html" CreationDate="2011-01-02T20:53:26.863" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7889" PostId="6316" Text="Didn't know you could drag the lock icon, that is awesome. Seems to convert it to a &quot;normal&quot; layer. Thx!" CreationDate="2011-01-02T22:59:22.977" UserId="2071" />
  <row Id="7890" PostId="6321" Text="Thanks! Worked like a charm!!! I use jsdb (http://www.jsdb.org) as my swiss-army-knife for computing, and I was able to write template lines to autogenerate the smart collection file. Then I imported it into Lightroom, and the photos appeared. Then I dragged them all into a regular collection." CreationDate="2011-01-02T23:19:39.413" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="7891" PostId="5963" Text="Is there a reason you couldn't tag an item the same way you'd tag a person? It'd just be a separate pool, but otherwise, most of the functionality I would envision useful for such a thing would be the same..." CreationDate="2011-01-02T23:43:31.637" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="7892" PostId="3541" Text="I was under the impression that high speed sync couldn't really help your flash/ambient ratio much, because you lose power as the flash has to pulse multiple times as the shutter travels." CreationDate="2011-01-03T00:33:25.600" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7893" PostId="6296" Text="Of course there is a profit motive, and both R&amp;D/tech and profit are factors. I don't think Stan is saying there isn't a profit motive. But glass is expensive, and good glass is expensive to make. The Canon 35/1.4 was introduced in 1998, while the Nikon equivalent quoted was introduced in 2010; the advances alone will have made a huge difference in cost, and hence, pricing." CreationDate="2011-01-03T01:34:57.617" UserId="1868" />
  <row Id="7894" PostId="6325" Text="This is a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3338/ ." CreationDate="2011-01-03T01:50:51.103" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7895" PostId="6325" Text="Although that question has some Canon-specific quirks in the answers, just as this might have Nikon-specific ones." CreationDate="2011-01-03T01:51:59.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7896" PostId="6325" Text="And http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/103/ and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/ , in different aspects." CreationDate="2011-01-03T01:53:52.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7897" PostId="3338" Text="Aspects of this are covered at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/103/ and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/ " CreationDate="2011-01-03T01:54:15.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7898" PostId="6321" Text="I'm still curious as to why you needed to create a smart collection by hand, instead of just matching the beginning of the filename..." CreationDate="2011-01-03T02:00:50.017" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="7899" PostId="6326" Score="2" Text="Are you looking to find approximate matches (say, same image, different metadata), or is finding exact matches good enough?" CreationDate="2011-01-03T02:21:27.033" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7900" PostId="6223" Score="1" Text="@Itai Your wife can hear the TV on mute because the amplifier is still trying to amplify the input signal even if the TV is not sending a signal - the noise on the line gets amplified. A camera is not a mains powered device, keeping the sensor powered on all the time seems like a bad idea in a battery powered device. As far as I know the only thing you need to do before shooting is earth the charge from the photosites before opening the shutter, something that is done before any shot anyway..." CreationDate="2011-01-03T02:57:58.370" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7901" PostId="6223" Score="1" Text="@lindes Think about it this way, if the sensor cleaning mode somehow kept the sensor in an uncharged state, why does the camera not keep the sensor in this state all the time, since keeping the sensor uncharged ought to drain the battery less..." CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:00:16.123" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7902" PostId="6308" Text="I'm not familiar with Unison though I will check it our - for various OCD-esque reasons I like to be in total control of my backup solution so I prefer to write my own software, in addition to owning the hardware. Fortunately writing a script to sync to files isn't too hard!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:04:14.967" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7904" PostId="6324" Text="@Sebastien: because I have 4000+ pictures so far in Lightroom and I want a particular set of 139 of them to be marked as being in a collection, where exact set of 139 matches the collection I uploaded to my flickr webpage before I started using Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:09:35.667" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="7905" PostId="6324" Text="The ones I don't want put in that collection are not distinguishable from the ones that are by any other way than filename (or by me looking at the photos)." CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:11:22.857" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="7906" PostId="6310" Text="+1 for the sandwich!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:21:00.000" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="7907" PostId="6327" Score="1" Text="Good explanation. I'll add another way of explaining it (for my own benefit :-) to help make it more clear? Another way of saying &quot;just the amount of 'stuff' you can fit in the frame&quot; changes is that the DX sensor takes the standard image you get on an FX sensor and crops for you. When you think about it that way, it becomes clear that if you were to print the (equivalent) DX and FX images on the same size paper, the DX image would look blown up because it's as though you cropped the FX image and stretched it out to the same paper size." CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:38:16.240" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7908" PostId="6154" Text="@Itai: Thanks for the answers." CreationDate="2011-01-03T05:20:54.180" UserId="1567" />
  <row Id="7909" PostId="3541" Text="@Evan, it doesn't help your ratio (it actually does hurt it) so much as allowing you to bring down the overall exposure so you don't clip everything.  ND filters will retain a better ratio if you need the distance for fill flash." CreationDate="2011-01-03T05:27:13.107" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="7910" PostId="6301" Score="4" Text="I'd like to point out the common saying &quot;RAID is not a backup&quot;. Even an external hard drive is a much better backup, because it can be configured to be safer (e.g. if you or a virus accidentally deletes a file it can keep a copy) and it is not susceptible to hardware malfunctions like a failing power supply zapping hardware components. Still, online backup is the best because it protects against catastrophes like fires. I can't afford real online backup, but I put jpeg copies of my favorite photos somewhere online. " CreationDate="2011-01-03T05:40:45.077" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="7911" PostId="5312" Text="Aw, JPEG only? Any ones that support DNG?" CreationDate="2011-01-03T06:05:21.683" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="7912" PostId="4690" Text="Significant legal objections, yes. Significant ethical objections, well, that's debatable, and frankly is strongly underaddressed." CreationDate="2011-01-03T10:08:11.190" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="7913" PostId="6334" Score="2" Text="Perspective is a function of vantage point, not lens focal length or field of view. The confusion generally arises from the fact that people compare pictures taken with 35mm@FX to pictures taken with 35mm@DX and say that 'see, the perspective changes'. The trick is that they move around in order to fit the same amount of foreground to the frame, which in turn causes perspective change." CreationDate="2011-01-03T10:30:24.990" UserId="1774" />
  <row Id="7914" PostId="6253" Text="It seems a very split debate, and you made a very good argument. I have to agree with a lot of your points however chose the other answer as I reading all the answers I can see that in some cases the prime may still not work and the sb-400 is small light unit with long battery life. I am sure long term I will end up with both." CreationDate="2011-01-03T10:59:08.000" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="7915" PostId="6338" Text="Yes, the before/after functionality is really awesome, I use it all the time and can't understand why I didn't thought of it when writing my reply." CreationDate="2011-01-03T11:10:24.970" UserId="2017" />
  <row Id="7916" PostId="6339" Text="Thanks Matt, this was my guess too... Let's see if somebody here tried already to print rotated pictures" CreationDate="2011-01-03T12:08:42.520" UserId="2934" />
  <row Id="7917" PostId="6339" Text="Now I think about it I've definitely printed both portrait and landscape oriented photos in labs in the UK, since I edit most of my photos I'll always rotate them to the correct orientation in order to work on them." CreationDate="2011-01-03T12:47:12.147" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7918" PostId="6339" Text="Great! Thanks a lot..." CreationDate="2011-01-03T12:59:36.077" UserId="2934" />
  <row Id="7919" PostId="6304" Text="This sounds like a very paranoid solution. I'm also not sure why you're worried about what'll happen in 25 years; a mirror RAID set can keep your data safe indefinitely." CreationDate="2011-01-03T13:26:36.807" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="7920" PostId="6337" Text="Matt, fantastic answer, thank you! Going full-frame is not an option for me right now (I would like to explore most of my current camera), so I'll definitely check out the Sigma lens. " CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:04:58.477" UserId="1860" />
  <row Id="7921" PostId="6337" Text="I just got the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 the other day and its AMAZING." CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:09:07.420" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7923" PostId="6337" Text="@Darius Here's an example of the Sigma http://www.flickr.com/photos/55358132@N05/5314328781/" CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:18:37.303" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="7924" PostId="6327" Text="Thanks, I appreciate the detailed explanation." CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:37:57.427" UserId="2832" />
  <row Id="7925" PostId="6330" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/51/21" CreationDate="2011-01-03T14:40:10.610" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7926" PostId="6301" Text="I think this answer could be improved by pointing out the benefits of using Dropbox. For example, files are kept synced between multiple computers as well as online (so if your work permits, install Dropbox on your work computer and all your photos are backed up there as well). You can also access your photos anywhere, and it's great for quick photo albums - just dump files in the photos folder. Making a $ to $ comparison between an external hard disk and Dropbox isn't fair, I feel. (I don't work for Dropbox but I do pay for 50GB and use it to backup / sync all my RAWs and my Lightroom catalog" CreationDate="2011-01-03T15:14:32.420" UserId="2336" />
  <row Id="7927" PostId="6223" Text="@matt - Guess I was not clear, she can hear the actual conversations/dialog of the show in progress, not a humming noise. I stuck my head against the TV and yes, it still outputs audio on Mute. Honestly, it did surprise me at first but it makes the transition from mute to unmute smoother and quicker. One of my TVs has a 'speaker off' button too and that one outputs a 'jolt' (for lack of a better word) of sound when pressed, I assume from the circuit opening and closing." CreationDate="2011-01-03T16:06:43.117" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7928" PostId="6326" Text="Exact matches will be good enough." CreationDate="2011-01-03T16:31:02.007" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="7929" PostId="6337" Score="3" Text="You're out of Tobasco... how sad!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T16:47:43.567" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="7930" PostId="6299" Text="if using an external hd, definitely look into something automatic like Syncback!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T16:55:28.500" UserId="1482" />
  <row Id="7932" PostId="4687" Text="Another related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5369" CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:14:34.413" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7933" PostId="4694" Text="FWIW, Pentax calls their version of matrix metering &quot;multi-segment metering&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:18:55.893" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7934" PostId="6337" Text="There's a bit left!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:20:35.877" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="7937" PostId="6347" Text="Nice, I didn't know about that kbd tag. BTW Lightroom can do do that, except for HDR (Scriptable through a free third-party). Look at this one though: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5329/open-source-highly-scriptable-photo-management-platform-for-power-users-like" CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:45:28.720" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="7938" PostId="6347" Score="6" Text="I don't think there's a risk of being closed as a duplicate, but there is a pretty real problem: you've got a very, very specific wish list which is a) unlikely to be precisely met by any existing software and b) unlikely to be a generally helpful question since it's unlikely to be exactly someone else's question." CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:52:22.633" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="7939" PostId="6347" Text="@sebastien I must say that the question is close. However it focuses on *open-source*, while I don't mind to pay a *good* software (free is fine also!). So the answers should be more opened..." CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:53:43.737" UserId="2834" />
  <row Id="7940" PostId="6347" Text="@mattdamon The keys could be anything as long as the keyboard works (mouse not necessary). It's a convenient database, easily fed, and a fast image processor... with a clever scripting mechanism :-) Actually, if had more time, I'd make it in C++, but it is a rather big project." CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:56:56.183" UserId="2834" />
  <row Id="7941" PostId="6338" Text="Thanks, very useful tips!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T18:02:24.000" UserId="2071" />
  <row Id="7942" PostId="6337" Text="For convenience and easier comparison, here are the dpreview lens tests (on APS-C) side by side: http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/widget/Fullscreen.ashx?reviews=26,24&amp;fullscreen=true&amp;av=1.667,1.667&amp;fl=50,50&amp;vis=VisualiserSharpnessMTF,VisualiserSharpnessMTF&amp;stack=horizontal&amp;&amp;config=LensReviewConfiguration.xml%3F2 You can also choose the data of the aforementioned Sigma 50mm f/1.4 from the menu." CreationDate="2011-01-03T18:37:53.227" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="7943" PostId="6176" Text="Sorry for the three messages; firefox 3.6.13 / ubuntu 10.04 when I hit enter the post is closed and published. I wanted to put the three links on three lines of one message. And yes, they aren't strict answers, but &quot;only&quot; good web sites for cameras comparison. Perhaps other people will like them." CreationDate="2011-01-03T18:42:15.157" UserId="2875" />
  <row Id="7944" PostId="6350" Text="That's incredible! I can't wait to see the picture of the box. Did you read about this or a similar technique anywhere? If so, please post some links. If not... you are quite inventive and I'm *extremely impressed* :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-03T18:46:02.677" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7945" PostId="6347" Score="1" Text="Seems like the most limiting factor in your list might be 'on the Mac.' " CreationDate="2011-01-03T19:14:13.093" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7946" PostId="6311" Text="Worth looking at CrashPlan - they'll post you a (next day delivery even) disk with your backup on it to allow you to recover faster." CreationDate="2011-01-03T19:15:39.693" UserId="1969" />
  <row Id="7947" PostId="6176" Text="@Massimo - OK. Please refrain from doing that in the future. This belongs to another question or a community wiki. There is already one for lens review sites I believe, here is not the easiest place to find this. Difficult to find information is much less useful." CreationDate="2011-01-03T19:21:37.000" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="7950" PostId="6223" Text="@MattGrum: Are you certain, or are you guessing?  If the former, could you please site a reference or explain exactly why?  I'm admit I'm only guessing (not enough EE training), but imagine that in sensor cleaning mode, a *relatively* high-current but low-voltage constant signal is applied to the sensor, which is also connected through a drain resistor, just to keep it all at a constant and low voltage, versus allowing static charge to exist.  I'm happy to admit I might be way wrong, I just want to know if you're guessing (like me) or know, and if you know, I want more details... please! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-03T20:04:00.093" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="7952" PostId="6353" Score="1" Text="A bit of a nitpick, but I think that good software engineering practices solve user problems.  UNIX-style software engineering emphasizes the use of many small tools combined to solve problems, while other approaches do use 'monolithic' tools to solve a task or set of user tasks (ie, excel or word).  It's more of a style thing of whether to have one or many programs, not a 'best practices' thing." CreationDate="2011-01-03T20:46:44.797" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7953" PostId="6361" Text="I know this answer is a bit late, however I accidentally posted it to a question about partial solar eclipses (I could have sworn it said lunar, but oh well.) Hopefully this answer is still useful here." CreationDate="2011-01-03T20:53:35.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7954" PostId="6352" Text="Apologies for posting my wrong-topic answer. For some reason I read &quot;lunar&quot; everywhere you have &quot;solar&quot;. :o I must have lunar eclipses on the mind or something. " CreationDate="2011-01-03T20:56:48.007" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7955" PostId="6353" Text="I couldn't agree more with @mmr. Good programming practices are subjective at best, and there are fundamental and very different schools of thought about what &quot;good software engineering practices&quot; are. Different best practices service different areas and needs as well...there is no one size fits all here. When it comes to photography post-processing workflow, a single tool that solves all of a photographers problems would be FANTASTIC...and I certainly don't think its something that shouldn't be sought after simply because, as mmr pointed out, UNIX style == many small tools." CreationDate="2011-01-03T21:01:32.527" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7956" PostId="6358" Text="ROFL @ &quot;LIKE A NINJA RIDING ON THE BACK OF A PIRATE&quot;. |D:] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sfs2FRgp-ow -&gt; &quot;Everything is better...with PIRATES.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-03T21:08:08.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7957" PostId="6253" Text="@John-- glad you could make a decision. Hopefully, you'll get some good shots of the wee one :)" CreationDate="2011-01-03T21:21:31.843" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="7958" PostId="6306" Text="Completely agree with mmr. I have had a D100, D200, and D300. Don't waste your money on the D100, it is noisy above ISO 400! A used D200 will work great up to ISO 1000. And it is a tank, I took one all over the world many times as a first, then backup body... " CreationDate="2011-01-03T21:25:46.560" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="7959" PostId="6358" Text="+1 LOL - Ninjas and pirates in one go!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T21:30:28.940" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="7960" PostId="6353" Text="true, there are other styles of engineering, however, I think it's unfair to say that only the unix world uses the mentality of a tool doing one thing very well. Adobe follows the same mentality on both Windows and Mac. Apple follows the same mentality on many of their apps. The open source world follows that mentality across all platforms. Not sure who that leaves in the image processing world... but everyone seems to be following that model in some way or another." CreationDate="2011-01-03T22:28:35.717" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7961" PostId="6348" Text="Very respectable results for 20 years! Like you said, most of the image is still quite good." CreationDate="2011-01-03T22:37:04.660" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="7962" PostId="83" Text="Or, just download VirtualBox (too lazy to link it). It saves you the $200 scam money, and a more versatile (and probably faster) product!" CreationDate="2011-01-03T23:40:36.610" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="7963" PostId="51" Text="I don't even use Windows and my EOS 550D was supported right off the bat with Ubuntu 10.10 x64. I can't run the EOS Utility, but there exist much better programs for everything except Windows ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-03T23:41:22.770" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="7964" PostId="2703" Text="Looks like they don't have a presence in the US. I edited the answer to reflect this." CreationDate="2011-01-03T23:51:33.553" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="7965" PostId="6353" Text="With Adobe apps, I wouldn't say that they just do &quot;one&quot; thing well. Most Adobe tools are adept at several things, and when it comes to Photoshop...its adapt at a ton of things. It is not just a pixel editor, nor is it just a photo editor, nor is it just a 2D editor anymore. It is a fairly monolithic, highly capable app with a very broad featureset. The notion of a &quot;tool that does *one* thing well&quot; seems far set from any Adobe application to me...and does seem firmly rooted in the original concept about unix. " CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:04:28.400" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7966" PostId="6353" Text="Just to demonstrate the point. Photoshop currently does: pixel peeper editing, graphic design editing, photographic editing, raw editing, panoramic stitching, HDR merging/tone mapping, fairly advanced 3D editing, non-destructive editing and image manipulation (i.e. content aware fill, puppeteering), and that is just the start. I would consider each on of those things something that could be done well with a distinct tool, but Photoshop does all of them in a single monolithic application." CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:07:30.613" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7967" PostId="6359" Text="Binocular works too for projecting on a sheet of paper." CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:16:25.680" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7968" PostId="6358" Text="@Alan To be honest, I'm not familiar with Adobe latest stuff - Bridge for instance. But when I think Adobe, I see heavy tools, not always convenient, nor intuitive... " CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:16:26.870" UserId="2834" />
  <row Id="7969" PostId="6304" Score="1" Text="@Josh - I believe only if you have the high end products that can scrub your data to ensure checksums match. I believe Raid 6 will not protect against bitrot but am happy to be proven wrong!" CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:23:57.460" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="7970" PostId="6311" Text="+1, working with semi-reliable (see Wikileaks) online-storage-providers over not necessarily existing connections with no real possibilites for proper encryption (of possibly private pictures) is no real backup strategy at all. Some duplicated HDs with a nice TrueCrypt will always fit into a bank vault and your parents home." CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:29:51.960" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7971" PostId="6354" Text="RAID without proper RAID-controller is only useful for speeding the system up. Software RAID is not secure and leads to nice f***ups." CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:33:15.343" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7972" PostId="6353" Score="1" Text="@jrista, I would argue that that isn't *one* application. You're talking about a handfull of different apps in Creative Suite there (PS, Illustrator, ACR, Dream Weaver, Fireworks, After Effects, etc.) :)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:33:34.670" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="7973" PostId="6359" Text="@Leonidas Yes, good idea.  For high quality, photographers may prefer to use a decent lens.  (Unless the binoculars are extremely good, they will exhibit visible chromatic aberration.)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:37:39.473" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="7974" PostId="6347" Text="The real limiting factor and wishful thinking starts with &quot;one software&quot;. Everybody uses a set of applications for such complex tasks. Heck, even Adobe Photoshop, which covers most of OP requirements is a set of apps." CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:44:31.390" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="7975" PostId="6376" Score="5" Text="How much do you want to spend?" CreationDate="2011-01-04T00:59:19.113" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7976" PostId="6376" Score="3" Text="Do you intend to print your photos (thus, you need a really accurate monitor), or simply view them and make them *pop* (thus, you need a monitor that will simply saturate your color palate and get bright enough to really blow out the whites)." CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:01:08.897" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7977" PostId="6363" Text="You should also read http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2706/what-is-bokeh-really and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3096/what-makes-a-good-cameras-like-dslr-can-take-a-good-bokeh-and-the-other-cameras" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:02:15.073" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7978" PostId="6376" Text="How big of a display are you looking to get?" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:02:21.893" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7979" PostId="6371" Text="+1 for reading @kacalapy's question history :-). He has asked a lot about this and there is a ton of useful info in the answers :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:07:04.003" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="7980" PostId="6371" Text="I am off to best buy today, if i ever get out of work, to pick up the 35mm f/1.8 prime. I cant wait." CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:14:10.783" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="7981" PostId="6363" Text="We should be focusing more on general advice and less on specific lenses; see http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/. Could you edit your question to be less brand/model-specific? The advice given in the answers here should really apply to any interchangeable lens camera, not just the Nikon D7000." CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:32:23.007" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7982" PostId="6348" Text="I see about 8 vertical bands; are those present in the original print, or are they artifacts of scanning?" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:40:16.950" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="7984" PostId="6353" Text="@Cabby: I am not talking about Creative Suite...I am specifically talking about just Photoshop. Photoshop does all of those things, and I've used it to do most of those things myself for years. The beauty of Photoshop is that it does so many things in one tool. Each of the applications you listed also do more than &quot;one&quot; thing...unless your level of granularity is particularly huge (i.e. After Effects does video editing. Thats a VERY broad bucket that your calling &quot;one&quot; thing. In reality, video editing is only one of perhaps three major video processing related buckets covered by After Effects)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:52:52.670" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7985" PostId="6353" Text="Its much like the beauty of Microsoft Visual Studio...developing software on the Microsoft platform is such a dream because you can perform the entire, full life-cycle workflow of software planning, development, and release with a single monolithic, fully integrated application. Any time I have to revert to Java development, I fume at how many zillions of tiny little tools and frameworks and commands and utilities I have to resort to, and all the manual time I have to spend integrating them, to achieve what usually takes 30 seconds to a couple minutes in Visual Studio." CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:58:03.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="7987" PostId="6383" Score="2" Text="I've had good luck scanning pictures on glass for customers. Maybe you scan it at as high a resolution as you can on a flatbed scanner first and then try jrista's solution? That way if getting it off the glass degrades the picture past the point of acceptability at least you have a scan which you can use to make prints. If you *are* able to get the print off the glass, you can always pay a few bucks to have Kinko's put it on a drum scanner so you get an ultra-high resolution scan from which you can generate any future prints..." CreationDate="2011-01-04T04:27:31.860" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7988" PostId="6386" Score="4" Text="Just wanted to add that when buying LCD LED-Backlit monitors, ones with a full RGB-LED array (Like the LaCie one) is important for better colour. Just simply having an LED-Backlit monitor doesn't necessarily mean the colour is better than a CCFL- however, factoring in a true RGB-LED LCD monitor, and you've got better colour reproduction. Also, the ones that aren't edge-lit have the added benefit of being able to selectively shut off, giving you deep, deep blacks if needed." CreationDate="2011-01-04T05:00:47.970" UserId="1926" />
  <row Id="7989" PostId="6347" Text="Not sure why this question keeps getting downvoted. It might be a little **too** specific, but I don't think it's a bad question, per-se. Then again, I guess thats why we have a voting system:)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T06:03:54.530" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="7990" PostId="6358" Text="I concur, they are heavy tools, and not necessarily intuitive. I would liken Photoshop to programming with Perl; there is more than one way to do what you want. As you progress in skill, you are rewarded with more creative options. That said, as a photographer, I rarely use photoshop, and instead opt for Adobe Lightroom, which is a comprehensive photographic workflow management system. Since you need HDR, image processing, and so on, Photoshop is a better answer; though with 3rd party plugins it is possible to do most of what you want inside Lightroom (including applying photoshops macros)." CreationDate="2011-01-04T06:06:02.890" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="7991" PostId="6189" Text="I linked the Apple Support page in my question, and as mattdm points out, I’m asking about chroma noise, not chromatic aberration. I’ve used the CA adjustment a couple times, and have no issues with it." CreationDate="2011-01-04T06:10:00.017" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="7992" PostId="6190" Text="I will check it out, but it seems to be operating on luma noise, not chroma noise. The first shot you posted is mostly acceptable (though significantly softer than I’d like), but the second retains all the chroma noise of the original — even though the texture is smooth, it retains the same splotchy areas of over-saturated yellows as my original." CreationDate="2011-01-04T06:14:48.347" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="7993" PostId="6332" Text="One issue with the USB route is that Canon hasn't released updated drivers for the 20D that work on Win7 64. Thank you for the thorough answer." CreationDate="2011-01-04T06:33:27.063" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="7994" PostId="6364" Text="Ricibob, you are right: you can always rotate the paper, but I was thinking of lab-printing and I can't believe the operator is there changing the paper orientation every second picture." CreationDate="2011-01-04T07:05:38.880" UserId="2934" />
  <row Id="7995" PostId="6332" Score="1" Text="Hmmm... This thread on the Canon Digital Forum (http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=781794) suggests that with W7 Professional you can use a 'Virtual XP' mode to get around the lack of support. I guess if you're not running W7 Pro you're hosed though. " CreationDate="2011-01-04T07:15:19.050" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="7996" PostId="6361" Text="It's never too late. There will be many lunar eclipses in the future." CreationDate="2011-01-04T07:35:48.877" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="7997" PostId="51" Text="@Blender Canon changed the protocol used over USB after the 20D, and anything since is supported &quot;out of the box&quot; even for remote shooting, etc. across most current operating systems." CreationDate="2011-01-04T09:05:28.343" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="7998" PostId="6354" Text="@Leonidas - Hardware raid controllers also contain software, and they are not infallible. With a OS-level raid you at least have a few options when things go wrong." CreationDate="2011-01-04T09:27:22.123" UserId="722" />
  <row Id="7999" PostId="6253" Text="Hehehe, &quot;Prime goeth before a flash ...&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-04T10:07:53.757" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="8000" PostId="6354" Text="@Leonidas - references? I've run multi TB software RAID arrays without problems for years now. Indeed, I've had more f*** ups with hardware RAID controllers." CreationDate="2011-01-04T10:27:53.597" UserId="1969" />
  <row Id="8001" PostId="6352" Text="How to? Not at all. I had a look at the nice clouds and let the ND-filters rest in their case :D" CreationDate="2011-01-04T11:51:03.960" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8002" PostId="6399" Text="Is this an actual crop or a picture taken of the screen? (I do ask because my laptop-screen has a spot and on discovery it put me into some serious hyperventilation ... until I moved the pictures and the spot did not stay still ...)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T11:58:26.513" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8003" PostId="6354" Text="Reference? As your anecdotal evidence, my anecdotal reference plus the knowledge, that SW-RAID suddenly involves processor, main--memory and bus too instead of only dedicated controller and HD. Simple MTBF-calculation + Murphys law." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:00:54.063" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8004" PostId="6301" Text="@Chris: Thanks for the advice. I do want to keep this answer succinct and unbiased however, so I've only mentioned the automatic incremental syncing and provided a link. I've also included pricing information and a link to Amazon S3 so that the questioner can make up their own mind." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:04:29.650" UserId="1352" />
  <row Id="8005" PostId="6034" Text="No, only the first, the rest is D90. And as RAW from a compact too is neither compressed nor colourspace-compressed I wonder why you believe in a bigger difference for non-compact-cameras." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:04:31.750" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8006" PostId="6380" Text="Thanks a lot everyone for these fine comments/answers.  It's appreciated." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:08:31.060" UserId="2168" />
  <row Id="8007" PostId="6385" Text="You better expressed what I was trying to ask.  Your pictures are simply breathtaking.  Thanks a lot." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:10:48.000" UserId="2168" />
  <row Id="8008" PostId="6400" Score="7" Text="This doesn't really answer your own question, but you could've added this as either a comment on your original question, or edited your original question to include this additional information." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:24:20.890" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8009" PostId="6394" Score="4" Text="You should never look directly at the sun, even with sunglasses." CreationDate="2011-01-04T12:33:06.203" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8010" PostId="6354" Text="@Leonidas, that dedicated controller adds a processor, memory etc. Indeed, you've added complexity and potentially made a failure **more** likely. I think Murphy's on my side on this one ;) Of course, if you've got something you can point me at I'm interested in your experiences, though I'd suggest that this is better taken on the likes of SuperUser/SeverFault than here." CreationDate="2011-01-04T13:35:10.137" UserId="1969" />
  <row Id="8011" PostId="6308" Text="I have a script to do this; see http://reidster.net/software/ if you're interested." CreationDate="2011-01-04T14:15:15.320" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8012" PostId="6304" Text="Long Term - it's the bits that matter, not the media. Copy the data to new media every few years you'll be fine." CreationDate="2011-01-04T14:16:18.470" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8013" PostId="6399" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas: you mean the spot *did* stay still? :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T14:55:33.380" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8014" PostId="6399" Text="It did stay still on the screen, but not on the picture. Still there ... on the screen ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T15:04:37.163" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8015" PostId="6386" Score="2" Text="Seconding DMan. CCFL beats standard white LED in tests. Additional question is, does OP want to edit outside sRGB." CreationDate="2011-01-04T15:07:50.200" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8016" PostId="6373" Text="Thanks Jrista, lots of good info there (I couldnt choose between your and Scotts answer so I flagged Scott simply because he got in first).  I should have mentioned in my post that in fact I do have 50mm f1.8 prime that I picked up off a friend and its the fact that it takes such great photos that Im looking for a faster zoom - because Im so often shooting my kids at play, parties etc I really need the zoom - so I can stay out of the way but still get nice DoF shots. From what I read here I think the 24-70mm is the go and if I need something wider I'll go a wide prime.  Cheers. " CreationDate="2011-01-04T15:53:53.610" UserId="1638" />
  <row Id="8017" PostId="6368" Text="Thanks Scott.  In fact I have a 50mm f1.8 - which takes great images but I really need the zoom because kids move around alot quickly and I need to be flexible.  I'm going to go a 24-70mm but will look into the Sigma as a cheeper option.  Cheers." CreationDate="2011-01-04T15:57:49.880" UserId="1638" />
  <row Id="8018" PostId="6363" Text="From the advice here I've more or less decided to go a f2.8 24-70mm - I'll look into Simga vs Nikkor.  Thanks all." CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:07:48.217" UserId="1638" />
  <row Id="8019" PostId="6348" Text="@Evan Good eyes!  You can see those artifacts at the top and bottom.  (They're not whole bands, though: they extend only about 10-20% of the way into the picture from the top and bottom.)  They correspond to the sprocket holes along the edge of the film.  Over the years--even though this is a *waterproof, metal* camera kept in a case or drawer--some photons evidently did get in.  In effect, each sprocket hole acted like a little window of purple light." CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:17:19.473" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8020" PostId="6394" Score="3" Text="You **absolutely** need a filter and you **absolutely** must not look at the eclipse directly or point your lens directly at the sun without a filter! You will be blinded within a few seconds. Think about it: it's the middle of the day and the eclipse is nearly complete, covering almost 90% of the sun.  Well, that means that instead of taking a fraction of a second for the light to burn out your retina (or sensor), it will take only ten times longer. If the eclipse is at sunrise you might get lucky...might..." CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:20:30.203" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8021" PostId="6396" Score="1" Text="What kinds of &quot;errors&quot; are induced by stopping down?  (Never mind that no camera can, without the aid of a filter, cover the 17 stops needed to expose the sun directly...)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:22:48.907" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8022" PostId="6386" Score="1" Text="Aye, RGB-LED screens definitely produce purer color, as their white is produced by blending actual red, green, and blue LED light together. Standard &quot;white&quot; LED's are actually blue LED's with a yellow phosphor, so the color emitted is not a true white. It should be noted that both LED and RGB-LED screens can suffer from temperature shift as the LED's age, and for array-type backlights, the color shift can vary from LED to LED. A screen like the LaCie has a special control system to compensate for such aging drift, and will produce consistent color until the day it actually dies." CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:49:48.680" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8023" PostId="6385" Score="1" Text="I wish I could take credit for those photos, however they are not mine. They are just some of my favorite landscape photos on DeviantArt.com that I thought well demonstrated the wide-angle concept." CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:50:32.907" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8024" PostId="6373" Text="No problem, better to give the rep to a new-comer than me anyway...I have plenty. ;) The 24-70 will be a very good lens, however you will need to get in pretty close to keep the DOF small with an f/2.8 aperture." CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:52:41.063" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8025" PostId="6368" Text="Fair enough.  Well, you've got a choice of 2 Sigmas.  I have the Macro version, which works just fine although it's a bit clunky.  There's also a more modern HSM version which costs more but comes with a built-in motor and possibly better image quality.  And I have a friend who swears by the Tamron 28-70 (or maybe 75?) that you might want to look at too.  For what it's worth, I'll upgrade to the Nikkor version if I ever have that much money lying around, because it is a better lens, but for now I'm getting the job done.  Happy shopping!" CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:54:24.737" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="8026" PostId="6413" Text="Duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1783/how-to-focus-in-complete-darkness" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:17:38.527" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8027" PostId="6405" Text="I was looking for this one week ago, called every local store in the area and the only answer I got was to send it to Japan and wait 3-4 weeks for results!" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:18:46.233" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8028" PostId="6413" Text="You should be able to find your answers on the duplicate linked by rfusca. I've closed this as a duplicate, so we can keep all the answers to this type of question in a single place." CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:21:33.620" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8029" PostId="6395" Text="Have to agree with Chuqui, the 24-70mm range is a critical nature/landscape photography range. I think the vast bulk of the landscape photographs I like or shoot myself are taken at 24mm (or 90mm for 4x5 photos).  For general nature photography, I would agree with his assessment of focal ranges, however for landscape photography in particular, I would say 24-70, 16-35, then telephoto lengths would be my progression. (For APS-C, those would be 16-35, 10-22 adjusting for crop factor.) " CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:44:09.553" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8030" PostId="3215" Text="This is somewhat related to another question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-do-all-those-cryptic-number-and-letter-codes-in-a-lens-name-mean" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:51:53.747" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8031" PostId="6386" Text="@jrista. can you please describe your setup?" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:58:09.623" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8032" PostId="2441" Score="1" Text="+1 Great link to that astro site!" CreationDate="2011-01-04T19:01:30.517" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8033" PostId="6386" Text="+1, I think by construction RGB-LED is superior to LED/CCFL/WLED. " CreationDate="2011-01-04T19:05:25.943" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="8035" PostId="6386" Text="@kacalapy: I just have a single CinemaDisplay 30&quot; right now. The older LCD screen, not the newer 27&quot; LED screen. Despite being a 98% AdobeRGB gamut screen, the CinemaDisplay 30&quot; does not seem to fully achieve that, and when I calibrate it, it falls somewhere between sRGB and AdobeRGB gamuts. (Calibration tends to lessen gamut somewhat, which is why it is important to have a screen gamut that is *greater* than AdobeRGB...the LaCie 700 series when properly calibrated should settle squarely at the AdobeRGB gamut or a little broader.)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:18:11.103" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8036" PostId="6393" Score="1" Text="The problem was my frasing. I eventually figured out the &quot;lenticular printing&quot; myself, but I didn't figure out the &quot;no minimum&quot;. If you're not a native speaker, you don't get to the &quot;right&quot; expression that easily :)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T21:04:45.093" UserId="2379" />
  <row Id="8037" PostId="3215" Text="Related but different enough, I think — they're cryptic words instead of cryptic letter codes. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T21:35:48.997" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8038" PostId="6419" Text="The lovely chaps at security will swab for explosives if your jeans have set the metal detector off, they'll also look very scared trying to get the camera back in its bag ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-04T21:49:26.840" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8039" PostId="6389" Text="I tried the picasa dupe finder, but it seems to be matching similar images, not identical files." CreationDate="2011-01-04T22:55:54.917" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="8040" PostId="6075" Text="@Colin K: If you use &quot;infinity&quot; as distance instead of the actual distance, you are using a different formula, so of course the result is different. If you use the actual distance, the scale doesn't matter. Even if the scene is a light year away, the geometry is still the same." CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:09:42.007" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="8041" PostId="6433" Text="This is a very confusing matter..." CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:35:54.397" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8042" PostId="6433" Text="Just to clarify, are you talking about sRGB vs Adobe RGB in the on-camera settings? Or are you talking about colour spaces offered in on-screen proofing (including CMYK, Apple RGB, specific printer spaces, etc)?" CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:49:47.693" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="8043" PostId="6433" Text="Let's say the first." CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:53:22.457" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8044" PostId="1793" Score="2" Text="Seconding 3: group shots should NEVER be done concurrently. People look at different cameras and this is worse than blinking." CreationDate="2011-01-05T00:11:13.760" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8045" PostId="6347" Text="@Alan With my current rate (99) and the current score (-4), had +2 and -6 votes... Interesting :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T01:06:53.587" UserId="2834" />
  <row Id="8046" PostId="6435" Score="1" Text="@jrista - thanks for expressing what I was trying to describe in a much more comprehensible way... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T01:13:44.417" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8047" PostId="6418" Text="Any way of doing it in photoshop?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T01:33:53.173" UserId="2952" />
  <row Id="8049" PostId="5974" Score="1" Text="I disagree that this is a duplicate. The differences between lightroom and picasa is not the same thing as how to get a speedy workflow. Related? yes. Duplicate? no." CreationDate="2011-01-05T02:21:00.993" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8050" PostId="6359" Score="2" Text="Edmunds Scientific sells a T-mount pinhole setup (very precise pinholes of various sizes on exchangeable plates, minimum diffraction for the species, and controllable/predictable &quot;focal lengths&quot; and therefore controllable/predictable relative apertures). A little late for this past event, but it's a reasonable kit for next time and a bit of effects adventuring in the meantime." CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:00:02.790" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8051" PostId="6435" Score="1" Text="+1 - You're way too much of a colour geek! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:01:16.033" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8052" PostId="6428" Score="1" Text="+1 - Good article and, as an added bonus, yet another reason that the UV filter is more of a pain than it's worth!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:04:02.397" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8053" PostId="6419" Text="Yes, the equipment won't receive a different radiation dose whether it's in or out of the bag, unless you manage to position it behind an opaque object or wrap it in tinfoil." CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:04:26.387" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8054" PostId="6435" Text="Oooh, look at all the *pretty* colors! @_@" CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:26:05.933" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8055" PostId="6435" Text="@Ysap: Thanks. As John said, I'm a bit of a color geek, so I tend to drool over this subject. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:28:18.343" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8056" PostId="6415" Text="@Reid - Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:39:36.367" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8057" PostId="6419" Text="@Reid-- that's not technically true, depending on the way that the radiation machine is configured.  If there are a lot of low-energy photons emitted from the machine, they would get absorbed by the bag or container, rather than the outer surface of the camera.  Higher energy photons would just pass right through.  Some medium energy photons are absorbed by the bag; that's why the bag is detectable by the machine." CreationDate="2011-01-05T05:09:48.403" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8058" PostId="6440" Score="1" Text="That just says they were tested for that many actuations, not that it is a maximum. See these for more information: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5538/does-using-a-camera-with-very-high-shutter-actuations-have-any-side-effects and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3813/how-many-actuations-are-too-many-actuations" CreationDate="2011-01-05T06:59:49.920" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="8059" PostId="541" Text="There already is at least one card-copying device: http://www.engadget.com/2005/09/14/panasonics-pocket-sd-card-copier/ I don't know if that one's still available or if there is a more recent product because that one's from 2005." CreationDate="2011-01-05T07:15:15.733" UserId="1519" />
  <row Id="8060" PostId="6442" Score="6" Text="I regularly shoot more than 1000 frames at a wedding, I know other photographers who shoot double this. It depends what line of work you do, I guess. Obviously I don't shoot a wedding every day! " CreationDate="2011-01-05T07:35:28.233" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8061" PostId="6442" Score="3" Text="Oh, the luxuries of the digital age, I guess. I'd go through twenty-five or thirty rolls -- of VPS 120. And yes, my suit did look funny with extra backs in the jacket pockets, but that's what us dinosaurs were like in the Cretaceous." CreationDate="2011-01-05T07:43:38.133" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8062" PostId="6304" Text="We are probably heading off topic now, but writing data every x months/years will not solve a bitrot issue. Raid 6 can cope with loss of sectors to write too, but not about corrupt bits in a byte I do believe it will happily replicate that to any sector that can be successfully written to/striped too" CreationDate="2011-01-05T09:31:18.607" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="8063" PostId="6446" Score="1" Text="I'm not sure the exposure time (sports vs landscape in your example) have anything to do with the speed of __the individual blade__. It will be 1/300th for any shutter value." CreationDate="2011-01-05T11:16:25.747" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8064" PostId="5963" Text="Not much more to flush out really.  lindes... Correct, I'm looking to tag objects, like people, in the photograph, identifying the coordinates of the object, but also support notes/descriptions to a specific region of the image, similar to flickr's implementation.  I am not looking for an external, sidecar implementation, rather an embedded standard that would hopefully be embraced by application developers.  Could I use facial tagging to do this?  Perhaps, but the definition is facial, so when I submit my image to a specific application it would think it is a person--which I do not want." CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:18:25.577" UserId="196" />
  <row Id="8065" PostId="6449" Score="1" Text="+1 for the &quot;little folk around&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:31:01.940" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8066" PostId="6452" Text="Hello! Thanks for reply. I'm skewing an image (about 20%). It looks like photoshop is applying blur AFTER the transformation (automaticaly). See my update in the question" CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:43:28.450" UserId="2981" />
  <row Id="8067" PostId="6453" Score="2" Text="For the last question: I'd ask them not to adjust pictures and say it is a deal-breaker if they do." CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:56:04.093" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8068" PostId="6452" Text="I'm using CS3. Can you try to do tha same thign in your photoshop? Set the maximum zoom to notice the effect" CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:57:24.910" UserId="2981" />
  <row Id="8069" PostId="6442" Text="Once shot 20 24x36-films at a wedding. Since then I appreciate the &quot;delete&quot;-button on digital cameras even more ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:58:27.477" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8070" PostId="6440" Score="1" Text="One interpretation is today often left out: this number could mean, that the shutter works correctly for this many actuations and could be incorrect (== slower) later. The shutter does not nessarily have to fail totally. Slowing down is a side-effect that old SLR did have too, when the mechanics was a bit worn out. I once even oiled my Canon A1 with a syringe and healed it from shutter-cough." CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:01:59.157" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8071" PostId="6452" Score="1" Text="@Dan - I don't use PS at all. I use GIMP." CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:08:13.733" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8072" PostId="6451" Text="can you please post the pre- and post transform images?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:08:53.187" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8073" PostId="6451" Text="the images are very small ). can you see them in the end of the post?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:19:56.170" UserId="2981" />
  <row Id="8074" PostId="6453" Score="2" Text="Was this a large multiple using Kiosks (like a supermarket or high street chemists), or was this a specialist, such as an independent photography shop?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:39:41.587" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8075" PostId="6452" Text="using gimp has solved the problem" CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:56:42.660" UserId="2981" />
  <row Id="8076" PostId="6451" Text="My answer was edited after seeing the images." CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:56:44.657" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8077" PostId="6452" Text="@Dan - it must be a matter of different default settings between PS and GIMP. I'm sure that you could get the same result with PS." CreationDate="2011-01-05T13:59:11.503" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8078" PostId="6449" Score="3" Text="+1 for the overall tone :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T14:33:13.533" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8079" PostId="6415" Score="1" Text="Actually the issue, historically, was with intensity. For several years now you can put your films into modern X-Ray-scanners at the airport with about the same effect as on memory cards: insignificant (although existing)." CreationDate="2011-01-05T14:35:35.227" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8080" PostId="6449" Score="1" Text="I have to admit I had fun with this one :o)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T14:37:39.170" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8081" PostId="6415" Text="@John - no problem! @Leonidas - AFAIK, there's a lot of debate about where the threshold lies: what speed film can be scanned what number of times. I'm not aware of anyone who's argued that there's a speed which can be scanned an unlimited number of times." CreationDate="2011-01-05T14:38:52.150" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8082" PostId="6449" Score="2" Text="Note: you'll get less fluctuation in brightness with incandescent sources than flourescents or, especially, things like sodium vapor lights (not that most folks would have the latter at home... But in case you're working in some sort of space that does). You could also reduce such effects with a longer shutter speed (say, a couple cycles of the A/C), but that might not work well for this shot - I imagine you'll want the bubbles still. Also, a lamp shade can at times make a nice soft box. And, great answer, Stan!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:19:37.793" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8083" PostId="6442" Text="My highest shot-count day ever was a Pride parade. I probably way over-shot... I only really ever used a half dozen or so shots, but my shutter fired something like 2700 times that day. With fast-changing expressions and such, and lots of people, that's when I tend to shoot lots of frames. " CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:29:30.333" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8084" PostId="6337" Text="Very good comparison. Because not widely known check additional hard facts comparing the 1,4 to the 1,8 (and the Sigma) at DxOMark (http://bit.ly/dNra4r) - they have REALLY **geeky** comparisons" CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:29:34.347" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="8085" PostId="6455" Text="Does using the color profile also provide true results for brightness etc or just color?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:31:33.937" UserId="823" />
  <row Id="8086" PostId="6453" Text="High street chemist, Rowland." CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:32:22.610" UserId="823" />
  <row Id="8087" PostId="6436" Score="1" Text="Beware of flash recycling times, though, if you're going for burst mode and using flash. " CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:39:37.487" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8088" PostId="6451" Text="Hi Dan, and welcome to the forums. I hate to do this on your first question, however general photoshop and image editing questions that are not specifically related to photography are off topic here. You could try going to DocType.com, or see if there is a graphic design site at Area51. As this refers to icon editing, it falls into the off topic category here, so I'm going to close this." CreationDate="2011-01-05T15:55:01.950" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8089" PostId="6456" Score="1" Text="+1's not enough, but it's all the power I wield." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:01:57.583" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8090" PostId="6419" Text="But if we're talking about the memory card and electronics, it seems immaterial whether radiation is absorbed by the camera's shell or the luggage." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:03:46.277" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8091" PostId="6449" Text="Thanks Stan, awesome answer! Yeah it's really the first challange I've set myself that involves some planning. I've had a look around and think I'll make a DIY light tent. As far as camera setting go any tips there? Oh and there will be no wasted Guinness in my house ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:17:41.337" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="8092" PostId="6408" Text="i operate two EOS 7Ds, with 580EX II and 430EX II flashes. i don't have &quot;control&quot; of the environments to place additional lighting equipment nor will i be able to afford it anyway." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:18:30.153" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="8093" PostId="6409" Text="that's gonna be hard when i moving all around for the event; i won't have time to and cannot afford to position so many standing lights across the entire environments. :-/" CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:20:20.900" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="8094" PostId="6406" Text="i sling two cameras with a BlackRapid DR-1 double strap; to quickly move and operate wide-angle and narrow-angle views. i won't be able to make use of tripod." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:22:42.037" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="8095" PostId="1171" Text="There are actually some options in the digital space for stuff like this -- e.g. the Horseman VCC Pro -  http://www.komamura.co.jp/e/VCCpro/index.html -- that said, the size of your imaging surface really does make a real difference (or several e.g. longer actual focal length for same angle of view, which affects DOF)... and I have to say, having recently started shooting a 4x5&quot; view camera, the experience of putting a loupe to the ground glass is like nothing else I've experienced; it's a truly beautiful thing. Still, theoretically possible to have a 4x5&quot; digital back for these guys some day." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:43:40.407" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8096" PostId="6442" Text="Consider that, in burst mode, you can shoot 3 to 11 shots *per second*. Those add up fast." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:47:20.127" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8097" PostId="6449" Score="2" Text="As long as it's well framed and the glass is clearly the star of the show (that is, it looks to be in perfect proportion, the logo and the famous bubbles are in sharp focus, and the background is either to dark or too blurred to matter) you'll be okay. Without knowing what your lighting conditions are, I can't give you much more help in terms of shutter/aperture. You'll want to be somewhere around the 70-100mm range most likely, otherwise the glass may lose a bit of its roundness, but don't be afraid to try something a bit longer. Wider probably won't flatter the glass, but there are no rules." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:48:59.757" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8098" PostId="6408" Score="1" Text="If you can't add light and I'm assuming you've raised your ISO as high as you're willing to go, I'm afraid you may be out of options for freezing motion in poorly lit areas." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:50:32.650" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8099" PostId="6442" Text="One: I grew up with silver halide. Two: I'm from the north of Canada. Three: motor drives and film in dry winter air cause static streaks on film. Again, I learned the trade in a different era, and the only place I'd use burst mode is in sports photography. I may shoot digital these days, but I still *think* in film. So shoot me." CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:55:47.640" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8100" PostId="6455" Score="1" Text="@SiKeep Using a colour profile should allow you to &quot;soft proof&quot; which (with a properlly calibrated display) *should* give a reasonable representation of what will come out in terms of both colour reproduction and brightnesses." CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:13:57.560" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8101" PostId="6443" Text="Just as evidence to this, I've seen Canon 5D (original) cameras with well over 1 million actuations before they needed repair." CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:50:25.153" UserId="1743" />
  <row Id="8102" PostId="6443" Text="Ditto with my old knockaround Canon 20D. I suspect that camera manufacturers tend to 'fudge' these numbers low in order to 'under-promise and over-deliver,' however it's not like we're ever going to get one of them to admit that. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:55:12.730" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8103" PostId="6376" Score="2" Text="Course, you could also bootcamp that iMac.  I bootcamped my MBP's (v 1.1 and 6.2), and they are the best Windows laptops I've found." CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:07:34.067" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8104" PostId="6447" Text="If you get a good shot of this, please post it!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:26:51.307" UserId="681" />
  <row Id="8105" PostId="6459" Text="I am interested to know the percent breakdown you spend in mac mode vs windows mode?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:28:39.970" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8106" PostId="6462" Text="software products (like windows) also recommend minimum specs, but as we all know they are not nearly enough for things to run smoothly." CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:48:25.763" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8107" PostId="6462" Score="5" Text="Right: that's why it's a good idea to try it out.  But you now know your card nominally exceeds minimum specs, so there doesn't seem to be any reason not to take the next step.  If you're looking for details of people's experiences with SD cards, that's already available: look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4902/1356 ." CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:50:41.000" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8108" PostId="6418" Text="You can make the panorama in Photoshop, but not the 3d rotation part; that needs software to display as there isn't any standard format like JPG for 3D panoramas.  Here's how to use Photoshop to make a 2D panorama: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/creating-a-panorama-with-photoshop-and-photomerge" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:56:43.083" UserId="2968" />
  <row Id="8109" PostId="6449" Text="+1 for Awesome!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:56:45.697" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8110" PostId="6461" Score="5" Text="As an aside, it doesn't take any extra time to write titles that are grammatically correct and use correct spelling. &quot;whast more SDHC card write intensive hd movies or burst mode in RAW?&quot; is neither grammatically correct, or spelled correctly. Please fix your title." CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:28:01.563" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8111" PostId="6461" Score="1" Text="Seriously! I do appreciate that the actual question is less sloppy, though. @kacalpy, if you go back and clean up some of your earlier questions, I'll vote 'em up." CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:40:58.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8112" PostId="6461" Score="1" Text="Not attempting to be a D-Bag with my comment (it's just a convenient bonus! ;-) ). Well thought out, correctly spelled, grammatically correct titles help the community by making questions easier to search for and answers easier to find." CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:44:21.197" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8113" PostId="6447" Text="Happy to help. Let me know when you need me to be over to help you drink the 'test shots.' :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:57:00.877" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8114" PostId="6446" Text="@ysap true but I imagine (shooting with both curtains moving at the same time and at 11 fps *will* have an impact on the forces acting on the components and thus the wear rate." CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:57:15.013" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8115" PostId="6428" Text="I have the DMC-FX35, great little camera but don't think it will be up to the job. Maybe you could rent kit?" CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:58:49.943" UserId="560" />
  <row Id="8117" PostId="6463" Score="1" Text="Recording video is certainly more intensive on the image processor but I'm not sure the camera has to write the data back to the card constantly, given it has a buffer large enough for about 10 RAW files (~200MB) it seems reasonable that there is some sort of buffer for video. When the Raw buffer runs out you usually only get a shot every couple of seconds so I don't think this behaviour still counts as &quot;burst mode&quot;. Video recordings can last for 20 minutes, so I'd say this is less intensive for the card." CreationDate="2011-01-05T21:42:02.870" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8118" PostId="6223" Score="1" Text="I don't know anything for a fact, I'm afraid, just basing my assumptions on the fact the camera is a battery powered device, and quite unlike a TV / PC / amplifier which are designed to be constantly performing a task, and take time to boot up (or warm up/charge caps in the case of amps). All the sensor has to do to prepare to shoot is drain the photosites of any charge built up through heat since the last shot. I highly doubt this charge is enough to attract dust from any distance, especially from outside of the camera body!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T21:47:37.483" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8119" PostId="6470" Text="Just Yahoo answers! ;) Thanks for trying!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:10:13.750" UserId="2992" />
  <row Id="8120" PostId="6461" Score="1" Text="I actually removed my downvote on this question once the title was cleaned up.  (Although I still think the answer is &quot;just try it&quot;)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:22:48.763" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8121" PostId="6471" Score="18" Text="While it does sound like an odd question, I think it is entirely valid. I think it is commendable to find ways to create more flattering pictures of overweight people. Cheers. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:28:03.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8122" PostId="6470" Text="Yahoo answers probably propagates to about a dozen other 'answer my question' sites, then. How funny. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:28:29.673" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8123" PostId="6075" Text="@guffa: Yes, I understand that. They actually make you learn quite a bit of mathematics before they give you a degree in physics or a masters in optical engineering :)  For an object at infinity, optics people don't think about the object height, only its angle to the optical axis." CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:35:49.137" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="8124" PostId="6471" Score="1" Text="I agree, nothing odd about the question." CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:41:35.730" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8125" PostId="6473" Score="5" Text="+1 - Great suggestions!" CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:54:26.117" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8126" PostId="6475" Score="1" Text="+1 - Agree, agree. Careful with Item 1, though... A little goes a long way and shifting the camera too far off-plane can have other unwanted distortions as a consequence." CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:56:47.763" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8127" PostId="6470" Text="@Jay Lance Photography yes, or more accurately: dozen other sites propagate *from* Yahoo answers... Sites with ads without real content." CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:59:14.147" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8128" PostId="6463" Text="Fair enough. I think the 'Go test it you lazy bum... Don't con other people into doing your homework for you!' (all intended in good fun, of course...) part of my answer was the real point I wanted to make. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T23:08:28.477" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8129" PostId="6451" Text="@Dan &amp; @jrista http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/1924/graphic-design public beta in 6 days ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-05T23:34:01.777" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8130" PostId="6478" Score="3" Text="I'm puzzled by the comparison.  At most distances, the DoF *for any given image size* and *any given f-stop* will be the same no matter what focal length you use.  (*E.g.*, the DoF is 4 inches at f/2.8 for a subject shot at 5 feet with a 50 mm lens, 10 feet with a 100, or 20 feet with a 200 and in all cases the subject is the same size on the image.)  It seems you are mainly opting to get further from your subjects, because of course you could always shoot the 50 mm at f/2.8 to increase the DoF." CreationDate="2011-01-05T23:47:10.290" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8131" PostId="6478" Text="Well, the reason is probably b/c (for me) the 70-200 is much more versatile than the 50 that I just use it at f/2.8 instead of stopping down the 50 to f/2.8." CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:17:27.603" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8132" PostId="6476" Text="Since depth of field varies with camera format for the same framing, might it be better to phrase this as &quot;What depth of field do you prefer to use to photograph people?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:23:02.130" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8133" PostId="6473" Score="5" Text="Don't use a 4.5mm fisheye lens." CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:28:45.043" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="8134" PostId="6480" Score="1" Text="Not an answer, but wanted to share a couple of good articles on Hugin from lwn.net: http://lwn.net/Articles/351053/ (a bit dated), and http://lwn.net/Articles/412977/ (newer)." CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:32:44.323" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8135" PostId="6471" Score="5" Text="It's not really odd at all. People come in all shapes and sizes, and as a portrait photographer, if you can highlight a persons features while diminishing their &quot;flaws&quot; you will be better rewarded. At least he didn't call us &quot;fatties.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:34:29.220" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="8136" PostId="6475" Score="2" Text="Yeah, the portrait ends up looking like a &quot;MySpace angle&quot; if you go too high. :p I was going to mention using a briefer or cincher if it's mostly a gut problem; although they've fallen a bit out of fashion, I still know quite a few women who use one." CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:44:40.440" UserId="2784" />
  <row Id="8137" PostId="6110" Text="We made a mistake with the K-5, agreed it should be listed as professional. Hmm, I thought the 40D/50D/60D were in Canon's Pro lineup, am I wrong?  We need a good definition of pro gear :)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T00:44:52.953" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="8138" PostId="6482" Text="What camera do you use that shoots at f/3.0?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T02:20:51.063" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="8139" PostId="6213" Text="@mattdm, it depends on the body and the lens because the lens has to tell the body what it's set to. I've heard that professional bodies (e.g. D1) and lenses have a mode option that lets you do that, but most prosumer bodies do not." CreationDate="2011-01-06T02:38:28.333" UserId="3004" />
  <row Id="8140" PostId="6484" Score="1" Text="Do you seriously think that a piece of attachable glass in front of your lens might be comparable to a lens on its own?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T02:53:08.413" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8141" PostId="6484" Score="3" Text="@Leonidas - It's a fair question, we were all beginners once and the lure of a cheaper option and misinformed sales people can often lead people to make those decisions. Starting to ask the question is how you avoid the same mistake twice. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:22:32.693" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8142" PostId="6484" Text="Neither &quot;how much better will the quality be&quot; or &quot;worth the (steepish) price&quot; are answerable by anyone other than you. It is safe to say that the quality of a dedicated lens will be vastly superior to a cheap attachment lens, and depending on what you plan to do with it, it will be worth the price." CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:22:38.073" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8143" PostId="6481" Text="Are you sure? Longer lenses usually have thinner DoF, wider angles have deeper. I agree with your immediate statement about the background, the role it plays is important, but after that it doesn't appear to be accurate. I should note that I mean apparent depth of field in regards to the focal length." CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:25:55.000" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8144" PostId="6481" Text="Hi @Rob. I wondered about your f/22 recommendation, and posted a question about it here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6489/whats-the-benefit-of-a-tiny-aperture" CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:29:48.867" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8145" PostId="6489" Score="2" Text="Concerning &quot;even for a bright day&quot;: ever took a photograph in snowy mountains? On a bright day in march you either have a ND-filter ready or be prepared for some higher F-stops, even with 1/2000s + ISO 50. Especially if you are into trying HDR." CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:34:10.267" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8146" PostId="6489" Score="9" Text="Don't forget about the disadvantage too. On most modern DSLRs, F/22 is beyond the diffraction limit which means it makes your whole image softer even though you theoretically have more depth-of-field, it won't be visible." CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:46:34.670" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8147" PostId="6475" Text="Oh yeah, don't go nuts with the angle, but shooting from a slightly higher angle will be more flattering I think." CreationDate="2011-01-06T03:51:28.437" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8148" PostId="6483" Score="1" Text="You did that 360 office pano?  Wow, nice." CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:08:39.063" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8149" PostId="6483" Score="1" Text="Thanks! It's made up of 6 (well technically 18- it's an HDR) shots with a Canon 15mm fisheye rotated around a Nodal Ninja pano tripod head. It's actually a house here in Spokane, WA where I live that was rented for the shoot... Almost every piece of furniture and art in the shot was brought in especially for the shoot." CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:15:28.517" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8150" PostId="6473" Score="7" Text="Could you briefly explain the terms &quot;short&quot; and &quot;broad&quot; lighting?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:19:46.987" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8151" PostId="2226" Text="The image appears to be broken." CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:40:23.607" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8152" PostId="6482" Text="Not f/3.0 exactly, but only the ones around there... Meaning f/2.8 and f/3.2... I don't have the f stops all memorized yet, I'm still fairly new to this..." CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:45:16.380" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8153" PostId="6415" Text="There is a threshold, of course, as there is a threshold for flash-memory to be affected noticeable by (the ionizing) X-rays. Older generations of X-Ray-machines used more intensity, thus darkening your films fast. It is the same with the CCDs of X-Ray-machines as with camera-CCDs: they got better/more sensitive, so intensity of the &quot;lighting source&quot; could be and was lowered. Of course flash-memory still benefits from being digital instead of analogue ..." CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:55:23.473" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8154" PostId="670" Text="@Karel - I must admit: I'm a little curious as to why you asked this question :-). Did you get any shots from a plane or helictoper?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:09:14.787" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8156" PostId="6489" Text="I was coming here to say the same thing as Atai. I've never heard of anyone suggesting f/22; at least on the lenses I own (on my cropped sensor XTI) the diffraction is terrible at this point. I rarely go beyond f/11. " CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:26:16.157" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="8157" PostId="6495" Score="2" Text="LOL, you're asking a question based on the question that somebody asked you in another question about the terms you used.  Its just funny. +1 for useful information getting out there." CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:34:50.437" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8158" PostId="6483" Text="+1 for PTgui. You can have it do almost everything for you or take as much control as you want. " CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:40:20.007" UserId="847" />
  <row Id="8159" PostId="6475" Text="@John Cavan : It did help (a slightly higher angle)!" CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:41:26.933" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8160" PostId="6495" Score="2" Text="Yeah, his question in a comment prompted me to create the question, 'cause it's a great one and I didn't see anything else addressing it on the site. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:44:43.030" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8161" PostId="6473" Score="2" Text="I went ahead and created it as a separate question, because it's a great one. See the question (and my answer... with pictures!) here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6495/in-portrait-photography-what-is-broad-lighting-what-is-short-lighting" CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:46:11.343" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8162" PostId="6471" Text="Here's another site that echoes many of Jay's tips: http://www.sublime-light.com/index.php/2007/07/30/9-ways-to-make-your-portrait-subjects-look-thinner/" CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:52:59.313" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8163" PostId="6473" Text="Thanks Jay. In hindsight, I suppose I should have just googled, but a little duplication of information never hurt the Internet." CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:54:31.480" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8164" PostId="6471" Score="6" Text="Good start there on that self portrait! One common thing I see with many of my students is that they don't have the light rotated around their subjects enough and so they end up throwing a little light on the ear nearest to the camera... If you shift your light to your right a bit more you'll prevent that..." CreationDate="2011-01-06T05:59:23.850" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8165" PostId="6447" Text="Similar subject: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/3982/378" CreationDate="2011-01-06T06:02:20.260" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8166" PostId="6471" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - Thanks - I really like doing portrait work I think.  I'll have to give the rotating the light a try tomorrow.  Its off to bed tonight!" CreationDate="2011-01-06T06:10:11.283" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8167" PostId="6495" Score="2" Text="this has &quot;self-learner&quot; written all over it :-). http://photo.stackexchange.com/badges/14/self-learner" CreationDate="2011-01-06T06:16:01.890" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8168" PostId="6473" Score="4" Text="If the goal is to be the 'first, best, one-stop source of answers on anything and everything related to photography on the internet' than we should have the question on our site even if it's out there elsewhere anyway. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T06:17:16.930" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8169" PostId="6495" Text="I think it's a pretty solid answer, but I'm going to give it a day or two before I select one. Entirely possible that there's a better answer out there. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T06:21:00.407" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8170" PostId="6489" Text="@rm999 - Bryan Peterson is one advocate of tiny apertures." CreationDate="2011-01-06T07:21:56.997" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8171" PostId="670" Text="Sadly, I missed my flying chance last summer. But I'll be looking into this again in the next season." CreationDate="2011-01-06T08:07:29.263" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="8172" PostId="6467" Text="Ok, superb. Thank you alexandrul." CreationDate="2011-01-06T08:16:59.390" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="8173" PostId="6499" Text="I've seen this print hung on a few walls. Its such a great photo. Very sad that it seems to have burned...what a loss." CreationDate="2011-01-06T08:24:52.397" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8174" PostId="346" Text="Well, DropBox has other uses as well - it's great for collaboration with other people, always having access to your important files, syncing documents between computers *etc*. I use it to share work with other photographers who also has dropbox; I use facebook for social stuff and flickr for most of my other creations." CreationDate="2011-01-06T09:53:05.940" UserId="2017" />
  <row Id="8175" PostId="6471" Score="1" Text="What about smiling or laughing ? " CreationDate="2011-01-06T11:45:47.550" UserId="3023" />
  <row Id="8176" PostId="6498" Score="2" Text="This is a pretty unorthodox claim. Can you back it up? Thanks" CreationDate="2011-01-06T12:09:00.403" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="8177" PostId="6485" Score="2" Text="I have to agree. Hugin is great - I've used it successfully and was very happy with the output - but it's not very intuitive. I only figured out how to use it by following a tutorial; all my initial attempts resulted in total rubbish." CreationDate="2011-01-06T12:11:40.497" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="8178" PostId="6508" Score="1" Text="Do you mean standard (not wide angle) or prime (not zoom)?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T13:10:06.490" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8179" PostId="6506" Score="1" Text="I do the same, but I write the gel type on a white sticker next to the velcro at each end.  That way I can find the one I need without having to take them out the envelope.  It's also useful if I'm looking for an effect gel in a dark environment." CreationDate="2011-01-06T13:33:04.933" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="8180" PostId="6501" Score="3" Text="I keep mine crumpled up at the bottom of my camera bag, I somehow doubt that's the answer you're looking for! " CreationDate="2011-01-06T13:40:23.407" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8182" PostId="6490" Text="Yes, that is a nice explanation from Cambridge in Colour and the calculator helps to make it clear." CreationDate="2011-01-06T14:41:05.910" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="8183" PostId="6496" Score="13" Text="+1 for including examples, especially on a neutral dummy. More answers should be like this." CreationDate="2011-01-06T15:13:09.673" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8184" PostId="3543" Text="There's also the Think Tank Airport Ultralight, which is very similar but with a shallower front pocket and no tripod straps.  It looks much smaller and stealthier (I think), and it's slightly cheaper.  I like it." CreationDate="2011-01-06T15:17:50.687" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="8185" PostId="6518" Score="2" Text="a lot of men have that issue... (sorry couldn't resist)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T15:34:14.353" UserId="3036" />
  <row Id="8186" PostId="6522" Text="Welcome to the form. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4203/digital-photography-tutorials for your answer." CreationDate="2011-01-06T15:58:30.820" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8187" PostId="6419" Text="@Reid, absolutely.  But the idea of 'radiation dose' actually has real, quantifiable numbers behind it, so much so that I had to learn about dosimetry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dosimetry) when studying x-ray radiation and imaging.  Now, whether the differences in dose is significant is another issue, and one that can be determined by putting a meter in the bag and outside the bag, etc.  When not inside luggage, there is a higher chance that more photons will hit the electronics, but for the most part, they won't do anything if they do." CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:10:11.677" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8188" PostId="6522" Text="Like @Pearsonartphoto mentioned, this is a duplicate. Please don't be offended by this being closed, It is certainly a great question, but, it's better in the long run for all the information to be in one place :).  Please take a look there, and upvote the answers that help you!" CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:12:35.593" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8189" PostId="3613" Text="+1 for showing me Kata. It looks sweet! I hope I can find it at a retailer so I can touch and play with it a bit because i don't like buying things based on images alone." CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:17:48.303" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8190" PostId="6516" Score="1" Text="See my answer to another camera bag question here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6254/what-are-the-cons-of-a-backpack-style-camera-bag/6257#6257" CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:19:38.240" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8192" PostId="6519" Score="1" Text="In my experience, they're great for critical focus at or near the centre of the screen, but they actually exacerbate the problem of edge/corner vignetting. Worth every penny, but it's flip up for composition and flip down for focus." CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:34:21.963" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8193" PostId="6519" Text="@Stan That's what the reviews say, too.. If there would be such a thing that did not only magnify but also enlarge the image area accordingly, I would buy it immediately." CreationDate="2011-01-06T16:38:54.670" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8194" PostId="6521" Score="2" Text="The sensor size does matter, as it decides roughly how much should be seen in the viewfinder. With a larger sensor it's easier to make a larger and brighter viewfinder." CreationDate="2011-01-06T17:00:49.927" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="8195" PostId="5664" Text="condensating-&gt;condensing" CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:02:50.370" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="8197" PostId="6518" Text="Are you sure the problem is your viewfinder is too *small*? It sounds like if you can't see the whole image then it's too big!" CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:36:41.410" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8198" PostId="6489" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas I've looked back through all my mountain shots (French Alps ~2000m in April) and in bright midday sun I was consistently shooting ISO200 1/800 at f/8, so there's a little way to go before an ND is required, especially if you have ISO50 at your disposal." CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:40:01.080" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8199" PostId="6530" Score="5" Text="In short dcraw is expecting a Raw file from one of it's known formats, not just an array of samples, so what you're trying wont work without some hacking. As this question overlaps largely with your other one, I'm voting to close this and concentrate discussion here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6534/converting-a-proprietary-raw-image-format-to-adobe-dng" CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:43:19.877" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8200" PostId="6535" Text="+1 - I wouldn't have thought to use pano for that!" CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:45:35.917" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8201" PostId="6516" Text="I must admit that as the possibility of kids gets closer I am thinking about combination of child carrier thingy and a camera bag." CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:54:59.920" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8202" PostId="6481" Text="@John...I'm talking about apparent DoF. I think long lenses, with one or two people, &quot;generally&quot; make for better portraits. " CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:55:00.060" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="8204" PostId="3557" Score="1" Text="Second that. The only problem I have with it that it does not fit into carry-in requirement of some european airlines." CreationDate="2011-01-06T18:58:52.910" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8205" PostId="6536" Score="2" Text="I have fonud that even keeping it in my usual Lowepro camera bag is enough to prevent sudden change of temperature that causes the condensation. All I have to do is wait a while before I open the bag and take my camera out." CreationDate="2011-01-06T19:02:01.270" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8206" PostId="6534" Text="crossposting? http://stackoverflow.com/questions/4618099/converting-a-proprietary-raw-image-format-to-adobe-dng" CreationDate="2011-01-06T19:20:59.490" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="8207" PostId="6496" Score="9" Text="Nice examples, but would it be possible to update them so the bust is facing the same direction in both? I think that might better illustrate the lighting effect. In otherwards, move the main light for the effect, instead of reposing the bust?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T19:48:41.510" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="8208" PostId="6502" Text="$20 for a 5-pack of carabiners? Those better be pretty awesome carabiners." CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:00:02.943" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8209" PostId="164" Text="I don't care if this *isnt* a discussion board.  This, so far, is the best post I've seen here yet." CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:20:09.113" UserId="3052" />
  <row Id="8210" PostId="6535" Score="3" Text="+1 - I might also suggest a book like &quot;Light: Science and Magic&quot; which has some very good information on lighting such things as art work." CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:24:38.433" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8211" PostId="6502" Text="I was going with the 'Picture is Worth 1000 Words' adage. Think of it as an 'visual example' of the sort of key ring I was talking about, not an explicit endorsement of that particular product. :-) YMMV, but I'm sure you can find something similar in your local home improvement store..." CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:26:44.633" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8212" PostId="6541" Score="1" Text="The Adobe DNG SDK is clearly the best way to go!" CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:40:14.050" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8213" PostId="6518" Score="1" Text="Are you wearing glasses?" CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:54:01.890" UserId="1843" />
  <row Id="8214" PostId="6254" Text="Just bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001L5U16Q  &#xA;So far, I love it.  It allows easy access to the DSLR through the side, without taking it completely off (mitigating, somewhat, the main con in a backpack). Holds my D80 with 2 lenses, a TM700 camcorder, extra batteries etc, all in the lower compartment.  Only con: it doesn't actually fit my work laptop - technically it's 17 inch, but it's huge.  Fits my home laptop just fine." CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:56:57.613" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="8215" PostId="6254" Text="I am in love with kata bags I found on the web. They also offer the same ability to remove the camera without removing the backpack: http://www.amazon.com/Kata-KT-D-3N1-22-Backpack-Laptop/dp/B002UHKR68  (Also, their bumblebee in white looks outstanding)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T21:33:19.363" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8216" PostId="6541" Score="1" Text="Yeah, I've read the spec a few times because there's a lot of misinformation around the format, but I haven't poked at the SDK to be certain about it. I like the idea of it too, fortunately my camera is one of the ones that does it natively so reading it for interest sake is all that I needed to do. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-06T21:55:27.183" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8217" PostId="6520" Score="1" Text="I have this bag, and it's really not a good idea to use it as a diaper bag.  I think it's very necessary to have a separate sippy cup holder, distinct from your equipment.  The space in the top of this bag doesn't have dividers for drinks." CreationDate="2011-01-06T22:02:48.173" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8218" PostId="6463" Text="Providing the questioner him or herself with an answer is only part of the reason for posting on stack exchange, the answer also stands for anyone else who stumbles across it. The question of which is most demanding of the flash card is a legitimate one for someone unfamiliar with video bitrates, and they might not own a video capable DSLR to do their own tests." CreationDate="2011-01-06T23:34:22.717" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8219" PostId="6534" Score="1" Text="Another alternative, if you're writing C code, would be to extend dcraw to support the simple Aptina raw format. That'd save you the bother of the intermediate step, and if you contribute the patch back upstream, then after a little while every program which bases its raw input code on dcraw will magically work too." CreationDate="2011-01-07T00:31:14.527" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8220" PostId="6554" Text="Thanks. As the Wikipedia reference is uncited, it left me somewhat unsatisfied. Even more thanks for the comparison article! ALTHOUGH it is from 2005 and might be partly outdated, but it has indeed more data than I had in the first place." CreationDate="2011-01-07T00:36:58.620" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8221" PostId="6555" Text="Personally I'm thinking about a window of 50/60-100 years; but your generic answer to my rather generic question probably helps the community more than a specific answer to a certain situation." CreationDate="2011-01-07T00:56:23.993" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8222" PostId="6555" Score="2" Text="If you use a pigment based ink, 60 years should be easy, and 100 years should certainly be achievable. If you want to mount for viewing, and have the money, museum glass in a sealed box mount will probably produce the longest life for your specific situation. You can also buy special wall mount lamps that you then mount the framed picture on, and the lamp can nicely illuminate the print with &quot;benign&quot; wavelengths, for viewing at night or in an area that is not lit by direct sunlight." CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:04:32.580" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8223" PostId="6479" Score="1" Text="Might want to delete this and stick it in a comment. Jokes fit better in comments. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:06:50.630" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8224" PostId="6554" Score="2" Text="I think that article linked about dyesub and inkjet for B&amp;W printing is too dated to be valuable. Ink jet printers use multiple black and gray inks these days to achieve substantially higher grayscale tonality than with the ink jet printers tested in the article. There are also a variety of ink jet papers specifically designed to maximize B&amp;W/grayscale prints made with ink jets." CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:26:09.200" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8225" PostId="6557" Text="Sure, you can do pretty much _anything_ manually. I'm a bit confused by the question." CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:37:42.597" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8226" PostId="6518" Text="@Matt You're right - I'd rather say the viewfinder frame is too small, though ;) @Loren Yes, but I don't see a big difference between looking over my glasses through the viewfinder and looking through it without having my glasses on." CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:40:50.770" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8227" PostId="6531" Text="Thanks for the detailed explanation! On the long run, I will definitely get a new camera. But when I buy a new one, I also want to make the switch to full-format. This means it's getting pretty expensive for me (I'll need new lenses, too), so I won't do this anytime soon." CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:45:01.373" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8228" PostId="6532" Text="I just tried again. I noticed several things: a) I feel more comfortable without the rubber lining; it allows me to get a little closer to the image when I take it off. b) When I shoot upright format, I can see the entire viewfinder without problems (with the rubber lining taken off), so the cause of the problem probably is that I can't get my eye close enough to the viewfinder as my nose hits the display.." CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:57:09.783" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8229" PostId="6557" Text="@mattdm: I couldn't figure out how, is there a tutorial or something?" CreationDate="2011-01-07T01:59:58.640" UserId="2649" />
  <row Id="8230" PostId="6538" Text="Thank you for the information. But although 100% coverage is certainly an advantage, I don't think the coverage, but rather the actual size of the viewfinder is the root of my current problem." CreationDate="2011-01-07T02:05:04.553" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8232" PostId="6532" Score="2" Text="@eWolf: I see. You might want to keep the nose, so try to place the camera more against your cheek rather than straight in front of your face. Try both eyes to find out which one feels more natural to use." CreationDate="2011-01-07T02:36:50.460" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="8233" PostId="6479" Score="1" Text="No, it is not a joke, and I stand by it. Black does make you look slimmer. If not the stupid limitation on 30 characters or so, it would just be &quot;Wear black&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-07T02:39:51.927" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8234" PostId="6535" Text="+1 but I don't think I'd encourage using aRGB without a color-calibrated setup and awareness of the issues with display. (Although, since you suggest shooting in RAW, it's easy to change after the fact.)" CreationDate="2011-01-07T03:15:36.540" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8235" PostId="6540" Text="So then do you only carry 10 gels, one in each pocket, or do you have several per pocket?" CreationDate="2011-01-07T03:15:49.740" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8236" PostId="6548" Text="Do you prefer one over the other for general use?" CreationDate="2011-01-07T03:32:19.823" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8237" PostId="6510" Text="I like the lamination idea, but it would be tricky to fit them in my gel holder (FXtra)." CreationDate="2011-01-07T03:42:03.300" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8238" PostId="6471" Score="2" Text="Solid self-portraits! I think the picture taken by the other photographer vs. the pictures you took yourself are an excellent example of how a bit of technique can really help people look their best. Nice job! As a fellow 'big guy,' I commend you for your decision to post self-portraits on photo.se.com. You're a far braver man than I... :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-07T06:04:43.713" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8239" PostId="6548" Text="Generally speaking I tend to reach for the CTO first because I live in Washington State, so 'pale is the new tan' around here and people seem to appreciate a little bit of that 'healthy tan glow' in their portraits. However... Though I've never worked in a warmer climate... say... San Diego or Florida, I suspect that if I did, my go-to gel would end up being the CTS, 'cause most everyone would already have a basic tan..." CreationDate="2011-01-07T06:09:29.733" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8240" PostId="6471" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - Truth be told I was a bit nervous about posting them, especially the before picture.  BUT, I truly, truly hope it helps some of the larger guys like me out there realize that you can have a decent picture made." CreationDate="2011-01-07T06:15:51.617" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8241" PostId="6471" Text="I think it'll really help people. Personally I tend to be a bit of a PITA when I'm forced in front of the camera (according to my wife, anyway), but I know enough about how to make myself look- passable anyway- that I tend to art direct the shots that other people take of me. &quot;Move left. Close the damn pop-up flash! Move that camera a bit higher. Now I'll just lean forward over my belt a bit aaaand... OK, grandma, take that picture!&quot; Gotta give myself a fighting chance at a decent picture, anyway... Lord knows my wife isn't going to let me completely off without a few pics getting taken. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-07T06:33:32.343" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8242" PostId="6536" Text="@DJClayworth: Yes, of course I would have to wait until the camera warms up before I open the bag. And yes, I could let it warm up in a ziplock bag. But the question was: could I let it warm up in a tight camera bag instead of a ziplock bag?" CreationDate="2011-01-07T08:16:52.293" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="8243" PostId="6557" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: I think the questioner is talking about the built in merge to HDR function, which has an &quot;automatically align source images&quot; option but no &quot;manually align source images&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-07T08:24:35.363" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8244" PostId="6568" Text="Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. I was planning to write a program to do this myself, if I couldn't find anything, and I was just searching for an EXIF library." CreationDate="2011-01-07T09:04:24.953" UserId="3063" />
  <row Id="8245" PostId="6570" Text="I think the questioner wants to know how to manually align layers when using the &quot;merge to HDR&quot; function (which only offers an auto-align option) not how to manually align layers in general. " CreationDate="2011-01-07T10:29:13.633" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8246" PostId="6539" Text="But digikam does not support opening of this particular raw file. Tried that." CreationDate="2011-01-07T12:26:29.280" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="8248" PostId="6539" Text="What I meant was to modify the digiKam code and insert your own raw data prior to writing a DNG, not to try and load your Raws directly. Anyway this was before I knew there was an SDK from Adobe, this will be your best bet. " CreationDate="2011-01-07T14:22:52.783" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8250" PostId="6573" Score="2" Text="The lack of #2 is a little scary at first, but after a few times you start to just get a feel for what it needs to be and then its just minor tweaks.  Shooting in RAW means that if you're a little off its not the end of the world too." CreationDate="2011-01-07T15:00:30.210" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8251" PostId="6570" Text="Yes, that could be. The question is rather vague." CreationDate="2011-01-07T15:03:10.317" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="8252" PostId="6447" Text="@Andrew will do but waiting on a light tent arriving, my best effort DIY tent just won't cut it. So far this is proving quite difficult!" CreationDate="2011-01-07T15:20:36.993" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="8253" PostId="6580" Score="3" Text="Man, you're lucky to have that view from your place! In the middle of the urban area we live in, the only view I have is the next houses or at best some tall trees in the yard and the street that really block everything except the sky." CreationDate="2011-01-07T15:44:10.940" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8254" PostId="6580" Text="I'm with ysap on this... Nice view, I get to look at a farm." CreationDate="2011-01-07T15:48:40.357" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8255" PostId="5406" Score="2" Text="Also, keep in mind that you can change the opacity of specific layers.  This is often very helpful when using multiple duplicate layers, as it allows you to easily tone back your edits." CreationDate="2011-01-07T16:08:27.923" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8256" PostId="6584" Text="thanks, what sort of situations is lens really good for?" CreationDate="2011-01-07T16:16:25.153" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="8257" PostId="6584" Text="@iamjonesy You can use this best in two ways. 1) It can capture lots of light when wide open enabling clearer low light shots with lower ISO settings. 2) It can be used to create depth-of-field effects where the subject is in focus and the background is blurry. Also read: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/the-beauty-of-large-aperture-in-digital-photography" CreationDate="2011-01-07T16:25:51.417" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8258" PostId="6586" Text="@whuber and they're 25% off right now!" CreationDate="2011-01-07T16:26:42.630" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8259" PostId="6584" Text="@kacalapy - ok, once again, its not a &quot;depth-of-field effect&quot;.  Every shot has a certain DOF - the area that is acceptably in focus...you're talking about a *shallow depth of field*." CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:05:51.927" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8260" PostId="6578" Score="2" Text="Agreed, and you can also specify a preset to be applied automatically on import. This is can be a big time saver." CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:30:50.230" UserId="2873" />
  <row Id="8261" PostId="6581" Score="5" Text="Be careful with polarizes and wide angle lenses. They can leave some gradient in your sky depending on your angle to the sun" CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:41:22.187" UserId="2642" />
  <row Id="8262" PostId="6536" Text="Sorry, I thought you were looking to buy a special camera bag to keep the camera in all the time that would prevent condensation. Just pointing out that this is a much cheaper alternative." CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:41:37.433" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="8263" PostId="6585" Score="2" Text="there is a huge difference in price between the 1.8 and the 1.4 - £75 for the 1.8 is a great price" CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:47:20.380" UserId="1907" />
  <row Id="8264" PostId="6321" Text="I made an assumption that you wanted to import the list, but yes you could write the rule to be starting with &quot;XXXXX&quot; or contains &quot;XXXX&quot; Glad it worked for you" CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:52:03.933" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="8265" PostId="6535" Text="Some great ideas. Thanks very much Matt. I don't think I've have to use pano for the small items, but that will certainly allow me to get the detail in the lager ones. I'm not sure it's related but there's an app on the iPhone that takes 6 pictures at once and then somehow blends them together to try an capture a higher resolution and clarity. For some reason that came to mind with the auto-stiching. " CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:10:17.393" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="8266" PostId="6535" Text="Also  I know I have to have it completely parallel so I thought about building a camera table. That will save me having to center and parallel  the to the art work. I'd simply have to center to artwork to a point on the table. It sounds easier but not sure it's cost effective in setup. " CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:12:31.543" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="8267" PostId="6569" Text="Yes I need to light in a way that is consistent and without glare. For the web in the past I even found a way to photograph works under glass by taken the photo askew and then straightening it with software. But I'll never get away with anything like that here. I had planned to get a basic studio lighting kit and experiment. " CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:16:13.177" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="8268" PostId="6154" Text="I wonder if there is a way to leave the hardware shutter open and use the software shutter. It might (and I am guessing) work using the &quot;Mirror Up&quot; feature. I would be interested as well as to what you find out." CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:16:30.547" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="8269" PostId="6572" Text="Thanks for the link. I still have a lot of research to do! Yeah many of the artworks have a thin coat of protective varnish. It's a matte finish but still can pick up light in the individual dimples of the canvas, or even whole areas if the lighting is too focused. (I'm referring to my experience with basic digicam shots). Hopefully once the lighting set up is sorted though it will work across the board for the different 2D media. My fear is having to do a separate setup entirely for each media/size, etc... " CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:20:11.830" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="8270" PostId="6578" Score="2" Text="This isn't 100% accurate; I'm pretty certain that by default Lightroom does apply some very slight basic corrections to the RAW image for displaying. If you select the &quot;Zeroed Out&quot; preset, it will remove these premade corrections." CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:22:16.370" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="8271" PostId="6559" Text="My limited experience in this was seeing fish-eye or pincushion effect with digicame shots. I found ways to straiten them in software but the easiest way for the web was simply to take picture with much larger borders and crop down; with the lens distortion being limited to the edges. However here that would severely limit the advantages of a high resolution image. So a macro lens is definitely something to think about. " CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:23:34.917" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="8272" PostId="6584" Score="2" Text="Just don't get fooled into thinking that you can just open the aperture wide when you're in low light and get great shots. It depends on what you mean by &quot;great&quot;. And &quot;shallow depth of field&quot; better be in your definition of &quot;great&quot; because that's what will happen with the aperture wide open. If you want a lot of detail in a picture with low light, you are going to have to find other ways to compensate lighting: use flash, raise ISO, decrease shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:33:02.647" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8273" PostId="6585" Score="1" Text="As I commented on another answer: a wide aperture is not necessarily great for low light. If I want to get a good picture of the entire room with a bunch of people in it, a shallow depth of field is undesirable. I would need to look for other means of dealing with low light. However, a wide aperture is great for a low light portrait." CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:36:22.253" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8274" PostId="6578" Text="@Alan: Nice to know! Here's an article that confirms/explains the basic corrections.  http://blogs.oreilly.com/lightroom/2007/05/using-the-develop-modules-pres.html " CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:39:59.473" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8275" PostId="6582" Text="I've flagged this question for moderator attention. It's quite specific and subjective. It also entirely depends on your budget. Perhaps we can reword differently to make it more generally useful? Otherwise it should probably be closed." CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:44:25.677" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8276" PostId="6582" Text="Here's a possibly relevant discussion on meta: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/529/should-we-create-a-separate-camera-gear-recommendation-site" CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:46:00.433" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8277" PostId="6584" Text="@Tom - +1 !, additionally, its very, very difficult to keep focus on moving objects (even people walking around) at wide open, big apertures - the depth of field is razor thin" CreationDate="2011-01-07T19:02:58.097" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8278" PostId="6592" Score="3" Text="I'm sorry I don't understand how a telephoto lens can &quot;reach through&quot; haze. Yes a wide angle lens will pick up light from a high number of angles, but a portion of the centre of the image will receive light from the same number of angles as a telephoto lens that frames only this portion!" CreationDate="2011-01-07T19:07:53.643" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8279" PostId="6580" Text="It comes from living on the fringe of a large city. This picture was taken maybe half a mile from my house, easy walking distance, so..." CreationDate="2011-01-07T19:18:13.620" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8280" PostId="6585" Text="@Tom What is the other way you go about getting a shot of a room with a bunch of people in it without a large aperture?" CreationDate="2011-01-07T19:35:58.390" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8281" PostId="6592" Text="As an alternative to shooting tele and losing some of the greatness of the mountain chain, you can try cropping your image to extract most of the vegetation and some of the skies, and give it a more panoramic feel. (I went on and tried that out, but had to open a new answer to attach the picture)" CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:01:45.597" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8282" PostId="4953" Text="This is a good solution but there are answers further down that actually provide the automation the OP was looking for." CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:06:40.267" UserId="540" />
  <row Id="8283" PostId="6585" Text="@kacalapy: I'm new to this too but here's my understanding: You can decrease the shutter speed, but honestly, you can only go so low **especially** if things are moving. If people are standing still, maybe you can use a low shutter speed, but you probably won't be able to go to 1/2 or 1 sec. Once you push the limit of shutter speed you can try to increase ISO. You have a D7000 which is great at going to high ISOs. But again, there will be a limit because at some point your pictures will get too grainy. If that won't work, you simply need more light: that's where your flash comes in." CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:08:51.513" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8284" PostId="6592" Text="@Matt: In my experience, telephoto lens hoods are much deeper, and usually circular rather than petal shaped. I've taken plenty of landscape shots with both wide angle and telephoto lenses, and the telephotos, when they have their hood attached, don't encounter as much of a problem with haze. Without a lens hood, its about the same, since as you said the lens will still pick up light coming from all angles. With a wide angle, even with a hood, you are going to pick up light from a very broad range regardless. With a telephoto+hood, you pick up light from mostly directly front." CreationDate="2011-01-07T21:25:16.787" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8285" PostId="6592" Text="Perhaps saying it &quot;reaches through&quot; haze is not the best term to describe it. The point is that you don't encounter as much contrast-reducing random light rays entering your lens when photographing with a telephoto lens with its hood, than you do with a wide angle lens (with or without a hood). You will still see haze that is directly in front of you, but the overall scene contrast will not be reduced as much by as many randomly dispersed light from off-angles." CreationDate="2011-01-07T21:27:30.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8286" PostId="6596" Text="thanks for the examples, they look good!" CreationDate="2011-01-07T21:50:18.057" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="8287" PostId="6592" Text="It seems like you're mixing haze with lens flare, they are two totally different effects, flare is only going to be problem when shooting close(ish) to the sun. With your back to the sun you're still going to see haze (tue result of scattering by airborne particles between you and the subject), but the contrast reducing non imaging light rays will be negligible." CreationDate="2011-01-07T22:35:00.433" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8288" PostId="6598" Score="6" Text="This is where @mattdm shows up with his rant about exposure triangles and its better as a rectangular prism (which it really is)....http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5586/how-to-use-the-different-shutter-speeds/5587#5587" CreationDate="2011-01-07T22:53:25.950" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8289" PostId="6598" Text="I was looking for that earlier, but forgot that it was in a comment." CreationDate="2011-01-07T22:54:49.893" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8290" PostId="6599" Score="1" Text="+1 Superb! Love the image and how it relates secondary effects of each setting." CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:06:06.083" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8291" PostId="6595" Text="In that situation I would expect wind to increase the number of airborne particles, not decrease it.  Right after heavy rain or between rain showers when not windy would probably be best." CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:18:02.717" UserId="3045" />
  <row Id="8292" PostId="6592" Score="1" Text="@Matt, that's true, but reducing lens flare may bring the total contrast to something that's acceptable." CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:36:09.547" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8293" PostId="6582" Score="2" Text="I think it's a fine question: &quot;what's an acceptable price for lens X&quot; is totally valid, as is &quot;is lens X a good lens and when would I use it?&quot; -- in particular, we have tons of examples of the latter question already." CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:37:32.290" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8294" PostId="6585" Text="@kacalapy: How bright your exposure is depends on things besides aperture, like shutter speed, ISO, and how much light is in the room. You could shoot a group of people with a tiny aperture like f/32 or even f/80, if you have the light/shutter speed/ISO needed. See [What is the “exposure triangle”?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6598/378)" CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:48:21.133" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8295" PostId="6582" Text="I don't think it's subjective at all... OP isn't asking what 'the best' lens is, or what-have-you..." CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:55:33.500" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8296" PostId="5898" Text="@Stan A 50 f/4 does not have the same aperture size as a 100 f/4, so the depth of field is different at the same distance." CreationDate="2011-01-07T23:55:42.750" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8297" PostId="6599" Text="+1 Excellent response, should be in a text book!" CreationDate="2011-01-08T00:20:53.037" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8298" PostId="6582" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: I think the question should be rephrased. Don't you think &quot;Should I by this...&quot; is not something *any* of us can answer. The OP needs to decide on his own after we give him hard facts about the lens: what the typical going rate is, how it behaves in different conditions, what it's compatible with. I don't think this question is not useful... but I think as stated it's not too helpful." CreationDate="2011-01-08T00:21:41.267" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8299" PostId="6582" Text="@Reid: I'm not sure about &quot;what's an acceptable price...&quot;. I suppose it's fine but it gets into the discussion on meta where we were saying that information gets out of date. Also, &quot;is lens X a good lens?&quot; is *only* a valid question when it's followed by &quot;and when would I use it?&quot; because it depends on what you use it for :-). The &quot;when would I use it?&quot; questions are *great* questions for this site." CreationDate="2011-01-08T00:24:30.623" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8300" PostId="6592" Text="@Matt: Sun flare is a harsh example of something more general...the reflecting of light non-incident rays off lens elements within a lens, and eventually striking the sensor. What I am talking about is a lessening of contrast due to a *general*, rather than *specific* effect of a high concentration of non-incident light rays. It is not a common effect, and I've only encountered it on days with a lot of thick haze. I could probably diagram what I am describing, and we could discuss it further in the Photo.SE chat." CreationDate="2011-01-08T01:11:19.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8301" PostId="6592" Text="My comment was in regard to the idea that a telephoto + lens hood would minimise haze, I agree that if you have haze and flare, reducing flare will help the look of the image, but that's no different from the situation in which there is no haze. If you shoot with your back to the sun (which is a good technique to reduce the effects of haze) then there shouldn't be any lens flare." CreationDate="2011-01-08T01:13:22.060" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8302" PostId="6595" Text="In very dry conditions strong winds will stir up dust from the ground, but in general haze is the result of smaller particles, higher up, as well as tiny droplets of water, and man made pollution. These build up when you have high pressure and it takes wind to disperse them. The dispersion effect is usually stronger than the addition of any particles from the ground. " CreationDate="2011-01-08T01:19:51.977" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8303" PostId="6592" Text="My point, that you seem to be missing, is that haze scatters light. You don't need a single, concentrated light source to produce contrast-reducing &quot;flare&quot;...a less intense general light source...like a hazy sky, can produce the same thing in a more general, less pronounced fashion. I'm not talking about eliminating the harsh spots and low contrast blobs from sun flare. I'm talking about a full scene contrast reduction...of a much lesser, but still apparent, degree caused by haze." CreationDate="2011-01-08T01:23:34.153" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8304" PostId="6559" Text="Removing lens destortion from a Canon lens should be much easier than with the proprietary lens of a compact camera. Canon offers lens profiles for all of their lenses that you can just apply in Photoshop or Lightroom (or maybe in other apps, too?) and immediately, all distortion, vignetting a.s.o. is gone. Of course you're right about the resolution - but rest assured that this will definitely be better than with a compact camera in every case." CreationDate="2011-01-08T02:02:25.370" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8305" PostId="6582" Text="Seems like the tires were kicked on this question here: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/197/equipment-recommendation-questions" CreationDate="2011-01-08T03:05:25.900" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8307" PostId="6540" Text="I carry twice the number of strobes per shoot. I have three strobes right now, so I have six gels of each flavor per pocket. This way if I need to double up I can. I also put velcro on each flash and each gel (about an hour of work one rainy night) so that I don't have to fuss with gaffer on the go (I always have gaffer, just got tired of the sticky buildup on strobe heads). This way I can just slap the gel(s) on and get to work." CreationDate="2011-01-08T06:35:55.567" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="8308" PostId="5711" Text="You might even consider overpowering the ambient light with flash onto the netting, so that it shows up better against the background. This might make it easier to make a mask." CreationDate="2011-01-08T08:23:46.973" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8309" PostId="6602" Text="Does Rembrandt lighting have to be short? Could you keep the subject and light static, but photograph more from the lit side, thus making a broad Rembrandt lighting setup?" CreationDate="2011-01-08T08:27:41.420" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8310" PostId="6602" Score="1" Text="Well, short and broad are their own distinct styles of lighting. Rembrandt is just Rembrandt whichever side you place in the shadow. That aside, it is generally more difficult and 'fiddly' to light the side closest to the camera for two reasons, the first is that the 45-degree thing doesn't work the same if you're lighting closest to the camera, the correct angle is more like 65 degrees off axis from the subject, which is harder to just eyeball. The second is that because the nose is covering a good chunk of the triangle of light, you have to position the camera juuuust right" CreationDate="2011-01-08T09:44:08.703" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8311" PostId="6602" Text="...in order for the camera to be able to see it, and if you rotate the camera around the axis of your subject too far you end up catching the light (or a nasty lens flare) in your shot. The real power of the basic Rembrandt setup is that a monkey can set Rembrandt lighting up in its sleep with one arm tied behind its back. You can get some interesting results by reversing it, but you take away everything that's 'easy' about the setup when you do. That's not a reason not to do it (necessarily), just something to be aware of before you go in..." CreationDate="2011-01-08T09:47:27.950" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8312" PostId="6495" Text="@Tom &quot;Freelance teacher&quot; would be a better badge in this case, if there was one :-D" CreationDate="2011-01-08T10:09:01.603" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8313" PostId="6599" Text="&quot;A **longer** shutter speed&quot;? I think you mean a *slower* speed or a longer *exposure*" CreationDate="2011-01-08T12:46:23.380" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="8314" PostId="3644" Score="1" Text="Orange. I don't see any..." CreationDate="2011-01-08T13:02:08.080" UserId="1622" />
  <row Id="8315" PostId="3635" Score="2" Text="Does everyone really see the same colors similarly?" CreationDate="2011-01-08T13:04:43.133" UserId="1622" />
  <row Id="8316" PostId="6492" Text="Agreed, it works very well." CreationDate="2011-01-08T14:01:43.897" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="8318" PostId="242" Score="1" Text="+1 This is clearly the best beginner tip, because it can be applied instantly. There is no need of buying or studying about it, also it's very simple. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T15:48:39.720" UserId="3086" />
  <row Id="8320" PostId="6607" Text="LOL, I answered at almost the same time, so..." CreationDate="2011-01-08T16:02:35.117" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8321" PostId="6609" Text="That certainly is an impressive photo! I've heard the term diffraction before. It was mentioned as a problem - does (and how does) diffraction appear anywhere besides from shots like these (directly into the light source)? From my understanding, it shouldn't be a problem usually." CreationDate="2011-01-08T16:45:02.733" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8322" PostId="955" Text="I've got it too, full ack!" CreationDate="2011-01-08T16:55:45.583" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8323" PostId="6609" Score="1" Text="In simple terms (see whuber's answer for a detailed analysis!) diffraction causes light to spread out. This is obviously a problem if all points of light spread out, as this will give a blurry image. Diffraction happens all the time, it's just the spreading is not noticeable for big gaps or dim lights. What we have here is a very small gap, and a bright source, so the star pattern which would usually be too dim is clearly visible." CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:06:14.173" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8328" PostId="6599" Text="Yes, my terminology is confusing (though I think it's still correct (a 10 minute wait is **longer** than a 5 minute wait)." CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:47:10.847" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="8329" PostId="6615" Score="2" Text="I realized we have great questions/answers on aperture, decent ones on shutter speeds, and nothing which really gets to the heart of this third exposure factor. So, here we go. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:18:24.297" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8330" PostId="6163" Text="Note: creative control of shutter speed can also mean a *fast* shutter, e.g. if you're trying to particularly freeze motion." CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:32:37.223" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8331" PostId="6161" Score="1" Text="Not answering your direct question, but a comment regarding your initial motivation: Many cameras will give you some sort of warning indicator in the viewfinder if the shutter speed that's being chosen in Aperture Priority mode is going to be slow enough to be likely to cause blur from camera shake.  You may want to try to identify what that indicator looks like for your camera, and then watch for it -- then you can stick with Aperture priority.  Another option is to use Manual mode, where you have control of both at the same time!" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:34:44.240" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8332" PostId="6165" Text="Nice answer, André!  This does a good job of summing it up.  And I'll just point out that the one mode (other than special automatic modes) that you haven't named is M, which you seem to be implying without mentioning, and I think warrants explicit mention.  :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:36:55.800" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8333" PostId="6162" Score="1" Text="Allow me to disagree with &quot;This should probably be your main mode that you shoot in.&quot; -- Different modes are good for different situations, and for different shooters -- if I thought my way was &quot;right&quot;, I'd say that M &quot;should probably be your main mode that you shoot in&quot;, but really, it's up to the individual, what your skills are, what your situations are, etc. etc.  There is no &quot;should&quot;.  :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:39:43.330" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8334" PostId="6616" Score="5" Text="This is very subjective and can't really be answered in general. The question is likely to be closed. If you can frame it in terms of more specific concerns, you might be able to get more helpful advice." CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:41:24.947" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8335" PostId="6615" Text="There's a fourth exposure factor: Amount of light.  ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:41:54.373" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8336" PostId="6615" Score="1" Text="That's a matter of where you place your terms. :) For any given scene, there is a certain Exposure Value which will record an image with a certain average brightness value. By adjusting aperture, exposure time, or sensitivity, you change the exposure value, and for a constant scene that changes the &quot;exposure&quot; of the resulting output image. By changing the lighting, you change the scene itself, meaning that a different exposure value will be required to record the same brightness in the resulting image." CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:51:02.957" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8337" PostId="6615" Text="Traditionally, EV is just Av × Tv. With sensor gain under easy immediate control, these days it's effectively: Av × Tv × Sv = EV. Then, EV / lighting = final exposure." CreationDate="2011-01-08T18:54:23.470" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8338" PostId="6615" Text="Fair enough; considering a lighting change to be a &quot;change of scene&quot;, and thus &quot;separate&quot; from exposure value, seems a valid way to describe it.  As such, whether lighting of a scene is an &quot;exposure factor&quot; is certainly arguable, though I like to think of it as one.  :)  It's certainly not one that you control from within the camera, though -- err, unless you're controlling the flash brightness from within the camera.  :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T19:17:14.237" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8339" PostId="6625" Text="Just to let you know, the paintings are Divinely Fair by Henry Thomas Shafer (1893), a frame glicee print 26x40, and Bougainvilea Archway by Joyce Birkenstock, a frame poster print 18x24. The charity is Boy Scouts of America. Contact me at ben@pearsonartphoto.com if you're interested. " CreationDate="2011-01-08T19:49:03.680" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8340" PostId="6616" Score="2" Text="Better is entirely subjective with nothing more specific. What do you photograph, what are your priorities?" CreationDate="2011-01-08T19:50:18.210" UserId="1969" />
  <row Id="8341" PostId="6625" Text="Well, it looks like Matt and I are giving the same answer... Well, at least they stand a good change of being correct. By the way, you may want to look for a book called &quot;Light: Science and Magic&quot; as it describes all sorts of lighting including this one." CreationDate="2011-01-08T19:54:00.660" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8342" PostId="6622" Score="8" Text="That is, assuming, all other things are equal. Pushing the exposure in post processing will expose the noise, but if that ISO 100 shot had a longer exposure so that it was correctly exposed, the noise difference may not be so evident. Also, newer sensors make this a little less painful. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:02:30.330" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8343" PostId="6616" Text="Welcome to photo.se! Can you tell us more about yourself and what you would like to photograph? Otherwise, we will have a hard time answering this question." CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:09:15.777" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8344" PostId="6625" Text="you beat me by three minutes, I'll leave mine up as I'm quite proud of how well (at least for me) that five minute diagram came out, there's a reason I'm a photographer not an artist!" CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:18:28.077" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8345" PostId="6626" Text="That's what I would have guessed, but it's nice to have it confirmed. Will probably have to wait until it's a bit darker so I have more controlled light, there's just too much light in the day..." CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:18:35.970" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8346" PostId="6622" Score="3" Text="@John When making comparisons it makes sense to keep the other variables the same, no? Anyway the point I'm making is if the ISO100 shot had been two seconds it would have been less noisy, but that would be **due to the extra light**, not the lower ISO, because when the amount of light was the same the lower ISO did not result in less noise." CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:23:16.093" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8347" PostId="6622" Text="But yeah, I agree newer sensors with super low read noise like the Pentax K5 are worth it as this shows! Other manufacturers take note!" CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:27:06.887" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8348" PostId="6630" Text="Good catch, I should have included them... I'll add them." CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:31:05.390" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8349" PostId="6622" Text="For the sake of completeness, it might be good to also have a pair of examples that show what happens if ISO is too high (i.e., you are clipping highlights)." CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:35:17.007" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="8350" PostId="6625" Score="1" Text="@Matt - You're a much better artist than me! Which is why I write software. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:39:35.943" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8352" PostId="6630" Score="1" Text="Some noise reduction settings are &quot;real&quot; (after taking the picture, the camera takes another picture with the shutter closed)." CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:56:37.120" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="8353" PostId="6628" Score="7" Text="@Andrew-- I went your route when learning photography, buying more and more camera until I found one that I felt suited me.  I can say that it's a fun ride, but you might get more out of switching to an SLR, getting a prime, and shooting things in A or S modes.  That's when I felt that my learning really took off." CreationDate="2011-01-08T21:32:45.467" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8354" PostId="6630" Text="@Jukka Good one!" CreationDate="2011-01-08T21:38:36.837" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8355" PostId="6628" Text="I agree with @mmr. Take a look at this question I asked: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost. You don't even have to go as high end as I went, but I think the same principles apply." CreationDate="2011-01-08T21:56:11.673" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8356" PostId="6626" Text="Well put, and I always love your diagrams. What did you use to make this one?" CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:01:14.587" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8357" PostId="6621" Score="2" Text="Excellent examples." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:03:10.833" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8358" PostId="6620" Score="5" Text="+1 because it actually answers the question." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:11:32.873" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8359" PostId="6615" Score="2" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2946/378 for a discussion of how digital cameras implement ISO." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:12:35.183" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8360" PostId="6622" Score="2" Text="Wow, great explanation! This kind of stuff is great for beginners (like myself) to read! +1." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:13:14.763" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8361" PostId="2950" Text="Just a note on ETTR: many times when people first see this advice, they don't remember the second part. Not clipping highlights is both crucial and difficult." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:17:31.187" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8362" PostId="6632" Score="2" Text="Your camera *should* in fact take into account the extra exposure for the built-in flash. Like all modern dSLR systems, Nikon uses a pre-flash based TTL exposure calculation system — before the exposure, it fires a brief flash pulse and uses the information measured in that time to calculate the amount of flash to use for the selected aperture and ISO." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:20:47.987" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8363" PostId="6632" Text="hmm... I find the flash pictures to be over-exposed, I think... why not post as an answer?" CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:22:18.767" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8364" PostId="6632" Text="These systems have some drawbacks, though. So, really, the question has three parts: 1) how to deal with deficiencies in modern TTL systems; 2) how to set the camera when using a flash with its own flash sensor (usually called &quot;thyristor&quot; although that's largely not technically accurate); and 3) how to manage manually-controlled flash lighting." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:23:48.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8365" PostId="6533" Text="For a nice explanation of the lighting see the thread at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6625/1356 ." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:24:11.010" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8366" PostId="6632" Text="@mattdm, thanks for helping to clarify. Do you think some of this should be separate questions or is the question fine just the way it is?" CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:28:17.747" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8367" PostId="6629" Text="Ooops.  The other meaning of &quot;virtual images&quot; just didn't occur to me (and it really, really ought to have done).  I'll see if I can think up a _real_ question about virtual images to make up for it.  Thanks for the list." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:41:17.210" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="8368" PostId="6622" Score="2" Text="The bottom picture is noisier because it is incorrectly exposed, not because the ISO is lower!  A realistic comparison would expose it at 1/2 sec, not 1/30 sec." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:43:26.407" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8369" PostId="6628" Text="@mmr: I'm extremely happy with the one I have and doubt that I'll upgrade further until the kids have left home (about 20yrs time).  I looked at DSLRs but the sheer size and weight put me off.  (The actual camera is an Olympus Pen E-PL1).  I've had a lot of fun playing with it, and have gotten a few really nice photos, but feel it's been more by luck than judgement and now want to be a bit more scientific in my learning, hence the question." CreationDate="2011-01-08T22:45:52.650" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="8373" PostId="6622" Score="3" Text="@whuber, he is comparing analog gain vs digital gain.  See the first sentence, where he says to increase the ISO to the max without overexposing (this is wrong actually, overexposing is good for noise) and clipping highlights (this should be the only stipulation).  In this method of choosing an exposure, the shutter speed and aperture are already chosen (@Matt, you should state that explicitly as it will probably confuse beginners) for creative effect or minimize hand/subject movement.   The effect of aperture and shutter speed on increasing the amount of light (over ISO) should be highlighted" CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:21:19.867" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="8374" PostId="6640" Text="Hah, beat me by a minute with basically the same answer. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:36:54.400" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8375" PostId="6634" Score="1" Text="What exactly is &quot;image quality&quot;? How would you compare it objectively?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:38:44.337" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8376" PostId="6621" Score="1" Text="Great answer. Awesome pics!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:39:20.600" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8377" PostId="6640" Text="LOL, it often happens with these basic questions;-) It looks like there was actually 3 answers that basically said the same thing within a few minutes of each other..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:46:16.707" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8378" PostId="6640" Text="Can you also adjust the strength of the flash in order to get a hint of glow on the subject in a dark room? " CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:51:31.370" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8379" PostId="6640" Text="You can absolutely adjust the strength of the flash. That's a good point, I'll add it." CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:53:27.603" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8380" PostId="6640" Score="1" Text="Another advantage of speedlights is the abiity to adjust power settings quickly without digging around in the menu like for your pop-up flash." CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:53:55.250" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8381" PostId="6641" Text="There was a answer that mentioned bounce cards, in response to that post that disappeared: Sound like the additional benefits of bBounce cards would be desirable in use with all flash applications. Why don't speed lights come with this feature built in? Would you not want to bounce light from above, below, and more locations to get light distributed evenly on the subject?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T00:58:44.937" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8382" PostId="6603" Text="This will be nearly impossible to diagnose via the web based on a single picture... At *best* this can only lead to tons of speculative answers about the cause which you won't be able to confirm without disassembling the camera further, and in the majority of cases you won't be able to fix yourself anyway. Take it to a camera shop. Have someone look at it and give you a diagnosis and/or a quote for repair..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T01:03:23.987" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8383" PostId="6611" Text="This is clearly the most detailed answer. Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T01:34:20.627" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8384" PostId="6620" Score="3" Text="+1 because of the same reason @Evan Krall said" CreationDate="2011-01-09T01:36:29.407" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="8385" PostId="6634" Text="There's several factors that I could see this including. They include the amount of time it takes to take a picture, the amount of noise on the image and other qualifiers, and probably some others as well." CreationDate="2011-01-09T01:47:49.657" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8386" PostId="6636" Text="Note that the reviews at dpreview.com not only contains sample images, but also test images of standard scenes as well as comparisons between how different cameras handles the test shots." CreationDate="2011-01-09T01:48:15.473" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="8387" PostId="6626" Text="Could a polarizing filter help? It probably wouldn't be as effective on its own compared to controlled lightning, but as an addition?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T01:52:44.863" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8388" PostId="6626" Text="@koiyu - Yes, the polarizer can help to a point, but only with the polarized reflected light. Even with that, however, you will get glare if you don't consider the angle of the rest of your light. " CreationDate="2011-01-09T02:02:06.870" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8389" PostId="6640" Text="@mattdm and @pearsonartphoto - Yep, with that many correct, I had to vote for you all! ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T02:04:16.120" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8390" PostId="6637" Score="3" Text="While DXOMark is a nice metric that has some measurement value, it encompasses very little of what constitutes image quality. " CreationDate="2011-01-09T02:28:46.510" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8391" PostId="6641" Text="Many flashes do have a built-in pull-out bounce card. They work, but are rather small (by nature). As for *where* you want light, that depends. There have been some great posts here recently on portrait lighting....." CreationDate="2011-01-09T02:53:14.713" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8392" PostId="6639" Score="1" Text="While I agree with the basic sentiment, I think it's worth noting that different cameras are better for different purposes. For an extreme example, consider a Sinar -- undeniably a good camera, but I sure wouldn't want to use it to shoot a basketball game!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T03:08:51.577" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="8393" PostId="6603" Text="Then I won't worry about it. I was just curios and thought it might be something someone here my know about." CreationDate="2011-01-09T03:21:44.547" UserId="2880" />
  <row Id="8394" PostId="6646" Text="Probably true, but ACR/Lightroom noise reduction isn't up there with Topaz Denoise or Noise Ninja. Those are worth a Google and they have trial versions to experiment with." CreationDate="2011-01-09T03:24:48.750" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8395" PostId="6601" Score="5" Text="Keep this stuff coming - VERY HELPFUL." CreationDate="2011-01-09T03:36:00.460" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8396" PostId="6602" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - What software are you using to do the diagrams?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T03:36:50.380" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8397" PostId="6602" Text="Ok, time to go try this.  We'll see  if I'm at least as smart as a sleeping, one armed monkey." CreationDate="2011-01-09T03:38:07.867" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8398" PostId="6622" Score="6" Text="-1. Sorry, but your explanation doesn't change the fact that your basic statement is wrong. What you normally want to use is the lowest ISO that will give proper exposure with a usable combination of shutter speed and aperture. Underexposure (regardless of ISO) will lead to noise problems, but the problem is the underexposure, not the low ISO." CreationDate="2011-01-09T04:12:09.120" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="8399" PostId="6622" Score="3" Text="Good explanation and a good way of thinking about it!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:11:07.533" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8400" PostId="6622" Text="You're right, it's actually the lower number of photons that create at least one form of noise.  But, if you actually *do* change your shutter speed and/or aperture (following the law of reciprocity, as one would normally do), then guess what: you get more photons on the sensor for the same &quot;exposure&quot; (call it EV as adjusted for the ISO in question)!  So, less noise!  Also, surely your &quot;processed in exactly the same way&quot; statement is misleading: You followed the same methodology, but surely not the same actual settings (of e.g. &quot;Exposure&quot; compensation) -- right?  What *was* your processing?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:31:31.827" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8401" PostId="6622" Score="1" Text="Note: I do thank you for pointing out and linking to the different types of Noise... that part of this answer is definitely useful, so thank you!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:34:22.370" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8402" PostId="6622" Score="1" Text="also, side-note on my first comment: I suppose it's no longer technically the law of reciprocity when you add ISO to the mix, but hopefully my point comes across.  4 stops less sensitivity deserves 4 stops more exposure value (more time, presumably (taking exposure to 1/2&quot;), since you're already at 2.8, unless the lens is an f/0.7 lens.  :D)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:39:58.527" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8403" PostId="6602" Text="Let us know how it goes! The diagrams aren't actually a piece of software, they're a Photoshop template. More info on it (and a download link) can be found here: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/10/easy-diy-lighting-diagrams.html" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:45:21.903" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8404" PostId="6635" Text="I'll admit I didn't read anything on the strobist blog yet, but I'm a little confused. I believe from what everyone is saying that my camera has TTL flash, but are you suggesting that the camera adjusts how powerful the flash is to get the correct exposure, so that it doesn't matter how under exposed I am according to the exposure meter? I am unable to see the exposure meter adjust itself in any way when I pop up the flash." CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:50:34.683" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8405" PostId="6643" Score="4" Text="It should be noted that the analog signal will not necessarily be mapped to an 8-bit image. When working with RAW, image bit depth is usually 12-16 bits, with a very few medium format cameras offering full 24-bit RAW format. The number of digital levels could be anything from 255 (8bit), 4096 (12bit), 16384 (14bit), 65536 (16bit), or in the case of 24-bit MF, 16777216!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:54:05.337" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8406" PostId="6650" Score="1" Text="Is this question related to working with a photograph, or is it a general image editing/photoshop question?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T05:57:43.243" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8407" PostId="6639" Text="This is exactly what I suggested: decide which broad category of camera he wants, then use SnapSort to recommend a specific model." CreationDate="2011-01-09T06:10:36.800" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="8408" PostId="6602" Score="1" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - http://www.flickr.com/photos/55358132@N05/5338348966/" CreationDate="2011-01-09T06:12:23.197" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8409" PostId="6602" Text="Hey, that came out really nice! Kinda 'evil looking'... But nice! You're right that a reflector or a light at half the power of your main light will bring some detail back into the shadows and make you look less intense... Unless you're into that sort of thing. :-) Hopefully the whole thing lived up to my 'sleeping monkey' claim..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T06:35:47.987" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8410" PostId="6602" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - Definitely easy, I wholeheartedly recommend to anybody to take 15 minutes and set it up if you're not familiar with this kind of stuff.  Little things get learned every time you setup!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T07:00:31.937" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8411" PostId="6621" Score="2" Text="These are great examples and inspired me to try a lighting on the background similarly.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T07:11:20.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8412" PostId="6658" Score="3" Text="Generally the panning technique that rfusca describes is one of those techniques in photography where you find yourself trying it 10 times (or more!) and hope that a couple turn out nicely. It can make for a wonderful sense of motion in a picture, but it is faaar from an exact science to capture a good one..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T07:40:14.553" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8413" PostId="6656" Text="I'll be your dancin' monkey and answer this quesiton! ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T07:48:42.843" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8414" PostId="6112" Text="Thanks for the comments everyone... i tried it and it worked fine.. seemed to overexpose in auto mode (could need some cleaning of the sensor), but playing around with manual settings i was able to get some good results. " CreationDate="2011-01-09T07:57:20.133" UserId="1455" />
  <row Id="8415" PostId="6658" Text="It all depends on how much blur you're willing to accept on your subject. Often in a panning shot, blur on the subject is unavoidable, especially around the arms and legs. If you capture the emotion of the scene, and the subject is &quot;sharp enough&quot;, it's not always necessary to get it perfect." CreationDate="2011-01-09T08:04:39.163" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8416" PostId="6635" Text="I'm assuming you're using M mode, since your camera is actually displaying a meter. You actually don't want the camera to adjust its meter. If it took the TTL flash into account, it would always be centered at zero, because the flash will adjust itself to properly expose the picture. With the meter operating as it does, you know how dark the background will be compared to your subject. If your meter reads 2 stops dark, and you have TTL flash on, then your background will be 2 stops darker than the subject." CreationDate="2011-01-09T08:14:45.787" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8417" PostId="6635" Text="If you want the background to be only one stop below your subject, or maybe you want it darker, you can adjust your exposure so that the meter reads -1 or -3, respectively." CreationDate="2011-01-09T08:16:22.807" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8418" PostId="6650" Text="I've closed this as off-topic, as it appears to be a general image editing/general photoshop question. If this does pertain to editing a photo, I'll re-open, but please edit the question to make that clearer." CreationDate="2011-01-09T08:18:01.873" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8419" PostId="6165" Text="Thanks for the heads up lindes, I've updated the entry." CreationDate="2011-01-09T12:02:25.477" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="8420" PostId="6622" Text="@lindes I processed the photos in *exactly* the same way using *exactly* the same mouse clicks (details are on the image). If you follow the law of reciprocity you will get less noise **because you've now got more light, and more light equals less noise!**. If you shoot at 1/30s ISO1600 you get noise, if you shoot 1/30s ISO100 you get noise, if you shoot 1/2s ISO100 you get very little noise. The factor that changes between the noise and very little noise case is the shutter speed! That's the point that people simply refuse to accept, yet it's so easy to demonstrate..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T12:18:29.917" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8421" PostId="6639" Score="2" Text="It's a nice sentiment but you've clearly not tried to use the camera on my old cell phone. It was truly terrible. In the hands of the greatest photographer alive you might get some interesting shots, but I think the same photographer would get even better photos (and a lot more of them) with a high quality camera and lens. With this in mind, why not strive to get the best camera *in addition to being a good photographer?*" CreationDate="2011-01-09T12:29:36.790" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8422" PostId="6624" Text="Ok, so I misunderstood how remote flashes work. I thought there is an infrared signal used, and this infrared signal is sent by the DSLR body. Thanks for pointing me out in the right direction." CreationDate="2011-01-09T12:52:53.287" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="8423" PostId="6669" Text="Another use of first sync would be to shoot something like a light saber fighter in action. You could want to make sure the fighter would be shown in the starting stance and then show the moving saber as the trail. :o)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T13:09:06.850" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="8424" PostId="6622" Score="2" Text="**@Jerry Coffin** the statement is **not** wrong. It will in fact lead to the same settings as your suggestion! Dropping the ISO in auto mode until the shutter/aperture are as long/wide as you can get away with, **is the same** as setting the shutter and aperture as long/wide as you can get away with and then upping the ISO 'till you get the correct exposure! Please reconsider your downvote, as this is important (I've seen people shooting in manual and lowering the ISO and underexposing because they think high ISOs cause noise). Or if you still disagree please provide a counterexample!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T13:28:15.700" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8425" PostId="6643" Text="Are there really any MF cameras offering 24-bit digitisation? 16.78 million is many many times more than the number of actual photons hitting each pixel (around 85k)! Therefore the extra bits can only be encoding noise." CreationDate="2011-01-09T14:28:57.093" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8426" PostId="6643" Text="@jrista: Thanks, I should have included that..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T14:36:25.980" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8427" PostId="6294" Text="Jay, have you used all these things on lenses?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T14:38:52.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8429" PostId="6676" Score="1" Text="That's Matt. After playing a little more I've discovered if I leave the AF as half press shutter and press the AE/AF-L I can always release the shutter, even if not focused. That's the behaviour I would like. I don't like having to keep my finger pressed on a button to keep the focus and be able to shoot." CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:15:39.003" UserId="3121" />
  <row Id="8431" PostId="6676" Text="	&#xA;With Canon that's certainly the case with back button focus - the camera will always release the shutter as soon as you press it. I assume there must be a setting somewhere to enable this on your D3100. If that's the case I'm sure the experts on photo-se will know it!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:26:25.583" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8432" PostId="6677" Score="2" Text="At least you got a great photo out of it!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:26:42.603" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="8433" PostId="6678" Text="Thanks John. I suspect too this may be a limitation. Not sure if its intentional or a firmware bug. Leaving the button arrangement as per default and having the focus lock function makes more sense right now. At least I can shoot no matter what the focus is as long as I have it pressed in.  " CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:29:46.083" UserId="3121" />
  <row Id="8434" PostId="6673" Score="2" Text="What had happened to your lens?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:31:23.413" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8435" PostId="6679" Text="Those are bigger cameras. I know I should have stated it in the question but I'm only interested in compact cameras. Also the Olympus IR-500 don't really have any fragile parts when it is closed, the screen covers the camera so it is completely protected." CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:32:25.627" UserId="3122" />
  <row Id="8436" PostId="6671" Score="3" Text="Out of curiosity: what do the photos look like when shot with that?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:35:15.733" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="8437" PostId="6678" Score="1" Text="@Kevin - I suspect it is intentional. If the camera released before focus, the average beginner would probably be complaining about out of focus shots." CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:36:54.360" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8438" PostId="6679" Score="1" Text="You can (and should) edit your question to include that requirement. Are you looking for a point &amp; shoot camera?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:46:36.240" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8439" PostId="6597" Text="Yeah, bu that makes it into a pano shot. Still, I've done shots like this, so..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T15:55:11.420" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8440" PostId="6669" Score="3" Text="Canon E-TTL always fires metering pre-flash before the exposure, so when you use 2nd curtain sync you'll have two noticable flash firings. Given that some people manage to blink even of 1st curtain flash, everything you might capture with 2nd curtain and 1/4 sec is people's reactions on your first pre-flash." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:03:03.297" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8441" PostId="6624" Score="1" Text="@MainMa: They can also work in IR, like when using Canon's ST-E2 trigger. But it turns out that in most cameras there already is a device that can be used to generate pulses of light -- their built-in flash. Adding another IR source probably woundn't be worth it." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:08:04.897" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8442" PostId="6640" Text="Does the first photo really use bounce flash? Looking on the shadow under his chin, and reflection of the flash on the glass behind, I'd guess there was just some kind of diffuser (Omnibounce?) used." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:13:33.050" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8443" PostId="6642" Text="I'd like to upvote this but unfortunately I can't because the power of a speedlight is completely pointless in comparison with the ability to bounce the flash." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:16:22.983" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8444" PostId="6673" Score="2" Text="I also got hit by a skier (and have a very similar last photo before impact) the body of the lens was OK (gotta love L series build quality) but the AF was a bit noisy and MF felt gritty, probably due to the shattered UV filter." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:18:11.670" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="8445" PostId="6640" Text="There was a diffuser used, but I think I had the flash pointed up... It's hard to remember..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:23:12.100" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8446" PostId="6615" Text="Wow! Great answers. Thanks everyone." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:24:10.937" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8447" PostId="6642" Text="@che: although the added power is *necessary* to make bounced light practical in all but the tiniest of rooms." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:26:19.653" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8448" PostId="6602" Text="@rfcusa: http://www.lightingdiagrams.com/Creator also works quite well." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:27:21.660" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8449" PostId="6637" Text="If there were some way by which I could vote +100 to what Itai says here, I would!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:37:55.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8450" PostId="6383" Text="I'm marking this one accepted because it seems like a logical first step no matter what physical separation procedure is attempted. I'll report back after we try the separation!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:39:25.263" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8451" PostId="6665" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:43:41.547" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8452" PostId="6685" Score="1" Text="Can you be more specific about &quot;moderate&quot; costs? That could mean a lot of different things to different people." CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:47:01.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8453" PostId="6680" Score="4" Text="+1 The answer is (finally!) in the last paragraph." CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:09:43.610" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8454" PostId="6642" Text="@mattdm: You're right, but you can make better pics with GN 13 bouncable flash (either bu going into tiny room, or by setting ISO 6400) than with fixed front-looking 4800 Ws Profoto head on your hotshoe." CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:09:43.510" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8455" PostId="6665" Text="Thanks, I'm hope I can contribute something!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:12:28.133" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8456" PostId="6680" Text="Thanks; that's what I actually set out to make my answer be, but I got carried way with words. Maybe I'll make that part bold. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:13:17.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8457" PostId="6622" Text="@everyone: I accept that *for a given exposure* you can obtain a better image by using a higher ISO.  But this strikes me as an unusual way to proceed.  Perhaps I'm stuck in old film-days habits when one did not easily change speed (you got one speed per camera body until you changed out the film), so you chose one speed and worked around that.  But in most situations I think there's some latitude in either aperture or shutter speed and it's *that* we work with before increasing the ISO.  Moreover, *caeteris paribus*, increasing the ISO is always a compromise, not an improvement." CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:20:09.217" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8458" PostId="6294" Score="1" Text="I have. #1 is the least messy option because you're working with a 'paste' as opposed to a free-flowing liquid, or dust. Unfortunately the least messy one also takes the longest to work... Sooo... If you're in a hurry, sandpaper works more quickly than the baking soda. I've used sandpaper twice... The first time I used painters tape and taped up *every square inch* of the lens to keep it protected. The second time I just taped off the immediate vicinity of the rust and used compressed air to keep the whole thing clean. If I had to do it again, I'd just use compressed air. Taping is a pain. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:27:29.883" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8459" PostId="6643" Text="@Matt Grum I'm not so sure about that.  Remember, those bits have to encode not only photon intensity, but also wavelength.  I understand the 24 bits to encode all three color channels.  (Please let me know if that's incorrect.)  That's only 8 bits per channel, covering (therefore) only 8 EV.  At the low end the discretization is awful: the jump from 1 to 2 is a full EV.  Thus, we could expect dramatic improvement in shadow detail if we could get beyond a mere 24 bits." CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:28:20.960" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8460" PostId="6637" Score="1" Text="Interesting.  I expected there to be objections, but I thought they would relate to how the data was collected, not the metrics themselves. Surely, for example, the signal-to-noise for a given ISO value has a strong correlation to image quality in environments where you're forced to use higher ISOs?  Similarly, anyone who shoots under (for example) bright stage lights would find a camera with a large dynamic range would improve the image quality in their highlights and/or shadows?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:43:08.577" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="8461" PostId="6624" Text="In TTL mode, it's more complicated than that. This answer really shouldn't be voted up so high....." CreationDate="2011-01-09T17:58:58.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8462" PostId="6643" Score="1" Text="The ADC (analogue to digital converter) only encodes intensity, not wavelength as no bayer interpolation has happened at the time the analogue signal is digitised. I was thinking that the 24 bits were for colour output at a later stage of the image pipeline but that's only 8 bits per pixel, which is surely too low for a MF camera" CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:02:59.923" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8463" PostId="6622" Score="1" Text="@whuber It's a strange way to think about it maybe, and that's probably why people are having a hard time accepting the concept. I disagree with your last point *increasing the ISO is always a compromise, not an improvement* when you've reached the point where you're shooting wide open and can't increase the shutter speed as it would introduce subject blur, then increasing the ISO is a good measure to mitigate read noise and digitisation noise, which I see as an improvement." CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:06:52.747" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8464" PostId="6690" Text="@gerikson so we should all embrace the G factor? those of us at least that don't have any legacy bodies or non digital camera that is." CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:18:48.340" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8465" PostId="6643" Text="@Matt: I believe it was a Leica sensor that I was reading about that output 24-bit per pixel RAW images. The total number of photons hitting each pixel is entirely dependent upon exposure time, and MF cameras are superb at long-exposure, low ISO (50-80) shots. I don't know where the 85k number comes from, but that sounds a little arbitrary. The benefit of 24-bpp RAW, as whuber stated, is that FAR more levels are dedicated to the shadows and far more headroom is allocated for highlights (without clipping) than with 16-bit RAW." CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:21:28.243" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8466" PostId="6643" Text="The tone curve of 24-bpp sensors is attenuated more than others to maximize the headroom in the highlights. It is also attenuated such that it maximizes shadow dynamic range. I'll see if I can find the articles I was reading for reference. (It may be that this sensor is not actually available on the market, and was rather just a prototype or research concept, now that I think about it.)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T18:23:38.053" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8468" PostId="6622" Text="@Matt Grum: Looking more closely, I see that you used &quot;auto contrast&quot; on both images. Correct? Surely they looked very different (the ISO 100 image being very dark) before applying that change... Yes??? If not, then I'm deeply confused by what looks to me to be a contradiction with what I would expect, and want to understand before I comment further. If that's correct, though, then I stand by my statement that this is the same &quot;process&quot;, but different *processing*. " CreationDate="2011-01-09T19:26:53.707" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8469" PostId="6622" Text="Either way, the results you show are interesting, and I will likely attempt to reproduce them myself, to see what more I can learn (and perhaps subsequently teach?) from this. " CreationDate="2011-01-09T19:28:24.110" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8470" PostId="6646" Score="2" Text="I don't have any experience with either of those packages, but I will say that noise reduction in LR3 is significantly better than it was in LR2. It is very good in the latest version and that improvement alone makes the upgrade from 2 to 3 worth it in my opinion." CreationDate="2011-01-09T19:48:14.787" UserId="2873" />
  <row Id="8471" PostId="6698" Text="Thanks Don. Your setup sounds ideal. I guess I can live with holding the AE/AF-L button when needed. Not as convenient but gets the job done. Maybe Nikon will be nice down the line and enable a setting like that in a firmware update :)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T19:50:36.053" UserId="3121" />
  <row Id="8472" PostId="99" Score="3" Text="On the D3000, this trick lets you compare two pictures after zooming in." CreationDate="2011-01-09T20:00:42.817" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8473" PostId="6676" Text="This could be useful as a trap focus mode, where you pre-focus and hold the shutter down. The camera will fire once your subject comes into focus." CreationDate="2011-01-09T20:09:45.543" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8474" PostId="6700" Score="1" Text="Thanks for reply - we must be looking at different data, this link...&#xA;&#xA;http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/281%7C0/(appareil2)/619%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Canon&#xA;&#xA;...says 11EV (20D) Vs 11.7EV (7D) - even 13EVs would sound like a fair improvement." CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:08:56.117" UserId="3131" />
  <row Id="8475" PostId="6629" Text="He he ... you say &quot;exactly 3 things&quot; and then give a list of 6!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:11:33.347" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="8476" PostId="6677" Text="...and a great story to tell when you're surrounded by other photographers swapping 'this one time...' stories. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:14:25.027" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8477" PostId="6624" Text="@mattdm: Well, it's still a correct answer. Popup flash fires because it's used as a signal for the SB600." CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:20:51.137" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8478" PostId="6383" Text="Good luck to you :)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:25:28.453" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8479" PostId="6622" Text="@Matt You're right, but the reason in that situation for increasing ISO has nothing to do with whether high ISO is better for image quality: the reason is related to controlling exposure duration.  I find it harder to imagine situations (although perhaps you can suggest some) where the photographer has found a range of apertures and shutter speeds that will create the right exposure for the intended image and reasons, &quot;Because I have the latitude to decrease aperture and/or exposure time, I think I'll increase my ISO so the picture comes out better.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:26:07.883" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8480" PostId="6624" Text="@mattdm - What, specifically is incorrect about the answer? You suggested additional information, which is good, but my answer isn't actually wrong. The popup does fire for this purpose." CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:46:32.297" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8481" PostId="6699" Text="Any current full frame camera, plus quite a few APS-C ones as well, will blow the doors off the 20D for dynamic range (amongst other things) at this point. As Itai noted, the K-5 is an APS-C which exceeds the DR of medium format and the Nikon D7000 isn't far behind. The 20D is a good camera, but the current lineup of all major players exceeds it." CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:51:15.383" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8482" PostId="6700" Text="@Steve - DR is only one aspect. High ISO performance, shutter speeds, frame rates, and a lot more go into the difference if you compare the 20D to something like the 7D. Having said that, if you aren't feeling limited by the 20D and you enjoy what you see, then why change? Any and all upgrades should be compelling, otherwise it's just an never-ending cycle." CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:53:08.973" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8483" PostId="6700" Text="@Steve - You just chose a poor example. DxOMark shows you the ranking of all sensors, so you do not even have to guess which camera ranks higher in any metric. Here is the link of cameras ordered by dynamic range: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Sensor-rankings/(type)/usecase_landscape" CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:00:34.200" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8484" PostId="6700" Text="Thanks John - I pretty much only feel limited by the 20D in terms of DR, but all the extras you mention would be bonuses. I'm really trying to get a feel for whether the 7D would rectify the only big issue I have." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:03:24.293" UserId="3131" />
  <row Id="8485" PostId="6667" Score="5" Text="I'm chompin' at the bit to get to 2000 reputation simply so I can edit your questions for grammar and spelling, kacalapy! ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:08:17.817" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8486" PostId="6700" Score="1" Text="@Itai - thanks, that link is much clearer - it does just show that the increase in DR in the canon range over 6 years is minimal, especially when you look at the same graph for Nikon and Pentax." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:10:15.113" UserId="3131" />
  <row Id="8487" PostId="6624" Score="2" Text="@John Cavan - The slave flash isn't detecting the *light* of the master; it's detecting the digital signal which happens to be carried in the light. This is an important distinction because in &quot;dumb&quot; slave mode flashes *do* respond to just the light itself. Additionally, there's the more pedantic distinction between the preflash (where the signal strength is measured and which happens before the shutter is open) and the control signal (which actually happens at the beginning of the exposure) -- that is, it's literally wrong to say that the SB600 is being fired by the preflash." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:12:02.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8488" PostId="6658" Text="@Jay ... yeah I just improved my sample a bit ... had to throw away about 40-50 shots just to fall on one OK one ... tracking babies is a nightmare." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:29:18.003" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="8489" PostId="6660" Score="1" Text="A curtain flash sync sounds like a fantastic way of improving my results!" CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:29:58.127" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="8490" PostId="6662" Text="This is a fantastic shot ... thanks for sharing" CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:30:25.180" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="8491" PostId="6667" Text="+1 To help you get there. What in particular is so wrong?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:44:08.097" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8492" PostId="6700" Text="@Canon Are you seeing this, please bring out a 1DsIV that wins, thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:54:24.450" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="8493" PostId="6639" Text="That's irrelevant, since he isn't going to buy the camera on your old cell phone. While I'm not disputing that there are quality differences between cameras, I think the image quality between newly purchased cameras isn't drastic enough to be the single issue on which a purchase hinges." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:54:52.610" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="8494" PostId="6624" Text="@mattdm - I think the distinction in the context of this question is pretty irrelevant. The popup fires because it's controlling the slave flash, what it does during that cycle is detail. Like I said, your additional information is enlightening, and very useful, but the flash from the popup is, ultimately, directing the slave to fire." CreationDate="2011-01-09T22:55:03.403" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8495" PostId="6033" Text="In fact, by &quot;over exposing&quot; you may have actually optimised the amount of information you captured in the raw file by exposing to the right. Did the histogram clip in the whites at all?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:04:55.593" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="8496" PostId="6704" Score="2" Text="That's weird. You'll probably have better results on http://superuser.com/ ." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:07:35.630" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8497" PostId="6643" Text="@jrista The 85k figure comes from *&quot;A practical guide to lightcurve photometry and analysis&quot;* Brian Warner, Alan W. Harris. Modern sensors might be capable of more, but not 200x more to warrant 24bpp. The number of photons hitting each pixel is dependant on exposure time yes, but the election well depth is limited so extra photons don't register after saturation. " CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:10:29.497" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8498" PostId="6643" Text="Unless the DR of the sensor exceeds 24 stops (unlikely) then you don't need a tonecurve as you easily store all the shadow and highlight information that physics will allow, and still have bits to spare! Imagine the perfect sensor, one that simply counts photons. If you're only receiving in the region of one hundred thousand photons before saturation then you're never going to record a value greater than 100,000 so the other bits will be empty. When you add noise into the equation you're going to get about 16bits of information and 8bits of noise..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:17:22.270" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8499" PostId="6622" Text="@lindes Yes I used auto-contrast in Photoshop to normalize the data to make it easier to visualise (the ISO100 picture was darker). Normalization is common when comparing experimental data, although if I were measuring signal to noise ratio this step wouldn't be necessary and I could have the same *prcoessing* as you put it." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:25:28.927" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8500" PostId="6629" Text="LOL, that's what I get for editing part of the list, but not all of it..." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:28:38.120" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8501" PostId="6622" Text="@whuber People can't seem to separate the ISO setting from the shutter/aperture. I'm not saying if you increase ISO *and then decrease the aperture/shutter time* you will get a better picture, I'm saying if you increase ISO *and keep the aperture/shutter the same* you will get a better picture (provided you don't clip the highlights). These two statements are very different. Reread my answer I state this quite clearly in the TL;DR summary: *To minimise noise, get as much light as you possible can down the lens using the aperture and shutter speed setting then increase ISO as far as you can.*" CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:29:38.647" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8502" PostId="6700" Text="@Itai with regards to full frame vs. non-full frame, DXO mark measure dynamic range at the base ISO and this figure is dominated by read noise, which is how the newer crops like the K-5 achieve 14 stops. Dynamic range in low light at high ISO is dominated by photon noise, here the larger sensor has an advantage by capturing more photons, so you'd expect to see full frame (and MF) with an advantage here. Shame DXO mark don't measure this." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:38:31.667" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8503" PostId="6624" Text="Anyways, I think your answer is more enlightening, but up until today my more simple explanation appeared to be the only one. So, if you're wondering at the up votes, that'd probably be why. Had yours been there at the start, I'd suspect it would be different." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:38:50.263" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8504" PostId="6622" Score="4" Text="Matt, it may be that everyone is misunderstanding what you are trying to explain. I just tried a couple example shots, and ISO 100 *always* beats out ISO 1600 when both settings use the correct shutter &amp; aperture to produce a correct exposure. I've created an example shot to try and demonstrate both points of view. Please see my answer for the example shot, exposure and post processing details, and further discussion. Perhaps we can get everyone on the same page." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:44:48.073" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8505" PostId="6630" Text="I'm not quite sure I get the distinction between Camera and Lens for these items. The Aperture is controlled by the camera, but is physically (and optically) part of the lens. Focus is controlled by the camera body (in AF) but is very much dependent on both body and lens for actuation and control of focus." CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:51:48.243" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="8506" PostId="6708" Text="Could you be more specific on how you calibrated your monitor?" CreationDate="2011-01-09T23:52:02.863" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="8508" PostId="6622" Text="@jrista I don't believe there is such a thing as the *correct exposure*, if I increase ISO by a stop, don't blow the highlights, and then apply -1 exposure compensation in post, does that mean my exposure was *incorrect* compared to the exposure I would have got by not increasing ISO? I think people are having difficulty understanding that you can set ISO separately from shutter aperture. When you keep the shutter/aperture the same and increase ISO you actually get slightly lower noise. Try it. This demonstrates that ISO doesn't cause noise on it's own." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:07:46.460" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8509" PostId="6622" Text="Btw can't see your answer at the moment for some reason... " CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:08:38.703" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8510" PostId="6705" Text="It seems a typical flash takes 4x AA. How many sets of 4 do you have on you when out at an event at night? " CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:10:03.810" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8511" PostId="6708" Score="1" Text="@Alan, sure; question edited." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:11:05.837" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8512" PostId="6622" Text="Sorry, added more content to it than I originally expected. Its visible now." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:13:18.767" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8513" PostId="6709" Text="+1. In my particular case unfortunately, I'm not 100% confident in that, since I rely on others to print, and a print that doesn't match could have had color problems at many places along the way." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:13:46.147" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8514" PostId="6711" Score="2" Text="This. I always wanted to spend an afternoon on this site (or copy the formulas into a spreadsheet) and make quick reference cards to help me learn what to expect w.r.t. DOF." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:15:42.993" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8516" PostId="6712" Text="	&#xA;I think you've misrepsented my point of view by saying *Use the highest ISO possible to maximize saturation (and therefor minimize noise) without clipping highlights.* my point of view is: **To minimise noise, get as much light as you possibly can down the lens using the aperture and shutter speed settings. And then increase ISO as far as you can (without clipping highlights).** I don't know how I can state that any clearer, suggestions would be welcome" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:18:19.183" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8517" PostId="6622" Score="2" Text="@Matt: Regarding whether increasing ISO generates noise, I do indeed think that is the case. Whenever you amplify a signal, you are also amplifying the base noise level in that signal. If a sensor's native read level is ISO 100, and you amplify the signal to support ISO 1600, you are amplifying ALL of the signal, including the base noise level generated by the device itself (in this case a digital sensor.) When aiming for the same &quot;exposure&quot;, a lower ISO setting with either a wider aperture or longer shutter WILL result in LESS noise, not more. See my answer for a demonstration of that." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:22:47.947" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8518" PostId="6712" Text="Your example shows three shots. Going from bad to good in terms of noise you've got *Low ISO, fast shutter* - very noisy, *High ISO, fast shutter* - noisy, *Low ISO, slow shutter*, clean. Given that the only consistent difference between the noisy and clean shots is the shutter speed, doesn't it seem logical to conclude that it is the shutter speed, not ISO100 that has lead to a cleaner image? This also fits with the theory with respect to photon noise." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:24:40.303" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8519" PostId="6622" Score="4" Text="I think, what I take from your answer and comments so far, is that when you are trying to use a *specific* shutter and aperture, if using a low ISO results in an underexposed image, and using a higher ISO results in a properly exposed image, using the higher ISO is better. Additionally, if you pick a specific shutter and aperture, pushing the ISO to its highest *without clipping highlights*, then reducing exposure in post-processing, will result in the clearest image with the lowest noise *for the shutter and aperture you chose to shoot at*. If I understand correctly, then I totally agree!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:25:47.930" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8520" PostId="6711" Score="1" Text="So I should get closer to my daughter to make the background more blurry? " CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:26:42.000" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8521" PostId="6712" Text="btw +1 for taking the time to investigate this rather than just dismissing it! I think an important point which I failed to mention is that an advantage of using a lower ISO is that you can let in more light before you clip highlights, thus enabling you to reduce noise (for landscapes etc.) but I still claim noise is proportional to the amount of light you let in, not the ISO." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:28:18.227" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8522" PostId="6711" Score="3" Text="No, you should spend some time on http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:29:36.970" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8523" PostId="6711" Score="2" Text="@kacalapy, that will help, but spend some time on http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html. Really! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:33:41.877" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8524" PostId="6709" Score="1" Text="Yes, once someone else is doing the printing, you really can't know exactly what they're doing.  Having said that, I've found that the more reputable labs will give you the option to print using the exact color profile you give them with the image, rather than making their own adjustments.  Take a look here for the adjustments labs can make: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6453/what-adjustments-do-photo-labs-apply-to-a-digital-image-when-printing-it" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:36:35.367" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8525" PostId="6624" Text="I apologize if I sounded bitter or jealous about the votes. I didn't mean it that way at all." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:38:54.313" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8526" PostId="6624" Text="Anyway, I still take exception to &quot;fired by the preflash&quot; and &quot;detects the light of the master and when it does, it fires&quot;. But it's *friendly* exception, I promise!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:39:38.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8527" PostId="6712" Score="1" Text="@Matt: I think you just nailed it all on the head: Noise is proportional to the amount of light you let in! Now that you've stated that, I entirely understand your perspective here. I think what I stated is correct, if more round about, in that if you have no option but to expose with &quot;less light&quot;, using a higher ISO will produce a less noisy picture. I will have to experiment with pushing ISO to its highest without clipping, and reduce exposure during post-processing, and see the results. I am still not sure if that would produce an image with less noise than the lowest ISO setting possible." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:40:58.557" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8528" PostId="6622" Text="@jrista *1st reply* amplifying the signal amplifies the noise in the signal, yes. But ISO amplification is [usually] applied before read out, and during read out extra noise gets added. So for the same signal, amplifying it before readout means the readout noise is proportionally less. When you don't amplify the signal before readout (i.e. use ISO100) then when you brighten the image on a computer you amplify the signal (with it's inherent noise) **and** the read noise. So you get more noise overall by amplifying digitally rather than in the analogue domain." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:41:37.660" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8529" PostId="6622" Text="I agree that if you lower ISO and use a bigger aperture/longer shutter will give less noise, **but you've gone and changed two variables** (amount of light and ISO) and then attributed the lowering of noise to lowering ISO. I attribute the lowering of noise to the other variable - amount of light - and provided an example that demonstrates this." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:42:42.573" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8531" PostId="6624" Text="@mattdm - LOL, no prob, I didn't read it that way it was just an explanation. My answer is hardly detailed, hence the up vote I made on yours. However, I do think for most people the simple answer suffices, as evidenced by two answer deletes and an acceptance. Having said that, I think he accepted too fast." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:49:05.643" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8532" PostId="6712" Text="@jrista That's essentially it. The other key thing is that while **photon noise** is proportional to how much light you let in, the insidious **read noise** can cause overall noise to increase when you drop ISO! For proof of this look at your second and third pictures, the amount of light coming in is the same but the ISO100 pane is clearly noisier! What you've said isn't wrong you're just approaching from a different angle. I hope both answers will contribute to people's understanding of the subject. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:51:19.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8533" PostId="6711" Text="@Reid when I have time I plan to rearrange the DOF equations so that you can enter what DOF you want and it will tell you what subject distance and what lens you need to pull it off!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:53:29.447" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8534" PostId="6667" Score="2" Text="I'm just givin' you a hard time... kinda. ;-) On this post you spelled circle 'cirlce,' and that same sentence needs a comma. I can't help it, stuff like that just jumps out at me... :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:54:54.973" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8535" PostId="6667" Score="1" Text="If it's any consolation, I edit my own posts pretty ruthlessly as well. I just went back to do some grammar nitpicking on a few of my own answers..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T00:59:12.157" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8536" PostId="6656" Text="can we have a question like &quot;what are the different types of lighting&quot; and have done with it ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:00:06.527" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8537" PostId="6712" Score="1" Text="@Matt: Regarding the third image, I think it is important to point out that the &quot;original&quot; noise level was the same as the first image. The reason the third image looks so much more noisy is because its EV was increased by a whopping four stops in Lightroom. That digitally &quot;amplified&quot; the noise that was there, making it far more apparent. Barring post-process EV adjustment, the visible noise level on the third image is no higher than that of the first...however it is terribly underexposed. The read noise only becomes apparent when &quot;amplifying&quot; it during post processing." CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:08:11.747" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8538" PostId="6702" Score="1" Text="If there is a power socket near where you shoot you can also build yourself a power adapter with a switching power supply. Great recycle times and no batteries needed anymore :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:11:55.133" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="8539" PostId="6710" Text="Forget about the dog's rump... its ears and nose are even blurry :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:30:12.540" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8540" PostId="6667" Text="@Jay - &quot;I'm chompin' at the bit to get to 2000 reputation simply so I can edit your questions for grammar and spelling, kacalapy! ;-)&quot; We have a case study here - @kacalapy is very prosperous in gaining rep points just by asking questions. It is possible that if you chose this route, you will reach the 2000 target faster!  ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:38:16.947" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8543" PostId="6660" Text="Excellent answer - I've usually heard it called [rear-curtain sync](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_synchronization#Rear-curtain_sync) (and I need more practice with it :)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:53:11.363" UserId="3" />
  <row Id="8544" PostId="6622" Score="1" Text="I think everyone that is criticizing the answer should read my comment, specifically &quot;you should state that explicitly as it will probably confuse&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:55:53.860" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="8545" PostId="6717" Score="5" Text="Very biased and ultimately unhelpful answer in the grand scheme of things. There are many uses for macro lenses, that require differing working distances and different background blur. Without knowing the OP's specific needs, this answer is highly subjective and biased, and doesn't provide much value to the community. I would add more information and explain why the 100mm macro is better." CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:58:09.427" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8546" PostId="6660" Text="Rear curtain sync is another term for it. I've heard both terms used, although I hear second-curtain sync more often from sports photographers. Either way, its a great technique. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:59:44.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8547" PostId="6719" Score="1" Text="Looks like we have the small, medium, and large version of the macro question, all basically saying the same thing... Kind of funny how that works out sometimes..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:02:10.583" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8548" PostId="4900" Text="&quot;the FD 300 does not have magnetic read/write capabilities.&quot;   http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/faqs/faq1043.shtml#g7 (Item 12 in General Information)  DAMMIT" CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:02:40.707" UserId="1078" />
  <row Id="8549" PostId="6711" Text="@Matt It would be great if there were a place to enter distance info and have it tell me what lens I need. This would be a great learning tool." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:19:09.983" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8550" PostId="6715" Text="LOL. I understand in theory your suggestions. But, in practice, the lens is about a foot away from my daughter. I am getting background blur but on the same note and close enough to her that she can reach out and get her greasy fingers on the lens. I can not, practically, get any closer. This leads me to believe I require the 50mm f/1.4 to get the shots I am looking for." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:24:50.073" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8551" PostId="6715" Score="2" Text="Yeah, sounds like you need a longer focal length. The 50mm f/1.4 on a cropped sensor is probably going to be ideal. Some of the best portraits I've ever seen were taken with the EF 85mm f/1.2 lens on a full-frame camera...the background blur is simply stunning at that focal length. A 50mm lens on APS-C is effectively about 81mm, so it should produce similar pictures." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:28:14.813" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8552" PostId="6713" Text="@Reid if the dog was closer to the lens than my daughter was then his breath would fog the lens. I was at max a little over a foot away from her. I have since got even closer to her as practice with a x-mas tree behind her and got a nice effect. but that close a distance is very impractical. I will not be able to get that close in public settings to people I barley know. Can you suggest a long Nikon lens with high aperture?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:28:53.987" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8553" PostId="6700" Score="1" Text="@Matt - I know and they do. The trouble I always have with DxOMark is that it boils down each thing to one number. If you compare the DR of the K-5, S5 Pro and 1Ds Mark III you can that the K-5 is superior at DR at ALL ISO sensitivities. This not the case of the K-5 vs S5 Pro. See for yourself: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/676%7C0/(appareil2)/511%7C0/(appareil3)/436%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Pentax/(brand2)/Fujifilm/(brand3)/Canon - Click on the Dynamic Range tab to see what I am referring to." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:32:41.097" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8554" PostId="6667" Text="By that token, it takes hundreds of Rep. points to to the point you can create bokeh." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:38:29.033" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8555" PostId="6716" Score="5" Text="You might want to provide some more information about what your goals are. Different macro lenses serve different purposes, and any time you ask for the &quot;best&quot; of something, you are bound to evoke a lot of down votes. Try to clean up your question with more detail and less bias, and you should get plenty of useful answers." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:42:21.260" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8556" PostId="6667" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: I think it's worth commending @kacalapy for coming a long way. When he first started posting things the grammar/spelling was outrageous. After people left comments, it's obvious he has started giving more thought and care to his questions. At this point, they are more than bearable. So... @kacalapy... thank you for responding well to constructive criticism from your peers." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:42:38.233" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8557" PostId="6700" Text="@Itai - Fuji has to be doing something weird, that curve is bizarre! Most comparisons I've ever run have had a generally straight line down the DR graph as ISO increases. So, how the heck does Fuji go up before going down?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:43:12.317" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8558" PostId="6721" Score="2" Text="&quot;White&quot; is about as subjective as it gets. ;P I could probably string off 20 different variations of white right here and now..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:44:10.797" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8559" PostId="6667" Score="1" Text="@Tom: NO! Perfection only!! ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:47:24.723" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8560" PostId="6700" Text="@Steve - the 7D is a very good camera, I know several people that use it and it performs very well. Having said that, when it comes to dynamic range and high ISO performance in an APS-C camera, then Pentax and Nikon are clearly head and shoulders above Canon. Is it worth a brand switch? I doubt it, the 7D is very good, so I'd expect that you'd seldom, if ever, really see the difference." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:49:11.567" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8561" PostId="6700" Text="@John - I guess you are not familiar with Fuji's SuperCCD SR. It is an amazing piece of technology that became legendary among wedding photographers. The sensor has two sizes of photosites and one of each size is used for each pixel. The smaller one is less sensitive and catches highlights, the larger is for most other details. Since they clip at different points, the interaction is odd. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_CCD (The S5 Pro uses the SR II)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:50:30.250" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8562" PostId="6700" Text="@John - It depends on your perception. I do agree that the 7D is a good camera but I saw the difference very clearly. I had the 7D for a one month review period (http://www.neocamera.com/review.php?id=169) and have had the K-5 for a little more. Both great but the DR is easily noticeable when shooting outdoors. The 7D's less conservative metering does not help it either for that. But if I had to shoot sports, the 7D would be better due to its continuous autofocus (AF-C). I still use a 50D for action and a K-5 for landscape and architecture." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:56:49.253" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8563" PostId="6714" Score="1" Text="I have to agree with Jay. Without a quality printer that you can trust to produce a valid print, you'll need to buy something with known colors to compare with. A color checker card is probably going to be far cheaper than a professional printer. I use the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport myself. Its small, $100, and has three sets of color swatches: a gray card, the standard color checker patches, and a set of white balance color patches (for using something like the Lightroom white balance picker on.) Its a VERY useful buy, and will also serve to validate your calibration." CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:57:51.453" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8564" PostId="6421" Text="i'm gonna have to pick this as the answer as it is impractical for me to attach tripod or monopod to my two sling cameras. and although i'm not likely to afford it, it seems a pro-lighting system setup is the only way to go." CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:02:45.693" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="8565" PostId="6714" Text="That's the card I use too. Unlike some of the 'peripheral' stuff I've bought for my cameras over the years, the Passport has been money very well spent for me..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:03:57.057" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8566" PostId="6667" Text="No worries. I think to get to peers my photos need to catch up some. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:07:29.417" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8567" PostId="6710" Text="i suspect you use crop frame rather than a full frame?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:08:59.263" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="8568" PostId="6705" Score="1" Text="According to the [SB600 manual](http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-600.pdf) (Page 19), lithium batteries have the worst recycle times of any battery chemistry, though the highest number of full-power flashes." CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:26:10.567" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8569" PostId="6705" Score="1" Text="(Which seems counterintuitive to me, since I thought lithium was supposed to have low internal resistance.)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:31:52.560" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8570" PostId="6710" Score="5" Text="By the way, the DOF still is rather thin - your background my not have the blur you want, but its still &quot;clearly&quot; out of focus." CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:47:01.723" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8571" PostId="6719" Score="1" Text="+1 - Though everything supports an extension tube if you're willing to go DIY. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T04:25:57.260" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8572" PostId="6708" Text="I've got to admit, I don't think you can be entirely sure without something in hand and that's probably going to be a buck or two... :)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T04:28:54.857" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8573" PostId="6711" Text="aside from dofmaster.com/dofjs.html should I look at anything else? It seems that the entire site is just the DOF calculator." CreationDate="2011-01-10T04:32:47.910" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8574" PostId="6719" Text="And bellows and the Canon 500d magnifier..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T04:44:47.923" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8575" PostId="6723" Text="Thanks for the simple and clear explanation. In addition to learning by way of these controlled shots where I can manipulate my daughter's distance from me and from the background, I am also trying to get a feel for what I would need to do to get shots of a subject if I was in an audience or crowd and wanted to get a shot of a particular person in a crowd of people (like on a dance floor) such that the individual is sharp and the rest of the composition is blurred forcing viewers eyes to focus on the subject. Seems like I am trying to overcome physics." CreationDate="2011-01-10T04:55:30.900" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8576" PostId="6721" Text="Yeah, I know... Something like printer paper, or something like that might work well... Without buying anything... Well, it's a tall order." CreationDate="2011-01-10T04:57:13.040" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8577" PostId="6719" Text="A bullet point to add to the MP-E 65: It's *only* a macro lens -- some call it &quot;manual focus&quot;, but really, that mis-categorizes it.  The &quot;focus ring&quot; doesn't change the focus so much as the magnification/extension (the lens gets significantly longer in physical length -- see left hand side of the second image at http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/canon-mp-e-65mm-1-5x-macro-lens-review.aspx for comparison between extended (5x) and retracted (1x)).  All the others listed in @jrista's answer will also focus to infinity, and thus are usable for other things. 65 won't focus beyond 1x." CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:02:32.267" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8578" PostId="6713" Score="5" Text="@kacalpy, having taking a lot of pictures of my daughters with a 40mm lens (on an APS-C camera), I think it's unlikely that you were quite as close as you remember in this particular shot." CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:12:40.997" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8579" PostId="6705" Text="@Evan Krall -- Oh hey. I hadn't seen your comment here before posting my answer referencing the manual. You should have made a full answer, I think. Anyway, on Lithium: maybe that's with lithium rechargeable batteries, not primary cells?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:30:48.827" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8580" PostId="6033" Text="@Nick I think only a tiny bit around the shoulder area. The ability of the 5d mark 2 to capture rich RAW information is amazing. I don't remember being able to push a full stop on my old 450d, without side effects. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:33:22.457" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="8581" PostId="6703" Score="4" Text="Is there a particular reason this should be limited to web sites? What about books, or, for that matter, good tips put *right here* as an answer?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:35:35.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8582" PostId="6704" Score="1" Text="To make my earlier comment stronger: this is a computer problem, not a camera problem." CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:36:33.113" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8583" PostId="6725" Score="1" Text="Having an SB-600, the information is pretty on par with my personal usage (attempting to take into account the fact that I rarely do a full pop)." CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:36:50.070" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8584" PostId="6694" Text="Man, that is one ugly contraption. Too bad they don't have something that would just slide over the built-in flash." CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:37:31.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8585" PostId="6694" Text="Hmmmmm.... http://amasci.com/amateur/irgoggl.html#diy" CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:41:12.233" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8586" PostId="6033" Text="Indeed. One day I'll own a full frame, I hope." CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:44:47.130" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="8587" PostId="6717" Score="2" Text="Hi Joost -- we generally ask that answers provide a bit more context than this, and explain why it is better, under what circumstances, and also share a bit of detailed experience with us. Links to data supporting your opinions are also welcome." CreationDate="2011-01-10T06:02:11.647" UserId="94" />
  <row Id="8588" PostId="6622" Text="@Matt Grum: As I'm sitting here planning out and setting up my test shots, to be able to talk further about this, I've just had a realization that may explain why your answer seems &quot;wrong&quot; to me: You say to &quot;Change one variable at a time&quot;, and I believe you think that's what you're doing -- but I disagree: using &quot;auto exposure&quot; is introducing a second variable!  That feature adjusts the image in a *variable* way, depending on the input data.  When you give it what I would call an under-exposed image, it amplifies everything, *including shadow noise*.  I'll say more when I update my answer." CreationDate="2011-01-10T06:15:29.540" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8589" PostId="6690" Text="Unfortunately it's not like there's a lot of choice if you want the latest optics! OTOH there *are* a lot of older lenses that work well with older film cameras, and there are a ton of older film cameras that work with G lenses too. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T06:16:05.913" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8590" PostId="6723" Text="This is good advice, I often recompose a shot of my child so that the background is further away (if the shallow depth of field is what I'm going for)." CreationDate="2011-01-10T06:16:17.523" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8591" PostId="6622" Text="For digital cameras, the ISO has very little to do with the noise. It's a simple matter of the mechanics of the digital sensor.  It's present in all forms of digital and analog electrical sensors.  Using a lower ISO means that the gating on the sensor is calibrated for a higher amount of light coming in through the lens.  The noise is there at all levels of ISO, you just have to get proper exposure, regardless of the ISO setting to over ride the errors in the sensory array.&#xA;When properly exposed, lower ISO DO produce a cleaner shot because of the lower margin of error in the sensors &amp; firmware" CreationDate="2011-01-10T06:26:46.907" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="8592" PostId="6656" Text="Now where's the fun in that? :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T07:27:42.353" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8593" PostId="6712" Text="I should have stated, when I'm talking about noise I'm referring to the **signal to noise ratio**. This is the most common measure of noise, used in signal processing, audio engineering and digital photography. In the third image the noise is low, yes, but because the signal is very low due to underexposure, the signal to noise ratio is very bad." CreationDate="2011-01-10T09:29:11.237" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8594" PostId="6622" Text="@whuber It's a tricky issue but in trying to keep everything else the same I try to maintain a constant image brightness, otherwise that is another variable that is changing. If you don't apply the auto-levels (normalization) and measure the *signal to noise ratio* as is done in most scientific settings, the results are the same. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T09:33:54.057" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8595" PostId="6671" Text="To be honest, I didn't try. As autofocus didn't work (first WTF moment), I tried manual which was very hard to move (2nd WTF) - to not break anything inside or damage the lens even more I just stopped touching it. I could imagine it having a slight tilt-shift effect - but I don't know how long the focusring would hold when used as a &quot;self-made&quot; tilt-shift lens.." CreationDate="2011-01-10T10:25:51.130" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="8596" PostId="6692" Score="1" Text="You're talking about a tilt-shift lens, which are very expensive when manufactured by Canon. The focus hard to move and I don't know how long the focus ring will hold when used in this awkward position, hence it is a pretty bad tild-shift lens without focus." CreationDate="2011-01-10T10:27:53.970" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="8597" PostId="6657" Score="1" Text="Cute kid though :)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T10:53:31.823" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="8598" PostId="4670" Text="&quot;If there are files that do not stand as photos themselves, such as panorama pieces or HDR brackets, then they go in their own directory called 'Sources'.&quot; Stacks are very useful for this" CreationDate="2011-01-10T11:10:56.570" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8599" PostId="6596" Text="I got it, £70 :D" CreationDate="2011-01-10T11:50:20.293" UserId="2533" />
  <row Id="8600" PostId="6732" Score="6" Text="Discussion of unreleased products [is discouraged by the community](http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/q/130/21). Depending on which rumours you believe, there will be a replacement announced this week, this year, or it won't be released with full frame cameras being phased out. Questions that have a limited time span run the risk as being closed as off topic by the wider community." CreationDate="2011-01-10T12:16:52.213" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8601" PostId="6731" Score="4" Text="It would be unwise to buy a camera just on the basis of a single attribute, and you may get more helpful answers by editing the question to cover information as to what sort of thing you're going to be using the camera for - do you want a long zoom for astrophotography? Do you have a budget in mind? Do you have any weight or size requirements?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T12:22:22.257" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8602" PostId="6732" Score="1" Text="I think it should be possible to ask this question in general (without referring to any specific rumours or camera models) without breaking the terms of the site. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T12:49:09.123" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8603" PostId="6702" Text="With 1000 photos a night I'd be concerned first about heat buildup and then the capacity of the batteries." CreationDate="2011-01-10T12:55:45.387" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8604" PostId="6734" Text="Thank you, I think I will invest in a mark II very soon then." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:03:47.317" UserId="3149" />
  <row Id="8605" PostId="6735" Text="Yes it what I was thinking about. I'm shooting with old Nikkormat cameras and a 5D (mark I). I found in the Mark II everything I need but I still want to wait a little bit for the price." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:04:09.080" UserId="3149" />
  <row Id="8606" PostId="6622" Score="2" Text="@Matt Whether or not a sense of resolution emerges in this thread, I want to thank you for raising this issue in a knowledgeable and thoughtful way, because the discussion is informative and helpful.  Readers may perhaps perceive disagreement where in fact there is none because (as @jrista's contribution makes visible by example) we may be describing the same phenomena in different ways.  Your main point seems to be to challenge standard wisdom that low ISO is always better.  I am grateful you have encouraged us to reconsider that." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:41:09.313" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8607" PostId="6734" Text="Adding to that - I bought the EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS last year, just at the same time Canon announced the MkII version of this lens. At the time, I got it in a really great price, so possible price fall was a little concern. When the new one actually started shipping, it happened that instead of pushing the old one's price down, Canon raised the NkII price by $500. I can probably sell my copy today w/o any loss." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:45:12.983" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8608" PostId="6730" Score="1" Text="www.dealextreme.com and eBay have lots of cheap, aftermarket N3 compatible triggers for the fraction of the Canon OEM price. For what a remote essentially is, I'd get the aftermarket one twice before shelling the money for an OEM remote." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:47:52.153" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8609" PostId="6730" Text="BTW, the Rebel series has a standard 2.5mm stereo connector instead of the N3. This makes it possible to easily build a DIY remote from cheap available parts." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:50:52.337" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8610" PostId="6731" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! Rowland is right - make some targeted edits to your question and we'd be more than happy to help." CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:51:03.507" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8611" PostId="6733" Score="3" Text="Interesting related article: common ways to make a first wedding a disaster http://www.lensrentals.com/news/2010.07.25/fwigtew-and-other-first-wedding-acronymss" CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:54:44.890" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8612" PostId="6703" Text="Short answer: Don't do it. See this similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3467/how-hard-would-be-photographing-a-wedding-with-just-prime-lens" CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:57:25.730" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8613" PostId="6732" Text="Don't we have a general question on &quot;should I wait&quot; somewhere?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T13:59:35.383" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8614" PostId="6731" Score="2" Text="Not to mention, &quot;zoom&quot; is all relative. You can have high zoom cameras that don't have a very long focal distance. Are you interested in getting stuff that's far away or the capability to bring things both closer and farther away?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:04:47.030" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8615" PostId="6705" Text="@kacalapy, I don't shoot much with flash, not events, so I can't say. Sorry." CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:05:51.023" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8616" PostId="6732" Text="I agree that there might be some general advice here. With Pentax, for example, in recent years, prices have tended to drop a few months after a new product is released and hit bottom just *before* the replacement comes out. Once the replacement is on the shelves, prices for the old model tend to hold or even go up as the last stock is sold. Canon may follow similar (or different but still relatively self-consistent) patterns." CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:12:39.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8617" PostId="4670" Text="@eWolf - I will see if I can stack things in different directories, never tried. Never though of it, I guess it would save visual clutter." CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:23:55.877" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8618" PostId="6703" Score="2" Text="The &quot;don't do it&quot; advice partly depends on expectations. We had a couple of friends shoot casual pictures of our (casual) wedding, and the results are exactly what my wife and I wanted. And I did the same for the recent low-key wedding of some friends, and that came out well too. But if you're into the big american as-seen-on-TV wedding, yeah, I agree with the advice. (Rule of thumb: if you're paying someone for the cake, pay someone for the photography too.)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:58:41.607" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8619" PostId="4670" Text="@Itai Yeah, I always use stacks for panos, HDRs and photoshop edits.. Keeps the clutter away :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:08:46.557" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8620" PostId="6702" Text="@ysap i read reviews making note about the overheating. I will save this for a separate topic." CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:12:06.620" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8621" PostId="6726" Score="1" Text="Actually, that is what i am doing. The 35mm f/1.8 is my neighbors who I just found out has a D90. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:26:31.377" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8622" PostId="6708" Text="What you actually want to accomplish with color calibration is predictable end result. Therefore, you should check against the end result, which, for a prosumer level, is generally a high-end inkjet printer output. Check multiple labs in your area, if there are such, compare them, and establish good relationship with the one you can really trust. You should aim for talking directly to the guy/girl in the lab who is going to feed your files to the printer. Color management is not simple and you probably need a few rounds to get it really right." CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:33:54.880" UserId="1774" />
  <row Id="8623" PostId="6702" Score="1" Text="@kacalapy: off-topic for this question, but one thing to work on is *taking fewer photos*. When you take that many in a night, it's a lot of work just to go through and choose the good ones. Work on putting a little more effort into each click, and I think you'll actually find that not only do you save time and storage space, your results are better *overall*." CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:43:50.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8624" PostId="6702" Text="Thanks mattdm, The reason for the large number is i use burst mode often so that out of 5 shots i hope to catch one nice one. This way instead of having one shot of a particular moment, I have 5 and can select the best looking. My timing is poor when trying to capture a moment. I noticed this when I went out and tried to get shots of cooks in a kitchen. I missed many good shots cause it took me a while to be ready to shoot. I am working on this and trying to get better." CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:48:53.260" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8625" PostId="3347" Text="For me the camera is slightly slower than using the card reader. However, I'm willing to pay that price for the security that I cannot forget the card in the reader at home ..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:53:04.543" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="8627" PostId="6741" Text="Aaaaah, thanks a lot. Indeed, that's the culprit. I'm going to bang my head against a wall and when I return I'll accept the answer (SO says I cannot, yet :-))." CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:57:44.370" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="8628" PostId="6706" Text="Formatting the card did not help, issue remains, will post over at superuser." CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:10:47.763" UserId="2371" />
  <row Id="8629" PostId="6656" Text="Actually, I'm liking getting more detailed responses in a per question format." CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:11:34.020" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8630" PostId="6710" Score="3" Text="The photo of the dog is taken at 85mm, your photo was taken at 35mm.  Get an 85mm lens :) " CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:29:18.880" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="8631" PostId="6715" Score="1" Text="@jrista - but the DOF of a 50mm lens on an APS-C body won't be the same as the DOF of a 85mm lens on a full-frame body I don't think." CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:33:15.197" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="8632" PostId="6713" Text="&quot;Can you suggest a long Nikon lens with a high aperture&quot; - the Nikon 85mm f/1.8" CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:48:28.370" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="8633" PostId="6657" Score="2" Text="FWIW, I think the motion blur here adds significantly to the image." CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:54:39.927" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8634" PostId="6745" Score="1" Text="I always need a good excuse to upgrade all my lenses to the same filter size! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:58:57.657" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="8635" PostId="6163" Text="Aperture priority, on Canon at least, will also lock the shutter speed to the max flash synch speed (usually 1/250)! You can lose some shots if the flash is on outside and the shutter speed needs to be much faster." CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:06:26.057" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="8636" PostId="6703" Text="These are mighty nice friends. Mostly the DO expect the wedding-grade-pictures. I'm still not sure if the couple that literally forced me to take pictures as main on their wedding still are our friends ... (read as: been there, done it, post processing aaargh!)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:18:18.800" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8637" PostId="6747" Text="I second this. I'm a Lee Filter user myself. Nothing quite like the satisfaction of buying a filter, and knowing you can use it on every lens you own, now, in the future, ever." CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:26:43.483" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8638" PostId="6747" Text="So, just to clarify, you buy a filter of a high-enough quality that the 52mm-77mm filter conversion ring you're using doesn't affect the final image. Or are you saying you use the square slide-in filters?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:32:47.257" UserId="2832" />
  <row Id="8639" PostId="6163" Text="@AngerClown Thats actually optional via a Custom Function, C.Fn I-7 on the 5DII, there are 3 options." CreationDate="2011-01-10T17:49:51.113" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="8640" PostId="6747" Score="1" Text="@PaulH - The Cokin and Lee systems are the square slide-in types (except for a few specialized ones like a circular polarizer which, even then, is still designed to fit the system) and that has some advantages, especially for any graduated filter." CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:18:57.650" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8641" PostId="6747" Score="1" Text="I like the versatility of this system.  Do you find the hanger to be awkward or bulky?  It also looks like you can't really mount a lens hood with the filter adapter in place - is this right?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:19:37.437" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="8642" PostId="6650" Text="@jrista : Okay I edited." CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:25:48.763" UserId="2649" />
  <row Id="8643" PostId="6750" Text="I cant have a $300 flash with wax paper over it. And for ten dollars I can spring for the actual thing. Also, the velcro is a turn off, good thing you mentioned it." CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:42:19.150" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8644" PostId="6713" Score="1" Text="@kacalapy assuming the height of your daughters head is about 18cm, applying a bit of trigonometry reveals you were 90cm away, which is more like three feet!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:45:53.213" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8645" PostId="6747" Text="@D. Lambert - I don't find the system to be awkward, though that's probably a per person sort of thing, so mileage may vary there. As for hoods, Cokin has one designed for the filter holder, but I'm not sure if Lee does or not, jrista would probably know." CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:46:12.373" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8646" PostId="6752" Score="3" Text="I see your not able to yet post a picture, but could you link a picture or something? That would really help... Also, any other information, camera type, lens type, etc would help." CreationDate="2011-01-10T18:49:59.843" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8647" PostId="6750" Text="@Alan look at the pictures, the two diffusers will have quite different effects, the softbox one is more directional, sending light out forward whereas the omnibounce acts more like a bulb and radiates in all directions!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:01:26.777" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8648" PostId="6753" Score="2" Text="point 2, don't think you'll get out of focus stars in a moon image, the distance to the moon ought to exceed the hyperfocal distance for any lens settings you could be using! Plus if you expose for the moon you wont get stars in your image as they're much much darker..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:08:08.710" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8649" PostId="6750" Text="True, however both diffuse light, sorry that my answer did not make it clear that the shape of the size of the diffuser determine the effect of the diffuser, that the hardness of the plastic has nothing to do with how the light is diffused." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:08:52.113" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="8651" PostId="6750" Text="@Alan - Velcro speed-straps are very easy to make or buy and eliminate any need for permanent attachment to the flash." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:16:16.050" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8652" PostId="6700" Text="@Itai thanks for posting the DR vs ISO graph, don't know why I've never clicked that tab before! The gap to the 1Ds3 closes a lot as the ISO goes up but the k-5 stays ahead, that is interesting!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:18:37.393" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8653" PostId="6685" Score="1" Text="Just labour costs.  I believe it was around $140. Considering that I could hardly turn the focus ring, I was ecstatic with this price.  " CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:19:30.990" UserId="3124" />
  <row Id="8654" PostId="6753" Score="1" Text="It'd be a little less appearant if the moon was out of focus, but I'm aware that if the moon is in focus, so will the stars. You'll note he used a long time to expose for the moon, I think he's exposing the current moon, which is more of a crescent moon. That will be in the range of stars being visible." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:22:56.837" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8655" PostId="6750" Text="@kacalapy: why exactly can't you have a $300 flash with wax paper over it? Will it catch fire?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:24:11.480" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8656" PostId="6733" Score="3" Text="Disappointment depends entirely on expectations. If these are sufficiently low there's no reason to expect they'll be disappointed!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:28:03.363" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8657" PostId="6703" Text="@mattdm couldn't agree more. Where did the questioner state he was planning to be the sole photographer at a very high profile wedding for two very demanding people? He might be planning to get a few shots as a guest, or he may just want to know how it's done out of interest! So many baseless assumptions in these answers/comments..." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:32:16.013" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8658" PostId="6750" Text="@msttdm: of course I can. I think it will raise eye brows to see a rather large camera unit (camera, speed light, lens) with rubber bands and wax paper attached. But the fire would be scary since you mention it. Also, i have read reviews of the flash overheating and burning out from overuse/ abuse." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:39:07.130" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8659" PostId="6740" Score="1" Text="+1 this might not be the problem for the questioner but card write speed has a big effect on continuous bursts! " CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:39:22.720" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8660" PostId="6745" Text="+1 This works well: the 52 mm filters are cheap enough, whereas the larger ones can be a considerable outlay (especially polarizers), so it's worth the little extra hassle to get small step-up rings for them.  Rings tend to bind, so I suspect--I've never even tried--that a huge step up (like 52 to 77) might be more trouble than it's worth." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:40:49.457" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8661" PostId="6756" Text="86mm is a large piece of glass!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:41:01.530" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8663" PostId="6753" Score="3" Text="Actually, yeah at 46 seconds he must be massively overexposing and getting lens flare. Anyone else really looking forward to getting to actually see the photo now?!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:48:19.453" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8664" PostId="6716" Text="@John McNamara: Thank you for participating, but I have to to close this particular question as overly vague. Can you elaborate a bit? There is no such thing as &quot;best macro&quot; if you don't provide a lot more detail. What is your budget? Your goals? What kind of specific problems are you trying to solve?  Otherwise, all you'll get is random lists of brand loyalty, and that's not really what we do here. &quot;Expert answers&quot; will come from very specific questions that can be answered at least somewhat objectively. Please let us know *specifically* what you are looing for and try again. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:50:20.780" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="8665" PostId="6622" Score="2" Text="@whuber you're welcome. The reason I'm arguing my case so passionately on here stems from several occasions when I've seen people drop the ISO and underexpose the image, thinking they are reducing noise. On the reddit photography section someone shooting at night in *manual* mode was advised to lower the ISO to reduce noise. I pointed out the fault in this thinking, and received a substantial amount of downvotes (because everyone knows high ISO means more noise right?) so I sort of knew what to expect!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:54:21.527" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8666" PostId="6620" Score="1" Text="I never meant to be controversial, this answer contains lots of useful info, I just wanted to let people know that dopping ISO doesn't guarantee lower noise, and provide an example. I thought it about time that someone stand up for Captain ISO, in his relentless struggle against the evil Doctor Read Noise, for which he receives no recognition, all whilst Mr. Dim Indoor Lighting gets away scot free!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:59:26.127" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8667" PostId="6740" Text="@Matt That's right.  The clue here is that the viewfinder says 6.  I believe the Canons don't attempt to account for SD write speed in their estimates, so that 6 must reflect some internal settings, as @stark indicated." CreationDate="2011-01-10T19:59:51.733" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8668" PostId="6715" Text="@Alex: The DOF of a 50mm on an APS-C is not the same as the DOF of a 50mm on full frame, because of the very fact that a 50mm on APS-C behaves more like an 85mm on full frame. The DOF of a 50mm on APS-C should be similar, although probably not exactly the same as, an 85mm on full frame. Obviously, the 85mm f/1.2 on full frame will produce far better images than a 50mm f/1.4 on APS-C, regardless of the similarity of DOF." CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:01:49.543" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8669" PostId="6756" Text="They go to 105mm apparently: http://www.neocamera.com/search_lens.php?filtersize=105 - I wouldn't even want to *know* the cost of such a polarizer, the 86mm was quite expensive :(" CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:07:48.187" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8670" PostId="6752" Text="What were you trying to achieve?  Were you trying to use the moon to light a landscape, or were you taking a picture of the moon itself?" CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:08:35.533" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="8671" PostId="6715" Score="1" Text="To qualify my last comment...the difference in DOF between APS-C and FF is due to framing. If you use the same focal length and aperture on both cameras, and aim to achieve the same exact framing, you would have to get a lot closer with the FF camera. Since you are closer, your DOF is thinner than you can get with the APS-C for that particular framing. However, when comparing APS-C and FF with lenses that offer the same (or very similar) Field of View, you should be able to get the same framing at the same distance...and therefor get the same DOF. On APS-C, 50mm~=81mm, so DOF will differ some." CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:10:10.787" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8672" PostId="6754" Text="Yes, the moon moves fast, your exposure time should not be more than a few seconds." CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:11:07.573" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="8673" PostId="6719" Text="Aye, good point about the MP-E 65mm. It is designed specifically as a macro lens, and is not designed for anything else. Its high magnification comes from a special design that provides a considerable amount of built-in, variable extension while maintaining focus." CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:51:27.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8674" PostId="3600" Text="Pinnacle is just a fantastic piece of software for this. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:55:35.800" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="8675" PostId="6747" Text="@John - Thanks.  I'll definitely have to look into that." CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:07:52.197" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="8677" PostId="6496" Text="Agree with @Alan... but mirroring the pic in Photoshop doesn't count. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:20:59.380" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8678" PostId="6740" Text="Good detective work all round!" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:21:01.487" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8680" PostId="6755" Score="2" Text="Matt's pretty much got it covered, but a bit of amplification: The Omnibounce will provide a good approximation of &quot;bare bulb&quot; lighting (that should be a better search term for applications and techniques). If you are going to get a direct diffuser, then for the sake of all that you may hold sacred, go for something considerably larger than what's pictured here -- that device will sap power from your flash without appreciably softening anything. Lumiquest (among others) makes several devices (softboxes and &quot;bounce cards&quot;) that are much larger and more effective." CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:23:20.463" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8684" PostId="6752" Text="I've taken dozens of night shots recently (still experimenting) because of the clear starry sky, so my objective has been to get pictures with lots of stars. Last night my objective was to get the moon with stars - I was not trying to capture details in the moon (if only I could attach the photo to this). Last night's photos are good and the few with the moon aberration are unique looking. I just don't know what caused this - no, it's not overexposed or out of focus or dust on the lens and  doesn't look like lens flare. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:51:42.987" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8685" PostId="6752" Text="sej: I think you might have enough reputation now to post an image, give it another shot." CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:53:36.680" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8686" PostId="6760" Text="Please help me understand regarding IS/VR: I'm not sure what &quot;kicks in&quot;. The camera is set to manual focus.           Canon Rebel XS, 18-55mm lens. " CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:57:22.297" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8689" PostId="6732" Text="As this question really is not asking any specific details about an unreleased product, and is asking for advice about whether to wait or not, I think it is an acceptable question. The OP is basically asking for a word of wisdom, not necessarily an equipment recommendation about an unreleased product." CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:03:21.793" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8691" PostId="6760" Score="3" Text="@sej: If you have an IS lens, switch IS to &quot;off&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:45:03.543" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8692" PostId="6760" Score="2" Text="@sej: IS = Image Stabilization (Canon), VR = Vibration Reduction (Nikon). There are other terms used for other brands. Image stabilization done in the lens is usually accomplished with a floating element group, and when IS actually &quot;kicks in&quot;, that lens group moves to counteract any camera/lens shake. If it kicks in after exposure has started, that movement will usually result in a ghosted image. For long telephoto lenses, I recommend keeping it on so you can properly frame and focus. Either make sure IS is activated before exposing, or turn IS off before taking a shot." CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:49:47.217" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8693" PostId="6747" Text="How vulnerable is this system? I use my camera on the skiing slope and in other bumpy places where I have to change fast and put them fast away somewhere safe." CreationDate="2011-01-10T23:16:51.587" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8694" PostId="6760" Text="I didn't take the IS function into consideration and therefore did not toggle to off. Thank you very much." CreationDate="2011-01-10T23:28:36.460" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8695" PostId="6703" Score="1" Text="Assumptions are normal. If somebody asks for &quot;instructions to shoot weddings&quot; I do assume that he is not a guest, inhibited naturally by the doings of another professional. I do not know what your understanding of a typical wedding is, in my experience (7) most non-high-profile-couple want at least decent pictures. Or their family do want decent pictures (2 weddings resulted in disappointed parents). Funnily, some couples do not want to pay for a professional to take them at least during the vows/reception (&lt;=300 €). And afterwards it is a party, you won't have the couple for yourself." CreationDate="2011-01-10T23:31:02.747" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8696" PostId="6753" Score="2" Text="I'm guessing now it's lens flare. I can't see what else it could be really... Hmmm." CreationDate="2011-01-10T23:47:46.413" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8697" PostId="6747" Text="@Leonidas - Do you mean how secure? The filters are a tight fit, it takes some pressure to push them in and the holder snaps onto the rings. Having said that, I haven't done anything particularly rough with them." CreationDate="2011-01-11T00:10:25.370" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8699" PostId="6667" Text="Related (and basically a duplicate, although there's also good answers here, even if I say so myself): http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/566/" CreationDate="2011-01-11T00:35:31.677" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8700" PostId="566" Text="Related (and basically a duplicate, although there's also good answers over there, even if I say so myself): http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6667/" CreationDate="2011-01-11T00:35:52.830" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8701" PostId="6759" Text="Do you think that a lens hood would help in this situation?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T00:47:38.203" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8702" PostId="3656" Text="@Matt Grum: Can you please update the image links? They seem to have broken. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T00:48:12.760" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8703" PostId="6747" Score="1" Text="@D. Lambert: Lee filter system has a very wide variety of hoods that work with the filter system. The nice thing about Lee and Cokin filter systems is they are highly modular. You can combine them in a variety of ways with a very wide vareity of filters and hoods. The Lee system even has a tandem adapter, allowing two filter holders to be used together. An example of this would be using some ND Grad filters with a polarizer...you put the polarizer in the outer filter holder, and the ND grads in the inner holder. The polarizer can then be rotated independently of the ND grads. " CreationDate="2011-01-11T01:26:07.393" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8704" PostId="6747" Score="2" Text="@Leonidas: I am not really sure how effective a Lee or Cokin filter system is going to be in a high action/fast change environment. They do add some bulk to the end of the lens, and I would be worried about cracking filters in half. These kinds of systems are ideal when you have time to work with them, like landscape photography. I wouldn't choose a Lee filter if I needed to quickly change lenses all the time." CreationDate="2011-01-11T01:27:46.923" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8705" PostId="6759" Score="1" Text="@sej - since the bright object is in your frame (as almost in the dead center of it), a lens hood will be of no help here. You need a lens of a higher quality (read: price) which is more immune to flare." CreationDate="2011-01-11T01:52:17.883" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8706" PostId="6760" Text="Shameless plug: my answer to this question has some useful info on IS/VR - http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/670/image-stabilization-in-aerial-photography/6084#6084. Based on that it's clear you shouldn't be use it -- but do note that &quot;active&quot; vr can be useful in situations where the camera is vibrating from its surroundings. This shouldn't be the case when you're using a tripod to photograph the moon :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-11T02:10:08.600" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8707" PostId="6760" Text="@Tom: With longer focal lengths, there can be plenty of camera shake when trying to focus. Despite mounting my lens to a tripod, I often have trouble with camera shake when trying to focus my 100-400mm lens @ 400mm. Using IS in these situations is a godsend, as it allows you to focus without your subject jittering and wobbling such that you can't tell if you have it in focus or not." CreationDate="2011-01-11T02:25:15.967" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8708" PostId="6765" Text="Here's another example of what I see as smooth and crisp: http://www.pbase.com/compuminus/image/28657593" CreationDate="2011-01-11T02:33:15.800" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8709" PostId="6765" Score="1" Text="Here's one suggestion I got from Sean at http://www.cambridgeincolour.com regarding crispness: &quot;Good micro or local contrast requires nearly zero lens flare. Make sure to use a lens hood, and a prime lens or high-end zoom to achieve good local contrast.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-11T02:36:17.560" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8710" PostId="6764" Score="2" Text="The Fujifilm HS 10 is not an SLR camera. Also, the rest of your answer is not particularly coherent." CreationDate="2011-01-11T02:48:34.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8711" PostId="6766" Score="1" Text="Thanks, mattdm. An interesting remark from Benjamin Kanarek: &quot;Flash renders images in a manner where they seem sharper, due to the augmented perception of contrast.&quot; - http://www.benjaminkanarekblog.com/2010/09/09/my-favorite-focal-length-lenses-for-shooting-beauty/" CreationDate="2011-01-11T03:03:47.627" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8712" PostId="6767" Text="Sounds like it's basically the same as the myriad iPhone instant-panorama apps." CreationDate="2011-01-11T03:17:23.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8713" PostId="6747" Text="Hmm... apparently somebody doesn't like Cokin or Lee filters. Maybe one or both peed in their cornflakes, hence the lack of explanation for the down vote here." CreationDate="2011-01-11T04:00:43.683" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8714" PostId="6765" Score="2" Text="Here's another apropos article that just happened to come out today: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/01/it-wont-be-long-.html (Moral of the story: it isn't the camera!)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T04:12:12.040" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8715" PostId="6765" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - Yep, the answer is practice and lots of it!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T04:17:19.183" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8716" PostId="6769" Score="1" Text="I'm sure we'll get some good answers to this, but I do want to add that the Wikipedia article on the topic gives a pretty decent overview. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zone_system" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:04:50.033" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8717" PostId="6769" Score="2" Text="Another reference: my favorite author on photography, Michael Freeman, covers the Zone System specifically in its application to modern digital photography in his book *Perfect Exposure*. (This one: http://www.focalpress.com/books/photography/michael_freeman39s_perfect_exposure.aspx, not to be confused with the dozens of other books with the same name.)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:07:10.000" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8718" PostId="6765" Text="An interesting video on beauty portrait retouching: http://fstoppers.com/the-anatomy-of-a-beauty-retouch/" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:09:46.473" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8719" PostId="6769" Score="1" Text="I love Michael Freeman's books!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T05:12:29.237" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8720" PostId="3656" Text="Done! Recent website reorganisation has broken a lot of links :-/ will have to see what else needs fixing!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T07:25:43.923" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8721" PostId="6765" Text="@mattdm I'd like to see that printed 10x8 ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T07:42:15.710" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8722" PostId="6765" Score="1" Text="Can you post any more examples, the first one isn't exactly what I'd call &quot;crisp fashion photography&quot;. The wedding photos are good but again they're not studio shots so I'm not sure what you're after... the first shot of Steve Bellovin is nothing like the Sardinia one!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T07:59:43.643" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8723" PostId="6306" Text="so I'm getting a D200, thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T08:15:18.177" UserId="2925" />
  <row Id="8724" PostId="6774" Score="1" Text="+1 one for an exemplary answer, with useful figures. " CreationDate="2011-01-11T09:19:07.160" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="8725" PostId="6769" Score="1" Text="I'd highly recommend Ansel's own book on the subject: [The Negative](http://www.amazon.com/Negative-Ansel-Adams-Photography-Book/dp/0821221868/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_a). Read it along with its companions The Camera and The Print. All are still in print, and they were written to teach his techniques." CreationDate="2011-01-11T09:25:40.513" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="8726" PostId="6774" Text="That's quite an answer!  I was going to have a stab, but I think I would be superfluous :)  +1" CreationDate="2011-01-11T10:51:57.197" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8727" PostId="6773" Text="What a lovely answer!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T11:12:31.803" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8729" PostId="6634" Score="1" Text="I would add: colour accuracy, possibly higher ISO noise.  " CreationDate="2011-01-11T11:27:51.343" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8730" PostId="6636" Text="using flickr is an excellent suggestion" CreationDate="2011-01-11T11:28:29.830" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8731" PostId="6659" Text="@Jay, what do you use to make your lighting diagrams?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T12:08:12.493" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8732" PostId="6769" Text="It's probably *more* useful with modern digital cameras (assuming RAW files) than it was with roll film cameras. A big part of the original Zone System is knowing the gamma curves of the film under various development conditions and properly pushing (underexposing and overdeveloping) or pulling (overexposing and underdeveloping) the negative in order to fit the previsualized image to the negative. With RAW files you have a lot of extra bits to play with, so each image is essentially its own &quot;cut sheet&quot;. With roll film, you'd need hope that paper contrast could handle the different images." CreationDate="2011-01-11T12:14:19.480" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8733" PostId="6753" Score="2" Text="The flare does not need to be hexagonal; it should follow the aperture shape. Dust on the sensor would be dark (and only visible at small apertures." CreationDate="2011-01-11T12:21:34.580" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="8734" PostId="6660" Text="excellent technique. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T12:42:19.640" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8735" PostId="6669" Score="2" Text="Nicely illustrated +1" CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:00:14.373" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8736" PostId="6699" Text="Excellent question.  Not many people seem to consider this when looking at new cameras." CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:06:22.450" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8737" PostId="6763" Text="awesome article.  thanks for posting the link.  +1" CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:08:48.520" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8738" PostId="6765" Text="@Matt Grum: I'll look for some more. In the meantime I've tried to clarify my question in the Edit section above. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:18:46.017" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8739" PostId="6782" Text="Thanks for your input and some price indication!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:29:09.757" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="8740" PostId="6777" Text="@Matt Grum: This is a very helpful answer. Thank you. To your point about lighting: for the first time recently I saw a photographer with an umbrella light setup and white backdrop and got to see many of the resulting shots. They were indeed smooth and quite crisp, even without any manual post-processing. Good lesson. Regarding your example portraits, I feel that they don't have quite the same natural crispness of the ones I posted in the question. Sharpening in postprocessing never gives my shots the same characteristics as the examples in my question. More to come..." CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:29:26.217" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8741" PostId="6715" Text="@jrista, an 85mm@1.4 on full frame will have half the dof as a 50mm@1.4 on an aps-c (when both focussing at 10 feet). When people say 50mm equivalent, that will be referring to angle of view, and not dof characteristics" CreationDate="2011-01-11T13:38:35.337" UserId="2973" />
  <row Id="8742" PostId="6747" Text="Never used them personally but I've seen others do and they always seemed problematic in terms of handling. The majority of the comments here seem to support this. I certainly would not want to use such a thing for day to day photography. Well in any case, the only filter I do use regularly is the polarizer, so no need for such a complicated setup." CreationDate="2011-01-11T14:15:51.313" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8743" PostId="6747" Text="@jrista - I'm skeptical of any hood that does not match exactly the lens (I even ruined shots once by using the wrong one), how can these hoods even work if they are to shield whichever lens you have?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T14:18:00.843" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8744" PostId="6764" Text="I agree with the Fuji HS10 as the current class-leading model, although the older S100FS and S200EXR do better in terms of image quality. The mechanical zoom is a pleasure to use, it's hard to use an electronic-zoom after that. Same goes for the eye-start sensor. More info: http://www.neocamera.com/review.php?id=2&amp;review=detailed" CreationDate="2011-01-11T14:23:02.620" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8745" PostId="6752" Text="Are you sure you were not on another planet, one with several smaller moons? That would explain it!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T14:51:13.557" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8746" PostId="6788" Text="If this was a Lightroom question, I'd tell you that you don't *need* presets but they save a heck of a lot of time. It's up to you how you spend your time but having the software automatically put my name, the date and things that do not change is essential to me. You just have to find out what you do repetitively." CreationDate="2011-01-11T15:31:58.107" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8747" PostId="6793" Score="1" Text="@leonidas - are you shure about &quot;The longer the focal length, the shallower the DOF&quot;? I think the DoF gets larger the farther away your subject is (think Macro photography). Maybe you mean that the &quot;relative/apparent&quot; DoF is shallower?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T15:37:22.187" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8748" PostId="6777" Text="And an extra +1 for space" CreationDate="2011-01-11T15:42:19.550" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8749" PostId="6772" Text="So, we've got the five basic, are there standard non-basic setups?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T15:48:58.700" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8750" PostId="6773" Text="Trying this tonight...I wonder if high gloss white poster board will work well as a reflector..." CreationDate="2011-01-11T15:49:32.147" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8751" PostId="6792" Score="1" Text="Hmmm where exactly did you find the 16? I'm only looking at 28, 35, 50, 70, 135." CreationDate="2011-01-11T15:55:07.633" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="8752" PostId="6792" Text="Sorry, I could not read the numbers (too small) off the lens you linked to, so I looked at one of my lenses which is obviously not the same model. Looking another picture of the lens you sent, I realize this one is marked by focal-length on aperture. I will edit my answer to explain both cases." CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:10:21.193" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8753" PostId="6793" Text="@ysap- You are confusing focal-length and focus distance. DOF gets smaller at shorter focus distances AND it gets smaller at longer focal-lengths (and vice-versa). So Leonidas is correct." CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:12:00.380" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8754" PostId="6793" Text="@leonidas: The article in your link actually mentions that they are **infrared focus indices** (see also, e.g.,  http://www.thomasmayphotography.com/photography-techniques/achieving-infrared-focus/), not DOF markers." CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:17:02.797" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="8755" PostId="6792" Text="Ok got it now. Thanks for explaining both cases, and also about hyperfocal-distance." CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:22:21.090" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="8756" PostId="6791" Text="Interesting perspective. I've noticed that they are tons of presets for Lightroom that you can download off the net. Can you possibly point me to any such resources for Canon?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:25:22.867" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="8757" PostId="6791" Text="Sorry I meant Aperture. For some reason I'm not allowed to edit my comments after 5 minutes." CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:32:21.097" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="8758" PostId="6759" Text="Yes, I figured so. Thank you again. Your advice is much appreciated!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:34:19.380" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8759" PostId="6793" Text="@Itai - then it seems like I really have to refresh my memory regarding DoF relationships. I still find it hard to accept that it gets shallower with increasing FL, but for now I'll take your word for that ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:34:45.303" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8760" PostId="6786" Score="1" Text="Yes, I do. Also, did not take this into consideration!! Thanks so much." CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:35:46.523" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8761" PostId="6752" Text="...exactly. Very sci-fi" CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:38:25.587" UserId="3162" />
  <row Id="8762" PostId="6781" Score="3" Text="Fully agree regarding prospects for a 5D refresh. There's nothing on the market today like the 5D mkII. Nikon D3s has video but lower resolution, and is much more expensive. A Nikon D700 refresh with video and more megapixels will only match the 5D mkIIs specs, not exceed it." CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:00:51.277" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8763" PostId="6791" Text="For Lightroom even though there are loads of presets available online I prefer to create my own, as I find that post processing is a very personal thing." CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:17:51.100" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="8764" PostId="6747" Score="1" Text="@Itai: Lee offers a very broad range of rectangular lens hoods, designed for a very wide variety of focal lengths. There is not just one hood that is intended to fit every lens...you can buy a hood that works for your focal length. Even brand lens hoods are not always perfect...especially for zoom lenses. Most brand name zoom lens hoods only work &quot;correctly&quot; at a single focal length, and for all other focal lengths are incorrect. The general idea with a lens hood is to block enough off-axis light that you prevent flare. So long as you don't introduce vignetting, there shouldn't be a problem." CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:34:46.083" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8765" PostId="6747" Score="2" Text="@Itai: Regarding handling, how &quot;problematic&quot; a filter system is depends on what you are doing. They are not designed for every use, so if you are a sports photographer, a Lee or Cokin filter system is NOT going to be useful. However, for landscape photography, where you take your time and carefully craft each shot, a Lee filter system is a creative bonanza, and the &quot;hassle&quot; of using it disappears in the face of the creative power it offers you." CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:36:02.823" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8766" PostId="6773" Score="2" Text="White poster board should work just fine! White will give you a nice subtle highlight with no hotspots on the subject. I have a bunch floating around my studio and use it all the time..." CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:55:12.597" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8767" PostId="4580" Text="Is there any way to _force_ the curve to be monotonically increasing? That'd be handy." CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:57:55.527" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8768" PostId="6659" Text="It's actually just a Photoshop file with lots of different elements that can be arranged however you'd like on a page. It was designed by Kevin Kertz and you can download it for free from his website here: http://www.kevinkertz.com/ (link is bottom center of the page) I think the elements he created are really classy looking, myself. " CreationDate="2011-01-11T18:11:50.080" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8769" PostId="6791" Score="1" Text="http://www.prophotoshow.net/2010/02/21/aperture-presets-free-list/ that's a fairly good list, but like @LC1983 said, you'll probably get the most out of presets by creating your own, since everyone has their own editing style" CreationDate="2011-01-11T18:12:02.370" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8770" PostId="6772" Score="3" Text="There are... So far people haven't gotten tired of me posting these studio lighting question/answers, so I'll continue posting about additional studio lighting based setups and work into multi-light variations as long as it's useful and/or I run out of stuff to say or until someone tells me it's time for me to stop. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T18:26:17.440" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8771" PostId="6768" Text="For a 49mm lens, one has to use 7 step-up ring? What about vignetting?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:02:41.310" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="8772" PostId="6752" Score="1" Text="I think you've captured genuine evidence of extra-terrestrials there! Well done!" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:31:07.697" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8773" PostId="6768" Text="I haven't noticed any vignetting (although I don't think I've used more than 52-77; and I haven't tried taking any test shots to characterize performance... maybe I can try that tonight).  As you stack each ring, you get a cone that increases outward (one of the other views at that Amazon link shows an assembled cone).  You'd probably have to use a wide-angle lens with a fairly small diameter to ever see any vignetting." CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:31:38.017" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="8774" PostId="6777" Text="@jlpp How did you see the other photographers photos? Was it on the rear LCD screen, or on the computer? The cameras LCD images are jpegs and you can usually increase the contrast a lot in camera. I don't suppose you know who the photograpgher was? I've updated my answer with another example image." CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:54:40.370" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8775" PostId="6702" Text="@kacalapy - if you plan on burst mode, make sure your flash can sustain the rate of exposure you need. I assume that with flash, the continuous rate is much slower (need to wait for recycle), or the flash power is really low after the 1st shot." CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:07:40.060" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8776" PostId="4162" Text="To be super-pedantic, the rounding starts at f/1.4, which should be f/1.4142..., and f/5.6 really is f/5.6569..., which rounds to f/5.7, and so on. But in the real world, the lens and camera makers play pretty loose with the numbers anyway, and then there's the whole light-transmission &quot;t-stops&quot; issue, so overall a few fractional points makes no difference." CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:26:44.397" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8777" PostId="4162" Text="You're right, the obvious effect of rounding starts at 5.6, because f/5.7 is more evenly placed between f/4 and f/8.  A convention in engineering is that how a number is written signals its precision.  According to this, 1.4 = 1.4 give or take 0.05.  We should grant the marketers that much slack in advertising maximum apertures.  It's also amusing to contemplate the fact that even when you count every photon hitting a sensel, you cannot statistically distinguish f/1.4 from f/Sqrt(2) except in the highlights of the brightest scenes--and the difference is invisible anyway." CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:40:34.237" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8778" PostId="5894" Text="There's also the issue of obviousness. Carrying around a big camera gets you a lot more attention, especially if you are doing street photography. I find the lens is often more of a draw that the camera itself though." CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:53:13.837" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="8779" PostId="6085" Text="Of course, if you have in-body stabilization, lenses in that range are covered too." CreationDate="2011-01-11T21:42:37.573" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8781" PostId="6799" Text="Looks like it comes from the word &quot;cyclorama&quot;, from theater, back when live theater was bigger than the movies." CreationDate="2011-01-11T22:12:26.063" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8782" PostId="6797" Text="I kind of had that problem. But then, I liked to use my D70 in a kind of semi-automatic mode, anyway, so I managed to find a compromise: I left it in Aperture mode with spot-metering and when handing it over, all I had to do was check the aperture wasn't too wierd. That way, it was still point-and-shoot for her, and still produced great pics for both us." CreationDate="2011-01-11T22:17:34.313" UserId="3004" />
  <row Id="8783" PostId="6799" Text="You are correct. It's also a really one of those really ambiguous phrases because it can mean something different depending on whether you're talking about: theater/music (semi-opaque scrim with images rear-projected on it), moviemaking (same as theater/music OR large chroma key screens), movie watching (the theater's screening wall), or photography (above). It seems to be one of those words that just got borrowed from industry to industry as new things got invented..." CreationDate="2011-01-11T22:28:30.883" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8784" PostId="6492" Text="I actually just dug in with Hugin as it turns out. It's not that painful actually, but it has a nearly log of time per picture added. It couldn't process 11 18 meg RAW files successfull--would crash every time. smaller jobs it could handle ok. I will try the other FOSS ones though." CreationDate="2011-01-11T22:57:04.607" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="8785" PostId="3067" Score="2" Text="&quot;Kit&quot; is British for &quot;gear&quot;, by the way. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-11T23:00:57.113" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8786" PostId="2775" Text="I've had problems with Hugin crashing on larger images. it appears anecdotally that Hugin is unstable with images over 100 megs on my 32bit win7. It's been stable for me when I'm stitching smaller panos though" CreationDate="2011-01-11T23:17:05.380" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="8787" PostId="6799" Score="1" Text="In my day, a &quot;cyclo wall&quot; was a permanent installation -- a cove was built between wall and floor (usually a bendable plywood over a rib form), and the wall, cove and floor were painted the same color. The wall would stop short of the ceiling so lights could be fired from above and behind. Same idea, but more useful for large product photography than seamless. Think of a light table (not a transparency viewer -- one of those deals with a plexi sweep) writ large." CreationDate="2011-01-11T23:24:54.917" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8788" PostId="6764" Text="Thx for @Itai agreed XD" CreationDate="2011-01-11T23:49:22.880" UserId="3161" />
  <row Id="8789" PostId="6746" Text="@chills, this smells good; do you have suggestions for a good test image? Or should I ask a new question?" CreationDate="2011-01-11T23:55:10.930" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8790" PostId="6795" Text="Actually printers seem to emphasize that you should *not* add the printer's profile to the image; rather, the printer profile should be used for soft-proofing and the image should be left in the working space or set to a specific profile (usually sRGB)." CreationDate="2011-01-11T23:56:51.240" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8791" PostId="6797" Text="Haha -- so does the fact that my girlfriend wants to learn how to use manual mode mean she's a keeper? :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-12T00:37:09.510" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8793" PostId="6746" Text="I went with WHCC when I went through this... And I used the image here http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/web-browser-color-management.html and 4 other images of my own that I am picky about the color of.  (WHCC gives you 5 free test prints when you get setup)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T01:45:39.320" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8794" PostId="6799" Text="@Stan Rogers - what you're describing is what I'd been read elsewhere prior to this question" CreationDate="2011-01-12T02:00:05.680" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8795" PostId="5047" Text="Most reasonable filters though (polarizer, ND, etc) except for UV will certainly break the $100 barrier, mine all did :)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T02:10:59.197" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8796" PostId="6811" Score="1" Text="I found strobist 102 much more informative than 101 and its not intended as a &quot;next level&quot; but more as a replacement for 101." CreationDate="2011-01-12T02:12:11.973" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8797" PostId="6799" Text="@rfusca or @Stan Rogers: Definitely feel free to post answer(s)... I don't claim to have the market cornered on right answers. :-) Merely sharing from my own experience with cyclo walls." CreationDate="2011-01-12T02:18:06.000" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8799" PostId="6799" Score="1" Text="I'll repost as an answer, but you've gotta know that terminology is kind of slippery, especially these days with what used to be prohibitively expensive studio techniques falling into the realm of the prosumer/hobbyist. One can no longer assume that &quot;cyclo wall&quot; isn't just referring to the elimination of the wall/floor seam." CreationDate="2011-01-12T02:32:34.523" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8800" PostId="3067" Text="Do we need to have one of these for each price bracket? See for the $50-100 range, although many things suggested there are below $50. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5046/what-are-good-gifts-between-50-and-100-for-photographers" CreationDate="2011-01-12T02:36:14.353" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8801" PostId="6795" Text="@Reid, you are correct. Edited my original answer." CreationDate="2011-01-12T03:00:38.390" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="8802" PostId="6793" Text="@ysap: Looking over the equations, I think you are right pointing out my mistake. Total DOF stays the same at fixed magnification of subject, but relative DOF (relative to distance) shrinks. I mostly ignore magnification, making relative DOF the important factor." CreationDate="2011-01-12T03:05:40.490" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="8803" PostId="6777" Text="@Matt Grum: Regarding edit 2 (wedding shot), the background is nice and smooth but the gentleman's face and jacket seem noisy rather than crisp. At least in comparison to the Sardinia photo. Maybe it's an ISO issue? Regarding the photographer's photos, they were projected onto a white ceiling as they were shot. Here are the results: http://cstanphoto.zenfolio.com/nye2011woolly" CreationDate="2011-01-12T03:16:34.520" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8804" PostId="6777" Text="Looking back through them (nye2011woolly), they don't have quite the the same crispness that my original examples have but still pretty sharp and smooth." CreationDate="2011-01-12T03:23:01.053" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8805" PostId="6821" Text="I'm curious where my previous comment went? This question is really a duplicate of: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2213/state-of-the-industry-distinction-between-amateurs-and-pros, and I think the answers there adequately answer this question." CreationDate="2011-01-12T05:31:58.557" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8806" PostId="4159" Text="The link appears dead." CreationDate="2011-01-12T05:42:05.590" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="8807" PostId="6819" Text="@jrista - thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-12T05:48:06.093" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8808" PostId="2214" Score="1" Text="@exms, but not for much longer :)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T06:47:08.287" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="8809" PostId="6799" Text="@Stan: Which is where my answer came from... The phrase 'cyclo wall' (or as we used to call it a 'cyc wall,') is frequently used in a synonymous way with 'seamless background,' 'infinity wall,' etc. Nevertheless I think your answer is important to have added to the mix because while my answer may reflect how the phrase has come to be used in the 'common vernacular,' I think your answer is more technically correct. As soon as I have votes to use tomorrow, you'll be getting a +1 from me. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T07:13:30.500" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8810" PostId="6819" Text="Appreciate the shout-out, rfusca! :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T07:25:50.750" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8811" PostId="6768" Text="Okay, I put the 52-77mm filter stack onto my Canon FD 35-70mm lens.  With the FD-EOS adapter, which I've heard acts as an extension tube with about a 1.25x multiplier, I saw no vignetting at 35mm (so roughly like a 45mm lens).  Then I held the filter stack up in front of my 10-22mm lens: at 22mm, I still saw the outside of the filter stack, but at 10mm I could see the inside of the filter stack.  The effect was first visible at around 16 or 17mm.  So I would say that you _might_ start to see vignetting at 17mm, but shouldn't see vignetting at any focal length longer than that." CreationDate="2011-01-12T08:14:30.680" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="8812" PostId="6826" Text="[Link to the 350D](http://www.olegkikin.com/shutterlife/canon_eos350d.htm) (you can just adjust the URI). Doesn't look much worse than the 400D." CreationDate="2011-01-12T08:22:16.210" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="8813" PostId="6826" Score="1" Text="Where have you seen that does shutter replacements for $150? The estimates I've seen were at least double that, and that was a while ago so they may have gone up!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T08:35:13.960" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8814" PostId="5034" Text="Marking as excepted answer at it's the highest count that is not my own comment" CreationDate="2011-01-12T09:05:35.010" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="8816" PostId="6820" Text="@Walter - How many actuations are you planning on?" CreationDate="2011-01-12T09:46:59.730" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8817" PostId="6834" Text="well you should not compare it with the sharpest lens in the line. I've limited my choice within this two only, so Tamron's sharpness should be compared to Canon 70-300mm. Please note that, Tamrons 70-300 is on the top end of their products and Canons 70-300 is somewhere just above the bottom end. So, the question comes, if I should go for a low-ish end product of Canon or high end of Tamron.&#xA;+1 for this line &quot;with the equipment that he uses you could buy a 50D+Tamron for each member of your family&quot; :D" CreationDate="2011-01-12T10:16:26.067" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="8818" PostId="6819" Score="2" Text="Another reference (that @rfusca was too modest to mention?) is [this excellent question](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6471/photographing-overweight-people)." CreationDate="2011-01-12T10:16:57.410" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="8819" PostId="6837" Text="I updated my question to include my current equipment - I have a 60mm/f2.8 lens. Of course 1.8 or 1.4 would be better, but as I'm only 15, I'm rather on a limited budget and therefore would prefer to invest in another focal length range first. Thanks for the tips regarding the flash! Can you also give me any recommendations for an aftermarket TTL flash?" CreationDate="2011-01-12T11:29:04.007" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8820" PostId="6837" Text="I've just seen the 50mm/1.8 is even cheaper than in Germany here, so I might pick it up anyway ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T11:34:09.730" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8821" PostId="6838" Score="2" Text="There's a [fun video with Bruce Gilden](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkIWW6vwrvM) that illustrate how he uses a flash when shooting street!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T11:47:22.050" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8822" PostId="6837" Text="@eWolf - I don't have experience with the aftermarket brands, so I cannot recommend. You can read the reviews on Amazon and get your decision." CreationDate="2011-01-12T11:56:01.783" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8823" PostId="6831" Text="Indeed, many of the portraits I take are looking straight down the barrel. That being said, many of my subjects are fairly attractive people either in music or close to it so I guess they can pull it off." CreationDate="2011-01-12T12:06:28.033" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="8824" PostId="6826" Text="Also I don't see the need for a top of the range point and shoot, full HD video is only 2 megapixels after all so you're looking at more like $100 than $1000! Also as the electronic shutter doesn't wear out an old used camera will do fine! " CreationDate="2011-01-12T12:11:46.140" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8825" PostId="6819" Score="1" Text="Btw, I'd post examples of some of the pictures of when head on or 90 degrees just doesn't work from a recent portrait session with my wife, but I think she'd kill me." CreationDate="2011-01-12T12:48:38.433" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8826" PostId="6821" Text="@jrista: I've looked carefully at the question you noted, and I'm not convinced it's quite the same question. There are 3 answers, which basically are money, business license, and IRS, which are not the answers I'm looking for." CreationDate="2011-01-12T13:01:05.087" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8829" PostId="6832" Score="3" Text="I don't know if &quot;of no consequence&quot; is quite right (except for optical viewfinder, which I agree with). One might want those things in a time-lapse video for the same reason shooting video with SLRs is all the rage right now, and interchangeable lenses and shallow DoF are certainly part of that." CreationDate="2011-01-12T14:43:08.737" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8830" PostId="6837" Text="@eWolf: your 60mm/f2.8 lens is quite nice. The 50mm f/1.8 isn't a significantly-different focal length, and it's a lower optical quality than what you have. Sure, it's a little over one stop faster, f/2.8 is good for most situations. So, although everyone says the 50mm f/1.8 is a &quot;must buy&quot;, I'd actually advise you to skip it." CreationDate="2011-01-12T14:50:13.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8831" PostId="6842" Score="4" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! This is a great question." CreationDate="2011-01-12T14:53:06.103" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8832" PostId="6837" Text="Oh, and on flash: that's a different question, really. In fact: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5896. I'm not sure on how the prices for Metz compare vs. Canon in Singapore, but in the EU, they're very compelling." CreationDate="2011-01-12T14:53:18.607" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8833" PostId="5907" Text="And in the US, we're paying inflated prices for Metz. In the EU, they're even more so. (Dunno about up there in Canada!)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T14:57:45.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8834" PostId="6838" Text="@gerikson Wow! That's really impressive.. Certainly motivates me a lot! Thanks for sharing :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:07:06.837" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="8835" PostId="6832" Text="Thanks for your reply, the CHDK looks like it would be an ideal solution.  I don't own any P &amp; S cameras other than my smartphone which I won't use.  I can probably get a decent P &amp; S for around $100 so that would be a good bet." CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:09:57.157" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8836" PostId="6818" Text="Thanks for the edit ~ I thought that was what the question meant but when I read it last night I was too tired to do any searching!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:13:54.447" UserId="706" />
  <row Id="8837" PostId="6847" Score="1" Text="This sounds like it should be a comment on the question and not an answer..." CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:16:00.270" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8838" PostId="6837" Text="@eWolf - I agree with @mattdm that having the 60mm f/2.8 makes a 50mm f/1.8 pretty redundant, especially if you are doing full head portraits. That aperture is just too much. If you are shooting mostly full body portraits, then you might get some advantage with the additional opening in low light situations." CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:18:32.747" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8839" PostId="6847" Text="@rfusca - see my update. This is certainly a bit of information that adds to the whole picture (...) in this discssion." CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:21:58.250" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8840" PostId="6847" Score="2" Text="yes, definitely should be a comment even with the update" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:26:46.917" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8841" PostId="3537" Text="On the question of flash units doing damage to a camera: this is not a concern with modern third-party flashes, but for older models, check this somewhat-canonical list: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:39:58.960" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8843" PostId="6831" Text="OTOH, most guides for portraits suggest avoiding &quot;square shoulders&quot; from a straight-on perspective. Perhaps the question is best reworded to be &quot;at an angle&quot; rather than &quot;at 45 degrees&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:50:25.017" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8844" PostId="6811" Text="Strobist Lighting 102: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06/lighting-102-introduction.html" CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:56:24.740" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8845" PostId="6821" Text="There really aren't any more answers. The IRS and Business License answers mean the same thing as the money answer: Pro's are Pros only because they make a living off of their photography...and for no other reason than that." CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:57:58.580" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8846" PostId="6826" Text="I asked a local camera shop how much it might cost to replace a shutter in my 450D. They came back with &quot;Around $150 or so&quot;. Just a rough estimate. I've heard it can cost about $250-$300 to replace a 1D/1Ds shutter, however those are much better shutters." CreationDate="2011-01-12T15:59:47.380" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8847" PostId="6830" Score="6" Text="I think you've pretty done your homework and therefore basically answered your own question as much as it can be really answered. Beyond what you've said, the rest is just subjective opinion." CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:02:54.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8848" PostId="6826" Score="1" Text="Even with $250/$300, it's still not a bad thought — a good digicam will cost that much, and the SLR will give more flexibility and better IQ." CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:05:29.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8849" PostId="2339" Score="1" Text="+500 for that quote, if I could do it!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:07:57.200" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8850" PostId="6846" Score="1" Text="Quick comment on your last line: I am not a lawyer either, however I would find it more surprising if there were *not* lawyers who visited a question like this one (eventually, anyway) than that there were. And in fact, it would be unsurprising to me if this site had a lawyer or two in general - if not right now, then as the site continues to grow. I know at least one lawyer who's an avid photographer. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:09:02.550" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="8851" PostId="2213" Score="4" Text="A related problem is the term &quot;pro&quot; used in marketing to sell more expensive gear. The business needs of a professional *intersect* those of someone who wants &quot;the best&quot;, but they're not necessarily the same at all. Think of it this way: a taxi driver is a professional driver, but somehow you don't see car enthusiasts lusting over Ford Crown Victorias." CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:14:03.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8852" PostId="6842" Text="see also this related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4268/attribution-in-a-digital-print" CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:25:30.463" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8853" PostId="6851" Score="1" Text="@mattdm  That site has been defunct for about three years, but don't let that stop you!  Visit http://web.archive.org/web/20070502204815/http://www.cdegroot.com/cgi-bin/photowiki/Yashica_AF300 .  After giving specs and a brief description, this page lists some &quot;problem areas&quot; and gives a quick qualitative evaluation." CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:41:39.433" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8854" PostId="5898" Text="@Evan you are correct.  E.g., using a 20 micron circle of confusion and a subject at 10 feet, DoF for 50 mm f/4 is 1.94 ft and for 100 mm f/4 it's 0.47 ft.  However, *if you maintain the subject's size on the sensor,* you would have to move the 50 mm lens to 5 ft of the subject, where the DoF again equals 0.47 feet.  I believe this is what Stan was thinking of." CreationDate="2011-01-12T16:52:32.637" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8856" PostId="6744" Text="Wow, great discussion. Thanks for your opinions, everybody!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:13:40.577" UserId="2832" />
  <row Id="8857" PostId="2339" Text="@mattdm: that's what bounties are for :) http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/06/improvements-to-bounty-system/" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:44:34.797" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="8858" PostId="6832" Text="I just got the Canon SD1300 IS - I plan to shoot more time lapse.  I did a quick one with my SLR a few weeks back and it turned out pretty cool.  My DSLR is about 5 / 6 years old (and I believe I am right at the 50k shutter mark, most of which are bad photos), so I'm planning to replace it with the 7d or t2i or equivalent depending on how much use I plan to get out of it. When I got the intervalometer, I totally forgot about 'actuations' even though I estimated how many it'd be.  I guess sometimes you need to have something in your hand for it to sink in." CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:03:26.287" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8859" PostId="6860" Text="We used that meter in my studio lighting course, it was very useful and easy to use. If you do get a meter, get one that can meter flash." CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:24:33.323" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8860" PostId="4827" Text="Agreed, for DX the 35/1.8 is the best &quot;normal&quot; lens!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:29:53.787" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8861" PostId="6832" Text="@mattdm That's true about DOF. Most of the DLSR videos I've seen have been of people whereas most of the limlapses I've seen have been landscapes/cityscapes but there may be circumstances where you want shallow DOF. As for interchangable lenses with compacts offering silly X zooms you're only really going to suffer at the wide end, and for this there are usually wide angle adaptors available." CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:40:24.680" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8862" PostId="6826" Score="2" Text="Again I'm not sure you need a good camera, certainly not a new one! When you're downsizing the stills to screen resolution, compressing the video and sticking it on YouTube IQ isn't really going to matter. Even if you're working with full HD that's only two megapixels and you're going to have compression artefacts on top of that which will kill fine details." CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:43:07.487" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8863" PostId="6777" Text="@jlpp It's not an image noise issue (if it were you'd see it in the background!), so nothing to do with the ISO, the skin texture is due to blemishes being brought out by contrast enhancement and the jacket is due to the rough surface being highlighted by the direct sunlight coming in at an oblique angle. I'm going to put up another edit shortly!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:47:22.057" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8864" PostId="6862" Score="4" Text="Difficult to judge a lens from random images downsized for the web though, especially in terms of sharpness!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:12:06.147" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8865" PostId="6862" Text="It's tricky to wade through, but sometimes people post full-sized images on the site.  For me, this kind of comparison is helpful because it lets me see what kinds of shots people can get with the lens.  Doing this showed me that the tamrom 180mm macro is definitely comparable to the nikon 200mm macro, but that the sigma (priced between the other two) was far inferior." CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:13:57.537" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8866" PostId="6860" Text="Incident metering (with an &quot;i&quot;) is definitely the best thing about a dedicated light meter, no more guessing what you're pointing at is mid grey!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:14:51.607" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8867" PostId="6827" Text="+1 for CHD.  I've used it with a Canon A420 to produce jpegs for stitching into a timelapse (I used a free open-source command-line tool called FFMPEG to do the stitching)." CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:23:03.693" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="8868" PostId="6860" Text="Yeah, except &quot;incedent&quot; gives me 11 million results on google vs 1.8 for incident, did my head in a bit." CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:23:48.460" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="8869" PostId="4159" Text="@Evan Krall my blog got hacked so it's down at the moment and I don't know when it will be back up, so I pulled out the text and added it to my answer above!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:41:05.730" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8870" PostId="6826" Score="1" Text="Sure, a used camera will do as well, and in such a case, cost would be less. As for downsizing and YouTube IQ, the OP never mentioned anything like that. He mentioned stitching JPEG's together, and I don't automatically assume crappy YouTube IQ when I read that...JPEG output from cameras these days is really good. I would assume the OP wants as much quality as he can get...especially since he specifically mentioned &quot;Alternative **good** packages&quot;, not &quot;The cheapest alternative possible&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:46:17.677" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8871" PostId="6864" Score="1" Text="@Ofeargall - Welcome to the community. Could you please elaborate on what you mean &quot;want to know&quot; vs &quot;need to know&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:49:06.163" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8872" PostId="6860" Text="Google results don't mean anything in this case - searching &quot;lense&quot; will give you numerous results, although this is an incorrect form of &quot;lens&quot; (http://www.wsu.edu/~brians/errors/lense.html)." CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:53:29.887" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8873" PostId="6851" Text="Funny -- I put the URL into the wayback machine and it came back with an error this morning. That's what I meant about it not bein cache anywhere. Guess *that* really was a transient problem." CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:55:42.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8875" PostId="6866" Score="1" Text="This is how his D7000 works as well." CreationDate="2011-01-12T20:29:16.300" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8876" PostId="6865" Score="3" Text="If you're concerned about freezing her motion, shuttery priority is a much better setting." CreationDate="2011-01-12T20:30:21.710" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8877" PostId="6866" Text="My 450D does it like that." CreationDate="2011-01-12T20:40:42.317" UserId="740" />
  <row Id="8878" PostId="6869" Score="3" Text="This is a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4687/" CreationDate="2011-01-12T20:43:46.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8879" PostId="6865" Text="@rfusca, I agree but i am more concerned with playing with DOF and bokeh. If the shutter is not fast enough i would up the ISO to force a faster shutter time." CreationDate="2011-01-12T20:52:26.200" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8880" PostId="6866" Text="Yes, It does in the view finder and the top display as well. Thanks, but what does 25o equate to in seconds or fractions of a second?" CreationDate="2011-01-12T20:59:21.017" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8881" PostId="6866" Score="2" Text="@kacalapy: whole numbers always refer to their reciprocal, so 250 means 1/250th second." CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:02:59.357" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="8882" PostId="5907" Text="Canada's no great shakes either (at least at Vistek and Henry's, and if I recall correctly, Carsand-Mosher in Halifax) but there are Metz units that are relatively reasonable -- the ringlight being among them. I still automatically think of the 45 series when the name Metz runs through my mind, though." CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:08:06.453" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="8883" PostId="6769" Score="3" Text="[This article made me 'get' the zone system](http://nickminers.com/2009/05/the-zone-system/) - at least the basics of it. Good text and good examples." CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:10:59.447" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="8884" PostId="6864" Text="Sure thing. The camera's sole decision logic is based on reflectivity of the subject. It can only 'guess' as to how reflective your subject is. Conversely, a handheld meter measures, with impressive accuracy, the light falling on the subject regardless of it's reflectivity. Even if you are using your handheld meter in a 'reflective' or spot metering mode, you're making the final decision regarding a subject's actual reflectivity. Hence, the meter is telling you what you &quot;need to know&quot; (actual light) VS guessing." CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:37:42.803" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="8885" PostId="6864" Text="Please forgive my incomplete initial answer to the askers question. Upon reflection (no pun intended) I deserved the -1. I'll be more careful in the future." CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:39:38.950" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="8886" PostId="2213" Score="4" Text="Whenever some body starts talking about 'professional certification' you can be sure it is a device to create an elite and so to restrict the number of entrants to a profession. This creates a shortage in supply and therefore drives up prices. Naturally this is done under the pretext of raising standards and protecting the interests of clients. Its real intent is to raise the incomes of the 'elite'." CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:42:54.803" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="8887" PostId="6710" Score="2" Text="The DOF in the latest photo is indeed very thin. It looks like only the front part of her cup is in focus, and everything after that is OOF. The total depth of your scene still isn't very large, you appear to be working in a limited space. Try taking a shot outdoors, about 12-18 inches away, and see how the background bokeh looks. It should be a lot better. Also, compose your shot such that the background is usefully in contrast with your subject to help isolate and enhance, rather than fight for attention (the new photo is pretty &quot;noisy&quot; and compositionally lacking.)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T21:59:20.750" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8888" PostId="6850" Score="4" Text="Answers like this are better served as a comment to the question or answer they relate to, rather than as new answers themselves. We really prefer that answers provide useful, detailed, and referenced information devoid of undue personal bias that is beneficial to the community. You need 50 rep to leave comments. I recommend either asking questions or leaving useful answers to get your rep up. As a word of warning, answers like this will usually get you downvotes, and make it more difficult to build the necessary rep to leave comments." CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:01:23.947" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8889" PostId="6864" Text="@Ofeargall: As ysap said, welcome to the community! Your response to ysap's question added a lot to your original answer. Remember that on photo.se.com you're allowed to edit your answers after the fact (just click the 'edit' link below your answer and go to town)... It would be better to take the response you made in the comments and actually paste it directly into the answer. No shame in updating the answer you made, and you'll likely see a reversal to that -1 in short order. (I'll be sure to send a +1 your way when I have votes again in a few hours) Again, welcome!" CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:07:18.423" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8890" PostId="6863" Text="Not sure how this answers the posters question. Just sayin'... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:10:51.400" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8891" PostId="6860" Score="1" Text="I keep reading &quot;incedent&quot; as &quot;indecent&quot;..." CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:20:29.587" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8892" PostId="6864" Text="Thanks for the warm welcome. I've been a commercial photographer for many years and I hated when people wouldn't help educate me. I'm embarrassed at my incomplete answer because I love for people to learn and enjoy photography more. I just found this 'stack' today. I use stackoverflow extensively for my other work. THanks for the gentle guidance on my post." CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:20:57.633" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="8893" PostId="6860" Text="&quot;Incident&quot; is correct (http://www.thefreedictionary.com/incident, and there was no entry for &quot;incedent&quot;); I'll edit." CreationDate="2011-01-12T22:44:26.910" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="8894" PostId="6863" Score="1" Text="@Jay The poster appears to be trying to choose between two lenses, I was offering a third alternative for an f/2.8 zoom he might not have considered" CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:12:03.397" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8895" PostId="4159" Text="What an answer!  I Learned more from reading this than the next 10 best studio flash articles combined. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:13:03.007" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="8896" PostId="6505" Score="1" Text="Just to clarify for anyone unaware: a blurred picture of moving water requires a very long shutter speed. To keep the exposure correct, you need to shrink the aperture to compensate." CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:18:38.993" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8897" PostId="6864" Text="@Ofeargall - hey, we're all friends here. In fact I don't understand why you received the -1 in the first place. A few people in the forum seem to be a little trigger-happy, but anyway, as you know from the other forum, reps are just nice-to-have, and the real satisfaction comes from the actual participation........." CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:26:37.933" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8898" PostId="6864" Text="..... Now to the point - I am not sure I agree with you. If I am to shoot a dark object even in strong lighting, then I will probably would like to compensate a little for the lack of reflectivity. Measuring only the incident light will give me a wrong impression of the required exposure for &quot;lightening up&quot; my subject. Measuring the reflected light, OTOH, shows me exactly how dark my subject is and how much to compensate for that........" CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:29:11.987" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8899" PostId="6864" Text="...... That said, I am not a pro and never used a meter. Thus, it is possible that my reasoning is off here." CreationDate="2011-01-12T23:30:23.453" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8900" PostId="6864" Text="@ysap Indeed, you may want to brighten up a dark subject but when you know exactly the amount of light falling on the subject (as reported by your trusty handheld meter) you can decide how much to overexpose and thus compensate. Unfortunately, relying on the camera's meter alone, you would first need to underexpose the shot by two stops to compensate for your camera's erroneous reading, then work your way back up to the correct amount of overexposed you needed to make up for your subject's lack of reflectivity. The meter eliminates the guesswork." CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:01:50.503" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="8901" PostId="6864" Text="... Same caveat here - &quot;that said&quot; I enjoy using my meter and the confidence it gives me. It may just be a matter of preference. As I mentioned in the post though, the meter calibrates your eye and shortens the exposure deliberation in my experience." CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:04:06.213" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="8902" PostId="6777" Text="@Matt Grum: Awesome shot. Definitely comparable to the nye2011woolly photos. Although I haven't seen (nor have I found myself) another portrait with quite the same characteristics as Belovin or Sardinia I think you've laid out the required  conditions to produce such a photo. I really appreciate your help." CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:06:19.660" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8903" PostId="6770" Text="@gerikson: How do you think the strobes were arranged relative to the subject? " CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:07:33.497" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8904" PostId="5907" Text="@mattdm - I suspect the price is inflated, but apparently not as much as Pentax's price was... As an added bonus, the Metz ring flash supports the TTL functions of Canon and Nikon, so it's a keeper for me no matter what." CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:15:31.247" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8905" PostId="6869" Text="It is a duplicate... As a side note: http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&amp;articleID=2666 is Canon's article on the modes." CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:22:54.877" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="8906" PostId="5047" Text="I bet your lenses are all 67mm or wider filter diameters (; I'm pretty sure my first CP filter (kit lens with 58mm filters) was about $75." CreationDate="2011-01-13T00:56:26.187" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="8907" PostId="6832" Text="Actually, I should have read the article, although there was a link to the SD1300 on the site, it is NOT supported yet by CHDK.  CHDK supports older cameras, most of which are not available locally." CreationDate="2011-01-13T01:12:00.563" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8909" PostId="6883" Text="Does your frame have a glass surface, or is it stretched canvas?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T01:46:17.603" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8910" PostId="6883" Text="No glass, but it's not canvas either. But for other people's use, we should probably answer for all cases..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T01:47:08.510" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8911" PostId="6832" Text="&quot;the DSLR is simply not the right tool for timelapses&quot; Sorry, but I just can't agree with you on this. There's tons of amazing timelapse work going on with dSLRs and some major innovation going on in timelapse capture as a direct result of cameras like the Canon 5DmkII. Check out the stuff that Tom Lowe is doing over at www.timescapes.org. Incredibly impressive work, and most of it being done on dSLR. Also, there are lots of us on the timescapes forums (http://timescapes.org/phpBB3/index.php) who are pushing the envelope with out own dSLR timelapses and advancing the technology as well..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T01:47:30.457" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8912" PostId="6875" Text="Not entirely sure why this has been downvoted... The technique described (tethering the camera to a computer and using the computer as both an intervalometer and a storage device and running the whole thing off deep-cycle marine batteries) is actually quite common in the timelapse community..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T01:52:03.527" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8913" PostId="6873" Score="2" Text="Can someone answering clarify how the regular exposure compensation operates when flash is in use? If you're not using slow sync, is it effectively meaningless? If you *are* using slow sync, does it affect the length of the shutter but not the flash impulse? If you simply dial down the flash EC by two stops and the &quot;regular&quot; EV +/- up by two, do you get a balanced exposure with less flash than the default? In slow sync mode or always? Does it matter if the camera is in Tv mode, or can it also be in Av or P?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T01:58:22.553" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8914" PostId="6765" Text="More advice on local contrast and its effect on smoothness: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/local-contrast-enhancement.htm" CreationDate="2011-01-13T02:05:56.840" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8915" PostId="6832" Text="Just so everyone doesn't think I'm talking outta my a*s on the dSLR timelapse thing... Feel free to check out some of the (admittedly modest) timelapses that I have done in the last year with my own Canon 5DmkII over on vimeo.com: http://www.vimeo.com/search/videos/search:jeff%20lanctot%20timelapse/3b4490ce" CreationDate="2011-01-13T02:21:27.717" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8916" PostId="6875" Text="Probably becasue I'm a Nikon shooter talking about a Canon question :o)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T02:29:34.540" UserId="590" />
  <row Id="8917" PostId="6884" Score="2" Text="Great advice. I'd just add that to eliminate moving of the stuff inside the package, you can tape the various contents and padding you have there to eachother." CreationDate="2011-01-13T02:43:42.900" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8918" PostId="6886" Score="1" Text="I'd not think to recommend a polarizer for indoor candid shots - it'd be very difficult to get right in time and you'll lose a few stops of light." CreationDate="2011-01-13T02:53:56.637" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8919" PostId="6886" Text="@rfusca - the OP did not restrict his question to indoor candid shots, as he said &quot;most&quot;. I did mention that it is not an all-around solution and works in certain circumstances." CreationDate="2011-01-13T03:12:20.790" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8920" PostId="6885" Text="Great question @kacalapy!" CreationDate="2011-01-13T03:28:02.877" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="8921" PostId="6847" Text="I'm not a lawyer, but I don't think the &quot;lesson here&quot; is actually the one you draw. The intent of these licenses is to clarify and make consistent legally-binding terms of sharing. You don't have to ask each time, but you do need to follow the given rules. In this case, the license used was apparently some variant of `CC BY-NC-ND`, and the book publisher blatantly ignored the conditions." CreationDate="2011-01-13T03:35:46.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8922" PostId="6847" Text="@mattdm - in a perfect world, you may be correct. However, in our not-so-perfect world, even clear contracts are subject to the personal interpretation of the judge. Hence, if it is possible, it is best to consult the creator first." CreationDate="2011-01-13T04:07:06.703" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8923" PostId="6847" Score="1" Text="@ysap: sure, and I actually suggest that in my answer. But I don't think this story illustrates that at all. If the publisher had followed the basic requirements of the license and the photographers still sued, that would have been one thing. But as it is, this doesn't test that one way or another, so it's not really a good background for speculation on that point. (It does, however, validate that the license has teeth, at least in Israel.)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T04:29:35.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8924" PostId="169" Text="I didn't downvote, but: this answer could be significantly improved by explaining *why* one would want to get an &quot;effective focal length&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-13T04:54:58.870" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8925" PostId="6847" Text="@mattdm - OK, I agree on THAT." CreationDate="2011-01-13T05:07:40.600" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8926" PostId="6889" Score="1" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: Good call - really it's just anything to shift that reflection angle." CreationDate="2011-01-13T05:49:04.627" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8927" PostId="6883" Score="2" Text="My solution is to have the lab drop-ship big bulky things directly to customers so I don't have to deal with packing and mailing personally, but I suppose that's probably not the sort of answer you're looking for. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T05:49:37.770" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="8928" PostId="169" Text="Thanks matttdm; I'll do my best. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T06:05:48.390" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="8929" PostId="6874" Text="+1, having flash and regular exposure control tied together would take half of the fun away." CreationDate="2011-01-13T06:11:33.017" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="8930" PostId="6770" Text="@jlpp 45 degrees on each side" CreationDate="2011-01-13T06:19:21.330" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8931" PostId="6889" Score="1" Text="Shifting the eyeglass frames a little bit is a good tip for when you have a rather static lighting setup - for example, shooting a series of portraits of different people." CreationDate="2011-01-13T06:24:05.303" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8932" PostId="6874" Text="So did increasing camera exp comp. allow in more ambient and reduce the flash output slightly to give the same exposure?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T09:05:19.643" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="8933" PostId="6832" Text="@Jay I've edited my post to avoid confusion, I didn't mean to say you couldn't shoot timelapses with a DSLR, or that if you did they would be somehow inferior, just that it was overkill, especially when you are just starting out. A single three minute timelapse will use almost 5000 actuations, or 10% of what the camera was designed to shoot in its lifetime. Yes I know they can go on longer, but if you're just experimenting that's a lot!" CreationDate="2011-01-13T10:07:25.807" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8934" PostId="4580" Text="As far as I know, there is no such an option, but use the preview and trust your eyes. Usually the picture starts looking wrong long before the flat ranges (or ranges with negative slope) appear on the curve." CreationDate="2011-01-13T10:21:07.827" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="8935" PostId="6899" Score="4" Text="Welcome to the community. By &quot;burnt&quot; you mean overly exposed allover? Is it possible that you use spot metering and meter for a very dark area/subject in your scene? Can you post a picture to demonstrate the problem?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T10:59:19.723" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8936" PostId="6898" Text="If I do use high speed sync flash, where do I fire. I mean at what position in the image sensor exposure should I trigger the flash and generally what would be the time period of the flash." CreationDate="2011-01-13T11:57:22.570" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="8937" PostId="6901" Text="+1 for outlining applications of reciprocity failure" CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:09:46.840" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="8938" PostId="6897" Text="Sorry, I'm a noob in photography, what is sync speed? Is it something related to the flash." CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:22:42.357" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="8939" PostId="6857" Text="Agreed, the histogram, etc, make all the fancy techniques carried over from the film days, completely unnecessary." CreationDate="2011-01-13T12:27:45.743" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="8941" PostId="6826" Text="@jrista I didn't assume YouTube quality, that just was an example. I went on to talk about full HD, which is still a massive downsize compared to the native resolution of a P&amp;S and even shooting Blu-ray quality HD you're going to compress more than you would a still image. As far as I'm concerned any camera which can produce good images when downsized to 1080p or beyond is &quot;good&quot; for the intended purposes even if it happens to be the cheapest alternative. I certainly can't see the need so spend &quot;thousands of dollars&quot; " CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:13:20.773" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8942" PostId="836" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1615/ for some good answers explaining how this works. " CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:20:32.623" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8943" PostId="6897" Text="Sync speed is a property of the shutter and it means the shortest exposure time for which the shutter is fully open. Any shorter than this and the shutter starts to close before it is fully open. Eventually you end up with a narrow slit moving across the image, which is very similar to your electronic rolling shutter." CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:20:56.453" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8944" PostId="6897" Text="See: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1615/" CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:21:05.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8945" PostId="6898" Text="The point of HSS is that it mimics continuos lighting. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1615/" CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:22:21.220" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8946" PostId="6898" Text="High a sync speed flash acts like a continuous light source (by turning on and off very quickly) so you need to fire it at some point before the frame you want to shoot, keep it on for the duration of the readout (at least 1/15s in your case) and then turn it off. There may have been a misunderstanding, so if you could describe in more detail your particular scenario we could probably help better! " CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:32:38.673" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8947" PostId="6897" Text="@Matt Grum and mattdm: are there any online references that will enable me to understand the internal workings of a cmos image sensor?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:46:03.003" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="8948" PostId="6898" Text="@Matt Grum: What details do you need?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:47:14.890" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="8949" PostId="6643" Text="Re &quot;If the ISO is increased, and the shutter speed correspondingly decreased, then the signal level going into the A2D converter remains the same&quot; - when the shutter speed is decreased it means the shutter is slower, so more lights gets into the sensor right? So you add to that high ISO - doesn't it make the sensitivity even higher? Maybe you meant &quot;when shutter speed is *increased* and correspondingly the ISO is raised?&quot; - I may very well be mightily confused here :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:51:43.757" UserId="3215" />
  <row Id="8950" PostId="6820" Text="Good question, after doing my calculations, I think I want to do a 4 minute video at 30 fps (7200 frames). Does that mean I should shoot only 7200 frames, or take a bunch and let my stitcher 'blur' them?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T13:53:24.540" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8951" PostId="6770" Text="@gerikson: Oh yea. I see it in his eyes now. Thanks. " CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:03:20.643" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="8952" PostId="6909" Score="4" Text="Ken, this has already been asked. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2136/tips-for-landscapestars-photography" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:11:00.323" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8953" PostId="2341" Text="+1 &quot;Although a few darkroom wizards process by inspection, most film users do at least some of the processing by prediction.&quot; When I was learning photography, back in the &quot;waste garbage cans of film to learn&quot; era, we learned to predict, whether it was shooting color or B/W. Digital seems to encourage experimentation after the fact, in the digital editor, rather than in the camera, at least initially. People who truly &quot;get&quot; photography eventually seem to balance that out, then begin doing prediction again. Some never &quot;get&quot; it and only experiment in the editor." CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:20:56.107" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="8954" PostId="6910" Score="2" Text="&quot;I've *never* heard of Clamshell Lighting. What is it, and when should it be used?&quot; :)&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:21:20.490" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8955" PostId="6770" Text="@jlpp some photographers edit out the reflections, makes it much harder to decipher lighting setups ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:22:42.500" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="8956" PostId="6910" Score="1" Text="I'll give it a shot, it should work at least until Jay comes in here and shows us what it really is about;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:30:08.193" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8957" PostId="6898" Text="@Kevin what sort of camera are you using? What are you taking photos of? Why are you trying to get stills from a system with a rolling shutter? Are you even trying to take stills or are you shooting video? " CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:47:32.197" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8958" PostId="6910" Text="I found a nice and simple explanation to hold things over until Jay sets things straight. In reading it I plan to try this out with a DIY rig at home to mimic the effect." CreationDate="2011-01-13T14:59:39.053" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8959" PostId="6897" Text="@kevin The internal workings of a CMOS sensor aren't really relevant to your problem. Essentially it's the reading-the-image-line-by-line approach (which is not unique to CMOS) which causes problems. If the rows of pixels are only refreshed every 1/15s (i.e. your exposure time is 1/15s) and your flash duration is very short then you could just get away with firing the flash when the first row is read..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:01:57.003" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8960" PostId="6915" Score="1" Text="@kacalpy -- that photo isn't licensed for use on this site -- read what it says right on it. :( (Also, apparently not on the blog entry you've linked to -- which, I note, has captioned it as being a poor example anyway.)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:02:23.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8961" PostId="6915" Text="@mattdm thanks. It looked identical to the type used in other answers previously. So naturally I thought it was ok to use." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:06:14.810" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8962" PostId="6915" Score="1" Text="They may have been created in the same software, but it's the creator who has the copyright and makes that decision. In order to post an image here, you need to either hold the copyright yourself or have permission to distribute it in a manner compatible with the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 license -- see the bottom right corner of the site." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:10:06.707" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8963" PostId="6913" Score="3" Text="Good to see you moving from questioning to answering. :) But in general, I think pointers to wikipedia articles are better as comments rather than answers. (If you summarize a tl;dr wikipedia article in a helpful way, that's a different story.)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:13:00.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8964" PostId="6898" Text="@Matt Grum: http://www.ovt.com/products/sensor.php?id=65 this is the image sensor. I'm using a camera module with this sensor. There's no specific item that I'm taking photos of. I wasn't aware of the rolling or global shutter until the camera's arrived. I'm taking stills but I want to do it in burst mode so maybe its as good as video possibly." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:13:53.617" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="8965" PostId="6897" Text="@Matt Grum: The internals may not be relevant to this question but I just wanted to understand how a cmos image sensor works." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:17:05.127" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="8966" PostId="6863" Text="The Tamron 28-75 is fine on a crop camera (Although the 17-50 is more generally useful and a bit lighter) but on full frame it's not great. Neither is the Sigma 24-70. The Canon in this case really is the daddy, although that's not always the case despite what brand snobs might say." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:18:34.613" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="8967" PostId="6915" Text="Interesting, I never clicked that before. " CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:31:17.867" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8968" PostId="6918" Text="Excellent site.  Thank you for reminding me about it.  I should use it more often  :)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:34:20.843" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="8969" PostId="6908" Score="3" Text="What do you intend to use the camera for? It's difficult to make recommendations without knowing how you're going to use it." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:34:45.087" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8970" PostId="6916" Text="The Canon *can* support RAW photos using CHDK; you might want to update your answer to say *why* the Panasonic Lumix is better - is it faster to focus? less shutter lag? smaller?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:36:05.570" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8971" PostId="6913" Score="1" Text="Note also that most text and media in the wikipedia are covered by Creative Commons Attribution-Sharealike 3.0, and *this* site uses version 2.5 of the same license. One can't go backwards, which means that currently Wikipedia content can't be used on this site." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:37:37.443" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8972" PostId="6919" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/1687/21" CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:37:44.027" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="8973" PostId="6898" Text="Is there anything special about this sensor? Is this for work or a hobby? My first instinct would be to say use a continuous lightsource, preferably one designed for video work. But if you're going to that trouble you might as well pick up a consumer camera and solve all your sync issues, hence my first question! " CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:47:50.537" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="8974" PostId="6913" Text="@mattdm: Thanks. Answering is another way or learning for me. don't get me wrong, asking has been good for me as well. The problem with comments is I don't see a way to add links. With answers there is built in functionality for links." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:51:02.350" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8975" PostId="6919" Text="Not really, in that post the user asks for the features too look for in a screen. I'm asking for actual monitor models." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:51:18.933" UserId="1063" />
  <row Id="8976" PostId="6913" Text="You can just type a URL in a comment and it gets linked. Not as pretty but it works." CreationDate="2011-01-13T15:54:57.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8977" PostId="6919" Score="2" Text="Actual monitor models may be too specific for the nature of this site. New models come and go very quickly." CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:01:37.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="8978" PostId="6887" Text="@rfusca in the bottom image do you have an on-camera flash? I can see a highlight on the rim of the lenses but the glass is perfectly transparent. Is the flash being bounced off the ceiling?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:11:11.887" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8980" PostId="6887" Text="@kacalapy - The flash is mounted on the camera, but pointed up into the ceiling." CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:13:07.397" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8981" PostId="6914" Score="1" Text="Have you experimented with a short trip?  A sequence of photos taken from a moving, vibrating platform at 1/2 - 1 mile intervals is going to be unviewable if replayed at standard video speed.  Good slide show, maybe." CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:16:21.760" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="8982" PostId="6919" Text="To keep price down you may want to look at refurbished monitors. You can find may nice models on www.buy.com that offer a 3 year warranty for an additional $20 USD. Here is one example on sale this week: http://www.buy.com/prod/asus-ml228h-21-5-ultra-slim-led-backlit-lcd-monitor-2ms-1920x1080-hdmi/q/loc/101/217148063.html" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:17:43.363" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="8983" PostId="6912" Text="@ElendilTheTall - how can the &quot;Active&quot; system be independent of the lens system? At least you need the lens' focus distance to be read by the camera and compared with the measured distance. Thus, a passive lens is not appropriate for such system. Am I right?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:25:56.677" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8984" PostId="6922" Text="OK, I've never tried this but my intuition is that this makes no sense. Unless you are driving straight for 10 days and not sleeping or eating except at the wheel, you're going to need a lot more frames and then edit it down to 4 mins." CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:28:54.637" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="8985" PostId="6922" Text="@Itai - the OP doesn't say if he shoots his time lapse only for specific periods every day. If so, of course the calculations need to be corrected accordingly - that is, decide how much time per day the camera is active (in seconds) and replace the 84600 figure with that number. So, for 1/2 day shoot, it would be 10x42300 = 423000 secs -&gt; 423000/5760 = 73 sec or approx. 1 minute between captures." CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:35:26.227" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8986" PostId="6923" Score="1" Text="Not sure if its quite a duplicate, but its very close to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2640/tips-for-taking-headshot-self-portraits" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:49:43.793" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8987" PostId="6924" Text="The tip about moving further from the background is a point I often forget" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:58:52.193" UserId="3181" />
  <row Id="8988" PostId="6925" Text="Thats pretty nearly impossible at that shallow of depth of focus - if you tilt your head too much one way or the other, you'll be out of focus (I tried that first).  Not having anybody else around means you don't know if you're EXACTLY where the object was." CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:59:25.267" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8989" PostId="5310" Score="1" Text="I'm sorry, but that is not a very useful answer. That list rolls in to the tune of $25,000! I highly doubt you have all of them, and I wouldn't include every one of those lenses on the &quot;must have&quot; list of lenses for every photographer. Not to mention the fact that the list contains only zoom lenses, and completely ignores prime lenses, which ARE essential for certain types of photography." CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:14:08.223" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8990" PostId="5299" Score="1" Text="+1, although I would recommend the f/1.4 first, and suggest the f/1.8 if and only if you don't have the money for the wider lens." CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:37:32.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="8991" PostId="6934" Score="3" Text="Can you please explain what is &quot;work for hire&quot; contract?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:40:47.423" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="8992" PostId="1337" Text="You can choose the refresh rate from some predefined settings (walking (ca. every 5 min) to rocket (every second)). GPX is exportable in the included software Windows or with a program called 'igotu2gpx' on the mac. There is no integration in Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:43:03.717" UserId="445" />
  <row Id="8993" PostId="6937" Text="I'm just really going to be surprised if a surrogate of any kind will work for this.  At 50mm, f 2.2 (his listed f-stop) and about 4 feet away (a head shot), you've only got a DoF around 2 inches.  Thats a very narrow gap to hit.  That said, I may try this out just to see." CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:53:08.307" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="8994" PostId="6899" Text="I've used the d300 for years and not seen 'burnt' photos.  But I must echo ysap-- please post an example." CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:04:42.020" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="8995" PostId="6920" Score="1" Text="My NEC P221W is in the mail per your recommendation, I'm so excited to finally get it!" CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:14:37.383" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="8996" PostId="6922" Text="I was going to shoot around the clock, at night, I was planning to lower the rate at which I take pictures to 1/10 of the day rate. I will also probably cut out boring stuff such as stopping for gas." CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:24:27.687" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8997" PostId="6914" Text="I experimented with a drive around the block at 25 - 35 mph (210 seconds in 7 seconds).  I shot at 1 fps (when the camera could keep up).  It looked relatively smooth when played back at 30 fps." CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:25:42.850" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8998" PostId="6922" Text="I realize a 5 second exposure is long during the day, probably still outside of what a polarizer can bring down and a really small aperture." CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:27:03.333" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="8999" PostId="6922" Text="@Walter White - even if it was within the polarizer/aperture capability, why would you want to expose for 5 seconds in the first place? BTW, if you insist, a strong ND (Neutral Density) filter is more adequate than a polarizer here." CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:35:53.097" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9000" PostId="6922" Text="@ysap, true, a neutral density is more appropriate, BUT I don't have one (even though I should).  I am running my calculations again this time based on the limits of the hardware I currently have. Since I can't be swapping out memory cards all the time nor batteries, I have to use those as my guides too. My largest card is 4 GB, I have 2 batteries.  I wonder if I can get 3k - 4k pictures on a single battery without autofocus?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:03:41.647" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9001" PostId="6922" Text="@Walter White - what camera do you have? Syv Ritch (http://www.foto-biz.com/Canon/Lp-e6-battery-life-again) reports up to 3000 frames with his EOS 7D. Personally, I don't understand how - my copy gets a much, much lower count. But then again - why are you pushing toward long exposures?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:13:04.393" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9002" PostId="6922" Text="Note: there are 86,400 seconds in a day, not 84,600. 24*60*60 = 86400. " CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:16:23.827" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9003" PostId="6922" Text="@lindes - I stand corrected. I think the idea is understood either way." CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:23:31.540" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9004" PostId="6922" Text="@ysap: yeah, just wanted the arithmetic to be corrected before the error propagated too much. As such, if you could edit the post, that'd be great. Probably too late to edit the comment that propagates it by dividing the error by 2..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:28:36.927" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9005" PostId="6923" Text="Does your camera come with an app for remote control by computer?  If so, that's a good solution." CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:38:36.173" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9006" PostId="6905" Text="More generally, I've also found the table at http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html helpful." CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:55:52.087" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9007" PostId="6943" Score="8" Text="Those two links seem to cover all the bases. But there is one  piece of advice missing: If the issue is important to you, consult a lawyer." CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:02:02.387" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9008" PostId="6937" Text="I would be just as surprised to see AF nail it very often, as AF points, even the center point, are &quot;fuzzy&quot; in what they lock onto. Face detection would definitely help, however neither solution is going to be perfect. At least with a surrogate, preferably one on a stable stand, will at least let you SPECIFICALLY set focus exactly where you want it before taking the shot. AF will not be consistently the same. With an *accurate* surrogate like I've suggested...you can take 5 shots, and move your head a little forward and a little back, and pick the best of them all." CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:02:02.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9009" PostId="6941" Text="I was planning to mount the camera in the rear window looking forward or possibly the right rear window looking forward.  I was thinking about putting up tint in the rear windows to hide the camera. Do you think that would be adequate to 'hide' it. Reminds me of the Jerry Seinfeld comment, putting sweaters over a tv, it's just a couple of sweaters with an antenna sticking out ..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:20:25.463" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9010" PostId="6914" Text="I was thinking about using my phone to take pictures. It has 32 GB storage plus an external 16 GB card. I can charge it when we're driving, download pictures wirelessly through an ad-hoc wireless network via ssh, and programmatically control the camera through scripts.  The only problem I have now with that is, finding a good mount for the n900." CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:26:16.937" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9011" PostId="6920" Text="@Itai, I take it one can still use e.g. a Spyder colorimeter to calibrate a monitor such as this one?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:43:28.747" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="9012" PostId="6947" Text="Agreed. Get a manual focus lens with an adapter ring if you must have a SLR lens on a Leica M. " CreationDate="2011-01-13T20:51:08.093" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9013" PostId="6941" Text="Nice Seinfeld reference. I like that idea. Wonder if you could hang a blanket in front of it at night or something. Definitely park with the rear of your car closest to your door. Or perhaps right by the front desk so you have eyes on it all night. " CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:03:35.367" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="9014" PostId="6914" Text="@Walter 1 fps at 30 mph = one frame every 44 feet, not one frame every 5280 feet (one mile).  One mile = two minutes at these speeds.  What do you think of the result when you select *one frame for every two minutes*?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:16:50.800" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9015" PostId="6934" Text="I didn't go into details on what the contract is, figuring that the answers would cover it.  It seems, thus far, that the responses are addressing the issue." CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:27:07.017" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="9016" PostId="6715" Score="1" Text="@rapscalli: Aye, you are correct. I was working the math, and the same 'absolute aperture' produces the same DOF, however at the same f#, the absolute aperture of a 50/1.4 is almost half that of an 85/1.4. The physical DOF with an 85/1.4 will be just under half that of the 50/1.4. The physical DOF with an 85/1.8 will be about 25% thinner than with a 50/1.4. You would need an 85/2.4 on FF to achieve the same DOF as a 50/1.4 on APS-C." CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:54:08.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9017" PostId="6941" Text="Come to think of it, if you parked so the camera was pointing at the hotel lobby/sign, and you stayed at the same hotel chain the entire time, you might be able to sell the time lapse to that hotel. Just a thought." CreationDate="2011-01-13T21:56:32.517" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="9018" PostId="6942" Score="1" Text="On the other hand, what one now considers to be *extremely lucrative* snapshot of some lousy band might become an iconic photo 10 years later, and if that happens then the current amount might seem ridiculous. So be careful not to find yourself in situation like Carolyn Davidson with http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swoosh" CreationDate="2011-01-13T22:00:38.287" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9019" PostId="6901" Score="1" Text="+1.  It's worth noting that reciprocity fails at *both* ends of the curve: too many photons saturate the film, creating diminishing relative response (and more graininess).  Thus, reciprocity failure is *always* a concern, not just for long exposures.  The increased graininess in overexposed highlights is the film world's counterpart to problems with *underexposure* of digital sensors, an issue that has been warmly discussed on this site recently!" CreationDate="2011-01-13T22:15:22.210" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9020" PostId="5299" Score="2" Text="+1 - This lens is just about the only lens that you can recommend to a beginner without asking &quot;what are you going to use it for&quot; first, and anyone who knows why they'd rather have the 50mm 1.4, or 85mm 1.2, or whatever, won't be asking this question, anyway.  ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T22:36:10.440" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="9021" PostId="5299" Score="4" Text="It should be noted though that this is less-than-useful for general photography on a crop camera, since the 35mm focal length equivalent makes it more of a short tele than a normal lens. Still a great lens for its price though." CreationDate="2011-01-13T22:39:21.987" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="9022" PostId="6942" Text="Sounds like she ended up with a diamond ring and Nike stock in the end...not the worst deal..." CreationDate="2011-01-13T22:47:31.073" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9023" PostId="6943" Score="4" Text="Note also that, although there are international copyright treaties, this varies significantly from country to country." CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:01:55.590" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9024" PostId="6951" Score="1" Text="Doesn't the question specifically ask about aperture and ISO?  (I also find it noteworthy that your source believes starlight is willing to sit still 15 seconds for the intrepid photographer, but not appreciably longer :-).  If we were to engage about 6,000 people to train their cameras on the sky around the world, could we synchronize them to make the heavens stand still for an entire day?)" CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:17:42.517" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9025" PostId="6934" Text="So, is it a work that you do upon order with a customer and a contract, as opposed to finding clients to your already made product (photographs in this case)?" CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:20:51.997" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9026" PostId="6942" Score="2" Text="I think many photographers suffer from the all too common delusion that 'my photography is SOOOOO valuable.' No it's not. For every one Carolyn Davidson I can easily find you 1000 photographers that are starving because they held on to their 'principles' and didn't 'sell out' for cold hard cash. The VAST MAJORITY of photographers will be FAR better off financially to take work-for-hire gigs as they come and price their photography accordingly in order to make a very reasonable living, and it is just short of pure myth to perpetuate any other view." CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:37:11.257" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9027" PostId="6942" Text="Technically, if everybody did that it would drive the prices of work-for-hire gigs down in the long run - so be glad everybody doesn't!" CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:42:32.477" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9028" PostId="6941" Text="I am planning to stay at bed and breakfasts for most of the trip." CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:45:35.507" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9029" PostId="6941" Text="@Rob Clement - your tips are all meaningful, this is why I am leaning towards using my n900. I can plug it into the car while driving (via USB / cigarette adapter) so I have power.  Secondly, it has 48 GB of storage locally, and I can dump pictures while driving to my laptop via wireless (if I use USB, it will unmount the filesystem, so I won't be able to save pictures while it is mounted ...). So, the real problem at that point becomes, I don't have a good mount for the n900 nor a good time lapse application for it." CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:49:45.890" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9030" PostId="6934" Text="'Work for hire' contracts are gigs where the person hiring you gets the photographic work product, and the copyright is transferred to them. The implication being that you give up the ownership of the photograph for all time (thus you cannot derive any potential future income from it), and, as they own the photograph outright, they can do whatever they want with it (including deriving additional income, and/or changing it materially) without needing to seek you approval first." CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:51:58.243" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9031" PostId="6954" Score="2" Text="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_speed#Fast_lenses" CreationDate="2011-01-13T23:59:16.380" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9032" PostId="6942" Score="1" Text="There actually aren't all that many work-for-hire situations that come around (for me I just do a few per year), and for the most part they come from large national or international companies repped by agencies where it is cheaper (and less paperwork) to simply buy the photo(s) for an inflated price, than to negotiate for every region of the world that they will be using the photograph. It's not like an open market where there are prices to be driven down... The ad agencies controll this stuff pretty tightly ('cause it affects their bottom line as well). " CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:00:48.843" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9033" PostId="6942" Text="Generally speaking these things mostly aren't for such 'interesting' things as 'take a picture of that hot new band,' it's more 'take a picture of my boring product or packaging.' Things that it'd be difficult to derive a future income from anyway... But then I bought my house on work-for-hire gigs, so maybe I'm a little biased... Or according to some of my photographer friends, I'm a photography whore. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:01:11.430" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9034" PostId="6596" Text="Great!  Welcome to the 50mm club." CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:01:24.457" UserId="1615" />
  <row Id="9035" PostId="6941" Text="Is the n900 a camera phone? What's your primary body? If you use your n900, can you rig up a gorilla grip?" CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:23:39.127" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="9036" PostId="6956" Text="Definitely not an SLR lens. But this http://hannu.mallat.fi/oddities/rayxar/rayxar.html is more informative than the google images link...." CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:25:57.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9037" PostId="6934" Text="Thanks for clarifying." CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:32:45.137" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9038" PostId="6958" Text="can you post some of your images?" CreationDate="2011-01-14T00:58:06.070" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="9039" PostId="6914" Text="Funny, I'm also planning to make an East Coast to West Coast trip soon, and was thinking about time lapsing it." CreationDate="2011-01-14T01:04:21.337" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9040" PostId="6914" Text="The motion blur you get from a 1/3.5s exposure might look better in a video as there's less of a jump between frames." CreationDate="2011-01-14T01:11:09.753" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9041" PostId="6838" Text="I'd add a light stand to the setup and maybe an umbrella to get your quick studio/strobist look.  For various little projects, I've frequently walked around with just my camera and a strobe and umbrella on a light stand." CreationDate="2011-01-14T01:58:13.447" UserId="1709" />
  <row Id="9042" PostId="6951" Score="1" Text="Photographing the moon with a telephoto lens will result in motion blur long before 6 seconds. With a very wide angle lens, you might be able to expose for about 5-6 seconds before motion starts blurring it. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:23:00.017" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9043" PostId="6969" Text="Hmm.. zooming and cropping." CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:27:14.870" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="9044" PostId="6969" Text="yup. so much so that I noticed shots taken with my kit lens that is 18 - 105mm zoom that most of my shots are at or near 105mm." CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:30:06.810" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9045" PostId="6941" Text="Yes, the n900 is a smartphone. The primary body is plastic, it has a slide out keyboard. I looked at a gorilla grip a little, but am skeptical with it. They have an adhesive mount, but I don't really like that option. This is the closest I found: http://nokia-n900.com/store/universal-tripod-for-nokia-n900-free-shipping-1053/" CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:33:06.843" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9046" PostId="6914" Text="@whuber, that's the thing though, eventually it will get compressed down to that. I see the value in taking all the pictures, as someone said, you can always go down, but you cannot go up. The real art of it will be sorting out which frames to keep, and which frames to skip." CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:34:42.877" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9047" PostId="6968" Text="In the same vein as &quot;one for each letter&quot;: http://www.dailyshoot.com/" CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:35:29.973" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9048" PostId="6962" Text="www.meetup.com. is a great site to help you get in touch with groups of photographers in your area." CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:38:07.210" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9049" PostId="6969" Text="Great suggestion. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-14T02:57:35.573" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="9050" PostId="6969" Score="2" Text="This is an easy way to make a focused composition. You're removing everything but your clear subject from the image, and that makes the subject very strong. That can work very well, but there's also something nice about having *context*. An image with more in it — with edges, with what may turn out to be a secondary subject, or a primary subject that isn't the first thing you see after all — can be strong as well, in a different way." CreationDate="2011-01-14T03:11:35.293" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9051" PostId="6942" Text="(I'm an economist by education) Just because the market doesn't feel large, doesn't mean additional competition wouldn't effect your price.  But, the current state of affairs is a point taken." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:05:27.680" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9052" PostId="6972" Score="1" Text="I'm not a lawyer, but one told me once that this oft-given advice doesn't actually hold up in court. You could easily post yourself an unsealed empty envelope, and add your evidence at any time later." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:12:01.310" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9053" PostId="6974" Score="2" Text="My Nikon D90 has a similar feature." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:18:22.413" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9054" PostId="6974" Text="Figured it would. Since there's no `TAv` on the dial, is it done through turning auto-ISO on in `M`?" CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:19:44.877" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9055" PostId="6971" Score="3" Text="Just be careful not to hit Walter White (http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6914/what-are-good-exposure-and-timing-choices-for-time-lapse-photography) on the way... 8-)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:20:30.313" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9056" PostId="6974" Score="1" Text="It's set through the menus (Shooting-&gt;ISO Sensitivity Settings-&gt;ISO sensitivity auto control) and is independent of the shooting mode. You can use it in auto/Program mode (P), manual (M), aperture priority (A), or shutter priority (S). I don't know how it picks which combination of ISO/shutter/aperture in the automatic/priority modes." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:25:44.357" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9057" PostId="6974" Text="I think that's &quot;yep&quot;, not &quot;nope&quot;. :) With &quot;ISO sensitivity auto control&quot; on, in `M` you would have the same effect as turning the dial to `TAv` on Pentax. Turning it off and leaving the dial on `M` would be like Pentax's `M` always is. And `P`/`S`/`A` act just like Pentax's `P`/`Tv`/`Av`, where ISO is automatic or not, depending on a menu setting. (Or quickly changed from automatic to fixed by holding the ISO button and turning a dial — I assume that's also the same.) Basically, different ways of telling the camera to do exactly the same thing." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:34:03.507" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9058" PostId="6969" Score="4" Text="To add to this: consider how much the palm tree and rough structure in the background add to your first example. And what's that around her mouth? Some chocolate ice cream? A tropical fruit treat of some sort? And who is she looking at to the upper left? Suddenly, there's a story here — something that would be missing if you had wiped her mouth and zoomed even tighter (or defocused the background to an indistinguishable blur)." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:41:44.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9059" PostId="6969" Text="@mattdm great tips. thanks for coming back to re-comment and taking us all to school. I never consciously thought about your very valid point that cropping in tight is cropping out story points. I kind of just do what looks good to me with each image, but from now I will have a new few things to consider when editing." CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:48:14.367" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9060" PostId="6898" Text="specialty of the sensor is that i have them on hand and they are small in size. The module is only 1cm x 1cm in size. This is for work. What kind of continuous light source would you suggest. I would still prefer some kind of strobe, if possible I would like to avoid a off the shelf camera. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:58:05.250" UserId="1633" />
  <row Id="9061" PostId="6972" Text="funny - because my brother-in-law is a lawyer, and he feels this valid when i've discussed it before... i guess the problem is law is interpretive and not black and white" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:08:29.910" UserId="2189" />
  <row Id="9062" PostId="6973" Text="Some flicker from changing light is OK - I don't want every image to be the same average luminosity." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:10:35.553" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9063" PostId="4275" Text="FTR, months later, that text is not actually from the legally-binding license. It's from the &quot;human-readable summary&quot;. The full legal text is at http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/2.5/legalcode, and includes the phrase &quot;Such credit may be implemented in any reasonable manner&quot;. I think, actually, that &quot;in the manner specified&quot; in the summary is (accidentally) misleading. It just means that the author or licensor chooses *what* the credit should be (e.g. &quot;mattdm&quot; or &quot;Matthew Miller&quot;), not necessarily how it's shown." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:11:44.223" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9064" PostId="6974" Text="Gotcha, I misinterpreted TAv." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:12:27.013" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9065" PostId="4279" Score="1" Text="Not only does it respect the spirit of the license, it also respects the letter, and the recommended practice on the Creative Commons web site. So, yeah. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:13:37.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9066" PostId="6842" Text="I'm adding &quot;online&quot; to the question here, as the other one is specifically about attribution in print. They could be duplicates, but, eh. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:15:17.433" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9067" PostId="6914" Score="1" Text="You probably won't want to manually sort through and select photos; instead, you'd take every 2 or 3 photos using a script, or maybe blend photos together if you have CPU cycles to waste." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:17:45.327" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9068" PostId="6944" Text="A copyright lawyer I worked with decades ago was very specific about a required legal copyright label:  **Copyright © 2011 My Name**  For linear typing systems `(c)` *might* be acceptable instead of `©`.  This has four elements:  1) the word *Copyright*, 2) the copyright symbol, 3) year of publication, 4) the owner.  If any element is missing, the copyright might be successfully challenged.  I haven't checked if DCMA, or other recent legislation, affects this." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:20:55.697" UserId="3045" />
  <row Id="9069" PostId="6974" Text="I guess it's a Pentax-ism. From one perspective it's a bit weird (why not just allow auto-ISO in `M` as Nikon does?), but from another, it means that `M` is really manual. (In some ways, `TAv` reflects a more-digital way of thinking, where ISO is an equally malleable factor in exposure equal to shutter speed and aperture, not something you have to change film to set.)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:21:48.427" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9070" PostId="6974" Text="FWIW (way off-topic here!), Pentax also has an `Sv` mode, where you set ISO manually and aperture and shutter are automatically set. This is the same as `P` mode with fixed ISO, except the rear dial (customizable, but that's the default) changes the ISO setting (and the front is usually EV compensation). You could set the dials in `P` mode to work that way, but since there's a special mode for it, you don't have to." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:25:22.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9071" PostId="6973" Text="I agree.  It would be better to capture each scene with a full dynamic range.  If there are exposure artifacts or side effects (like graininess at night), those can be better addressed in post." CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:25:30.170" UserId="3045" />
  <row Id="9072" PostId="6974" Text="Personally I'd prefer a few more priority mode settings on my dial and a few less scene modes. :-P" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:38:39.253" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9073" PostId="6942" Text="Fair enough. As someone who took macroeconomics and promptly decided to enter the Art program at the university I went to, I'll happily bow to your far superior economics knowledge. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:43:45.153" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9074" PostId="6910" Score="2" Text="You guys are funny. :-) I teach studio lighting so I guess I do have somewhat of a handle on everything (at least in terms of trying to explain it), but I'm completely supportive of anyone else who chooses to answer these types of question. Certainly not claiming to be the only guy with some lighting experience on photo.se.com. In fact, I can't give anyone grades here, but  if you were in my class, I'd count both these answers as correct, so the best I can do is see that everyone gets a +1 from me. Also, see my answer below for my take on Clamshell Lighting." CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:10:36.370" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9075" PostId="6979" Text="I was going to try to catch you in chat and asked you about this, because Clamshell and Butterfly sounded so similar...  Good stuff" CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:14:54.900" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9076" PostId="6974" Text="http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/pentaxk5/images/toprightcontrols.jpg — although Nikon apparently agrees with you too... take a look at the D7000: http://a.img-dpreview.com/reviews/NikonD7000/images/topleftcontrols-001.jpg" CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:27:32.567" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9077" PostId="6972" Text="I too have heard that the &quot;mail yourself your photos&quot; is kind of a legal urban myth, but I'm not a lawyer either. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:33:29.800" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9078" PostId="5659" Text="@Nick The same holds for kWh (3.6*10^6 Joule) ... but people got accustomed to it. @Fake Name Aside: I just read the article of Ken about RAW and concur. I yet have to see a series (!) of pictures, where only RAW could save the day. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2627/good-examples-of-raws-advantages-over-jpeg/6034#6034" CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:35:11.300" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="9079" PostId="6955" Text="Yay! for the good old german company ... if only I could afford their prices today ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:40:58.420" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="9080" PostId="6982" Text="Feel free to PM me if you're really interested in rolling your own hardware solution. I've got some excellent resources which can help point you in the right direction." CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:48:11.017" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9081" PostId="6982" Text="I'd also highly recommend the community over at Timescapes.org: http://timescapes.org/phpBB3/index.php, which I'm also involved in pretty heavily, if you hadn't guessed by the novel above. :-) There's a lot of us trying to solve these kinds of problems, and there's a lot of really interesting cutting-edge solutions being worked on by various folks..." CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:50:14.680" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9082" PostId="6983" Score="1" Text="Hey, the K1000 was manual - and the PZ10 is automatic. That makes it an upgrade, right? Right? ... ...sigh..." CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:53:06.597" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9083" PostId="6973" Text="Word of warning for Canon users out there...&quot;Full Auto&quot; modes in Canon tend to always use JPEG. RAW images are usually only available in manual and semi-automatic modes." CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:56:56.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9084" PostId="6983" Text="I love the little almost-full-frame-average meter needle on my K1000. It's dumb, but it's always consistently so. Wish I could get one of those installed in my K-7....." CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:59:56.707" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9085" PostId="6952" Score="1" Text="That being said, if your lens doesn't have a clutch to let you adjust focus manually, you might damage your lens if you turn off autofocus in-camera, leave the lens switched to A, and really crank on the focus ring." CreationDate="2011-01-14T07:05:19.513" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9086" PostId="6982" Text="I like the bracketing idea, and thought about the time-based exposure. Now I just have to figure out the control issue." CreationDate="2011-01-14T07:09:47.620" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9087" PostId="6982" Text="Before I built my intervalometer/light meter I got some surprisingly (to me) nice stuff with bracketing/fading between the different brackets in post. My camera gives me the option of 'Small, Medium, or Large' RAW files, and Small is still bigger than 1080p, so I just went with that, dumping straight to my laptop via a USB cable. Can't say I tested that solution with a 10+ hour timelapse, but I used that solution with no issues for 4-5 hour timelapses for a year while I built the intervalometer." CreationDate="2011-01-14T07:20:04.923" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9088" PostId="6916" Text="As much as I love CHDK, I have to say that my one experience with CHDK+RAW did not turn out very well.  It may have been because my camera was already one generation old when I started using it, or because I run Linux and there's limited support for RAW on Linux, or because I don't care enough about post-processing (I don't even shoot RAW with my 30D) to spend enough time trying to make it work, but I was never able to load a single RAW image from my SX10IS+CHDK.  YMMV of course, and if anyone's been successful with an SX30+CHDK+RAW, that would be good to hear." CreationDate="2011-01-14T08:16:51.087" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9089" PostId="5659" Text="@Nick I used to laugh when I heard photographers talking about Watt-seconds but it does kind of make sense as you can compare a one second exposure from a 60 Watt light bulb to a 60 Ws flash (of course a scientist would have been able to figure this out from Joules)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T10:31:10.320" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9090" PostId="6952" Score="1" Text="Specifically for the D90, the (in)famous Ken Rockwell has a [guide to the D90s AF settings](http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d90/af-settings.htm). " CreationDate="2011-01-14T10:37:15.873" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9091" PostId="6944" Score="3" Text="Your lawyer was probably insisting on the label requirement to make his job easier ;) copyright is an opt-out system, but I agree it is certainly very good practice to include the copyright notice" CreationDate="2011-01-14T10:38:46.603" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9092" PostId="6972" Score="2" Text="I would have thought possession of the raw files would be a fairly good way to prove ownership, especially if the images have been cropped. Don't know if this has ever been attempted in court however. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T10:40:05.060" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9093" PostId="4275" Text="Thanks for that! So the human readable summary is confusing whereas the legalese version is clear and to the point, what is the world coming to?!" CreationDate="2011-01-14T10:42:48.787" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9094" PostId="6964" Text="Except that rules of composition are never more than reverse engineered examples of things that have worked for others before. That's fine for someone who treats photography as a craft, but for an artist it's chopping yourself off at the knees." CreationDate="2011-01-14T11:24:18.917" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9095" PostId="6959" Score="1" Text="Flickr's 'interestingness' is an example of how crowdsourcing creativity leads to cliches and technical gimmicks. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T11:37:32.290" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9096" PostId="6964" Text="You can't break 'em, which I noted, if you don't know them." CreationDate="2011-01-14T12:33:36.160" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9097" PostId="5659" Text="@Matt How does this comparison help you? I usually don't take (a lot of) exposures of one second, so this figure does not help me at all. Model-Light with 60 Watts? Just qudaruple it to 1/25 and 240 Watts? That comparison does not even take the difference in efficiency between the sources into account - it is at least factor 2 off." CreationDate="2011-01-14T12:41:13.187" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="9098" PostId="6958" Text="Alan, I'm asking this question not only for myself but on behalf of others out their like me who want to move to the &quot;next level&quot;. I think I am looking for a general approach for improvement rather than advice for MY photography. BTW my photos are not always properly exposed and sharp, I just said that to avoid the more technical answers." CreationDate="2011-01-14T13:02:38.157" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9099" PostId="6961" Text="I've seen these books recommended in other places. I'll definitely buy them." CreationDate="2011-01-14T13:03:57.597" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9100" PostId="6966" Text="These are all really good answers. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T13:07:10.933" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="9101" PostId="6962" Text="I would love to go to art school, but who is going to pay the mortgage :-? But I think you are probably right, that I need feedback from people who know a bit more about what they are doing." CreationDate="2011-01-14T13:07:35.940" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9102" PostId="6970" Text="That is a good suggestion - instead of mounting it with the screen out, I would mount it with the screen in.  I can then take pictures with it. It doesn't look very sturdy from the pictures though" CreationDate="2011-01-14T13:31:00.863" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="9104" PostId="5659" Score="1" Text="Again FWIW, I don't mean to imply that Ken Rockwell is *generally* a good source of information. In fact, I think it's worth making a special note *because* I think he happens to be right on manufacturer-stated guide numbers. That is, although not everything he says is correct, not everything he says is wrong either. May be the stuck-clock-twice-a-day effect, but still. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T13:47:17.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9105" PostId="6990" Text="But what if you don't have both lights available to do this (e.g., when making a purchase)? Essentially, you're rejecting the use of standard units." CreationDate="2011-01-14T14:17:51.443" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9106" PostId="5659" Text="@Leonidas It helps you precisely because you don't take a lot of one second exposures, even indoors under 60W bulbs, therefor a 60Ws flash is far brighter! I'm not suggesting you use the figure for calculating exposure, it just provides a means to gauge the ballpark output compared to regular bulbs." CreationDate="2011-01-14T14:19:50.273" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9107" PostId="6846" Score="2" Text="@lindes, that's a good point: what you'll often find people who are lawyers saying at the end of posts like these is &quot;IAAL but TINLA&quot; - &quot;I am a lawyer but this is not legal advice&quot;. That's because making a post on an Internet site doesn't create an attorney-client relationship, so it's not Legal Advice with everything that comes along with that. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T14:24:36.333" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9108" PostId="6990" Score="1" Text="Rentals. But really, as with oh so many things in photography, the proof is in the pudding." CreationDate="2011-01-14T14:40:16.847" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9109" PostId="6959" Score="1" Text="It can.  But it doesn't have to.  If you're starting from a technical background (and I did coming from programming, engineering, physics, and math), it's a good place to get the creative juices flowing." CreationDate="2011-01-14T14:41:09.467" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9110" PostId="6974" Text="&lt;sigh&gt; Thanks for giving me even more upgrade lust. I've only had my D90 a year. :-P" CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:09:22.967" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9111" PostId="6987" Text="The Noktor seems to be a converted [C-mount lens](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_mount) which means it barely covers the 4/3 sensor. Making a 50/0.95 to cover even a APS-C would be a daunting technical task." CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:15:35.317" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9112" PostId="6923" Text="@rfusca, although it's about the same subject, I don't think it's a duplicate because it specifically asks a narrower question which is not addressed by the other question.  Just my thoughts." CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:18:32.523" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9113" PostId="6990" Text="If you do this make sure you have a comparable beam spread, otherwise you wont be measuring the useful power output. The best approach would be to use the light modifiers as you suggest at the end! " CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:31:05.233" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9114" PostId="6923" Score="1" Text="Ed01, are you currently activating the autofocus whilst you're in position (using a cable release)? If not that's definitely a good place to start!" CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:32:26.603" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9115" PostId="6837" Text="@mattdm @ysap Thanks, I'll stick to my 60mm then :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:06:16.960" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="9116" PostId="6997" Text="I don't think that image is legal to use here..." CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:26:14.217" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9117" PostId="6997" Text="@rfusca: I wondered about that myself. However, the SE policy appears to be that it's OK: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/100/is-is-acceptable-to-deep-link-to-external-sites-to-support-an-answer. As I've linked back to both Flickr and the origin site, I'd guess that the owner wouldn't mind too much." CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:48:37.863" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9118" PostId="6924" Text="Matt's definitely right about the cable release as well.  I had kind of assumed thats what was being used, but if not, make sure you are!" CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:48:50.080" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9119" PostId="6997" Text="The photo is listed as &quot;All Rights Reserved&quot; - which is generally, &quot;not without express written permission&quot; and any decision you read into the meta post doesn't really change that..." CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:51:59.950" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9120" PostId="6997" Text="I'm checking with the owners now to see if they're OK with it being posted here. I'll certainly pull it if they aren't." CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:54:57.220" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9121" PostId="6944" Score="4" Text="@wallyk: “decages ago” is the whole point. I’m no expert in copyright law but as far as I know the copyright law has changed **fundamentally** in the last few decades. I particular, copyright notices are no longer (since 1989, to be specific) required in the US. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copyright_notice" CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:55:47.297" UserId="3257" />
  <row Id="9122" PostId="6997" Text="Thats great! (I'm not trying to be jerk, we're just all in the same boat here.)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T16:56:06.500" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9123" PostId="6920" Text="@Conor - I've never tried that brand but I do not see why not. If you want to be sure, call Datacolor (Makers of Spyder). I'm sure they'll know better. Feel free to let us know the answer after :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:01:36.200" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9124" PostId="6997" Text="I completely understand and agree. I *think* it's OK to use (based on my understanding of law, policy, and etiquette), but it's worth checking on." CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:03:15.370" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9125" PostId="6987" Text="That's a rebranded Senko VFA5095H CCTV lens but with a micro 4/3rds mount. Given that, I can't see how they how they're going to release it with a Canon EF or Nikon F mount (both of which have a much larger registration distance i.e. minimum distance from the back of the lens to the sensor) unless it's going to be a lock-the-mirror-up job, designed for video." CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:07:48.663" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9126" PostId="6997" Score="1" Text="DYIPhotography: &quot;yes, I like the example and don't even mind the dirty laundry on the sofa&quot; :-P" CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:29:11.557" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9127" PostId="6941" Text="Okay, with a tripod like that you'd need to drill holes into the bottom of your trunk/backset/etc, to get it stiff enough for the journey. That or hang 30 lbs of sandbags from it and then it still may not be able to handle the load. Or maybe it would work if the legs were spread out enough and you had it wedged tight. What kind of vehicle are you driving? I have to stress again, your rig HAS TO BE SOLID or you'll be sourly bummed at the end of your trip. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:34:30.740" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="9128" PostId="6972" Text="@Matt Grum: it is possible in principle for a knowledgeable person to create an matching RAW file from the jpeg so that would not 'prove' ownership." CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:36:59.007" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9129" PostId="6997" Score="1" Text="Excellent example photo, Craig! +1 from me when I have more points to spend in a few hours Thanks for the addition! (assuming it's legal and gets to stay)..." CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:39:43.400" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9130" PostId="6997" Text="Good deal! :) +1" CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:44:05.960" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9131" PostId="6934" Score="1" Text="The legal concept of &quot;work for hire&quot; goes beyond photography, but also into painting, sculpture, software design, and more. The end result is the same: copyright is transferred to the hiring entity complete and unencumbered." CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:45:36.527" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9132" PostId="6846" Text="Heh, I don't think I've seen that in its acronym form, but that totally makes sense. And I expect to see it -- or something like it -- on this site, sooner or later. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:47:30.953" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9133" PostId="6944" Score="1" Text="Also, @wallyk, the not-officially-legal-advice that I've heard from multiple sources is that you need *either* the word Copyright, *or* the © (&quot;Circle-C&quot;, it's often called) symbol, and they are exactly equivalent, so using both is redundant. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T17:57:35.003" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9134" PostId="6943" Score="1" Text="It seems to me that this question would benefit from specifying which country(ies) the asker is asking about, because of the point that @mattdm raises. It might then get asked almost identically for other countries, and garner different answers. " CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:01:38.543" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9135" PostId="6999" Score="1" Text="Hmmm, interesting. Were this to go to court, you'd probably have to subpoena someone from Google to testify as to the accuracy of the timestamp. That probably would not make you any friends at Google. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:03:30.087" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9136" PostId="6972" Score="2" Text="@labnut but if the JPEG was lower resolution it would be very difficult to create a convincing raw file. Even better, if the images were cropped the perpetrator would have to extend the image by drawing extra background in! They would be taking a huge gamble of adding perjury to the charge list and going to prison instead of paying a fine!" CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:07:35.343" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9137" PostId="6999" Text="@mattdm: remember that commercial law cases are about balance of probability, not absolute proof. You need only have better evidence than your opponent. You could, for example, call on an expert witness to testify to the standing, reliability and probity of Google. Given Google's immensely good reputation your opponent would have an extraordinarily difficult time showing that your evidence is bad." CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:24:13.163" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9138" PostId="6972" Text="@Matt Grum: agreed, ownership of the RAW original is good evidence. But see my answer where I advocate using Google Mail as well. This combination will create a very strong case for ownership of the original." CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:32:28.710" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9139" PostId="6999" Score="1" Text="I dunno. I think the other side might just need to get some opposing expert to talk about the unreliability of e-mail as a transport, the ease of forgery of digital information, the possibility of a misconfigured clock at one of Google's millions of servers, and for good measure say that MD5 has been broken. Suddenly it's all confusing to a non-technical jury." CreationDate="2011-01-14T18:45:25.263" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9140" PostId="6999" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: email have routinely been used in a great number of law cases (including some that have greatly embarrassed Microsoft) so there is a high degree of acceptance for them in the legal system. It is no longer necessary to prove the basics. In our case an affidavit from one's lawyer giving copies of the email and stating that he had accessed the account using my password, would be sufficient." CreationDate="2011-01-14T19:22:07.623" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9141" PostId="6962" Text="If you live in a smaller town this may not be possible, but where I live there are evening art history classes at the local university that can be audited for cheap... It can be amazingly educational to start seeing the common threads in visual art through the centuries. The truth is that most of what you get in art school boils down to the repetition of taking *thousands* of photographs, and getting (and giving) *thousands* of critiques... Both of those things can be done without the nasty tuition hangover at the end of four years... It just requires being a bit more proactive on your part." CreationDate="2011-01-14T20:13:26.717" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9142" PostId="6989" Text="*Secret handshake to the fellow art school grad* You said what I wanted to... But with much more style and eloquence than I managed. :-) +1 when I have points to give in a few hours." CreationDate="2011-01-14T20:19:12.217" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9143" PostId="7004" Score="1" Text="This is good advice for life in general!" CreationDate="2011-01-14T20:26:10.610" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9144" PostId="6999" Text="Well, score one for common sense. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T20:31:32.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9145" PostId="6989" Text="I never actually finished... ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T20:38:06.870" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9146" PostId="7002" Text="You should photograph the process because sounds very interesting, and I hope your kids respect your love and the care about that." CreationDate="2011-01-14T20:58:58.723" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="9147" PostId="6998" Text="@Domas, you mean Nikon coolscan (not canon)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T21:02:39.797" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="9148" PostId="6866" Text="Unless there's a double quote after the number, like 5&quot;. This would indicate a 5-second exposure." CreationDate="2011-01-14T21:19:06.027" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9149" PostId="7008" Text="I think the terms &quot;amateur&quot; and &quot;professional&quot; were in reference to the person taking the photo not the equipment." CreationDate="2011-01-14T22:29:40.767" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="9150" PostId="6993" Text="@stark: I'm usually a relatively plan-less, itinerary-less, seat-of-pants kind of traveller but this list makes me want to do some preparation. I really love the idea of setting a goal to hit each of these categories for my next trip. Very cool. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:05:24.497" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="9151" PostId="7012" Score="1" Text="A rangefinder viewfinder will also include a focusing indicator - that's what makes it different from a &quot;dumb&quot; P&amp;S viewfinder." CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:09:47.223" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9152" PostId="6995" Text="@AJ Finch: It does help. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:11:10.703" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="9153" PostId="7010" Score="2" Text="and to complete the set: twin lens reflex " CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:15:57.987" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9154" PostId="7012" Text="True, there are 'dumb' rangefinders and slr viewfinders in the amount of information they convey (focus, exposure, field of view, etc)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:18:15.000" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9155" PostId="7002" Text="I probably should have! Now that I'm all digital, the storage and archiving of everything is an entirely different problem. It was such a pain in the butt to do that it makes me glad that I'm not on film any more (at least professionally). :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:21:06.937" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9156" PostId="6989" Text="Don't worry, I won't tell the membership committee. Your secret's safe with me. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:23:28.790" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9157" PostId="7014" Text="Agree. It's almost a contradiction in terms to process RAW with 8 bit, so unless you plan on working 16bit it's prob not really worth the effort, IMO." CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:46:07.310" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="9158" PostId="1292" Text="depends on the requirements of the image. I print platinum with dig negs and the megapixels of a phase one back would be required to do large images (i.e. like 20x24) at 360 lpm with a single image. This is something a pro (i.e. fine arts pro) might do that would be VERY different. Also, the larger cameras and lenses give a different feel on the image." CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:49:23.267" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="9159" PostId="5799" Text="careful though: GIMP is 8bit. This could be impactful to your RAW image which is likely 14bit. depends what you want to do, however. Word is that next ver of GIMP will be 16bit." CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:51:53.310" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="9160" PostId="6779" Text="I've upgraded to 5D MkII from 30D, and I quite like it. I would like it even more if I got an improved AF system when upgrading to camera that is two years newer and twice as expensive." CreationDate="2011-01-15T00:15:23.903" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9161" PostId="7018" Text="In that case why not wait for the 5d mkIV which will surely have even more megapixels! " CreationDate="2011-01-15T01:33:14.030" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9162" PostId="1736" Text="In the United States, architecture is classified as &quot;public domain&quot; - so you can take a picture of the Washington Monument - or the Chicago Mercantile - or Frank Lloyd Wrights Unitarian Church building - and not face problems. However, if you take a picture of a building which falls under trademark rules, then you would face problems. A very few buildings fall into this category - the tall pyramid skyscraper in California (San Francisco?) is in this category." CreationDate="2011-01-15T02:41:35.230" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9163" PostId="7009" Text="what is the sd card you are using?" CreationDate="2011-01-15T03:07:22.650" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9164" PostId="7025" Text="Fix in post may be fine for simulating the shift effect, but not the tilt effect. With a tilt lens you change the actual PoF (plane of focus), which means that different things are now in focus compared to a non-tilted lens. This is pretty much impossible to imitate in post." CreationDate="2011-01-15T03:19:27.637" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9165" PostId="7012" Text="No, there are no &quot;dumb&quot; rangefinders -- it is the superposition of two offset images that make it a rangefinder. The two images, usually a full viewfinder image in the &quot;through&quot; path and a much smaller secondary image viewed through a fixed prism (or partially silvered mirror) in the &quot;through&quot; finder and a dirigible mirror/prism behind a much smaller window some distance away form the baseline of a triangle. The focusing mechanism moves the dirigible mirror through a gear train as it extends/retracts the lens; focus is achieved when the two images are aligned." CreationDate="2011-01-15T10:55:10.380" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9166" PostId="7023" Text="Note, though, that shifts almost always require either some tilt or swing (a very minimal amount) for critical focus across the field. The process gets to be a bit of a pain in the butt, actually, since the tilt changes the perspective, which necessitates changing the POV somewhat, which changes the .... Having rear tilt/swing as well as front makes it a lot easier (which is probably why nobody uses a field camera for architecture if they have a choice)." CreationDate="2011-01-15T11:03:52.913" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9167" PostId="7023" Text="Oh, &quot;pain in the butt&quot; and &quot;movements&quot; go hand in hand." CreationDate="2011-01-15T12:42:59.720" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9169" PostId="6924" Text="I have a remote control.  Isn't that essentially the same thing?" CreationDate="2011-01-15T13:30:45.017" UserId="3181" />
  <row Id="9170" PostId="2429" Text="DX lens is lighter, cheaper and faster by a small amount. You also get full-time manual focus. I think the 35/1.8 is sharper than the 35/2 at f/2, but don't quote me on it! The DX lens seems to keep its value, so selling it if you move on to FX shouldn't be too hard (I got mine used)." CreationDate="2011-01-15T13:49:50.287" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9171" PostId="6992" Text="+1 for telling stories with pictures." CreationDate="2011-01-15T13:59:26.830" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="9172" PostId="6924" Text="@Ed01 - Yes, it is." CreationDate="2011-01-15T14:12:54.400" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9173" PostId="6914" Text="I'm curious, where will the camera be? It is attached to the roof/hood of the car? How is it powered? How does it not get stolen while you are sleeping or away from the car?" CreationDate="2011-01-15T14:14:18.377" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9174" PostId="5245" Text="Objective first, lens second." CreationDate="2011-01-15T14:41:14.503" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="9175" PostId="7006" Text="There are some things which are very different, like demosaicing algorithim." CreationDate="2011-01-15T16:08:45.937" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9176" PostId="7005" Score="3" Text="The first thing to know about raw is that raw is not an acronym and so doesn't need to be in all caps! Neither is it a proper noun (there is no single raw format) it's just a word that means the same as it does in the context of food, i.e. it's a raw image that needs to be cooked! " CreationDate="2011-01-15T16:38:43.123" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9177" PostId="7037" Text="Oh, indeed, forgot the rotating front element. +1" CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:32:51.733" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="9178" PostId="7038" Score="4" Text="Well, and to serve as a crumple zone when you drop the camera, lens first :-). Now I have a broken lens hood but a still working lens (without scratches even) and camera." CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:34:15.633" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="9179" PostId="7035" Text="I love that lens btw." CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:48:35.373" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9180" PostId="6955" Text="I would argue neither of those are available for a DSLR mount.  They're available for the rangefinder M mount :)" CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:03:18.717" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9181" PostId="7035" Score="2" Text="check out the great answers to one of my question about lens hoods http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5928/how-to-use-a-lens-hood" CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:05:42.783" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9182" PostId="7041" Text="I just tried an empty field in Lightroom 3, and it seems to be working as you &amp; I would expect: all photos without a setting on that field are being included. Is there a chance some other setting on your collection is tripping it up?" CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:12:28.193" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9183" PostId="7025" Text="True enough, although even there sharpening with a gradient mask can kind of give you a similar effect..." CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:15:33.240" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9184" PostId="7003" Text="I really, really like to just wander around new (to me) cities.  You can indeed find some amazing stuff that way." CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:17:42.397" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9185" PostId="6955" Text="True enough, although there are adapters." CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:19:12.447" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9186" PostId="7040" Score="1" Text="Well, seller's claims and reality may differ...." CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:27:56.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9187" PostId="7024" Text="Rangefinder focusing is fast and accurate since it is so easy to detect when the two images are superimposed. But usually does not allow interchangeable lenses." CreationDate="2011-01-15T20:43:52.073" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9188" PostId="7041" Text="@Craig: Lightroom 2 here. Sorry." CreationDate="2011-01-15T21:33:43.813" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="9189" PostId="7043" Text="Which is what I spent on LR2 already too (student version). I think I just do the workaround by selecting all photos and then refine using the filter bar." CreationDate="2011-01-15T21:49:41.013" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="9190" PostId="1270" Score="1" Text="It is a powerful exercise to have different people photograph the same subject, regardless of whether they are professional or amateur. It is surprising (and stimulating) to see the many different interpretations of the same subject. But, sticking to your question, the biggest difference between professionals and amateurs lies not so much in their cameras, but in their lighting and studio equipment. This is a decisive advantage for things like fashion photography." CreationDate="2011-01-15T22:08:19.130" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9191" PostId="5757" Score="1" Text="This is true, but it's *very* simple... You just have to decide for yourself if that is good." CreationDate="2011-01-15T22:23:18.360" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="9192" PostId="7044" Score="2" Text="I'm not going to pretend I understand this article after getting home on a saturday night, but it should help you a bunch: http://www.stacken.kth.se/~maxz/defocuscontrol/" CreationDate="2011-01-15T22:36:02.857" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9193" PostId="7045" Score="1" Text="I'm sorry, I don't have an answer, I just want to say I wish more tools accepted real SQL as a query language ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-15T23:00:09.797" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9195" PostId="7045" Text="I racked my brains but I can't figure out a way to do this; the filtering syntax seems too limited. :-\" CreationDate="2011-01-16T01:52:15.450" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9196" PostId="7046" Score="1" Text="Interesting to note also how in the soft-focus image, the bokeh of the background highlights is not a flat, uniform disk, but rather brighter near the circumference, which is a real-life demonstration of the principle explained above." CreationDate="2011-01-16T01:55:37.830" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9197" PostId="7045" Text="More digging: It seems that in LR3 there's no way to filter for &quot;contains tags that are not X&quot;; you can only do  &quot;does not contain tag X&quot;. Without the former, there's no way to achieve what you're looking for." CreationDate="2011-01-16T02:50:00.580" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9198" PostId="7053" Score="5" Text="&quot;made its way to me&quot;? - I wish a $900 piece of equipment would randomly show up at my doorstep. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-16T02:58:50.853" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9199" PostId="7052" Text="My kit lens hasn't seen camera time since I got this lens actually." CreationDate="2011-01-16T03:05:40.267" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9200" PostId="7046" Score="5" Text="For those who will inevitably ask, permission was requested and given for use of the latter two images. " CreationDate="2011-01-16T04:59:22.427" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9201" PostId="7048" Text="Take a look at the Zeiss Planar T* 50mm F/1.4 for another way to _not_ save money with a third-party 50mm f/1.4 lens. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-16T06:06:00.207" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9202" PostId="7047" Text="Good answer. My gut-feeling is that dye-sub is of a somewhat dy(e)ing breed because of all the topics you covered + paper size range and price per print which both are usually superior on an inkjet (in a good way). I'm tempted at the hassle-freeness (a cassette contains both the dyes and the papers) and the starting cost (ie. printer price) - but I'm unsure how the prints look, especially B&amp;W since there's no black dye. It could be reasonable to save money for a good inkjet and meanwhile order my prints from a local print house; this would solve the problem but wouldn't answer the question." CreationDate="2011-01-16T09:13:50.437" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9203" PostId="6715" Text="sometimes too much thinking just confuses things doesn't it!!" CreationDate="2011-01-16T11:50:29.793" UserId="2973" />
  <row Id="9204" PostId="7062" Score="3" Text="And the L stands for... Luxury." CreationDate="2011-01-16T13:09:34.610" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9205" PostId="7062" Score="1" Text="I think officially it does not stand for anything. " CreationDate="2011-01-16T13:45:57.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9206" PostId="7005" Score="3" Text="@Matt Grum - you may be right, but the camera manufacturers themselves are disagreeing with you!" CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:19:18.660" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9207" PostId="6967" Text="Thanks all. All good answers. Accepted top voted. " CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:21:40.047" UserId="1015" />
  <row Id="9208" PostId="6346" Text="Ended up making my own.  A fully functional one can be put together for about $10 with a little bit of electronics knowledge.  Everything else available seemed way overpriced for what they did." CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:24:45.457" UserId="907" />
  <row Id="9209" PostId="7064" Score="1" Text="Originally L simply stood for Fluor which is more sensitive to heat than glass which is why the lenses were painted white." CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:48:29.397" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9210" PostId="7068" Text="I did want to move the photos as well as the catalog. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:48:56.390" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9211" PostId="7062" Score="2" Text="From Canon documentaion itself (http://software.canon-europe.com/files/documents/EF_Lens_Work_Book_2_EN.pdf) it seems they give an answer to this: **And an L for “luxury.”** (page 15)." CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:56:30.880" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="9212" PostId="7064" Score="1" Text="And not all the L lenses are white. Smaller ones (in term of focal length) are also black but keep the red ring (16-35 and 24-105 for example)" CreationDate="2011-01-16T14:59:20.360" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="9213" PostId="7045" Text="Also there's the obvious missing functionality, &quot;keyword *equals* X&quot; -- you can find keywords containing X, but if you have keywords &quot;peanut&quot; and &quot;peanut butter&quot; you cannot find only the exact match &quot;peanut&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-16T15:59:05.563" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="9214" PostId="7072" Score="1" Text="Yes. For example, on my Canon 100-400L, I have the possibility to set the focus range from 1,80-&gt;infinity or 6,50-&gt;infinity. If I know my subject is more than 6 meters away, I will choose the second option which will tell the focus to not try to catch something closer than that, which will end up in a faster focusing and will more often catch what you want and not a closer object which is in the way." CreationDate="2011-01-16T16:47:25.210" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="9215" PostId="7062" Text="I guess it's more important to sound right than to have correct info." CreationDate="2011-01-16T17:02:25.480" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9216" PostId="7052" Text="That's good to know. I have changed my mind from the Nikon lens to the Sigma based on these answers and the images you posted in chat. (I thought you were using the nikon 50mm f/1.4 when you posted the images.) " CreationDate="2011-01-16T17:20:01.863" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9217" PostId="7052" Text="Ah, good!  Well, I'm sure you won't be disappointed, its a great lens." CreationDate="2011-01-16T17:27:47.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9218" PostId="7047" Score="1" Text="Well, if the dye sub printer does not contain any black dye, then there is no way it will come close to the pure grayscale quality of an ink jet with a two or three level gray ink system. You do need a true black ink to create a black color, blending CMY together creates a muddy dark brownish or slightly greenish color. Not really flattering for B&amp;W prints." CreationDate="2011-01-16T18:14:40.657" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9219" PostId="7074" Score="2" Text="Whilst a useful link, it might be useful to summarise that to make your post a true **answer**, for which you can then earn reputation" CreationDate="2011-01-16T18:25:07.343" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9220" PostId="7076" Score="3" Text="Hi John, mind not using ALLCAPS? On the internet this means your yelling your text, you don't want to shout this question, right?" CreationDate="2011-01-16T18:59:04.423" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="9221" PostId="7076" Text="Davy has a point. I've fixed the text, but please bear this in mind for the future." CreationDate="2011-01-16T19:06:30.883" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9223" PostId="7053" Text="Hmmm; although mac-only software won't be of use to you, it might be to someone. In which case we might as well not tag this post with any particular OS....." CreationDate="2011-01-16T19:23:41.610" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9224" PostId="7076" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6908/canon-sx30is-or-fuji-hs-10-hs-20 and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6731/best-long-zoom-digital-camera where I've added some answers, and some other cameras have been mentioned.  I haven't used the SX30IS but I was very happy with my SX10IS." CreationDate="2011-01-16T19:37:49.407" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9225" PostId="6703" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas I regularly make assumptions when answering questions, however I try not to be disparaging to the questioner as the result of these. Secondly, there are no typical weddings (I have photographed many, and these have been in hotels, registry offices, churches, monasteries and museums). In my wider experience of life in general people are all different, some are very demanding, some aren't. Of the people I count as friends I know who are and who aren't. Maybe we have a difference in culture here, but I know people who can't afford a pro and would be happy with what they got regardless!" CreationDate="2011-01-16T20:43:37.557" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9226" PostId="7077" Score="1" Text="I'm glad to hear it went well for you! " CreationDate="2011-01-16T20:45:49.500" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9227" PostId="6998" Text="Thanks, Aristos. Fixed it." CreationDate="2011-01-16T21:43:46.850" UserId="2720" />
  <row Id="9228" PostId="7053" Text="@rfusca- It's the first A55, the serial number is 1! Yes, ONE, preceded by a many zeros. It has been making the rounds among members of the press, so it's not entirely random, sorry." CreationDate="2011-01-16T22:03:08.923" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9229" PostId="7053" Score="1" Text="Maybe post a raw photo so I can see if any of my software knows what to do with the GPS info?" CreationDate="2011-01-16T22:04:26.823" UserId="3045" />
  <row Id="9230" PostId="7053" Text="@mattdm - Yeah, I had some doubts about asking for a platform-specific answer to get the one I needed, or asking for ALL possible answers and simply read the ones that are relevant. I chose the former, it will make the voting simpler and more inline with my needs." CreationDate="2011-01-16T22:05:17.733" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9231" PostId="7062" Text="L does indeed stand for &quot;luxury&quot;...I think it is rather appropriate, as Canon L-series lenses are pretty luxurious. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-16T23:39:04.993" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9232" PostId="5759" Text="I'm sorry but Lightroom vs Picasa? Maybe for editing JPEGs but for RAWs forget about it!" CreationDate="2011-01-16T23:43:48.577" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="9233" PostId="5799" Text="@Kevin: [cinepaint](http://www.cinepaint.org/) supports 16-bit RAW images, IIRC." CreationDate="2011-01-16T23:44:30.527" UserId="594" />
  <row Id="9234" PostId="7045" Text="Thanks guys, yes, I came to the same conclusions so far, but I figured I would still ask on photo.se, in case I really missed a ninja-trick. I'll have to write a plugin in my spare-time :)" CreationDate="2011-01-17T00:31:50.453" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="9235" PostId="7089" Text="+1 for mentioning the shadow. This is probably the one and only caveat of using a hood at low light!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T01:45:46.177" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9236" PostId="7087" Score="1" Text="I like to use a lens hood in crowded situations for a similar reason: preventing smudges from bumping into other people." CreationDate="2011-01-17T03:16:17.753" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9237" PostId="7098" Text="On top of that, I believe you also need to enable the shutter release by running a script.  I think you'd need to scroll through a menu or two each time you turn on the camera in order to start the shutter release script.  If the goal is to minimize the physical requirements needed to use the camera, CHDK might not be the answer." CreationDate="2011-01-17T04:27:20.173" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9238" PostId="7066" Text="well if budget wasn't an issue (which unfortunately is, for me) you should've gotten an L series telephoto prime. One thing I've learned about buying photo gears, in the end, you always get what you pay for. These ISO crops surely will tell you the story.&#xA;&#xA;http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=757&amp;Camera=453&amp;Sample=0&amp;FLI=4&amp;API=1&amp;LensComp=358&amp;CameraComp=453&amp;SampleComp=0&amp;FLIComp=4&amp;APIComp=0" CreationDate="2011-01-17T05:34:46.750" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="9239" PostId="7100" Score="1" Text="Your question currently doesn't make any sense as it is worded. Could you please edit it and clarify what you are asking?" CreationDate="2011-01-17T06:07:25.650" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9240" PostId="7102" Score="1" Text="See this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5283/how-to-start-learning-photography and this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2760/how-to-start-the-basics-of-photography-which-is-the-best-entry-level-slr-camera  and this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/164/what-are-your-easiest-beginner-tips   and then this should be closed as duplicate" CreationDate="2011-01-17T06:37:31.363" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9241" PostId="7102" Score="6" Text="The one thing you need to do to become a pro - start charging money for your photos." CreationDate="2011-01-17T06:41:08.793" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9242" PostId="7102" Text="On that note...this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2213/state-of-the-industry-distinction-between-amateurs-and-pros" CreationDate="2011-01-17T06:43:22.743" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9243" PostId="7106" Text="agreed with all above. I wore contacts for about 18 months, then went back to glasses full time. they simply weren't enough of an improvement for the hassles. " CreationDate="2011-01-17T08:16:26.953" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="9244" PostId="7106" Score="3" Text="I should also mention that my glasses are so thick that I literally can see through space-time. " CreationDate="2011-01-17T08:33:19.677" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="9245" PostId="5299" Text="@You, quite right that the focal length changes, but since it changes to around 75mm-80mm, it becomes a classic portrait focal length.  :-)  I will stop before I'm all gushing!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T09:54:04.677" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9246" PostId="6995" Text="Happy to help ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-17T09:54:30.930" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9247" PostId="6995" Text="@Jay, &quot;colour&quot; is the English spelling - if you don't &quot;correct&quot; mine, I won't correct yours!  ;) Well done spotting the typo, though  :)  PS. Contrags on recently passing me in rep :)  " CreationDate="2011-01-17T09:57:00.100" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9248" PostId="6779" Text="@che.  I quite agree.  Just sayin'" CreationDate="2011-01-17T09:59:13.373" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9249" PostId="7100" Score="3" Text="&quot;squaring up&quot; in some trades refers to making something straight, so I think the questioner is talking about rotating photos." CreationDate="2011-01-17T11:33:41.553" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9250" PostId="7060" Text="I can't access Flickr, but I'm thinking you're looking for something like this? http://abduzeedo.com/30-interesting-light-leak-shots" CreationDate="2011-01-17T12:32:51.363" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="9251" PostId="7108" Score="1" Text="&quot;I let my gf use my spare body when we are on travel&quot; like!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T12:45:04.617" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9252" PostId="7117" Text="What exactly is that lens? Sounds interesting!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T12:51:52.753" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9253" PostId="7108" Text="Agree that photographs of the photographer are unlikely to be disputed. It is the photo *after* that one, which is the concern." CreationDate="2011-01-17T12:54:00.943" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9254" PostId="7060" Text="Yes, exactly. Found the tutorial for them on the same site, too. If that was going to be your answer, please post it." CreationDate="2011-01-17T12:55:56.100" UserId="445" />
  <row Id="9255" PostId="7108" Text="I added an update to handle the situation where there is an agreement in place. Your girlfriend's situation is quite different to what I was thinking. As to people's personal responsibility for breakages, that comes under the &quot;many other issues&quot; that explicitly ignored." CreationDate="2011-01-17T12:58:34.663" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9256" PostId="7110" Text="Is that risk high enough to justify to yourself the refusal to lend your camera? (I appreciate this is a subjective question.)&#xA;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:00:37.080" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9257" PostId="7110" Score="2" Text="If you *knew* the photo was taken by the friend, I have to agree that his permission for the publication needs to be sought. Which doesn't mean you don't get a cut. After all, without your co-operation, he doesn't have any photo at all. One the tricky area is what if you think *you* took the picture? The other tricky area, it seems to me, is what permissions were implicitly given to you when the transaction was made." CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:03:21.507" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9258" PostId="7113" Score="2" Text="Great idea to take the book-end shots to make attribution much harder to dispute. How do you get the photos of you without those someones being involved? " CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:05:24.953" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9259" PostId="7124" Score="3" Text="Even if the 85/1.2 is heavy, it's also rather short. A telephoto with a longer barrel will exert more torque, given the same weight. This will of course lead to the user naturally supporting it with his or her hand, however, so the point it moot." CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:17:48.137" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9260" PostId="7124" Score="3" Text="There is however a maximum weight for a lens that is supported only by the mount, for example when used on a tripod without a collar, and this would be a useful thing to know. " CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:47:00.400" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9261" PostId="7091" Text="I was thinking about in camera image processing rather than correction using glass. It's the cost of all those correction lenses which we are trying to avoid." CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:47:44.197" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9262" PostId="7099" Text="mattdm, Your line about dpreview;&quot;and it's worth reading even if you don't like that site's reviews in general.&quot;, seems to imply you might not be a big fan of  their reviews. If so, why not? Just curious." CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:06:53.067" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9263" PostId="7091" Text="Right, but the right set of correction lenses might be a one off expense, as compared to using the same/similar lenses for everything." CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:09:37.727" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9264" PostId="7099" Text="Well, everyone always accuses them of bias whenever they print a review that says anything slightly negative of &quot;their&quot; brand of camera. But it's not that. The problem is: although they are a camera-oriented site, they are ultimately gadget-focused. The reviews focus on technical measurements, giving an aura of objectiveness. But there's problems.... " CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:16:00.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9265" PostId="7099" Text="First, the differences in these measurements in the objective sense is very small within a given generation of cameras, and the comparative reviews exaggerate them." CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:17:15.237" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9266" PostId="7099" Text="Second, there are subjective differences in handling and use which are actually very important to making a nice, polished camera, and since those are &quot;soft&quot;, they barely get talked about. The ergonomics and controls of the camera are _described_ but not reviewed." CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:18:38.997" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9267" PostId="7099" Text="Third, there are important measurable differences which don't get measured because they're not in the site's test suite. For example, color response gets a chart buried in the middle of the review, but not the charts-and graphs treatment. Or: spot-on auto white balance is a time-saver even when working in RAW, but at best that gets a line like &quot;Poor auto-wb, but that's normal&quot; in the &quot;cons&quot; section at the end." CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:23:01.080" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9268" PostId="7111" Text="Oh god, it burns!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T14:53:30.513" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9269" PostId="7133" Text="Harddrives are cheap, but my time to sort through 10000 bad images two years later, isn't." CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:16:06.937" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9270" PostId="7134" Score="13" Text="+1 &quot;only I find the cost of managing storage is not&quot; - indeed." CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:17:19.947" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9271" PostId="7117" Text="This is Granit-11N (Гранит-11Н). Strictly speaking it is not Nikon - it was produced for Kiev-17 film SLR, which in turn used copy of Nikon F mount. It is f/4.5 80-200mm zoom, with minimal focus distance of 1.5m. Here is how it looks ( photos are not mine - http://arsenal.co.ua/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/granit-11H-nikon-d50-2.jpg and http://arsenal.co.ua/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/granit-11H-nikon-d50-1.jpg )" CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:23:33.307" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="9272" PostId="7111" Score="4" Text="Those are lens flares, not light leaks.." CreationDate="2011-01-17T15:35:19.260" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="9273" PostId="7134" Text="Ditto, looking over my backups now *sigh*" CreationDate="2011-01-17T16:05:26.687" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9274" PostId="7134" Score="1" Text="+1 What good does it do me if I rarely delete pictures &quot;just in case&quot; when I end up with too many files to really make use of the good ones hiding in there?" CreationDate="2011-01-17T16:43:09.323" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="9275" PostId="7108" Text="@yasp: lol, well played good sir. Well played." CreationDate="2011-01-17T16:51:55.630" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="9276" PostId="6603" Text="Hypothesizing about what could be causing this is not beyond the possible (albeit far beyond my own capabilities). Someone could take a stab at this; a definitive answer, certainly, would only be forthcoming from a repair shop that could see the camera itself." CreationDate="2011-01-17T16:52:44.153" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9277" PostId="7112" Score="3" Text="It was my understanding that anything that can be seen and photographed from a public place was fair game, unless event organizers (e.g. sporting events, concerts, etc) had notified up front (with signage or notices on tickets) that this was not the case.  In essence, if one doesn't want his building photographed, one shouldn't build it outside :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:01:54.200" UserId="2190" />
  <row Id="9278" PostId="7138" Score="1" Text="This article is outrageously fabulous - and long and detailed. Definitely worth reading!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:14:56.630" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9279" PostId="7112" Text="Looks like my comment started something :)" CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:15:28.970" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9280" PostId="7112" Text="PS: &quot;The tall pyramid skyscraper&quot; is the Transamerica Pyramid." CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:18:15.053" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="9281" PostId="5736" Text="I'm not too fussed about looking at the source code, I've got my photographer hat on here not my developer hat." CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:15:57.373" UserId="2680" />
  <row Id="9282" PostId="7113" Text="+1 for bookend idea." CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:32:27.983" UserId="2680" />
  <row Id="9283" PostId="7141" Text="I have no real knowledge so I won't make this an answer... but I imagine that CSI photographers are more &quot;investigators with cameras&quot; than &quot;photographers working crime scenes&quot;. When you're just interested in documenting a scene (vs making it look nice), photography is pretty easy. Getting &quot;photographers&quot; with &quot;photography skills&quot; would detract from investigation training and/or cost more." CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:45:55.267" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9284" PostId="7142" Score="1" Text="Why? What's wrong with the current mosaic avatar?  ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:56:33.907" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9285" PostId="7144" Text="You can do specific photojournalism courses, at least in the UK. These would get you much further than a degree in fine art photography from an art school!" CreationDate="2011-01-17T18:57:27.657" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9286" PostId="2011" Score="1" Text="For more thoughts on &quot;the sharing culture online&quot;, I recommend a viewing of Larry Lessig's TED talk from 2007: http://www.ted.com/talks/larry_lessig_says_the_law_is_strangling_creativity.html" CreationDate="2011-01-17T19:03:14.250" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9291" PostId="7064" Text="@LudoMC: I've edited the answer, thanks for clarification." CreationDate="2011-01-17T19:29:31.770" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9293" PostId="5299" Text="@AJ: Agreed, excellent portrait lens, but it doesn't serve the same &quot;nifty-fifty&quot; purpose on crop. People keep forgetting this :)" CreationDate="2011-01-17T19:39:39.267" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="9297" PostId="7113" Text="Possession of the raw file is 9/10 of the law?  Definitely also +1 for the bookend idea.  As a working artist, though, I think you might successfully argue that having someone operate your camera is a legitimate artistic action, and still be able to claim that you 'created' the work. " CreationDate="2011-01-17T20:18:13.883" UserId="3296" />
  <row Id="9299" PostId="7134" Text="I seldom delete shots, because I hope that, one day, Google (or whatever society) will eventually provide us with a tool to get the best photos out of all my back-ups. Fast and easily. Just one word: computer vision." CreationDate="2011-01-17T20:25:24.980" UserId="1741" />
  <row Id="9300" PostId="7135" Score="2" Text="+1 for &quot;[y]our perspective changes with time&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-17T20:27:45.040" UserId="1741" />
  <row Id="9301" PostId="7133" Text="@rfusca: This is another problem, you can store easily, now just wait for a good computer tool to sort through the photos. " CreationDate="2011-01-17T20:30:08.610" UserId="1741" />
  <row Id="9302" PostId="1544" Text="Fresnels are not usually thought of as hard lenses." CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:16:57.877" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="9304" PostId="7133" Text="@wok - If a computer deems something as artistically or historically significant, it still doesn't mean I do." CreationDate="2011-01-17T21:56:45.223" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9305" PostId="7141" Text="As far as journalism goes, it really depends on where you live. The best thing to do is find someone where you live (or where you want to live) who works as a photojournalist and find out the kind of hours and assignments he/she works and for what kind of pay (if they are willing to say) and how they started. But I would imagine that a smart, young server admin could make more money than a smart, young photographer." CreationDate="2011-01-17T22:01:43.997" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="9306" PostId="7161" Text="BTW, I'm a software engineer who only had a couple years of college under his belt, no degree, and I rake in six figures a year. ;) Raw talent and hard work will get you farther than anything, but hard work will get you where you want to go, degree or not." CreationDate="2011-01-17T22:19:10.613" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9309" PostId="7113" Score="1" Text="@atroon That's actually a very interesting point, if you set up the camera, choose the shutter speed aperture and ISO, program the flash and do all the post processing, what does it matter who actually pressed the shutter button? I know people like Gregory Crewdson regard themselves as photographers even though they don't operate the camera themselves." CreationDate="2011-01-18T00:50:41.910" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9310" PostId="7175" Text="The questioner is asking about a macro lens so loss of infinity focus might not be a problem." CreationDate="2011-01-18T01:07:15.027" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9311" PostId="7175" Text="Yeah, but his alternative is a normal prime, so I'm not too sure." CreationDate="2011-01-18T01:10:29.273" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9312" PostId="7175" Text="I do both, and was examining them for different purposes. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-18T01:44:21.110" UserId="108" />
  <row Id="9313" PostId="7174" Text="I'm less interested in a general art history book and more in a resource that applies the historical art lessons to photography.  Otherwise, I've had a decent amount of general art history from other sources (university and private art lessons earlier in life)." CreationDate="2011-01-18T01:59:23.167" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9314" PostId="7176" Score="5" Text="Ask such a thing in a different question.  This is a question and answer style site, not a forum." CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:25:35.770" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9315" PostId="7130" Score="1" Text="+1 great question. I have 30,000 images on disk and just spent about 20 hours importing them into Lightroom 3.3, and have resolved to start being ruthless with &quot;delete from disk&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-18T03:14:04.743" UserId="492" />
  <row Id="9316" PostId="7134" Text="+1 see my comment to the OP" CreationDate="2011-01-18T03:14:37.177" UserId="492" />
  <row Id="9318" PostId="7175" Text="A list of mounts that you can adapt to EOS is available at http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html (I have M42, Nikon, and T adapters)." CreationDate="2011-01-18T05:22:30.467" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9319" PostId="7158" Text="Is that true, that it could be asked of any college degree?  I know that in biology, for instance, you need access to a lab and some (not cheap) chemicals in order to do modern molecular biology, in biomedical physics you need access to the equipment-- school in those areas offer access to established setups.  Is that not true in photography, or with the advent of digital, access to labs isn't that important anymore?" CreationDate="2011-01-18T05:57:27.503" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9320" PostId="7179" Score="1" Text="Are you sure that the spec means &quot;the direction that you were facing&quot; by 'orientation'?  When I hear 'orientation' my first thought is, &quot;did I have my camera held in landscape or portrait mode.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-18T06:13:39.747" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9321" PostId="7053" Text="+1 to wallyk's question: please post a photo somewhere with all the EXIF data intact for the rest of us to play with!" CreationDate="2011-01-18T06:19:18.553" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9322" PostId="6985" Text="On the other hand you will be able to find AA batteries pretty much anywhere, while it is not always possible to charge LiIon battery when you are on trip to remote area." CreationDate="2011-01-18T08:09:54.733" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="9323" PostId="7184" Text="Thanks for the good feedback, practice with steam sounds like a good idea." CreationDate="2011-01-18T09:31:20.760" UserId="2711" />
  <row Id="9324" PostId="7154" Text="Fantastic.  Thank you for answering.  I don't suppose you have posted the instructions online anywhere?  (Flickr forums might be a good place, or even include them in your answer here)" CreationDate="2011-01-18T11:11:29.090" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9325" PostId="7158" Score="1" Text="I think you've missunderstood the entry above. Given internet and a lot of free time (and a lab), you could probably learn biology to some degree all by yourself, but someone with a degree in biology will still know a lot more of all the things covered in the list than someone self-taught." CreationDate="2011-01-18T11:37:28.747" UserId="2017" />
  <row Id="9326" PostId="7170" Text="Great answer. Makes a lot of sense. I agree completely about our fixation on gear. Learning to express  effectively seems to be the thing thats difficult to teach your yourself." CreationDate="2011-01-18T11:56:02.357" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9327" PostId="7195" Score="3" Text="Per our [FAQ](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) states that questions regarding unreleased equipment are not generally accepted on the site." CreationDate="2011-01-18T12:32:43.670" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9328" PostId="7190" Score="1" Text="Beautiful examples!" CreationDate="2011-01-18T12:33:02.400" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9329" PostId="7106" Text="It might be worth noting that the diopter adjustment in a viewfinder is for spherical correction only; if you have significant astigmatism, the viewfinder adjustment won't help with that part." CreationDate="2011-01-18T13:41:36.317" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9331" PostId="7179" Text="Yes, the compass orientation is recorded as well. There are currently 4 cameras that do that: Casio H20G, Fuji F550 EXR, Sony SLT-A55 and Sony HX5." CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:14:54.810" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9332" PostId="7202" Text="Can you add the exact lens type please?" CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:18:41.697" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9333" PostId="5256" Text="This seems to be the go-to lens for wedding and portrait photogs. The IS version especially for indoor / low light shooting." CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:24:39.603" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="9334" PostId="7185" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7016" CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:38:50.237" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9335" PostId="7199" Text="Glasses question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6885/what-are-some-effective-techniques-for-photographing-subjects-who-wear-glasses/6887#6887" CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:58:19.980" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9336" PostId="7207" Text="it needs to be software that allows users to select photos for purchase that goes into an order queue which is then processed upon payment.  " CreationDate="2011-01-18T15:48:05.470" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="9337" PostId="7170" Text="daft question: what is CS?" CreationDate="2011-01-18T15:49:26.683" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9338" PostId="7161" Text="Point well made - I wasn't going to agree, but your answer brought me round.  +1" CreationDate="2011-01-18T15:52:41.873" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9339" PostId="7170" Score="2" Text="Computer Science, I assume." CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:07:02.160" UserId="445" />
  <row Id="9340" PostId="7158" Text="Yes, but the 'given a lab' is only a given at a university or similarly equipped environment (ie, you get hired as a tech with no experience by a very understanding boss who will let you learn on the job, not very likely given the cheapness of undergrad labor). These things cost in the tens of thousands, at least, to equip and to maintain, plus the cost of space and so forth.  It's not so easy to just assume you'll have access, because chances are you won't.  I'm asking if that's the same in photography, but I assume it isn't." CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:12:00.993" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9341" PostId="7170" Text="@jfd-- that's what I thought too." CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:12:19.307" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9342" PostId="7213" Text="No, the L110 had 12x or 15x optical zoom.  It's basically an SLR with a big lens.  What I noticed was that, even with image stabilisation, there was a greater chance of having grainy or blurry pictures when zoomed." CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:12:48.237" UserId="3322" />
  <row Id="9343" PostId="7106" Text="&gt;&gt; No. Every DSLR body I've used comes with the ability to change the diopter of the viewfinder which may allow you to use your camera without your glasses.&#xA;&#xA;Excuse the pun, but I completely overlooked this feature for years on my camera.  Now I've found it / started using it I find the benefits outweigh continually having to put on/remove my glasses whilst looking through the camera." CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:50:32.980" UserId="1271" />
  <row Id="9344" PostId="7209" Score="3" Text="The price range is $5 to $10,000+, depending on what compromises you're willing to accept." CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:53:27.557" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9345" PostId="7207" Text="@Canon Gangsta: does it? Why? This seems like a very useful suggestion. Even if you want a kiosk-based ordering system, having a way for your customers to get image ID numbers before they get to the kiosk, and then typing them in to verify, makes sense as being a useful thing to me... Though there are other possibilities... (more to come in an answer from me, hopefully, when I'm at a real computer.)" CreationDate="2011-01-18T16:56:02.560" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9346" PostId="7213" Text="You'll definitely get blurrier pictures when at high zoom, even with image stabilization. This is because the angle of view is so small; any movement in the camera translates to a large movement in the field of view. IS helps reduce that, but even expensive/professional cameras &amp; lenses have this problem." CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:11:53.680" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9347" PostId="7213" Text="I'm not sure why the zoom would effect the graininess/noise though. Perhaps the camera was compensating for the zoom by increasing the shutter speed, and had to boost the ISO to compensate?" CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:13:02.530" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9349" PostId="7211" Text="FWIW, @whuber's answer about &quot;sensel&quot; size is more accurate." CreationDate="2011-01-18T18:10:04.110" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9350" PostId="7053" Text="Upon request :) - Sample JPEG image straight from the Sony Alpha SLT-A55: http://www.neocamera.com/review/sony/a55/samples/DSC00032.JPG" CreationDate="2011-01-18T18:14:32.403" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9352" PostId="7169" Text="How is the theory not learnable from, say, a text book? It's fine if you hold that it is, just please explain the difference, if you do. " CreationDate="2011-01-18T19:21:01.687" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9353" PostId="7166" Text="ahockley: why this edit to the title, if I may ask? Preview images are not thumbnails, they can actually be very high resolution (think cache). That's why, I assume, he is trying to recover them, to get something as close to the lost original as possible. Answer to this question can be used to extract much more than a small picture." CreationDate="2011-01-18T19:26:17.150" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="9354" PostId="7169" Text="lindes: the self-taught photographer usually starts by taking pictures, and not by reading a book or learning theory. So, theory can be self-taught, yes, but it's rarely so." CreationDate="2011-01-18T19:56:50.387" UserId="3231" />
  <row Id="9355" PostId="7199" Text="Strobist has some [tips on lighting](http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/07/lighting-102-unit-22-specular-highlight.html). (Scroll down below the last photo)" CreationDate="2011-01-18T20:07:29.397" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9356" PostId="7197" Text="By my calculation, 10 * 10 = 100" CreationDate="2011-01-18T20:48:10.563" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9357" PostId="7197" Text="Indeed it does. I typed out the answer on my phone which autocorrects &quot;100&quot; to &quot;1000&quot;. Most. Annoying. Thing. Ever." CreationDate="2011-01-18T20:57:18.447" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9358" PostId="7220" Text="yeah it's totally misleading these days, since &quot;single&quot; in Single Lens Reflex refers to there only being one lens on the camera, amd Twin Lens Reflexes died out about forty years ago..." CreationDate="2011-01-18T21:02:15.897" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9359" PostId="7221" Text="You can argue that the &quot;reflex&quot; in SLR stands for the pentaprism or [Porro prism](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porro_prism)..." CreationDate="2011-01-18T21:11:52.143" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9360" PostId="5256" Text="Yes, for candids in a crowd situation they are awesome. Some of my favorite individual candids were shot with mine." CreationDate="2011-01-18T22:18:12.167" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="9362" PostId="7053" Text="The location information appears to be off by about 430 yards.  Is that typical accuracy for that camera?  Is there a different (more accurate (I assume also more power-hungry)) GPS mode?" CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:13:00.920" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9363" PostId="7115" Text="Why did you make your answer community wiki?" CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:16:53.777" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9364" PostId="7089" Text="Thanks! I am going to accept your answer, but maybe for completeness you could edit it and add what @Len Abrams said about long exposures? (give him credit of course :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:17:48.343" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9365" PostId="7179" Text="There is an EXIF tag in the file you shared labelled &quot;Direction of movement&quot; (0x000f) and it has a value of 94.41 (I assume that's in degrees, so East?).  But that is certainly different that orientation!  If its name accurately describes its behavior, it would only be useful if you take pictures pointed in the direction in which you were moving.  There is also a tag &quot;Orientation&quot; and its value is &quot;top - left&quot; so I think that is more likely landscape vs. portrait.  No EXIF tag includes &quot;compass&quot; in its label.  You might try some experiments with 'exif -l' and 'exif -t 0x000f filename'" CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:20:03.003" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9366" PostId="7217" Text="I would clarify the maximum ISO speed a bit. You have `actual` ISO, and `expanded` ISO. Actual ISO is an amplified analog signal, while expanded ISO is usually achieved via digital trickery, rather than via a real signal. A camera capable of an actual ISO 1600 is going to perform less than a camera capable of ISO 6400. However, a camera that can do a maximum ISO 102400 vs. a camera that can do a maximum ISO of 25600 will still likely perform the same at an *actual* ISO of 6400." CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:21:15.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9367" PostId="7204" Text="Of course Omar, I'm also a rookie, and we do a lot silly mistakes, but thanks for sharing the experience." CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:41:34.760" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9368" PostId="7053" Text="@drewbenn - How did you assess the accuracy? I used Geotag to visualize the coordinates and it seems accurate. There is a note in the manual that says accuracy is diminished near tall-buildings, which is NOT the case for this photo. The camera also supports the use of GPS assist data which must be downloaded onto the camera each month (more or less). I have not tried it yet." CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:41:43.980" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9369" PostId="7186" Text="thanks for sharing your view, i've got kit lens where I want to try this to, I'll keep in mind about the rotating front element, it's make a sense because the converter/adapter surely quite heavy for AF motor should not design for that." CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:45:22.307" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9370" PostId="7053" Text="I looked at the exif data, and it says Latitude is &quot;45.00, 30.00, 32.27&quot; and Longitude is &quot;73.00, 33.00, 6.77&quot; (other fields indicate N and W).  45+30/60+.01*32.27/60=45.505378. 73+33/60+.01*6.77/60=73.551128.  I plugged 45.505378, -73.551128 into google maps, and looked up that building, and used the ruler tool (from labs) to measure from the point I calculated to the front of that building: got about 430 yards.  I'm just guessing on those calculations, though, really; if you know of a more correct way to use those numbers I'd love to hear it." CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:56:48.010" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9374" PostId="7222" Score="2" Text="Check out the great answers I got to a similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6376/other-than-the-imac-whats-a-brilliant-display-for-my-images" CreationDate="2011-01-19T03:08:58.213" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9375" PostId="7222" Score="1" Text="Yes, go visit @kacalapy's question. It has something these answers lack: hope and suggestions about how the problem can be fixed. Your desktop *can* display as well as the iMac, with the right screen." CreationDate="2011-01-19T03:25:34.760" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9376" PostId="7217" Text="@jrista Thank you for amplifying so knowledgeably on a subject that I merely hinted at." CreationDate="2011-01-19T03:40:56.447" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9378" PostId="7222" Text="@Odd, I fear that is not true unless the OP buys a new display for the Dell. There are distinct differences among displays and iMacs have pretty nice ones." CreationDate="2011-01-19T04:03:39.150" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9380" PostId="7053" Text="@drewbenn - I assume Geotag does pretty much the same but it got me right in front of center of the building (on the correct side) which is where the photo was taken. Here's the link software: http://geotag.sourceforge.net" CreationDate="2011-01-19T04:26:19.633" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9381" PostId="7224" Text="The Sigma 8-16 is amazing, and sharper than the 10-20.  It may also be out of his price range though." CreationDate="2011-01-19T05:25:58.397" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9382" PostId="7201" Text="Excuse my ignorance, I've found two questions about the gray-card, but how do you actually 'use' one? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7233/how-do-you-use-a-gray-card" CreationDate="2011-01-19T05:42:26.543" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="9383" PostId="1687" Score="2" Text="On the one hand, you may want something that makes your photos look better... on the other hand, you might want something that makes them look the same as most other people will see them (on your blog/flickr stream/etc). I tend to think the former is better (since there's just too much variation in the latter), but its definitely worth thinking about whether you want others to see it how you see it or whether you just want to see them looking &quot;right&quot; yourself." CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:02:44.730" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="9384" PostId="7237" Text="Sorry, what does &quot;set your exposure such that that is 'properly exposed'&quot; mean? Visually comparing the result of the camera with the colour of the card?" CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:09:33.647" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="9385" PostId="7053" Text="Thanks, that showed me what I was doing wrong (the calculation is /60/60 for seconds instead of *.01/60)." CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:10:07.937" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9386" PostId="7237" Text="Most in camera meters are pretty simple affairs... they have a bar like -2...-1...0...1...2 with a pointer under it, or on it. By that, I mean make it hit zero." CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:15:01.720" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="9387" PostId="1687" Score="2" Text="Duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1687/monitor-for-photo-processing" CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:15:23.560" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9388" PostId="7233" Text="FYI, please start &quot;accepting&quot; answers on some of your questions if you feel they have been correctly answered." CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:22:12.820" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9389" PostId="1687" Text="Thanks for pointing out the duplicate, I didn't find it the first time." CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:23:48.497" UserId="415" />
  <row Id="9390" PostId="7232" Text="Can you write up somewhere what you did?" CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:27:21.877" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9391" PostId="1687" Text="You should look for &quot;TFT central&quot; on google!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T06:36:21.477" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9392" PostId="5563" Score="1" Text="This is an excellent answer, made better since. Green tick for you, sir!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T07:40:07.803" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="9393" PostId="7233" Text="@rfusca, thanks for the reminder." CreationDate="2011-01-19T07:40:40.737" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="9394" PostId="7232" Score="2" Text="Right here in the answer would be a nice &quot;somewhere&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-19T07:53:42.910" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9395" PostId="7232" Text="+1 for @Evan as I too would like the schematic and overview to build my own" CreationDate="2011-01-19T08:20:50.240" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="9396" PostId="7234" Text="In addition to your references, here's a w3 schools reading companion I recently stumbled upon: http://w3fools.com/" CreationDate="2011-01-19T09:36:50.483" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9397" PostId="863" Text="Just a note that Digimarc isn't an image tracking service that tracks based on meta-data.  Digimarc For Images (DFI) embeds digital watermarks that are not visible to the naked eye.  The watermark can survive some extent of cropping and photo resizing.  Their service tracks images based on this embedded digital watermark rather than exif data." CreationDate="2011-01-19T09:39:14.020" UserId="2953" />
  <row Id="9401" PostId="7186" Text="@Nazmin - I actually think that the weight of that converter will NOT be a problem for your lens. What I was saying is that when you put it on or take it off your lens, switch the lens from auto to manual focus mode. This way the AF motor is disengaged and the moment you apply will not hurt it. Note that if your lens has a Full-Time-Manual AF mode, then this is not a problem - but I don't think there are USM FTM lenses with a rotating element anyway." CreationDate="2011-01-19T12:14:45.957" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9402" PostId="1687" Text="@drfrogsplat - +1 for the comment, however, I think that in the long term, the high quality displays will become the mainstream. Preparing your photos for publishing in high quality will make them more future-proof." CreationDate="2011-01-19T12:19:48.713" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9403" PostId="7222" Text="@Reid, yes, we are agreeing. The Dell desktop can display nice images with the right display. It isn't a fundamental issue with Windows or Dell; it is an issue of which display has been purchased. I am using a nice Dell-branded LCD display which I paid a little more for." CreationDate="2011-01-19T13:11:31.933" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9404" PostId="7247" Text="This what I want to do but lack the discipline ;) At least I do the first 3 with a few extra keywords for odd thinks like Abstract, Textures, Panoramas and Sources (for panoramas or HDR)." CreationDate="2011-01-19T14:56:39.430" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9405" PostId="7245" Score="1" Text="One suggestion might be to get a good Lightroom book if you really want to dive into all of the various Develop settings.  I'm a big fan of Scott Kelby's Lightroom 3 book: http://amzn.to/gapwMY  Of course, if you have questions about specific settings, you can ask here, but &quot;what do all the develop settings mean&quot; is kind of broad for a question here." CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:11:56.660" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="9406" PostId="7247" Text="It takes a lot of time; I generally only tag really seriously for stuff that will be on sale or which is particularly good. But I am trying to geotag and person-tag everything, as those are what I tend to search for most often. " CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:30:11.480" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="9411" PostId="7009" Text="A Kingston 8Gb class 6 SDHC." CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:50:50.853" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="9412" PostId="7247" Score="1" Text="I think this is a great answer, a good start." CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:54:18.637" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="9413" PostId="7015" Text="OK. I think I should set up a controlled test and try with a bunch of different cards to narrow down the problem. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-19T15:55:24.280" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="9414" PostId="7105" Text="I'm not (ISO was 200-400 in my tests), but useful to know that it comes on automatically." CreationDate="2011-01-19T16:01:17.513" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="9415" PostId="7013" Text="I'm going to find some other cards and make a test. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-19T16:01:48.763" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="9416" PostId="7250" Score="1" Text="Next time or if you see one, buy card reader. They are really cheap (under $10 for single-format), much faster and don't use the camera's batteries. They also avoid these sorts of problems because you card shows up as a normal drive in all cases." CreationDate="2011-01-19T16:27:06.100" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9417" PostId="7253" Text="It is actually not that simple. It happens that under Win XP, plugging in the 7D does not provide you with a virtual drive letter to browse the files while connected to the camera. You need to use either EOS Utility or a card reader." CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:02:58.213" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9418" PostId="7254" Text="It never stops to amaze me what people succeed doing while hacking their system. It is amusing to think that companies are still trying to protect and hide their system internals from hackers..." CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:05:57.040" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9419" PostId="5563" Text="Hehee, thank you @Benjol. Did it work? Were you motivated to go beyond being a &quot;point-and-shooter&quot;, as you originally said it? I hope it at least helped. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:17:41.240" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9420" PostId="7259" Score="1" Text="While you happen to be trying to automate Photoshop, this is really more of an AppleScript question and is probably better suited for a different StackExchange site such as SuperUser or the Mac site." CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:28:54.073" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="9421" PostId="7253" Text="I was assuming he was using a card reader actually as the windows interface doesn't even let you copy raw files!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:41:45.220" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9423" PostId="7262" Text="a &quot;ph balance of 0&quot; is EXTREMELY acidic..." CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:53:40.010" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9425" PostId="1687" Text="You can get a better display than the iMac as long as money is not a factor.&#xA;&#xA;Take a look at the great answers I got to almost this exact question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6376/other-than-the-imac-whats-a-brilliant-display-for-my-images&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-19T18:57:06.433" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9426" PostId="7268" Score="1" Text="What operating system(s) are you using?" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:09:44.797" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9427" PostId="7268" Text="Windows 7, which does have some compatibility options" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:10:32.347" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="9428" PostId="7269" Text="Well, it's a start, but not quite as user-friendly as I had in mind. Thanks, though." CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:45:19.307" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="9429" PostId="7271" Text="This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:48:29.693" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="9430" PostId="7260" Score="1" Text="+1, most impressive" CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:49:03.437" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9431" PostId="7269" Text="Itai's answer (exposure plot) looks much more user friendly, but I think it may be jpeg only? I may try both later. If I do, I can write up a short guide on how to get exiftool working. " CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:50:04.340" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9432" PostId="7268" Text="This question is substantially like http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/5311/1356 ." CreationDate="2011-01-19T19:59:23.897" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9433" PostId="7268" Text="I think you're right - should they be merged?  I'm sorry about the duplicate question, but I think the title of that question wasn't very clear." CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:05:57.563" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="9434" PostId="6952" Text="Awesome, thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:11:30.163" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="9435" PostId="7053" Text="@drewbenn - Thanks for reporting back. I'm still making slow progress with this, so discounting issues is important." CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:36:46.147" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9436" PostId="6816" Score="1" Text="Wow!  That is a spectacular picture." CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:52:43.617" UserId="168" />
  <row Id="9437" PostId="7273" Score="2" Text="I've found that TinEye is less than reliable - it couldn't find where [my photo had been used by the Daily Mail (without permission)](http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-564307/Peregrine-falcons-return-breed-time-200-years.html)" CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:54:41.140" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9438" PostId="7070" Text="Thanks for this info!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T21:05:13.017" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9439" PostId="7273" Score="1" Text="Ya, I've seen accounts of mixed results, I just don't know of anything better.  Its not perfect, thats for sure." CreationDate="2011-01-19T21:12:42.240" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9440" PostId="7270" Text="Wow, I guess that fits the bill as exotic. I guess I should have clarified that I was thinking more along the lines of firmware hack, but this looks interesting.  Thanks for the tip!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T21:39:53.297" UserId="3224" />
  <row Id="9441" PostId="7219" Text="More discussion about this name at http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/212/evil-camera-class" CreationDate="2011-01-19T22:12:57.820" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="9442" PostId="7252" Text="Ah, I hadn't found the stack feature - I think I'll give that a go." CreationDate="2011-01-19T22:42:41.873" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="9443" PostId="7089" Text="Lens hood can throw shadow even when not using the flash, when you're shooting from a very close distance." CreationDate="2011-01-19T22:46:11.277" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9444" PostId="7275" Text="WOW, &quot;50%&quot; is rather healthy cut (check the pricing page).  Not saying its unfair, just a bit stunned." CreationDate="2011-01-19T22:53:25.730" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9445" PostId="5082" Text="I would call this a long exposure. Normal exposure is typically under one second. This looks to be a couple of seconds at the very least." CreationDate="2011-01-19T23:02:46.643" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9446" PostId="7260" Text="My first six months of photography (late 2010) are in a separate catalog but for this new 2011 catalog file, I'm inspired to go back while it's early in the year and do this. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-19T23:10:43.843" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9447" PostId="7250" Text="Would it help to delete the file that you've already managed to retrieve from the camera, using the camera's own browsing interface to delete the image?" CreationDate="2011-01-19T23:51:23.557" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="9448" PostId="7275" Text="Well if you had never found it it would be 0%. Also, it allows you to get proper attribution, which is worth something. I think this service may be more useful to professionals than tineye because it limits its scope to websites that are profiting off your photo. Who cares if some small blog links to your photo? Tineye tries to do too much, and I think it does a poor job because of this.   " CreationDate="2011-01-20T00:50:07.457" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9449" PostId="5312" Text="You may be able to run it under WINE." CreationDate="2011-01-20T01:01:55.640" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="9450" PostId="7269" Text="If you want to go the exiftool route, I have a script that may help; see http://reidster.net/software/" CreationDate="2011-01-20T01:34:48.117" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9451" PostId="7243" Text="Can I upvote this question twice? :)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T01:35:16.370" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9452" PostId="7278" Text="Great answers folks!" CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:28:03.980" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9453" PostId="7275" Text="@rm999 - I didn't say it was unfair...just didn't expect that is all." CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:34:45.033" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9454" PostId="7285" Text="thanks dude, you have give useful info indeed." CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:43:11.013" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9455" PostId="7285" Text="There are some practical problems which keep Foveon from reaching nirvana. Some good comments here: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/09/huge-new-foveon.html?cid=6a00df351e888f88340133f46d9bfa970b#comment-6a00df351e888f88340133f46d9bfa970b" CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:52:35.367" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9456" PostId="7275" Text="Technically, if a small blog is stealing your photo, you can still sue them. It's a bit mean, but... I look at it like this though, 100% of $0 is still $0..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T02:53:48.003" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9457" PostId="7285" Text="@mattdm - The commentary is interesting, but it's worth noting that much will be coming from people that aren't physicists and so may not either fully understand or be aware of some of the more intense aspects of the science. I don't pretend to either, despite having studied physics for a couple of years in university, so I'm really more interested in the real world results Sigma produces from this." CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:04:16.040" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9458" PostId="7282" Text="+1 - Certainly a more detailed an explanation than mine." CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:06:48.893" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9459" PostId="7285" Score="1" Text="In the real world, foveon photos don't really look that much different than bayer photos. Color saturation is similar, perhaps a tad better blues. One of the primary differences is the lack of color moire in Foveon, and another is the relatively low image pixel count (14mp is the largest Foveon, while we are pushing 24mp and beyond with bayer FF, 80mp with MF.) It should be noted that monochrome moire is NOT eliminated on foveon (only color moire)! Any device that has a limited resolution will encounter moire when imaging frequencies beyond its nyquist limit, including a Foveon. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:15:38.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9460" PostId="7025" Text="If by &quot;a similar effect&quot;, you mean &quot;not at all the same thing&quot;..then sure. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:22:17.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9461" PostId="7285" Score="2" Text="@jrista-- I couldn't disagree with you more about the look and feel of Foveon images.  I have a dp2 and a nikon d300, and have produced 13x19 prints with both cameras (using full-chip images from both).  First, no one can tell that they are taken at different resolutions, and second, people can definitely tell that they are different cameras.  The saturations are different, the detail resolution is different-- the feel is just different.  Some people prefer the d300, others the dp2-- my walls have become a bit of a Rorschach test for sensor style." CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:23:50.523" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9462" PostId="7215" Text="The meter doesn't look for white skin, it looks to expose middle tone." CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:34:39.027" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="9463" PostId="7287" Text="I love it when people downvote and don't explain why." CreationDate="2011-01-20T04:04:54.000" UserId="2474" />
  <row Id="9464" PostId="7285" Score="2" Text="@jrista - I don't agree. First, I don't think 14mp is &quot;low&quot; on an APS-C sensor, heck Nikon is pushing a 12mp full frame camera and it's getting stunning reviews. Evidence, yet again, that the megapixel count isn't the whole story. Second, the Foveon technology is in infancy compared to the Bayer model and is producing at least as good a result and, in some cases, better. That's darn exciting. Let's not get wedded to a technology here, Sigma may yet produce something better than Kodak has and that's a good thing." CreationDate="2011-01-20T04:10:43.727" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9465" PostId="7025" Text="It can be similar because with selective gradient sharpening you can make the plane of focus appear to extend in ways that are not a flat plane in front of the camera.  It's not quite the same but would give a similar impression.  People good with Photoshop have been playing tricks like this for years.  It's no replacement for the real thing but you seriously underestimate what can be done in post by someone determined." CreationDate="2011-01-20T04:35:35.770" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9466" PostId="7287" Score="2" Text="Because it feels like a soapbox you decided to get on about the &quot;sharing&quot; of the internet and not a useful answer." CreationDate="2011-01-20T05:47:54.633" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9467" PostId="7234" Text="wow, thanks for that pointer koiyu!" CreationDate="2011-01-20T05:57:43.707" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="9468" PostId="7287" Score="1" Text="First part is useful, second isn't... " CreationDate="2011-01-20T06:04:28.707" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9469" PostId="7285" Text="@mmr: I've seen prints from a DP2, as well as prints from my 450D and a 5DII. From a detail level, the 5DII stomps all over the DP2, despite the fact that it is a bayer. Blue saturation is better from the DP2, but other than that, colors from the DP2 and Canon's are about the same. Granted, better blue saturation is a great thing, but a very slight saturation bump in post can normalize such a difference between any camera. Now, MP for MP, I would say the Foveon definitely has the edge on detail, no question there. My point was that the LARGEST Foveon is 14mp, while FF sensors are 24-28mp now." CreationDate="2011-01-20T06:34:44.400" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9470" PostId="7285" Text="@John: I don't think I made my point as clear as I wanted...14mp is the *largest* Foveon sensor, in APS-C format. Outside of some improvement to saturation, FF Bayer sensors like the 5DII's stomp all over a Foveon in the high resolution detail area. Thats to say nothing of the astounding quality you can get from a 60-80mp medium format bayer. On a megapixel-to-megapixel comparison, a Foveon 14mp sensor will have clearer detail and better saturation than a 14mp bayer. Saturation is easy to fix post process, however the detail is still a win." CreationDate="2011-01-20T06:37:06.703" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9471" PostId="5563" Text="@lindes, haven't got round to doing much about it so far, to be honest. First step will be manual focus :) I'm enjoying all the questions/answers on lighting here too, it's something I've never given much thought to previously." CreationDate="2011-01-20T06:42:23.110" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="9472" PostId="7285" Score="1" Text="I was a BIG Foveon fanatic for a long time before I actually bought a camera. I really like the merits of the technology, and I think it has potential...especially if Canon and Nikon can license it. *My worry is that it is in Sigma's hands.* It has taken them years to *announce* the 15.3mp APS-C, and the DP2 has barely been able to take off. Sigma doesn't execute well, even if the technology is superb, and that could very well spell the doom of the technology. I would love to see them license the technology, and get a Juggernaut like Canon to release a 21mp Foveon. I'd buy one in a heartbeat. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T06:46:33.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9474" PostId="7291" Text="+1 Thanks. I will check them out &amp; get back to you" CreationDate="2011-01-20T08:19:40.313" UserId="3005" />
  <row Id="9476" PostId="7287" Score="2" Text="To say &quot;you can't&quot; needs a little more justification. For example, the Digimarc service seems to have some merit. As for fair use, the first step is to find where the photo is being used then you, the owner, can determine from the context whether it is fair use or whether you can condone the usage. As to the second part of your answer, while I support Open Source and the Creative Commons and therefore I am sensitive to the concept of creative sharing, you ignore the fundamental right of every creator to choose whether and how he would like his work to be shared." CreationDate="2011-01-20T09:28:18.703" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9477" PostId="7298" Text="Thanks for the recommendation.  Considering this is an APS-C sensor (I think), does your suggestion of `greater than 80mm` need to be translated to `greater than 50mm`?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T10:28:39.247" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9478" PostId="7298" Text="No, I deliberately adjusted for CS cameras. I wouldn't use less than 100mm on a full frame camera, so 80mm would be my preferred minimum on APS-C." CreationDate="2011-01-20T10:42:54.523" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9479" PostId="7206" Text="I've already got the 50mm f/1.8 I'm debating getting another prime as well." CreationDate="2011-01-20T10:44:48.730" UserId="2680" />
  <row Id="9480" PostId="7298" Text="@Nick Miners Great, thanks for clarifying that.  At 105mm, how far back would I need to be to photograph at 3m artwork?  Also, what are the characteristics of a Macro lens such as the one you recommend?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:08:52.067" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9481" PostId="7301" Text="Did you post this in the wrong thread?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:09:47.143" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9482" PostId="7298" Text="Hmm... trigonometry gives me 14m for a 3m long picture. That might not be practical... this is based on Sigma's site http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/macro/105mm.htm stating an angle of view of 23 degrees. I don't know however whether this figure they quote is for full frame or APS-C; if the former, then you'd need to be even further away. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:16:20.457" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9483" PostId="7301" Text="No it's for my previous answer, I just wanted to point to some good calibration products." CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:19:50.920" UserId="3357" />
  <row Id="9484" PostId="7301" Text="Ah! Sorry, my mistake :)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:23:06.363" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9485" PostId="7300" Text="Thanks for the answer Sergiu.  Fortunately at this stage most of the work is greyscale charcoal drawings and etchings so I don't have to worry too much about colour (although this will change in future)." CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:37:35.077" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9486" PostId="7305" Text="If I'm using artificial lighting (and a tripod, obviously) I should be able to have suitably long exposures to shot at F8, right?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:42:15.490" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9487" PostId="7298" Text="@Nick Miners Can you post the calculation so I can replicate it with other focal lengths?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:44:58.980" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9488" PostId="7298" Text="Actually I messed up - it's half that (7m). The calculation is as follows: distance needed = 1.5/tan(angle of view/2).&#xA;In the case of the 105mm lens, 1.5/tan(23.3/2) = 1.5/0.2 = 7.5m. You'd probably need to go to the lens manufacturer's site to get Angle of View figures as I don't have a formula for the relation between focal length and angle." CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:46:59.763" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9489" PostId="7285" Score="2" Text="@jrista Are you talking about 14 million photosites, or 14 million total colour-sensing elements? A Foveon sensor with 14 million photosites would do a hell of a lot better than a Bayer with 14 million photosites, probably better than a 24MP Bayer, and hence is not low res by today's standards. However such a camera (the SD1) has not been released yet. A Foveon sensor with 14 million colour sensels but only 4.5 million photosites (like the SD15) will do worse than a 14mp Bayer." CreationDate="2011-01-20T11:47:46.617" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9491" PostId="7304" Text="Whilst monitor calibration is important, this doesn't really answer the question regarding suggestions for lenses to minimise distortion." CreationDate="2011-01-20T12:40:59.853" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9492" PostId="7298" Text="@Nick Miners What do you think of this? The `Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM` [apparently](http://www.sweeting.org/mark/lenses/canon.php) has an angle of view on a 550D of 15°12'.  According to my calculations,  `1.5/math.tan(math.radians(15.2/2))` = `11.2m` Does that sound correct to you?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T12:58:24.320" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9493" PostId="7310" Text="Thanks for the advice Rowland.  Can point me towards any further information on lens profiles and post processing?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:00:44.520" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9494" PostId="7308" Text="I'll try and find the original source. Useful info though, about  underexposing a bit so not to clip the dominant channel." CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:01:46.130" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9495" PostId="7310" Score="1" Text="@fmark I've added a link to the currently supported lenses on the Adobe site - it really is as simple as take shot; load it into Lightroom, go to the &quot;Develop&quot; tab, and at the bottom, select to use the lens profile." CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:04:43.083" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9496" PostId="7310" Text="Wow, that's progress :)  Thanks for the tip." CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:12:08.060" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9497" PostId="7298" Score="1" Text="An 85mm lens will have a wider AoV than a 105mm lens; like I said, that figure on the Sigma website may be for Full Frame cameras, and will be smaller on an APS-C camera. Using that same site, 105mm equates to 12.2 degrees on your camera, giving a distance of 14m. And we're back to square one! " CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:13:42.153" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9498" PostId="7304" Text="It was my first answer on this site, and I tough that the answers will be in order and I pointed some links for this answer http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7297/lens-for-shooting-paintings-with-canon-550d/7300#7300 ..... my bad :)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:50:55.460" UserId="3357" />
  <row Id="9499" PostId="7296" Text="Wow, I feel silly. I definitely misunderstood what metering was for. For some reason (probably because of the way it was explained to me) I was under the impression that it affected other characteristics of the color in the photo. I was getting confused because it seems like the color of the &quot;spot&quot; changes the way the picture looks. For example,  with gray I need to use a &quot;proper exposure&quot; whereas with black I need to stop down the exposure. I realize this just has to do with the amount of the light the camera is throwing at that spot. Is that right? I need to read more about histograms too." CreationDate="2011-01-20T13:59:23.160" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9500" PostId="7296" Text="Do you have any suggestions for how I can make this a better question for the community? It's a bit misleading right now since I didn't understand metering." CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:00:13.533" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9501" PostId="7273" Text="@Rowland, How did you find out? (if it involved prolonged study of the Daily Mail, you have my sympathy)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:04:14.283" UserId="2016" />
  <row Id="9502" PostId="7295" Text="I was using manual mode. From my understanding, spot metering is *best* with manual mode. When you use a priority mode, the camera is choosing the &quot;correct&quot; exposure for you. With spot metering, it helps you choose how much to over or under expose (something you can't do in a priority mode) so that you can choose how to expose a particular spot. If I used spot metering in a priority mode, I would always have to meter off of something gray in color. If I metered off black, the picture would be very bright because I can't compensate. Is that wrong?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:07:56.237" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9503" PostId="7314" Score="2" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4870/21" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:09:17.980" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9504" PostId="7295" Score="1" Text="I think we agree except for one point: I think the whole reason spot metering is useful is because you *can* &quot;*base* your exposure off the results of a spot meter&quot;. Do you ever find spot metering useful in a priority mode?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:09:25.080" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9505" PostId="7273" Text="@Ian In that case, I was tipped off by a friend; it would be a full time job  to track down if any of my other photos had been used beyond licence. See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/856/21" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:12:05.653" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9506" PostId="7314" Score="3" Text="It looks like the question was asked in an edit, and it's kind of hard to get the answer out of that question. I'll leave it for others to decide if this should be closed, but I think it's a separate question." CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:20:21.177" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9507" PostId="7314" Score="10" Text="When you don't have your camera with you. :-) " CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:30:51.330" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="9508" PostId="7314" Score="2" Text="@Pearsonartphoto Most of the answers are dated *after* the edit..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:35:34.907" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9509" PostId="7155" Text="Would you be interested in book recommendations too?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:35:43.017" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9510" PostId="7304" Text="@Sergui I hadn't seen your other answer -- you should be able to edit your own answers, or even add comments on them. In addition, it's generally discouraged to simply post a link as an &quot;answer&quot;, as the destination of the link *may* disappear, which would then make your answer meaningless." CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:39:12.047" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9511" PostId="7285" Text="I like the direction Foveon has taken but read in a number of places that there are kinks that need to be worked out still. I am not sure what the kinks are but much mention of its shortcomings are abound. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:47:06.577" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9512" PostId="7311" Text="This becomes very important when shooting timelapses as the random variations cause &quot;shutter flicker&quot; however I wouldn't have thought it to be a problem shooting stills as you can reshoot if you get exposure problems, and seeing as the cameras metering won't be as accurate as 8% you'll end up taking several photos anyway! " CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:51:26.027" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9513" PostId="7295" Score="1" Text="It's definitely useful, because a priority mode and spot metering solve two different problems. Priority metering is most useful when there's large differences in brightness between the subject and the background. Priority modes are useful when you want to control motion blur (shutter) or depth of field (aperture). There's no reason you can't mix and match these scenarios." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:29:46.117" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9514" PostId="7295" Text="Lastly, you can certainly intentionally under or overexpose in any situation: manual, priority, spot metering, or otherwise. Exposure compensation is the tool to use in most modes; in manual it's left entirely under your control." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:30:57.940" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9515" PostId="7316" Score="6" Text="I see you're fairly new on the site... welcome!  In general, answers here on photo.stackexchange.com should provide helpful information and not just a link to somewhere else on the web.  It's possible that you could provide a quick summary that covers the key points and then also include a link for those who might want to read more." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:34:38.823" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="9516" PostId="7316" Score="4" Text="Quoting the relevant bits would be nice. The linked site/page could go offline or move (without 301/302), making this answer useless and most people don't particularly like to follow another indirection just to see whether it's relevant or not." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:35:22.193" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="9517" PostId="7296" Text="You're not wrong. Metering does indeed affect the &quot;color&quot; (both luminosity, and, to a lesser extent, saturation) of your picture, though perhaps less directly than you're thinking. Metering attempts to set the luminosity (brightness) to a &quot;correct&quot; (balanced) value: typically what's known as &quot;18% gray. With spot metering, the camera only considers a tiny area, as opposed to averaging the entire picture. If you spot meter a black surface, the camera will increase the exposure so that it becomes middle-gray... possibly overexposing everything else." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:36:32.063" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9518" PostId="7295" Text="Shoot, I can't edit any more. That should read &quot;*Spot* metering is most useful when there's large differences in brightness&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:37:41.300" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9519" PostId="7296" Score="1" Text="I wouldn't change the question, I think its useful as it sits, just maybe not as you intended." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:39:01.453" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9520" PostId="7296" Score="1" Text="Craig is right, your camera is still doing the &quot;right&quot; thing, exposing for where you point it.  It just considers only a very small area and exposes that to grey.  As the amount of light entering affects your colors to a certain extent, it changes EVERYTHING.  It sounds like you just need to learn how to spot meter in general.  That may be a question worth asking on here separately." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:41:14.053" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9521" PostId="7308" Text="In fact, if anything, you'd want a *shorter* exposure time to underexpose your shot (assuming you're not using a ND filter like Matt says)/" CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:43:18.123" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9522" PostId="7308" Text="Isn't this a tip for shooting slide film too? Maybe the same mechanism is in effect." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:45:27.627" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9523" PostId="7302" Score="1" Text="I was always under the impression that, for film, slight under exposure increased colour saturation." CreationDate="2011-01-20T15:49:38.420" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9524" PostId="7285" Score="1" Text="@jrista,  now we definitely agree-- Sigma has not been very good in the execution of the chip.  It is clear that they lack the UI engineering to make the dp series of cameras into the powerhouses that they should be on paper.   I fantasize that they will open their firmware so that those of us with computer science chops can take a hack at it, like CHDK.  I also fantasize that their SLR bodies will have Nikon and Canon mounts.  While I'm at it, I also want a pony and world peace-- I think that all four desires are on the same likelihood of happening." CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:04:31.763" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9525" PostId="7319" Text="Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/284/should-i-be-worried-about-getting-dust-inside-my-slr" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:18:08.380" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="9526" PostId="7319" Text="Thanks. I've edited the post accordingly." CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:22:54.100" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9527" PostId="7287" Text="@labnut, if you read the first part you'd realize I explained *how* to find where people have used your image, but then when you read the second part you realize that they don't necessarily fall under the same copyright jurisdiction as you do, and that the materials may or may not be &quot;used without copyright permission&quot;. I gave justification in my answer.&#xA;@rfusca, did you read the part about me explaining that you can programmatically check for hotlinking? that's not something that anyone else had brought up, which I feel is more useful as they're leeching bandwidth *as well as* materials." CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:34:58.880" UserId="2474" />
  <row Id="9528" PostId="7319" Text="Thanks for the clarification!" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:50:07.280" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="9529" PostId="7319" Score="2" Text="Why do you say that it's not good for the camera? It's designed to be interchangeable! How often are you planning on doing this?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T16:56:57.037" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9530" PostId="7323" Score="4" Text="It's a bit like cutting your foot off to avoid getting a splinter, provided you don't live on a building site the problem with dust really isn't that bad! A cheap superzoom with a macro adaptor is going to take worse photos than a dedicated macro lens on a body with a little bit dust. At least I'd wait to see if you have a genuine dust problem before planning my whole lens strategy around it." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:05:38.520" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9531" PostId="7323" Score="1" Text="@Matt, I wouldn't go that far, but like you say, I guess it depends on how much of a problem you have.  So, given that the asker has a problem, I've tried to give him some workable options... (although, I can indeed forsee a soft quality in the images!)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:09:40.907" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9532" PostId="7325" Text="When you say &quot;wet clean&quot;, I don't think you mean &quot;shove a wet towel into the body&quot;, do you? I don't want to destroy my only camera :(" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:12:22.733" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9533" PostId="7321" Text="I can't afford *another* 550D. $800 isn't that easy to come about..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:13:27.833" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9534" PostId="7319" Text="Well, a bit too often. I randomly take macro, and randomly (try) to zoom. I don't want to have to fix my only camera, as I take pictures every day..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:17:06.817" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9535" PostId="7302" Text="@labnut: Depends on whether you're talking about negatives or chromes. Negatives like slight over-exposure; chromes like slight under-exposure. Velvia kind of broke most of us chrome shooters of that habit -- it really got garish shooting at 64 instead of 50. VPS -- the wedding photogrpher's weapon of choice -- was rated at 160, but most folks shot it at 125 or 100." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:20:01.477" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9536" PostId="7325" Score="2" Text="Thanks, I've edited my answer to be more specific just in case anyone decides to dunk their camera in the sink! " CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:24:46.413" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9537" PostId="7285" Text="@Matt: I was referring to the DP2, the 4.6mp sensor that has 14.4 million photosites. Sorry for the confusion. I really hope that they can actually release the 15.3mp SD1. If they do, that would actually make a competitive product against things like the 5DII's 21.1mp sensor and Sony's 24mp sensor. The real question, though...is will the SD1 be competitive in other areas as well...or will it suffer from the same poor UI/functionality quality as the other Sigmas?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:32:55.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9538" PostId="7323" Text="@AJ it's a perfectly valid answer to the question, I just think the questioner's problem might be the anticipation of dust rather than a problem with dust itself. I used to worry about the same things but over time I found the impact of dust to be not so bad." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:35:49.687" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9539" PostId="7285" Text="@mmr: Aye, Sigma doesn't have the UI engineering at all...thats one of the things I don't like about the DP2, its rather clunky and very limited. I don't think I would ever fantasize about their SLR bodies having a Nikon or Canon mount...I just want them to start licensing the Foveon technology to other manufacturers. They would still make bank, the technology would probably take off like wildfire, and people like us could get one in our preferred brand/format. Imagine even an MF sensor using Foveon...oh, the possibilities. Sadly, I really think Foveon will die a slow death w/ Sigma. :'(" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:36:48.950" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9540" PostId="7234" Text="@cabbey Kudos for providing a code outline in addition to answering the question! " CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:37:14.223" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9541" PostId="7326" Text="Does your camera have an exposure lock control?" CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:39:34.877" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9542" PostId="7321" Score="1" Text="@blender A lens that is good at multiple types of shooting will cost and arm and a leg and way more than the $800 for your 550D. To get a long focal length in a wide aperture will take you into the realm of the most pricey lenses available. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:40:39.230" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9543" PostId="7328" Text="+1 for the nice site. Well done. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:42:14.453" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9544" PostId="7297" Text="You might want to review the answers that were offered when this question was asked two weeks ago at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6533/1356 ." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:43:49.673" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9545" PostId="7328" Text="@kacalapy Thank you! " CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:45:02.530" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9546" PostId="7300" Score="1" Text="@fmark Consider rethinking this.  Even charcoal has color and it can be affected in the same way any color (including, and especially, white) is." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:46:45.673" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="9547" PostId="7327" Score="1" Text="Please do not copy and paste text from another website, especially without quoting your reference/source. For shame. http://www.suite101.com/content/how-to-use-digital-slr-camera-metering-modes-a217314  Exactly copy and pasted from the page." CreationDate="2011-01-20T17:46:53.473" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9548" PostId="7325" Text="+1 The best way to deal with dust is to accept it as a part of life and learn to deal with it (i.e. clean it off, clone it out, etc.)." CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:00:09.663" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="9549" PostId="7285" Text="@jrista at the risk of pouring on more confusion I would say the DP2 only has only 4.6 million *photosites* but 14 million *colour sensing elements*. What it doesn't have however is 14 million *pixels*, producing as it does a 2640 x 1760 pixel image." CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:03:25.350" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9550" PostId="7319" Score="2" Text="I hope I'm not insulting your photography knowledge, but I think it's worth asking: do you want true macro (i.e. closeup photos of objects smaller than the size of the sensor) or &quot;macro&quot; (i.e. close ups of small, but not that small objects, like whole flowers). There can be almost an order of magnitude difference between these two types of &quot;macro&quot; lenses, yet both use the same term. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:19:35.827" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9551" PostId="7295" Score="1" Text="As I understand it, an exposure-mode like &quot;manual mode&quot; is not about making a meter reading it's about how you or the camera prioritise aperture, speed and ISO to control the exposure as a result of that meter reading. Metering-modes like spot-metering, centre-weighted metering, matrix-metering, etc only† control which areas in the viewfinder are used in the algorithm that arrives at a meter reading. Metering-modes and exposure-modes are somewhat orthogonal. *†mainly*" CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:25:46.890" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="9552" PostId="7321" Text="@blender As kacalapy said, good quality long focal length lenses will be pricey (much more than a second body), but also really big and heavy. If you cannot afford a second body, you'll have to change lens (or give up DSLR for a bridge, or stick to one subject type). You could keep a reasonable budget with two lenses. One macro (focal depending on your macro shooting subjects and habits) and a decent telephoto zoom lens. As I suppose you don't switch from macro to telephoto back and forth after each shot, it should help to lower lens change." CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:30:52.503" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="9553" PostId="7311" Text="@Matt more significant in the days of film when you didn't get a histogram straight away, and some habits (and advice) die hard. I would also hope that timing reliability is improving over time. Of course the 10 microseconds was made up on the spot (like 85.4% of all statistics) and not based on empirical data (as I don't have access to it)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:50:35.773" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9555" PostId="7295" Score="2" Text="RedGrittyBrick, that's pretty much correct. The only addition I'd make to that is that you *can* take a metering (of any variety) in manual mode (or, for that matter, with a standalone light meter). Connecting the meter reading to the exposure control is then handled by you, rather than by the camera. The meter reading is a &quot;suggestion&quot; for what exposure settings you should pick, but it's really up to you." CreationDate="2011-01-20T18:54:31.617" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9556" PostId="7338" Text="I'm not very clued up about flashguns if I'm honest, I'm just after one that has good power and one that I can use both as an attachment on my camera and one that I can use on stands with wireless triggers, hope that makes sense!" CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:05:41.520" UserId="1557" />
  <row Id="9557" PostId="6874" Text="No -- it's just that indoors, unless the space is relatively large, ambient light contributes negligibly to the overall exposure in most cases. If it were contributing, say, ten percent of the total, then doubling the amount of ambient light would not appreciably change the overall exposure. The increase would be drowned out by flash reflection. And if you on aperture priority with a flash-only setting, the shutter speed likely wouldn't change from the X-sync speed (in order to avoid unwanted artifacts, like ghosting and trails), depending on the camera." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:06:49.437" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9558" PostId="7303" Text="In the Bayer sensor you have 7.5 million green photosites, and 3.75 million red and green photosites.  Your example is correct in that a totally neutral subject will give the maximum amount of data, although even in that example because there is no overlap between red/green/blue sensors you would potentially see some color show up in the demosiacing when there was difference in luminance between the cat and the background.  But in reality how many things are grey, and how many things show some degree of color?  You are also wrong about the SD1, it has 45 million photosites (distinct sensors)." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:11:45.637" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9559" PostId="7339" Text="After having a SB-600 that swivels around, I can't imagine how boring it would be to have one that doesn't turn like the SB 400.  Just my two cents. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:13:05.737" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9560" PostId="7338" Text="@Podge Porritt: feel free to update your comment with more detail on what you're looking for and what you want to do with it; it'll help get you more helpful answers." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:14:38.697" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9561" PostId="7339" Text="Always take what Ken says with a grain of salt...he also says on his site that the kit lens &quot;is all you'll ever need&quot; for most people..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:15:01.273" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9562" PostId="7338" Text="Note that, if you want to use 3rd-party wireless (radio) triggers with the SB-600, you'll have to get a hotshoe-based solution. The SB-600 doesn't have a PC jack for a wired trigger, unlike the SB-800 and up. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:15:48.323" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9563" PostId="7338" Score="1" Text="All of the ones listed there can be used as such, on or off camera, but some (the SB-600 or YN-465) when they're attached to the camera will function in a more automatic mode." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:15:54.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9564" PostId="7285" Text="@matt: A Bayer 14MP camera does not have 14 million pixels either, since any given pixel was created from only 1/3 of the original color spectrum at that physical location.  By your terminology you would have to say a 14 MP bayer camera has 7 million photosites, because that is the largest count for any of the color channels, and the other &quot;color sensing elements&quot; are just informing the green image as to color.  In reality though, the term &quot;photosite&quot; in fact are what you refer to as &quot;color sensing elements&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:18:21.837" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9565" PostId="7339" Text="@rfusca I'm with you on both points. I only (and hesitantly) linked to KR because he does have one of the most informative and clear pages on that flash. And I'm definitely more a fan of the SB-600; it's way more flexible &amp; useful IMO." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:19:22.013" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9566" PostId="7339" Text="@Craig Walker - Indeed." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:19:56.850" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9567" PostId="7338" Text="I'm currently doing environmental portraits and as I dont dive I cant really be lugging a full lighting kit around, so I'm after one that rotates and one that I can control well power wise, as I said I'm not too clued up on flashes, and the only flash I've used is the S* 900 and that was a courtesy of my university, I think they're really good, but £300 is way above what I can afford sadly. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:20:57.657" UserId="1557" />
  <row Id="9568" PostId="7338" Text="If you're going to be doing &quot;environmental portraits&quot;, you may be &quot;competing&quot; with the Sun a bit, and something stronger may be to your advantage.  Look at the Lumopro 160 from mpex.com.  Its not &quot;automatic&quot; (iTTL), but I believe does rather well for power." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:25:49.397" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9570" PostId="7324" Text="32-bit raw?  Which cameras are those?  Current Canons for example are 14-bit at most, I think." CreationDate="2011-01-20T19:50:37.867" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="9571" PostId="7324" Text="I meant 42-bit, since it 14 per primary, but I can understand that that will make things more confusing, even without my typo." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:00:01.490" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="9572" PostId="7311" Text="A nanosecond is 1x10^-9 seconds. You're looking for microseconds, 1x10^-6. 1/8 ms is 125 *micro*seconds." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:08:59.323" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9573" PostId="7287" Text="The [Berne Convention](http://bit.ly/4DbArP) covers International copyright agreements - it doesn't matter if you use a protected work in a differing country, if they were a signatory of the convention." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:13:44.063" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9574" PostId="7311" Text="@Evan oops. My bad -- fixed :)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:20:00.137" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9575" PostId="7262" Text="@rfusca you are correct where a ph value of 0 us very acidic. I meant a balanced ph above. Updated: to contain an exact ph value of neutral (7.0)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:22:52.023" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9577" PostId="7319" Text="Whoops, I was meaning that I take macro as in focusing to a point very close to the lens itself. By zooming, I was meaning that I take zoomed-in shots of things, like squirrels in a tree. Sorry for the ambiguity..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:41:06.140" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9578" PostId="7325" Text="Thanks. I'm not as paranoid about it as before, since I thought that it basically kills your sensor and you have to pay tons of money to fix it. I was hoping for a single lens because I don't want to carry multiple lenses around and swap them every time I shoot different subjects (also, I hold the risk of having a brother get hold of the lens)." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:43:16.463" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9579" PostId="7285" Score="1" Text="@Kendall Helmstetter Gelner regardless of how much of the colour spectrum is recorded at a physical location there is still a pixel, sensel, photosite or whatever you want to call it there. So the 14MP does make sense, incidentally the raw images before interpolation have 14 million pixels in them. Raw images from the Sigma have 4.6 million pixels in them, although there are three values per pixel, that doesn't make it three times the pixels! If I take a regular image and add an alpha channel there is now 4 values per pixel, but you wouldn't say the number of pixels has increased." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:44:06.643" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9580" PostId="7323" Text="It's not that much of a dust problem as it is a convenience problem. I just wanted to know if there exists a lens that can do it all (well, most of them cost twice as much as my camera, and outweigh it)." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:45:19.923" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9581" PostId="5540" Text="Well, I tried Magic Lantern, but it was *buggy*. It locked my camera up a few times, and I had fun getting rid of it. I'll try it again when the bugs are ironed out..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:47:45.863" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9582" PostId="7285" Score="1" Text="Wow, who knew that one small answer would generate so much interesting commentary. :) I semi-agree with jrista around the future of Foveon in the hands of Sigma, but you never know, giants can fall, just ask Pentax..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:48:59.567" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9584" PostId="7328" Text="+1 nice article." CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:58:11.213" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9585" PostId="7277" Text="Thanks especially for the tip on using LR to move the folders. I have no idea why I didn't think of this myself, but it'll definitely give me peace of mind." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:02:25.280" UserId="1645" />
  <row Id="9586" PostId="7215" Text="Thanks for clarifying my over-simplification..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:14:37.033" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="9587" PostId="7343" Text="Heh, I'm actually doing that. I ordered a 6 foot cable from Amazon (I was contemplating 20 feet ;) ), but they shipped a 3.5 mm plug. So now I have a huge cable, a big fat connector, and a paperclip to trigger the camera. Microswitches and a case for the whole thing are next on the list..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:21:08.337" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9588" PostId="7345" Text="Well, that will certainly be my next project. The pictures have this nice look to them. Thanks once again." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:24:43.820" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9589" PostId="7344" Text="AFAIK - there is NO firmware released for Nikon D90. I did search for it some time back." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:27:26.833" UserId="1725" />
  <row Id="9590" PostId="7344" Text="The only custom stuff is for the Canon PowerShot AFAICT." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:27:31.960" UserId="2566" />
  <row Id="9591" PostId="7344" Text="Wow, this isn't looking too good, is it :P" CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:29:49.707" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9592" PostId="7336" Text="If you are on a Budget, then you should go with DB-400. As owner of SB-600, I can say it's good, but more than $100 expensive of SB-400. So you decide...." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:30:08.953" UserId="1725" />
  <row Id="9593" PostId="7285" Text="@matt: If your definition of a pixel is three recorded values at the same location, the Foveon sensor has 4.6 million of them and the Bayer 14MP sensor has zero, since there are no R G B sensor recordings that &quot;belong&quot; with each other.  There are only three separate images which combined form the final color.  The closest you can get is the 7.5MP green image which guesses at colors based on the other two images.  The problem is you are trying to claim a single color channel in a Bayer image is a &quot;pixel&quot; while then also claiming the Foveon sensor needs three values to make a pixel." CreationDate="2011-01-20T21:43:06.900" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9595" PostId="7350" Text="I'm not zooming for composition, I'm zooming simply to view the quality of the image at its original resolution (not shrunk down). The amount of noise when viewing the image at its full resolution at 100% zoom was rather large, which is why I asked about it." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:00:56.020" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9596" PostId="7350" Text="Then what you are probably seeing is lens distortion. Its normal to have some degree of distortion at 100% zoom. There isn't much you can do about that except correct it in Lightroom/Photoshop." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:07:46.123" UserId="3368" />
  <row Id="9597" PostId="7351" Text="So a better lens will help, but not by a lot? I figured as much. I've read online the stock D90 lens isn't really all that great... perhaps I'll invest in the Nikon 18-200mm lens... I hear it's much better for general-purpose shooting. I'll also tweak the ISO settings on my camera a bit, too, I didn't realize it had that much of an impact on the quality. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:09:14.883" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9598" PostId="7346" Text="While that's true, there aren't any areas like that close to home, so if I'm going to get to one of them, well, it takes a while..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:12:18.947" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9599" PostId="7285" Text="@Matt Grum: &quot;I would say the DP2 only has only 4.6 million photosites but 14 million colour sensing elements&quot;. I would agree there, my use of the term photosite is based on Bayer, and on Foveon it would mean what you describe. The DP2 is a sensor with 4.6 million photosites, comprised of 3 sensels each. That would be 14.4 million color sensing elements total. Now that we have that cleared up..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:12:58.670" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9600" PostId="7352" Text="Thanks! This was what I was looking for (minus the part about the sensor size, since I can't really replace or do anything about that :P)." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:13:58.700" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9601" PostId="7351" Score="2" Text="ISO has quite a bit of an effect on quality, especially towards the upper range.  A *faster* lens will help (faster meaning a wider aperture (lower maximum f stop)) because it will allow you to shoot without the need to raise your ISO more often.  I don't believe the 18-200 is a faster lens.  Your lens needs really depends on the kinds of shots you do." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:13:59.810" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9602" PostId="7346" Text="Time for a vacation, then! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:15:12.710" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9603" PostId="7352" Score="4" Text="Note, too, that thermal noise can be a big part of the equation -- for a given light level, a cooler camera will be less noisy than a warmer one -- and that &quot;live view&quot; can be a significant contributor to thermal noise in the sensor. Using the prism viewfinder (and it is a prism rather than a pentamirror on the D90) rather than the LCD for composition, etc., should further reduce noise, especially in long sessions." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:18:19.350" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9604" PostId="7285" Text="It looks like we've have gone off on a tangent about the definition of terms. Lets try to normalize a bit here, so we can have a meaningful discussion. ;) So, I propose: **Sensel** = single color sensing element, **Photosite** = single photo-sensitive site on a sensor that may sense one color (Bayer) or three colors (Foveon), **Pixel** = standard picture element comprised of three channel elements: Red, Green, Blue. Given these definitions: Sigma DP2 =&gt; 4.6megaPIXEL sensor of 4.6megaPHOTOSITES comprised of 14.4megaSENSEL. Bayer 14mp =&gt; 14.4megaPIXEL sensor, 14.4megaPHOTOSITES, 14.4megaSENSEL." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:20:20.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9606" PostId="7352" Text="I rarely use the Live View on my D90, I don't like it, I find it too slow for focusing and way too slow on the shutter speed (since it has to close first, and then re-open it). I always use the viewfinder. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:29:05.110" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9607" PostId="7354" Text="Good question, been wondering this myself." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:32:33.640" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9608" PostId="7285" Text="In a Bayer sensor, pixels are demosaiced in an 'overlapping' fashion, so every possible combination of 2x2 sets of RGBG are processed to generate pixels. In other words, an image pixel is defined by the intersection between each SENSEL of a 2x2 cell of RGBG SENSELS. For a visual example of this: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-sensors.htm (BAYER DEMOSAICING section.)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:33:39.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9609" PostId="7303" Text="Kendall would be correct here. With a 15mp Bayer, you have 7.5 million green, and 3.75 each red and blue, rather than an even number of red, green, and blue. That makes sense though, as our eyesight is more sensitive to green as well. I wouldn't necessarily say that Bayer gathering twice as much green info as red/blue info is a detriment in any way. @Kendall: As for the SD1, Matt is correct in that it has 15.4 million PHOTOSITES, or individual photosensitive locations on the sensor. Each PHOTOSITE is capable of sensing three different colors, and therefor has 46.2 million SENSELS. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:37:31.840" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9610" PostId="7350" Score="3" Text="@atodd - lens distortion has nothing to do with noise, and you probably will not notice any of it at 100% view." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:39:37.647" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9611" PostId="7243" Text="Tags are always a difficult thing to master. I always find it's best to ask yourself, &quot;What would someone be searching for if they wanted to find this picture?&quot;, and then add the appropriate tags accordingly. " CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:44:33.563" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="9612" PostId="7220" Text="Hey -- I'll have you know that I bought a brand-spankin'-new Mamiya C330 less than a quarter-century ago, along with three lens pairs (you need pairs on an interchangeable-lens TLR) and a paramender :o)" CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:44:42.727" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9613" PostId="7354" Text="Which camera are you using?  Some cameras include the focus point information in their RAW files and EXIF data, with a little effort, it wouldn't be too difficult to use that information to gauge the sharpness and contrast to determine a rating of focus.  I don't know anything that does this though..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:45:13.437" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="9614" PostId="7354" Score="2" Text="@Benjamin Anderson - this is only a partial solution. Usually you focus then recompose, so the focus point indication will actually be misleading in this case and will rate many perfect images as out-of-focus" CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:47:58.457" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9615" PostId="7221" Score="2" Text="No, you can't. The first SLRs had left-right reversed waist level finders. In fact, until recently, the top-of-the-line Nikons and Canons still had a WLF option (Both the Canon F1 and the Nikon D3 had them for sure, and I'm pretty sure the D4 still had it as an option.) The prism finder usually came standard (and was often fixed) in the 35mm world, but in 6x6 and larger medium format, it was (and still is) a multi-hundred-dollar option. &quot;Reflex&quot; indicates the mirror, which does a bottom-to-top image erection; the prism adds left-to-right correction as well." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:49:28.520" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9616" PostId="7354" Text="@ysap - True, especially when it comes to macro shots." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:50:45.940" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="9617" PostId="7355" Score="1" Text="I'm starting to see how it's possible to design such a program. For faces, well, do a facial recognition type program, look at the eyes and see if they are in focus. Something should be possible for this, although it might be somewhat difficult..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T22:55:19.087" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9619" PostId="7300" Text="@whuber I'm very happy to be corrected, thank you." CreationDate="2011-01-20T23:15:50.707" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9620" PostId="7221" Text="Um, make that F3 and F4 for the Nikons -- one gets far too used to typing &quot;D&quot; these digital days..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T23:23:04.600" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9621" PostId="270" Text="+1 from me too, only downside is the tendency to zoom-creep when hanging from your neck." CreationDate="2011-01-20T23:36:42.403" UserId="3371" />
  <row Id="9622" PostId="7354" Text="It would be even better if you could more clearly see what is in focus *before* taking a picture. For example, live view could use colour coding to clearly highlight in-focus and out-of-focus areas. I wonder if there are any cameras that can do that..." CreationDate="2011-01-20T23:38:00.187" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="9623" PostId="7285" Text="@Kendall *&quot;If your definition of a pixel is three recorded values at the same location, the Foveon sensor has 4.6 million of them and the Bayer 14MP sensor has zero&quot;* no, my definition of a pixel is **any number of recorded values at the same location** it's the location that is key. With this definition the DP2 has 4.6 million and the 5D mkII 21 million. That's not to say anything at all about the relative image quality or sharpness of the two cameras, I'm just defining terms in an intuitive manner." CreationDate="2011-01-20T23:52:46.893" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9624" PostId="7303" Score="1" Text="I think we've covered megapixels vs. sensels adequately in the other question. With regards to my cat example, I accept that it is a very rare occurrence to have an entirely monotone scene (a point I accept in the answer) but I also go on to say that in most scenes you may not have three colour channels in complete agreement but you are likely to have colour channels that highly correlate with each other. You could have a very garish scene with bright cyan, shocking pink and luminous yellow, and still have two identical readings per Foveon photosite!" CreationDate="2011-01-20T23:58:30.427" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9625" PostId="7360" Score="2" Text="It's certainly not a rectilinear wide-angle; at the 15mm end it's almost a crop from a full-frame fisheye. &quot;Barrel distortion&quot; just isn't a strong enough phrase." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:07:11.770" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9626" PostId="7360" Text="but it is 15mm; there are far too few general purpose zooms which go that wide. For the average Joe, I think wide is more important than anything else; how else are you going to get everyone at the christmas table (at least this side of the atlantic where room sizes are 'cozy'?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:11:57.430" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9627" PostId="7360" Text="The kit lens goes to 18mm, which is fairly wide." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:15:44.993" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9628" PostId="7360" Text="You have a point, but again this comes back to it being a compromise lens, if you want to go wide the 10-22 is stellar (and not much more expensive) if you don't then the 17-85 is half the price. Those two millimetres just seem a bit expensive..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:15:51.297" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9629" PostId="7360" Text="@Ken - well, at the last family dinner we had (~12 people) I used my 10-22mm." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:17:47.660" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9630" PostId="7363" Text="mainly what caught my eye was 15mm, very few lenses that wide, especially if it goes to 85." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:21:18.573" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="9631" PostId="289" Score="1" Text="The only part of the optical path that your viewfinder shares with the sensor is the lens. Any dust on the viewfinder prism or mirror is going to be visible in the viewfinder, but won't affect your images. Any dust on the sensor isn't going to be visible in the viewfinder." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:21:46.373" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9632" PostId="7356" Text="@Nick Bedford - your last point is only partially true, as most of the time you will focus and then recompose. Like the example I gave in other comment, it can be that the ear will be in perfect focus (and as such your image will have great most focus point) but the eye will be OOF." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:23:52.770" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9633" PostId="7362" Score="1" Text="The EFS 10-22mm is one of my favorite lenses, even compared to my Ls.  The 17-55mm f/2.8 is often compared to L lenses, and is praised a lot for it's sharpness and overall quality" CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:36:27.680" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="9634" PostId="7365" Text="I bet that it is the former option. The potential wider aperture is sacrificed to get the convenience of constant aperture across the zoom range." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:41:17.763" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9635" PostId="7360" Text="If it was weather sealed maybe it would be more interesting, but without out that it's pretty &quot;meh&quot; as an option." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:43:02.540" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9636" PostId="7294" Text="erhh, really nice and comprehensive! congrats..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:45:46.903" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9637" PostId="7284" Text="thanks guys, it's flooded with such good opinion, views and info, all answer is good and satisfying..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:48:17.537" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9638" PostId="7285" Text="@John Cavan, me also never expect of such mass and technical specific answer, I really appreciate and welcome they all, love you all!!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:11:32.430" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9639" PostId="289" Text="@Evan: ha! I realized I meant in my little LCD, not viewfinder." CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:13:18.730" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="9640" PostId="7294" Text="One thing I will say about Foveon...the blues really do stand out! " CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:23:28.307" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9641" PostId="285" Text="+1 for the two body option. Always the way to go. I do one body with a zoom, and one with a fast prime." CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:23:42.987" UserId="786" />
  <row Id="9642" PostId="5670" Text="This is because they are not paying GST.  Hence the 10% cheaper price for cameras bought in HK." CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:24:58.633" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="9644" PostId="5083" Score="5" Text="Speaking as someone who was responsible for setting off a fire alarm and scrambling the fire department at an international airport with a smoke machine I was using during a shoot, you'll wanna make sure that you have lots of permission, and verification that it won't cause trouble for the alarms. :-) Found myself having quite an interesting conversation with a lot of official folks in the aftermath. Makes a *great* story at parties, though..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:17:19.397" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9645" PostId="7371" Score="4" Text="You should periodically check your backups. Commercial optical systems are virtually indestructable, but the burnable DVDs/CDs do in fact go bad. Just a tip, so..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:41:20.953" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9646" PostId="7372" Text="I was just wondering what you guys do, I know about backups and such (Network administrator...) I just don't have the money to set up a proper RAID or anything right now. So, I think I'm going to do the DVD thing. The floppy disc bit was more of a joke ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:42:35.447" UserId="663" />
  <row Id="9647" PostId="7370" Text="This should be a community wiki." CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:52:01.117" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9648" PostId="7371" Score="2" Text="Good point. It is extremely important to buy high-quality media. Some are rated to 100 years but I doubt I will need *one tenth* of that because optical media gets refreshed by necessity. I copied all my CDs to DVDs about 5 years ago and I suspect I will do the same from DVD to Blu-Ray soon. There are 3 copies of everything as well. My paranoid self makes sure that the 3 copies use at least 2 brands of disks too." CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:56:39.293" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9649" PostId="7372" Score="1" Text="HDD are known to have longevity but they are also dead in a flash, or fall, or flud. Nearly anything can kill and entire HDD. On the other hand an optical disk can be abused until it stops completely, it can fall, be soaked, etc without any problems. Also if thieves break-in, they usually take the portable HDDs with them, a pile of burned DVDs... no so often." CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:59:53.050" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9650" PostId="7372" Text="@Itai fair point, but that can probably be said the other way around too, so I'm willing to call it a tie for longevity :)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:11:11.550" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="9651" PostId="7371" Score="1" Text="Optical disks may be indestructible, but as I understand it, don't actually last that long.  They degrade pretty quickly, e.g. maybe 5-10 years.  This may or may not be a problem for you, dependent on your backup strategy." CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:14:26.453" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="9652" PostId="7356" Text="I didn't even think of that, and yes, I very often focus and recompose, so there could be a slight shift in the focus plane." CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:22:46.423" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9653" PostId="7377" Text="+1 My model is basically the same, though I have copies on four drives rather than three. I agree with you, DVDs are just unwieldy for any sort of volume. Last year, alone, would put me in the 500 disc range and that's just a little psychotic. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:25:20.230" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9654" PostId="7340" Text="+1 another good suggestion. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:37:25.670" UserId="3005" />
  <row Id="9655" PostId="7376" Text="Hm. Integrit I've never heard of it before. It looks interesting, is it similar to making an md5 sum?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:47:41.380" UserId="663" />
  <row Id="9656" PostId="7360" Text="@Stan Rogers, being an EF-S lens, it won't ever go on a full frame sensor anyway. And yeah, the distortion is insane." CreationDate="2011-01-21T03:50:02.437" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="9657" PostId="7376" Text="I think integrit uses SHA-1, but yes. It reads every byte of every file and creates a checksum for each file. All the checksum data is stored for reference. Then you rerun it later and it compares the checksums to see if any files changed. Obviously this takes a long time ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:17:37.197" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="9658" PostId="7376" Score="1" Text="Very similar, although it uses a different hash function (RIPEMD-160). (MD5 and SHA1 are both considered &quot;broken&quot; for cryptography, although are still fine for bitrot protection.) And, it isn't just a checksum program — it also is meant to manage running against a set of files and alerting on changes. (So, in some ways, more similar to something like tripwire.)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:18:41.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9659" PostId="7373" Score="1" Text="Smugmug is great for this since it does not delete / destroy the original, uploaded JPEG. I have used this as a poor man's way to transfer files when email attachments fail. Well worth the money for this feature alone." CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:20:35.973" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="9660" PostId="5544" Text="It's not strictly true that it doesn't run on any Canon DSLRs.  Here's a build for the 350D: http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/350D" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:21:51.033" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="9661" PostId="7370" Score="3" Text="This is a dupe of... a lot of things... http://photo.stackexchange.com/search?q=backup" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:22:37.047" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9662" PostId="7370" Text="possible duplicate of [What method is best to take backups of your digital photos?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/292/what-method-is-best-to-take-backups-of-your-digital-photos)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:23:58.747" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9663" PostId="2138" Text="possible duplicate of [What method is best to take backups of your digital photos?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/292/what-method-is-best-to-take-backups-of-your-digital-photos)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:24:46.967" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9664" PostId="533" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/924 for the same question but *without* internet access." CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:27:07.913" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9665" PostId="1125" Text="No matter what tool you try, run dd on the card so you have a safe backup first. Easy enough to dd this back onto another SD card if needed." CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:29:34.650" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="9666" PostId="7303" Text="That's not how photosites work.  You have a photosite that records levels at a single location - in the Foveon chip three photosites are stacked, each measuring different values.  The values from those three photosites are directly input to a final output pixel.  In the Bayer chip, for any output pixel you have only one &quot;base&quot; photosite, in one channel - then you borrow from surrounding photosites to determine color.  The effect is that while there are 14 million output pixels, you really are taking smaller images and upsampling them to get the output image." CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:49:58.503" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9667" PostId="7303" Text="@matt:  Not sure I understand the example, in each of those colors each of the three photosites at a location would be excited differently. The point is that if you had a shocking pink thread it would not suddenly become blue or purple just because the background was blue and it had to &quot;borrow&quot; heavily from the background to guess at color." CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:54:35.563" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9668" PostId="7294" Text="I should note that none of those images had any post-processing applied, they are pretty much straight out of the RAW converter with minimal or no adjustment." CreationDate="2011-01-21T04:55:25.983" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9669" PostId="7285" Text="@matt:  It doesn't make any sense to refer to a pixel as &quot;any number of recorded values at a physical location&quot; because then the number tells you nothing.  You cannot then say if the pixel is usable by itself or if it requires input from other pixels.  It also greatly confuses things for people because the output image is referred to in &quot;pixel&quot; dimensions also, and that does have a hard and fast rule that a pixel has three color channels.  Something is plainly wrong with a definition where 21 million color separated &quot;pixels&quot; magically acquire two more color channels in output." CreationDate="2011-01-21T05:05:40.247" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9670" PostId="7285" Text="@jrista:  Since other people use the term &quot;sensel&quot; I can live with that, and with your definition of &quot;photosite&quot; although it still seems wrong to use a term that refers to an arbitrary number of sensors.  But I can't argue that your resulting description of the Bayer and Foveon cameras respectively is pretty clear." CreationDate="2011-01-21T05:07:40.243" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9671" PostId="7287" Score="2" Text="Uhhh, OK @zzzzBov... argumentative smart@ss answers (and comments) probably wont get you too much play. The community tends to value sincere efforts to provide truly helpful answers without a lot of snark mixed in. Please feel free to try again, though!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T05:54:16.573" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9672" PostId="7366" Score="2" Text="Canon's DO (diffractive optics) lenses were heralded with great marketing fanfare, but so far have failed to make a significant dent in the market. When was the last time you saw a Canon lens with a green ring?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T05:55:55.773" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9673" PostId="7354" Text="I think there needs to be a new tag for questions of the type &quot;how cam I make a computer do my job&quot; :P Instead of trying to mechanically sort through a mass of images based on a single criteria, how about shooting fewer, better pictures?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T06:05:43.760" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9675" PostId="7344" Text="I don't know for Nikon, but for Canon there's a release for user to update their firmware, but not for customs one." CreationDate="2011-01-21T07:36:26.217" UserId="3217" />
  <row Id="9676" PostId="7378" Text="ick. And then have to edit that smart collection every time you add a new keyword. :(" CreationDate="2011-01-21T07:43:56.900" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="9677" PostId="6364" Text="Sure - but the lab can (and does) do software rotation of the image - but it doesn't need access to EXIF info to get that right - that is determined uniquely by aspect ratio of the photo vs the paper.  Eg if you send a mix of landscape and portrait photos to the lab its printer will software rotate all the portraits to landscape to match the aspect ratio of the paper." CreationDate="2011-01-21T08:53:46.733" UserId="1638" />
  <row Id="9678" PostId="5409" Text="I actually noticed this one some images I was resizing for my web site last night.  There came a point where lowering the quality stopped decreasing the size, I am guessing this is the point where the exif was the limiting factor." CreationDate="2011-01-21T09:07:24.550" UserId="2498" />
  <row Id="9679" PostId="7285" Text="@Kendall I agree that the number of pixels alone doesn't tell the whole story, but that doesn't change the definition of a pixel. It's a picture element, a small square that makes up part of an image. There's a company in America that will remove the Bayer colour filter array from your camera. Currently they only do the 450D. But if I have one converted I wouldn't suddenly start calling it 4 megapixel camera. It's a 12 megapixel black and white camera." CreationDate="2011-01-21T09:30:28.670" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9680" PostId="7202" Text="I'm going to remove the canon tag, because this question seems generally interesting and we've got at least one good Nikon answer below that may be useful to someone else. " CreationDate="2011-01-21T09:54:37.380" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9681" PostId="7392" Text="Thanks for the links. From the beginners point of view the differences are not that big in wide angle and I probably take the 18-105mm one.&#xA;If I'm right the D3100 has automatic distortion (or was it vignetting?!) correction for some lenses. Does it work with these lenses and is it recommended to use this option?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T10:53:19.013" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="9682" PostId="7389" Score="3" Text="+1 a 70-200 will serve you well, esp if you can get f/2.8, a tripod would be very useful too to steady the camera when shooting at 200mm" CreationDate="2011-01-21T11:08:21.940" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9684" PostId="7317" Score="2" Text="Completely agree with the idea that a lot of great images can be taken after the sun has completely set. DPS did a great article on twilight recently - http://www.digital-photography-school.com/beyond-sunset-the-differen-phases-of-twilight" CreationDate="2011-01-21T11:25:56.543" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="9685" PostId="7365" Score="1" Text="@ysap are you serious? Do you think that Canon designed a 17-40 f/1.7-4.0 lens and decided to limit the aperture at the wide end for the sake of keeping it consistent? A 17mm f/1.7 *prime* lens would impressive enough, but a zoom..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T11:34:35.283" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9686" PostId="7387" Text="While not an exact duplicate, this other question also talks about lenses. Please have a look." CreationDate="2011-01-21T11:43:50.727" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="9687" PostId="7377" Text="+1 spot on, I reckon.  I used to use JungleDisk, but I've moved to carbonite recently.  " CreationDate="2011-01-21T11:51:49.207" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9688" PostId="7367" Score="1" Text="You hit the nail on the head when you did the sums on the 18-55 and realised the effective apertures at each end were 5.14mm and 9.82 the figures are similar for the constant aperture lens. The optical designs aren't that different actually, both change the size of the *effective* aperture when they zoom, the constant aperture one simply changes it slightly more, enough to keep the ratio of effective aperture to focal length the same." CreationDate="2011-01-21T11:54:19.633" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9689" PostId="7354" Score="1" Text="@Jukka what you're asking for is called **colour peaking** and it's found on high end digital video cameras (which are often manually focussed). I believe you can get it on the Canon 5D mkII via the Magic Lantern firmware hack." CreationDate="2011-01-21T12:11:04.053" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9690" PostId="7392" Text="Nikon keeps a suprisingly low profile on this feature o_O Didn't know that this even existed until you pointed it out! Also the D3100 has a automatic correction of chromatic abberations, but that was all I could find straight away :/" CreationDate="2011-01-21T12:38:30.250" UserId="3369" />
  <row Id="9691" PostId="7392" Text="Nikon keeps a suprisingly low profile on this feature o_O Didn't know that this even existed until you pointed it out! Also the D3100 has a automatic correction of chromatic abberations, but that was all I could find straight away :/ On the Nikon homepage there are the features listed under &quot;Image manipulation&quot; so I think the lens is not important, but don't take my word too serious. Better ask some salesman at your photo-dealer ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T12:55:30.360" UserId="3369" />
  <row Id="9692" PostId="7365" Text="@Matt Grum - not exactly; What I think is that, contrary to your rather extreme example, the design of the lens is such that they *could* make it wider at the 17mm end, but rather, they think the constant aperture is more preferable. The actual *potential* aperture difference is rather smaller than your example. Even much much cheaper lenses have a better aperture ratio on a bigger zoom than the numbers you provided, so obviously there is some design techniques to widen the tele end." CreationDate="2011-01-21T13:08:35.713" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9693" PostId="7398" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the tips. I think that I'll take the 18-105mm kit to experiment with the different focal lengths and get some experience. The 35mm prime lens has caught my attention already, but this is more like an option of addition after I learned how to use the dslr properly. &#xA;As I will be using it mostly when travelling the ability to change focal length is more useful for me right now without having to buy 2 lenses at once. Seems like a plan" CreationDate="2011-01-21T13:52:19.920" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="9694" PostId="7398" Score="1" Text="As a recent beginner myself, I can attest you'll learn a million times more using a higher quality lens with a wider aperture than something that has a bit more length to it.  Though, for traveling, I do understand the choice.  Best of luck." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:00:29.420" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9695" PostId="7391" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:03:45.603" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9696" PostId="7398" Score="1" Text="As a recent beginner myself, I can attest you'll learn a million times more using a lens with a bit more length to it, because you can find out easily which focal lengths are of interest to you." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:05:13.247" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9697" PostId="7370" Text="Not so sure, I did a search like that too and nothing covers media as much as this question. I admit there is some overlap but I would not close this one. Too bad we don't have a 'Merge Q&amp;A' function." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:06:33.007" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9698" PostId="7398" Score="1" Text="@Reid - Point taken.  I just had both (more length and then got a  faster lens) and have learned way more from the prime.  To each their own." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:07:49.180" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9699" PostId="7400" Text="I don't have an answer, but I get the feeling that &quot;flashgun&quot; is a UK expression, more than a US one? That said, I really don't know the generic US expression for a camera-mounted flash, if there is such an expression." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:09:43.293" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9700" PostId="7354" Text="@gerikson, why the snark? That's what computers are for - automating tasks. It's a perfectly reasonable request. And how does one learn to take those &quot;better pictures&quot;? By *taking lots of pictures*. Practice is valuable." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:10:09.513" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9701" PostId="7392" Text="It seems that the D5000, D3100, and D7000 models are providing an automatic distortion correction feature. I'll try that once I've got my hands on it." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:10:24.477" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="9702" PostId="7355" Text="Well, the proposed technique (highlighting areas that seemed to be in focus) would not have the problem of ear vs. eye. I'd guess that seeing which areas are relatively contrasty vs. not contrasty would be similarly interpretable - and if you're concerned with a series of similar images, then comparing them to each other rather than an absolute &quot;focusness&quot; quality seems like the right way to do it." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:12:29.497" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9703" PostId="7389" Text="Also having a wider lens wouldn't be useful?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:14:06.377" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="9704" PostId="7409" Score="2" Text="+1 for scoping out the focal length." CreationDate="2011-01-21T14:25:57.767" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9705" PostId="7412" Score="3" Text="Take a look at this recent question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7406/black-and-white-photograph-in-camera-or-in-post" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:03:06.457" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9706" PostId="7406" Score="1" Text="I was thinking about this just yesterday: it'd be nice to have a &quot;B&amp;W display mode) on-camera. This way you can get a quick preview of a B&amp;W scene while doing the real conversion back in post." CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:09:52.170" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9707" PostId="7414" Text="To my knowledge the D3100 doesn't normally sell the body only." CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:09:59.727" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9708" PostId="7354" Text="@Reid I should stop commenting before breakfast as I'm apparently grumpy then. The question is valid, I think (&quot;is there a technical solution to this problem&quot;). Maybe I'm just not seeing a situation where I have so many pictures I need an automated way to weed out the OOF shots. YMMV, as always!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:10:33.610" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9709" PostId="7413" Score="1" Text="I decided to ask the question of what color filters can help to improve the appearance of a black and white photo, so take a look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7415/how-can-using-a-color-filter-help-to-improve-a-black-and-white-photo" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:11:31.543" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9710" PostId="7414" Text="Hmm... in that case I'd definitely recommend the cheaper option. Of course, this depends on the asker's overall budget and intents. If this was going to be the *only* lens, then I'd go with the one with the wider range." CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:13:18.950" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9711" PostId="7414" Text="@Craig Walter, now I'm getting unsure what to buy :D My main area will be landscape and city trips while traveling. I can't really decide what's better for this purpose (35mm, 55mm, or zoom). I'm pretty sure I want to buy a prime lens sooner or later. But what's the right one to start with? Should be some kind of universal because I want to buy only one lens at first.&#xA;@rfusca I've seen several shops offering the body only" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:23:48.063" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="9712" PostId="7365" Text="@ysap In that case I misunderstood your comment, I apologise. It sounded like you were suggesting that all lenses changed aperture ratio when zoomed and that Canon were artificially limiting the aperture at the wide end for the sake of consistency! " CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:24:10.523" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9713" PostId="7417" Score="2" Text="...with the exception of any situations where one (undesired) colour channel is bright enough to cause lens flare" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:27:32.093" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9714" PostId="7415" Score="2" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/586/are-colour-filters-worth-using-with-digital-cameras" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:30:06.130" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9715" PostId="7414" Text="Sounds like another question (though there are many similar ones). Short answer: for landscape, get the widest prime you can afford. The 35mm 1.8 DX lens is probably your best tradeoff if you're on a tight budget." CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:36:14.497" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9716" PostId="7365" Score="2" Text="In any case I think its more like they designed the lens to be f/4.0 at 17mm (as any wider would affect performance) and then designed it to not get slower as it zoomed in, rather than designing it to be f/4.0 at the long end and deciding not to make it faster at the other end for consistency..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:40:08.533" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9717" PostId="7414" Text="Could be an alternative. The D3100 body + 35mm is almost the same price as the kit with 18-105mm ... hard desicion" CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:42:16.533" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="9718" PostId="7414" Text="I stand corrected btw, looks like some places recently started shipping body only." CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:52:43.447" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9719" PostId="7414" Text="The trade off is zoom for image quality, wider aperture, and lower weight. As I mentioned, I rarely use anything past 50mm myself, and 35 is a pretty good focal length even for portraits (at least on a crop-sensor camera like the D3100). However, it *may* not be wide enough for you; that's where the 18mm can come in handy. That's why I'd go with the 18-55; save the extra cash on the long end and get a nice prime when you can. " CreationDate="2011-01-21T15:52:56.140" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9720" PostId="7400" Score="2" Text="Not necessarily off-topic here, but maybe the question would fit http://english.stackexchange.com/ (which specifically covers etymology)." CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:27:07.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9721" PostId="7403" Score="1" Text="In the early days of flash-guns, 6 and probably 3 would not have applied. However the flash-gun would have been hand held and possibly triggered by a trigger lever somewhat like a firearm's trigger. Like a firearm of that era, the device relied on ignition of an explosive mixture of chemicals. Maybe the earliest flashguns even used something like a flintlock mechanism from a firearm - old guns were fired by igniting gunpowder &quot;priming&quot; in an external pan. It's easy to see how the term gun might have been applied to the early photographic tool." CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:30:04.550" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="9722" PostId="7417" Score="1" Text="Or to blow out an R, G, or B." CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:43:24.833" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9723" PostId="7355" Text="@Reid - I assume the intent of the OP is to have an automated process for removing bad pictures. My answer addresses this requirement by pointing out why this feature will be hard to accomplish, and I also gave examples in comments to other answers. If there is a human in the loop, then everything is possible..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:52:01.137" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9724" PostId="7407" Text="I'm not sure I'd call the difference minor...." CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:53:13.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9725" PostId="7405" Text="Agreed. If you are truly just starting out then you have no idea what focal length will suit your individual needs. Over the course of the years I find I lean significantly to the longer side; the buddy I go out shooting with leans more to the wide end. It's interesting seeing our different takes on the same vistas. Get the 18-105 and find out what length suits you most often. Then you can upgrade to primes in that range of focal length." CreationDate="2011-01-21T16:58:58.700" UserId="2873" />
  <row Id="9726" PostId="7285" Text="@Kendall: *&quot;Something is plainly wrong with a definition where 21 million color separated &quot;pixels&quot; magically acquire two more color channels in output.&quot;* That is why we need to normalize terms. A *pixel* is part of an image, not a physical device like a sensor. A *pixel* is a &quot;PIcture ELement&quot;, part of an image. Megapixels generally refers to the IMAGE SIZE produced by a sensor. How you arrive at those pixels can vary. Just because a Bayer sensor interpolates its data doesn't inherently make it &quot;wrong&quot;. The demosaicing algorithms today are very advanced, maximizing the info gathered." CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:21:39.343" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9727" PostId="7285" Text="Regarding 21.1 million photosites (each providing a single sensel in Bayer) do not directly map 1:1 to single pixels. There is overlap, and some &quot;extra&quot; photosites. Demosaicing algorithms also weight the color and luminance information to produce an accurate result. Color and luminance wise, I think there is minimal difference between Foveon and Bayer. A **real** difference would be color moire, which can indeed affect the quality of output and maximum resolution of a Bayer sensor. On the flip side, without an AA filter, Foveon suffers from more pronounced Monochrome moire. Pros and Cons both!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:25:18.277" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9728" PostId="7285" Text="Here is a little question for you all: Is the human retina more like a bayer array, or foveon stack? Is any one design particularly better than the other? Or are there simply different trade-offs?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:27:48.413" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9729" PostId="7407" Text="@mattdm - Fair enough, changed it." CreationDate="2011-01-21T17:27:48.840" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9730" PostId="7370" Text="@Itai Question *can* be merged when appropriate, if they're first closed - i.e. the answers get moved to the &quot;master&quot; question" CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:21:30.827" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9731" PostId="7417" Text="... Or for IR photography (basically, all of what @mattdm said ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:29:43.203" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9732" PostId="7421" Text="Exactly what I was thinking of." CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:37:40.060" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9733" PostId="7387" Text="@Guillaume other question?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:44:16.853" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9734" PostId="7404" Text="Image quality is a tricky one, I guess high ISO ability and depth of colour etc. I know both will be fine for large prints and sharpness. Lens hood for the 17-40mm is sorted as I have the one for the EF-S 17-55 from my 20D days." CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:49:27.447" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="9735" PostId="7401" Text="Thanks for your answer, it looks like I need to borrow my Dad's 5D and see what the shots I get out of it are like." CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:51:14.120" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="9736" PostId="7218" Text="Krasbit looks like it provides features close to what I'm looking for." CreationDate="2011-01-21T18:59:50.167" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="9737" PostId="7406" Score="6" Text="@Craig Walker - if you shoot RAW and set your camera to B&amp;W...thats pretty much whats happening" CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:26:55.573" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9738" PostId="7396" Text="These monitors actually have a *wider* gamut than iMacs because they use CCFL backlights instead of white LEDs. " CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:31:08.860" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9739" PostId="7421" Text="I've had a 190XPROB for a couple of years and find it's a stable and very versatile tripod." CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:32:16.010" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="9740" PostId="7423" Score="3" Text="I can understand catching a shot of a snail, but how much patience do you need to catch a shot of a bee or dragonfly? The only people with that kind of time are in federal prison. " CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:39:27.603" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9741" PostId="7423" Score="1" Text="It also depends on weather, time of year, time of day, place, etc. For example, dragonflies are sometimes surprisingly passive, just sitting still and enjoying sunshine. As long as you don't cast a shadow on them, they let you shoot them." CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:50:18.117" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="9742" PostId="7423" Score="8" Text="+1 Ninja training.  ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T19:52:49.723" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="9743" PostId="7423" Text="@Jukka Suomela - Indeed." CreationDate="2011-01-21T20:03:59.007" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9744" PostId="7426" Score="1" Text="Just don't say &quot;exposure triangle&quot;. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T20:52:27.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9745" PostId="5082" Score="3" Text="@sebastien.b: look closer... there are plenty of blurred people.  Non-answer, but how I suspect this image probably got so much particulate: I'd guess smoking was prevalent when this was taken, and extant in this scene.  Lots of particulates thus formed." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:00:40.373" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="9746" PostId="7416" Text="In a bit less details the history is also at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_%28photography%29" CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:05:17.093" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9747" PostId="7360" Text="The distortion figures at http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/465-canon_1585_3556is don't look that terrible. It's noticeable, true, but EF 17-40 has similar figures at 17mm (especially with full-frame cameras) and I can live quite fine with that." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:15:33.873" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9748" PostId="7360" Text="I only really mentioned the distortion because it jumped out at me in the images I saw. Usually I don't notice it unless the image has lots of straight lines near the edge of the frame." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:21:38.630" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9749" PostId="7404" Text="@Matt Grum - Good point about the lens hood not optimal for APS-C. I can think of at least one EF-S prime lens - the EF-S 60mm. Now, can you please clarify the &quot;sharpness advantage&quot;? One can think that b/c APS-C uses only the center of the image circle, then the image, as a whole, will be sharper than ona FF - or did I misunderstand you?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:22:13.600" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="9750" PostId="7424" Score="2" Text="Watches carefully around corners for PETA..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:24:19.610" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9751" PostId="7426" Text="@mattdm I was so waiting for that comment..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:24:47.503" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9752" PostId="7404" Score="1" Text="@ysap If you take a FF camera and an APS-C with the same megapixel count, same lens, the FF camera will have bigger pixels and so will be less demanding on lens resolving power of the lens. If your FF lens is abismal in the corners you might get better average sharpness with a crop, usually with full frame you get sharper centre + slightly softer corners with wide angles, and sharper images everywhere with telephotos. There was a question on this exact subject, see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3370/with-all-other-things-equal-in-a-dslr-will-a-larger-sensor-produce-a-sharper-im" CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:29:57.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9753" PostId="7421" Text="Are tripods built specifically for one type of camera, or can they be used for many types? I ask because I was looking at this tripod, it sounds like it is primarily for SLRs. Would it also be possible to use it with a point-and-shoot? Thanks, I know nothing about tripods." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:30:19.450" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="9754" PostId="7361" Text="Yep, like EF-S 10-22mm which is so wide compared to 15 or 17mm that it will blow your eyes out" CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:41:24.020" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9755" PostId="7421" Score="1" Text="@Jason Tripods have a standard screw size on top - 1/4&quot; diameter.  While such a tripod is most commonly found with a DSLR, you could also use a point-and-shoot camera assuming your point-and-shoot has a tripod screw mount." CreationDate="2011-01-21T21:55:19.173" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="9756" PostId="7430" Score="2" Text="+1 - Excellent point.  A classical concert definitely isn't the same atmosphere as a rock concert!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:09:21.430" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="9757" PostId="7423" Text="+1 LOL, ninja... Yeah, long macro lens and patience is the key, assuming you aren't the type to kill and photograph as some do." CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:17:41.667" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9758" PostId="7308" Text="There might have been a reliance on whatever the electronic equivalent of reciprocity failure is on a particular sensor involved here as well (as I recall, it was all Kodak back in the Before Time), leading to a cargo cult usage over time." CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:29:53.480" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9759" PostId="7285" Text="@jrista:  I already agreed with your definition, talk to Matt about his definition for a Pixel which is at odds with yours. Yes how you can arrive at those pixels varies but you simply cannot use less than three to make a complete output pixel. @matt: It's always a 12 MP sensor because the accepted definition of &quot;MP&quot; in describing a camera is really giving you the sensel count.  After converting to B&amp;W you are getting a camera that is actually recording as many values as it is outputting, instead of fewer." CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:35:50.687" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9760" PostId="7308" Text="@stan you might be right but unless the issue is the shutter using a longer exposure + ND filter shouldn't make any difference as it's the same amount of light coming into the camera" CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:39:16.473" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9761" PostId="7324" Text="Overexposing greatly helps with noise, but it wont improve saturation, in fact it's the opposite of what you should be doing as it can lead to one colour channel clipping (even if you have a 14bit ADC) which is very bad for colour reproduction!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:41:59.730" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9762" PostId="7421" Score="2" Text="Another alternative (and one I have owned and absolutely loved) is the Benbo ( http://www.patersonphotographic.com/benbo-tripods.htm ), a similar concept that makes the Manfrotto version look a little bit stiff and inflexible by comparison. They're not as easy to find, but there's nothing you can't do with 'em." CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:45:02.313" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9763" PostId="7403" Text="Wikipedia says: &quot;Speedlite&quot; is a Canon trade name. &quot;Speedlight&quot; is a Ricoh brand name. &quot;The brand names are intended to indicate that strobe flashes produce much shorter and more intense bursts of light than earlier photographic lighting systems, such as flashbulbs, or continuous lamps used in some studio situations.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speedlite" CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:46:59.710" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="9764" PostId="7308" Text="@matt: Shouldn't -- but that's the definition of reciprocity failure, that the normal relationship between intensity and duration, that modifying either by the same amount will have the same effect on the recording medium, fails at the extremes. If the result was a slight overall underexposure (if some freed electrons fell back into captivity over time) and the photog wasn't aware of the physics behind the phenomenon, it could have given rise to a saturation myth." CreationDate="2011-01-21T22:53:49.683" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9765" PostId="7308" Text="@stan I get that, but when people talk about reciprocity failure it's usually due to the film (or sensor in this case) - the point I was making was that you should get exactly the same amount of light hitting the sensor in each case (short exposure vs long exposure + ND filter), unless the reciprocity failure was in shutter or the ND filter!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:08:18.950" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9766" PostId="7428" Score="2" Text="+1 for the water glass metaphor" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:30:18.193" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9767" PostId="7308" Text="No, not necessarily. That would depend on the charge accumulation being perfect. The extended time *might* allow a partial re-uptake (essentially the same phenomenon as one gets with silver halide technology, where energy loss from individual electrons over time is the culprit); reciprocity failure is predominantly a time-domain problem, even in film." CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:30:28.950" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9768" PostId="7428" Text="Shutter = tap open time, aperture = pipe size, ISO = pressure?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:31:12.843" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9769" PostId="7428" Text="Better yet, ISO = size of the glass." CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:31:54.527" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9770" PostId="7285" Text="I don't think me and jrista are in disagreement (for a change ;) about the definition of a pixel, I'm just taking the definition of a picture element and extending it to the sensor (something the camera manufacturers did a while ago when coining the term &quot;megapixel&quot;) and just as you can have images with one or more components per pixel, you can also have sensors with one or more light sensitive elements per pixel. Just because the sensel count matches the pixel count in a Bayer camera doesn't mean a camera with 14 million sensels also has 14 million pixels... " CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:36:59.520" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9771" PostId="7285" Text="@jrista *Is any one design particularly better than the other?* I think the Foveon design is clearly better (in anything but very low light) however I don't think it's three times better (the consensus seems to be it's more like 2x)" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:38:24.683" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9772" PostId="7432" Text="Will you just be taking pictures or making prints and albums also?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:43:51.777" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9773" PostId="7432" Text="I guess that will have to be negotiated as well... Hmmm, this is more complex than I realized... Sigh. I'll probably make an album or two for them, and give them some credit to buy pictures at my website, but other then that, well, I'd have to think some more... Anything that can help me figure out pricing, well, I'd like to hear it!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:44:56.283" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9774" PostId="7303" Text="It's not fair to say the Bater sensor demosaicing is effectively upsampling the colour channels, what's going on with algorithms like the adaptive homogeneity-directed interpolation is far more sophisticated and exploits strong statistical correlations between colour channels that occur in real images to do much better than just filling in the gaps. " CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:45:10.353" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9775" PostId="7303" Text="If you have large areas of different intensities of pure magenta then you will indeed find the red and blue sensels at each pixel are recording the same values as magenta is the mixture of equal parts red and blue. Yes if you have a thread one pixel wide the Bayer wont be able to see it, but if you have three times the number of pixels in a Bayer sensor it should be able to cover the thread with more than one pixel. Anyway one pixel threads sharply resolved by the lens are just as rare as grey cats..." CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:49:16.697" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9776" PostId="7308" Text="fair enough, I can't see it having a noticeable effect on saturation in either case!" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:50:27.743" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9777" PostId="7430" Score="1" Text="Sounds like a great niche for mirrorless cameras." CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:54:32.550" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9778" PostId="7434" Text="How do you go about finding what other photographers charge?" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:54:41.743" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9779" PostId="7434" Text="Around here it's pretty common to put it on one's website. It can be different it the US, but I found at least http://www.erinmichelle.net/#Info/Pricing/" CreationDate="2011-01-21T23:59:16.337" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9780" PostId="7436" Text="Good, I feel about right for what I asked then:-) " CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:08:27.133" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9781" PostId="7428" Score="1" Text="Indeed, ISO = Size of the glass. Pressure would be the amount of available light. Sun = Fire engine with 2500GPM pump; Candle = water pressure in the shower from my gravity-fed springhouse while my son washed dishes in the kitchen." CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:17:46.867" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="9782" PostId="7435" Score="1" Text="+1 - Great shots!  " CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:23:34.097" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9783" PostId="7423" Text="@kacalapy not hardly that long. I have on many occasions sat on my back porch for no more than 5 to 10 minutes with a book, only to find that I have several bees and or butterflies interested in the flower pots within arms reach of my chair, or even resting on my shoulder or arm. The same ones that took off running when I opened the door to come out and sit down. If you know where they are (where the flowers are) and are there on a regular basis, you just become a normal part of the environment for them, so getting their portait is no big deal." CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:23:49.560" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="9784" PostId="7437" Score="3" Text="That seems kind of... not nice. " CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:27:32.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9785" PostId="7285" Text="I think neither design is *clearly* better than the other. There are obvious benefits to Foveon, however there are still benefits to Bayer that Foveon currently can't touch, and may never exceed (as both will progress.) An easy one is how far Bayer has taken us in terms of size and resolution...a prime example of which is the 80mp Leaf Aptus II medium format sensor. I also don't think that Bayer is a particularly *flawed* design, given that our retinas are basically designed the same way (perhaps more like Fuji's SuperCCD SR between our rods and cones). " CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:29:25.367" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9786" PostId="7428" Text="@Craig, thanks for the +1. I have a lot of fun using this while teaching. Makes it simple." CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:36:27.107" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="9787" PostId="7437" Score="1" Text="I'm not advocating starting a long back and forth conversation, that would be not nice, but just getting several photographers initial (likely canned) email quotes would be very informative." CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:40:00.623" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9788" PostId="7439" Text="+1 shafts of light, GREAT idea" CreationDate="2011-01-22T00:51:16.917" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9789" PostId="7438" Score="1" Text="definitely do not use flash. Like driving in fog you dont use high beams. same concept." CreationDate="2011-01-22T01:37:27.487" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9790" PostId="7443" Score="1" Text="I've wondered this same thing....whats the ettiquette?" CreationDate="2011-01-22T01:44:44.277" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9791" PostId="7444" Text="On top of that, if you let them know you are willing to work for free or close to it, I am sure you will get some takers. After all, they are in the business of making money." CreationDate="2011-01-22T01:48:03.790" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9792" PostId="7442" Text="+1 Good stuff and its general business advice really.  I've owned a small business before and you really have to price according to your costs.  Its good economics!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T01:48:31.573" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9793" PostId="7442" Score="1" Text="Jay, you really are an extremely valuable asset to this community. Thanks for helping us newbies out:-)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T01:59:41.567" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9794" PostId="7445" Text="To clarify, I am not planning on photographing the microfilm itself directly (the slides are very small) but to photograph the microfilm reader's screen, which projects the microfilm in a larger form." CreationDate="2011-01-22T02:26:23.260" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="9795" PostId="7438" Score="5" Text="Don't use _on camera_ flash. Light from the side or behind, like che's suggestion, could be useful." CreationDate="2011-01-22T02:33:22.033" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9796" PostId="7444" Text="@kacalapy: But on the downside, you'll be working in hugely lucrative business for free." CreationDate="2011-01-22T02:54:37.793" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9797" PostId="7432" Score="2" Text="Make sure you've carefully considered the &quot;should I do this&quot; question; see e.g. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3467/how-hard-would-be-photographing-a-wedding-with-just-prime-lens" CreationDate="2011-01-22T03:11:33.643" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9798" PostId="7432" Text="@Reid: I've considered it. And it's not the first wedding I've shot, it would just be the first one that it'd really count..." CreationDate="2011-01-22T03:24:21.947" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9799" PostId="3472" Text="After reading that article, I realize that I might actually consider taking on a wedding. And, well, yes, I haven't shot one professionally, but I have at least 4 weddings which to me count, 2 of which I was the primary photographer (Neither could afford anything, it was literally me or nothing...)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T03:33:28.383" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9800" PostId="7334" Text="That might have work... but I just broke the mirror right off it's hinges! Thanks for trying though. :P" CreationDate="2011-01-22T03:34:04.640" UserId="2880" />
  <row Id="9801" PostId="7426" Score="1" Text="Explains exactly *why* changing a setting results in an outcome. For example, why exactly does a large aperture create a small depth of field etc." CreationDate="2011-01-22T03:41:47.180" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9802" PostId="7432" Text="I'm doing the same this year, but for a cousin, so it's a freeebie. Not to mention, it's also a good excuse to buy some better lenses... ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T03:52:58.297" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9803" PostId="7438" Score="1" Text="Now you've got me wishing I had a foggy day here." CreationDate="2011-01-22T04:06:42.120" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9804" PostId="7453" Score="3" Text="LOL...so I haven't even read your post yet, but I was hoping you'd chime in on this." CreationDate="2011-01-22T04:07:15.990" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9805" PostId="7453" Score="3" Text="I'm grateful you find my answers useful. I'm finding the chance to tackle a lot of stuff I 'learned the hard way' over the years in many of these questions... If it helps shorten the path for others, I think that's awesome!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T04:29:16.743" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9806" PostId="7442" Text="Thanks guys! I'll keep writin' 'em as long as people find 'em useful!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T04:38:50.323" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9807" PostId="7423" Text="+1 for Ninja training and camping out in a flower bed. I regret that I have but one vote to give for this post. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T05:13:31.043" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9808" PostId="7453" Score="3" Text="Wow, great answer! I'm not even looking to be a second shooter or get into wedding photography, but I still found it interesting and informative :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-22T05:22:10.453" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9809" PostId="7453" Text="I appreciate the shout-out!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T05:28:26.130" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9810" PostId="7070" Text="Yes, you can do that, though I would say the steps I described in my questions are probably simpler, right? Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-22T06:38:01.767" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="9811" PostId="7385" Text="Yes, I had tried that, not working." CreationDate="2011-01-22T06:38:23.573" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="9812" PostId="7378" Text="Interesting, unfortunately doesn't work for me, I have a *huge* number of keywords. Copying and pasting them into a text editor and saving the file leads to a 45 *Kb* monster. That's a lot of keywords. Lightroom won't let me enter all of them as a smart collection rule. Interesting idea though, thx." CreationDate="2011-01-22T06:45:20.713" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="9813" PostId="7428" Text="Great analogy.." CreationDate="2011-01-22T07:48:49.847" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9814" PostId="7387" Text="The 17-55mm is horrible? If it's the Canon 17-55mm IS then I can assure you it is not! :P" CreationDate="2011-01-22T08:19:31.127" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9815" PostId="163" Text="I too sort them into event folders. Sometimes I'll shoot a gig for example then head to a friend's place and snap some photos there. In that case I'll end up with `2011/10 October/21 Some Band` and `2011/10 October/21 Joe's Party`." CreationDate="2011-01-22T08:23:42.477" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9816" PostId="7285" Text="I should have stated I was talking about the pure design being better from a photographic point of view, if you compare the SD15 to a 4.5MP Bayer sensor the difference is clear. The Foveon is however more difficult manufacture, which you could say is a fault in the design... " CreationDate="2011-01-22T09:21:50.560" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9817" PostId="7445" Score="1" Text="If you just need to photograph a screen, then even the cheapest $30 tripod will do - I still think the quality would be better though with a direct backlit surface shot using macro. " CreationDate="2011-01-22T09:49:00.450" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9818" PostId="7303" Text="My cameras resolve one-pixel wide thread, hair grass, branches, and other objects all the time. That's because nature and most objects offer detail that is similar as it recedes.  There's nothing rare at all about single-pixel lines, look at the full size version of the boat image I posted at the rigging on the boat." CreationDate="2011-01-22T09:52:48.383" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="9819" PostId="7303" Text="The boat riggings are about 2 pixels wide, and with a 15mp Bayer sensor you'd expect to cover them with more than one photosite. The Foveon definitely has an advantage with fine colour details, but eventually a Bayer sensor with sufficient megapixel count will overcome that... which is why it will be very interesting if they can pull off the SD1 as it will put Simga in the lead, at least for a while." CreationDate="2011-01-22T10:05:47.493" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9820" PostId="7441" Score="1" Text="+1 for making Wikipedia look pale with its [citation needed]'s" CreationDate="2011-01-22T12:24:13.417" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9821" PostId="7459" Text="The more advanced pack systems can also be programmed to, for example, shoot off in a certain order with various delays." CreationDate="2011-01-22T12:37:45.160" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9822" PostId="7304" Text="It seems that when you post the first answer on this website you can include only one link. Now I can post more links." CreationDate="2011-01-22T13:29:25.513" UserId="3357" />
  <row Id="9823" PostId="7428" Text="we can define the perfect exposure here based on how thirsty you are :), great one." CreationDate="2011-01-22T13:49:16.963" UserId="3357" />
  <row Id="9824" PostId="7449" Text="Both Canon and Nikon offer small flashes that can me mounted on the filter ring of the lens. With these, you have to option of varying the light intensity across the frame, thereby gaining some dimensionality. They also offer TTL. " CreationDate="2011-01-22T15:14:34.113" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9825" PostId="7428" Text="I was staring to think in that sort of direction.  You've nailed it for me! thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T15:17:11.987" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9826" PostId="7427" Text="excellent ideas for exercises.  I'll use some of that.  thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T15:17:42.360" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9827" PostId="7463" Text="Thanks for the link.  I'll check it out :)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T15:18:13.873" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9828" PostId="7070" Text="simpler but manual. I have a running grudge against computer software which forces me to repeatedly run through efforts that it could do automatically." CreationDate="2011-01-22T16:39:16.910" UserId="530" />
  <row Id="9829" PostId="7465" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the site!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T17:28:23.853" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9830" PostId="7455" Score="1" Text="THATS HOT. WELL DONE" CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:12:59.890" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9831" PostId="7295" Text="@Craig Walker: Thanks! The accepted answer goes to you because this is closer to what I was looking for. I finally get it. I still think that spot metering is harder to use in priority modes simply because doing exposure compensation in priority modes seems clunkier to me. However, I do understand that it makes sense to use spot metering in a priority mode." CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:28:13.450" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9832" PostId="7296" Text="@rfusca, thanks. I did find your answer helpful (why I +1'ed it the other day)... but I feel like Craig's answer is more clear and closer to what I was looking for (even though it has less votes). I am going to accept that one. If I could accept a second one, I would accept yours as well because I think both answers do a good job of telling the whole story." CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:29:04.057" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9833" PostId="7295" Text="I'd like to add that, in some sense, spot metering is like a contract with you and the camera. You are telling the camera that you &quot;promise&quot; to point at something grayish when the camera is tells you it is a proper exposure. When the camera tells you that you are a couple stops off from a correct exposure, you promise to point at something black or white. To do anything else would result in a technically incorrect exposure (even though it may actually look good). Does that make sense? It just changes the way you adjust the exposure meter." CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:33:14.273" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9834" PostId="7385" Text="I pinged someone on the LR team, we'll see if they stop by with any wisdom for us." CreationDate="2011-01-22T18:38:52.943" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="9835" PostId="7295" Text="I think it's something that, over time and practice, you'll come to understand more. I've been studying exposure (online and in-camera) for around 6 months now and it feels nearly second nature to me now." CreationDate="2011-01-22T19:14:25.407" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9836" PostId="7295" Text="I like the contract metaphor. I'd tweak it one step further: instead of a contract, it's more like an understanding between friends. Both the camera and the photographer are doing the &quot;best they can&quot; to get the exposure right. When they work together it'll come out nice... but if one wants to go in their own direction strongly enough, the other has to just shrug its shoulders and say &quot;oh well, whatever you want.&quot; :-P" CreationDate="2011-01-22T19:17:23.560" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9837" PostId="7296" Text="The Stack Exchange model has the upvote/accept split for a good reason; it allows for the difference between &quot;a good, useful answer to the public&quot; and &quot;the answer that helps the asker the most&quot;. The latter is worth far less than the former rep-wise, so don't feel bad about accepting a non-highest answer. It's all good. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-22T19:20:42.073" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9839" PostId="7465" Text="Have you tried hovering your cursor over the question mark? It has usually told me what's happened." CreationDate="2011-01-22T19:48:38.410" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9841" PostId="7296" Text="@Tom - No worries.  They're both largely the same." CreationDate="2011-01-22T20:44:19.583" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9842" PostId="7480" Score="2" Text="+1 They have a couple of others - Sv (Sensitivity) and TAv (Shutter/Apperture) on the semi-pro line." CreationDate="2011-01-22T21:00:02.917" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9843" PostId="7453" Score="1" Text="Awesome answer." CreationDate="2011-01-22T21:30:30.200" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9844" PostId="7477" Score="1" Text="Audio/Video Television :P" CreationDate="2011-01-22T22:04:49.153" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9845" PostId="7355" Text="My reading of the question is that the OP does seem to be pretty clearly describing a mixed initiative process, not a fully automated one (e.g., &quot;highlight in focus and out of focus ares&quot;)." CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:16:51.137" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9846" PostId="7412" Text="And for choosing black and white vs. color, see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1757/when-is-black-and-white-likely-to-enhance-an-image" CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:23:16.857" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9847" PostId="7412" Text="btw, I don't think this is a dupe" CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:23:37.730" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9848" PostId="7406" Text="@cryovac, welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:24:08.760" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9849" PostId="7481" Score="5" Text="The zoom may be too slow in reality. You probably need a fixed f/2.8 for a zoom at night. f/5.6 is very difficult to use unless you have a LOT of light." CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:43:21.427" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9850" PostId="7483" Score="1" Text="&quot;Music&quot; being the composition itself. Think notes on paper." CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:47:08.067" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="9851" PostId="7484" Text="+1 - Definitely want to eliminate the polarizer if you can (lose light there too otherwise)." CreationDate="2011-01-23T00:02:07.300" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9852" PostId="5432" Text="It depends, of course. Some people contribute intellectual works to the public domain specifically with the intent of enabling further commercial derivatives if someone finds that useful. Many proponents of BSD-style licensing are in favor of this approach, for example, and for pragmatic reasons there also exist &quot;weak copyleft&quot; licenses like the LGPL." CreationDate="2011-01-23T01:55:38.760" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9854" PostId="5432" Text="And this is specifically why Creative Commons offers both SA and non-SA versions of their licenses. Let's not forget the Share Alike license that *this* site uses!" CreationDate="2011-01-23T01:56:25.640" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9856" PostId="7076" Score="1" Text="So, this makes a good example of a fine equipment-recommendation question that really just isn't right for this site. See http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/529/" CreationDate="2011-01-23T02:13:07.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9857" PostId="7488" Score="1" Text="It doesn't really matter where you place your light source, the key is having two, evenly lit, white light sources (reflected or direct) on the sides." CreationDate="2011-01-23T02:55:11.067" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="9858" PostId="7488" Text="@Jędrek Kostecki - True, I'm just presenting the &quot;book&quot; definition here as it is the simplest and quickest means to the effect." CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:00:48.060" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9859" PostId="7487" Text="By the way, I commented on Flickr that I'm pleased and flattered that your daughter liked the shot. That seriously makes my day." CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:02:08.183" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9860" PostId="7488" Text="I've got to get that book... I really need to learn more about lighting... Hmmm..." CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:08:10.093" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9861" PostId="7488" Score="2" Text="@Pearsonartphoto - I can't say enough good things about it. Worth the price, in my opinion." CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:22:52.493" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9862" PostId="7488" Text="It actually seems like you'd get a darker black if you used something like two softboxes and had a long distance to your background." CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:41:58.867" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9864" PostId="7488" Text="@Evan Krall - The shot posted was done with this setup, using a single softbox, it's pretty black. I'm not sure how you get it more black than that and I had flames in the shot to boot! In any case, regardless of alternative means of getting the shot (and I'm more than open to examples of such), this is the technique of dark field lighting that rfusca asked about since I can state categorically how it was done. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:56:04.980" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9865" PostId="7492" Score="1" Text="Thank you so much for your help...I think I will have to make the jump into a new camera, most likely the 60D! I appreciate your time :)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T04:00:12.633" UserId="3402" />
  <row Id="9866" PostId="7449" Score="1" Text="Aye, I think I mentioned those. I called them ring flashes, as they tend to &quot;ring&quot; around the end of the lens. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T04:08:34.020" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9867" PostId="7441" Text="Haha! Aye, Wikipedia has slacked off lately. Guess they are too busy making money now to actually be a real encyclopedia. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T04:10:42.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9868" PostId="7488" Score="1" Text="So, its just lighting from the bounce off the reflected spill?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T04:26:49.200" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9869" PostId="7491" Score="6" Text="You do mean a 60D, right?  Because there is also a Canon D60, and it won't take all the same lenses as a Rebel XT.  If you do mean the 60D, you might want to edit your question to help people searching for '60D'." CreationDate="2011-01-23T04:42:26.373" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9870" PostId="7467" Text="It'd be awesome if we could get someone with Actual Science to further explain, but as I understand it, a protein called rhodopsin is required for the low-light rod cells in the retina to function. This protein is broken down by light, which effectively lowers &quot;ISO&quot;. When it's dark, the rhodopsin replenishes, raising sensitivity (with the tradeoff of poorer color response and less sharpness)." CreationDate="2011-01-23T05:12:18.753" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9871" PostId="7467" Text="But really, the eye isn't quite an analogy, because it's basically *an example of the thing you're already explaining*, except incredibly complicated. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T05:13:14.460" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9872" PostId="3954" Text="A few years ago, someone made a &quot;periodic table of canon dslrs&quot;. The site it appeared at no longer exists, and since it's out of date it doesn't really answer the question -- shame it wasn't updated. But, here's a link to the wayback version: http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20070322231249/http://presscorr.com/dslr/dslr.gif" CreationDate="2011-01-23T05:17:35.420" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9873" PostId="7467" Text="@mattdm: ha, ok. I still find the eye example to be helpful. I totally made it up when I was learning about exposure. When I've tried to explain aperture to people, I can see the light bulb go off in their mind when I relate it to a pupil. ::shrugs::." CreationDate="2011-01-23T05:24:49.793" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9875" PostId="7495" Text="Tv does indeed mean &quot;Time Variable&quot;, as Av does indeed mean &quot;Aperture variable&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-23T07:37:38.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9876" PostId="7480" Text="Sv sounds like P mode on a Canon. TAv would be like manual mode, assuming ISO is always independently controlled like on a Canon." CreationDate="2011-01-23T07:39:14.887" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="9877" PostId="7328" Score="1" Text="Thanks! I enjoyed the article on your site. I agree with you that manual + spot metering is a great combo. If you look at the question I referenced in this question, others were trying to emphasize that you can spot meter while in a priority mode. I finally realize that it makes sense to do that -- but it certainly is easier (IMO) to use manual mode since it's easier to do exposure compensation. Thanks again!" CreationDate="2011-01-23T08:03:01.200" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9878" PostId="7331" Text="I think this answer also deserves a +1. Basically the same as what the accepted answer said... but I think this is helpful too. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-23T08:04:37.050" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9879" PostId="5432" Text="@mattdm, yes, I agree that it depends on the intent of the original creator. The problem with 'public domain' is that we can't be sure of the creator's intent, although it often means the creator simply does not care." CreationDate="2011-01-23T08:20:56.557" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9881" PostId="7493" Text="Last FD mount camera was introduced in 1990, so the remaining FD lenses are very old stuff." CreationDate="2011-01-23T09:07:59.230" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9882" PostId="7328" Text="@tom thanks for your comments - it's always nice to know when I've helped someone. Good luck with the new technique." CreationDate="2011-01-23T09:20:57.293" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9884" PostId="7389" Text="If you can get near the artists, yes. If it fits your budget a wide lens is always good for a nice overview if you want that effect." CreationDate="2011-01-23T11:22:47.447" UserId="3369" />
  <row Id="9885" PostId="7498" Score="3" Text="I don't think picking an area that should be black (or too dark grey) will work, as a black object will be black regardless of the lighting. However I agree that anything from darkish grey to white should work as long as it has identical RGB values. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:01:17.593" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="9886" PostId="7254" Text="I agree, it's crazy. The trouble is in trying to protect themselves, they annoy their real customers (me) at the same time." CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:19:02.457" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="9887" PostId="7250" Text="@Itai yeah, I think I will. I've always been a bit reluctant to pop that card in and out so much, but I guess it's designed for it!" CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:21:16.293" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="9888" PostId="7250" Text="@drfrogsplat I tried that but it still didn't work. It would not really solve my problem anyway as deleting the old files is exactly what I wanted to avoid." CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:22:15.510" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="9889" PostId="7495" Text="Thanks, edited the question!" CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:23:48.870" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="9890" PostId="7253" Text="@ysap, True, it doesn't load as a USB mass storage device, but it does come up as a &quot;digital camera&quot; in windows under My Computer so you can see some files (just my problem subset), but not the true file structure. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:24:45.087" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="9891" PostId="7367" Score="2" Text="Don't forget that both 17 and 18mm represent extreme retrofocus lenses -- the actual physical aperture size may be substantially different from the apparent aperture. That is, the hole you see will appear to be a different size depending on which end of the lens you are looking through. The same goes for the compact tele zooms, which are true telephoto lenses at the longer focal lengths (ie, their optical length is longer than their physical length, which is not true for most of the lenses we colloquially call &quot;telephoto&quot; simply because of their long focal length)." CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:32:48.993" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9892" PostId="7495" Text="Interestingly, I'd rather consider the *exposure time* variable when shooting in Av since I select an aperture and the camera varies the exposure time. Of course, both are variables, but somehow it feels odd that it's more variable when I'm the one who varies them ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T12:50:15.263" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="9893" PostId="7488" Score="1" Text="@rfusca - Yep, that's all that it is. Simple, really, once you know." CreationDate="2011-01-23T13:48:10.083" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9894" PostId="7500" Score="1" Text="I do not know Adobe Lightroom; which features do you find useful? How does it help to organize pictures in a large collection?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T14:14:27.697" UserId="2960" />
  <row Id="9895" PostId="7467" Text="I'm not saying it's completely bad to use. I'm just sayin' the pupil *is* an aperture (and the iris, the aperture stop). So that part is explained really well by looking at the eye. When it comes time to talk about the rest of the system, though, probably time to move on." CreationDate="2011-01-23T14:25:17.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9896" PostId="7499" Text="I've notified the mods that you'd like community wiki for the question." CreationDate="2011-01-23T14:32:46.953" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9897" PostId="7480" Score="1" Text="@jrista - Sv just allows ISO adjustment using the dials, Pentax also has a program mode, but I'm not sure of the similarity to Canon there as most reviewers seem to think Pentax's implementation is unique. The TAv mode is essentially the same as Canon's manual mode with auto ISO (though, not entirely), in Pentax manual mode is totally manual. They are convenient to have on the mode dial, it's a faster access to some settings without going to the menu." CreationDate="2011-01-23T14:37:59.990" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9898" PostId="7500" Text="It maintains a database describing all the photos you add to it. When you add a photo you &quot;tag&quot; each image with attributes describing it. Those attributes are completely arbitrary and up to you to decide; typically for one photo I might have &quot;City&quot;, &quot;London&quot;, &quot;Landscape&quot;, &quot;Night&quot;, &quot;London Eye&quot;... use whatever fits the image. Lightroom then gives you a ton of options for filtering your photo collection based on tags you've specified, as well as automatically harvested metadata such as lens, ISO setting, date taken etc. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T14:38:21.157" UserId="3407" />
  <row Id="9899" PostId="7493" Score="1" Text="There are some pretty old lenses around... It's a good thing to beware of if you're looking to buy a lens from a place like Craigs List or otherwise used place." CreationDate="2011-01-23T15:35:10.310" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9900" PostId="7491" Text="@drewbenn: I'm going to assume that the user mean a 60D, the D60 is very old indeed. Good catch. Still, the D60 is an EF lens series, so it just won't take the EF-S lenses..." CreationDate="2011-01-23T15:39:04.223" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9901" PostId="7491" Score="2" Text="Which lenses are they? While they may work with a 60D, better lenses will improve your images more than a new body will." CreationDate="2011-01-23T15:47:55.543" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="9902" PostId="7492" Score="2" Text="Great answer, but for completeness you should add that the EF-s lenses aren't compatible with the D30, D60 and 10D as well." CreationDate="2011-01-23T16:05:57.413" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9903" PostId="7498" Score="2" Text="Yeah, what Nick said. Basically, the closer to the middle the color is, the more data there is to work with. (Blown-out white is as useless as pure black.)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T16:09:48.597" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9904" PostId="7500" Score="2" Text="I like the fact that light room never edits your actual photo, instead storing a list of the edits and changes you've applied. That way you can always get back to your original if needed" CreationDate="2011-01-23T16:12:10.617" UserId="1271" />
  <row Id="9905" PostId="7502" Score="3" Text="The answers you already got are correct. There are many names for this depending on the camera or lens manufacturer: DMF (Direct Manual Focus), AF+MF, Full-Time Manual Focus (Lens) and Quick-shift Autofocus are the ones I remember early Sunday morning :)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T16:53:31.117" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9906" PostId="7499" Score="7" Text="Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8/how-can-i-organise-my-photos-better" CreationDate="2011-01-23T17:09:08.777" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="9907" PostId="7498" Text="It actually was Lightroom's help file that got me confused as it states to choose a spot that should be neutral light gray. Now when looking at the white balance selector tool again, it actually asks for *target neutral* not for *target neutral grey*. Apparently I subconsciously appended &quot;grey&quot; where it shouldn't be." CreationDate="2011-01-23T17:18:40.353" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9908" PostId="7498" Text="Also, I did test varying the exposure and sampling the white balance from the exactly same pixel and - as expected - temperature and tint got calibrated in the exactly same manner. I can't remember what was so hard to understand when I asked this question, as it is all so clear now." CreationDate="2011-01-23T17:23:16.257" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9909" PostId="7500" Score="1" Text="Picasa is also non-destructive by default." CreationDate="2011-01-23T17:27:51.367" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9910" PostId="7502" Text="I had the lens for a few days and loved this feature. It let me use the camera's brain to auto focus fast then dial it in by hand when taking pictures at close range where the auto focus seemed to have trouble getting a lock." CreationDate="2011-01-23T18:06:49.947" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9911" PostId="7508" Score="2" Text="Is this a duplicate? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/295/best-sites-to-share-photo-galleries-with-friends" CreationDate="2011-01-23T18:24:48.387" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9913" PostId="7508" Text="Can you clarify if this looking to have your own site, that may be hosted, or for sites for photo sharing?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T18:55:59.137" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9914" PostId="7508" Score="1" Text="@Reid not sure if this is more &quot;what do I install to make it simple to build websites to show my protfolio off / allow clients to view&quot;, rather than &quot;what hosted solution can I use to share a few photos with friends&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-23T18:56:49.293" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="9915" PostId="7508" Text="@Reid No, I don't think so. If I am not mistaken, kacalapy is looking for a template to produce his own website that he can host on his own domain name. Something like flickr would be inappropriate for that. I am also looking for something like this - I bought a domain name recently and have been looking for a template to easily build my own photo site." CreationDate="2011-01-23T18:58:02.100" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9916" PostId="7511" Score="1" Text="Smugmug has been the best site I've used, by far." CreationDate="2011-01-23T19:08:11.603" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="9917" PostId="7513" Text="Only because I think it might make a difference on the recommendation, are you photographing the model or the &quot;clothes&quot; off the model?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T19:22:08.977" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9918" PostId="7513" Text="They'll be modelled, we're looking at pinup and boudoir (tasteful) styles as the starting point." CreationDate="2011-01-23T19:25:14.030" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9919" PostId="7514" Text="Thanks, good points!" CreationDate="2011-01-23T19:27:32.080" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9920" PostId="7508" Text="OK, that makes sense. Thanks for the clarification." CreationDate="2011-01-23T19:28:28.457" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9921" PostId="7512" Text="@rm999 Is this the site you ended up using for your photography?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:04:46.383" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9922" PostId="7512" Text="No, I haven't setup a site yet, but I plan to in the near future. A couple of my friends use pixelpost and I like how their sites function/look. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:21:48.130" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9923" PostId="7520" Score="1" Text="This is argumentative. Are these kind of questions permitted?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:26:58.627" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9924" PostId="7520" Text="From the FAQ: &quot;What kind of questions should I not ask here?&#xA;&#xA;You should only ask practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face. Chatty, open-ended questions diminish the usefulness of our site and push other questions off the front page. To prevent your question from being flagged and possibly removed, avoid asking subjective questions...&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:33:13.983" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="9925" PostId="7520" Score="4" Text="I agree this is subjective, but on the other hand I think this is a good topic to talk about. Perhaps if we elaborate a bit on the &quot;why&quot; part in the answers, it might be generally useful enough?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:40:43.993" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9926" PostId="7520" Score="2" Text="Community wiki..." CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:45:04.363" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9927" PostId="7520" Score="2" Text="@kacalapy, if the question was 'which was best photographer...?', that could be argumentative." CreationDate="2011-01-23T20:46:33.240" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9928" PostId="7491" Text="@Pearsonartphoto I would also assume they meant a 60D... but there is a small chance they were looking at a used D60 and thinking they were getting a good deal on an upgrade, which wouldn't be the case." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:04:51.130" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="9929" PostId="7512" Text="Unless you have a really good reason to want to manage your own code and server there are a lot of great hosted photo services out there.  Especially at the pro level you should consider a hosted solution for its uptime, redundancy and customer support for your clients." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:07:14.223" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9930" PostId="7467" Text="Aperture-pupil example has one significant advantage. Partially closing your eyes does really sharpen the picture. If you're myopic you probably know this can sometime compensate poor focusing... http://knowyourmeme.com/photos/67229" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:07:21.163" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9931" PostId="7522" Text="Thanks for those links, they are exceptional." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:13:19.503" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9932" PostId="7467" Text="@che: haha - I like the meme :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:19:01.940" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9933" PostId="7520" Text="Is this not what a community wiki is for? I think it should be CW." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:20:14.590" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9934" PostId="7520" Text="@rfusca: just saw your comment... I obviously agree :-)." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:23:43.167" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9935" PostId="7522" Text="If you enjoy Crewdson check out Holly Andres (http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ldrzae5oKI1qdjdjeo1_400.jpg)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:26:08.157" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9936" PostId="7523" Text="Thanks Shizam! That one looks very nice. Is there a blurb anywhere on the SmugMug website that I can point printers to if they complain about permissions?" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:38:09.123" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9937" PostId="7523" Text="I asked around and its fine to have this printed, I'll see about updating the caption on that page to indicate this." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:45:22.367" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9938" PostId="7520" Text="I don't think this is subjective at all, what inspires you isn't open to debate, it's a statement only you can make." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:47:03.887" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9939" PostId="7524" Score="1" Text="The ability to do it to extremes depends on the camera, but this is my 8 stop under exposure sample: http://www.grumpyjohns.com/?p=182 to give you a sense of the art of the possible. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:49:22.387" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9940" PostId="7523" Text="+1 - Nice, good to see such an option." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:50:24.023" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9941" PostId="7526" Score="2" Text="+1 but I'll add a caveat that the more recent sensors are much more capable of this. See the link I posted above, the massive dynamic range of some of the newer cameras is really changing this landscape." CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:52:25.160" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9942" PostId="7523" Text="Yea, one of the nice 'features' of that image is it has 4 types of skin tones in it which is a boon for people-pictures :)" CreationDate="2011-01-23T21:57:07.560" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9943" PostId="7512" Text="Setting up your own site isn't too much work (most packages function out of the box) and allow more customiziability. As far as up-time, I don't necessarily mean hosting on your own computer - there are plenty of third party hosting solutions. You are right that there is a trade-off of some additional effort when setting up your own photoblog, but the added flexibility may be worth it to some. " CreationDate="2011-01-23T22:23:29.943" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="9944" PostId="7531" Text="Welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:00:02.673" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="9945" PostId="7512" Text="I'm honestly surprised nobody has created a platform that leverages both.  You'd have software that controls the layout as fine as you like that you run on your own server and it pulls all the content from a hosted solution using its API.  That way you get your OCD level of control plus all the redundancy, speed and CDN etc from a hosted service.... business opportunity *cough*" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:02:55.247" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="9946" PostId="7537" Text="Thanks.  Convenience issues more than cost rule out interchangeable lenses.  Yes, I've pitched the low light issue, but I hate to give up the zoom for outdoor vacation shots.  (Has mock tantrum - why can't I have both!)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T00:51:09.350" UserId="3416" />
  <row Id="9947" PostId="7537" Text="@Will - I can play devil's advocate and tell you that I find it inconvenient to miss and get crappy shots ;) But, since cost is less of an issue, you can consider to get both. I own more cameras than I will admit :) but I usually travel with 2 or 3 and not always the some ones. I choose the cameras (and lenses when taking a DSLR) depending on circumstances, subjects and convenience." CreationDate="2011-01-24T01:05:41.057" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="9948" PostId="2961" Score="1" Text="ISO has no affect on the amount of light hitting the sensor. ISO affects the resulting digital image brightness, whether it has been amplified before or after digital conversion. Shooting the same exposure with ISO 100 verse ISO 1600, however intrinsically means you have to have more light on the sensor, if that's what you're saying..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T01:18:53.480" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9949" PostId="7544" Score="1" Text="+1 - The question is highly subjective and speculative, but you did well in response and I tend to agree. Cell phones are trying to be jacks of all trades and thus are becoming masters of none." CreationDate="2011-01-24T01:19:09.487" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9950" PostId="7523" Text="I have used this image very successfully. I would also recommend that you look at SmugMug for the printing itself as they do a great job helping with the color management issues. They have two labs to pick from. I have saved lots of money and frustration through their help. " CreationDate="2011-01-24T01:24:16.720" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="9951" PostId="7544" Score="1" Text="Its a matter of time before P&amp;S are no more, see my answer below. Goodbye P&amp;S and hello super new gadgets!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T01:57:06.907" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9952" PostId="7545" Text="+1  The phone as a software platform is a very good point.  This is one area where camera manufacturers are going to have to pick up their game." CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:20:22.803" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="9953" PostId="7520" Text="I am just going by the FAQ where it explains that where &quot;every answer is equally valid&quot; it is not a good question to ask. Since no one can be wrong about who inspired them, It fits that criteria. " CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:51:27.083" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9954" PostId="7541" Score="12" Text="The real question is when do we stop calling these things phones?  They're computers that just happen to make phone calls as well..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:52:01.123" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9955" PostId="7500" Score="1" Text="@rfusca The thing that set Lightroom apart for me was its handling of RAW files - Lightroom has some of the best RAW processing capability (far superior to the RAW handling in Picasa), all built in.  Whereas Lightroom allows you to directly tweak the RAW settings of cataloged photos, to get the same RAW processing capability in Picasa requires you to export the photo, process the image in another tool and re-import again.  If you don't use RAWs then Lightroom probably isn't worth the price tag, but if you do then Lightroom is a smashing application." CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:54:15.123" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="9956" PostId="7500" Text="@Kragen - oh, i'm an avid LR user - i was just pointing out that Picasa is non destructive as well" CreationDate="2011-01-24T02:58:07.543" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9957" PostId="7526" Score="1" Text="Also, although you compensate for underexposed images in this way, it can be more difficult to compensate for over-exposed images in areas where are &quot;clipped&quot; (the sensor has reached saturation levels)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:02:03.913" UserId="1522" />
  <row Id="9958" PostId="7545" Text="Manufacturers like Motorola will be picking things up in the mobile arena, not canon or nikon. This should help put out better dslr models faster though, I hope." CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:04:09.903" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="9959" PostId="7544" Score="1" Text="@kacalapy - Time will tell, but at this point, cell phones are actually quite a ways behind the point and shoot market and it's not a market that is standing still. Yes, there will be some that go to the cell phone as the option, but I'm not convinced it's a large enough market to kill the other. The same kind of claims have been made for many a decades, especially around SLRs and, well, they're still here." CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:12:51.870" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9960" PostId="7545" Text="Micro 4/3rds have made similar claims over the dSLR, but I'm not seeing it. Unless there's a massive sea change in the technology, cell phones will be limited compared to dedicated hardware. Now, for a lot of people, that's enough, but not enough, I think, to kill the P&amp;S market as we know it." CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:15:30.837" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9961" PostId="7548" Score="2" Text="I don't buy it. Cell phones are not up to par in image quality to kill the P&amp;S market in any forseeable timeframe. The same sentiments were expressed with micro 4/3rds versus the APS-C dSLR, and with FF dSLR versus medium format. There's no question that a huge number of consumers will go cell phone, but is it enough to kill point and shoot? Not convinced. They're a long way off in my opinion." CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:21:26.993" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9962" PostId="7547" Score="1" Text="I'd upvote, but it looks like there are affiliate tags in the links. See http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/2716/amazon-affiliate-tags for why this isn't desired and why your answer may get squashed, which I think is unfortunate becuase it is otherwise a good one." CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:37:04.023" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9963" PostId="7538" Text="Another good comparison site is http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon_PowerShot_S95-vs-Panasonic_Lumix_DMC-ZS7" CreationDate="2011-01-24T04:03:12.573" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="9964" PostId="7541" Score="11" Text="I would like to point out also that this is really a discussion, unless somebody's got a crystal ball, there is no *right* answer." CreationDate="2011-01-24T04:44:16.267" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="9965" PostId="7541" Score="1" Text="@rfusca - I agree, the concept of phone is meaningless, it's a network with devices that interact." CreationDate="2011-01-24T04:44:35.673" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="9966" PostId="183" Text="Overexposing your picture effectively lowers your ISO.  It also has all the same effects as lowing the ISO: you also need to use a slower shutter speed (which may increase motion blur) or a wider aperture (which may not be available) for the same scene.&#xA;&#xA;Indeed, this is exactly how some cameras are able to offer an ISO lower than their sensor's base ISO: they set it to base ISO but overexpose.&#xA;&#xA;If your camera _can_ lower its ISO, you're better off just doing that instead of twiddling with exposure." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:40:30.877" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="9967" PostId="7497" Score="2" Text="Correct, it only cares about what should be a neutral tone. Black, shades of gray, or white are all fine because the RGB values are balanced, so, for the amount that they differ from neutral in the photo Lightroom will pull or push the RGB values back to a medium tone. As for having a gray card, when shooting my pro-rodeo work I'd find a banner or sign with no colors, defocus, and shoot a frame, and use that to set a white balance. It always worked well as long as I was sure it was a pure white, not an ultra-white, which has blue added to make it appear even whiter." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:50:27.303" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="9968" PostId="7498" Text="&quot;black (or too dark grey)&quot;. Correct. It can't be RGB 0x0x0, there has to be some light, but a dark gray will work." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:52:52.480" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="9969" PostId="7547" Score="1" Text="I've edited the post to remove the affiliate referral links since as John noted, it's otherwise a great answer." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:54:32.247" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="9970" PostId="7500" Text="Lightroom is far more than just a catalog though! I edit and export a complete photo shoot in Lightroom in an hour with a high res, Facebook and Flickr version of each exported photo." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:57:09.747" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9971" PostId="7506" Text="&quot;Lightroom will then compute how to make the selected neutral into white&quot; It won't try to make it into white, it makes it into a neutral with equal RGB values. If it was RGB 70x7fx7f it would pull toward 7fx7fx7f, not ffxffxff." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:57:13.647" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="9972" PostId="7516" Text="I too do that, minus the dashes. Having both Lightroom and Finder sort the folders by the # is good for visibility." CreationDate="2011-01-24T05:58:12.350" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="9973" PostId="7556" Text="I'm not sure whether this will be considered off-topic here (I don't think it is), but you might also try http://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-01-24T06:41:29.037" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="9974" PostId="7556" Score="4" Text="I thought about that, but I thought I'd better better results here.  Especially since photographers are usually a little more picky about their prints, especially since there hasn't been a whole lot of print talk on graphicdesign.stackexchange.com yet.  " CreationDate="2011-01-24T06:46:52.083" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="9975" PostId="5432" Score="1" Text="Putting an image in the public domain is utterly different to licensing it under any license, open or not.  Public domain is not a license; it is akin to disowning the image - you are transferring ownership of it to &quot;nobody&quot;.  With no actual owner, anyone is free to do whatever they like with it.  It's not like an open source or creative commons license where you need to respect the author's wishes or generosity or the spirit of sharing.  It's as free - and free to exploit for your own gains - as sunlight.  And like sunlight, if you use it to create an artwork, that artwork is yours." CreationDate="2011-01-24T06:47:10.090" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="9976" PostId="7258" Text="Cigarette smoke - I hadn't thought of that!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T07:06:08.443" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="9977" PostId="7535" Score="5" Text="I don't think it's possible to answer this question without lots of speculative crystal-ball gazing into what 'the camera companies' are or are not thinking/planning/doing. Just sayin'..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T07:30:45.670" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9978" PostId="7514" Score="2" Text="Didn't feel like this was worth a 'full answer,' but it is possible to make white and black seamless paper last longer... A *lot* longer in fact... For about $20 you can buy white or black shower stall material (get the non-textured kind) and then simply lay it down over the paper 'tail' on the floor and have people stand on that. No more paper rips. Paper lasts just about forever. The last time I cut a section out of my white roll was because a kid punched a hole in it... Up 'till that point I'd been using the same 15 feet of it for more than a year, simply rolling it back up after each use." CreationDate="2011-01-24T07:37:55.650" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="9979" PostId="1716" Text="Just one niggling little thing: the &quot;one arc minute&quot; acuity represents 20/20, 6/6, or &quot;normal&quot; vision, which is really not all that good. It may cover the eightieth percentile (and probably the ninetieth), but it won't quite satisfy those who are naturally gifted (or those, like myself, who've insisted on having their corrective lenses provide them with the best possible vision, rather than merely reaching the Harrison Bergeron handicap level). Figure forty-five arc seconds as a target for wows from everyone -- taking into account the tonality limits you've mentioned above. " CreationDate="2011-01-24T07:48:15.657" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="9980" PostId="7520" Text="@kacalapy see also http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/ and, after all, this is *kind of* a same question as the &quot;Books/resources on the artistic side of photograpy?&quot; http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4804/1913 but the &quot;books&quot; is replaced with &quot;people&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-24T08:22:48.930" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="9981" PostId="7505" Text="Great stuff - thanks for this answer. Sounds like I can point the camera at a person, let it autofocus and then tune in the focus to get the eyes really sharp!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T09:13:49.753" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="9982" PostId="7387" Text="And this is the other question : http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1888/what-features-should-i-look-for-in-a-dslr-to-shoot-live-bands" CreationDate="2011-01-24T09:17:04.910" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="9983" PostId="7467" Text="I hadn't thought of the eye analogy, but no that you mention it, I can see that it might well be helpful for some people.  Many thanks, @Tom.  " CreationDate="2011-01-24T09:56:13.567" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="9984" PostId="7500" Text="@rfusca: My experience is that Picasa tagging and titling destroys Nikon Makernotes data in JPEG EXIFs. Other sorts of changes such as cropping don't affect the original file but these do." CreationDate="2011-01-24T09:57:03.533" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="9985" PostId="7522" Text="Gregory Crewdson has always fascinated me by the way his photos look like movie scenes. When I saw some pictures of his setups, I found out that is because he uses as much light as whole film crew. (Nothing against that, this is just a note. His &quot;Woman in flowers&quot; never ceases to amaze me.)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T10:09:09.070" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="9987" PostId="7498" Text="Yes, I agree that clicking on something that is (almost) black won't help. I was trying to keep it simple but went a bit too far. I will edit my answer." CreationDate="2011-01-24T10:35:36.383" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="9988" PostId="7562" Text="Ah of course, ... Thank you for answering and enlightening me :)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T11:10:35.817" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="9989" PostId="7566" Text="Yes, very impressive" CreationDate="2011-01-24T13:33:07.613" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9990" PostId="7539" Score="1" Text="I love your travel photography" CreationDate="2011-01-24T13:41:53.190" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9991" PostId="7245" Text="I agree about getting a decent book, such as Scott Kelby's. I'd also suggest having a look at the shows available on Adobe TV: http://tv.adobe.com/product/lightroom/" CreationDate="2011-01-24T13:49:06.253" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="9992" PostId="7532" Text="I really like Joao Canziani's work" CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:03:57.820" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="9993" PostId="2948" Text="@Rowland what is the right exposure though? The one that requires no correction in post? If I overexpose but don't clip the highlights and then apply negative exposure compensation, this can help reduce noise. If this yields a *better* looking image how on earth can the exposure be &quot;wrong&quot;? " CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:04:19.800" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="9994" PostId="7545" Text="Which claims does micro 4/3rds have? They're not a device people are already carrying nor are they general-purpose software platforms. The mirrorless category really can't compete with dSLRs until the electronic viewfinders are on par with or exceed optics (which will happen, but maybe not in five years). I don't think camera phones are going to replace _cameras in general_; there's still plenty of room for larger devices. And the super-zoom P&amp;S still has some breathing room, but the general I-just-want-a-camera-to-put-in-my-pocket/purse mass market just won't be there." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:16:38.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9995" PostId="7545" Text="It's worth adding that the A200 I reference received very good reviews. " CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:19:23.333" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="9996" PostId="7145" Text="+1 for the link to the corrections. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:20:43.563" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9997" PostId="7159" Text="touché :-). +1 for linking to photos from blind photographers. However, I don't like using the lcd on the back at all... you definitely get less out of the camera/lenses. (e.g. - focusing is slower IMO)." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:23:20.503" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="9998" PostId="7570" Text="Well, this is great even better than my usb suggestion, because of beeing wireless" CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:35:20.127" UserId="3430" />
  <row Id="9999" PostId="2948" Text="@Matt depends what sort of subject you're shooting really, doesn't it? - a wine glass in front of a black background is going to have plenty more spare dynamic range to clip the detail in the shadows by applying negative exposure compensation; However, you're unlikely to get that amount of spare dynamic range shooting a landscape on a sunny day..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:41:00.857" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10000" PostId="1573" Score="2" Text="The scoring system is a little off, though. Particularly, many insignificant differences are presented as dramatic, while other actually important differences aren't even covered." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:47:04.047" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10001" PostId="1217" Text="I am a fan of VirtualBox, works well for me." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:57:00.677" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10002" PostId="7563" Text="Like you I have tried them all and now I am also using Shotwell." CreationDate="2011-01-24T14:59:39.333" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10003" PostId="1023" Score="2" Text="Drawbacks of UFRaw include lack of distortion correction, rotation, CA correction, vignetting correction, or sharpening.  You'd have to send your image to the GIMP to do that. Also, the color management is a bit hard to get right, and I find the histogram difficult to interpret but that's just me.  Its highlight compression is not as good as RawTherapee's and doesn't seem to take any effect unless you're boosting EV." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:03:24.290" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10004" PostId="478" Text="Debian squeeze includes it, which means Ubuntu probably does (or will)." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:04:18.923" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10005" PostId="7544" Text="Can someone hit fast forward so we can know now... and enjoy the cool new toys sooner." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:18:17.197" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="10006" PostId="2948" Text="@Rowland I'm not sure I fully understand your comment, but yes the type of scene will strongly influence your exposure decisions, my point was just that I don't believe that exposing-so-you-don't-have-to-shift-in-post is *necessarily* the best choice. I agree that doing things right first time is preferable, however when it comes to exposure I don't think there is a &quot;right&quot;. There are settings that preserve highlight detail settings to reduce noise etc. being able to adjust exposure in post is a useful tool, not just something to correct &quot;mistakes&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:25:28.593" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10007" PostId="7574" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the site and good luck with that search.  I'm not aware of any such services and I've been writing about and covering the online photo sharing/hosting world for quite a while." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:40:43.777" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10008" PostId="7516" Text="Doing this does not mean you can't use Lightroom.  I do both. " CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:43:06.100" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10009" PostId="7506" Text="@Greg - Good catch! Corrected. That's what I actually meant." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:51:32.347" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10010" PostId="7516" Text="@AJ Finch - I realize that, but I don't use Lightroom, I use Bridge. Though jrista has been selling me on the Lightroom option to complement." CreationDate="2011-01-24T15:54:15.370" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10011" PostId="7554" Score="1" Text="Not sure if it's possible, I found a Flickr thread that doesn't sound too promising: http://www.flickr.com/groups/aperture_users/discuss/72157625375107442/" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:05:30.680" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10012" PostId="1584" Text="I wish I could upvote this more than once. If camera labs has a review it is usually great. I really enjoy watching the video reviews as well. I was looking for info about nikon d7000 vs canon 7d vs. canon 60d and there was info on that site that none of the other sites talked about. (For example, the fact that the nikon d7000 boasts 6 frames per second but because of the buffer speed can only shoot that fast for a few seconds.) Other sites just quoted what was on the label, but I feel like they really put it to the test." CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:12:46.900" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10013" PostId="7539" Text="@labnut - Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:13:45.620" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10014" PostId="7576" Text="On Eye-Fi supporting CF cards, I think it would be best to ask them. On the alternatives, I don't suppose you tried using an Eye-Fi in a SD-to-CF adapter? No other options come to mind." CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:17:19.813" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10015" PostId="7578" Text="The thing is, I want to upload the whole bunch of photos taken to the web even if they are not perfect. So no quality checking filtering is important. People want to buy my photos but I have no way of selling them :(" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:19:47.890" UserId="2030" />
  <row Id="10016" PostId="7574" Text="Thanks for the reply." CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:20:24.177" UserId="2030" />
  <row Id="10017" PostId="7578" Score="4" Text="In that case I think you're asking rather a lot; an agency such as Alamy has a reputation to maintain that all its photos are flawless. They make no aesthetic judgments on submitted photographs, just technical perfection. Why don't you want to spend a few minutes to remove blemishes if it will increase your chances of a sale? In what way are your photos 'not perfect'?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:22:10.557" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="10018" PostId="7576" Text="@Itai - I dod not try an adapter, and from what I have read they are limited in their usability. I hope maybe one of the forum member has actual experience with using such device in his CF only camera, so we can all learn from a 1st hand experience." CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:24:34.267" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10019" PostId="7576" Text="My understanding is that the adapters work best when shooting JPEG, that trying to shoot raw usually results in failure." CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:28:59.007" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10020" PostId="7557" Text="Oooh, gphoto2 looks interesting indeed!  macports is installing it now... I'll check it out, and report back.  I'd still ideally like to be able to do this within Aperture (and so, not &quot;accepting&quot; this answer, at least not yet -- but it definitely gets an up-vote), but I might very well be able to work with this.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:39:29.933" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10021" PostId="7557" Text="Hmm.  Something is preventing either of these from working, it seems.  When I connect my camera, it flashes &quot;busy&quot;, whether or not Aperture is running.  If I launch aperture and do a &quot;start session&quot;, all works fine as before, and gphoto2 --auto-detect sees my camera, but if I try to capture an image, it reports &quot;Could not claim the USB device&quot;... which is in the faq -- http://www.gphoto.org/doc/manual/FAQ.html#FAQ-could-not-claim-USB -- but no real mac-specific info, and I'm not sure what's using the port.  I suspected Finder (Mass Storage...), but I don't see the camera there. :-/  Any hints?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:12:14.070" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10022" PostId="1573" Text="Their scoring system is questionable. In effect you will be adopting their values and goals which are not likely to be the same as yours." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:12:58.407" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10023" PostId="7557" Text="oh, and Automator sees my camera, and claims its status is &quot;Ready&quot;, but if I run the workflow, it just blocks until the camera turns itself off, and then it says it &quot;completed&quot;.  Sigh.  Oh, and if I re-launch aperture (or have it launched when I plug in or turn on the camera), it automatically sets up the &quot;Import&quot; dialog, even though I have &quot;When a camera is connected&quot; set to &quot;No application&quot; (it doesn't launch Aperture, but when Aperture is running, it launches the import mode)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:13:31.947" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10024" PostId="7580" Text="@ahockley - yes, I have found that page on their website. I was wondering if there is a particular reason **why** they do not support CF." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:27:18.973" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10025" PostId="7579" Score="1" Text="A quick comment - &quot;very thin focus planes&quot; is called shallow Depth of Field. Focus plane, by it &quot;planar&quot; nature, has no thickness. There is only one plane in space whose image is in max focus on the sensor/film." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:31:11.637" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10026" PostId="7554" Text="@ahockley: bummer... thanks.  Based on that, I've submitted feedback to Apple... hopefully they'll fix this for the next point release." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:38:53.300" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10027" PostId="7582" Text="@chills42 - &quot;the right amount&quot; can be **0** as well. Take a look at the link I provided in my answer for some spectacular examples of totally frozen dance images." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:40:52.487" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10028" PostId="7580" Text="If you want the true reason from the company, you'll probably get a more accurate answer by asking the company than by asking here." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:48:41.730" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10029" PostId="7545" Text="The &quot;software platform&quot; argument is an interesting one, and certainly holds some merit.  However, I see two things to argue that dedicated point&amp;shoot cameras may persist, even so: (1) point-and-shoot cameras *are* doing at least some post-processing stuff -- As just one example: automatic HDR and &quot;slide panoramas&quot; in the Casio EX-ZR100: http://exilim.casio.com/products_exzr100.shtml; (2) I think some people will always prefer to do post-processing on a bigger screen than could ever fit in these devices (e.g. a 20&quot; or bigger display), and will thus prefer better optics over built-in software." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:49:01.517" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10030" PostId="3411" Text="My only issue with Bibble Lite is that it doesn't support multi-core when batch processing. But, the Pro Version is cheaper than Lightroom and the license allows for a Windows and a Linux install with a single purchanse." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:52:06.203" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="10031" PostId="1716" Text="@Stan: Very true, 1.0 arcminute is &quot;standard&quot; or &quot;normal&quot; visual acuity. The diffraction-limited acuity of human vision is about 0.4 arcminute (20/8 vision), 20/10 vision would be  somewhere around 0.7 arcminute or so. At 0.7 arcminute, P is 0.00020, and at maximum acuity, P is 0.00012. At 20/8 vision, you would have a bit more than double acuity, at 20/10 vision you have about 30% more acuity. Instead of a maximum of 500ppi, you have a maximum of about 650ppi. I'll update the article to reflect." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:54:02.270" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10032" PostId="7582" Score="1" Text="I totally agree, but you have to keep in mind that there are *a lot* of situations where freezing the action would be the wrong move... so... &quot;the right amount&quot; is the only way to describe it.  Shutter time is the key factor." CreationDate="2011-01-24T17:57:38.410" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10033" PostId="7576" Text="Edited to make the question answerable without having to speculate about EyeFi's business model." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:02:05.390" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10034" PostId="7580" Score="1" Text="How would anyone here on photo.se.com know the answer to 'why'?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:02:59.180" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10035" PostId="7583" Text="Calmes' images are _amazing_ to me." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:04:13.160" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="10036" PostId="7545" Score="2" Text="@lindes: again, I don't think *cameras* are going away, just mass-market point-and-shoots. People who want do do post processing *at all* are already at the edge of that. Right now, being at the edge is okay, because you benefit from the economy-of-scale, but the mass market moves on, P&amp;S cameras will be split into very-cheap-crappier-than-phone-cam models (which already exist) and more expensive enthusiast and super-zoom models. These, in turn, will get squeezed by cheap dslrs and mirrorless cameras, making them very niche indeed." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:05:20.087" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10037" PostId="7525" Text="heh, the 10:1 bet is enticing...  but what if the amateurs turn pro?  (e.g. if National Geographic comes knocking on your inspiration's door?)  ;)  (I'm about to post some amateurs-gone-at-least-semi-pro, so I'm guessing I can't claim the bet, but they were surely &quot;just&quot; amateurs (i.e. not making their art for money) when I started following some of them.)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:08:32.483" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10038" PostId="7580" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - the intent is to ask about the technical reason, not their business model/decision. Anyway, I accept your edit." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:11:15.680" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10039" PostId="7582" Text="@chills42 - agreed. No argument on *that*." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:12:25.790" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10040" PostId="7580" Text="Fair enough. You might want to edit the question to that goal, then... Maybe this: &quot;From a technical standpoint are there any reasons that EyeFi can't support CF cards? Are there any alternatives that do?&quot; That will clarify the question and avoid speculative answers..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:14:33.713" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10041" PostId="7522" Text="I think it would be best if we had one photographer per answer.  Could you split this into two answers?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:15:51.293" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10042" PostId="7521" Text="It's particularly interesting that she seems (at least according to your first link) never to have shown her images to anyone -- with many many rolls left un-developed at her death, even, so not even herself in some cases!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:18:20.793" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10043" PostId="7528" Score="1" Text="Could you split these out into separate answers, and talk a little about what inspires you from each one?  (I actually may create an answer for Rebekka myself, so feel free to instead comment on/edit that one, instead, once it's up.)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:21:30.477" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10044" PostId="7580" Score="1" Text="@yasp more likely is the commercial viability -- SD is defacto for consumer cameras and entry levle DSLRs which gives a wide possible audience. CF is generally used by higher level cameras and most of those support tethered shooting which would eat in at the people *wanting* the product." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:22:44.947" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10045" PostId="6602" Text="Fantastic answer. It wasn't clear to me that the chiaroscuro is an artifact of the single light and the face shape - I was looking at the setup expecting to see a light that generated the triangle." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:25:35.600" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="10046" PostId="7584" Text="At that level of commission, I'm guessing they don't market your work..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:28:53.973" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10047" PostId="6933" Text="How does this lens compare to the Sigma 105mm macro lens?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:32:41.827" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="10048" PostId="7584" Text="From the sound of it MMAMail already has demand from a target audience. Maybe he doesn't need marketing? We should ask him to clarify if this is important. " CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:33:52.937" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="10049" PostId="7584" Score="1" Text="Instaproofs target market is professional photographers who want to digitally proof their pictures to clients, so... No... They don't market your work. That'd be the professional photographers job. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:40:04.613" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10050" PostId="7528" Text="I added an explanation of why I find them inspiring, but I prefer to leave this as one single answer!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:43:24.527" UserId="3231" />
  <row Id="10051" PostId="6602" Text="The chiaroscuro is actually created by the nose and the upper ridge of the eye socket blocking the light source from fully falling on the shadowed side of the face..." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:43:48.587" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10052" PostId="7583" Score="1" Text="Great images, but those are all clearly done in the studio, with flashes to freeze the motion!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:43:51.787" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10053" PostId="7587" Score="1" Text="Matt, those pictures are great! And thanks for the pointer about the music, which really is the best hint of finding the &quot;right time&quot;. Most of my photography is argentine tango, and, being a dancer myself I find it very natural to anticipate the right timing." CreationDate="2011-01-24T18:52:37.263" UserId="3150" />
  <row Id="10058" PostId="7583" Text="@Matt Grum - that's almost right, if you look at his photo sets, you'll see that some are taken on locations other than studio. Anyway, the OP asked for inspiration from &quot;photographers who also specialize in dance photography&quot;, so there it goes." CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:10:13.540" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10059" PostId="7562" Score="2" Text="No problem, it's a very common misconception especially as focal length is always used to refer to lenses and FOV is rarely stated. It's very difficult to talk about different lenses without using focal length, so I don't think it's too much of a problem, as long as it's clear what format you're talking about." CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:11:20.783" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10060" PostId="7587" Text="@Matt did you get those images with a single click or in burst mode? and what mode did you use?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:11:21.667" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="10061" PostId="7583" Text="@ysap It's a great link, and very relevant, I just think it's worth mentioning that flash was used (to be honest I didn't look through the entire set so didn't see any non studio ones)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:13:16.570" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10062" PostId="7385" Text="Thx. I would have sooooooo many question to anyone on the LR team :) The Flickr Publish service drives me nuts." CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:17:20.667" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="10063" PostId="7587" Text="@kacalpy It was probably a mix, I would have had the camera in continuous high speed mode in case, but if you're timing shots it's easier to concentrating on taking a single shot, whereas if there's all sorts of stuff going on shooting a sequence is usually more effective." CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:18:19.963" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10064" PostId="7587" Score="2" Text="Nice examples.  I just want to point out that photographing social dances is *much* more difficult and involved than photographing a dance presented on stage.  Usually you cannot get below the level of the dancers; there is often no room to back off and capture a scene (because dancers can fill the hall); lighting can be terrible.  A good choice is to get *above* the dancers, if only a little bit (such as a short ladder): this enables you to select individual dancers or groups and isolate them in a frame." CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:38:14.833" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10065" PostId="7587" Text="@Matt Grum - great shots!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T19:38:45.483" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10066" PostId="1700" Score="1" Text="You may look like a tool, but it's better than spending $20 on a Gary Fong Puffer ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T20:19:54.090" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="10067" PostId="7547" Text="+1 great answers, thank you." CreationDate="2011-01-24T20:23:22.400" UserId="3399" />
  <row Id="10068" PostId="7587" Text="@matt Good tips, Thanks. I had a few questions in the past that kind of touched on this topic." CreationDate="2011-01-24T20:24:13.897" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="10070" PostId="7593" Text="I guess features like this explain why these things come with a 200 page manual. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T20:34:00.893" UserId="3442" />
  <row Id="10071" PostId="7547" Text="Now I can upvote. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T20:36:35.947" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10072" PostId="7593" Text="It gets better - there are menu settings that you can use to change the way some of the buttons work, so it's actually possible for you to make your own camera harder for you to use.  ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T20:37:09.790" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="10073" PostId="23" Score="4" Text="I'm really happy that we have an `ah-ha` tag. We should have more questions that need it." CreationDate="2011-01-24T21:52:39.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10074" PostId="7561" Score="1" Text="Matt Grum's answer is excellent as usual. I wanted to call out a key point, though: the value saved in the EXIF data *is* the real focal length. (This confusion is one reason it's much better to say &quot;crop factor&quot; than &quot;focal length multiplier&quot;.)" CreationDate="2011-01-24T21:59:02.903" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10075" PostId="1692" Text="Under the custom settings in the menu, on several of the models, you can change it from completely auto, partial auto, and 1/60-1/250 for Av mode.  This will get it to meter including the flash." CreationDate="2011-01-24T22:27:31.620" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="10076" PostId="7601" Text="FWIW, there's general advice on filters here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/383/what-are-the-must-have-filters-for-a-new-photographer. I'm looking for advice that still applies at these extreme focal lengths." CreationDate="2011-01-24T22:35:08.880" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10077" PostId="7604" Text="&quot;what I actually wind up using&quot; is exactly what I was hoping for; thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-24T23:09:04.783" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10078" PostId="87" Score="7" Text="Be aware that's probably implemented by overexposing at ISO 100 and then dividing by 2 in software, so you lose some IQ." CreationDate="2011-01-24T23:38:45.697" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10079" PostId="7545" Text="@mattdm: Perhaps, but I carry my G9 around with me all the time, as an in-between for my phone camera (which I use for some stuff) and my SLR(s) (which I only bring with me when I expect specifically to be shooting), and use it for those images that the phone cam doesn't do a good job of.  It also has a hot-shoe, which I don't expect to see on a phone... though perhaps bluetooth would someday be able to trigger a pocketwizard or something?" CreationDate="2011-01-24T23:44:12.650" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10080" PostId="7506" Text="It's very powerful and pretty smart. I had occasions when I fired well before my strobes were ready, so I was a couple stops below normal exposure and had ambient light from mercury-vapor floods tint the image. A single click on what I knew was a neutral tone poster or shirt kicked the white balance back to where it belonged. With some careful examination a lot of images turn up having usable neutrals and can be saved." CreationDate="2011-01-24T23:45:10.590" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10081" PostId="1716" Text="absolutely stellar answer, my friend. Very illuminating without resorting to spoon-feeding. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:08:36.530" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="10082" PostId="7545" Text="@lindes: probably your SLR is too big. :) But seriously, I don't think having image quality approaching the G9 is an unreasonable expectation for five years from now. The lenses will have a little more compromise, but it'll be in the ballpark. And from the other side, there will be micro 4/3rds (and similar) in the ballpark size, price, and weight as the G9, but with all the advantages of a large sensor and interchangeable lenses." CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:24:16.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10083" PostId="87" Score="1" Text="Specifically, all you lose is one stop of dynamic range at the top end (bright highlights).  Not too much of a problem in most situations unless you're really depending on the highest dynamic range that low ISOs can bring." CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:26:06.543" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10084" PostId="7545" Text="Now, in all of this, I'm not considering large-sensor fixed-lens cameras like the Fujifilm X100 or the Leica X1. Those are, as awesome as they look to be, niche products. It's _possible_ that things like the G9's successors will stay around as niche products, but I think as the mass market falls away, there just won't be the sales to justify them." CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:26:52.740" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10085" PostId="1698" Text="As you alluded to, most cameras that can shoot above 1600ISO do the same in-camera." CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:28:52.793" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10086" PostId="7018" Text="@Matt: There is a timing issue involved here... ;P Its not a big deal to wait 8-10 months. It would be a huge deal to wait 4 years. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:32:03.260" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10087" PostId="1716" Text="@Kevin: Thank you very much. :) Let me know if the other answers I've provided below are also helpful." CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:32:41.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10088" PostId="1913" Text="I'd add one (potential) fly to the ointment: if you are one of the rare few who might or currently print digital negatives then you might want to look at Epson's simply because that's the brand used by most all who print digital negs. I'm not sure that there is a really good technical reason at the root of this, but it has evolved to the tools and lore having a a definite Epson bent in this tiny niche." CreationDate="2011-01-25T00:36:15.897" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="10089" PostId="7608" Text="I'm pretty sure I need to add the lazy question to any question of mine ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:08:49.097" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10090" PostId="7597" Text="Actually the 600mm f/4.0 is 168mm in diameter at the end of the barrel... http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/Canon-EF-600mm-f-4.0-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx" CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:11:18.347" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10091" PostId="7519" Score="1" Text="I was on SmugMug and there is a lot that is truly excellent about it... Until I wanted to customize it (not 'light' customization, I mean *really* customize it). The way that SmugMug gives users to customize is a royal PITA, and I found it was far easier for me to go elsewhere in order to accomplish what I needed. Now for the majority of users- those who aren't running a business and need strong branding and customization- SmugMug is awesome, and is probably all you'll ever need..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:22:33.050" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10092" PostId="7519" Score="1" Text="On the other hand, if you're not someone who can 'leave well enough alone' and simply use the themes they provide... You may be very frustrated." CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:23:29.133" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10093" PostId="569" Text="@jrista - It is  the first time I read about this as well. However, I speculate that the addition of the filter does not really **seal** anything that wasn't sealed before. It is merely protecting the front lens element from the elements, this completing the weather protection suite." CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:24:40.177" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10094" PostId="7604" Score="2" Text="Quite true. I arrived to the same conclusions too." CreationDate="2011-01-25T01:30:17.830" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10096" PostId="7593" Text="This one still confuses me to this day, I'm sure there HAS to be a good reason for it somewhere, but I sure don't understand it..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T03:22:25.607" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10097" PostId="7619" Score="1" Text="+1 - Nice graph and you were careful to note &quot;average&quot; since both the Pentax K-5 and Nikon D7000, as APS-C cameras, currently exceed the dynamic range of FF and medium format cameras at ISO 100. I expect that to change in the months ahead, as the technology catches up on the larger sensors, but it's pretty exciting for APS-C to have done so much there and that's great for those of us that shoot. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T03:44:35.030" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10098" PostId="7619" Score="1" Text="+1 - Ditto on the nice graph. ;) I think it should also be noted that highlight DR also improves with larger sensor well size, since many more levels are dedicated to highlights and mid-tones than shades. I would shift the &quot;Average Full Frame top end up a bit. As for the notations on black &amp; white points, technically, black is always 0 and white is always the maximum (255 @ 8bit, 4095 @ 12bit, 16383 @ 14bit.) The part that changes is the fineness of the range between those two. A 14bit sensor has a finer range of distinct tones (16384 levels) than a 12bit sensor (4096 levels). " CreationDate="2011-01-25T04:30:42.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10099" PostId="7618" Text="+1 for mentioning/explaining the DR of the scene! " CreationDate="2011-01-25T04:31:27.677" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10100" PostId="7619" Text="Thanks jrista. I may add the sensor accuracy info too (something I forgot). I was mainly talking about the range of light intensity a camera can bracket for. Shadows which would be black in a point and shoot JPEG may still be salvagable to a degree of accuracy in a DSLR sensor raw capture. Even in a point and shoot raw capture, the noise may be too great to even bother." CreationDate="2011-01-25T04:43:33.273" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10101" PostId="7619" Score="1" Text="You should also throw in the dynamic range of a standard monitor and print.  In order to actually use higher dynamic ranges, some form of tonemapping must occur." CreationDate="2011-01-25T04:43:45.767" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="10102" PostId="7619" Text="@Nick: I guess there is variation in the maximum levels of light measurable by better sensors. I think black point is pretty fixed...zero is zero, regardless of the sensor. A P&amp;S might not be able to capture as many fine levels in the shades as a FF DSLR, but that would largely be due to higher noise, which is going to push the minimum non-zero values into the available DR much higher than in a DSLR. White point on the other hand is probably truly dynamic between sensors. I can imagine a FF sensor having a much higher tolerance for highlight tones than a P&amp;S." CreationDate="2011-01-25T05:05:12.503" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10103" PostId="7163" Text="I don't know for sure that this is correct, but it seems reasonable so far... accepting, at least for now." CreationDate="2011-01-25T06:58:22.613" UserId="2452" />
  <row Id="10104" PostId="7626" Score="1" Text="Wow.  Who knew?  (Not me, obviously).  I love learning about odd stuff like this.  Thanks for the question, @lindes :)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T08:41:32.360" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10105" PostId="7628" Text="@Jay, What an excellent answer.  Seriously, one of the best - you've answered the question and given really useful and interesting information.  Much appreciated.  Thank you.  Now I'm off to find a filter and try to see these rings! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T08:43:30.940" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10106" PostId="7626" Score="1" Text="Sure thing, @AJ Finch.  :)  Yeah, having been active on this site for the last ~2 months, I figured this was the perfect place to ask, and get some information.  :)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T08:53:16.133" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10107" PostId="7628" Text="Ah-hah!  Wrong term explains it!  And now that you give me the right term, I easily find this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton's_rings :)  -- meanwhile, though, you've done an excellent job of explaining it for my purposes!  Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T08:57:06.583" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10108" PostId="7629" Score="2" Text="Ziv, would you mind adding a quick note summarising this discussion, just in case this link to your forums breaks in the future? " CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:15:02.417" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="10109" PostId="7629" Score="1" Text="@Ziv - thanks for your input. So I saw there the link to Amazon. One question still - regarding the working mode with the Eye-Fi device, is it for on-the-fly file transfer or can it wirelessly transfer files after the session is over? That is, do I need to have my computer around while shooting?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:15:51.853" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10110" PostId="7629" Score="2" Text="@Ziv - while we're at it, can you comment on why Eye-Fi does not support CF?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:17:02.930" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10111" PostId="7593" Score="6" Text="I have always thought that that's to prevent you from accidentally moving the wheel, which I've done so myself a couple of times." CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:18:25.060" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10112" PostId="7628" Score="1" Text="In smaller-format darkroom work, it's usually related to unsharp masking (the real kind, not the Photoshop kind) or contrast reduction using low-density fogged negs. Negative carriers for 35mm and 120 formats smaller than 6x9 tend to be glassless (the film is pretty much self-supporting at smaller sizes, and glass carriers are just another dusting nuisance), but then we photographers insist on re-introducing the problem by sandwiching negatives for special effects. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:33:22.667" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10113" PostId="7628" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - Thanks for the reply. Now, the missing info part is, what **is** a AN glass? My guess is that it is a treated glass, where its surface, rather than being smooth now contains peaks and bumps so as to break the curvature of the surface and eliminate the (global) ring effect. However, I can see how it can still cause local rings, but their size is now controllable through the roughness of the surface. Any other ideas?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:41:28.773" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10114" PostId="7631" Score="5" Text="Best explanation of how tonemapping works I've read." CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:41:31.367" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="10115" PostId="7631" Score="1" Text="Someone needs a sensor clean :(  Good example of bad tone mapping, by the way - I've always wondered why people destroy an image's dynamic range like that :)  The resulting image could be termed &quot;Low Dynamic Range&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-25T09:45:04.137" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10116" PostId="7631" Score="1" Text="Thanks, Matt.  First time I've heard it laid out so nicely.  I promise to only use this knowledge for good!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T10:56:10.930" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10117" PostId="7594" Score="1" Text="Let's take this from &quot;pretty sure&quot; to a simple &quot;they will&quot;. And you get the side benefit of being able to sell coffee-table books of your collections on the same site with the same conditions: you create and upload, and if it sells, it sells and only if it sells does Lulu take a cut. Oh, and *they* worry about the payment gateway, not you." CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:02:05.740" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10118" PostId="7631" Score="2" Text="@thomasrutter Nothing the clone tool can't handle! But yes its time for a clean, been shooting a lot of low light stuff so big aperture, this is the first time I've stopped down past f/5.6 for a while. I was just commenting on another thread how I change lenses whenever I want to and don't lay awake at night worrying about dust, this at least proves I practice what I preach! " CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:12:11.890" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10119" PostId="7544" Text="+1 The problem is that my phone is already my MP3 player, calendar, email, text machine and... erm.. phone. The biggest problem with this is using it for many of these functions at once and battery life!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:20:05.760" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="10120" PostId="3742" Score="1" Text="More detail here: http://jesserosten.com/2010/wireless-tethering-to-ipad" CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:20:10.353" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10121" PostId="7631" Score="2" Text="I'd like to add than in my opinion, you can many times get more natural looking results my doing the tone mapping manually, as in this example: http://i.imgur.com/LHyEp.jpg (Or doing it in camera using a reflector or flash.)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:23:40.137" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10122" PostId="6775" Text="+1 for the comprehensive answer." CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:27:13.830" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="10123" PostId="7614" Text="I can't say I really understand all of this, but that would mean that Canon makes unusual lenses, since all fixed zooms I have (17-40 f/4, 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8 IS) appear to have parts in front of the aperture moving with zoom." CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:46:04.703" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10124" PostId="3384" Score="2" Text="What is this issue everyone appers to have with legal advice over the Internet? Is it any less meaningful that photographic, computer-related or any other kind of advice?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T11:50:09.630" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10125" PostId="7597" Score="1" Text="@Nick the front element has to be as big as the apparent aperture, I meant the part where the aperture blades are is narrower than 150mm. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:08:47.537" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10126" PostId="7639" Score="1" Text="Oh, and by the way: The chip in the adapter _is_ the workaround hack for this." CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:19:37.663" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10127" PostId="7631" Score="2" Text="@che I totally agree, in the few occasions I've needed to extend the dynamic range I've done it by hand (see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3394/hdr-processing-on-moving-subjects/3397#3397) I could do with updating the answer by discussing different tonemapping methods. I also have a version of that same image which I did with flash! " CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:23:41.087" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10128" PostId="7639" Text="@Staale S (comment) though not as *DIY* as I hoped for. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:24:12.067" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="10129" PostId="7639" Text="Maybe I should file a feature-request for Canon firmware to add an option &quot;Always assume a lens is attached when the AF is activated&quot; e.g. to the C.Fn menu." CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:26:36.057" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="10130" PostId="7639" Score="1" Text="Ay. They will probably add that one after they give us a mirror lock-up button. Which we have been waiting for for a decade or so:)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:36:05.293" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10131" PostId="7630" Score="1" Text="LOL, a question that creates a question that creates a question. Funny how that works out sometimes..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T12:58:31.203" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10132" PostId="7580" Text="@Rowland Shaw - You can argue that this is actually in favor of designing a CD Eye-Fi. Targeted at the pro/semipro market, it can be a premium product with spiced up price and margins. Hopefully @Ziv will give us a hint on that." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:04:05.267" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10133" PostId="7606" Text="@Reid - see my comment to Rowland Shaw at ahockley's answer." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:05:34.750" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10134" PostId="7580" Text="@yasp Of course, that would also compete with the Wireless File Transmitters already made by Canon (albeit a tad on the expensive side) - I'd assume Nikon/etc. have equivalents." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:12:24.263" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10135" PostId="7580" Text="@Rowland Shaw - that's right." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:25:50.053" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10136" PostId="7619" Score="1" Text="Wow, I wish I could upvote this more than once. I'm sure I will accept the answer, but I want to come back later and read it again :-). I may have another questions or two..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:32:42.003" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10137" PostId="7620" Text="I think that this is actually the very first time I have heard someone describe the dynamic range of slide film as &quot;plenty&quot; :) Some are worse than others (*cough*Velvia*cough*), but none have an excess of DR and they do require very careful exposure not to blow highlights and/or block up the shadows. My Canon 1DsII is a lot more lenient actually." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:43:49.740" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10138" PostId="7618" Text="+1 Glad to see the distinction between scene DR and camera DR.  However, the sense in which the human eye has a &quot;fantastic&quot; DR is different.  *Within any given scene,* the eye can discern only about a 6 stop range--roughly 1/20 the DR of a decent DSLR sensor (up to 11 stops in the high-end Nikons).  By adjusting the pupil size and exploiting different sensing elements (rods and cones), the eye extends its sensitivity to a much wider range of about 20 stops. A camera does the same thing in fundamentally the same ways. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_eye#Dynamic_range" CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:49:33.253" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10139" PostId="3259" Score="1" Text="I'm not a lawyer either, but _by plain definition_, a painting derived from a photograph is a derivative work." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:49:48.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10140" PostId="3384" Text="The consequences of bad computer of photographic advice are less dire than the consequences of bad legal advice could be. I'd give the same big warning for medical advice." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:50:40.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10141" PostId="3384" Score="1" Text="Derivative works can be legal provided they have original elements and are transformative." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:52:33.260" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10143" PostId="7628" Text="@ysap Yours sounds like a good theory: see http://www.glassdynamicsllc.com/Anti-Newton%20Glass.htm ." CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:58:59.200" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10144" PostId="23" Score="1" Text="Also, I would be keen to see some more non-Canon-specific answers. Not that there's anything wrong with all the Canon ones!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:59:22.920" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10145" PostId="7645" Text="That is a nice example of the problems of derivative works." CreationDate="2011-01-25T15:14:26.890" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10146" PostId="7628" Text="@whuber - Ah! Thanks for the link..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T15:17:58.510" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10147" PostId="1573" Text="Hehe, yeah. According to snapsort the Leica M9 has a &quot;inferior sensor&quot;. But it is a fast way to *see* the data and compare for yourself." CreationDate="2011-01-25T15:21:15.997" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="10148" PostId="7618" Text="@whuber: I'm not quite so sure about that... At least, to my eyes it appears that the scene has a lower DR than it really has. Maybe it's a similar trick to eye focus changing rapidly such that you barely notice the blurry parts of a scene, but I do know that I could make out both the sunset and the ground when I took the last picture above. That could make an interesting question in and of itself. Hmmm..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T15:28:27.683" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10149" PostId="7646" Text="@Leonidas thanks so much for the recommendation, I'll definitely check it out.  I'm downloading the Mac build as I type this... " CreationDate="2011-01-25T15:47:05.217" UserId="3224" />
  <row Id="10150" PostId="7648" Text="my 2 cents: In getting my first prime I first tried out a friends 35mm and found it to be too wide for my taste. I went to a 50mm when making my purchase." CreationDate="2011-01-25T15:49:48.373" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="10151" PostId="7646" Text="+1 - cool Hugin side effect.  I'll have to play with this, too." CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:02:55.740" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="10152" PostId="7593" Score="2" Text="That sounds plausible.  In my case, the number of times I've accidentally moved the wheel pales in comparison to the number of times I've fumbled with the camera to try to figure out why the *^%@#$$ wheel isn't working, but I can at least understand this explanation.  Thanks." CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:09:28.323" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="10153" PostId="7648" Text="@kacalapy See my edit - 50mm will be too long for me." CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:12:16.770" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10154" PostId="7650" Text="I'm not willing to pay the price of the Canon 35mm f/1.4 - I'll rather save that money to buy an FF camera. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:21:55.460" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10155" PostId="7555" Text="My experience with this is that RAW allows for &quot;infinite&quot; overexposure so long as you have not actually saturated any of the colour channels of the sensor. 3 or 4 or 5 stops over is no problem whatsoever - given that the RAW histogram does not clip. Ref &quot;expose to the right&quot; - it works!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:28:22.163" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10156" PostId="7650" Text="Have a look at my second edit - f/1.4 would be very nice to have, but it's the FF compatibility that currently keeps me away from it. Do you think I'll be able to sell the Sigma easily?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:31:19.843" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10157" PostId="7649" Text="Haha this (http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&amp;message=26852759) gives the FF thing an entirely new aspect :D Thanks for the two links, I tend towards the Sigma again now.. I'll try to find a shop where I can try it out, too. Hopefully that'll make the decision easier for me!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:46:00.443" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10158" PostId="7651" Text="Check out my two edits - 50mm is too long for me and already covered by my 60mm lens. Do you think that 1.4 could make an important difference when shooting at night?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:47:18.647" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10159" PostId="7652" Score="1" Text="+1 - Lens Hero is a great place to read and compare lenses." CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:55:27.220" UserId="740" />
  <row Id="10160" PostId="7650" Text="You could probably sell it, but if you're planning to make the switch to FF then only buy EF lenses.  Besides the loss you take when you buy/sell a lens, there is also the learning curve when you buy a lens... there's no reason to learn the quirks of one lens, then sell it and go through the process on a new one." CreationDate="2011-01-25T16:56:26.160" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10161" PostId="7651" Score="1" Text="#2, The purple fringing is probably *caused by* chromatic aberration." CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:07:35.317" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10162" PostId="7579" Text="@ysap: thanks for the correction :)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:14:13.877" UserId="3150" />
  <row Id="10163" PostId="7651" Text="@chills42 purple fringing is different to (lateral) chromatic aberration, CA turns up in the corners whilst purple fringing happens around highlights anywhere in the frame." CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:23:15.657" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10164" PostId="7649" Score="2" Text="@eWolf That post misses a huge thing about full frame, which is the shallower depth of field it offers, a crop body &amp; 30 f/1.4 will **not** replicate the look of a 50 f/1.4 on full frame. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3986/aps-c-vs-full-frame-why-should-i-care" CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:26:35.057" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10165" PostId="7650" Score="2" Text="@chills42 normally I'd agree and say get the EF lens, but the questioner has no definite plans to go FF, it could be a year away which is plenty of time to learn a lens, and benefit from it offsetting the cost of selling it." CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:31:58.667" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10167" PostId="569" Score="1" Text="@Ysap: At least on Canon L-series lenses, there is a tiny hole in the mount for the front lens element. It allows airflow as elements move around during focusing or zoom. &quot;Full&quot; weather sealing is not possible unless this tiny hole is protected, which is where the filter comes in. So its more than just protecting the front element, adding a filter does actually play a role in full weather sealing." CreationDate="2011-01-25T17:56:31.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10168" PostId="7556" Text="Just to clarify, Blurb does a good job for the price, but you are looking for something better than magazine quality?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:04:05.823" UserId="2689" />
  <row Id="10169" PostId="7450" Text="-1. For point 1, it really doesn't matter. When a DSLR is requesting the amount of available memory, it does request the number of available bytes, and doesn't really care nor know about what is printed on the label on the card face. For point 2, MFT is pretty small compared to the space filled by real data, especially when storing only large raw photos." CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:16:17.977" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="10170" PostId="7556" Text="Correct.  I don't have a problem with Blurbs quality, especially for the price.  But there are times that I have projects that I want photo print quality books, instead of standard press print." CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:19:34.293" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="10171" PostId="569" Text="@jrista - that's very interesting piece of information. I will certainly look at my 70-200/2.8LIS when back home. This makes me wonder, though: if there is a hole there, for a purpose, then won't the sealing filter actually interfere with the normal operation of the lens?!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:41:21.300" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10172" PostId="7656" Score="2" Text="'crossprocess E6 in C41' brings up a lot of information you're probably looking for.  Welcome to cross-processing, its awesome!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T18:41:42.843" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10173" PostId="762" Score="1" Text="I think DNG is a true RAW format. In the case of Pentax, at least, it faithfully records all the raw, untransformed data from the sensor and camera. There is no loss or compromise." CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:13:11.333" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10174" PostId="7522" Text="Sure.  Moving the suggestion for Todd Hido to a comment (http://www.google.com/images?q=todd+hido&amp;um=1&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;source=og&amp;sa=N&amp;hl=en&amp;tab=wi&amp;biw=1277&amp;bih=1939)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:21:36.353" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10175" PostId="7521" Text="In the last years of her life she lived in straightened circumstances. It is possible she could not cover the cost of processing the final films." CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:23:16.520" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10176" PostId="7661" Score="2" Text="I can't endorse any recommendation for a Kodak Easy Share.  As easy as it may be to use, its just behind everybody else (especially the Canon's I've used) by SO MUCH.  There are cameras that are easy to use AND good, otherwise." CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:31:21.507" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10177" PostId="7661" Text="In my experience the Easy Share cameras are mediocre, but I did just purchase an Eye-Fi card for my D90 and I love it. I will say this about it: The setup is somewhat complicated, but when you have everything set where you want it, it works wonders. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:39:14.817" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="10178" PostId="7661" Score="2" Text="The Eye-fi is a good idea though." CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:39:18.860" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10179" PostId="6657" Score="1" Text="Why &quot;poor&quot; example? Looks great to me." CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:40:19.237" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10180" PostId="7618" Score="1" Text="@Pearsonartphoto I agree with your perception.  I believe this is because the pupil can adjust rapidly when focused on different parts of the scene.  *At any given instant,* though, it's not possible to perceive detail simultaneously in parts of a scene that vary by more than about 7 EV, even when they are right in the center (where vision is most acute).  Similarly, an automatic camera (or video cam) can also adjust dynamically when panning.  I think the lesson here is to distinguish an *instantaneous* DR (for the sensing instrument) from a *dynamic* (rapidly modified) DR." CreationDate="2011-01-25T19:40:27.397" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10181" PostId="7663" Text="Not really an answer, but check out- http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7520/which-photographer-do-you-find-inspirational" CreationDate="2011-01-25T20:18:48.187" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10182" PostId="569" Text="@Ysap: Airflow just needs to be between moving element groups. You don't actually need &quot;fresh&quot; air, you just need to allow air to move around. Think of it this way...if you zoom, and that requires that the front lens element move toward the back of the lens, and the back lens element move toward the front of the lens, then the air between those two needs to flow past those moving lens elements. Its a fixed volume of air, but how that fixed volume is distributed inside the lens changes as you focus and zoom. You can still have a sealed lens, so long as you allow air movement within the seal." CreationDate="2011-01-25T20:36:06.540" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10183" PostId="569" Text="@jrista - that was exactly what I was thinking when making my first comment, which makes the whole &quot;hole&quot; thing even more mysterious. If you can effectively seal that hole with a filter, then why is it there in the first place? Unless the front element itself moves relative to the filter ring. In this case, the filter just closes a non-changing volume, and the air flows in and out of the inner partial volume. But I don't think this is the case with the L lenses." CreationDate="2011-01-25T20:40:23.457" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10184" PostId="1573" Score="1" Text="I like it more than dpreview when searching for features ..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:04:57.213" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10185" PostId="7655" Score="1" Text="Sigma on FF: http://i.imgur.com/6AJC1.jpg = instant art :-D" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:08:36.147" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10186" PostId="7662" Score="1" Text="I know the feeling, microwaves confuse me as well." CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:20:52.290" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10187" PostId="7661" Score="5" Text="This down vote is one reason I am uncomfortable with equipment recommendations. I would only criticise another person's endorsement if it was plainly and obviously bad. Failing that it is better to reply with one's own reasoned endorsement." CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:27:13.520" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10188" PostId="7631" Text="@Matt Well I've already upvoted your answer, so I asked a new question for you :-) http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7667/how-to-cope-with-high-contrast" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:34:37.197" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10189" PostId="7669" Score="1" Text="Don't bet on the RAW for (so much higher) dynamic range, but the rest of your arguments are valid." CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:44:44.403" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10190" PostId="7669" Score="5" Text="@Leonidas - In order to squeeze every bit of dynamic range in this stressful situation, I think the RAW over JPEG is certainly preferable." CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:48:49.990" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10191" PostId="7660" Score="5" Text="I think this is highly related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5698/digital-camera-for-someone-without-a-computer" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:52:19.553" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="10192" PostId="7670" Score="3" Text="The 60 is probably going to be your best bet unless you absolutely need it to double up for other uses. You can always get closer to the artwork (there's no need to zoom in) but it's really hard to get further away when you're already up against a wall. A shorter focal length, combined with the flat field of focus and rectilinearity of a good prime macro, will get you where you want to go." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:02:05.707" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10193" PostId="7649" Text="@Matt I know about that. I'm not really after the bokeh too much though, I'm more interested in being able to shoot at night." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:12:58.663" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10194" PostId="7669" Score="1" Text="Raw files will be easier to manipulate, but the dynamic range of the sensor is fixed for a given ISO, so a correctly exposed and (in-camera-)processed jpeg will be as good/bad as the original raw." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:19:24.883" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="10195" PostId="7669" Score="2" Text="Yes, but you never get to do anything with that JPEG. Let's not start a RAW vs JPEG war." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:23:21.740" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10196" PostId="7674" Score="1" Text="Metering to the right (ETTR) is really only useful at the lowest ISO setting. A +1 overexposure at ISO 200 is exactly the same (and possibly less optimal) than +0 at ISO 100. See http://chromasoft.blogspot.com/2009/09/why-expose-to-right-is-just-plain-wrong.html" CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:25:08.993" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10197" PostId="7669" Score="1" Text="I believe RAW captures a greater dynamic range because the underexposed regions are more salvageable (because they contain more information). Someone please correct me on this if I'm wrong. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:26:18.073" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="10198" PostId="87" Score="4" Text="You might want to use an ND filter to cut down the light in that situation. I would rather shoot at 1/4000th after cutting light by a stop than lose that stop of dynamic range." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:28:02.377" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10199" PostId="7665" Text="The first approach is one of the main ones I use. If I love a photograph, I'm drawn to how it was taken, not so I can imitate it, but use those ideas (lighting, composition) to better myself and end up hopefully taking shots on the same level." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:29:41.343" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10200" PostId="7674" Score="1" Text="+1 for mentioning a reflector." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:33:40.077" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10201" PostId="7593" Text="I've had this a couple of times on my 50D. So confusing until I worked out what it was." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:34:10.297" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10202" PostId="7661" Text="If an answer isn't open to criticism - then I'm not sure the question has a *right* answer." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:36:42.930" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10203" PostId="1692" Text="That's the point where I said, I'm using manual. Never missed a beat since!" CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:37:03.163" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10204" PostId="7669" Score="1" Text="@rm999 - since RAW is usually 12-14 bit format, as opposed to 8 but JPEG, then technically there are dozens more levels of details between any adjacent JPEG levels. It is true that the more useful sub-levels are within the shadows, but then, using local contrast techniques or local tone mapping, you benefit from sub-levels at the whole intensity range." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:37:13.537" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10205" PostId="347" Text="This applies to all Canon USM lenses too." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:42:34.657" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10206" PostId="1701" Score="2" Text="I suspect this is because ISO 1600 is a common point where in-sensor amplification stops and digital multiplication begins. ISO 1600 * 2 = 3200 for example. The reason this slows things down is because the whole image must be digitally amplified on top of all the other things it's doing." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:44:28.757" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10207" PostId="7600" Text="Indeed. This is how most external lighting is done with flashes." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:45:47.507" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10208" PostId="7666" Text="I stumbled on this too. I was ecstatic." CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:46:51.517" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10209" PostId="7661" Text="It's good to criticize other people's answers, but it's bad to downvote them unless they are wrong. " CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:49:34.453" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="10210" PostId="7590" Score="1" Text="Oh, I gotta agree, TCB's work is totally mind blowing/inspiring. That dude is the Truth..." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:00:30.523" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10211" PostId="7580" Text="I'm thinking that the metal frames/bodies of the hardcore pro cameras might pose a bit of a problem for a transmitter embedded somewhere it wasn't designed to be. And the physical size of the device precludes an antenna that I would (as a pro, which I once was even if I no longer am) trust for anything more than a go/no-go signal over any real distance. And how about interference from a microdrive spinning in the slot next door (some photogs still prefer them to solid state)? I'd have to see a lot of third-party evidence of reliability before I'd trust it, esp. for two-way." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:01:30.600" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10212" PostId="7680" Score="1" Text="http://photo.net/learn/orange-negative-mask" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:19:04.330" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10213" PostId="7674" Text="Might want to clarify that by &quot;balance&quot; you're referring to the color of the fill light, not the level with respect to the ambient." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:19:18.197" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10214" PostId="7669" Score="2" Text="A 14-bit RAW image contains 64 times the amount of detail than a JPEG. That is crucial when working with darker photos where you wish to make that detail visible. In a JPEG if the pixel value is less than 10 (out of 255), that could actually represent anywhere from 0 to 640 in a RAW pixel value. This detail allows a shadowy pixel to be brought up in exposure without significant compromise to it's aesthetics. That being said, JPEG is tone curved and RAW is linear so it's a rough guide." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:26:04.337" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10215" PostId="7655" Text="I actually quite like the effect of an undersized image circle. It would get repetitive if you did it for every shot though. But if your FF camera has enough megapixels you can crop out the middle and get similar shots to what you would with the 450D" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:28:10.623" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10216" PostId="7682" Text="I did come accross the linked article, but I don't really understand how it interacts with slide film. - scanned slides appear to have correct colour, which would seem to imply that the dies that the mask purports to correct are correctly there?" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:32:36.177" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="10217" PostId="7677" Text="Are you shooting video or stills? Video is much less demanding on resolution so fast C mount lenses are a very attractive option" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:35:14.300" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10218" PostId="7648" Text="Don't assume that you will &quot;upgrade&quot; to full frame - see several questions about the pros and cons on this site, including http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/840/dx-or-fx-lenses" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:38:55.230" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10219" PostId="7655" Text="I think the &quot;APS-C lens =&gt; sharper on APS-C&quot; is a bit of an overgeneralization. Certainly the Sigma in question could be very sharp, but there are plenty of APS-C specific lenses that aren't sharper than their FF equivalents." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:41:00.143" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10221" PostId="7648" Text="Another relevant question when deciding whether to go full frame: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3986/aps-c-vs-full-frame-why-should-i-care" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:44:32.370" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10222" PostId="1698" Text="@thomasrutter, not quite: cameras that have &quot;extended&quot; ISO settings do this for the extended ISO levels. Many cameras these days really do have ISO greater than 1600." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:45:05.180" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10223" PostId="7655" Text="@Reid There are exceptions yes, but the Canon lens was released in 1995 before manufacturers started optimising lenses for digital, whereas the Sigma was designed a year or so ago specifically for smaller, more pixel dense APS-C sensors so I'd back it to be sharper." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:51:15.700" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10224" PostId="7682" Text="Ah, yea, good question." CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:56:10.120" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10225" PostId="7682" Score="3" Text="That's (part of) why slide film is more expensive -- they go to quite a bit of extra work to ensure that each dye layer is much &quot;purer&quot; (e.g., adding extra &quot;sealing&quot; layers between the dye layers). E.g., page 6 of: http://www.fujifilm.com/products/professional_films/pdf/provia_400x_datasheet.pdf" CreationDate="2011-01-26T00:00:47.507" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10226" PostId="1716" Text="@jrista: One thing that I'd love to hear your comments on (probably would require a whole 'nother master thesis) is on printer calibration/maintenance/inks. Example: I don't really have a clue if my printer is performing to its potential. How could I figure this out? also: inks are so bloody expensive that it makes me want to try 3rd party ones... at least for some prints. Good idea/bad? why? what is a inkjet ink made of? thx" CreationDate="2011-01-26T00:48:35.810" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="10227" PostId="7525" Text="Wow, she's amazing. Added." CreationDate="2011-01-26T00:49:30.723" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10228" PostId="7018" Text="yea. I use a t2i now. I want to milk its 18mp for all it's worth then get all I can out of the say 28mp 5d3 for the 2-3 years it is badass." CreationDate="2011-01-26T00:51:31.720" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="10229" PostId="99" Text="Same on my XSi. This is incredibly helpful if you zoom in when reviewing your photos. Without using the dial, you have to zoom back out to 1:1 for the arrow buttons to move between photos." CreationDate="2011-01-26T00:55:38.427" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="10230" PostId="7682" Text="ah, thanks, that does help exchange it." CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:25:09.313" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="10231" PostId="569" Text="@ysap: I guess I would have to create a diagram demonstrating what I am trying to describe. Think about it this way. Assume you have a three element lens, with a movable front element, a fixed middle element, and a movable back element. The volume between the front and middle element is *dynamic*, as is the volume between the middle and back element. Lets assume (however contrived) that to reduce the focal length, the front and back elements need to move towards the middle element. That means the volume between the front and middle elements SHRINKS! The same goes for the middle and back..." CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:39:33.303" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10232" PostId="569" Text="To accommodate the shifting volumes, one of two things can happen. You either compress the air in the volume between the first/middle and back/middle elements increasing pressure, OR...you create a pathway that allows air to move past the front and back elements, maintaining pressure (reducing the amount of air as volume decreases.) Conversely, if you expand the volume between the front/middle and back/middle elements, you either lower pressure, or allow air to move past the front and back elements to fill the additional volume. " CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:42:37.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10233" PostId="7689" Score="1" Text="&quot;Awful usability&quot; doesn't have any actual _meaning_. Can you be more specific?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:43:37.103" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10234" PostId="569" Text="Without a filter, particulate, water, etc. can enter through the hole in the mount for the front lens element in a sealed lens when you increase the volume inside the lens. Adding a filter doesn't prevent airflow, however it does keep the air that is currently inside the lens the same air...it prevents other air, possibly filled with particulate, from entering." CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:44:13.530" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10235" PostId="1716" Text="@Kevin: I could probably provide some answers to that. I'll have to work on it a bit, as there are probably a few separate articles on those subjects. Ink and calibration are two full articles at least. Maintenance is pretty strait forward, and differs between models and brands, so I am not sure I can really provide much useful general advice in that area." CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:46:32.747" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10236" PostId="7681" Score="1" Text="haha, do photographers really frown upon hdr? I really like hdr shots a lot. The reflection in the guitar in this hdr shot is really nice. Oh, and great answer! +1." CreationDate="2011-01-26T02:32:12.267" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10237" PostId="6657" Text="@ysap, thanks, the first sample was a lot worse, I removed it, I am still not that happy with the contrast and colors on this one. " CreationDate="2011-01-26T02:35:40.960" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="10238" PostId="7681" Score="1" Text="I personally think the HDR looks much more realistic, since in real life people aren't magically illuminated strongly with the light source behind them (unless they have the superpower of partial transparency).  I would mention as a con that if the subject is not totally still you can get weird partial artifacts." CreationDate="2011-01-26T02:58:37.090" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="10239" PostId="7674" Text="@nick: true, but since the example was outdoors with strong lights I figured he would be shooting at a low ISO anyway.  @craig: I edited the answer to mention the color temperature for clarity." CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:00:20.613" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="10240" PostId="7681" Score="5" Text="HDR is great when it is done to simulate ONLY the high dynamic range of the human eye. Those weird effects people think are HDR just mess up the whole stereotype. In reality all HDR is meant to be is expanding the dynamic range of your camera via a multi-exposure. Viewing dark and bright areas in an analogous way to how we see things." CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:07:33.273" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10241" PostId="3384" Text="Well, there are a lot of caveats there @labnut. Derived works can be an OK use even if they're 99.95% the same, in some circumstances (e.g., open source software). My understanding is that almost by definition, a derived work would be infringing. It is absolutely not sufficient to add your own elements and/or change it &quot;enough&quot;. There are things like fair use which would make it OK; neither of the OP's scenarios are anywhere near fair use. But in general, if you are concerned with the nitty gritty of whether a particular use is infringing, you really do need to consult a lawyer." CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:44:56.347" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10242" PostId="3259" Text="Both of these are derived works." CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:46:05.050" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10243" PostId="7580" Text="@Stan, sure but metal body and CF card don't imply each other. For example, the D7000 has a magnesium body but uses SDHC cards." CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:48:26.547" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10244" PostId="7655" Text="@Matt, sure, and given your edit I think it's a better answer. But, why generalize about sharpness using a rule of thumb when one can simply look up the numbers for this specific lens? (with caveats about sample variance, of course)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:50:33.797" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10246" PostId="7647" Text="Well, reasonable *is* what I'm trying for in this particular question. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T03:52:11.317" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10247" PostId="7580" Text="A metal body doesn't imply CF, but most CF-using 35mm-format cameras (of current vintage) are metal-bodied. How well does EyeFi work in the D7000? (That's a question, not a jab -- I haven't investigated, I'm just an ex-radio tech.)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T05:02:30.693" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10248" PostId="569" Text="@jrista - this is exactly what I meant in the &quot;Unless the front element itself moves relative to the filter ring&quot; part. Again, as far as I remember, it does not move, but I can be wrong (and it can also be a private case for the 70-200/2.8." CreationDate="2011-01-26T05:03:33.080" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10249" PostId="569" Text="@ysap: Not all front lens elements move. Most zoom lenses have moving element groups, and all internal focusing lenses have moving element groups. The simple point is that there needs to be some way for pressure to equalize as those elements move around. In the case of my 16-35mm L II, its front element does move, and the holes for airflow is clearly visible. You can see images of this lens here: http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-16-35mm-f-2.8-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx, the holes are visible in the metal mount right next to the lens element." CreationDate="2011-01-26T05:12:29.883" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10250" PostId="7492" Text="Thanks @MattGrum, totally forgot about the old ones!" CreationDate="2011-01-26T05:47:59.657" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="10251" PostId="7683" Score="2" Text="Hi Grzegorz, and welcome to the forums. While we don't have any problem linking off-site content, as a general rule we prefer that the most relevant information, or a summary about what the off-site link is, be included in the answer. That makes the answer useful in and of itself, without *requiring* that viewers refer to another site (which may, at any time, be unavailable, temporarily or even permanently.) If you could fill in some more useful and relevant information about the spreadsheet and how it pertains to the question, that would be great!" CreationDate="2011-01-26T06:46:31.447" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10252" PostId="569" Text="@jrista - OK, I went to check my 70-200/2.8LIS - as I remembered there is no movement apparent of the front element while zooming or focusing. Accordingly, I could not see any visible hole there. The fixed size can be seen in the third image in http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-70-200mm-f-2.8-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx." CreationDate="2011-01-26T06:58:09.937" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10253" PostId="7648" Text="@Reid @Matt Thanks for the links. I'm pretty confident regarding FF because of the lower noise level, better bokeh and wider angle. However, I'll wait for the 5D Mark III to come out first and hope that its AF will catch up with the 7D." CreationDate="2011-01-26T07:48:50.950" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10254" PostId="7676" Score="1" Text="From my understanding, purple fringing is a kind of CA that can **not** be removed by simply flipping a switch. You can certainly do some PS work to get rid of it, but that takes a lot of time and work and thus is not really a solution." CreationDate="2011-01-26T07:51:36.733" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10255" PostId="7676" Text="Also, I can't quite follow your assumption that corner sharpness is less important on an f/1.4 lens. Why do you assume the focused subject is always in the center of the image?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T07:53:48.787" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10256" PostId="7654" Score="2" Text="It states &quot;Set brightness to a level you are comfortable with&quot;, I'm going to see how it goes at that and maybe upgrade later." CreationDate="2011-01-26T08:50:36.033" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="10257" PostId="7673" Text="This is the very first answer that came to mind when I saw the question." CreationDate="2011-01-26T08:52:40.040" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10258" PostId="7689" Score="2" Text="Hmm, awful is overstating it a bit. Different, yes. The floating windows in Gimp tend to confuse people but they are a real boon if you have a large screen." CreationDate="2011-01-26T09:51:01.597" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10259" PostId="7691" Text="I find the Wavelet Denoise plugin to be pretty good." CreationDate="2011-01-26T09:53:08.350" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10260" PostId="7696" Score="1" Text="Good lens, but it may be too tight, especially on a crop camera. He wants to photograph artwork, and I guess there is a wall behind him that he wants to stay in front of :)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T10:02:21.383" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10261" PostId="569" Text="This is an awesome discussion - could you guys turn it into a question / answer?  That way, it would really benefit the community." CreationDate="2011-01-26T10:15:16.487" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10262" PostId="7665" Text="First and last, this is the best answer for me - every time!" CreationDate="2011-01-26T10:16:32.040" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10263" PostId="7694" Text="Absolutely.  Great answer." CreationDate="2011-01-26T10:19:25.640" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10264" PostId="7619" Text="In good light small sensor P&amp;S cameras actually compare rather well in the DR stakes, as dynamic range determined by the noise floor, which relates to the quality of the electronics not the amount of light captured. In medium and low light their dynamic range drops fast as the light gathering ability of a small sensor is not as good and photon noise starts to dominate." CreationDate="2011-01-26T10:56:43.700" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10265" PostId="7618" Score="1" Text="Where are these 24 bit per pixel cameras? I hear mention of them but never seen a reference. As far as I can tell 24bpp wouldn't be &quot;magnificent&quot; but a complete waste of resources as you'll have more levels than you have *photons hitting your sensels*, by a factor of many thousands, possibly millions so you'll just wind up with lots of bits of noise! " CreationDate="2011-01-26T11:09:48.343" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10268" PostId="7675" Score="2" Text="@Stan, I just added a few line breaks - I think it will make people more likely to read everything you've written, rather than just thinking it's too much text to read.  " CreationDate="2011-01-26T12:01:35.217" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10269" PostId="7603" Text="Cool article.  I'm going to try that setup.  Thanks! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T12:10:01.070" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10270" PostId="7619" Text="Exactly. The problem with a P&amp;S is that ISO 200, for example, is more of a struggle than in a large sensor. Achieving the same acceleration with a 1/5th the horsepower, in silly car analogies :P" CreationDate="2011-01-26T12:29:01.553" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10271" PostId="7647" Text="I know, it's just a reminder that there are much better options... but yeah, CVS is decent." CreationDate="2011-01-26T13:26:40.493" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10272" PostId="7648" Score="1" Text="Just don't get fooled into thinking that wider aperture means you will be able to shoot in low light. If you open the aperture more, you will get a shallower DOF. It only works if you want such a shallow DOF in low light... If you don't want a shallow DOF, you need to rely on your camera's ISO setting or use a flash." CreationDate="2011-01-26T13:55:30.033" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10273" PostId="7699" Text="Any idea if the Cokin P (slim) will work at 10mm (which works out to 15mm EFL on the D90)?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:27:09.263" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10274" PostId="7681" Text="If you don't mind, how did you have your flash set up in the first shot? i.e. how tight was it zoomed, I assume it was close to the subject, and was it gridded? Thx. Good looking photographs." CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:36:53.160" UserId="3472" />
  <row Id="10275" PostId="7700" Score="2" Text="She may indeed have long legs, btw." CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:41:31.410" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10276" PostId="7700" Score="5" Text="Also, high heels help." CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:49:22.257" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10277" PostId="7601" Text="You can buy low profile filters specificly designed for wide-angles to reduce vignetting." CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:49:45.610" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10278" PostId="7580" Text="@Stan Rogers - I am surprised that you mentioned some photogs still prefer MicroDrives. Now that SS reached 128GB, I wonder what is a good reason for this preference." CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:53:52.180" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10279" PostId="7601" Text="@Matt Grum: Yup, my only question is will they be low-profile enough." CreationDate="2011-01-26T15:56:55.737" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10280" PostId="7681" Score="1" Text="@ThatSteveGuy cheers. The flash was resting on a bag about a foot off the ground. It was zoomed to 75mm, no light modifiers, full power. Overpowering the sun at 1/250s is difficult with a single flash hence the need to zoom. " CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:03:28.690" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10281" PostId="7705" Text="That is such an interesting idea!" CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:36:57.590" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10282" PostId="7664" Text="Photo clubs are an excellent source of inspiration." CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:37:59.350" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10283" PostId="7682" Score="2" Text="Instead of just linking to an answer, why not create an answer *here*. Almost 60% of this site's traffic comes from search engines. A link does *nothing* to bring more members to *this* site." CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:38:11.817" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="10284" PostId="7682" Text="Its true but then you're advocating that people just copy information from other sites and paste it in here, that does nothing for those other sites :)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:39:11.273" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10285" PostId="7698" Text="Macro lenses pretty much have no aberrations to speak of, so this is not much of an issue. Besides, it only works for JPG anyway." CreationDate="2011-01-26T16:49:49.263" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10286" PostId="7661" Text="And &quot;wrong&quot; being &quot;technically inaccurate&quot;, not &quot;not as good as another answer&quot;. On opinion questions like this, the respondent can only speak from their own experience." CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:04:39.273" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10287" PostId="7629" Text="@Ziv to follow on from @Maynard's point -- don't forget that some over-jealous filters will block anything with &quot;forum&quot; in the hostname, which makes your answer unreadable." CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:15:20.487" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10288" PostId="7708" Score="1" Text="Good point -- you can sometimes to the same by including smaller-than-normal props as well." CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:31:37.980" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10289" PostId="7704" Text="You mean &quot;This is the same reason you should *not* use a longer lens for regular portraits,&quot; right?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:38:55.103" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10290" PostId="7704" Score="2" Text="@Jay No, I mean &quot;This is the same reason you *should* use a longer lens for regular portraits&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:43:59.897" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10291" PostId="7704" Score="1" Text="Oh jeez, I'm a dope. For some reason I read that as &quot;This is the same reason you should us a *wide angle* lens for regular portraits.&quot; Off to go find me some coffee and wake up a bit more before I peruse photo.se.com further... :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:46:36.623" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10292" PostId="569" Text="@ysap: Correct, the 70-200 is all internal focusing/zoom, so the front element does not move. Airflow is still possible internally, as there is space between movable elements and the lens casing. I noted that most, but not all, Canon lenses require a filter to complete weather sealing. Most of the newest black L-series Canon zooms have a moving front element that slides inside of a tube. The filter screws into the tube rather than the front element mount, so it does not appear that the lens changes length when zooming, however it is. The white lenses are a bit different." CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:11:56.637" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10293" PostId="7670" Text="Another option beside the EF-S 60mm might be the EF 50mm with some extension tubes. That would reduce the MFD, and increase magnification. The wide aperture on the 50mm would help in indoor situations where light may be lower." CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:17:03.823" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10294" PostId="569" Text="@jrista - so in that case, putting a filter does not block the airflow around the front element, and there is no problem. The only time where a problem can arise is when you have a moving front element and a filter attached to it (and moves with it as well). Then you confine a fixed volume in front of the element and this may interfere with the movement of the element." CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:21:44.237" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10295" PostId="569" Score="1" Text="@jrista - If I'm inspired later today, I'll try to make this a question/answer, as @AJ Finch suggested." CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:23:15.953" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10296" PostId="7691" Text="That's what I use too. It *is* pretty good, but I still think it's also fair to call it &quot;rough&quot;. And it hasn't been updated in over two years." CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:55:59.187" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10297" PostId="1005" Text="Similarly, Kevin Clarke did this with a red couch, and subsequently published an art book about it. I find it fascinating. - http://www.amazon.com/Red-Couch-Portrait-America/dp/0912383054" CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:29:29.410" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="10298" PostId="7682" Score="1" Text="@Shizam: You can still link the other site, but our answer guidelines state that any key information from that site should be quoted and/or summarized here." CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:31:37.397" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10299" PostId="7682" Text="Ah, thanks for the clarification." CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:43:58.623" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10300" PostId="569" Text="@ysap: Your front element is fixed, so no airflow around it is necessary. If you look at the back end of your lens, and focus or zoom, you should be able to see some elements moving inside of the lens. You should also notice that even when the back lens element group is as far back as it can go, it is not &quot;sealed&quot;, so you do have airflow there. When used on a sealed body, the air volume within the lens and camera is fixed, but the individual volumes between moving element groups can still change. Airflow around the front element is only necessary if it moves, and a hole only when sealed." CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:44:27.990" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10301" PostId="6820" Text="I shot more sample time lapses with a 1/2 second exposure with a 2 second interval (1.5 seconds after accounting for the exposure) and I like the smoothness of the pictures / video produced.  Taking pictures with an SLR and an intervalometer was more than a little distracting, the sound of the shutter opening and closing ..." CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:51:14.537" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="10302" PostId="6820" Text="I wrote an application for my camera phone and while it works, but it isn't stable.  The drivers I based it off of are still beta and crash periodically.  The good news with it though is, it is perfectly silent, you cannot tell pictures are being taken so it does not annoy people.  I'm trying to get my point and shoot working with CHDK and have limited success with it so far." CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:52:56.657" UserId="3188" />
  <row Id="10303" PostId="3384" Text="@Reid, in my reply you will see that I stated both of the OP's scenarios were, IMHO, infringing. Open source is another problem, we need not consider it here. Yes, there are many caveats, which was why I linked to Professor Stern's article. As for adding elements and making changes to produce a derivative work, that can be fair use - see the famous Mona Lisa - LHOOQ example quoted by Stern." CreationDate="2011-01-26T19:53:08.480" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10304" PostId="3384" Text="@Reid, Yes, one should consult a lawyer (when the matter is important enough), but, er, as a rule, we don't. The plain fact is that photographers need simple guidelines to help decide the mundane, ordinary cases before they rush off to the expensive inconvenience of a lawyer. It will, at a minimum, help them to decide when to involve a lawyer. So a healthy discussion, like this one, can be very beneficial and should not be limited to advice to see a lawyer." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:00:55.183" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10305" PostId="7159" Text="It depends on the camera; the 5DmkII has a secondary AF that doesn’t require dropping the mirror." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:14:26.963" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="10306" PostId="7712" Text="I like your advice about feeling and emotion" CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:15:44.873" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10307" PostId="7706" Score="1" Text="That is good advice, to have a project to work on. I am reminded of the whimsical advice sometimes given to those who are too cerebral, Ready, Fire, Aim! Or, to mis-quote Hamlet, 'let the deed be father to the thought'." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:18:38.567" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10308" PostId="7689" Text="I'm not clear exactly what you (or the linked-to Donna M article) mean with the distinction between findability and discoverability. Mostly when I come across those terms in ui design, they are broadly synonymous. In game design, the distinction made is that discoverability is about learning through intentional exploration, usually with story elements. I'm not sure that's really right for a photo editing application." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:23:16.210" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10309" PostId="7689" Text="I'm not saying that the Gimp UI is great, but another thing to keep in mind is that discoverability/findability are important, but are only one aspect of usability. For something that one uses very frequently, they may be a secondary concern compared to features that make the application work quickly for common tasks." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:26:05.893" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10310" PostId="7531" Text="I'm not sure there will be a correct answer for this, and may just attract people [promoting themselves](http://www.showhomeart.com/) which is a bit spammy. Bear in mind [we have a policy on affiliate links](http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/q/661/21) if answering." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:27:25.050" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10311" PostId="7713" Score="4" Text="Note that f/1.8 is 4.3 stops from f/8, but ¹/₂₀₀th of a second is only two stops faster than ¹/₅₀th. So, these two examples will not give you the same exposure — the second will be considerably darker." CreationDate="2011-01-26T20:53:58.417" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10312" PostId="7713" Score="1" Text="Also, not that this question is inherently bad, but you can find a lot more on the topic simply by clicking on the links for the `[exposure]`, `[aperture]`, and `[shutter-speed]` tags." CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:07:24.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10313" PostId="7713" Score="1" Text="Thanks. But I only supposed those values. Just for conveying the idea behind the question :)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:08:26.120" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="10314" PostId="7713" Score="2" Text="If you put the first one to f/1.4 and make the shutter speed 1/1600th of a second, it's both technically correct _and_ conveys the idea. :) " CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:14:16.393" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10315" PostId="7718" Text="1/12th to 1/10th?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:19:31.943" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10316" PostId="1697" Text="The Pentax lenses that have the quick-shift mechanism *don't* have USM (or other in-lens) motors; it's a clever mechanical thing on some of their lenses. (The DA Limited series doesn't have _room_ for a built-in motor.)" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:34:16.680" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10317" PostId="7719" Score="3" Text="Ha, you might have had better luck asking the question without the semi-creepy back story." CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:41:45.547" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10318" PostId="7714" Text="I am not upvoting this correct answer only b/c it is partial and assumes a static scene." CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:42:19.760" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10319" PostId="7719" Score="4" Text="I said that in the past and say it again - I can't see why this question deserves _two_ downvotes (as of now)! Some people in this forum are trigger happy indeed. What is the difference between this question and dozen other similar questions asking for advice on specific photography type? Is it the background story? Give me a break... @Ben Kennett, welcome to the community and don't be discouraged by the downvotes. I am sure you'll get some good answers to your question here. And people, the least you can do it to comment on **WHY** the downvote!" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:47:52.267" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10320" PostId="7719" Text="@ysap - just to be clear, I was not a downvoter and just speculated why. I think I could have worded the questoin much differently and it would have gotten upvotes. I do encourage that anyone who downvotes leave a message saying why. Constructive criticism will help the poster learn how to be a better member of the community." CreationDate="2011-01-26T22:08:17.007" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10321" PostId="7719" Text="@ysap Thank you for the welcome, and Tom I'm not to sure what you mean by semi-creepy thats what happened do you want me to edit it out and repost my question?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T22:09:56.053" UserId="3507" />
  <row Id="10322" PostId="7722" Text="So what is the '5-6' EV range that is often used when comparing 35mm cameras?" CreationDate="2011-01-26T22:10:27.730" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10323" PostId="7719" Text="For example. &quot;I know a lot about landscape and flower photography. I'm looking to branch out and try something new like Fashion photography. How does it differ from the type of photography I am used to and what are some things I can do to learn to become a better fashion photographer.&quot;... or something to that effect." CreationDate="2011-01-26T22:10:48.550" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10325" PostId="7722" Score="1" Text="@Shizam I've updated my answer, basically I think the 5-6 EV result is based on a qualitative assessment by photographers rather than a measurement by software." CreationDate="2011-01-26T22:50:51.690" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10326" PostId="7722" Text="Yea, that makes sense and is what I thought might be the case.  Well this certainly makes some of the specs of digital MF less impressive." CreationDate="2011-01-26T22:54:35.567" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10327" PostId="7719" Text="Try this google search: https://encrypted.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;safe=off&amp;q=%22guy+with+camera%22" CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:05:56.313" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10328" PostId="7725" Score="2" Text="Good question... we've had lists of podcasts and books but not yet of magazines.  I'm going to flag this for community wiki, folks should probably post one response per answer." CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:07:47.330" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10329" PostId="7722" Text="The whole &quot;big sensor -&gt; more dynamic range&quot; thing is a bit of a myth. Small sensors with good electronics (low noise floor) can exhibit large dynamic range, look at the Pentax K5 for example. It's a hangover from film, when noise was determined by the emulsion so using the same film in a larger format would convey an advantage due to the extra light captured." CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:10:10.533" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10330" PostId="7370" Text="Backing up images to floppy discs? That would mean one standard jpg file per disc, wouldn't it?&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:10:15.593" UserId="3072" />
  <row Id="10331" PostId="7722" Text="I think the 5-6EV film and 5-7EV for digital sensor is based on real-world metering tests. It is a bit subjective, but I think it is a more relevant measure of &quot;usable&quot; dynamic range. I do this all the time myself, when I spot meter the brightest and darkest parts of a scene, and compute the difference (most often in shutter speed.) Usually, scenes that have more than around 7-8 EV difference between maximum bright and minimum dark have too much contrast to be captured by my cameras sensor without blowing out highlights. " CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:22:59.230" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10332" PostId="7722" Text="DXOMark lists my camera as having 10.6 EV of DR. I will say that when I first started photography, I could get about 5-7 EV worth of DR with my Canon 450D (XSi). These days, now that I do ETTR, I figure I get at least 7-8, and possibly a little more when lighting allows me to push the histogram farther to the right. I don't think it is possible to capture a scene that literally has 10 stops of DR in it, for a variety of reasons. One is simply that it is hard to ETTR with any degree of fine accuracy and maximize your sensors potential without blowing out at least one color channel." CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:26:14.653" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10333" PostId="7700" Score="1" Text="I'm 5'2&quot; (and male, despite my name). Not only do photos of me remind me of how short I am, the photos I take also remind me of how short I am -- because everything I shoot is from a rather low angle. :(" CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:31:26.287" UserId="2456" />
  <row Id="10334" PostId="7722" Score="1" Text="I think it is important to make the distinction between what is physically/mathematically possible, and what is usable in the real world. A sensor may have 14EV worth of dynamic range between the darkest useful measurable level and the brightest level at maximum saturation. How often are you going to be able to use every last scrap of that DR? In the real world, when you factor in higher ISO, the need for some wiggle room, and the inaccuracy of in-camera histograms, even with ETTR, that 14EV camera probably offers 8-10 usable, functional stops of DR." CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:31:38.970" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10335" PostId="7722" Text="@jrista yea thats also something I was wondering about, what the 'useable' DR is.  " CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:38:21.393" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10336" PostId="7670" Text="@jrista: I don't think the extension tubes would help much in this case, because reproduction this isn't about extreme closeups but rather high resolution and image quality." CreationDate="2011-01-26T23:40:11.813" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10337" PostId="7670" Text="@che: Extension tubes will allow a closer focus distance, though. If a fast 50mm can't focus in the distance available, and extension tube can help you get past that limitation." CreationDate="2011-01-27T00:08:21.700" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10338" PostId="7722" Score="1" Text="@Shizam: Aye, which is why I think your question is so important. There are a lot of &quot;scientific&quot; measurements we can make with digital sensors that will spit out a number like 12EV. But if that doesn't correlate with real-world use, then such a number is useless. I think a more valuable number would be &quot;real world stops of DR&quot;. It may be a bit more subjective, but humans excel at subjectivity. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T00:10:49.887" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10339" PostId="7406" Score="2" Text="Just a reminder since you are new, it is customary to accept an answer when you are satisfied with one." CreationDate="2011-01-27T01:03:29.817" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10340" PostId="7721" Score="1" Text="If she's a good model, she should be doing numerous poses herself without you needing to go beyond basic direction." CreationDate="2011-01-27T01:09:07.580" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10341" PostId="7669" Text="The 12- or 14-bit values of RAW don't give you the benefit you may think they do, because JPEG's 8-bit values have already been gamma corrected, while RAW's values require gamma correction.  Gamma correction means the darkest parts are afforded more depth, to closely match the way we see.  Nick's statement about the first 10 in JPEG equalling the first 640 in RAW is therefore wrong.  In reality the first 10 values in JPEG probably only represent not many more than that in RAW.  RAW needs its higher bit depth just to be able to match JPEG after correction." CreationDate="2011-01-27T01:12:43.243" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10342" PostId="7643" Text="I worry that you are not fully answering the OP's question. I see the relevant quotation from Wikipedia (specifically, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derived_work) as: &quot;Copyright infringement liability for a later work arises only if the later work embodies a substantial amount of protected expression taken from the earlier, underlying work.&quot; It's the &quot;substantial amount of protected expression&quot; that matters in this case, not whether it's original and transformative enough to be a derived work." CreationDate="2011-01-27T02:43:25.940" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10343" PostId="3384" Text="Of course, one doesn't need a lawyer when it's a simple question. IMO, the boundaries of when, exactly, a particular derived work is infringing is not a simple question. Thus the recommendation for a lawyer if that is what one is concerned about." CreationDate="2011-01-27T02:45:40.633" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10344" PostId="7620" Text="I think contrasty, saturated images right out of camera is the trademark of Velvia - its reason for existing - and hence it is designed to have a characteristically low dynamic range, no?  I'm sure that a modern digital sensor easily beats something like it for dynamic range, but mainly because people shooting Velvia want contrasty, not headroom.  Anyway, I guess my original point was today's sensors are really not stunted when it comes to dynamic range when compared to film." CreationDate="2011-01-27T02:57:53.817" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10346" PostId="7734" Text="Why the down vote? I can remove the images if that's what's bothering you." CreationDate="2011-01-27T04:13:40.730" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10347" PostId="7719" Score="2" Text="Personally I admire the honesty. I think it helps to know the precise situation so that advice can be more accurate. Who cares about the story, I try to judge peoples questions not the people..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T05:02:55.183" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="10348" PostId="7740" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [Portable light box for shooting beer bottles](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3982/portable-light-box-for-shooting-beer-bottles)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T05:56:18.260" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10349" PostId="3653" Text="Thanks for the link to the test!  And the Oliver Sacks book looks interesting.  And generally an informative answer, thank you!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T07:37:04.393" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10351" PostId="7743" Text="Dynamic range in digital sensors is directly related to the signal to noise ratio. Amplifying the signal by 2 (1 stop EV) will for all intents and purposes halve the SNR (30dB SNR would be rated at 27dB after a doubling in ISO)." CreationDate="2011-01-27T09:46:54.830" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10352" PostId="7722" Score="1" Text="@jrista, the value of the DR number depends on the intended use. If you wish to compare sensors then a number, such as the one used by DXO, is appropriate because it is free of subjectivity. This is what DXO do so it is right for them. You are right in that we as photographers need different values. I avoid saturated whites in my photos and avoid the noise in deep blacks. So in effect I am getting a lower DR, but would my number agree with yours?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T10:24:08.017" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10353" PostId="7586" Text="He also shot in colour, but nobody was able to print it to his satisfaction so most of his shots remained unseen until recently. A book of them was published recently." CreationDate="2011-01-27T10:40:05.350" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="10354" PostId="7673" Text="As a newly minted grandfather I feel qualified to comment!! At 'a certain age' eyesight becomes a big problem. It is difficult to focus on the rear screen so one must pull out reading glasses, a big hassle. Bifocals are just as bad as one breaks ones neck by leaning the head back. An even bigger problem is the loss in visual acuity and glare resistance makes the rear screen very difficult to view in bright light. All in all, this grandfather finds that an optical viewfinder is essential to cope with his slowly declining eyesight. Otherwise I think this is a very good answer." CreationDate="2011-01-27T10:43:18.017" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10355" PostId="7689" Text="This is an incredibly vast subject, I'll try to keep on the topic.&#xA;&#xA;What you are referring in your last post are called &quot;accelerators&quot; (Nielsen, http://www.useit.com/papers/heuristic/heuristic_list.html - heuristic 7), shortcuts to commonly used tasks. Ideally, as mentioned by dr.Nielsen, these accelerators should be invisible to the novice user; i believe he's talking about key shortcuts, context menus, etc (think CTRL+S to save, context formatting menu in MSWord).&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-27T11:16:22.183" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10356" PostId="7643" Text="Yes, substantiality is important. But in the case of the OP this was a given, the entire work had been copied. So all that was left was to apply the tests of originality and transformativeness to see if the derivative work nevertheless qualified as fair use (and we agree it does not). So I think the answer was complete." CreationDate="2011-01-27T11:24:00.943" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10357" PostId="7689" Score="1" Text="I meant that findability is the ability to find a functionality that i know exists, on an unknown software: for example, contrast adjustment. On any photo processing software i may use, i assume the functionality is there, and the software's findability for it is the ease with wich i get to it.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Discoverability is more complicated: its the ease with which i get to the function WITHOUT necessarily knowing its name or effect. It's very difficult to get right for various expertise levels.&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;What i defend is that PS allowed me to discover several tools that gimp also has, but i never really knew." CreationDate="2011-01-27T11:34:37.567" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10358" PostId="7643" Text="@Reid, The LHOOQ-Mona Lisa example illustrates that substantial copying can nevertheless be fair use if original changes are made that are transformative" CreationDate="2011-01-27T11:48:40.610" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10361" PostId="7722" Text="labnut took the words out of my mouth, DXO-mark is about comparing sensors, not about saying &quot;this sensor can image 14 EV so I can take it to a scene with what I consider to be 14 stops range and just snap away&quot; I think measurable DR and subjective useable DR (after PP, see my next comment) probably correlate well so you can use the figures and adjust in your head if you prefer." CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:00:59.173" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10362" PostId="7722" Text="@jrista as you've stated you can increase the apparent DR by exposing to the right (btw if the lighting allows you to push the histogram further to the right that indicates the *scene* has lower DR, not the camera has more) which is why it can be useful to know the limits of detail that can be recorded so you know what you can pull out of the shadows in a pinch. The K5 JPEGs may have the similar DR as the 450D, but raw on the K5 lets you recover more detail in post, upping the DR of your final image. This info is revealed by DXO but might be missed by a subjective assessment of camera output. " CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:03:49.310" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10363" PostId="7746" Score="2" Text="I would advocate a tripod instead of a fast lens for this sort of project. &quot;Wide&quot; and &quot;fast&quot; don't really go together unless you invite their cousin &quot;really expensive&quot;... a slow wideangle and longer exposure should do the job more cheaply, I can't think why you'd want to limit depth of field in a wideangle shot." CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:16:26.387" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10364" PostId="7681" Text="Great answer.  Especially &quot;Other photographers will ... secretly judge you&quot; - LOL.  " CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:21:19.450" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10365" PostId="7748" Score="1" Text="@Dan, good question.  It would be very helpful if you could tell us the make/model of your camera, what lens you are using, and the shutter speed/aperture/ISO you are using.  It would be even better if you could also post an example image.  " CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:35:58.183" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10366" PostId="7744" Text="@Ken, I like your question.  Can you tell us where you plan to post the results?  " CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:39:34.543" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10367" PostId="7725" Score="2" Text="&quot;...not focus on ... expensive gear&quot; - Excellent!  :)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:50:06.823" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10368" PostId="7744" Score="1" Text="@AJ Finch, Will probably put them on flickr. I won't be starting the project until April when I'll have a bit more free time (and there's a bit more light at this latitude). I'll post a link here when I start to post." CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:54:10.737" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="10369" PostId="7748" Text="Concur; more info would be useful. Which camera, what lens, at what max aperture? Is she blurry due to subject movement or camera shake, or is she blurry because the camera couldn't lock focus, or because she moved out of the focus plane? If so, what autofocus mode did you use - continous or single-shot? Indoors or outdoors?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:56:37.333" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10370" PostId="7719" Text="Upvoted. This is a good question, and - let's face it - the backstory adds a certain something.  It's good because the answers will enrich the site and the community.  Also, I think people should be encouraged to share their personal experience - warts and all.  (Hmm, I wonder if the model in question is a member of this site?)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:56:38.750" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10371" PostId="7748" Text="Hi - I am using a Canon 50D with 17-55mm f2.8 lens.  Aperture set at f2.8 and shutter speed at 1/50. Keeping the ISO down to 200.  I must add that most of my photos are taken indoors and I hate using the inbuilt flash! " CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:58:36.880" UserId="3528" />
  <row Id="10372" PostId="7753" Score="5" Text="Nobody needs only ~30cm of gaffa. You know the old joke - if it moves and shouldn't, use the tape; if it doesn't and should, use the WD-40..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T13:59:19.033" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10373" PostId="7707" Text="Excellent point.  Often neglected in the search for a more &quot;technical&quot; solution.  +1" CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:04:25.030" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10374" PostId="7703" Text="Great point about posing.  I need to get better at that myself.  " CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:05:16.573" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10375" PostId="7675" Text="For a completely non-technical person I'd be careful advising them to use P mode.  It's far too easy for them to mess up some setting in the on-screen interface without realising what it does, and P mode ensures all settings are remembered for prosperity.  With the green Auto mode it's always going to go back to defaults when it turns on (except for image size - make sure that's set to Large and tell him not to mess with it)." CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:13:03.770" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10376" PostId="7675" Text="Good point about the batteries.  There certainly is a market for those use-once-and-throwaway Lithium AA batteries: people who use their camera twice a year." CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:14:33.003" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10377" PostId="7755" Score="1" Text="As far as I know the delay is there with all current IS systems. " CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:28:53.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10378" PostId="7755" Text="But IS *can* help at shorter focal lengths, even if it's not as important. " CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:30:56.213" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10379" PostId="7755" Text="Oh yes, it can help. Certainly. But for static subjects only, in my opinion, on the shorter focal lengths where camera shake is the least of your problems." CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:46:45.980" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10380" PostId="7748" Text="OK, thanks. Well, the 17-55 should easily be able to keep up with the subject, unlike a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 I had once which simply didn't focus fast enough (on a 1D, no less!) to keep up. f/2.8 does give limited depth of field; eqivalent to about f/4 on my full-frame camera... I try to go for f/8 where possible (f/5.6 to you) to have some DOF to play around with. 1/50 may easily be the culprit, for a child I would want to stay at 1/200 or faster. The little buggers are QUICK!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:50:01.343" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10381" PostId="7748" Text="200 ISO won't cut it indoors, BTW. Bump to 800 or even 1600, with a good exposure the image quality will be just fine, you can get a sufficiently fast shutter speed that way!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:51:10.237" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10382" PostId="7718" Text="adding 1/3ev  which we get by moving from nonstandard f/1.8 to standard f/2(-1/3ev)." CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:51:13.620" UserId="3475" />
  <row Id="10383" PostId="7748" Score="1" Text="The problem is your shutter speed of 1/50 isn't really fast. It's just about fast enough to avoid camera shake if you're still and composing your shots, but for tracking a moving subject like a child you should probably be at 1/200 or 1/320" CreationDate="2011-01-27T14:56:31.667" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10384" PostId="7756" Score="3" Text="+1 for child moving in and out of focus.  This is my #1 problem if I try to shoot picts of my 2 year old at a large aperture." CreationDate="2011-01-27T15:04:05.123" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10385" PostId="7748" Text="I talk about image stabilization in this answer: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/670/image-stabilization-in-aerial-photography/6084#6084. There is a good article all about VR (vibration reduction -- it's what Nikon calls canon's IS). Point number 4 in the article is &quot;If your subject is moving, you still need a shutter speed that will stop that movement.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-27T15:26:19.793" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10386" PostId="7748" Text="@Dan, you're shutter speed is simply too slow. Probably not more than that. If not broken, then the IS may be a problem when using a tripod or when you are Ironman himself." CreationDate="2011-01-27T15:37:25.267" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10387" PostId="7753" Text="@Staale S - LOL! Seriously now, if Gaffer's can keep its adhesion for extended period of times, then I need about that long to wrap around the flash head so I can safely stick stuff *to* that tape surface without leaving traces once removed." CreationDate="2011-01-27T15:39:31.490" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10388" PostId="7713" Text="Got it, and it's Done!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:09:00.870" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="10389" PostId="7769" Score="4" Text="It's crucial that the material not be subject to specular and direct reflections.  (Imagine the bad effect black plastic garbage bags could have. :-)  Velvet is often chosen for this reason, or at least something with a matte finish.  Lighting the background to keep any potential direct reflections out of the field of view helps, too.  Stan Rogers (in this thread) mentions some practical ways to keep such light off the background." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:44:49.963" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10390" PostId="7767" Text="See my comment to AJ Finch's response." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:45:16.263" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10391" PostId="7753" Score="1" Text="Well, seriously... for my flash I use the wide rubber band with Velcro on it approach to hold stuff in place. Something like this... (argh, hopeless URL; just google for the term &quot;flash velcro rubber band&quot; without quotes, the first one is a reference to a page with a Gary Fong whaletail setup which is the page I mean) It works well enough for me, though I haven't used it for anything heavy. Some quick googling did not look promising for you; &quot;Despite the claims they make about gaffer tape it will not stick very well in the cold and if you leave it on too long it will leave residue behind&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:45:59.933" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10392" PostId="7766" Text="+1.  That book covers the principles and the techniques explicitly in its chapter on black-on-black subjects (of which the dog is a fine example)." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:47:29.537" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10393" PostId="7753" Text="@Staale S - I do not stick very well in the cold either... but seeing where you are from, I'm sure you last far longer than any tape... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:48:06.967" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10394" PostId="7753" Text="@Staale S - BTW, if you make this an answer, I can rep you." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:49:13.580" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10395" PostId="7753" Text="If it's for (semi)permanent use, then don't worry about the kind of tape -- either lighter fluid or isopropyl alcohol will remove any residue (depending on the adhesive). (And yes, there are &quot;goo removers&quot; you can get if you really want to pay more than necessary.) Residue-free tape (and, frankly, gaffer's tape in general) is more about setting up for a shot in studio or on location than it is about Frankensteining equipment -- you want to be able to tear down cleanly when you're done." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:49:17.310" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10396" PostId="7756" Text="+1 for the same reason.  After all, if the shutter speed is fast, the aperture is probably wide, resulting in narrow depth of field.  *Lengthening* the exposure time to deepen the DoF might be the best cure, in which case IS will be helpful.  (Even when a kid seems to be moving fast, often most of them is pretty still: you can get photos with blurry hands, say, but the face can be quite clear.)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:52:01.387" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10397" PostId="7753" Text="@Stan Rogers - thanks, won't the alcohol leave marks on the black finish of the flash? I think I prefer some residue over ugly rubbing marks..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:53:14.280" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10398" PostId="7766" Score="1" Text="+1 That book is freaking amazing." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:53:21.190" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10400" PostId="7771" Text="+1 for background distance" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:54:40.643" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10401" PostId="7755" Text="+1 Good point.  However, this is a problem that appropriate technique can overcome.  On the Canons, and likely on other brands, IS keeps operating several seconds after it's activated.  When you're about to take a shot you can engage the IS (with a half-press of the shutter button) and keep it engaged until just the right moment." CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:54:55.967" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10402" PostId="7753" Text="I used (denatured) alcohol to get rid of some nasty-decade-old tape gunk from a well-loved EOS 1N I got a couple of years ago. Worked like a charm, it is now clean as a baby's bottom." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:00:54.773" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10403" PostId="7753" Text="Nope, not unless there's something seriously wrong with the plastic, or you're using a cloth that's sold in the abrasives department of the hardware store. Like anything else in life, let the tool do the work -- let the solvent dissolve the glue, and just wipe off the solution. A couple of goes and you'd never know there was ever anything there." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:01:32.540" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10404" PostId="7753" Text="It was electrian's tape by the way. The kind that leaves a really sticky mess behind when you rip it off." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:02:46.440" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10405" PostId="7766" Text="+1. If it isn't in the book, you don't need to know it." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:06:20.027" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10406" PostId="7753" Text="Thanks guys, that's helpful. However, there one method I have yet to try - a band from a mountain bike's tube. Hopefully it can stretch long enough to get on a 580EXII..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:07:09.900" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10407" PostId="7767" Score="1" Text="Subject-backdrop distance and the inverse square law is your friend!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:08:20.053" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10408" PostId="7771" Text="You mean, 3^2, not 2^3? so 9 x less light?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:21:30.137" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="10409" PostId="7712" Text="Wow... deep...." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:26:13.950" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="10410" PostId="7771" Text="@tom thanks, I meant to type &quot;9&quot; but missed the key by one!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:27:26.943" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10411" PostId="7773" Score="1" Text="As stated in the FAQ (http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq), videography is off topic here." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:32:11.197" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10412" PostId="7773" Score="1" Text="Hi Nick; thanks for joining the site.  Unfortunately your question is off-topic as this site is for photography as opposed to videography or broadcasting." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:33:07.030" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10413" PostId="844" Score="2" Text="@Reid.  Indeed, according to Wikipedia, a full frame sensor is 864 mm^2, while my D5000 has an area of 371.3 mm^2.  Since the probability a defect is proportional to sensor area, that means a full frame sensor is more than twice as likely to be a reject as my D5000's DX sensor (assuming rejects are by total dead pixel count).  Also, the manufacturing process should be able to put more than twice as many DX sensors on a single wafer.  Both of these points are physical reasons why DX will always be cheaper than FX." CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:47:36.630" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="10414" PostId="99" Text="I set my Canon 7D to cycle through single images with the wheel on the back and fast jump through &quot;day taken&quot; with the dial on the top. You can assign the wheels to different jump modes (10 pics forward, 100 pics forward, 1 day forward etc)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:03:56.167" UserId="2642" />
  <row Id="10415" PostId="7774" Score="3" Text="An example would help to help determine if it is a faulty camera or just a &quot;feature&quot; of the camera." CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:04:23.250" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10416" PostId="7775" Text="Feel free to edit my question in order to correct my english (I'm french)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:06:06.037" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="10417" PostId="7773" Text="You might want to check out this proposal for a video Q&amp;A site: http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:17:48.750" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10418" PostId="7774" Text="Agreed, if you could link to an example and provide specifics about the shot (shutter speed, aperture, etc) we can probably diagnose what might be going on..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:22:26.003" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10419" PostId="7745" Score="1" Text="Based on my experience with lighting gear, I think that the differences may lie in ease of use, durability, and practicality of solutions. While I may be able to make a lightstand from three wooden sticks and duct tape, when I need to set up lights and don't want to worry about it I really appreciate Interfit lightstands." CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:23:02.813" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10420" PostId="7749" Score="1" Text="I'm now sure how fast 2-year-old move, but I think that IS might be a problem when one's trying to frame a child chaotically running around. Not because of sharpness, but because IS works by compensating camera movements, which is not entirely what you wan't when you're tracking an eratically moving subject." CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:32:13.517" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10421" PostId="7377" Score="1" Text="Dreamhost also offers unlimited storage for &quot;web content&quot; on your plan. I have a simple (password protected) web gallery using [zen photo](http://www.zenphoto.org/) which lets you browse through the folders of photos. Lets me have all the photos as web content, so they aren't limited in space." CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:37:02.363" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="10422" PostId="7781" Text="Jay Maisel seems to be an interesting guy :) I'm sorry for this flat question unfortunately I need a list in order to notify quickly some more or less good photographers about their mistake, so I try to list the usual and obvious mistakes. I 'm aware myself that the photography is more than a list of error ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:37:26.577" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="10423" PostId="7745" Text="@che - This isn't a device attached to a light or to attach lights to. This would usually sit on a table, lights on either side, and/or above, and the product to shoot placed inside. ShutterBug linked some examples." CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:45:08.977" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10424" PostId="4461" Text="@jetxee there's pages of info about what the measurements mean and how they are taken, it's accessible from the &quot;learn more&quot; link right on the main page. See http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Learn-more/DxOMark-database/Measurements/Noise and http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Learn-more/DxOMark-database/Measurements/Light-transmission and http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Learn-more/DxOMark-database/Measurements/Resolution and http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Learn-more/DxOMark-database/Measurements/ISO-sensitivity + http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Learn-more/Glossary for starters" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:47:13.973" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10425" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista *&quot;DXO does not clearly state what that &quot;21.6 bits of information&quot; is&quot;* they do actually: **As with tonal range, color sensitivity is a number with no unit, so instead we consider Log2 CS, which represents the number of bits necessary to encode all distinguishable color values.** They also define distinct colours as ones where the difference between the colours exceeds the colour noise. Here's the relevant page: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/en/Learn-more/DxOMark-database/Measurements/Color-sensitivity " CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:56:38.127" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10426" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista *I am not sure where DXO states that you need to subtract 3 stops to get a real-world value for DR* they don't, I'm saying that your figures seem to differ by three stops. As everyone has their own definition of what &quot;usable&quot; DR is. But once you know how your own sense of DR differs you can use the DXO-mark figures to compare cameras and adjust your expectation of &quot;real world&quot; DR accordingly. " CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:04:42.970" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10427" PostId="7781" Text="Lens flare can definately help, depending. See http://www.pearsonartphoto.com/Professional/Pictures-for-sale/9827605_DAKdo#667895058_ZK3jq-A-LB for an example of where it can help." CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:05:38.907" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10428" PostId="4461" Text="@jrista *&quot;They state many times that they normalize all images to an 8mp image 'printed' on an 8x12 (20cm x 30cm) image at 300dpi. They also state that it is &quot;exactly&quot; 8mp, however an 8x12@300dpi print is 8.6mp (3600x2400)&quot;* you're misrepresenting what they say here, the exact quote from DXO is: **&quot;we chose a reference resolution equal to 8 Megapixels, which is a bit less than a 12&quot; x 8&quot; print with a 300dpi printer&quot;** you are correct that 12x8 300dpi is 8.6MP, but note the use of the words &quot;a bit less&quot;!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:10:16.490" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10429" PostId="4461" Text="...cont Resolution affects perception of noise, and normalization of variables not under investigation is absolutely standard as part of any scientific process. I'm at a loss as to why resampling images would invalidate the results, as this is exactly what a printer would do when given two images of different resolutions. Finally there is no one page which explains everything but all the information is there if you look for it." CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:14:36.513" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10430" PostId="7781" Text="That's why I wrote &quot;out of control lens flare&quot;. Is the term &quot;out of control&quot; incorrect ?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:19:00.440" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="10431" PostId="7786" Score="1" Text="That &quot;Trigger the flash at the correct time.&quot; is the kicker." CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:29:53.840" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10433" PostId="7778" Text="*This is something that should be avoided.*  Why so?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:46:51.187" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="10434" PostId="7786" Text="Noob question probably but why do you need a flash, rather than a constant light source such as a spotlight?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:50:32.727" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="10435" PostId="7785" Score="3" Text="The camera shutter speed is probably irrelevant. And, generally, HSS will do the opposite of what's wanted, won't it?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:56:32.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10436" PostId="7786" Score="5" Text="@Winston Smith - A low power flash burst is so fast, that the picture is only really exposed for an incredibly brief period of time (often much shorter than any shutter speed, like 1/30000th of a second) that the light &quot;freezes&quot; the action." CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:57:39.277" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10437" PostId="7786" Score="1" Text="@Winston: because a speedlight-style flash, especially at low power, emits a _very_ brief pulse of light which can freeze motion much more effectively than the shutter." CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:57:54.370" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10438" PostId="7786" Score="3" Text="@rfusca -- Jinx!" CreationDate="2011-01-27T19:58:27.833" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10439" PostId="7786" Text="Right, makes sense. So is an external flash required or will the built in one do? I was planning on trying some water drops tonight actually." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:02:24.520" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="10440" PostId="7749" Score="2" Text="IS can CAUSE blurring if the camera movement exceeds the IS's capabilities and it's trying to &quot;catch up&quot;.  It's intended to cancel out small motions, not large ones.  Note that in most camera manuals it is explicitly stated that you should have IS off for panning, and some cameras/lenses have settings to tell the IS system you're going to be panning, to compensate." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:02:44.810" UserId="492" />
  <row Id="10441" PostId="7722" Text="@labnut, matt: I understand the value of a scientifically accurate number for comparing one sensor to another, I have never refuted that. My point is that a lot of people on a lot of forums (particularly DPReview.com) refer to DXO DR numbers as if they directly reflect real-world performance. Even when using ETTR in the most extreme way, it is still very unlikely that you will get 14EV, or even 12EV, out of a camera that DXO gives a 14EV DR rating to. In general discussion, I think a more realistic, &quot;real-world&quot; number would be useful and more relevant to the average photographer." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:03:55.360" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10442" PostId="7786" Text="@Winston Smith - CHeck out one of our user's tutorials on it, I found it very helpful for water drops - http://www.grumpyjohns.com/?p=147.  I'm pretty sure you'll need an external, even if you could freeze (which I'm not sure you could), the on axis flash isn't likely to produce good results." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:06:02.933" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10443" PostId="7778" Score="1" Text="They are two important things to avoid and two important things to know in photographic composition. Avoiding to center your subject and avoiding to center your horizon. Be aware of the rule of third and be aware of the golden ratio. Once you know and understand that you can break the rules and your shots would always be great :)" CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:08:49.067" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="10444" PostId="7722" Text="Now, if someone can come up with a consistent, reasonably accurate test that can provide real-world photographers with a real-world idea of how much DR they can actually eek out of their camera, and how to maximize the actual realizable DR, I think that would be fantastic. You could then compare (with some degree of subjectivity), different cameras and have more realistic expectations. I think DPReview's approach to DR measurement generally provides this, as most of their DR numbers for top of the line DSLR's fall in the 8-9EV range, which seems like a realistic, real-world number." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:09:03.920" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10445" PostId="7775" Text="What do you mean by cutting? Cut off?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:10:18.257" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10446" PostId="143" Score="3" Text="HDR is not fake.  By definition, it is a more accurate capture of reality.  And while tone-mapping could be considered &quot;fake&quot;, pretty much every image you will see will have been tone mapped.  Applying a tone curve is tone mapping.  Lastly, local-operator tone-mapping is what most consider looking fake, but if done correctly, actually produces a response that is more realistic to the eye's constantly adjusting dynamic range as we scan an environment and our inherently logarithmic processing." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:19:02.487" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="10447" PostId="4714" Text="PaintShop Photo Pro is incredibly underrated -- not only does it come reasonably close to Photoshop in terms of overall capabilities, it is compatible with nearly all Photoshop plugins. And while it's not free, it is very reasonably priced (and often on sale at around the $50-70 dollar range at retailers). For Windows, it's a winner as a &quot;poor man's Photoshop&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:20:24.390" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10448" PostId="7783" Text="i've read such comments, also.&#xA;In theory, should be alright, but I was hoping for some real users of this kind of setup to enlighten me :\&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:25:01.277" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10449" PostId="7778" Score="1" Text="Centering a face in a close up portrait orientated photo is fine. Often the Golden Section will take care of making the photo look great. " CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:32:05.647" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10450" PostId="7789" Text="+1 for the thoughtful re-framing of the question." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:40:28.130" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10451" PostId="7784" Text="I've used my water drop technique for this as well, it just takes a lot more luck to get a good shot and it takes some good hand-eye coordination to drop and trigger. I suspect, however, that there are easier ways to do it without resorting to laser triggers, etc." CreationDate="2011-01-27T20:52:46.810" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10452" PostId="7784" Text="@John Cavan - Ya, I'm hoping for a technique somewhere between &quot;trial and error&quot; and laser trigger." CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:01:59.720" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10453" PostId="7785" Text="@mattdm - The shutter speed is irrelevant if you are shooting in a dark room and long exposure. It was very relevant for that image. For waterdrops, I wanted faster speed but could not get one." CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:22:48.687" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10454" PostId="7784" Text="@rfusca - as I mentioned in my answer, timing is less of a problem with your cookie than what seems in the first place." CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:25:28.060" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10455" PostId="7785" Text="Why &quot;the opposite&quot; anyway? You want to freeze motion, don't you?" CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:27:05.767" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10456" PostId="4461" Text="@Matt: Well, this is a bit of an old thread, so I'll skip past most things. My earliest and biggest beef with DXO was the simple fact that they were/are using a PRINT to measure SENSOR DR. Print DR is FAR less than sensor DR, and several degrees removed, so I don't see how they could possibly generate any useful information from a print that remotely represents the sensor that took the picture. &quot;Normalizing&quot; the image before printing is just another factor in separating the value of a print evaluation as a useful measure of sensor DR. " CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:31:33.760" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10457" PostId="4461" Text="@Matt: Hover over the &quot;Print&quot; button on this page: http://dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/483|0/(appareil2)/680|0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Canon/(brand2)/Nikon. &quot;This tab displays the print performance measurement values and graph derived from a RAW image after a normalization step that transforms all images, regardless of original resolution, to an 8Mpix image. The print size we have chosen is a standard 300dpi 8&quot;x12&quot; format, which corresponds to about the physical size of an 8Mpix image printed at 100% magnification.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:32:23.853" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10458" PostId="7789" Score="1" Text="+1 for your nice insights. I would like to note, though, the list of mistakes are intended, essentially, for novice photographers. It is a crutch for the beginner to be cast aside once he has learned to walk (photographically)." CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:32:36.400" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10459" PostId="7781" Text="Your first sentence reminds me of the aphorism 'there is nothing more terrible than activity without insight'" CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:34:57.943" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10460" PostId="7781" Text="There is no amount of lens flare that cannot be used to artistic effect in some image." CreationDate="2011-01-27T21:55:12.160" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="10461" PostId="7756" Text="-1 for 'generally safe to leave it on all the time.' This is not true *at all*. Feel free to check out: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6039/why-is-image-stabilisation-making-images-unsharp and other threads on photo.se.com for additional discussion on the topic..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T22:10:54.870" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10462" PostId="143" Score="1" Text="@Eruditass The eye is not that much more capable than a normal camera given the time you grant the camera, it needs also some minutes to make the chemical adaption to give you the big dynamic ranges. But! the brain makes the big difference you try to reflect with HDR-pictures: if you look at bright scenes, your eye will, like a camera, not be able to discern the dark parts anymore - but your brain replaces the noisy shadows with details you already have seen. Same with blownout highlights. People expect to see on a picture what they thought they saw in reality." CreationDate="2011-01-27T22:21:40.773" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10463" PostId="7785" Score="2" Text="Keep in mind if you're using a flash and you keep the ambient light low (relative to your exposure), the flash strobe speed is what is freezing your subject, not your shutter.  The shutter could be 1/15s but your flash is somewhere around 1/20,000s and thats what matters." CreationDate="2011-01-27T22:58:10.480" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10464" PostId="7377" Text="@Jon.Griffen: I like it.  Sounds like you're meeting their TOS by ensuring your photos can still be considered content for your website, rather than just a backup.  I don't really have that option for my original photos, since I shoot raw." CreationDate="2011-01-27T23:13:26.350" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="10465" PostId="7785" Text="@Shizam - When the flash fires in full strength, the length of exposure is far longer than 1/20Ks. So, I thought if I can get the camera to shoot at 1/8000 (yes, I know it is much faster than what's required for a drop), then the flash exposure is longer and the speed is set by the shutter. Anyway, the fact is that the 1/250s max sync speed + full power of the 380EX was too long for a good freeze of the water drop." CreationDate="2011-01-27T23:32:30.637" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10466" PostId="7785" Text="@ysap - so why not just *not* use full power?  Lower powers of flash are almost always faster..." CreationDate="2011-01-27T23:37:40.333" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10467" PostId="7785" Text="@rfusca - I could not do that with the 380EX b/c it has no manual mode. However, coming to think about it, in order to activate the HSS mode, it need to be connected to the hotshoe (supposedly with a long enough TTL cable) so FEC can be used to manually reduce the amount of light." CreationDate="2011-01-27T23:59:13.700" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10468" PostId="7785" Text="@ysap ah, that does make that more difficult." CreationDate="2011-01-28T00:03:27.223" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10469" PostId="7785" Text="@ysap thats true, at full power flash speed is way way slower." CreationDate="2011-01-28T00:06:05.283" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10470" PostId="7785" Score="1" Text="HSS is the opposite because it strops the flash multiple very, very rapidly times in order to simulate a longer-duration (effectively continuous) light source. That's what I mean by &quot;the opposite&quot; of freezing motion." CreationDate="2011-01-28T00:24:14.473" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10471" PostId="7785" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - I see what you mean, but on the other hand, it is what let you use shutter speeds faster than 1/250. See the couple of comments above." CreationDate="2011-01-28T00:27:58.030" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10472" PostId="7786" Text="+1 for the Arduino. If you've got a bit of electronics skill, a bit of programming skill and a Mac, it's almost trivially easy to set up an Arduino-controlled/laser-triggered flash." CreationDate="2011-01-28T01:44:35.217" UserId="679" />
  <row Id="10474" PostId="7797" Score="1" Text="Do you want to rotoscope the image, or do you want it automatically coverted to a line drawing?" CreationDate="2011-01-28T02:04:16.213" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10475" PostId="6515" Text="Alternatively, you can use ND filters to control the amount of light as well." CreationDate="2011-01-28T02:24:36.733" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="10476" PostId="7798" Score="3" Text="The trace-bitmap option in Inkscape (sneakily hidden as the third option in the Path menu) is based on potrace, and may present an easier way to work. http://inkscape.org/" CreationDate="2011-01-28T02:31:11.100" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10477" PostId="7798" Score="2" Text="Also, this entry from the potrace FAQ is worth repeating: &quot;If it conjurs up mental images of people running around a track with cooking pots, then you are not pronouncing it correctly.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-28T02:33:07.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10478" PostId="7690" Text="Thanks Itai.  I'm actually looking for some prints of Landscapes in either Paris/New York/Burgundy (France).  If you know of any quality pieces in this subject that I'd love to hear of them." CreationDate="2011-01-28T03:20:28.743" UserId="3415" />
  <row Id="10479" PostId="7785" Text="So, I'm looking at the manual for the Metz 58 AF-2. (To my knowledge, Canon doesn't publish these numbers, which is why I'm looking at Metz.) At a normal-lens field of view using HSS, the maximum guide number is 19. This corresponds to somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8th power. If you'd just put the flash at that level, you'd get a T.1 flash duration of around 1/2000th of a second." CreationDate="2011-01-28T03:38:08.307" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10480" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text="Hang on... It seems like there would be additional variables to consider, right? I would have said that their exposures wouldn't necessarily be the 'same' unless both cameras were using the exactly the same lens. Is my logic flawed there?" CreationDate="2011-01-28T03:40:13.743" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10481" PostId="7785" Text="And, crucially, HSS power decreases even more as you shorten the shutter speed — every 4× increase in shutter speed halves the GN. So, by the time you're at a 1/2000th shutter speed, you're getting an effective GN of around 7 from HSS. But a reduced-power non-HSS flash of that level has a duration of around 1/10,000th of a second. And, if you could get your shutter speed that high, HSS would be reduced to a GN of about 3 — and at that point you might as well just go for 1/256th flash power and a T.1 duration of 1/33,000 (i.e. 30 microseconds). So I'm just not seeing HSS as a winning approach." CreationDate="2011-01-28T03:51:33.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10482" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text="As long as the f-numbers are the same between lenses, and ignoring things like manufacturer tolerances and actual-transmission factors, it will be exactly the same. At the same shutter speed and iso, f/2.8 on my iphone will give the same exposure as f/2.8 on a 4×5-format camera. Even though the latter has over 800× the surface area. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:02:37.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10483" PostId="6265" Text="21.2 megapixel :P Someone had to say it." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:15:50.843" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10484" PostId="7802" Text="This is a fine answer as answers go, but I think it's the answer to a different question — the question is about sensor size, not focal length, which is a whole separate thing." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:16:34.097" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10485" PostId="7802" Text="And actually, as I re-read, the part that is relevant at the end is, well, exactly wrong. The amount of light that the P&amp;S sensor gets is just the same as what the equivalent area of a full-frame sensor gets, so amplification is exactly the same. Smaller sensors are noisier because 1) more electronics get packed in a much smaller area and 2) to make a print of the same size, you have to enlarge more (although one doesn't generally think of it that way when working with files) — not because they get less exposure." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:22:13.837" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10486" PostId="7802" Text="That is true. I'll clarify that." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:24:14.783" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10487" PostId="7801" Text="Well sure, but 'actual transmission factors' isn't necessarily a minor component of the equation. It isn't really optional either. :-) My 50mm prime will consistently meter at 2/3 of a stop over the equivalent focal length on my 24-70mm with exposure, f-stop and ISO being the same... My 24-70mm will meter at 1/3 of a stop over my 70-200mm at 70mm, everything else being equal... and that's not even comparing across brands..." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:28:03.437" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10488" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text="But that's an individual lens thing, not a format issue. It could well be that the micro 4/3rds lens being compared error on the side of brighter. For the purposes of the answer to the question, assume that all cows are spherical...." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:34:19.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10489" PostId="7801" Text="Spoken like a mathematician. ;-) 'Theoretical' is great and makes for convenient conclusions, but in the real world where cows aren't spherical and cameras require lenses to focus an image on the sensors, two different cameras will not necessarily produce the same exposure with equivalent settings. It seems like the more *useful* answer would take in to consideration the fact that in the scenario presented the two cameras would likely have different lenses on them, and thus the exposure at the sensor would not necessarily be the same..." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:45:15.077" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10490" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text=":) But, again, the question is if the sensor format makes a difference, and the _useful_ answer is that it doesn't." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:51:01.460" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10491" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text="If it helps, though, imagine that you *are* using the exact same lens with simple glassless adapter on micro four thirds. Because that's something that people do in the real world too." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:52:00.907" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10492" PostId="7801" Text="Actually, the question is: &quot;Will the exposure be the same across both *cameras* despite the different sensor sizes?&quot; not &quot;will the exposure be the same across both sensor sizes.&quot; It won't be different because of the sensor size, but it likely *will* be different due to other material (and unavoidable) differences in the cameras." CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:56:55.987" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10493" PostId="7801" Text="It seems like your answer is grounded in the theoretical, but I don't think the OP's question was a theoretical one. Given the 'real world' scenario of putting two cameras up against one another pointed at the same scene, and using the same settings, unless those cameras are identical, it isn't a given that identical settings give identical results. Just sayin'... :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T04:59:50.710" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10494" PostId="7802" Text="@Nick Bedford - In your *edit* part, &quot;...hitting each pixel is greater&quot; should be **smaller**. In &quot;...ratio of noise to signal is considerably less&quot; should be **more**. The SNR is higher in larger pixel sizes (larger sensors, same resolution)." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:00:49.743" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10495" PostId="7785" Text="@mattdm - it may not be a winning approach if you can manually set your flash power. If you're stuck at full power, then it may. Anyway, as I mentioned, working in HSS anyway requires a ETTL connection which means the power can be controlled manually - regardless of the inherent reduction of the HSS mode. I guess the point is that with HSS, I am controlling exactly the duration of the exposure, while otherwise I am limited to whatever the flash is capable to deliver." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:06:25.137" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10496" PostId="7802" Text="Thanks for that! Can't believe I got the words round the wrong way." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:07:33.183" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10497" PostId="7785" Text="We probably can conclude that it is a case were the same outcome can be pretty much achieved in several ways. Considering all the factors that come into the play, HSS might give a slightly more control over the process, but for any reasonable setup, a reduced power manual flash with longer shutter speed can give an equivalent result." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:11:51.230" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10498" PostId="7801" Text="Without knowing T values for the specific lens/body combinations, the question can only be answered in the theoretical. The best real answer you can hope for is &quot;approximately, but there'll be an *approximately* constant offset of up to about 1 stop between any two camera/lens combinations&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:16:49.157" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="10499" PostId="7785" Text="Yeah, like you say, I'm having a hard time envisioning a situation where you have HSS but no control over output level. With manual flash levels, you're controlling exactly the duration of the exposure too. It'd just be helpful if Canon (or Pentax!) would bother to tell us what that duration is! Nikon and Metz are awesome here." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:21:08.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10500" PostId="7798" Text="+1 Thanks. Just a static image would be fine (I can resize it if I want to), vectorizing is overkill for me" CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:21:15.293" UserId="3005" />
  <row Id="10501" PostId="7785" Score="1" Text="And, I still don't think it's an equivalent result — manual power gives you more light _and_ the possibility of much shorter durations. That gives you *more* flexibility — *more* control over the process. Plus, since the cutoff is electronic rather than actual physical motion, I suspect that the variation shot-to-shot is much smaller, allowing more consistently-repeatable results (but I have no reference to back this up)." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:27:28.853" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10502" PostId="7756" Score="1" Text="Jay I would argue those problems are all with the poor implementation of IS on specific cameras.  A properly implemented IS system, in my book, should not take a shot while the IS system hasn't properly initialised (how easy would it be to add a while(isnotready) { wait(); }?), and should disable IS automatically when you are using very high shutter speeds (1/500 and faster).  If for whatever reason your camera doesn't do that, then you should indeed take matters into your own hands and disable IS in those circumstances.  But I would say that's a poorly thought out implementation of IS." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:30:36.643" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10503" PostId="7555" Text="Yes you can often go higher than 1 stop as long as no single colour channel clips.  I've never seen this give an effective 3 or 4 or 5 stops though - but would depend on your colour balance and what you're photographing I guess." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:35:31.160" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10504" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text="I'm a sysadmin, so I'm hands-on in the real-world side of things, not a theorist. :) But I disagree with you here. The entire point of having standardized stops is so exposure can be compared regardless of particular equipment. You can buy a light meter that tells you that for a given shutter speed and ISO, set your aperture to f/X. That value is correct for any format, and that's important! The fact that individual equipment might vary from the standard is also useful, practical knowledge, but it's not helpful to just throw your hands in the air and say &quot;it's all different so you can't tell!&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:37:01.460" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10505" PostId="7785" Text="@mattdm - **If** you have manual mode! The 380EX doesn't. As for your last point, one can argue that although the cutoff is electronic vs mechanical motion of the shutter blades, the assumption is that the variance in exposure times for a 1/8000s Tv should be fairly smaller than 1/8000s, otherwise it makes this settings somewhat meaningless. Additionally, I think the actual light emission duration from the flash is also varying depending on ambient temperature, etc." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:41:47.960" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10506" PostId="7804" Score="2" Text="To add to all this t-stop discussion: there's no inherent reason that a full-frame lens would have a higher or lower t-stop relative to the f-stop than the equivalent micro-four-thirds (or other) lens would. That's literally a completely separate factor from sensor size." CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:43:10.153" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10507" PostId="7801" Text="Yes, but it's not an absolute standard in terms of *measurement*, only in terms of *nomenclature*. My Sekonic meter even gives me the ability to set custom exposure profiles for each camera because (from their literature) &quot;since no two digital cameras and light meters are likely to agree on the same exposure, your meter needs to be calibrated to your camera in order for the meter to give you the most accurate readings possible.&quot; All that said, it's been an interesting discussion and I can certainly see your side of the argument... We may just have to agree to disagree on this one. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T05:59:42.063" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10508" PostId="7785" Score="1" Text="@ysap, okay, I can see that in that case — and in fairness you did say a couple of comments up that this flash has no manual mode. :) But I think that's a really special case. Hmmm, but apparently the Canon 270EX is in the same boat. (The 430EX is okay, though.)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:00:58.877" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10509" PostId="7801" Text="Fair enough. Have a good night. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:02:21.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10510" PostId="7785" Text="@mattdm - thankfully, since playing with waterdrops I have upgraded about all of my equipment and now I have a 580EXII. I just did not have enough mental powers to setup everything once again and try it out. That said, the lemon shot was actually taken with my new equipment, but in a very lit environment (my kitchen in the summer afternoon), so in this case, the flash was not the only light source contributing to the exposure, but luckily, 1/250s was short enough for freezing that lemon piece (after the deceleration from the impact)." CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:06:10.390" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10511" PostId="7801" Text="Or... MMA cage match fight to the death? Two men enter... One man leaves? Hmmm... On second thought, maybe not. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:07:22.180" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10512" PostId="7804" Text="Yes.  Whether the same lens is used was not specified.  It is indeed only relevant if you are also talking different lenses; it's not tied to sensor size." CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:10:13.543" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10513" PostId="7802" Text="Imagine you use the _same_ size photosite &quot;buckets&quot; in a P&amp;S and in a dSLR. Take 12m little buckets and make a point &amp; shoot sensor. Then take 272m buckets of the same size and make a (very high resolution!) full-frame sensor. Now, take an exposure by dumping metaphorical water on each scene. You'll need a lot more water to cover the &quot;full-frame&quot; field of buckets — this is your larger image circle — but the _depth_ of water will be the same. Even though you've got the same small buckets, you've got a lot more data to work with, and therefore better SNR. " CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:16:45.467" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10514" PostId="7783" Text="Also it may be subjective - for example in the comments to one particular adapter some people are perfectly happy with it, while other think it's horrible." CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:41:07.623" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="10515" PostId="7756" Text="Back here in the real world... ;-) I'll refer you to Nikon shooter and photography author Thom Hogan, who has this to say about the 'should I leave IS on all the time&quot; quesiton: &quot;All stabilization systems have a 'sampling and correction frequency.' On the Nikon VR systems, for instance, that frequency is a bit above 1/500, which is why I've long recommended that you turn VR off at 1/500 and above.&#xA;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:41:53.557" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10516" PostId="7756" Text="&quot;As you get shutter speeds closer to the sampling frequency, you start to run into what I call 'stutter' problems. Basically, the system is still correcting for a -XY movement when a +XY movement is now needed, but the sampling/movement frequency isn't fast enough to compensate in time for the shutter speed (or only partially compensates).&#xA;&#xA;&quot;What the frequency is on the Micro 4/3 bodies is I don't know, but it seems lower than on the Canon/Nikon in-lens systems.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:42:54.210" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10517" PostId="7756" Text="&quot;Makers promote stabilization as a marketing checklist item. Users interpret that as meaning 'always use it.' Just the opposite. Stabilization should never be on unless you know you need it and know it will be effective.&quot; Bottom line is that this isn't something that's limited to 'a few off brands.' Essentially we're talking about a problem that (at least right now) effects IS 'in general.' Thus, my original assertion." CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:45:49.263" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10518" PostId="7756" Text="The link to Thom's comment and the article the comment came from can be found here: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/04/oddities-of-image-stabilization.html" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:46:57.640" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10519" PostId="7805" Score="2" Text="However if infinity focus is not needed (for example for macro lens) then M42 lenses are perfectly usable with lensless adapters." CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:51:32.590" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="10520" PostId="7786" Text="I've updated the answer the emphasize the low power flash. Thanks for rfusca for pointing out." CreationDate="2011-01-28T07:23:17.637" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="10521" PostId="7780" Score="2" Text="While there are some deals to be had in the M42 space, consider looking for an older Nikkor lens. A 300/4.5 AI-s won't meter on the D3100 but it won't need an adapter, and the aperture will function correctly. I really doubt you can get a M42 lens of the same specs very much cheaply." CreationDate="2011-01-28T08:45:43.397" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="10522" PostId="7795" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2078/21" CreationDate="2011-01-28T09:01:24.907" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10523" PostId="7770" Text="Thanks for your answer! I'll probably take the Canon then. From what I've heard its AF is really good. In all the confusion, this seems to be a clear fact :-) " CreationDate="2011-01-28T10:03:58.980" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10524" PostId="7805" Text="thomasrutter: i thought about getting a 4/3 body precisely for that, but i wanted a dslr for that extra punch of IQ...i already had a pretty good compact camera." CreationDate="2011-01-28T10:19:33.617" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10525" PostId="7805" Text="actually, i'm probably gonna experiment anyway..50-100€ for a 300/400 prime lens is quite an interesting bargain!" CreationDate="2011-01-28T10:21:41.290" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10526" PostId="7809" Score="2" Text="Actually, in my particular case the reviews say the 1.8 lens focuses much better than the 1.4.. The aperture may be part of it, but obviously not the only/main factor." CreationDate="2011-01-28T11:16:56.023" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10527" PostId="7810" Text="Obviously, this is assuming you know what each autofocus mode of your camera does, and are using it correctly. The camera manual is your best friend!" CreationDate="2011-01-28T12:00:46.463" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10528" PostId="7805" Text="Can you please post your results here as answer? Because i also have D3100 and was considering getting M42 lens :) " CreationDate="2011-01-28T12:32:39.480" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="10529" PostId="7812" Text="The link is to a highly technical article that is less about photography than about algorithms used in photo manipulation software. I'd say this was off-topic." CreationDate="2011-01-28T12:57:56.230" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="10531" PostId="7812" Score="2" Text="Might be. But resizing is part of my picture-processing. I often batch-resize pictures before giving them out and wonder if this gamma-error a negative impact on them I did not really notice until now. (edit: I even resize for first evaluation, as my screen is only 1920x1080 and I like to evaluate full-picture instead of 100% zoom. So first sorting of pictures itself is impacted.)&#xA;If the author is right, I'd better have a look into finding alternative SW." CreationDate="2011-01-28T13:21:01.550" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10532" PostId="7780" Score="1" Text="Beyond &quot;not that bad&quot;, there are quite a few truly excellent M42 lenses - Super Takumar and Super Multicoated Takumar being two such labels." CreationDate="2011-01-28T13:57:04.703" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10533" PostId="7811" Text="I think this (mechanics) is the actual answer to the original question. As for the prime vs zoom, when I received my EOS 7D, I tried MFA on the 50/1.4 lens. I reached the max +10 settings to get it barely accurate, while my other, zoom lenses seem to focus much more accurately." CreationDate="2011-01-28T13:59:27.367" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10534" PostId="7811" Text="Another advantage of a prime lens in this regard: for zoom lenses, the error is often different depending on focal length (front-focus at short lengths, back-focus at long lengths, for example.) Camera bodies which allow adjustment on a per-lens basis don't (at least as far as I know as of 2011) allow for multiple settings per lens, so with a zoom you have to pick a compromise, whereas with a prime you can get it just right. (At least, if unlike @ysap's lens it's within the range of the adjustment!)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:19:14.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10535" PostId="7809" Score="1" Text="Also, ultrasonic does not necessarily mean faster. On Pentax, the &quot;SDM&quot; lenses are much slower to focus than the small screw-drive-focus Limited lenses." CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:20:19.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10536" PostId="7785" Text="@ysap — I'm curious; does the EXIF data for the picture show what power the flash was fired at?" CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:22:34.383" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10537" PostId="7810" Text="Well, one thing that is impossible to accomplish with an in-camera motor is the ring-type ultrasonic motor used in recent better lenses which is silent and very fast. It's hard to blame anyone here. When Nikon thought up its lens mount that wasn't foreseeable and it definitely made the lenses cheaper since they didn't have to include as much electronics and the motor." CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:50:37.903" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="10538" PostId="7813" Text="Interesting option to find a SW that scales (interpolates) the non-corrected RAW (more/again) to the sizes I use and applies the gamma later." CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:51:04.157" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10539" PostId="561" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/471/ for RAW editing software under Linux (which, in general, means cross-platform software that one can also build or get built for anywhere you can run Gimp.)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T15:05:48.653" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10541" PostId="7689" Score="1" Text="I'm not necessarily talking about accelerators in specific. The daily-use over discoverability mentality can apply to user interface design _throughout_, not just shortcuts." CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:35:08.450" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10542" PostId="7696" Text="Wow such great info but I'm getting a bit overwhelmed. This should be a separate question, but what does the 100mm refer to, and the f rating?  (I haven't looked at these numbers in 20 years)    I was looking at the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens. It's just $119, but they have another 50mm lens that f/2.8.  It cost $400. I guess it captures more light? And I'm not sure whether to go with a 50mm or 60mm or 70mm?   I think the smaller mm they are the closer you can get? But I also take it that they would all be good for artwork because of the fine flat construction of the macro lenses? " CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:36:35.437" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="10543" PostId="7689" Score="1" Text="Your point about learning things that you _could_ do is an interesting one, though. I think that could be improved in both Gimp and Photoshop. In some ways, it can be solved simply through _good documentation_, but it's always best when that isn't even needed." CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:40:06.010" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10544" PostId="7816" Score="1" Text="+1, I'm upgraded to LR3 mostly for that, the new lens distortion correction modules. Really helpful for my 16-35mm on a full-frame." CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:47:51.477" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="10545" PostId="7800" Score="1" Text="You've good answers but I'd like to point out something you may find interesting. Even though you can get two pictures with the same exposure, they may not look the same due to different dynamic-ranges. You can have one camera with 9 stop DR and the other with 14 stops now. By squeezing 9 OR 14 stops of DR into a medium of fixed DR (such as an LCD display or print), the tonalities you see won't be the same." CreationDate="2011-01-28T19:10:22.577" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10546" PostId="7813" Text="@Leonidas - it looks like in the article you provided there is a list (albeit an old one) of &quot;correct&quot; software: http://www.4p8.com/eric.brasseur/gamma.html?#solutions" CreationDate="2011-01-28T19:11:03.807" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10547" PostId="7745" Text="@John: I'm aware of the differences between a lightstand and a light tent :-) I was just sharing my experience with variously priced photo gear." CreationDate="2011-01-28T19:30:59.297" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="10548" PostId="7801" Score="1" Text="Thanks Matt, you directly answered my real question, which is &quot;Can I get a larger depth of field with a smaller sensor camera without sacrifing low-light performance?&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-28T19:43:57.030" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="10549" PostId="7812" Score="1" Text="This article is awesome!" CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:13:06.920" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10550" PostId="7813" Text="Yes, there is. Today I already used the first, pamscale readily available with Linux/cygwin. I overlooked that RawTherapee is part of the list - that might implement the solution you suggest.&#xA;But: question remains if there really is this problem on doing rescale on JPG. I do not have photos like his example from the bugs eyes readily available to test the idea." CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:26:51.993" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10551" PostId="7823" Score="1" Text="I walk to work for this reason..." CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:39:34.993" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10552" PostId="7823" Score="4" Text="This could be interesting discussion, but I don't think there's really an answerable question here. (Other than &quot;me too!&quot;)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:39:52.590" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10553" PostId="7813" Text="@Leonidas - I guess you can download the sample images from the article and use it in whatever processor you use to test for correctness. Also note that the solution I suggested is one possible approach, and is relevant only when you have a RAW processor (LightRoom is in the list, so maybe it is an OK software?). What the writer seems to do (I did not read the whole of it yet) is first do the inverse gamma transform (effectively returning to the linear RAW space), interpolate and last gamma transform again." CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:50:00.447" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10554" PostId="7823" Score="1" Text="This isn't really an appropriate question as worded. There's not answer, its a survey." CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:55:29.413" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10556" PostId="7813" Text="What do you mean &quot;if he is right&quot;? Mathematically? Sure he is! About the setup? Well, this is up to you to check." CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:14:23.623" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10557" PostId="7813" Text="Yeah, I used the Dalai Lama-picture. And my main software for fast sorting (XnView) fails and the inverse-gamma-transformation seems not to work too well. But there are such things as bad setups - I'd really like to know if the author really is right (and not only right for a neglectable portions of pictures) before I abandon my workflow :) [PS: Sorry, I edited my comment too often ...]" CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:15:08.583" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10558" PostId="7830" Score="2" Text="Does this mean that, for example, if I take a wide angle lens and crop out a very small portion of it in the center, it will have the same field of view as a telephoto lens, but not the same perspective?" CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:21:26.017" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="10559" PostId="7830" Score="7" Text="Unless you physically move, that center portion will even have the same perspective! Zooming and cropping are practically interchangeable, except that of course cropping loses resolution. This is how the &quot;digital zoom&quot; offered by many point &amp; shoot cameras works — they just crop." CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:25:40.037" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10560" PostId="7830" Score="3" Text="Different focal lengths give different perspective simply because to make an object the same size you have to stand at a different place. To fill the frame with an object with a wide angle lens, you have to be very close, emphasizing the effect of perspective." CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:28:12.327" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10561" PostId="7745" Text="@che - Ah! Gotcha... :)" CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:42:25.673" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10562" PostId="7830" Text="So does this mean that, assuming you only need a 640x480 image for web use and you have a camera and lens with sufficient megapixels and resolving power, you can potentially turn a 50mm into a 200mm simply by cropping the center?" CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:46:03.430" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="10563" PostId="7830" Text="Effectively, yep. " CreationDate="2011-01-28T21:50:00.143" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10564" PostId="7819" Text="No insult intended, but that first one should get you banned from posting for at least a week! I'd add a smiley, but I'm almost serious. Geeze that's nasty." CreationDate="2011-01-28T22:23:08.480" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10565" PostId="7823" Text="Yeah, should probably be CW, or at least reworded to be &quot;How do you overcome...&quot;" CreationDate="2011-01-28T22:34:30.920" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10566" PostId="7830" Text="Thanks Matt, you've been very helpful :)." CreationDate="2011-01-28T23:18:49.523" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="10568" PostId="7076" Score="1" Text="I'm a strong inclusionist, but here I agree with @mattdm - off-topic. @John, I think your best course of action is to go find some reviews. For a camera like this you'll have several reputable review sites to choose from, I'm sure." CreationDate="2011-01-28T23:50:07.000" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10569" PostId="7837" Text="I've flagged this to be made community-wiki" CreationDate="2011-01-28T23:52:31.397" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10570" PostId="1746" Text="Ha! Didn't realize I had acquired such a reputation. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T00:07:49.077" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10571" PostId="7830" Score="1" Text="Perspective is dictated by camera-subject distance, and only by camera-subject distance. Wide-angle lenses invite you to move closer to the subject, tele lenses invite you to move further back. This movement will affect perspective but is not something that is inherent to the focal lengths as such, it is an indirect effect." CreationDate="2011-01-29T00:38:16.427" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10572" PostId="7809" Text="Try a Canon 85mm f/1.2L, mark I. You will never confuse 'USM' with 'fast' again, ever. It is positively glacial. It is still a magical lens, of course :)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T00:42:17.840" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10573" PostId="7841" Text="Indeed about things turning the opposite way. Thank god you can reverse the light-meter dial! IIRC, you cannot reverse its display though, so you turn one way and the indicator goes the opposite! It gets worst if you you third-party lenses since they are manufacturer to turn the same way on all cameras. So you may end up with one lens which turns the opposite way as other ones you have!" CreationDate="2011-01-29T00:58:44.070" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10575" PostId="7837" Text="Welcome to the light. ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T01:22:48.463" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10576" PostId="7689" Text="I get your point. The heuristic is a bit specific, and my example wasn't the best; accelerators don't need to be shortcuts, better positioning in menus and items more frequently used on a higher level in the menu hierarchy are other examples. Basically, what you mentioned: daily-use stuff more readily available. This is hell to get &quot;right&quot; the more heterogeneous is your user base. Hence my great great kudos to Adobe. Which they really don't need, given how popular photoshop is." CreationDate="2011-01-29T02:07:34.580" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10577" PostId="7689" Text="As for your last comment, i couln't find the quote, but i think dr Nielsen or some other guy said: Ideally (with perfect usability) a user should be able to pick up any piece of software and be immediately proficient with it. :P" CreationDate="2011-01-29T02:11:58.427" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10578" PostId="6294" Text="Won't any of those approaches damage the chromed finish and expose the inside metal to &quot;invite&quot; more rust? This is probably a nice follow up: How to protect the recently cleaned surface? anti-rust paint? i've only seen it used in fences and gates xD" CreationDate="2011-01-29T02:24:45.317" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10579" PostId="7845" Text="+1 - Thats neat!" CreationDate="2011-01-29T03:02:10.157" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10580" PostId="7845" Text="My python bias is showing in my answer, by the way. If you just want to do it with C, tada: http://opencv.willowgarage.com/wiki/FaceDetection" CreationDate="2011-01-29T03:08:23.983" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10581" PostId="7841" Text="Thanks for the info.  I'm actually looking at the 80-200/2.8 as one of my potential purposes but the good news is that they've updated it and the current model (which also is a turn-to-zoom instead of push-pull) has a good AF system." CreationDate="2011-01-29T04:48:46.233" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10582" PostId="6294" Text="Perhaps it would if you were using these methods on a chromed finish, but if you read the question the OP is talking about rust on the lens mount, which is not a chromed surface simply because the metal-to-metal contact of attaching and detaching a lens would rub away a chrome finish in short order." CreationDate="2011-01-29T07:06:18.990" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10583" PostId="7841" Score="1" Text="Just like Canon, Nikon has some awesome lenses, especially when you get into the pro-quality ones. The twist-the-opposite-way-to-zoom thing is something you'll want to practice with if you have any critical/commercial work coming up shortly after converting. I had been shooting Nikon, and switched to my wife's Canon while mine was being repaired. I had a few hours to reacquaint myself and lost some shots in the heat of the moment when I zoomed the wrong way. A similar, but opposite problem happened a year later when I had a mechanical problem and had to temporarily go back to Nikon. " CreationDate="2011-01-29T07:17:30.447" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10584" PostId="3191" Text="They did have working prototypes, but didn't make it to market. " CreationDate="2011-01-29T07:20:32.680" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10585" PostId="7823" Text="It would be better posed as a discussion on the [site's chat room](http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/14)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T08:02:14.417" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10586" PostId="7845" Text="Wow, this is incredible. thank you. Do you know of any libraries in c# though?" CreationDate="2011-01-29T08:33:03.143" UserId="3566" />
  <row Id="10587" PostId="7715" Score="4" Text="@AskQuestionsLater I'm curious. What exactly do you mean by this? Can you post an example picture or two?" CreationDate="2011-01-29T08:38:48.177" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10588" PostId="7732" Text="+1 for emphasizing practice. Taking a training class with a professional model and professional photographer to impart advice might not hurt, either." CreationDate="2011-01-29T08:51:31.843" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10589" PostId="7730" Score="2" Text="In post-processing it's actually better to do WB with grey instead of white - white may be overexposed, thus containing no information that could improve the WB." CreationDate="2011-01-29T09:38:13.420" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10590" PostId="1697" Text="On Nikon lenses with this feature the Auto/Manual switch is labelled M and M/A to indicate you can manually adjust focus whilst in autofocus modes just by turning the focus ring." CreationDate="2011-01-29T09:43:25.397" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="10591" PostId="7851" Text="But if you are using IS + tripod, you must *remember* that you are using IS. Even if you are using manual focus and manual exposure, you can't just quickly press the shutter button at the right moment. You must first half-press the button; then you must wait a bit (one second? two?) until the IS does its tricks and finally detects that you are on a tripod; and only after that you can take the picture. If you shoot with IS + tripod but think that you are shooting without IS, you may fairly easily ruin your pictures if you are too quick." CreationDate="2011-01-29T11:06:32.843" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="10592" PostId="7841" Score="1" Text="Itai; too true about third-party lenses. I had an otherwise excellent EF-mount Tamron 28-75/2.8 back in the day; a great lens in very many respects but with &quot;arsy-versy&quot; zoom and focus rings. " CreationDate="2011-01-29T11:14:38.867" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10593" PostId="7838" Text="I don't agree on it being smaller, Nikon has an ungodly lens array and unlike Canon thirty-year old manual-focus stuff will happily mount on the newest camera bodies. However, compared to Canon they are latecomers to USM focus motors and stabilized lenses, which means that if you want this you have to buy a relatively new lens even if you buy used. On Canon you can buy decade-old, secondhand stuff that has this and it is of course much cheaper. (I've pursued a policy of getting an array of used pro lenses instead of new consumer lenses, and it has worked for me.)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T11:19:31.447" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10594" PostId="7775" Text="Maybe &quot;crop&quot; is a more appropriate word... feel free to change that :)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T11:35:44.507" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="10595" PostId="7778" Text="Even in portrait photography centering the face is not considered as the right way.I add this interesting article from Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headroom_(photographic_framing)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T11:43:20.833" UserId="2449" />
  <row Id="10596" PostId="7853" Text="I noticed this, too, when trying out the Sigma today. However, I always found manual focus pretty hard to get right with my viewfinder. I guess to solve this problem I need a different body." CreationDate="2011-01-29T12:54:43.400" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10597" PostId="7849" Score="1" Text="AFAIK, Canon's **optical** IS works just the same for P&amp;S as for SLR's. Most, if not all of Canon's P&amp;S &quot;IS&quot; models are optical." CreationDate="2011-01-29T12:55:39.880" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10598" PostId="7840" Text="[Here's a review of that solution at DPReview](http://www.dpreview.com/news/0306/03062502leicadigitalr9.asp). An interesting system, and kudos to Leica for trying it out.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-29T14:45:11.237" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="10599" PostId="7836" Score="2" Text="Sounds like a cool project! Do you have a writeup? " CreationDate="2011-01-29T14:46:09.770" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="10600" PostId="7856" Score="1" Text="I suppose you wanted to say 3200 ISO, as 320 is not that high! :)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T15:50:32.163" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="10601" PostId="7724" Text="If you really want to shoot just continuous photos, use a tripod and take a look at the CHDK for endless shooting." CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:07:32.007" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10602" PostId="7856" Score="1" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! This is very similar to several other questions related to ISO; try http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/70/what-is-iso-and-how-does-it-affect-my-photos or search for &quot;iso&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:08:23.450" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10603" PostId="7849" Text="@ysap I don't know the others, but the one in the SX210 is optical." CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:22:25.203" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10604" PostId="7845" Text="I don't know much about C#. Can you call C library functions in some way? There's gotta be. That's probably a question for http://stackoverflow.com/" CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:23:01.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10605" PostId="7849" Text="Good answer, I'll try that later." CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:23:03.440" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10606" PostId="7850" Text="How do they detect that? A movement reduction or a switch in the end of the tripod hole? If the first, I think the IS system can still be activated by a vibration." CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:25:42.207" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10607" PostId="5105" Text="Lightroom 3 has built in Flickr support. Have you tried it already?" CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:28:53.347" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10608" PostId="7856" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What is &quot;ISO&quot; on a digital camera?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6615/what-is-iso-on-a-digital-camera)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:37:30.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10610" PostId="1838" Score="1" Text="I'm voting to close the other one as a duplicate of this one. :)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T16:40:57.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10611" PostId="4711" Score="1" Text="You can also tag your images by year, giving a way to look at them across that axis." CreationDate="2011-01-29T17:13:35.553" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10612" PostId="7845" Score="1" Text="This is the kind of answers that makes me think that most photographers who hang out in photo.SE came from SO." CreationDate="2011-01-29T17:54:39.900" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10613" PostId="7732" Text="Yes, a training class of some kind would be excellent preparation, if one could be found..." CreationDate="2011-01-29T18:29:59.950" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="10614" PostId="7860" Score="2" Text="Make sure your subject isn't wearing green... seriously though make sure your subject is far enough from the BG so that green light isn't reflected onto your subject... " CreationDate="2011-01-29T18:58:29.547" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10615" PostId="7850" Text="They disable it by watching a motion sensor to see if there is enough vibration to trigger the IS counter-movement. If nothing happens after a set interval the code would have a pretty good idea the camera was not being hand-held. It is impossible for a human to not move; Even when we hold as still as possible our heart beat still causes minor movements. That's part of the challenge of shooting long-lenses without a tripod, and why they developed IS." CreationDate="2011-01-29T19:27:00.010" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10616" PostId="7849" Text="My comment was referring more to the physical size difference between IS mechanisms in a SLR lens and a P&amp;S, especially something like a 70-200f2.8L IS. The pro lenses are more complicated due to the larger size and greater mass of the elements, have bigger motors and are more noticeable when they actuate. You can physically feel the lens adjust when it spins up, then feel the lens counter the movement. All the way around it's beefier." CreationDate="2011-01-29T19:35:49.940" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10617" PostId="7805" Text="sure, but maybe a month from now! :) i may do a proper review with samples, just for the hell of it." CreationDate="2011-01-29T21:03:33.413" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10618" PostId="7863" Text="Did you already try to use the USB cable and software that came with your camera?" CreationDate="2011-01-29T21:30:58.683" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="10619" PostId="7861" Score="1" Text="+1 for uniformly lit background and no shadows of the subject on the greenscreen." CreationDate="2011-01-29T21:40:21.857" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10620" PostId="6193" Text="Is here the right place to comment that maybe it's interesting to learn to develop sheet film at home, as it's quite expensive (5€ a pop, i believe) and the format lends itself quite well to experimentation/learning and custom development adjustments? just my two cents :)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T21:58:11.000" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10621" PostId="6193" Text="Maybe another wiki with development techniques would be nice (will search that)" CreationDate="2011-01-29T21:59:00.063" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10622" PostId="7864" Score="1" Text="One of the problems with long exposure is that it requires a very firm surface. Also, it requires a sensor without alot of noise. Both of those are going to be very difficult in a phone or a macbook. A camera has a screw to connect it to a tripod, making the problem easier, but I don't know how you'd do it with a phone... Hmmm." CreationDate="2011-01-29T22:29:41.257" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10623" PostId="7864" Text="I have to agree with Pearsonartphoto, your limitations on hardware are going to make it difficult to do. It may help to define what you mean by long exposure as, for some, it's as little as a fraction of a second, for others it's minutes or hours." CreationDate="2011-01-29T22:41:15.540" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10624" PostId="7868" Text="That would seem to indicate that I should try to avoid using a flash, since that might cast shadows." CreationDate="2011-01-29T22:54:26.383" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="10625" PostId="7868" Text="Using &quot;a flash&quot; would be bad because you will throw shadows, and it will probably be pretty unflattering to the subjects. Using multiple flashes to control the light would be better. Using some softboxes to soften the light on the subjects, a flash for separation, and separate ones to light the background evenly, would be best. " CreationDate="2011-01-29T23:19:00.760" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10626" PostId="7864" Text="The two platforms you're asking about are so different that I think this would be better as two separate questions." CreationDate="2011-01-29T23:24:52.303" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10627" PostId="7868" Text="@chris Off-camera flash is OK if you're careful about where your shadows fall. With on-camera flash, a shadow on your background is almost unavoidable." CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:12:17.490" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10628" PostId="7870" Text="How long ago did you erase the folders?  What is the Operating system?  You may be able to recover some or all of the folders/files." CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:26:48.200" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="10629" PostId="7802" Text="Well, that's more *pixels* to work with. When it comes to noise, it's more related to the individual performance of the photosites. Mostly." CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:29:09.070" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="10630" PostId="7869" Text="Unfortunately, the shutter speed setting is only available on external iSights." CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:31:46.833" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10631" PostId="7857" Text="And note that sensors designed for dark-field photography (the sort of thing an astronomer would attach to a telescope) are actively cooled (usually by a Peltier device) to eliminate thermal noise that won't be hidden by a light-induced signal. As far as I know, only multishot and scanning camera backs come equipped that way in the world of general photography." CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:52:29.930" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10632" PostId="7785" Text="@mattdm - I just checked and not only it doesn't show its power, it rather shows the Flash Type as the Built-In Flash... which I actually used as the master for wirelessly controlling the 580EXII." CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:53:40.007" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10633" PostId="7872" Score="2" Text="Should be true, but I don't know. If you care for high-speed-photographing, take a look at the Casio Exilim F-series. They are meant for this kind of serial snapshot: 30 pictures/s at normal resolution with a ring-buffer to take photos before you even full-pressed the shutter." CreationDate="2011-01-30T01:51:05.410" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10634" PostId="7874" Text="Why do you need IS? Are you regularly shooting slower than 1/70th of a second at the far end of the lens?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:00:04.807" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10635" PostId="7874" Score="1" Text="Sligthly false assumption there I think, John. 1/70 is optistic; it works (more or less) well on full-frame at 70 mm but the crop has to be factored in. I'd call it 1/140 just to be safe." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:11:54.800" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10636" PostId="7874" Text="A 70mm lens is still a 70mm lens. The crop doesn't change the focal length of the lens, just the angle of view. Besides, your math doesn't add up, a 1.5 crop has the same angle of view as a 105mm on a FF sensor, so worse case it's about 1/100." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:20:54.437" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10637" PostId="7874" Score="1" Text="A 70mm lens may still be a 70mm lens, but the crop factor does have to be taken into account when discussing blur from camera shake. A 44mm lens with a 1/3.5&quot; sensor is going to be way more subject to camera shake than a 44mm lens on a 35mm sensor." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:26:26.640" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10638" PostId="7874" Text="As a side note... as a smoker, my hands are hardly steady as a rock and the 1/focal rule still works for me on an APS-C." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:27:03.587" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10639" PostId="7874" Text="@Evan Krall - No, the crop factor won't, the pixel density may have an impact, but an APS-C with the same pixel density as a FF is simply a crop and won't have the same impact. I think this is where people confuse the two. A tightly packed sensor is more sensitive to movement, but this isn't directly related to the size of the sensor, and so the sensor size can't be directly translated to some of the classic shooting rules." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:31:52.600" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10640" PostId="7874" Score="1" Text="I tested one day and there's a huge difference in blur on my 50mm between 1/50th and 1/80th...even when trying to be steady, the 1/50th was at the edge of acceptable.  I've switched to taking the crop factor into account for my steady calculations..." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:32:08.660" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10641" PostId="7874" Score="1" Text="In any case, the question is still valid... Paying for IS under 100mm seems like a total waste of money to me unless you're seriously jittery. At those focal lengths it is a crutch for not using good form when shooting and the evidence I'll use for that is about 100 years of photography without image stabilization..." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:35:38.803" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10642" PostId="7874" Text="@John Cavan - Definitely, especially with a wide aperture." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:37:37.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10643" PostId="7874" Text="@rfusca - There are techniques, somewhat in common with rifle shooting, that can change a lot of this. When I was doing the military gig (got to the exalted rank of Lieutenant) the trick to a steady shot was to take up the slack on the trigger and then gently squeeze to fire the round. Conscious attempts to do this at first leads to doing it generally and I went from an okay shot to marksman with that effort. The same, basic, principles apply to photography." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:39:07.253" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10644" PostId="7785" Text="@ysap — oh well! Thanks for looking. " CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:40:11.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10645" PostId="7874" Text="@John Cavan - I have some rifle training and am familiar with some steadying techniques (both positions and breathing) - though I would not by any means call myself a marksman.  I just found the 80mm to be more of my threshold, perhaps I'm just pickier than the average bear." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:41:47.560" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10646" PostId="7874" Text="@rfusca - The lens matters as well, but mileage varies by person in any case, including using the 1/focal rule. I just generally object to blindly using the crop factor as a multiplier, it isn't always the case. An 18mp APS-C and a 10mp APS-C are not the same beast and to treat them the same when it comes to sensor size is naive." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:44:45.923" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="10647" PostId="7871" Text="I'm not sure I understand... Are you asking for different ideas of pictures to take using an intervalometer?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:48:52.763" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10648" PostId="7874" Text="@John Cavan - True enough." CreationDate="2011-01-30T02:49:43.013" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10649" PostId="7876" Text="+1 on the video artifacts. One possible experiment (results depend a lot on the codec and compression level): do you have a Blu-Ray player? If so, pause the video and examine the scene from a distance such that the screen occupies the same portion of your field of view as a photo of the desired size would. Do you see any artifacts? I don't have a Blu-Ray player, but the difference between video (looks fine) and paused video (massive artifact problems) on my DVD player is very dramatic. " CreationDate="2011-01-30T03:01:22.957" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10650" PostId="2215" Text="There needs to be another category of photographer: &quot;expert&quot;. An expert photographer could be pro because they can deliver the results consistently, but, for whatever reason, chooses to not derive their primary income from photography." CreationDate="2011-01-30T03:28:11.077" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10652" PostId="6877" Text="See my comment to @chuqui's answer: &quot;Expert&quot; is a needed category/distinction. &quot;Serious&quot; photographers can still not know much but intend to learn and become expert." CreationDate="2011-01-30T03:31:19.467" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10653" PostId="7874" Text="I really want the IS more to be able to hand hold at slower shutter speeds in low light because right now I tend to increase the ISO which of course results in more noise. I'm looking into getting a wide angle fast prime as well." CreationDate="2011-01-30T04:45:08.170" UserId="1431" />
  <row Id="10654" PostId="7874" Score="1" Text="These kinds of questions are impossible for us to answer. You are asking if something is worth the money, but we don't know how much you value your money or your lens. Some people fly economy class and others fly first class; no one choice is more &quot;correct&quot;." CreationDate="2011-01-30T05:12:39.927" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="10655" PostId="7870" Score="2" Text="Like seanmc said, you might be able to recover those files, but if you keep using the computer, other files will be written over the space where the photos are. When you deleted those photos, they weren't gone, you just couldn't see them." CreationDate="2011-01-30T05:27:54.187" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10656" PostId="7874" Text="@rm999 I agree these questions are hard to answer, sorry. Although, I'm not expecting people to know if something is worth it to me. Rather I'm trying to understand why these two lenses, which have very similar specifications, are priced so differently." CreationDate="2011-01-30T05:29:34.823" UserId="1431" />
  <row Id="10658" PostId="7877" Text="Yes as you can see from my update above, wide aperture is important. Thanks for the suggestion .. even if it will probably cost me $600+" CreationDate="2011-01-30T05:30:17.337" UserId="1431" />
  <row Id="10659" PostId="7876" Text="What specs do I look for in terms of codec and bitrate to compensate for the artifacts?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T06:24:33.057" UserId="3578" />
  <row Id="10660" PostId="7370" Score="1" Text="This question has received a lot of answers already. I can try merging it with its duplicates, but it might be hairy business. Should we just keep this as-is, since it has become an active topic on its own?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T06:53:25.863" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10661" PostId="7891" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [Which are must have lenses for Canon?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5245/which-are-must-have-lenses-for-canon)" CreationDate="2011-01-30T09:20:02.787" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10662" PostId="7891" Score="2" Text="Since we don't have any idea of what you plan to do with your camera, it isn't very specific at all... In fact there's not really enough information there for us to give you a useful answer. Have you taken a look at: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5245/which-are-must-have-lenses-for-canon" CreationDate="2011-01-30T09:21:50.770" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10663" PostId="7892" Score="3" Text="This lens is indeed very good for its price, however it is a bit too long as the sole starter lens on an APS-C sensor (like 80mm on FF)." CreationDate="2011-01-30T09:49:51.020" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="10664" PostId="7892" Text="As everything, it depends on what he wants to do. I find that it's a really nice lens for portraits. Also, it has a pretty large aperture so it's good for low light situations." CreationDate="2011-01-30T10:10:18.203" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="10665" PostId="7891" Score="1" Text="Like just I said I'm a beginner and I'm not very sure what will I do with my camera. I'm looking for a cheap starter and I will continue according to my interests." CreationDate="2011-01-30T10:24:08.700" UserId="3427" />
  <row Id="10666" PostId="7895" Text="hes comparing between 450D and 500D, not 550D." CreationDate="2011-01-30T10:39:58.123" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="10667" PostId="7876" Text="@dsg Generally speaking, more modern codecs like H264 are going to suffer fewer artifacts at the same bitrate as an older codec. If your camera has options for bitrate, choose the highest setting." CreationDate="2011-01-30T11:21:07.923" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10668" PostId="7881" Score="1" Text="I find that trying to time your shots is more likely to get you a keeper than just holding down the shutter release in burst mode. Of course, higher burst rate and a longer buffer is still going to be helpful here." CreationDate="2011-01-30T11:24:08.997" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10669" PostId="75" Text=":) this is funny, when I bought my new orbis ring flash, this was the first thing I did." CreationDate="2011-01-30T11:31:15.230" UserId="3357" />
  <row Id="10670" PostId="7830" Text="@Daniel T.: Yes and no.  Since sensors use a Bayer colour filter, that 640x480 crop will largely be interpolated data and will not have enough actual resolution to look nice on a computer screen, compared to starting with at least twice that resolution and downscaling.  But ignoring the Bayer filtering, yes." CreationDate="2011-01-30T13:41:59.897" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10671" PostId="7830" Text="To help answer the earlier question about whether cropping changes perspective, it would have the same effect on perspective as increasing your focal length eg zooming in on a zoom lens: that is, it will have NO effect.  As others have said, perspective is changed by moving the camera (or subject).  When you increase your focal length you don't change perspective.  But when you then step back several steps to fit the subject in, you do.  Same with cropping.  I don't know why people think zooming itself affects perspective." CreationDate="2011-01-30T13:45:42.873" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="10673" PostId="7901" Text="I'm almost in the same situation once upon a time you were, thanks a lot :)" CreationDate="2011-01-30T13:51:50.227" UserId="3427" />
  <row Id="10674" PostId="7881" Text="SLRs tend to be a little problematic in that regard due to mirror black-out -- particularly when dealing with erratic motion (like, oh, kids, say) where a smooth pan is likely as not to have the camera pointed where the subject isn't anymore. Pellicle mirror cameras are made for this (like the old Canon EOS RT film camera and the newer Sony α55 digital); you give up about a third of a stop for a constant viewfinder image, high burst rate and shorter shutter lag." CreationDate="2011-01-30T14:34:40.357" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10675" PostId="7881" Text="The real meat of the post was about the Red camera.  If the OP is really interested in pulling stills from video, they should spend the $17k or whatever it costs for a Red One and go that route.  Not what I, personally, would do, but that's one way to get high res stills from video." CreationDate="2011-01-30T14:48:59.347" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="10676" PostId="7854" Score="1" Text="It's my understanding that this is a function of the design of the super-bright, no-focus-aid plastic focusing screens used in modern cameras, and that it's generally true of full-frame DSLRs as well. At least it only effects the viewfinder view, not the photo." CreationDate="2011-01-30T15:11:59.687" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="10677" PostId="7815" Text="Are you sure that is the lens? The 14-24mm I've used showed nearly no barrel distortion. Due to its extremely wide-angle there is something people call geometric or perspective distortion but that has to do with the angle of view. On my case on a D3, so it won't be so pronounced on yours." CreationDate="2011-01-30T15:17:33.160" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10678" PostId="6193" Text="I'd love to have info on that! It does strike me as deserving a separate post, but if you find or create one (and I may well do the latter, if you don't beat me to it), please do link to it from here! It's quite relevant to list the option, so just put the link right in the question, above or below all the other links. The details would be too much to put inline, but a link would fit right in!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T16:35:05.033" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10679" PostId="7908" Text="I forgot: if the background is farther away from the subject, it will be blurrier, and vice-versa." CreationDate="2011-01-30T16:53:37.323" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10680" PostId="7907" Text="Precisely because of the Strobist article on the SB-24, you can sometimes find the -25, -26, -28 cheaper on eBay." CreationDate="2011-01-30T16:53:48.307" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10681" PostId="7796" Text="Supposedly the Rebels can do this, but I may need to do mine longer. I will have to check with a local repair shop to see if a service like that is offered for Rebels. I was hoping to find some software fixes as well. " CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:02:21.507" UserId="8" />
  <row Id="10682" PostId="7795" Text="Its discussing the very similar issue I am having (mine look a lot like that), but was really looking for possible Canon specific fixes, or ways to do this better in Apples' Aperture (that post mostly covers Nikons and using Lightroom)" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:04:11.813" UserId="8" />
  <row Id="10683" PostId="7904" Score="1" Text="I think this quesiton is really covered in this one:  http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3986/aps-c-vs-full-frame-why-should-i-care" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:04:31.703" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="10684" PostId="7903" Text="+1 for MJPEG; I hadn't even thought of that, but it would definitely be best for this." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:05:59.223" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10685" PostId="7876" Score="1" Text="@dsg As thomasrutter mentions below, the ideal codec here would be MJPEG, which just JPEG-compresses every frame individually, and doesn't use interframe compression. All frames should be of basically the same image quality. However, because of the lack of interframe compression, MJPEG will need to compress more heavily to get the same bitrate as other video codecs." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:10:55.970" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10686" PostId="7908" Text="How can sensor size (#3) possibly affect background blur?  Sure, if the *pixels* are *really* large, you will get some error from the coarseness of digitizing, but otherwise the image on the sensor hasn't changed.  In particular, the area the sensor covers in the focal plane merely determines how much of the scene is captured: it doesn't change the image in any way." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:14:55.977" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10687" PostId="7886" Score="4" Text="+1 Excellent advice for critique in general, not just photography.  The points about making a preliminary private evaluation of the photographer's ability to receive the critique and about finding some good in the photograph speak of wisdom and experience." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:20:36.750" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10688" PostId="7908" Text="I don't think you are correct about #3. A 50mm lens on a ff camera will project exactly the same image as a 50mm lens on a APS_C camera, EXCEPT the sensor is smaller so the captured part of the image is cropped. The properties of the lens don't change just because you put it on a different camera. (Note the distinction between projected image and captured image). I think the confusion arises because you need a 80mm lens on an APS-C to capture the same field of view as a 50mm on a a FF camera. Now you have two different lenses, so two different DOFs. " CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:24:32.520" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="10689" PostId="7910" Score="1" Text="What do you mean, &quot;non-D40&quot;? I'm fairly sure this lens would work with the D40. In fact, I believe the D40 was the first to drop the internal AF motor and rely entirely on AF-S." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:30:14.690" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10690" PostId="7908" Text="@Ken Other way; you need a 33mm lens on an APS-C to capture the same field of view as a 50mm on a full-frame camera." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:34:33.607" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10691" PostId="7908" Text="Thx @EvanKrall you're correct, I got the two mixed up :-§" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:42:12.577" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="10692" PostId="7904" Score="1" Text="@rfusca: I'm not sure I agree. This is a specific question about a generic concept, and I think warrants being treated separately than the other, which is much more general in concept, yet more specific about camera models.  Interesting question, by the way -- same size circle of confusion on a smaller sensor yielding more of the frame versus the steps backward you take which may or may not (I honestly don't know, and look forward to reading the answers) counteract that, especially with the closer-to-infinity focus that results. Curious!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:43:46.477" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10693" PostId="7908" Text="I agree that your part #3 -- sensor size -- is technically incorrect, except inasmuch as it affects what I think ought to be in its place: distance from subject. The closer you are, the narrower your depth of field (your #4 answer). Now, as the question was asked (same lens on two different bodies, adjusting shooting position to compensate), this does mean that sensor size makes a difference in DOF, but only indirectly, by changing subject distance (or focal length, if framing concerns are solved that way, instead)." CreationDate="2011-01-30T17:51:34.377" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10694" PostId="7911" Text="Some good suggestions in there. I'd previously looked at the Yung Nuo but then ended up looking at the 465 and deciding it was more than i needed. Having re-looked at the 460 and seeing there's a slightly upgraded II they do with finer output controls this may well be perfect for my needs. Will have a look at the others too to see how they match up" CreationDate="2011-01-30T18:16:55.263" UserId="3584" />
  <row Id="10695" PostId="5071" Text="There isn't a true &quot;Factory Reset&quot; available, but the resets described in the manual get you almost all the way there.  If someone has set something and can't remember what was done, and is now taking strange photos, the resets you described should do the trick.  I ended up deleting the image comment information by hand." CreationDate="2011-01-30T18:32:41.937" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="10696" PostId="7913" Text="I assume that you are using a calibration system of some kind for your screen? Otherwise, it won't matter whether the printer is calbrated or not." CreationDate="2011-01-30T19:22:48.717" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10697" PostId="7915" Text="This is entirely untrue. Canon printers produce very accurate prints when used properly, its just that they tend to try color-correcting in the driver itslef by default. Disabling printer ICM and using a custom ICC profile allows Canon printers to produce prints that are just as accurate as an Epson." CreationDate="2011-01-30T19:32:36.893" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10698" PostId="7908" Score="1" Text="I have found it: http://fcalc.net/online/" CreationDate="2011-01-30T19:42:11.197" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10699" PostId="7915" Text="@jrista: That simply doesn't match my experience. For most people, getting nearly as accurate a profile simply isn't possible (I can't afford *nearly* as good a photospectrometer as Epson can). When using profiles provided by a high-end RIP vendor, Canons come a lot *closer*, but IME still come out inferior to Epsons." CreationDate="2011-01-30T19:46:54.140" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10700" PostId="7915" Text="@Jerry Coffin: Canon, as well as the third-party paper manufacturers I use, all use high quality spectrophotometers to generate their color profiles. Outside of the few paper types I have not been able to find color profiles for, the color rendition and accuracy of a professionally created color profile with my Canon PIXMA Pro9500 is stellar, and when I compare prints side-by-side with Epson prints, the differences are minimal. The key differences are simply gamut, as Canon's gamut extends into areas of green and red more, while Epsons extend into deep magenta and orange more." CreationDate="2011-01-30T19:59:35.100" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10701" PostId="7915" Text="I think the argument that Epson print quality was better was true a number of years ago, before Canon started using pigment inks. Canon printers are into their second generation of Lucia pigment inks, and the differences in gamut, color reproduction quality, and archival longevity between Canon and Epson are slim to none these days. I think the primary differences really just boil down to ink colors used, which affects the gamut of the device. Regarding gloss differential, metamerism, bronzing, etc., Canon Lucia/LuciaII inks have progressed considerably, and solidly rival Ultrachrome K3." CreationDate="2011-01-30T20:04:39.883" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10702" PostId="7914" Text="&quot;Trying to review pictures in the 450D can be frustrating at times, as you can really never tell if your sharpness and focus is acceptable until you view your images on a computer.&quot; is a very good point. I will buy my camera from Turkey and price difference is like 450D (0), 500D(+200$) and 550D(+450$), I'm really confused. Does &quot;review pictures&quot; on LCD make that much difference?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T20:08:22.293" UserId="3427" />
  <row Id="10703" PostId="7908" Text="I think #3 is a bit of a misnomer here. Sensor &quot;size&quot; is only a factor if you use the same focal length and want the same framing. With a FF, you can get closer to your subject for the same framing than you can with a smaller sensor. That will change the DOF, which therefor affects bokeh. I think what is more important is **sensor pixel size**, which affects the circle of confusion, which only really matters if you enlarge the resulting photo considerably. " CreationDate="2011-01-30T20:12:56.797" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10704" PostId="7914" Score="2" Text="I'm with jrista with this one. If you can afford it, go for the 550D. It's not only the LCD size..." CreationDate="2011-01-30T20:15:24.677" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="10705" PostId="7908" Score="1" Text="Whenever you talk about factors affecting depth of field it's **essential** to state what you're keeping the same in the comparison and what you are allowing to differ. For me it makes sense to keep the angle of view and subject distance the same (so that you getting as close to the same photo in each case). If you were comparing a DSLR and compact, you wouldn't use a 10mm lens on the DSLR just because the compact has a 10mm lens. You'd use one that gives the same angle of view. So when you change focal length to maintain angle of view, DOF changes with sensor size." CreationDate="2011-01-30T20:56:33.100" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="10706" PostId="7908" Text="@Matt Grum - again and again we witness these kind of discussions, were repeatedly people neglect to state (or to think of) what exactly is kept constant when changing a factor. You seem to put it right, that when comparing DoF, it is important to decide whether the framing of the subject (and *only* it) remains the same, or some other factor is constant, like FoV, etc. I think sometime a full end accurate summary of this subject has to be posted here, backed by numbers from the various DoF calcuklators around, and possibly some image samples." CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:07:06.147" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10707" PostId="7911" Text="Thanks.  I'm realizing, too, that some of what I've said here may be out-of-date a little, with respect to models and things.  Which perhaps is fine, given your second-hand notions. ;)  I'd be sure to check the strobist post and/or the threads he links to, as these different flashes have differences in quality in various ways, that may be fine for you, but you'd probably want to at least be aware of before you buy.  Good luck!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:20:13.763" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10708" PostId="7922" Text="&quot;both are way below the Canon&quot; --&gt; you meant &quot;Nikon,&quot; right?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:46:17.827" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10709" PostId="7922" Text="Yes - corrected this." CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:48:21.057" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10710" PostId="7920" Text="My apologies, should have mentioned mac platform." CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:52:20.630" UserId="624" />
  <row Id="10711" PostId="7922" Score="2" Text="By the way, welcome to photo.SE!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:05:48.170" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10712" PostId="7922" Text="Thank you for this warm welcome!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:09:41.817" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10713" PostId="7915" Text="Yes, if you compare Lucia II to Ultrachrome K3, it looks pretty solid. Unfortunately, that's competing with what Epson introduced ~5 years ago. They're still well behind Epson's current Ultrachrome HDR though." CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:19:16.740" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10714" PostId="7926" Score="1" Text="Thank you for this very complete answer. I forgot to mention that all pictures were taken using a tripod, so holding technique is not an issue." CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:19:31.663" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10715" PostId="7924" Text="I forgot to mention that all pictures were taken using a tripod, so holding technique is not an issue. Also, the images were taken in RAW format. Based on the other replies, we will try a fixed-focal lens." CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:20:48.590" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10716" PostId="7928" Text="I wasn't sure should I answer in the first or the second person, but went for the 2nd just for the fun of it." CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:22:02.330" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="10717" PostId="7926" Score="1" Text="Just to be sure, the Canon 50/1.8 you mention would be the &quot;CANON EF 50mm F/1.8 II&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:25:53.823" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10718" PostId="7914" Text="@metdos: Reviewing images on the LCD is not the only difference that matters. Having used the 450D for almost two years myself, I can tell you that using live view or reviewing pictures is only useful to make sure you composed right...reviewing focus and sharpness is difficult at best, pointless at worst. There are MANY more benefits to the 550D that makes it a FAR more worthwhile camera than either of the other two...14-bit RAW and color metering being two primary ones." CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:47:30.463" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10719" PostId="7915" Text="I would compare Lucia to Ultrachrome K3, and Lucia II to Ultrachrome HDR. Lucia has been around for around four years at least, if not longer, and Lucia II has been less than a year now (Mar 2010). Just like Ultrachrome HDR introduced a broader gamut that covered Adobe RGB and over 90% of Pantone, so did Lucia II introduce a broader gamut that also covered Adobe RGB and over 90% of Pantone. Just like Canon and Nikon regularly leapfrog each other, so do Canon and Epson. I think Epson's new Uchrome HDR + White offers a slightly broader gamut, but it won't be long until Canon competes again." CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:57:37.297" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10720" PostId="7908" Text="I would tend to disagree with the initial statement &quot;Background blur depends on depth of field&quot;. DOF alone does not determine background blur, as can be seen here on the photos here (identical DOF but different background blur): http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/bokeh_background_blur.html" CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:59:16.763" UserId="2814" />
  <row Id="10721" PostId="7915" Text="The argument that Epson is in some way fundamentally better or far beyond Canon is the argument that I dispute. It *used* to be true. Today, the technological differences have narrowed considerably, and I think the more heated, neck-to-neck competition between these two manufacturers is a GOOD thing that will only produce better printers and inks in the near future. I think a dogmatic adherence to the old adage that Epson is simply better is illogical, and largely based in subjective, personal opinion. Technologically, the gap is extremely narrow." CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:00:27.883" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10722" PostId="7926" Text="Yes, that's the right lens." CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:00:55.090" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10723" PostId="7908" Text="Actually if you look here: http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/bokeh.html and scroll down to the table, for the first 3 cases, DOF increases and at the same time background blur increases. So the 2 are quite independant really." CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:05:07.657" UserId="2814" />
  <row Id="10724" PostId="7919" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2973/insert-exif-dates-from-file-modified-date." CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:05:30.963" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10725" PostId="7915" Text="My apologies. I've been using &quot;Lucia II&quot; to refer to Canon's latest ink formulation, however I meant to use &quot;Lucia EX&quot;. Its the Lucia EX ink, introduced March 2010, that competes with Ultrachrome HDR, and covers something like 90%+ of the Pantone Color Match gamut. It should be noted that only the newest Canon and Epson printers support these gamuts. The Epson 7900 and 9900 use Ultrachrome HDR, and the new Canon iPF 6300, 6350, and 8300 use Lucia EX. You need to shell out at least $2300 to benefit from these ultra wide print gamuts. :'(" CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:08:29.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10726" PostId="7933" Text="Can't ask for better than this..." CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:26:42.303" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="10727" PostId="7933" Text="Thanks! This is just what I was wanting to know. Do you have a recommendation for which software to use? Preferably one with the lowest learning curve.&#xA;&#xA;Method #2 sounds very interesting, and perhaps something I should look at further down the track - do you have some examples of videos you've shot in this way? I'd love to see. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:27:56.763" UserId="3591" />
  <row Id="10728" PostId="7933" Score="1" Text="I have several timelapse tests that I did earlier last year here: http://www.vimeo.com/search/videos/search:jeff%20lanctot%20timelapse/78c4eac8... All the motion in them is using method #1 however, as my motion capture rig is still a work in progress and I haven't taken anything that I've been happy enough with to publish yet. :-) In terms of software... I'm an Adobe Premiere and Adobe After Effects user, so beyond those two I don't have a lot of direct experience. Any package that gives you the ability to 'animate a video across the stage' will be able to do method #1..." CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:38:08.263" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10729" PostId="7932" Text="That seems to be for digital SLRs, not for film, sorry! " CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:40:56.350" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="10730" PostId="3978" Text="And how would you power that camera for several months?!" CreationDate="2011-01-30T23:43:23.407" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10732" PostId="7935" Text="How &quot;most Canon DSLRs&quot;? AFAIK, the IS is in the lens and not in the body, and the majority of the stabilized lenses have IS of the older type that is not tripod-aware." CreationDate="2011-01-31T00:10:50.950" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10734" PostId="7922" Text="Can you post samples? How were the RAW files processed?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T00:26:42.090" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10735" PostId="7910" Text="@Evan Krall: by that I meant that the D40 will not work fully with certain lenses; it won't AF on non-AF-S lenses. As it happens, the D3100 and D5000 also have the same issue, so I'm going to pull the D40 bit from my answer; it's just confusing." CreationDate="2011-01-31T00:38:28.083" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10736" PostId="7935" Text="I'm already using it with the IS deactivated. The battery lasts **much** longer. And I don't know what that has to do with this, but the camera also processes long exposure images way faster." CreationDate="2011-01-31T00:50:55.267" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10737" PostId="7870" Text="Oh.. I'm pretty sure it was quite a while ago but couldn't tell really when. I only found they were missing when I was looking through the old archive I have. Anyways, Its a Windows on NTFS. Anyway, if I was to recover it, which program would you recommend? Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T00:59:58.847" UserId="1756" />
  <row Id="10738" PostId="7870" Text="Welcome to photo.SE! And good luck - certainly sounds like a crummy situation." CreationDate="2011-01-31T01:05:57.983" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10739" PostId="7851" Text="&gt; (one second? two?)&#xA;About one-half second, usually. On Canon, at least." CreationDate="2011-01-31T01:08:00.360" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10740" PostId="7907" Score="1" Text="The SB-26 (and 28?) has a built-in optical slave trigger, which saves you from needing an extra doodad to do this. Quite nice." CreationDate="2011-01-31T01:17:33.277" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10741" PostId="7819" Text="I think I prefer the photomatix sky and possibly shoes, jeans. Perhaps you could do a mix and merge the photomatix result with the original exposure in photoshop? " CreationDate="2011-01-31T01:56:23.870" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="10742" PostId="7937" Score="4" Text="Hi Nathan, can you give us a sense of what your budget is? We can recommend some lenses at $5,000 and up which are very nice for bird photos, but that's a bit much for most people..." CreationDate="2011-01-31T02:46:36.617" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="10743" PostId="7938" Score="1" Text="Photographing is a hobby for me, but I can invest a lot on this, money isn't a problem" CreationDate="2011-01-31T02:47:59.917" UserId="3086" />
  <row Id="10744" PostId="7937" Score="1" Text="Money isn't a problem, but for sure $5000 is too much for a hobby investment..." CreationDate="2011-01-31T02:50:32.563" UserId="3086" />
  <row Id="10745" PostId="7915" Text="Alright, if you want to get extremely specific. From Epson 4900 page: &quot;•Certified by PANTONE® to cover 98% of the Formula Guide Solid Coated * // * When printing on Epson Proofing Paper White Semimatte with the standard Epson driver at 2,880 x 1,440 dpi. PANTONE coverage may vary when printed with a 3rd party RIP.&quot; Espon is only able to achieve 98% Pantone coverage with a SPECIFIC PAPER. Canon's specific terminology is &quot;OVER 90% of Pantone&quot;,  and they also state that it is only achievable on Canon papers with their driver at maximum DPI." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:19:52.717" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10746" PostId="7939" Text="I was a DMC-FZ18 :)" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:21:34.493" UserId="3086" />
  <row Id="10747" PostId="7915" Text="Additionally, being extremely specific about longevity. Epson claims that Ultrachrome HDR can last &quot;Up to 200 years&quot; for color, and &quot;Over 200 years&quot; for black and white...according to note C, only when displayed under glass (they don't specify glass kind, however I assume UV protective.) Wilhelm Research clocks Epson's latest ink on a variety of Epson papers at &gt;200 to &gt;300 years under ideal archival storage conditions. Ideal storage conditions are in dark storage, 73degF, and low humidity. Average lifetime under basic glass and normal light, humidity, and gas conditions is about 85-105 years." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:28:30.223" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10748" PostId="7915" Text="Canon's Lucia EX ratings from Wilhelm Research clocked in at &gt;200 years under archival storage for Canon Satin Photographic paper, and &gt;300 years for Canon Fine Art Photo Rag Hahnemuhle paper. Both papers displayed under UV protective glass come in at &gt;115 years and &gt;125 years, respectively. Ideal storage conditions are the same as for Epson prints. Average lifetime under basic glass and normal light, humidity, and gas conditions is about 83-95 years." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:29:47.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10749" PostId="7915" Text="While I can't claim specifically exactly how far above &quot;90% Pantone&quot; coverage Canon can achieve, I can specifically state that Epson can only achieve it with a single specific paper type. I think it is safe to say that **both** Canon and Epson can achieve 90% Panton gamut coverage with *their* printers and *their* papers, at maximum DPI for each printer. Epson has a presumed 10 year lead on Canon inks as far as longevity goes...however those numbers are estimates to start with, and both &quot;max out&quot; at 200-300 years." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:32:16.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10750" PostId="7915" Text="[Epson Ultrachrom HDR Wilhelm Research Study http://www.wilhelm-research.com/epson/WIR_Ep_ESP4900_2010_10_26.pdf ] [Canon Lucia EX Wilhelm Research Study http://www.wilhelm-research.com/canon/WIR_Canon8300_2010_09_02.pdf ]" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:33:45.690" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10751" PostId="7940" Text="Compared to my old camera, the EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM would be about which zoom rate? Something like 19x?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:38:13.623" UserId="3086" />
  <row Id="10752" PostId="7939" Text="Okay, that appears to have a 28-504mm (35mm equivalent) lens; 504/1.6=315, so a 300mm lens would have just *slightly* less reach than you're used to." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:41:27.050" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10753" PostId="7915" Text="@jrista: Just FWIW, the links you just posted appear to be broken. Epson has only had a single paper certified; that does't mean the gamut suddenly shrinks dramatically with other papers. Given the size of the difference, it's *extremely* doubtful that there's any circumstance under which the Canon can match the Epson." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:42:34.463" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10754" PostId="7940" Score="1" Text="@Nathan that's a 4x zoom (400/100=4).  &quot;Zoom&quot; on a lens is the difference between the longest and shortest focal lengths.  When comparing lenses, you generally want to compare focal lengths, not zoom values.  When choosing a lens to mount on your 60D, multiply its focal length(s) by 1.6 and see where that value slots in to the 28-504 of your DMC-FZ18.  So a 100-400 would be &quot;like&quot; (there are a lot of other factors, too, it's not just a simple multiplication) a 160-640.  It would reach longer than your DMC-FZ18, but zoomed all the way out would be like zooming in 5.7x on your DMC-FZ18." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:48:10.303" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10755" PostId="7940" Score="1" Text="A 100-400mm lens is precisely a 4x zoom (400 divided by 100). As would a 25-100mm be, if anybody made such a beast, which they don't. To put it in other terms - &quot;zoom rate&quot; is an utterly meaningless term; it tells you virtually nothing about actual lens reach." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:52:17.830" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10756" PostId="7942" Score="3" Text="Great answer, covers everything quite nicely. I would say that the 100-400 L IS lens is an option if you don't want to spend thousands of dollars. I will concur that it is certainly not ideal, however if you have a decent camera, like the 7D or perhaps even a 60D, where higher ISO is an option, it can serve you well for around $1500. Thats certainly nothing to shake a stick at. Still, a 500mm f/4 L IS is going to be ideal." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:56:57.213" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10757" PostId="7915" Text="Try the links now...I tried to link them with better formatting, but I seem to be missing something. Anyway, gamut is very dependent on paper, particularly the white point of the paper. It is not surprising to me that full gamut can only be achieved on a small range of brand-specific paper, at a specific DPI. That may be why Epson has introduced Ultrachrome HDR + White...they may be trying to control white point more to expand that gamut coverage to other papers." CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:59:55.990" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10758" PostId="7937" Score="1" Text="Just a quick note from my own experience...a basic camo suit...coat, pants, hat...can go a LONG way towards getting you close to your subjects...even birds. Even with a supertelephoto lens of 500mm...for a frame-filling bird shot you still need to get pretty darn close." CreationDate="2011-01-31T04:08:59.550" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10759" PostId="7915" Text="@jrista: Yes, the links seem fixed. Yes, they can undoubtedly both achieve 90% under a variety of circumstances -- but saying that about the Epson is a bit like implying that a Prius is as fast as a Formula 1 race car because they can both do at least 60 MPH." CreationDate="2011-01-31T04:12:06.343" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10760" PostId="7915" Text="As far as longevity goes, I probably should have phrased things differently. My real intent wasn't to say that Epson was dramatically superior, only that (unlike the situation with some dye-based printers) they're not achieving a wide gamut at the expense of print life." CreationDate="2011-01-31T04:16:38.443" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10761" PostId="7937" Score="3" Text="possible duplicate of [What size lens is recommended for flying bird photography?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4255/what-size-lens-is-recommended-for-flying-bird-photography)" CreationDate="2011-01-31T04:25:19.607" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10762" PostId="7937" Text="You may see my recommendation for a duplicate question, it is in the $1200 IIRC: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4255/what-size-lens-is-recommended-for-flying-bird-photography/4261#4261" CreationDate="2011-01-31T04:26:15.533" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10763" PostId="7915" Text="I think your analogy is exactly what is wrong with your approach here. A better analogy would be comparing two competing F1 cars that can reach 230mph, but one can reach 260mph under certain circumstances while the other might only reach 240mph. The gap is not nearly as large as you seem to think, and I think your spreading some misinformation about how &quot;bad&quot; you seem to think Canon is in comparison. I see that far too much from long-term Epson diehards who've been using Epson for many years. The game has changed, and I think people need to recognize that. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:12:40.857" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10764" PostId="7900" Text="This is exactly what I did, and it covers all the bases.  Sometimes I'm annoyed at having to swap lenses or carry multiples, like when going on vacation, but when starting out, it didn't make sense to me to get the &quot;superzoom&quot; 18-200mm." CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:28:26.123" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="10765" PostId="7034" Text="I've been drooling over this one for a few months.  I've read one reviewer (Ken Rockwell) who doesn't think it's any better than the kit 18-55 mm, but absolutely everyone else seems to swear by it.  Some day, I will probably get this one used from lensrentals.com -- and even still, it will be $800.  But it's worth it?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:31:24.327" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="10766" PostId="6949" Text="You can get the EF 50mm f/1.8 for $80-$100 -- is the f/1.4 really worth 3-4x that?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:33:41.340" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="10767" PostId="7902" Text="Thanks Tom. Olympus XZ-1 looks great." CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:46:54.857" UserId="1706" />
  <row Id="10768" PostId="7915" Text="Well, I've looked at prints from a 4900 and a 9500.2 side-by-side, and the difference looked pretty large to me. To somebody used to older Canons, the 9500.2 is undoubtedly a *huge* improvement. If you're happy with it, that's great -- but don't try to tell me that I should ignore what I see." CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:55:13.273" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10769" PostId="7943" Text="Now, that's the level of geekness I was looking for! Will try it and report soon. thanks!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T09:25:14.347" UserId="1756" />
  <row Id="10770" PostId="7914" Text="@jrista - Thanks a lot for the well thought out answer - it helps me with my decision making too." CreationDate="2011-01-31T09:43:30.897" UserId="3591" />
  <row Id="10771" PostId="7947" Score="1" Text="Can you post a sample image?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T09:45:02.470" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="10772" PostId="7934" Text="Thanks Zeb. Actually, the aim of this question isn't so much a comparison between Nikon and Canon, but how to enhance the quality of our pictures. I don't mind upgrading our kit, but I wanted to find the bottleneck." CreationDate="2011-01-31T09:58:40.083" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10773" PostId="7922" Text="Yes, I just need to obtain permission from her friend to post her picture. RAW processing: to be honest, they just open their images in Photoshop and adjust brightness and contrast a bit. But AFAIK, no other filters are applied. Then they export to JPEG (reasonable compression)." CreationDate="2011-01-31T10:02:26.910" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="10776" PostId="7954" Text="this seems quite complicated, i'd go for the dslr automation software and some scripting!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T11:19:47.710" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10777" PostId="6877" Text="@Greg, yes, 'expert - serious - casual' would work well." CreationDate="2011-01-31T11:26:10.607" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10778" PostId="7955" Text="+1 for hard manual focus on focusing screen'less cameras." CreationDate="2011-01-31T11:55:58.273" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10780" PostId="7885" Text="excellent question!  " CreationDate="2011-01-31T12:04:30.020" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10781" PostId="7954" Score="1" Text="It's really, really difficult to use film stock that's been loaded backwards in a DSLR. Really difficult. And that's the whole point of Redscale -- take the film out of the equation, and it's not Redscale anymore. A DSLR (or any digital camera) is out of the running altogether." CreationDate="2011-01-31T12:13:43.780" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10782" PostId="7911" Text="For posterity's sake, note that the Vivitar 283 needs the accessory VariPower module (it plugs in where the removable sensor module goes) to manually adjust the power output. 283s aren't hard to find, but VariPowers are." CreationDate="2011-01-31T12:57:35.940" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10783" PostId="7919" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/1473/21" CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:09:28.877" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10784" PostId="7888" Text="Jay should I also then consider a USM lens for focusing? I don't think auto focus will be that beneficial for artwork, but if I can sit at the laptop and make sure everything is set right, it would be great not have to get up again to focus it. I wonder if the EOS utility can do that? Or can it do that somehow anyway with a standard lens?&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:21:04.767" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="10785" PostId="7945" Text="I dont' think I need it wireless but now I know about the system I'll keep it in mind. Thanks. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:22:03.410" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="10786" PostId="6676" Text="I do have a D3100 too, and I'm using AF-C most of the time and hold the AE/AF-L button to recompose if needed. This works fine for me." CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:37:37.343" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="10787" PostId="2973" Text="FWIW, Hipstamatic now includes EXIF data. Make a feature request to Plastiq Camera to do the same." CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:40:29.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10788" PostId="7919" Text="Not a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2973/insert-exif-dates-from-file-modified-date — that's about creating an EXIF timestamp when none exists." CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:46:29.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10789" PostId="7919" Text="And http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1473/batch-adjusting-the-date-but-not-the-time-of-photos-imported-into-lightroom is too lightroom-specific." CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:47:59.547" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10790" PostId="7962" Text="Someone asked basically this question over the weekend, but phrased it as &quot;predict the future of cameras&quot;, causing it to get deleted. But I think the basic question is interesting!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T14:02:19.013" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10791" PostId="7962" Text="+1 i'm also interested. some parts of the question have already been answered in some other more specific questions!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T14:10:01.813" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10792" PostId="7962" Text="I'm almost sure that link-bombing won't be an acceptable answer, but i'm reading &quot;The Camera&quot;, by Ansel Adams, which has some good information on the subject. I don't know enough to even begin to outline a good answer to this :P" CreationDate="2011-01-31T14:13:17.367" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10793" PostId="7962" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7963/ for the more perceptual/psychological side of this." CreationDate="2011-01-31T14:15:34.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10794" PostId="7963" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7962/ for a question about the more mechanical aspects of the human eye." CreationDate="2011-01-31T14:16:08.593" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10795" PostId="7945" Text="The &quot;ATG AK1&quot; is a questionable product: http://photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00XQ5w So far there is no proof that it actually exists." CreationDate="2011-01-31T14:20:28.900" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10796" PostId="7942" Score="1" Text="Note that you can achieve the image size of 500mm at 1x by means of a 300mm lens at 1.6x on the 60D (5 pounds, f/2.8, about 2/3 the price).  The 100-400 mm zoom recommended by @jrista covers that ground well, at a much lower price yet." CreationDate="2011-01-31T15:49:03.370" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10797" PostId="6031" Text="The &quot;ATG AK1&quot; is a questionable product: photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00XQ5w So far there is no proof that it actually exists. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:34:08.553" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10798" PostId="7962" Score="1" Text="I've made the first question, but I deleted my self because some users started to complain about its subjectivity. I'm glad you could ask the same question in a way nobody complains!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:38:00.830" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10799" PostId="6949" Text="I've had both, and voted with my feet: No, the 1.4 isn't worth it. Neither build nor optical quality is better than medium, wide open it is rather soft and the autofocus motor is notoriously vulnerable to impacts on the front tube of the lens and is easy to break. I sold mine and got a 1.8 instead. I'd take a long hard look at the Sigma 50/1.4 if you need something beefier than the 1.8 instead." CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:38:42.403" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10800" PostId="6031" Text="How much did you get that Canon ACK-E2 and from what site?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:38:57.963" UserId="2965" />
  <row Id="10801" PostId="6933" Text="Faster focusing and constant length. More pleasant to use as a general-purpose lens as a result; for macro neither feature is particularly important. The USM focus motor allows full-time manual focusing, this may or may not be imporant to you in macro applications (but to be useful this needs you to decouple AF from the shutter button)." CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:40:49.190" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10802" PostId="7888" Text="USM won't make a huge difference one way or the other... Any AF lens will work. It's not that you get any *different* methods of focusing than if you were pushing the shutter button halfway down, or using the Live View AF, but I can see how using the Live View you could check the composition from your computer, trip the AF, and then fire. The Live View AF isn't *fast* by any means... But it'd work..." CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:42:57.953" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10803" PostId="7925" Score="1" Text="Also, if you were to use the equivalent Canon lens (http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_35mm_f_2) your results would be a little more accurate. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T16:45:23.743" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="10804" PostId="7942" Text="Aye, Whuber is correct. On a 1.6x crop body, the 100-400 lens is effectively 162-648mm from a FoV perspective. VERY handy focal range. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:24:52.527" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10805" PostId="7966" Score="1" Text="Regarding resolution, which has been discussed a bit on one of my other answers, the 1/60th of a degree (1 arcminute) is for 20/20 vision. While this is &quot;normal&quot; for most people, there are millions of people who see 20/10 as adults. Children also have better acuity, in the 20/10 or even 20/8 range, which is around 0.4 - 0.75 arcminute. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:34:07.460" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10806" PostId="7937" Text="I'd also advocate renting several lenses from someplace like borrowlenses.com to find out what you like before throwing down $X000 (*note I'm affiliated w/borrowlenses.com :))" CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:43:30.890" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10807" PostId="7932" Score="1" Text="That looks like a neat product, and I may indeed have to look into getting one for other purposes. However, unless you can point me at a film camera that's compatible with it, it answers a different question than the one I believe I have asked. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:44:53.843" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10808" PostId="7948" Text="While this is not the answer I was hoping for, it does seem an honest and likely-accurate answer to my actual question(s); +1. One thought, though, before I consider whether to &quot;accept&quot; it: film SLRs *have* had some degree of being able to &quot;communicate 'with the outside world.'&quot; for a while - eg my Canon EOS Elan, from c. 1992, had a bar code scanner (and a booklet of situations you might encounter, each with a barcode), that it would talk to via an IR link. And it has a remote. The question, then, is whether any of these things could ever directly dial in exposure settings. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:57:42.297" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10809" PostId="6949" Text="Staale, I would cite a review that says exactly the opposite: &#xA;&#xA;http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/canon-ef-50mm-f-1.4-usm-lens-review.aspx&#xA;&#xA;In this review, f1.8 is presented as the poorest one of the family (f1.8,f1.4,f1.2L) for build quality, MF ring (&quot;barely usable&quot;), distance window (absent) and background blur (or &quot;bokeh&quot;) quality." CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:01:15.367" UserId="3231" />
  <row Id="10810" PostId="7954" Text="Hmm, changing neutral density filters is indeed an interesting idea. As is building a robot to control things... Though I think if I go the latter route, I'll more likely build a robot that moves the dials and control rings of the camera, a la a robotic follow-focus device (and perhaps even using just such a gear, but on an aperture ring for an old mechanical camera, instead of on the focus ring). Still, +1 for giving me the idea to do that. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:02:10.653" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10811" PostId="6949" Text="And another comparison where the f1.4 wins: http://photo.net/equipment/canon/ef50/" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:07:37.993" UserId="3231" />
  <row Id="10812" PostId="7948" Text="Sorry, I probably should have stated more clearly that prior to the dSLR era, 35mm cameras weren't really designed to have *realtime* 2-way communication with the outside world such as would be necessary to control a camera via a computer... I'll update the answer. I can think of a couple of ways to give such cameras some more 'advanced' control, however it wouldn't be an 'off-the-shelf' solution, nor would it be possible to do without custom programming, some electronics knowledge in order to build an interface, and the willingness to dig around inside a camera... :-) " CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:16:52.053" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10813" PostId="7948" Text="...and (probably fairly obviously) there's not exactly a ton of people clamoring for this type of functionality, so in all likelihood if it's going to be done, it's going to be done at a hobbyist level. :-)" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:20:28.043" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10814" PostId="7854" Score="1" Text="To complete this point, LiveView can give you the accurate DoF preview when pressing the DoF preview button." CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:29:59.267" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10815" PostId="7962" Text="This belongs on biology.se... no wait, photography.se... arrgh!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:40:37.137" UserId="63" />
  <row Id="10816" PostId="7854" Text="30D doesn't have LiveView.  But that will be a nice feature when I eventually get a new camera.  If they're so incomplete, why do DSLRs bother with glass, instead of electronic, viewfinders? ;)" CreationDate="2011-01-31T18:56:26.497" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10817" PostId="7970" Text="Wikipedia content is not licensed in a way which allows it to be cut-and-pasted into stackexchange answers. And, this is less useful than a bare link to wikipedia would be, since it loses the internal links and, crucially, the 'citation needed' tag this whole section carries there." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:02:57.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10818" PostId="7970" Text="Plus, that's not a stellar example of wikipedia at its best. The three points about visual perception seem to be selected at random and aren't very well explained. And the stuff above that is likewise a bit sketchy." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:04:35.927" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10819" PostId="7915" Text="Well, if you compare the 4900 to a 9500 II, there is a difference. I don't think it is as subjectively &quot;huge&quot; as you are making out, but you are comparing Lucia ink to Ultrachrome HDR ink, which is an unfair comparison. That was why I compared Lucia to Ultrachrome K3 before. If you want an objective comparison with an honest outcome, you need to OBJECTIVELY compare prints from a 4900 with, say, an iPF 6350, which uses Lucia EX. My problem with your comparisons is they are VERY biased and subjective, and rather unfair...which is the bent I get from most Epson diehards." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:20:08.637" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10820" PostId="7915" Text="I should also state that I am not particularly attached to either brand. I like both Epson and Canon printers...and right now, Epson REALLY intrigues me with their new `Ultracrhome HDR + White` ink. I am not exactly sure where they can go with that, or how broadly applicable it may be, but it sounds like they could give the printer some control over white point with a white ink. That does bring a nice new facet to the game, and should produce some intriguing competition in the future. I just think there needs to be more OBJECTIVE discussion about inks from Epson and Canon these days." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:22:41.740" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10821" PostId="7971" Text="Which flash?  The built-in pop-up flash or an external flash on the hotshoe or ??" CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:26:09.063" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10822" PostId="6781" Text="The 5DII's AF system isn't very confident in single-shot mode and is terrible in servo mode. I think the D700 is a better camera in this market. I shoot the 5DII and it's a great camera, but it certainly does need some improvement!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:27:59.440" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="10823" PostId="7971" Text="Built in pop-up." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:28:00.043" UserId="3609" />
  <row Id="10824" PostId="6949" Text="Reviews, schmeviews :) All I can say is that I was massively underwhelmed by it. I'm not saying that the 50/1.8 is _better_, you understand, but that the 50/1.4 is nowhere near enough on an improvement upon it to justify the price. Besides, there are better fifties out there these days, the Canon 1.4 is a very old design optically." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:31:01.617" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10825" PostId="7971" Text="I guess I'm more or less looking for if this is normal or not." CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:37:02.033" UserId="3609" />
  <row Id="10826" PostId="1700" Text="Although with a flash with a GN of 12 or so, not much power to bounce even with a mirror. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T20:10:51.520" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10827" PostId="7981" Text="If your camera is on auto white balance, it chooses the white balance and stores the information in the raw file. Aperture uses this information by default. The user interface is buggy, but if you select the &quot;white balance&quot; check box, and then click the &quot;reset&quot; button, you will have the original white balance settings and you can read the values that were chosen by the camera." CreationDate="2011-01-31T20:48:07.060" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="10828" PostId="7982" Text="Was this meant to be a comment on Pearsonartphoto's answer?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T20:52:03.310" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10829" PostId="7921" Text="That's for Nikon..." CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:10:59.140" UserId="2583" />
  <row Id="10830" PostId="7986" Text="Google Translate is funny! But this article is informative." CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:13:35.973" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10831" PostId="7978" Score="1" Text="It's amazing the first time you do an enlargement from a 1:1 macro shot and see the detail the lens and sensor are capable of catching. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:52:38.743" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10832" PostId="7974" Score="1" Text="In addition to the magnification (1:1), the focal length is important. 50mm and 65mm lenses are fine for still-lifes, but if you try sticking that lens next to a creature you're likely to see it leave quickly. My favorite length is Nikor's 105mm &quot;micro&quot;. It's not a super-fast focusing lens, but it lets you stay a foot away, which gives you a fighting chance to get butterflies and spiders. If you're after more skittish things, then you'll probably want something with even longer reach, like a 200mm. That's especially important if you're after dangerous things like rattlesnakes. " CreationDate="2011-01-31T21:57:01.110" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10833" PostId="7979" Text="65mm is seriously pushing it for insect eyes because you'd be right on top of them. Insects I tried shooting with a 105mm were nervous because I was too close. Maybe chilling them so they are sluggish would allow the 65mm, but for field work I think something longer is needed." CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:00:37.720" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="10834" PostId="7978" Score="1" Text="This answer doesn't address the question. What is so special about 1:1? Is it a special milestone? If so, why? If not, do people treat it as one?" CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:06:38.803" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="10835" PostId="7983" Text="I would even go as far to say that the eye is one of the most (or the most) advanced structure in the world." CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:15:41.943" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="10836" PostId="7980" Text="It's likely that in TTL mode, your flash isn't firing at full power, which decreases the recycle time mentioned by ysap." CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:26:47.617" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10837" PostId="7992" Text="Yeah I was thinking this as well. I'm going to setup a test when I get home tonight." CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:44:15.730" UserId="1431" />
  <row Id="10838" PostId="7977" Text="The biggest compromise new macro users notice is normally the limited depth of field. The larger the magnification the less depth of field you get. So while you might be tempted to grab the MP-E 65 because of the 5:1 number, it's a very specialised lens. Great for flat subjects :)" CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:46:55.493" UserId="3617" />
  <row Id="10839" PostId="7921" Text="They make it for Canon, it's a superb lens.  It is a bit expensive for a beginner and it's a prime so you lose a lot of versatility." CreationDate="2011-01-31T22:50:04.507" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="10840" PostId="7977" Text="Yea, there are a lot of complications with macro photography in general and the closer you get to the subject the more those issues are an issue :)" CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:12:44.983" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10841" PostId="7981" Text="You can also double-click any adjustment slider in Aperture to reset it to the default value. For the color temperature, this is the value the camera recorded into your RAW file." CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:23:45.777" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="10842" PostId="7995" Text="I don't understand the difference? Seems everyone loves it even for close-ups. I'm still unsure which to get? I don't need USM and I don't want to spend $400. But I do need a good macro lens. Artwork size ranges from from 9&quot;x12&quot; to 30&quot;x40&quot; maximum" CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:29:26.903" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="10843" PostId="7971" Text="Just what is your exposure set to when in M mode? Do you use high ISO, large aperture, slow shutter speed to let available light do most of the heavy lifting so the flash only has to add a dash of light to round it all off, or is your exposure set so that the flash has to provide all the illumination so that it has to fire at full oomph every time? If so, that is your answer right there." CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:32:26.153" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10844" PostId="7979" Text="Don't let the 65mm f/2.8 specification of the MP-E fool you. Both are measured at infinity. The lens cannot actually focus at infinity. It cannot focus at anything _like_ infinity, so both numbers are actually rather meaningless for practical purposes. At 5:1 magnification it accordions to almost nine inches in length. It is not your typical 65mm setup!" CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:36:23.480" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="10845" PostId="7995" Score="1" Text="Macro lenses are typically defined as a lens that can record an image at 1:1 onto the sensor or film - the image projected by the lens is the same size (or bigger) than the actual object being photographed.  See this recent question for more info: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7974/why-is-11-desirable-for-a-macro-lens" CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:42:57.327" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="10846" PostId="7979" Text="@reg - LOL, my only experience with shooting bug eyes are eyes of a *dead* fly..." CreationDate="2011-01-31T23:44:47.107" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10847" PostId="8002" Score="2" Text="&quot;A device that is able to reproduce the entire visible color space is an unrealized goal within the engineering of color displays and printing processes. While modern techniques allow increasingly good approximations, the complexity of these systems often makes them impractical.&quot; - [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamut)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T00:23:42.187" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="10848" PostId="8005" Score="1" Text="Human perception is both color and monochrome. While studies show that humans can generally see 2-3 million colors (one study stated 10 million), we can see far finer gradations of *tone*. The total number of &quot;colors&quot; reproducible by 10bit or 16bit images includes both degree of chromaticity (hue and saturation) as well as luminance. The total number of &quot;colors&quot; perceived by the eye is pretty much the same for any bit depth, however the fineness of tonal gradations DOES improve as bit depth is increased. Increased bit depth is more about levels of brightness than volume of distinct colors." CreationDate="2011-02-01T00:45:17.097" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10849" PostId="8006" Score="1" Text="Are you talking about duplicating the &quot;inter&quot; frames, or interpolating the frames from adjucent &quot;intra&quot; frames?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T00:47:30.143" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10850" PostId="8002" Score="1" Text="I'm certainly not trying to reproduce the entire visible spectrum but the 10-bpc up to the display seems to be practical with pro-sumer products. I am going to buy a nice display anyway so I just want to take full advantage of it for printing. Also trying to improve my understanding. It may be that 10-bit makes no difference in printing and that gamut is the primary deciding factor in print quality. I doubt it, but maybe." CreationDate="2011-02-01T00:50:10.333" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="10851" PostId="8005" Text="@jrista: The source I quoted included luminance or brightness in the calculation - &quot;1,000,000: the number of colors (combinations of hue, saturation and **brightness**) that the eye can discriminate under optimal laboratory conditions.&quot; If increased bit depth was more about levels of brightness then couldn't we adequately represent perceivable colors with (say) 6-bits of hue, 6-bits of saturation and 12-bits of value? So far as I know, no cameras, software or output device follows an asymmetric model." CreationDate="2011-02-01T00:57:36.607" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="10852" PostId="8006" Text="Why the 10 second processing time? Can you speed that up, e.g. with a faster memory card?  Why the 2 hour limit? Can you increase that with a better battery or an external power supply?  Do you really need 30 photos/second? Have you tried 10?  How long of a video do you want when you're done? 16 seconds, 16 minutes...?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T00:59:41.007" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10853" PostId="8005" Text="Great comments guys, thanks. My anecdotal comment would be that people who use 10-bpc displays are reporting MUCH better image quality with all other factors being equal. I don't have any statistical or scientific studies to point to but the anecdotal evidence is pretty convincing that moving from 8-bpc (~16 Million) to 10-bpc (~Billion) displays with the same gamut makes a big difference. In fact using the same 10-bpc display and providing it 8-bpc data seems to vastly different quality. I would argue this means that we are definitely capable of perceiving &gt; ~16 Million colors." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:03:49.270" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="10854" PostId="8005" Score="2" Text="@Red: &quot;If increased bit depth was more about levels of brightness then couldn't we adequately represent perceivable colors with (say) 6-bits of hue, 6-bits of saturation and 12-bits of value?&quot; EXCELLENT QUESTION! Assuming we had a display that was capable of generating pixel colors based on those specific values, yes. Currently, displays and digital sensors work off of a 3-channel RGB model...so, no, we can't do that with current technology. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:05:41.547" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10855" PostId="7994" Score="2" Text="The costly about a printer is not its initial price but the colour and paper. The &quot;we reduce this price grrrrrreatly&quot;-scheme is just a nice scam." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:07:36.910" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10857" PostId="8005" Text="The RGB model is very poor for representing color, HSL is a better model, as it appropriately separates hue (360 degrees), saturation (color purity), and luminance (level of intensity). The human eye has two separate devices that sense these things. **Cones** are our color-sensitive &quot;photosites&quot;, however there are only about 6-7 million of them. **Rods** are far more numerous, numbering about 120 million, and are responsible for sensing luminance over a monstrous dynamic range. Because of this dichotomy, we are far more sensitive to changes in luminance than to changes in chromaticity." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:09:26.720" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10858" PostId="8005" Score="2" Text="As someone who spends thousands of hours of my free time screwing around with color calibration of both my computer screens and my printers, and my recent experimentations with Canon's 16-bpc XPS driver, I can personally vouch that higher bit depth produces considerable improvement in tonal gradations in print. Comparing my own Apple CinemaDisplay 30&quot; screen to a LaCie 730 (14-bpc display), the same difference is very apparent. Posterization and aliasing in smooth gradients are non-existent when rendered with higher bit depth." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:12:26.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10859" PostId="8005" Text="@jrista: so are you saying that many of those 10 bits expended on hue and saturation are wasted and 10 bits may be insufficient for luminance?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:12:40.733" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="10860" PostId="8005" Text="@Red: It is kind of difficult to explain how those bits are used to produce hue, saturation, and luminance. The problem with the RGB model is that you are only blending different luminance values for three specific color channels. Certain mixes of red, green, and blue, at varying intensities, produce certain colors. With an RGB model, there are times when you have to increase the intensity of a single channel far more than others (i.e. magenta is a blend of maximum red and blue, and zero green.) " CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:17:47.927" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10861" PostId="8005" Text="@jrista, LaCie 730!!! I now bow before you, my king." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:19:05.240" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="10862" PostId="8005" Score="2" Text="With 8-bit color, you only have 255 distinct levels of luminance for each channel, which limits both color and tonal fineness. To create specific colors with such limited tonal range, you have to make certain compromises on which distinct colors are reproducible, and in doing so, you also limit distinct levels of tone for any given color (since you are not blending hue, sat. and luminence...you are blending distinct levels of luminance of red, green and blue.) RGB is, as you mentioned, rather wasteful. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:20:53.040" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10863" PostId="8005" Text="With 10-bpc color, you have 1024 levels, which expands the range of *accurately* reproducible color (probably to the maximum of 2-3 million), while also expanding the range of usable tones. Again, there is some waste, since all you are really blending to form distinct colors is the *luminance* of red, green, and blue. If we hypothesize about an HSL display...luminance would indeed be INDEPENDENT of chromaticity, and that expands your range of distinct tones to a vast number. I honestly can't speak to the plausibility of such a display, but if possible, I think it would be better." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:23:25.470" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10864" PostId="8005" Text="@stephenmm: HA! I totally wish it was mine, but alas, no. The day my CinemaDisplay dies, however, there is no question that I'll buy whatever top of the line LaCie is available at the time. There is no question that screen is the best on the planet, and I totally swear by RGB LED now. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:25:21.957" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10865" PostId="8005" Text="@jrista If you were to spend &lt; $1500 what display would you buy right now? Would you go down to a 24&quot; just to get the RGB LED? " CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:29:56.133" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="10866" PostId="8003" Text="Do you ever/would you ever go to a lab to print your &gt; 8-bpc files?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:32:54.367" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="10867" PostId="8005" Text="If you are talking about Apple's new LED display, it is not actually an RGB LED display...it still uses blue led with yellow phosphor. I actually don't know if Eizo has any RGB LED displays right now, and the LaCie 730 is about $3200. I really want the LaCie, but I am currently saving my money for a 5D III, which I think will serve my interests better. I would also need to get a video card with a DisplayPort to support the 14-bpc output of that screen. If I had to buy a new screen today...I'd get the Apple 27&quot; LED CinemaDisplay. Its only $900, and produces better color than I have now." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:33:36.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10868" PostId="8000" Text="I have heard that sometimes sending in a lens / camera pair will optimize for that combination, but cause new or worse problems with other lenses. Anyone else experience this? Maybe this deserves another question?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:43:51.930" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="10869" PostId="7992" Text="A ruler works, but if you want to be fancy, you can use this http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart" CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:51:18.377" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="10870" PostId="8008" Text="Already tought about that, but I want something reversibly (not like soldering the bare leads), so I have to figure out a good way to do it. Probably make a piece of plastic with the same size of the battery, stick some contacts to it and take out the wires trough the middle of the &quot;fake&quot; battery." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:54:50.723" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10871" PostId="8007" Text="That's a good idea, but I want something easier. Those frames can perfectly be generated with a codec so I'll see how to do it. And, twixtor doesn't have Linux version." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:59:19.020" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10872" PostId="8008" Text="I think we're saying the same thing. Most people just buy a cheap Chinese knockoff battery for their particular camera. You can generally find 'em on eBay (and elsewhere) for pennies..." CreationDate="2011-02-01T01:59:47.647" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10873" PostId="7870" Text="@flpgdt, I have successfully used &quot;NTFS Undelete&quot; to get back stuff that I had accidentally deleted (stuff that did NOT go into the Recycle Bin)." CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:01:53.673" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="10874" PostId="7994" Text="Hi @Kelly! I went ahead and removed the 'rebate' section of your post as posting on rebates goes against the community guidelines (see discussion on Meta here): http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/503/where-can-i-find-deals-to-buy-photo-editing-softwares " CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:02:29.890" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10875" PostId="8003" Text="The only lab I have really used is BigPhotoHelp.com, and they use HP printers that I am pretty certain do not do any more than 8-bpc printing. They accept 16-bit TIFF files in the Adobe RGB gamut, however it is still best to convert to sRGB and 8-bit TIFF files for lab printing. Printers and RIP's that support XPS 16-bpc printing are VERY rare, as the technology is pretty new and fairly &quot;unvetted&quot;. I happen to have a Canon PIXMA Pro9500 II, and I happily stumbled upon the new driver a couple months ago, and been experimenting ever since." CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:07:12.887" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10876" PostId="8003" Text="With bright, pure white photo rag paper (no optical brighteners), there is a definite, if maybe still subjective, feel of much finer tonal gradations with the 16-bpc driver and EPP Pro. As far as detail goes, the Canon EPP Pro software really isn't the best RIP, and hard edges don't really look as good as when I print from say qimage (although again, that is a subjective comparison of my own.) I think there is a lot of potential in 16-bpc printing, but software is lagging farther behind than hardware." CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:10:20.497" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10877" PostId="7997" Text="I undeleted this because it is actually a good answer. If you still want it deleted, go ahead and nuke it. ;P" CreationDate="2011-02-01T02:14:12.083" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10878" PostId="7994" Text="Just wanna point out that you don't really need the kit lens. The quality isn't great, and it's useless for macro. It'll be much more economical if you were to just get the body only." CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:00:12.633" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10879" PostId="7997" Text="Ah, I deleted it because I misread the op, who mentioned 50F1.8, and assumed them meant, the 50 2.5" CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:01:01.637" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="10880" PostId="7994" Text="the EF-S 18-55 IS is actually a decent lens, all things consider." CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:03:01.163" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="10881" PostId="7964" Text="These are good points. I'd love to hear some  of your thoughts on the latter part of the question — how they relate specifically to making photographs. Maybe some of it follows obviously, but..." CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:43:47.930" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10882" PostId="8010" Score="8" Text="First step: make a backup. Second step: check your backup. Third step: start editing ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:52:27.563" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10883" PostId="7983" Text="I don't think &quot;mediocre&quot; is an unfair characterization. It's certainly amazing and I don't take my eyesight for granted, but literally, on a scale which doesn't give extra points for size or from being grown out of living cells, the specifications of the optics are nothing amazing (especially when you consider quality control and sample variation!)." CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:53:45.890" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10884" PostId="7983" Text="I do really like your point about thinking like a camera rather than the other way around, though. +1 for that." CreationDate="2011-02-01T03:54:20.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10885" PostId="7990" Text="Thanks! A lot of interesting stuff there, even if it rambles a bit. I think some of the relation to photography you're making isn't completely thought out, though. E.g., a photo with everything in focus seems to mimic human perception better than something with selective center focus, because scanning a scene is an unconscious action. And, &quot;depriving&quot; the viewer of &quot;the freedom to look&quot; is inherent in a photograph, which makes a fixed selection of focus _and_ of point of view and field of view; there's definitely something interesting to talk about there but you just hint at it in this answer." CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:04:37.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10886" PostId="7964" Text="@mattdm: Will do then." CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:08:03.027" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10887" PostId="8000" Text="@AngerClown: yes, definitely. One should send in all of the lenses so they can be matched as a set. But I disagree with Staale S; I don't think there's any reason to consider careful in-the-field adjustment to be inferior as long as everything is within the range of the adjustment feature." CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:08:03.987" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10888" PostId="8012" Text="I use a 5D. :) And yeah I understand that primes are better in general, but what I want to know is that is it that much better that it would justify me lugging around 3 lenses when walking around or travelling?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:10:00.303" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10889" PostId="8010" Text="possible duplicate of [Any good tutorials for learning how to post-process images?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/156/any-good-tutorials-for-learning-how-to-post-process-images)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:16:03.723" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10890" PostId="8010" Score="2" Text="Leonidas has a excellent point, but you should also understand that a lot of post-processing programs (Picasa, iPhoto, Lightroom) are &quot;non-destructive&quot;; you can undo the edits as necessary and get back to the original image. Still, you do need backups. See this question for more info: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/292/what-method-is-best-to-take-backups-of-your-digital-photos" CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:21:43.420" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10891" PostId="7964" Text="@Pearsonartphoto — Thanks. :) " CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:34:05.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10892" PostId="7983" Score="1" Text="I have to second the point about thinking like a camera. That is one of the most powerful compositional tools I've learned, and it has done more for my photography than anything else, I think. From a mechanical and optical perspective, the organic eye and a technological camera function very similarly. Its the &quot;computer&quot; behind them that processes the information...a camera just processes it differently than the human brain. Nice thing about human brains...they can learn....and...they can be quite tasty for those of us who are more undead than alive." CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:52:53.323" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10893" PostId="7964" Score="1" Text="Regarding point 3...I would say that we see *binocularly*, rather than in 3 dimensions, where as a camera sees *monocularly*. We have the *perception* of depth because of this, however the image projected by our eyes is still two dimensional. We can easily close one eye and see exactly like a camera...which is usually the case when peering through a viewfinder and composing a scene." CreationDate="2011-02-01T04:56:41.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10894" PostId="8010" Score="1" Text="@craig - Picasa is destructive. Lightroom is not. I have never used iPhoto." CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:00:17.397" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10895" PostId="8015" Score="4" Text="Note that rotation of images, other than by multiple of 90-degrees, is very destructive to image quality. If your camera does not have a built-in level, consider a hot-shoe mounted one. For an example and explanation, see: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/image-interpolation.htm" CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:03:14.023" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10896" PostId="8006" Score="1" Text="Wow, 10-14 second seems like a *very* long time.  Are you sure you don't have dark frame subtraction (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK_User_Manual#Dark_Frame_Subtraction) turned on (it doesn't sound like it, because DFS time should match exposure time, but I don't understand what else could cause a 10+ second delay)?  If you do, just turn it off, take one dark frame photo when you're done (cover the lens with a hat; do it last so the hot pixels will all have finished warming up), and subtract the dark frame with software." CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:14:28.957" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10897" PostId="8010" Text="@Itai: Google claims Picasa for Mac is non-destructive: http://googleblog.blogspot.com/2009/01/introducing-picasa-for-mac-at-macworld.html. I couldn't get an official Google source for the destructivity of the Windows version, but a lot of other sites claimed it was non-destructive. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:24:00.837" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10898" PostId="8010" Score="1" Text="Always shoot RAW. Do what it takes to make it look 'better'. Keep a copy of the main RAW file. Do not overdo it. If possible, make several versions, compare and sort out the best." CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:31:15.083" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="10899" PostId="8015" Score="1" Text="@Itai - that's interesting to know, and great examples they show in that article. Thanks for sharing." CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:33:38.560" UserId="3591" />
  <row Id="10900" PostId="8006" Text="It might be that, but since I'm not shooting in RAW, that option is disabled (AFAIK). Without CHDK, my camera let me take a 15s photo and the processing time is almost the same. It seems like Canon has a built in DFS function for long exposures..." CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:37:27.957" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10902" PostId="7937" Text="You can also try 70-200mm f/2.8 (non IS) with 2X TC (140-400mm f/5.6). This setup gives you enough sharpness and also you can use the 70-200mm without TC for great portraits =)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:43:54.770" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="10903" PostId="8006" Text="@drewbenn You were right, the DFS is enabled by default, but I managed to disable it with CHDK, the photo appears instantly after the shutter closes. It was weird for me, how can a DIGIC IV be so slow? Now the photos are superfast!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T05:47:24.033" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10904" PostId="8011" Text="Changed the title so it's more directly related to what you asked, rather than what it was implying :)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:14:21.567" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="10905" PostId="8011" Text="@Alan Thanks. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:16:38.553" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10906" PostId="8022" Score="1" Text="Good point. I forgot to take DoF into account." CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:50:03.177" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="10907" PostId="8011" Score="1" Text="It is so very worth it to carry 3 prime lenses around vs the 24-70L.  The 24-70L is very not sharp at f2.8 and its much larger (physically) and heavier.  You will miss the thin DoF, wide aperture shooting and lightness (of any individual lens) vs the 24-70L, not to mention the sharpness." CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:53:53.860" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10908" PostId="8022" Text="I came in just to point out that you'd lack the ability to get as deep an OOF shot as a fast prime." CreationDate="2011-02-01T06:57:10.467" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="10909" PostId="8006" Text="Let us know how that affects battery life!  I would guess that it more than doubles the battery life, since the camera also has to process (subtract) the dark frames it takes.  If it does, one spare battery would get you up to a 24-second video, or maybe a bit longer if you keep charging batteries when you take them out (though I think the AC adapter kit is still a better idea, and maybe worth the $50 for your use case)." CreationDate="2011-02-01T07:07:11.237" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="10910" PostId="8021" Score="2" Text="Stick a diode in series with the power supply; diodes have a voltage drop of about .6 or .7 volts." CreationDate="2011-02-01T07:41:07.447" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10911" PostId="8021" Text="Also the reason the camera says 4.3 when the battery says 3.7 is because the fresh-charged voltage of a 3.7v Li-ion battery is about 4.3 volts. You probably don't want to exceed 4.3 volts." CreationDate="2011-02-01T07:44:22.870" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="10912" PostId="7978" Text="@Oddthinking Not sure what you mean there -- the 1:1 is the classification of true macro, as it says in the answer..." CreationDate="2011-02-01T07:52:54.070" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10913" PostId="8021" Text="What about using the voltage regulator and a diode in serial connection to drop 0.7 V. Is that valid?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T08:00:56.527" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="10914" PostId="7977" Text="Thanks for the great answer, Shizam." CreationDate="2011-02-01T08:36:49.587" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="10915" PostId="8015" Score="1" Text="@Itai: &quot;Very destructive&quot;!? Sure, if your original pictures are e.g. line drawings, the results look bad after any rotation, but have you actually tried it with *real-world digital photos* (which are always a bit smooth at 100% zoom before sharpening)?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T09:16:43.990" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="10916" PostId="2973" Text="@mattdm - Yep, they have done for a few versions now. Makes things much easier!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T09:25:47.757" UserId="86" />
  <row Id="10917" PostId="7988" Text="+1 i want to know more about this!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T10:18:14.913" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10918" PostId="8025" Text="-1 for a non-answer" CreationDate="2011-02-01T10:24:06.647" UserId="3180" />
  <row Id="10919" PostId="7202" Text="Exact lens was the Generic Canon 18-55mm that comes as standard with a Canon 500D" CreationDate="2011-02-01T11:48:05.753" UserId="2680" />
  <row Id="10920" PostId="8028" Score="1" Text="+1, agreed, key factors are flat field and minimum distortion (and high resolution)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T11:49:34.270" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10921" PostId="7978" Text="Sure, but why is &quot;true macro&quot; so special? Imagine 1:0.9 or a 1:1.1 lenses. Both could &quot;truly enlarge and enhance real world detail in print&quot;. 1:1 = True Macro seems to be an arbitrary metric, and not intrinsically any more desirable than nearby and/or even more powerful magnifications." CreationDate="2011-02-01T11:58:05.470" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="10922" PostId="8028" Score="1" Text="Agreed. And the actual *best* lenses to use for something like this would be reprographic lenses on a view camera (if the artwork is actually flat) or (would that it were still available) something like the old Rokkor 24mm f/2.8 VFC (variable field curvature) which would allow you to precisely match the lens field curvature to sunken or bulged work. (Minolta really had some awesome special-purpose lenses back in the day. They -- well, Sony now -- still have a couple of really unique and useful designs, like the 135mm/2.8 STF.)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T12:11:04.830" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10923" PostId="8015" Score="1" Text="@Jukka Suomela — yes. It's like running a light blur filter over your entire image. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T12:16:05.650" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10924" PostId="7962" Score="1" Text="This is an interesting question but it comes down to comparing apples and oranges in the end. The human eye is highly evolved to deal with the everyday situations that humans have faced over thousands of years. Also, the eye on its own is not analogous to a modern camera/lens system - you must include the brain too (which isn't much more analogous), at which point the camera loses on the grounds of adaptability, speed, usefulness, etc. Also, let's not forget that what a camera produces is pretty useless without an eye/brain to interpret it into something meaningful." CreationDate="2011-02-01T12:25:14.417" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="10925" PostId="7978" Text="@Oddthinking You have to draw a line in the sand somewhere - 1:1 is verifiable in the days of film (overlay the real object on the film - if it's the same size or larger on film, then it's a true macro), any other figure would involve measuring, and calculating." CreationDate="2011-02-01T12:49:35.140" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="10926" PostId="8014" Text="+1 for cropping, especially for sports photography when you don't have a lot of time to spend composing the shot, cropping afterwards can take an OK shot, and make it look much better." CreationDate="2011-02-01T12:53:46.913" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="10927" PostId="8010" Text="@Craig: Regardless if a program claims to be nondestructive or not, once you start editing something you endanger it. Yesterday I just changed the EXIF-time on a batch of photos to be geotagged later ... and during that ordinary operation, my computer crashed. Did the program really leave every file as it should be? (Yes, I have a backup, and yes, that experience was why I was motivated to comment as above.)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:04:13.780" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10928" PostId="8029" Text="There is some related discussion at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/62/is-switching-to-dng-worthwhile" CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:08:01.740" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="10929" PostId="8040" Score="1" Text="Great points! I do think that as computing technology matures (arguably it has, already), large scale abandonment of platforms and formats becomes rarer. The point about virtual machines is interesting too, it' quite new as a technology for mainstream users." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:31:13.340" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="10930" PostId="7962" Score="2" Text="@Nick — Absolutely! That's very much the point of the question. Don't forget, apples and oranges *can* be compared in many different meaningful ways. They're different colors, they taste different, they have different texture, they require different growing conditions, they have different nutritional value, they are used to make different types of products...." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:31:14.120" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10931" PostId="8034" Score="1" Text="You assume that the owner takes care of his data all the time. Sometimes people die and sometimes their legacy is discovered late." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:31:23.917" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10932" PostId="7970" Text="@mattdm, I cannot see a licensing condition which does not permit cut-and-paste from Wikipedia. Maybe I have not looked hard enough. But I do see a requirement to attach a licensing notice. See the terms of use &quot;Licensing notice: Each copy or modified version that you distribute must include a licensing notice stating that the work is released under CC-BY-SA and either a) a hyperlink or URL to the text of the license or b) a copy of the license.&quot; Marco has omitted this. I wouldn't worry so much about the 'citation needed' tag since he provides a link to the original page." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:35:38.610" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10933" PostId="7970" Text="@mattdm, to continue. Since it is quite common to use Wikipedia content  we need to clarify the issues. I will make it a meta question." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:37:41.887" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10934" PostId="7970" Text="@labnut — Wikipedia is CC-BY-SA 3.0; SE is CC-BY-SA 2.5. They're comparable going forward, but not back. See http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/74867/" CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:48:15.597" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10935" PostId="7970" Text="Also, I think the lack of &quot;citation needed&quot; is a big deal, because it's a big caution that the cut-and-pasted information may be wildly inaccurate." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:49:44.300" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10936" PostId="7970" Text="@mattdm, thanks, lets continue on meta." CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:57:46.407" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="10937" PostId="7977" Text="Actualy, the MP-E 65 *isn't* a manual focus lens, it's a fixed-focus lens. The mechanism you adjust is a zoom. The zoom operates &quot;backwards&quot;; that is, the distance between the film plane (sensor) and the lens node is fixed, and when you change the focal length of the lens what would normally be the backplane of the optics (which is now pointed at the subject) changes very little while what would have been in front in a normal design changes quite a bit. You change the size of the image on the sensor by zooming; focus is almost entirely by camera position (which is critical)." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:06:37.743" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10938" PostId="8040" Text="bump for fullres jpeg copy and software+OS in a VM for future compatibility!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:20:23.457" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="10939" PostId="8043" Score="1" Text="I think your latest questions would be be served by a biology book. And the answers better be compiled into a Wikipedia-article." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:37:07.923" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10940" PostId="8040" Score="2" Text="Labnut, not to go too off-topic but just to make sure it's said -- the GPL doesn't have any way to make sure the source code is really available, since doing so still requires someone who (a) has a vested interest in keeping it available, (b) has funds to store it somewhere accessible to the world, (c) has time to maintain the storage site, access to it, etc.  So I'd stipulate that open source makes it potentially more *likely* that source code will be out there somewhere, but there isn't -- and can't be -- any guarantee of that." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:38:32.733" UserId="3628" />
  <row Id="10941" PostId="8043" Score="5" Text="A biology book — or Wikipedia — is unlikely to view the questions from the specific angle of photography." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:45:41.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10942" PostId="8043" Text="Additionally, &quot;this is in a book somewhere&quot; is the answer to 99.9% of questions on all Stack Exchange sites." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:46:17.257" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10943" PostId="8040" Text="Gogo [dcraw](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dcraw)! (Re broad raw-format support.) I expect that dcraw will continue to support old raw formats long after the digital camera makers cease to support them." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:46:22.653" UserId="2105" />
  <row Id="10944" PostId="8043" Text="Interesting article in last week's Nature about a third type of photoreceptor in the eye: http://www.nature.com/news/2011/110119/full/469284a.html" CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:49:25.647" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10945" PostId="8043" Score="1" Text="I think this (and related questions), while not of interest to all photographers, are definitely relevant to the appreciation, theory and practice of photography.  " CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:50:47.080" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="10946" PostId="8040" Text="Great question, and a great answer.  +1 for keeping a VM around." CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:56:49.740" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="10947" PostId="8043" Text="I think this is at the same time a highly specific and extremely broad question concerning biology and expecially neurology. The application to current photography is nonexistant, else that &quot;we can look at pictures, see&quot;. The question can't be answered straight because of the neuronal back-processing (look for the perception/learned knowledge-subquestions) and the answer here is &quot;This topic spans entire books, please work your way through them, if you really are interested.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:05:06.547" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10948" PostId="8043" Text="Some of the other questions on human vision were appropriate... but this one doesn't even mention photography in it. As worded it's strictly a biology question... and thus doesn't belong here." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:13:39.507" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="10949" PostId="8045" Text="I did not address the importance of physical backups but of course I see them as very important in this case too." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:14:32.540" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="10950" PostId="8043" Text="Craig, I mention camera sensors in the second sentence." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:15:48.640" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10951" PostId="8043" Score="3" Text="And frankly, I find the suggestion that perception of color does not relate to be photography to be _mind-boggling crazy_." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:17:18.903" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10952" PostId="8043" Text="Please take a look at the targeted perception-subquestion again. How does the knowledge of non-faulty variance in colour perception relates to photography? How does the knowledge that π people physically perceive blue more distinctive than you and half of them perceive it &quot;overall&quot; warmer than the other aid you in taking or post-processing photos? Insults do not easily replace arguments." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:26:08.897" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10953" PostId="8043" Text="I partially agree that this question is on the edge at best. However, recently this forum is not quite flooded with strictly on-topic questions. Therefore, I don't see why we cannon afford an intelligent discussion here - while participants try to keep the relation to photography as much as possible. @mattdm, you are encouraged to reword the question to steer it more to the photography side. Everybody should remember that there is no real waste of forum bandwidth here, since those who are not interested just skip the discussion allover." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:26:43.633" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="10954" PostId="8034" Text="I must admit i have not considered this. However my point about using old software is still valid." CreationDate="2011-02-01T15:41:48.373" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="10955" PostId="8043" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas: general perception of relative warmth of color is useful to know when color-adjusting one's own photos, don't you think? One can color-calibrate one's equipment, but what about one's eyes? And where color-calibration of equipment is based on a person's perception (&quot;make this look neutral&quot; / &quot;are these colors the same?&quot;), is it even possible for one person's very careful assessment to be generally right, or does individual variation make enough difference that a sample of different people's perceptions should be used?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:04:09.030" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10956" PostId="7962" Score="1" Text="These questions have all been flagged as off topic, however I am not sure that is true. Vision is a key factor in every photographers work, and while not everyone may be interested in these topics, many of us are. I think it is relevant discussion, especially given that we have a lot of technical and science types on these forums. The questions do specifically relate to photography, people are answering them, and there are no votes to close. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:07:25.953" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10957" PostId="7963" Text="These questions have all been flagged as off topic, however I am not sure that is true. Vision is a key factor in every photographers work, and while not everyone may be interested in these topics, many of us are. I think it is relevant discussion, especially given that we have a lot of technical and science types on these forums. The questions do specifically relate to photography, people are answering them, and there are no votes to close. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:09:24.360" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10958" PostId="8043" Score="2" Text="These questions have all been flagged as off topic, however I am not sure that is true. Vision is a key factor in every photographers work, and while not everyone may be interested in these topics, many of us are. I think it is relevant discussion, especially given that we have a lot of technical and science types on these forums. The questions do specifically relate to photography, people are answering them, and there are no votes to close. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:10:52.360" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10959" PostId="8043" Text="Hmmm, though — unless someone answers that last bit about black and white photography, I'm inclined to pull that out and make it a separate question." CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:10:53.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10960" PostId="8046" Text="@Matt Grum: Really? So when I look at Betelgeuse, I'm really *not* seeing red? How strange -- I sure thought I was!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:20:07.703" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10961" PostId="8046" Score="1" Text="Betelgeuse is particularly bright in the sky -- one of the brightest. That in fact supports what Matt Grum is saying. But even then, honestly, it usually looks pretty much white to me!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:23:25.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10962" PostId="8043" Text="@mattdm: Don't we use measuring instruments because of subjectivity in perception instead of people? Because two judges may neither see (even the adaption of the eye is not a linear function) nor perceive a colour as equal and a crowd, regardless its size, expressing tastes about a colour do not establish objective measurements? In my mind you are asking &quot;how important are physical differences to the taste&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:28:08.273" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10963" PostId="8040" Score="6" Text="I'll spoil the VM-fun a bit by pointing out that VM-images are like RAW-images: proprietary formats. And even if not: nobody assures at all that general purpose systems will exist and be sold in the future. Might be that we are all stuck with a kind of super-IPad just because 95% of the people like a locked and defined system and vendors changed there. Could be a bit difficult too to get your hands on processors running without certain certificates in several decades. Prediction of computing is ... shady :)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:35:18.223" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="10964" PostId="8043" Text="@Leonidas: that sounds like that's your answer to that one aspect of the question, then. :) But, what about when measuring instruments are not available? Is it a matter of taste, or _are_ physical differences involved? And for that matter, &quot;how important are physical differences to taste&quot; seems like an interesting question in its own right." CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:36:57.617" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10965" PostId="8040" Text="@Leonidas: there are a wide variety of VM image formats and converters between many of them. Maybe raw disk images — which in this case means basically _no_ particular format, just a data dump — are the safest. It's reasonable to assume that any system which can emulate a given physical hardware type can load disk images that match the hardware. But your point about the risk to general-purpose computing due to the super-ipad is well taken." CreationDate="2011-02-01T16:41:42.213" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="10967" PostId="8046" Score="2" Text="@Jerry Coffin: You would only see red if you look at it pretty much dead-on, since our cones are mostly concentrated in the center of our retina (well, slightly off center, near our blind spot). Stars tend to be more visible when looked at slightly more off-center, however rods aren't sensitive to red wavelengths at all, so what you're seeing when you look at most stars is primarily their luminance, with a very slight amount of color. If we had greater color sensitivity, the very slight tinge of red you see in Betelgeuse would be much more saturated and &quot;colored&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:02:19.957" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10968" PostId="8046" Score="2" Text="Bearing credence to this, if you look at stars through a telescope, which effectively makes them brighter, they differentiate in colour quite a lot. There are a few striking examples of double stars where one is distinctly blue and the other is distinctly yellow." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:06:48.000" UserId="1284" />
  <row Id="10970" PostId="8010" Text="@craig - When I worked at Google, this was not the case, but perhaps they changed things. The Windows version did back-up files under some circumstances based on a setting but may edits could be done without that safety net." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:19:24.293" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10971" PostId="8031" Score="1" Text="I'll second the histogram.  It can tell you a lot about your image." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:19:33.030" UserId="687" />
  <row Id="10972" PostId="8015" Text="@Jukka - Yes. I would not subject my images to that treatment unless is was exceptional in every other way. I've only ever rotated one image that went to publication, which was before my camera had a built-in level, and I intend to keep it that way." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:22:19.753" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="10973" PostId="7895" Text="Is it so hard to hit 4 keys on the keyboard and enter 500D only because I unknowingly compared 550D? *sigh*" CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:31:32.493" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="10974" PostId="8004" Text="that's what i was afraid of, it seems being able to write on a uhs1  card is enough to label your device as uhs1 compatible. So no luck on having noticeably better performance in burst shooting from the d7000" CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:38:23.967" UserId="1241" />
  <row Id="10975" PostId="7981" Text="Thank you Jukka &amp; Ieure, that is the answer. For some reason Aperture sometimes forgets to update the displayed temperature/tint. If you then activate White Balance adjustment, it uses the wrong displayed values. Pressing &quot;Reset&quot; restores the right values which come from the cameras Auto White Balance algorithm and are stored in the EXIF tags &quot;WB Red Level&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:42:55.270" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="10976" PostId="7984" Text="Your assumption is totally right. The problem was a bug in Aperture, see the comments to the question." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:43:48.453" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="10977" PostId="7985" Score="1" Text="I checked using Jeffrey's Exif Viewer. The raw file does not contain &quot;Color Temp As Shot&quot; nor &quot;Color Temp Auto&quot;. But it contains &quot;WB Blue Level&quot;, &quot;WB Green Level&quot;, and &quot;WB Red Level&quot;. Aperture converts those back to temperature/tint correctly - but sometimes forgets to update the UI if you switch between pictures - which leads to weird results." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:46:07.683" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="10978" PostId="8051" Score="2" Text="How odd that somebody with so many points should not know. I smell boosting." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:54:10.907" UserId="3629" />
  <row Id="10979" PostId="7034" Text="@khedron There is no question this lens is better than the kit lens.  If you want good shots at f/2.8 - f/5 or so or if you find yourself often making severe crops of your photos, it's worth the cost.  If you want something light to carry around for one-off pictures or photos in good light and won't be looking hard at details or depth of field, the kit lens is great because it sharpens up when stopped down." CreationDate="2011-02-01T17:57:29.707" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="10980" PostId="8040" Score="4" Text="It's **much** more likely you will be able to somehow read RAW format, rather than be able to run an old VM." CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:02:09.237" UserId="3633" />
  <row Id="10981" PostId="8051" Score="9" Text="Grasshopper, just because *I* know the answer to the question, does not mean it isn't valuable to *ask* the question. When you can snatch this pebble out of my hand, then you will be ready to be a photographer. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:06:54.440" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10982" PostId="8051" Score="9" Text="In any case, at this point rep-wise I'm well beyond the need for 'boosting,' but I do think the site is tilted heavily in favor of 'tech related' questions, so if I see an opportunity to add a few questions to the 'art' and 'business' sides of photography, I tend to take 'em." CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:10:49.820" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10983" PostId="8054" Score="3" Text="I've used a 35/1.4 with stabilization, and been *really* happy for it. Far from being pointless, it's actually *extremely* useful." CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:13:38.740" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="10984" PostId="8029" Score="2" Text="Digital photography has been around for a decade now; is there any raw format that has fallen by the wayside, that is no longer readable with up-to-date software? In other words, is there actual precedent that indicates file format obsolescence is a real danger in photography?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:13:43.763" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="10986" PostId="8040" Score="1" Text="On the &quot;make sure it's said&quot; front, there's also the question of whether or not you'll be able to provide power to -any- computer 40 years from now... If, say, peak oil issues and/or economic breakdown and/or some sort of geo-political meltdown happens, who knows what sort of power infrastructure might exist, let alone hardware vendors, etc. If we're even alive through who-knows-what, it's -possible- (not to claim it's -likely-) that our only real option would be to have made prints. Just something to maybe consider, depending on what your goals are, exactly. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:22:47.423" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10987" PostId="8040" Text="@lindes: in that apocalyptic scenario, I bet your concern would be surviving the hordes of squatters, mutants and zombies; whether you are still able to access your old photos or not would be kind of a minor issue, I believe. You'd be happier if you can, sure, but that's beside the point." CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:27:50.370" UserId="3633" />
  <row Id="10988" PostId="8051" Score="2" Text="I rather link @JayLancePhotography's questions, even if he does clearly know the answers to many of them;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:36:07.147" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="10989" PostId="8054" Text="Same as Jerry, I use my fastest lens (like the Canon 50mm f/1.4) in very low light (say, concerts) where I push my 5DMII as far as I can in terms of ISO and noise. At this point, shutter speed is the last parameter I can tweak, and I'm nowhere at a speed that would *not* benefit from IS. My suspicion on this question is that it would make the lens much bulkier, and 50mm lenses are traditionally supposed to be small/portable." CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:47:50.553" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="10990" PostId="8058" Score="8" Text="One other thing that is incredibly important: _consistency_.  Printing out a photo of a bride or landscape Jan 24th 10am should look the same as one printed out June 15th at 4pm.  Not even all pro labs can get this right between changes in hardware/software/people/humidity/etc." CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:48:52.007" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="10991" PostId="8058" Text="Excellent point!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T18:57:01.043" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10992" PostId="8047" Text="Converting to regular TIFF surely has as much if not more potential for losing data as conversion to DNG (which is based on TIFF/EP, by the way, which in turn is based on TIFF - so really, a DNG file kind of is a TIFF file; and certainly DNG can be 16-bit (or more!)). Specifically, you risk losing data about the color filter array and/or other meta-data. I worry about this with DNG, too, to some degree, but at least DNG is specifically trying to address it. The problem is whether your converter understands and duplicates every last bit of data from the RAW file. I keep my RAWs, just in case." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:00:11.143" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10993" PostId="8061" Text="I am not sure that you need to apply crop factor to the 1/focalLength rule, since the projected image circle is the same...you are simply cropping to the center of it. The amount of blur due to shake is the same on FF or APS-C." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:05:28.603" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="10994" PostId="8060" Score="9" Text="+1 for quality vs. quantity. One of my mentors would always tell me that &quot;if your picture requires *any* disclaimers, explanations, excuses, or you just don't think you'll be able to keep your big mouth shut about it for some reason, it doesn't belong in your portfolio.&quot; The work must be of a high enough quality that it both literally and metaphorically speaks for itself." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:05:52.470" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="10995" PostId="8054" Score="1" Text="Have you tried a monopod? It'll get you more time than IS will." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:06:20.020" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10996" PostId="8047" Score="1" Text="P.S. My &quot;just in case&quot; statement is, of course, potentially in conflict with the stated reasons for converting - namely that software would stop supporting old formats. And that is a risk. To best mitigate both risks, convert but keep the original, too. Though that of course increases storage requirements. However, I'm also of the opinion that it would be asinine to remove from software such as Lightroom the ability to read any format it was ever able to read. But then, the Adobe marketing for DNG suggests they think differently about that. We'll see. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:06:37.017" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10997" PostId="8061" Score="2" Text="But the degree of enlargement in the final work will be larger. Motion blur that is imperceptable at size X may be unacceptable at size 1.5 X or 1.6X. The same thing applies to circles of confusion -- they may be the same absolute size on the sensor, but they won't be the same size in the final work." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:08:58.507" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="10998" PostId="8045" Text="If we survive a nuclear holocaust, it might indeed be nice, once we're out of immediate danger, to have photographic evidence of &quot;the way it was&quot;. I otherwise am inclined to agree with this answer. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:10:46.827" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="10999" PostId="7978" Text="That makes a lot of sense, @Rowland, thank you. I guess the fact that it is just a line in the sand seems like an important part of the answer to the original question." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:49:29.427" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="11000" PostId="8037" Text="It's likely that my camera doesn't even care about deactivating the IS system if it is on. Just think, that camera is so not pro that if the LCD backlight turns off (after a selected time), settings like manual zoom just reset!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:52:42.070" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11001" PostId="8047" Text="@lindes: I meant to say you'd keep the original RAW file + the TIFF.  Some people convert to DNG and throw away the original RAW files, which is more what I was warning against... and since you'd be keeping the RAW files anyway I see no need to also have a DNG." CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:59:45.183" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="11002" PostId="8053" Text="The reason for asking this question is this: I take a lot of impromptu/adhoc shots. And I have noticed significant shake problems with EF 50mm f/1.4 (it is a gem for calculated, take-your-time shots though). As a noob who have tasted the smoothness of 70-200mm f/4L IS USM or a kit lens for that matter, I started wondering why not IS on a 50mm?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T20:08:52.220" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="11003" PostId="7978" Text="@Oddthinking I think it's the verifiability of that line in the sand that makes it so convenenient - don't need to worry about enlargement factors or anything; simply if it's the same size or bigger on film than reality, you've got yourself a macro." CreationDate="2011-02-01T20:14:45.463" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11004" PostId="8029" Text="@Lyman I know I wrote 10 years above but @labnut's answer below looks beyond that. I'm not worried about JPG or TIFF being unsupported but some camera manufacturer's RAW format? Sure, I think they can be &quot;forgotten&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T20:23:36.877" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="11005" PostId="8062" Text="I'd guess too, that primes just don't sell enough to be worth the update. Not yet, anyway." CreationDate="2011-02-01T20:25:15.913" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11006" PostId="8073" Score="3" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2386/21" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:04:53.733" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11007" PostId="8074" Text="When lookign at the speed of the card make sure to note the write speed because the limiting factor will be your camera's ability to write the image to the card." CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:05:44.500" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="11008" PostId="7964" Text="That's not precisely true either; parallax has at least as much to do with depth perception as binocular vision. (I have to do two comments to make this all fit -- and I hate doing that.)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:14:49.647" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11009" PostId="7964" Score="1" Text="In any case, what we perceive in ordinary space in the real world needs to be simulated on a two-dimensional surface. Except when objects are very close in relation to their backgrounds, eyes don't *do* &quot;bokeh&quot; (we simply ignore what isn't important) yet if we put what falls on our retinas onto paper or screen, everything has the same visual importance as everything else. Sure, that's great input for a postmodern interpretation execise, but most of us are trying to convey what *we* saw, so we need blur to tell others what to ignore." CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:15:06.370" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11010" PostId="8008" Text="If you're a student, check the policies on your school's circuits lab. At my college, students were allowed to use the lab, tools, components, etc. for personal projects." CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:15:33.483" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11011" PostId="7771" Text="well put, nice examples and a great help. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:16:45.480" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="11012" PostId="8010" Text="Thanks for all the answers guys - I wish I could choose more than one, this is really helpful stuff. Thanks for the help!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:18:30.267" UserId="3591" />
  <row Id="11013" PostId="8001" Score="2" Text="Actually, I'd missed this lens out when considering a recommendation in the previous question. The 50mm/2.5 would probably be a better choice than the 60mm both from a price perspective and given possible space constraints, especially given that 1:1 reproduction *at the sensor* isn't necessary for the anticipated application." CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:22:02.290" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11014" PostId="8071" Text="Similar thread: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6461/1356" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:25:58.100" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11015" PostId="8079" Score="1" Text="&quot;Especially Nikons&quot;? Can you back that claim up?" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:32:43.753" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="11016" PostId="7995" Text="Thanks!! I'm starting to get it now. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:53:21.030" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11017" PostId="8028" Text="I'm going with the T2i because the one I heard that is best is the super expensive 22mp Canon (forget the models). Actually for the sophistication all these cameras seem really well priced, but my budget is stretched with the T2i. I can see in some cases where the work is on a curving board that a option like the Rokkor would be the trick. Most all the work though is very 'flat'. And Staale, thanks for the further explanation. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:58:00.263" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11018" PostId="7997" Text="I'm confuse by the delete and undelete but the explanation, along with the other answers, makes sense now. I think others tried to explain it before but I just wasn't getting it. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:59:20.043" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11019" PostId="8080" Score="1" Text="You know, there's nothing like wandering the streets with a 150mm on a Speed Graphic with a rangefinder and a wireframe :o). Who needs a tele when you can crop 90% of the image away and still get a 16x20 print? 4x5 doesn't have to be a chore." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:08:12.377" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11020" PostId="8079" Text="I have used Nikons professionally since 1978 and never had a camera break on me." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:11:03.123" UserId="3635" />
  <row Id="11021" PostId="8079" Score="3" Text="I don't know if that counts as backing up a claim. :-) Other than that oddity, this is good advice." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:14:13.287" UserId="166" />
  <row Id="11022" PostId="8080" Text=":) I will be updating my Calumet one of these days.  I'm thinking both an 8x10 (for beautiful contact prints) and a more portable 4x5.  Before that, I need to get my oldest lens CLR'd.  For focal lengths I have 90mm, 135mm, and 26cm." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:15:33.463" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11023" PostId="7994" Text="Leonidas, the printer is highly rated and they all charge for ink so I may as well get it cheap. Along with that jon2512, the kit lens was only $70 more and as I didn't get the macro lens yet at least I'll have something to play with. Unless things change, when this project is done I plan to sell it all; camera, lenses, printer, lighting, etc... It'll be well taken care of and a great deal for someone. Right now I can only justify it just for this one large project. Alan, thanks, as I just made the purchase already! And Jay, my apologies to the community for the misstep; thanks for fixing. " CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:26:09.507" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11024" PostId="7970" Text="To be clear, I voted down because the material is poor quality regardless of source (&quot;see the measurements of Tycho Brahe and the Egyptians&quot;???), not for licensing concerns. The copyright concern is a separate issue." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:27:26.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11025" PostId="8047" Score="1" Text="If you mean to convert to TIFF and *keep* the RAW file, then I suggest you update your answer to reflect that.  It seems like you're potentially suggesting a convert-and-delete-the-original approach, in which case I think (generic) TIFF is a much poorer option than DNG, because of all the meta-data that DNG files will strive to maintain." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:42:53.703" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11026" PostId="8087" Text="+1, Eneloops are amazing. I charge them, stuff the flashes back in the bag, and they're still ready to shoot when I take them out after two weeks." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:46:34.790" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="11027" PostId="8040" Text="@looris: The point where it would be relevant is if you're a 50-years-later (or whatever) survivor, rather than a 50-minutes or 50-hours later survivor.  It's when you're trying to teach your grandkids about the way things were that led up to the downfall that you'd want the images.  At that point, it would be highly relevant to anyone who had managed to evade, repel, or (*gasp*) befriend the other survivors (let's not apply pejoratives and fictional creatures to this hypothetical, not sci-fi, scenario), if they still had (some portion of) their belongings, but couldn't power a computer." CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:53:24.897" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11028" PostId="8028" Score="1" Text="Ah, yes, the 5D mark II or the 1Ds mark III. &quot;Best&quot;, for certain values of best, and when size, cost and weight is not an issue at all. I have a 1Ds mark II myself, and the hernia to prove it. You will be very satisfied with the T2i I think, the important electronic bits inside the camera are of a very high standard even if they have cheapened out a bit on the extrior and mechanics compared to the top of the line stuff!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T22:56:44.740" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11029" PostId="8021" Text="Sory for the last comment, I didn't read the first one." CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:01:43.250" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11030" PostId="8084" Text="+1 on the battery issue in the cold. My old 5D ate batteries like it was candy in -15 to -20 deg C. Carry spares (multiple) and keep them warm. The 1Ds series batteries may be more robust in this respect (if not, the required extra batteries are going to cost an arm and a leg!)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:03:10.483" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11031" PostId="8024" Text="In fact, there is no physical conector, just a hole in the battery lid. And I'm in Argentina, so there is no way to buy that kit in Amazon, they don't ship here!" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:03:17.710" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11032" PostId="8087" Text="eneloops. Or one of the rebranded eneloops (I found at Costco a pack of Duracell Rachargeable Precharged batteries. The ones made in Japan are rebranded eneloops and have a white ring around the &quot;+&quot; terminal)" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:19:39.523" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11033" PostId="8091" Score="2" Text="I think the gigapan application allows you to manage such images. Check: http://gigapansystems.com/gigapan-products/gigapan-software/gigapan-stitcher-software-information.html" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:20:11.190" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11034" PostId="8023" Text="You are right, I'm affraid to put 5V and damage the camera. And I can't afford another one. Check my **EDIT**" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:21:48.117" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11035" PostId="8091" Score="2" Text="What file format? Alot of this depends on what format the images are in." CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:27:29.780" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11036" PostId="8091" Text="Thanks for the above link, the format is jpg" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:30:08.980" UserId="3645" />
  <row Id="11037" PostId="8088" Text="Depends on how much you want to upscale it. A little bit is one thing, but if you want to upscale a lot, then even the best algorithms are going to make the picture's focus very soft..." CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:30:10.807" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11038" PostId="8078" Score="5" Text="My favorite quote from that post: &quot;Sand storm: stay inside.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-01T23:37:50.287" UserId="3558" />
  <row Id="11039" PostId="8006" Text="Exactly, the battery lasts approximately the double than before! Ohh about the kit, there is no way to buy it since i'm in Argentina. Please read: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8021/can-i-safely-use-my-camera-with-a-external-power-supply and http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/9623/is-this-a-good-way-to-power-my-camera/9624#9624" CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:11:56.310" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11040" PostId="6154" Text="Does somebody know if the shutter actuation rating of a DSLR can be compared to a Point and shoot camera? Which would last more?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:15:31.283" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11041" PostId="7989" Text="+1 thanks, that look spromising" CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:25:22.773" UserId="3005" />
  <row Id="11042" PostId="8021" Text="A switched power supply _probably_ won't damage the camera, but will produce a lot of electromagnetic noise, which can cause noise and banding in your images. A linear regulator won't generate much noise at all." CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:54:10.477" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11043" PostId="8093" Text="What about ''summing&quot; the images?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:15:58.023" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11044" PostId="8093" Text="@tomm89: That's what the multiple Photoshop layers are doing basically.  With the blend mode, you're saying produce a final image summarising all the lighter pixels as you go up the stack of layers.  Here's an article that describes the process in detail: http://www.liquidinplastic.com/2008/06/startrails/" CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:24:57.013" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="11045" PostId="8093" Text="I'd download that program but I'm in Linux." CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:31:50.553" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11046" PostId="8079" Text="Especially Nikons? I don't think that's well substantiated that Nikon is any better at it than others. I can't speak for Canon, but the fact that 40+ year old Pentax cameras (and lenses) are still in use would suggest that Nikon doesn't have a monopoly on durability. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:45:06.207" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11047" PostId="8080" Text="I have to agree with Berin, why not use both? Mind you, I hate using compacts, it just feels wrong to me, but that's personal taste. I'm more than happy to carry an SLR and took more than 20,000 shots last year alone with one, but people differ." CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:49:06.780" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11048" PostId="6154" Text="@tomm89 - No it does not compare. Many (at least ultra-compacts) point-and-shoot actually use was what is called an electronic shutter, without moving parts. It can be used with no limit. You may notice some cameras have both and will use the electronic ones on high-speed mode (almost any time its 10 FPS+)." CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:49:51.733" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11049" PostId="8096" Text="+1 -- or get a camera that does DNG natively... ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T01:51:03.127" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11050" PostId="8093" Text="If you have software that supports layers, just follow the manual instructions for OSX users in that article, which replicates what StarTrails does." CreationDate="2011-02-02T02:08:59.530" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="11051" PostId="6154" Text="My Canon SX210 seems to have a mechanical shutter because you can hear when it open and closes,  so the rate is likely to be higher than DSLRs, but not infinite" CreationDate="2011-02-02T02:15:55.193" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11052" PostId="8093" Text="I actually have Gimp, but it migh be easier and less memory consuming to just use imagemagick. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T02:23:32.310" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11053" PostId="8079" Score="1" Text="Practically any camera that was made 40 years ago should be more than durable. My point was not about which camera is better, but that in order to take good pictures you need to have your camera out of the bag and ready. At the rate cameras depreciate these days no one should be afraid to have it out all the time." CreationDate="2011-02-02T02:46:27.273" UserId="3635" />
  <row Id="11054" PostId="4508" Text="The Panasonic Lumix FZ100 takes horrible low light photos. They messed up big time when it came to the new sensor and not being able to take non-noisy photos even when using an ISO of 400. It takes great photos in moderate to well lit environments though and the video capabilities are unparalleled to that of any other camera in the same category as the FZ100." CreationDate="2011-02-02T02:52:59.803" UserId="3373" />
  <row Id="11055" PostId="8098" Text="That is a interesting point. A very long time-lapse would just be unattractive." CreationDate="2011-02-02T03:15:20.680" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11056" PostId="8100" Text="Oh wow, good catch. I glossed over that in the question. Absolutely!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T03:39:18.283" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11057" PostId="8097" Text="This is funny, because I process my 14MP images in a 1GB netbook with just a Intel Atom!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T03:58:36.103" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11058" PostId="8047" Text="Post has been altered to clarify thought." CreationDate="2011-02-02T04:01:54.227" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="11059" PostId="8006" Text="Thanks for sharing your video!  It's great to see the output :)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T04:10:27.870" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11060" PostId="8103" Text="It's not that detail degrades with a good upscaling algorithm (and both Perfect Resize and Blowup use very good algorithms), but that you can't put anything there that wasn't there to begin with. Line, curve and gradient continuations and smoothing can be excellent, but placement of edges is a best-guess approximation. I've managed 64&quot; by 9' from a 4K-scanned 35mm slide (original scan 24MP) that were acceptable -- but it's still not what I would have gotten with a Heidelberg scan of an 8x10 chrome. The best guess can be surprisingly good, but it's just a guess -- math only gets you so far." CreationDate="2011-02-02T04:25:54.310" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11061" PostId="8103" Text="Oh -- by &quot;acceptable&quot; I mean for a corridor wall; the viewers couldn't get more than 8 feet away if they wanted to. That ain't bad, really, but I want to put the idea that &quot;everything can be fixed in Photoshop&quot; to rest, since at some point the &quot;fixing&quot; is the 'Shop artist drawing in things that weren't there to begin with. (I've done those &quot;paintings based on an original photograph&quot; too.)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T04:52:15.547" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11062" PostId="8006" Text="@drewbenn: You're welcome! I'll show the link of the new one when vimeo ends the upload" CreationDate="2011-02-02T05:35:37.770" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11063" PostId="8108" Score="1" Text="I definitely agree with the last comment but I'll say it a bit differently - it's better to get it as close as possible in camera as it creates less computer work later to &quot;fix&quot; it." CreationDate="2011-02-02T05:39:25.873" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11064" PostId="8094" Text="How much RAM do you have?  That seems like a long time..." CreationDate="2011-02-02T05:53:09.540" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="11065" PostId="8106" Score="10" Text="+1 for &quot;get things right in-camera first&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-02T05:59:51.540" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11066" PostId="8108" Text="&quot;Tedious&quot; is only part of it when you're on the clock or working on contract and have to deliver some images. Having to waste even one minute per image when processing several hundred becomes unbearable." CreationDate="2011-02-02T06:03:22.160" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11067" PostId="8092" Score="3" Text="&quot;it is the earth that moves actually&quot; HERESY!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T06:05:25.903" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11068" PostId="6820" Text="What camera do you have? Does it support CHDK?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T06:06:59.913" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11069" PostId="8056" Score="2" Text="I just took a quick look at the link that was posted here. As I guessed most of the lenses here are over 200mm, with about half of 300mm +. Many have max apertures of f/4 or f/5.6. As for a use case, I'd imagine mounting one on a monopod rather than a tripod (you usually turn IS off for tripod mounting)." CreationDate="2011-02-02T06:07:00.397" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11070" PostId="8062" Text="20 year old prime lens designs are pretty common. I don't suppose there was any IS then." CreationDate="2011-02-02T06:08:23.407" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11071" PostId="8104" Text="Thanks for the script, I'll try it tomorrow!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T06:57:29.290" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11072" PostId="8109" Text="It doesn't directly answer your question, but you should read http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6615/what-is-iso-on-a-digital-camera especially @Matt-Grum's answer.  Also, I don't think that blending the 5 photos will reduce noise the way you think it will." CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:14:08.333" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11073" PostId="8109" Score="1" Text="I think it'll reduce the noise a little, and that noise could be the same amount as in the photo with adjusted levels." CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:19:37.290" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11074" PostId="8049" Text="Wow, I think this is answer to many of my questions! I will definitely try as many options as I can and see what suits best my needs. Thank you very much!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:31:16.967" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="11076" PostId="8103" Text="Obviously you can't &quot;put anything there that wasn't there to begin with&quot;...that was not my point. My point is that it is possible to preserve what IS there, to at least the point of &quot;acceptability&quot;, if not beyond. You can probably get about 200mp from a drum scan of an 8x10 chrome, sure...but how many of us have the option of lugging around such a beastly camera every day? As the old adage goes...good enough is good enough. I think we can do better than good enough with digital, and even though its not perfect, its damn good. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:32:39.010" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11077" PostId="8103" Text="As for doing everything in photoshop...I never mentioned anything like that. I am a strong supporter of doing as much as you possibly can in camera **first**, and doing what remains in a tool like Photoshop. I don't see that as being any different than processing film, where you still have to do something in a dark room with chemicals and an enlarger to take your camera composition, make it several feet large, and put it on a wall. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:36:33.373" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11078" PostId="8026" Text="well, it definitely looks like i have to take some time to experiment and try many possibilities to see which option is best for me. Thanks for answer!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:43:16.520" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="11079" PostId="8111" Score="1" Text="Matt's answer does not really apply here, since you are compensating for the lower ISO with a longer exposure. By increasing your shutter speed to 5s, you increase the amount of light reaching the sensor, so the lower ISO will produce lower noise. Please see my counter to Matt's answer in that same thread." CreationDate="2011-02-02T07:47:13.730" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11081" PostId="8112" Text="I wrote the above assuming that a shot at 1s/ISO 3200 or 5s/ISO 100 produced a &quot;correct&quot; exposure. After re-reading your question, I can't tell if that is correct or not. If you are stating that blending 5 1s/ISO 3200 shots is REQUIRED to produce a correct exposure, then you may actually want to look into buying a...MUCH...faster lens, as you seem to be photographing in near-pure blackness..." CreationDate="2011-02-02T08:01:10.837" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11082" PostId="8113" Text="I actually did buy the EF 50mm f/1.4 lens. I considered the 50/1.2 for a good long time, but I don't really need that wide of an aperture for what I do, and buying a 5D III, with its FF sensor, will do more for my DOF than the faster lens." CreationDate="2011-02-02T08:06:08.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11083" PostId="8112" Text="The exposure wouldn't change averaging equal condition photos. Another thing, you are talking about the amount of light reaching the sensor of **just one** of the ISO 3200 photos, not the 5 averaged (which toghether make 5 seconds) that's why I made that relation, the total time of the 5 photos (as a group) and the ISO 80 photo is the same." CreationDate="2011-02-02T08:17:29.580" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11084" PostId="8102" Score="1" Text="I turn your attention to this: http://timlum.com/ this is what i want to achieve - try resizing your browser :)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T08:20:51.007" UserId="3643" />
  <row Id="11085" PostId="8108" Text="Isn't $650 still cheaper than $700?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T08:47:10.887" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="11086" PostId="8066" Score="1" Text="Your question is only applicable for a very small geographic area and falls beyond the scope of this site. You're more likely to get a more useful answer by looking in your local business listings, or asking at your local, friendly, camera store." CreationDate="2011-02-02T08:51:10.647" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11089" PostId="8111" Text="Again, the exposure is the same in terms of just one averaged image." CreationDate="2011-02-02T09:15:09.030" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11090" PostId="8109" Score="4" Text="You have provided a sample of averaging ISO 1600 images. I would also like to see a single properly exposed ISO 100 image. I still believe that the ISO 100 image is going to exhibit low noise, and probably better detail. Not to mention the fact that it is FAR simpler than taking **20** ISO 1600 images and averaging them together." CreationDate="2011-02-02T09:20:49.630" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11091" PostId="8111" Text="You are averaging images to the same EV for the purpose of reducing noise, not increasing exposure, so comparing one ISO 100 image is the same a comparing to 1 or 20 ISO averaged ISO 3200 images." CreationDate="2011-02-02T09:22:30.627" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11092" PostId="8093" Text="Lighten Only seems like cheating. You'd get longer star trails without brightening the sky (or dimming the star trails in an attempt to compensate.)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T09:25:17.143" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11093" PostId="8109" Score="2" Text="What software are you using to blend and what method of blending is used?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T09:28:48.707" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="11094" PostId="8113" Text="I just hope you won't wait too long for 5D III :)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T09:44:03.497" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="11096" PostId="8112" Score="1" Text="@jrista Digital sensors heat up over time, and this can dramatically increase noise, so a 30s ISO100 image might have more noise than a series of 2s ISO1600 taken over a couple of minutes with short gaps between each one to let the sensor cool down. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T10:17:10.660" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11097" PostId="8108" Text="@Greg - agreed. I am speaking from a hobbyist point of view..." CreationDate="2011-02-02T11:37:07.917" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11098" PostId="8108" Score="2" Text="@Daniel T. - The difference is too small to justify all the hustle. In a good day you could get the 10-22 for about $650 (like what I got it for, but this was really a special occasion)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T11:38:27.183" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11099" PostId="8119" Text="+1 : Great example" CreationDate="2011-02-02T11:41:32.940" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="11100" PostId="8118" Text="The question is valid and on topic. You should always take answers with a grain of salt, be it legal questions or technical ones. No special treatment for legal related questions." CreationDate="2011-02-02T11:44:06.057" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="11101" PostId="8109" Score="2" Text="Why don't you just try it out and let us know the result?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T12:23:47.730" UserId="3583" />
  <row Id="11102" PostId="8079" Text="After trying a [Luma Loop](http://www.lu.ma/loop) on the past several trips I've taken, I've really enjoyed having my DSLR hang around my shoulder securely and at the ready. I pick the most appropriate lens for the outing and go walking. Admittedly there's no room for storing accessories, but it's a great strap and carries the weight of a DSLR for long periods well." CreationDate="2011-02-02T12:33:57.450" UserId="3657" />
  <row Id="11103" PostId="8029" Text="Another question - will anyone care about your pictures in 40 years? ;) " CreationDate="2011-02-02T12:46:40.523" UserId="3638" />
  <row Id="11106" PostId="7962" Text="@mattdm - I'm struggling with your extension of the &quot;apples and oranges&quot; metaphor but, as I said, I do think it's an interesting question, which is why I've given it +1." CreationDate="2011-02-02T13:05:50.753" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="11107" PostId="8080" Score="2" Text="Every type of camera I have changes how I approach a picture.  I think that's a good thing.  It forces you into a fresh perspective and a new way of looking at the scene." CreationDate="2011-02-02T13:06:11.050" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11108" PostId="8097" Text="Great, thanks.. I'm currently running with 6gb of ram on a 10k rpm disk, which doesn't quite seem to be cutting it at the moment for photoshop... I'll look into getting at least an SSD and perhaps a new set of ram" CreationDate="2011-02-02T13:10:44.653" UserId="3645" />
  <row Id="11109" PostId="4074" Score="3" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4074/canon-eos-iso-specification-what-does-expandable-to-12-800-mean" CreationDate="2011-02-02T13:25:17.337" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="11110" PostId="8123" Text="Did you publish this information anywhere online (such as a blog) where one could read more about the performance/results from the various vendors?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T14:10:46.943" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="11111" PostId="8067" Score="1" Text="(I think the question is a bit offtopic here.) XMP-files are basically XML-files. Is your intent to manually copy the information from the spreadsheet to the website? Then asking for &quot;`XML` to `your favourite spreadsheet format`&quot; converters on Super User might help. If you want the website automatically read the XMP-files, you could parse them e.g. with PHP and ask for help in Stackoverflow." CreationDate="2011-02-02T14:13:35.213" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="11112" PostId="8046" Score="2" Text="Ok, so this is a pretty good biological introduction, but how do we, as photographers, make use of this info?  Do we boost blues in our photos to compensate for low &quot;S&quot; counts?  Is there something we should be doing to take advantage of the extra sensitivity for greens?  Maybe there's something about the way our brains process color that accounts for the appeal of B&amp;W photos in some cases.  Is anyone aware of any work in this direction?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T14:37:43.550" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="11113" PostId="8108" Text="When you're paying $650 or $700 for a lens, the $50 becomes a minor point. You get numb after having bought multiple $1000+ lenses." CreationDate="2011-02-02T14:54:46.587" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11114" PostId="8060" Text="@JayLancePhotography: High praise from the master;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T15:10:05.357" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11115" PostId="8129" Text="The Airbus one is amazing! Sorry, I have no idea how it was taken. but I'll check the answers as they come." CreationDate="2011-02-02T15:35:18.290" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11116" PostId="8118" Score="3" Text="How can an answer that basically tells you nothing at all can be on the top of the list ? Please ..." CreationDate="2011-02-02T15:59:44.480" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="11117" PostId="4074" Text="The low-ISO part of the question does not appear to duplicate anything so far." CreationDate="2011-02-02T16:56:20.720" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11118" PostId="8112" Text="@jrista There is an interesting and possibly important subtlety here.  The &quot;compounding&quot; of the noise splits it into two parts: a systematic part, which is common to all images, and another part, which varies (fairly randomly) from one image to another.  The systematic part stays.  The varying part follows a square root law: that is, the typical amplitude of the noise in combining _n_ images is about 1/Sqrt(_n_) as great as the amplitude in a single image.  To settle this question, what we really need is a more detailed, _quantitative_ understanding of how noise varies by ISO." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:03:03.457" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11119" PostId="8121" Score="1" Text="This is the right idea.  However, we need to recognize that not all noise is random or independent.  The SD formulae you refer to will be too optimistic.  BTW, &quot;sensibilité&quot; (French) = &quot;sensitivity&quot; (English).  &quot;Sensibility&quot; does not mean what you think it does..." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:06:10.487" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11120" PostId="8002" Text="I am still not clear on a couple points: 1) Is there any photo lab out there that supports 16-bpc files? 2) Photoshop CS5 does not display 10-bpc to the monitor (even with all the correct drivers and hardware) but Lightroom does, correct?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:07:02.577" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="11121" PostId="8116" Text="If the ISO 100 image was correctly exposed, then each of the ISO 3200 images must have been grossly overexposed (by 2.7 stops).  I think it more likely the ISO 3200 images were reasonably exposed.  Thus, we should be contemplating comparing 5 ISO 3200 images to one ISO 640 image.  (I see in the Edit that the OP has changed to **20** ISO **1600** images.  Their blend should be compared to a single ISO 80 image.)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:10:39.200" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11122" PostId="8112" Text="@Matt: Sure, noise can increase as the sensor heats up, however 30s is not really that long of an exposure in the grand scheme of things, and noise caused by increase heat should be minimal for a 30s exposure at ISO 100. Additionally, the noise most prominently caused by sensor heat is &quot;fixed pattern&quot; noise, which is very easy to correct. Either way, I figure we would need some empirical evidence to support either case." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:10:56.673" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11123" PostId="8112" Text="@whuber: I would agree, we need a more quantitative understanding of how noise varies by ISO. I think some sample images and the basic scientific method of test and observe can provide some answers though. @Tomm has already provided a sample of merging ISO 1600 images...some samples taken at ISO 100 would provide an ideal baseline comparison." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:13:03.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11124" PostId="8112" Text="@jrista Yes, I would love to see that comparison.  Some care is needed.  For instance, I wouldn't use a tree, because small motions in its leaves and branches could confound the results.  Also, the result could (and I think likely will) vary with how high the ISO goes, too, so it would be useful to conduct more than a single experiment.  (Because I don't have software to combine images, all I can do is write about this, rather than just carrying it out, for which I apologize.)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:19:02.463" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11125" PostId="8133" Score="1" Text="This might help: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6151/what-is-the-shutter-speed-needed-to-stop-motion" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:19:06.360" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11126" PostId="8133" Score="1" Text="@kiran - Welcome to the community. Can you please post the shot parameters (speed, aperture, ISO). A sample image showing your problem may be helpful too." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:21:41.753" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11127" PostId="8130" Score="1" Text="Is there anything in particular that PTGui does that photoshop (or similar) can't do?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:23:31.113" UserId="2474" />
  <row Id="11128" PostId="8133" Text="One thought: how did you control the off-camera flash? If you are not using a ETTL cable, a 580EX or a ST-E2 controller, then most probably you are not shooting in High Sync Speed mode." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:23:46.933" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11129" PostId="8118" Score="2" Text="@Guillaume the question is basically, &quot;what can I legally do?&quot;  The only proper answer to that is, &quot;get legal advice from your lawyer.&quot;  None of the advice on this page is legal advice (and it sounds to me like the OP is going to get into legal trouble if they blunder ahead with this plan without getting advice from their lawyer first); other answers may help the OP come up with a list of questions to ask their lawyer, but the **number one** thing they need to do is consult a lawyer." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:31:04.897" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11130" PostId="7977" Text="Doh, Stan is right.  Its manual focus like a prime lens is manual zoom, you gotta move it :)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:35:03.717" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11131" PostId="8117" Score="2" Text="Laws are different in each country, and can differ even within a country.  Where are you located?  Where will the servers be located?  From where will the portal be accessed?  You should also read http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1736/can-i-publish-photos-taken-in-public-legally and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/277/what-is-fair-use-us-copyright-law ; there may be other relevant questions here as well." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:38:47.397" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11132" PostId="8097" Score="1" Text="You might need to tweak your Photoshop performance settings, @easyjo. By default, Photoshop is configured to use around half of your physical memory, only puts temp files on one disk, and is optimized for &quot;average&quot; image editing. You can increase the physical memory pool to 95% of available memory, and optimize photoshop's caches for &quot;Big and Flat&quot; images (high MP images). That should help your editing performance quite a bit, assuming you work on one at a time. Once your image size gets larger than the available physical memory, things slow down." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:40:10.750" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11133" PostId="8112" Text="@whuber: I agree about the scene...something that exhibits the differences in noise better would be ideal. As for merging the results, I was thinking of using Enfuse. Its adaptive algorithm should be able to handle multiple exposures at the same EV, although I will admit I've never tried that before. Enfuse may not be the best tool, either, because it is also explicitly designed to eliminate both random and fixed pattern (what I think you referred to as systemic) noise. I guess we could ask the OP what his merging approach is. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:43:21.823" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11134" PostId="8113" Text="If it doesn't come out this year, I'll probably pick up a 7D for the interim." CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:56:18.937" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11135" PostId="8134" Text="I find the 70-200 to be incredibly sharp, probably canon's sharpest zoom lens (I generally prefer primes).  Its especially sharp backed off from either end slightly, like from 80-190mm" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:58:42.290" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11136" PostId="8126" Score="1" Text="This is essentially the answer I would have given.  Typically you will have to magnify images to a great degree and scrutinize them to tell the difference between ISO 100 and ISO 400 on today's digital SLRs." CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:20:31.683" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11137" PostId="8134" Text="@Shizam - which of the 5 70-200? As the OP noted, the f/4 is considered as sharper than the f/2.8." CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:25:41.280" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11138" PostId="7962" Text="@Nick: http://improbable.com/airchives/paperair/volume1/v1i3/air-1-3-apples.html :)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:34:25.033" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11139" PostId="8133" Text="I don't think that this is really ghosting — it's just motion blur." CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:36:17.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11140" PostId="8133" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7784/techniques-for-high-speed-photography" CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:37:30.693" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11141" PostId="8054" Score="3" Text="Jerry: Which manufacturer makes a stabilized 35/1.4? " CreationDate="2011-02-02T18:58:55.113" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="11142" PostId="8109" Text="@ile Check **EDIT**" CreationDate="2011-02-02T19:11:47.673" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11143" PostId="8134" Text="@ysap Oh, right, I'm referencing the 70-200 f2.8 IS.  Though it should be noted in brick-wall/newspaper testing the 70-200 f2.8 non-IS is sharper than the IS version :)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T19:16:17.903" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11144" PostId="8116" Text="When I tried to write the question, my point was: 1 image with low ISO and longer exposure and a series of images (averaged later) with higher ISO and a exposure that equals **a/n**, being **a** the exposure time of the low ISO image and **n** the quantity of high ISO images. But all of this speaking in terms of not blowing nor underexposing any of the images. Can I explain myself?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T19:18:25.683" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11145" PostId="8139" Text="I already tried that. But in sky for example, the stars would dissapear with a lot of frames, when in a long exposure image, the trail would be there." CreationDate="2011-02-02T19:22:12.883" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11146" PostId="8117" Text="I think this is pretty borderline as phrased. It's not about _taking_ photographs, and although part 3 covers photo-manipulation, it's not really a photo-editing question but one about adding &quot;humorous&quot; captions." CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:08:55.993" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11147" PostId="8123" Text="@ahockley Dunno if they did, but SmugMug did: http://www.smugmug.com/photos/pro-print-labs-compared/ (and the older, needs to be retired, one: http://www.smugmug.com/prints/digital-prints.mg)  (Disclaimer, I work for SmugMug.)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:14:16.363" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="11148" PostId="8058" Text="On #5 you missed better quality chemistry (or more accurately, better chemistry management) since anything decent is not going to be printed by inkjets, but rather on real photo paper that has to be developed. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:17:12.653" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="11149" PostId="8144" Score="5" Text="+1- But while I like the first three, I'm generally not of the opinion that you should do something simply because there are people out there would look down on you otherwise." CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:33:51.167" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11150" PostId="8143" Text="+1 - HSS is almost certainly the cause of the ghosting." CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:38:23.253" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11151" PostId="8116" Text="+1 Thanks for carrying out the experiment, @Matt." CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:40:25.300" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11152" PostId="8139" Text="Right. I didn't realise that the question was specific to star trails. For stars, you might be better off with a sum instead of average." CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:51:06.687" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11153" PostId="8134" Text="@Shizam - I actually assumed that both have the same optics and sharpness. It is not counterintuitive, though, that the non-IS is sharper." CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:52:43.320" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11154" PostId="8116" Text="+1 Your answer has me wondering if you really need to blend all 16 images together, and if not how many you need before the differences are not noticeable.  Did you try blending half of the high ISO images together?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:53:30.867" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11155" PostId="8058" Text="How does 'better quality in general' *not* cover chemistry and chemistry management? ;-) Just giving you a hard time... Great point!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:08:46.740" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11156" PostId="8060" Score="1" Text="Oh jeez, I don't know about that. :-) It's a solid answer and it also means I don't have to write one myself. Win-win! :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:12:29.077" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11157" PostId="8133" Score="1" Text="Orrr, maybe it really is ghost images caused by the HSS pulses? That seems entirely possible. Having a sample image would be very helpful!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:14:19.657" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11158" PostId="8143" Text="Yeah, if it is actually ghosting that seems completely likely." CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:14:45.490" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11159" PostId="8121" Text="@whuber thanks for the correction :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:25:38.847" UserId="3525" />
  <row Id="11160" PostId="8116" Text="How exactly did you average the images together?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:28:52.197" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11161" PostId="8116" Text="I think I've done the same experiment. Check my EDIT" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:29:40.543" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11162" PostId="8109" Text="With your latest example, there is a **marked** reduction in detail in the averaged ISO 1600 images. There is noticeable reduction in detail for all the averaged images, particularly in the the specular highlights of the glass bottle." CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:31:34.190" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11163" PostId="8109" Text="The second series is fascinating.  Unless the tripod is absolutely rock solid--and maybe even then--we could expect the different images in a series to be slightly misregistered.  This requires resampling in order to overlay them.  The effect is going to be a like a Gaussian blur whose radius is proportional to the square root of the number of images.  The largest misregistration should be about 1/2 pixel (variance = 1/12 pixel^2), so overlaying 16 images ought to create a &quot;registration variance&quot; around 16/12 pixel^2, corresponding to a Gaussian blur of about 1.2 pixel radius." CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:36:40.530" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11164" PostId="8109" Text="(Continuation)  Consequently, following up the image overlays with an appropriate sharpening--one designed specifically to deconvolve Gaussian blurring--might do a remarkably good job at recovering details." CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:38:31.403" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11165" PostId="8116" Text="@Matt The middle images seem slightly sharper to me." CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:39:59.967" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11166" PostId="8144" Score="2" Text="@chills42 - I'd exchange #1 and #2. As a lazy person, I see the waste of time as the #1 reason to avoid counting on post." CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:47:51.370" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11167" PostId="8141" Score="1" Text="why not download the trial and play for yourself? Also, OnOne software does Focal Point - http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/focalpoint/ which is similiar" CreationDate="2011-02-02T21:48:44.460" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="11168" PostId="8144" Score="1" Text="Haha, I never said anything about the quality of these reasons :). However, I agree, ego is not a good reason, it's just one of the reasons that exists." CreationDate="2011-02-02T22:25:31.883" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11169" PostId="8058" Text="And a pro lab won't decide arbitrarily that your photos are &quot;too good&quot; and therefore you can't possibly own the copyright, so they refuse to print them." CreationDate="2011-02-02T22:34:44.047" UserId="3617" />
  <row Id="11170" PostId="8140" Text="&quot;Normally with flash, shutter speed has only an insignificant effect on exposure&quot; is a bit of an exaggeration, I think.  This is only the case if neither flash nor ambient isn't acting as a fill." CreationDate="2011-02-02T22:41:08.020" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11171" PostId="8109" Text="Pentax's cameras have a multi-exposure shooting mode setting to do something similar in-camera, FWIW." CreationDate="2011-02-02T22:48:47.090" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11172" PostId="8139" Text="Yes, summing would be perfect, but I can't find out what is the imagemagick command. Would be great something like that command but with **-summarize** instead of **-average**" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:02:17.760" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11173" PostId="8119" Text="That's not what I would want for stars. Because they'd be averaged with the other frames, making the sky empty!" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:04:41.080" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11174" PostId="8109" Score="1" Text="Mu guess is &quot;average&quot; is a mean. The problem with mean is your are just smoothing the noise into the image, which will ultimately reduce sharpness. Median, on the other hand, will mostly eliminate noise below a certain threshold. Can you try a median? " CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:09:17.923" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="11175" PostId="8104" Text="I've never used a script in Gimp. How would I execute it? From the command line, or from the program. Should I save that as a script?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:12:36.500" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11176" PostId="8078" Text="I got snow blasted years ago (sand blasting with snow...). My glasses were horribly pitted and had to be replaced (to say nothing of my face). I'd hate to have this happen to a lens." CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:17:36.410" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11177" PostId="8151" Text="how is this different from selecting the background with lasso/magnetic lasso and Gaussian Blurring it? (just curious)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:19:19.667" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11178" PostId="8112" Text="My merging approach is just deleting noise. If I'd want a higher dynamic range in my image, I would have taken different exposure photos and then yes throw them to the fantastic **enfuse**! In this case, I don't think **enfuse** could do something better than plane averaging." CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:20:38.720" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11179" PostId="8102" Text="I trust you're talking about the green icon in the top right corner? If this is the case, this is a CSS trick where he's anchored the icon to the top right of the browser. " CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:25:44.430" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11180" PostId="8103" Text="@jrista - is this work you've done in Photoshop or something similar or in Javascript on the browser?" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:28:09.920" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11181" PostId="8144" Text="ego is like greed. some of it can be a good thing. Hell, if i wait two hours in the cold for the right light and take a couple dozen shots to get what i want just right, damn right i'll be bragging, later! " CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:28:56.860" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11182" PostId="8144" Score="1" Text="&quot;if i wait two hours in the cold for the right light and take a couple dozen shots to get what i want just right, damn right i'll be bragging&quot;. Ah, but what if none of the shots come out - will you still tell everyone? ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:37:09.900" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11183" PostId="8154" Score="1" Text="There's a lot to be said about using it as a get-away. I used to drive about 20 miles outside our city-limits to a wilderness area to wait for the sun to go down and shoot desert vistas. It's good for the soul when the only sound is the wind blowing - who cares if the sunset never materializes. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:39:47.307" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11184" PostId="8145" Score="9" Text="Agreed. &quot;I'll fix it in post&quot; is the worst attitude you can have in photography in general." CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:42:31.320" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11185" PostId="8151" Text="it does a better job of aping the look of a real lens. The tool actually has a number of presets for specific lenses (known for their good bokeh), and then lets you tweak. You can simulare a variety of effects like number of aperture blades, etc. as well." CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:45:43.540" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="11186" PostId="8142" Score="10" Text="I think if you haven't figured out why you should shoot &quot;right&quot; in camera, then you need to keep shooting until you realise post processing does not make a bad photo good. (not directed at you, but in general)." CreationDate="2011-02-02T23:45:53.110" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11187" PostId="8078" Score="2" Text="I'd hate to have it happen to my face" CreationDate="2011-02-03T00:11:14.553" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11188" PostId="8104" Text="IF I remember correctly, run gimp from the command line with &quot;gimp -b -&quot; and then you'll get either a prompt or a blank line; paste all that in.  And then it'll just run.  Or something.  You may need to experiment or look up some GIMP tutorials.  Sorry, it's been about 2 years since I've done this." CreationDate="2011-02-03T00:32:48.467" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11189" PostId="8151" Text="@JoséNunoFerreira Don't ever use Gaussian Blur to replicate a lens blur. Photoshop has a Lens Blur filter that's much more suited." CreationDate="2011-02-03T00:40:09.957" UserId="3672" />
  <row Id="11190" PostId="8078" Score="1" Text="Actually, I got sand blasted while on the world's highest sand dune (Cerro Blanco in Peru, 2.5km tall). I had a polarizer on and I had sand in it for months after that! My camera was a K-7 with weather-sealed DA* 16-50 lens so all I did back at the hotel was keep it under the tap about 30s. Another photographer had a Canon Rebel (not sure what model) and it died while ON TOP OF THE DUNE in roughly 5 seconds! I heard Canon Peru charged $150 to take it apart and put it back together minus the sand." CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:09:08.560" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11191" PostId="7593" Text="As a photography teacher, that is the #1 most frequent Canon-specific question I get asked!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:12:38.650" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11192" PostId="8142" Score="5" Text="BTW: Pushing/Pulling a film, softening overblown lights (dodging and burning), using different paper for hard contrasts was not so unpractical when you developed your own black&amp;white. Time and your original material was your limit then too." CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:16:03.723" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11193" PostId="8161" Score="2" Text="No m4/3 camera has an optical viewfinder that sees through the lens. I think that is what you meant by 'see-through lens'. There are optional EVFs and optical tunnel finders for specific focal-lengths though." CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:19:17.990" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11194" PostId="8150" Score="1" Text="We always hard burning, dodging, masking (including unsharp mask sharpening), contrast and white balance adjustments, spotting (and other forms of retouching, like airbrushing) and so forth at out disposal. It may be easier now, and may require a little less of us in terms of accumulated skill sets, but the landscape really hasn't changed that much. We're just more aware of and more willing to use the tools now." CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:46:19.120" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11195" PostId="8145" Text="I wish I could +2 for the quote at the end.  I may have to shamelessly cite you for that one..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:48:02.903" UserId="3674" />
  <row Id="11196" PostId="8145" Score="2" Text="That also applies to makeup and hair on a model, draping of clothing, fingerprints and smudges on products, removing trash from a landscape foreground and so on. A few minutes spent up front can save several hours at the workstation later -- even if you know you're going to retouch anyway." CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:54:00.097" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11197" PostId="8154" Text="I completely agree with this reason.  I would much rather spend few more minutes in the forest with my camera than few more hours in a stuffy room squinting at the screen." CreationDate="2011-02-03T02:13:21.157" UserId="2811" />
  <row Id="11198" PostId="8150" Score="1" Text="Actually, in my experience, you could usually do more with a underexposed or overexposed film (at least BW) than you can do even with a raw file.  I don't think I have ever had a BW negative that I couldn't get something out of. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T02:15:49.143" UserId="2811" />
  <row Id="11199" PostId="8144" Score="2" Text="If you wait two hours in the cold, check your batteries ;)." CreationDate="2011-02-03T03:28:11.237" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11200" PostId="8162" Score="1" Text="The lack of a mirror kills TTL and, thus, any optical viewfinders that will see what the camera sees." CreationDate="2011-02-03T03:40:40.783" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11201" PostId="8162" Text="@John Cavan - That's right. Those that offer an optical viewfinder work in the &quot;old&quot; compact camera style, Dual Lens, where the viewfinder has its own objective lens." CreationDate="2011-02-03T04:00:43.297" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11202" PostId="8162" Score="1" Text="Are there micro four-thirds with that configuration? I'm not aware of any, since that would seem to blow out the interchangeable lens concept, but since the style doesn't interest me, I haven't necessarily watched them closely." CreationDate="2011-02-03T04:10:17.110" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11203" PostId="8162" Text="@John Cavan - you mean a configuration w/ a viewfinder? I think there are, or at least it is an accessory you can mount on the hot shoe. Like you, I am not really interested in this style, so I am not sure, and am speaking from memory, but I can be wrong." CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:05:29.230" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11204" PostId="8162" Text="Olympus offers a hotshoe-mounted optical finder to match their 17mm f/2.8 pancake lens. See https://us.buyolympus.com/optical-viewfinder-vf-1-for-use-with-17mm-f2-8-micro-four-thirds-lens.html?___store=default" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:08:19.207" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11205" PostId="8162" Text="@John Cavan - see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus_PEN_E-P1" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:11:37.820" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11206" PostId="8164" Score="1" Text="Since the sensor is about ²⁄₃ the size of Nikon/Pentax/Sony APS-C sensor (³⁄₄ for Canon), it makes sense that the difference is less than a stop. (For the difference to be a whole stop, the difference would have to be roughly half/double.)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:12:18.903" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11207" PostId="8096" Text="I use a canon 7d. Do I have a special sensor? Will I lost something important if I convert everything into DNG?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:15:37.167" UserId="3647" />
  <row Id="11208" PostId="8096" Text="Also, I don't really care about the extra-cost while generating the DNG and the previews. I just care about &quot;normal&quot; usage. If the image are half size of the RAW, I guess it will be much faster to load too..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:16:33.483" UserId="3647" />
  <row Id="11209" PostId="8060" Text="*&quot;That&quot;* being whether or not I'm a 'master' at anything in particular. Just re-read my comment and thought it could really be taken the wrong way if I didn't clarify. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:43:19.510" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11210" PostId="8060" Text="@JayLancePhotography: LOL, I thought you were being sarcastic about not knowing about portfolios..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T05:51:22.063" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11211" PostId="8118" Text="You could say the same for any kind of question. There is a risk that the answer will be wrong. If you follow advices on this site, there is a chance that you will miss great pictures. I'm just tired of legal questions being treated differently. But this discussion should probably continue on http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/ and not here." CreationDate="2011-02-03T06:09:04.600" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="11212" PostId="8145" Score="2" Text="I agree to a point with the &quot;i'll fix it in post&quot; being a bad thing. The exception is if it costs less to fix it in post. If you have 5 crew (more common in video shoots I agree) then fixing it in post would actually be cheaper if it takes less than 5 hours.. Just a thought." CreationDate="2011-02-03T08:10:19.527" UserId="426" />
  <row Id="11213" PostId="8102" Text="@Mike I think he's referring to the portrait that makes up the background" CreationDate="2011-02-03T08:58:00.003" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11214" PostId="439" Text="if you were a canon user, i could recommend 70-300mm L." CreationDate="2011-02-03T09:10:44.887" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11215" PostId="7978" Text="1:1 is arbitrary. The number 1 has obvious mathematical and numerological significance but there's nothing optically special about the macro ratio 1:1 other than the ease of measuring it. It certainly isn't &quot;a line in the sand&quot; as that means a metaphorical point beyond which no advance is accepted or made. Lens makers such as Canon have advanced beyond 1:1" CreationDate="2011-02-03T10:11:23.167" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="11216" PostId="8109" Text="@rm999 Assuming the noise is zero mean gaussian, using the mean is correct thing to do and will not reduce sharpness in any way." CreationDate="2011-02-03T10:23:01.797" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11217" PostId="7978" Text="@RedGrittyBrick For me, I consider a line in the sand to be an arbitrary value, similar metaphorically to the length of a piece of string. After all, my actual answer does refer back to Canon's dedicated macro lens that can go up to five times magnification." CreationDate="2011-02-03T10:23:28.183" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11218" PostId="8109" Text="@tomm89 Did you use a tripod and cable release (to avoid moving the camera in any way)? Also did you make sure high ISO noise reduction was turned off? Only the experiment I did revealed no loss of sharpness by blending 16 ISO1600 shots together." CreationDate="2011-02-03T10:24:59.690" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11219" PostId="7978" Text="“I don’t know what you mean by ‘glory,’ ” Alice said.&#xA;    Humpty Dumpty smiled contemptuously. “Of course you don’t—till I tell you. I meant ‘there’s a nice knock-down argument for you!’ ”&#xA;    “But ‘glory’ doesn’t mean ‘a nice knock-down argument’,” Alice objected.&#xA;    “When I use a word,” Humpty Dumpty said, in a rather a scornful tone, “it means just what I choose it to mean—neither more nor less.”" CreationDate="2011-02-03T10:47:21.673" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="11220" PostId="7978" Text="@RedGrittyBrick I really have no idea what you're saying there, and would suggest that if you want to debate the finer points of grammar, colloquialisms and figures of speech, then you take it over to http://english.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-02-03T12:11:50.853" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11221" PostId="8142" Text="After all, photography is in the first place about what you **see**, then how you translate that to a photo." CreationDate="2011-02-03T12:21:08.667" UserId="1330" />
  <row Id="11222" PostId="4074" Text="I had read that question before posting, it reenforced what I believed was happening with ISO expansion at the high end of the scale, but didn't really clear much up about expanding theISO at the lower end." CreationDate="2011-02-03T12:36:45.457" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="11223" PostId="8126" Text="Thanks, I think I'll stick to the ND filter rather than losing some dynamic range." CreationDate="2011-02-03T12:39:18.030" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="11224" PostId="8118" Text="The &quot;Should we give legal advice&quot; conversation can continue here : http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/719/should-legal-questions-related-to-photography-be-discussed-on-this-site" CreationDate="2011-02-03T12:47:49.060" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="11225" PostId="8123" Text="I didn't get round to publishing the results, but they went something like Photobox - Great service but dark print, DSCL/Loxley - I didn't get on with their ordering systems, DigitalPFP - slow &amp; expensive but great prints in the end it was OneVision imaging in Coventry that won out, good prints and service and local to me which always helps." CreationDate="2011-02-03T13:12:05.300" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="11226" PostId="8145" Score="2" Text="It's one thing if, due to your experience, fixing it in post will take less time and you make that conscious decision.  More than likely, you will change how you are shooting so that it will make it easier in post.  However if, due to inexperience, you assume computers can fix _everything_, then you will quickly find out that is not the case." CreationDate="2011-02-03T13:41:55.097" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11227" PostId="8179" Score="8" Text="You should probably give credit to @ysap for that photo and link to his answer directly. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7784/techniques-for-high-speed-photography/7785#7785" CreationDate="2011-02-03T14:17:02.703" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="11228" PostId="8179" Text="the link is in the solution as markup to &quot;some tips&quot;. it should redirect to the rfusca question and all the answers on how to get shots like this lemon. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T14:23:16.360" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="11229" PostId="8180" Text="Hi Chillis, i'm aware of that plugin (it was the one i'm going to use) but i still need a high res image, so if someone is viewing my site on a 27&quot; iMac, its not going to blur" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:03:35.120" UserId="3643" />
  <row Id="11230" PostId="8046" Text="@D. Lambert — exactly! Do you mind if I paraphrase this comment in an edit to the original question?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:05:46.253" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11231" PostId="8179" Score="6" Text="Nevertheless, you give credit to @ysap for the photo." CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:06:05.787" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11233" PostId="8181" Text="I like that. Shooting about what I know. I can be very interesting, I'm a computer engineer, code can be fun !" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:14:19.647" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="11234" PostId="8142" Score="3" Text="I don't think the question is about fixing up a poorly executed photo in post, but about the implications of effects that can be applied either in camera or in post, with often indistinguishable results." CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:15:22.250" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11235" PostId="8046" Text="@mattdm - No problem at all -- go right ahead.  I'd love to know if there's any science behind why any given photo is appealing to some people vs. others, or generally appealing to most people, or whatever.  I like the focus of this question on color (as opposed to composition, etc.)." CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:15:59.363" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="11236" PostId="8177" Score="2" Text="This and nothing.. I mean, I searching ideas, no comment about the fact that I don't have ideas. This does help me." CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:16:09.660" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="11237" PostId="8145" Score="1" Text="Mythbusters actually did a segment on polishing a turd and it turns out with enough polishing you can turn one into a thing of beauty! " CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:17:12.373" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11238" PostId="8181" Text="Absolutely. Although software is a little hard to capture visually (other than screen shots!) a lot of hardware is interesting to look at. Or from a larger point of view, if you don't mind mixing interests, consider what interesting computational things you can do with photography as an input. See for example http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5g8k-n4j_o" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:28:24.743" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11239" PostId="8183" Score="3" Text="why not 1x1 aspect ratio then?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:29:46.190" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="11240" PostId="8130" Text="You can do it with Photoshop's built in tools but it's a bit more work, you have to get it to stitch the pano normally without floor or sky images, then use the 3D tools to create a sphere map and align the floor and sky by hand. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:33:15.820" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11241" PostId="8183" Score="2" Text="Because most frames, albums, etc., are 4x5, 8x10, etc. Hassleblad has been pushing square format for decades, but I've never found most arguments for it (or pictures taken *with* it) particularly compelling." CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:35:29.863" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11242" PostId="8182" Score="1" Text="I like the concept of &quot;Story&quot;. I think that is what I looking for. A good story. A bit like Still-motion of legos or stuff like that. Thanks for the point !" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:39:00.480" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="11243" PostId="8176" Score="3" Text="Fundamentally related: &quot;Where do you find the inspiration for your photographs?&quot; http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7663/where-do-you-find-the-inspiration-for-your-photographs" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:43:04.347" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11244" PostId="8183" Text="1×1 is actually not very good for optimal use of the &quot;good&quot; center parts of the image circle, unless you extend _beyond_ the point where the corners are degraded and just expect to crop that out for most images. You get more useful area from rectangular formats. (Leaving aside issues fitting in the mirror — assume a mirrorless design.)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:49:19.460" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11245" PostId="8185" Score="1" Text="Canon have three DSLR formats and numerous compact and bridge formats so I don't think that's the problem, there are however compelling technical reasons to do with mirror size and registration distance. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:51:28.023" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11246" PostId="8142" Text="@Matt Grum: that was pretty much my intent in asking. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:55:10.203" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11247" PostId="8183" Score="2" Text="@Jerry - The MOST common printing and photo album format is actually 4x6, which corresponds to exactly the format of most DSLRs. Those who use 4/3 or m4/3 cameras (4:3 aspect) have to crop or letter-box their images to fit those." CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:57:49.970" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11248" PostId="8180" Text="well.. that would depend on the iphone model.  If you have a iphone 4, then your resolution is already good enough (2592 by 1936) for a 27&quot; (2560 by 1440 native resolution), assuming you shot landscape." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:19:24.587" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11249" PostId="8176" Text="And should probably be a CW as well." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:28:23.710" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11250" PostId="8183" Score="1" Text="With 5:4 you also get 4:5 for free by tilting the camera it's two formats in one, with 1:1 that's all you have." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:35:19.827" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11251" PostId="8190" Text="So it can be turned off, then, I see. Would you recommend I leave it on? Does it make that much of a difference? I'm sort of an impatient person, and having to wait twice as long per exposure is difficult for me, so I'd rather turn off the NR feature if it's not really useful." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:36:24.103" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="11252" PostId="8049" Text="Glad to be of service. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:37:12.460" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11253" PostId="8190" Score="1" Text="If you're shooting JPG or you don't want to do much fine-tuning in post, leave the noise reduction on and you won't need to worry about it too much later.  Personally I turn the feature off and apply noise reduction manually via Lightroom or Noise Ninja so that I have better control over the process." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:39:13.023" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="11254" PostId="8116" Text="By the way, it's perfectly reasonable that less images (or a single image) yield to a sharper result, because even if the pictures are taken with a tripod and a remote control, it's very difficult that they are perfectly aligned (and also the light source might have changed because the temperature of the bulb raising over a longer period of time [including the lapse between shots], for example)." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:39:28.290" UserId="3525" />
  <row Id="11255" PostId="8109" Text="Well, I used I tripod although it's a Chinese brand (and also very thin) so the quality is questionable. To shoot the photos, I used a script so the movement is between each set (when I press the shutter) but there should be no movement between the photos inside each set. And last, remember my camera is a Point and Shoot so the overall quality will not be the same compared to a DSLR." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:43:22.933" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11256" PostId="8112" Text="@jrista: The fixed pattern noise you're talking about, is the one corrected with dark frames, right?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:46:59.603" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11257" PostId="8193" Text="You may be missing links or sample images here." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:47:02.207" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="11258" PostId="8193" Text="That's strange - i uploaded this images here. If you are unable to them, here are different links http://pix.academ.org/img/2011/02/03/0770975aa6dde89145c834cccac01b01.jpg (with NR) and http://pix.academ.org/img/2011/02/03/fec9ff9892a7242377b51606da222c25.jpg (without).    Those are resized images, i may upload full sized photos if you need them." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:53:03.803" UserId="2922" />
  <row Id="11259" PostId="8183" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - I'm not so sure about that.  A square frame is going to cover more area in the center of the frame than a rectangular frame.  Plus, for a given diagonal, the square is going to have more total area.  I've convinced myself that a square is the optically superior shape.  Of course with the mirror issue (and probably some strong tradition), it's unlikely we'll ever see any DSLR's with a square sensor." CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:55:10.980" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11260" PostId="8194" Text="Sweet colors ! It's daylight right ?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:55:25.520" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="11261" PostId="8183" Score="2" Text="We have circular lenses... we should just move to circular sensors and be done with it. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:11:37.067" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11263" PostId="8183" Score="1" Text="@craig - It's been developped: http://www.image-acquire.com/rokton-develops-circular-sensor" CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:24:00.363" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11264" PostId="8184" Score="3" Text="The 5D is slow, but the 1ds.III isn't. Nobody's really pushing the limits of shutter design anymore though -- the Minolta 9xi did 1/12000th max and 1/350th x-sync in 1992 (on full frame). This also only really affects the FF version -- the mirror and shutter for the APS-ish one are still smaller than a current full-frame version." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:24:13.623" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11265" PostId="8192" Score="1" Text="Hi erjiang. Welcome to photo.se.com! Because it's not really photography specific, I suspect your question may be a better fit over at graphicdesign.se.com so I'm recommending that we move your question there. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:28:02.390" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11266" PostId="8183" Score="1" Text="@Craig: circular probably isn't very practical -- although it makes maximum use of the lens, it would waste lots of space on the wafer when being fabricated." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:28:49.580" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11267" PostId="8194" Text="Daylight + post-processing :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:33:55.957" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11268" PostId="8179" Text="Wow, that's surprising... for a minute I was not sure if I already answered this question... Given all the recent questions regarding copyright etc., I wonder what is the proper way to act here. Any suggestions?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:39:36.793" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11269" PostId="8192" Text="I also flagged this as offtopic, but provided an answer meanwhile." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:42:30.607" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="11270" PostId="8183" Text="@Itai: wow, and here I was joking. Nice link!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:44:18.277" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11271" PostId="8183" Text="@Benjamin Cutler - I don't see what issue can arise with a mirror for 1:1 format that is a non-issue with 3:2." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:48:08.737" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11272" PostId="8192" Score="4" Text="This is an on topic question. Printing a photo from Photoshop is a key step in the digital photographic workflow. I need to make this clear, as we have had a variety of off-topic votes on on-topic photoshop questions: Discussing *Photoshop in relation to Photography* IS on topic. That includes *printing photos*. Soft-proofing, which this question pertains to, is a key factor of printing photos." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:52:10.627" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11273" PostId="8184" Text="The mirror size increase would be ~4mm for the full screen version. There have been horizontal shutters too (old Leicas) -- though, of course, their maximum speed was quite low." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:58:09.523" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11274" PostId="8184" Text="The speed issue clearly isn't insurmountable, but at 5:4 APS-c camera would lose compatibility with APS-c only lenses (such as Canons EF-s) meaning you'd be selling a FF camera with a narrower sensor. At which point you might as well get FF sensor and crop..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:59:03.807" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11275" PostId="8112" Text="@Tomm: Correct, it can be corrected with just one dark frame, since it is fixed pattern. You need a very long exposure to produce fixed pattern noise, however. A 30s exposure is on the lower bound of the length of time necessary to heat a sensor up enough at ISO 100 to produce a strong enough fixed pattern signal that it intrudes into higher key image signal. (A low-key image will have a lower SNR, so fixed-pattern noise is more visible...however a long enough exposure to actually heat up the sensor is still required.)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T17:59:48.997" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11276" PostId="8183" Text="OK, just read @Matt Grum's answer and got it." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:00:15.777" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11277" PostId="8193" Text="The downside is loss of detail that you can't control. Also, if doing long night shots, it doubles the time of the exposure which can mean losing out." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:06:43.527" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11278" PostId="8183" Text="@Craig: I'm pretty sure they were joking too -- if you look all those articles are on (or a day or two after) April fools day..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:09:08.687" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11279" PostId="8179" Text="@ysap - Sue? ;) lol" CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:09:58.890" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11280" PostId="8183" Text="Heh... didn't bother to check. Joke's on me then. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:13:39.183" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11281" PostId="8179" Score="1" Text="Regardless of legal implications or whatnot, I personally think its inappropriate to use another member's image in an answer without their permission.  As a courtesy if nothing else. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:15:36.167" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11282" PostId="8184" Text="@Matt Grum: I don't see it losing compatibility with (at least most) APS-C lenses. Sony certainly supports mounting APS-C only lenses on their FF bodies. It crops to APS size, but the mirror still works fine. They do use a more complex mirror mechanism than others, but I'm not at all sure it'd be necessary for this small a change." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:18:01.253" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11283" PostId="8183" Text="@Benjamin Cutler: it depends where you make the distinction between center and corners — a diameter matching the short side of the rectangle, the long side of the rectangle, or the of the square." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:22:06.317" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11284" PostId="8179" Score="2" Text="@rfusca - LOL indeed. For the spirit of the forum and the discussion, I'll take this as a compliment, assuming no harm was intended. However, I'd appreciate a nicer attribution, something like &quot;Here is a lemon example, made by @ysap, and some tips on how to create it.&quot;. The current attribution is kind of lost in the frame." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:44:31.073" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11285" PostId="8192" Text="No need to be a D-Bag about it..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:44:51.167" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11286" PostId="8192" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: You should probably give a correct URL when directing people to another SE." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:57:33.463" UserId="2733" />
  <row Id="11287" PostId="8116" Text="@fortran Looking again at the 16 image sequence the first and last images are out by about 1.4 pixels, or 0.02% of the image width. After auto align in Photoshop the images were almost perfectly aligned (to within my ability to detect any misalignment). The total time to shoot the sequence was not much longer than the other 16 second exposure." CreationDate="2011-02-03T18:59:58.313" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11288" PostId="8192" Text="@Jay: Apologies, not trying to be a douche, its just getting a little exhausting dealing with a considerably higher level of mod requests lately. Having to deal with and increasing number of complaints about on-topic requests is just compounding the work level. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:02:33.817" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11289" PostId="8172" Text="You can shift images by less than 1 pixel by resampling, you can also do something called super-resolution if you have many misaligned images which treats the non-overlapping sensel locations as extra samples and can increase resolution. see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super-resolution" CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:03:45.733" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11290" PostId="8116" Text="@jrista I loaded the images into a stack at 16bpp and merged 8 pairs of layers, then I merged the resultant 4 pairs, then 2 pairs and then the final pair, which is close enough to the mean values for 8 bit output." CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:06:15.310" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11291" PostId="8116" Text="@whuber The middle image of the first crop is the averaged one, the middle image of the last crop is the single ISO100 one!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:06:53.280" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11292" PostId="8184" Text="@Jerry You'd be fine with Nikon, Sony etc. but not Canon, M43. Still it's not really a 5:4 oversize APS-c it's more like a FF with the sides chopped off... A 5:4 FF sensor would be worth it, but then you'd fall into lens incompatibility again with all manufacturers." CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:12:46.797" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11293" PostId="8046" Score="1" Text="@D. Lambert The question was originally &quot;how does the human eye perceive colour&quot;, it subsequently changed after I answered it! To be honest it's not all that relevant to photography beyond explaining why there are more green pixels..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:14:46.797" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11294" PostId="8184" Text="Hasselblad, Fuji, Mamiya, and other medium format camera manufacturers have mirrors that are 6x6cm.  While mirror slap is a problem, the bigger problem is cost of manufacturing.  The technology has existed for decades." CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:25:30.010" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11295" PostId="8122" Score="1" Text="I agree with you on the price statement. The 18-55 IS is the second cheapest lens From Canon (I guess?). Probably the expensive lenses may have better IS. But even the kit lens' IS should have been good for the 50mm. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:29:32.660" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="11296" PostId="8201" Text="Nice !! THANKS !" CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:29:33.660" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="11297" PostId="8116" Text="@Matt That shows you how undiscerning some people's eyes can be :-)." CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:35:59.423" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11298" PostId="8179" Text="@ysap, I always embed my copyright info into the image, and into its metadata. If someone posts it, and that info is gone, it is a malicious attempt to defeat the copyright notice, which is a bad thing; I've been there and dealt with it and it's not fun. I'd say someone owes you a deep and heartfelt apology." CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:52:22.473" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11299" PostId="8183" Text="@mattdm - I guess I was thinking in terms of distance from the center since the distortion is a function of distance from the center of the image (optical axis).  I drew a picture to kind of illustrate what I'm thinking (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MbNzQRCQCRzLQ9s_BCJquQM8HAB-Dd1rIEc2_h8w9g4?feat=directlink).  Of course I think there are other reasons why a rectangular sensor is desirable (aesthetically, a rectangular cropped image is more pleasing to my eyes)." CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:02:44.183" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11300" PostId="8172" Text="Super-rez is a good IR strategy (it's great for turning surveillance images into evidence and so forth), but it can introduce artifacts (just an awareness statement; not pooh-poohing the idea). My preference is for best-match pixels with a consensus rule, but it is exactly that: my preference (I hate interpolated edges -- they always look like overdone unsharp masking to my eyes)." CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:06:35.577" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11301" PostId="8204" Score="1" Text="&quot;Or is a general walk around...&quot; is it possible to banish this term from the vernacular?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:25:28.217" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11302" PostId="8165" Text="My mistake. Will correct that." CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:41:28.083" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11303" PostId="8204" Text="@Shizam: Haha, fair enough, I don't love the term, I just don't know a better one :) What term do you prefer? &quot;Wide angle to short telephoto zoom lens?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:43:59.307" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11304" PostId="8185" Score="1" Text="@Matt, Canon is a special case because they make their own sensors and even the least popular ones sell in great volumes, just because they're Canon. The other sensor makers concentrate on the ones that are a sure thing." CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:47:11.763" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="11305" PostId="6764" Text="@mattdm why is it not an SLR camera? what is it then? (I'm a beginner, it just looks like an SLR to me....)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:53:54.427" UserId="2409" />
  <row Id="11306" PostId="8176" Text="@M.Walker : Totally agree, but I more specific to &quot;at home&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:55:29.823" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="11307" PostId="6764" Text="@cambraca -- that's a great question to ask on this site as a top-level question!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:56:38.263" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11308" PostId="8204" Text="Hah, yea I know, there isn't a good option.  The aversion is fallout from all those 'Can somebody suggest a good walk around lens?'" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:57:14.203" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11309" PostId="8184" Text="@Berin Loritsch: Matt does have a point about that too though -- while it's obviously possible to build a medium format SLR, I'm not aware of any that does even the 3 FPS (or so) of the 5D.II, not to mention the 5 FPS of the higher-end FF bodies." CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:57:33.893" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11310" PostId="6764" Text="@mattdm http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8211/what-defines-a-camera-as-slr :)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:03:33.523" UserId="2409" />
  <row Id="11311" PostId="8202" Score="1" Text="Seems like the better option is to offer a package of '5 photographs' or '10 photographs'.  Because if they have features in the backyard (pool, gazebo etc) you'll need to get that, or if they have a theater or a bar or a work room or a 5 car garage..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:04:00.637" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11312" PostId="8046" Text="@matt - Fair enough.  Hopefully, the question is more relevant as it's now phrased." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:08:02.863" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="11314" PostId="8184" Text="Well, you don't shoot medium format for frame speeds.  Traditionally you'd only have 12 pictures per roll of 120 film, so using it that way would be kind of unruly." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:15:38.080" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11315" PostId="8207" Text="good suggestion... i probably will do that once the camera arrives... thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:17:09.773" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="11316" PostId="8213" Score="1" Text="Yes. Not all SLRs had interchangeable lenses. There was also some models using a beam-splitter rather than a mirror, similar to Sony SLT models, but with an OVF." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:19:03.033" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11317" PostId="8213" Text="So, if I understand correctly, the Fuji HS 10 *does* let you see (even if it's not using the mirror system) the exact framing of the picture, right? What's the downside of this compared to SLR?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:22:08.073" UserId="2409" />
  <row Id="11318" PostId="8210" Text="i like this one... do they sell in stores or online only?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:23:18.373" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="11319" PostId="8192" Text="@jrista: No harm, no foul. Hopefully the impending moderator elections will add a few more mods to the mix and help even out the workload? After all, we're probably not going to be getting any smaller. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:23:26.477" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11320" PostId="8213" Score="2" Text="@cambraca - Yes, basically you see what the sensor sees. Problem is that the VF LCD is not top-quality and the image is prone to all digital processing artifacts. The resolution is relatively low and the image processing is limited so the image looks evidently &quot;digital&quot; (speaking from my experience with the Canon S1IS and S5IS, can't comment on the Fuji directly). The SLR lets you see the &quot;real thing&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:30:56.203" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11321" PostId="8213" Text="@cambraca - as you notice, many compact cameras today gave away the viewfinder in favor of the back LCD. The principle is similar, but the VF lets you compose in bright sunlight." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:32:31.040" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11322" PostId="8165" Score="3" Text="Smaller compared to what? the Micro 4:3 is actually the same size than a regular 4:3 (Panasonic and Olympus DSLR's), despite it's &quot;micro&quot; prefix. What is smaller is the distance from the focusing part of the lens to the sensor." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:33:57.917" UserId="3525" />
  <row Id="11323" PostId="8215" Text="I'd be interested to know if distortion correction in PP is good enough for real estate photography.  If so, this could potentially save a lot of money in terms of start-up costs." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:42:30.403" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="11324" PostId="8212" Score="1" Text="I'll second the notion of not spending a lot up-front and expecting that the equipment will pay for itself rapidly if you're planning on marketing your services to agents in any way (may be a better market opportunity in FSBOs, but I don't know from experience there)... I used to do real estate photography and from experience I can say that real estate agents (on the whole) are some seriously cheap bastards when it comes to photography. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:43:43.433" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11325" PostId="8212" Score="4" Text="Quantity is always valued over quality. *Always.* The prevailing attitude is that 'pictures only need to be good enough to get the client in the house, anything above that is a waste of money.' To some extent I think they're right... The *best* that photography can do is get someone interested enough to go do a walkthrough, and considering that many people can't tell a good picture from a bad one, mediocre really is good enough..." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:45:00.980" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11326" PostId="8109" Text="@Matt Grum With a small number of photos the chances of the noise contributions to a single pixel summing to ~0 are very low. This is easy to show mathematically: the distribution of the sum of gaussians will have a higher variance than the individual gaussians. In an averaged (mean) photo, each pixel is more likely to be affected by noise than in the individual photos, but the noise will be of lower magnitude. If you have a large enough number of photos the magnitude will be low enough that you are correct. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:45:12.927" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="11327" PostId="8212" Text="Again, my experiences may not apply to FSBOs, custom home builders, etc., so your YMMV. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:47:15.160" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11328" PostId="8215" Score="2" Text="+1 for the *tall* tripod. Add &quot;remote shutter release&quot; to that as well." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:48:18.130" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11329" PostId="8218" Text="Very interesting, thanks for sharing that - quite a good way to visualise the difference. Cheers." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:49:29.283" UserId="3591" />
  <row Id="11330" PostId="8184" Text="@Berin Loritsch: Quite true -- but my intent was toward an improved competitor to existing 35mm-like DSLRs, retaining essentially the same capabilities and strengths. IMO, a slightly modified 35mm format wouldn't compete well in the MF market." CreationDate="2011-02-03T21:50:41.617" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11331" PostId="8134" Text="Thanks all for the input. It seems there aren't many f/4 owners. I'll go to a store to check them both out myself. " CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:01:39.017" UserId="3663" />
  <row Id="11332" PostId="8134" Text="@zweiasakura - Good, and if you feel like you received a satisfying answer to your question, this community encourages the conclusion of a question by &quot;accepting&quot; (clicking on that small &quot;v&quot; under the answer's rating) what you feel as the best answer." CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:23:57.453" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11333" PostId="8060" Score="1" Text="I do think its kind of funny that your linked portfolio breaks your #1 rule." CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:30:00.513" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11334" PostId="8184" Text="I amended my answer with some historical information.  In short they did try selling cameras with different formats before." CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:33:50.567" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11335" PostId="8165" Text="I was mostly talking about the most frequent DSLR sensor sizes which is APS-C, DX and larger. I've edited that for clarification." CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:38:12.917" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11336" PostId="8192" Text="Aye, we do indeed need some more mods. There are at lest 2 mod requests a day, and we've had days where there are 6 or more, and the resolutions are not always straitforward." CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:52:23.980" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11337" PostId="8094" Text="Are your 1:1 previews set to be discarded after a certain amount of time?" CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:58:32.540" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="11338" PostId="8222" Text="I have the 3N1-33 (similar to your 1st link, but with a rear laptop compartment). This bag is waaay bigger than the one the OP linked to. Note that it has space to much more than a body with one lens and a flash. This also makes it bulky and not necessarily an all-around bag. The &quot;sling&quot; mode's practicality is limited when the bag is full with gear. The lack of chest strap is irritating. Contrary to the other two bags you link to, the waist strap is essential for this size and is standard with the 3N1. KATA makes high quality products, and if you find a bag that fits your needs, go for it." CreationDate="2011-02-03T23:24:29.443" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11339" PostId="8179" Text="@kacalapy - thanks for the edit!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T23:29:03.013" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11340" PostId="8051" Text="*boosting* - LOL!" CreationDate="2011-02-03T23:31:27.053" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11341" PostId="8201" Text="And be sure to check out the website: http://www.dailyshoot.com/" CreationDate="2011-02-03T23:44:20.967" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11342" PostId="8140" Score="1" Text="That's true, but I guess I'd consider that another case outside of &quot;normal&quot;. If you're shooting indoors and not intentionally setting a wide aperture or slow shutter with slow-sync flash, the ambient light really is insignificant. (And presumably, one isn't doing that when one is freezing motion.)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T00:17:46.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11343" PostId="8179" Text="@Greg — it's not necessarily true that removal of EXIF data indicates malicious intent. Many file upload sites strip EXIF (to save a few bytes of storage and data transfer, I guess?). And, imgur.com, the site used by Stack Exchange for uploaded images, is one of them. (Flickr is another notable example.)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T00:23:11.543" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11345" PostId="8179" Text="I didn't say EXIF data. I said metadata, but should have clarified it as the IPTC data. And, if both the copyright notice in the IPTC metadata and a copyright notice inside the image are stripped, it is intentional; My IP lawyer really liked it when I pointed out both had been stripped in a copyright infringement case I had. In particular, the visual copyright mark and notice carries a lot of weight in such cases." CreationDate="2011-02-04T00:33:05.673" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11346" PostId="8213" Score="3" Text="+1 - Well answered. It's important to note that the 'R' in SLR is for the reflex mirror assembly, so by definition, a camera without the reflex finder cannot be an SLR even if everything else is pretty much the same." CreationDate="2011-02-04T00:37:56.347" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11347" PostId="8051" Score="2" Text="I'll be honest with y'all that I'm not *completely* sure what 'boosting' is. I get the sense from @time4tea's original comment that 'boosting' has to do with asking questions you already know the answer to, and if that's the case... Guilty. But being as our FAQ clearly indicates that it's OK to ask and answer your own questions then logically, asking questions you know the answer to is quite alright around here as well. @time4tea's comment makes me think that this would be frowned upon in other communities... and it makes me glad that I'm here, and not wherever @time4tea comes from. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T00:56:59.617" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11348" PostId="8060" Score="1" Text="To be fair, it's not like he has 78 pictures in there, and he did indicate that it's OK to potentially have a *slightly* larger port depending on the client base. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T00:58:57.977" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11349" PostId="8200" Text="+1 Great additional perspective on fine art portfolios..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:00:25.493" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11350" PostId="8202" Text="Who do you anticipate your clients will be? Seems like you'd want to know who you're marketing to before you build your packages. As I mentioned here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8204/real-estate-equipment/8212#8212 my experience in real estate photography is specific to agents, and with that crowd, quantity of pictures was always far more important than quality..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:07:22.943" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11351" PostId="8134" Text="@ysap you got it" CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:18:55.080" UserId="3663" />
  <row Id="11352" PostId="8013" Text="Yes, but a second (or third) battery wouldn't help if I'm running out of battery in the middle of the timelapse. It'd be helpful in the case I want to start a new time-lapse right after the other." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:26:31.497" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11353" PostId="8051" Text="Yeah, I think it means &quot;asking questions you already know the answer to&quot;... in order to collect reps for providing a good answer. Evidently, you did not answer yourself, so you can't be blamed for that ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:41:24.647" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11354" PostId="8179" Text="@Greg - what is IPTC?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:52:25.887" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11355" PostId="8228" Text="I couldn't think of any better tags, if I missed one, just add it." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:52:58.057" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11356" PostId="4253" Text="I have accepted this answer because I think it is the most applicable and comprehensive, however the others are also useful." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:55:27.670" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11357" PostId="4417" Text="That is an excellent point Shizam, thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:56:10.493" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11358" PostId="5426" Text="I have accepted this answer because it is very good and fairly comprehensive. The answers below are also useful however." CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:57:08.137" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11359" PostId="8051" Text="On this question at least. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T01:59:25.897" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11360" PostId="8200" Text="+1 Great answer." CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:02:57.077" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11361" PostId="8228" Text="Converted to CW. I also threw in the tag [presentation-format], as it seems to be what this question is asking about." CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:11:58.240" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11362" PostId="8228" Text="Ok, great! Thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:14:45.263" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11363" PostId="8210" Text="@Jon Erickson: I have seen it in stores... I actually tried it out in a store and then ordered it online later." CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:19:18.647" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="11364" PostId="8168" Text="Thanks! I've already checked out all of those, and none of them meet all my requirements except Asuka. They have great lay-flat albums, but they cost a bit more than I want to spend. This is for personal, not for professional use, so I am looking for something not quite as expensive. Can you suggest anything else?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:28:49.380" UserId="3607" />
  <row Id="11365" PostId="8179" Text="[IPTC](http://www.iptc.org/site/Home/) is an international standard for tagging and describing images for use by news media. Wikipedia has a [quick overview](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPTC) of it. Apps like Adobe's Lightroom and Photoshop, Apple's Aperture and Camera Bit's PhotoMechanic make it easy to add/edit the information, which is either stored inside the file, or in a sidecar file, then used by an agency to pull out the particulars of the image, such as when and where an image was taken and by whom, along with the copyright info." CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:41:23.003" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11366" PostId="8051" Score="1" Text="If asking a good question is &quot;boosting&quot; then so is providing a good answer to a question.  Both contribute positively to the quality and amount of content on the site." CreationDate="2011-02-04T02:59:40.777" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11367" PostId="8217" Score="2" Text="A pellicle (translucent) mirror camera is still a &quot;proper&quot; SLR. The Sony models aren't the first -- the Canon EOS RT (for &quot;real time&quot;) was a 35mm film SLR with a pellicle mirror that could do 30 fps at the X-sync shutter speed or faster and had a single-shot shutter lag that was shorter than the then-current Leica rangefinder." CreationDate="2011-02-04T03:29:14.507" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11368" PostId="8231" Text="+1 *only* due to the limits of the site (and I hope the vote made it -- I have a lousy connection at the moment). Like creating a painting, it's not about &quot;fitting the couch&quot;, it's about the picture itself. If it demands to be a jewel-like 4&quot;x5&quot; picture to be given complete, undivided attention up close, then that's the proper printing for that picture. There probably ought to be some commonality across a collection or a series, but it's the pictures, not the camera or printer capabilities, that should do the talking." CreationDate="2011-02-04T03:41:57.977" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11369" PostId="8067" Text="Koiyu, Thanks for the advice. I will take it over there." CreationDate="2011-02-04T03:48:39.700" UserId="3635" />
  <row Id="11370" PostId="8227" Text="LDP ( http://www.maxmax.com ) does high-quality conversions as well. And B&amp;W done from a 590nm image make absolutely beautiful portraits of (Caucasian) women -- the skin tones acquire that porcelain perfection that Tech Pan and unfiltered B&amp;W IR films were known for." CreationDate="2011-02-04T03:52:52.083" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11371" PostId="8201" Text="You may find you can get ideas from one of the &quot;painting a day&quot; blogs out there as well( http://www.google.com/search?q=painting+a+day ). Duane Keiser's site is probably the canonical example, but they all hinge on making compelling images of small everyday objects, food, etc. (Food shots, as I've said before, are hard to get right. You can probably learn more making food look delicious than from any other single genre of photography.)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T04:08:48.000" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11372" PostId="8212" Score="1" Text="+1 ... except that I'd probably go bare bulb on a high stand rather than an umbrella for most interiors. You get the directionality of the ceiling-level fixture you're simulating, but there's usually better fill, since the wall color will influence the fill hue. A Lightsphere or Omnibounce on a higher-end speedlight will do for a start, but going to a Quantum kit for TTL or a Norman, Lumidyne or similar kit for metered use will let you use smaller apertures and higher ISOs in smaller spaces if this becomes a significant income source. Side benefit: they work better in softboxes too." CreationDate="2011-02-04T04:16:58.133" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11373" PostId="8074" Score="2" Text="-1 You're confusing **MB** /s with **Mbit** /s.  Class 4 is 4MB/s and class 6 is 6MB/s.  4MB is 32 **Mbit**." CreationDate="2011-02-04T04:24:49.500" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11374" PostId="8127" Text="Note, too, that images of people appearing &quot;in character&quot; may be subject to trademark restrictions as well. Miley Cyrus may always have been fair game, but Hannah Montana would have gotten you in a tight spot with Disney." CreationDate="2011-02-04T04:33:53.407" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11375" PostId="8168" Text="I'm afraid that I don't. You're right that they're quite expensive... I kinda doubt that you're going to find something that's *significantly* less money than what you'll find with these providers..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T05:32:44.463" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11376" PostId="8081" Text="yes, weather sealed cameras are your best bet. To your list you can add the Pentax K5 and K7 which have effective weather sealing." CreationDate="2011-02-04T05:59:47.793" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11377" PostId="8240" Score="3" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6908/canon-sx30is-or-fuji-hs-10-hs-20 it is pretty much an exact duplicate of your question." CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:12:52.267" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11378" PostId="8212" Text="@Stan: And they'd definitely be less of a hassle than an ungainly umbrella. I was hesitant to recommend it over a softbox... but I figured that lower-price would probably be better. On that note, I'd guess he'd probably still want to stick with a speedlight for better cost and portability... if it's even worth getting into at all, given Jay Lance's comments." CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:16:08.747" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11379" PostId="8237" Text="Once the filter is installed (using either the 67mm Canon adapter or a third-party 58mm adapter), a generic lens cap for the appropriate filter size will work; it'll work on just the adapter ring as well. You can pick those up anywhere." CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:18:32.260" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11380" PostId="8240" Text="Thanks for this. You have any idea when Fujifilm FinePix HS 20 will be out or something ?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:24:29.120" UserId="2107" />
  <row Id="11381" PostId="8244" Text="+1. Once I've copied a photo to my external drive it takes 0 time and effort to never look at it again.  Yet there have been times I've wanted to go back and look at a series of photos to re-analyze them as a set; for example when I take pictures with a manual focus lens I can guess the aperture of the one I kept by comparing shutter speeds against the ones I didn't." CreationDate="2011-02-04T07:55:55.853" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11382" PostId="8218" Text="I just linked the image from Wikipedia ^_^" CreationDate="2011-02-04T08:12:29.083" UserId="3525" />
  <row Id="11383" PostId="8244" Text="@drewbenn WTF? Guess the aperture? When you've got the shutter speed, the aperture should be in the EXIF informations, too, except you're using some old or fully manual lens (like lensbaby)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T10:06:30.170" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11384" PostId="8169" Text="thanks for your commment" CreationDate="2011-02-04T10:32:49.743" UserId="3670" />
  <row Id="11385" PostId="8217" Score="2" Text="&quot;I wouldn't be surprised to see the traditional definition of DSLR become less important&quot;: Incidentally, in Finnish, we do not usually use the term SLR, but we use the term &quot;[system camera](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/System_camera)&quot;, which *can* be applied to both DSLRs and EVILs." CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:22:00.670" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11386" PostId="8145" Text="+1 for &quot;No amount of processing can add detail that isn't there to begin with&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:35:32.867" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="11387" PostId="8149" Score="1" Text="+1 for the detailed answer - great points to consider." CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:37:11.897" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="11388" PostId="8244" Score="4" Text="This used to be my policy, but the growing number of gigabytes on my hard drive, and backup drive, mean that it can no longer be my policy ;)  My two 640GB drives weren't THAT cheap (although I guess, when you compare them to my cameras...)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:46:32.007" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11389" PostId="8102" Text="Ummm, I don't have a portrait making up the background... in Firefox or Internet Explorer. I'd say we're seeing different things." CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:51:55.793" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="11391" PostId="8236" Text="+1 for having a backup drive.  " CreationDate="2011-02-04T12:23:40.547" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11392" PostId="8228" Text="Sounds like a very sensible, practical question to me.  I don't think you need to worry about it being too subjective. (but that's just my opinion  ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T12:27:11.057" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11394" PostId="8157" Text="Love your point about not getting shadows from one person onto another." CreationDate="2011-02-04T12:34:53.730" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11395" PostId="8255" Text="Actually the &quot;smaller&quot; camera is much bigger, it just has a lower pixel count of 6MP - Nikon D40 ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T13:11:13.040" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11396" PostId="8217" Text="@Stan - thanks for the clarification.  It'll be interesting to see how Nikon approaches this if their rumored mirrorless camera comes to pass." CreationDate="2011-02-04T13:33:46.260" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="11397" PostId="8217" Text="@Jukka - that makes sense.  I guess my tangential answer here was meant to suggest that although there's a correct technical answer to this question, it's also helpful for people to understand the benefits that we've come to expect from a DSLR so that they can see which of those benefits are (or aren't) available in other systems." CreationDate="2011-02-04T13:36:31.623" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="11398" PostId="8249" Score="2" Text="I don't argue that people out there are apparently calling it &quot;Factorial&quot;, but that's _just wrong_. A factorial system would be 1, 1, 2, 6, 24, 120, 720, etc. — not the sqrt(2) scale." CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:07:42.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11399" PostId="8249" Text="In thinking about this, I think it'd probably be ideal to use &quot;f-number&quot; for the fractional values and &quot;f-stop&quot; for their order in the series. F-number f/1 is f-stop 1, f-number f/1.4 is f-stop 2, f-number f/2 is f-stop 3, etc. That makes sense with &quot;open up 2 stops&quot;. But, trying to do that at _this point_ in history would just introduce more confusion. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:10:49.990" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11400" PostId="8248" Score="1" Text="I don't know if the etymology of &quot;stop&quot; is so clear, actually. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture_stop says that &quot;stop&quot; is the actual physical structure restricting the aperture size (hence the term &quot;stopping down&quot;). So it may or may not relate to tactile feedback &quot;stops&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:15:04.900" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11401" PostId="8183" Text="@Benjamin Cutler: ha, I drew that same picture and was coming to the same conclusion. :) So yeah. But the rectangle has an advantage _if you were going to make a rectangular final image anyway_. Which I guess takes us to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8142/ :)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:19:41.880" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11402" PostId="8256" Text="Okay - so although I can't use the aperture ring I can use the camera controls to adjust it? I am shooting in full manual, so I will give that a go - thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:41:51.767" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="11403" PostId="8260" Score="2" Text="I can't see where is the behind or side of a firework :)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:44:43.897" />
  <row Id="11404" PostId="8260" Score="1" Text="Think upwind vs. downwind.  The smoke is going to spread in the direction of the air flow.  If you are upwind, the smoke will be blown away from you, and if you are downwind it will be blown toward you.  If there is no wind, you may have a situation where the smoke just expands in place--not an ideal situation." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:04:53.153" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11405" PostId="8259" Score="1" Text="“Make sure you are ready to take pictures of the first fireworks. If there isn’t much wind, you are going to end up with a lot of smoke in your shot. The first explosions are usually the sharpest one.” &lt;- from http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-photograph-fireworks" CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:04:54.917" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11406" PostId="8263" Text="Related question about focusing in complete darkness: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1783/how-to-focus-in-complete-darkness" CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:11:21.720" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="11407" PostId="8242" Text="I think this is great! I've been planning on something similar, but haven't yet refined it to a &quot;formal&quot; workflow. Kudos for good ideas. The re-review after few monts is a noteworthy addition, too." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:27:37.433" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="11408" PostId="8260" Score="1" Text="Behind: Opposite of the direction the fireworks are going to. Side: Photographing orthogonally to the direction the firework is moving." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:28:30.223" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11409" PostId="8262" Text="I am absolutely interested in the vision system as a whole here, not merely the physical construction. THanks." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:29:30.813" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11410" PostId="8046" Text="@Matt Grum — sorry about that; I had meant to have that more clear in the original question. " CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:36:00.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11411" PostId="8257" Score="1" Text="I feel like this is the obvious implicit answer... But somebody SHOULD post it. Thanks. +1" CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:36:44.097" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11412" PostId="8046" Text="I'm still surprised you don't find it relevant. Objects in the world interact with different wavelengths of light in a concrete way, giving them a certain &quot;ideal&quot; color as perceived by (say) &quot;God's eye&quot;. Our own eyes, though we take it for granted, record a very small subset of that in a rather idiosyncratic way, and our brain processes that into a perception of color. Cameras record a *different* subset of that real color, and that recording is then filtered through our human perception again on viewing. It seems like understanding differences in those idiosyncrasies is very useful. " CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:37:19.787" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11413" PostId="8247" Score="1" Text="Some great points here. Many obvious. Others not at all. +1" CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:37:24.033" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11414" PostId="8262" Text="By the way, I would add that color theory _is_ science in addition to being an aspect of art. " CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:44:48.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11415" PostId="8262" Score="1" Text="It has application in both realms.  Color filtration is definitely science, but emotional perception is art." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:48:36.373" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11416" PostId="8267" Text="Really?? Do you actually start taking the picture with the hat on for a few moments? (I guess it works also with something else than a black hat? :) I'm not sure how that would work, technically." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:49:04.653" />
  <row Id="11417" PostId="8249" Text="@mattdm &quot;Factorial&quot; means much more than the mathematically narrow factorial function.  Generally it means anything related to a &quot;factor,&quot; which in turn is something that actively contributes to a result or process.  Thus &quot;factorial&quot; is apt in the context of exposing a photograph, but it is so non-specific as to be almost meaningless." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:51:20.687" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11418" PostId="8249" Score="2" Text="@Jay (+1) Really nice summary." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:52:31.620" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11419" PostId="8267" Score="6" Text="@repecmps The hat is a manual shutter." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:54:51.180" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11420" PostId="8267" Text="lol, ok, I didn't know the term..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T15:56:29.000" />
  <row Id="11421" PostId="8244" Score="4" Text="@Kendall You are right, storage is cheap and will keep getting cheaper, but *time* --to review, to organize, to search-- is not.   Do you have more than 10^4 images on your system yet?  10^5? (Just *glancing* at 10^5 pictures at one per second would take over a day.) Making best use of one's time is really the point of this question." CreationDate="2011-02-04T16:01:49.607" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11422" PostId="8267" Score="1" Text="This would only work if it was very dark in the area, dark enough that the inside of the hat is completely dark. Then what you'll get is only the exposions of the fireworks, and as a nice bonus, you can combine different fireworks. It works well from what I've heard, but I haven't had a good chance to use it yet, so..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T16:30:58.770" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11423" PostId="8249" Text="I know, but &quot;factorial system&quot; already literally has that meaning, so..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T16:33:29.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11424" PostId="8256" Text="Yes - I have tested this and you are spot on. I assumed that because it had a manual aperture ring, that was what I had to use, but you lock it at max aperture and then wind it to f1.8 using the in-camera setting just like you said. Thank you :)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T16:49:44.413" UserId="2114" />
  <row Id="11425" PostId="8270" Text="That is a very enlightening answer, thanks very much. I will keep this question opened for the moment to get more ideas from others. If you have more ideas, don't hesitate to share them, I will read them all :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T17:05:31.020" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="11426" PostId="8271" Text="Thanks very much for the answer. If you have more ideas, don't hesitate to share them :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T17:06:05.387" UserId="2641" />
  <row Id="11427" PostId="8249" Text="@mattdm: It's important to remember that there were some early aperture specifications that *were* factorial systems. I totally agree that for modern usage it makes absolutely no sense to think of an 'f-stop' as a 'factorial stop,' but knowing how stuff can get 'passed down from generation to generation as a tradition' it isn't hard to see how people would think that's what it means simply because 'that's what I was taught, and that's what my teacher was taught, and that's what *his* teacher was taught since time immemorial!' without stopping to think about whether it makes a lick of sense..." CreationDate="2011-02-04T17:12:38.917" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11428" PostId="8249" Text="Huh; I'd love to see an example of that. (The thing that comes to mind is &quot;why?&quot;) But excellent point re Tradition." CreationDate="2011-02-04T17:31:57.213" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11429" PostId="2578" Text="I'm always alarmed by the frequency at which KR is cited here, especially when he says things like tripods are obsolete because *&quot;IS and VR lenses eliminate blur caused by  camera motion&quot;* and using a tripod *&quot;encourages the misuse of smaller apertures which soften images.&quot;* The truth is that tripods, monopods, supports etc. are increasingly **more** important with digital as constantly rising megapixels counts throw the one-over-focal-length min shutter speed rule out the window! " CreationDate="2011-02-04T17:56:18.780" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11430" PostId="8244" Score="1" Text="@eWolf sorry if I wasn't clear enough.  By &quot;when I take pictures with a manual focus lens&quot; I meant with one of the old (ca. 1970s) manual focus lenses I like to use.  Or my T-mount mirror lens (not that it's difficult to guess the aperture with that one :)).  Or when I use my extension tubes which don't pass data to the camera." CreationDate="2011-02-04T18:30:11.587" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11431" PostId="8244" Text="@drewbenn Okay I see.. you have to admit that this is a quite special reason to keep photos, though :D" CreationDate="2011-02-04T18:32:40.927" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11432" PostId="8248" Text="Whether or not the &quot;stop&quot; portion of this answer is correct, I think the f-number ratio information presented here is an important part of the terminology as used today. The question asks about &quot;origins&quot;, which one can presume to be about historical origin, I just think that knowing why we write aperture numbers after &quot;f/&quot; (or sometimes say &quot;f over&quot;) is also relevant to the &quot;conceptual origin&quot;, if you will, of this terminology. This answer gets my upvote for that reason. " CreationDate="2011-02-04T18:45:30.417" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11433" PostId="8262" Text="That's not such a solid line either. Emotional perception can be science too — a soft science at least, and there's some hard science in there too. _Applying_ that science in an attempt to evoke/communicate a desired response is an aspect of art. The science isn't _necessary_ to art -- art can also be about constructing a language of color and perception based on intuition, on an external structure of symbolism, or even completely arbitrarily. But for the purposes of this question, I'm specifically interested in ways in which color science can inform art." CreationDate="2011-02-04T18:47:45.393" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11434" PostId="8238" Text="+1 - I was about to mention dcraw (http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T19:03:25.980" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="11435" PostId="8262" Score="2" Text="@mattdm, Your comments underscore the fact that photography is equal parts science and art.  More so if you do traditional film photography (I love the smell of fixer in the morning), but we are shaping the physical properties of light to artistic use." CreationDate="2011-02-04T19:39:21.357" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11436" PostId="8233" Text="Thanks for your answer! I changed your answer to the accepted one because of the great explanation and example images you provided." CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:05:52.260" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="11437" PostId="8276" Text="f/9 may be a bit much on an m43 sensor I think. You are getting into diffraction territory which will make the photo a bit unsharp all over. Open up a bit, I think f/5.6-f/8 should be optimal for that system. Not that this has anything at all to do with the noise, just thought I'd mention it. " CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:36:26.423" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11438" PostId="8281" Score="1" Text="Relevant for astro photography but quite off the mark in this case, I think!" CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:37:58.543" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11439" PostId="8280" Text="+1, and I second the suggestion to slightly overexpose (ETTR, expose to the right) without clipping. It should be noted that if you do slightly overexpose to maximize your dynamic range, you might need to boost saturation a tad in post processing to compensate. Otherwise, the lowest ISO and a longer exposure...get more light down the lens, will help immensely with noise." CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:48:10.740" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11440" PostId="8281" Text="@Staale Makes sense, but are you *sure*?  Has anybody experimented with lowering the camera's temperature to see whether noise improves?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:49:36.717" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11441" PostId="8276" Text="@Staale f/9 may be the widest setting that provides sufficient depth of field.  The difference in diffraction effects between f/9 and f/8, or even f/9 and f/5.6, is still very small." CreationDate="2011-02-04T20:51:35.963" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11442" PostId="8281" Text="Given that the basic issue is noise caused by shooting at 3200 ISO, I will stand by my statement that thermal noise is absolutely and totally irrelevant in this case, yes :)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:12:40.623" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11443" PostId="8286" Text="+1 for the focus stacking, an excellent suggestion." CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:18:38.290" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11444" PostId="8280" Text="But how can I be sure I won't blow highlights?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:24:51.447" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11445" PostId="8278" Text="_&quot;effectively simulating the result of using an ISO setting lower than the camera could ordinarily produce&quot;_ That could be the **conclusion** we can extract from that experiment... Was that was already known?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:35:31.180" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11446" PostId="8282" Text="I'm intrigued by what you say concerning jpeg versus raw.  Surely if the jpeg is less noisy than the raw, then it's a digital after-effect which I could do later on my computer, or am I just showing my ignorance of how modern cameras work!?" CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:35:37.713" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="11447" PostId="8286" Text="Useful to know.  In this case, the crystals are themselves &quot;wafer thin&quot; (to coin a phrase) so I'd have to be using something like that Canon lens to really notice it.  But I have some other similar pictures to take that aren't so thin so I'll bear this in mind for them." CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:38:18.083" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="11448" PostId="8280" Score="4" Text="Watch the histogram, either on your camera or in your results." CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:42:46.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11449" PostId="8282" Text="That's based off the samples from DP Review.  It definitely is contrary to conventional wisdom.  My guess is that there is still some noise reduction happening for JPEG even if you tell it not to. Software noise reduction will reduce your sharpness, so it's usually one of the last things you want to do (before sharpening)." CreationDate="2011-02-04T21:57:18.523" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11450" PostId="8278" Text="As somepoint, longer exposures will increase noise (due to sensor thermal dissapation)" CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:02:26.280" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="11451" PostId="8236" Score="5" Text="PS: I like this question. It is an important question. Too many thousands of pictures pile up on harddrives never to be seen and never to be shown because they are not good enough - but never to be deleted too, so adding a lot of useless distraction to the collection." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:07:11.863" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11452" PostId="8280" Score="4" Text="Just note that exposing to the right at anything other than the lowest ISO is a redundant exercise. Shooting +1 EV at ISO 200 is not as good as +0 EV at ISO 100. When at ISO 100, *then* shoot +1 EV. But make sure you're not clipping." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:13:16.487" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11453" PostId="8282" Score="1" Text="Raw is only more noisy if it hasn't had noise reduction. Your camera is most likely applying noise reduction as JPEG is created *from* the raw data whether in camera or in your photo suite. I would just shoot raw." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:17:20.003" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11454" PostId="8276" Text="Try to use whiter lights as well, though if you're shooting raw, fixing white balance isn't a big issue." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:22:13.147" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11455" PostId="8278" Score="1" Text="@Alan: That's true, but it takes a pretty long exposure to do that. I would put 30s at the very lower bound of the length of time needed to create enough thermal noise, and exposures around 1 minute or longer are usually needed to exhibit fixed pattern noise and an increased noise floor." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:22:20.560" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11456" PostId="8286" Score="1" Text="If the crystals are thin to start with, I would open up your aperture as wide as you can and still maintain the sharpness you need. You are currently using f/9, which is a significant part of why you need to use a higher ISO. " CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:23:16.970" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11457" PostId="2578" Text="@Matt: On the other hand, available ISO sensitivities go up as well." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:26:33.817" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="11458" PostId="8278" Score="1" Text="Sure. I just wanted to point out longer exposure doesn't produce a decreasing amount of noise." CreationDate="2011-02-04T22:49:45.783" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="11459" PostId="8280" Score="1" Text="@Nick, that does not tally with my experience in this matter. A TTR 1600 actually has less shadow noise than an on-meter 800, I have found. There are other drawbacks such as smaller dynamic range, that is true." CreationDate="2011-02-04T23:00:59.527" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11460" PostId="8273" Text="+1 from me as this is what I have. Trouble is I still have not got the inside 100% to what I like!" CreationDate="2011-02-04T23:02:28.777" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="11461" PostId="8046" Text="One tidbit I find particularly interesting here is the way yellow is perceived. To me at least yellow has a certain &quot;primary&quot; feel, beyond that of, say, cyan or magenta or purple. Maybe that's due to mixing paints in kindergarten (the RYB subtractive model!), but maybe it's influenced to some degree by its place in our &quot;native&quot; colorspace. " CreationDate="2011-02-05T00:15:28.283" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11462" PostId="8281" Score="1" Text="No doubt that ISO 3200 is the cause of *most* noise. But thermal noise is still a factor, and thus I thought it should be mentioned." CreationDate="2011-02-05T01:11:55.913" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11463" PostId="8281" Text="&quot;Has anybody experimented with lowering the camera's temperature to see whether noise improves?&quot; I suspect you'd have to nearly freeze the camera body to make enough of a difference, and then you'd have problems with condensation forming inside the shutter cavity. A common-sense approach will probably work better; Start with the camera at a normal temperature, provide enough light to allow a reasonably short shutter speed at a low ISO. An off-camera flash bouncing off a reflector, and shooting into some diffusion panels should work cheaply and well. Multiple flashes would be better. " CreationDate="2011-02-05T01:59:45.003" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11464" PostId="8276" Score="1" Text="The more light you can throw onto it the better off you'll be. It will allow you to increase your depth-of-field by using a smaller aperture, and, at the same time, reduce noise by reducing your ISO. I'd go for a lower ISO as the priority because it will reduce the noise, allowing you to crop into the image if necessarily." CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:03:09.043" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11465" PostId="8255" Text="Just as a FYI, a higher pixel count doesn't necessarily equate to a better image. Larger senses have larger pixel sites, which gather more light, resulting in lower noise. It's amazing what sort of photo you can get from a well set-up 1D image, even though it's the oldest sensor of Canon's digitals." CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:06:45.950" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11466" PostId="8267" Score="3" Text="It works because you get many explosions and trails in one image, rather than one or two. The trick is to set up an exposure lasting 15-30 seconds, and catch multiple explosions in that time. Some new bodies allow in-camera multiple exposures, which would be a better solution than a long-exposure with a blocked lens." CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:20:48.683" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11467" PostId="8267" Score="1" Text="@Greg: For that matter, you could combine them in post, but..." CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:25:11.537" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11468" PostId="8267" Text="...unless you have to align any objects in the scene like trees, towers, or mask out clouds, then it takes a lot more time." CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:31:25.803" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11469" PostId="8281" Text="@Greg I agree, but it's an interesting question.  After all, once we have done all we can to reduce noise from other sources (by lowering ISO, etc.), any residual noise suddenly becomes more prominent.  The question gets more interesting and more of a practical issue in long-exposure situations.  The condensation can be avoided using appropriate measures--I was actually more concerned about the electronics failing." CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:42:09.167" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11470" PostId="8244" Score="1" Text="2 terabyte drives are now getting down to reasonable prices... So I'm a fan of this method." CreationDate="2011-02-05T03:48:57.507" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11471" PostId="8281" Text="I've edited the answer to include a link to an actual study that shows how much temperature can effect the image. I hope this illustrates that it's a factor worth considering." CreationDate="2011-02-05T03:50:15.827" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11472" PostId="8266" Text="+1 on the external flash firing a grid, that helps 1000%, lets you focus in the dark." CreationDate="2011-02-05T04:22:26.673" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="11473" PostId="8263" Text="Is the focus assist light firing? That should help." CreationDate="2011-02-05T04:23:47.357" UserId="934" />
  <row Id="11474" PostId="8288" Score="1" Text="Thank you! An interesting post overall. Specifically, bits like the reason red and blue cause that reaction next to each other are _exactly_ what I was looking for. I'm _sure_ there's a _lot_ more along those lines." CreationDate="2011-02-05T04:52:18.053" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11475" PostId="8278" Text="@Alan: A longer exposure *at a lower ISO* to maintain the same overall EV **does** produce lower noise, until you reach an exposure time that begins to exhibit thermally related noise. If the original exposure was 1/250th of a second at f/9 and ISO 3200, you could easily open the aperture to f/3.2, lengthened the exposure to 1/30th of a second, and used ISO 100 for considerably less noise at the same final EV." CreationDate="2011-02-05T04:56:18.953" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11476" PostId="8210" Text="i just went ahead and ordered it online... (couldn't wait haha)... thanks for the suggestion... it looks like a great bag for what i'm looking for..." CreationDate="2011-02-05T04:56:21.937" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="11477" PostId="8280" Text="http://chromasoft.blogspot.com/2009/09/why-expose-to-right-is-just-plain-wrong.html" CreationDate="2011-02-05T05:00:44.110" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11478" PostId="2239" Text="Interesting...as someone looking to buy an entry-level DSLR, i enjoy reading Ken Rockwell, as he talks about things in non-technical terms that i can relate to. What specifically does he talk about that is nonsense? I'd love to know as i wouldn't want to make a mistake in buying. I'm especially interested in the whole Canon v Nikon thing, as i'm starting from scratch building a system, and he seems to think that the Nikon system/lenses are better than the equivalent Canon system/lenses at the moment (at least at the bottom end of the market)." CreationDate="2011-02-05T05:24:36.600" UserId="3660" />
  <row Id="11479" PostId="8244" Score="1" Text="@whuber I have well over 10^5 photos.  As I said what takes time is actually figuring out what to throw away, in a land of marginal shots... what I find takes less time is figuring out what to elevate, with a quick pass through for one-star ratings.  Then I can pass by the unrated things for quick access to the stuff I care about at the moment, while not removing the possibility of later review.  I do think it's pretty helpful to use an organizational tool like Aperture or Lightroom to be able to work with large numbers of photos.   I have no problem quickly searching the whole set." CreationDate="2011-02-05T05:29:42.073" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="11480" PostId="2239" Score="1" Text="@anthonyg: One example would be his persistent advice to shoot JPEG instead of raw format. I'm not one to say &quot;there ought to be a law&quot;, but this should be a crime. Anybody shooting a camera that can produce raw output probably cares enough about quality that he'll eventually wish he had raw files, even if he does't yet." CreationDate="2011-02-05T05:45:32.987" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11481" PostId="2239" Text="@Jerry thanks, I see what you mean...I've always found that advice counter-intuitive actually, knowing how JPEG compression actually works" CreationDate="2011-02-05T05:52:31.193" UserId="3660" />
  <row Id="11482" PostId="8288" Text="There really isn't much else; the definitive reference is probably still Itten's *The Elements of Color* ( http://www.amazon.com/Elements-Color-Treatise-System-Johannes/dp/0471289299 ). I don't know that it's a reference you need to buy and keep around; it's not very heavy reading, and a once-through will give you more than enough to carry with you for life." CreationDate="2011-02-05T06:28:11.700" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11483" PostId="8291" Score="1" Text="I usually skip #1 so I won't miss another shot." CreationDate="2011-02-05T06:29:02.093" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="11484" PostId="8275" Score="1" Text="Anyone who downvoted this question, (-1 reps as of now), do you care to explain why? user3709, welcome to the community. Personally, I don't understand what's so wrong with this question. The fact that there are 2 good answers means that the question is valid." CreationDate="2011-02-05T06:55:55.373" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11485" PostId="8281" Score="1" Text="&quot;At the very least, this means not taking pictures after it's been busy for a while&quot;: I think that this piece of can be *very* relevant here. I just had a longish session of macro photography using live view, and it heated up the body so much that my ISO 100 shots had much more noise than what I would expect in normal conditions." CreationDate="2011-02-05T11:53:01.457" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11486" PostId="8280" Score="1" Text="@Nick Bedford I just read that chromasoft article, basically he makes comparisons about noise whilst allowing the G10s built in noise reduction to do unknown things to the images! I repeated his experiment with a DSLR and got the opposite results. I will post the results soon, but basically they confirm ETTR works, even at high ISOs." CreationDate="2011-02-05T16:04:19.527" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11487" PostId="8296" Text="It at least looks like the reverse is true of the pin at the far right: recessed in the upper photo, but not in the lower. I'm not sure what's transmitted on that pin and/or what its being recessed does, but you may need to take both into account for it to make sense..." CreationDate="2011-02-05T16:35:01.120" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11488" PostId="8280" Text="@Nick, I've posted my results at the end of my answer, I seriously wouldn't lend that article any credence when it comes to noise, all the author has discovered is that the G10 does weird things with noise reduction." CreationDate="2011-02-05T16:40:23.157" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11489" PostId="8296" Text="Thanks for pointing out, I missed that difference. According to the K-mount page that pin is for K-F mount so hopefully it's not relevant here. " CreationDate="2011-02-05T16:45:02.090" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="11490" PostId="478" Text="I've just compiled the head version; it's very nice .. the best I've used in Linux so far (http://rawtherapee.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9957#9957)" CreationDate="2011-02-05T17:23:37.783" UserId="3718" />
  <row Id="11491" PostId="8278" Text="FYI, there's no hyperlink on/near &quot;Here is the article&quot; near chills42's quote." CreationDate="2011-02-05T17:27:54.657" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11492" PostId="8278" Score="1" Text="@Craig, cheers I've added it in now." CreationDate="2011-02-05T17:58:26.383" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11493" PostId="8301" Text="Thanks - that's a great resource .. will be good to get me started." CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:27:45.443" UserId="3718" />
  <row Id="11494" PostId="8300" Score="2" Text="There's so many possibilities here that I think maybe this should be a community wiki." CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:31:08.433" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11495" PostId="8278" Text="@jrisita: whoops I mistyped. I meant that a longer exposure doesn't **always** produce a decreasing amount of noise--as you said, when the sensor starts to overheat due to long exposures." CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:44:00.663" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="11496" PostId="8307" Text="I hoped I was wrong... so, if we accept the price difference, do you have a recommendation?" CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:51:03.233" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="11497" PostId="8307" Text="I'm not enough of a Canon guy to speak to the quality of those lenses.  On specs alone, one of the first two looks like a good choice." CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:54:01.780" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11498" PostId="8307" Text="Ok, thanks for your comments." CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:57:35.597" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="11499" PostId="8306" Text="You should be aware of this: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4175/depth-of-field-preview-optical-viewfinder-canon-500d-large-aperture (also I have the Sigma 30/1.4, I like it.)" CreationDate="2011-02-05T20:00:32.133" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11500" PostId="8073" Score="2" Text="+1 for use of the word inclement" CreationDate="2011-02-05T20:06:11.980" UserId="3718" />
  <row Id="11501" PostId="8305" Text="This is basically what Lorem Ipsum is about." CreationDate="2011-02-05T20:58:56.087" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11502" PostId="8311" Score="1" Text="+1 - nice answer." CreationDate="2011-02-05T21:12:22.973" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11503" PostId="8312" Text="These patterns seem to refer to frequency sampling for video, not JPEG encoding." CreationDate="2011-02-05T21:42:34.990" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11504" PostId="8309" Text="Nice answer, especially for the careful attention to the photographer's needs (as opposed to providing an answer to the question as literally asked) and for providing quantitative rationale where appropriate." CreationDate="2011-02-05T21:45:19.227" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11505" PostId="8304" Text="This thread might also be of interest: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6605/1356" CreationDate="2011-02-05T21:46:53.530" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11506" PostId="8314" Score="1" Text="Good examples !" CreationDate="2011-02-05T22:00:50.533" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11507" PostId="8312" Text="@whuber: They're frequently used in discussing video coding, but JPEG also supports luminance with double the resolution of chrominance. In the case of JPEG, it's optional though -- chroma can be either full-res or half-res." CreationDate="2011-02-05T22:15:33.680" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11508" PostId="8309" Text="@Craig - thanks for your answer. The top priority for me would be sharpness even in low-light conditions. I could probably live with anything between 28mm and 35mm." CreationDate="2011-02-05T22:26:48.903" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="11509" PostId="8317" Score="1" Text="+1 Excellent points, especially noting that the diffraction limit is independent of focal length.  To reiterate your first point, its relationship to pixel size is due to the fact that pixels much larger than the Airy disk cannot show what's going on as clearly.  However, the softness due to diffraction is there regardless and is independent of pixel size." CreationDate="2011-02-05T22:47:14.437" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11510" PostId="7935" Text="ysap - yeah, it does depend more on the lens paired with it, but these days most sense the tripod. though, some of the new ones supposedly sense it and stay on in an less active mode. &#xA;&#xA;still, if you need IS turn it on, if you don't, turn it off. " CreationDate="2011-02-05T23:52:55.553" UserId="2403" />
  <row Id="11511" PostId="8298" Text="I've successfully used some late-90s Minolta SLR lenses with an Alpha 100, with no problems whatsoever. They are exactly the same as the newer lenses. I use a Minolta flash, too. " CreationDate="2011-02-06T00:11:05.647" UserId="276" />
  <row Id="11512" PostId="8308" Score="3" Text="Awesome, brutal, but awesome exercises!" CreationDate="2011-02-06T00:14:14.140" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11513" PostId="8308" Score="1" Text="It's like the P90X workout of photography assignments. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-06T00:50:28.413" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11514" PostId="8323" Score="2" Text="You might consider DIY: http://www.diyphotography.net/from-paper-to-ringflash-in-few-easy-steps or for something related but different  http://www.diyphotography.net/diy-macro-lighting-led-ring" CreationDate="2011-02-06T01:36:05.037" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11515" PostId="8324" Score="1" Text="I wonder what is the purpose of the bulky &quot;bouncing flash head&quot;? I assume all the electronics can be stuffed in the fixed part, and the lighting components can go in the ring." CreationDate="2011-02-06T01:38:40.197" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11516" PostId="8325" Score="1" Text="For a poor man's solution, you can create masks from ND gels to control the power of whatever sections of the ring." CreationDate="2011-02-06T01:41:13.907" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11517" PostId="8323" Text="Fine if you don't want to spend for Canon's options (the MR-14EX Macro Ring Lite or the even-more-expensive though also more adjustable and further-from-the-lens (which is better for some things, worse for others) MT-24EX Macro Twin-Lite), however, a bit of info about these flashes: they actually mount onto the front of the lens with the bayonet (?) mounts that the lens hood (ET-67) also uses, rather than the 58mm thread, however they do also cover up the threads, so you have to remove any filters -- with the MT-24EX (not MR-14EX!), new threads are provided so you can re-add them if desired." CreationDate="2011-02-06T02:52:55.267" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11518" PostId="8323" Text="follow-up: but there is a &quot;macrolite adapter&quot; available, or actually several different ones... I'm having a little trouble finding detailed information on these, but they do exist, allowing you (apparently) to screw in to the filter threads of a filter or lens -- including other sizes of threads, with different adapters." CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:01:27.193" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11519" PostId="8326" Score="1" Text="I don't think this answer will help a non-scientist." CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:38:01.997" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11520" PostId="8318" Text="Thanks for the answer, while I realise that there are specific lenses available in the micro 4/3s format - I'm specifically looking to make use of second hand lens with an adapter.  I'm not worried about losing auto-focus or auto-exposure." CreationDate="2011-02-06T04:01:59.823" UserId="3718" />
  <row Id="11521" PostId="8317" Text="Actually, diffraction is very much dependent on focal length. Diffraction depends on the wavelength of a photon and its path probability relative to an edge. The area of total transmission is proportional to the square of the radius of the aperture; the area of diffractive influence is (almost) directly proportional to the radius. It's the high proportion of diffraction and the close spacing of sensels, that makes small sensor/short focal length lenses crap out at higher fractional apertures than larger/longer combinations -- the hole is smaller, and the diffracted light hits more sensels." CreationDate="2011-02-06T04:03:46.423" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11522" PostId="8314" Score="5" Text="I think your f/1.8 and f/2.8 images are suffering a bit from focus shift. The blurriness of those images wide open does not appear to be purely due to optical aberration, which usually exhibit as *slight* softness and some CA. The CA is apparent, but particularly in the first image, it also seems clearly apparent that the image is out of focus. The f/2.8 also looks clearly out of focus, just to a lesser degree." CreationDate="2011-02-06T05:31:58.053" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11523" PostId="8329" Text="+1 Just what I was thinking. However, I believe (have not tried, though) that fabric of any color will do fine, not necessarily black. If the adhesion is for a short term, then any clear tape will be fine." CreationDate="2011-02-06T05:42:10.253" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11524" PostId="8329" Text="Thanks for the suggestion. I doubt I'll be able to set up a whole setup in a library. I definitely don't have a second person to help me. Are there any good polarizers for the s95 that don't require me to add something permanently? [I know about the lensmate setup,](http://www.lensmateonline.com/store/s90v2.php) but I'd like to have one that I can clip on and use when I want to, but leave off most of the time when I am just using it as a &quot;regular P&amp;S.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:01:41.780" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11525" PostId="8298" Text="Minolta xi lenses will lose their autozoom functionality (a neat trick where you could link zoom to autofocus and maintain subject size automatically -- it was great for runway fashion). Third-party lenses, though, are a coin toss; if the maker reverse-engineered the Minolta AF/AE interface right, they'll work, but there's no guarantee." CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:11:41.193" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11526" PostId="8329" Text="Black absorbs all colors, reflecting none. Other colors will reflect their color onto the screen, either tinting the light hitting the screen, or reflecting as that color. White, being neutral like black, will not add a tint, but it can cause glare problems on its own because light reflects from it." CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:29:36.783" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11527" PostId="8329" Text="The issue with tape is that monitors can get warm/hot. Gaffer's tape is designed to leave no residue, so it's less likely to leave goo behind when it gets warm or hot too. Regular tapes are more likely to leave a mess." CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:31:20.103" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11528" PostId="7873" Text="I specially like the idea of taking aerial photos with a kite, but I'm concerned about any damage to the camera caused by a fall. It seems I'll have to figure out how to make some kind of box to soften the hit, or a parachute could be also a good idea. Do you use any protection?" CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:32:54.720" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11529" PostId="8329" Score="2" Text="I decided to test the polarizer idea. Have a bare lightbulb just behind my back that when lit, casts a terrible glare on my laptop's LCD (and this is a non-reflective monitor on a Dell Latitude laptop). I took my Canon Circular Polarizer and looked through it. To my surprise, while rotating the ring, there was the expected darkening of the display, but almost no filtering of the light glare! Thus I am not so sure this is a valid solution to the problem. I know CPL filters work great on sunlight reflected from outdoor surfaces, but apparently not so good for artificial light sources on LCD's." CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:51:09.463" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11530" PostId="8329" Text="The reflective glare of the light bulb won't be taken away, but it will be reduced because of the polarizing. Whether it's enough to help the OP is the real question. Using a cloth to stop the ambient light from the room will help more." CreationDate="2011-02-06T07:01:43.057" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11531" PostId="8329" Text="&quot;Black absorbs all colors, reflecting none.&quot; -- Of course this is how colors work, but not in my experience with the microfilm. The films are all black &amp; white, so the pages are white and the rest of the screen is black. It is in fact the black parts of the screen which reflect the most glare." CreationDate="2011-02-06T07:05:49.303" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11532" PostId="8329" Score="1" Text="I would expect that. The black sections of the screen are not illuminated by the pixels in the monitor, so they are most likely to show reflections from the monitor's surface glass. White should show very little reflection because it's fully illuminated by the pixels behind the glass. You're confusing reflected light with projected light. The black cloth is entirely different than the monitor." CreationDate="2011-02-06T07:16:44.590" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11533" PostId="8326" Score="1" Text="That definition applies to more than x-rays; it's also used in radio/radar for antenna designs, shielding and so forth. It's a perfect example of collision between two realms with their own jargon. In photography, it refers to diffraction-limited performance, the conditions where performance can no longer be improved by stopping down due to the influence of diffraction. It's influenced by the unrestricted lens performance, actual aperture size at a given setting, the thickness of the iris relative to the wavelength and the available acuity of the recording medium." CreationDate="2011-02-06T10:49:41.077" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11534" PostId="8329" Score="2" Text="@ysap - if the bulb is directly behind you rather than hitting the screen obliquely, the reflection won't be polarized. There is another explanation for the rest of what you are seeing; I'm including that in my answer." CreationDate="2011-02-06T10:53:27.253" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11535" PostId="8324" Text="I'd guess economy of tooling -- they're probably using two caps, one in the hinge and one in the reflector body (the part that tilts). All they need to do to make a ringlight is to replace the reflector/lens assembly and add a cord to go to the flash tube carrier from the same pins/sockets that would normally go directly to the flash tube; all of the rest of the flash comes from the same parts bin as another model. It also looks like a four-tube design (rather than a true ringlight), so the parts count unique to this flash would be pretty small. Explains the price." CreationDate="2011-02-06T11:18:40.837" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11536" PostId="8309" Score="1" Text="+1 f1.8 to f2.0 is a minimal difference, i usually stop my Nikon DX 35mm f1.8 to f2.8 or such, for a bit larger DoF and better picture quality. worry more about lens construction, full time manual focus override, etc :)" CreationDate="2011-02-06T12:35:44.217" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11537" PostId="8244" Text="+1 - This is generally what I do. There are some exceptions with the odd image, but by and large, if I shot it, I keep it. In Canada, I can get a 2 terabyte external drive for under $100 with eSATA and USB 2.0 support and long before I fill these up, there will something much bigger and faster for around the same price. It's the nature of the technology." CreationDate="2011-02-06T14:39:11.040" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11538" PostId="8314" Text="yeah longitudinal CA (the purple and green fringes to the text) indicates the focus may be off in the first two images. Plus I would certainly hope the 85 f/1.8 is sharper than that at f/2.8! If you do this again I would focus stopped down with live view." CreationDate="2011-02-06T15:02:31.377" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11539" PostId="8244" Text="+1! That's how I do it too, the only images that are deleted are accidently cap-on-lens ones or where its just white or black. Albeit my images have a filesize of 11MB per pic I keep them all, because 640GB of space cost less than 50$!" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:09:49.717" UserId="3369" />
  <row Id="11540" PostId="8250" Text="+1 'cause I think this will be how I do it if I have time to change my workflow :)" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:11:36.000" UserId="3369" />
  <row Id="11541" PostId="8255" Score="1" Text="+1 I think thats a good thing to think about :)" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:12:33.003" UserId="3369" />
  <row Id="11542" PostId="7910" Text="Thanks very much Craig for the useful response... " CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:33:10.017" UserId="3585" />
  <row Id="11543" PostId="7912" Text="thanks a bunch Sergey!" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:33:37.223" UserId="3585" />
  <row Id="11544" PostId="8309" Text="You're welcome, Daniel &amp; everyone. &quot;What are you trying to do&quot; is probably the first question anyone asked for advice should give. The corollary to that is: &quot;Keep your options open&quot; when it comes to your gear, so that you can move into something new without plunking down more money." CreationDate="2011-02-06T17:29:34.303" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11545" PostId="8250" Score="2" Text="I like the smart folder for catching unreviews things after a period of time has elapsed!" CreationDate="2011-02-06T17:45:06.947" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="11546" PostId="8306" Score="1" Text="Maybe this question I recently asked can help you a bit: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7648/normal-and-fast-prime-lens-for-a-canon-aps-c-camera" CreationDate="2011-02-06T17:45:29.033" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11547" PostId="8244" Score="3" Text="This advice doesn't work at all for me.  Maybe it's because I'm mostly taking pictures of a baby, but I wind up holding the shutter down to take 6 shots of a particular pose &amp; situation, so I can get one picture where she was still enough with a nice expression.  I've got some great pictures of her -- but there's a *lot* of deleting." CreationDate="2011-02-06T17:47:47.320" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="11548" PostId="8244" Score="3" Text="@khedron - I also often take multiple images of the same subject.  I still keep all of them because you never know what is in the others you are missing, even if they seem dead similar - and it's not worth the time to remove the others vs. simply rating one image that you like the best at the moment." CreationDate="2011-02-06T18:33:17.827" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="11549" PostId="8337" Score="3" Text="One obvious way are local coffeeshops. This may not be the style of exhibition you are looking for, but it is: easy to set up, easy to get accepted, and gives a fair amount of exposure. There are some downsides: the prices for prints should be lower to appeal to the market, the work is in danger(could be bumped, touched, espresso splatter), the environment is not dedicated to appreciation of your work, and the shop may restrict certain aspects of your display(subject, size, arrangement, number). These things considered, this is one option. Other varients are restaurants and small theaters. " CreationDate="2011-02-06T19:04:39.873" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11550" PostId="8314" Text="@jrista, @matt Thank you for those suggestions.  I definitely will re-run these tests.  The LiveView idea (i.e., use of magnified image on the LCD to focus manually) is a great one.  I'm going to leave these images up, though, without posting a better set, because your comments drive home the point that you want to use the best possible settings for the exposure, so that any apparent differences among the images can be attributed only to aperture size and exposure duration." CreationDate="2011-02-06T19:08:14.640" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11551" PostId="8337" Text="Another easy one is local photo contests. Usually you can only hang a few, but at least in my area there are two or three contests per year that let you hang up to three shots in an actual photo museum for the term of the contest. This is far from ideal, but it is a way to get some exposure, and you may even win! I was even fortunate to have one shot selected for their permanent collection after the contest, so there are definitely some benefits! " CreationDate="2011-02-06T19:11:52.443" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11552" PostId="8306" Text="@eWolf: thanks! Yes, the question pretty much boils down to a choice between those two lenses. Which one did you end up buying? Currently, I favor the Canon." CreationDate="2011-02-06T19:56:21.173" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="11553" PostId="8242" Text="+1 for step 3 alone! I think a lot of us forget that aspect of it once we have the keepers. &quot;Did I miss anything in the keepers needed to tell the story?&quot; is how I tend to look at it, when I remember to do that step." CreationDate="2011-02-06T20:36:24.567" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="11554" PostId="8291" Score="3" Text="+1 for defining your rating system.  Coming up with an objective, repeatable rating system is something I continually struggle with." CreationDate="2011-02-06T21:01:15.717" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11555" PostId="8318" Text="Honestly, unless you have other uses for an adapter, I doubt you will find a good value for all this. Even used macro lenses cost money and they won't be designed for digital sensors which will reduce quality due to the angle of incident light at the rear. I suggest you look at the price of used macro diopters for whichever lens you already have, it has more chances of giving you better value." CreationDate="2011-02-06T21:35:46.870" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11556" PostId="8340" Score="2" Text="You could go with an underwater housing :P" CreationDate="2011-02-06T22:39:56.547" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11557" PostId="8308" Text="This is the kind of thing I'm after - almost like drill practice. Thx." CreationDate="2011-02-07T00:30:11.760" UserId="3718" />
  <row Id="11558" PostId="8275" Text="I wasn't the one who downvoted it, but if I had to take a guess, I'd say that the answer 'why' is probably contained in @Stan's answer... It took him longer to type the answer than it would have taken the OP to simply Google the information..." CreationDate="2011-02-07T01:01:26.770" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11559" PostId="8314" Score="1" Text="I've thrown together an animated GIF sequence that demonstrates the effect of diffraction in an answer below. I used a Canon 450D, so the DLA is f/8.4, which means f/11 and below start to exhibit diffraction softening. Its interesting that even with the diffraction softening of f/22, it is still sharper than f/2 or wider." CreationDate="2011-02-07T01:47:45.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11560" PostId="8340" Score="1" Text="The term you were looking for is an **ever-ready** case, and there's a reason why we used to call them **never-ready** cases. I liked them on rangefinder cameras (like the leaf-shutter Minolta) where you had to half-disassemble the camera anyway to change the film, but I remember throwing out the one I got with my X-700 within a couple of weeks. You had to take the case off far too often, and the knurled screw really didn't give enough contact with a tripod for anything but level landscape-oriented camera positions." CreationDate="2011-02-07T02:35:57.983" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11561" PostId="8249" Text="From the above summary, it seems pretty clear that the &quot;f&quot; comes from the word &quot;fractional&quot;.  Even though using it with the word &quot;stop&quot; is a much more recent trend." CreationDate="2011-02-07T03:36:46.940" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11562" PostId="8340" Score="2" Text="I didn't use a tripod enough for it to be a problem and I don't remember any issues with flipping the top half off. I do remember it being really easy and handy, and no ordeal with a separate case hanging around your neck. It didn't have the feel of taking a picture with no case, but when one the go it was fine. It does seem these cases have fallen out of favor with newer cameras though." CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:11:19.177" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11563" PostId="8347" Text="I did hang below but I never remember it being a problem. Plus I could unsnap that part if needed. I remember spending a day sightseeing in Paris with my friends and getting food, shopping, etc, and being able to whip it open for a picture, and quickly cover it leaving it around my neck with no worry. I have found a few linked in my own answer. But it's hard to tell if theses will indeed be as easy as I remember. And like you said, with the cut out of the controls and screen perhaps it will be less than ideal. I'd add though that the actual Canon version seems very well liked if expensive. " CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:15:32.247" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11564" PostId="8299" Text="So does this lack of coating to prevent sensor flares a &quot;deal-breaker&quot; on older lenses, or is it something I'll only notice under unusual circumstances?" CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:15:59.747" UserId="3719" />
  <row Id="11565" PostId="8342" Text="thansk for the links! " CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:16:18.313" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11566" PostId="8298" Text="Thanks for your response. Aperture not changing took a bit of thinking, but I got it now." CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:19:34.600" UserId="3719" />
  <row Id="11567" PostId="8352" Text="Like you, I miss the leather ever-ready case. If you buy one please give us some feedback about how well it works." CreationDate="2011-02-07T06:13:31.370" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11568" PostId="8216" Score="1" Text="I just wish agents didn't love the ultra-wide shots so much; they can be so misleading." CreationDate="2011-02-07T06:41:11.893" UserId="3004" />
  <row Id="11569" PostId="8043" Text="this is a great question.  There are optical illusions that are carefully constructed manually to exploit how gullible our visual system is.  I wonder if photographers have done anything in this area (color/brightness, not perspective illusions)." CreationDate="2011-02-07T06:48:16.737" UserId="3745" />
  <row Id="11570" PostId="8219" Text="I think that my issue is the sluggishness of the hard drive in the Mac Book Pro... so I'm not sure embedding the RAW files inside a DNG is going to help much :p" CreationDate="2011-02-07T07:31:14.250" UserId="3647" />
  <row Id="11571" PostId="8340" Score="1" Text="I just loved this case for my fathers EXA I. Never had any problems with the tripod - but off course you had to take it off for changing the film. I'd really like to have something for my D90 too." CreationDate="2011-02-07T08:01:41.440" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11572" PostId="7873" Text="The idea is new for me too. I won't protect the camera, as it nears end-of-life anyway (sensor acting up) and took a lot of hits by me falling on top of it during snowboarding without any problems. I'd guess a big package of expanded polysterene around the camera should dampen an hard impact of kite and camera enough." CreationDate="2011-02-07T08:07:30.930" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11573" PostId="8357" Score="1" Text="I think my brain just exploded." CreationDate="2011-02-07T08:31:21.343" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11574" PostId="8315" Text="This was stated in the question. Provide a more detailed answer." CreationDate="2011-02-07T08:33:37.627" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11575" PostId="6009" Score="1" Text="I know this doesn't answer your question, but a mate of mine on a tight budget spends a long time sitting in his &quot;hide&quot; with a 200mm lens, and gets amazing photos.  If you can't afford the upgrade, perhaps you could invest some time to improve your bird photography routine." CreationDate="2011-02-07T09:55:32.313" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="11576" PostId="8348" Text="Can you post any examples? " CreationDate="2011-02-07T11:06:41.720" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11577" PostId="8358" Text="im using medium format, kodak porta nc film. scanner is set to color negatives." CreationDate="2011-02-07T11:17:05.270" UserId="3744" />
  <row Id="11578" PostId="8306" Text="@Daniel I didn't buy any lens yet, but I'll go tomorrow. I'll try out both once again, but I tend pretty heavily to the Sigma. It's got 1.4 and way better image quality - the sharpness wasn't that important for me, but the Canon's got terrible purple fringing." CreationDate="2011-02-07T11:17:56.360" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11579" PostId="8306" Text="@Daniel Here is a sample shot @ f/1.8 - the purple fringing is clearly visible: http://cl.ly/4Raw" CreationDate="2011-02-07T11:50:28.487" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11580" PostId="8306" Text="@eWolf - impressive! I'd love to see the same picture with the Sigma." CreationDate="2011-02-07T12:39:35.323" UserId="3588" />
  <row Id="11581" PostId="8353" Text="Not posting this as an answer, but I'm not a fan of digital ice.  It takes the scanner a lot longer to scan the image and in general creates some artifacts.  B&amp;W + Ice = banded rings of halo effects.  Color + Ice = not too different from 4x oversampled color.  I personally would scan the set in as &quot;proofs&quot; so to speed, and when I decide I want one in high quality I take the time on that one frame." CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:13:12.090" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11582" PostId="8312" Score="1" Text="The GIMP will use chroma subsampling by default when saving a JPEG, though it's easy to override.  Can't remember if this applies to Photoshop too." CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:20:55.020" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11583" PostId="8339" Text="What a fantastic answer. Presumably, though f/1.2 should read f/1.4 in your closing comments." CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:22:15.393" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="11584" PostId="8306" Text="@Daniel Well, this was a Canon shop, so I don't have the same picture with the Sigma. Also, I don't have a shot that is very similar.. But from what I've seen so far, purple fringing, if present, is not noticeable on the Sigma." CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:23:43.517" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="11585" PostId="8315" Text="@Nick Where was &quot;this&quot; stated in the question, exactly?  The question, as it stands now, says &quot;In YCbCr color space for a 24 bit JPEG image, how are the bits distributed?&quot;  I have said how they are distributed, assuming--as anyone who understands the question would--that the channels are Y, Cb, and Cr.  My answer is a correct summary of the Wikipedia article.  SE policy is to provide summaries rather than copy material wholesale (although it's easy, I admit, to provide some borderline examples of long quotations elsewhere on this site)." CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:25:58.867" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11586" PostId="8339" Text="@jrista +1.  Great answer, but now I am confused.  Early on you assert &quot;the amount of diffraction ... is directly proportional to the physical aperture,&quot; but later you quote a formula &quot;fc = 1 / (λ * f#) cycles/mm&quot;.  That is an immediate consequence of the formula for the diameter (d) of the Airy disk (quoted on Wikipedia): &quot;d = 1.22 λ f#&quot;.  Clearly d does *not* depend on the physical aperture size, so what, then, do you mean by &quot;amount of diffraction&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:34:10.397" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11587" PostId="8317" Text="@Stan Could you then please explain why the formula for the Airy Disk diameter on Wikipedia is *independent* of focal length?  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffraction#Diffraction-limited_imaging )" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:35:53.327" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11588" PostId="8314" Score="1" Text="@jrista Thank you.  Although the series of images I posted here is likely marred by the focusing issue, I have created comparable series every time I bought a new lens and consistently have made the same observation.  This is especially useful information for landscape and other wide DoF photographers, who might have been avoiding the more extreme f/stops.  Another intriguing aspect of diffraction is that, due to its physical regularity (the spreading on the image depends only on the color and the f/stop) it should be easy to deconvolve (sharpen away) in post-processing." CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:40:43.803" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11589" PostId="8362" Text="That's built-in to Gimp, not a plugin. (It may have been a plugin several versions ago.)" CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:12:48.587" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11590" PostId="8361" Text="Note that some cameras actually _do_ apply some  noise reduction at step 4. (Sony A850, for example.)" CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:21:08.930" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11591" PostId="8361" Score="1" Text="+1 for the &quot;timeline view&quot;, btw." CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:21:42.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11592" PostId="8317" Score="1" Text="The confusion stems from the fact that the numbers we use to represent aperture depend on focal length (F/4 = 100mm focal-length / 25mm aperture diameter). In fact, all you really need is the aperture diameter and the pixel size to define the diffraction limit." CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:25:08.070" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11593" PostId="8315" Text="I think this kind of answer, while not as great as a full explanation, is way better than one which just cuts and pastes from the Wikipedia, or even which paraphrases a whole Wikipedia article. If the Wikipedia is good, telling people about it is helpful. And if that's _all_ your answer is contributing, being upfront and just giving a quick summary and a link is exactly the right thing to do." CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:27:07.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11594" PostId="8350" Score="2" Text="+1 Excellent technical answer and bonus for being familiar with the OP's environment. (I know nothing of ice skating but found this informative.)" CreationDate="2011-02-07T14:58:26.230" UserId="63" />
  <row Id="11595" PostId="8362" Text="It's a standard plugin that gets installed with the application.  In programming terms, it's techinically a plugin." CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:06:56.897" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="11596" PostId="1458" Text="Thinking of it as &quot;undo&quot; data works conceptually but isn't technically accurate. And since the question says &quot;technically&quot;...." CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:52:08.513" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11597" PostId="8244" Score="1" Text="-1 First, the question was &quot;what is a good strategy for choosing what to keep&quot; not &quot;should I delete bad photos&quot;. Second I honestly can't see how managing a bloated collection of images saves time vs. just deleting bad, poor, or non-compelling images to cut down the size of said collection. If you tag and rate your images up front, deleting photos based on some criteria won't take any more time. It's arguable that the time it takes to manage a collection of files grows non-linearly with the size of the collection. Especially if the collection spans multiple disks." CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:54:12.737" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11598" PostId="8339" Text="The formula for `fc` is to calculate the diffraction cutoff frequency, or the point where you simply can't resolve more detail, diffraction or not, for a given aperture. As for the formula for diffraction, I understand it is not quite as simple as that. Large format photography is a good example of this, as diffraction blurring is not much of a problem until you reach extremely small apertures such as f/64 or even as high as f/180. If only the relative aperture mattered, then the experiences of large format photographers would not be true. References are coming...I just have to dig them up." CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:55:56.027" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11599" PostId="8046" Score="1" Text="Here's another technical follow-up question: why _do_ we use RGB for sensors rather than following the L, M, S cells more precisely? Wouldn't that be inherently better?" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:56:52.703" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11600" PostId="8219" Text="That is correct, it is not going to help much. But my tip was just an addition to jrista's answer about keeping the original RAW and not a tip to speed up Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:21:34.780" UserId="2553" />
  <row Id="11601" PostId="8250" Text="+1 I like the idea of flagging or rating the images before actually choosing what to delete.  First, this process of adds value to the collection and is easier to do because your not actually deleting anything.  Secondly, it makes the process of deleting all rejects very quick and simple (i.e. if you start running out of space, you can delete all rejects—or just the *really* bad ones if you are deleteaphobic—instead of having to sort through all images to find bad ones to delete)." CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:27:27.253" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11602" PostId="8343" Text="possible duplicate of [Why Must I Lock The Aperture On My AF Lens On My Nikon D40](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8252/why-must-i-lock-the-aperture-on-my-af-lens-on-my-nikon-d40)" CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:27:34.227" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11603" PostId="8365" Text="I've been hired by a magazine to do the photography for a story they are working on, and the contract I signed states that I must submit my RAW files. Nothing about DNG, so I don't think that will fly." CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:28:59.263" UserId="3751" />
  <row Id="11604" PostId="8242" Score="1" Text="+1  Organizing photos before deleting is a great idea.  If your not organizing photos, it doesn't matter whether you're deleting or not, as the collection grows, the cost of managing it grows too.  Once the photos are organized finding and deleting the &quot;bad&quot; is very quick and painless." CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:30:15.473" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11605" PostId="8365" Score="3" Text="@Curtis Cunningham - DNG is raw and you can embed the original inside as part of the export if truly needed. You can always contact them, but I'd be shocked if they wouldn't accept DNG." CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:56:39.900" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11606" PostId="8339" Score="1" Text="@whuber: My apologies. I finally found my large format references, however it appears that their assertations were based solely on &quot;contact prints&quot; for 4x5 and 8x10. With contact prints, the CoC is FAR larger than is necessary for 35mm or APS-C size formats. With 4x5 film, the &quot;acceptable&quot; CoC was listed as 0.2mm, while for FF digital it is about 0.02mm, a difference of a factor of ten. I'll have to correct my answer, since contact prints are only one form of printing, and any enlargement will change the CoC, reducing the acceptable aperture." CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:57:57.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11607" PostId="8244" Text="@Benj: (1) not throwing away anything IS A STRATEGY. (2) Choosing what to delete and the actual act of deleting takes more time than simply quickly selecting favorites. You have to ALSO delete after you have tagged and rated - after that step I am done. As for multiple disks, 2TB drives are under $100 now - most people will not need multiple disks, and those that do (I have multiple disks) would require that even if they were deleting files." CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:01:48.510" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="11608" PostId="8339" Text="@jrista Ah, that makes sense: large film formats are basically large sensors with (the analog equivalents of) the same pixel sizes as the smaller formats (for the same type of film).  The larger the format, the more diffraction you can tolerate.  Because the Airy disk radius is proportional to the f/stop, and 8x10 is about 10 times larger than 35 mm film, the effect of diffraction at f/9 on the 35 mm negative *relative to the size of the negative* would be the same as f/90 on the 8x10 negative relative to its size." CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:30:44.483" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11609" PostId="8339" Text="Lots of good info, but I think you actually skip the part of defining what the term means, per se. Presumably this is because you're referencing others who have done so? I think it would be best if you did, as well -- especially since &quot;whubers sequence of images&quot; is no longer &quot;above&quot; on the page. :) " CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:42:40.977" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11611" PostId="8304" Score="1" Text="There were several good answers here - wish I could have accepted more than one." CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:51:59.643" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11612" PostId="8377" Text="Thanks for the great detail. I Edited my question to show what I'm looking at." CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:20:03.030" UserId="1310" />
  <row Id="11613" PostId="8378" Text="The plan is to do portraits of infants and small families. My wife also likes to do a little bit of fashion. The room is only about 12'x 20'." CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:21:07.630" UserId="1310" />
  <row Id="11614" PostId="8372" Text="At $400, it's too pricey to recommend. Have you considered a strobist based kit in conjunction with ebay triggers? " CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:25:48.863" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="11615" PostId="8339" Text="@lindes: If by &quot;defining what the *term* means&quot;, you are referring to the term &quot;diffraction limit&quot;, I think I explained that fairly well, in my discussion on Image Medium. Is there a different term you are referring to?" CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:25:55.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11616" PostId="8372" Text="I haven't considered much since this is our first &quot;studio&quot; type setup, and I really have no idea what to look for.  What is this &quot;strobist based kit&quot; you speak of :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:30:36.320" UserId="1310" />
  <row Id="11617" PostId="8372" Text="Also, $400 is about our max right now." CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:33:14.680" UserId="1310" />
  <row Id="11618" PostId="8362" Text="Why so it is. In modern Gimp, it doesn't show up under filters, which I guess I still have associated with plug-ins in my mind even though I shouldn't. (It's on the Colors menu.) " CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:38:49.863" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11619" PostId="8288" Text="I think it's funny that you say &quot;there's not much else besides the red/blue interaction&quot;, while Matt Grum says &quot;there's not much else besides the number of green sensors in bayer&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:45:34.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11620" PostId="8337" Score="3" Text="@BBischof — that looks like it should be an answer, not just a comment." CreationDate="2011-02-07T19:49:50.707" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11621" PostId="8288" Text="It's not that red/blue is *everything*, but that red/blue is the worst example of the phenomenon -- all saturated (pure) colors of very different wavelengths will exhibit the phenomenon to one degree or another -- but that understanding that piece of the puzzle's about it *in photography*. Contextual color shift (the way a color appears to change depending on what's around it, and the other big optical concern; I'll add it to my answer) is more of a painter/designer's problem and really only comes into play in extreme post-processing. Reproducing Itten here, though, is a bit much." CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:13:46.567" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11622" PostId="8351" Text="Panning is so damn hard, if you did it then you MUST have meant to do that!" CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:36:56.823" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11623" PostId="8244" Text="@Kendall: (1) Fair enough, your right that not doing anything is always an option, however the way the question was phrased led me to believe that the asker already made the decision to delete photos, and were wanting guidance as to how to most efficiently do so." CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:41:38.310" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11624" PostId="8337" Text="I don't know, maybe. It seems a bit half baked and insufficient for such an important question. Of course I am not opposed to this being an answer. Just let me know. " CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:58:47.760" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11625" PostId="8372" Text="http://strobist.blogspot.com/ is a good place to get started, especially his lightin 101 and 102 series. Basically he talks about using smaller flash strobes to mimic the behavior of studio strobes. --upon further research, the cheapest strobist 2light kid is $500... :( But the concept is the same." CreationDate="2011-02-07T21:44:56.067" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="11626" PostId="8372" Text="We do already have an SB-600 and an SB-800. These are both really great flashes. We just don't like the battery consumption." CreationDate="2011-02-07T22:05:35.067" UserId="1310" />
  <row Id="11627" PostId="8351" Text="@Itai - it's not really that hard but does take some practice. See my edit in my answer. " CreationDate="2011-02-07T22:51:34.433" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11628" PostId="8311" Text="How does a tilt shift differ in this respect?" CreationDate="2011-02-07T22:59:40.310" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="11629" PostId="8350" Text="Also check what your focus point actually was for the shot. The info should be stored in the raw file, and a decent tool should be able to display it if you can't get the camera to do so. But usually you can pick it by looking at the shot, as Stan says. With a crop camera your 200mm gives you the same shake as a 320mm lens on full frame, but you're shooting at a very high pixel density so your CoC limit is quite small - if you're cropping images or viewing at pixel-for-pixel magnification you'll see a lot of aparent softness (http://www.rags-int-inc.com/PhotoTechStuff/DoF/)" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:05:33.393" UserId="3617" />
  <row Id="11630" PostId="8359" Score="1" Text="Thanks. Wish it had support for it though." CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:14:31.887" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="11631" PostId="8388" Text="May be I don't understand it clearly. With &quot;Ambient&quot; light, with settings of ISO 800 and Max Aperture of 3.5 and Min Shutter speed of 1/60, the meter says, I'm still under exposed by say one stop. I typically reduce shutter speed further to 1/30 leading blurry image. Here camera's meter gives me the detail based on &quot;Ambient&quot; light. How can I setup apporpriate better ISO and faster shutterspeed (with the knowledge that I'll use Flash)?" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:26:40.747" UserId="3761" />
  <row Id="11632" PostId="8390" Text="Thanks for the article in Sublime Light. Will try out something today and will post the results.!" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:32:00.167" UserId="3761" />
  <row Id="11633" PostId="8387" Text="Flash &quot;guide numbers&quot; are a key concept." CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:33:03.057" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11634" PostId="8393" Text="Thanks for your info. Will try the &quot;extremes&quot; and post the outcome. I appreciate your time for response" CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:33:43.410" UserId="3761" />
  <row Id="11635" PostId="8388" Text="@Murthy: I considerably expanded my answer, I hope it helps explain things a bit better." CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:36:43.180" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11636" PostId="8311" Text="It doesn't, at least in terms of the amount of diffraction for a given aperture. What *does* change is the way you achieve depth of field in the image. By using tilt, you change the plane of focus, so in a lot of cases you can get more of the scene in focus with a wider aperture -- you can put both the foreground grass/rocks and the mid-point of distant trees/mountains on or near the plane of sharp focus, so the aperture setting has less to make up for. Tilt is of no real use, though, if you want both foreground and background trees in focus; for that you need a small aperture." CreationDate="2011-02-07T23:44:58.290" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11637" PostId="8350" Text="@Stan, excellent answer, thank you! Yes, it is cold, but I don't drink coffee!  6:00am might be part of it though.  I find that spins and jumps aren't that interesting to photograph (kind of ugly positions when you freeze them), but rather the choreographed poses, and jump landings, are the beautiful parts." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:30:22.557" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11638" PostId="8393" Text="Do that, it is the best way to learn. Do remember that the first-mentioned technique above, taken to its extreme conclusion presupposes an infinitly powerful flash, which is rarely on hand unless you have a tactical nuclear warhead in your backpack:) But in enclosed spaces it works well enough." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:32:20.100" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11639" PostId="8350" Text="@moz, can Lightroom show me the focus point?  What is CoC?  I do crop many images (hard to frame moving targets properly), so that could be part of it." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:34:54.080" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11640" PostId="8388" Score="1" Text="If you are one stop under at f3.5@1/60, this simply means that the flash will have to provide the missing stop of light. Dragging the shutter to 1/30 gives more ambient and less flash, but at the expense of probable motion blur. Flash, however, will tend to freeze motion, especially if the flash provides more light than the ambient does. This can also be used to achieve a certain look to your picture... it is all a juggling act really. Having the meter read you an underexposure on ambient is perfectly normal... if ambient was on meter you wouldn't need the flash in the first place!" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:36:37.613" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11641" PostId="8377" Text="+1 - I hemmed and hawed about the AB800 versus the AB1600, but went AB800. So far, working for me, but it does make you wonder if it's just better to go to top strength and dial back as needed. Well, I can always get those if I really need." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:37:03.703" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11642" PostId="8354" Text="@jrista, thanks!  Yes, I use AF-C.  The D90 is my first DSLR, and I needed the budget room for the 70-200 F2.8.  I love the camera, but wish it had more AF points.  I purposely waited for the D7000 to come out so I could get the D90 cheaper, though I was mighty tempted to just get the D7000 (a $600 premium over the D90).  My next camera will have a better AF system for sure." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:38:35.513" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11643" PostId="8354" Text="Also, it occurs to me that I might not be using the tracking mode as well as I could (sometimes forget to hold halfway and track).  I'll try to pay more attention to that and see if things improve." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:40:01.470" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11644" PostId="8374" Text="It's hard when the lighting isn't great in the arena.  When I am shooting Synchro (multiple skaters), I try to get the aperature to F4 for wider DOF, but the exposure suffers if I go too far without reducing shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:41:45.633" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11645" PostId="8317" Text="Would you be willing to take deliberate mathematical simplification into account? As I said, the path probabilty of a photon relative to its wavelength determines absolute diffraction. The diffraction zone (for want of a better term; meaning the area where, statistically, there is a high probability of diffraction) has a physical width determined by the wavelength of light (invariant) and a length determined by the perimeter/circumference of the aperure (varies according to the physical aperture).(Continued - 1)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:42:28.170" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11646" PostId="8317" Text="(Continuation - 1) The total area of transmission is determined by the physical area of the aperture. The ratio of the diffraction zone to the total area of transmission is lower at longer focal lengths. (Continued - 2)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:42:44.893" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11647" PostId="8387" Text="Actually, I've never given the guide numbers anything more than a passing thought myself. Buy the biggest flash you can be bothered to schlep around; don't be foolish enough to believe that it can light a gymasium by itself, and let the automatics handle the rest. Works for me anyway..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:43:07.807" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11648" PostId="8317" Text="(Continuation - 2) That is, of course, given a simple lens design. It really depends on where the choke point is in the actual optical path, since that choice changes the physical aperture size. The &quot;f-stop&quot; you select on a lens is, more often than not, a &quot;t-stop&quot; set by changing the iris at some point in the optical path other than the front element.(Continued - 3)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:44:23.350" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11649" PostId="8317" Text="(Continuation - 3)Moving the choke point doesn't affect DoF as it relates to non-diffractive circles of confusion (it narrows the cone of convergence the same way) but choking at a narrower point does increase the probability of diffraction since the physical aperture is smaller and the wavelength isn't scaled down. Any given photon, then, is more likely to pass through an area where it is more likely to be redirected. (Continued - 4)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:45:30.883" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11650" PostId="8317" Score="1" Text="(Continuation - 4) In general, though, prime lenses of longer focal lengths will have larger physical apertures at any given f-stop than lenses of shorter focal lengths. **That's** why you can get away with f/64 at 300mm on a view camera (everything is sharp and contrasty) while the same scene shot at f/32 at 50mm looks like hell on a 35mm-format camera (everything's soft and washed out) even when both are enlarged to the same degree -- the physical aperture is at least three times as large, making it three times less probable that a given photon will be redirected." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:48:16.090" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11651" PostId="8354" Text="Yeah, definitely practice the half-press technique. When I am shooting wildlife, I almost always have the shutter half down regardless, since it is also required to activate IS. I have a couple friends who are button mashers, and they just press the button fully each time, never giving the camera time to find and lock focus, or the lens time to activate IS. Neither of those two things are guaranteed to occur perfectly if you just mash the button, although the chances they will improve significantly with bodies like the 1D IV or D3X." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:50:58.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11652" PostId="8394" Text="Thanks, drafting film sounds like a very good idea – and now I know what it is called! I had a vague recollection of seeing drafting film used in technical drawing more than 20 years ago, and I thought it might be a nice diffuser, but I had no idea what it is called (or what it is made of), which made googling or shopping a bit difficult... :)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:53:32.190" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11653" PostId="8389" Score="1" Text="There is a big difference internally in a JPG compared to a RAW file that seriously limits the range of changes you can do to the JPG image. Changing a JPG to RAW will not help much as the damage was done when saved as JPG, so avoid going to extremes." CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:56:58.703" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11654" PostId="8348" Text="@AJ, posted! Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-08T00:57:37.930" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11655" PostId="8377" Text="@John: I think I'm going to buy a single AB1600 just for the pure output. My understanding is that the AB1600 is the only AB that can outlight the sun outdoors." CreationDate="2011-02-08T01:07:08.797" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="11656" PostId="8377" Text="@Alan - I haven't had to do that yet, but worth remembering. I'm super happy with the Alien Bees lineup, so they will get more business from me one way or another." CreationDate="2011-02-08T01:12:13.767" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11657" PostId="8339" Text="@jrista: Yes, I'm referring to &quot;diffraction limit&quot;, and I still find myself not seeing the answer.  It's like you've explained that we see red when light gets to us that's between about 630 and 740nm in wavelength, and that this can be caused by various pigments, or refraction of white light, and that it tends to bring about a strong emotional reaction in people, etc. etc., but you haven't said &quot;red is a color&quot;.  :)  What *is* the &quot;diffraction limit&quot;?  Not how is it determined, or what its details are, but at a basic level, what does the term mean?  If you've answered that, I missed it, twice." CreationDate="2011-02-08T02:09:29.047" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11658" PostId="8139" Score="1" Text="The only difference between -summarize and -average is a divide-by-N. Increasing ISO in camera for proper exposure of each individual frame and using -average will likely result in less noise than underexposing and using -summarize." CreationDate="2011-02-08T02:23:40.267" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11659" PostId="8119" Text="@tomm89 Your stars won't be totally gone with stack mode mean, they'll just be darker than in the original images. If you've increased the ISO on your shorter exposures, though, it should be identical to a longer exposure." CreationDate="2011-02-08T02:30:28.967" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11660" PostId="8350" Score="2" Text="&quot;CoC&quot; is &quot;circle of confusion&quot;, the size of the spot that a point in the image forms on the sensor. As long as the CoC is as small as or smaller than a sensor element (but still large enough to register), that point will appear to be in absolute focus. Once it strays onto neighboring sensels, the image of that point appears to soften. Your depth of field (or the CoC limit) is determined by the amount of softening that's acceptable to you at the final image size. An unacceptably soft image is usually one in which nothing *of interest* is as sharp as it can be." CreationDate="2011-02-08T02:47:24.710" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11661" PostId="7692" Text="I got the camera but still never made a choice on the lens. I plan to take picture from my laptop tethered. It seems I can operate the autofocus from the laptop, but with the USM, would that alle me to manually focus? Or do I not even need USM; can I manually focus tether without USM?" CreationDate="2011-02-08T02:58:25.293" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11662" PostId="7692" Text="Also, I wonder if there is any zoom lens that can offer distortion free edges? I have about 1000 pieces to photograph, and if I could zoom in as well from the laptop I wouldn't have to tough or move the camer at all for at least much of the work. I'm only concerened then with just centering the artwork on my stand. (I may create a new question for this). " CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:00:53.183" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11663" PostId="8339" Text="@lindes: I guess your right. I &quot;see&quot; the answer in my answer, but that might just be because I understand the concept. I've updated my answer to explicitly state what the diffraction limit is, in the context of digital photography. Let me know if it is good enough." CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:04:12.507" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11664" PostId="8352" Score="1" Text="The Canon case looks like something you remove altogether to take a picture (although it would stay on the camera strap). There appears to be a big velcro flap on the right-hand side of the back and a hinge on the left (looking from the camera back), so you'd open the back of the case and withdraw the camera to shoot. It still leaves you with a single strap to manage, but it sounds like it would be more awkward than the ever-ready we remember from the Olde Days. I'd try to see one in person before buying." CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:12:04.797" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11665" PostId="8399" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6716/canon-eos-macro http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/380/what-is-the-difference-between-ef-and-ef-s-lenses As far as the other questions, you might want to open up separate questions, it'd make it a bit easier to answer them." CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:46:43.183" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11666" PostId="8400" Text="possible duplicate of [Free RAW editors/converters on Windows](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1717/free-raw-editors-converters-on-windows)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:52:25.607" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11667" PostId="8400" Score="2" Text="Explaining why you don't like Irfanview would help us in suggesting other viewers." CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:56:10.497" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="11668" PostId="8119" Text="@Evan Krall: That is a great idea, because the noise produced in a shorter exposure, will be averaged in the stack. Or I think so..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T03:56:18.230" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="11669" PostId="8399" Text="Also see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/496/what-do-all-those-cryptic-number-and-letter-codes-in-a-lens-name-mean/508#508 , it might answer the other questions you have." CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:19:01.117" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11670" PostId="8403" Text="The parts you have just answered are greatly appreciated. sorry for the long question! I'm trying to figure out a professional set up with no digital SLR experience and a tight budget. There is no one-way of doing this, and yet it seems I won't really begin learning until I actually set up the studio and get to work! Making these decisions is confusing and I'm trying to glean what I can and hope that I don't make a costly mistake. But typical of me that I could read so much and look at so many products but still not understand what USM was. I hope I've got it now! Thanks" CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:24:15.417" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11671" PostId="8387" Text="You may also want to take a look at this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLlDG0PSNBM" CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:24:29.803" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11672" PostId="8352" Text="thanks Stan. Good idea. That is how I imagined it too. I just got the camera today and wow does it have a different feel compared to my Minolta from decades ago! At first it felt kind of plastic and cheap, but it has grown on me in the first hours and I suspect the initial reaction won't be lasting. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:31:44.350" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11674" PostId="8312" Text="@thomasrutter, Photoshop picks the subsampling based on the quality setting you choose. It's not an independent option." CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:39:14.613" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="11675" PostId="8001" Text="Thanks Pear and thanks again Stan. Fortunately I do have probably 10' if needed between camera and artwork, and maximum piece is only 30x40. Could I then use a 100mm macro lens and is there any advantage? " CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:41:56.760" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11676" PostId="8357" Text="Chroma-subsampling doesn't just result in &quot;loss of resolution&quot;. It introduces very noticeable artifacts especially in the red channel." CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:43:48.473" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="11677" PostId="8244" Text="True enough, but I felt it important there be answer imploring him to simply not remove files.  I probably should have mentioned the existence of really cheap hard drives now with almost 4x the space of what he is currently using..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:44:01.517" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="11678" PostId="8404" Text="Where did you photograph this? I see you're from Australia, did you visit Arizona, or do they have Saguaro cactus in more of the world than I thought?" CreationDate="2011-02-08T05:04:49.580" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11679" PostId="8357" Text="@Mark Ransom those artifacts are nothing more than a result of halving the resolution in the color channels, and of the interpolation necessary to account for that after decompression.  It shouldn't ever produce any &quot;noticeable artifacts&quot; other than that caused by blurring over of resolution, although there may exist some decoders which screw up this interpolation or do very simple nearest-neighbour interpolation, resulting in blockiness that is quite noticeable for red details on black (or magenta on blue, etc).  This was a common problem on some early DVD players for example." CreationDate="2011-02-08T05:20:38.473" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11680" PostId="8400" Score="1" Text="what operating system are you on?" CreationDate="2011-02-08T05:25:07.470" UserId="3744" />
  <row Id="11681" PostId="8404" Score="1" Text="@Pearsonartphoto haha, no I didn't go there. I grabbed a random image but realised it's probably best not to use it. I've updated with some of my own examples (though not as good a scene as what I did first)." CreationDate="2011-02-08T05:51:28.540" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11682" PostId="8339" Text="@jrista: Thank you!  Yes, the added paragraph does the trick.  It *might* make sense to add a little more about the practical implications of hitting the diffraction limit... but I think you address that elsewhere, so it's probably all good.  :)  Anyway, I definitely am seeing the term defined now, so now you get a +1 (which I was fully expecting you would).  ;)  Also, thanks for the extra images -- that helps a great deal!" CreationDate="2011-02-08T06:05:06.907" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11683" PostId="8400" Text="@greg: I'm using Windows Vista atm, but might switch to Windows 7 later this month." CreationDate="2011-02-08T07:12:22.607" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11684" PostId="8337" Text="I think I have an answer to your question but I wanted to clarify a bit first... Are you asking about how to go about getting accepted into *photographic exhibitions* (generally multi-artist shows of some variety, often with awards, but not always), or are you asking about how to get your work *exhibited*? Based on your second question it could go either way as to which of the two you're asking about..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T07:24:24.530" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11685" PostId="8377" Text="&quot;if it's just better to go to top strength and dial back as needed&quot;. It depends on your needs. If you are shooting a moving object and reduce power on heads like the White Lightning and Alien Bee, your lights will put out less light but will also have a longer duration, which can cause motion blur. It's better to figure out what duration you need, then find the lights that deliver it. I have six WL1600 heads, which have a 1/4 power switch that cuts the power without making the duration go nuts. Six heads at 1/4 power are bright, and recycle very fast (1/4 second) w/ 1/1600 sec. duration." CreationDate="2011-02-08T07:30:06.193" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11686" PostId="8354" Score="2" Text="A lot of pro sports and news photographers adjust their settings to split the focus and shutter release to separate buttons. All our SLR cameras are that way, and, after the initial getting-used-to-it period, it's SO much more useful than having both the shutter and focus activation on the same button. [Sports Illustrated](http://www.siphoto.com/) has a site for their photographers with their recommended settings for a number of cameras, which include splitting focus activation and shutter release." CreationDate="2011-02-08T07:38:29.807" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11687" PostId="8384" Score="1" Text="To all, in case you're not aware, there is an awesome tool for following elections [here](http://se.awio.com/election.html)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T08:04:26.947" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="11688" PostId="8407" Score="2" Text="Lawrence of Arabia did day-for-night quite extensively. The effect was so fake it actually distracted me while watching the movie. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T08:23:21.907" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="11689" PostId="8399" Text="FYI there is no such beast as a Canon 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro USM. Only a non-USM one." CreationDate="2011-02-08T08:47:01.307" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11690" PostId="8403" Score="2" Text="No Canon lens has body driven AF! All of them have built-in focusing motors, USM simply describes the technology used in the motor. The alternatives are arc-form drives (common in the cheaper lenses) and micro USM (rarely seen, though the 50 f/1.4 has one)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T08:49:07.140" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11691" PostId="7692" Text="Live view with an external monitor may be a good way to ensure good focus. My camera is too old for this so do not have personal experience with it but it sounds good at least. No, there is no zoom that will do the job as well as a macro. Zooms are very, very complex optical constructions with a lot of design tradeoffs." CreationDate="2011-02-08T08:53:26.573" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11692" PostId="8405" Score="2" Text="The Canon codec is at: http://software.canon-europe.com/software/0039964.asp?model= (currently v1.8). There is still no x64 support from Canon, but [Ardfry](http://www.ardfry.com/cr2-codec/) offer a dual x86/x64 codec" CreationDate="2011-02-08T09:08:20.300" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11693" PostId="8348" Text="cool.  thanks, @seanmc" CreationDate="2011-02-08T09:34:23.213" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11694" PostId="8339" Score="1" Text="This, especially the GIF animation, perfectly answers the question and points out why you have to care about it." CreationDate="2011-02-08T09:47:13.440" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="11695" PostId="8357" Score="2" Text="I don't think I've ever seen a better, easier to understand explanation of jpeg - or really lossy - image compression. definite +1" CreationDate="2011-02-08T11:16:09.800" UserId="3768" />
  <row Id="11696" PostId="8403" Text="@Staale: Thanks, I learned something there, so answer adjusted." CreationDate="2011-02-08T11:39:42.947" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11697" PostId="7914" Score="1" Text="For reviewing, what matters is not only the resolution of the screen but also the resolution of the image that you are reviewing. Even if you are shooting RAW only, the camera will automatically embed inside the RAW file a low-resolution JPEG file that you can review in-camera. In the case of 500D, the &quot;low-resolution JPEG&quot; is actually a *full-resolution* JPEG file (which takes approx. 3 megabytes). Hence when you are reviewing and zooming in-camera, you have access to a full-resolution &quot;thumbnail&quot;, which is not necessarily the case with other cameras (unless you shoot JPEG or RAW+JPEG)." CreationDate="2011-02-08T13:03:05.960" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="11698" PostId="8337" Score="1" Text="@JayLancePhotography: Quite frankly, I'll take either. I'd just like to find a way to actually sell some of my prints at an exhibition of some sort. Even if it's simply a display at a local store, it's better than nothing." CreationDate="2011-02-08T13:24:39.103" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11699" PostId="8400" Score="1" Text="@Pearsonartphoto for some people viewing images can be quite a different process to viewing/editing them.  I use different software for each." CreationDate="2011-02-08T13:29:37.273" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11700" PostId="8407" Text="+1 i was going to mention this. great movie, though!" CreationDate="2011-02-08T14:45:39.643" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11701" PostId="8389" Text="@Greg, I agree this is not a replacement for shooting raw in the first place but it's a useful way to edit pictures from devices that don't support raw, such as camera phones." CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:11:41.237" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11702" PostId="8401" Text="If 'twere me, I might be tempted to fire the overhead key light (the sun) through a glass pane and use a translucent cookie (cukaloris) to simulate passing clouds. It depends how real you want to get -- fairytale cookies coming to life, or something more like an Aardman production (eg: Wallace and Gromit)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:21:15.507" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11703" PostId="8415" Text="possible duplicate of [What remote flash triggers can you recommend, on a budget?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6573/what-remote-flash-triggers-can-you-recommend-on-a-budget)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:43:22.317" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11704" PostId="8273" Text="I guess you never have the perfect bag, I ended up having a few diferent bags for diferent occasions." CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:46:04.280" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="11705" PostId="8183" Text="@mattdm: Yes, exactly.  The more I think about it, what's *technically* optimal isn't *aesthetically* optimal in general.  A rectangular cropped image is more pleasing to the eye (at least to my eye).  Sure, a square crop works for some images, but I suspect people will find cropping closer to the golden ratio more pleasing in general.  The most common case (rectangular cropping) is how the sensor should be designed for optimal use.  Like you said, get it right in camera!  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:10:02.047" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11706" PostId="8420" Text="&quot;it's mostly white&quot; is really the kicker.  Our eyes perceive so many colors as white especially when looking at them like this.  If you judge something as white, and then mix it with another shade of white from the ambient, you can end up with some &quot;interesting&quot; and difficult to get rid of shots.  If you're just using flash as your light source, then its just a color temp change." CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:11:46.033" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11707" PostId="6206" Text="DNG is good enough that it's the one and only &quot;RAW&quot; format for Leica's $30K S2 medium format (and definitely professional grade) SLR (as well as the digital Ms, which I'll concede can be seen as shiny toys for big boys). The problems with DNG are in individual implementations, not in the format itself." CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:19:49.827" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11708" PostId="8420" Text="Yeah, but you could always use a gray card to correct for any non-whiteness that might appear, so..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:31:39.707" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11709" PostId="6785" Text="Great addendum Jedrek." CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:44:14.877" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11710" PostId="8417" Text="When you imported them did you leave them where they were, or move them to be controlled by Lightroom?" CreationDate="2011-02-08T16:54:00.070" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="11711" PostId="6620" Score="1" Text="ISO ratings can be stated either on a linear scale (the old ASA rating style) or on the logarithmic scale (DIN). Until relatively recently, you couldn't use the ISO name alongside the stated rating if you didn't state the values on both scales, even if the contrast curves and development were exactly in accordance with the ISO spec. At some point, somebody (or a committee of somebodies) finally decided that juggling two interchangeable ratings wasn't doing anything for anybody (except for the Deutsches Institut für Normung), required too many LCD characters to display, etc. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T17:02:03.237" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11712" PostId="8299" Text="@W5VO - &quot;older&quot; in this context means stuff from the '60s. Sophisticated multicoating has been a standard feature of lenses claiming anything like quality for a very long time. And flare was every bit as big a problem with film as it is with digital. All Sony and Minolta AF lenses are multicoated, as are all of the Sigma and Tamron lenses for the Sony/Minolta AF mount. Really cheap off-brand lenses may not be, not because they are old, but because they're cheap." CreationDate="2011-02-08T17:15:31.883" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11713" PostId="8299" Text="You can't see whether or not all lens elements are coated, but you can tell whether the front and back elements are coated on the outside at least. Look for a sort of rainbow in light reflected from the elements --  if you don't see a sort of rainbow sheen on the lens (front and back) of a used major-brand lens, it's because somebody &quot;cleaned&quot; off the coating. If you don't see it on an off-brand lens, new or used, it's probably because it isn't multicoated (or coated at all)." CreationDate="2011-02-08T17:18:42.020" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11714" PostId="5159" Score="1" Text="If you *are* shooting panoramas all day, every day, then it would help if your &quot;cheater&quot; rotated the camera around the node point of the lens rather than a tripod socket on the body. That way there is only radial displacement to deal with instead of a combination of radial and lateral displacement -- it's a lot easier and less lossy to stitch. (You could do seamless end-to-end splices with film as long as your lens was normal or longer -- or you were willing to crop horizontally -- something that wouldn't work well with a rotation point on the body.)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T17:29:07.037" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11715" PostId="8424" Text="See also a bunch of questions here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/search?q=equipment-recommendation+nikon+lens (Yours is specific enough that I'm not sure there's an exact duplicate, but there's a lot of helpful answers in there already, so it's worth looking through.)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T17:59:02.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11716" PostId="8383" Score="2" Text="Change that from Photo.SE or I can't vote for you. :) http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/576/" CreationDate="2011-02-08T18:03:19.433" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11717" PostId="8067" Score="1" Text="I agree with the off-topic assessment. Sure, it's photo-related, but approach to handling these XML files is no different than from any other XML file (which is kind of the point.)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T18:35:35.177" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11718" PostId="8426" Score="2" Text="I wonder if the original asker isn't currently using Alkalines. This answer certainly has useful information, but it might be useful just to say: don't use Alkalines, use Nickel-metal Hydride (&quot;NiMH&quot;) rechargeables. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:00:24.720" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11719" PostId="6206" Text="@stan - This only means that Leica choose to use the format in a way that fits with the interpretation process implied by DNG. It is highly possible, and it has happened in the past with Fuji (DNG has extra fields to trigger a different process for Fuji SuperCCDs), that a camera produces an output which cannot be correctly interpreted by the implied DNG process. The way manufacturers often go around this is to convert their internal RAW representation to a representation which fits the way DNGs are meant to be interpreted." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:07:52.817" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11720" PostId="509" Score="1" Text="Thank you, @erica-marshall, for making this point. I was looking for an answer to upvote that made it, since there are so many answers already. I think @Karel is making it implicitly by being specific about the order, and you've made it especially clear. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:08:32.623" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11721" PostId="8425" Text="AA batteries are absolutely the best source of power. More cameras should use them. They are always cheap and incredibly easy to find, particularly while traveling to remote areas. You can also easily charge them using solar power. Learn their advantages and you will never want proprietary batteries again!" CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:12:40.783" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11722" PostId="6206" Text="There is zero data missing from a Leica DNG as compared to anyone else's RAW (and they use the full 16 bits of color depth per channel, not 12 or 14). DNG is not a limited format in any way (well, except for that whole 16-bit color depth thing -- it'll need a revision if anyone decides to go 24 bits per channel) -- its broken and short-circuited implementations that show problems." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:15:42.967" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11723" PostId="7" Score="2" Text="+1/-1: +1 for describing the various ways to allow you the widest aperture; -1 for not mentioning the camera:subject:background ratios (the single thing you change for the most difference, ultimately), or focal length (which really only matters if you're willing to change your framing, because the distance factor matters more, but sometimes that's ok, so it's worth noting). So, not voting. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:17:16.857" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11725" PostId="6206" Text="@stan - You oversimplify. A long blog post may be needed ;) Example: A perfect sensor has every photosite arranged in a perfect grid and all have exactly the same sensitivity. This is perfect for the way DNGs are specified. After testing the factory realizes that there are a few photosites that are less sensitive to light. Instead of replacing the sensor, they adjust the firmware in-camera to compensate by simply boosting the read-out levels of those when outputting DNGs. If they did not do that, the DNGs would look strange. So you do not have the exact RAW data anymore." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:29:58.523" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11726" PostId="6206" Text="There's room for that in DNG too, along with noise subtraction image data, CB adjustments not made to the raw sensor data and everything else that goes into anyone's RAW image format. Don't let broken or short-circuited implementations cloud your judgement -- the full DNG spec is a complete package." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:32:52.873" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11727" PostId="8432" Score="1" Text="The other downside is that ~ $150 buys you a lot of AA batteries..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:41:55.760" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11728" PostId="8433" Score="1" Text="What style of bag are you looking for?  Shoulder bag?  Backpack?  Belt system?  Other?" CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:42:24.473" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="11729" PostId="6206" Text="I am familiar with the spec, there is room for a lot of things to be added but reading files with private data correctly is all but impossible except by dedicated software that knows how to interpret it. That is why it is more often done to *fudge* the pixel data rather than use those." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:45:25.513" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11731" PostId="6206" Text="Then there is the issue of sensor construction. Some sensors are designed quite differently and will produce data that cannot be interpreted properly by the same process as other DNGs. That is why the fields are there for SuperCCDs which use octagonal sensors which are not lined up in a grid. Then you have the SR variety which used two type of photosites or gets two samples per photosites (depending on the generation). EXR sensors can also read half their pixels partway through an exposure. If you put that data in a DNG without compensating only proprietary software will read it!" CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:48:59.193" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11732" PostId="8437" Text="Yes they DO use a different AF systems than DSLRs, it is called contrast-detect (actually DSLRs use it in Live-View). Normally DSLRs use Phase-Detection which is much faster. Only 4 non-DSLRs exist which use Phase-Detection, the Fuji F300 EXR (travel zoom with 15X and manual controls - see http://www.neocamera.com/review.php?id=75) &amp; Z800 EXR (ultra-compact, no controls) and the Sony Alpha SLT-A55 (http://www.neocamera.com/review.php?id=148) &amp; SLT-A33 (both ILCs with an EVF)." CreationDate="2011-02-08T19:56:05.070" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11733" PostId="8433" Text="thanks. i updated my question" CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:01:37.543" UserId="3774" />
  <row Id="11735" PostId="8433" Text="I think you could do with expanding on this a little.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;What other gear do you want to carry? &#xD;&#xA;What do you shoot mostly?&#xD;&#xA;What kind of solution are you looking for? (shoulder, backpack, solid case, carry on compatible etc)?&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:32:59.447" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="11736" PostId="2830" Score="1" Text="Great answer. Just want to add that the police force in some countries have a very rough idea of justice. So bear this in mind. My personal experience of this was in Shanghai, China, 1992. I was arrested and imprisoned for a day because I wrote down the badge numbers of the two policemen who were interviewing me. Very importantly, make sure that someone knows your movements in as much detail as possible and knows when you should be back, otherwise you might disappear for longer than you intended." CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:34:24.503" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11737" PostId="8439" Score="8" Text="If it makes you feel better, there's not strong evidence of lead as a carcinogen, so you're probably clear for cancer. It's just the neurotoxicity to worry about. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:39:44.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11738" PostId="6816" Text="@BigEndian: Thanks. :) " CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:40:02.917" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11739" PostId="8439" Score="1" Text="In seriousness, if you're concerned, doesn't hurt anything but the pocketbook to check. And if you've got kids who might handle the thing or, in fact, eat it, it might be worth doing. http://leadcheck.com/products/leadcheck-products/leadcheck-swabs " CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:41:29.780" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11740" PostId="8067" Text="Off-topic but still interesting to photographer-programmers. I have done something similar. Inspect the XML to determine the structure. Write a PHP program to parse the XML data and write it into a MySQL database so that you can quickly retrieve it when displaying the photos. The XML tools in PHP are easy to use." CreationDate="2011-02-08T20:49:21.607" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11741" PostId="8439" Score="5" Text="It really boils down to &quot;don't eat the solder&quot;, and you'd have to suck all of the solder out of a case of the things as an adult before you run into problems. Show a bit of common sense, don't let the baby play with it, and stop worrying. (First they took away my lawn darts, then my chemistry set, then my Radio Shack electronics experiments kit... I really don't need to be protected from *everything*!)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:07:11.543" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11742" PostId="8439" Score="3" Text="If you believe the California warnings, Disneyland causes cancer: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ahockley/3327806270/" CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:12:12.647" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="11743" PostId="8409" Text="Thanks again Stan. I'll send an email about the copy stand instructions..." CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:20:11.813" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11744" PostId="8410" Text="Yeah that makes sense as that's what I've done with point and shoot digital cameras for years. Funny, experimenting with the stock lens zoomed out and it bulged the subject big time, but zoomed in, and then stepped back further for the same shot, it seemed distortion free. I guess it's obvious why that is and I'm guessing with the zoom I don't get quite as high a resolution? I'm still trying to wrap my head around it. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:23:50.843" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="11745" PostId="8429" Text="@Stan Are you suggesting that even hardware calibration (a la Spyder) isn't really necessary? Where did you find the info on the monitors? " CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:48:49.557" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="11746" PostId="8441" Text="Thank you very much! These are very helpful tips. Any chance you have some specific light source recommendations? Could I do this with the regular lighting I have in my home, or would it be better to buy some independent camera lights? Could I build my own lights?" CreationDate="2011-02-08T21:59:41.737" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11747" PostId="8441" Score="1" Text="&quot;Regular&quot; lighting is probably not the answer. Even if it's coming from the right direction(s) with the right balance, you'll be so used to it that it'll be hard to force yourself to see what's there. There's no need to buy anything &quot;photographic&quot;, though; building something that will do the trick is easy and (relatively) cheap. If ~$25 plus the cost of four 40W CF bulbs for 160W in a 40&quot;-square softbox doesn't sound too extravagant (or too bubblegum-and-paperclips) I'll post a design I've used as a (non) answer here." CreationDate="2011-02-08T22:55:46.460" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11748" PostId="8429" Text="Hardware calibration is a nicety -- it's better to have it than not, but eyeballing it really is good enough most of the time. It all depends where you put your personal &quot;good enough&quot; cutoff line if you're doing personal work. The Spyder, f'rinstance, will balance the monitor in relation to the room lighting, which makes it easier to go from paper to screen and back. What's really important is your personal perception -- when you see the same thing looking at the screen as looking at the print, it doesn't matter that your eyes had to adjust a few Kelvins going from one to the other." CreationDate="2011-02-08T23:03:27.543" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11749" PostId="8429" Text="As for the monitor info -- well, I've worked in IBM shops, and I know the difference between their imaging monitors and the ones they give to the drones. If it's big and rotates landscape-to-portrait, it'll have great color. A lot of the desktop monitors, though, are only 16-bit (64K colors). It's night and day. As for your Samsung, the first helpful link was on page six of my best googling effort IIRC, and it took three links to put the needed info together." CreationDate="2011-02-08T23:10:11.253" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11750" PostId="8439" Score="1" Text="Just be careful not to use it in California, and you will be OK. " CreationDate="2011-02-08T23:26:51.757" UserId="2811" />
  <row Id="11751" PostId="8407" Text="@thomasrutter, I suppose you mean dusk rather than dust ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-08T23:28:06.930" UserId="2736" />
  <row Id="11752" PostId="8407" Text="@asoundmove whoops my brain must have some internal dust" CreationDate="2011-02-08T23:41:56.890" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11753" PostId="604" Text="Define 'boring'.   Actually, I _like_ boring - i like knowing I'm making money that my competition is passing up.  (disclaimer: I'm thinking of other things, not photography.)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T00:05:11.330" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11754" PostId="2795" Text="Downvote? :( I thought the question was good, even if it was naive. :/" CreationDate="2011-02-09T00:07:49.757" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="11755" PostId="8439" Text="@everyone - i sounded more paranoid than what i really am...however, the manual says: (blabla) lead in the cord, (blabla) wash hands after use. Hence my concern, i wasn't planning on eating it, but i'm sure as hell not going to hold it in my mouth for a second while tweaking something. bah." CreationDate="2011-02-09T00:40:46.813" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11756" PostId="7522" Text="I don't find it inspiring because of the mortals-need-not-apply nature of the setups: massive lighting rigs, models, props, sets, bla bla bla. It's more oppressive feeling than inspiring to me. Not that I don't like the images, it's just that it's the kind of thing that would inspire a Hollywood director, not your lowly still photographer. It's hard to imagine the typical photographer taking inspiration from such a massive production, but who knows?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:15:39.097" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="11757" PostId="8393" Text="Hi Staale S... I tried both extremes and it pretty much cleared my doubts about whether to worry / not to worry about meter's indicator of correct exposure. More to learn, thanks again !" CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:25:47.623" UserId="3761" />
  <row Id="11758" PostId="8387" Text="Thanks for the youtube link." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:26:09.653" UserId="3761" />
  <row Id="11759" PostId="8448" Text="Tractors and Farm Equipment?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:28:40.320" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11760" PostId="8388" Text="Got the point !" CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:29:47.310" UserId="3761" />
  <row Id="11761" PostId="7522" Text="His indoor photographs are admittedly very aggressive in 'asset use' but a take-home for us mortals that he takes to an extreme is: everything in the scene matters.  The existence and placement of every chair, lamp and mirror matters.  Leaving a door, window or drawer open or closed matters because we can (or can't) see what is beyond it, same with mirrors (they're just another window).  The obsessive attention to detail in each photo can inspire anybody to pay more attention to what is in their frame and take ownership of what its doing to the composition." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:36:17.903" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11762" PostId="425" Score="1" Text="Ken is a straight up, tell-it-like-he-sees-it person and I like that attitude.  If he's reviewing a $1000 lens but he reckons it's not worth it over another $150 one instead, he'll say so.  It doesn't matter if he's right or not (you don't have to agree with his sometimes-unusual statements) but you can appreciate his perspective." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:42:29.920" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11763" PostId="8449" Score="2" Text="I'd like to suggest an edit to your question. Rather than straight-out asking &quot;what's better&quot;, you may want to reword it to ask &quot;what's faster, radio or optical, and is the difference significant?&quot; &quot;Better&quot; is such a wide term that it's really impossible to answer. However, if you're really mostly concerned with delay, you can reword your question to focus on that and get a better set of responses." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:43:25.443" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11764" PostId="880" Text="Very good blog, one of the best I've ever read.  I highly recommend everyone goes through his entire blog archive as there is a lot to be learned.  Unfortunately he doesn't update his blog too often." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:44:33.473" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11765" PostId="8449" Text="Thanks, I reworded it." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:45:39.837" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="11766" PostId="8451" Text="You might be interested in the discussion at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6047/1356 (rules of thumb for calculating DoF)." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:46:30.740" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11767" PostId="8445" Score="1" Text="That's an intuitive answer, but it will actually cause nothing but problems. Remember that 1 second of film footage will take 24 separate photographs, each with a bit of movement to the characters... It can take literally hours to put together 1 second of footage and even on a cloudy/overcast day the light will change drastically over that time period. Unless a person doesn't really care what it will look like, the only way to accomplish even a small stop-motion animation is with complete control over the lighting sources..." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:48:54.917" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11769" PostId="8452" Text="I only have manual flashes, and I didn't say that the line of sight was not an issue, only that in this particular case, to make all variables even, we'll assume line of sight so that the flashes can trigger off an optical trigger." CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:59:58.280" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="11770" PostId="8425" Text="The best option would be a camera that can take several AAs _or_ a lithium ion pack. Li-ion is best for general use, as it doesn't suffer the memory effects that NiMH and NiCd have, have better energy density, etc." CreationDate="2011-02-09T03:07:07.927" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11772" PostId="8451" Text="In your example, did you mean that both pictures were taken at the same camera-subject distance?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T03:15:45.253" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="11773" PostId="8451" Text="@Evan Yes, same distance to subject." CreationDate="2011-02-09T03:18:46.143" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="11775" PostId="7559" Text="@Jay, I think your answer is great, I just wanted to widen this a bit with my bounty and get some other ideas. " CreationDate="2011-02-09T03:52:49.687" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="11778" PostId="8405" Text="We don't have credit cards which supports online purchase here. No Paypal. So buying is out of the question :( But i'll definitely take a look if they provide trial." CreationDate="2011-02-09T04:22:11.067" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11779" PostId="8412" Text="For some reason, Picasa displays me half of the RAW image or sometimes full image in a weird blue tone. I've got sick of it. Though its a very good viewer for every image files other than RAW." CreationDate="2011-02-09T04:23:35.213" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11780" PostId="8408" Text="This sounds very interesting, let me try installing it and I'll get back to you later. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-09T04:24:55.820" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11783" PostId="8408" Text="Its not working in my office laptop. I guess its not a free app to use :( After the installation completes, it takes me to their website and ask for a serial-key. I skipped the part. The windows explorer thumbnail still showing Picasa icon." CreationDate="2011-02-09T04:49:26.127" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11784" PostId="8451" Score="2" Text="Maybe I'm missing something, but in that case, the distance to the subject isn't changing. What is changing is the focal length of the lens. (24mm to 70mm)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T05:02:28.453" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="11785" PostId="8452" Text="@Daniel - Line of site is entirely relevant to the discussion though, it is the single biggest advantage that radio triggers have over optical and so to make it &quot;even&quot; means, well, it's even and the essential question becomes irrelevant: they both do the job at the speed of light." CreationDate="2011-02-09T05:26:33.083" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11786" PostId="8454" Text="@Greg, how exactly are you able to shoot at 1/1000 sec without seeing black bars? What camera do you use? The average SLR has a sync speed of 1/250. Anything faster than that will yield blackened areas in your frame, unless you use High Speed Sync mode (which, AFAIK, is only supported in newer PW's)." CreationDate="2011-02-09T05:27:42.220" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="11787" PostId="8455" Score="2" Text="Also, while not applicable to &quot;DIY&quot;, I'd strongly consider a shoot-through umbrella for your project needs, as it's the go-to for soft shadows on a budget/not getting fancy. A lot of these DIY projects will cost nearly as much in materials as an umbrella." CreationDate="2011-02-09T05:58:44.127" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11788" PostId="8454" Score="1" Text="You can do it on a Canon 1D, which syncs at 1/500 minimum. Many bodies can actually go higher if you are shooting manually. I was testing in a small area so the signal only had to travel about ten feet to the strobe head and remote trigger. I was actually testing duration on a WL1600 head at 1/4 power seeing if I could stop the fan blades on a ceiling fan, when I realized I was well over 1/1000 and the image was still sharp and I didn't have black bars. That 1/500 sync is a great reason to keep one of those bodies around because it lets you drop ambient by one stop more. " CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:01:00.367" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="11789" PostId="8455" Text="Umbrellas are CHEAP." CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:07:03.533" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11790" PostId="8453" Score="2" Text="+1 for an actual experiment." CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:10:22.827" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11791" PostId="8372" Text="For your battery consumption issue, you might consider powering them with 6v SLA batteries. There are a bunch of blogs that talk about these." CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:34:28.373" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="11792" PostId="7" Score="1" Text="@NickAldwin - Actually, it isn't really the focal length but distance to you subject or &quot;the size of your subject in the picture&quot; that is important. If you make a portrait where the head is filling the picture frame with a 90mm lens and a 35mm lens, both at F2.8, you'll get the same DOF. The difference is there will be more distance between you and your subject when using the 90mm." CreationDate="2011-02-09T07:10:56.410" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="11793" PostId="8441" Text="@jrista: I answered your followup question in the body of my answer..." CreationDate="2011-02-09T08:15:48.950" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11794" PostId="8446" Score="1" Text="I believe the V500 comes with medium format film holders as well, perhaps those might hold it?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T08:19:43.090" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="11795" PostId="8463" Text="+1 for the resale value point, I forgot that one." CreationDate="2011-02-09T08:57:32.950" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11796" PostId="8395" Text="Where is the setting for Camera Raw?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T10:04:18.663" UserId="3341" />
  <row Id="11797" PostId="8410" Text="Distortion can be complex. Typically on a short-zoom like the kit lens, you get loads and loads of barrel distortion at the wide end, gradually switching to pincushion distortion as you zoom in. A macro will have a better resolution than a zoom - that said, the 18-55 IS kit zoom is actually pretty good in this particular." CreationDate="2011-02-09T10:25:07.327" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11798" PostId="8251" Text="I think the scenario is exactly the opposite, you can use Micro 4:3 lenses in other mounts with an adapter (silly thing because the greater crop factor anyway), but not the other way around. That's precisely because they are closer to the sensor, and while it's quite easy to put them further away (with an extension tube), you cannot bring them closer (OK, maybe sawing the shell XD)? Of course you can still mount a lens designed for a more distant focusing plane, but it is very inconvenient to loose the ability to focus at infinity." CreationDate="2011-02-09T10:55:25.973" UserId="3525" />
  <row Id="11799" PostId="8455" Text="If you're going the continuous lighting route then it's worth seeing what you're abient light looks like. If you have a single bulb and white walls that will probably give you &quot;broad bright lighting&quot; and soft shadows. Colour accuracy may suffer if you have energy saving bulbs installed so you might want to swap to tungsten for the duration of the project." CreationDate="2011-02-09T10:56:00.947" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11800" PostId="8451" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4928/21" CreationDate="2011-02-09T12:16:04.407" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11801" PostId="8400" Text="How about editing the original answer to include the operating system?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T12:21:44.773" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="11802" PostId="8468" Score="4" Text="+1 difference is huge when working in low light." CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:02:32.800" UserId="3427" />
  <row Id="11803" PostId="8251" Score="2" Text="i think you have it the other way around.." CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:05:42.930" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11804" PostId="8468" Score="1" Text="+1 build quality and focusing override. " CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:09:35.763" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11805" PostId="8365" Text="If they are asking for the RAW files, I suggest you give them exactly that: Copies of the RAW files, not exported from LR but copied straight from the disk. And I'd expect them to be compentent enough to know that this implies that they do actually have to redo all your editing work!" CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:27:32.053" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11806" PostId="8400" Text="I'm curious - how is the performance with IrfanView?" CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:29:57.637" UserId="3785" />
  <row Id="11807" PostId="8251" Text="Hmmm... It seems that I was extrapolating from my Pentax K in Nikon EF and Canon EOS mounts adapters knowledge, where the extra flange distance difference comes from the lens itself, not the camera body. And of course, if the lens body is the same length, the extra distance needed can be added with the adapter. You were right :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T13:49:48.960" UserId="3525" />
  <row Id="11808" PostId="509" Text="The f-number is a ratio to the focal length, which means that f/2.8 on a 100mm lens is actually double the aperture *diameter* of f/2.8 on a 50mm lens.  Increasing focal length gives you the square of the effect, since you get more *background blur* both from everything being magnified as well as the fact you're widening the aperture to maintain the same f-number.  So while it may be true that focal length can &quot;cancel out&quot; equivalent change in subject distance for *DOF* - a longer lens still wins in *background blur* even taking into account maintaining framing. Happy to be proven wrong though" CreationDate="2011-02-09T14:10:33.060" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11809" PostId="8424" Text="Fortunately the D50 is the only entry DSLR by Nikon with a screw auto-focus engine :)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T14:43:15.417" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="11810" PostId="8428" Text="Agree with both lenses! Although the 85mm f1.8 isn't expensive (bought mine for 400€) but a bit over the budget, but honestly it's worth every penny." CreationDate="2011-02-09T14:45:54.683" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="11811" PostId="8474" Text="Focal-lengths are a personal matter. I know very successful photographer who made an entire 40 year career only shooting with a 50mm one. Chose you focal according to how you see the world. Some people tend to like it wide others long, it's OK.&#xA;&#xA;I once did a trade with another photographer, she was only using long lenses, I only wide ones. Neither of us faired well when using the lenses that did not match our personal vision." CreationDate="2011-02-09T15:13:39.730" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11812" PostId="8478" Score="2" Text="+1 - I have a Sigma that is far cheaper than the namebrand counterpart and a Sigma lens that is more expensive than the namebrand counterpart...and the more pricey one is *soooo* much better.  Lenses really are one of those things where you get what you pay for.  I think its hard for many of us newbies to accept that there can be THAT much of a quality difference for the price, but *wow*, there is." CreationDate="2011-02-09T15:36:26.387" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11813" PostId="8471" Text="(+1) Good advice.  I had no trouble using a polarizer with this lens, though, because the range of rotation is so slight (about 45 degrees from 0.3 meters to infinity) that small changes in focus after setting the filter made no visible difference." CreationDate="2011-02-09T16:43:28.197" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11814" PostId="8468" Text="I was going to answer, but I think you've nailed it :)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T16:46:37.837" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11815" PostId="8484" Text="@Matt: When you mentioned about 'odd looking colour shifts', was it if one does filtering/sharpening in RGB space or UV space? " CreationDate="2011-02-09T17:11:31.613" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="11817" PostId="8489" Score="2" Text="There's another answer - electronic shutters, which I think is what the questioner is referring to" CreationDate="2011-02-09T17:42:42.903" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11818" PostId="8485" Score="8" Text="Hi Fons, thanks for your answer and welcome to photo-SE! Two quick things, there's no need to 'sign' your answers (so I removed your signature), and in general the community 'best practice' is when including a link, also summarize what is said at that link in your answer. The main reason for this is that the link may not always be 'good,' but if the author of the answer has summarized what can be found at the link then the knowledge will be preserved here on photo-SE, even if the other site is no longer available..." CreationDate="2011-02-09T17:43:47.933" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11819" PostId="8372" Text="do you have any links? I have no idea what the &quot;6v SLA&quot; is." CreationDate="2011-02-09T17:55:17.597" UserId="1310" />
  <row Id="11820" PostId="8446" Text="perfect! i'm a dufus." CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:04:39.003" UserId="3744" />
  <row Id="11821" PostId="8484" Text="@goldenmean: It makes little or no difference -- it happens either way." CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:21:01.443" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="11822" PostId="8484" Text="It doesn't matter which space you use, but if you sharpen the luminance channel only you don't get colour artifacts." CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:33:39.587" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11824" PostId="8471" Text="To expand on finding a replacement, I find it is useful to see what focal lengths you primarily use and try to find a good lens that concentrates on that region. For example, I was ready to buy a 50mm lens, but my usage of the kit lenses (18-55, 55-250) made me realize I primarily concentrate on 18-30. This convinced me to purchase a wider prime lens. " CreationDate="2011-02-09T18:58:15.260" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="11825" PostId="8484" Score="1" Text="+1 Nice analysis of the difference between luminance-only sharpening and all-channel sharpening.  I'm seeing artifacts in the luminance-only sharpening, too (consider the left edge of the building where a line of pixels has been darkened; this did not happen in the all-channel sharpened image).  It looks like one could decide to sharpen either way, depending on the purpose of the sharpening and the nature of the image." CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:05:46.387" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11826" PostId="8486" Score="1" Text="There are also various non-SLR cameras that have this benefit, eg (to name just one) the Canon G9 (and likely other Gx series models), which I think start to fall off (with dimming, rather than banding) above 1/1000 of a second or so - at least with radio triggers. I could do some careful testing if anyone wants. " CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:32:33.550" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11827" PostId="8456" Score="1" Text="The PVC and cotton light tent is a great idea. I too have built one and find it to be absolutely invaluable." CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:38:45.417" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11828" PostId="8455" Score="1" Text="There is one *teeny* little problem with tungsten, and that's the whole &quot;it makes plasteline runny&quot; thing. And any modifiers need to be able to stand the heat as well. And while ambient can work, I've found that I need to overload my senses somewhat to really see the effects of light (habituation hides a multitude of sins). Maybe that's a personal deficiency, but it's one I've learned to live with :)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:42:53.350" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11829" PostId="8486" Score="1" Text="Sony Alphas with an external flash that supports High Speed Sync can use shutter speeds up to 1/4000. (I assume that's what you're asking about)" CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:06:44.833" UserId="276" />
  <row Id="11830" PostId="8486" Score="2" Text="@TREE High speed sync isn't really flash, it's a just a way of turning a flashgun into a continuous lightsource, it doesn't have the ability to overpower ambient the way true sync at above 1/250s does." CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:10:30.087" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11831" PostId="8468" Text="-1 for etc - that given no additional inforation and I would like you to list what etc is so that I can see it" CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:29:59.487" UserId="3101" />
  <row Id="11832" PostId="8469" Score="3" Text="My opinion is that you are not going to upgrade from the kit lense then you might as well go for a camera like the g11 which is more convenient and gives you better zoom." CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:33:58.220" UserId="3101" />
  <row Id="11833" PostId="8455" Text="&quot;it makes plasteline runny&quot;??" CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:00:55.457" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11834" PostId="8456" Text="I've updated my question, as I didn't make it clear before...but I am looking for *continuous* lighting, rather than flash." CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:02:17.470" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11835" PostId="8465" Text="I've updated my question, as I didn't make it clear before...but I am looking for *continuous* lighting, rather than flash." CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:02:43.117" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11836" PostId="7" Text="Another thing to consider if you are taking portraits is that getting in close with a wider angle lens can result in a image that some people feel is unattractive -- as it can make the face look wider and the nose larger. Backing off and using a longer lens results in an image that is often found more pleasing." CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:04:11.043" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="11837" PostId="8456" Text="Yup, I got that (though I did mention flash in my answer; that's fixed now). As far as I know, everything here could work with continuous lighting (I use regular incandescent with my light tent). The only gotcha is that you have to worry about heat more. " CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:21:18.330" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11838" PostId="8480" Text="This is a different question." CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:46:28.100" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11839" PostId="8453" Text="Believe it or not (as you wish), what you are seeing here is an artifact of digital photography. If your recording medium had enough resolution, you'd come to the opposite conclusion (as I did with Kodak Technical Pan, which, at some 200 line pairs per millimeter when developed for continuous tones handily outresolved all of my lenses -- equivalent to about 140 megapixels). Once the circle of confusion gets smaller than about 120% of a pixel, it doesn't have a lot of influence on any pixel but the one it hits hardest." CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:52:08.750" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11840" PostId="8455" Text="Yeah -- the heat makes modelling clay (plasteline is the generic name for the non-hardening stuff, and if you change a couple of letters you get a trademarked brand name) soft enough that you need to build everything on armatures and *still* watch for sagging. It's not that your objects are going to be clay, but it's handy stuff for propping things in place (as is that blue tacky stuff whose brand name is its description)." CreationDate="2011-02-09T23:06:10.317" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11841" PostId="509" Text="@Erica: Insightful comment.  So, given a *fixed framing*, focal length is a function of subject distance.  If you change one, the other has to change.  Checking out http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html confirms your comment as correct.  The *actual* DOF doesn't change significantly if at all.  However as others may be quick to point out the *apparent* DOF does change because the image appears &quot;compressed&quot;.  It just depends on what DOF effect is desired." CreationDate="2011-02-09T23:16:19.397" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="11843" PostId="8497" Score="3" Text="I just have to give a +1 to something this involved." CreationDate="2011-02-09T23:41:48.170" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11844" PostId="5778" Text="I have discovered this camera is called a &quot;Diana&quot; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diana_camera" CreationDate="2011-02-10T00:09:53.967" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11845" PostId="8499" Score="1" Text="Rereading your post I don't really understand if you want a fast zoom equivalent to the 28-105 of the Canon S95 or a prime that is somewhat comparable to the speed of the S95." CreationDate="2011-02-10T00:46:23.857" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11846" PostId="8499" Text="It really just depends on what you want to photograph... But I'd go for the 50mm lens." CreationDate="2011-02-10T00:47:05.417" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11847" PostId="8501" Score="4" Text="BTW, if you have one of the lighter-weight Nikon DSLRs (D3000, D3100, D5000, etc), it may not have a focus motor, so only the Nikon DX 35mm F1.8G among those will be able to autofocus: http://www.neocamera.com/lens.php?id=75" CreationDate="2011-02-10T01:13:17.560" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="11848" PostId="8074" Score="1" Text="Technically the answer wasn't really wrong, just missleading, as Mb/s is often used to refer to mbit/s while MB/s is used to refer to mbyte/s...easy to mix up. I've edited the answer so that it shows both rates, and the reader can pick the one that is most meaningful to them." CreationDate="2011-02-10T01:32:22.827" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11849" PostId="8074" Text="As @kacalapy stated, class usually refers to the write speed. It is entirely possible for a card to have a label that states 15MByte/s speed...however that speed usually refers to the READ speed, not the write speed. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T01:39:19.623" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11850" PostId="8383" Text="But I like my dot..." CreationDate="2011-02-10T01:47:49.223" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11851" PostId="8074" Text="I appreciate the corrections though one more slight nitpick I'm afraid - usually by convention Mb or Mbit as in megabits has a lowercase &quot;b&quot; whereas MB as in megabytes has an uppercase &quot;B&quot;.  Quote wikipedia page on megabytes: &quot;It is commonly abbreviated as Mbyte or MB (compare Mb, for the megabit).&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-10T04:13:10.427" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11852" PostId="8484" Text="If your purpose of sharpening is only to correct for actual softness in the image (such as lens softness, anti-aliasing filter, or bayer interpolation), then it's quite legitimate to sharpen the colour channels too (though probably by a different amount than luminance).  Only if you over-sharpen like in the above samples would you notice any undesirable colour shift.  If the over-sharpening &quot;effect&quot; (local contrast enhancement) is your goal, however, then depending on what you want, you may even want the colour shift (or then again you might not).  So there's no hard and fast rule." CreationDate="2011-02-10T04:22:49.277" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11853" PostId="8400" Text="@awe: it was slow and I did not find it user friendly enough.&#xA;@t3mujin: thanks, done." CreationDate="2011-02-10T04:30:21.470" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11854" PostId="8499" Score="2" Text="I suggest you read from other websites than ken rockwell. Just a suggestion..." CreationDate="2011-02-10T05:27:18.807" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11855" PostId="8426" Text="@Leonidas Thanks for detailed answer that really helped" CreationDate="2011-02-10T05:32:50.640" UserId="2107" />
  <row Id="11856" PostId="8358" Text="i think this is on the right track. i don't think my photos need ICE and the scanner was trying to tell me that." CreationDate="2011-02-10T07:08:05.380" UserId="3744" />
  <row Id="11857" PostId="8507" Text="And because I know I wouldn't be able to really comprehend an abstract question like this without numbers, here's an example: starting with a 10-22, the lenses under consideration would be 17-55 (overlapping) and 24-70 (complementary)." CreationDate="2011-02-10T07:35:22.657" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11858" PostId="8495" Text="Just downloaded and installed it, works excellent! and its free too! Thanks a lot, that should do it for me :D" CreationDate="2011-02-10T07:42:23.760" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11859" PostId="8508" Text="I've seen this referred to a &quot;bokeh panorama&quot; elsewhere." CreationDate="2011-02-10T08:47:17.307" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="11860" PostId="8448" Text="What's a &quot;TAFE&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T08:55:01.543" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="11861" PostId="8400" Text="@Pearsonartphoto: The _possible duplicate_ you point to is for RAW editors/converters/processing software, which requires much more from the software than just viewing, which is what's asked for in this question." CreationDate="2011-02-10T09:13:55.960" UserId="3785" />
  <row Id="11863" PostId="8499" Text="@Leonidas - please see edit above. Zoom isn't really a requirement." CreationDate="2011-02-10T09:36:23.987" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11864" PostId="8499" Text="@NickBedford - can you suggest some alternative potential gurus?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T09:36:49.867" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11866" PostId="8486" Text="@TREE, that's not exactly what I was thinking of, but it's a good answer.  Why don't you put it in a proper answer below?  it's great information.  Thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T09:47:43.200" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11867" PostId="8486" Text="@lindes, thanks for the info.  Why don't you put that in a &quot;real&quot; answer below?  It will make it easier for people to find it.  Thanks again :)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T09:48:52.807" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11868" PostId="8489" Text="@Matt Grum is right, but really I'm just interested in anything that will give me another way to control ambient.  (Plus the whole idea just kind of appeals to my geek side).  " CreationDate="2011-02-10T09:50:31.387" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11869" PostId="8514" Score="1" Text="@Guillaume, that's quite true and important, and thank you for pointing it out.  However, the main reason for wanting a faster shutter speed is not to freeze the action but to control the ambient light.  ... I guess it would also freeze any action which was being lit by ambient light.  " CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:03:50.940" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11870" PostId="8488" Text="Thanks, @LC1983.  Love your site, btw. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:06:04.040" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11871" PostId="8486" Text="Thanks, @Matt Grum.  Seems like a pretty definitive answer! Now I'm off to eBay to find me a 1D ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:11:37.250" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11872" PostId="8465" Score="1" Text="Fair enough.  Good clarification.  I imagine the same light modifiers would work?  I suggest that cheap LED lamps would be the ideal light sources as they don't get too hot (have to watch the colour, though).  " CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:23:16.180" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11873" PostId="8516" Score="4" Text="Links are okay, but they can break. Please include some basic information in your answers, so that if the links go bad people can still get the gist of the answer -- this site hopes to be around for the long haul. You should use links to supplement the answers you provide, not to *be* the answers." CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:27:53.173" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11874" PostId="8488" Text="Cheers, it still needs a lot of work though." CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:35:03.377" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="11875" PostId="8499" Score="1" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1520/lens-review-sites for other review sites containing pictures/data/evaluation, for example http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests" CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:36:37.383" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11876" PostId="8517" Score="1" Text="It's a poor man's substitute for a bellows or a mini-view setup. Fun, I'd imagine, but every shot is an experiment at best, especially given the image circle of ordinary 35mm-format lenses and the fact that your focus depends on your hands. The &quot;serious&quot; equivalent would be something like the Cambo X2 or Ultima 35 and a Digitar (or similar) lens." CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:41:24.537" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11877" PostId="8499" Text="If &quot;speed&quot; is really the factor: watch out for Itais comment on his answer. (1) you need a lens with an AF-motor of its own for your D5000 and (2) it should be better an ultrasonic AF-motor. The focusing speed will be overall faster, but not if the AF-motor is slow. I'd guess that combined with Auto-ISO on your DSLR any lens will be faster with as good as results than the compared S95 (D5000 pictures should be as usable up to ISO 1600 as the D90s, same sensor AFAIK)." CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:43:43.957" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11878" PostId="8516" Text="Even if the links breaks, it should be a starting point for finding that particular source of information, or google for something related. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't like to copy/paste from linked resources - with the exception of existing summary in case of a single link." CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:48:54.430" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="11879" PostId="8516" Text="Also, the amount of information that I might assume that is enough to be included in the answer may very well be dangerously incomplete for others." CreationDate="2011-02-10T10:55:09.240" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="11880" PostId="8511" Text="What are the reasons why people _don't_ like it?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:15:37.257" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11881" PostId="8499" Text="@Leonidas - many thanks. Those review sites look great ..." CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:16:47.943" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11882" PostId="8500" Text="+1 for mentioning lack of autofocus for the f/1.8 on the D5000. I was just about to order this from Amazon :-(&#xA;&#xA;Do you think I should regard this as a deal-breaker? It seems to tick all the other boxes at a very reasonable price point...&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:22:17.610" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11883" PostId="8517" Score="1" Text="well, bellows themselves are poor man's substitute to costly macro lenses!" CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:45:30.057" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11884" PostId="8514" Text="@AJ Finch: right, but when you work at 1/500, it means there is quite a lot of light. To make a difference, you'll need quite a powerfull flash. Not that this is never the case, but it is not the most usual setup ..." CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:51:47.973" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="11885" PostId="8486" Text="AFAIK, **Nikon D80** should be in this list" CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:51:49.560" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="11886" PostId="8516" Score="1" Text="No information, on the other hand, is &quot;dangerously incomplete&quot; for *everybody*. We're not talking about cutting and pasting entire websites here -- an explanatory summary is all we ask for, at least for areas that won't fit neatly into an answer here. That's Stack Exchange-wide, too, not just this community -- Joel and Jeff are trying to create a &quot;long tail&quot; Q&amp;A environment, not just another forum." CreationDate="2011-02-10T11:52:38.343" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11887" PostId="8517" Score="2" Text="Wait, aren't costly macro lenses on modern cameras just a poor mans substitute for a good old middle-format bellows-camera? :)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T12:19:55.447" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11889" PostId="8517" Text="lol, you can say that!" CreationDate="2011-02-10T12:32:44.650" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="11890" PostId="8518" Score="3" Text="FYI - Lenses listed as EF-S don't show their focal lengths in &quot;effective focal length&quot; but their true focal length - just like EF lenses so listing this as a requirement is unnecessary. I would lean towards EF lenses personally in case one day you decide to upgrade to a full frame camera." CreationDate="2011-02-10T12:49:50.923" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="11891" PostId="8502" Text="@drewbenn - Thanks, I've edited my OP to reflect the fact the comparison to the S90/5's optics wasn't v. helpful on my part as I'm looking for a prime/fixed lens with a big aperture. Is there anything you could suggest with these requirements?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T13:37:30.017" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11892" PostId="8523" Text="Except that getting the mid-range lens in this scenario (mid-teens to more than 70) means giving up at least a stop, and closer to two at the longer end (where it's more likely you'd want to do the bokeh thing) compared to the two lenses given as examples." CreationDate="2011-02-10T13:51:26.917" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11893" PostId="8483" Score="1" Text="about 3, high speed sync doesn't help you overpower ambient as all it does is strobe the flash to act like like a continuous lightsource. So your options are electronic shutter or superfast mechanical shutter (which will set you back a lot as they're only found in pro bodies or some MF/LF lenses), you can also sneak past your sync speed by timing the flash just right, newer picketwizards allow this." CreationDate="2011-02-10T13:59:39.933" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11895" PostId="8514" Score="1" Text="Note that when working near the sync speed, you're probably firing the flash at full power, and the flash duration will actually be quite close to the shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:01:37.047" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="11896" PostId="8517" Text="I understand the humor, but the two examples I gave run at $1500 and $4000, respectively, *without* the glass. It's another three grand if you want a lens to go with it. You can always use older view camera lenses if you want, but the older designs -- the ones you can call affordable -- won't be coated or corrected well enough for a 35mm-format DSLR's sensor. And even an &quot;accessory&quot; bellows will let you use a 12mm micro lens for an easy 20X magnification -- just a little bit bigger than you can get with a macro lens." CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:05:00.757" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="11897" PostId="8483" Text="@Matt Grum, I don't understand that - if the shutter is faster, then surely I'm getting less ambient, regardless of what the flash is doing?  Can you explain?  Thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:19:52.930" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11898" PostId="8506" Score="1" Text="Those graphs were very intelligible, I stayed awake AND found them useful :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:34:28.910" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="11899" PostId="8526" Score="3" Text="+1.  Concerning focal length, use ExposurePlot (http://www.cpr.demon.nl/prog_plotf.html ) to graph the frequency of your choices of focal lengths in the kit zoom.  If you find a large spike at the upper limit, look for a medium telephoto lens.  If you find a large spike at the lower limit, look for an extreme wide angle lens.  If almost all photos are at similar focal lengths, you might not need a zoom at all and could benefit from the better optics of a prime (fixed focal length) lens.  Similarly, plot apertures: if many are the lowest possible, look for a brighter lens." CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:39:07.873" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="11900" PostId="8511" Score="1" Text="Maybe some people read that they &quot;should&quot; have a fast prime with a normal field of view, then discover that it's not really that compelling for them. Really, the only thing lacking with this lens is a distance scale. It even has full-time manual focus override!" CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:39:15.067" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="11901" PostId="8523" Text="I'm sure there are better choices... I was simply picking focal length ranges that I know exist, I didn't consider specific lenses. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:50:23.230" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11902" PostId="8483" Score="1" Text="@AJ yes you are getting less ambient when you use a faster shutter with HSS, but because the flash is now a continuous source (albeit for only 1/250s at a time) you also get less flash, so your flash/ambient balance stays the same! " CreationDate="2011-02-10T14:57:52.243" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11903" PostId="8276" Score="1" Text="There is another related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/11/67" CreationDate="2011-02-10T15:03:52.033" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11904" PostId="7141" Text="Thanks for saying I am smart and young. I can only claim ownership of one of those qualities :)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T15:10:01.607" UserId="3240" />
  <row Id="11905" PostId="8532" Score="2" Text="Oh, and for weight... past a certain point, you mount the camera to the lens and not the other way around. If the physical strength of the mount becomes an issue you are doing something very, very wrong." CreationDate="2011-02-10T15:11:13.540" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="11906" PostId="8483" Text="Right.  With you.  I think.  Thanks. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T15:32:26.470" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11907" PostId="8542" Score="3" Text="Why not just use the right tool for the job and use a scanner?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T16:58:18.173" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="11908" PostId="8542" Text="Can you elaborate on your workflow?  does the OCR work on the JPEGs, or do you convert the JPEGs to PDF first?  What is the quality of the printing like?  Is it aged or is it all fairly crisp?   " CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:02:29.623" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="11909" PostId="8544" Text="I don't think f/8 is realistic for shooting handheld indoors (unless using flash, you'll need to ask the library for permission first) plus f/8 is going to cause distraction with a small sensor, the sharpness gain is minimal compared to the required increase in shutter time / ISO." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:05:17.260" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11910" PostId="8544" Text="@Matt f/8 is an example to show that he wants a higher number to increase the depth of field (and reduce other aberrations such as CA, which may be visible).  I didn't give him guidelines as I am not sure how much light he has.  Distraction? You mean diffraction?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:06:22.047" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="11911" PostId="8074" Text="Thanks for clarifying my post. I knew what I meant, I probably just didn't type it right. :P" CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:11:16.947" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="11912" PostId="8544" Text="Yeah I meant diffraction - I'm writing this on my phone which has an annoying habit of autocorrecting my words even when I spell them correctly. CA wont be a major problem (compared to camera shake), I think you'd be best a stop down from wide open, if light is a big problem..." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:13:52.973" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11913" PostId="8544" Text="Don't you love technology? Yeah, I'd say one stop from wide open is a good guideline and agree that camera shake would be the crux." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:19:27.363" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="11914" PostId="8508" Score="1" Text="http://blog.buiphotography.com/2009/07/the-brenizer-method-explained-with-directions/" CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:23:37.480" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="11915" PostId="8548" Score="4" Text="LOL - *Most* photography related equipment recommendations are important that the items don't catch fire." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:33:13.643" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11916" PostId="8542" Score="3" Text="&quot;Why not just use the right tool for the job and use a scanner?&quot; - Because many of the documents that I work with are not scannable. They are either very fragile, or the library does not allow you to scan, or the library charges exorbitant costs to scan upwards of $0.50/page." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:46:04.403" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11917" PostId="8548" Score="1" Text="You mean a charger for the battery, right? Because the camera itself does not charge, though it would be pretty awesome if you could plug it into your computer and charge it like you charged an iPhone." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:49:34.510" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11918" PostId="1746" Score="5" Text="It's worth noting that he sometimes reviews gear based on the specifications alone without ever actually using it... " CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:49:50.743" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11919" PostId="8542" Text="&quot;Can you elaborate on your workflow?&quot; - I convert the JPGs to PDF and work with them on the computer, printing some of them off to mark them up." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:53:07.223" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11920" PostId="2546" Text="Most people have no idea how fake most food product shots are!  Hamburgers get as much fussing up as a fashion model." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:53:08.877" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11921" PostId="8544" Text="That's a really good suggestion to shoot with max MPs, and then then downsample on the computer. I can imagine that sharpening + extra contrast will lead to much sharper text, easier to read." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:55:43.333" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11922" PostId="8546" Text="Can you suggest a good (and relatively inexpensive) tripod which would be useful, and allow me to flip the camera over so it's facing parallel to the pages I am photographing? I have looked at the Joby tripods and they look promising, but I've heard that they often shift when you hit the shutter." CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:56:43.070" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11923" PostId="8548" Text="@Jason Yep, on the S95 you take the battery out and put it into a charging cradle" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:00:13.660" UserId="3812" />
  <row Id="11924" PostId="8502" Score="1" Text="@5arx do this on your kept or favorite photos: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7268/software-for-determining-most-frequently-used-focal-length , then pick the most-affordable-for-you, widest-aperture lens that is closest to where you take the most pictures." CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:12:32.947" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11925" PostId="8541" Text="Yeah, you're right, thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:13:05.287" UserId="3809" />
  <row Id="11926" PostId="8549" Score="2" Text="What camera is it exactly that you are using?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:13:17.750" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11927" PostId="8542" Score="2" Text="I would like for it to have been said: I hope that your uses are appropriately respecting copyrights, if and as relevant. :) Presuming so, I hope you find your answers!" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:20:26.280" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="11928" PostId="8542" Text="@lindes - good call" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:34:24.073" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11929" PostId="8500" Score="1" Text="I think the 50/1.8 is a very attractive lens at the price. Manual focus takes some getting used to, but it's really not that hard at 1.8. You still have the aids like the green dot in the viewfinder for confirming focus. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:43:44.823" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="11930" PostId="8542" Score="2" Text="&quot;I hope that your uses are appropriately respecting copyrights&quot; - Yes, my work is with documents outside of copyright restraints (I am a historian, mostly studying late 19th century europe)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:56:06.497" UserId="3382" />
  <row Id="11931" PostId="8553" Score="2" Text="I also wasn't sure if this was a tongue-in-cheek question!" CreationDate="2011-02-10T19:55:50.587" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11932" PostId="8554" Text="Good call, I hadn't even thought of that (and I am a mechanical engineer by training!). What do you think of [this](http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-675258-Watt--Car-Inverter/dp/B000OO9V48/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1297368510&amp;sr=8-2)?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:09:53.510" UserId="3812" />
  <row Id="11933" PostId="8554" Score="1" Text="Seems to me that it'd work just fine." CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:13:52.127" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="11934" PostId="1520" Text="You could make each lens site a comment so that we could upvote the site/comment. This is a very useful resource. Thanks Eruditass" CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:21:47.710" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="11935" PostId="8529" Score="1" Text="Nikon have an F-mount [50mm f/1.2](http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/lens/mf/normal/50mmf_12/index.htm) lens, (though it is non AF) - Perhaps you mean 50mm f/1.0" CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:26:21.480" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="11936" PostId="1520" Text="@labnut, I think that's a great idea.  If anyone has any comments on a link, add it as an answer with some comments (or see if there is already one and add a comment)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:45:40.710" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="11937" PostId="8549" Score="1" Text="I'm not a photography guy, but I am guessing some of your shots will be fine for web work.  Remember that websites are of very low resolution, and with a little work on the photos, they can be quite usable in a decent design." CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:46:17.167" UserId="2034" />
  <row Id="11938" PostId="8505" Text="Given that these lights are fluorescent, doesn't that mean the color will oscillate? I've seen photos that were properly white balanced in the first half, and yellow-green in the second half, as the light color oscillated over the duration of the exposure. Since, as you state, this is only 120 watts of light, I might need to use longer exposures at ISO 100 to keep noise down." CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:01:53.537" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11939" PostId="8455" Text="Actually, some of the stuff in the scene might indeed be clay. In planning this with my friends, we have mulled creating little carolers, townspeople, and aliens out of clay on tiny little armatures. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:05:05.543" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11940" PostId="1523" Text="+1 for The Digital Picture" CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:25:46.823" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="11941" PostId="1746" Score="1" Text="I have read 3 of his so called reviews now and actually found myself laughing out loud while reading them." CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:27:30.940" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="11942" PostId="8551" Text="Well said.  To often the emphasis on lens decisions is based on focal length, range coverage and zooming when there are several other very valid factors to consider." CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:35:56.667" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="11943" PostId="8529" Text="Actually I meant a hypothetical 50/1.2 AF-S. The problem isn't the exit pupil per se, it's the lack of space for a contact block with the pins used for lens-body communication. The Canon 50/1.0 isn't current anymore, anyway ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:47:42.403" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="11944" PostId="8448" Text="Ah, TAFE is &quot;Technical And Further Education&quot;. It's tertiary education, but more focussed on trades and practical studies than a university. (My bad.)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:52:31.633" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="11945" PostId="8280" Text="I have to agree with Matt whole heartedly about that chromasoft article. I think it was a poorly constructed test, as the only thing being photographed is a color checker card, which doesn't have particularly bright highlights nor deep shadows, so the benefits of ETTR can hardly be realized. I think it may be necessary to do our own study here of the merits and scope of ETTR, and do a little jeopardy here on Photo-SE. I think there are a variety of scenes that could be photographed that show small benefit as well as large benefit when using ETTR." CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:56:39.823" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11946" PostId="8286" Text="Actually, I partially retract my comment.  Even though the crystals are thin, my ability to focus precisely isn't so having a bit of lee-way from the DOF helps considerably." CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:59:40.387" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="11947" PostId="8280" Text="All the answers were helpful, but this one contains all the bits of information that were ultimately the ones that I used (low ISO, shoot RAW, ETTR).  It's one of those occasions that I'd like to be able to accept more than one answer, but I have to choose one." CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:02:58.903" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="11948" PostId="8278" Text="Thanks for the very detailed answer!  I particularly appreciate seeing the photos with the differences.  If I could split the &quot;accept&quot; then I would, but I can't so you'll have to content yourself with a vote (and a message to anyone else stumbling by to vote for this one too) and many thanks. " CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:05:09.960" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="11949" PostId="8505" Score="1" Text="The amount of light is more likely to oscillate than the color temperature, but yes it can happen with older magnetic ballasts, especially if they're not in good shape. Modern electronic ballasts operate at a 5kHz, so IF there is any fluctuation, you'd have to have a shutter speed of 1/10,000th or faster to see it. :) Which is pretty unlikely as that frequency is faster than the phosphor decay.  That said, I forgot a disadvantage... adding it now." CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:05:45.983" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="11950" PostId="8277" Score="1" Text="I particularly like this answer for the timer suggestion.  Not something I might have thought of otherwise (fortunately my camera can do 2s delay so I didn't have to wait too long between shots)." CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:06:01.210" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="11951" PostId="8505" Text="details on the flicker problem with older balasts on wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_lamp#Flicker_problems" CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:12:38.473" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="11952" PostId="8506" Score="1" Text="mspaint.exe is a wonderful graphing tool :)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:13:08.067" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="11953" PostId="8277" Text="Glad it can be of use to you.  I figured it out when taking my own crystal photos." CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:26:17.050" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="11954" PostId="8549" Score="2" Text="Sell it at an antique store?" CreationDate="2011-02-10T22:43:55.947" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="11961" PostId="8542" Text="this might sound heretic, but i read canon point and shoot cameras are quite reasonable in auto mode. Have you tried pictures letting the camera do some thinking? you might be pleased with the results, and then try to improve on them based on the camera's &quot;expert opinion&quot;. there is no harm in trying :)" CreationDate="2011-02-10T23:42:21.953" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="11962" PostId="8278" Text="@Andrew you're welcome!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:06:19.560" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="11963" PostId="8549" Text="Sony F707, a good camera at the time for the price range.  It's still quite decent for a lot of things e.g. photos for web use." CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:33:01.020" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11964" PostId="8549" Text="@Pearsonartphoto - depends on the definition of &quot;antique&quot;! But yeah, I wouldn't mind selling it to a beginner or something." CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:34:26.683" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11965" PostId="8552" Score="2" Text="10 years = 100 dog years = 1000 electronic years :P" CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:34:56.807" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11966" PostId="8553" Score="1" Text="(20 kilobucks) times (.01 sales per year) = ... hmmm..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:37:39.080" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11967" PostId="8553" Text="That is an idea, to acquire an even older camera.  I had a Kodak something, DC-40 iirc, and it made *really* crappy images.  Gave it away to ex-girlfriend." CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:39:28.457" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11968" PostId="8549" Text="BTW, I'm not really sure I chose good tags for this question. If anyone can improve them, go for it." CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:40:59.563" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="11969" PostId="8543" Text="You probably mean &quot;perpendicular to the page&quot;. If you're parallel it'll be hard to read the text. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T00:54:41.320" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11970" PostId="8543" Text="@Craig Walker - he used the terms &quot;parallel&quot; to the page and I understood what he meant, so I wasn't trying to confuse him. Not to mention the sensor itself would be parallel, as would the viewfinder.  It just depends on what part of the camera your referencing.  The term was intentional." CreationDate="2011-02-11T01:39:04.913" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11971" PostId="1437" Text="@Nick Miners I'm buying my first DSLR now, and thanks to you, this is the approach I'm taking :)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T02:34:14.627" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="11973" PostId="5678" Text="I have not tried this yet, but I intend to give it a shot.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T02:43:38.490" UserId="227" />
  <row Id="11976" PostId="8497" Text="Thanks for the detailed writeup. I am not entirely certain I fully understand what the final construction is supposed to be/look like, I guess, so I'm looking forward to some additional diagrams and photos. " CreationDate="2011-02-11T02:59:38.633" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11977" PostId="8357" Text="Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that the subsampling causes the artifacts. It's just that the existing errors from quantization get blown up 2X, making them much more visible. I think it's important to know that the visible effect of subsampling is more than just a little added fuzziness." CreationDate="2011-02-11T03:08:20.260" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="11978" PostId="8507" Text="You need to make sure you factor in sensor crop factor. You mentioned 10-22, and while not all 10-22mm lenses are for cropped sensors, many are. If you wish to cover the entire focal range, overlapping or not, keep in mind that a 24-70 FF lens on APS-C will give you an FOV-effective focal length of about 37-108mm. The 17-55 FF on APS-C would be FOV-effective 26-85. If you have a full-frame camera, then crop factor will not be a factor. ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T03:09:38.057" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11979" PostId="8286" Text="Yeah, at very close distances, especially with a macro lens or extension tubes, your DOF can literally become vanishingly thin. Less than a millimeter thick if you get close enough. I would stop down a bit, maybe even back away from the crystals a bit, and expose for longer. You have a still scene, so you should be free to expose for as long as you need to at ISO 100 to get the correct exposure with minimal noise." CreationDate="2011-02-11T03:50:41.733" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11980" PostId="8357" Text="Yes you're right.  You need to choose an appropriate quantization factor/quality setting, and if you are doing any chroma sub-sampling that may affect your choice." CreationDate="2011-02-11T03:57:00.283" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11981" PostId="8571" Score="2" Text="I think &quot;same problem as malcolm&quot; is out of context here...so I'm not sure anyone will know what that comment means or refers to. Could you re-word your question without the dependency on another question, and be specific (even post images) about the problem you are experiencing?" CreationDate="2011-02-11T04:04:07.907" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11982" PostId="8571" Score="1" Text="..I don't know who &quot;malcolm&quot; is..  Can you post examples?  Can you format your question to make it more readable?  If you have a Canon Rebel, why the &quot;nikon-transfer&quot; tag?  What do you mean &quot;distorted&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-11T04:04:58.293" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="11983" PostId="8571" Score="1" Text="I think Lore is referring to this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6045/why-do-my-images-get-distorted-on-my-nikon-d40" CreationDate="2011-02-11T04:10:23.950" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="11984" PostId="8571" Score="5" Text="Just curious, did the answers to Malcom's question not also answer your question? It seems like the answers on his question were pretty thorough and covered all the bases..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T04:13:14.107" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="11985" PostId="8571" Text="I have to agree with @Jay, I think this is a duplicate of @marcamillion's question that @Benjamin linked. If you have not yet seen the question linked by @Benjamin Anderson, I recommend taking a look at the answers there. If your problem is actually different, some sample images would be useful." CreationDate="2011-02-11T04:27:37.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="11986" PostId="8571" Text="This is a duplicate, in my opinion." CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:09:00.983" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="11987" PostId="8573" Score="1" Text="Watchout if your charger is compatible to 220-240V. There are still some older out there. (PS: I'd never check in the valuable/fragile equipment.)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:12:19.173" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11988" PostId="8542" Score="1" Text="@ahockley: another reason not to scan is that it takes a very long time. With a DSLR I can do about 20 pages per minute on a tabletop, but a scanner that fast uses a document feeder and costs a lot." CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:12:31.680" UserId="3617" />
  <row Id="11989" PostId="8543" Text="Use the most megapixels you can, the OCR'd documents are what matters and they'll be relatively tiny and as long as the source is all text, unaffected by the camera resolution anyway. I use Abbyy FineReader and it works better on higher resolution images (21MP instead of 10MP, for example). So shoot at 10MP." CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:15:17.727" UserId="3617" />
  <row Id="11991" PostId="8554" Text="Worked for my laptops (not this model, though), so why shouldn't it work for a recharger? " CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:27:48.520" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="11992" PostId="2230" Text="Beautiful image." CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:44:55.977" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="11993" PostId="8543" Text="@rfusca: fair enough. " CreationDate="2011-02-11T06:19:46.143" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="11994" PostId="8552" Score="1" Text="If you get a bottom of the range type camera now, you'll get a slow f/3.5-5.6 plasticky zoom lens, and about 16 megapixels on a 1/2.3&quot; sensor with massive amounts of noise and noise reduction.  &quot;Bottom of the range&quot; is a lot more &quot;bottom&quot; now than it was when DarenW's camera was bought, I'd tip." CreationDate="2011-02-11T06:57:22.420" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11995" PostId="8553" Score="2" Text="As tongue in cheek as this answer may be, it helps support the point that the quality of your gear isn't the be-all-end-all of whether you can make good/impressive/interesting pictures." CreationDate="2011-02-11T06:59:09.283" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="11996" PostId="8537" Text="To better understand your Q2, it might be worth your time to read the answers to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor which link to even more reading material about crop factors and equivalent focal lengths." CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:16:38.050" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="11998" PostId="7947" Text="Thanks for the answers guys! Sorry for a very late reply, but I wanted some time to ponder upon what you guys have suggested. I will upload some photos tonight and will bombard some more questions :)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:33:57.897" UserId="2223" />
  <row Id="11999" PostId="2226" Text="The host disallows external linking such as this. editing entry to reflect that. (once you've seen it your browser has it cached, so jrista wouldn't have been able to tell that his link was broken.)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:36:28.340" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12000" PostId="8516" Text="@Stan Rogers: it's true that links have the bad habit to point to other sites, but on stackoverflow the quality of the linked resources is more appreciated than the presentation of the answer, see http://stackoverflow.com/questions/93744/most-common-c-bitwise-operations/317065#317065" CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:37:01.573" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="12001" PostId="8573" Text="@leonidas thanks for the tip. Thankfully my charger checks out ok" CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:50:41.437" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12002" PostId="8560" Score="1" Text="I have posted some guides for free-lensing here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8513/what-is-freelensing/8516#8516" CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:50:52.420" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="12003" PostId="8575" Text="Thanks  John. Did you take a full size tripod?" CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:52:56.580" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12004" PostId="8580" Score="3" Text="Thanks for the help. I hadn't thought about getting slugged by customs coming back. I'm Australian so will have to go looking for info." CreationDate="2011-02-11T07:56:34.367" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12005" PostId="8518" Text="What I wanted to convey in my EF remark is that the EF lenses usually have their focal length ranges tuned for full format sensors, due to which there are no real wide angle EF zoom lenses for the APS-C crop sensors. On the other hand, though EF-S lenses don't report their effective focal lengths for crop sensors, their focal lengths are tuned for the crop sensor formats (e.g. the 10-22mm EF-S)." CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:04:55.380" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12006" PostId="8526" Text="@whuber Thanks a lot for the ExposurePlot tool reference. It definitely helps quantify the nature of my photos." CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:14:58.693" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12007" PostId="8586" Score="1" Text="@cabbey: Thanks for your answer. I'm curious... is this also your procedure when you're taking pictures in environments that have lights with different color balances? What happens (for example) if you've set a balance (whether in post or on location) for tungsten equivalent lighting, but there's ALSO florescent and/or daylight (or a flash) in the mix? Do you just 'live with' any strange color shifts that result from these sorts of complex lighting arrangements?" CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:32:52.267" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12009" PostId="8516" Score="2" Text="@alexandrul: At the photo-SE community the 'best practice' we've decided to go with is generally to link but ALSO summarize for posterity. I've started a thread over on Meta about the differences between SO and photo-SE here: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/754/do-we-need-to-clarify-that-photo-se-best-practices-may-be-different-than-those if you're interested in weighing in..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:37:40.903" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12010" PostId="8051" Score="1" Text="@time4tea: I've created a thread over on Meta where we're discussing some of the differences between photo-SE and SO. It's here: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/754/do-we-need-to-clarify-that-photo-se-best-practices-may-be-different-than-those if you feel like weighing in..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:39:08.937" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12011" PostId="7559" Text="@sam: Hey, it's your reputation... Feel free to spend it any way you want! :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:47:27.230" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12012" PostId="8497" Text="Coming, but I am very much restricted in what I can do (and when I can do it) by a nasty neuromotor condition I didn't ask for. (Bitter? Nah, not me...) Sorry for the delay." CreationDate="2011-02-11T09:53:57.410" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12013" PostId="8546" Text="@Jason, fair point.  I have a Joby, which I like, but to stop it moving when you hit the shutter, just use a remote shutter release or use the self-timer.  This is actually a good tip for any  time you're using a slow shutter speed.  The bad news is that any tripod heavy enough to be very stable is not going to be cheap.  Sorry about that! (If you find out differently, let me know!)  ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T10:24:43.920" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="12014" PostId="8575" Text="Yep, it was a full-sized one. I don't trust my camera on a flimsy consumer grade tripod." CreationDate="2011-02-11T11:29:54.377" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12015" PostId="8552" Text="Here's a sample of the bottom of the range Canon, Powershot A495, £56 from Amazon (including delivery): http://img.photographyblog.com/reviews/canon_powershot_a495/sample_images/canon_powershot_a495_07.jpg I don't see &quot;massive amounts of noise&quot;, there are some lens defects, yes but downsampling to 5MP would hide a lot of these." CreationDate="2011-02-11T11:36:57.633" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12016" PostId="8578" Score="1" Text="Oh, how fondly I remember using magenta filters on lenses, deep green filters on flashes, oddly-coloured tungsten replacement bulbs and taping large sheets of sickly, acid-green Rosco film over the windows..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T12:22:05.910" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12017" PostId="6984" Score="1" Text="Yes the expected lifetime of a hard-drive is less than that of a photo/negative, but just because a HDD dies does not mean the file is lost assuming it is properly backed up." CreationDate="2011-02-11T12:23:19.480" UserId="101" />
  <row Id="12018" PostId="8516" Text="@Jay: My mistake, I wasn't aware of that. Thank you" CreationDate="2011-02-11T12:50:25.150" UserId="420" />
  <row Id="12019" PostId="8566" Text="It's more than two years old so I have no guarantee. Anyway I'll send them an e-mail and ask about their opinion." CreationDate="2011-02-11T13:20:21.430" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="12020" PostId="8513" Text="The discussion concerning the quality of this post has been moved to meta: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/754/do-we-need-to-clarify-that-photo-se-best-practices-may-be-different-than-those" CreationDate="2011-02-11T13:34:35.923" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12021" PostId="7812" Text="Still look in the matter by the way. Up to now did not find real-life differences, but it takes time." CreationDate="2011-02-11T13:36:49.603" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12022" PostId="8276" Text="Thanks for adding the 'after' shot -- really helps us to see the practical value of all this great advice!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T13:56:50.950" UserId="3660" />
  <row Id="12023" PostId="8276" Text="@anthonyg: Yes, here more than anywhere I think that one of the best ways to say &quot;thank you&quot; is to *show* how it's made a difference!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T14:01:17.477" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="12024" PostId="8276" Text="@chills42: That's one of the ones I read before posting this one and which confused me a bit.  I haven't lurked here too much, but I hoped (and it seems by the response I got that I was right) that similar-but-not-quite-the-same questions were okay.  It's useful to have the link in the list on the right as well." CreationDate="2011-02-11T14:02:56.413" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="12025" PostId="8589" Score="2" Text="You can create your own lens profiles for Photoshop (&amp; Lightroom) with Adobe's free Lens Profile Creator: http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/lensprofile_creator/" CreationDate="2011-02-11T14:14:29.267" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="12026" PostId="8594" Text="well I currently have a sony camera its a point and shoot consumer camera " CreationDate="2011-02-11T14:38:11.047" UserId="3822" />
  <row Id="12027" PostId="8596" Text="I already use dropbox, but to pay for the space I need looks far to expensive. I will check out carbonite as it looks much more like what I need. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-02-11T15:11:50.467" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12028" PostId="8596" Score="3" Text="Note that Mozy recently dropped their unlimited plan. Given how competition works, there's a chance Carbonite may too in the near future. With any service, be prepared to switch if necessary." CreationDate="2011-02-11T15:45:54.323" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="12029" PostId="8598" Text="I hadn't thought of how long it would take. A month! That could pose a problem, since  would like to upload the whole aperture library!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T15:52:01.010" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12030" PostId="8595" Text="If you use online services: don't neglect the importance of encrypting your data before you hand it out to company X. For Dropbox exists a client-side encryptor (BoxCryptor) for example." CreationDate="2011-02-11T15:57:39.153" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12031" PostId="8509" Text="Thanks for this very detailed answer!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:05:35.040" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="12032" PostId="8586" Text="On this, I like to drag along a small grey card that I can toss in when the color balance start to look wonky." CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:10:16.833" UserId="2646" />
  <row Id="12033" PostId="8595" Text="@Leonidas, on the topic of encryption, it depends, but I'll agree that generally its good idea to encrypt.  I personally don't bother with encryption of the actual photographs but I encrypt the other data..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:14:41.183" UserId="2646" />
  <row Id="12034" PostId="6912" Text="Because Active AF sends an ultrasonic signal from the body and uses the time it takes to return to the camera to calculate the distance. It then passes that distance to the lens in order to focus it. By 'independent from the lens system' I mean it doesn't use the image coming through the lens to focus." CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:24:04.180" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="12035" PostId="8602" Text="+1 interesting!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:45:58.200" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12036" PostId="8602" Score="2" Text="And a difference in white balance." CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:47:53.037" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12037" PostId="8602" Text="It would work but would be best (i.e. softest) with a wide-open aperture and/or a longer lens." CreationDate="2011-02-11T16:51:13.797" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="12038" PostId="8602" Text="Unless you're shooting with a *very* short lens or shooting something very close up it won't make that much of a difference, really -- the filter is, say, 5mm from the front lens element and the plane of focus will be (usually) a metre or more distant. DoF doesn't begin to cover that on a normal-ish or longer lens, even at f/32. On the other hand, no amount of stopping down will solve the focus shift, image size change or (tx, @Shizam) white balance shift problems." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:00:11.107" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12039" PostId="8586" Text="@pharaun, yeah, I carry a small black/grey/white focus target for the same purpose. I was mostly talking about &quot;shots of opportunity&quot; as that seems to be what the OP was asking about, not shots where you have a chance to pre-set with a target." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:00:53.197" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12040" PostId="8586" Text="@cabbey, fair enough, I do have that problem too, but if I'm able to have a few second to a minute I can usually get the card out and quickly snap a shot, and then shoot the photo I wanted and fuzz with it latter :)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:13:50.727" UserId="2646" />
  <row Id="12041" PostId="8586" Text="@Jay Lance I'm a bit confused by your question... seems like the situation you asked about there, and the OP (just realized that was you too) asked about are the same thing. So uhm, yeah, this is also the procedure I use in that case since both are the same. Generally speaking, I try to avoid these cases personally, but if you're doing street photography, or other uncontrolled shooting that's hard. To be honest, I'm fine with different lights casting different colors, but that's because I spent several years working in theatre with stage lights and a wide selection of Rosco, Lee and Gam gell." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:20:09.077" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12042" PostId="8601" Text="'Also, even a &quot;Hard-edge&quot; graduated filter has a gradient' - yes, I thought that might be an issue." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:34:57.410" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="12043" PostId="8602" Text="Thanks Stan _et al_. It would just be a stop-gap until I got a hard-edge, I have a soft edge and a full coming soon." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:38:32.087" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="12044" PostId="6235" Text="+1 same here :P" CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:49:13.233" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12045" PostId="8570" Text="5 megapixels is not at all limiting in regular shooting, for a hobby, but the question was how to make money, and if all the stock sites have a limit of 10 megapixels then 5 is going to limit your potential quite seriously, it's not like you can (well should) shoot weddings with it either, if you want to make money first you must invest. Or do what Kendall suggests..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:56:16.373" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12046" PostId="8605" Score="7" Text="A replacement runs less than $10 ($5 for cheaper brands).  Why not just do it?  If the problem turns out not to be the cad, you have a spare card, which is good to have anyway." CreationDate="2011-02-11T17:59:31.173" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12047" PostId="8595" Score="6" Text="Does it *need* to be online?  Would a pair of 250GB external hard drives, one at home being updated and one stored off-site (and swap them every few weeks or whenever you have a new set of irreplaceable photos), fulfill your requirements?  That's an upfront cost of around $100 or less, and no maintenance costs, provided you have a place (like at work or at a friend's or relative's house) to store the off-site drive." CreationDate="2011-02-11T18:14:30.840" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12048" PostId="8508" Score="1" Text="&quot;Bokeh panorama&quot; is what Ryan Brenizer called it. &quot;Brenizer Method&quot; is what others started calling it and that's what stuck." CreationDate="2011-02-11T18:37:46.683" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="12049" PostId="8497" Text="Thanks for the render! I understand what it is now. Should be a synch to build, thanks much for the very detailed response! Sorry about the hand condition, thats a bummer. " CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:10:13.613" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12050" PostId="8542" Text="Actually, @josenunoferreira brings up an interesting point - I seem to recall some point-and-shoot camera even having a specific mode just for stuff like this. It would detect page edges, do keystoning correction (and/or warn you), and create high contrast (even black&amp;white?) images, likely perfect for OCR. Now if I could just remember what camera that was... Samsung NV10, maybe?? I forget. Something I never owned, just played with it once. But maybe your camera has such a mode, or a camera with one would be worthwhile? Then again... http://diybookscanner.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;t=663" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:16:04.107" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12051" PostId="2578" Score="1" Text="@che Resolution is going up faster than noise improves. There's a limit to how high ISO can go, eventually physics comes along to spoil your party and you simply don't have enough photons for a clean image. Resolution is limited by physics too, but you can expect to get about 300 megapixels on a 35mm sensor before diffraction limits you at large apertures. With this angular resolution you'll need a tripod in daylight!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:17:06.943" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12052" PostId="8497" Text="Render? I'll have you know that it's a genuine, craptacular P&amp;S photo with a quick bit of &quot;nobody needs to know how messy my worktable is&quot; magic wand masking applied. (I *did* notice after taking it that it looked remarkably like a bad 3D render. I do need the box, though, so it wasn't time wasted. And it took me just under an hour in my state -- a regular person ought to be able to get that much done in under half an hour with less than five bucks in the swear jar.)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:26:15.017" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12053" PostId="8610" Score="6" Text="A bunch of good points here. Allow me also to emphasize the ergonomics point. I shoot almost exclusively in manual mode, and would be miserable without two dials (and thus would take the 60D, even if for no other reason), *however*, I've known folks to feel that an XXD-series camera felt too big for their small hands, and they much preferred the XXXD-series cameras; when deciding between cameras, it really really helps to try each one in your own hands, and see how they feel. The 600D I'm sure would be &quot;better&quot; for some, because of size and shape considerations. " CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:28:21.583" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12054" PostId="8578" Score="2" Text="One thing I forgot -- I always used to keep a CD &quot;coaster&quot; (a bad burn -- they used to be the rule, not the exception -- or one of the twelve AOL disks I used to get every day) as a sort of poor man's spectroscope. Looking at the rainbow on the disk (caused by diffraction) I could see at a glance whether there was any chance of correcting the existing lighting -- some metal vapour lights are just impossible because they only emit a very few strong spectral lines, and you can see that right away. It saves a lot of time testing." CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:40:53.870" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12055" PostId="8612" Text="+1 for being 'penny wise and pound foolish.' Better to get a new card then to lose images." CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:41:31.717" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12056" PostId="8578" Text="@Stan: That is a *great* reminder! One of my mentors used to do the same thing, but I'd forgotten all about it. Nice! Gotta love those sodium vapor lights... :-/" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:46:49.043" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12057" PostId="8586" Text="*Not* dealing with the fact that there's multiple types of lighting in a space is a legit answer, for sure. As a wedding photographer a whole lot of what I shoot is in multiple lighting environments where having an 'off' color cast isn't an acceptable outcome because it's someone's wedding photos and extreme orange, or sickly green just aren't good looks for a bride. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:49:54.517" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12058" PostId="8516" Text="No harm, no foul. Just letting you know... :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:51:45.840" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12059" PostId="8613" Score="2" Text="or, save yourself some faffing about and bin it because it is already failing on a frequent basis... :)" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:56:26.660" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12060" PostId="8542" Text="@lindes buying a specific camera might be a bit over the top :P also: http://www.dpreview.com/news/1008/10081918canonpowershots95.asp#specs i see no scene mode that looks like that. try in full auto, @jason, let us see some results!" CreationDate="2011-02-11T20:14:46.130" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12061" PostId="8210" Text="got the bag and I love it... ordered the Crumpler Disgrace neck strap too, much more comfy then the included nikon strap" CreationDate="2011-02-11T20:21:23.797" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="12062" PostId="8613" Score="2" Text="maybe... when I did that I was dealing with $80 cards, and needed to be sure it was the card, and not something else. Turns out it wasn't the card, it was the mirror pivot in the camera... hit it several times at high speed and it jammed up." CreationDate="2011-02-11T20:39:23.430" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12063" PostId="8508" Text="Should I change &quot;Benizer Method&quot; by &quot;Bokeh Panorama&quot; in the question?" CreationDate="2011-02-11T21:15:03.600" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="12064" PostId="8616" Text="don't suppose you can post a short clip on the web somewhere so we can see what it's doing?" CreationDate="2011-02-11T21:33:23.913" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12066" PostId="8623" Score="6" Text="If you are, e.g., 6 feet from the work with a 60mm lens, you would have to be 5 feet from the work with a 50mm lens and 10 feet from the work with a 100mm lens." CreationDate="2011-02-11T22:55:55.027" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="12067" PostId="8624" Text="This is intended as a 'Community Wiki' question..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:17:00.590" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12068" PostId="8624" Text="what's your feeling about ones that are groups of regional groups? eg: SmugMug's SMUGs, Pictage's PUGs. " CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:30:38.567" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12069" PostId="8624" Text="My gut says to keep it at a 'national' level (whatever 'nation' the organization belongs to) or global in scope... But I could be convinced otherwise if there's a strong case for regional photography organizations that cater to the photography professional (e.g. not the hobbyist or semi-pro)..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:39:27.747" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12070" PostId="8622" Text="I own the storm case that fits on in carry on, I love it, LOVE IT.  It _always_ fits, even under the seat if necessary.  I can jam a 1D, 5D, 70-200, a 580ex and 2-3 prime lenses in there no problem.  And its got _rollers_." CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:46:31.170" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12071" PostId="8508" Text="Maybe try having both phrases in there? Something like &quot;What is the 'Brenizer Method' (AKA 'Bokeh Panorama')?&quot; Just thinkin' out loud..." CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:55:27.297" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12072" PostId="8586" Text="heh, yeah, ice blue brides aren't very popular. :) And when poor uncle Vinny looks like a strawberry because the IR in the flash and the couple glasses of vino he had before the picture don't agree with each other... ooh boy, that's gunna be a fight. But that's clearly the main subject of the shot... so yeah, if she's off color than you *have* to deal with it. But if it's the background... not caring so much there." CreationDate="2011-02-11T23:55:40.213" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12073" PostId="8624" Text="Converted to CW." CreationDate="2011-02-12T00:05:36.620" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12074" PostId="8542" Text="@josenunoferreira yes, it probably is... but one never knows... it was just a thought as an extension to your comment.  :)  But yeah, there's other software out there that apparently does good conversions, so that's probably butter to use." CreationDate="2011-02-12T00:21:14.183" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12075" PostId="8453" Text="@Stan I'd be willing to bet if you tried the experiment again, but with film, you'd get the same results." CreationDate="2011-02-12T01:59:23.413" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12076" PostId="8623" Score="2" Text="Typically a 60mm macro will be less than 12&quot; from its subject to be in the &quot;macro&quot; range. Beyond that and you're not really taking advantage of the lenses' close-focus capability. Are you sure you need a macro? A standard 50mm will save you a lot of money in comparison." CreationDate="2011-02-12T02:35:50.870" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="12077" PostId="8543" Text="+1 for B/W mode. RGB for text processing is wasting pixels." CreationDate="2011-02-12T02:39:00.243" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="12078" PostId="8623" Text="@jukka you should add that as an answer... " CreationDate="2011-02-12T03:34:01.813" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12079" PostId="8619" Text="Frame rate is the likely culprit, but it's more likely the difference between 59.94Hz and 60Hz or between 29.97Hz and 30Hz. It depends whether the clock display refresh is being timed by the mains frequency or an older &quot;TV friendly&quot; crystal oscillator. Either way, the very close frequencies (camera and clock) are going to cause a long strobe cycle, so either turning the SMPTE compatibility ought to do the trick if halving the frame rate doesn't." CreationDate="2011-02-12T04:47:26.840" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12080" PostId="8553" Score="1" Text="Tongue in cheek it may be, but this answer makes an essential point - MAKE USE of the &quot;cheapness&quot;, the characteristics of the camera I have.   Some types of photography just won't be possible with it.  (And put &quot;digitarianism&quot; into wikipedia...)" CreationDate="2011-02-12T04:53:13.613" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="12081" PostId="8570" Text="Yes, f/2.0 is nice to have.  The camera is pretty good at macro photos (for some definitions of macro) but sometimes I see something beautiful at a great distance - buildings covered with snow on the side of a large hill 3 miles away - and this unremovable lens just can't deal with it." CreationDate="2011-02-12T04:56:13.453" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="12082" PostId="8592" Text="Note that lensfun is *primarily* a library for software developers to use so they can add this kind of capability to their software.  A command-line utility is included, but it's really intended as a demo of the library, not the primary use of the code." CreationDate="2011-02-12T05:07:20.617" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="12083" PostId="8641" Text="Do you know what sort of photo sales channel you want to use?  Stock?  Fine art sales?  Event photography?  Weddings?  Corporate?  Etc.... or are you looking for someone who can help you figure that out too?" CreationDate="2011-02-12T06:37:08.190" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12085" PostId="8641" Text="Are you looking for information on how to go about finding and employing someone? Or a contract relationship of some sort? How to 'get a manager?' How to find someone who will do marketing and sales 'for free?' Something else?" CreationDate="2011-02-12T07:54:18.100" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12086" PostId="8509" Text="In my P&amp;S with 70mm of focal distance with the maximum zoom, the aperture is f5.9, slower than f3.1, which is the aperture my camera has when the focal distance is 5mm. Why is that happening?" CreationDate="2011-02-12T08:49:07.980" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="12087" PostId="8509" Text="Because that's the way the lens is designed. Almost all low-cost zoom lenses are variable-aperture designs. Constant-aperture lenses are more expensive to produce, and artificially limit the aperture at lower focal lengths (for exposure consistency). If your lens had a constant aperture, it would be f/5.9. And a lot of point and shoot cameras don't have an aperture you can set at all -- the sensor, and therefore the lenses, are so small that diffraction would make the image unacceptable at less than the maximum aperture the lens can deliver." CreationDate="2011-02-12T09:27:45.373" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12088" PostId="8509" Text="Still, a 70mm f/5.9 picture that covers the same field of view as you would get at 5mm f/3.1 will have a smaller depth of field. It won't be nearly as small as what you could get at f/2.8, but it should look better than your camera's wide angle setting. Remember to get as close to the subject as you can while keeping the framing you need, and make sure that there is a good amount of distance between the subject and anything in the background/foreground." CreationDate="2011-02-12T09:31:23.653" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12089" PostId="8619" Text="That's &quot;either turning the SMPTE timebase compatibility on or off&quot; -- I have no idea what happened to the thought/language interface there..." CreationDate="2011-02-12T09:34:40.720" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12090" PostId="8514" Score="1" Text="Actually, you don't necessarily need as much flash as you seem to think. Let's say you're shooting a subject 5 feet away at f/8 and 1/500s on a sunny day. With a -1EV flash (good enough to fill the shadows), you'd use the same flash power as shooting the subject with flash only at f/5.6 (shutter speed doesn't matter). That means that a flash with a guide number of 28 in feet would be good enough -- the pop-up on a DSLR could handle it. At ten feet you'd only need a GN of 56 to do the job. A Metz 45CT would fill for &quot;whole family&quot; wedding shot at high noon shooting VPS at 80mm on a 'Blad.  " CreationDate="2011-02-12T09:49:55.230" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12091" PostId="8641" Score="1" Text="This might get better answers asked on the sister site, http://answers.onstartups.com/" CreationDate="2011-02-12T09:55:43.580" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12092" PostId="913" Text="-1 you can do IR photography on pretty much any DSLR/compact with a visible light blocking filter and a tripod. " CreationDate="2011-02-12T13:08:31.143" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12093" PostId="913" Score="1" Text="That is true, but not all scenes are suited for long exposures." CreationDate="2011-02-12T13:19:08.757" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12094" PostId="8619" Text="@Stan Good point.  I understand that the AC frequency itself can vary a little, so trying to match it could be a frustrating exercise.  Perhaps I'm wrong, though, because I don't know how much or how quickly the frequency varies." CreationDate="2011-02-12T15:08:35.517" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12095" PostId="8619" Text="@whuber Mains frequency is constantly changing, and is a product of supply and demand on the electricity grid." CreationDate="2011-02-12T16:25:03.427" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12096" PostId="8653" Text="I just installed CHDK... it's a can of worms... but really great stuff. Thanks !" CreationDate="2011-02-12T18:41:00.010" UserId="587" />
  <row Id="12097" PostId="8617" Text="Yes it would seem that the online backup I require is probably still a few years away from what everyone has made clear. While there is the space and cost that ok now, the speed and time are far from perfect. For now I guess it's going to have to be a HD and then store it somewhere safe that is in another location." CreationDate="2011-02-12T18:48:05.430" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12098" PostId="8595" Text="Although not ideal, as I was hoping for it to all work seamlessly in the background and not have to really even think about the backing up, but data speeds for backing up are going to be far to slow, let alone the transfer limits my internet provider has. I think your idea is probably best.&#xA;- Do you just swap the drives and copy the latest library across and then next time do the same with the other drive?" CreationDate="2011-02-12T18:54:33.847" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12100" PostId="8640" Text="On some rare occasions DPP has given me the colors I can't replicate with other converters - using 2-3 sliders instead of 20-30." CreationDate="2011-02-12T19:20:13.447" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="12101" PostId="8662" Text="I will have to get the tracking mount. My dad has one that I should be able to borrow for a while. Thanks for the help" CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:10:37.467" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12102" PostId="8623" Text="Greg, Everyone in my other questions suggested a macro lens. Not for their macro function but for their flat optics that will have much less distortion at the edges; no bulging edges. However, you're right, when I set the stock lens at a similar zoom I also had little distortion in the edges. But I guess I can loose something optically as the zoom function means they might not be balanced right for something. I'm not really sure? " CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:28:45.837" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12103" PostId="8643" Text="yeah that makes sense. I think I'm going to have to go with the standard tripod set up and forget the copy stand. This will work fine for when I can hold everything parallel, but some work I might have to photograph at an angle (drawings on paper). Here not only will I be moving the tripod back and forth but I'll be having to set things up inline with the angle of the shot. I think it'll work out though... " CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:33:26.457" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12104" PostId="8650" Text="that is of interest fmark. thanks for letting me know. That may change thing for me... " CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:37:22.240" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12105" PostId="8509" Text="I forgot to tell you, those focal distances aren't 35mm equivalent. So you would have to multiply them by 6 times. So the 70mm focal distance of my camera equals a 420mm in 35mm format, which is a very narrow angle. Having said that, I think the final image would have a much bigger aperture (i.e. f/0.8) am I right? Is there an easy way to calculate the equivalent **f** number when the final image is done?" CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:17:18.253" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="12106" PostId="115" Text="RAW has not color. It is the post processing that assigns the final colors to the pixels. The &quot;colors&quot; of RAW are the Bayer pattern filters colors which, without interpolation are useless for viewing the photo." CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:33:09.817" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12107" PostId="8284" Score="1" Text="But sometimes you exactly do that: do not process the negatives, throw the film away. Not because of storage just because they are the junk that one throws away. Only reason I did not use to burn single frames of a film was that I kept rolls." CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:51:45.747" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12108" PostId="8255" Text="Very good reasoning, but not helpful if you did shoot more :)" CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:54:03.200" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12109" PostId="8244" Score="1" Text="I deem this dodging the question. After all the OP also wants to delete because he finds the deleted pictures not good or duplicates. Just keeping pictures like these in the high hope that you'll find something inspiring in them later is a bit too naive to me." CreationDate="2011-02-12T22:59:50.020" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12110" PostId="8655" Score="2" Text="I've converted this to community wiki, as there isn't really a correct answer here, and it will ultimately just be a list of recommendations." CreationDate="2011-02-12T23:25:22.560" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12111" PostId="8663" Score="2" Text="I wonder if you'd have better luck with your question if terms like &quot;Astrophotography&quot; or &quot;Star Trails&quot; (if that's what you're up to) appeared in your question's title. &quot;Stacking&quot; is used for several different techniques. In fact, I had assumed you would be asking about focus stacking." CreationDate="2011-02-13T00:17:40.567" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="12112" PostId="15" Text="Peter is nobly fighting a battle that was lost years ago, methinks. Captial &quot;RAW&quot; bugs me too." CreationDate="2011-02-13T00:26:04.227" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="12113" PostId="8244" Text="@leonidas:&quot;After all the OP also wants to delete because he finds the deleted pictures not good or duplicates.&quot;  It's really not dodging anything, it's setting him on a different path that I feel is better.  The trick in answering questions is sometimes not really answering the question someone said, but answering a larger question they didn't know to ask.  The first question is &quot;should I delete images?&quot; and I provided an answer to that so he could back up and rethink the fundamental choice that led to his question." CreationDate="2011-02-13T00:44:58.983" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12114" PostId="913" Text="The Fuji IS-1 also allows you to preview what you are framing in IR or UV spectrum which removes a lot of guesswork." CreationDate="2011-02-13T00:50:01.840" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12115" PostId="8666" Text="Or you could just run it in Crossover (probably would work)." CreationDate="2011-02-13T01:04:14.567" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12116" PostId="8599" Text="I tried the Epson V750 Pro, but I just don't like the user interface and I do not get the same results as the Nikon Super CoolScan 9000 ED. Thanks for your answer." CreationDate="2011-02-13T01:59:48.763" UserId="3821" />
  <row Id="12117" PostId="8593" Text="I didn't know about the Imacon Flextite, but it is out of my range. Thanks for your answer. " CreationDate="2011-02-13T02:01:27.747" UserId="3821" />
  <row Id="12118" PostId="8605" Text="@Mike probably the card reader have the problem (combatibily issues with the camera write). The SanDisk have a long life, try to read the cart direct from your camera with usb to see if you read it or not. If you read it, then is compatibly issue with the way camera write, and card reader reads) I have same issues. " CreationDate="2011-02-13T02:04:57.987" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="12119" PostId="8509" Score="1" Text="I figured those were the actual focal lengths. To get the &quot;equivalent&quot; aperture, take the actual aperture at the long end (70mm/5.9, or 11.86mm) and divide that into the apparent focal length you are covering. Let's say you can successfully cover the entire field of view of the 5mm end of the lens, so that would give you an equivalent of 5mm/11.86, or f/0.42. Trying to cover that much variation is going to result in a *huge* amount of barrel distortion -- but you'll likely have enough pixels to correct it safely (do the correction in the bokeh area; it'll tolerate losses well)." CreationDate="2011-02-13T03:31:07.667" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12120" PostId="8244" Text="These comments have been an interesting discussion in their own right!  Thanks all, opinions are good.  I identify with khedron above who often burst shoots 5 or 6 a time of the same thing and, if it's something moving, many of those will be out of focus." CreationDate="2011-02-13T05:22:39.680" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12121" PostId="8656" Score="1" Text="Added 'Trade for Print' as that's also a common definition of 'TFP' and it will add those keywords for people searching down the line..." CreationDate="2011-02-13T05:37:54.780" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12122" PostId="8670" Score="4" Text="Hi Rick! I wanted to point you to the FAQ here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq... In part it says: *&quot;If your motivation for asking the question is “I would like to participate in a discussion about ______”, then you should not be asking here. If your motivation is “I would like others to explain ______ to me”, then you are probably OK.&quot;* To me this question seems more like a 'lets discuss' type question to me than something 'legitimate,' so I'm going to be voting to close it..." CreationDate="2011-02-13T06:12:11.750" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12123" PostId="8550" Text="And don't be afraid to crop either. The T2i already has a crop factor of 1.6, making the 50mm lens the equivalent of an 80mm lens on a full-frame sensor camera. A 50% crop would be like having a 160mm f/1.8 lens on a full-frame 4.5Mp camera. 4.5 megapixels was an extreme pro resolution not so very long ago -- it's certainly adequate for an 8x12&quot; print viewed at arm's length, and with a decent upscaling algorithm to connect the dots, can be blown up to a reasonable poster." CreationDate="2011-02-13T07:38:36.103" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12124" PostId="8670" Text="@Jay, I actually read it as the latter. He explicitly asks for recommendations and reasons." CreationDate="2011-02-13T08:38:02.677" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12126" PostId="8670" Text="@Jay - 625 to go..." CreationDate="2011-02-13T08:43:47.867" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12127" PostId="8670" Score="2" Text="Then don't vote to close it. ;-) To me the question absolutely fit the definition of 'Not a Real Question,': It's difficult to tell what is being asked here. This question is ambiguous, vague, incomplete, **overly broad,** or rhetorical **and cannot be reasonably answered in its current form.**" CreationDate="2011-02-13T08:44:13.413" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12128" PostId="8630" Text="It's still CAPIC, but the official expanded version is now Canadian Association of Professional Image Creators (probably to include those who wish to be regarded as &quot;fine artists&quot; rather than illustrators)." CreationDate="2011-02-13T09:31:56.693" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12129" PostId="8648" Score="1" Text="While I'm not responsible for the down-vote I can guess at the reasons for it. First, you should not recommend a service you have not used. Second, you recommend freelance web portals but give no facts or justification to backup your recommendation." CreationDate="2011-02-13T09:58:52.557" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12130" PostId="8676" Text="What made you sure hes a canon user? :D" CreationDate="2011-02-13T10:07:24.823" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="12131" PostId="8648" Text="Thanks for your explanations, I understand." CreationDate="2011-02-13T10:28:18.733" UserId="3789" />
  <row Id="12132" PostId="913" Text="@chills42 The questioner has experience in using BW film plus a filter to shoot IR, which has the same caveats (long exposures are required) so the simple answer to his question is 'yes, on almost all digital cameras' " CreationDate="2011-02-13T10:34:27.493" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12133" PostId="894" Text="-1 IR with film you require a visible light blocking filter which is all you need for IR with an stock digicam. Film IR work is hardly &quot;accessible&quot; as it requires much more careful handling, processing, bracketing for exposure, guesswork in focusing. It's also very limited in what you can with colour, compared to channel swapping etc. in digital. Digital IR is no more expensive if you go the filter route, but if you do invest then you get a handholdable camera with which you can focus, and compose live, in the IR spectrum! If you were building a camera for IR you'd chose digital." CreationDate="2011-02-13T10:44:55.563" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12134" PostId="8670" Score="2" Text="I concur - there's no **right** answer, therefore it qualifies as &quot;Not a Real Question&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-13T11:14:24.130" UserId="3265" />
  <row Id="12135" PostId="8610" Text="Now, I just don't get that at all. I have itty-bitty hands (really, I feel inadequate sometimes shaking hands, and it's incredibly difficult to buy gloves) and I never feel comfortable without adding a vertical grip (or, in the old days, a motor drive/autowinder). Perhaps it's my pianistic finger-spread, but I just can't seem to get a decent purchase on tiny camerae. " CreationDate="2011-02-13T12:02:26.630" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12136" PostId="8667" Text="That is exactly what I was after. Thank you and thanks for the tips on usage. That should get me off to a great start" CreationDate="2011-02-13T12:16:25.973" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12137" PostId="8670" Text="There are two broad classes of program, those used primarily for editing photos, Photoshop and Gimp are examples; those used primarily for organising your photo collection, Picasa, Bibble and Lightroom are examples. Is your question targeted at one or both of these two classes? I think we do need to make the distinction." CreationDate="2011-02-13T12:24:33.437" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12138" PostId="8656" Score="1" Text="This is a dangerous practice in my opinion. Here's why: http://bit.ly/goyNpf" CreationDate="2011-02-13T17:25:00.957" UserId="3733" />
  <row Id="12139" PostId="8656" Text="@TMarshall haha at item #7 :)" CreationDate="2011-02-13T18:36:12.900" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12140" PostId="8599" Text="Oh yea certainly not as good as the 9000ED for 35mm or MF film, its only something to consider when doing 4x5 or 8x10 (the two reasons I got it)." CreationDate="2011-02-13T19:16:07.013" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12141" PostId="15" Score="4" Text="Sorry to say, every camera maker disagrees with you guys. Since they've invented RAW, I'm siding with them :) Plus, it makes it much easier to read when contrasting the two formats." CreationDate="2011-02-13T19:18:50.683" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12142" PostId="8678" Text="&quot;3:1 Rembrandt for guys, 2:1 butterfly for girls&quot; -- Those are lighting ratios?" CreationDate="2011-02-13T19:38:19.253" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12143" PostId="8662" Text="If you're willing to do a lot of post-processing work, you can also do an [exposure stack](http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/8092/378) of shorter frames. Increase your ISO, take shorter exposures without the tracking mount, and align/combine them afterwards." CreationDate="2011-02-13T19:47:28.237" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12144" PostId="8683" Text="Feature wise, I agree, anybody handy with the necessary materials should be able to do it but (and I fall into this trap often, handy as I am) is the 5+ hours of your time its going to take worth $200?  If you enjoy the effort though thats different.  Not to mention the fire hazard it will be if done wrong :)" CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:06:39.883" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12145" PostId="8678" Text="Indeed. I've been out of the game for quite a while now (professionally speaking), but those were the expected shots back in the day. With lighting more or less standard, a casting agent/director wouldn't have to guess at what the lighting might have been adding or hiding." CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:12:31.013" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12146" PostId="8681" Text="Apparently, you can [chain USB hubs](http://superuser.com/questions/64744/max-length-of-a-usb-cable/64747#64747) w/ 5 meter cables to get further." CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:14:26.740" UserId="576" />
  <row Id="12147" PostId="8595" Score="2" Text="@Designer023 Don't forget that an option that is completely silent will merrily back up corruptions too" CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:24:19.367" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12148" PostId="8683" Text="As they say, time is money -- and it is quite possible to have an abundance of the one and a paucity of the other. I'm (or, rather, I was) capable, but lazy -- I never built anything I could afford to buy. And yet, somehow, I built an awful lot of what was in my old studio..." CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:47:37.897" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12149" PostId="8683" Text="@Shizam: &quot;If you enjoy the effort though thats different.&quot; I think you've hit the nail on the head about me. I do enjoy the effort. I'll try not to burn down my studio, though. ;-) " CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:54:15.330" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12151" PostId="8671" Text="Why are we having all these down-votes on all the answers, without any explanation?" CreationDate="2011-02-13T21:06:57.810" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12152" PostId="8520" Text="I'd just like to add that *any* lens that will let you take a picture that you can't take now is an upgrade of sorts -- even if you're talking about something so horribly compromised that it turns your DSLR into a Lomo. Let the pictures you *can't* take but want to determine what you're going to buy -- there's no sense having the best, most suitable lens in the world for a picture you're never going to take." CreationDate="2011-02-13T21:10:21.363" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12153" PostId="8689" Text="I usually set my shutter speed at 1/1000, I end up with blown outs if I follow the sunny 16 rule for ISO 100 films for shots like these (1/100 shutter speed). Any recommended shutter speeds?" CreationDate="2011-02-13T21:40:33.993" UserId="2362" />
  <row Id="12154" PostId="8689" Text="and is it not that larger f numbers correspond to smaller apertures?" CreationDate="2011-02-13T21:45:33.487" UserId="2362" />
  <row Id="12155" PostId="8689" Text="Does your camera have a light meter, or do you have an external light meter? You shouldn't be choosing your shutter speed based on a suggestion on the internet, you should be choosing it based on the level of light you *actually have* at the time you're taking the pictures..." CreationDate="2011-02-13T21:46:16.403" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12156" PostId="8689" Text="I usually use the light meter (or exposure meter as I have termed it here, I have got to edit that). but like I said, if I aim for the center of the meter, I often end up with blown-up highlights XD" CreationDate="2011-02-13T21:49:16.057" UserId="2362" />
  <row Id="12157" PostId="8689" Text="Yes, larger numbers correspond to smaller apertures, but that will give you the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish -- everything will be more-or-less sharp with a small aperture. If you are shooting white or Asian people, do a spot meter of the mid skin tone (neither highlight nor shadow) and set the exposure for one stop overexposure of that point. In harsh light, highlights may blow out in printing on standard (#2) paper -- so lower the contrast grade (you can fiddle around quite a bit on VC paper)." CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:09:44.533" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12158" PostId="8689" Text="As you are working with people you can get up close to the brightest areas on your subject and take a close up meter reading from there. This will tell you the setting you need to correctly expose for that area - then you should meter the darkest area and come up with an exposure somewhere in the middle." CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:11:37.450" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12159" PostId="8691" Score="2" Text="+1 for 'having a solid understanding of the basics of exposure.' I'd give this more votes if I could..." CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:17:13.167" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12160" PostId="8691" Text="The heavy filters aroun't about getting a correct exposure -- they're about using the maximum aperture (for shallow depth of field) while corralling the shutter speed. &quot;Sunny 16&quot; is a bit optimistic in some environments (snow, lots of light concrete), so keeping the shutter speed lower than the camera's max (I don't know hat the EOS 50 is comfortable with) while keeping the lens wide open means something's gotta give, and the film version of changing the ISO setting without changing the film (if chromogenic, there's not much choice) is filtration." CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:21:17.717" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12161" PostId="8622" Text="I have a smaller Pelican case (similar to the Storm cases) that I've previously used for carrying gear while canoeing. I just don't like the idea of looking like I'm carrying camera gear - I'd prefer to be able to hide it in something normal looking." CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:51:10.537" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12162" PostId="8671" Text="@lubnut - cowards?" CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:55:38.230" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12163" PostId="8681" Score="1" Text="The hubs that are referred to in the above post are USB to ethernet converters. CAT5 Ethernet has a 100m maximum length." CreationDate="2011-02-13T22:56:54.180" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12164" PostId="8656" Text="@TMarshall - Brilliant post! I loved 7 and 12, 12 just about made me snort beer through my nose." CreationDate="2011-02-13T23:38:46.620" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12165" PostId="8686" Score="1" Text="+1 - Here's a good tutorial on it too: http://www.diyphotography.net/readers-projects-diy-spider-light-by-alex-campagna" CreationDate="2011-02-13T23:49:27.063" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12166" PostId="8693" Text="+1 - That &quot;barn door&quot; mount looks nice and easy.  Seems like it be fairly easy to rig a motor up to it as well.  Looks like some astrophotography will be my next endeavor after macro and timelapse!" CreationDate="2011-02-14T00:33:32.857" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12167" PostId="8694" Text="Just to be clear, here's what I've figured out on my own. First of all, get to eye level of the pet as much as possible. I'm sure a somewhat higher f/# would be required than photographing a human, due to longer nose/face ratios, longer bodies, etc. The environment should also be such that if the dog somehow runs away, it's not going to be a problem. Probably a somewhat telephototic lens will help to protect against the shyness of the dogs. Aside from that, well..." CreationDate="2011-02-14T00:40:46.847" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12168" PostId="8693" Score="1" Text="Here's plans for what claims to be only slightly more complex, but more accurate. http://www.garyseronik.com/?q=node/52" CreationDate="2011-02-14T00:53:11.977" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12169" PostId="8244" Text="I also shoot burst.  But it still doesn't matter, even if something is out of focus later you may actually prefer it for aesthetic reasons over the image that is more technically correct - for a better expression for example.  Don't short the future you by presuming you know what he or she likes." CreationDate="2011-02-14T02:57:23.167" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12170" PostId="8701" Text="Many programs are available to the beginner to handle basic RAW processing, even Picasa.  Photo management and processing is something to learn and not to put off until you have 10000 jpgs laying around that you don't know what to do with." CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:01:08.727" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12171" PostId="8703" Text="RE down the road. I recently inherited a bunch of my grandmother's old black and whites. If only I had RAW versions (ie negatives) of those shots." CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:23:47.013" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="12172" PostId="8695" Score="2" Text="Leashes work well on kids too!" CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:29:58.597" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12173" PostId="8705" Text="Sure, if I'm at the edge of the FM broadcast region, the AM station probably sounds better. I like to break analogies." CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:40:50.727" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12174" PostId="8696" Score="1" Text="This can be frustrating with some dogs, which see you squatting as an opportunity to come sniff your camera. Depth of field: gone." CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:43:27.243" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12175" PostId="8670" Text="Well what do ya know...a community closure!" CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:55:05.010" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12176" PostId="8699" Score="1" Text="I see you already got answers from RAW fanatics ;) but even some pros have reasons to shoot JPEG, just like some have reasons to shoot RAW. I don't think you're going to get any valid and relevant answers *to your situation* without doing your homework and figuring out which file format (and therefore workflow) to side with. See other questions on this site about RAW/JPEG to find out what the workflow implications are." CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:55:10.817" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12177" PostId="8699" Score="10" Text="I am also concerned that you are making a lead-in question when you say 'to retouch your photos yet'. The better you get, the more I expect you to NOT retouch your photos. At least that is what I expect of my photography students :)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:57:20.893" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12178" PostId="8690" Text="Just a note: This can work, however you generally need to point the lens strait up. If you are doing any shots that involve part of the landscape (which is often the case for artistic effect/composition), aligning this way is considerably more difficult. " CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:59:23.803" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12179" PostId="8690" Text="Very true, but since you're going to be messing with the pictures in Photoshop anyway, you could just make one particular shots landscape dominate on top." CreationDate="2011-02-14T04:01:31.817" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12180" PostId="2328" Text="Might want to add something about appropriate framing (to expand on the bit about orientation), something about appropriate lighting, and something about posing.  Might also think about amending the &quot;colors are correct&quot; point to allow for black+white, like &quot;colors, unless using black+white, are correct ...&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-14T04:12:29.607" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12181" PostId="8703" Score="2" Text="I can't stress @ahockley's last point enough. In the thread he linked, my original attempts at post-processing that photo of Yellowstone Lower Falls were pretty bad. I had only been a photographer for a few weeks at my first attempt. It was after some time that I came back and reworked it as an HDR image, once I had a better understanding of photography and how to post-process an image. Definitely shoot RAW...stuff you take today that you may think is unsalvageable crap may be a masterpiece down the road. ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T04:25:35.470" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12182" PostId="8705" Text="I'd abstain from RAW, err, FM too if tuning into a song on the FM-station costs me five minutes per song because my receiver is finicky (as is RAW per se). I like to put analogies into absurdistan." CreationDate="2011-02-14T04:40:53.593" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12183" PostId="8707" Score="9" Text="Actually, Photoshop, Lightroom, Picasa, and PaintShopPro are all examples of third party RAW converters... " CreationDate="2011-02-14T04:49:02.080" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12184" PostId="8703" Text="+1 on that last point. I have a couple images from my very early days with a borrowed digital camera trying to figure out if I should move off of film myself that I only have jpgs of, knowing what I know now I could salvage them in the digital darkroom if the were raws. The attempts I've made on the jpgs, are just disappointing." CreationDate="2011-02-14T05:46:17.957" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12185" PostId="8709" Text="Some of these things you mentioned I know I can do with my image editing software (eg. colour temp correction). Is there a good reason why I'd want to do this in my RAW converter?" CreationDate="2011-02-14T06:03:04.447" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12186" PostId="8708" Text="I'm a PSP user. I can open an image in the RAW converter and click &quot;Edit&quot; and I'm in PSP. Seems to me like a pretty straightforward workflow. How might Canon's DPP or PhaseOne enhance my workflow? It seems like anything I can do in a RAW converter I can do in PSP. (see comments on Leonidas's post)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T06:04:44.193" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12187" PostId="8708" Score="1" Text="Sure. But find a version of PSP from 5 years ago, and try to open up a raw file and see how well it does. My point is that, RAW converters have been around a lot longer than the ones that are integrated in PSP etc. Now a days, much of the functionality of a raw converter is duplicated in programs like PSP. That wasn't always the case." CreationDate="2011-02-14T06:20:18.990" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="12188" PostId="8709" Score="1" Text="The RAW file includes more information than a JPEG, so it's less prone to [posterization](http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/posterization.htm) when doing adjustments like color balance, exposure adjustments, etc." CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:18:00.557" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12189" PostId="8715" Score="1" Text="Thanks, Alan - I'm aware that converting from a lossy format to RAW defeats the purpose of RAW, which is why I'm attempting to convert directly from the scanner to RAW without any processing so I can attempt processing the image in LR." CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:21:12.197" UserId="2552" />
  <row Id="12190" PostId="8715" Score="1" Text="It's not that it defeats the purpose of raw, its that RAW is a sensor data dump. Some scanners let you save raw data dumps, but it's pretty rare. Most scanners just let you save the data as lossless TIF files, which while not as ideal, gets you closer to your goal." CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:29:31.317" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="12191" PostId="8716" Score="3" Text="i like this answer, i really need to just focus on learning the basics first, I have a D7000 so if i'm ever in an area that I cannot revisit easily (on a trip or something) I can shoot jpg + raw and backup the raws in case I want to revisit them later. I just picked up Aperture and am using the Preset adjustments at the moment if needed. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:40:54.957" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="12192" PostId="8699" Score="1" Text="@Itai, good point, i'll focus on that first =)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:55:27.670" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="12193" PostId="8704" Text="just went through a re-org'd last weeks stuff, think I got it now. thanks" CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:56:34.703" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="12194" PostId="8595" Text="Recently Thomas hawk went through the different options and blogged about dome of the results. I would look at his blog. I think he settled on crashplan. " CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:57:31.027" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12195" PostId="8694" Score="3" Text="Put strange misspelled captions on the photos... ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T07:59:24.223" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12196" PostId="8714" Score="4" Text="You might want to reword that slightly, as it *could* be misinterpreted." CreationDate="2011-02-14T08:06:48.427" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12197" PostId="8695" Score="4" Text="... and owners." CreationDate="2011-02-14T08:48:56.943" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12199" PostId="8699" Score="3" Text="@Itai - Do you honestly believe that you can get to a point where absolutely no retouching is needed? Does &quot;retouching&quot; also include changing the brightness and contrast? What about sharpening? What about some noise reductions? RAW files need to be developed, just like negative films need(ed) to be developed." CreationDate="2011-02-14T09:31:19.900" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="12200" PostId="8595" Text="@Rowland Shaw - You have a fair point, Ideally something like an online version of Time-machine would be ideal as I can roll back, and recover any corruption (hopefully), but as I am working with an aperture library, I have a feeling that it would have to back up the whole lib each time, which would be slow and fill up a whole drive quickly. @drewbenn's idea of just swapping external HDD's is probably going to be y solution for now." CreationDate="2011-02-14T09:35:09.513" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12201" PostId="8595" Text="I did just realise that although aperture's library is 120Gb, it is essentially a folder so changes would be just to the new/edited photo's inside and the library indexes etc so hopefully the backup would be smart enough" CreationDate="2011-02-14T09:41:37.993" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12202" PostId="8711" Text="When I started photography, you got about 25 shots from a film and couldn't preview them. 250 photo's would have blown my mind! Having a limited amount does focus your mind into taking the best shots and thinking before you go trigger happy." CreationDate="2011-02-14T09:59:35.723" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12203" PostId="8711" Text="Well even a thousand images can prove to be limited comparing to professionals who use multiple Sandisk Extreme Pro 32GB CF cards! Its true that lower number of photos helps you think better but at the same time it does not promote learn-through-practice or learn-by-making-mistakes which I think beginners need the most." CreationDate="2011-02-14T10:07:49.023" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="12204" PostId="8722" Score="5" Text="I'd suggest you find the film first, then a camera to use it. I know it has got nothing to do with your question, just felt like sharing." CreationDate="2011-02-14T10:11:43.883" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="12205" PostId="8716" Text="Damn, this is the answer I was planning to write ;) Oh, well, it's a +1 from me!" CreationDate="2011-02-14T10:58:38.323" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="12206" PostId="8709" Text="See point 4. As the raw data is mapped to another format, you will (with standard JPG being the other format) or might loose data already on this in-camera conversion. You'll have to decide if this additional data, that will be kept/made available differently by different software is worth the hassle with RAW. I'd say: seldom, but sometimes." CreationDate="2011-02-14T12:13:14.587" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12207" PostId="8699" Score="1" Text="If he uses the in-camera conversion (development), he can and will get to a point without retouching. For me the straightforward comparison of RAW with negative film is a fallacy (log to log-medium instead of unknown to unknown; application of techniques available to digital photo-editing only (who sharpened his pictures? who reduced film-grain? how many really changed (!) paper to correct contrast in-process). If you are true to the words of the RAW-lovers, a slide of film is developed already and lost: how could one ever use it." CreationDate="2011-02-14T12:18:59.897" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12208" PostId="8716" Text="Love the answer. Everybody to his taste and don't lose the focus on photography." CreationDate="2011-02-14T12:23:05.213" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12209" PostId="2328" Text="@thomasrutter - feel free to edit my answer :)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T13:13:22.817" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="12210" PostId="8695" Text="Great set list ! Don't forget the point of view. I think it's very important." CreationDate="2011-02-14T13:19:42.600" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12211" PostId="8612" Text="The 'penny wise and pound foolish' comment made me think. I'd easily spend as much money on a card reader or some other gadget to test this, but when memory cards are as cheap as they are there is really no need to fret over it.  I'm not going to toss it, but grab a new one and verify that the issue disappears. If it does I'll toss the card.  If it doesn't it may be that my camera will be off to Nikon for service.  Thanks for enlightening me!" CreationDate="2011-02-14T13:32:01.717" UserId="3805" />
  <row Id="12212" PostId="8663" Text="Yes stacking for astro photography is what I was wanting it for. I will try to make things clearer with my next post" CreationDate="2011-02-14T13:45:28.300" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12213" PostId="8699" Text="@Kristof - Yes. Feel free to browse my gallery http://www.neoluminance.com : Only 6 images are not straight out (except scaling down for web, of course): 4 are stitched panos. 1 is cropped (shot from a moving vehicle) and 1 rotated by 0.5 degrees (didn't use a level). The printing process should take care of any *conversion* needed. Things like sharpening should never be done without regards to display medium, so don't sharpen for sharpening's sake." CreationDate="2011-02-14T14:02:53.357" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12214" PostId="1648" Text="Note that on many sites you cannot reach the original file unless you have some membership status or connection to the user which uploaded it. So you may only be able to download a scaled down version which most often has EXIF striped. Upload tools sometimes do that too, sending the file with only copyright information. Subnote: Facebook strips all of it, even copyright from EXIF and has gotten a lot of heat from photographers for that." CreationDate="2011-02-14T14:10:16.983" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12215" PostId="8641" Score="1" Text="@ahockley: I have only questions, not answers..." CreationDate="2011-02-14T14:19:25.793" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="12216" PostId="8704" Score="3" Text="Here's a good link which goes into more detail for what Shizam said, and explains why there are two types of folders:  http://speirs.org/blog/2008/1/8/organising-projects-and-folders-in-aperture.html" CreationDate="2011-02-14T15:22:02.273" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="12217" PostId="8716" Text="The other downsides to RAW are the storage space used and the slower speed. (fewer FPS/shorter burst). " CreationDate="2011-02-14T15:24:22.350" UserId="276" />
  <row Id="12218" PostId="8732" Score="1" Text="There is another very similar question, is your question answered there?: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2624/what-are-color-profiles-and-where-would-i-find-information-on-using-them-properly" CreationDate="2011-02-14T15:28:32.160" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12219" PostId="8722" Text="I thought that The Impossible Project already sells its own films?" CreationDate="2011-02-14T16:11:00.530" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12220" PostId="8735" Score="1" Text="Holy guacamole! I have no what is trying to be asked here." CreationDate="2011-02-14T16:50:26.177" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12221" PostId="8699" Text="@Itai - Really? Are you shooting raw, and intentionally removing all possible conversion adjustments when converting to JPEG? If not, all your photo's have adjustments applied (i.e. white balance, tone curves, camera noise reduction, sharpening, etc.). Just because you didn't do it doesn't mean that it didn't take place. I'm not arguing for or against raw. If camera JPEG works for you, then shooting it will save you a lot of time and storage space. Just don't delude yourself into thinking JPEG is somehow fundamentally different or more pure or than a manual conversion process, it's not." CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:05:21.547" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="12222" PostId="8732" Score="1" Text="I'd agree that @jrista's already got an impressively thorough answer on @chills42's cited question..." CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:20:15.407" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12223" PostId="8699" Text="@Benjamin Whoa, that kinda seems like a 'bristly' response to @Itai, doesn't it? I don't really see any sort of sweeping 'RAW is bad, only shoot JPEG' statements in his comment... Only a suggestion that the OP do his homework and evaluate fully the benefits and drawbacks of *both* RAW and JPEG before deciding for himself on which one to shoot... Just seems like this comment thread has the potential to turn into Yet Another RAW vs JPEG Holy War debate and nobody wants *that*... Can't we all just get along? ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:29:29.513" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12224" PostId="8735" Score="3" Text="Major grammar reconstruction from @chills42 and myself. Maybe it's a clearer question now?" CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:31:08.997" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12225" PostId="8699" Text="@Jay - I apologize. I probably misread Itai's intention in his response to Kristof. I have nothing against in camera JPEG conversion all (I shoot JPEG sometimes). There are many very good reasons for shooting JPEG. I just don't understand how shooting raw and converting to JPEG yourself is considered &quot;retouching&quot; but letting the camera apply the adjustments is not (i.e. the context of the discussion was in terms of retouching vs. being a good photographer). They are the same end to end process, it's just that the JPEG conversion is done in automatically in one case and manually in the other." CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:44:16.957" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="12226" PostId="8699" Text="@Itai, @Jay - Okay, I reread the initial comments by Itai, and I did misread what was being said.  I'll again apologize to Itai.  The initial comment in regards to &quot;retouching&quot; was a protest using the terminology of &quot;retouching&quot; in context of shooting raw, when in fact, one shouldn't think of raw as an excuse to take bad photos." CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:52:27.370" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="12227" PostId="8699" Text="@Jay - Thanks! I was replying to @Kristof who asked if it is possible to not retouch anything. I'm showing it is. Of course an image is always produced from RAW data but where it happens has workflow implications. My original intention is to show the OP that it is not a given that he will eventually adopt RAW." CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:57:32.100" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12228" PostId="8699" Text="@Benjamin - Apology accepted :)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:59:29.507" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12229" PostId="8699" Text="@Benjamin: No worries. Just seemed like the conversation was heading down the path from discussion to argument (due to no one particular person, simply as is often the nature of these sorts of things). :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T18:03:53.743" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12230" PostId="8699" Score="3" Text="Regardless of where we fall on the RAW &lt;--&gt; JPEG spectrum with our photography, I think we can *all* agree that using RAW as a crutch to take poor pictures because &quot;I can just fix it in post&quot; is a bad practice..." CreationDate="2011-02-14T18:06:22.727" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12231" PostId="8740" Score="5" Text="@kang seems to be using a single folder for *exporting for stock*, not everyday usage. It sounds as if the non-final images are normally in separate folders." CreationDate="2011-02-14T18:16:16.460" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12232" PostId="8718" Score="1" Text="Accepted as it answered my question. But, kudos to @Itai - answered a question or two I hadn't yet thought of." CreationDate="2011-02-14T18:35:14.183" UserId="2552" />
  <row Id="12233" PostId="8705" Text="These analogies will grow on you like you're room-temperature Canadian beef and the analogy is a colony of E. Coli. I like to meta my analogies into abstraction. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T18:56:48.050" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12234" PostId="8716" Text="@Jon: If you are ever in a situation where you don't want to miss the shot, go ahead and set the camera to PAE, or Greenbox. That is basically &quot;fool proof mode&quot; which lets the camera do most of the work. It wont help in a complex lit scene, but for average scenes it does the job. To me, having that fool-proof setting relieves the pressure of having to nail the exposure. It's just something you know in the back of your mind that if you have too, you can fall back on. " CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:05:34.697" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="12235" PostId="8721" Text="I look at my photos through a magnifying glass. It's actually one of the cooler aspects of photography to me to see details resolved down to sub-millimeter. I feel that if a photograph can't deal with close inspection, that it is missing a huge aspect." CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:15:36.437" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="12236" PostId="8664" Text="+1 though I'm not sure 'Workers' or 'The Americans', while seminal works, might fit the coffee-table light chitchat bill. Depends on your friends I guess ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:18:41.767" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="12237" PostId="8718" Score="1" Text="&quot;It's really a TIFF file that is saved with minimal changes from the raw sensor data&quot; - oddly enough, that's the same as (almost all) camera raw files - TIFF is actually a pretty crazy format that allows you to throw arbitray things into the file, so most &quot;raw&quot; (.nef, .cr2, etc.) are actually based on TIFF. Because the Camera uses a bayer filtered sensor, and camera manufacturers like to make things harder for others to access as a way to sell their own software, it's not as easy to open a raw file as a normal tiff." CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:34:30.453" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="12238" PostId="8617" Text="There's quite a difference in reliability between a good online service like S3 and an external drive in a friends house." CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:40:35.033" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="12239" PostId="8617" Score="1" Text="For uploading, Amazon offers a service where you mail them a drive and they load it into S3. It's described here: http://aws.amazon.com/importexport/" CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:42:26.450" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="12240" PostId="8738" Text="+1 for your second suggestion and for mentioning Lightroom's renaming capabilities.  My variation is that I import into folders by year, month, then event (or location), and finally index.  So I might have 2011-02-CastleHill-0001.dng" CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:42:41.677" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="12241" PostId="8736" Score="2" Text="If you have/use Lightroom, you can do batch renames of your images along the lines of the suggestions in the answers below.  Select the images you want to rename and hit F2, and you can build up a naming strategy using the custom presets and options in the dialog that appears." CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:44:55.907" UserId="1124" />
  <row Id="12242" PostId="8723" Text="This is called &quot;time-lapse&quot;, btw, which may help you in your search" CreationDate="2011-02-14T20:13:46.097" UserId="380" />
  <row Id="12243" PostId="8696" Text="True. But it give so much meaning to the personality. In my opinion, the point of view have a huge effect on how you see a subject. " CreationDate="2011-02-14T20:23:24.167" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12244" PostId="8591" Text="+1 I've used it, good results, doesn't integrate very well with Aperture though, which I use as a library." CreationDate="2011-02-14T20:26:26.260" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="12245" PostId="8739" Text="The Canon EOS 550D (t2i) or the Canon EOS 600D (T3i) are able to shoot full HD video at 24 fps too..." CreationDate="2011-02-14T20:31:39.563" UserId="332" />
  <row Id="12246" PostId="8694" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1383/how-to-take-pictures-of-pets-in-a-high-distraction-environment" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:03:57.090" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="12247" PostId="8625" Text="I think those could all have been one answer." CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:09:13.483" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="12248" PostId="8750" Text="Your link doesn't work. But I'm seeing that Amazon themselves are actually out of stock, and are returning availability from a few third-party merchants." CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:26:40.240" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12249" PostId="8750" Text="Fixed the link - and yes it's through a third party but I'd say if you can find one on Amazon, it's not that rare." CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:40:55.400" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12250" PostId="8625" Text="Of course they *could* have. But the point in making them separate answers is (at least in part) so that others can add information about an individual organization in the comments if they feel a need to add extra detail, or start a discussion about a particular organization via the comments should they desire to. The question is Community Wiki so it's not like anyone gets any rep for answering, if that's what you're concerned about..." CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:41:03.200" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12251" PostId="8694" Text="@DJClayworth: I read the question to that before I asked my question, but I started reading some of the answers, and realized that it contains some good stuff." CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:57:22.647" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12253" PostId="8750" Text="But if it's out of stock at B&amp;H, Adorama, and Amazon (&quot;proper&quot;), I think it's a pretty good sign that overall supply is pretty low. The third party prices that are available all have about a 20% price premium." CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:00:56.253" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12254" PostId="8750" Text="Oh, hey, please remove your Amazon referrer tag. Not okay, as you brought up youself on meta! http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/661/" CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:01:52.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12255" PostId="8735" Text="Am I mistaken in thinking the 5D does not have any video recording capabilities? The word &quot;better&quot; in the title seems to imply the 5D is already being used for video though?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:04:49.583" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="12256" PostId="8687" Text="Apparently you can daisy chain up to (but no more than) 5 USB hubs like this. This Windows KB article (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/226308) indicates neither Windows nor the USB standard support more than 5 daisy chained together." CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:09:30.637" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="12257" PostId="8681" Score="1" Text="@Mike, you're looking at the other answer on that question, not the one hyperslug linked to. And *ehternet* over cat 5 has a 100m limit, but usb over cat 5 has a much shorter limit, generally around 66m. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:14:17.340" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12258" PostId="8687" Text="Yeah, if you could get around the power issue with the repeater cables, you'd hit the tree depth issue next. Yet another reason to go with USB over cat5/5e/6." CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:18:37.193" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12259" PostId="938" Text="For anyone interested, from [tdp](http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/canon-ef-50mm-f-1.8-ii-lens-review.aspx): `With a minimum focus distance of 1.5' (.45m), the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Lens delivers a rather low native maximum magnification of .15x. Adding extension tubes take maximum magnification to .39x and .68x for 12mm and 25mm tubes respectively.`" CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:25:42.430" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12260" PostId="8741" Score="1" Text="CMOS based cameras will have a rolling shutter effect.  CCD based cameras (other than pro cameras with 3 CCDs) will produce a [vertical smear](http://dvxuser.com/jason/CMOS-CCD/CCD-smear.JPG) effect on highlights.  In my opinion the vertical smear is worse - go the CMOS and just have a wide shutter angle (1/60s shutter) in my opinion." CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:35:47.697" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12261" PostId="8721" Text="I didn't mean to say sloppy photos are ok, I'm really fascinated by detail myself. But I'm also sure there's much more than this to photography, it can communicate at different rational and emotional levels, and that's the reason almost every person in the world is attracted by a beautiful shot. Otherwise people wouldn't care about photos and leave it to a few neurotic individuals dissecting 8x10inches b&amp;w negatives in their impenetrable high towers." CreationDate="2011-02-15T01:00:25.647" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="12262" PostId="8757" Text="If it's just sitting in the house, I even leave the camera 'on' and let it go into standby on a timer. One less step since it wakes up as soon as I hit the shutter button. Been doing this for almost 3 years rotating between 2 batteries and haven't noticed any battery life issues." CreationDate="2011-02-15T01:05:29.133" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="12263" PostId="8739" Text="Cheers, updated." CreationDate="2011-02-15T01:20:10.913" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12264" PostId="8768" Score="5" Text="The explanation: a difference of one f-stop means that the diameter of the aperture of the lens has been changed by a factor of the square root of two. Since the amount of light passing through the aperture is determined by the *area* of the aperture, and the area of the aperture is proportional to the *square* of its diameter, a one-stop change doubles (or halves) the area, letting in either twice or half the amount of light." CreationDate="2011-02-15T01:49:54.770" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12265" PostId="8756" Score="1" Text="Somewhat related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1765/how-should-a-dslr-camera-lens-and-battery-be-stored" CreationDate="2011-02-15T02:07:04.823" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="12266" PostId="8767" Score="1" Text="Isn't this really just an oddly-worded duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/49/ ?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T02:36:33.003" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12267" PostId="8767" Score="2" Text="Or http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/594/" CreationDate="2011-02-15T02:37:06.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12271" PostId="8767" Score="4" Text="I'd tend to think that at the very least it's a 'subset' question of the two questions you cited... Having the understanding of f-stop that either of those questions and answers would convey would make this question unnecessary... " CreationDate="2011-02-15T03:03:11.623" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12273" PostId="8732" Text="@chills42 @Jay Lance Photography: Yup that's the one I'm looking for. Couldn't find in my search. Thanks guys. Will delete this question ASAP." CreationDate="2011-02-15T03:20:08.843" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="12275" PostId="8750" Text="Gah, whoops.  I'm so used to just grabbing the shortened URL that I forgot about the no-affiliate rule here.  Thanks for pointing that out Matt." CreationDate="2011-02-15T03:45:00.340" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12276" PostId="8740" Text="@chills - Yes, but since the OP suggested to use folders himself, I assumed this was a possibility for stock as well, perhaps with a common root as I suggested." CreationDate="2011-02-15T03:45:53.130" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12277" PostId="8757" Text="+1 I agree, my K20D is showing full charge 3 months after I stopped using it in favour of my K-5." CreationDate="2011-02-15T03:46:38.343" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12278" PostId="8673" Text="I don't like when people down vote but never explain why :(" CreationDate="2011-02-15T04:27:49.253" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="12279" PostId="8770" Text="The Nikon is more convenient for lens reasons. I picked one up for cheap off craigslist." CreationDate="2011-02-15T04:53:34.287" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="12280" PostId="8728" Text="Hi. I've just added an update in the main question above. If you have any questions/suggestions I'd love to hear them. -Matt" CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:16:38.857" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12281" PostId="8750" Text="The difference between f/1.8 and f/1.4 isn't a stop, it's 2/3 stop." CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:40:07.180" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="12282" PostId="8770" Text="Fair enough, enjoy the IR work!  It's pretty interesting stuff, in line with B&amp;W in how you have to anticipate the conditions around you to think how a photo will turn out...  Also I'd advise at least at first trying a gel holder in a Cokin-P filter holder, much cheaper than traditional IR filters and you can try a few different gels to see what level of IR blocking suits you." CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:40:30.817" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12283" PostId="52" Text="And a lot of cameras actually record 14-bits per channel (my 50D does for example), in which case it's theoretically possible to store 14 stops of information, though the sensor is likely a few stops less sensitive." CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:50:24.300" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12284" PostId="8740" Score="2" Text="The problem with this is there is still no unique naming scheme for the images. If multiple images with the same name are supplied to a customer, and they want one of them, there is going to be confusion. The files would have to renamed or stored in nested folders, which makes a mess of creating web pages or flash displays or passing those folders to the customer for any purpose. Renaming them on import into a unique name helps greatly, especially if the image is named by a date/timestamp. I've done that for years, and can identify an image's event by the filename, without dupes. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:53:58.460" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="12285" PostId="8780" Score="4" Text="Oh... and can anyone else not get Metallica out of their head?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T06:17:16.930" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="12286" PostId="8717" Text="Thanks for your answer. Added an example." CreationDate="2011-02-15T06:54:09.820" UserId="3852" />
  <row Id="12287" PostId="8767" Score="3" Text="I've moved &quot;True or False&quot; to the title, to prevent someone from reading the title (which is false) and accepting it as fact." CreationDate="2011-02-15T07:12:13.840" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12288" PostId="8780" Score="5" Text="My bigger concern is that, as a left hander, I find it irritating that an SLR can only be used in a right handed stance. It is nearly as bad as trying to shoot left handed with a bolt action rifle." CreationDate="2011-02-15T07:23:28.973" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12289" PostId="8761" Text="One compact camera that I own will drain the batteries in about 6 weeks even when left switched off. So yes, it does happen." CreationDate="2011-02-15T07:32:01.443" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12290" PostId="8783" Score="1" Text="Note that competition shooters usually use an occluded lens on the disengaged eye of their shooting glasses. And some time after I joined the military, standard marksmanship instructions were modified to include the phrase &quot;close the disengaged eye&quot; -- at about the time that optical (rather than open iron) sights became the norm. The practicality of two-eyed shooting depends a lot on the magnification factor of the whole viewfinding apparatus (objective lens and viewfinder lens) -- if it's either a good match for reality or a really bad match, it's easy. Close but no cigar is disorienting." CreationDate="2011-02-15T08:10:30.083" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12291" PostId="8783" Score="1" Text="This is one ability that I brought from target shooting too photography. Another useful one is the ability to hold the camera really really still. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T08:16:29.993" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="12292" PostId="8762" Text="A printer built into a digital camera is an interesting idea. I can imagine scenarios where the ability to quickly produce prints at a remote location would be a big advantage." CreationDate="2011-02-15T08:20:56.130" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12293" PostId="1503" Text="i updated my answer" CreationDate="2011-02-15T08:50:58.183" UserId="3866" />
  <row Id="12295" PostId="8768" Score="1" Text="Quite. We are really interested in the _area_ of the aperture opening, but the f-stop describes the _diameter_. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:52:24.440" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12296" PostId="8778" Score="3" Text="It does have the '*' button though, doesn't it? This is the one that used to be mapped to AF before the dedicated AF button next to it was introduced on more recent Canon DSLR models." CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:54:26.653" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12297" PostId="8787" Score="2" Text="From the image I think it could well be dust. Only if it resists removal by blowing and/or a static brush, such as the Arctic Butterfly, would I classify it as something else. The escalation process would be 1) blow, if that fails -&gt; 2) brush, if that fails -&gt; 3) wet removal process. The sensor cleaning program is not guaranteed to remove dust." CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:57:59.940" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12298" PostId="8676" Text="Other questions asking about lenses for 60D." CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:58:59.233" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12299" PostId="8673" Text="I was just thinking that also." CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:59:30.153" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12300" PostId="8780" Text="I've always shot both eyes open. The reason is, though, that I find it quite difficult to close only my right eye and impossible to close my left; and I usually shoot with my right eye on the viewfinder. I just don't know what muscles to use (it's a weird feeling, believe me)." CreationDate="2011-02-15T10:00:35.197" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="12302" PostId="8783" Score="1" Text="I've heard the same reasoning in the army and if someone couldn't shoot both eyes open they made an eyepatch out of cardboard to be tuck under the helmet. The most stressed reason, though, was to allow both eyes *breathe* and let the air flow. Hence the eyepatch: vision could be blocked, but still the air could flow." CreationDate="2011-02-15T10:08:16.110" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="12303" PostId="8778" Text="Yeah you can use the &quot;*&quot; button for back button AF with the BG-E2n, and all other Canon battery grips." CreationDate="2011-02-15T10:15:39.130" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12304" PostId="8772" Text="the separation is especially useful when using a tripod and there may be some adjustments to be made between AF and composing the shot" CreationDate="2011-02-15T10:36:27.520" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="12305" PostId="8427" Text="I would second the Nikkor 50mm f1.8. It is an brilliant lens. The Bokeh that it produces can be quite beautiful. This is a photo I took with it. You can see what effect it can have http://www.flickr.com/photos/carlosthedesigner/5357638969/" CreationDate="2011-02-15T11:40:45.647" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12306" PostId="8796" Score="1" Text="Is it a lot harder to do it with a shorter lens. The longest lens I have is a 105mm" CreationDate="2011-02-15T11:57:04.847" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12307" PostId="8780" Text="Learn to shoot with bow and arrows, there you need to have both eyes open too (short answer: you still have your 3D-view, which helps). (Fortunately I'm left-eyed although I'm left-handed.)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:08:09.280" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12308" PostId="8796" Text="In that case you can still stand further away and crop your images. If you have space a telephoto almost always makes panning easier as it smoothes out the subject motion. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:11:50.277" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12309" PostId="8793" Score="5" Text="It's hard to say without context, it could mean a number of things, e.g. the actual digital value that represents the brightness of a grey pixel in an image, or the brightness a colour pixel would have if represented as a grey tone etc. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:17:12.893" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12310" PostId="8782" Score="2" Text="Wow, that is an interesting concept, I'm going to give that a go." CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:23:55.083" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12311" PostId="8797" Text="good comment on the background - this applies when photographing anything really but especially when taking moving objects" CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:34:43.567" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12312" PostId="8796" Text="Excellent tips. I will try them out asap, and see if I can get hold of a telephoto lens" CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:36:10.023" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12313" PostId="8797" Text="Great tips, I would have thought that having busier background would have given more things to give the blurred effect! That would have been my first mistake. I will try with 1/125 on some cars on the roads by me and hope for the best." CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:39:08.630" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12314" PostId="8798" Text="Wow thanks, excellent advice. Does the same issue as the propellers also occur with things like bike wheels? Do you keep the other eye open while you pan or will that confuse things?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:42:13.337" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12315" PostId="8796" Score="2" Text="It's a lot like golf -- the swing is all in the hips, and follow-through is critical. (It's not that follow-through -- continued motion after the deed is done -- actually affects the picture, but that it helps to ensure that you don't stop moving in the right arc too soon.)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:42:27.753" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12316" PostId="8798" Text="Yeh, too fast a shutter speed will freeze the bike wheels making the bike look like it is standing still with a photoshopped in blurred background. I shoot with both eyes open so I can see what other aircraft are doing for formation cross overs or getting multiple aircraft in the same frame." CreationDate="2011-02-15T12:43:48.437" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12317" PostId="8796" Score="1" Text="The optimal lens length very much depends on the speed of the object. I was able to get some great panning shots of a bicycle, using a 50mm, but bikes don't go all that quickly, so..." CreationDate="2011-02-15T13:00:24.330" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12318" PostId="7114" Score="1" Text="+1 for &quot;ask a lawyer&quot;, especially.  The answer will depend on a number of factors, including where you are when you take the photo, where in the world the building is, how you're using the image, where in the world you're using the image, etc.  It would take a lawyer from your area who is experienced specifically in trademark law as relates to photography to really get a solid answer, and I'm guessing even then there will be lots of nuance.  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T13:54:24.683" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12319" PostId="8750" Text="Almost three quarters of a stop. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T13:54:27.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12320" PostId="7138" Text="Yes, Dan Heller's article is a good one, which I've read in the past.  In particular, I note the phrase: &quot;Remember to avoid mixing your notions of trademarks and copyrights.&quot;  The way this question was asked gives no indication of confusing the two, but people often do, so just be careful that you're not.  :)  (They are *very* different in a number of important ways, such as rules about protecting against infringement, and when one can do that effectively -- trademark holders must be much more diligent, is my understanding.  I am not a lawyer.  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:02:16.453" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12321" PostId="8796" Text="@Stan Rogers Good analogy, that makes a lot of sense. I will just have to practice my swing! @Pearsonartphoto is there anywhere that I could find a graph or something of the optimal speeds/lens ratio?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:06:37.727" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12322" PostId="8753" Text="Thanks for the great answer." CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:09:24.417" UserId="1031" />
  <row Id="12323" PostId="8793" Text="Clarify the question - give us a context- grey level value of What?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:25:12.477" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12324" PostId="8716" Text="Thanks. I'm starting on photography myself and had this very same question to ask. I'll stick to this answer, for now :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:40:37.430" UserId="323" />
  <row Id="12326" PostId="8805" Score="2" Text="Hmmmm. I think that in order for the answer to make any sense, you have to define what you mean by &quot;image quality&quot;, which, on its face, would be synonymous with the term &quot;quality of the image&quot;, which you set it in opposition to." CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:59:06.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12327" PostId="8796" Text="Very nice photo Matt! I've seen many people teaching panning that do not manage to get their subject sharp which always put me off from this type of shooting. Guess I should buy a long lens again ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:00:08.563" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12328" PostId="8750" Text="I just bought one from Best Buy last week (only retailer I could find that had them in stock and wasn't selling them with a ~20% premium), but it looks like there backordered there now too. :(" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:07:54.120" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="12329" PostId="8805" Text="When referenced Image quality mostly refers to the technical aspects of the image quality (detail resolution, chromatic aberration etc) whereas the quality of the image would refer to whether the image is any good / is sharp / is well exposed." CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:16:24.177" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12330" PostId="8808" Score="5" Text="Even on a wobbly tripod your IS should be off (unless the lens is capable of detecting it is tripod mounted) as the bracing of the camera body against a (mostly) solid object can cause a vibration feedback loop (this is usually mentioned in instruction manuals although I guess the effect would be less pronounced with 'in body' stablisation as the vibrations occur closer to the secured mass)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:19:16.887" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12331" PostId="8808" Score="1" Text="Speaking of Pentax and a tripod: If you use a self-timer or remote (as you should in those situations), Pentax DSLRs automatically disengage stabilization and enable mirror lock-up for you. It's one of the details I enjoy which speeds things up automatically." CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:20:47.010" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12332" PostId="8801" Text="Thanks, but I just need a lens - only just got my D5000 and can't justify getting a whole new system." CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:51:09.900" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="12333" PostId="8780" Score="6" Text="Voting to migrate to firearms.stackexchange.com" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:55:14.577" UserId="1413" />
  <row Id="12334" PostId="8666" Text="When you put it like that it seems to make much more sense. Not having a PC and not wanting to setup a dual boot on my macbook, can I use a virtualPC with not too much trouble, or is it too processer intensive?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T15:58:30.597" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12335" PostId="8666" Score="1" Text="@Designer023: I've never tried to run it under a VM, so I can't say much about how well it'll work that way. It's pretty processor intensive, so I would expect it to be on the slow side. At the same time, it's sufficiently automated that in most cases you can load the images you want to stack, click on &quot;all methods&quot; and just go do something else for a few minutes while it does its thing." CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:12:46.943" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="12336" PostId="8803" Score="2" Text="+1 - Good question.  It looks like opinions vary, so far.  I'd be interested to know if / how much this varies from implementation to implementation (ie, how much is one implementation affected versus another)." CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:15:07.820" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="12337" PostId="6048" Text="Some computer cases have USB ports on the front and other ones on the back. Whichever side failed, try the other side. Sometimes devices can be strangely sensitive to this, for reasons I cannot explain." CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:23:09.590" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="12338" PostId="8666" Text="I will try and dig out my old copy of XP and give it a go. I would imagine that it won;t be too much of a strain on VM" CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:33:17.230" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12339" PostId="8753" Text="i just picked one up from my local camera shop last weekend, there were 2 avail, the guy said they are popular. call around your local shops, maybe reserve one from them." CreationDate="2011-02-15T16:36:38.847" UserId="3165" />
  <row Id="12340" PostId="8563" Text="Looks like the Nikon adapter that Lensbaby sells would be the best option in terms of price ($2k for a lens, Nikon, really? Unbelievable!). Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:09:31.623" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="12341" PostId="8811" Text="Ah ok, well that sounds like a lot of work. I do want to try to create the grain etc too so I get a realistic film effect. Is there anywhere that would likely have the color curves, perhaps research papers?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:31:14.340" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12342" PostId="8563" Text="Tilt-shift is a very hard thing to do right, it doesn't surprise me that it's that expensive... It's about the same on Canon's side. Lensbaby is a good alternative for people who just want to play around with it, but you did ask what the best option was;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:45:49.283" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12343" PostId="8797" Text="You need to have a much slower shutter speed to really blur backgrounds." CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:47:17.987" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12344" PostId="8663" Text="I posted a script for GIMP at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8092/how-can-i-simulate-a-long-exposure-photo-using-a-set-of-shorter-exposure-photos that *might* help you.  Also, the asker of that question has recently asked some other astrophotography-related questions, so you might check out some of his other questions." CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:50:18.547" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12345" PostId="1736" Text="This really depends on what country you're in." CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:55:01.627" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="12346" PostId="8814" Score="1" Text="Been Wikified..." CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:58:50.897" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12347" PostId="8814" Score="1" Text="This is really really really on the edge of what I'd consider a valid question - as your example was little more than what product wipes off black plastic well and it happened to then be used in a photograph." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:01:12.167" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12348" PostId="8499" Score="1" Text="As Nick Bedford says, beware of Ken Rockwell. Sometimes he gives serious advice, but usually he just writes whatever comes into his head. And he makes no effort to distinguish the two. For awhile, the &quot;about&quot; page on his site claimed that the _whole thing_ was a joke; he seems to have softened that, but the disclaimer still largely should be applied." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:08:40.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12349" PostId="8816" Text="Cheers, sounds like I just need to get better at using Hugin then. Your third paragraph has been what I've been doing with variable results." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:10:29.857" UserId="3890" />
  <row Id="12350" PostId="8808" Text="Itai -- on my Pentax SLR (a K-7), the SR indicator is the little hand symbol, not the green hex, which is just for focus confirmation. I've rolled back your edit...." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:15:27.063" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12351" PostId="6048" Score="1" Text="@Oddthinking: it may be that there's bad internal cabling, or the ports are actually bad. Or it may be that the ports are on a shared bus and other devices are interfering." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:17:31.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12352" PostId="8805" Text="Sharpness is usually considered to be a technical aspect of image quality...." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:26:40.777" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12353" PostId="8511" Text="It's a great lens for the price, but it isn't a stellar performer wide-open. Some people may move on to more expensive lenses." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:28:00.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12354" PostId="8815" Text="Someone already answered your actual question in the negative, so the next step would be to get better software. I know some people who have produced wonderful images from Hugin but it is a tedious process using a poor interface that I am happy to avoid. I use MS ICE (free), AutoStitch (free) and Auto Pano (Paid version of Autostitch) with great success. The beauty of these is that the process is automatic. In the case of AutoPano you do not even have to tell it which images are part of a panorama, show it a directory and it will detect  and assemble the right images!" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:33:01.440" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12355" PostId="8815" Score="1" Text="Hugin is a visual processing nightmare for me and my brain so thank you very much for the recommendations. Wonderful, that seems like a great way to go. I'll try it out." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:42:16.927" UserId="3890" />
  <row Id="12356" PostId="8805" Text="In this case by &quot;is sharp&quot; I mean, has been taken correctly by the user (quality of the image ie &quot;is it a good image?&quot;), rather than the sharpness the equipment is capable of delivering &quot;what is the image quality produce by the equipment combination?&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:46:45.083" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12357" PostId="8818" Text="How would you define it isn't needed?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:48:53.770" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12358" PostId="8814" Score="3" Text="it might not be the best example to get rolling with, I'll agree with that. But I'm hoping folks out there have better ideas. If not, I'll be the first to hit the delete link. (unless enough of you vote close before then. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:50:40.400" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12359" PostId="8819" Text="The D7000 should be able to trigger the SB600.  Could you post the details of how you have the SB600 configured?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:02:07.457" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12360" PostId="8811" Score="1" Text="There's third party plugins for Photoshop that will do what you are looking for.  Check out this one: http://www.alienskin.com/exposure/index.aspx" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:07:48.633" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="12361" PostId="8819" Text="built-in flash set to CMD, built in set to -- value and then group A/B at 0, channel set to 1.   SB600 set to channel 1 group A and in remote mode." CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:19:40.023" UserId="3892" />
  <row Id="12362" PostId="8818" Text="@JamWheel - I suppose the rest of the article goes on to talk about more specifically when it is and isn't needed. Shutter speed, surrounding environment, and the subject all factor into this decision." CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:26:28.010" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="12363" PostId="8741" Text="Thanks for introducing me to the concept of [shutter angle](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_disc_shutter)!" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:49:44.777" UserId="123" />
  <row Id="12364" PostId="8815" Score="1" Text="Hugin is as straightforward as the other tools, it just has a lot of bells and whistles to influence whatever you want. If you don't need this, go to the first tab &quot;Assistant&quot; and let yourself be guided." CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:26:02.823" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12365" PostId="8809" Score="3" Text="+1 for honest laziness ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:35:23.070" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="12366" PostId="8808" Score="1" Text="Why is off better on a stable tripod if the data you've seen shows that it's never detrimental to the photo? Also, do you have a link to that data?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:38:10.270" UserId="3040" />
  <row Id="12367" PostId="8808" Text="@JamWheel, do you have a citation for the feedback loop scenario?" CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:39:55.493" UserId="3040" />
  <row Id="12368" PostId="8808" Text="@brian not to hand, I am fairly sure it is in the instruction manual of my Canon EF100-400 L - this site briefly mentions the IS causing vibrations when on a tripod: http://www.digital-photography-school.com/image-stabilization-on-tripods and here with example photos: http://www.shanemcdonald.me/022011-how-using-is-on-a-tripod-can-cause-blurry-images/" CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:01:20.613" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12369" PostId="8815" Score="1" Text="One extra bit of advice: regardless of which stitching software you use, the 10-20mm lens probably is *not* ideal for panoramas. Short zooms have enough distortion to make stitching relatively difficult. A 35 or 50mm prime is really the ideal (just takes more shots to cover a given area)." CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:10:01.523" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="12370" PostId="8815" Text="@Leonidas: Visual processing nightmare = I have a visual related learning disability and it's a nightmare. I've worked with laboratory programs more user friendly than it. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:12:29.217" UserId="3890" />
  <row Id="12371" PostId="8815" Text="@Jerry: Thanks! I'll try that out as well. " CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:14:04.910" UserId="3890" />
  <row Id="12372" PostId="8625" Text="Quite the reverse. The organizations are all (presumably) good ones and the interests of the questioner would determine which ones to join. However someone coming to this answer because they want to ask the same thing a) might find one voted up for not better reason than it happened to match the interest of this individual asker (or the voter) and b) has to scroll down much further to get the complete list." CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:22:13.107" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="12373" PostId="8625" Text="I suppose that if you *really* want to having them all in one answer you're welcome to roll 'em up and then flag all the individual answers for a mod to delete. Personally it sounds like you're proposing a solution in want of a problem." CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:28:14.513" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12374" PostId="8809" Text="As long as I'm not too lazy to shut off the IS (I do, VR2) :)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:28:40.320" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12375" PostId="8506" Text="Well I thought they were very informative ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:34:55.657" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="12376" PostId="8824" Text="Definitely, like I said everything is identical between the D200 and the D7000 including the integrated flash being popped up." CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:50:29.617" UserId="3892" />
  <row Id="12377" PostId="8821" Score="6" Text="Two problems with that. First, it may be a dust/gunk generator itself as bits come off the interior. Second, the nicer bulb blowers meant for camera cleaning have a filter on the air intake, so you're not just sucking in dust from the air and blowing it back out again." CreationDate="2011-02-15T21:55:43.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12378" PostId="8499" Text="I've enjoyed reading his articles for about a year - now I feel like someone out of 'Emperor's New Clothes' \o/  Will now go and pore over his disclaimer ..." CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:02:37.223" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="12379" PostId="8824" Text="http://i.imgur.com/pqcLw.jpg  I have no idea how to add images here, but there's my settings." CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:10:35.740" UserId="3892" />
  <row Id="12380" PostId="8824" Text="I am not sure about this, but maybe the camera and the flash are paired in some way. Maybe that - if any - pairing is not released? " CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:15:02.410" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="12382" PostId="8824" Text="there's a icon looking like a framed picture, right to an icon looking like binary code" CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:16:58.417" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="12383" PostId="8824" Text="I have tried with your settings, works for me :(" CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:39:47.093" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="12384" PostId="8563" Text="Indeed I did, and I'm glad you covered all the bases." CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:49:01.390" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="12385" PostId="8681" Text="You're correct that the specified length (up to USB 2.0) is 5 metres, but that isn't a maximum theoretical limit, that's a minimum baseline - USB 2.0 is **required** to work perfectly with up to 5m of cable, including joins or extensions, as long as all that cable is certified (has the USB logo on the plug).  To extend it further you need a hub or repeater at that point.  Like many similar standards, you can probably push it much further and it'll work fine, like 10m or even a bit more, but the standard only requires it to work for up to 5 metres." CreationDate="2011-02-15T23:24:51.920" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12386" PostId="8826" Text="Heh, wrote this hours ago...apparently forgot to click the submit button. Doh!" CreationDate="2011-02-15T23:34:21.430" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12387" PostId="8828" Text="Are you only considering 'hot lights,' or were you hoping for an evaluation of daylight-balanced CFL continuous lighting solutions as well? 'Hot lights' is a slang term, BTW... Maybe you want to consider calling that out in the question? Or not. Just a thought..." CreationDate="2011-02-16T00:40:30.403" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12388" PostId="8681" Text="@thomasrutter: http://www.usb.org/developers/usbfaq/#cab1 in which they apparently disagree with you. In fact, on making a cable longer than 5 meters they respond with &quot;Even if you violated the spec...&quot; and doesn't change the fact that cable quality has an impact, a 5m cable may just make the spec and get the stamp, but still not perform as required under the right conditions which may be easily hit outside of a testing lab." CreationDate="2011-02-16T00:46:04.533" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12389" PostId="8831" Score="3" Text="What do you mean by &quot;digital negatives&quot;? Do you mean prints?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T00:58:49.893" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12390" PostId="8835" Score="2" Text="Good strobes have a modelling lamp which is used to determine shadows, angles, etc. I don't think he's talking about the hotshoe option, I think he's talking about the bigger stobes that are mounted on stands. At least that's how I read it. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T01:12:15.900" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12391" PostId="8822" Text="That's great! I've jury rigged a few product tents, but I never even considered something like this." CreationDate="2011-02-16T01:15:27.240" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12392" PostId="8826" Text="It's not always about hand-holding, right? (But I think we get your point). Check out my answer to this question on aerial photography :-): http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/670/image-stabilization-in-aerial-photography/6084#6084" CreationDate="2011-02-16T01:21:08.717" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="12393" PostId="8828" Text="Good point Jay - I'll rephrase the question to remove the jargon a bit." CreationDate="2011-02-16T01:50:44.027" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12394" PostId="8837" Text="He said he has it on S2 though, which will ignore the first flash." CreationDate="2011-02-16T02:23:07.180" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="12395" PostId="8837" Text="From the OP: [Edit: it turned out that on the Di466 &quot;S2&quot; is the mode that does NOT ignore the pre-flash. But I still do not understand the behavior.]" CreationDate="2011-02-16T03:09:50.670" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="12397" PostId="8835" Text="@John Cavan - yes, I also thought he meant it that way :-) like I said I don't own or use studio equipment, so I didn't know about what you just said. I heard and read stuff also from pros claiming one reason hot lights are &quot;easy&quot; is basically they're always on (compared to strobe). Thanks for the info!" CreationDate="2011-02-16T03:28:17.087" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="12398" PostId="8830" Text="Hi Francesca, and welcome to Photo.SE. If you have a question that you need answers to, you should use the &quot;ask question&quot; link in the header, rather than asking in an answer to another question. Answers to questions that pose additional questions will usually be voted down and ultimately deleted. I recommend asking your question about printing with the PIXMA 9500 II using the &quot;ask question&quot; link at the top of the page." CreationDate="2011-02-16T03:45:44.517" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12399" PostId="8831" Score="1" Text="I imagine he means digital negatives, its a step in an alternative process: http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/tag/digital-negatives" CreationDate="2011-02-16T03:53:20.877" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12400" PostId="8595" Text="@Designer023 you could use some form of change control, such as SVN, and back up the repositories (distributed CC might work best for that).  That would use far more space than the actual files, though, and most implementations of change control are meant for text files, not binaries.  Also, as far as I'm aware, most change control implementations don't necessarily monitor the health of the file system, so corruption can still happen.  Maybe you should ask on one of the software-focused Stack Exchanges." CreationDate="2011-02-16T04:06:32.397" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12402" PostId="8788" Text="I think you're right about the confusion. I was thinking about post processing workflow - I was thinking that I've read an article recently about someone who was using the PhaseOne product for RAW conversion, then doing additional work in Photoshop." CreationDate="2011-02-16T04:34:44.320" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12403" PostId="8708" Text="OK. I can understand that. I guess that they're used because they still do a better job." CreationDate="2011-02-16T04:44:38.383" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="12404" PostId="8604" Text="What I can't figure out from that site, if the &quot;full resolution&quot; photos are JPEG only... it seems more aimed at consumers than heavy photographers.  But for casual users it could be an awesome service." CreationDate="2011-02-16T04:53:06.677" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12405" PostId="8841" Text="The biggest difference is that the Pogo is for use with a separate camera; the 300 is a bundled camera-plus-printer.  Which is right for you will depend on your needs. From reading the specs, it looks like the Pogo gives you 2&quot;x3&quot; printed photos, while the 300 gives you only 1.8&quot;x2.4&quot;. Neither of those are particularly large sizes, though. Unless you have a need for nearly-instant, very small photos (do you?), you might be happier with a more general-purpose digital camera and cheap 4&quot;x6&quot; prints at a drugstore. I wanted to like the Pogo; I bought one cheap a year ago but never used it." CreationDate="2011-02-16T07:13:06.060" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12406" PostId="8710" Score="1" Text="Is that a whole-frame shot, or is it cropped?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T07:20:40.653" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12407" PostId="983" Text="One possible variation on this would be to, if you have more than one camera, specify that with a particular camera, you take exactly one photo per day.  With your other camera(s), you're still allowed to take as many as you want.  This (or some other relaxation on the rules) might be particularly important if, say, you have gigs you have to shoot.  ;)  Could be fun to make the one-a-day camera something interesting, too -- perhaps a view camera??  Or at least film.  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T07:34:22.727" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12408" PostId="8841" Text="I apologize, I didn't pay enough attention to your link, and I thought the Pogo was just a printer, not a camera+printer.  They are still very small prints, though." CreationDate="2011-02-16T07:41:57.267" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12409" PostId="1066" Text="This question about [getting film developed by mail](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4434/where-is-a-really-good-place-to-get-film-developed-by-mail) might also help." CreationDate="2011-02-16T07:45:12.993" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12410" PostId="8837" Score="1" Text="Thanks for your answer. I dont think that is the right answer. First, I am pretty sure the slave flash has recharged (its indicated by a green light). Second, I should see ambient PLUS the build in flash from my G1. I have another idea: maybe the slave flash fires during the pre-flash (Since it is set to S2) - right wenn the camera is doing some TTL measurements. Now the camera sees this bright flash and reduces the intensity of the second internal flash. This would explain the result, right?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T08:20:43.120" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="12411" PostId="7684" Text="Oooh, reminds me of [The Dictionary Game](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fictionary) (a.k.a. Fictionary, basically the same as the commercial game [Balderdash](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balderdash), etc.)!  Hmm, could be interesting to do a photo version of that... perhaps on flickr.  Someone chooses a word (or one is chosen randomly by a moderator), everyone makes up a definition and goes and takes a photo to illustrate that definition, posting both photo and definition.  People then go through and vote on which ones they think are &quot;real&quot;, and points accumulate, per the game rules.  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T08:22:49.563" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12412" PostId="8595" Score="1" Text="@Designer023/drewbenn - there is a pretty common tool for this called rsync, that does incremental backups. A little googling will find some nice front ends for it." CreationDate="2011-02-16T09:08:09.517" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="12413" PostId="8595" Text="@drewbenn that is a pretty good idea, but like you say the change control such as SVN and GIT aren't really suited for this kind of storage, but I do like the idea of being to roll back easily. I might see what the software folk recommend." CreationDate="2011-02-16T09:10:13.310" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12414" PostId="8617" Text="@Jon.Griffen I didn't know that Amazon had that service. +1 for that bit of info :)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T09:11:18.970" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12415" PostId="8595" Text="rsync - nice one. For anyone else looking here is the link to a good os x tutorial with rsync http://www.egg-tech.com/mac_backup/" CreationDate="2011-02-16T09:15:24.253" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12416" PostId="981" Text="@Matt Bishop That is a wonderful tool. I really like what you have done. If it could generate a gpx file that could be emailed or saved to a phone that would be ideal for shooting out and about " CreationDate="2011-02-16T09:46:28.053" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12417" PostId="8817" Text="Thanks for posting - I want a 50mm f/2 or under. I was going to get the inexpensive Nikkor f/1.8D but it won't autofocus on my D5000. Can you recommend similar glass that will?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T09:57:37.723" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="12418" PostId="8849" Score="1" Text="Whilst the phenomenon you describe is caused by reflections in the lens the term most often used is *lens flare* " CreationDate="2011-02-16T10:27:30.660" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12419" PostId="8851" Text="Thanks , I was always wondering what exactly the use of lens hood , Will try it when I have opportunity to shoot next sunrise. Thank you" CreationDate="2011-02-16T10:38:44.977" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12420" PostId="8851" Score="2" Text="actually, using a lens hood when the sun/bright source of light is in the frame helps nothing in avoiding lens flare. The hood/hand only helps when the light source is not in the frame, but hits the front element of the lens (thereby reflecting through the lens elements and causing flare). As Matt Grum explained. Again as he explained, when the source of light is in the frame, the only thing that can decrease flare is the quality of the coatings on the lens, and its construction." CreationDate="2011-02-16T11:26:15.490" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12421" PostId="1648" Text="@Itai subnote subnote, facebook don't strip all the metadata anymore. The image description is now retained and used as the description in facebook (finally)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:11:09.157" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12422" PostId="8728" Text="I use only one API key, but each webstart instance communicates through the website to load-balance the work so that quota is not exceeded." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:14:13.897" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12423" PostId="8728" Text="I'm concerned why the webstart app did not work for you. It should find serials in about 1/4 of all photos scanned. Are there any messages in the java console logs? I downloaded those sample images a short whole back and wrote a python script to generate some statistics. I'll post them online soon as others may find it interesting." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:17:25.657" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12424" PostId="988" Text="Oddly enough, the same idea came to me a few days ago as I was walking on the beach and looking at how the wind had altered the dunes." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:19:33.227" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12425" PostId="1002" Text="Great idea, but they won't accept photos from Picasaweb, so canned the idea." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:20:41.697" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12426" PostId="2927" Score="1" Text="Great idea, I will soon have a great number of portraits." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:22:03.413" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12427" PostId="8800" Text="Thanks so much for this, some great info and ideas. The QRCode is v. clever. I'm not sure I understand how the File API is that helpful to me in the way you mention (who would allow local file access and have images from a stolen camera) but it is exactly what I'm looking for to write a simple serial extraction tool for the homepage of my website. Instead of &quot;Enter your serial number&quot; I can just allow people to search with an image they already have (it also prevents mistakes). Another advantage is that I sometimes have to use the internal serial number as an ID, not the one on the camera box." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:28:12.997" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12428" PostId="8800" Text="Incidentally, that demo page only worked for me in firefox, not Chrome. I'm also starting to think this page isn't ideal for discussing all this but it'll do for now! ps. I'm travelling through Asia at the moment so don't be offended if I ever take a few days (/weeks) to reply, your comments have been very helpful to me, thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-16T12:31:10.940" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12429" PostId="8824" Text="Calling Nikon today.  I still can not get it to fire with the D7K, all the while the D200 fires it again and again.   One thing I can note is that the preflashes don't seem to look or sound the same as the D200's." CreationDate="2011-02-16T13:55:20.753" UserId="3892" />
  <row Id="12430" PostId="8855" Text="I forgot to add that the strobes were angled at 45 degrees either side. I never shot with glass on unless I was doing a lith negative. 45 degrees will also kill off reflections from shiny surfaces" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:27:13.053" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12431" PostId="8850" Score="1" Text="Its not really a full answer, but one of the often recommended books on here: Light: Science and Magic has a section on lighting artwork.  http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:30:24.203" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12432" PostId="8796" Text="Very nice photos. Now I have something to aim for :D" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:51:35.253" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12433" PostId="8797" Text="Will things like image stabilization on the lens also come into play? Should I have the stabilization off?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T14:52:32.867" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12434" PostId="8851" Score="4" Text="Remove the UV or clear filter too, if you have one mounted. Their main purpose in life is to introduce flare." CreationDate="2011-02-16T15:23:22.967" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12435" PostId="8831" Score="1" Text="Huh. It seems to come from here http://www.danburkholder.com/Pages/main_pages/book_info_main_page1.htm — it's a process for using an inkjet printer to produce actual physical (i.e., not digital) negatives for contact printing." CreationDate="2011-02-16T15:32:58.440" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12436" PostId="8837" Text="That's a definite possibility. When you disable both flash units, does the ambient give the image the red/yellow look you're speaking of in your post? You could try mounting the external unit on the hotshoe of the G1 and see if you get a more accurate exposure. Mounting on the hotshoe should disable the TTL preflash from what I've read. Or, you could try the other, less scientific method I mentioned before. Let me know what happens. Also, can you post a sample image?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T15:38:07.047" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="12437" PostId="8808" Text="&quot;unless the lens is capable of detecting it is tripod mounted&quot; Even with lenses capable of detecting there's a tripod it isn't 100% failsafe. " CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:13:10.120" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="12438" PostId="8800" Text="the exif reader demo works in chrome &gt; 5, the error is caused by a non-essential logging function (check in the chrome console and redefine it as empty func). Happy travelling!" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:21:19.980" UserId="3866" />
  <row Id="12439" PostId="8824" Text="Must be something wrong with the D7000.  I forced a 1.01 firmware re-load and still nothing.  The Nikon rep couldn't figure anything out either as her camera fired the sb600 perfectly with identical settings.  Guess I may have to downgrade for the remote flash shots Saturday at the wedding." CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:33:23.800" UserId="3892" />
  <row Id="12440" PostId="8859" Text="That looks pretty useful for making black and while photos. Does it have presets for certain film types? Essentially I want to build a library of presets that can encompass the most popular and characteristic film types/effects that there are/were." CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:48:56.917" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12441" PostId="8811" Text="That looks really good, but I am guessing that I can't reverse engineer the curves from a photo like that. It would mean buying the software. Plus I would like to learn how to recreate the effects myself so that I can pick a look that a certain film gave and recreate it (assuming I have the data to do so)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:51:25.400" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12442" PostId="8604" Text="Yes, is is JPEG only. They changed the business model slightly since the launch which was 1 cent per photo for life, I guess volume became an issue." CreationDate="2011-02-16T17:32:34.460" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12443" PostId="8861" Score="1" Text="You beat me by a button-click. The only thing I had to add was that a grid can be **huge** (covering the entire surface of a jumbo softbox) and still be very directional. Somehow, that doesn't seem to warrant a whole different answer..." CreationDate="2011-02-16T17:36:44.470" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12444" PostId="7774" Text="I bought this Casio Ex-Z2000 brand recently. Beginning I was able to take with clear pictures. After 2 month, all the pictures i took looked blur and unclear. I feel being cheated, sad!! What went wrong with it? Can anyone help to advise, Thanks. " CreationDate="2011-02-16T17:41:06.833" UserId="3903" />
  <row Id="12445" PostId="8861" Score="1" Text="Stan: Actually I think it does, esp. if you add in that huge = soft." CreationDate="2011-02-16T17:49:21.047" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="12446" PostId="8861" Score="2" Text="Hmm, this answer and [this one](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8858/grids-vs-snoots/8860#8860) seem in direct conflict with each other. Could we get more information on the fall-off characteristics of each?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T18:21:13.277" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12447" PostId="8860" Text="+1 - very cool links.  I never cease to be amazed at how much lighting stuff there is to play with." CreationDate="2011-02-16T18:23:30.630" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="12448" PostId="8595" Text="@jon.griffen I use rsync (actually a frontend to it, LuckyBackup), but I was under the impression (and have accepted that it might bite me) that rsync &quot;will merrily back up corruptions&quot; and so might not be suitable.  Though, I think this thread has become, &quot;what's the best software to back up 120GB in binaries with an off-site external hard drive&quot; and could be better answered on some other Stack Exchange." CreationDate="2011-02-16T18:35:57.627" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12449" PostId="8862" Score="1" Text="Why do you say the polarizer isn't useful on the kit lens?  Because you need to re-rotate the filter every time you change focus?  If you're shooting any sort of still life, that really shouldn't be a problem: with either lens you're going to focus first, then adjust the polarizer.  Or did you have some other reason in mind?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T18:40:01.023" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12450" PostId="8861" Score="2" Text="Huge doesn't necessarily equate to soft. The light may strike a large area, but it can also be very directional, since the light from each of the little snoots that make up the grid can have a very tight beam spread (as little as 5 degrees). A gridded softbox can have very even coverage (low fall-off) over a large area, but still have nearly the shadows you'd expect from a spotlight since each illuminated spot on the subject is recieving light from only a very few cells in the grid. (Mind you, the light from a reflector placed opposite the box would be very soft.)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T18:55:14.653" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12451" PostId="8797" Text="I've only used an IS lens on an important shoot so just switched it off as I didn't have the chance to experiment. I'm sure it has been covered on here before though." CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:01:52.260" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12452" PostId="8862" Text="Perhaps you could describe the way it fails to fit: filter diameter too large/small or threads not mating up, etc." CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:11:37.097" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="12453" PostId="8861" Score="1" Text="@Stan, look at all the rep you're missing out on. :-P" CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:17:24.717" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="12454" PostId="8861" Score="1" Text="Believe it or not, I'm not in it for the rep. I just want other people to have the same kind of fun (which comes from not having to think too much about the tools) as I used to have taking pictures. (I say &quot;used to have&quot; because I've got to wait a bit to get some kit modified to work with my disabilities -- I've got a lot more to work with lately in this digital era, so I think it's time to get back into the game.) I can do everything except mod stuff with the rep I have now, so why go fishing?" CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:28:32.303" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12455" PostId="8861" Text="@lindes It depends somewhat on the relative lengths of the mods, I'll try and draw a diagram explaining what's going on, but in the meantime here's a good writeup of what the mods do:  http://blog.nikonians.org/martin_joergensen/2008/07/flash-modifiers.html" CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:43:49.223" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12456" PostId="8863" Text="Yeah. I was doing it in reverse. I think my brain was polarized. " CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:48:17.817" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12457" PostId="8864" Score="3" Text="ZOMG! Thanks for the picture. I was of course trying to make it fit in a wrong way :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:49:26.990" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12458" PostId="8862" Score="1" Text="@drewbenn Yeah, it is the re-rotaing problem which is been mentioned in a thread here. " CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:52:06.893" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12459" PostId="8862" Text="@Lyman, as mentioned below, it was a mistake from my side (due to inexperience, of course)." CreationDate="2011-02-16T19:59:14.370" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12460" PostId="8837" Text="@Stiefel, upon further consideration I'm not convinced that your slave is firing on the second flash after the TTL preflash. If, as you proposed, the camera read the slave during it's TTL preflash measuring, it still wouldn't change anything on the exposure or the slave since they're both set to manual. The camera 'may' reduce the built in strobe because of the scenario you suggested but the slave remains unaffected." CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:16:58.533" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="12461" PostId="8866" Score="1" Text="Lots of time/patience + Fredmiranda sales forum. But seriously, I am also very interested in this question. +1" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:28:58.577" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12462" PostId="8866" Score="7" Text="You should probably explain what these sites are - I have never heard of any of them." CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:29:21.207" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12463" PostId="8850" Text="@rfusca Excellent, I'll check it out" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:34:27.027" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12464" PostId="8855" Text="By `a standard (non strobe) lamp could be used with a longer exposure` do you mean a non-photographic &quot;continuous&quot; light?  I was hoping that might be an answer :)" CreationDate="2011-02-16T22:13:09.290" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12465" PostId="8866" Text="These are &quot;deal&quot; sites that post short time (usually a day or less) , limited supply offers are heavily discounted prices usually on either off brand, &quot;last season&quot;, or refurb items that they buy in bulk.  I've some some Pentax stuff show up on Woot before.  The resale value on photography eq is high enough, it would surprise me to see much stuff hit these sites (and its rare that I have)." CreationDate="2011-02-16T22:24:02.033" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12466" PostId="8855" Score="1" Text="Yes I meant a continuous source. It's not ideal, it really depends on your budget. You want either an incandescent bulb (i.e. a non energy saver) or a florescent specifically designed for photography. More than one light is helpful for an even coverage, to do it with one light you need to place your lightsource a decent distance away which reduces the power output..." CreationDate="2011-02-16T22:49:28.637" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12467" PostId="8868" Text="I'm not looking for specific rates, but rather the factors involved in determining those rates." CreationDate="2011-02-16T23:04:40.563" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12468" PostId="8868" Text="Check out the link, it goes into that along with the rates which appropriate for the types of use." CreationDate="2011-02-16T23:05:54.057" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12469" PostId="8824" Text="If it could be of any help : http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/ittlslave.htm" CreationDate="2011-02-17T00:42:05.333" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12470" PostId="8874" Score="5" Text="And the bigger the lens is, the more &quot;pro&quot; you look too ! Good tip for the business card ! +1" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:06:29.150" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12471" PostId="8875" Score="1" Text="@Itai, thank you for that explanation. So it's an erroneous belief that lenses prevent lens flare? What are they for, then?" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:09:16.227" UserId="3910" />
  <row Id="12472" PostId="8875" Score="2" Text="@Mohamad - For info on filters and purpose, have a look at this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1872/types-of-filters-and-their-use/1876" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:14:18.340" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12473" PostId="8875" Score="2" Text="Itai has it right, the best filter for preventing lens flare is _no filter_." CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:27:05.120" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12474" PostId="8872" Score="2" Text="+1 for offering a sample. Actually I have done that once. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:38:12.040" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12475" PostId="8874" Text="+1 for the business card tip. Sometimes looking a real professional with zoom lenses helped me too. Like this one: http://www.flickr.com/photos/arunv/5390217106/ To ask, I didn't even speak their language. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:44:10.910" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12476" PostId="610" Score="3" Text="Found a similar question (was not suggested when I added this qn) http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/610/street-photography-hints-on-approaching-people " CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:15:53.820" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="12477" PostId="8877" Text="Do you have a full frame (FX) of crop (DX, 1.6x) DSLR ?" CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:26:26.803" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12478" PostId="8877" Text="Please add your camera, as that will affect the answer.  You'll want something that has the equivalent field of view as a 50mm lens on a 35mm camera, and that is affected by your camera sensor's crop factor." CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:27:51.880" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12479" PostId="8877" Text="sure I will edit my question , forgot that factor. I have canon eos 1000D , which is not a full frame. crop factor of 1.6x" CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:30:39.293" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12480" PostId="8861" Text="@Stan Rogers - (I actually started writing this comment disagreeing with your 2nd comment here, but then I had a thought (I saw the light...) - an example to demonstrate your point). In the extreme case, think of a &quot;huge&quot; light source comprised of an array of thousands of aligned lasers. This will be like a softbox with infinitesimally dense and long grid. When lighting a subject with this kind of light, it is easy to understand why, even though the source is very big in area, you see very sharp shadows." CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:48:27.040" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12481" PostId="8874" Score="1" Text="Oh and use a battery grip if you don't have a pro body :-D Oh and if you wear a black polo shirt, you often look a bit pro too..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:58:38.960" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12482" PostId="8876" Score="7" Text="Go to a professional portrait-photographer and let him take a decent and normal photo. Never, ever try to be &quot;interesting&quot; on a photo in your CV for a technical job. Maybe if you submit it for the next fancy and ultra-hip future mega-company, but else: resist." CreationDate="2011-02-17T03:02:01.250" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="12483" PostId="8877" Score="1" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1104/what-focal-length-would-be-the-equivalent-of-the-standard-55mm-on-aps-c-cameras" CreationDate="2011-02-17T03:40:05.703" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12484" PostId="2153" Text="On the one hand, I understand the optics of what you're saying, I think.  But on the other, I can take my 50 mm prime or any other lens and fill the entire picture frame with the subject.  So, I don't understand that part.  Now, if it's what @Eruditass is saying about &quot;flat-field focus&quot;, again that starts to make sense as a difference from non-macro lenses, but most people leave that out of the definition.  Is it just assumed?" CreationDate="2011-02-17T03:42:27.900" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="12485" PostId="8879" Score="2" Text="A filter, any filter, is a flat pane of glass precisely parallel to the image sensor in the camera. This situation is just asking for flare... no filter will do anything at all to _prevent_ flare, but some are worse than others. A polarizer is a useful filter, yes, but will potentially flare just like any other." CreationDate="2011-02-17T03:51:33.780" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12486" PostId="8875" Text="Just a minor comment on your final sentence, Itai... some lenses such as the Canon 24-70 f/2.8L actually zoom &quot;the wrong way&quot;, it is physically longest at 24mm and shortest at 70mm. Since the lens-hood is fixed to the rear tube of the lens, not the front tube, this means that the hood is actually quite effective throughout the zoom range. Clever, clever Japanese engineers..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T03:54:12.403" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12488" PostId="2153" Text="@khedron: The idea is to fill the entire picture frame with an in-focus subject of your sensor size (e.g. 22x15mm). That is 1:1 Macro. As for flat-field focus, it isn't assumed, nor explicitly stated all the time. Many zooms with the &quot;MACRO&quot; designation do not feature this." CreationDate="2011-02-17T04:41:16.990" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="12489" PostId="8884" Score="2" Text="Here's a lawyer that says you can't take military base photos as well. http://www.legalandrew.com/2007/10/11/photo-law-your-right-to-take-pictures-in-public/" CreationDate="2011-02-17T05:26:22.543" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12490" PostId="8657" Text="This isn't a photography trick, BTW... It's a videography trick. *Totally* different thing." CreationDate="2011-02-17T05:39:52.423" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12491" PostId="8866" Text="@JamWheel &quot;Woot-style&quot; usually means the site sells one item per day, or, more broadly, one item at a time. Woot.com was one of the first sites to do this, and they've stuck to it for a long time. A bunch of other sites have copied the model." CreationDate="2011-02-17T05:46:30.267" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12492" PostId="8875" Text="@Staale That _is_ clever." CreationDate="2011-02-17T06:49:01.237" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12493" PostId="8808" Text="@brian Any time you have a closed-loop control system with low damping, (a tripod will be pretty elastic for small movements), delay (the processing delay of the camera's VR system), and loop gain &gt;= 1, feedback can occur." CreationDate="2011-02-17T07:04:57.270" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12494" PostId="8887" Text="Great stuff here!" CreationDate="2011-02-17T07:30:28.060" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12495" PostId="8872" Score="1" Text="I think this depends on the type of photo you wish to capture, you might not want to lose the candidness if it is a candid shot you're after, but you might want the person to look at the camera for you as well." CreationDate="2011-02-17T07:34:11.713" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12496" PostId="8884" Score="2" Text="A lawyer that uses the term &quot;crazy illegal&quot; would be one to take with a dose of salt in my opinion :)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T07:35:42.817" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12497" PostId="8888" Score="4" Text="For sure... I actually have 'up close and personal' experience with airport emergency vehicles... I managed to set off the fire alarm while directing a short film on airport property last year... You haven't lived until you've seen the airport fire department, the city fire department, the city police, the county sheriff, and the state police all scramble vehicles and show up at your location because of something you did... (my crew set off a hangar fire alarm with a smoke machine). " CreationDate="2011-02-17T07:45:42.197" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12498" PostId="8888" Score="3" Text="Due to a *large* amount of grace from a whole bunch of official folks I managed to get off with a bunch of groveling and a stern warning... It makes a great story now, but there was *nothing* fun about it at the time. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T07:46:32.227" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12499" PostId="8876" Score="2" Text="Personally, I just wouldn't include a photo on a CV for a technical role at all; but then again, I've been on the other side in the past sifting through CVs and know how *I'd* consider them..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T09:00:09.417" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12500" PostId="8869" Text="wow, really? it makes it sort of meaningless, like this. :| i gotta dwelve into this a little bit more. thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T09:44:06.650" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12501" PostId="8890" Score="2" Text="This is a very good approach and offers you peace of mind. If you call and explain your exact intentions and where you plan to photograph from - you can check whether it is ok. Asking what you are not allowed to photograph will probably be worthwhile as it shows intent on your part to abide by the law. Then if anyone does show up and ask you can tell them you had permission from the base itself. Asking if you can check in with the gate staff beforehand might be worthwhile as well" CreationDate="2011-02-17T10:31:13.930" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12502" PostId="8894" Text="I'm also interested in this as I have two manual Yongnuo speedlites (I only use this off camera)." CreationDate="2011-02-17T11:46:27.343" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12503" PostId="8800" Text="About the local file use case: I think we mean the same thing - a js cam serial extraction for local files that is part of your stolencamerafinder website, not necessarily of the extension. It could be used to determine the cam status based on some sample photo (e.g. taken during the purchase of a used cam to make sure it wasn't stolen from someone else). BTW: did you extend Jacob Seidelin's Exif parser on your own or was the serial number extraction his work?" CreationDate="2011-02-17T12:03:50.640" UserId="3866" />
  <row Id="12504" PostId="8855" Text="If I go down the continuous route, do I likely want a spotlight type light or something more diffuse?  Or does this depend entirely on the art?" CreationDate="2011-02-17T13:04:50.347" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12505" PostId="7457" Text="+1 A simple solution that will work well everywhere at all times :)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T13:08:29.860" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12506" PostId="8837" Text="I think the first sentence has it. The flash can't recycle quickly enough to deliver two full-power flashes in quick succession, even when it *starts* at full charge. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T13:09:59.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12507" PostId="1106" Text="I didn't downvote, but I suspect whoever did finds &quot;focal length multiplier&quot; to be a harmful term." CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:10:43.690" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12508" PostId="1106" Text="Also, you don't address the last part of the question (&quot;What focal length should I look for that would have a 'standard' angle of view similar to the unaided eye?&quot;), although that hardly seems a reason to downvote." CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:11:14.297" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12509" PostId="8897" Text="I will have a look into it. I am now considering backing up using a combo of rotating HDD's backed up with rsync moved off site after each backup, and I may possibly be going to try syncing to s3 or a similar service using rsync too. Nothing like overkill!" CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:16:03.783" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12510" PostId="8896" Text="+1 for focus stacking, interesting!" CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:34:00.347" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12511" PostId="8884" Score="2" Text="@JamWheel - he's just setting up early for the insanity defense ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T15:17:55.897" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12512" PostId="8598" Text="I'm using Crashplan and it's going great. It took about 3 weeks to upload 200GB+ but now it does it every night and I'm worry free." CreationDate="2011-02-17T15:19:26.737" UserId="740" />
  <row Id="12513" PostId="4977" Text="@Matt: You are correct, the image quality is not *always* better as a result, but there is *often a strong correlation*, because when a manufacturer is spending the time and effort on designing a wide aperture, they are usually targeting a higher end audience that will demand higher quality standards." CreationDate="2011-02-17T15:27:08.087" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12514" PostId="8902" Score="3" Text="Related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2078/how-do-i-remove-dead-pixels-from-a-digital-photo" CreationDate="2011-02-17T15:45:48.953" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12515" PostId="8904" Score="1" Text="Also, slightly unrelated, but there is a &quot;Service advisory&quot; for the D5000: http://www.nikonusa.com/Service-And-Support/Service-Advisories/gezwvxil/D5000%20Service%20Advisory.html so you might be able to have this repaired at low/no cost" CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:00:41.483" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12516" PostId="8907" Score="5" Text="It seems to me that this is highly photoshoped." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:30:01.213" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12517" PostId="8908" Score="7" Text="Ignoring the lens side of the equation, you should be turning your CAMERA off before changing lenses anyway, which would remove power from the IS anyway... accomplishing the same load of BS the instructor is claiming." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:38:17.027" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12518" PostId="8908" Score="4" Text="There is an argument that rages on many a forum that you don't  need to turn the power off for lens changes either - I do though because it makes me feel happy :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:42:58.753" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12519" PostId="8907" Score="3" Text="Photoshopdisasters.com would call it &quot;awesome&quot;. Is that model a vampire? Nah, couldn't be, she woulda burst into flames in that sunset." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:45:35.257" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12520" PostId="8907" Text="I'm guessing there's some HDR going on with this shot, the shadows just aren't shaded quite enough... Could be some external lights as well. There's definitely something not quite right about this shot..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:51:45.437" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12521" PostId="8910" Score="1" Text="Well said, I will add that the &quot;on car&quot; shadows are wrong. They seems generated, like a 3d model. Zoom in and you see the contact of the tires and the ground is wrong. The edge between the mirror and the rocks too." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:57:05.823" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12522" PostId="8907" Score="3" Text="@pearsonartphoto I really don't think the car or model were at the dock for the sunset shoot. I think it's at least three layers." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:57:10.643" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12523" PostId="8910" Text="I may sound noob a bit by saying that, but the `Sunset` preset (in `Guide`, Nikon D5000) gives me this kind of colors. It's pretty easy and you don't require a lot of modification." CreationDate="2011-02-17T16:59:16.693" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12524" PostId="8855" Text="It depends on the art, but most of the time a hard point source will be best. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:14:56.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12525" PostId="8907" Score="7" Text="The car is CG, the model was probably shot in a studio, thankfully it's just the colours you want to emulate as the whole thing looks awful to me. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:28:42.613" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12526" PostId="8908" Score="4" Text="You don't need to turn your camera off before you change lenses. This is a myth. See: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6217/what-are-the-dangers-of-removing-a-lens-while-the-camera-is-on/6226#6226 for more detail... But feel free to continue the practice if it makes you feel happy!" CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:37:38.547" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12527" PostId="8908" Score="1" Text="@cabbey There's nothing in the 20D manual about turning the camera off when changing lenses, if it was important I'm sure Canon would mention it! " CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:50:30.083" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12528" PostId="8904" Score="3" Text="Some camera bodies have hot-pixel mapping available as a user-accessible menu option. This is by far the best solution, but unfortunately many camera makers use this as a price differentiator, reserving the feature for higher-end bodies. Something to keep in mind next time you're shopping for a camera body." CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:58:30.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12529" PostId="8876" Score="1" Text="@Rowland: Maybe for where you're at, but remember that different areas of the world handle CVs differently, so that advice may not apply wherever the OP is. In Korea (for example) it is *de rigueur* to always include a picture (as well as other information that might be 'strange' to Western business culture such as religion)..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:59:42.667" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12530" PostId="8908" Text="@Jay @Matt: the contact frying bit I was well aware of, but the conversation Matt and Itai had in that question about static charge and dust is eye opening. I'll probably still try to avoid doing it. But since @Shizam has proven that even turning it off isn't enough when he's around it probably won't matter much. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:29:52.450" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12531" PostId="8908" Text="and note that with @kloucks' edit to add... turning the camera off would take care of that caveat.  ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:30:56.927" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12532" PostId="8907" Text="@Matt I was originally thinking it was a real car, but looking through the rest of the images there, yeah CG is a strong possibility, and would explain the all kinds of wrong discrepancies with it's lighting vs the environment lighting in many of those shots." CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:34:09.077" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12533" PostId="8916" Score="5" Text="Oh, and... cheaping out on the tripod is a bad, bad move. For your kind of job you want solid, you want heavy, you want stable; you do absolutely not want light and flimsy." CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:54:39.387" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12534" PostId="8916" Score="1" Text="If you will have relatively long exposures, you may find that a remote shutter release (such as the first result I found in a search: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Shutter-Release-Powershot-Replacement/dp/B002PJESBG) will help.  There won't be any physical movement on the camera from you pushing down on the shutter release button, which means less camera shake which means sharper pictures.  You might also want to read about mirror lockup." CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:41:24.147" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12535" PostId="8876" Text="@Jay very true - we have to be careful about all sorts of legislation regarding equal opportunities - it does depend on the industry too - I'd expect to see a photo on a portfolio for a model (which is essentially a CV of sorts)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:42:44.137" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="12536" PostId="8919" Score="2" Text="While this perhaps starts out a little flip, it ends up being a beautiful and wonderful answer. Kudos. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:53:10.383" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12537" PostId="8877" Score="1" Text="What about the media intended to deliver the picture to other's eyes? Big or small? Screen or paper? ..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:02:29.800" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="12538" PostId="8916" Score="2" Text="The camera should have a timer release function, too. This means that there is a 3 or 10 second delay from you push the shutter until the photo is taken. This lets the camera/tripod settle down after the button push." CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:04:15.617" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12539" PostId="8891" Text="Well, there is Highlight Tone Priority (as Canon calls it; probably also exists with different names for different brands), but it's not exactly what you're talking about here. I'd love a sensor that somehow had a logarithmic response curve per photo site after getting to a certain exposure..." CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:14:58.557" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12540" PostId="8911" Text="It's not just yellowing paper that's being simulated -- magenta dyes are (or at least historically were -- colour technology has improved as much as eveything else) more fugitive than either cyan or yellow." CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:39:19.363" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12541" PostId="8911" Text="good point @Stan, updated." CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:49:39.977" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12542" PostId="8892" Text="Thank you Evan, this makes perfectly sense. I was not aware that in S2-mode the slave flash might fire on the pre-flash AND the main-flash if it has enough power left in its capacitors. " CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:02:51.103" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="12544" PostId="8837" Text="Thank you Ofeargall (and mattdm) - after reading Evans post I saw that you already gave the right answer, I just was to slow thinking to fully understand it." CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:12:24.107" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="12545" PostId="8837" Text="@Steifel, as long as you're getting the result you are looking for, it doesn't matter where the answer comes from. Were it me, I would be trying to figure out a way to disable that silly TTL preflash since you're going manual anyway." CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:18:42.483" UserId="3203" />
  <row Id="12546" PostId="8877" Text="Interesting -- this ended up as a more general form of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8043/how-can-knowledge-of-human-perception-of-color-be-used-in-photography in the sense that our viewers' brains play a huge part in their perceptions of photos.  Great answers here." CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:22:18.590" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="12547" PostId="8892" Text="A simple experiment confirms your theory: in S2-mode with +0.5 power the slave needs twice as long to recharge than in S1-mode - which means the slave flash has fired twice.  " CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:24:31.537" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="12548" PostId="8837" Text="I wished the Lumix G1 would offer this option :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:33:48.860" UserId="3610" />
  <row Id="12549" PostId="8869" Text="In many instances, yes, it's meaningless.  In your case, it is providing you with helpful information: the device contains lead.  It's now your job to learn how much lead is in there, how lead affects you and at what level.  The old saw, &quot;The dose makes the poison&quot; applies here.  In short, don't let the kids chew on it and move on." CreationDate="2011-02-17T23:44:27.517" UserId="1202" />
  <row Id="12550" PostId="6492" Text="It might be buggy working with big files (memory issues), but for other things it works very great, it can even create HDR bokeh panoramas, you can play a lot with the options it offers." CreationDate="2011-02-18T00:09:52.627" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="12552" PostId="8930" Text="There's some other (also oldish) articles from the person who did the testing for that article here: http://www.wilhelm-research.com/articles.html" CreationDate="2011-02-18T01:58:22.167" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12553" PostId="8925" Score="3" Text="Seriously, just use photoshop :)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T02:41:04.440" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12554" PostId="8930" Score="4" Text="In some cases you aren't even getting the same fundamental type of ink - refills for Epson printers that use pigment, may have dye based inks instead.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:01:06.200" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12556" PostId="8877" Text="@mouviviel -- Media is intended to deliver to my eyes after taking the picture , About , Screen and paper, If screen is calibrated properly I think we can expect almost the same thing on screen into Paper , Basically Screen and paper both :D" CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:17:54.767" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12557" PostId="8919" Text="Wow , I got lost reading the photoshop stuff then at the end it was good advice :) TY." CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:23:21.873" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12558" PostId="8878" Text="Ok , I was not satisfied with this situation , where I took a pic of sunrise using 50mm 1.8 , Size of the sun was much smaller in pic compared to what I saw in real , So I think I will have to adjust my focal length around 90-100mm to get the proper size. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:29:40.637" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12559" PostId="8933" Score="1" Text="I thought the 1:1 designation was ment as a spec. for the representation of the object on the film/sensor only and has no bearing on display size.  So the answer to this question would be 'NO', an object that is 2cm square would be projected onto either sensor at a max of 2cm square.  no?  " CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:31:24.810" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12561" PostId="8893" Text="So u mean lens baby gives better or say real effect to what we see ? because it will focus at one point and other things blurred ?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:31:54.940" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12562" PostId="8893" Text="What do you mean?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:33:13.987" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12563" PostId="8878" Score="1" Text="Like I said, the eye has various regions of sensitivity. It's a bit of a pity you can't really get the FOV and the perception, it's really amazing what our eyes and mind can do, so..." CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:33:49.850" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12564" PostId="8893" Text="I suppose so. I guess the real question is whether you should or shouldn't do it. Pure simulation would mean you would blur the outer area of the photo, but if you managed to blow up final photo to fit your vision, then... your vision would take of the blur, If you know what I mean." CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:37:34.310" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12565" PostId="8925" Score="1" Text="I'm betting the D7000 is doing it in software anyway; it would be silly to keep the sensor charged while the shutter is closed -- you'd just increase noise and waste power." CreationDate="2011-02-18T03:49:57.570" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12566" PostId="8841" Text="This would help a lot. You may post it as an answer actually." CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:01:59.097" UserId="3860" />
  <row Id="12567" PostId="8843" Text="Good point on checking out Amazon. Haven't checked the reviews there yet. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:02:27.910" UserId="3860" />
  <row Id="12568" PostId="8933" Text="@Shizam - You're correct, but so is Jon in a sense. The crop factor isn't so much important as the resolution of the sensor itself. A FF sensor with the same pixel density isn't going to provide less information than the APS-C in a unit of area, but one that has less density will. Having said that, there are other factors at play, such as diffraction limits, depth of field, etc. So, it's not cut and dry and you can't just apply the 1.5 multiplier to it in absence of that information." CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:31:31.567" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="12569" PostId="8931" Text="Do you have a link to the list of the 23 cameras that can?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:32:24.670" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12570" PostId="4977" Score="1" Text="Accurate AF is extremely hard with a narrow DoF. While it might focus faster, it will often focus on the wrong thing. I don't know if I’d consider this a benefit." CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:42:02.510" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="12571" PostId="8893" Text="ok. Will experiment a bit next time :)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T05:02:48.013" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12572" PostId="8938" Text="How about if one has a way to do print profiles (A Spyder print type device or Vuescan+target based solution). Does that change your argument?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T06:26:39.277" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="12573" PostId="8933" Text="@Shizam: @John Cavan reiterated my point well. I was really just trying to say that it isn't as simple as a simple &quot;NO&quot;, and at the same time, it isn't &quot;YES&quot; either. Its something in-between, and it depends on how you look at the subject. If you look at it from a *purely* optical perspective...then yes, you are correct. A 2cm square is projected 2cm in size on the image plane, regardless of how big the imaging medium is. However...thats just looking at it from the optical perspective.... ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T07:15:45.710" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12574" PostId="8939" Text="There is an answered question on the 50 mm prime lens as a standard lens, but doesn't answer the question above - http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/3053/1977" CreationDate="2011-02-18T07:38:08.797" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12575" PostId="8938" Text="@mmccoo if you're willing to do profiling every batch and manage the constantly changing profiles, by all means, go for it. There's also the issue about density that I don't think those tools address... having to know which paper profile to use so that you get the right volume of ink delivered per drop for the paper's absorption curves. I suspect that's trial and error. Personally, my time is worth more than I think you'd save in the long run :) , especially if you buy your ink carts smart (I have a watch on the price at newegg.com for my printer's cartridges, grab them when they're on sale.)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T07:41:37.077" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12576" PostId="8938" Text="There was also an interesting conversation at our local SmugMug User Group tonight about inks and printers... it was pointed out that if you move up to the larger &quot;industrial&quot; / &quot;professional&quot; printers, then the ink costs drop like a ROCK for the orignal vendor inks... so far that the cheap refill stuff is even less attractive." CreationDate="2011-02-18T07:42:36.543" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12577" PostId="8939" Score="4" Text="Actually, a wide aperture is quite useless for &quot;group photographs&quot;. In a group photo, it is normally desireable to have everybody in the group actually in focus and sharp. This cannot be done at f/1.something. I'd go for f/8 or thereabouts as a starting point personally. For portraits, however, f/1-f/2 can actually be enough; if the eyes are sharp the ears can be as fuzzy as they want." CreationDate="2011-02-18T09:24:14.017" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12579" PostId="8945" Text="50mm f/1.8 is _not_ the only affordable fixed focal length lens. In fact, there are _normal_ lens for APS-C cameras which do not cost much more: Nikkor 35 f/1.8 is $199, Pentax 35 f/2.4 is $217, Sony 30 f/2.8 is $199, Olympus 25 f/2.8 is $208." CreationDate="2011-02-18T09:36:11.603" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="12580" PostId="8940" Text="+1 for silver halide! :D" CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:04:24.090" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="12581" PostId="8939" Text="My take on the wide aperture was more from the lighting point of view rather than depth of field, but I agree that you'd need a narrower aperture for sharper group photos." CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:07:59.313" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12582" PostId="5939" Text="Isn't the oil the same that is used with microscope slides? It should be relatively easy to find!" CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:10:05.240" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="12583" PostId="5939" Text="Probably, but one used to be able to get it by the quart (litre) at any photo shop that sold darkroom chemistry. A lab supplier is just a little less handy. Then again, online everything didn't exist back when dinosaurs and I roamed the earth together looking for ways to make unsharp masks..." CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:14:06.217" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12584" PostId="8877" Text="@sat - My point is that if you can take a picture as wide as what your eyes perceive (about 170°), then you need a wide screen or piece of paper to reproduce it. An iPhone is not an option here." CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:15:20.927" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="12585" PostId="8877" Text="@mouviciel , I have a widescreen monitor." CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:32:21.360" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12586" PostId="8945" Score="4" Text="@jextee I didn't say the 50 f/1.8 is the only affordable *fixed focus* lens, I said it's the only affordable *f/1.8* lens. Which it is, the only thing that comes close is the Nikon 35 f/1.8 which is over double the price! " CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:33:22.267" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12587" PostId="8939" Score="1" Text="The ability to go to f/1.8 gives you extra flexibility, you don't have to shoot everything wide open, you can still shoot your group photos at f/8 " CreationDate="2011-02-18T10:40:53.417" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12588" PostId="870" Text="Nick, I read your article and it seems to me that it's just bracketing. What am I missing?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T12:20:42.077" UserId="3660" />
  <row Id="12589" PostId="4977" Text="@ieure: except that the focus speed is based on the maximum aperture, not the aperture that is being used for the shot. The amount of light *while focusing* is the deciding factor.  So, an f/1.4 lens stopped down to f/4 has 8 times as much light while focusing than a f/4 lens of the same focal length, but they would have the same DOF for the actual shot." CreationDate="2011-02-18T12:28:59.263" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12590" PostId="8952" Score="4" Text="Keep in mind, though, that a tripod can be very strong yet lightweight, and that adding extra weight to the tripod using a bag full of heavy stuff (water, rocks, sand) can make it more stable. As long as you aren't carrying the rocks around with you all day, it's like having your cake and eating it too." CreationDate="2011-02-18T13:18:58.357" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12591" PostId="8943" Score="1" Text="The lensbaby product is interesting because 1) it has a clear filter over the pinhole, so dust isn't an issue and 2) it also offers a diffraction-based &quot;zone plate&quot; optic, which opens some new possibilities. In general, I would say don't get the Lensbaby system just for this, but if you already have one, the $35 for the pinhole/zone-plate adapter isn't bad at all." CreationDate="2011-02-18T13:39:32.617" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12592" PostId="8954" Text="Yeah it seems it may have to be too. Ideally I would choose sturdy and portable, but cheap(er) is one of my main factors! The Feisol you have looks really sturdy. Shame it's out of my budget range. One Day! :D" CreationDate="2011-02-18T14:06:26.800" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12593" PostId="870" Text="Hi anthony - no, it's not bracketing. Bracketing is taking a sequence of shots with different exposures when conditions are tricky to see what the best exposure is.The Zone System is identifying a key component of the picture, working out how bright it needs to be, and exposing accordingly. Can usually be done in a single shot. " CreationDate="2011-02-18T14:09:10.227" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="12594" PostId="8953" Text="That sounds about right for what I am after. What head do you use?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T14:14:33.733" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12595" PostId="8952" Text="+1 for eating cake! You do make a good point about the weight to add to the base. I might try with a shopping bag filled with rocks once I get a new tripod!" CreationDate="2011-02-18T14:15:57.413" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12596" PostId="8924" Text="@Itai: But then Gamma also means how colors look on the screen. So why not apply on chrominance channels(Cb,Cr)?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T14:42:47.670" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="12597" PostId="8956" Text="That is good for the price. I have all the remotes too so wobbling it when snapping isn't an issue. Just the sturdiness if there is strong wind. The tripod I have at the moment is a cheaper version of something quite like that and can get quite wobbly sometimes." CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:27:45.997" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12598" PostId="8956" Text="I didn't try it in some huge wind, but I have tryed it on the top of a highway viaduct. Here's one of the pic : http://plavoie.smugmug.com/Night/Aut-20-Nuit/15578768_CVXom#1167201203_J5dCa I think it's pretty good for a frozen winter night. " CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:32:51.713" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12599" PostId="8953" Text="I love that set of legs but I certainly wouldn't call it &quot;light&quot;..." CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:46:43.820" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12600" PostId="8953" Text="Most of the time Manfrotto 222 Joystick Head ( http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554077-REG/Manfrotto_222_222_Joystick_Head.html) because I like to shoot insects and it allows me to track the little devils without a lot of fuss. the Newer Manfrotto 324RC2 Joystick Head is what I will trade up to eventually. As a general purpose head look for a Manfrotto 486RC2 - does a lot is very versatile. " CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:54:21.127" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12601" PostId="8924" Text="@goldenman - Not really. Think about the standard gamma test where you have a solid block of color near alternating stripes of color and black. The relation between the solid color and the way our eye sees the average of the stripes is about the luminance curve of the display (or medium in case of prints)." CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:57:59.907" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12602" PostId="8953" Text="@ahockley: When I wasn't carrying the flimsy under $100 disposable tripods I'd been carrying around a Manfrotto 3221 for years so the 055 seemed like a good compromise on the weight &amp; price issues" CreationDate="2011-02-18T15:59:26.457" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12603" PostId="8924" Text="And I guess Gamma should be related to brightness (perceived intensity), rather than contrast.Correct me if wrong. But got your point about Gamma related more to Luminance component than chrominance component." CreationDate="2011-02-18T16:12:56.797" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="12604" PostId="8933" Text="Ran outta characters to make a comment, must mean its more of an answer :)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T16:14:00.633" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12605" PostId="8931" Text="@ahockley - Sorry not this time. I had to query my database (http://www.neocamera.com/search_camera.php) internally for that. I didn't put options for everything but most common (even even some less common) queries can be done there." CreationDate="2011-02-18T16:18:51.330" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12606" PostId="8924" Text="@goldenmean - Yes! Note that brightness and contrast are correlated on most displays. It is hard to change contrast or brightness without affecting the other. That is why the contrast ratio of a display is computed at a specific brightness." CreationDate="2011-02-18T16:23:38.423" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12607" PostId="8959" Text="And wood!  Best material for vibration dampening." CreationDate="2011-02-18T16:28:47.907" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12608" PostId="8959" Text="Good point... I've updated my question." CreationDate="2011-02-18T16:32:17.227" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12609" PostId="3674" Text="At least around here, a large number of the local frame shops just order the parts from the same place, or similar. Unless you go with something that's high enough volume for them to have on hand, like black or the local highschools' sports teams' colors." CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:05:38.493" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12610" PostId="8956" Text="@philippe wow there's a lot of camera shake in that image. I thought it was just the rough road, then I saw some of the fixed lights on the left side." CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:18:20.493" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12611" PostId="8961" Text="+1 for outside of the box ideas!" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:29:17.460" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12612" PostId="8960" Text="You forgot the more material, the more sturdy, but..." CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:32:17.517" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12613" PostId="8967" Score="1" Text="Again, I is slow on the button. Upvoted for preemptively copying my answer." CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:46:25.260" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12614" PostId="8967" Score="2" Text="The rule of thirds and composition with the golden ratio are both used as rules of off-center composition, but I don't think it's historically or technically accurate to say that the one is a simplification of the other." CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:46:41.247" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12615" PostId="8967" Text="Using the golden ratio is restrictive -- it requires that the ground also be on the golden ratio or the subdivisions won't work. Call the rule of thirds an adaptation if you wish, but that's where my art history tells me it came from." CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:58:01.603" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12616" PostId="8968" Score="1" Text="If your question is more along the lines of &quot;Could I use an IPS based TV to edit photos in a color-calibrated environment?&quot; I'd recommend editing the title/question to reflect that.  As written it seems like some might quickly see it as off-topic." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:02:48.667" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12617" PostId="8971" Score="2" Text="Something like power lines? I'd love a feature that could do that!" CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:14:19.757" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12618" PostId="8972" Score="1" Text="+1 for the skeptical notes." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:15:13.040" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12619" PostId="8973" Score="2" Text="@JamWheel: well, like I explained, it's still useful to have the aperture ring, since it's faster to move the ring than to change the aperture through the controls." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:17:04.257" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="12620" PostId="8973" Score="1" Text="I am not disputing your explanation for why you want it there, but the reason is still the reason - they moved the control to be in camera, not on the lens due to redundancy and possibly cost as mentioned by RedGrittyBrick. Sorry!" CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:18:47.727" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12621" PostId="8974" Text="@RedGrittyBrick: I see. Thanks. (By the way, concerning your last sentence, a AF-S Nikkor 200mm f/2G ED VR II costs around US$ 5 000, and it is a G-type lens; also, the most expensive fixed-length Nikon's lenses today are of type G)." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:19:25.757" UserId="2236" />
  <row Id="12622" PostId="8972" Text="@mattdm glad to see I balanced it correctly. :) " CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:23:00.313" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12623" PostId="8977" Text="I'd +10 this if I could. spot on correct answer. (Sadly.)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:24:41.573" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12624" PostId="8976" Score="1" Text="If you're talking about Xerox solid &quot;ink&quot; printers....thats a whole different beast really.  Thats complicated enough and expensive enough tech I'd not try 3rd parties in it.  We've, unfortunately, got one at work." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:36:20.597" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12625" PostId="8972" Text="Not familiar with the 'classical image' you're referring to and your description doesn't help much... +1 if you can dig it up, or dig up a link at least..." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:45:23.470" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12626" PostId="8970" Score="2" Text="Note that if you have a more high-end camera body, you will have two control dials available, so you don't need to press a button in combination." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:46:29.730" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12627" PostId="8933" Score="3" Text="It might be useful to look at this as a case of *digital magnification.*  Any sensor is sampling an image.  The crop factor refers to how much of the image is sampled.  The pixel sizes tell us the resolution of the sampling.  Finer resolution is tantamount to magnification--up to a point.  That point is determined by the quality of the optics and the f/stop." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:49:06.030" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12628" PostId="8958" Text="&quot;A 2cm square subject will be rendered as 2cm square on either a FF sensor or a 1.5x crop sensor.&quot; I think that should be worded as &quot;A 2cm square subject will be rendered as a 2cm square in the projected image circle.&quot; The projection is to an image circle, not to a specific sensor, and different sensor size will capture different amounts of that image circle. Because of APS-C's cropping, it is possible that you will not actually &quot;record an image&quot; of the full subject, as you would with a FF sensor. That was why I added the &quot;sort-of&quot; case in my answer." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:49:59.213" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12629" PostId="8965" Text="Don't forget: there aren't any strict rule to follow.  The term &quot;rule&quot; in &quot;rule of third&quot; is so wrong.  Those are guidelines, not rules.  Just go as you feel is the best for you and your subject.   No guideline is inferior to another.  Rules are meant to be broken anyway." CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:50:47.497" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="12630" PostId="8937" Score="1" Text="Hello Jack, and welcome to the forums. The wording of your post does not really answer the question, which specifically asked about the maximum allowable length of a USB cable used for tethering. Your answer currently looks a lot like an advertisement more than an answer, which is generally against our posting guidelines: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/367/what-to-do-about-shills-suggesting-their-products" CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:56:42.593" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12631" PostId="8983" Score="1" Text="It also doesn't really answer the question at all. Your solution won't work (at least without *some* of the color being off in a not-pleasant way) if you're shooting in a mixed-lighting environment." CreationDate="2011-02-18T20:13:40.060" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12632" PostId="8958" Score="1" Text="I disagree, the properties of the 'sensor/film' don't matter and where a 2cm object falls on the sensor is besides the point.  Mentioning that a 2cm subject may only be partially on the sensor/film belabors the point, so assuming the subject we're talking about is entirely on the sensor/film makes the answer more clear.  Weather or not all of or part of a subject makes it onto the sensor/film has no impact on the ratio that it was recorded at and therefore is irrelevant." CreationDate="2011-02-18T20:18:01.870" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12633" PostId="8965" Score="1" Text="Isn't it interesting how the &quot;Rule of Thirds&quot; and &quot;Theory of Gravity&quot; aren't?" CreationDate="2011-02-18T20:34:19.963" UserId="2474" />
  <row Id="12634" PostId="8975" Score="3" Text="It's &quot;golden&quot; largely because it's so imprecise. Get &quot;close&quot; (with very large error bars) to the golden ratio, take a lot of pictures, find one that looks nice, and proudly proclaim that it's because you followed the golden ratio (rather than the subject being in focus, or the color quality)." CreationDate="2011-02-18T20:38:05.750" UserId="2474" />
  <row Id="12635" PostId="2300" Text="I've removed the Amazon affiliate link in your question and replaced it with a non-affiliate link.  See this on meta for the community's stance on affiliate links: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/661/is-it-appropriate-for-answer-ers-to-embed-affiliate-referral-codes-into-answers" CreationDate="2011-02-18T21:08:32.557" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="12636" PostId="8803" Text="Check this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7848/should-i-turn-off-optical-image-stabilisation-when-shooting-long-exposure-photos" CreationDate="2011-02-18T21:33:40.130" UserId="1641" />
  <row Id="12637" PostId="8956" Text="Yeah maybe, but for 30 sec exposure.. I didn't expect better from this tripod in the snow." CreationDate="2011-02-18T21:34:05.720" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="12638" PostId="8826" Text="There's some good information in here... I'm failing to see the one part I'm looking for, though: why you'd actually want to turn it off, and under what conditions. Perhaps an edit is coming? :)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T21:43:22.687" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12639" PostId="8578" Text="One comment on the &quot;mask the area(s)&quot; portion: one way to do this is with multiple raw conversions, stacked a la HDR, but varying whit-balance instead of exposure. In Photoshop, using Smart Objects (File-&gt;Place...) to open up an extra copy (or two) of your RAW file is a handy way to go (and you are shooting in RAW, right? Especially important for stuff like this.)" CreationDate="2011-02-18T21:55:01.603" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12640" PostId="8965" Score="1" Text="@decasteljau: Some guidelines are inferior to others, though your point is basically valid. @zzzzBov: Ahh, but they both are, just with different meanings of those two words (&quot;rule&quot; as &quot;something regarded as a normative example&quot;; &quot;theory&quot; as &quot;a well-substantiated explanation of some aspect of the natural world&quot; (both selected from a dictionary app on my phone)). And in fact Newtonian physics has been shown to be &quot;wrong&quot;; you get more accurate predictions with Einstein's relativity... But people still use Newton's rules because they're &quot;close enough&quot; in many situations and much easier to apply." CreationDate="2011-02-18T22:05:43.747" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12641" PostId="8975" Score="4" Text="Picking a nit: The ratio, per se, is not a myth. It has a [precise mathematical definition](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_ratio), and very much exists - if only as an abstract mathematical concept. The universality of its application could certainly be said to have achieved mythical proportions, though." CreationDate="2011-02-18T22:14:19.603" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12642" PostId="8970" Score="1" Text="The 35/1.8 DX is not a replacement for the 35/2 AF-D as it doesn't cover the imaging surface of a small format DSLR or film. " CreationDate="2011-02-18T22:39:59.270" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="12643" PostId="8967" Score="1" Text="The difference is negligible, and the adjustment to Phi from 1/3 would only be beneficial if you have a solid line (building corner or flat horizon) to place.  A human figure or a tree spanning the 1/3 line would also cross the Phi line.  In other words, any real object will likely be positioned on both lines, but if you like, err on the inside." CreationDate="2011-02-18T22:56:07.060" UserId="2447" />
  <row Id="12644" PostId="8969" Text="Also 1920x1080 at 32&quot; looks much worse than 1920x1080 at 21&quot; at normal monitor viewing distances.  You'd need to push that 32&quot; monitor further away from your face or the pixels would get distracting." CreationDate="2011-02-19T00:16:21.957" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12645" PostId="8975" Text="@lindes, thanks I've reworded it" CreationDate="2011-02-19T01:06:59.063" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12646" PostId="8977" Text="&quot;spot&quot; on! Haha I get it! ;) but ya, +1. Big sigh. :/" CreationDate="2011-02-19T01:13:28.450" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12647" PostId="8971" Text="In this case a cable to a dock :)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T01:14:27.387" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12648" PostId="8967" Score="1" Text="I use the golden section rather than the rule of thirds simply because I have noticed it does seem slightly more pleasing, though I wouldn't throw out a photo just because it doesn't fall exactly on the golden section. That being said, the golden ratio isn't really restrictive. I apply the golden section to my subject, regardless of whether the background is aligned with any particular point of the section." CreationDate="2011-02-19T01:55:32.360" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12649" PostId="8975" Text="I'm with lindes. Regardless of the fact that I know about the Golden Ratio, I do very much find composition utilising it to be more pleasing than not. A lot of the time, I find the golden ratio balances the subject matter in the frame much better than if it's just composed without any thought." CreationDate="2011-02-19T02:06:21.530" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12650" PostId="8983" Text="I disagree. This way the camera saves everything that hits the sensor, and you can accomplish with software what is difficult in the photo setting (if you don't have a white or gray paper for white balance setting.)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T04:09:28.787" UserId="3941" />
  <row Id="12651" PostId="8826" Text="@lindes: The conditions for turning it on (if you usually keep it off) or turning it off (if you usually keep it in) are subjective. The simple point is: do you need it? If you don't need it, its probably best to turn it off, since leaving it on CAN introduce undesirable outcomes. For one, it takes a moment to activate, and if it &quot;activates&quot; during an exposure, you can get blurry or double images as it suddenly moves from its centered position." CreationDate="2011-02-19T04:16:00.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12652" PostId="8988" Text="Just a thought of my own...in the thirds composition, I think it is slightly better composed since it does not have half of the other guitarist in the scene. The golden ratio version has that extra &quot;distracting&quot; element behind the lead singer, which competes for eye attention. I like the thirds composition because you look at the key subject, and there isn't anything competing for attention. If you were to zoom in a bit, and magnify the lead singer more, I think a golden ratio composition would work better." CreationDate="2011-02-19T04:32:06.493" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12653" PostId="8973" Text="I disagree that the ring is faster, I have a few old manual lenses I use from time to time, and I find the ring slower than adjusting aperture in aperture priority mode on a DSLR, or even a good compact.  Although it's fun to be able to set it manually I don't miss that at all." CreationDate="2011-02-19T04:35:37.850" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="12654" PostId="8988" Text="Good observation. Didn't think about that myself. Unfortunately that was 55mm max (17-55mm F/2.8). I'll update the answer with a couple of different shots with overlays." CreationDate="2011-02-19T04:42:17.007" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12655" PostId="8975" Score="1" Text="@Nick the point is it's nothing to do with the golden ratio itself, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a ratio of 1:1.618 and a ratio of 1:1.6, or 1:1.5 for that matter. It turns out something being three times bigger than something else looks pleasing, this has nothing to do with the solution to 1/x = x - 1  " CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:00:27.530" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12656" PostId="8975" Text="I agree, but I'm simply saying that the golden ratio is something that is tangibly *there* throughout nature, despite the fact it's just a seemingly random number. I seem to frame my shots on the golden section / spiral without thinking a lot of the time. This is my own style, but I think it's fascinating that it coincides with a frequently occurring ratio in nature." CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:04:51.190" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12657" PostId="8988" Score="10" Text="What you've got there is a classic *confirmation bias*, you find the golden ratio in the image because you want to, because you feel it's important. What's special about the singer's cheek in the first image where the lines I intersect? You could just as easily decide another facial feature was most important and fit rectangles with ratio 1:1.65, 1:1.55 etc. In fact you could pick any arbitrary ratio and draw lines on an image to make it seem important. In a proper blind trial I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference. " CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:21:12.677" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12658" PostId="8975" Text="@Nick: but I think the point is, it *doesn’t* occur in nature (nor in art, nor music, nor probably in your photography) nearly as much as the myth can lead us to think.  There are a few examples in nature (eg phyllotaxis) where it’s been plausibly demonstrated that the golden ratio itself — that exact value — really is significant.  But for many of the claimed examples, its apparent presence is largely selection bias.  It’s clear that there’s a range of numbers around that value which are objectively aesthetically preferable, and are statistically common in art. [cont’d]" CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:39:57.607" UserId="3305" />
  <row Id="12659" PostId="8918" Text="This worked perfect thanks! I finally found the aperture settings and the pictures so far look great. I'm back operating from a laptop and love how I can adjust just about everything from the computer. I'll do some more experimenting tomorrow. " CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:45:53.223" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12660" PostId="8975" Text="And the golden ratio happens to lie within that general range.  So does 1 1/2; so does √2; so do many other mathematically interesting numbers.  Within that general range, the golden ratio doesn’t actually stand out as any more common than the numbers around it — or at least that’s what people who’ve try to make unbiased collections of the data always find.  When one goes in looking for the golden ratio, it’s easy to subconsciously cherry-pick your rectangles: eg on the Parthenon, there are choices like how many steps to include, etc.  [cont’d]" CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:46:02.747" UserId="3305" />
  <row Id="12661" PostId="8975" Score="1" Text="There’s a lovely recent book “The Golden Ratio” by Mario Livio, in my opinion the best of the Golden Ratio books I’ve read.  It takes quite a skeptical approach, and debunks some of the common claims — but that, to me, make the many fascinating things which remain all the more impressive and beautiful — knowing that they really do stand up to a lot of careful scrutiny." CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:48:31.617" UserId="3305" />
  <row Id="12662" PostId="8916" Text="Yep got this down now. Even with th timer I could see movement in the tripod, but I will be soon replacing that with a heavy duty tripod that also has the ability to shoot downward, which means I can use it as a copy stand for much of the smaller work. Anyway, operating from the computer and figuring out the aperture a bit now; well I'm a lot more confident. Test shots so far came out great but I'll experiment more tomorrow. I have another week to prepare so time to read the manual and learn more about the camera, and maybe grasp some of the basics. " CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:50:10.517" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12663" PostId="8917" Text="Thanks Jam. I set it back up shooting from a computer again and very pleased I can adjust everything remotely I found I can auto focus , but then the EOS utility gives me find adjustments on the computer and is even more precise than by hand. Plus figuring out the aperture settings means I have a lot more compensation available. I'm much more confident right now and already pleased even though  haven't set up studio lights yet. Tomorrow I'm just going to take test shots with the macro vs the stock; both look great right now but I need some daylight to really check it out. " CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:55:57.577" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12664" PostId="8988" Text="@Matt: absolutely agreed!  @Nick: in the first composition, there are several very prominent vertical lines, and none of them line up with the golden ratio.  Just roughly eyeballing, I think if you set up that picture with a √2 ratio grid over it, the lines would coincide quite well with some significant features of the photograph.  On the other hand — while I think you’re overinterpreting the mathematical aspects of the composition, those are some gorgeous photos!  Lovely how you pick up on and get great results from what must have been pretty tough lighting to work with." CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:56:00.863" UserId="3305" />
  <row Id="12665" PostId="8957" Text="Thanks Maynard. I got my computer back and now knowing how to adjust the aperture I'm very pleased with initial results, even without proper lighting. I've got more leeway than I imagined, and even if I have the paintings (98% 2d) a bit off line they seem to be staying in focus. I'll be experimenting more tomorrow... " CreationDate="2011-02-19T05:59:17.873" UserId="3043" />
  <row Id="12666" PostId="8988" Text="Matt Grum, please understand I mean that the golden ratio is seemingly where I place things approximately, not the cheek all the time, not the eye, not his hand. It's just &quot;confirmationally biased&quot; coincidence that this so called golden ratio is what I naturally prefer to work with for composition, without an aid, and what has been found by mathematicians and others to be a significantly frequent occurrence. Pure coincidence, not me seeking to find the golden ratio, but seemingly that the golden ratio is what I find more satisfying, which is the fundamental trait of that ratio." CreationDate="2011-02-19T06:37:04.710" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12667" PostId="8988" Text="Think of it the way the scientific method works. Action, observation, theory, conclusion. We've found that the golden ratio is a naturally occurring ratio that is found among &quot;pleasing&quot; design. So it's no coincidence that many designers use it, photographers compose with it, etc etc." CreationDate="2011-02-19T06:38:55.720" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12668" PostId="8969" Score="1" Text="Now, if you only need 1920x1080, and you have a very deep desk, it'd be better for your eyes to get the bigger monitor and keep it further away." CreationDate="2011-02-19T06:47:11.277" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12669" PostId="8983" Text="This might be useful to someone who's shooting JPEG. If you're shooting raw, the white balance is simply an EXIF attribute, so you get the same raw information either way." CreationDate="2011-02-19T07:09:35.853" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12670" PostId="4572" Score="2" Text="the third party rubber lens hoods can be a helpful, but I find that with the multiple panes of glass/pastic as you find on airplane windows that it's usually better to just have someone hold a dark blue or black blanket against the wall just above the window and you and the camera slip under it like an old school focusing hood. It's there to block light coming into the window at all from inside and reflecting on any of the layers of window pane. (I tried to gaffer tape a blanket to the wall once, but they were less than happy about that.)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T07:42:17.153" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12671" PostId="8997" Score="7" Text="You hit the nail on the head... It's: 50% that the industry relies on efficiency for its profit margin and amateurs are simply a pain in the butt who need their hand held every step of the way, draining time and thus profit margin, 45% the fact that in most cases an amateur will never be a repeat customer, so any time spent on them is even more an unrecoverable cost, and 5% the high likelihood that the average amateur would be submitting pictures he/she doesn't have the rights to submit..." CreationDate="2011-02-19T08:07:52.153" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12672" PostId="2340" Text="Pretty sure it does not work on jpegs. :(  And if you happen to have a cluster of hot pixels, it doesn't touch them either. It seems to very specifically look for exactly one pixel with one channel at full force when the ones next to it aren't." CreationDate="2011-02-19T08:17:48.590" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12673" PostId="8954" Score="2" Text="Don't buy a cheap tripod knowing it won't be quite good enough. You'll just end up buying another one in a few months or a year's time and then you've wasted whatever the first one cost. My original budget was $300, but I'm pretty sure if I'd got it, I'd have bought the Feisol or something similar, later on, anyway and been down $800 instead of just $500." CreationDate="2011-02-19T08:23:26.107" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="12674" PostId="8975" Text="The golden ratio exists in nature as often as faces in inanimate objects. When you're looking for something, there is a tendency to find it, whether or not it's actually there." CreationDate="2011-02-19T09:27:36.390" UserId="2474" />
  <row Id="12675" PostId="534" Score="1" Text="Good explanation (+1). Can you point to a photo that exemplifies 'negative' upper left positioning?" CreationDate="2011-02-19T10:34:03.097" UserId="340" />
  <row Id="12676" PostId="8826" Text="I guess I'm just wanting your answer to more directly target this line from the original question: &quot;Except the battery draining, is there any evidence that using IS the image quality will be reduced?&quot; -- because I imagine you have plenty of good stuff to say on that front, I'm just seeing something different.  :)  More stuff like &quot;if it &quot;activates&quot; during an exposure, you can get blurry or double images&quot; -- put that sort of stuff in your answer, perhaps with more detailed explanation and/or links.  I'd write my own answer, but honestly I don't know the details all that well." CreationDate="2011-02-19T10:44:40.577" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="12677" PostId="9001" Score="1" Text="The &quot;L-disease&quot; is a form of compulsion that gets to photographers when they buy their first Canon L lens. They just can't stop and want to have them all. I'm ill too. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T10:48:14.193" UserId="3943" />
  <row Id="12678" PostId="9000" Text="it's hard to justify $600 just for a &quot;quality build&quot; w/o much gain in IQ" CreationDate="2011-02-19T11:04:28.823" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="12679" PostId="8998" Text="i'm not going to down vote you just because you gave me a lot of food for thought. +1 thanks" CreationDate="2011-02-19T11:07:59.397" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="12680" PostId="9000" Score="2" Text="If you can't appreciate the massive difference in IQ then you should definitely get the cheaper one.  &quot;If the EF-S 18-135 represents the extent of your budget, it is a good choice....reasonable f/8 image quality.....nice casual use lens for those on a tight budget&quot;  vs &quot;If I had only one lens, this would be the one....superb build, mechanical and optical quality...great optical quality...&quot;.  " CreationDate="2011-02-19T11:21:17.300" UserId="3739" />
  <row Id="12681" PostId="8960" Text="I'd love a tripod hewn from a giant slab of basalt - imagine the stability! " CreationDate="2011-02-19T11:33:43.800" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12682" PostId="8996" Score="1" Text="Or in other words, there the surface of your sensor is relative to the outside of the camera body for the reasons davr has given" CreationDate="2011-02-19T12:09:20.567" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="12683" PostId="8994" Text="That looks like a phi, not a theta." CreationDate="2011-02-19T12:11:03.940" UserId="3257" />
  <row Id="12684" PostId="8994" Score="4" Text="Actually it looks more like a plimsoll mark than any greek letter: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plimsoll_line#Load_line - When you put the camera in water, it should not sink below that line. ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T13:03:05.110" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="12685" PostId="534" Score="2" Text="@Jonik: Thanks. Here is an example of upper left positioning: http://www.guffa.com/Photo_result.asp?from=1993-10-29&amp;to=1993-10-29" CreationDate="2011-02-19T13:13:57.507" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="12686" PostId="3937" Text="It could easily be three (or four) pieces if a quick release system is part of the requirement: legs, head and QR assembly (or QR clamp and plate as separate components)." CreationDate="2011-02-19T13:17:45.947" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12687" PostId="8996" Score="6" Text="This mark is used, by the way, for calculating mostly in macrophotography. The exact distance between the subject and the film plane/sensor is used to calculate the reproduction ratio (the relative size of the subject on the sensor) and exposure compensation. (The aperture you set on the lens is relative to the focal length of the lens, which is the length of the light path when the lens is focused at infinity. At macro distances for most lenses, the effective length of the lens is longer, so the effective aperture is smaller. If you are not metering through the lens, you need to compensate.)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T16:20:17.663" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12688" PostId="9005" Text="Community Wiki, perhaps?" CreationDate="2011-02-19T17:17:35.613" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12689" PostId="8994" Score="2" Text="@Guffa: the camera does sink below that line. At least my EOS 40D did ;) " CreationDate="2011-02-19T17:39:09.050" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="12690" PostId="8996" Text="@Stan Rogers thanks for that great explanation, I was wondering who needed that precision when measuring the distance to a subject but never even thought of macro." CreationDate="2011-02-19T17:49:57.550" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="12691" PostId="9011" Score="1" Text="Came here to post that link but you beat me to it! As you can see a small scratch will probably be insignificant." CreationDate="2011-02-19T18:08:51.957" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="12692" PostId="8974" Text="@MainMa: Thanks for the comment, I've removed that part of my answer." CreationDate="2011-02-19T19:39:42.987" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="12693" PostId="9005" Score="1" Text="Duplicate? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2021/on-line-photo-challenges" CreationDate="2011-02-19T20:58:15.597" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12694" PostId="9017" Score="2" Text="Thats a neat idea!" CreationDate="2011-02-19T21:02:03.033" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12695" PostId="9017" Text="@rfusca thanks! It was all I could come up with in a pinch(no pun intended). " CreationDate="2011-02-19T22:11:41.137" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12696" PostId="8822" Score="1" Text="Your glasses are broken... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-19T22:42:22.837" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12697" PostId="9022" Text="Keep in mind that the lens in question sells for less than $300 new..." CreationDate="2011-02-19T23:06:17.250" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="12698" PostId="9022" Text="Good point, but if the lens is a more expensive one, the amount for the front element replacement is still about the same." CreationDate="2011-02-19T23:19:51.620" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12700" PostId="9028" Text="What types of photography do these agents represent? Is it commercial work, fashion, social, nature, or some combination of the above, plus others?" CreationDate="2011-02-20T01:59:18.323" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12701" PostId="9028" Text="I would suspect that the list I cited will skew towards commercial, editorial, and fashion, although I'm aware of several agencies that represent wedding photographers exclusively, and a couple that specialize in 'cause' photography. I would venture to guess (though I don't know for sure) that the representation options would be low, or non-existent for nature and landscape photography, simply because the money to be made in those two fields is miniscule compared to the rest of the genres I mentioned..." CreationDate="2011-02-20T02:05:52.137" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12702" PostId="9028" Text="BTW, the list I cited is from a website called 'APhotoEditor' (http://www.aphotoeditor.com/) and it is one of the very best resources on the business side of photography around, in my opinion..." CreationDate="2011-02-20T02:29:43.480" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12703" PostId="8973" Text="On some DSLRs the controls for aperture may be fiddly, but the more professional/enthusiast bodies have an extra dial or control of sorts to control both shutter speed and aperture separately, especially useful in manual exposure. My Canon 50D uses the quick dial for aperture and the shutter dial for shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-02-20T03:19:37.403" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12704" PostId="9027" Text="One minor proviso: in a lens that has any coma (which is all of them, of course), the circle may be rather (or even quite) non-circular toward the corners of the picture, especially if (or example) produced by a high-contrast point of light." CreationDate="2011-02-20T05:50:15.243" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="12705" PostId="8983" Text="You're right! I never realized that -- I just tried it." CreationDate="2011-02-20T06:36:17.550" UserId="3941" />
  <row Id="12706" PostId="9031" Score="1" Text="Duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1783/how-to-focus-in-complete-darkness" CreationDate="2011-02-20T06:56:28.150" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12707" PostId="1885" Text="Your &quot;no light focusing&quot; is really just an extreme of &quot;low light focusing&quot;. If there were truly no light, any picture you take would be black except for noise and dead pixels." CreationDate="2011-02-20T06:58:53.543" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12708" PostId="9031" Text="Recomend closing as dup..." CreationDate="2011-02-20T07:44:27.263" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12709" PostId="8578" Text="@lindes: Good thought. Yep, I shoot RAW..." CreationDate="2011-02-20T07:47:58.913" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12710" PostId="1885" Text="Technicalities aside, Evan. One thing is that if the Moon is present, I've used that to focus on the sky then move the camera back into position." CreationDate="2011-02-20T08:07:33.280" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="12711" PostId="9033" Text="So, all other things being equal, should a lens of the same spec and price be better quality in EF-S compared to EF?" CreationDate="2011-02-20T09:54:55.943" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12713" PostId="8822" Text="[YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!](http://epiconeliner.com/)" CreationDate="2011-02-20T11:02:01.213" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12714" PostId="8820" Text="Small mirrors work pretty well for this too, and lose less light. You're less likely to be handed a small mirror by a stranger, though." CreationDate="2011-02-20T11:04:10.150" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12715" PostId="8820" Score="1" Text="Is this picture yours? Looks like it was taken from http://www.photogeek.ru/groups/portrait/223.html, so there may be a copyright issue." CreationDate="2011-02-20T11:07:24.560" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12716" PostId="9033" Text="@fmark - not necessarily. First, I think it is quite hard, if not impossible, to find lenses of same spec and price (by spec, I mean the *equivalent* focal length). Then, you say &quot;all other things being equal&quot; - what do you expect to change, then?" CreationDate="2011-02-20T11:20:29.830" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12717" PostId="9033" Score="1" Text="@fmark - theoretically, it should be cheaper to build an EF-S lens (as Guffa explained), so for the same money, you could, theoretically, build a better lens of the same equivalent focal length and aperture." CreationDate="2011-02-20T11:23:20.327" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12718" PostId="8933" Text="By popular convention, magnification is per @Shizam's explanation. @jrista, I am afraid the final part of your anser, as well as you follow up comment is irrelevant for the original question. Once you add the enlargement factor into the equation, then the sensor size/resolution is just the 1st link in the chain (followed by the LCD, the monitor, the crop (zoom) factor, the print size), and the number of possible magnifications is basically unlimited." CreationDate="2011-02-20T11:35:34.330" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12722" PostId="9024" Score="5" Text="Short answer: &quot;A great name for a beginner's photo club.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-20T15:27:22.480" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="12723" PostId="8800" Text="I extended his parser myself but only have managed to get it reading Canon and Panasonic makernote sections so far. (my knowledge of the IFD format is poor at best). I need to give him proper credit for his work on my site since it is mostly his work. When I am happy with my edits I will send it back to him as a possible improvement/alternative version." CreationDate="2011-02-20T16:00:16.780" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="12724" PostId="9035" Text="+1 for the interesting notes of hacking (literally) the EF-s mount." CreationDate="2011-02-20T16:05:34.567" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="12725" PostId="6629" Text="You get the &quot;checkmark&quot; for the link to the &quot;Exposure Triangle&quot; question as that provided a link for me to learn more about these things.  Thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-20T17:17:59.067" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="12726" PostId="9027" Score="1" Text="Another &quot;point&quot; to remember is that lenses can't focus perfectly, so even at the plane of focus a point is resolved as a dot and the size of that dot is known as the circle of least confusion. This puts a kind of a limit on the useful resolving power of both film and digital sensors." CreationDate="2011-02-20T18:01:55.343" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="12727" PostId="8800" Text="Nice to hear that someone else is interested in extending Jacob's parsers. I've been musing a while about converting his mp3 and exif parser into an extensible javascript file parsing framework... something like an &quot;exiftool.js&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-20T18:07:05.120" UserId="3866" />
  <row Id="12728" PostId="9036" Score="4" Text="Have you considered increasing the ISO speed (if possible)? Noisy pictures tend to be more useful than blurry pictures, and you will have more opportunities to try to fix them in post-processing. (Instead of using the &quot;P&quot; mode, you might also try to use the &quot;sports mode&quot; so that the camera tries to use a faster shutter speed, which would minimise the motion blur.)" CreationDate="2011-02-20T18:29:52.537" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="12729" PostId="9040" Text="Whoops!  You seem to be missing half your answer." CreationDate="2011-02-20T19:07:38.940" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="12730" PostId="9040" Text="He he... I started writing, then left the laptop at the middle for about an hour, and now I see that the answer is posted... maybe the kid pressed the enter???!!?!?!?" CreationDate="2011-02-20T19:29:57.990" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12731" PostId="8933" Text="@yeap: Assume &quot;native&quot; print size, or viewing either an image on-screen or in print at its original pixel size. I figure it is also safe to assume either one of two standard screen DPI's, 72 or 96.  Without any modification to the image, only sensor statistics matter. As for relevance...I disagree with your statement. We don't take pictures to view them on camera, nor do we take pictures with &quot;how large on sensor&quot; they are. We take pictures to VIEW them...either on screen or in print. As such, I think the final native image size and content of that image DOES matter when talking magnification." CreationDate="2011-02-20T19:59:49.893" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12732" PostId="8958" Text="I think your missing my point. It is only possible to achieve 1:1 magnification *at the minimum focus distance*. That means that you are projecting a specific image circle of a subject, and there are no alternative framing options to accommodate different sensor sizes. If you project a 2cm subject 2cm onto the image circle, the FF sensor is ultimately capturing less detail of the full subject, where as the APS-C is capturing more detail of part of the subject. If you reframe the FF to match the APS-C, you are no longer projecting a 1:1 image circle, since you are beyond the MFD of the lens." CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:05:28.513" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12733" PostId="8958" Text="Yea, while we were discussing it yesterday in chat it came out that you were keeping FoV constant and I was not which led to some confusion.  But again, since I'm interpreting the question from a purely optical standpoint ('allow the lens to magnify 1:1') FoV is irrelevant as is the pixel density of the sensor.  So I think we're both right within the bounds of our own interpretation of the question." CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:16:57.900" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12734" PostId="9024" Score="1" Text="IMO, there is no direct application of CoC on day-to-day photography." CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:31:58.983" UserId="3989" />
  <row Id="12735" PostId="9027" Text="@Jerry - Yes, I know. Just keeping things simple for the sake of shortness as it does not affect DOF." CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:38:51.447" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12736" PostId="9049" Text="Are there any limitations in metering or other compatibility with the older lenses?" CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:18:18.350" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12737" PostId="9049" Text="@mattdm - No, as long as we are talking about Maxxum/Dynax/Alpha lenses. Minolta had an older mount which predates AF, which is completely incompatible." CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:24:41.470" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12738" PostId="9046" Text="This is what I've been doing, and it's still quite slow and frustrating. Both places and faces are nearly unusably slow, even on powerful hardware. I'd much prefer to assign via a preset and avoid the slower places UI." CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:48:53.233" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="12739" PostId="9047" Text="This is exactly what I do if I'm walking around and shooting, and it works great for that. But what I really want is to assign a specific place to is have a handful of presets I can quickly assign, which would cover a large percentage of my shooting." CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:51:17.677" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="12740" PostId="9052" Text="Don't worry, my Minolta still works :-p" CreationDate="2011-02-20T22:12:50.503" UserId="3990" />
  <row Id="12741" PostId="9050" Text="I can only accept one answer, thanks for insight though. I would +1 if I could." CreationDate="2011-02-20T22:15:14.463" UserId="3990" />
  <row Id="12742" PostId="9054" Text="That's very interesting, but I'm still unclear on the precise answer to the question. Why were early film speeds 6, and not 60? Was it entirely arbitrary (e.g. in log scales like decibels or the richter scale, 0 is often set to an arbitrary point), or is there a principled meaning behind the number (e.g. a ratio)?  " CreationDate="2011-02-20T22:56:56.367" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="12743" PostId="9054" Score="4" Text="It's from the units in use to measure the light. The numbers are exactly 1/x in the original units, rounded to the nearest integer, for the very early low-speed films (single digit speeds). Standard speeds were one-third stop extensions from those values as the size of the numbers increased -- a film that measured at 130 would be rounded down to 125." CreationDate="2011-02-20T23:06:45.133" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12744" PostId="9058" Text="Ahhh, I though they put it on the hot-shoe because of power-supply reason. So I guess the sender has a battery. Thanks for that!" CreationDate="2011-02-20T23:24:40.903" UserId="3991" />
  <row Id="12745" PostId="9045" Text="Does it have to be in Aperture?  You could use something like exif (http://www.sourceforge.net/projects/libexif) or exiv2 (http://www.exiv2.org) and write a simple shell script (or AppleScript) to add those locations." CreationDate="2011-02-20T23:39:37.267" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12746" PostId="9058" Score="1" Text="Just for the sake of completeness -- this is the perfect application for one of those rinky-dink little &quot;flash brackets&quot; (you know the ones) that are so cheap, flimsy and small that they're completely useless for an actual flash. I used to use one for the auto thyristor sensor for a slaved flash when using on-camera flash for fill." CreationDate="2011-02-21T00:38:00.137" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12747" PostId="9053" Text="Actually I wish we did have consistent precision. Both shutter-speed and aperture stops are rounded without consistency and whenever it comes to implementing exposure-related tools, I always have to map convenient numbers to actual numbers before computing anything. Well, I do understand that from a photographer's perspective, this may not be relevant." CreationDate="2011-02-21T02:48:52.517" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12748" PostId="9059" Text="Out of 311 current cameras, only 24 feature a wireless (infrared actually) remote sensor, so I would say it is far from *most*." CreationDate="2011-02-21T02:52:54.727" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12749" PostId="7477" Score="2" Text="FTR I'm pretty sure it's &quot;aperture value&quot; and &quot;time value&quot;, not &quot;variable&quot;, because in these modes, that's the factor that's _fixed_, not variable." CreationDate="2011-02-21T03:48:58.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12750" PostId="7495" Score="1" Text="@jrista: why do you say that it means &quot;... variable&quot;? I just looked in the manual for the Canon 7D, and it says &quot;&lt;Av&gt; stands for Aperture value&quot;....." CreationDate="2011-02-21T03:52:38.553" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12751" PostId="9054" Text="From reading the Wikipedia articles and references, I think the units are actually lux seconds, which are a standard SI unit." CreationDate="2011-02-21T04:02:18.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12752" PostId="9054" Score="1" Text="Those are the units used *now*, but note that there is now a 0.8 as the &quot;reciprocal&quot; numerator rather than 1 (as it once was). I remember some oddness to do with foot-lamberts on the standard target, but don't hold me to it." CreationDate="2011-02-21T04:05:51.660" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12753" PostId="9053" Text="But the difference between ISO 25,600 and ISO 25k is less than 3.4% of a stop. That's going to be overwhelmed by other factors. It's truly false precision." CreationDate="2011-02-21T04:07:21.137" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12754" PostId="9045" Score="1" Text="Somebody really needs to do something about that product name (with armed backup, if necessary) -- the question title had me imagining a sort of GPS-controlled aperture-priority setup, and baffled as to who might find that sort of thing useful." CreationDate="2011-02-21T04:43:07.613" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12755" PostId="7495" Text="My Canon manual used the term &quot;variable&quot;, and many of the books I've read use the same term (others are based on Nikon gear, which seems to use A and S for the same things.) It makes logical sense, given that when set to that mode, you have the control to &quot;vary&quot; a setting. If you are using Av, the Aperture is a *variable* setting controlled by a dial, and the same goes for Tv. " CreationDate="2011-02-21T05:08:00.177" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12756" PostId="9042" Text="Well put, and an important point about sensor sizes." CreationDate="2011-02-21T05:23:06.470" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12757" PostId="3957" Text="@Matt Grum: Which is to say that you didn't mention the APS-H sensor :-). Also, now we are going to have the 600D which is pretty similar to the 60D." CreationDate="2011-02-21T05:29:04.983" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12758" PostId="9041" Score="1" Text="+1 for developing a website devoted to the lens!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T06:24:30.560" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12759" PostId="8820" Text="@evan-krall Look closely, the image titled with &quot;Picture taken from itc.ua/articles/ukroshhenie_pyha_38463&quot;. And yes - this picture is not mine." CreationDate="2011-02-21T06:24:51.823" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="12760" PostId="9047" Text="Then I suggest the Picasa way - this is what I do in Picasa - I select all the pics I want to geotag and then simply geotag them all in one go. Haven't found a better way yet." CreationDate="2011-02-21T06:54:48.597" UserId="3989" />
  <row Id="12761" PostId="9059" Text="@Itai - This is certainly surprising. Do you include all P&amp;S in this count? If so, then definitely I am biased towards the bigger cameras. The OP talks about a camera with a hot-shoe that has a socket for a cable release. I assumed this is a SLR or a bridge compact. Do you suggest that out of these only the minority can be triggered optically? What camera has a cable release but no IR sensor? " CreationDate="2011-02-21T07:15:30.327" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12762" PostId="9061" Text="I think you're asking multiple questions here about what affects final image quality: (1) sensor size, (2) sensor materials, and (3) lenses.  If you could separate out your questions (either with bullet points or separate questions) you might get better answers *since each of these affect image quality in different ways.*" CreationDate="2011-02-21T08:02:44.690" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12763" PostId="9064" Text="If I could, I'd give you an extra +1 for bringing up post-processing." CreationDate="2011-02-21T08:03:23.270" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12764" PostId="9065" Score="3" Text="Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6943/how-do-i-copyright-my-photographs" CreationDate="2011-02-21T08:13:56.883" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12765" PostId="9061" Text="Edited in a better way. Thanks for suggestion." CreationDate="2011-02-21T08:34:01.880" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="12766" PostId="9042" Text="@jrista: Thanks.  I've remembered an occurrence of &quot;nearly phi&quot;: the ratio of the mile to the kilometre is 1.609 which is pretty close to phi!  Also, while writing this answer I decided that since cropping is possible, it's the size of the final image that is more important than the sensor size.  I'm tempted to put up an online quiz with lots of boxes asking if people can tell which are divided up by the 1/3rds ratio and which by the golden ratio - would make an interesting survey!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T08:40:07.760" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="12767" PostId="7676" Text="Just look at the photo pool in any of Flickr's fast prime groups. 99% of them don't need sharp corners, but being soft in the central portion would be a big issue. It's not an assumption - there are a few people out there who really need that corner sharpness in a small fraction of their photos, but statistically, most people never need it. And if that can save you thousands, it's worth knowing." CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:03:53.707" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="12768" PostId="8966" Text="When it did work it was pretty handy for grabbing onto random objects but the gorilla pods I have had for smaller cameras eventually became weak and wobbly so I wouldn't want to buy another one for a bigger camera." CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:28:25.557" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12769" PostId="8956" Score="1" Text="Yeah the wobble is fairly noticeable, but it could be the viaduct that is wobbling with the vehicles travelling by. If it's just the tripod then tat is pretty wobbly!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:30:41.297" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12770" PostId="8954" Text="That is a very good point. I'll try and think like that, to make sure I don't spend more money in the long run." CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:33:14.337" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12771" PostId="8953" Text="@kloucks The tripod-head combo you are using sounds pretty good, I think that is probably what I am after. I might use a slightly different head which has a horizontal grip instead. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:37:19.353" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="12772" PostId="8684" Text="@Stan You might consider upgrading your comment to an answer; a cheap tracking mount isn't an expensive tracking mount, so it's perfectly valid." CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:38:01.117" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12773" PostId="8684" Text="Well, if it hadn't come from the person asking the question, my intrinsic laziness would have gotten in the way. Consider the text moved." CreationDate="2011-02-21T09:41:43.893" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12774" PostId="9065" Text="and answered there, albeit exclusively in a US context.&#xA;For other countries, the law is different, though it is now true in most cases that explicit copyright registration is not a requirement to own copyright on your work." CreationDate="2011-02-21T10:00:26.033" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12775" PostId="8953" Text="not exactly a lightweight combo :)&#xA;A lighter weight alternative that's still sturdy would be a Manfrotto 190CLB. I use both, but the 190 gets used a lot more often when I need to travel any distance from my car." CreationDate="2011-02-21T10:14:20.427" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12776" PostId="9022" Text="I'd expect the front element for a professional grade lens to be more expensive than one for an entry level lens.&#xA;Unless of course that replacement service uses the same grade front elements for all their work in which case I'd want to know what grade. Putting a Quantaray front element on a $10.000 Nikkor isn't going to do that Nikkor much good." CreationDate="2011-02-21T10:18:56.220" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12777" PostId="9021" Text="also, working b2b exclusively can cut down on the paperwork for corporate tax returns (non salestax etc.)" CreationDate="2011-02-21T10:20:44.753" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12778" PostId="9054" Score="1" Text="Awesome answer. It's great to have people with such a wealth of knowledge around here!   Thanks, @Stan." CreationDate="2011-02-21T10:33:47.130" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="12780" PostId="3513" Text="precisely. i have an f1.8 lens, and as i usually shoot close up; the DoF at short focusing distances is already ridiculously thin. i end up stopping it down to be able to focus a nose and the corresponding face at the same time. i've shot with an f1.2 lens, and i really don't find that aperture very usable. it's hard work! the option of using it is great, but f1.4 or 1.8 is already thin enough for day to day photography." CreationDate="2011-02-21T11:49:40.373" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12781" PostId="9073" Text="Yeah, heads are important. But good ones can be expensive." CreationDate="2011-02-21T12:28:43.180" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12782" PostId="9072" Text="Great question, I've been wondering this myself ever since I got my camera and found getting in close to things tough." CreationDate="2011-02-21T12:32:14.093" UserId="2806" />
  <row Id="12783" PostId="9069" Score="2" Text="Actually, Canon in particular is notorious for introducing the cool new stuff in their next-to-top camera models, not in the top of line line models. The big guns tend to lag half a generation behind; they seem to want to prove that the stuff works in the advanced-amateur segment before throwing it at the professionals." CreationDate="2011-02-21T12:40:39.687" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12784" PostId="9041" Text="Thanks Wayne for the reply, I am definitely getting it! I would also recommend anyone &amp; everyone to pop by his website www.sigma85mm.com to take a look at the pics taken using this lens, you will be impressed with it! " CreationDate="2011-02-21T12:42:58.857" UserId="3788" />
  <row Id="12785" PostId="9022" Score="1" Text="Right, but the front element is usually the least expensive. It only costs a few hundred dollars to fix even on some of the top of the line glass, as I understand." CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:02:27.693" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12786" PostId="9079" Text="It could be that, here is an image I took, https://picasaweb.google.com/neon1024/TestwoodLakes#5575831054259189618 - do you think the contrast could be off? That's post Lightroom though!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:39:46.900" UserId="2806" />
  <row Id="12787" PostId="9046" Text="@ieure: You do not need to use the places UI. You can be in the &quot;browser&quot; mode (thumbnail view); select a bunch of photos; click &quot;Metadata / Assign Location...&quot;, select the pre-defined location from the list, click &quot;Assign&quot;. It is very quick, especially if you assign a keyboard shortcut to this function. (You don't need to wait while it is loading and updating the map display in the dialog box, just select the location from the list.)" CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:42:42.243" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="12788" PostId="9046" Score="1" Text="@ieure: Regarding &quot;unusably slow, even on powerful hardware&quot;: How much RAM do you have? A fast CPU does not help much; you really need a *lot* of memory. 2 GB of RAM is far too little. 8 GB of RAM seems to make it usable." CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:44:01.247" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="12789" PostId="9046" Score="1" Text="@ieure: If you really want to avoid the &quot;places&quot; function, yet another option is to use the lift &amp; stamp tools. You can select a picture that is already correctly tagged, lift metadata (uncheck everything except the GPS coordinates), and then stamp metadata." CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:45:43.710" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="12790" PostId="9059" Text="@yasp - Excuse my lack of imagination ;) you said *most cameras* so simply wanted to dispel that. There are 70 current cameras with hot-shoe (http://www.neocamera.com/search_camera.php?hotshoe=1) and **only 18 have wireless remote sensors** (see bottom of Refine Result box on page linked above). **40 of them support a wired remote**, keep in mind that some models support both, so the number of cameras with neither is greater than 12." CreationDate="2011-02-21T13:57:18.360" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12791" PostId="9079" Text="I could certainly see that being the issue. The edge of the lake or or the white tree above the bridge have good contrast, but most of the wooded are does not.  This scene might be a good time to focus manually." CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:23:37.567" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12792" PostId="9079" Text="Also, at the settings used in your example (f/10 and 5mm lens) the hyperfocal distance is 52 ft.  That said, it looks like the edge of the water is probably not to far off from that, so you could use that as your focus point and everything should be in decent focus." CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:28:32.870" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12793" PostId="2578" Text="@Matt: I belive that depends on whether people (and manufacturers) prefer noise characteristics or megapixels. Who'd need 300Mpix anyway? I was able to shoot http://i.imgur.com/fg1QZ.jpg handheld at 1/20 sec, f/5 and ISO 2000, with acceptable (at least for me) per-pixel sharpness and noise levels, without lugging tripod around. It's entirely possible that this kind of image quality would not be acceptable for you, so I guess that in the end this is a matter of what compromises you're willing to make." CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:38:36.123" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="12794" PostId="9060" Text="Related to: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/325/how-can-i-know-what-speed-card-to-get-for-my-camera" CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:45:59.663" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12795" PostId="9060" Text="Possible Duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/710/what-memory-card-should-i-be-using-for-my-canon-t2i-camera" CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:46:25.403" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12796" PostId="3117" Text="+1 for a D200 or D300 (which is still in production afaik).&#xA;I own a D200 and it's a dream to use. Were I looking for another DSLR right now I'd not hesitate to buy one if it were in good condition and had low activation count (do check that, some pro Nikons get very heavy use, hundreds of thousands of activations are not unheard of and will reduce the remaining life of the camera)." CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:47:13.373" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12797" PostId="3118" Text="don't agree. For someone who's serious about their photography, a D40 will soon see them running into the limitations of their body. And of course it accepts only the more expensive AF-S style lenses, reducing the choice of lenses available." CreationDate="2011-02-21T14:50:04.587" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12798" PostId="1955" Text="Related Question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/710/what-sdhc-memory-card-should-i-be-using-for-my-dslr-camera" CreationDate="2011-02-21T15:20:38.477" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12799" PostId="710" Text="Some answers were merged from: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4902/best-card-for-canon-550d-hd-video" CreationDate="2011-02-21T15:53:30.020" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12800" PostId="9059" Text="@Itai - I stand corrected, and definitely surprised. I'll fix my post to reflect that, replacing &quot;most&quot; with &quot;many&quot;." CreationDate="2011-02-21T16:17:15.937" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12801" PostId="9059" Text="I think that search is incomplete. The Nikon D7000 has wireless infrared support, for example." CreationDate="2011-02-21T17:01:43.063" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12802" PostId="867" Text="There's a short but useful section on using the zone system with dslrs in Michael Freeman's _Perfect Exposure_. http://www.focalpress.com/books/photography/michael_freeman39s_perfect_exposure.aspx" CreationDate="2011-02-21T17:04:43.233" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12803" PostId="9058" Text="@Stan Rogers hits nail on head - if your local camera stor has used equipment for sale you can often pick up an appropriate &quot;flash bracket&quot; used for about $10" CreationDate="2011-02-21T17:39:19.453" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12804" PostId="9081" Text="You ask for an online app, then you mention PS Elements, which is an offline app?" CreationDate="2011-02-21T17:58:20.117" UserId="36" />
  <row Id="12805" PostId="9095" Text="Related Question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9077/cant-auto-focus-at-full-zoom" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:06:24.810" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12806" PostId="9084" Text="Lame, I tried exporting the plugin to a file and reading it in a text editor.  I can make out some things, but not everything, and its not terribly easy :)" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:11:46.520" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12807" PostId="663" Score="2" Text="This idea is good for exposure but bad for colour balance, which seems to be an important concern for the OP" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:52:57.803" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12808" PostId="9092" Text="check this fact sheet from Ilford http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200621612182416.pdf" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:56:54.617" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12809" PostId="9092" Text="and check this fact sheet on liquid developers  http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20073211236917.pdf " CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:01:10.443" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12810" PostId="9056" Text="Why don't you post this as a question in its own right and link to this thread for background information?  That would better fit this site's aim of keeping each thread clean and focused." CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:22:01.303" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12811" PostId="9024" Text="&quot;No direct application&quot; apart from informing our choices of sensor, lens, aperture settings, post-processing techniques (like sharpening methods), and amount of enlargement!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:26:21.793" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12812" PostId="7477" Text="@mattdm, it depends on the context. If you talk about 1/200 Tv then it is Time value. But, if you are referring to the dial setting, Tv means  vary the Time (shutter speed), while keeping the Aperture constant. So to think of Tv as meaning Time variable is a useful memnonic to mean vary the Time. So when, for example, I set the dial to Av, I know immediately  that the Aperture is the variable quantity. This, at least is true on my camera, a Pentax K7" CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:28:22.003" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12813" PostId="7477" Text="Really? On my K-7, in Av, the aperture stays constant at what I set it to and the shutter speed varies. And in Tv, the shutter speed stays the same and the aperture changes freely depending on the metering. " CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:42:23.547" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12814" PostId="9086" Score="1" Text="+1 on the problem being more likely on the playback side. Lots of computers can't cope with full on HD video streams, and lots of computers have very slow SD card access." CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:45:01.763" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12815" PostId="7477" Text="@mattdm, I hate to argue with someone who owns such a fine camera :) But it seems to me we are saying the same thing but attaching different meaning to words. When I say 'Tv means vary the Time)', I mean that I, the photographer, am varying, or controlling the time. You use the word 'set' the time while I use the word 'vary' the time. We both mean that the time is actively controlled by the photographer but use different verbs to describe the action. We both agree that the camera chooses a resultant Aperture. Which is variable? I have defined variable to be the quantity I actively control." CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:10:14.820" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12816" PostId="7477" Text="Or, to be mathematical about it, in the case of Tv, I mean that Time is the independent variable and Aperture is the dependent variable. But it is is all about the definition you can relate to. The definition I have chosen is the one which seems to have immediate mnemonic value (for me)." CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:20:09.363" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12817" PostId="9046" Score="1" Text="@Jukka, I have 8gb of RAM in a quad-core 2.8ghz iMac. I don’t have much problems with the import/adjust/export workflow, but Faces and Places consistently beachball for extended periods of time." CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:28:05.600" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="12818" PostId="9067" Text="I use the same application, but as I mentioned in other comments, I really want to quickly assign fixed places." CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:29:48.080" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="12819" PostId="9095" Text="Without a frame of reference, your eyes don't easily auto-focus to a large white wall either" CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:38:44.003" UserId="398" />
  <row Id="12820" PostId="9106" Score="1" Text="+1 for the autofocus aid light." CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:46:26.060" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="12821" PostId="9109" Text="Excellent, many thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T22:06:51.870" UserId="3811" />
  <row Id="12822" PostId="9104" Text="+1 great example and awesome gallery links." CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:09:15.893" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12824" PostId="9114" Score="5" Text="This question is well stated in the last paragraph.  The first five paragraphs are tangential and distracting.  Consider condensing them (or eliminating them entirely) to keep potential readers interested." CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:35:03.353" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12825" PostId="9064" Text="+1 for the final paragraph." CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:40:45.973" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="12826" PostId="9114" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the site!" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:41:55.693" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12827" PostId="9116" Score="1" Text="is this allowed? disclosure of affiliation with a suggested website seems reasonable, but coupons seems to stretch into propaganda realm, no? It's very nice to offer discounts, but sort of...&quot;wrong&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:57:48.170" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="12828" PostId="7805" Text="The longer the focal length, the less effect it will have on infinity focus." CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:09:23.993" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="12829" PostId="9010" Score="1" Text="Yeah, I think that answer is pretty much there now, Jeff - you can stop polishing it :)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:21:39.613" UserId="3739" />
  <row Id="12830" PostId="1085" Text="@Guffa Seems the Ladys not for jumping..." CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:24:41.413" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12831" PostId="9114" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the community, D.N. - I disagree with whuber. I find the background stories (here and other's) interesting and contributing to the understanding of the complete picture (pun intended). I believe that we should be more forgiving to newcomers, and as the participants get more familiar with the forum, questions will get more concise naturally." CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:28:35.357" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12832" PostId="9114" Text="I'm a member of a few other stackexchange sites, so I'm familiar with the system and how things should be written.  Honestly, I thought the backstory was helpful in explaining my rationale, much as ysap says.  But I can see whuber's point, so I'll probably move the last paragraph to the beginning." CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:36:19.637" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12833" PostId="9022" Score="2" Text="Wow, this is really making me feel better about not using any UV filters on my lenses for protection.  A UV filter, even multicoated, produces a noticeable effect in many pictures.  Given that a lens scratch usually produces no noticeable effect, and even if it does it can be replaced for a couple of hundred dollars (less than the total I've spent on filters), you're a mug if you put a filter on in general use just for protecting the lens." CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:58:27.463" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12834" PostId="9116" Text="I have removed the link." CreationDate="2011-02-22T01:05:46.727" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="12835" PostId="9114" Text="Putting said paragraph in a quote environment would also be helpful, however I agree with ysap, don't axe the other stuff. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T01:43:53.043" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12836" PostId="9114" Text="I would also recommend this highly relevant question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8337/how-do-you-find-a-location-to-set-up-a-photo-exhibition" CreationDate="2011-02-22T01:45:10.530" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="12838" PostId="9114" Text="&quot;I hate going into photo galleries where the artist has over-saturated or otherwise over-manipulated the images to the point of nausea.&quot; I agree 100%!!!  That's legitimate art, but I much prefer realism." CreationDate="2011-02-22T02:55:37.817" UserId="3941" />
  <row Id="12839" PostId="9114" Text="Yes, that's a good way of putting it.  I want my photos to be realistic, minimally processed, and about the content more than the vibrance of the colors.  Sometimes I get lucky and capture more vibrance than I anticipated (see my submission for this week), but usually I'm fine with just some basic contrast.  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:05:16.460" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12840" PostId="9123" Text="Looks like a pretty cool site.  I actually designed a website for a photographer using PHP several years ago, with full functionality sans e-commerce.  She has since migrated to Zenfolio, but I think I still have the source code somewhere.  However, it's one thing to have a site and another to get people to it... I'd be interested in what others use for printing larger than 8x12 at a reasonable quality and price." CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:17:49.777" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12841" PostId="9123" Text="I would imagine for larger than 8X12 most are using a professional print service like Bay Photo or such." CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:41:50.073" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12842" PostId="7477" Text="@labnut: yeah, if it works for you I should not argue. :) It just seems backwards to _me_." CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:47:53.747" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12843" PostId="9108" Text="possible duplicate of [Choosing a prime lens for APS-C: 50mm or 35mm?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6166/choosing-a-prime-lens-for-aps-c-50mm-or-35mm)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T04:15:09.740" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12844" PostId="9076" Text="Assuming that this - http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-70-200mm-f-4.0-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx - is the lens you recommend (without IS), how much of an impact will the lack of Image Stabilization have versus the lenses in question? From the review, it seems that the general image quality would be far superior to either. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T05:22:18.047" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12845" PostId="9127" Text="&#xA;*OK, busted... This would make it a 6-way reflector, but often these products swap out one of the previous 5 options for black, and since we're here anyway, why not shoot for completeness in the answer. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T06:44:13.607" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12846" PostId="9102" Text="Pyro's also what took a lot of people out of the darkroom -- you can develop a really severe allergy to it. And Ansel Adams was an HC-110 kind of guy later in life." CreationDate="2011-02-22T07:01:08.937" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12847" PostId="9124" Text="Logically I can't think of any reason this should help, other than placebo effect.  See Itai's reply above - if the card is too slow then the camera will stop recording." CreationDate="2011-02-22T07:03:10.050" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12848" PostId="9131" Text="only reason I can give to use a cheap lens is if you're going into an environment where you'll be a very short period of time yet it would destroy any lens.&#xA;For the few shots you'd take before throwing it away, no need to waste money on quality glass.&#xA;But how many of us regularly shoot in such environments?" CreationDate="2011-02-22T08:13:13.247" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12849" PostId="9130" Text="Thank you for the nice example on colour rendering on the 50mm f1.4 vs f1.8" CreationDate="2011-02-22T08:20:39.593" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12851" PostId="9131" Text="I'm trying to quantify the &quot;better&quot; optics bit of premium lenses. The sharpness is one of the easiest to visualize aspects in this regard (as I've already noted in my question). However, I'm looking for their performance on other aspects like colour rendering, glare etc (@ysap has provided a nice example) - some of which can be overcome through better technique." CreationDate="2011-02-22T08:38:12.410" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12852" PostId="9135" Text="The question in this case is how do I determine the required size to crop the image? Say, I have an image taken at 18mm and I want to visualize the 50, 100 &amp; 200 mm crops, then what should I be doing?" CreationDate="2011-02-22T08:41:58.257" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12853" PostId="9135" Score="5" Text="For 50mm, the crop dimensions would be (18/50)*x, where x is the width or the height of the image in pixels." CreationDate="2011-02-22T08:58:26.503" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12854" PostId="9136" Score="6" Text="There ought to be a way to give more up-votes. Count me among the former pros -- it absolutely ruined a perfectly good hobby for me. It was a good ten years after getting out of the business before I could stomach picking up a camera again. I intend to sell again, but on a *fine art* kind of basis -- if people buy, cool, but I'm not chasing bucks or making pictures *for* anybody ever again." CreationDate="2011-02-22T09:41:35.983" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12855" PostId="9137" Text="I've seen very sad individuals carry around cheap knockoff lenses they had painted white so as to look like something more expensive :)&#xA;Of course for the professional there are aftermarket sleeves to hide the white exterior (especially important for nature photographers)." CreationDate="2011-02-22T10:42:32.947" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12856" PostId="9076" Text="Yes, that is the one. There is an IS version too but it is far more expensive. IS is useful in that it lets you use a slower shutter speed than otherwise. With a 70-200 at the long end, I'd want to keep at least 1/400 second shutter speed without stabilization... at f/4 this obviously puts some limits on the photographer, you need a lot of light or a high ISO. On moving subjects you may want to use a shutter speed this fast anyway, to freeze subject motion, this means that the lack of IS is no loss in this situation. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T12:12:58.540" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12857" PostId="9076" Text="(continued, ran out of comment space:) So... while the lack of IS means that some pictures cannot be taken with this lens, the ones that can be are likely to be a better than with the other lenses." CreationDate="2011-02-22T12:13:14.763" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12858" PostId="9136" Score="3" Text="This advice generally extends to most creative fields, many chefs find themselves in similar positions after being in the biz awhile." CreationDate="2011-02-22T12:35:45.563" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12859" PostId="9141" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [How do I generate high quality prints with an ink jet printer?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T12:51:53.017" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12860" PostId="9140" Text="+1 for Autofocus. Depending on what you shoot this can be a deciding factor." CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:24:19.250" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="12861" PostId="9131" Text="most of those things are hard to quantify. But consider that higher grade lenses, like higher grade filters, will have better and more expensive multi layer coatings while cheaper lenses may have only single layer coatings (and maybe none at all on internal elements).&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:33:55.257" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12862" PostId="9122" Score="1" Text="thanks @thomasrutter. i am thrilled to read your answer. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:42:22.823" UserId="3932" />
  <row Id="12863" PostId="8922" Text="Good questions! Yes. Yes. No. No. I tried #3 with different lenses but I was unable to find anything. I then went back to my old lens and I couldn't reproduce the problem. I need to set aside some time for experimenting." CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:46:16.843" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="12864" PostId="9136" Score="1" Text="Very good point.  I definitely don't want this to consume me, I am just looking for the occasional sale here and there to provide some &quot;lunch money.&quot;  Just a little income, not my main gig." CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:48:13.517" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12868" PostId="9146" Text="Canon EF has a flange distance of 44mm. FD has 42mm, plus the thickness of the adapter... this may be enough info to work something out but I don't have the math for it :)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T14:48:49.843" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12871" PostId="9024" Text="I know you've gotten suspicious looks for asking questions before ;) but it is great to see someone with so much experience still willing ask questions and learn. First rate people always want to learn more." CreationDate="2011-02-22T15:08:22.153" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12874" PostId="7963" Text="Also see this answer http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer/1716#1716 for some comments on the human vision system and resolution as it relates to making prints." CreationDate="2011-02-22T16:10:20.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12875" PostId="9142" Score="1" Text="Or if your printer supplies a specific print profile use that rather than sRGB/AdobeRGB." CreationDate="2011-02-22T16:48:20.747" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12877" PostId="9152" Text="Also, for more explanation on ppi, jrista has a good answer written: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/456/image-size-vs-print-size/461#461" CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:04:15.957" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="12878" PostId="9152" Text="... and, depending on the image content, it might survive a *good* upscaling to be printed at the equivalent of 100 original pixels per inch (or 28.8 by 51.2 inches, which is going to have to be cropped as a canvas -- they aren't going to custom-fabricate stretchers to odd fractions of an inch -- although it can be trimmed to actual size as a poster). Again, that's a *good* rescaling -- Image-&gt;Size in your favorite editor won't cut that brand of mustard." CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:14:11.897" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12879" PostId="9152" Score="8" Text="The caveat to the &quot;bigger prints can do ok with lower pixel density&quot; mantra (which I subscribe to) is that it is based on a single image. When you do a collage people tend to get in closer to see the individual images, negating that benefit." CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:15:22.627" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12881" PostId="9151" Score="1" Text="Although the question it's attached to is specifically about inkjet prints, this awesome answer is worth reading: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer/1716#1716" CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:25:20.993" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12882" PostId="456" Score="1" Text="See also @jrista's answer to a related question here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer/1716#1716" CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:28:13.693" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12883" PostId="9144" Score="3" Text="&quot;Telephoto compression&quot; is merely a function of subject distance, not something that is inherent in the lens. As such, cropping will work as-is, out of the box. The corner stretching of rectilinear wide-angles is a lens effect, but should not be an issue for this application." CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:28:44.280" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="12884" PostId="9151" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [Image size vs. print size](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/456/image-size-vs-print-size)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:29:18.090" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12885" PostId="9152" Text="One *could* answer &quot;so, make it so big that it would induce vertigo if they try to get that close&quot; -- but I won't." CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:34:49.607" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12886" PostId="8682" Text="Thank you. So I need one ballast for every bank. That's expensive." CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:55:26.627" UserId="1080" />
  <row Id="12887" PostId="9152" Text="but increasing size also means increasing cost.. ;) so it cant go way to big.." CreationDate="2011-02-22T17:57:25.530" UserId="3110" />
  <row Id="12888" PostId="9083" Score="1" Text="ZINK is the same printer as the Polaroid PoGo. In an odd turnabout, Polaroid is now licensing instant photography technology from a third party. Whodathunkit?" CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:26:34.410" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12889" PostId="9146" Text="According to the thin lens formula, 1/y + 1/x = 1/50 where y = lens-to-image distance (mm) and x = lens-to-sensor distance.  Using this as an *approximation* and taking a 14 mm adapter pushes x to a minimum of 42 + 14 = 56 mm.  Solving for y gives 50*56/(56-50) = 467 mm = about 1.5 feet.  (That's why these are primarily macro photography solutions.)  Equivalently, if you want to focus to y mm (from the lens), you need x = 50y/(y-50).  E.g., for y = 5 m = 5000 mm, x = 50.5 mm implies the adapter must be no more than 50.5 - 42 = 8.5 mm thick.  " CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:31:11.137" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="12890" PostId="9102" Text="@Stan: good point. I forgot about that. I got allergic film  in general b4 Pyro bugged me ;-)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:44:33.223" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="12891" PostId="9161" Score="3" Text="Will a computer save all of the data, or do you need it to also save it's data? If a computer will save all of the data, just get a webcam, they are usually quite wide angle, easily controlled, and are powered by USB." CreationDate="2011-02-22T18:47:54.013" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12892" PostId="9161" Score="3" Text="Tried that, I have a very good HD webcam. Image quality is still fairly bad, and during the night its unusable." CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:04:51.193" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12893" PostId="9161" Score="1" Text="You'll want to add that to your list of requirements, then, because this is likely to be true for a cheap older model digicam as well." CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:23:41.863" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12894" PostId="9115" Text="Could you show me where you purchased it? When I looked at it, it was around $750-$800, which was more than twice the cost of the Canon 50/1.4. If I could find it for $320, I'd buy one in a heartbeat, but I didn't have $750 at the time I bought my EF 50/1.4. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:26:49.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12895" PostId="9161" Score="3" Text="@mattdm: Really? Can you find a point-and-shoot camera (a real camera, not a mobile phone or webcam) from a reputable camera manufacturer that doesn't have a *much* better low-light performance than a webcam? In a point-and-shoot camera, you have the advantage of a mechanical shutter and long exposures; a webcam has neither of those and low-light pictures are near-useless." CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:31:49.540" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="12896" PostId="9161" Score="2" Text="I dont think so, I have an antique Kodak 3mp, and even that is much better than the webcam. Anything made in the past 3-4 years would do." CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:32:16.843" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12897" PostId="9163" Score="1" Text="thank you for the detailed description, after 5 years of digital photography I decided to start exploring film and I'm loving it!" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:41:25.907" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="12898" PostId="9154" Score="1" Text="Two drive-by downvotes with no comment.  +1 just to spite them." CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:42:45.233" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="12899" PostId="9164" Score="1" Text="ha should have opened my eyes... guess I was too busy looking at different rolls on online stores. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:44:08.507" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="12900" PostId="9164" Text="Hmmm... I always used TX in the bad old days. There was no sense buying anything that didn't come in bricks or propacks (and I don't think they offered anything else in 4x5 at the time in any case). As for the &quot;feel&quot; thing, I never had the patience to use pencils on 35mm negs -- a fellow could go blind!" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:47:45.603" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12901" PostId="9161" Score="1" Text="It's really not that hard to find a digicam with abysmal low-light performance. I'll pick something from Olympus. I'm not saying webcams aren't also bad, but a &quot;very good&quot; one will be at least in the same ballpark as a cheap digicam. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:50:50.067" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12902" PostId="2619" Text="I also have the 50 f/1.4 AF-S and it works beautifully but then again it's over $300 more than the 50 f/1.8." CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:06:39.920" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="12903" PostId="9154" Score="3" Text="@Ron — I didn't downvote, but commenting is not required in order to downvote. It's perfectly legitimate to vote down if you feel the answer contains misinformation (which this one basically does, because its use of dpi is either confused or confusing). Voting answers up &quot;just to spite&quot; people is malicious and actively breaks the site." CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:06:56.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12904" PostId="9163" Text="More power to you, try large format next! :)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:17:36.487" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="12905" PostId="9115" Text="contax zeiss with an adapter, not the newer ZE version. There are nearly always a couple on ebay..." CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:19:10.120" UserId="4015" />
  <row Id="12906" PostId="9115" Text="you do have autofocus though. probably a fair trade-off for very slightly worse IQ. " CreationDate="2011-02-22T20:22:42.407" UserId="4015" />
  <row Id="12907" PostId="4781" Text="at some point you're going to need to update those bits about displays and the &quot;three&quot; subpixels to deal with displays that add a forth (yellow) subpixel into a square arrangement." CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:01:10.287" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="12908" PostId="9161" Text="Turns out that very few camera have PC control or SDK,&#xA;even Canon stopped adding this feature to it's P&amp;S cameras after the G10.&#xA;Sad." CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:23:14.413" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12909" PostId="9154" Text="@Ron - I didn't downvote either, but I have to concur with @mattdm. This answer is 'self-evident' in its incorrectness and it was probably voted down as a result. On the other hand, your upvoting a clearly incorrect answer is far more 'harmful' to the site than a downvote with no explanation because an upvote promotes bad information..." CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:31:03.853" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12910" PostId="9024" Text="@Itai: Thanks! Most of the time I actually do know the answers to the questions I ask, but in this case my understanding of CoC is fuzzy at best... :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-22T22:46:54.460" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12911" PostId="9027" Text="@Itai: Sooo... How do I calculate CoC?" CreationDate="2011-02-22T22:50:07.157" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12912" PostId="8513" Score="1" Text="I hadn't heard of this technique until reading your post. Thanks so much for asking this. I'm going to try this tonight." CreationDate="2011-02-22T23:14:43.983" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="12913" PostId="9161" Text="Why do you want to control the camera via computer? It might help us to help you if you give us a bit more of what you intend to do with this, so we can figure out the best overall solution." CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:21:10.973" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12914" PostId="9148" Text="@mattdm, don't you mean &quot;focal point&quot; instead of &quot;aperture&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:33:33.087" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12915" PostId="9161" Text="This is a setup that will take an picture every minute for several months. I need computer control to trigger the camera, and to store the images." CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:35:58.683" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12916" PostId="9140" Text="+1 for the delight factor" CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:41:03.003" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="12917" PostId="8932" Text="Wish I could accept two answers here." CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:50:49.343" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12918" PostId="9148" Text="@ysap: it has been a ridiculously long time since I studied optics in, um, high school. But I think that a photographic lens doesn't properly have a focal point but rather a focal plane — at the image sensor. The point I'm talking about is (as I look this up quickly) a &quot;nodal point&quot;. For the purpose of the simple drawing, I'm imagining a pinhole camera, where the &quot;lens&quot; actually is an aperture." CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:51:28.070" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12919" PostId="9148" Text="@ysap: I've removed &quot;aperture&quot;, since that could be misleading. Open to more suggestions on making it better. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:58:58.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12920" PostId="9135" Text="To the anonymous reader - I just noticed that there is one downvote on this answer. I don't really care about the vote itself, but PLEASE, can you tell WHY do you think there is a problem with the answer? This is generally true for all downvoters out there. To the benefit of the community, please try to explain your vote, and give the poster a chance to correct his potential mistakes." CreationDate="2011-02-23T02:52:14.877" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12921" PostId="9156" Text="Not losing sight of the photography seems to be good advice coming from all of you - hopefully you're not all burnt out!  I definitely don't want to lose my interest, and I'm not looking for an unrealistic hand-over-fist income, just maybe a few bucks here and there." CreationDate="2011-02-23T02:56:38.117" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12922" PostId="2605" Text="I was just playing around with freelensing using my Nikon D5000 and Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 AF-D. I don't think you'll regret getting this. I love the retro look of the photos I've taken with this lens on this camera." CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:27:30.773" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="12923" PostId="9167" Text="DIGI resolution is 640 x 480, thats too low. I need 1080p." CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:32:02.880" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12924" PostId="9167" Text="You might want to add that to your list of requirements as well then..." CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:32:48.590" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12925" PostId="9167" Text="And I have one of Logitech's top range webcams, and its still not good enough." CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:32:50.367" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12926" PostId="706" Text="If &quot;subjective&quot; and &quot;off-topic&quot; aren't good enough reasons to close this sort of question, there's also &quot;too localized.&quot; It really doesn't get much more localized than this. " CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:33:39.740" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="12928" PostId="9154" Score="1" Text="Ok let me try. This comment makes no sense; the dpi values are way wrong.  3 feet wide at 600 pixels per inch means the image would have to be 21,600 pixels wide, but the question's about one that's 5,120 pixels wide.  600 pixels per inch is insane for a poster - 120 to 300 is more normal, and the recommendations I've seen for 180 or 160ppi are probably most appropriate.  The statement about seeing imperfections at 600 or 1200 ppi are insane.  Firstly the OP's image would only be 8 or 4 inches wide at those figures. This would be more believable if it was something more like 120 and 240 ppi." CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:35:10.690" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12929" PostId="9154" Score="1" Text="There is also the confusion between dpi (dots per inch) and ppi (pixels per inch).  So maybe this answer just misunderstood something along those lines because it does mention dpi and not ppi, where ppi would be relevant here." CreationDate="2011-02-23T03:42:47.457" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="12930" PostId="9161" Score="1" Text="This feels really close to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1563/are-there-any-tetherable-compact-cameras now." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:03:09.880" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12931" PostId="9152" Text="please have a look at my updated question above.." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:09:09.387" UserId="3110" />
  <row Id="12932" PostId="9173" Score="1" Text="That one is popular, but doesn't allow me to choose my backup media." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:11:32.577" UserId="1216" />
  <row Id="12933" PostId="9174" Text="Ok, so I ran a test.  Putting the extension tubes to get as close to 1:1 as I can loses a bit more than 2 stops of light in a scene for me.  The shutter dropped from 1/8th to 1 second.  " CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:13:25.280" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12934" PostId="9173" Text="Indeed, true enough." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:14:32.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12935" PostId="9167" Text="I'm looking at over 40K pictures per month on this setup, for 4-6 month. DSLR shutter will not stand it." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:32:09.927" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12936" PostId="9161" Text="@Shachar: You know, you might get better help if you actually listed *all* your requirements up front rather than to have people pry your requirements out of you one at a time. What is this, information on a 'need to know' basis? ;-) To paraphrase the immortal words of Jerry McGuire, &quot;help *us* help *you*!&quot; At the VERY least, please update your question with the new requirements that have been identified so people who are new to the thread don't have to read every... single... comment... before they have enough data to give an answer. Just sayin'..." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:37:30.430" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="12937" PostId="9175" Score="1" Text="As far as &quot;cost you more in the end&quot; - possibly, but you can always use the tubes on a macro lens to get more than 1:1." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:38:49.023" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12938" PostId="9161" Text="@Jay: You are correct. Some of the issues raised in the comments I did not think about them when formulating the question." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:40:01.783" UserId="1636" />
  <row Id="12939" PostId="9174" Text="I'd bet that the lens is an internal focus lens. If you could use tubes alone and leave the lens focused at infinity, you'd find that 2 stops would do it. (The lens is extended to twice its focal length at 1:1. IF changes the whole geometry because focusing actually changes the focal length of the lens --- it gets shorter as you focus closer, and the aperture is usually situated in the optical path such that it remains at the same relative size to the changing focal length. IF makes manual calculations hard -- you'd need to create a compensation chart for your lens.)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:49:03.880" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12940" PostId="9144" Text="There are plenty of consumer programs that can counteract or create wide-angle distortion." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:52:25.327" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12941" PostId="9174" Text="Hmm...have to investigate." CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:58:26.113" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12942" PostId="9170" Score="1" Text="Does &quot;exibackup&quot; mean anything, or did you start typing &quot;backup&quot; halfway through typing &quot;exist&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T04:58:41.090" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="12943" PostId="9154" Text="600 dpi turns out to be about 1/3 that resolution at Kinkos, probably because of 3 colors per pixel. I was still fudging a bit, but the best way is still to print a small sample and look at it at the potential sizes." CreationDate="2011-02-23T05:24:12.837" UserId="3941" />
  <row Id="12944" PostId="9169" Text="Have you tried a Canon FD, Nikon, or M42 lens?  Most have aperture controls on the lens.  If you don't mind the loss of sharpness from 40-year-old lens design and coating, you can get one cheap to use with your extension tubes.  Still no AF, of course." CreationDate="2011-02-23T06:30:22.153" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12945" PostId="9181" Text="Could you please reword the question so that it is not so generic?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T06:48:22.450" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="12946" PostId="9169" Text="@drewbenn - I thought about buying a used FD lens or a Nikon one, but couldn't find one cheap enough to justify it. I used the technique of setting the aperture while the lens was connected normally, then unmounting it from the camera and reversing it. It works, but it is clumsy. Additionally, using such lens does not solve the autofocus problem." CreationDate="2011-02-23T07:31:28.520" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12947" PostId="9169" Text="If you don't mind me asking, what's your definition of 'cheap enough?'  KEH has excellent-grade FD 28/2.8 and 50/1.8 lenses for under $50; the adapter is another $15 from eBay.  Nikon lenses are a little more but useful beyond 2 feet.  Not starving-college-student cheap, but still inexpensive.  Or are you just allergic to manual focus? ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T08:02:19.753" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12948" PostId="9179" Text="@kloucks - thanks for the detailed answer. I liked the Vodka part..." CreationDate="2011-02-23T08:47:39.200" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12949" PostId="9172" Text="So, the Minimum Focusing Disatnce at 300mm is about 2-3 feet? It will probably make the 200mm around 2 feet." CreationDate="2011-02-23T08:56:04.423" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12950" PostId="9169" Text="@drewbenn - at the time, I couldn't justify the $60-$70 on that. Not that I couldn't afford that, but couldn't justify to myself, given I found out the set-aperture-then-reverse technique. I am not allergic to MF, as you could tell from the plethora of techniques I used for macro, but I think it is just not sufficient for non-static scenes (I might be wrong thinking that AF is going to solve that)." CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:06:05.043" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12951" PostId="9179" Text="@kloucks - what is the MFD with the 70-200?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:07:35.213" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12952" PostId="8953" Text="@jwenting - IIRC, the 190 is a bit shorter than the 055, so for average to tall persons, the 055 is preferable." CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:14:09.373" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12953" PostId="8953" Text="I have the 324RC2 on a 3021 (which the 055 replaced). I was able to find the 3021BPRO for $90 on Craigslist and it serves me well. I found out that for supporting the EF70-200/2.8 lens, the grip of the head is marginal, and I see noticeable creeping for non-level angles." CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:17:18.250" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="12954" PostId="8954" Text="cheap and portable, sturdy and portable, both are doable. Cheap and sturdy? Haven't seen it yet (unless you mean a pile of bricks, literally)." CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:35:42.443" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12955" PostId="9187" Text="One would hope that the publisher would offer you tearsheets that haven't literally been torn from the publication. That's what I used to get -- pristine pages that were never bound, neatly trimmed." CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:41:47.057" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12956" PostId="9186" Text="It is also completely legal (under the current state of affairs) for the authorities to visit your neighbors and employer to inquire about your character and the reasons you might have for taking such an interest in their aircraft. Getting permission beforehand saves a lot of awkwardness." CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:44:56.023" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="12958" PostId="8267" Score="1" Text="And while doing so, make sure to also cover the viewfinder, as light can leak through there during long exposures (or so I was taught 30 years ago using an old East German manual SLR).&#xA;Set camera on B (Bulb), compose, cover viewfinder with its cover (if you don't have one, use something else), cover the lens with black cardboard. Using the remote, trigger the shutter and when you want something exposed, uncover the lens for a moment." CreationDate="2011-02-23T10:02:40.587" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="12960" PostId="9189" Score="1" Text="Thanks for your reply, What the 3100 lacks is external mic input, and the cont. auto focus in video is noisy, that is a complete no-no. Could you suggest any 3rd party zoom lens for video?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T12:43:56.633" UserId="4031" />
  <row Id="12961" PostId="9188" Text="Hello, I am on a limited budget so can't really opt for the d7000. Thanks for your reply" CreationDate="2011-02-23T12:45:19.300" UserId="4031" />
  <row Id="12962" PostId="9185" Score="1" Text="Depending on what type of video you're aiming for, the 50 mm might be too narrow... If it's outdoorsie things, it'll do fine, but if you are going inside in a cramped area, it might prove to be less than useful. Just a thought. Also, the best camera depends a lot on if you want 24 or 30 fps, and if 1080p is a requirement, or if 720p will suffice. I suggest you edit your questions to include this bit of detail." CreationDate="2011-02-23T13:01:59.530" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="12963" PostId="9170" Text="@Evan Wow, that's a bad one, thanks for the catch!  (and yes, my fingers didn't keep up with my brain.  It was originally meant to say, &quot;...exist which backup...&quot;)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:19:50.100" UserId="1216" />
  <row Id="12964" PostId="9192" Score="1" Text="mugs are a common support as well." CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:32:44.690" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="12965" PostId="9185" Text="Mainly indoors, low light. I prefer 24 / 1080p. Thanks for the reply" CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:36:44.090" UserId="4031" />
  <row Id="12966" PostId="9191" Score="1" Text="Thanks a lot for the insight, that's the reason I checked the 3100 off the list, I also will be doing some run and gun shooting. Having something like the zoom h4 is a solution but not really useful at unprepared shots. " CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:40:25.583" UserId="4031" />
  <row Id="12967" PostId="9192" Text="They do glass printing here and you get to choose a background and foreground image. I've never seen metal." CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:41:19.650" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12968" PostId="9192" Score="1" Text="Printing on vinyl is possible too. It is used for very large prints, since it makes it easier to stick on a hard backing than paper (which I tried without success :( several times, unrolling 8 feet of paper perfectly flat is not easy)." CreationDate="2011-02-23T14:43:50.863" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="12969" PostId="8051" Score="1" Text="Hmm... I would never have asked this question, yet the &quot;winning&quot; answer taught me something new. Definitely worth posting, and I'll gladly let him boost for it. +1 for a question I should know more about but didn't realize." CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:08:54.567" UserId="2778" />
  <row Id="12970" PostId="9179" Text="@ysap edited the working distances I use into the msg" CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:13:38.617" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12971" PostId="9174" Text="I had the Tamron SP 90 f/2.8 for 3 years and it is an excellent lens as you note and especially the contrast and clarity were outstanding, but eventually I wanted something that would autofocus faster so I traded it for an EF 100. " CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:28:26.693" UserId="3675" />
  <row Id="12972" PostId="9147" Text="Thanks for the answer, but that product contains a correction lens to enable infinity focus. As I said in my question I am after a lensless adapter because I dont want to suffer quality loss." CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:31:30.397" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="12973" PostId="9159" Text="Excellent, thanks drewbenn! Wow, 16&quot;... I thought I might have got a little more reach than that, but it seems to tie in with Matt Grum's predictions. I guess i'll just have to wait until the day I can add a proper EF 50mm to my collection :)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:38:24.300" UserId="2131" />
  <row Id="12974" PostId="1201" Score="1" Text="+1 - I think guarding against dust and lens scratches is an acceptable trade off for some degradation of the image. I'd like to see some studies that show how much degradation of image quality is produced by using a UV filter." CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:51:22.313" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="12975" PostId="9144" Score="1" Text="I think not. Take your favorite zoom lens. Take a shot of someone at it's widest setting, then zoom out and move so that the person fills the frame the same as they did on the previous shot. Is it the same photo? Not hardly. This is the perspective difference that mearly cropping a photo doesn't achieve." CreationDate="2011-02-23T15:51:48.147" UserId="3914" />
  <row Id="12976" PostId="9144" Text="Upon thinking on this a bit more, I suspect we're comparing apples and oranges. I'm talking about taking the same shot of a subject at different focal lengths, whereas you seem to be talking about zooming in on a subject (not the same shot)." CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:06:28.130" UserId="3914" />
  <row Id="12977" PostId="4781" Text="@cabbey: At some point, probably. I don't think such screens are nearly prevalent enough to warrant it yet, and we'll have to see if it really catches on. I personally think that it is a necessary evolution, given that because of the way our eyes work, we are indeed directly sensitive to all four of those colors. I'm just not sure most companies will see any real value in it, since we can already create billions of colors today with RGB pixels." CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:50:07.523" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12978" PostId="9156" Text="I saw it coming and have pretty much stopped activly searching for paid work, if good clients come back I will still work for them, but on my terms, the rest of the time I'll be doing personal work." CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:54:59.590" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12979" PostId="9200" Text="&#xA;@jrista, so the flame would be in focus I tried to focus on the wick. I’ll try to do more testing with shooting the rim tonight. How can I improve my technique and what am I doing wrong that moving the focus ring slightly to me looks like there is no change in focus?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T16:58:26.727" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="12980" PostId="9201" Text="Oooh, I am liking this idea.  More important than selling the images is getting the feedback from others on how decent my technique is.  Sounds like this might be a place for me to check out!" CreationDate="2011-02-23T17:03:38.920" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12981" PostId="9192" Score="3" Text="Is it bad that I immediately thought 'alternative media' instead of 'mediums'?  Maybe too much Latin in high school..." CreationDate="2011-02-23T17:39:37.993" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="12982" PostId="9198" Text="Metal printing looks really interesting. I am keen to try it out." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:29:02.290" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12984" PostId="9207" Score="1" Text="+1 for wick focusing.  Till I saw your answer, thats what I was going to suggest.  f/4 is a good choice as well - that lens hits its sharpest point typically around f/4." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:34:05.963" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="12985" PostId="9200" Text="Well, there could be a few reasons you don't see much change in focus. If you are using the viewfinder, and it is not using a focusing screen, it might be hard to see exactly what is in focus. If you are using the LCD and live view, it may just be that your DOF is deep enough that a small change in the focus ring doesn't make a very noticeable change in the part of the scene that is in focus. Deeper DOF will require larger changes to get very noticeable changes at the focal plane. A thinner DOF will produce more pronounced visible changes with finer focus ring adjustments." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:35:35.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12986" PostId="9153" Text="It should be noted that 180ppi only works for Epson printers, which have a native resolution of 720ppi. You would need to use either 150ppi or 200ppi for other printers, which have a native resolution of 600ppi. Printing at a PPI that does not evenly divide into the native resolution can produce undesirable results." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:38:49.013" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12987" PostId="534" Score="1" Text="Just for the record, the rule of thirds isn't the golden ratio, which is roughly 1:1.62, not 1:1.5. In practical application, 62% is close enough to 66% that either line will probably hit whatever you're aiming to organize that way — but they really aren't the same." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:38:49.653" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12988" PostId="9156" Text="Glad to hear it.  Photography is just too wonderful to lose interest in.  Mildly related: my very first job was at a local pizza chain.  I couldn't eat pizza for a year afterward, and it is still one of my favorite snack foods :)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:38:56.970" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="12989" PostId="528" Score="1" Text="I've heard several people claim that the rule of thirds is a simplification of the golden ratio, but I haven't seen any _evidence_ presented that they weren't derived independently." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:39:39.683" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="12990" PostId="9199" Score="4" Text="What aperture were you using?  I think different people are making different assumptions about your aperture (and the picture doesn't include metadata).  Might also be useful: ISO, shutter speed, other conditions (shutter release cable? mirror lockup? is the picture a 100% crop or resized?)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:40:30.963" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="12991" PostId="9209" Score="2" Text="I did some additional research myself, and one can figure that, worst case, human visual acuity (corrected or natural, obviously uncorrected is a different case) is 20/20, or about 1 arc-minute. Human vision ranges from 20/20 down to 20/10, with 20/16-20/12 being fairly common. If you intend to produce a print that services those of the community with the best eyesight, 20/10 vision, or that 0.7 arc-minute value you stated, should be used. Anything below 0.5 arc-minute, and you are beyond the physical resolving power of the retina, and any additional detail will be unresolvable." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:42:55.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12992" PostId="9152" Score="2" Text="It is important to note that the PPI you print at should ALWAYS be evenly divisible into the printers native resolution. For Epson, that would be 720ppi, for other ink jet printers, that is usually 600ppi. If you use other technologies, such as dye-sub, you may have an odd native resolution, such as 360.21ppi, and you should always print at that resolution for best results. Printing at oddball PPI, such as 250 or 160, will usually cause the printer to do its own &quot;nearest-neighbor&quot; scaling to normalize the image with its native resolution. (cont...)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:46:09.953" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12993" PostId="9152" Score="2" Text="When printing at non-divisible PPI, the crappy scaling the printer driver (or hardware) does usually results in undesirable artifacts and pixel filtering. You would probably get better results printing at 150ppi (which is evenly divisible into 600ppi for Canon) than 160ppi. Same would be the case if you used 240ppi rather than 250ppi. For Epson printers, 180ppi and 288ppi would be the appropriate resolutions. The &quot;common&quot; value of 300ppi is only valid for printer-native 600ppi, while 360ppi should be used on Epsons." CreationDate="2011-02-23T18:48:07.470" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12994" PostId="9154" Text="DPI is a measure of how many individual ink droplets a printer can put on a page per inch, and is usually a native/physical hardware value determined by print head design. In the case of ink jet printers, multiple &quot;drops&quot; are used to make up a single pixel. PPI is a measure of how many pixels the printer can lay down in an inch, and each pixel may contain 8 or more droplets. It is incorrect to use DPI in the context of discussing what &quot;resolution&quot; an image should be scaled to to print out at a certain physical print size. PPI should always be used." CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:12:36.463" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="12995" PostId="9153" Text="Yes, I should have been clearer with that. Hence if you aren't printing yourself it is really best to speak to your printer/lab to see what they suggest." CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:31:22.883" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="12996" PostId="9190" Text="Good advice to have phone no. of lawyer. His business card as well would be advantageous." CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:32:56.523" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12997" PostId="9186" Text="The problem with asking permission is that often the local base commander won't know for sure what is permitted. His default answer will then be NO. On the plus side it is a good idea to become known to them. One idea might be to send a decent print to the base commander with a nice thank you letter. He will probably be glad to hang it in his office." CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:38:38.587" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="12998" PostId="9209" Text="Yeah, there seemed to be a lot of conflicting information, but I would agree that from what I could find, 0.5 arc-minute is a good limit on what the human eye can resolve." CreationDate="2011-02-23T19:40:48.273" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="13000" PostId="3421" Score="1" Text="The P100's CMOS chip is the same size as everyone else's among ultra-zooms. A few more compact cameras use larger chips, sometimes even larger CCDs (Nikon P7000, Canon S95)." CreationDate="2011-02-23T20:18:28.757" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13001" PostId="9202" Score="1" Text="With the standard matte focusing screen provided by Canon, it is impossible to focus a fast lens accurately. This is because the screen is designed to give a useable image with your typical slow, f/5.6 consumer zoom lens, the matte screen makes the max effective visual aperture around f/2.8. Replacing it with an alternative matte screen, such as a Canon Esomething-S (depending on camera model) with a coarser structure makes focusing a fast lens possible, but the view through a slow lens is unusably dark. Or a third-party screen with a split prism; same thing." CreationDate="2011-02-23T20:45:44.563" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13002" PostId="9212" Score="1" Text="It may be helpful to also say *why* you think this camera is ideal for an aspiring photographer..." CreationDate="2011-02-23T20:49:53.963" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="13003" PostId="9186" Text="@Stan Rogers: Guess I don't mind living on the edge. I've taken lots of pictures from outside the fencelines of military installations over the years. I don't skulk around suspiciously for hours just waiting for them to notice me either, though. :-)" CreationDate="2011-02-23T21:06:52.787" UserId="4032" />
  <row Id="13004" PostId="9129" Text="Thanks for the reply. How does one know which IPS monitor to choose?" CreationDate="2011-02-23T21:56:52.653" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="13005" PostId="9213" Text="Note that I'm not knocking the cool properties of phi here. In fact, another way of phrasing this is: a golden rectangle is one where successively drawing a rabatment square and and then applying the same process to the resulting left-over rectangle can continue infinitely. If you start with a 3:2 rectangle, one hits &quot;indivisible&quot; squares after only a couple of iterations." CreationDate="2011-02-23T22:26:04.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13006" PostId="9207" Text="+1.  It's worth noting that even at f/1.4 with a subject distance at 100 cm, the depth of field is about 1 cm in front and behind the flame: more than enough to have the entire flame in focus.  Thus, establishing a decent DoF is not a consideration." CreationDate="2011-02-23T23:01:32.000" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13007" PostId="9207" Text="Good point. I'll update. DoF isn't so much of a consideration, but aperture still is in that most lenses are sharper in the middle of their f-stop range than they are on either extreme end, and thus cranking the aperture way open (or closed) can cause an otherwise in-focus picture to be soft..." CreationDate="2011-02-23T23:10:43.210" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13008" PostId="9202" Text="Parenthetical comment... I refer to Canon above, but it's the same story all round: Since autofocus was introduced, all the manufacturers sell their cameras with a 'slow' matte screen installed which does not give a good focus indication with a fast lens." CreationDate="2011-02-23T23:32:19.453" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13009" PostId="9209" Score="1" Text="I wish my eye had a resolving ability of .7 arc minutes! Mine's more like 5." CreationDate="2011-02-24T01:10:58.413" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13010" PostId="9129" Text="I don't have an easy answer for that, other than to read lots of reviews - which tend to be hard to google for amongst all the sites with cut-and-paste product descriptions from the manufacturer wanting to sell you one.  My home monitor is a Dell Ultrasharp 2209WA and it's great for the price.  Most of the larger widescreen Dell Ultrasharps are also good.  Some also like Apple Cinema displays but I've less experience with those." CreationDate="2011-02-24T02:02:48.683" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13011" PostId="9199" Text="To force the focus point chosen in AF, see [this Nikon forum entry](http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Xfgl) at photo.net. " CreationDate="2011-02-24T03:18:13.153" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13012" PostId="9216" Text="For what it's worth, the brightness issue was brought up in relation to ease of manual focus by candlelight only, not in relation to exposure." CreationDate="2011-02-24T03:19:38.610" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13013" PostId="9189" Text="If I were you, I'd avoid using any 3rd party lenses. Lenses that are good for general photography should do good for video as well. I don't know if there's any specialized lens for video to be honest. After getting decided on a body, you'll also need to consider a few things (light/sharpness/focal length range etc) for deciding a lens." CreationDate="2011-02-24T03:39:18.040" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13014" PostId="9143" Text="All good points. One point I'd add is that it is not just the EF lenses that command a premium. There are some EF-S lenses too, like the 17-55mm f2.8 lens I mentioned in the question, that fall into that category, albeit without the &quot;L&quot; tag." CreationDate="2011-02-24T04:50:48.630" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="13015" PostId="9196" Score="1" Text="It took me a minute to realize you were talking about jigsaw _puzzles_, not actual [jigsaws](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jigsaw_(power_tool))." CreationDate="2011-02-24T05:08:01.567" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13016" PostId="9198" Text="I searched for metal prints and found Bay Photo; how has your experience with them been?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T06:20:47.123" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13017" PostId="7749" Text="Nikon's VR system is supposed to automatically detect panning, and should handle it properly." CreationDate="2011-02-24T06:24:39.753" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13018" PostId="9144" Text="@Al Graham - Perspective is controlled by one, and only one factor. This is the geometrical relationship between the photographer and the scene. In simple terms, it is all about where the camera is positioned in the scene (I suspect you know and agree with that from your 2nd comment). Any difference in the image of an object taken with different focal lengths is purely due to different lens distortion at the different lengths. In your 1st comment, you emphasized the &quot;fills the frame&quot; for the 2nd shot. You may want to emphasize that for the 1st shot too." CreationDate="2011-02-24T08:12:18.697" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13019" PostId="3118" Text="As a beginner you probably will do good with only a 18-55 VR, 55-200 VR and perhaps a 35 1.8 and they are all AF-S anyway. Regarding functionality, it's just about convenience. Can you be more precise on the limitations and the lenses that you are talking about? " CreationDate="2011-02-24T09:38:18.360" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="13020" PostId="9218" Text="Where can I find the text file?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T10:34:14.930" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="13021" PostId="9218" Text="Sorry I meant to direct that to @Shizam. I don't have aperture on this computer so I will have to wait until I get home to try and extract it, and see what the structure is" CreationDate="2011-02-24T12:40:37.460" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="13022" PostId="508" Text="Nice collection of data! I haven't seen this compiled for all major brands in a single place. Very handy - especially for collectors." CreationDate="2011-02-24T12:48:48.157" UserId="3733" />
  <row Id="13023" PostId="9042" Text="@Andrew - That's a good idea.  Another interesting experiment would be to take a list of images, and do several different croppings of each and ask users what cropping they find most pleasing (but don't tell them that some obey certain &quot;rules&quot;).  I.e. the original, a &quot;rule-of-thirds&quot; type crop, and a golden ratio type crop." CreationDate="2011-02-24T14:46:10.800" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="13024" PostId="9225" Score="2" Text="You should say more about what you mean by image quality. Composition-&gt;crop, contrast-&gt;levels/curves, color balance, removing distractions, blemishes... Also what are the pictures of? People, landscape,..." CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:17:43.570" UserId="98" />
  <row Id="13025" PostId="9224" Text="But why in photo mode the light is readed as a whole and in video mode line by line? The article explains the diferences between rolling and global, but I can't understand the switch between photo and movie mode." CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:19:09.280" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="13026" PostId="9225" Score="1" Text="Please be less vague if you want useful responses. You should indicate what issues you are having (different problems require different solutions &amp; some have no solution). Also, what is your medium (different processes work best with certain media: matte printing, glossy brochures and web use are all a little different)." CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:20:23.560" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13027" PostId="9224" Score="2" Text="@Andres, the image is still read line by line in photo mode, you just don't notice it! " CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:25:18.833" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13028" PostId="9225" Text="I updated the question." CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:27:03.093" UserId="4041" />
  <row Id="13029" PostId="9227" Text="Uhmmmm, what about 1 second long (or more) exposures? Does the sensor takes more time to read each line or it re-reads the lines when hits the bottom?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:35:45.507" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="13031" PostId="9227" Text="@Nick You have just pointed out why there is a limit on shutter speeds with (non-HSS) flash: the shutter can be entirely open for exposures of about 1/250 s or longer (depending on the camera), but for *shorter* exposures the entire sensor is never exposed at any given time." CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:49:00.713" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13032" PostId="9227" Text="@Nick it's only at speeds faster than 1/250s that the shutter scans the frame, at 1/200s there's a moment when the whole sensor is exposed, thus enabling flash at this speed" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:51:45.080" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13033" PostId="9227" Score="1" Text="@Andres, when shooting stills the frame is scanned after the shutter is closed, so with a 1 second exposure, the shutter is open for 1 second, then it closes and then the whole frame is scanned in approx 1/25s" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:52:51.070" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13034" PostId="9198" Score="1" Text="I've had good experiences with Bay Photo both direct and via SmugMug - never had a problem w/ an order." CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:54:01.737" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13035" PostId="9227" Text="@matt I know, I realised my mistake and deleted the comment! But this doesn't explain why the shutter has to roll in video mode - why can't the camera capture the whole frame then?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:56:42.407" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="13036" PostId="9225" Score="1" Text="_more_ less-vague would still be helpful even after the edits. " CreationDate="2011-02-24T16:08:45.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13037" PostId="9228" Text="Liquid Rescale isn't primarily an upscaling plugin -- it's a &quot;content aware&quot; resizer, designed for photo manipulation. Pretty cool for what it does, but not the same as Genuine Fractals." CreationDate="2011-02-24T16:12:26.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13038" PostId="9228" Text="Yeah I just realised that and had to edit!" CreationDate="2011-02-24T16:13:50.450" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13039" PostId="9227" Text="@Nick, no worries, I'll leave my post there as there will just be more confusion if I delete it! Basically the camera can't capture the whole frame at once in any mode, it's just in stills mode after the shutter has closed the camera has all the time in the world (relatively speaking) to read the pixels in any order it chooses as there's no extra light coming in to alter the result!" CreationDate="2011-02-24T16:16:07.140" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13040" PostId="9223" Score="1" Text="You're wrong. When you take a picture a CMOS sensor scans line-by-line exactly the same way as it does when shooting video." CreationDate="2011-02-24T16:31:40.973" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13042" PostId="9229" Text="So, it's correct to say that in stills mode, the CMOS acts PARTIALLY as a global shutter (As all the light exposes the sensor as a whole, and then, when there isn't any more light hitting it, each line is read)?&#xA;&#xA;But why, if the camera uses an electronic shutter (which I guess commands the sensor when has to be light sensitive), still there is skew artifacts? I mean, if the sensor receives the light as a whole, then the electronic shutter hits, and then the lines are read, why there are rolling shutter artifacts?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T17:10:31.657" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="13043" PostId="9229" Score="1" Text="Because there's isn't a command to &quot;turn off&quot; light sensitivity. There's just reading the data from a cell, which drains the charge in that cell." CreationDate="2011-02-24T17:20:39.243" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13044" PostId="9225" Text="@mattdm I'm pretty sure the questioner is talking about upsampling images, doesn't seem too vauge to me" CreationDate="2011-02-24T17:23:54.723" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13045" PostId="8876" Text="+1 to Rowland Shaw. My feeling is that putting your portrait on a CV or Resume invites discrimination. " CreationDate="2011-02-24T17:54:53.033" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="13046" PostId="7547" Score="1" Text="And how about photo book services?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T18:05:28.993" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="13047" PostId="9201" Text="My accepted answer was extremely difficult to choose, and I wish I could choose more than one.  However, my slightly higher priority in the question was about the feasibility (including feedback), and this was the best answer for that.  Thanks very much for so many good answers.  You've certainly opened my eyes." CreationDate="2011-02-24T18:29:01.637" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="13048" PostId="9230" Score="1" Text="should it be - when is one better than the other?" CreationDate="2011-02-24T19:11:50.350" UserId="3989" />
  <row Id="13049" PostId="9228" Text="So, I looked around a bit, and the only implementation of fractal image encoding in the open source world appears to be based on some y2k-era work called Fiasco. It's implemented in netpbm. Unfortunately, it's a) not very developed and b) entirely focused on high compression levels, not on rescaling. So, for this purpose, it's basically useless." CreationDate="2011-02-24T19:38:10.587" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13050" PostId="9228" Text="But see: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2008/02/its-bigger-but.html and http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2008/03/its-bigger-but.html — the upshot being that the proprietary scaling algorithms aren't a clear win over bicubic." CreationDate="2011-02-24T19:46:55.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13051" PostId="521" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8965/what-is-the-golden-ratio-and-why-is-it-better-than-the-rule-of-thirds, which has some good additional information." CreationDate="2011-02-24T19:48:33.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13052" PostId="9229" Score="3" Text="It might help a bit (or confuse) if you think that light = rain and a pixel = bucket. And in a CMOS sensor, the only way to check how much water you have in each bucket is to empty the bucket. You can only empty the buckets one by one, and it is raining all the time. The &quot;movie mode&quot; simply means that you are running around in the rain, emptying the buckets. The &quot;photo mode&quot; is different: first set up a cover on top of your field of buckets; then you go around and empty each bucket; then you remove the cover for a while and put it back (&quot;exposure&quot;); then you empty each bucket and measure them." CreationDate="2011-02-24T20:43:56.690" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13053" PostId="9229" Text="@Jukka Suomela: Nice analogy, except for one minor point: it can actually empty an entire &quot;row of buckets&quot; at once, not just one." CreationDate="2011-02-24T20:45:17.163" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13054" PostId="9229" Text="@Jerry: Yeah. Tried to keep it simple (and 600 characters long)." CreationDate="2011-02-24T20:57:31.937" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13055" PostId="9229" Text="Amazing explanation @Jukka ! Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-24T21:26:37.447" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="13056" PostId="9234" Score="1" Text="Have you tried the exposure and fill light tools in ACR? I've pulled 8 stops of recovery using those tools alone and, I think, the result is better than the linked sample. I'll admit that I wasn't especially impressed by it, the outcome was quite noisy, but the GIMP is also only 8 bit images, so that probably doesn't help." CreationDate="2011-02-24T22:16:59.233" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13057" PostId="9233" Text="Hmm. It'd be pretty easy to script up that iterative bicubic scaling as a gimp script, or a photoshop action...." CreationDate="2011-02-24T22:24:44.937" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13058" PostId="9236" Score="1" Text="Having a chart doesn't really help in the absence of a distance scale on the lens. Auto hyperfocal focussing would be easy to implement in the body but noone does this..." CreationDate="2011-02-24T23:03:56.400" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13059" PostId="6543" Score="1" Text="If that link stops working, this answer will be useless. " CreationDate="2011-02-24T23:12:35.193" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13060" PostId="8043" Text="Here's an example of a Gimp plugin which takes advantage of this kind of knowledge! http://docs.gimp.org/en/plug-in-retinex.html" CreationDate="2011-02-24T23:17:09.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13061" PostId="9234" Score="9" Text="I think this question would benefit from a short explanation of what the filter does and how it differs from normal shadow recovery. " CreationDate="2011-02-24T23:18:28.797" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13062" PostId="9236" Text="@Matt - BTW, It is called Pan focus and is available on some Casio and Pentax fixed-lens cameras." CreationDate="2011-02-24T23:53:51.427" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13063" PostId="4721" Text="Thank you so much for posting image examples.  (Though, perhaps you could inline them?)  Great example." CreationDate="2011-02-25T00:13:29.607" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13064" PostId="9233" Text="I have tried it as a photoshop action, however I wasn't successful, since it required computing information. I don't really do much scripting with Photoshop, so I'm not sure if it supports mathematic functions or scripting." CreationDate="2011-02-25T01:38:36.950" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13065" PostId="9175" Text="+1 for singing the macro's praises.  I own the EF 100mm Macro, and I absolutely love it.  It takes gorgeous shots and the 100mm (160mm equivalent on my camera) makes for some great composition/DoF." CreationDate="2011-02-25T02:39:51.670" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="13066" PostId="9074" Text="You can use a sheet of white paper for color balance, but you have to make sure it's pure white, and not &quot;bright white&quot;, which means they've probably added a touch of blue to it. Black paper will also work, along with any neutral tone from pure white to pure black. Grays work best but the others will do. As far as using white for exposure, you can do it, but the camera will try to make white into a neutral 18% gray so you have to open up two stops if I remember right." CreationDate="2011-02-25T02:42:23.887" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13067" PostId="9236" Text="@Itai — no, that's different. At least, the pan-focus lens for the Pentax Auto110 is just always locked at a pre-set hyperfocal distance. And likewise I think the Casio cameras lock the aperture at f/5.6 and the zoom at the widest angle. An auto-hyperfocal focus mode would work with any autofocus lens, and would automatically set the focus distance based on the focal length, aperture, and a user-set acceptable circle of confusion." CreationDate="2011-02-25T02:52:45.567" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13068" PostId="9207" Text="Good tip on fully-lit pre-focusing, I will remember that!  Of course, if you're not pre-focusing, it's very beneficial to have a manual focus override, but that's generally an expensive option." CreationDate="2011-02-25T02:53:14.380" UserId="4002" />
  <row Id="13069" PostId="534" Text="The rule of thirds doesn't necessarily always mean where to &quot;place your subject&quot; but also to do with general composition. For example, placing one noticeable element of the frame on a point or line and your subject on another, or placing the eyes of a centered person's face on the thirds line to balance the portrait within the frame." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:23:10.670" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13070" PostId="528" Text="You could say it is a simplification, if not an actual derived simplification originally." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:23:54.600" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13071" PostId="9239" Text="Thanks for that. For me, the golden ratio is no more than a more scientifically researched / mathematical approach to dividing the frame. After all, the rule of thirds and golden ratio are somewhat subjective, if not &quot;proven&quot; to work more than not." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:30:10.783" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13072" PostId="9234" Text="The sample image given in the linked page is pretty bad, and probably does not show off the possibilities of this filter very well." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:41:38.727" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13073" PostId="528" Score="1" Text="@Nick Bedford: I guess, but that seems to include some judgment — a &quot;simplification&quot; is by implication less accurate. (To turn it around, what if one would say that it's a &quot;refinement of the golden ratio&quot;?) But I think it's just different. Is a 4x3 frame a simplification of a 3x2 frame?" CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:42:38.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13075" PostId="9239" Text="There are definitely some interesting mathematics involved in _phi_, and yeah, one can clearly see that for Smith at least, the rule of thirds is a matter of &quot;this feels right&quot; rather than any sort of science. Honestly, I'm personally not sure if &quot;this feels right&quot; is all that bad, when it comes to composition — but I also share an interest in art which explores math and science (perhaps simply for the sake of math and science, not necessarily because of a mystic beauty response humans may or may not have to a certain number)." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:47:13.733" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13076" PostId="2209" Text="M42 mount is often referred to as the Pentax screw mount, because it was used on Pentax SLRs before they switched to their bayonet mount.  Many people now assume that it was Pentax specific, but it wasn't.  Pentax just popularised it." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:49:30.313" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13077" PostId="9239" Text="@Nick Bedford: Also see my answer at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8965/what-is-the-golden-ratio-and-why-is-it-better-than-the-rule-of-thirds/9213#9213, for some (I think!) interesting bits about the natural mathematics of the rule of thirds in a 3:2 frame. This (somewhat ironically) has very little to do with Smith's conception of the rule of thirds, but since many of us are shooting with dSLRs with native aspect ration of 3:2 is worth thinking about if you're interested in mathematically-inclined composition." CreationDate="2011-02-25T04:54:07.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13078" PostId="9234" Text="If your French is ok, or you have a google translation plugin, this page by the plugin author has some better details on the actual math behind the plugin. http://www-prima.inrialpes.fr/pelisson/MSRCR.php" CreationDate="2011-02-25T05:07:50.020" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13079" PostId="9239" Score="1" Text="Also, isn't the approximate field of view for humans roughly 180 degrees horizontal, 120 degrees vertically? If so, it's a pretty good analog for that." CreationDate="2011-02-25T05:16:37.060" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13080" PostId="9242" Text="How does sensor size influence depth of field?  Isn't it really that small sensor size ==&gt; small focal length ==&gt; small depth of field?" CreationDate="2011-02-25T05:42:57.957" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13081" PostId="9242" Score="1" Text="@whuber it's small sensor size ==&gt; small focal length [to get normal coverage] ==&gt; *large* depth of field" CreationDate="2011-02-25T06:04:11.133" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="13082" PostId="9242" Text="@geriksen Sorry, and thank you; I meant to write &quot;large depth of field,&quot; but the lure of repeating all the &quot;smalls&quot; (and the late hour) distracted me!" CreationDate="2011-02-25T06:12:31.947" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13083" PostId="9222" Text="good link. thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-02-25T10:10:26.657" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13084" PostId="9231" Text="the only answer that actually answers the question!  ;)" CreationDate="2011-02-25T10:10:58.450" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13085" PostId="8866" Score="1" Text="How could this be off topic, in order to have photography, or editing you must purchase equipment somewhere.  This is a legit question, otherwise it wouldn't have gotten so many upvotes..." CreationDate="2011-02-25T13:28:58.950" UserId="1309" />
  <row Id="13086" PostId="9243" Text="Thanks for your very comprehensive answer - I never actually knew about the depth of field effect (or lack of effect above a certain distance) on these cameras. I have often wondered why I didn't seem to get the expected shallow depth of field with my LX5 despite often shooting with the aperture wide-open at F2." CreationDate="2011-02-25T13:54:48.297" UserId="3263" />
  <row Id="13087" PostId="9247" Score="1" Text="+1 for the monopod, they aren't always allowed, but you have a far better chance than with a tripod, which are almost always off-limits because they get in the way of other patrons." CreationDate="2011-02-25T14:18:18.113" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13088" PostId="9250" Text="I would *guess* that the sensor looks like this: A_A_ABABABABA_A_A; in each row, there are 1280 pixels of type A and and additional 960 pixels of type B in the middle part. If you crop the middle part and take both A and B pixels, you will have the horizontal resolution of 1920 (and narrow field of view). If you take all A pixels, you will have the horizontal resolution of 1280 (and wide field of view)." CreationDate="2011-02-25T14:19:39.153" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13089" PostId="9213" Text="@mattdm - +1  This makes sense.  I've heard a lot of arguments (both here and in other places) stating that using &quot;golden sections&quot; really only makes sense for a golden rectangle crop.  The special rule isn't the &quot;rule of thirds&quot; or the &quot;golden ratio,&quot; but rabatment of the rectangle.  Looking more into the golden ratio leads me to believe that this might be the underlying &quot;rule&quot; that makes the golden rectangle (or rule of thirds) attractive in the first place.  http://emptyeasel.com/2009/01/20/a-guide-to-the-golden-ratio-aka-golden-section-or-golden-mean-for-artists/" CreationDate="2011-02-25T15:11:53.327" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="13090" PostId="9236" Text="@mattdm - I'll have to check but I do not recall the zoom being locked on the Casio (FC-100 or Z2000). That is also not the Pentax I was thinking about, they are the Optio H90, I10, E90, WS80, P90 (and a few others). You can set the zoom and set the focus mode to 'Pan'. It will set the focus according the the hyperfocal at a fixed aperture which depends on the focal-length. " CreationDate="2011-02-25T15:36:11.227" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13091" PostId="9251" Score="1" Text="If there is enough light, you can use a polarizer for this but that depends on the museum. Some are incredibly dark." CreationDate="2011-02-25T15:38:50.333" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13092" PostId="9042" Text="The whole debate touches on a subject that Eugene Wigner famously wrote about in his paper 'The Unreasonable Effectiveness of Mathematics in the Natural Sciences': http://www.dartmouth.edu/~matc/MathDrama/reading/Wigner.html Why does mathematics describe the world so well and give it such predictive ability? And here is the Wikipedia article about the same subject: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Unreasonable_Effectiveness_of_Mathematics_in_the_Natural_Sciences" CreationDate="2011-02-25T15:46:22.553" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13093" PostId="9251" Score="2" Text="+1 for the reference to that awesome book :D" CreationDate="2011-02-25T15:58:17.277" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13094" PostId="9042" Score="2" Text="@labnut: I'm a mathematician.  It's dangerous to talk about such questions with a mathematician in the room!  We have a habit of trying to answer ..." CreationDate="2011-02-25T16:05:37.383" UserId="1422" />
  <row Id="13095" PostId="9236" Text="@Itai — cool. But stil, the aperture needn't be fixed either in a true auto-hyperfocal mode." CreationDate="2011-02-25T16:24:30.253" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13096" PostId="9256" Score="1" Text="Splendid answer.  Slight digression, but really interesting!  Love the shot of the pro shooting the scupture.  Did he bring enough gear?" CreationDate="2011-02-25T16:47:18.670" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13097" PostId="9254" Text="Thank you for helping us to lift our eyes momentarily from the technical to the real-world!  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-25T16:48:43.580" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13098" PostId="9259" Text="+1 A really nice, well-written answer that directly and knowledgeably addresses the question without getting technical." CreationDate="2011-02-25T18:41:22.380" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13099" PostId="9259" Text="@whuber: thanks! :)" CreationDate="2011-02-25T18:54:12.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13100" PostId="9236" Text="@mattm - Right! It does not. Although I suspect the fixed aperture often occurs because there is only one real value on many small cameras. The camera used an ND filter to simulate less light coming in and adjusts the EXIF aperture accordingly even though the diameter of the iris did not change and neither does DOF, obviously." CreationDate="2011-02-25T21:05:48.090" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13102" PostId="9261" Score="1" Text="Check out this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2760/how-to-start-the-basics-of-photography-which-is-the-best-entry-level-slr-camera/2763#2763 " CreationDate="2011-02-25T23:16:52.747" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="13103" PostId="9261" Text="Thanks for the links!" CreationDate="2011-02-25T23:25:25.647" UserId="4058" />
  <row Id="13104" PostId="9262" Score="3" Text="The idea of Stack Exchange is that &quot;Googling a bit&quot; would lead someone here, with a definitive and/or useful answer." CreationDate="2011-02-25T23:29:12.353" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13105" PostId="9263" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8124/what-does-expanded-iso-mean and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2946/how-is-iso-implemented-in-digital-cameras" CreationDate="2011-02-26T01:20:36.927" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13107" PostId="9239" Score="1" Text="@Nick Bedford: here's a guy who claims that the golden rectangle appeals to us *because* it happens to match our field of view: http://pda.physorg.com/_news180531747.html" CreationDate="2011-02-26T03:25:15.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13108" PostId="9264" Score="3" Text="*&quot;if the base ISO was lower, them you would need to use more gain to achieve higher sensitivities and you would get more noise&quot;* this is not necessarily true - there are two ways to decrease the native sensitivity of a sensor, one is to reduce efficiency (so fewer photons get through, essentially the same as always having an ND filter) the other is to increase the capacity of each pixel, allowing more light to come in before the signal clips and overexposure happens. Comment continued below..." CreationDate="2011-02-26T07:52:18.183" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13109" PostId="9264" Score="3" Text="...continued Both ways of reducing base ISO will require amplification to get to say ISO100, yes, but increasing ISO doesn't *introduce* noise (except a tiny amount in the amplification process). Noise mostly results from lack of light causing non-uniformity of the incoming photons. Increasing ISO can only reveal noise already present. So if you have an ISO25 sensor with a super high capacity per pixel you record the same number of incident photons per pixel as an ISO100 sensor, you have to amplify to get the same image but you wont have any extra noise in pushing the ISO25 sensor to ISO100!" CreationDate="2011-02-26T07:57:13.890" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13110" PostId="534" Text="Oops ignore me, I was thinking of 1.414 (root 2).  Deleting my comment..." CreationDate="2011-02-26T14:23:35.383" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13111" PostId="9268" Score="1" Text="It might be a great question, but it doesn't fit well with this site." CreationDate="2011-02-26T15:43:00.300" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13112" PostId="487" Score="4" Text="The problem with this question is that new models come out every few months, making the answer a changing target. An answer given back when this question was asked in July '10 would certainly be obsolete by now. A better question might be &quot;what to look for in an camera for a newbie&quot; (like this one http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2876), or _maybe_ &quot;what review sites are helpful in finding the current best camera for my needs&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-02-26T15:46:45.570" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13113" PostId="534" Text="@Guffa — since I did all of the ridiculous research in my answer to this question, I'm trying to improve the wikipedia article while I'm at it. Do you have a source for the idea of the positive and negative points? That's really interesting." CreationDate="2011-02-26T15:56:45.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13117" PostId="9272" Score="2" Text="Another big component is the huge reduction in UV light caused by the longer pathway through the atmosphere. Sensors aren't bothered by UV in the same way film is, but a lot of things in nature fluoresce somewhat under UV, making them not only reflectors but emitters of light, and that can significantly reduce the saturation of reflected colours." CreationDate="2011-02-26T20:43:38.833" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13118" PostId="9217" Text="Is it really at ISO 1600?  The EXIF data says its 1/60, f/3.2, ISO 400 with flash, taken with a nifty fifty." CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:02:09.693" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="13119" PostId="9233" Score="2" Text="+1 Wow, fantastic detailed answer.  I thought this was a boring question until I read your answer." CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:20:55.737" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="13120" PostId="8046" Text="@mattdm: Are you implying that sensors have a spike response, only for a single wavelength each? [They don't](http://www.definitionmagazine.com/journal/2010/5/7/capturing-colour.html). The dotted lines in [this graph](http://i.imgur.com/M5zQN.jpg) represent the sensor response (of a 3-chip camera), the solid ones represent the eye response. They're pretty close. I don't know why they're not equal - probably we haven't perfected the tech yet." CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:40:46.487" UserId="4075" />
  <row Id="13121" PostId="8043" Score="1" Text="Here's a [great article on many aspects of color theory](http://blog.asmartbear.com/color-wheels.html). It's not specific to photography so I'm posting it as a comment." CreationDate="2011-02-26T22:44:04.630" UserId="4075" />
  <row Id="13122" PostId="153" Text="To look at it another way, Nikon has the smallest lens selection.  Because it has the longest flange to focal length distance, you can only use Nikon mount lenses on it.  On a Canon, you can use either Canon or, with an adapter, Nikon lenses (albeit only using manual focus and aperture).  If using something like Sony NEX, Olympus/Panasonic m4/3, or Leica M, then you can use virtually any lens from any manufacturer including Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Sony A, etc, albeit only in manual focus and aperture mode.  Note that Canon EOS lenses with no aperture ring are useless on most other bodies.  etc.." CreationDate="2011-02-27T07:55:25.653" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13123" PostId="9217" Text="Really? Maybe I was looking at the wrong photo on Flickr. Will replace with an ISO 1600 shot." CreationDate="2011-02-27T09:53:31.713" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13124" PostId="9279" Score="6" Text="Well if the photos weren't worth it, he wouldn't be asking the question here, right?" CreationDate="2011-02-27T11:41:01.387" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13125" PostId="9275" Text="Thank you for this @rm999 - it seems to wrap up all the answers into a ball of thoughtfulness. But aren't vividness and saturation slightly different qualities? I have [a picture showing exactly your example](http://www.flickr.com/photos/seatrout/2475696357/lightbox/) but I see now it was taken in the evening, which explains why it is so saturated.  " CreationDate="2011-02-27T12:23:42.777" UserId="4072" />
  <row Id="13126" PostId="534" Text="@mattdm: I don't remember where I learned this, but I thought that it was much more well known than it seems to be from my search results. I found this article talking about the different strengths of the points: http://photography.about.com/od/takingpictures/a/ruleofthirdsdet.htm" CreationDate="2011-02-27T12:32:33.127" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="13127" PostId="534" Text="@Guffa — cool, thanks. " CreationDate="2011-02-27T14:04:36.370" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13128" PostId="9266" Text="+1 Fine answer (as always).  Just to stave off possible misconceptions from future readers, though, please note that when you let in more light at ISO 50, you actually get *more* shot noise compared to the ISO 100 sensor.  The point is that the typical amount of noise (in root mean square) *relative* to the amount of incident light goes down.  (Quantitatively, dividing the native ISO by 4 reduces shot noise by one full stop relative to the signal.)" CreationDate="2011-02-27T15:48:20.453" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13129" PostId="9266" Text="Thanks! When I say *less noise* I'm almost always talking about the signal to noise ratio. It rarely makes sense to talk about absolute noise levels, and when you have more light, signal to noise ratio always improves (all else being equal)" CreationDate="2011-02-27T16:03:48.357" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13130" PostId="7750" Text="Exactly.  It's IMAGE stabilization, not scene stabilization." CreationDate="2011-02-27T17:22:02.810" UserId="1843" />
  <row Id="13131" PostId="9280" Score="3" Text="+1. I'd use black gaffers tape to tape over all identifying logos, and, as you said, make the gear look like it's falling apart." CreationDate="2011-02-27T17:29:56.403" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13133" PostId="9279" Text="It might be worth taking photos, but not risking your best equipment." CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:22:05.257" UserId="3739" />
  <row Id="13134" PostId="9278" Text="As another denizen of a very high crime rate country I agree with all of your points. Some comments though. Visitors always look conspicuous, usually the pale winter skin is a dead give away, not to mention differences in dress. I carry pepper spray, it is very effective and the police of my locality swear by it. The most important point, I think, is situational awareness. Be aware of people watching you and following you. Then do your best to keep a distance, never let them crowd you. The warning signs are two or more young local males who seem alert and watchful. Always look behind you." CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:27:27.863" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13135" PostId="9284" Score="3" Text="One tiny caveat, though -- they don't work well in a dark environment with accent lighting, since they rely on diffuse lighting from the environment to provide the &quot;white&quot;. When they're displayed properly, they are spectacular -- almost like a daguerreotype -- but there are some locations where they just won't work (also like a daguerreotype), and something a little more like a ferrotype (not the emulsion-on-iron version, I mean the *glossy print dried face-down on a polished surface* effect) would be more appropriate for increasing contrast." CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:30:00.793" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13136" PostId="9287" Score="1" Text="... and it lets you use contrast-detection autofocus anywhere in the image with a draggable and sizable focus point (along with being able to set just about anything that can be set from the camera body)." CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:33:34.830" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13137" PostId="9278" Text="Continued. It really helps to have someone watch your back. You are terribly vulnerable while you compose your photo in the viewfinder." CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:35:06.313" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13138" PostId="487" Text="I have converted this to wiki, for now. It has garnered a lot of attention, however the answers are extremely varied and lacking in the kind of quality I think we really want here on Photo-SE. I will give the OP one last chance to be a bit more specific about exactly what kind of photography they will be doing, and make the question less subjective, and if we can get some revisions and improvements on the answers so far provided, I'll let it be. Otherwise, I think closure is appropriate." CreationDate="2011-02-27T21:16:12.153" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13142" PostId="681" Text="Is the Canon S5IS's manual mode really that similar in operation to Canon's DSLRs? Looking at the pictures on [dpreview](http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canonS5is/page2.asp), I don't even see a wheel for shutter/aperture selection. I would bet that _any_ DSLR is going to have roughly the same learning curve, including Canon's." CreationDate="2011-02-27T21:55:52.090" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13143" PostId="9288" Text="This is how I am doing it with darktable, with the addition that I can predefine the picture tags and the name of the &quot;film roll&quot;. Now I wanted to try it out over HDMI, but the cable I have is too big to go into the camera. Does HDMI have different connector standards like USB? But it wouldn't have helped in my case, as what I needed was not a real portrait but a picture of the fitting of a misconstructed scye I wanted to ask about on a tailoring forum. So I was working in almost-macro range with a very shallow DOF, meaning that prefocus and then change posture didn't work" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:26:10.027" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="13144" PostId="9292" Score="1" Text="Pacsafe is great. That's how I tie my bags to the hotel, as described in my answer." CreationDate="2011-02-28T00:11:48.723" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13145" PostId="9288" Text="TVs and Monitor use standard HDMI connectors. While cameras and camcorders use Mini-HDMI. You can buy a HDMI to Mini HDMI cable or an adapter which you stick at the end of a HDMI-to-HDMI cable. The official naming of the cables is confusing, Mini HDMI 1.3 Type C is usually what you are looking for. The camera manual will confirm this exactly (at least they aren't proprietary variants like with mini-USB, or I have not seen any yet)." CreationDate="2011-02-28T00:16:05.993" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13146" PostId="9287" Text="Sounds nice, but $179? It seems to be the same software which is already running on the camera (or at least a software with the same function scope), only in a version which can be run on an external processor - including the draggable focus point, which is already present in LiveView mode on the camera. Such a thing shouldn't cost as much as one and a half Windows licenses. I guess that if I was making money from pictures, I'd grumble and buy it, but as it is, I'm just grumbling. Thanks for the info though, it's always good to know what my camera could do with additional tools. " CreationDate="2011-02-28T00:17:07.937" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="13147" PostId="9281" Text="+1 for &quot;I've only been to 47 countries&quot; :D" CreationDate="2011-02-28T00:46:56.777" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13148" PostId="9293" Text="Since there aren't software patents in Europe (or at least, not in the same way there are in the US; at least, not yet), it's actually quite possible that it's just a straightforward implementation of the algorithm." CreationDate="2011-02-28T02:52:23.060" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13149" PostId="9293" Text="More exactly, while the European Patent Office issues patents on software, their validity is up in the air, and particularly so in France: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Software_patents_under_the_European_Patent_Convention#France" CreationDate="2011-02-28T02:55:08.907" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13150" PostId="9234" Text="I can't help but note that this software is a practical example of what I was getting at with my turned-out-to-be-controversial question about human perception of color. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8043/" CreationDate="2011-02-28T02:58:25.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13151" PostId="9290" Score="4" Text="It is difficult to find exactly what the DIGIC processor does, but it clearly does much more than JPEG conversion and is involved in fundamental parts of the raw image creation pipeline, including autofocusing and noise reduction.  See http://www.dpreview.com/news/0209/02091601canontech.asp or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeNRKvX1kLo .  Therefore we should conclude that raw image quality *will* be affected by improvements in this processor." CreationDate="2011-02-28T03:03:43.903" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13153" PostId="7805" Text="&quot;I thought about getting a 4/3 body precisely for that, but i wanted a dslr for that extra punch of IQ&quot;&#xA;A micro 4/3 (or Sony NEX for that matter) has image quality far more comparable with a DSLR than any compact." CreationDate="2011-02-28T03:49:02.900" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13154" PostId="9284" Text="Another caveat is that putting the metal prints behind glass cuts down on some of the gloss of the image." CreationDate="2011-02-28T04:04:35.120" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="13155" PostId="9290" Text="Unless you turn off all the image processing, which is probably a good idea anyways (e.g. no noise reduction, etc...)." CreationDate="2011-02-28T04:09:43.823" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13156" PostId="9284" Text="Great point about the strong light source @Stan, I forget that folks a lot of times display images in weak light. @Brad, yeah, but you have that problem with standard glossy images too... part of why I hate putting prints behind glass if I don't have to." CreationDate="2011-02-28T05:22:24.130" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13157" PostId="9280" Score="3" Text="Just remember when taping over logos not to use a 2&quot; x 3&quot; length of tape that's **obviously** taping over a logo. I've seen that at the airport a couple times and just laughed. To follow along with kloucks' point though, it sometimes works better to take a knife or seam ripper and remove the logo permanently. The &quot;damaged&quot; look that results adds to the &quot;make it look less like it's valuable&quot; camo, and if done right won't compromise the bag." CreationDate="2011-02-28T05:29:54.093" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13158" PostId="9293" Text="Could be. I really got the feeling (though it's nothing I could pin down enough to give a citation) that the Retinex algorithm was 'state of the art' circa 2003, but it has since been surpassed by better methods of image processing... Which potentially would explain why there aren't a bunch of Retinex clones to be found..." CreationDate="2011-02-28T06:46:15.773" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13159" PostId="9294" Text="FWIW - I am not familiar with the Nikon standard, but for Canon Digital Rebel series, you can actually assemble a wired remote easily yourself, since the connector is a plain 2.5mm stereo plug. See http://www.diyphotography.net/release_cable_for_canon_dslr (you don't have to go that fancy. I did with one toggle switch)." CreationDate="2011-02-28T06:46:57.870" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13160" PostId="9255" Text="Yeah, that's my understanding as well. And it doesn't explain the _increased_ field of view for lower resolutions. Only that the FOV can be the same or smaller for lower resolutions. I think Jukka might be right in his comment." CreationDate="2011-02-28T07:04:33.137" UserId="4049" />
  <row Id="13161" PostId="9250" Text="@Jukka I think you might be right, post an answer so you can get some credit" CreationDate="2011-02-28T07:05:36.693" UserId="4049" />
  <row Id="13162" PostId="9278" Text="beware of pepperspray, labnut.&#xA;In many countries it's considered a weapon and there are severe penalties for having a can on you. These can range from a fine of several thousand dollars to years in prison." CreationDate="2011-02-28T07:19:26.513" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13163" PostId="9283" Text="And said monopod can in an emergency make a decent club to defend yourself.&#xA;Carry it strapped on your wrist and you might deter assault. Look armed when you're not (and I've yet to see a country outlawing monopods as deadly weapons, in contrast to nightsticks, pepperspray, and knives)." CreationDate="2011-02-28T07:25:09.473" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13164" PostId="9279" Text="Insurance might not be worth it. I've looked at a few policies and all of them were so costly it'd be better to set aside the premiums in a savings account. They were in fact so high that if you do that you'd be able to replace your entire kit every 2-3 years rather than have to hope the insurance company doesn't find a reason to not pay out (and they will look for one, and almost always find it) when and if you get mugged once every decade or so." CreationDate="2011-02-28T07:27:41.237" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13165" PostId="5513" Text="UV filters are worse than useless. They reduce image quality without doing anything." CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:07:07.630" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13166" PostId="9303" Score="16" Text="Its clearly mentioned by the owner: &quot;I'm not looking for an advice on whether to use UV filter for lens protection&quot;" CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:09:42.717" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13167" PostId="5509" Text="UV filters are useless on ALL modern cameras (modern meaning designed in the last 20-30 years) and films (same timeframe)." CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:10:43.307" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13168" PostId="1322" Text="&quot;filter that is broken, as noted, can scratch the lens, thus undoing any protection it may have offered in the first place.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;worse still, I've had (when I still used filters for &quot;protection&quot;) had a lens get bumped, causing the filter to not only crack but the brass ring and thread to get distorted, jamming it on the lens. Required a vice and heavy pliers to remove, caused permanent damage to the thread on the lens.&#xA;Without a filter, nothing would have happened to the heavier steel thread on the lens." CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:18:43.133" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13169" PostId="3409" Score="1" Text="heck, I've one lens with a chip out of the front element. There's no visible effect on the produced images (tbh, it's an 87mm front element and the chip is maybe 5mm long on the very edge, so out of the path of most if not all light reaching the filmplane)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:22:37.700" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13170" PostId="9303" Score="2" Text="it does need mentioning why he should get the best if he insists on getting them at all. If there were some reason to use them, even the cheapest would be better than something. As there isn't such a reason, using the best only will at least lead to some damage control." CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:26:34.673" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13171" PostId="9297" Text="I find the &quot;need to keep aiming at the camera's IR receiver&quot; hinders me often, not only in bulb mode. You have to always be in front of the camera, shooting from behind it only functions if you are close enough to stretch your arm forwards and hit the receiver." CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:53:10.943" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="13172" PostId="9304" Score="2" Text="well that's simply not true. Try to take the same picture with a UV filter and without on a normal film camera and you'll have very different results for water, snows, glasses etc." CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:56:39.220" UserId="2507" />
  <row Id="13173" PostId="4085" Text="it used to be standard, but Nikon had to shift their consumer line to lens mounted motors in order to compete on body price with Canon's consumer bodies. Of course this caused an increase in the price of consumer lenses (or reduction on the margin on them). " CreationDate="2011-02-28T10:23:44.330" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13174" PostId="8615" Text="good advise. While I don't replace mine as frequently,I do use smaller cards rather than a few very large ones.&#xA;After having 2 8GB Sandisks fail in sequence not a few months apart (the 2nd being a warranty replacement for the 1st, which was only a few months old) I've not taken to using 4GB cards exclusively with my D200. Sadly the only brand carried here of any name is Sandisk, or I'd carry a spread of brands as well." CreationDate="2011-02-28T10:26:50.927" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13175" PostId="2360" Text="Another problem with plastic is that it more easily attracts dust (static charge) than does glass." CreationDate="2011-02-28T10:36:50.877" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13176" PostId="8954" Text="Sure a pile of bricks would do! Or just a used, 20- to 30-year-old pro tripod on ebay/garage sale/pawn shop/etc. You won't find really old carbon fibre ones, but I'll bet there's some cheap, ancient yet sturdy tripods about." CreationDate="2011-02-28T11:58:03.957" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="13177" PostId="9294" Text="If you can swing it, go for both. I have both for the K-5 and will use them, the reasons for that are already enumerated by a few responses. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:07:36.173" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13178" PostId="9283" Text="I think this is especially true for landscapes (unless you're shooting for super high res / large prints), because you're not using high ISOs or large apertures, so glass quality is a little less crucial than other types of photography." CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:27:27.923" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="13179" PostId="9278" Score="2" Text="and... a way of backing up your photos onto cards or a hdd in a different bag, or in the hotel safe, so if you *do* get robbed, you're only losing that day's photos not the whole trip" CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:29:39.857" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="13180" PostId="9307" Score="2" Text="I wish I could vote this up, but I don't think it's true. This feature is rare-to-nonexistent on entry-level dSLRs, and even the one-step-up models. Basically, it's another case of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost/5889#5889" CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:33:33.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13181" PostId="9309" Score="2" Text="On Pentax, it's the &quot;User&quot; mode; there's a dial setting for it, but on newer models you also choose *which* of several profiles through the back LCD." CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:34:56.180" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13182" PostId="9301" Text="I know you don't want to hear it, but see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9257/what-causes-lens-flare" CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:35:44.760" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13183" PostId="9303" Score="2" Text="He can _say_ he's not looking for advice, but it's still a good answer." CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:37:25.057" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13184" PostId="9278" Text="lol if i get robbed while carrying a 5dmkII and a 24-70mm L, i wont mind losing the photos of the trip as well! In fact I might throw them out the card the moment I reach the hotel!" CreationDate="2011-02-28T12:37:26.840" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13185" PostId="9304" Score="1" Text="I use good quality UV filters to protect my lenses and keep them clean. This it does very well. The loss of image quality is imperceptible in almost all cases. In the few cases where I think it might matter I simply remove the filter, quick, easy and no big deal. Of course, if others choose not to use them, I shrug and move on. I am not sure why the issue arouses so much emotion." CreationDate="2011-02-28T13:22:53.230" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13186" PostId="9303" Score="1" Text="I think this is good advice, however, it doesn't really answer the question." CreationDate="2011-02-28T13:25:07.173" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13187" PostId="9301" Score="1" Text="It's worth noting that the non-MRC B+W filters still use an advanced multi-coating." CreationDate="2011-02-28T13:35:32.867" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13188" PostId="9297" Text="Yes, in bulb mode it can be more critical. Do note that some cameras offer receivers on the front and back." CreationDate="2011-02-28T13:55:11.920" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13189" PostId="9303" Score="7" Text="I have to agree with @Shutterbug. We should answer the question. He was not asking whether he should be using UV filters. That is an entirely different question which has been debated to death and hardly needs to be resurrected." CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:07:57.683" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13190" PostId="9311" Text="My Olympus C5060 (which was a great bridge camera for its time) had four &quot;User&quot; modes." CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:26:54.633" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13191" PostId="9307" Text="@mattdm - Edited based on your comment. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:28:52.423" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13192" PostId="9302" Score="2" Text="+1 for explaining what MRC stands for!  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:32:16.237" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13193" PostId="9307" Text="The 5D mkII (and I think the MkI) has this feature.  It allows 3 profiles to be set up.  " CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:40:36.010" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13194" PostId="9310" Text="Referencing the manual - love it!  +1  :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:41:28.350" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13195" PostId="9307" Score="2" Text="I still wish you could have edited reality instead of your comment, so that the original were actually true.:)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:56:32.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13196" PostId="9303" Text="Okay, fair enough. :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:57:33.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13197" PostId="9307" Text="@mattdm - LOL, true I guess. I tend to think about dSLRs based on what I shoot, so I just assumed that such a simple feature would be present outside of the semi-pro to pro lines." CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:08:09.597" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13198" PostId="9310" Text="@AJ Finch Well, it made sense when I had it to hand :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:09:27.723" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="13199" PostId="9278" Text="@jwenting, it is certainly legal in my locality" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:47:29.750" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13200" PostId="9290" Score="3" Text="@Fake The quotation specifically mentions the DIGIC 4 includes the ADC.  Without that, there would be no raw image, period.  This causes me to suspect that some of the advertised &quot;noise reduction&quot; occurs within the digitization of the analog signal itself and therefore cannot be turned off." CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:50:32.210" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13201" PostId="883" Text="+1 for this, but just to spell it out: f/2.8 at 200mm means an aperture of about 70mm — the focal length divided by the stop number. If you use a converter to make that 200mm×1.4 = 280mm, that works out to 280mm/70mm = f/4. Nothing complicated about it." CreationDate="2011-02-28T16:17:31.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13202" PostId="9317" Text="Note also that they appear to have done some very selective modifications in order to keep parts of the image from going nuclear white while still accomplishing what they wanted in the image. (the sweater in the 3rd image, the eyes in both the 1st and 3rd.)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T16:43:41.213" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13204" PostId="9314" Score="8" Text="@chills42 - Do we have permission from the photographer to include tho photos here? If so, how did you check and obtain permission? Are there any implications for the photographer as well? PS: If this is a complex topic, maybe we can move it to meta. Seems very important." CreationDate="2011-02-28T17:39:29.560" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13205" PostId="9319" Text="thanks Shizam, now to hunt for some batteries! At least mir also lists batteries I can use instead of mercury ones." CreationDate="2011-02-28T17:46:09.313" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="13206" PostId="9250" Text="@Jukka you may be right but it seems like a lot of effort to go to in order to provide slightly higher def in the centre of the frame and I doubt GoPro manufacture sensors so they'd have to commission a custom design which would cost a lot more than buying a stock sensor." CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:16:11.213" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13207" PostId="9250" Text="Actually from the specs the camera can take 5mp stills, so it is variable subsampling rather than a A_A_ABABABABA_A_A design" CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:24:15.980" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13208" PostId="9277" Text="Thank you all for your detailed answers!" CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:47:45.220" UserId="3789" />
  <row Id="13209" PostId="9278" Text="I will remember the journalist trick :)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:49:00.237" UserId="3789" />
  <row Id="13210" PostId="9281" Text="Thanks for your valuable thoughts and your experience from travelling &quot;only&quot; 47 countries." CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:50:55.047" UserId="3789" />
  <row Id="13211" PostId="9314" Text="I have no way to know, as these are links from blogspot. I am assuming that @pregzt has permission, however, this is simply an inline link, and no copy has been made of the image. We are only including links to the 3 images." CreationDate="2011-02-28T18:59:21.020" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13212" PostId="9309" Text="Would the U1 / U2 settings on Nikon's D7000 have a similar functionality to Canon's custom setups?" CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:05:22.357" UserId="1315" />
  <row Id="13213" PostId="9320" Text="I agree the original examples were heavily post-processed, as Itai points out the noise in the shadows on the boy's cheek and below his jaw and as Coffin points out about the color saturation and the whites of his eyes (1st and 2nd photos)." CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:08:50.113" UserId="4096" />
  <row Id="13214" PostId="9309" Text="Looks like it. I don't own a D7000, so I didn't realize Nikon had started copying Canon. :-) Updating my answer to reflect this new info. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:20:36.407" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13215" PostId="9309" Text="One advantage of having menu-based modes is that they can be renamed — on the Pentax K-5, your modes can literally be &quot;low light&quot;, &quot;remote flash&quot;, &quot;ettr&quot;, and so on." CreationDate="2011-02-28T19:52:35.813" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13216" PostId="9308" Text="The 1D series doesn't have the C1/2/3 dial like the 7D etc. You can save profiles to the secondary memory card and load them from there I believe." CreationDate="2011-02-28T20:06:28.557" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="13217" PostId="9306" Text="@Eric: Remember to mark the answer that best answers your question as the &quot;accepted&quot; answer. Marking answers as accepted improves the visibility of that answer (it always shows first when sorting by 'votes'), and will improve your own answer acceptance rate (which is currently 0%, which might affect which people provide answers to your questions in the future.)" CreationDate="2011-02-28T21:26:02.610" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13218" PostId="9290" Text="@whuber - Aside from correlated-double-sampling (which is used in *Every* digital camera out there, and really doesn't count as &quot;noise reduction&quot;), everything else is done in post-processing. I know my 5D has the option to turn off noise reduction. " CreationDate="2011-02-28T23:32:03.810" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13219" PostId="9290" Text="I should probably point out that I have done some design work on the analog front-end for CCD cameras for astronomical work." CreationDate="2011-02-28T23:32:59.677" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13220" PostId="9309" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: If I'm not mistaken, Canon and Nikon are both copying Minolta (the Minolta 7D had it in 2004). When Sony took over the line, they continued to include it in high-end, but not &quot;entry-level&quot; models." CreationDate="2011-03-01T00:22:39.050" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13221" PostId="9314" Score="3" Text="@chills42 - Thank you for your response. Personally, I do not think this is doing the right thing. I do believe it warrants further discussion and so I have opened a question on Meta to solicit more opinions: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/834/should-we-disallow-hot-linking" CreationDate="2011-03-01T00:25:25.680" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13222" PostId="9309" Text="Entirely possible. Canon and Nikon are my camera brands of choice so I don't claim to be especially familiar with all the '2nd-string' camera brands... (Only kidding! Surely the Pentax boosters on photo-SE will be lighting their torches and digging out their pitchforks as soon as I post this). ;-) I rephrased my opening paragraph slightly to be more inclusive of camera brands, while still keeping detailed paragraphs regarding the two brands that I'm most familiar with." CreationDate="2011-03-01T00:50:24.113" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13223" PostId="9309" Text="@Jerry Coffin: Olympus had it in their bridge cameras as far back as 2002. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T00:57:59.533" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13224" PostId="8812" Text="For now, I'm in a small town with little action of any kind.  At least we have a good coffee shop.  Nearest bigger town is an hour drive away." CreationDate="2011-03-01T02:18:12.437" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="13225" PostId="9327" Score="1" Text="I own and operate 2 5DmkIIs of my own and I'm callin' in favors from a few folks in the biz that owe me, and I've conned... errr... convinced... Canon to loan me a few bodies/lenses in exchange for some sort of mutually beneficial promo stuff at some point. At this point *(crossed fingers)* it seems likely that I won't have to rent anything at all..." CreationDate="2011-03-01T02:36:00.417" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13226" PostId="9309" Text="@Mattdm: Yeah -- I was talking only about SLRs. Minolta had it in bridge cameras earlier as well (though I'm not sure of the exact model/date when it was introduced there)." CreationDate="2011-03-01T02:42:29.587" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13227" PostId="9327" Score="1" Text="I hadn't thought of the cross promo thing, you might see about something similar with Pocket Wizard. Sounds like a cool project." CreationDate="2011-03-01T02:45:17.477" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="13228" PostId="9322" Text="I just ask my significant other.  She already knows this stuff far better than I could ever hope to learn it!  (I think she learned it from visiting lots of museums, art exhibits, etc.  So a more practical suggestion might be: study, study, study!)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:01:32.313" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13229" PostId="9326" Text="It's pretty common for movies to do this actually, well, they usually will have a slight delay in-between, but..." CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:04:58.537" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="13231" PostId="9328" Score="1" Text="Might depend some on how the cameras are arranged for the shot. Unlike with Pentax, the 5D Mark II seems to only have an IR receiver in the front." CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:13:32.127" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13232" PostId="9326" Score="3" Text="But actually my real first response was: hey, that seems really cool. I hope you will share the results with us." CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:14:07.713" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13233" PostId="9328" Text="Not to go all Pentax partisan or anything. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:14:52.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13234" PostId="9326" Score="2" Text="Can't you just use a standard remote trigger cable?  It works by shorting two pins, right?  So, what you are looking for is a way to simultaneously short 10 (or *n*) cables.  Maybe a monster switch (or a series of cascading switches) connected to 10 (actually 16, since you'll probably need a 2^n number) cables (probably all the same lengths so you don't have to think about propagation delays) that plug in to your cameras.  You might get good results from Electronics and Robotics Stack Exchange!" CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:15:35.513" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13235" PostId="9329" Text="Actually, my understanding is that Jay doesn't mind being handy but will pay for it if it saves significant time in long run." CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:33:09.887" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13236" PostId="9329" Score="1" Text="My general rule of thumb boils down to: personal projects = handy. Professional projects = off-the-shelf. :-)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:36:56.917" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13238" PostId="9324" Text="That actually looks like a very good place to start - thanks." CreationDate="2011-03-01T05:09:49.940" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="13239" PostId="9326" Text="If you are only looking for an off-the-shelf solution, it would help to specify that in the question (and let someone else ask the DIY version of the question, or ask it yourself next time when you do a similar project &quot;off the clock&quot;).  I don't mind seeing both types of answers (and I think this sounds like a cool project, if not something I'll likely ever try) but I suspect from the comments I've seen that you're only going to accept an answer that links to an off-the-shelf solution." CreationDate="2011-03-01T05:11:01.530" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13240" PostId="9290" Text="@Fake I respect that: it's difficult, without being in the business, to penetrate the marketing gloss.  But are you saying the DIGIC processor does *not* include the ADC?  Or are you just implying that all ADCs are essentially the same so that any improvements in DIGIC IV or DIGIC III must entirely be in post-processing?" CreationDate="2011-03-01T05:56:36.833" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13241" PostId="9328" Score="1" Text="And of course IR triggers are usually programmed to a specific pattern, exactly to prevent a single remote from triggering multiple cameras at the same time.&#xA;You'd have to reprogram the receivers to all except the same signal somehow." CreationDate="2011-03-01T07:06:22.383" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13242" PostId="9330" Text="Looks like a nifty little piece of kit.&#xA;Only thing I miss at BH is separate receivers, looks like you have to buy transmitter+receiver kits for every camera, so he'd end up with 9 more transmitters than he needs." CreationDate="2011-03-01T07:11:26.703" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13243" PostId="9331" Text="Along the same lines, [this video/article](http://www.profoto-usa.com/news/press/kelly-kline.asp) was linked to from [Strobist](http://strobist.blogspot.com)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T07:13:20.473" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13244" PostId="9303" Score="1" Text="@labnut: I did answer the question: always use the best you can get, to prevent glare etc. I just put it into context..." CreationDate="2011-03-01T07:18:05.607" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13245" PostId="9326" Score="2" Text="_10 5D mkIIs?_ I'm not jealous.  No sireee..." CreationDate="2011-03-01T09:43:44.170" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13246" PostId="5945" Text="Love my FD lenses ... can't use 'em ... Grrrrrr   &gt;:-(" CreationDate="2011-03-01T09:52:55.193" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13247" PostId="9339" Text="It might help if you mentioned what country you live in unless you're planning on sending the camera abroad. " CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:18:36.677" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13248" PostId="9344" Text="extension tubes sounds great. i don't know if they differ to bellows? Can you please post links for extension tubes which manages electrical conducts? for Canon rebel?" CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:23:48.890" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13249" PostId="9343" Text="i dont know how you're going to handle distortions caused by the magnifying glass? unless you buy an expensive magnifying glass i dont think the results will look good." CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:25:27.733" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13250" PostId="9326" Text="[Bullet time!](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KtghA0rkDY) I also found this Instructables article: [How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix DIY Bullet Time](http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Enter-the-Ghetto-Matrix-DIY-Bullet-Time/) :-D" CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:30:41.990" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="13251" PostId="9335" Text="Bear in mind that turning off the continous autofocus will mean that if your subject moves they will likely become out of focus. You're going to have to be pretty nifty with manual to avoid a lot of back and forth blurring." CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:33:55.930" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="13252" PostId="9345" Text="You could also try to use a reversal adapter with the shrink ray to enlarge the target." CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:40:54.217" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="13253" PostId="9345" Text="+1 for teh funneh" CreationDate="2011-03-01T10:41:57.773" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="13254" PostId="9344" Text="The Canon tubes obviously allow communication with the lens, the cheaper Kenko alternative do too, see : http://www.amazon.com/Kenko-Auto-Extension-Canon-Mount/dp/B000U8Y88M" CreationDate="2011-03-01T11:01:14.940" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13255" PostId="9344" Score="1" Text="I think you mixed up advantages and disadvantages in the last section." CreationDate="2011-03-01T11:20:27.497" UserId="225" />
  <row Id="13256" PostId="9344" Text="@Tim thanks, I've fixed it now" CreationDate="2011-03-01T11:47:58.753" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13257" PostId="9335" Score="1" Text="Turning on autofocus on the D3100 produces pretty much unusable video because of the lens sound." CreationDate="2011-03-01T12:27:06.723" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13258" PostId="9309" Text="I cant find this feature in my T2i/550D... any help?" CreationDate="2011-03-01T12:48:32.103" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13259" PostId="9348" Text="Those are fine cameras. But this isn't really a great question for this site, since the answer is both very specific to you and very specific to this moment in time. For that reason, I'm voting to close the question. That said, @jetxee's specific advice is pretty much spot-on." CreationDate="2011-03-01T13:56:49.913" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13260" PostId="9328" Score="3" Text="@jwenting - That information is false. How do you think we can buy a camera and remote separately and they simply work? My Pentax Remote-Control F worked with all 5 Pentax DSLRs I have owned. I did not need to reprogram it or the camera, each time I upgraded the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-01T14:16:43.770" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13261" PostId="9349" Score="4" Text="Lens, lens, lens... +1 !" CreationDate="2011-03-01T14:21:33.283" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="13262" PostId="9349" Score="1" Text="+1 for looking at available lenses." CreationDate="2011-03-01T14:22:21.687" UserId="3410" />
  <row Id="13263" PostId="9348" Score="1" Text="As asked, this question cannot be answered. All modern DSLRs are quite good. The only way you can choose between them is to ask for something that satisfies specific needs." CreationDate="2011-03-01T14:23:49.783" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13264" PostId="9335" Text="Even with an external microphone or sound off, it is still a pain to use since the video AF is so slow it always lags behind a moving subject, even one that does not move so fast. In AF-S mode you can refocus at any time too, so the AF-C option is the least useful." CreationDate="2011-03-01T14:28:18.173" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13265" PostId="9344" Text="Close up adapters: 6 - Cut-and-paste error." CreationDate="2011-03-01T14:31:46.860" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13266" PostId="9351" Text="FWIW, low-end bodies from other brands are also compatible with the brand's entire range of lenses and flashes. That kind of smacks of FUD." CreationDate="2011-03-01T15:27:37.900" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13267" PostId="9351" Text="@mattdm Perhaps but in some others' cases, the range doesn't really compare to Canon and Nikon's decades of lenses. (in the scope of consumer/enthusiast price ranges)." CreationDate="2011-03-01T15:31:37.587" UserId="4103" />
  <row Id="13268" PostId="9351" Text="@Oli — depends what you're looking for. It's indisputable that the top two brands have more lens options. It's the compatibility implication I'm looking askance at." CreationDate="2011-03-01T15:33:48.237" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13269" PostId="3419" Score="4" Text="Are you talking about small differences in the raw filesizes, or different raw image dimensions? " CreationDate="2011-03-01T15:44:43.727" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13274" PostId="9351" Text="@Oli: If anything Nikon and Canon are the two *worst* in this regard. With Canon, EF-S lenses will not work on full-frame bodies. With Nikon, you pretty much need expert guidance to figure out what old lenses will work to what degree on what bodies. By contrast, all Sony bodies work with all A-mount lenses and all Pentax bodies work with all K-mount lenses. Both have lenses going back for decades as well, and both offer anti-shake for all those lenses too." CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:18:31.650" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13276" PostId="9270" Text="how can i do this? " CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:35:16.043" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="13277" PostId="9294" Text="They only work with line of sight. To get more freedom use radio based units." CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:38:53.593" UserId="2200" />
  <row Id="13279" PostId="9359" Text="@ahockley Do u think i need the flash sb700 because i am stuck with its settings whenever i used it for portrait it will end up with over exposure pics .. is there any solution. " CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:46:41.580" UserId="3868" />
  <row Id="13280" PostId="9360" Text="yup its 50mm .. you mean i should use 50mm for head shots ? and 24-70 should always be used in 70mm right ? " CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:52:05.677" UserId="3868" />
  <row Id="13281" PostId="9356" Score="2" Text="There's nothing wrong with Sony's lenses -- many of them out-resolve the equivalent Canon/Nikon lenses. The old Rokkor designs (with updated coatings and adapted for autofocus) tend to be of very high quality, and much of the line now is Zeiss. (I'll let other speak to Pentax quality.) You're right about the extreme telephotos -- but if you want a truly hand-holdable 500mm lens, something you can throw into your camera bag just in case, Sony's the only game in town. And if bokeh's your game, you're really missing out if you haven't tried the 135 SFT." CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:54:02.380" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13282" PostId="9360" Text="The 50 might be useful if you want to go wide open, but yes, the 24-70 in the 50-70mm range should give very good results." CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:55:56.373" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13283" PostId="9341" Text="As for your #3 in reverse lens - the complete loss of control is only true for lenses w/o an aperture ring (Canon EF lenses, for example)." CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:20:40.550" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13284" PostId="9363" Score="4" Text="+1 listing the specific differences." CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:25:02.477" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13285" PostId="9360" Text="what does wide open mean ?" CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:26:47.053" UserId="3868" />
  <row Id="13286" PostId="9363" Text="Canon also has a 14mm rectiliner lens: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_14mm_f_2_8l_ii_usm" CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:58:14.560" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13287" PostId="9363" Text="@ahockley - Thanks, I meant zoom and I was missing a few... I made the research a while ago and now I'm stuck with 2 lineups ;) One day, I'll save for a third and hire a porter!" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:08:02.743" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13288" PostId="9365" Score="3" Text="Good points about pricing. I do find that Sony and Pentax have a two-or-three grade system (good, better, best) while Canon seems to have at least 6 levels of price/quality compromises. Other brands are somewhere in between." CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:11:07.920" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13289" PostId="9309" Score="1" Text="You can't find the feature because Canon has chosen not to include that functionality with the low-end cameras in their product line. Short of an upgrade to a better camera, I can't think of anything else you can do. Sorry..." CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:18:05.527" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13290" PostId="9326" Text="@AJ: That's not to say that I *own* 10 5DmkIIs. But I do think it's gonna be a pretty epic setup. I'll post pictures at some point, I'm sure. :-)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:33:16.573" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13291" PostId="9360" Text="It means using the maximum aperture, in this case f/1.8" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:40:56.397" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13292" PostId="9342" Text="@Matt. thx for info. How does the exposure metering fare? does metering do OK in various lighting conditions (cloudy vs full sun, etc)?" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:55:12.967" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="13293" PostId="9363" Score="4" Text="+1  This nice summary could save people a *lot* of research at the outset." CreationDate="2011-03-01T19:07:39.497" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13294" PostId="9342" Text="Exposure metering is unreliable as the metering sensor is designed for visible light. I usually set the exposure compensation to plus one stop and adjust it per image after looking at the histogram. Infrared shooting is a little trial and error, I'm afraid." CreationDate="2011-03-01T19:23:59.050" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13296" PostId="9368" Text="That looks pretty solid, despite what Canon says glibly about simply not including all the pixels. So I'm deleting my answer." CreationDate="2011-03-01T20:17:33.013" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13297" PostId="9363" Score="4" Text="+1 The list, though, only touches on the primary providers. Some brand gaps will get covered by secondary options from companies like Sigma (such as going beyond 300mm on the Pentax mount)." CreationDate="2011-03-01T20:37:25.813" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13298" PostId="9239" Score="3" Text="+1 It's always nice to see someone pay attention to history and scholarship in any field.  We can better appreciate where we are when we know something of the path people followed to get here.  The presence of many older documents on the internet ought to promote such research, but unfortunately it's still rare." CreationDate="2011-03-01T21:05:22.980" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13299" PostId="9345" Text="Best answer on SE. " CreationDate="2011-03-01T21:39:49.127" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="13300" PostId="9363" Text="Pretty nice list, but if I read that, there is not much reason not to go with Canon ?!" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:33:13.343" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="13301" PostId="9363" Score="1" Text="@Philip - Yes, Canon covers a lot of ground. But it should not be about what you CAN do but about what you WANT to do. Weight is a serious concern for many and one reason people go with Pentax. Also, the stabilization issue is big. There are only 3 stabilized lenses apertures wider than F/2.8, if you shoot in extremely low light and you can shoot at F/1.4 with stabilization with Pentax and Sony (also Olympus and Panasonic with third-party lenses)." CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:52:39.360" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13302" PostId="9358" Score="1" Text="not to spoil the party, but I hope you're not charging for this photoshoot :)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:53:39.373" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="13303" PostId="8710" Text="It's cropped, fairly heavy." CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:03:18.243" UserId="3852" />
  <row Id="13304" PostId="9360" Text="@Praneel: With a lens, &quot;wide open&quot; means &quot;at maximum aperture&quot;. In this case, if you want any aperture larger than f/2.8 (i.e., the maximum on the 24-70) the 50mm is your obvious alternative." CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:07:16.743" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13305" PostId="9370" Text="Quite true -- the only way this is going to happen is if Bibble Labs implements it." CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:20:20.273" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13306" PostId="9335" Text="is it alright to ask questions that could blatantly been answered by reading the manual? (or pressing the &quot;?&quot; button near the options and reading the captions on the menu)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:23:16.643" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13307" PostId="1841" Text="I thought about this, recently. lol, very interesting project! it could actually launch if the product could attract old camera enthusiasts! i'd buy something like that :)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:25:41.993" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13308" PostId="9327" Text="+1 for pocket wizards. additionally, interesting youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AuyVz89AXg [USA today - 30fps Canon EOS-1D Mark III] - are you going to do bullet time shots? that's pretty awesome :)" CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:47:43.667" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13309" PostId="9349" Text="me too: +1 for lens, lens, lens!" CreationDate="2011-03-01T23:52:25.413" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13310" PostId="1841" Text="@JoséNunoFerreira: The *idea's* nice, but I think you'd need more than a tiny (2.85x crop factor), 1.3 megapixel sensor to sell very many." CreationDate="2011-03-02T00:02:26.553" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13311" PostId="9363" Text="I am with John, I would like to see sigma added to this list. Good job so far though. " CreationDate="2011-03-02T00:53:30.393" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="13312" PostId="1841" Text="@Jerry Coffin yeah, but the ideal idea (:P) would be 35mm sized sensor, with state of the art spec, or less for a smaller price! but the article on dpreview has several drawbacks that kinda kill it, the sensor would be very exposed when recharging and downloading photos; maybe some years from now, with better tech (and dirt cheap big sensors). When film chemicals become collectors items, this might make sense again :)" CreationDate="2011-03-02T01:09:04.860" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13313" PostId="9290" Score="1" Text="The latter. An ADC has basically one main characteristic - It's noise (there are others, linearity, sample-rate,  etc... but they effect picture quality much less), but there is really no noise-processing done in the ADC.  There are other techniques, like double-correlated sampling, but those are done in processing *after* the ADC.." CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:10:08.293" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13314" PostId="9290" Text="At this point, you can buy a competitive 14 or 16 bit ADC from many companies - National Semiconductor, Analog Devices, TI, Linear Technologies, etc... They're all good enough they they're pretty much genericised. (There are many implementation details, sample rate, etc... but within a specification range, they're pretty similar)" CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:13:10.273" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13315" PostId="9290" Score="1" Text="Basically, an ADC does one thing. It converts an analog voltage into a digital number. There are many ways to do this, but there really no noise reduction in the actual process. You may work to reduce the noise on the analog voltage, using analog filters, or post-process the digital output, but the actual conversion is pretty much a single-step operation" CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:16:14.297" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13316" PostId="9290" Text="Besides, the other noise sources in a camera system pretty much dominate the ADC noise." CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:16:59.177" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13317" PostId="1841" Text="@JoséNunoFerreira: Yes -- I think it would be quite a bit more feasible if you restricted it to the relatively high-end cameras with removable backs, and made it a complete replacement back so after you installed it, it would just stay there forever (or at least until you replaced it)." CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:47:47.753" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13319" PostId="9364" Text="Changing the aperture of the straight lens should not have any affect on the photo other than producing vignetting, technically. So, if I use faster aperture on the first lens and smaller in the reversed, that should eliminate most of the vignetting, am I right? &#xA;I also think the straight lens should be a zoom lens if you need better framing and the reversed lens should be as lightweight as possible, the nifty fifty will do I guess?&#xA;Now the question comes, why would I want to use two lenses instead of one? Does Autofocus work in this setup?" CreationDate="2011-03-02T03:39:22.503" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13320" PostId="9363" Text="Honestly, adding Sigma is a scary thought because they have tons of lenses but not all exist for each mount, some were even announced to exit but never produced. Tamron has fewer lenses but have even more variance between coverage of mounts (Ex: 17 Tamron for Canon vs 8 Tamron for Pentax). Tokina supplies almost exclusively lenses for Canon and Nikon (A few for Sony and they have a non-compete agreement with Pentax)." CreationDate="2011-03-02T03:44:50.480" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13321" PostId="9363" Score="1" Text="Feel free to explore the matrix of lenses here: http://www.neocamera.com/list_lenses.php?show=none - Just select mount and brand combination. You can also select the smallest crop-factor when applicable, so 'Full-Frame' gives you only full-frame lenses and APS-C gives you both APS-C and full-frame ones." CreationDate="2011-03-02T03:48:15.237" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13322" PostId="9364" Text="Well, the above is based on some experimentation I did with this technique. Unfortunately, at the time, I did not keep a record of all the settings and the outcomes to get some scientific conclusions. However, I used EF70-200/2.8 with EF50/1.4 reversed (a step-down adapter ring was required) , assuming that using good optics will get me better results than the reversed EFs18-55. In all of the images, the vignetting is dominant. IIRC, vignetting is not affected by aperture, so using faster/slower combination should not matter. As for AF, the setup was pretty dark for even trying AF." CreationDate="2011-03-02T06:19:21.830" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13323" PostId="9371" Score="1" Text="looks nice, didn't hear of that before" CreationDate="2011-03-02T07:27:50.187" UserId="3789" />
  <row Id="13324" PostId="9363" Text="Actually, I believe Pentax and Sony are tied unless you count (for example) a silver and black version of the same lens separately. It looks to me like the Pentax line has more near-duplicates as well (e.g., the difference between the 50/1.4 and the 55/1.4 is unlikely to mean much)." CreationDate="2011-03-02T07:33:00.447" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13325" PostId="9358" Text="yes i am not charging anything for the shoot :(" CreationDate="2011-03-02T08:07:18.843" UserId="3868" />
  <row Id="13326" PostId="9372" Text="you want me to use autofocus or manual focus ?" CreationDate="2011-03-02T08:10:34.660" UserId="3868" />
  <row Id="13327" PostId="9250" Text="@Matt Grum - Unless that's 5mp interpolated" CreationDate="2011-03-02T08:24:34.060" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13328" PostId="8684" Text="Wish I could accept all the answers." CreationDate="2011-03-02T08:37:17.053" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13329" PostId="9335" Text="This is a perfectly valid question. It is answerable, it's [on topic](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) (&quot;using photographic equipment&quot;, and [several other questions about the video feature](http://photo.stackexchange.com/search?q=video) of SLRs have been deemed on-topic.), and it's not subjective or argumentative. Sure, the answer might be found in the user manual, but there's no reason we can't repeat the answer here." CreationDate="2011-03-02T08:51:56.807" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13330" PostId="9374" Text="Thanks for that account! What lenses do you shoot with? It seems like after going to all that effort it would be awesome to have a lens optimised for IR as well, but the only ones I've heard Zeiss ZF-IR series which doesn't seem to have a release date." CreationDate="2011-03-02T09:29:22.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13331" PostId="9363" Text="Awesome list!  How do you know all this stuff?!  ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-02T10:06:16.283" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13332" PostId="9357" Score="1" Text="To be honest, I think you've got the right answer - there's no substitute for holding something in your hands and seeing if it feels right." CreationDate="2011-03-02T10:07:33.550" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13333" PostId="9372" Text="@Praneel - I use autofocus, as I like to move around and it's quicker." CreationDate="2011-03-02T11:41:37.493" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13334" PostId="9372" Text="Thanks for the info and what about tripod ?? " CreationDate="2011-03-02T12:24:49.777" UserId="3868" />
  <row Id="13336" PostId="9363" Score="2" Text="@Jerry - Tied for what? Pentax has a few more lenses, but a shorter range of focal-lengths (10-300 vs 11-500). On the other hand, they have a considerable number of weather-sealed lenses (Sony has zero). More than half of Sony's lenses are full-frame, which means heavy for a cropped-sensor camera ;) BTW, 55mm F1.4 is weather-sealed and super-sonic, while the 50mm F1/4 is neither. I sold the 50mm to fund half of the 55mm, so I know." CreationDate="2011-03-02T13:44:21.813" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13337" PostId="9340" Text="Are you sure that the 430EX II can be triggered by the 40D's pop-up flash? I thought it needed a line-of-sight infra-red signal from a 580EX or similar." CreationDate="2011-03-02T14:30:29.177" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="13338" PostId="9383" Text="Be aware that with current technology, a *cheap* SSD may in fact make things worse. Especially as it ages." CreationDate="2011-03-02T14:58:52.930" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13339" PostId="9381" Score="1" Text="Is 8GB the maximum for that particular model? More RAM _always_ helps." CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:01:05.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13340" PostId="9363" Text="@Itai: Tied in number. Once you eliminate cosmetic differences, Pentax has 26 lenses -- which is *exactly* the same number as Sony currently lists. Yes, after that there are substantial differences in the lineups." CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:06:41.663" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13342" PostId="9363" Text="@Jerry - Sorry to contradict again, but I had to double-checked. I understand there may be differences in lineup where you live, it does happen. For lack of a global list, I went to the  Canon USA. It lists 13: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup . There happens to be 13 Canon, 8 Nikon and 1 Panasonic, so the difference is not negligible. You can see them all together here (see the brand breakdown on the left under Refine Results): http://www.neocamera.com/search_lens.php?stabilization=1&amp;prime=1&amp;by=feature" CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:45:12.287" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13343" PostId="9363" Text="@AJ Finch - Thanks! I happen to be a member of the press so I get all the press releases and samples. I also teach photography at a photo store here in Montreal, which means that I get to play with a lot of toys ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:49:33.703" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13344" PostId="9363" Text="@Itai: Contradicting me is fine when I make a stupid mistake -- which is exactly what happened in this case." CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:51:45.993" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13345" PostId="9367" Text="@drewbenn: if you're going to get into EVIL cameras (rather than actual SLRs) it's probably also worth mentioning that Sony's NEX cameras are pretty much the same as micro-four thirds in terms of short flange distance and being able to accept most lenses. NEX also uses a larger (APS-C) sensor." CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:56:48.420" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13346" PostId="9383" Score="1" Text="Also, I'm on an iMac so it's just not economic to install an SSD. I'm very aware of the hard drive being the bottleneck on modern PCs." CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:05:50.187" UserId="3882" />
  <row Id="13347" PostId="9381" Score="2" Text="16GB is I think" CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:06:11.840" UserId="3882" />
  <row Id="13348" PostId="8859" Text="It has presets for different film all loaded up." CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:22:36.657" UserId="3906" />
  <row Id="13349" PostId="9385" Score="1" Text="Note that other Adobe products (like Photoshop CS4 onward) use this same terminology." CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:55:57.070" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13350" PostId="9385" Score="1" Text="And, I don't actually know the exact answer, but this blog post seems to: http://www.photo-mark.com/notes/2009/jan/19/analyzing-photoshop-vibrance-and-saturation/" CreationDate="2011-03-02T16:56:43.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13351" PostId="9376" Score="2" Text="You should consider marking one of the questions as answered" CreationDate="2011-03-02T17:07:10.383" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="13352" PostId="9358" Score="1" Text="I'm not really digging roman m's comment. Everyone has to start somewhere. Even if it was a paid photoshoot more power to Praneel." CreationDate="2011-03-02T17:13:05.717" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="13353" PostId="9281" Text="+1 for the hard suitcase suggestion!" CreationDate="2011-03-02T17:15:23.297" UserId="4082" />
  <row Id="13355" PostId="9379" Text="Picks/flags (specifically asked about) are *not* exported - only standard XMP metadata." CreationDate="2011-03-02T17:51:56.393" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13356" PostId="1573" Text="As an example of their strange weighting system consider the Canon 600D. It has a score of 189, making it the second ranked camera. But 100 of the 189 points are awarded for popularity and the remaining 89 points are for all other features combined. This is because popularity is given by far the highest weighting. Now, do you really want to choose the most popular camera(according to Snapsort), or do you want to choose the camera best suited to your basket of needs?" CreationDate="2011-03-02T18:13:59.167" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13357" PostId="9374" Text="@fake name: you, sir, are either brave or insane. did you do this on your kitchen table? or do you have a cleanroom in your basement?" CreationDate="2011-03-02T18:38:13.803" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="13358" PostId="9388" Score="6" Text="This is interesting, and clearly _relates_ to photography, but generally this site is more on the taking pictures and on _using_ tools to process them, and not so heavy on the math side. It's very possible that one of our more math-heavy users will show up with a good answer, but you might do better simply over on Stack Overflow, where they've got thousands of questions on image processing. http://stackoverflow.com/questions/tagged/image-processing" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:20:27.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13359" PostId="9388" Text="That said, you can find some interesting materials which might help by searching google for &quot;motion blur fourier&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:28:17.033" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13360" PostId="9381" Score="1" Text="In that case, go for it. The increased RAM will both benefit active usage and provide more caching for disk." CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:31:41.803" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13361" PostId="9376" Score="2" Text="And making this a comment, rather than an answer itself." CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:32:18.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13362" PostId="9380" Text="That's a good hint. I'll try that!" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:38:18.143" UserId="3377" />
  <row Id="13363" PostId="9357" Score="1" Text="One thing to keep in mind, though, is that usability over a long time (such as the time for which one might own a camera!) are different from first-impressions of ergonomics. While there may be such a thing as love as first sight, it's also true that handing characteristics which seem awful (or great) initially may turn out to be no big deal after a month of use, and there may be wonderful little touches that improve your everyday use which you don't discover until later." CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:38:45.137" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13364" PostId="9374" Text="can you recommend any links on the AF adjustment process?" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:39:54.810" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="13365" PostId="9370" Score="1" Text="Lightroom 2 at least uses an SQLite data base which you can scrape for the development settings and transfer them to Bibble. Assuming that Bibble has either an API or another way of setting development settings. But a quick and dirty hack-job of such a thing might be possible in a weekend of coding." CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:04:09.033" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="13366" PostId="9380" Score="1" Text="Sorry, but that's simply wrong. XMP files don't store Lightroom edits, only standard EXIF data..." CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:13:07.013" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13367" PostId="1077" Score="2" Text="@danio: Most people come to the stackexchange sites via google. I am sure this question will soon also be ranked up high. I doubt people will then find your comment helpful. " CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:20:56.347" UserId="4119" />
  <row Id="13368" PostId="9391" Score="9" Text="You should really tell us more info. What are you interested in shooting? Why do you want a new lens? Just remember, more info means better answers." CreationDate="2011-03-02T22:57:52.540" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="13369" PostId="9391" Score="3" Text="Do you have a lens right now that you're comparing to?  In other words, if you've got an 18-55 kit lens and you just want higher quality, the 1-40 is an excellent choice, but if you're trying to expand your focal range in some way, we need more info." CreationDate="2011-03-02T23:07:13.523" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="13370" PostId="9392" Score="3" Text="I'll second this, and add that when vacationing you'll probably want to be carrying as little gear as you can get away with. The fisheye -- or the near-equivalent rectilinear 14mm lens -- is a one-trick pony, great for architectural pictures when you can't step too far back (okay, *two* tricks, since vast panoramas are also possible), but approaching uselessness otherwise. The 17-40 covers a much larger set of possibilities. Extreme wide angle shots rarely require shallow DoF, so the cheap kit lens can cover anything wider than 17mm adequately without the weight penalty." CreationDate="2011-03-02T23:17:02.687" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13371" PostId="9386" Score="1" Text="I've always wondered this but never actually bothered to look it up. Thanks Andres for asking the question and thanks Matt for the answer" CreationDate="2011-03-02T23:37:37.287" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="13372" PostId="9390" Text="Both blurs will have lack of sharpness in only one direction. However, while camera shake will have the uniform spread of the effect, motion blur will have only parts of the image out-of-sharpness (the moving subject). I don't see how the 2nd derivative comes to help here." CreationDate="2011-03-03T00:02:13.587" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13373" PostId="9379" Text="@LC1983: -1 Sorry, this is simply wrong. Processing steps in Lightroom are not stored in XMP files, or anywhere else exportable for that matter... In fact there is currently no way to export processing data via ANY method in Lightroom, only the *results* of processing can be exported in any way." CreationDate="2011-03-03T00:29:09.187" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13375" PostId="9396" Score="1" Text="As the 17-40 is an L lens, the only one of the three EF-S lenses you mention that would get close in quality is the 17-55, and it's actually a few hundred dollars *more* than the 17-40" CreationDate="2011-03-03T01:36:11.210" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13376" PostId="9396" Score="1" Text="But we don't know that the OP even *cares* about image quality (or were you referring to build quality? Do we think the OP cares more about that?).  Until we hear more, this answer is as valid as any other answer that tries to guess what is really being asked." CreationDate="2011-03-03T01:51:13.567" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13377" PostId="9326" Text="@koiyu: Fun link... I have a hard time thinking of a setup which costs between $5000 and $8000 to make as 'ghetto' though. :-)" CreationDate="2011-03-03T01:53:10.473" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13378" PostId="9389" Text="This answer is opposite to @Matt Grum's answer. I wonder which is right? I guess a quick test with the software will tell the answer. I don't have the software, though..." CreationDate="2011-03-03T02:13:05.420" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13379" PostId="9386" Text="Look at my comment for @Jon.Griffen's answer." CreationDate="2011-03-03T02:13:44.907" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13380" PostId="9390" Text="BTW, the motion direction need not be horizontal or vertical, so it is not sufficient to just compare the gradient at the X and Y directions. One really needs to consider the full vector gradient. I think, where a motion induced blur exists, you will get a grad vector with a noticeable magnitude (as the image changes more rapidly perpendicular to the motion direction and very slowly in the motion direction). OTOH, if no motion induced blur is present, then the rate of change is equal in all direction, and hence the magnitude of the grad vector is smaller. (???!!?!??  so many years ago...)" CreationDate="2011-03-03T02:27:17.473" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13381" PostId="9389" Text="So, according to the analysis provided in @mattdm's link, I think @Matt Grum's description if more accurate." CreationDate="2011-03-03T02:44:11.833" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13382" PostId="9357" Score="1" Text="@mattdm That might be true if it were his first SLR. I discovered a lot of nice things on my D90 since I bought it, but the decisive basics like first and foremost the body-handling, then the bright pentaprism-viewfinder, on-top-lcd and fast-access wheels stay more important than the good and bad I found out later. (Took me some weeks to finally decide.)" CreationDate="2011-03-03T03:14:51.573" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="13383" PostId="9357" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas — I'm assuming that this will be read by a lot more people than the specific original questioner. And, arguably, those big, basic things you mention don't need _handling_ to discover — you can get a good sense of that level of things simply by reading dpreview (or anywhere else that does that style of review). I'm thinking about, for example, Canon's weird big flat back wheel as opposed to the way Nikon and Pentax do it; for me, that's always been really really awkward — but I bet if someone gave me a 5D MkII I'd get used to it in a month or less." CreationDate="2011-03-03T03:34:14.947" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13384" PostId="9381" Score="1" Text="This seems like it might get better answers on superuser." CreationDate="2011-03-03T03:57:46.890" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="13385" PostId="9391" Score="1" Text="Best walkaround lens within budget so far for 1.6X crop body is Canon EF-S 15-85mm in my opinion. Gives you quality wideangle (15mm) and portrait-type-tele-end (85mm) as well." CreationDate="2011-03-03T04:08:17.833" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13386" PostId="9381" Text="Just a random thought: Aperture is a pro level app and will be much more feature-packed and powerful. So don't expect it to be as fast as your iPhoto." CreationDate="2011-03-03T04:49:05.803" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="13387" PostId="9391" Score="1" Text="@ben Welcome to photo.stackexchange!  I hope you aren't overwhelmed by the questions, but we *do* need a little more info in order to properly help you :)" CreationDate="2011-03-03T05:18:46.383" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13388" PostId="9399" Score="7" Text="Are you looking for a solution for just this trip, or that you will use for several years? Are you going to be in and out of a vehicle (and will you be driving or a passenger) a lot on this trip, or will it be mostly long hikes (is this solution in addition to a backpack? a daypack? does it need to hold water bottles? granola bars? lunch?)? Do you want something that will breeze through a TSA checkpoint? Will you be in a potentially-high-crime environment? Are you fashion-conscious? Do you want to look like a photographer, or not look like one?" CreationDate="2011-03-03T07:07:45.237" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13389" PostId="9389" Text="We agree on saturation. for vibrance, @mattdm's analytical link is interesting, I was going off my visual impression of what was happening. Taking a look at how the colors of a fairly colorful photo change as I adjust vibrance this remains my impression. Looking at @mattdm's link, the graph of saturation in:out with vibrance to max, it looks like it is not uniform by color, which may mean Adobe is playing some smart tricks based on human perception. I think the other key is that vibrance has a limit to how far it will push a color, which prevents over saturating a single color. very neat." CreationDate="2011-03-03T07:47:46.597" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="13390" PostId="9396" Text="@ahockley that's not true, the 15-85 is considered very high quality and is cheaper than the 17-40. " CreationDate="2011-03-03T08:54:07.880" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="13391" PostId="9403" Text="+1 for the algorithm and the example." CreationDate="2011-03-03T09:08:12.663" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13392" PostId="9374" Text="I use a  AF Zoom-Nikkor 35-70 mm f/3.3-4.5, which seems to perform pretty well in IR." CreationDate="2011-03-03T10:38:33.683" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13393" PostId="9374" Text="As for the conversion, I work at a university, so I was able to exploit a laminar-flow dust hood for the actual process. However, with some care, I don't see why you couldn't do a conversion at home." CreationDate="2011-03-03T10:39:44.930" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13394" PostId="9374" Text="I don't have any information about the AF adjustment process, pretty much because I was making it up as I go along. I understood how the AF sensor mounted in the camera, and I understood how the AF adjust screws move the AF sensor, and I pretty much just extrapolated. I did a lot of research beforehand, and was able to find no real information." CreationDate="2011-03-03T10:41:21.637" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13395" PostId="9374" Text="Pictures of the conversion process are here: http://www.imaginaryindustries.com/Gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2246" CreationDate="2011-03-03T10:42:32.963" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="13396" PostId="9404" Score="3" Text="But *why* it is a great bag?" CreationDate="2011-03-03T11:27:10.013" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="13397" PostId="9398" Text="&quot;Vibrance&quot; is just a word Adobe chose, it doesn't have a specific meaning in this context, like saturation does. " CreationDate="2011-03-03T11:44:49.070" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13399" PostId="9398" Text="@Matt Grum -- obviously. And Adobe's use doesn't really match the plain-English, which is why it's hard to Google for an answer." CreationDate="2011-03-03T12:20:13.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13400" PostId="9383" Text="@cam8001 Why is it not economic on an iMac? In case you're referring to TRIM: It's coming with Lion." CreationDate="2011-03-03T12:31:08.767" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="13401" PostId="9383" Score="1" Text="@ewolf: Because to install it you need to completely dissassemble your mac. I just had a look at OWC's site, and it appears to be a lot cheaper to have this done than it used to be: http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/turnkey/iMac_2010_27/SSD , but I live in the UK so I'm not sure its an option for me." CreationDate="2011-03-03T12:34:29.280" UserId="3882" />
  <row Id="13402" PostId="5508" Text="I'm sorry, but I've had 2 UV filters save my lenses. Not a large high-impact fall, but a scrape against a wall, and my little lad plus a muddy stick were both foiled by UV filters. mind you, I'm only a novice photographer, so any potential impact of a UV filter is probably lost on me." CreationDate="2011-03-03T12:55:35.567" UserId="4126" />
  <row Id="13403" PostId="9407" Text="+1 for the 18-200. Nothing beats a trans-standard when you need versatility while being limited in transport. I personally add a 20mm pancake for the times I prefer to remain discrete, ultra-light or space restrained." CreationDate="2011-03-03T13:01:06.700" UserId="2025" />
  <row Id="13404" PostId="9259" Text="Someone voted down on this. Why?" CreationDate="2011-03-03T13:33:53.520" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13405" PostId="9383" Text="@cam8001 Okay, this probably depends on your experience in this area and what you feel comfortable with doing to your Mac ;-) If you don't want to do it yourself, I have to agree, it is not economic. But maybe you can ask a relative or friend for help?" CreationDate="2011-03-03T14:18:53.910" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="13406" PostId="528" Score="1" Text="@mattdm and @Nick: interesting points. Just bear in mind that not everybody here are native English speakers, so we may not be able to use all nuances in the language." CreationDate="2011-03-03T15:17:42.540" UserId="10" />
  <row Id="13407" PostId="5508" Text="@CJM They didn't save the lens, at most they could have saved you from scratches on the front element, which is typically hard and scratch resistant, unlike your filters. By all means use them if they make you feel safer, but I'm confident it's a false economy which is why I advise against it." CreationDate="2011-03-03T15:42:13.580" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13408" PostId="9379" Text="@Jay Lance Photography That is odd, I use this feature (albeit with DNG files) regularly, I do most my editing at home in Lightroom, but sometimes I use Photoshop CS5 on my Dad's Mac, when I do this I just copy the DNG to a USB stick and when I open it on my Dad's Mac it has all of the changes I've applied..." CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:13:20.113" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="13409" PostId="9380" Text="@Jay Lance Photography Have a read of: http://www.oreillynet.com/digitalmedia/blog/2007/04/xmp_sidecar_files_and_lightroo.html It states that XMP files DO store edits etc" CreationDate="2011-03-03T17:18:04.087" UserId="2833" />
  <row Id="13410" PostId="9379" Text="Of course you can open the *processed* version of your file, but you don't get the *processing data* (e.g. the steps that it took in Lightroom to get the picture to that point). As I said above, only the results of processing can be exported..." CreationDate="2011-03-03T18:06:48.213" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13411" PostId="9380" Text="No it doesn't state that. It states that the *Results* of edits are stored, not the edits themselves." CreationDate="2011-03-03T18:08:31.423" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13412" PostId="9405" Text="Thanks!  I'm going to use my existing backpack for travel (as there's another pouch for my laptop and miscellaneous other gear).  However, when I'm in the field, it takes forever to get my stuff into or out of the backpack, hence the non- prefix.  Nothing's truly off the table, yet, though." CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:10:48.733" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="13413" PostId="9399" Score="1" Text="All-around solution.  Will be driving a little, but planning to walk as much as possible (walk and not hike).  This will be my sole bag, and will have to hold at least a water bottle, too (or have a loop that I can tie a water bottle to).  Won't be going through security; the bag will be empty and in my suitcase when I'm flying.  I avoid high-crime areas as I only took a few weeks of Karate when I was 7.  Not into fashion when I'm on vacation.  I'd like to appear inconspicuous, but I realize that discretion and holding a ton of glass don't necessarily mesh.  Whew!  Good questions!" CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:15:10.913" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="13414" PostId="9400" Text="Less than $200 bucks.  Hopefully, right around $100.  Thanks for the tip!" CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:16:10.443" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="13415" PostId="9380" Text="@jay-lance-photography: uhh, it says &quot;the XMP sidecar files contain the metadata, keywords and adjustments made to an image&quot;. &quot;adjustments&quot;, &quot;edits&quot;... Same thing different word? The article might be wrong, I don't know, but it sure does seem to *say* that something is stored there that seems relevant to the questioner. If that's wrong, or unhelpful for some other reason, please explain more? (I don't currently have LR handy to investigate for myself. [XMP is XML](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extensible_Metadata_Platform) though, so it should be easy to see *exactly* what *is* stored.) " CreationDate="2011-03-03T20:40:07.377" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13418" PostId="9413" Text="Also, if there's a better term than &quot;lighting angle&quot;, please feel free to post it and/or edit into my question." CreationDate="2011-03-03T22:00:13.630" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13420" PostId="9413" Score="1" Text="I submitted an edit to change it to &quot;beam angle&quot; which is what the spread is more commonly called in lighting." CreationDate="2011-03-03T22:29:22.627" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13421" PostId="9380" Text="@jay-lance-photography: I think you're incorrect about whether Adobe stores &quot;edits&quot; (if we agree on what that term means, which I'm unsure of) in the XMP files.  It definitely does.  However, not in a way that Bibble understands, so... it's kind of a moot point.  More info in comments added to [your answer](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9369/migrate-from-lightroom-3-to-bibble-5/9370#9370)." CreationDate="2011-03-03T22:50:44.840" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13422" PostId="9370" Text="So, I was curious enough about this that I went and checked it out.  A few data points: (1) Lightroom *does* store (at least some) &quot;edits&quot; in XMP files (if so configured), e.g. fields like `&lt;crs:Exposure&gt;+0.75&lt;/crs:Exposure&gt;` inside an `xmlns:crs=&quot;http://ns.adobe.com/camera-raw-settings/1.0/` block; (2) bibble does, too, but (a) the filenames are different (appending `.xmp` instead of replacing the suffix (e.g. `.CR2`) with `.xmp`), and (b) the changes are different, e.g. `bopt:sat=&quot;51&quot;`, referencing  `xmlns:blay=&quot;http://www.bibblelabs.com/BibbleLayers/5.0/&quot;`, and in a different structure." CreationDate="2011-03-03T22:51:57.430" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13423" PostId="9370" Text="So, as far as I can tell, even if one renames/copies the XMP file to the name that Bibble expects, it won't heed (and will remove) the Adobe-added adjustments, replacing them with its own (starting from scratch).  So, I believe this answer to be basically correct, that it would require either Bibble to update their software to honor Adobe's way of representing things, or a 3rd party to right a conversion utility." CreationDate="2011-03-03T22:53:24.057" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13424" PostId="9370" Score="1" Text="'Edits' in Lightroom parlance are stacked record of what changes were made to the file and the order they were made. In Lightroom it is possible to move back and forth within the editing stack, thereby undoing any changes that you may have made. What is stored in the XMP are the *results* of edits made in Lightroom, not the edits themselves. " CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:24:02.517" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13425" PostId="9370" Text="It is a subtle point, but an important distinction because while it is true that a user could conceivably go in and 'unadjust' any adjustments made in another program... For some of the values that would be very easy, but for others (Temperature for example) it would be impossible to do without knowing what the *starting* value was... Information that is not stored in the XMP file. " CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:24:31.770" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13426" PostId="9370" Text="Additionally, Adobe does a pretty good job of recognizing and displaying these XMP values across their product lines, there is no such guarantee of 3rd-party products being capable of reading them in, and in fact many 3rd-party products simply erase values they don't recognize and start from scratch, as you've discovered." CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:24:49.507" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13427" PostId="9380" Text="See my comments in my answer above. You're misusing the term 'edits' (as used and stored in Lightroom). I'm not debating the fact that the *results* of the edits made in Lightroom are stored in the XMP file, only the record of the edits themselves. Further (as you yourself discovered) the ability to *use* the stored data becomes sketchy the minute someone moves outside of the 'Adobe Ecosystem.' Some products do OK with it, but others (like Bibble) simply erase it and start over..." CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:31:32.463" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13428" PostId="9379" Text="Additionally, the display of the processed version (with the data included in the XMP file) becomes sketchy at best when moving to a non-Adobe product. Some products attempt to use the information that Adobe writes into the XMP, but a good many others simply ignore it, or erase it and start from scratch... So the XMP file becomes a whole lot less useful when attempting to migrate to a non-Adobe product as only the standard set of EXIF data points is kept." CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:41:29.897" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13429" PostId="9370" Text="The implication being that in transferring to a 3rd-party product, the only data from the XMP file that is kept is the standard EXIF data as I have stated elsewhere." CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:43:36.010" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13430" PostId="9357" Text="@mattdm - I disagree. Nothing beats actual touching and viewing. There were other cameras with these features, I wasn't too sure about the usability of the top-LCD and the turn-wheels before I tried them, I really didn't know if I'd notice the difference in the viewfinder between 500D, K-x, (50D), (K7), (D90), E450, E620, Alpha380 ... with a comparable lens and so it goes on. Review sites are fine for tech-gasms and getting a first impression, but IMHO not for deciding finally (that is why - in Germany - people often invoke their right to return good bought on the net within 14 days)." CreationDate="2011-03-04T01:10:02.853" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="13431" PostId="9418" Text="+1 i am still laughing at the question title :D" CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:15:23.773" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13432" PostId="9419" Text="4. make them wear wigs (feel free to downvote me, but i had to say this :D)" CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:16:59.200" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13433" PostId="9357" Text="@Leonidas — We'll have to agree to disagree, then. My point isn't that hands-on experience isn't better than reviews, but rather that in order to really get a proper impression, you need to really _use_ a camera for a while. That's a flaw shared by both handling the camera in a store for a while _and_ the big tech-focused review sites. Ordering something and returning if it doesn't suit is a good approach. In the US, B&amp;H has a policy like that, although the number of exposures you can take before returning is limited without a restocking fee (fair enough)." CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:25:56.967" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13434" PostId="9340" Text="@Oddthinking: my bad, 40D can't trigger a flash with its built in flash" CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:38:36.290" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="13435" PostId="9419" Text="+1 and accepted, it's what I ended up actually figuring out for myself in the end!" CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:41:10.400" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13436" PostId="9418" Text="It's funny, but the bigger laugh was all of us thought his photo would be the easiest, it took far and away the most work!" CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:41:53.270" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13437" PostId="9357" Text="@mattdm German law also allows for a reduction of refund if used above trial-usage common in a shop." CreationDate="2011-03-04T03:31:56.140" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="13438" PostId="2506" Text="this is very interesting, didn't know that!" CreationDate="2011-03-04T03:35:38.837" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13439" PostId="9355" Score="1" Text="There is also the point about availability of the lens lineups &amp; platforms in general (accessories, the cameras themselves) across different platforms in many countries. In this regard, the big names like Canon, Nikon &amp; to an extent Sony are quite ubiquitous, while brands like Pentax &amp; Olympus may not be very easily available in some of the developing markets." CreationDate="2011-03-04T03:53:26.097" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="13440" PostId="9363" Text="Are we only talking about &quot;new&quot; lenses?  Because Olympus, Minolta, Pentax and Leica have made tilt-shift lenses too, as have others I'm sure.  Another thing: Panasonic does in-lens stabilization, not in-body." CreationDate="2011-03-04T04:07:13.977" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13441" PostId="9363" Text="@thomasrutter - Correct, your edit was accepted. We are talking about current in-production line up of lenses. There are of course compatible lenses out of production but it is not recommended to count on those due to limited availability." CreationDate="2011-03-04T04:22:25.693" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13442" PostId="9421" Score="3" Text="Look closely at the eyes: you can see the light box." CreationDate="2011-03-04T04:56:58.270" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13443" PostId="9422" Score="1" Text="Very narrow DOF: not just the ears, but the tip of the nose in all most all of them." CreationDate="2011-03-04T05:07:38.263" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13444" PostId="9419" Text="@John: Great minds, and all that... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-03-04T05:55:45.860" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13445" PostId="9424" Text="The photographer, Martin Schoeller, is featured in a [video on YouTube](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZTGXhWjAf4&amp;feature=player_embedded#at=124), where you can see him shooting with an 8x10." CreationDate="2011-03-04T06:29:28.677" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13446" PostId="9398" Text="I hadn't heard of the EG Vibrance script until you mentioned it here. After playing with it a bit, I'm surprised you don't find it subtle enough. At its default settings, it seems very subtle to me. It's also set up for easy fine-tuning through layer opacity." CreationDate="2011-03-04T06:35:33.440" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="13447" PostId="9424" Text="The 8x10 was a certainty just from looking at the images; the 210mm lens is a guess based on my own 8x10 shooting. Obama's image had me wondering about a 150, but the rest look very 210-ish." CreationDate="2011-03-04T06:50:03.027" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13448" PostId="9357" Text="Same here. When first choosing a camera I went to multiple stores, got brochures, handled bodies in my price range and slightly over it, and after several months of deliberation settled on Minolta (I'd have chosen Nikon but at the time they were outside my financial event horizon, this was 30+ years ago when the price difference between Nikon and most other brands was significant, they simply had no entry level lineup at all).&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-04T07:15:29.967" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13449" PostId="9357" Text="cntd. 15 years later when I decided on a serious technology upgrade, which would require replacing anything anyway, Minolta had serious QA problems and after a similar process I decided on Nikon instead (ergonomics and control layout weren't too different, making the transition easier).&#xA;&#xA;Lens lineups didn't play a major part (though they did exclude Olympus for which lenses here are just about impossible to get at all)." CreationDate="2011-03-04T07:17:21.060" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13450" PostId="9357" Text="&quot;That's a flaw shared by both handling the camera in a store for a while and the big tech-focused review sites. &quot;&#xA;&#xA;My dealer has let me borrow equipment for a few days on accasion for just that reason, but then I'm a big customer who they've come to know and trust to take care of equipment over more than a decade.&#xA;&#xA;For others, there's rentals to satisfy the trial and error phase.&#xA;&#xA;Buying something and then returning it a few days later &quot;because I don't like it&quot; is dishonest. Especially if you then go on (as many do) and buy the same thing online anyway for a bit less money." CreationDate="2011-03-04T07:19:31.853" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13451" PostId="9425" Text="The kit lens for the t1i should be able to get pretty darn close to that demonstrated DoF. If you're not able to get that it might be something else that's the problem. Maybe show us what you're shooting and the settings used and we can see where the problem is." CreationDate="2011-03-04T07:41:57.923" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13452" PostId="9424" Text="And note that there is no light from above in the vast majority of these images -- one can never extrapolate a single shoot to an artist's entire portfolio." CreationDate="2011-03-04T08:04:49.310" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13453" PostId="9425" Score="3" Text="Your problem isn't with your lens not being capable of taking the picture you want, your problem is with your basic understanding of how to use the lens you already have. In order to really understand how to make photographs such as that you need to understand how to use the manual mode of your camera, including basic photography concepts such as f-stop, shutter speed, ISO, and Depth of Field... Fortunately all of which can be learned about here on this site! (http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4157/manual-photography-cheat-sheet-where-can-i-find-one-or-what-should-be-on-it)" CreationDate="2011-03-04T08:08:31.270" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13454" PostId="9389" Text="@Jon.Griffen - from the follow-up question (http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9398/is-there-an-equivalent-to-adobes-vibrance-in-gimp) we learn that the transform is not done per primary color, but rather on the Saturation component in the HSV space. This means that it actually IS being done uniformly across colors. The vibrance has no limit in the sense that you mean (if I get you correctly). The only limit is the point in which the image becomes non-realistic due to over-saturating the colors." CreationDate="2011-03-04T08:52:40.457" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13455" PostId="9427" Score="2" Text="Not at all necessary -- 8x10 chromes will have this sharpness and resolution without any playing around in post (softening is part of the normal process, in fact). It's easy to think &quot;sharpening&quot; when you're used to digital, but there's no antialiasing filter to overcome with film and if you've never worked with large format and a reasonably modern lens, you really can't appreciate the amount of contrast and detail available." CreationDate="2011-03-04T09:06:25.967" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13456" PostId="9421" Text="@tomm89, Thank you for the link.  What amazing images!  They make me want to rush out and buy a large-format camera!  (must sell house first).  " CreationDate="2011-03-04T10:19:10.290" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13457" PostId="9427" Score="1" Text="Not necessary, but you can get the same look (at least when downsized to web resolution) without an expensive large format view camera by careful post processing." CreationDate="2011-03-04T11:49:38.683" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13458" PostId="9425" Score="2" Text="@cabbey I can't see how the kit lens (at 55mm, f/5.6) on a crop body can get pretty darn close to the DoF of a 200mm f/2.8 on a full frame body!" CreationDate="2011-03-04T12:21:14.640" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13459" PostId="9424" Text="I am impressed of all the technical details you are able to pick from just looking at the photos !" CreationDate="2011-03-04T12:35:23.903" UserId="461" />
  <row Id="13461" PostId="9425" Text="@bernadette le, can you post one of your images?  it would help us to help you if we could see what you need to change." CreationDate="2011-03-04T13:17:09.380" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13462" PostId="9375" Text="Thanks for all the trips and tricks! I really appreciate it.&#xD;&#xA;Perhaps Lightroom should make it easier to export/save the selections.&#xD;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-04T13:31:13.703" UserId="4113" />
  <row Id="13463" PostId="9425" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [Help with getting bokeh effect.](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5493/help-with-getting-bokeh-effect/5496#5496)" CreationDate="2011-03-04T14:15:05.773" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13464" PostId="8605" Text="I ended up purchasing two nice Patriot cards from newegg.com.  They were much faster than the SanDisk card.  I let the camera rip in high speed, continuous shooting several times and it was able to write about 24 images with no problem to the card each time.  I just tossed that SanDisk card." CreationDate="2011-03-04T14:20:30.887" UserId="3805" />
  <row Id="13466" PostId="1692" Text="@Nick -- me too!" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:40:28.323" UserId="60" />
  <row Id="13467" PostId="9421" Score="2" Text="Hmmm...I'm left wondering whether I'm the only one who found these pictures exceptionally ugly and unimaginative. When you get down to it, &quot;pictures&quot; is almost a falsehood though -- we don't really have multiple pictures -- we just have one picture repeated dozens of times, with different people parked in front of the camera. It's one thing to show a distinctive style -- quite another to show a total lack of imagination, with no style at all." CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:41:49.430" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13468" PostId="9433" Score="3" Text="Note that many hotshoe flashes can also be used off-camera and triggered remotely. With some brands, the camera's built-in flash can communicate with the remote flash providing full automatic TTL exposure information." CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:50:10.107" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13469" PostId="9435" Text="Is the back wall there also green, or is that _all_ from the tinge you are seeing?" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:51:15.143" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13470" PostId="9435" Score="1" Text="Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4115/problem-with-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:56:25.950" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13471" PostId="9435" Text="@mattdm ALL from the tinge. @chills42 I think you're right, I'll close off the question." CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:01:33.887" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="13472" PostId="5493" Text="Note that &quot;bokeh&quot; refers to the _quality_ of out-of-focus blur, not to the amount of it per se. I've removed bokeh from this question, but see the answers about it here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2706/what-is-bokeh-really" CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:05:49.920" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13473" PostId="9438" Score="4" Text="Does 'live view' on the LCD not help?" CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:14:14.297" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="13478" PostId="562" Text="@jetxee is spot-on here. Downvoting until the math is fixed." CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:33:29.070" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13479" PostId="9441" Text="That's a great article... thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:45:28.027" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="13480" PostId="9438" Score="1" Text="@Shizam — I think live view still shows the aperture wide open until the picture is actually taken, doesn't it?" CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:58:53.183" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13481" PostId="9438" Text="See http://singhray.blogspot.com/2006/10/from-archive-graduated-neutral-density.html for a suggestion on how to use DOF-preview in positioning the graduated filter." CreationDate="2011-03-04T16:59:35.583" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13482" PostId="9439" Text="The last post-processing step should be asking yourself what you could have done better while taking the picture :)" CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:00:54.163" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13483" PostId="9443" Text="If the editing is non-destructive, it probably _still_ follows the order of operations you've given. (Otherwise, the results would be unpredictable.)" CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:16:36.167" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13484" PostId="9443" Text="I would say that a lot of retouching also depends on the target medium. If you're going to size it down considerably, you don't need to be pixel-perfect." CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:17:10.767" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13485" PostId="9438" Score="1" Text="The OPs question is because he doesn't have a DoF preview on his camera..." CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:21:46.023" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13486" PostId="9421" Score="2" Text="@Jerry: No, you're not the only one. They feel intrusively close to the subjects and because of that it makes me uncomfortable to look at them. There's far *more* detail than I want to see, and the subjects flaws are almost emphasized, rather than diminished as we usually see in photos... Which, I suspect, is part of Martin Schoeller's point (though I don't know for sure). They remind me of the stark uncomfortably close tabloid photography from the early-to-mid 20th century by photographers like Weegee..." CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:31:45.067" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13488" PostId="9421" Text="It actually reminds me of Chuck Close's superrealist painting style. The stark, hyperdetailed &quot;warts and all&quot; intrusiveness is part of the effect -- I don't think you can get the full effect until you see the pictures up close, in person and ten feet tall. I'm not saying I like the effect (and yes, there is but a single note playing in that song), but when you have a perspective that makes you feel you could crawl into those pores, it does kind of grab your insides a bit." CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:53:54.343" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13489" PostId="9439" Score="3" Text="Actually, that's what I ask myself both while taking the picture, and upon importing the pictures from the camera. I still take more shots than I probably need to, but I'm taking much more time now to review and delete photos in the camera on the spot. I don't post-process to rescue photos, I post-process to bring out the best. I think that's an important mind set when approaching the photo editing tools." CreationDate="2011-03-04T17:54:29.830" UserId="2559" />
  <row Id="13490" PostId="9436" Text="US uses 60 Hz, Europe uses 50 Hz. Not sure what's used down under..." CreationDate="2011-03-04T18:09:23.203" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="13491" PostId="9447" Score="2" Text="This mostly describes 'why' but not much of the 'how'. Somethings like CRTs are actually blurry by accident (not by design), so it nearly impossible to compensate correctly, it will vary not only by the monitor but by resolution, age, etc." CreationDate="2011-03-04T18:38:56.603" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13492" PostId="9425" Text="@Matt I didn't pull the exif to see what it was, but it looks like it's a foot or so deep. At 10' distance stopped down to f/3.6 that lens will do about that same depth. She's not going to duplicate that image, but she'll be more than capable of getting the kind of separation of model from background shown there." CreationDate="2011-03-04T19:41:39.520" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13493" PostId="9417" Text="This correctly computes the *maximum* angle created by light rays emanating *from any single point* at the back of the &quot;bin.&quot;  However, (a) very few of the rays will be separated by that angle yet (b) it underestimates the angle of spread from an extensive (i.e., non-point) light source.  Maybe we need to clarify what &quot;beam angle&quot; really means." CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:43:36.683" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13494" PostId="9447" Text="@Itai you have two objections.  The first one is a little unfair, given that @Guffa described how to compute the amount of sharpening (in pixels) based on the intended output size.  Indeed, that--and his second paragraph--addresses your second objection: it's a *starting value* to be modified according to the inherent blurriness of the output medium.  IMO, this answer deserves to be voted up." CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:48:17.987" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13495" PostId="9441" Text="That article is a really good resource to have. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:58:52.000" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="13496" PostId="9388" Score="1" Text="The answers at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/9432/1356 may be of some help.  Briefly: blur detection algorithms appear mainly to be local contrast/edge detectors with post-processing to estimate amount of blurriness." CreationDate="2011-03-04T21:04:55.277" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13497" PostId="9438" Text="Yeah I was posting that in case it wasn't clear why someone would want DOF preview for this purpose. " CreationDate="2011-03-04T21:52:31.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13499" PostId="9450" Text="It's not the DoF I'm interested in, it's the position of the grad, which apparently becomes clearer when you preview the DoF." CreationDate="2011-03-04T22:24:00.763" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="13500" PostId="9448" Text="Just to clarify, it's not the DoF I care about _per se_, it's the position of the grad. Obviously I can position it with trial and error, but if I'm trying to capture a changing scene like a sunset I'd rather be able to get it approximately correct quickly." CreationDate="2011-03-04T22:26:28.983" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="13501" PostId="3374" Text="I like Peter's suggestion about trying a tutorial and then trying your own techniques to achieve the same result. It's always helped me understand things better." CreationDate="2011-03-04T22:35:09.033" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="13502" PostId="1058" Text="I'm going to have to use that line with my wife... she always gets an uptight unhappy look on her face when I point a camera at her." CreationDate="2011-03-04T22:37:08.847" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13503" PostId="9450" Text="As someone who uses ND Grads regularly, unless you have some very thin DOF with a very blurry background, it doesn't matter a bit. Even if you did have a blurry background, it still isn't going to matter much, since the transition into ND is a very soft effect, and you certainly don't need that much precision positioning it. " CreationDate="2011-03-04T23:15:00.293" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13504" PostId="9417" Text="@whuber - I agree with (a). Obviously, the light intensity is not uniform across the beam cross section. I think that, per section, there is a (smaller) square across which the intensity is maximal. Outer of that square, the intensity decreases as you approach the edge of the section. As of (b), I don't see how the analysis underestimates the fact that the source is not a point source. " CreationDate="2011-03-05T00:06:09.937" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13505" PostId="4258" Text="Had a look at the Sigma Bigma John, whilst in Australia, I was very tempted as the price was very competative. I am still thinking about the Cannon 400mm, its only money thats stopping me. I think I will probably buy the Canon 7 D first then move on to a better lens later." CreationDate="2011-03-05T00:22:21.510" UserId="1179" />
  <row Id="13506" PostId="9389" Text="@Jon.Griffen: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8043/ \*cough\* \*cough\* :)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T01:00:42.333" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13507" PostId="9417" Text="@ysap I provide an analysis of (b) in my reply to this thread.  Your analysis considers the spread *from a single point*, as if all the light were emanating from one corner of your bin.  That's not how the setup works: there's usually a fairly broad light source behind the grid.  You are correct about (a); the falloff can be computed as a convolution of two squares: that makes a middle square maximally bright with linear decrease in intensity outwards from it." CreationDate="2011-03-05T01:22:56.900" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13508" PostId="9455" Score="3" Text="Sounds like you need 'Footloose era' John Lithgow to ban dancing in your town. No more sweaty kids in your pictures... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T01:55:30.030" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13509" PostId="9457" Score="3" Text="This seems really specific to this particular program. Does it come with a manual?" CreationDate="2011-03-05T03:18:56.867" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13510" PostId="9457" Text="@mattdm - I agree with you and I suspect that he now has a window of time to get the answer as a result. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T03:56:43.840" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13511" PostId="9456" Text="+1 Or Stofen for a speedlight diffuser. Failing that, nothing like some white paper held on with an elastic to act as a bounce card." CreationDate="2011-03-05T03:59:35.037" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13512" PostId="9417" Text="@whuber - I don't think my analysis limits the result to a single point source. It just presumes that the maximal angle is obtained from the far opposite corners of the bin. Any other ray from any other point in the source will be limited to a smaller angle. Note that this is not a strict stereometric proof, but rather an explanation in which I take freedom to not mention the obvious." CreationDate="2011-03-05T05:05:22.563" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13513" PostId="9448" Text="You can get it *approximately* correct without stopping down at all -- and to get it closer than that, taking an image is faster than a DoF preview would be (it really does take several seconds for your eyes to adjust enough to the reduced light to make it worthwhile). And it should only take one image to get it right. Live view might do the trick, but I'm not familiar enough with the D5000 to say one way or another." CreationDate="2011-03-05T05:10:14.203" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13515" PostId="9456" Text="note: I believe you mean [diffuse](http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/diffuse#Verb), not [defuse](http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/defuse#Verb) ([see also](http://englishplus.com/grammar/00000273.htm)).  I'll assume it was just a typo (especially since you got &quot;diffuser&quot; right, later).  :)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T07:07:19.680" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13516" PostId="9461" Text="For point 2, see also [strobist lighting 101](http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html) -- a *much* longer answer (especially if you follow it up with the rest of the strobist content), but also potentially quite helpful (except perhaps to your wallet ;))" CreationDate="2011-03-05T07:11:48.133" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13517" PostId="9461" Text="Flash brackets are a real pain in the butt -- until you use something that's actually good at diffusing the flash adequately when there are no reflective surfaces available, like a 12&quot;x16&quot; or 16&quot;x16&quot; softbox (for example, Westcott's Mini Apollo). They're just a bit much to hand-hold. " CreationDate="2011-03-05T07:18:31.400" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13518" PostId="9423" Text="Nice explanation!" CreationDate="2011-03-05T07:18:58.593" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13519" PostId="9363" Text="Interestingly, in-lens stabilization is more practical with video, and Panasonic make pro video cameras in the same mount, hence in-lens stabilization kinda makes sense for them.  Forgive me for my cynicism but sometimes I think with Canon and Nikon it's probably just so they can sell the same lenses again and charge more per lens." CreationDate="2011-03-05T07:39:54.307" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13520" PostId="9389" Text="thanks for the corrections, I had just based this off my perception, which is obviously subjective. I've edited my answer to indicate this." CreationDate="2011-03-05T08:43:39.233" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="13521" PostId="9463" Score="11" Text="The choice between better photos and looking dorky is surely one every photographer faces at some point in their lives!" CreationDate="2011-03-05T10:12:46.560" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13522" PostId="9465" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8117/celebrity-photographies-copyrights for some details. I think this is a duplicate, but the immediate answer is that you can probably post it." CreationDate="2011-03-05T11:56:51.167" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13523" PostId="9467" Text="possible duplicate of [What defines a camera as SLR](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8211/what-defines-a-camera-as-slr)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T15:22:14.380" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13524" PostId="9467" Score="2" Text="This question is a duplicate of the earlier http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8211/, although you've asked the question much more nicely." CreationDate="2011-03-05T15:22:58.797" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13525" PostId="9471" Score="1" Text="There are now a few P&amp;S cameras which use phase detection as well." CreationDate="2011-03-05T15:23:51.570" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13526" PostId="9474" Text="I would recommend using the quote environment to highlight the last paragraph. It is the part you really want to stand out. " CreationDate="2011-03-05T15:30:25.717" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="13527" PostId="9474" Text="+1 for letting auto iso handle light changes." CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:09:22.423" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13528" PostId="9475" Text="You planning on using your iPad as an onsite backup solution?  I hope you got the big one!" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:24:28.540" UserId="4171" />
  <row Id="13529" PostId="9456" Text="@lindes - Typo corrected. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-05T17:03:47.940" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13530" PostId="9472" Score="1" Text="There's motion blur, and out-of-focus blur. It appears you are talking about the camera's inability to acquire focus because of low light. Can you confirm which you mean?" CreationDate="2011-03-05T17:38:02.137" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13531" PostId="9467" Text="What do you mean by 'equivalent to a DSLR'? (in quality? in features? in weight? in gold?) and what about 'use my camera as an SLR'? (to gain access to the SLR club? to impress people? to say you're a pro?) Sorry, but only your last question makes any sense." CreationDate="2011-03-05T17:56:21.140" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13532" PostId="9441" Text="Thanks! The article was very useful. I've been doing the capture and creative sharpening steps for some time now, and it makes sense to me when he says the final sharpening is less important when viewing the final result on a monitor. I rarely make prints of my photos" CreationDate="2011-03-05T18:14:58.250" UserId="2559" />
  <row Id="13533" PostId="9459" Text="I've converted this to community wiki, given the nature of the question." CreationDate="2011-03-05T18:46:32.390" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13534" PostId="9417" Text="@ysap I beg to differ, because your analysis produces only one-half the correct angle.  Check out @Simon Eugster's nicely illustrated page for empirical confirmation (the link is in his reply here).  Perhaps &quot;the obvious&quot; is not so obvious after all :-)." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:05:44.863" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13535" PostId="9462" Score="1" Text="+1 Great illustrations!  The shape on the wall, by the way, is the dilation (convolution; Minkowski sum) of the outlet cross-section via the inlet cross-section.  As you say, when both are squares the shape is square and when both are circles the shape is circular.  And yes, I left my explanation in terms of tangents because they correspond exactly to how you are thinking about the angle: as amount of horizontal spread for each unit distance outward from the grid.  I think most people would agree that's more intuitive than computing an inverse tangent :-)." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:10:19.913" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13536" PostId="9465" Text="I've closed this as a duplicate, as the question linked by John should definitely have your answers." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:24:22.377" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13537" PostId="9456" Text="@Itai Cool, you're welcome.  :)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:27:15.883" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13538" PostId="9480" Score="1" Text="+1 It's always great to hear from people who are sharing their experience with us.  (BTW, f5.6 to f2.8 is *two* stops, not one.)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:43:36.440" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13539" PostId="9417" Text="@whuber - I said that exactly &quot;from center line - axis - to one side&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:48:13.313" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13540" PostId="9469" Score="1" Text="+1 Exactly the right answer, with lots of additional useful information added." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:49:32.873" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13541" PostId="9417" Text="@ysap Yes, you did.  But that's not the angle at which the light spreads as it emerges from the bin.  The spread (along the diagonal) is exactly *twice* the value you compute." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:51:16.803" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13542" PostId="9417" Text="@whuber - It is a matter of definition of head angle, like in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cone_%28geometry%29#Further_terminology." CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:55:44.473" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13543" PostId="9417" Text="@ysap Your diagram is a nice one and is perfectly clear.  Your computation is correct, too.  But that's not the point: it does not account for light emanating say, at the diagonally opposite point along the back square.  That possibility causes the collected light rays actually to spread twice as much as you compute.  Again I would refer you to @Simon's page, because he has actually *observed* the spread.  There's nothing like an empirical confirmation of a theoretical calculation!" CreationDate="2011-03-05T19:58:36.310" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13544" PostId="9413" Text="@Cabbey Is there an authoritative reference to &quot;beam angle&quot; you could share?  It might help resolve the question concerning how to calculate (or measure) it.  Replies in this thread differ by a factor of two--which seems like a pretty big difference to me--but I wonder whether that might just be a matter of definition." CreationDate="2011-03-05T20:01:13.080" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13545" PostId="9417" Text="@whuber - again, we are in a full agreement here. Just in case &quot;the obvious was not so obvious&quot;, I updated the answer and clarified my intention. My reference to Wikipedia was to show that by convention, the head angle (Theta) is measured from the axis. It is &quot;obvious&quot; that a cone is twice as wide as that angle..." CreationDate="2011-03-05T20:07:25.317" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13546" PostId="9417" Text="@ysap +1 Yes, the clarification brings us into agreement.  Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-03-05T20:09:41.117" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13547" PostId="9417" Text="@whuber - BTW, I used Word to draw this, then made a screen capture for the bitmap. How did you generate your nice diagram?" CreationDate="2011-03-05T20:10:00.727" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13548" PostId="9417" Score="1" Text="@ysap **Geogebra** (http://www.geogebra.org/cms/ )  It's kind of a grown-up computer-assisted ruler&amp;compass system. The interface is a little funky but simple and quick to learn. You can create interactive (Java) Web pages with it, too. To make my diagram I had to specify only seven points: ABCD, H, and two (invisible) points on line JL.  Everything else was constructed from them.  If they ever make a 3D version it will awesome :-)." CreationDate="2011-03-05T20:16:17.990" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13549" PostId="9471" Text="Yes, Fuji isn't it? The main image sensor also contains a number of phase-detection &quot;pixels&quot; here and there. Clever." CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:01:18.637" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13550" PostId="9466" Text="Awesome, thanks. I can't award the bounty yet, but I'll be _amazed_ if someone comes along and tops this. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:01:37.283" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13551" PostId="9483" Score="1" Text="Can you post something you've tried?  It will help us guide you in a direction." CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:06:27.740" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13552" PostId="9483" Score="4" Text="The two photos you've posted a very different, what about them specifically are you trying to replicate? The first one has very high magnification, the photographer states he stacked three macro lenses to get it, so you would need a similar setup or a specialist lens like the Canon MPe-65" CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:07:03.737" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13553" PostId="9466" Text="Based on this, I've added &quot;vibrance&quot; to my list of photography-related features missing from Gimp. I think even with your process for doing something similar, it still counts as &quot;missing&quot;. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/556/what-are-the-key-photography-related-features-from-photoshop-that-are-missing-in/7691#7691" CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:12:55.527" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13554" PostId="561" Text="The gimp does have adjustment layers. They don't work quite the same as PS's, but it has them. You can see one in action on my answer about vibrance: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9398/is-there-an-equivalent-to-adobes-vibrance-in-gimp/9466#9466" CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:40:35.860" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13555" PostId="7691" Text="it's not really fair to put the adjustment layers on there, as I showed in my vibrance answer, it does have them, they just work differently." CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:42:20.197" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13556" PostId="9413" Score="1" Text="I'm sure we have one in the stage lighting world, let me dig one up. Note that a 2x or 1/2 difference can **easily** be attributed to someone looking at the radius instead of the diameter of the beam. " CreationDate="2011-03-05T21:48:37.383" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13557" PostId="9413" Text="http://www.le-us.com/stagemath.html and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stage_lighting_instrument#Field_angle are the closest I see in a few minutes search. Otherwise I'd have to quote from my copy of http://www.amazon.com/Backstage-Handbook-Illustrated-Technical-Information/dp/0911747397 that's on my shelf." CreationDate="2011-03-05T22:02:07.840" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13558" PostId="9479" Score="1" Text="And to address the question of RAW images, yes you can put RAW images from your 5DII onto the iPad and it'll even create jpgs from them to view in your camera roll." CreationDate="2011-03-05T22:25:02.930" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="13559" PostId="9483" Text="In both cases, you can clearly see the fibrous structure of the iris -- &quot;veiny pupils&quot; is probably not the best choice of words to describe it. I know that there *are* words, but one of the downsides to my condition is that it's often difficult to round up the ones I want when I need them. If they drop by this evening, I'll edit the question -- but feel free to beat me to the punch." CreationDate="2011-03-05T22:36:55.623" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13560" PostId="9489" Score="2" Text="Also be aware that when accessing RAW images stored on the ipad via a 3rd party app (to upload for instance) depending on how the developer wrote the app the jpgs it gets from your RAW files may only be a max of 1600x1600px, not the full resolution.  In fact, the vast majority of apps will only get the 1600x1600px version so don't delete the original RAW files from your device..." CreationDate="2011-03-05T23:29:41.410" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="13561" PostId="9485" Score="4" Text="The recommend-a-camera-question doesn't work very well on this site. The answer changes monthly as new models come out, and every year the quality of what you can get at the budget price level increases. Therefore, the best answer can really only be &quot;Check out the current budget camera reviews at a camera review site&quot; — which doesn't really answer your question." CreationDate="2011-03-06T00:02:40.377" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13562" PostId="9413" Text="From the two links provided by @cabbey, my understanding is that the beam angle is (generally) defined as the angle from side to side and not from the axis to a side." CreationDate="2011-03-06T00:04:23.497" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13563" PostId="9480" Text="@whuber, Doh! You're right. I'll update it. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-03-06T00:12:30.897" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13564" PostId="9483" Text="@Zach Inglis: The pupil is actually describing a void, the space through which light enters the eye (which can be viewed as synonymous with the &quot;aperture&quot; of a camera.) I believe it is the iris, or the muscle that contracts or relaxes to change the size of the pupil that you are referring to (which can be viewed as synonymous with the &quot;diaphragm&quot; of a camera.) I've edited the title to reflect." CreationDate="2011-03-06T01:20:45.727" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13565" PostId="9483" Text="2jrista: &quot;Iris&quot;, I had (it's there in my comment). Believe it or not, it was the word &quot;detail&quot; that eluded me. That's the way my brain works these days -- something like &quot;autodidact&quot; springs straight to mind, but it'll be Tuesday next week before I can say &quot;self-taught&quot;. Thanks for making the edit." CreationDate="2011-03-06T01:27:03.937" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13566" PostId="9483" Text="@Stan: Oh, my bad, you did have Iris. " CreationDate="2011-03-06T01:29:10.927" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13568" PostId="9494" Text="How would bumping up the ISO affect his autofocus issue?..." CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:25:55.277" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13569" PostId="556" Text="This is the current development roadmap for Gimp: http://gimp-wiki.who.ee/index.php/GIMP_Roadmap . This is useful for getting an idea of what shortcomings (like lack of high bit depth) will be rectified soon, and of what else is coming in the near future." CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:31:58.223" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13570" PostId="556" Text="(URL may change; as of March 2011 that's correct but is noted as temporary. I'll replace this comment if it does.)" CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:32:16.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13571" PostId="9467" Text="@Itai - I meant in features typically. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:42:50.647" UserId="1272" />
  <row Id="13572" PostId="7691" Text="@cabbey — they work differently enough that I think it's fair. A saturation-mode layer, for example, _replaces_ the saturation of the layers below. You can change the amount of replacement with the opacity slider, but that's still different to work with than an adjustment layer. And many of the _types_ of adjustments layers can't intuitively be emulated this way." CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:50:20.690" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13573" PostId="7691" Text="Very true @mattdm. Maybe &quot;minimal, limited, adjustment layers.&quot; instead of &quot;No adjustment layers.&quot; since they do at least TRY." CreationDate="2011-03-06T05:52:11.667" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13574" PostId="9192" Text="@mmr — yeah, I'm changing it. Mediums are for communicating with dead relatives. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-06T06:51:57.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13575" PostId="9210" Text="I don't think giclée is usually specifically meant to apply to canvas prints. It's a word used to make high-quality inkjet prints sound fancy and artsy. _Unfortunately_, it's also French slang related to its meaning of &quot;spurt&quot;, which may be one reason the term has fallen from favor after a brief period of popularity." CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:01:58.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13576" PostId="9210" Text="very good point @mattdm, adjusting to account for that." CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:08:46.700" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13577" PostId="9494" Text="Bumping up ISO solely isn't gonna solve the issue, bumping up the ISO gives you chance to use smaller aperture and most lenses perform better when stepped down. I personally never used the Sigma 70-200mm but when my lens starts hunting, I generally bump the ISO up and use a smaller aperture, this solves the issue most of the case." CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:21:10.470" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13578" PostId="9494" Text="@rfusca, I've edited my post, Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:28:22.867" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13579" PostId="9344" Text="Thank you Matt, I think Extension tubes are an excellent alternative macro technique, its easier, comparatively cheaper and doesn't compromise image quality big time." CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:30:55.330" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13580" PostId="9474" Score="1" Text="@bbischof but who is that quoting? seems an unnatural use of the markdown. If you want to highlight that section, there are markdown options that make more sense, such as ** to bold the opening phrase. Abusing the quote markdown to highlight your own words seems... wrong." CreationDate="2011-03-06T07:43:34.113" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13581" PostId="9497" Score="8" Text="There is no such thing as the &quot;correct colours&quot;. Different RAW processors produce slightly different results. It is a matter of taste which one of them &quot;looks correct&quot;, if any. So your question really is: how to replicate the results of Adobe Camera Raw by tweaking the setting in Aperture." CreationDate="2011-03-06T09:43:10.247" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13582" PostId="9474" Text="Thanks for your comments. Still very new to ISO and aperture settings but the more I use the camera the more I learn. Whenever I have taken sports photos before I have normally set the aperture and the iso is set automatically. I will have to practice a little first I think. I have a mini pod so I can at least minimize as much movement as possible but as light is low and not always constant, it takes a bit of fine tuning to get it right.  " CreationDate="2011-03-06T10:38:34.440" UserId="4170" />
  <row Id="13583" PostId="9473" Text="Thanks for your advice Brian." CreationDate="2011-03-06T10:41:08.913" UserId="4170" />
  <row Id="13584" PostId="9494" Text="Thanks for your advice. Unfortunately beim" CreationDate="2011-03-06T10:41:30.333" UserId="4170" />
  <row Id="13585" PostId="9496" Score="1" Text="+1 Sane answer. It is also good to take into consideration if the scanning is &quot;something that needs to get over with&quot; or just one interesting aspect of the hobby. Like with printing, someone might do it *cheaper*, but it is still done by *someone else*. Ask yourself is photography (for you) just [taking/making](http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/5936/1913) photographs or the whole process from photons to dots/pixels." CreationDate="2011-03-06T10:49:47.560" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="13586" PostId="9498" Text="even with hue-boost or without, the results on red are the same :( by viewing the master also the color are the same :(" CreationDate="2011-03-06T11:17:16.980" UserId="1956" />
  <row Id="13587" PostId="9494" Text="@Nikkibnakkinoo - sorry? didnt get the 'beim' part." CreationDate="2011-03-06T12:00:26.350" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13588" PostId="9473" Text="My pleasure.  Hope you find the combination of things that work.  Shooting sports photography can be quite exciting!  Plus gives you another excuse to go to sporting events!" CreationDate="2011-03-06T12:34:11.797" UserId="4171" />
  <row Id="13589" PostId="9503" Text="*&quot;Its always best to use the software that came with your camera (DPP for Canon) when processing RAW images.&quot;* Well, it depends on your definition of &quot;best&quot;. If you use Canon software, you will get the same colours as what you have in the JPEG files that are produced by the camera. But what makes you believe that those colours are &quot;correct&quot; or &quot;original&quot;...?" CreationDate="2011-03-06T12:41:52.897" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13590" PostId="3742" Text="Sigh.  Eye-fi iPhone application not available in a non-free version for those without a Eye-fi card.  Oh, well." CreationDate="2011-03-06T12:43:14.453" UserId="4181" />
  <row Id="13591" PostId="9503" Text="*&quot;Aperture 3 is a well known software used widely, so its less likely to have a major problem like not-preserving original colors.&quot;* And this is simply not true. Aperture 3 certainly produces colours that are different from what is produced by, e.g., Canon software. You can easily see it if you have a look at what happens while Aperture processes the photos. First you'll see the JPEG previews (which are produced by the camera and embedded in the RAW file); they are then replaced by a version that is produced by Aperture, and the colours do change noticeably." CreationDate="2011-03-06T12:45:16.137" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13592" PostId="9497" Text="Incidentally, you can easily find lots of examples where people have compared Adobe Camera Raw and Canon Digital Photo Professional. Again, the situation is similar: photos will have different colours, depending on which software you use to process the raw files. Moreover, it is not usually so that software X always produces &quot;better&quot; results than software Y; for instance, I usually prefer the output of Aperture 3 to Canon's software, but I have also seen photos that looked worse when processed with Aperture 3. However, you can usually fix it by slightly tweaking the white balance settings." CreationDate="2011-03-06T12:59:14.797" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13593" PostId="9499" Score="15" Text="Tell them the range from the very widest Canon lens in existence to the very longest. That's somewhere between 8mm and 5000mm for a 625x zoom. At which point you can the explain the difference between a camera and a lens to them..." CreationDate="2011-03-06T13:20:41.447" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13594" PostId="9503" Text="I did not changed any setting after the import of the image (even white balance). The only enabled settings are those from the &quot;RAW Fine Tuning&quot;. The only one of those which is tuning the color, is the Hue Boost, which however I &quot;tweak&quot; it, I do not get even close to the correct color. And by &quot;correct&quot; color I mean the actual color of the sweater.. Even the JPEG preview that was displayed instantly it was way better than that! The hue-boost by the way, it makes skin color appears more yellowish.. That's why I've removed it from the default settings.." CreationDate="2011-03-06T13:26:47.183" UserId="1956" />
  <row Id="13595" PostId="9502" Score="2" Text="Other than the review seems like it will be difficult to comment on a product that has not shipped yet. I've ordered one though, looks fun!" CreationDate="2011-03-06T14:41:48.123" UserId="4182" />
  <row Id="13596" PostId="1372" Score="1" Text="The inside layer doesn't unpolarize the light — it just polarizes it in a strange, non-intuitive way." CreationDate="2011-03-06T15:43:18.453" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13597" PostId="9488" Text="See also &quot;What is the difference between a linear and a circular polarizer?&quot; http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1368 — but none of the answers there directly address your confusion." CreationDate="2011-03-06T15:43:49.203" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13598" PostId="1397" Text="The inside layer doesn't unpolarize the light — it just polarizes it in a strange, non-intuitive way." CreationDate="2011-03-06T15:44:44.427" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13599" PostId="9490" Score="1" Text="The circularly-polarized light isn't _de_polarized. It's still polarized but in a different way. And, I don't think it's right that the autofocus sensors themselves are oriented to a specific polarization — it's just a matter of how light is diverted to them. The net effect is that the conclusion of your answer is right, but the background details you've given are questionable." CreationDate="2011-03-06T15:48:21.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13600" PostId="9502" Score="3" Text="My advice would be that if you care about the camera, get something other than an iPhone. " CreationDate="2011-03-06T16:14:36.497" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13601" PostId="9502" Score="2" Text="@Jerry The sample pictures (available through the OP's link) are telling: even at 2 x 3&quot; on the screen, they are strongly blurred.  Sounds like a good outfit for capturing pictures of UFOs :-)." CreationDate="2011-03-06T16:28:42.480" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13602" PostId="9506" Score="3" Text="I'm _very_ skeptical that the mirror assembly would &quot;pop out&quot;, let alone that some such serious defect wouldn't be covered by Canon's warranty. I'm all for Pentax, which is a great brand, but I don't think your friend's stories are doing Pentax any favors." CreationDate="2011-03-06T16:50:22.187" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13603" PostId="9502" Text="@Jerry Coffin: the iPhone camera beats every phone camera on the market today except the Nokia N8." CreationDate="2011-03-06T16:54:19.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13604" PostId="9506" Text="mattdm, thanks for sharing. I'm very worried that I may inadvertently damage my DSLR from occasional video. Your feedback helps calm my fears (especially since the 7D is quite an investment). Thanks again." CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:01:48.197" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="13605" PostId="9508" Text="Matt, thanks for sharing. You're right about long bulb exposures (why didn't I think of that!) Glad to hear that my fear is unsubstantiated. Thanks for clearing the air for this beginner who's new to photography and to this forum. Much appreciated." CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:05:44.150" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="13606" PostId="9509" Text="Two of the shorts I filmed last year were top 10 finishers in the Canon 'Story Behind the Still' competition, and can be found here if you're interested in watching them: http://www.vimeo.com/9387228, http://www.vimeo.com/10327340" CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:15:33.433" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13607" PostId="9504" Text="I once tested linear polarizers with my Nikon D90, and I can confirm that the effects really are minor. When setting to auto mode, the brightness of images taken with the polarizer held horizontally and vertically differed by about 1/3 f-stop (estimated). " CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:43:51.857" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13608" PostId="9502" Text="@mattdm: it may have better specs, but in actual use that doesn't seem to be true. I've used the camera in my wife's iPhone, and it's really pretty dreadful. I use a dirt-cheap Samsung phone (sorry, don't know a model, and can't find a marking) seems to be considerably better. Mind you, it's not what I could possibly call &quot;good&quot;, but it's less bad." CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:48:21.633" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13609" PostId="9502" Text="@whuber: I suppose in fairness, you shouldn't expect *too* much from an 8x zoom that costs only $35, especially when it's an add-on, not a complete lens on its own." CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:50:25.533" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13610" PostId="9502" Text="@Jerry That's right.  The sample picture shows just how bad it is.  It's approximately pinhole camera quality." CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:54:41.447" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13611" PostId="9502" Text="@whuber: yup -- though looking again, I should correct what I said above -- looking again, it's not a zoom, just a &quot;teleconverter&quot; (albeit, one that sits in front of the original instead of behind it)." CreationDate="2011-03-06T17:58:50.593" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13612" PostId="9509" Text="Hi Jay, thanks for sharing your experience. I'm very happy to say I'm getting my first DSLR and it's an EOS 7D. " CreationDate="2011-03-06T18:06:06.677" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="13613" PostId="9506" Score="5" Text="I'm a Pentax shooter and I have to say, that's the most absurd thing I've ever heard and I wish such users would stop the noise! The Canon 7D and Pentax K5 are both top notch cameras that will, in all probability, do everything you want and then some. " CreationDate="2011-03-06T18:07:49.687" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13614" PostId="9511" Text="Jerry, thanks for sharing. What you say about mechanical wear and tear makes a lot of sense." CreationDate="2011-03-06T18:17:49.343" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="13615" PostId="9504" Text="A lot depends on what you're shooting. On a digital camera, you normally have enough latitude that the error from a linear polarizer would almost never matter. Speaking from experience, that's *not* true when you shoot Velvia though." CreationDate="2011-03-06T18:19:22.597" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13616" PostId="9502" Text="@Jerry Coffin: no, it's actually lower-speced than many competing phones, but produces relatively good results. (Note that I'm speaking of the iPhone 4, which has a much better camera module than the earlier ones.)" CreationDate="2011-03-06T18:52:03.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13617" PostId="9502" Text="@mattdm: he was talking about the 3GS. My sister-in-law has an iPhone 4, which I've played with a bit as well. It's definitely an improvement over earlier iPhones, but at least to me it looks like barely enough to be *reasonably* competitive instead of obviously inferior to everything else." CreationDate="2011-03-06T18:59:43.627" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13618" PostId="9467" Text="@Sachin - Thanks for the clarification. I can now write a meaningful answer :) See below." CreationDate="2011-03-06T19:38:39.467" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13619" PostId="9493" Text="Yes. I'm taking JPEG's straight out of the cam only. Well, I haven't have tried taking RAW simply because I never felt the need to do so. Photographs come crystal clear and tact sharp in JPEGs too. I don't think there's any setting in the camera to reduce sharpening, but I'll try taking RAW next time and see if that can help." CreationDate="2011-03-06T19:56:42.577" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="13620" PostId="9493" Score="3" Text="Yes there is such a setting. And if you did not play with it, then someone else probably did! I am used to seeing output from cameras such as yours and the defaults are rarely such oversharpened. If you can't figure it out, then read the manual and do a factory reset. Look for something like 'Picture Style' or 'Film Style' or 'Color Mode'. Sometimes choosing something like 'Landscape' or 'Vibrant' really screws things up." CreationDate="2011-03-06T20:08:18.663" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13621" PostId="9474" Text="@cabbey whoa, your are really putting a lot of thought into these environments. I think this is useful, so I recommend it. I learned the trick from other SE users and sites. I find that it increases visibility of the really essential part of ones question. While the excess info in a question is undoubtably useful, showing readers the heart of it, helps. But I don't give much thought to environment names, for instance, when using boldface I do not feel emboldened. :/" CreationDate="2011-03-06T21:38:42.683" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="13622" PostId="9474" Text="@cabbey, I have to agree with @BBischof (which is why I took the suggestion). It's just a way of making the text stand out and there's not a lot of options there. So, if people feel that it does need something like that, I'm good with it." CreationDate="2011-03-06T21:42:47.210" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13623" PostId="9515" Text="Ahh yes changing the mode works. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-06T22:26:28.450" UserId="1431" />
  <row Id="13624" PostId="9515" Text="@Eric Or hit the AE lock button again just before taking the picture: that will reset the exposure for the picture and taking the picture cancels the lock." CreationDate="2011-03-06T23:35:56.103" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13625" PostId="9496" Text="Thank you, cabbey, your point is a good one and no doubt there's someone similar to ScanCafe here in Australia. " CreationDate="2011-03-07T00:29:49.077" UserId="4177" />
  <row Id="13626" PostId="9490" Text="*All* light is *linearly* polarized, *all* of the time. That is, every photon of light has a polarity (an orientation of the E and H fields perpendicular to its direction of travel). A linear polarizer merely blocks light that is not polarized within a small tolerance of its line orientation. A CP twists the light to be tangentially rather than sagitally polarized *at back of the filter*, but the result is that *at the sensor plane* the light is effecively unpolarized (or, rather, *more randomly polarized* than it would have been without the LP element)." CreationDate="2011-03-07T00:30:02.557" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13627" PostId="9496" Text="I also acknowledged @kolyu's point, saying yes, I'd like to do the work myself. And to the above I added the question (guess all this was edited out): Can I get good/9 out of 10 results with my Epson V350 photo scanner -- using, say, some help from Photomatix -- or are the pros with experience and equipment going to do much better?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T02:12:28.933" UserId="4177" />
  <row Id="13628" PostId="9518" Text="What about phase-detect autofocus as implemented in the Fujifilm F300 EXR?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T03:10:48.840" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13629" PostId="9503" Text="@Jukka Suomela - I dont agree to your opinion. &quot;you will get the same colours as what you have in the JPEG files that are produced by the camera&quot;. I tested this a couple of times as I was a JPEG shooter not a RAW shooter. Few days ago I tried shooting RAW and the colors and sharpness I got from a RAW converted JPEG is much better than a direct JPEG. My 550D produces 8MB JPEG files but RAW converted JPEG files are 13MB+. This explains a lot as you have twice the information in a RAW converted JPEG file." CreationDate="2011-03-07T03:43:50.040" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13630" PostId="9518" Text="I've added the words &quot;almost always&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-07T04:54:10.797" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13631" PostId="9512" Text="I think that sensor size is the major difference here - this is missing in this answer." CreationDate="2011-03-07T05:22:35.637" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13632" PostId="9500" Text="+1 for one-upping them." CreationDate="2011-03-07T06:03:07.947" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13633" PostId="9404" Text="why? Comfort. I've chronic back problems and it has a very good weight distribution across my body.&#xA;And the way it's carried, it sits like a backpack almost when you want to, yet can be carried at your front as well without removing it from your back, just swing it around.&#xA;&#xA;With the size and shape, you'll also be forced to think about what you carry (it's not too small, but there's almost no excess space for junk), reducing weight and clutter." CreationDate="2011-03-07T06:49:19.793" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13634" PostId="9504" Text="it also depends on the specific camera (make and model). Linear polarisers were fine with older SLRs up into the 1990s for example, when different materials and sensors were starting to get into SLRs requiring circular polarisers (I've tested it years ago, and did see a difference with my Nikon F80, when an old Minolta X300 could use linears with no difference for example)." CreationDate="2011-03-07T07:33:25.697" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13636" PostId="9494" Text="I've a 70-200 Sigma and have no problems with it whatsoever. The one time it did fail to AF it was a dirty contact in the TC I'd bolted to it that caused the AF signal between the camera and the lens to be blocked.&#xA;Cleaned the contacts and the problem went away." CreationDate="2011-03-07T07:38:36.473" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13637" PostId="9494" Text="@jwenting, third party lenses typically end up with higher number of bad copies in the production line. I've heard about good copies, bad copies, world-conquering copies of the same lens. If you buy from a physical store you can always try multiple copies before you buy but not everyone get this chance." CreationDate="2011-03-07T08:12:20.310" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13638" PostId="9527" Score="1" Text="I would disagree on the terminology, rolling implies something is constantly happening in a cycle, such as a rolling roster or rolling substitutes in sport, and as such only applies to repeatedly reading the image line by line electronically as in live view, not to the operation of a mechanical shutter." CreationDate="2011-03-07T10:07:20.650" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13639" PostId="9494" Text="hmm, not my experience with Sigma but then I only buy their EX line which are built to similar specs as are the top lines of Nikon or Canon.&#xA;I think you're confusing 3rd party with cheap and low quality, comparing Nikon's high end offerings with Sigma's entry level (which is indeed below Nikon's entry level for the most part)." CreationDate="2011-03-07T10:29:13.513" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13640" PostId="9523" Score="2" Text="What Adam is talking about is not actually a rolling shutter, it's just a focal plane shutter.  It also does nothing special above 1/200." CreationDate="2011-03-07T10:36:27.173" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13641" PostId="9494" Text="@jwenting, this is a never ending debate. I'd recommend  a third party lens (Sigma/Tamron etc) only if he cant afford one from Canon/Nikon or if the lens is well known for its quality (Tokina 11-16mm for example). No matter if its top of their production line, avoiding 3rd party lenses is the best choice for anybody without an air-tight budget. You always get what you pay for." CreationDate="2011-03-07T11:13:40.607" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13642" PostId="7237" Text="@cabbey: How do you position the card? So it directly faces light source or your camera? Amount of light on it can differ greatly when card angle changes." CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:20:46.700" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="13643" PostId="9471" Text="Yes, the Fuji Finepix F300 EXR and Z800 EXR work that way." CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:23:09.147" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13644" PostId="9532" Score="2" Text="Could you post example images, including a 1:1 crop and the picture taking conditions, camera, etc?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:23:24.793" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13645" PostId="9512" Text="@tomasrutter - I asked the OP to clarify what he meant and said he was talking about features. Sensor-size is a significant difference but in terms of features it is mostly an implementation detail. As someone pointed out, there are fixed-lens cameras with large sensors too." CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:24:59.240" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13646" PostId="9490" Text="Saying that every photon has polarity is not the same as saying that all light is polarized. I'll agree that circularly-polarized light is effectively same as  unpolarized, for the purposes of mitigating any polarizing effect of the beam-splitter. But I've never heard that phase-detect autofocus sensors _themselves_ are sensitive to polarization. Do you have a source for this?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:30:37.040" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13648" PostId="9518" Text="So, as I understand it, it's not the phase-detect sensors themselves that are sensitive to polarization, but the beam-splitter used in autofocus SLRs to divert light down to the AF module at the bottom of the mirror-box while sending most of it up to the viewfinder. The phase-detect sensors in the Fujifilm F300 EXR are directly embedded in the sensor, so there's no beam-splitting." CreationDate="2011-03-07T13:35:53.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13649" PostId="9534" Text="He's a little less balanced when speculating _outside_ of Nikon, though." CreationDate="2011-03-07T14:23:14.923" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13650" PostId="9479" Text="Yup.  I've done this no problems with my 5DmkII / iPad.  " CreationDate="2011-03-07T14:29:00.953" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13651" PostId="9532" Text="You should try the Sigma 20mm f/1.8 :) The last full stop, at a minimum, on this baby is purely there for propaganda reasons, it is more of an f/2.8 if you want any kind of sharpness." CreationDate="2011-03-07T14:32:15.723" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13652" PostId="9527" Text="@Matt Grum: This, for example, disagrees with you: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_shutter" CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:09:24.087" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="13653" PostId="9524" Text="No, a rolling shutter doesn't imply that the image is read repeatedly." CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:13:03.240" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="13654" PostId="9518" Text="mattdm I've wondered about that before actually.  I'm guessing you are right in that with no beam-splitting polarization shouldn't be a problem." CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:19:49.877" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13655" PostId="9454" Text="So I was missing the working distance in my comparison. Thanks for the answer. The tamron seams nice ! I'll take a look." CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:25:48.450" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="13656" PostId="9470" Text="Seconded.  I got the first set of 9 DVDs for Christmas (a little present from me to me), and it is very good.  Definitely worth the (very reasonable) price.  " CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:42:54.977" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="13657" PostId="9530" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1520/lens-review-sites which lists Nikon and general-purpose lens review sites." CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:30:23.763" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13658" PostId="9527" Text="@Guffa That's Wikipedia for you, the article seems to contradict itself on the subject: *&quot;This method is implemented by rolling (moving) the shutter across the exposable image area instead of exposing the image area all at the same time (the shutter could be either mechanical or electronic). The advantage of this method is that the image sensor can continue to gather photons during the acquisition process, thus increasing sensitivity.&quot;* How can the image sensor continue to gather photons using a mechanical rolling shutter?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:43:18.560" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13660" PostId="9524" Text="Doesn't it? see my comment on your answer!" CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:46:58.993" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13661" PostId="9534" Score="4" Text="+1 for *another Nikon photographer* - agreed!" CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:56:39.030" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="13662" PostId="9527" Text="n.b. I didn't downvote you, the rest of your answer contains useful info, despite a difference of opinion of the definition of rolling..." CreationDate="2011-03-07T16:59:12.900" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13663" PostId="9490" Text="I don't agree that you can set «unpolarized» and «circularly polarized» equal. 3D video in cinemas works with circularly polarized light, left hand side polarized for the left eye, right hand side for the right eye (or also swapped), and a «reversed» polarizer converts the circularly polarized light back to linear polarized light and either blocks or passes the light." CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:00:32.143" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13664" PostId="9530" Score="1" Text="Also keep in mind that _some_ of those questions will be completely on topic _here_." CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:08:35.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13665" PostId="9531" Text="When you say &quot;canvas&quot; are you referring to a painting? If so, is it a watercolour, oil painting, or something else? " CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:33:23.140" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="13666" PostId="9531" Score="1" Text="This is kind of broad. You might get better answers with a more specific question. Some of the specifics _are_ answered by other questions here, in fact. For lighting: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8850/how-should-i-light-2d-artwork-in-a-makeshift-studio-what-lighting-products-do-i and for lenses http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7297/lens-for-shooting-paintings-with-canon-550d (although the last tilts towards-canon-specific)." CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:36:29.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13667" PostId="9533" Score="4" Text="Given the sparse evidence presented it is impossible to draw useful conclusions. Almost ALL lenses are somewhat softer at maximum aperture." CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:37:09.623" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13668" PostId="562" Text="-1: I'm with @jextee and @mattdm on this.  I've got to downvote until it's fixed; the answer is misleading with the example given." CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:24:58.490" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="13669" PostId="7237" Text="@robert pretend it's a mirror and you are trying to reflect the light into your camera." CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:26:14.240" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13670" PostId="9535" Text="I think it depends on whether you are trying to effectively reproduce the detail in the photo or the detail _of_ the photo (including, for example, resolving the film grain itself)." CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:30:39.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13671" PostId="9474" Text="It's standard gramatical markup thinking really, nothing special about stack exchange. Crawlers like google and yahoo understand blockquote, strong, and emphasis tags. They have an internet wide agreed upon meaning that you're ignoring because you want the side effect rendering difference." CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:34:41.920" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13672" PostId="9531" Text="Maynard Case &gt; yes I was refering to a painting." CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:43:30.600" UserId="4188" />
  <row Id="13673" PostId="9492" Text="I think you should post the *original* JPEG file produced by the camera in order to get useful advice. Oversharpening might be produced by the tool that you used to scale down the image." CreationDate="2011-03-07T20:06:57.767" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13674" PostId="9541" Score="1" Text="Looks to be a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12/best-way-to-clean-the-sensor-on-a-digital-slr" CreationDate="2011-03-07T20:08:13.977" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13675" PostId="9543" Score="1" Text="Are higher numbers better?  Are the numbers on a linear scale, so e.g. the Canon's 2476 is 16% ((2476-2075)/2476) better/worse than the Sigma's 2075?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T20:39:20.343" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13676" PostId="9543" Score="1" Text="Good reply. We need more thoughtful replies like this based on solid evidence. @Drewbenn, note that photozone rate anything above 1650 as Very Good and above 1950 as Excellent. So both the numbers you quote are Excellent. The main overall conclusion from the photozone review is that the Sigma lens is soft in the corners at both 18mm and F2.8" CreationDate="2011-03-07T20:50:11.037" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13677" PostId="9462" Text="Whew, I need to bookmark this and put the Minkowski sum on the to-read-list for calmer times :) And, thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-07T20:52:28.657" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13678" PostId="9549" Score="1" Text="This can really be summed up as &quot;What size hole do I use to make differently shaped bokeh?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-07T21:43:23.700" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13679" PostId="9550" Text="(This in case of f/1.8 -&gt; I'm dslr-filming) Thanks for that! I think that pretty much sums it all up there. Correct if me I'm wrong, but, if you check how much &quot;surface area&quot; takes away from the original (focal length/1.8)-circle, you can also effectively calculate the light sensitivity decrease you should be expecting?" CreationDate="2011-03-07T21:54:28.690" UserId="4192" />
  <row Id="13680" PostId="9550" Text="1.8 is only if you're filming with the aperture wide open.  If you close it at all, its different." CreationDate="2011-03-07T21:55:35.900" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13681" PostId="9550" Text="Light sensitivity is probably the wrong word here, but by calculating the difference in the area before and after, you can determine the percentage of light lost, yes." CreationDate="2011-03-07T21:57:12.590" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13682" PostId="9550" Text="Be warned, you may be easily fooled when looking through the viewfinder about the bokeh, the lens hasn't stopped down yet (if you're not shooting wide open)." CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:01:49.183" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13683" PostId="9550" Text="For the movie I'm going to shoot, I'd need a very shallow DOF pretty much constantly. Since I'm also going to stay in 1/30-1/50 zone, I'll need a some ND filters as well ;) But most of the scenes would be rather dark. Thanks for the help, rfusca!" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:06:00.233" UserId="4192" />
  <row Id="13684" PostId="9541" Score="2" Text="I don't think this is a duplicate, because it asking whether he should clean the sensor himself or get it professional cleaned, a debate I am dealing with now. The other question only deals with how to clean the sensor yourself. The answers in the other question do address this debate, even if it wasn't asked, though. I personally would like to see this question answered as-is in more detail. " CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:34:31.407" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="13685" PostId="9544" Score="1" Text="A *very large* grain of salt.  Some of the stuff he just flat out makes up (and will say so!).  I'd vote this up if it didn't have KR in it." CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:49:22.463" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13686" PostId="9549" Text="If you mean what dimensions as in what ratio of width to height for the ellipse, you could calculate it if you knew what film aspect ratio and final aspect ratio the anamorphic lens was designed for. Or you could just take a screenshot from a film and measure it in photoshop!" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:56:29.070" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13687" PostId="9497" Text="@jukka-suomela: how to replicate Adobe Camera Raw, and/or how to replicate the Camera's own preview.  More in [my answer](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9497/why-is-aperture-changing-the-color-of-my-raw-photos/9548#9548).  @joel-spolsky: Welcome to Photo.SE!  Thank you for all that you've done for the dev community, and now many other communities as well!  :)" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:24:56.050" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13688" PostId="9543" Text="@labnut, I'm not sure you can compare the numbers across cameras quite like that. If you look at multiple reviews, you will find that the rating scale varies. In the Tamron review, anything above 1850 is Excellent. " CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:31:17.973" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="13689" PostId="9535" Text="The most resolution I typically use is for the art prints, which I scan in at 600dpi.  I was told that was a good setting for archiving prints.  What do you mean by &quot;only good for about 300dp&quot;?  I'm just curious, but does that mean anything above that will result in a lower quality scanned photo?  Thanks for the help!" CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:40:25.907" UserId="4187" />
  <row Id="13690" PostId="9535" Score="1" Text="@Fauxliia: Scanning at higher resolution won't reduce the quality, but it may waste disk space without giving any improvement." CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:49:43.367" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13691" PostId="9543" Score="1" Text="In fact, the site specifically cautions that you can't compare across the numbers across camera systems. The Tamron review is on Canon APS-C, and therefore can only be compared to the Canon lens; likewise, the Sigma numbers are from that lens on the Nikon system, and on this chart can only be compared with the Nikon lens." CreationDate="2011-03-07T23:51:07.377" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13692" PostId="9541" Score="1" Text="Not an exact duplicate because the other question is regarding a Canon, where the camera in this question has a self-cleaning function, and my answer below links to an article specifically on cleaning Nikon sensors.  Also the Canon question starts from the point where a rocket blower hasn't dislodged the dust, where it's not clear in this question if the OP has tried anything yet." CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:05:54.147" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="13693" PostId="9527" Text="Wikipedia likes to contradict itself sometimes.  See also the article on the focal plane shutter which at no point refers to it as a &quot;rolling shutter&quot; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal-plane_shutter - amusingly they even include the same helicopter image as an example of a focal plane shutter effect.  I think, and this is what I personally feel, that it's a common misconception that that is what a &quot;rolling shutter&quot; is." CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:14:42.553" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13694" PostId="1665" Text="The Sigma 10-20 F/4-5.6 I had vignetted so badly I returned it after trying 3 more samples. My advice is to stay away from that lens, the 12-24mm F/4 does much better." CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:35:36.450" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13695" PostId="1712" Text="The 14-24mm is an amazing lens. It was a loan from Nikon (along with a D3) and I was sad to return it :( Highly recommended, I've never seen such an ultra-wide maintain such optical quality." CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:37:15.683" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13696" PostId="9533" Score="1" Text="Yes, all lenses are softer wide open but many Sigma zoom (generally the wider ones) become *extremely soft* at the 2.8 end. So much that after deleting my first images taken at 2.8, I never shot at that aperture again. At F/4 is became perfectly acceptable and F/5.6 is rather sharp." CreationDate="2011-03-08T00:40:01.873" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13697" PostId="9535" Text="Thanks Jerry.  The main reason I'm looking to upgrade is that some of the newer models (V30/V33) are a lot smaller than my 2400.  I use the scanner all the time, and it's kind of this giant mound on my desk.  Also, I've heard the new LED powered scanners are a lot faster." CreationDate="2011-03-08T01:46:59.863" UserId="4187" />
  <row Id="13698" PostId="9535" Text="@Fauxlivia: Ah, now those sound like practical reasons to upgrade." CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:35:55.493" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13699" PostId="9503" Text="I disagree with the statement made about the manufacturer's supplied converter is always best. I have from experience found that Adobe Camera Raw to be much better than the DPP software for my Canon. I have gotten much better results to the point that I have removed DPP altogether from my computers." CreationDate="2011-03-08T03:45:43.930" UserId="1901" />
  <row Id="13700" PostId="9503" Score="1" Text="I would have to agree that Adobe Camera Raw produces better results than DPP, especially with its recent updates. RAW processing is largely a matter of taste, more than anything. If you prefer the output of DPP, all the more power to you, however there is really nothing to state that DPP produces the &quot;correct&quot; output. I look at processing RAW like processing film...you can choose how to process film, and use the chemicals that you prefer to produce the kind of look and feel you want in your pictures, but using the chemicals specifically designed for a film doesn't mean then are more correct." CreationDate="2011-03-08T04:27:16.663" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13701" PostId="9503" Text="Well, I never tried Adobe Camera Raw, but after installing it and using, I too think its slightly better (in terms of colors and sharpness). So, Yes, I take my words back.&#xA;I've edited my post, thank you guys." CreationDate="2011-03-08T05:35:55.473" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="13702" PostId="9536" Text="has DPR lost its anti-Nikon (or maybe extreme pro-Cannon is a better term) bias yet? " CreationDate="2011-03-08T06:59:47.737" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13703" PostId="9519" Text="Hi Thomas, thanks. I wasn't sure so I'm glad I asked. Now I'm a proud owner of an EOS7D." CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:02:25.860" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="13704" PostId="9506" Text="Jay, Jerry, John, Matt, Mattdm, and Thomas, many thanks for sharing your thoughts and helping me feel more confident about my buying decision. As a first time visitor (and now loyal reader) to this forum, you guys rock. I'm looking forward to capturing memorable moments with my EOS7D.  8)" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:04:41.613" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="13705" PostId="1397" Text="@mattdm: So it like rotates polarization of the light? Because if it did another &quot;round&quot; of polarization, it would further reduce light transmission, wouldn't it?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T10:03:53.517" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="13706" PostId="9543" Text="@mattdm Good point, that sensors of different systems have slightly different sensor heights, but all 5 of them are APS-C, so the order of magnitude is the same. If we take PH(Canon 350D)=14.8, PH(Nikon D200)=15.8, PH(Pentax K10D)=15.7mm, then correction coefficients are 1.068x (Canon), 1x (Nikon) and 1.006 (Pentax)." CreationDate="2011-03-08T10:41:07.893" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="13707" PostId="9543" Text="@mattdm, photozone have in fact tested both the Sigma and Tamron lenses on the same camera, making the results strictly comparable. See my reply for the details." CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:00:11.573" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13708" PostId="9543" Text="@labnut — yeah, but the numbers in the chart weren't from that." CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:31:04.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13709" PostId="9543" Text="@jetxee — take a look at the numbers from the Nikon and Canon versions of the Tamron lens tests. Either there's significant sample and/or testing variation, or else it's more complicated than that simple corrective factor." CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:35:10.487" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13710" PostId="9541" Score="3" Text="I've moved the self/pro question to the subject, so it's more clearly separate from the existing question (question number twelve on the site!). I've also removed the Nikon and model-specific tags, since the answer is similar across many models and brands. (@MikeW, it's useful to know that this model has a self-cleaning function, but most cameras do these days.)" CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:40:48.063" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13711" PostId="55" Text="A good rocket blower will have an intake filter to keep out dust. In practical experience, they're very effective." CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:42:58.297" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13712" PostId="1397" Score="1" Text="@che: yeah, there's a quarter-wave plate which transforms the polarization of the light wave into a sort of helix shape. It's not another filter layer, so there's no more light loss (other than the addition of more optics)." CreationDate="2011-03-08T12:46:50.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13713" PostId="9543" Text="@mattdm, I have used the correct numbers but reach the same conclusions that @jetxee does. So his numbers tell the right story. Often we need to make comparisons  even when the conditions are not strictly the same. So we draw the best conclusions we can and note the caveats. Of course, on a site like this, we must always strive for accuracy, so comments like yours are very welcome." CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:00:01.890" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13714" PostId="9543" Score="1" Text="@mattdm and @jetxee, another cause of variation is the AA filter. There are differences between Nikon, Pentax and Canon in the way they use an AA filter." CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:10:24.030" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13715" PostId="9562" Text="Given the history of your camera, I would agree with jwenting." CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:30:18.873" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13716" PostId="9572" Text="Oops, in my table I give a focal length of 23mm when it is in fact 24 mm." CreationDate="2011-03-08T13:37:38.100" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13717" PostId="9567" Text="I'm going to post this as a comment, as well in my answer. I think you might be better off simply trying to go through traditional publishers. Self publishing for the most part is a pipe dream, don't count on making a profit anytime soon." CreationDate="2011-03-08T14:32:19.313" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="13718" PostId="9576" Text="Very interesting. I looked at their site but couldn't find pricing information on their book:it product. Any idea what they charge?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:50:39.273" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13719" PostId="9569" Text="Blurb is good but their pricing is outrageous. I will lose money based on what they would charge for a 100 page photo book." CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:51:32.297" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13720" PostId="9570" Text="Blurb is good but their pricing is outrageous. I will lose money based on what they would charge for a 100 page photo book. Blurb works when you're selling one photobook to a client for $500. But when I'm selling 5,000 books for $50 it doesn't help." CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:52:30.130" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13721" PostId="9571" Text="They offer custom quotes, which for a run of 5,000 might get their pricing close, but I'm betting it will still be well over my requirement of less than $25/per book, with each book being 100 pages." CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:54:20.953" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13722" PostId="9567" Text="@personartphoto Yeah, I hear you. I don't know who the traditional publishers are or how to find them. Any ideas?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T15:55:04.837" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13723" PostId="9573" Text="This is helpful thanks. I'm going to see if I can actually find some traditional publishers who are willing to do small runs for individuals like myself. I think the most beneficial answer to this question would be a short list of publishers that can meet my criteria of 1-5k books at a price of $25 or less per book. " CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:12:41.937" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13724" PostId="9567" Text="I have contacted several self-publishers to determine pricing. I will update this question when I hear back. Hopefully I can soon provide a list of publishers that meet my criteria." CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:29:47.133" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13725" PostId="9573" Text="A traditional publisher isn't going to print for you necessarily, but will print for larger retail publication. If you already have a built in buyer, then feel free to use a vanity publisher, otherwise, go with a traditional publisher, and let them decide how many to print." CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:29:53.863" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="13726" PostId="9567" Text="I suggest you take a look at similar books, perhaps through Amazon or similar book store, and find the publishers. Find their websites, find their acceptance criteria, and summit your work." CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:37:15.290" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="13727" PostId="6296" Text="On the update: &quot;Similar specs&quot; is kind of pushing it, don't you think? Samyang's lens is manual focus, with a totally different design. No doubt there's less of a markup, but, still, they don't really look similar even on paper. I doubt Nikon is concerned. (And I bet they Sanyang doesn't have a five year warranty.)" CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:43:10.053" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13728" PostId="9567" Text="the writers stackexchange may have some advice on publishing: http://writers.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:46:21.170" UserId="2746" />
  <row Id="13729" PostId="9576" Text="@bperdue - See edit." CreationDate="2011-03-08T17:27:51.790" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13730" PostId="9574" Text="How much do professional cleanings generally cost (in the USA)? I'd like to weigh the option of self-cleaning against professional cleaning. At some point, spending a significant % of the value of a 250 dollar camera on regular professional cleanings may not be worth it to me. " CreationDate="2011-03-08T17:49:18.657" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="13731" PostId="9499" Text="@John Cavan: There's a 5000mm??? Three zeroes?? Oh my, I need to rent one sometime for some video footage. The effects they got with a 1200mm they used in THX1138 (shot on smaller film than, say, a 5DmkII sensor) were really really cool.  I had no idea Canon went that high though... Or is it 3rd party?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:20:57.593" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13732" PostId="6296" Text="Sure, the design is different-- but will the final results be that much different?  Like I said, I'll wait until I see the reviews.  So maybe the better comparison is with the Zeiss 35mm f/2?  Sure, they're not considered to be in the same league (everyone loves a Zeiss!) but again, how much does the name cost?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:24:14.407" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="13733" PostId="9499" Text="P.S. Canon's &quot;lens lineup&quot; shows an 800/5.6 as their longest lens. They have some 500s, did you mean that? Or is there something else you're talking about? I suppose there's always the option of adapters for telescopes and such... ?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:32:38.457" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13734" PostId="9574" Score="1" Text="I'm in Canada where its free or about $25, depending where go. The Canon service center does it for free (officially not covered by warranty but done as a courtesy) and some stores if you bought your camera there (maybe there is a limit). Otherwise, they charge a flat fee. ...Then again, you can buy a new camera each time you reach 10 dust spots ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:40:57.640" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13735" PostId="9499" Text="@lindes - Oh yeah it's a Canon, they only made a few and they're enormous... There was a copy on eBay at one point, but long since removed. I doubt it ever sold, the price tag was a small fortune, though I don't remember if was a mirror lens or not, though I think it wasn't." CreationDate="2011-03-08T19:46:48.873" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13736" PostId="6256" Score="1" Text="Get the 50mm f/1.4G for $350. It has the same aperture as the $2,000 35mm but at a fraction of the cost. A little longer focal length but still short enough for your D7000." CreationDate="2011-03-08T20:46:45.617" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13737" PostId="9567" Text="Thanks @tom, I'll check it out." CreationDate="2011-03-08T20:50:00.250" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13738" PostId="9528" Text="+1 Great explanation, thank you.  I've inserted the referenced images from wikipedia, I hope you don't mind." CreationDate="2011-03-08T22:42:26.907" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="13739" PostId="9584" Score="3" Text="I know you said no &quot;fix it in post&quot; answers, but it is worth noting that this is something which can be corrected for reasonably well in RAW processing with a lens-specific profile. Some cameras will even do this as part of their in-camera jpeg conversion." CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:42:05.873" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13740" PostId="9584" Score="2" Text="Wait, hold on, how is this not an exact duplicate of the question you link to? Or at least an update, asking for techniques to _reduce_ where it can't be avoided?" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:43:21.083" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13741" PostId="9585" Score="5" Text="There's a proposal for a Video/Film production stack exchange site. http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production. In the meantime, I suggest that http://superuser.com/ is _probably_ the best fit." CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:46:26.103" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13742" PostId="9584" Text="possible duplicate of [How do I avoid getting any chromatic aberration in my photographs?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/91/how-do-i-avoid-getting-any-chromatic-aberration-in-my-photographs)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:01:46.420" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13743" PostId="9584" Text="@mattdm &amp; @Jay Lance Photography - its sort of a reformulation and call for specific solutions, when taking the picture. i don't really think this is noise." CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:36:26.570" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13744" PostId="9586" Text="these are sort of the answers that i was hoping for! i've thought about the contrast/composition, but i'm sort of hoping to hear about more techniques, and spark some discussion. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T01:40:04.210" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="13745" PostId="9528" Text="Yep that's good, thanks.  In case people are wondering, the diagrams show the shutters moving horizontally whereas modern cameras seem to have vertical shutters.  Same effect though." CreationDate="2011-03-09T02:04:01.537" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13746" PostId="9592" Text="What sorts of environments do you plan to be working in (night?  day?  handheld?  tripod?  etc).  What sorts of subjects will you be aiming for?" CreationDate="2011-03-09T03:59:21.937" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13747" PostId="9592" Text="@ahockley added those in the edit" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:12:09.933" UserId="4209" />
  <row Id="13748" PostId="9590" Text="Despite of the build quality, 50mm f1.4 isn't an L lens for sure :-) " CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:57:03.990" UserId="2607" />
  <row Id="13749" PostId="9592" Text="I don't know about these lenses specifically, but I would consider VR essential for hand holding at that focal length. I wouldn't buy the Sigma lens, even for half the price. " CreationDate="2011-03-09T05:02:18.277" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="13750" PostId="9588" Score="1" Text="The &quot;L&quot; lenses are designed to take a lot of abuse, whether it's physical punishment, dealing with weather or heat and cold. Mine have been in rain, many days of 115F+ heat, lots of dust, been bounced off fences and posts and work really well still. The consumer grade lenses I've had, even after being babied, were in worse shape. They felt loose and sloppy after a couple years. I'm not faulting the consumer lenses, they're not designed to handle the same use and are good value for the money unless you need something that can be abused and continue to work." CreationDate="2011-03-09T05:56:37.500" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13751" PostId="3411" Text="Another vote for Bibble. Been using it for years (albeit on Windows, not Linux) and it's well worth the money (did I mention the free upgrade from 4 to 5 I got?)." CreationDate="2011-03-09T06:11:35.370" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13752" PostId="5562" Score="1" Text="+1 for the nice pictures!" CreationDate="2011-03-09T06:15:13.680" UserId="3393" />
  <row Id="13753" PostId="9582" Text="I don't know what you mean by &quot;hard infinity-focus stop&quot;...you lose infinity focus (focus of anything thats not close really) if you mean that.  When you're freelensing I can't see how brand matters, but I wouldn't go out and buy a Canon lens with your Nikon camera just for freelensing (unless you're made of money - in which case I could use a Sigma 200-500mm f/2.8 ;) ).  Additionally, you can always manually trip the little lever on your mount to open your aperture on a Nikon G lens." CreationDate="2011-03-09T07:24:23.733" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13754" PostId="9586" Text="Glad I could help... but if you want more discussion you shouldn't accept answers so quickly ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:16:20.093" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13755" PostId="9589" Score="1" Text="Weather sealing is certainly not a must for an L lens. Some are sealed, yes, but a lot are not." CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:35:09.700" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13756" PostId="7573" Text="Good viewer, thinks for the tip" CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:51:09.413" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13757" PostId="9488" Text="Wow... Thanks guys. Amazing answers and I thank you all for taking the time to enlighten me. Looks like I will be out buying new filter this weekend with a much better understanding. Along that line, apart from Hoya which I have used before would anyone care to comment on Marumi filters? I have read some good things about them and they are so much cheaper. Up to the $50 mark what would be a great circular polarizer... Thanks once again, you guys are a real help. " CreationDate="2011-03-07T06:05:57.100" UserId="4185" />
  <row Id="13758" PostId="9499" Text="The 800mm is just their longest current model. The 1200mm was, I think, the longest refractor that was ever part of the standard catalogue, and it was *not* a telephoto lens -- it was a little longer physically than it was optically even with the hood retracted -- and nearly useless due to atmospheric shimmering (in even coolish temperatures, your subject would dance around the finder, making framing and focusing difficult). I had the Minolta 1600mm f/11, and it was only really good for shooting the moon; daylight shooting was like a '60s television acid trip." CreationDate="2011-03-09T09:41:35.480" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13759" PostId="9581" Text="Reversing the lens should make infinity focus a possibility, provided that the front element isn't too deeply recessed into the barrel. Since the rear element is now the front element, though, exposure becomes a merry guessing game -- but isn't that supposed to be part of the fun?" CreationDate="2011-03-09T09:48:38.360" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13760" PostId="9591" Score="1" Text="It's not an L unless it comes with a hood and little bag! " CreationDate="2011-03-09T09:48:57.657" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13761" PostId="9591" Text="I came here to post this same thing. Fits my experience exactly." CreationDate="2011-03-09T10:39:43.443" UserId="679" />
  <row Id="13762" PostId="9384" Score="1" Text="8gb has made a big difference, I've been enjoying Aperture a lot more since upgrading." CreationDate="2011-03-09T14:43:48.777" UserId="3882" />
  <row Id="13763" PostId="7410" Text="And as @cryovac mentioned Photoshop—well, [Photoshop's B&amp;W conversion options](http://i.imgur.com/zwiT7.png) are probably more thorough than camera's B&amp;W settings." CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:07:56.660" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="13764" PostId="22" Text="Good lens cap tethers also come of a piece that goes on the neck strap which you can lock the cap too, so that it does not dangle at all. What's left is a small extra cord that goes along your neck-strap." CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:11:16.867" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13765" PostId="9606" Score="3" Text="*(ha, your question made me look like your avatar)* … Does the hidden &quot;layer&quot; look like the JPG's thumbnail? Could the software you're using first show the thumbnail while it is loading the real image?" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:20:45.707" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="13766" PostId="9605" Text="You always get two streaks per edge, it just that with an even number of edges streaks from parallel edges overlap and constructively interfere. This means the aperture has exactly six blades in this instance, however you wouldn't be able to tell the difference easily between a 5 and 10 blade aperture." CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:21:14.143" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13769" PostId="9605" Text="ps good point about the starburst filter, I used to have one of those in the film days. " CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:22:57.933" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13770" PostId="9605" Score="1" Text="You're right, I've had it wrong: I didn't mean a multiple of six blades, but actually an even fraction. Theoretically, three blades would also produce six streaks, but I don't know any lenses with three aperture blades." CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:25:54.807" UserId="4223" />
  <row Id="13771" PostId="9601" Score="3" Text="Spot on!  Interestingly, when there are an odd number of blades, the star has double the points - because the diffraction goes in both directions.  Ie, 6 blades = 6 point star, 7 blades = 14 point star, 8 blades = 8 point star, etc." CreationDate="2011-03-09T16:11:28.527" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13772" PostId="9598" Score="1" Text="I don't know that you'd technically call this lens flare as it's caused by diffraction at the edge of the aperture blades." CreationDate="2011-03-09T16:12:18.743" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13773" PostId="9603" Score="3" Text="Wow that's amazing that someone identified and found a lens (type) based on a basic hand drawing!  I'm impressed." CreationDate="2011-03-09T16:17:28.150" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13774" PostId="9597" Score="1" Text="This question is also answered, with additional illustrations and explanations of the phenomenon, at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6605/1356 ." CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:26:11.313" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13775" PostId="9601" Score="2" Text="@Thomas Actually, 6 blades = 12 point star, but the points come in overlapping pairs.  Each blade throws points to both sides but the blades come in parallel sets.  I'm sure that a careful measurement would show the points for the even-bladed apertures are exactly twice as bright as the points for the odd-bladed apertures." CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:28:26.567" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13776" PostId="5193" Text="Have a &quot;green bent angle thing&quot; by popular demand." CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:29:01.350" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13777" PostId="9611" Score="1" Text="Okay, so this has more to do with the camera than with the lens?" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:34:11.600" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13778" PostId="9610" Score="5" Text="It's amazing how many terms I use without even thinking that to a layman would sound like nonsense!" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:34:41.117" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13779" PostId="9611" Score="3" Text="Depends on what you mean by &quot;has more to do&quot;. You control the stopping down with the camera (at least on modern cameras/lenses), but the action primarily effects the lens." CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:37:45.390" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13780" PostId="9601" Text="I've edited the answer in an attempt to be unambiguous regarding blades and points!" CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:39:01.377" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13781" PostId="9610" Text="@Matt: Hey, I work in software development. I'm used to &quot;strange terms&quot; on a regular basis. (Though usually *our* strange terms are TLAs, ETLAs, or EETLAs) (Three letter acronym, extended three letter acronym, expanded extended three letter acronym)...." CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:41:15.697" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13782" PostId="9611" Score="1" Text="The aperture blades are part of the lens (if you have a DSLR, switch to Aperture-priority (Av) mode, set to something like f/8, hold down your Depth of Field Preview button, and look at the front of the lens: you will be able to see the aperture blades forming a circle).  So it has to do with the lens, not the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-09T17:42:18.777" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13783" PostId="9611" Score="2" Text="In my Pentax Auto110, the aperture stop is part of the camera body, not the tiny interchangeable lenses. (The same iris also serves as the shutter!)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:00:26.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13784" PostId="7410" Text="At least in my camera, one can fine-tune the &quot;candy&quot; the black and white conversion gives, by changing between one of half a dozen &quot;color filters&quot;, by changing the contrast (separately for shadows/highlights if you want), and etc. This is definitely not as much control as mixing the channels carefully by hand after the fact, but isn't quite grabbing sight-unseen either." CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:03:44.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13785" PostId="9612" Text="@mattdm: Yay, pedantry!" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:08:19.300" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13786" PostId="9612" Score="1" Text="@Billy ONeal — just trying to help. I didn't think it warranted a comment. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:11:12.423" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13787" PostId="9612" Text="@mattdm: Lol -- only reason I mentioned it is that you [proved me wrong](http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/13148/why-is-there-a-distinction-between-its-and-its) :)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:15:38.200" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13788" PostId="9603" Text="Not as impressed as I am." CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:19:35.660" UserId="730" />
  <row Id="13789" PostId="9610" Text="You mean, like Four Letter TLAs?? ;-)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:42:02.153" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13790" PostId="7410" Text="The &quot;free&quot; part of your analogy is really kind of irrelevant. " CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:45:26.090" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13791" PostId="9603" Score="2" Text="I think it's rather worrisome and indicates some major deficiencies in parts of my life that ought to have seemed more important..." CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:46:54.370" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13792" PostId="9589" Text="@Staale - My fault, it seems some of the older L lenses were not weather sealed and many weren't as well built as they are now (Canon probably wishes they weren't L anymore!). Are all new L lenses weather sealed? " CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:49:28.003" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="13793" PostId="9610" Text="@ysap: Yup. TLA is a TLA. ETLA is an ETLA. EETLA is an EETLA :)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:51:15.173" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13794" PostId="9608" Text="+1 for the idea of abusing the interleaved format (I believe progressive should display the whole image in a linear manner, am I correct?). However, the caching is not the only thing that may affect the apparent result. If the viewer is &quot;stupid&quot; enough, then subsampling the image (for reducing its size for display) can actually eliminate the frame altogether (aliasing)." CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:51:28.513" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13795" PostId="9601" Text="Could you describe what you mean by &quot;unique orientations&quot;? I think I may have figured it out based on the comments, but I'm notcertain. " CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:17:10.737" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13796" PostId="9499" Text="@John Cavan: wow. I'd heard of the 1200, I think, but not a 5000. Do you by chance have any additional info? My searches so far seem mostly to turn up telescopes with canon cameras mounted to them. " CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:31:49.110" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13797" PostId="9499" Text="@lindes - I tried to find it yesterday without much luck and realized my mistake, it's 5200mm... :) See here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRq18WpQZC0" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:36:28.557" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13798" PostId="9499" Text="@Stan Rogers: how does it work for a 1200mm lens to *not* be telephoto?? Unless we're talking about giant (what would it have to be, 30x40&quot;?) film...??? But then I presume it wouldn't be canon, so... ?  Oh! I see... [Telephoto](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephoto_lens) means something specific that's not what I thought it meant (first paragraph). Hmm, weird. So it was a long (physically) lens, longer than 1200mm. Right? Is that what you mean by that?" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:42:09.763" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13799" PostId="9499" Text="@John Cavan: aha! Wow. Thank you. That doesn't look like an EF mount, though... So does it really count?? ;). (Wow.)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:49:39.730" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13800" PostId="9589" Text="Rather the opposite actually. Older lenses were a lot more impressively built than the plastic-fantastic L's they release these days. Not that the plastic is actually inferior, quite the opposite I suspect, bu there is something about the heft and feel of an all-metal lens that is a thing of joy. I had an old 20-35 f/2.8L once, about 1990 vintage, it made the 17-40 and 16-35s I have had since seem rather pathetic. And the 80-200 f/2.8L of about the same age is something you could kill a charging bull with, and then photograph the corpse afterwards." CreationDate="2011-03-09T20:21:42.750" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13801" PostId="9589" Text="As for weather sealing... some L's have it, some not. The very oldest ones like the ones I mention do not. But even the newest ones do not universally have it." CreationDate="2011-03-09T20:22:28.040" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13802" PostId="9499" Text="@lindes - Just get an FD to EF adapter, though it would be funny if that resulted in some additional magnification..." CreationDate="2011-03-09T20:58:14.050" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13803" PostId="9619" Score="1" Text="Filenames aren't accurate since depending on how the camera is configured the filenames might either roll over or automatically reset each time a new card/folder begins." CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:09:43.567" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13804" PostId="9620" Score="3" Text="Just so you know &quot;targeted at digital images sensors&quot; and &quot;aren't full frame on 35mm film&quot; aren't really mutually exclusive.  There are full frame digital sensors." CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:17:22.407" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13805" PostId="9620" Score="2" Text="Your measuring stick isn't going to be much help, because depth of field at a certain focus distance is going to be the same at the same aperture and focal length regardless of lens." CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:19:47.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13806" PostId="9619" Score="1" Text="Sure. I was just commenting that the given number was more like 42 thousand than 4 million and trying to explain the structure of filename (perhaps someone might use it).  However, if the camera was set to roll over on each card change, I doubt it would reach the given filename. Of course, when buying used camera, I would not relay on this number!" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:26:45.807" UserId="4245" />
  <row Id="13807" PostId="7407" Score="1" Text="The S95 has a RAW mode.  You are assuming this has been bypassed in favor of in-camera JPEG compression, right?" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:29:06.327" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13808" PostId="9620" Text="Shouldn't Depth of field should vary from one lens construction to another. I agree that for a single piece of glass type lens depth of field is determined by aperture and focal length, but once there are multiple pieces of glass involved I am pretty sure that is no longer true." CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:31:40.843" UserId="2451" />
  <row Id="13809" PostId="8725" Text="possible duplicate of [Is depth of field and bokeh influenced by distance to the subject?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8451/is-depth-of-field-and-bokeh-influenced-by-distance-to-the-subject)" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:43:11.130" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13810" PostId="9620" Score="2" Text="In short the answer is &quot;nope, doesn't matter&quot;. But I've gone ahead and made that be its own question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9624/what-exactly-determines-depth-of-field" CreationDate="2011-03-09T21:53:51.603" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13811" PostId="9624" Score="1" Text="Don't have time to answer this now, but for anyone brave enough to attempt it - first establish a consistent definition of Depth of Field and second make sure you state what variables are changing and what is kept constant when talking about the factors which affect DoF." CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:37:14.833" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13812" PostId="9617" Score="2" Text="The term [point spread function](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point_spread_function) might help finding such software." CreationDate="2011-03-09T22:56:01.747" UserId="3054" />
  <row Id="13814" PostId="9613" Score="1" Text="Could you provide some more detail? Perhaps some step-by-step instructions, for those who are not intimately familiar with Lightroom? " CreationDate="2011-03-10T00:09:32.970" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13815" PostId="9622" Score="2" Text="You might want to provide some more information, and possibly some links to a review or two that back up that assertion." CreationDate="2011-03-10T00:10:27.167" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13816" PostId="9601" Text="@whuber it's true that the 6 points of the star would be effectively twice as bright, but that doesn't make it a 12 point star in my book." CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:00:20.963" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13817" PostId="9601" Score="2" Text="@lindes, it means that when there is an even number of blades, the edge of every blade faces in the same direction as the edge of the blade opposite, so for example when there are six edges there are only 3 unique orientations, with every two opposite blades sharing the same orientation." CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:00:42.633" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13818" PostId="9631" Text="Try uploading the image to http://imgur.com/ then posting the link" CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:13:06.993" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13819" PostId="9631" Text="Thank you. Here is a link to the set up http://imgur.com/FaAJZ" CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:16:19.087" UserId="4248" />
  <row Id="13820" PostId="9601" Text="@thomas I was being a little tongue-in-cheek.  But the mental image of the six points really being a twelve-pointed star, with the points doubled, makes the pattern you noted--(6,6), (7,14), (8,8), (9,18), etc--intuitive.  Just trying to help..." CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:25:40.867" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="13821" PostId="9601" Text="@whuber no problem" CreationDate="2011-03-10T01:57:06.600" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13822" PostId="47" Text="A f/1.4 lens at f/1.8 is not necessarily going to be sharper than an f/1.8 wide open.  I'd say that it may often be the opposite.  Let's say the lenses are a *similar price* (unlikely in practice) - the f/1.4 will probably be less sharp at f/1.8 than an f/1.8 lens.  Only when it's a fairly cheap f/1.8 lens (like the Canon) compared to a more expensive f/1.4 would I expect the f/1.4 to be sharper at the same, widish aperture.  To put it another way, making an ultra-fast lens involves more comprimises than just adding a new, less sharp f-stop to the bottom.  It affects your other apertures too." CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:09:13.110" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13823" PostId="9634" Score="2" Text="Actually, I disagree slightly. For me, the point is not so much to &quot;decide my own exposure&quot;, the camera could get me a perfectly decent exposure on its own 95% of the time, but rather to ensure a consistent exposure from shot to shot taken in the same conditions. Makes post-processing the RAW files in Lightroom ever so much easier I find :)&#xA;&#xA;If you &quot;chase the meter&quot;, changing exposure until the needle is dead-center on the meter, you are doing exactly the same as the camera does in automatic mode... no better, no worse. You have to use EV compensation account for light or dark in auto too." CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:23:45.987" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13824" PostId="9634" Text="@Staale - Your first point is good, that is why I said in *some cases there is a reason*, panoramas came to mind. The second point, *no better, no worse* requires more effort to do the same, so IMO it is at least slightly worse. Then again, on my Pentax DSLRs I just need to press the green button once :)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:40:23.350" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13825" PostId="9634" Text="Yep. The &quot;no better, no worse&quot; bit was simply to point out that there is no mystery to the operation of the light-meter in manual mode - it is essentially exactly what the camera is doing all the time, except that you are twirling the wheels by yourself instead of leaving it to the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-10T03:28:50.597" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13827" PostId="47" Text="Just to be clear, as @Reid says below, 1.4 is 2/3rd of a stop bigger than 1.8. " CreationDate="2011-03-10T03:57:00.387" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13828" PostId="9582" Text="&quot;Hard infinity-focus stop&quot; is when you turn the focus ring until it stops at infinity and then everything from the beginning focus point to infinity is in focus.&#xA;&#xA;I listed this as it makes it easier to prefocus the lens prior to detaching it and freelensing it. Holding the camera body and lens while also trying to focus the lens is difficult to do and is a bit risky, as you may drop your lens or camera. The hard-infinity stop helps reduce this by setting the focus ring before detaching the lens." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:02:04.610" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13829" PostId="9580" Text="@jrista edited the post, but it should read a Nikon 35-70mm f/2.8 lens." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:04:29.130" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13830" PostId="150" Text="+1 for lens hoods. My hoods quickly become covered with little marks from banging against fences and gates, but then I tend to be running fast to get to safety." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:06:06.853" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13831" PostId="9626" Text="Apologies. I was trying to keep the concepts separate so I could keep the diagrams simpler, however they are indeed inexorably linked in real life. My attempts to exclude aperture from the focal length diagram seems to have had the opposite effect, so I've removed them. The real point I was trying to make was simply that DoF is ultimately determined by the divergence in the angle of light between in and out of focus point light sources, or the &quot;rate of change in CoC&quot;. The faster the rate of change, the thinner the DoF." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:17:10.243" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13832" PostId="9630" Text="While I do agree with you, from a real world perspective, that my last diagram required an f/0.7 aperture, the point of the second set of diagrams was to demonstrate how focal length affected DoF without factoring in a specific aperture (or, maintaining a constant absolute maximum aperture and only varying the focal length). I do agree it ended up confusing in the end, so I've removed those two diagrams. Hopefully the answer is clearer now." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:31:52.647" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13833" PostId="9580" Text="I actually only changed the title a bit. I'm not sure what you are referring to, so feel free to make the necessary edits yourself." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:37:05.980" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13834" PostId="9626" Text="@jrista: I certainly agree with that. Although it does add some complexity, it might be worth mentioning why a change in focal length does *not* affect DoF (as things are usually measured). It took me a while to figure that out." CreationDate="2011-03-10T04:41:43.383" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13835" PostId="9626" Text="I've attempted to add a short/simple explanation of how focal length affects DoF at the end of the answer I posted. I'm not sure if it's really adequate though -- I'd welcome any comments..." CreationDate="2011-03-10T05:03:54.163" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13836" PostId="9638" Score="1" Text="+1 for &quot;what are the specific concerns&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-10T05:25:31.230" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="13837" PostId="9630" Text="Well, now the math is starting to bite. I ran your numbers, 50/1.4 and 100/2.8. Given the formula for DOF from my answer, at a distance of 20 feet and a CoC of 0.021mm, the results are as so: 50mm @ f/1.4 = DOF 2.88 feet; 100mm @ f/2.8 = DOF 1.43 feet. The depths of field only converged with 100mm @ f/5.6, where both lenses had a DOF of 2.88 feet. I've updated my answer with some F# code that can be used with the `F# Interactive` command line tool from Microsoft, if you wish to double check my math. (In all honesty, I'm surprised myself that a 100mm lens required f/5.6 aperture.)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T05:31:41.320" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13838" PostId="9630" Text="@jrista: That doesn't surprise me at all. At the same distance, the 100 mm lens will have twice the reproduction ratio, so we expect less DoF. The same f/stop and same reproduction ratio will give the same DoF, so with both at f/2.8, we expect the same DoF when the 100mm is twice as far away." CreationDate="2011-03-10T05:38:18.970" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13839" PostId="9630" Text="@Jerry: All things being equal, I guess (based on your updated answer) that I would have expected a 50/1.4 and 100/2.8 to have the same DoF for a common CoC and Subject Distance. However, given the math, you not only need to halve the aperture at 100mm, but also double the distance, to achieve the same exact DoF.  As such, your earlier explanation about focal length and aperture is...I guess not inaccurate, just lacking specificity. The statement is only true if we assume that another variable, distance, also changes. If CoC and distance are fixed, then your statement is inaccurate." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:08:00.180" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13840" PostId="9630" Text="@jrista: Hmm...I thought I'd emphasized reproduction ratio throughout the early part of my answer, but perhaps I should rewrite it a bit to make it even more prominent." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:11:43.667" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13841" PostId="9630" Text="I think this is where the 'intuitive' discussion of DoF breaks down, and brings me to what I wanted to portray with my second set of diagrams (however, I apparently had it all backwards, as the longer focal length has the shorter DoF.) **All other things being equal**, focal length does have an independent effect on DoF. Assuming Aperture, CoC, and Subject Distance are fixed, doubling focal length from 50mm to 100mm does not maintain the same DoF, it actually reduces it by a factor of 4. To maintain DoF, distance and focal must be adjusted by equal factors." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:12:10.630" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13842" PostId="9630" Text="@jrista: As your program showed, if the distance and focal length are reciprocally adjusted, constant aperture gives constant DoF. What may be counterintuitive is that DoF isn't *linearly* inverse to reproduction ratio, but quadratically -- double the reproduction ration gives 1/4 the DoF; triple it gives 1/9th the DoF, etc. This why macro work consistently uses such tiny apertures. It's also a large part of why different formats (e.g., 35mm vs. 6x6cm vs. 4x5&quot;) have such distinctive looks." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:21:11.570" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13843" PostId="9630" Text="@Jerry: Aye, the relationship is quadratic, which I do think makes the whole thing a bit counterintuitive. I think it is simpler to discuss DoF when only one factor is changed at a time, rather than two. For an experienced photographer, the relationship becomes second nature, and it only takes a fleeting thought to know that if you wish to maintain DoF when you change lenses, you need to change the distance as well. In a technical discussion about DoF, however, I think it is important to be clear about what factors are changing and how those changes affect the outcome. ATBE! :)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:26:49.883" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13844" PostId="9630" Text="If the DoF was linearly inverse to reproduction ratio, the *apparent* DoF would remain constant across formats -- with a smaller sensor you'd enlarge more, so the effective DoF would remain constant. The quadratic relationship leads to visible differences." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:29:27.707" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13845" PostId="9630" Text="@jrista: that's why I emphasized reproduction ratio: it unifies distance and focal length, so you only have a single factor to keep in mind. Of course, if you want to get technical, your answer does add one detail that ignores: when the entry and exit pupils aren't identical, it's no longer quite accurate (but for most photography, the error's too small to care much about)." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:35:58.000" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13846" PostId="9630" Text="@Jerry: I guess that would be true. That would mean you know the magnification factors of each of your lenses at any focus distance, though. Some lenses have magnification factor scales on them, however they tend to be fairly rough and imprecise. Unless you had a handy cheat sheet, or a camera that calculated magnification for you, I'm not sure how useful it is to use reproduction ratio over focal length and distance from a practical standpoint. Or am I missing something simple about calculating magnification?" CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:49:04.093" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13847" PostId="9639" Score="2" Text="I can't see this being possible on a compact/P&amp;S camera because they only have contrast-detect autofocus.  Contrast-detect autofocus has no ability to know whether something is &quot;in focus&quot; or not, and it needs to wind the autofocus motor back and forth to see it getting &quot;sharper&quot; or &quot;blurrier&quot; to do any detection.  It will only know when something *was* in focus once it's gone too far and it starts getting more blurry again.  Then it winds the focus motor back the other way until it's back there.  Obviously this means it cannot have an AF confirm indicator, or trap focus for that matter." CreationDate="2011-03-10T06:58:27.310" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="13848" PostId="9620" Score="1" Text="I feel it my duty to point out that *true* fisheye lenses are not supposed to be full-frame on *any* format. If you can't see the whole image circle, then it's one of those new-fangled &quot;full-frame fisheyes&quot; -- which always translated in my mind as &quot;we couldn't correct the barrel distortion on this design, so we changed the label&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-10T07:02:32.563" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13849" PostId="9622" Text="bokeh is highly subjective anyway :)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T07:20:54.070" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13850" PostId="9628" Text="Can't you sum that all up in two factors: the aperture and the size of the subject on the sensor?" CreationDate="2011-03-10T07:29:44.130" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="13851" PostId="9605" Text="+1 for mentioning roundening of aperture blades (the lack thereof, in this example)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T10:12:25.673" UserId="2173" />
  <row Id="13852" PostId="9639" Text="There are several solutions listed in the references immediately after the Trap Focus section of the Wikipedia article you refer to. I have just tried the Nikon one with my D5000 and it works reasonably well." CreationDate="2011-03-10T10:16:07.160" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="13853" PostId="9612" Text="Doh! I'm normally good at not using &quot;it's&quot; for a possessive! I really don't mind minor corrections like this, anything that makes the site easier to read and use..." CreationDate="2011-03-10T10:37:52.050" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13854" PostId="9628" Score="1" Text="+1 for throwing out the numbers and making it practical -- I've always wondered how anybody can judge something to be in or out of focus to three decimal places with a straight face." CreationDate="2011-03-10T10:42:17.460" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13855" PostId="9628" Score="1" Text="@Kristof you can, but I find that winds up confusing people, instead I wanted to concentrate on how four common inputs can be used to manipulate DoF in normal shooting conditions." CreationDate="2011-03-10T11:05:25.723" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13856" PostId="9639" Text="@ElendilTheTall: The techniques seem to be primarily for the Nikon &amp; Pentax cameras. Haven't seen a proper one for Canon yet." CreationDate="2011-03-10T11:06:55.960" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="13857" PostId="9640" Score="2" Text="+1 for getting better lenses." CreationDate="2011-03-10T11:20:23.247" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13858" PostId="9639" Text="The Nikon technique only makes use of AF-S and using the AE-L button to autofocus. I thought these were fairly universal features. I'm sure Canons have AF-S; do they not have the ability to autofocus with a button other than the shutter button?" CreationDate="2011-03-10T11:25:27.677" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="13859" PostId="9646" Score="2" Text="Note that even a single manufacturer may have more than one format, usually as a development from older formats." CreationDate="2011-03-10T13:51:01.723" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13860" PostId="9639" Text="@thomasrutter you can implement a version of trap focus without a phase detect AF system if you have a good blur metric and set a threshold at which the camera fires. This sounds like an interesting CHDK project." CreationDate="2011-03-10T14:04:43.917" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13861" PostId="9617" Score="1" Text="Does it perhaps crash because you don't have enough RAM? (Just an idea.)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T14:10:20.293" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13862" PostId="9651" Text="All my lenses are Canon, Is there something I'm missing?" CreationDate="2011-03-10T14:47:41.813" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="13863" PostId="9651" Score="7" Text="I think you have to be activating the AF function (i.e. by half pressing the shutter) as the AF system on a DSLR doesn't do anything until activated." CreationDate="2011-03-10T15:05:55.467" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="13864" PostId="9648" Text="As you said I was thinking more on a viewer /sharing site." CreationDate="2011-03-10T15:24:33.367" UserId="4256" />
  <row Id="13865" PostId="9655" Score="4" Text="Could you provide a little more explanation?  Why do you like these, and what are the differences?" CreationDate="2011-03-10T15:36:21.233" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13866" PostId="9639" Text="What's your definition of &quot;specialized equipment?&quot;  Something you have to buy (but a DIY solution would be acceptable)?  Or anything that is external to the camera (only a setting available through in-camera menus is acceptable)?" CreationDate="2011-03-10T16:26:54.453" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13867" PostId="9626" Text="Whats with the down votes??" CreationDate="2011-03-10T16:28:57.253" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13869" PostId="9651" Text="@Matt Grum Spot on! Thanks. :) Too bad I can't mark this as the correct answer." CreationDate="2011-03-10T16:54:14.710" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="13870" PostId="9626" Text="@jrista: I don't know -- the only thing I can think of is that some people automatically consider &quot;math&quot; and &quot;art&quot; total opposites, so addressing anything artistic via math bothers them. IMO, that's pretty sad though: there's a lot of math behind most art (e.g., music theory is also almost entirely mathematical). and for that matter, I'd say math itself should be considered an art." CreationDate="2011-03-10T16:55:08.447" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13871" PostId="1949" Text="@Nick Bedford - or, use the original file while editing the meta themselves." CreationDate="2011-03-10T17:32:52.360" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13872" PostId="9626" Text="Well, the question was &quot;What exactly determines depth of field in a photograph?&quot;, and I don't think you can be truly exact without including the math. Anyway, I agree, art is often very mathematical under the surface, and understanding the math (even if it results in too much precision) can help you with the art in the long run." CreationDate="2011-03-10T17:49:02.800" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13873" PostId="9658" Score="1" Text="I have to agree with Guffa, you should really use manual mode to maintain consistent exposure. So long as the input lighting is consistent, manual exposure should do the trick. You might also want to try using a custom WB setting, by taking a wide shot of the gallery at large, and using that as your WB base. Might help with consistency." CreationDate="2011-03-10T17:53:35.730" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13874" PostId="9499" Text="heh.  Indeed it would.  Though, was it even an FD mount?  It looked like something... much bigger.  Perhaps I was mistaken, though." CreationDate="2011-03-10T18:33:11.670" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13875" PostId="9601" Text="@thomasrutter: that's helpful, thanks.  +1 on your comment.  My hope, too, is that @Matt Grum will also add it to his answer, for easier access by future readers.  :)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T18:34:33.853" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="13876" PostId="9630" Text="@jrista: I don't think it really means you need to know the mag factor of any lens -- you just have to recognize that for a given camera, tighter framing reduces DoF -- and changing lenses will *not* change that; as long as you move/zoom to maintain the same framing, you'll get the same DoF unless you change the aperture." CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:14:22.350" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13877" PostId="9643" Text="+1 - Ooooh. Awesome pictures! Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:24:36.587" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13879" PostId="9662" Text="@Queso: you can edit your question to make it better." CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:33:03.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13880" PostId="9612" Text="@Matt: I'm sorry for switching the accepted answer on ya -- but the pictures from drewbenn really illustrate the point well." CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:35:31.350" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="13881" PostId="9672" Text="+1 - a great place to start." CreationDate="2011-03-10T20:27:24.210" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="13882" PostId="9661" Text="While we generally don't encourage questions that are specific to certain localities, I think that asking about how one might find such clubs seems relevant. " CreationDate="2011-03-10T20:34:05.777" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="13883" PostId="9580" Text="@jrista - my bad, I must have incorrectly wrote the question myself. I've edited to make the change. For some reason, I didn't see an &quot;edit&quot; button before now." CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:10:33.547" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="13884" PostId="9631" Score="1" Text="I'm not sure how this relates to photography. This is probably better suited for a physics or applied optics forum." CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:29:25.470" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="13885" PostId="9667" Text="Thanks for the comments might be worth paying a bit more for the D90" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:33:38.477" UserId="4264" />
  <row Id="13886" PostId="9666" Text="Thanks for the comments would sell them and put the money to a new lens but you don't get offered much now" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:34:58.540" UserId="4264" />
  <row Id="13887" PostId="9667" Score="1" Text="I don't believe the D40 has a focus motor.  Granted the D40 is no longer in production..." CreationDate="2011-03-10T22:49:35.683" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="13888" PostId="9667" Score="1" Text="Yes, the D40, D40X and D60 did not have focus motors either." CreationDate="2011-03-10T22:58:57.780" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13889" PostId="9678" Score="1" Text="What kind of photography? Different kinds of photography have different artistic form, and there aren't really many one-size-fits-all books that can teach you how to be artistic in all forms of photography. (There may be one...I'll provide an answer with that one, though.)" CreationDate="2011-03-10T23:47:49.520" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13891" PostId="9678" Text="Oy, I forgot we had another &quot;Books for artistic photography&quot; thread. Nice catch!" CreationDate="2011-03-11T01:25:19.697" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13893" PostId="9682" Text="Oh ! I dint know that it will cut glare and reflection , especially through water ! I wanted to cut down that reflection in my recent trip where I wanted to capture underwater fish :D but was not able to due to reflection ! Thanks for the tip !" CreationDate="2011-03-11T03:39:40.453" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="13894" PostId="9682" Score="4" Text="@sat: When light reflects off the surface of a material that isn't electrically conductive, it gets polarized. A crossed polarizer in front of the lens will block (most of) that reflection. There are quite a few filters that purport to give the effect of polarization, but most just bump up the saturation." CreationDate="2011-03-11T03:48:30.523" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="13895" PostId="9499" Score="1" Text="@lindes - It was FD. If you look up the FD mount on Wiki, you'll see that the 5200mm was the largest on the mount. Now, mind you, it was a mirror lens so the bokeh will suck... ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-11T03:51:43.143" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13896" PostId="9663" Text="Thanks for the link. Looks very useful and similar to CHDK (for Canon P&amp;S). I'll try it out and share the results. A note for the others - Magic Lantern is currently available only for the 5DMkII &amp; 550D with beta support of 500D &amp; 7D work in progress." CreationDate="2011-03-11T04:49:18.710" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="13897" PostId="9639" Text="The Magic Lantern firmware hack mentioned by @Andres looks promising. Will try it &amp; share the results." CreationDate="2011-03-11T04:51:53.387" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="13898" PostId="9682" Text="I thought the deeper blue is a result of **stronger contrast between the sky and clouds**, from the change the polarizer effects on the image of the clouds.  So a picture of a cloudless sky, whether using or not using a polarizer, wouldn't change anything (the camera (in anything other than Manual mode) would just change its exposure to compensate for the 1- to 2-stop ND effect so you wouldn't notice a difference in the final picture)." CreationDate="2011-03-11T05:21:51.287" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13899" PostId="9682" Text="Cutting down reflections works best when the reflection is roughly at a 45 degree angle." CreationDate="2011-03-11T05:46:45.790" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="13900" PostId="9684" Score="3" Text="Agreed, for reasons of speed, a central database becomes essential with a large photo collection. But, and this is a big but, you must be very good about regularly backing up your database. In the Linux world Shotwell does a very good job." CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:25:16.207" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13901" PostId="8136" Text="colour fringing isn't a product of using a fisheye, it's a product of using a poorly designed or constructed lens.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-11T06:57:45.853" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13902" PostId="9641" Text="&quot;D40 was easier to use, and the results I got straight out of the camera were more pleasing&quot;&#xA;&#xA;that's because the D40 does some white balance, saturation, and contrast boosting in-camera, something advanced users (those the D200 and up are targeted at) don't want their cameras to do :)" CreationDate="2011-03-11T07:07:12.320" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="13903" PostId="9631" Score="3" Text="That is an interesting setup. Can you tell us why you need to do this? Understanding the problem might help one of our community to suggest an answer." CreationDate="2011-03-11T07:27:36.123" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13904" PostId="9682" Score="3" Text="@drewbenn, the picture of the cloudless sky is still changed by the polarizer, especially at 90° to the light." CreationDate="2011-03-11T08:32:18.283" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="13905" PostId="5149" Text="$100 or $200 for cross-platform version." CreationDate="2011-03-11T08:35:55.970" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="13907" PostId="9683" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/8/21" CreationDate="2011-03-11T08:50:59.070" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="13908" PostId="9683" Score="1" Text="...or http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/5974/21" CreationDate="2011-03-11T08:52:00.630" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="13909" PostId="9641" Text="@jwenting indeed, this can be a bit of a perceived letdown when starting to use a more &quot;advanced&quot; camera." CreationDate="2011-03-11T09:06:02.910" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="13910" PostId="9531" Text="Did my answer answer your question?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T09:53:24.517" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13911" PostId="9681" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1938/what-types-of-filter-cannot-be-emulated-by-post-processing" CreationDate="2011-03-11T11:15:57.300" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="13912" PostId="9682" Text="The darker blue of skies is a result of filtering out the (sligthly polarized) stray blue light. That is why this effect too only works at certain angles. Bonus of filtering out some stray light is that you also can cut down haze a bit." CreationDate="2011-03-11T11:30:53.497" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="13913" PostId="1947" Text="Semiconductors are highly susceptible to high-energy-light like UV. That is why you have a filter inbuilt. CMOS-sensors are a special case, they are normally protected by a silicon nitride passivation layer that filters out UV too (new tech available since Feb 2011)." CreationDate="2011-03-11T11:39:52.707" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="13914" PostId="4804" Score="1" Text="Converted to community wiki." CreationDate="2011-03-11T12:09:58.483" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="13915" PostId="9684" Text="I'm not opposed to a central database as well, but I want the tags embedded into the files so that if I change programs, the tags will still be there--like what I'm doing now.  Photos are designed to have metadata embedded into them." CreationDate="2011-03-11T12:28:49.903" UserId="4268" />
  <row Id="13916" PostId="9684" Text="I do think that tags at least are stored in the image when you use Picasa. I don't have to do anything special to get them included when uploading to Flickr, and I can read them in Windows explorer. Picasa only stores editing history etc in sidecar files." CreationDate="2011-03-11T12:59:30.533" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="13917" PostId="9686" Text="Can you do some tests to make _sure_ that image stabilization is involved?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:48:17.107" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13918" PostId="9686" Text="Also, I wanted to note that pixel mapping isn't going to help here. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2078/how-do-i-remove-dead-pixels-from-a-digital-photo for what that's for. (Unrelated, but kudos to Olympus for including that feature in an entry-level camera.) " CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:51:26.743" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13919" PostId="2078" Score="1" Text="N.B. stuck _on_ pixels are called &quot;stuck pixels&quot; or &quot;hot pixels&quot;; &quot;dead pixels&quot; is usually used for (much-less-obtrusive) always-black pixels." CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:54:41.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13920" PostId="9686" Text="@mattdm how do I do a test? Does taking a picture while I am moving count?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:56:47.117" UserId="2310" />
  <row Id="13921" PostId="9686" Score="1" Text="Take a picture with the &quot;DIS&quot; mode on that demonstrates the problem. Leaving all other settings the same, turn off stabilization and take the same picture. Ideally, do this a couple of times in different situations." CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:58:04.743" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13922" PostId="9687" Text="That was my thought too, but the outside of the lens is clean. And since the lens is not removable, I am going a to hazard a statement, and say that there wont be dust inside it :) If I give the camera to repair, what exactly do i tell the guy to look for? 2. I will take a few pics in different modes, in combinations flash and w/o flash." CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:58:06.603" UserId="2310" />
  <row Id="13923" PostId="9688" Text="Can i open it up, and check? Or will it be TOO complicated an unclean in an home environment? " CreationDate="2011-03-11T13:59:37.770" UserId="2310" />
  <row Id="13924" PostId="9688" Score="2" Text="If this _were_ the case, I'm afraid you'd be most likely to make the problem worse. These things really aren't made to be user-serviceable." CreationDate="2011-03-11T14:12:10.767" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13925" PostId="9690" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/471/what-tools-are-available-for-raw-image-processing-in-linux — Bibble isn't the only one." CreationDate="2011-03-11T14:13:57.693" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13926" PostId="8233" Text="Can the horizontal field of view of the largest usable rectangle be computed from the field of view (or focal length) of the fisheye?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T14:22:21.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13927" PostId="9679" Text="I'm voting this up even though the question is closed because it's such a good recommendation. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-11T14:41:19.917" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13928" PostId="9679" Text="Actually, I've taken the liberty of merging this into your Community Wiki answer at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4804/books-resources-on-the-artistic-side-of-photograpy/4809#4809. Hope you don't mind!" CreationDate="2011-03-11T14:46:26.010" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13929" PostId="9690" Text="I'm in the same situation as you are. I use Windows only because of Lightroom. &#xA;&#xA;&#xA;There is a free trial of bibble for download on the website: http://download.bibblelabs.com/b5/&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;However I personally wasn't satisfied with it :(" CreationDate="2011-03-11T14:53:44.617" UserId="3586" />
  <row Id="13930" PostId="9693" Score="6" Text="It is a pretentious image..." CreationDate="2011-03-11T15:45:25.370" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="13932" PostId="9694" Score="2" Text="Technically, a JPEG off the camera has been manipulated by software, it's just the software running on the camera. Some give quite a bit of control over the outcome too." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:06:32.523" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13933" PostId="9693" Score="1" Text="I basically agree with Shizam... I'll also add that I don't think such a beast actually exists." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:06:58.683" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13934" PostId="9695" Score="1" Text="It's also worth noting that the journalist's associations are as concerned (or _more_ concerned) with _staged_ photos or manipulative _use_ of imagery as they are with the actual pixels." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:10:23.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13935" PostId="9695" Text="Thank you very much Mattdm. This is basically the answer I was looking for. I realized that this was somewhat of a &quot;subjective&quot; question but I knew that there was be some sort of answer. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:20:34.467" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="13936" PostId="9694" Text="I feel that this is more a technical definition of the term &quot;unmanipulated&quot; but not the views of the average photographer.&#xA;&#xA;To expand on John's answer. Some camera's even have built in saturation controls. Personally, I don't like that the feature even exists on cameras but that would manipulate the picture before it's even recorded to your memory card.&#xA;&#xA;I appreciate the input though." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:24:30.597" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="13937" PostId="9694" Text="The point is that when a camera outputs an image, it has been done in a controlled and limited way. It instills more trust that an image represents reality." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:24:43.293" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13938" PostId="9694" Score="1" Text="The other point is that once an image has been changed in ANY way, we cannot prove how much it was changed. If the digital signature no longer matches, it could be discredited as court evidence." CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:30:26.250" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="13939" PostId="9668" Text="Thanks will stick with buying the Nikon D3100 see how I go on" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:41:52.903" UserId="4264" />
  <row Id="13940" PostId="9676" Text="Thanks i've been looking at the D7000 to expensive for me at tne moment will just have to use manual focus thanks for the comments" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:44:01.263" UserId="4264" />
  <row Id="13941" PostId="9665" Text="Nikon's web-site has a [D3100 Lens Compatibiity](http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/digitalcamera/slr/d3100/compatibility02.htm) page which provides this information" CreationDate="2011-03-11T17:02:55.083" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="13942" PostId="9687" Score="2" Text="@Kaustubh The fact that it doesn't have a removable lens is no guarantee that there isn't dust inside the camera. Unless your camera is weather sealed (and the vast majority of P&amp;S cameras aren't...) it's completely possible for dust to get into your camera based simply on using it..." CreationDate="2011-03-11T17:03:23.567" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13943" PostId="9672" Text="+1 I became aware of quite a few groups which share my interests, including photography, just by browsing the Meetup site." CreationDate="2011-03-11T17:10:01.943" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="13944" PostId="9701" Text="This is a good point. &quot;Manipulation&quot; carries the implication that the intent of the changes is to make the image differ from reality." CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:09:34.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13946" PostId="6671" Score="1" Text="I wouldn't be surprised if it were _better_ than new. When you buy an off-the-shelf lens, it's the result of mass manufacturing. It probably gets a nominal inspection, but not a careful one. With a lens repair, since every damaged lens is different, your lens is guaranteed  individual attention." CreationDate="2011-03-11T18:41:09.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13947" PostId="6671" Text="And the lens feels even better now after this comment ;-) You could be right about that!" CreationDate="2011-03-11T19:15:38.437" UserId="2670" />
  <row Id="13948" PostId="9599" Text="@jetxee, I can't talk to what was true a few months ago but right now Shotwell happily imports my RAW photos" CreationDate="2011-03-11T19:26:30.913" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13949" PostId="9702" Score="3" Text="I like your answer because you give a clear motivation whereas the other answers merely state preferences. That said, the amount of reflected light will depend on the size of the black/grey border. So smaller borders will have a lesser effect on the total reflected light and thus can be darker." CreationDate="2011-03-11T19:41:32.163" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13950" PostId="9695" Text="I think you need to distinguish between journalistic photos and creative work. In journalism cropping can dangerously change the context and intent which perverts the message. In creative work we have no such fear and can crop to our hearts content." CreationDate="2011-03-11T20:03:59.637" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13951" PostId="9655" Text="Thanks, but according to http://www.topazlabs.com/infocus/ and http://www.topazlabs.com/detail/, they cost about $70 and $40 respectively. Any free ones?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T20:13:14.930" UserId="4242" />
  <row Id="13952" PostId="9617" Text="Indeed, I get this error 'Exception in thread &quot;AWT-EventQueue-0&quot; java.lang.OutOfMemoryError: Java heap space' even with 2GB free according to Windows Task Manager." CreationDate="2011-03-11T20:21:39.853" UserId="4242" />
  <row Id="13953" PostId="9695" Text="Great answer, mattdm." CreationDate="2011-03-11T20:39:08.280" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="13954" PostId="9695" Text="@labnut: am I not making that distinction?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T20:53:59.657" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13955" PostId="8138" Text="Thanks for the link. Despite what is mentioned above with loss of quality the images on that page are pretty spectacular. I kind of like the distortion." CreationDate="2011-03-11T22:03:44.560" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="13956" PostId="9695" Score="1" Text="+1 -- Good point about the reasons for photo.net's rules.  The point is to classify images to help others learn.  One isn't necessarily better than the other, but, after all, there is more than one way to skin a cat.  If I see an image that I would otherwise think was a Photoshop job, under the classification of &quot;unmanipulated&quot; I would want to know how they took the photo.  I might learn a new skill!" CreationDate="2011-03-11T22:23:07.320" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="13957" PostId="9710" Score="10" Text="Start with the realisation that selecting 10 out of 300 is impossible, but throwing out the worst half is easy -- and it continues to be easier to throw out the worst half than to select the best until you're down to one remaining image. Then it becomes a show/no-show decision. One out of 300 is actually a pretty good rate for exhibition." CreationDate="2011-03-11T23:12:33.657" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="13958" PostId="9710" Text="Good point. Do you also kill images on the camera right after you shoot them?" CreationDate="2011-03-11T23:15:45.247" UserId="4274" />
  <row Id="13959" PostId="9710" Score="4" Text="I don't, unless they're absolute duds (like completely black from flash misfires) and even then I usually don't bother. 1: It's easier to judge a photo on the big screen, not the small. 2: It's quicker to burn through them on the computer than it is on the camera. Just make sure you have enough space on your card." CreationDate="2011-03-11T23:25:33.460" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="13960" PostId="9710" Score="6" Text="I think one of the first ways to find the best of a shoot is to eliminate &quot;takes&quot;. It always annoys me when a photographer posts 10 versions of the same photo, no matter how good they all are." CreationDate="2011-03-12T01:15:10.093" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="13961" PostId="9695" Text="Googling for &quot;fauxtography&quot; is one way to find discussion about digitally manipulated or staged photos." CreationDate="2011-03-12T04:54:54.313" UserId="4276" />
  <row Id="13962" PostId="9679" Text="@mattdm: No problem. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-12T05:12:27.940" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="13963" PostId="9710" Score="2" Text="&quot;Do you also kill images on the camera right after you shoot them?&quot; If you're shooting something that gives you the luxury of having plenty of times between shots without concern of missing a shot. If you're shooting action you'll quickly learn to trust your camera and settings and ignore the display after the first couple shots, otherwise you'll be chimping, look up and see the tail end of a nice shot disappearing. " CreationDate="2011-03-12T06:16:18.737" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="13964" PostId="9714" Score="1" Text="@Daveorama linked to the correct, voltage-regulated battery in his answer as well." CreationDate="2011-03-12T07:09:29.947" UserId="3078" />
  <row Id="13965" PostId="9516" Text="I'm not into professional photography at all.  It is just for fun and learning :)" CreationDate="2011-03-12T07:29:18.697" UserId="4181" />
  <row Id="13967" PostId="9708" Score="2" Text="I don't have enough rep to creat tags on this site, but I think this problem should be know as the &quot;curation&quot; problem, and there should be a &quot;curation&quot; tag." CreationDate="2011-03-12T10:53:14.767" UserId="4274" />
  <row Id="13968" PostId="9715" Text="Thanks @Genius. Beautiful shot!" CreationDate="2011-03-12T10:56:02.533" UserId="4274" />
  <row Id="13969" PostId="9708" Text="@Joey — it's trivial to pull the JPEG preview out of RAW images, so I bet you could whip it up in two hours." CreationDate="2011-03-12T14:05:28.117" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13970" PostId="9708" Text="@Zippy: good suggestion. I added the &quot;curation&quot; tag." CreationDate="2011-03-12T14:07:10.143" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="13971" PostId="8136" Text="Don't know why this got a -1, I bumped it back to 0. The original question was highly subjective. Despite all the mentioned downsides to converting fish eye shots back to rectilinear I happen to like the results of the shots. The extreme distortion adds a nice flair to the shots. There are many awesome examples out there." CreationDate="2011-03-12T16:23:56.267" UserId="4024" />
  <row Id="13972" PostId="9516" Text="Then I'll bet that the attachment will be a lot of fun for you to use! Like I said, I think it's a bit of a 'no brainer' to spend ~$35 on something like this..." CreationDate="2011-03-12T16:42:34.747" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="13973" PostId="9717" Text="What I find is strange is that the dots are so big. Especially in the upper image it looks like on the inside of the lens -- or like snow. " CreationDate="2011-03-12T16:47:31.137" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="13974" PostId="9721" Text="While the D90 has an in body focus motor - I highly doubt its actually used for this lens, so thats not really pertinent." CreationDate="2011-03-12T17:28:50.657" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="13975" PostId="9708" Text="@Joey: There's also the [Libraw](http://www.libraw.org/) library and the built-in ImageIO framework in OS X. Shouldn't be too hard to implement something simple." CreationDate="2011-03-12T17:47:28.783" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="13976" PostId="9715" Score="3" Text="The wife filter works for me too since she doesn't care about exposure or out of focus if the shot is a good picture of her or the kid is actually smiling at the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-12T18:29:13.333" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="13977" PostId="9599" Text="@labnut, OK, I withdraw my comment." CreationDate="2011-03-12T20:26:17.133" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="13978" PostId="9712" Score="1" Text="I can't emphasize the importance of time away from the images enough. As Brad says, everything starts to blur together after awhile. There's an old story about some of the best photographers back in the day dropping rolls of 35mm in a big box, and not developing them for a couple months until the box is full, then starting a new box to collect exposed rolls in and picking rolls at random from the full box to develop and print. The couple months that the roll sat in the box gives them the objectivity to cull the frames without the memory of what they say on location clouding their opinion." CreationDate="2011-03-12T21:19:17.373" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13979" PostId="9718" Score="1" Text="If you use DNG format, the metatdata can be stored in the dng file instead of in an xmp sidecar." CreationDate="2011-03-12T21:24:02.097" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13980" PostId="9713" Text="+1 for pointing out the 30 day trial. That gives the OP the chance to try it themselves and build their own experiences before plunking down the cash." CreationDate="2011-03-12T21:25:34.667" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="13981" PostId="9721" Text="Hence my statement that it was only one possible cause..." CreationDate="2011-03-12T22:04:18.533" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="13982" PostId="9718" Text="Maybe so; I don't use DNG myself. Personally, I consider Lightroom's method of not touching the original file a feature, not a bug :)" CreationDate="2011-03-12T23:08:55.703" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="13983" PostId="9724" Text="&quot;When you move/rotate photos to make them match it is called `photo stacking`&quot; - have I understood well?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T00:16:20.567" UserId="4287" />
  <row Id="13985" PostId="9724" Text="The process of aligning, combining, and adjusting is often simply called &quot;stacking.&quot; They're usually all done as part of the same process." CreationDate="2011-03-13T02:01:47.657" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="13986" PostId="9698" Text="Do you know if there's a way to disable face scanning/detection (if there is such a thing) in WLPG?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T02:27:58.483" UserId="4268" />
  <row Id="13987" PostId="9558" Text="Your advice was pretty compelling, but in the end I couldn't resist the lure of trying something new." CreationDate="2011-03-13T04:21:24.473" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="13988" PostId="9698" Score="1" Text="I believe you can un-check 'find people' in the options panel." CreationDate="2011-03-13T04:52:54.637" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="13989" PostId="9715" Score="1" Text="@AngerClown, I recently took a photography class, and the instructor (who does a lot of wedding work) said that all that matters is if the bride looks good. The groom is just a minor detail, as is the rest of the shot. This may be a bit sexist, but the point is good: histograms, focus, exposure, etc are all nice, but what matters is the main subject. If that looks good, its a good shot." CreationDate="2011-03-13T06:06:02.267" UserId="307" />
  <row Id="13990" PostId="9599" Text="@jetxee, that's OK, Shotwell is rapidly progressing and in all probability lacked many features some months ago." CreationDate="2011-03-13T07:25:12.657" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13991" PostId="9729" Text="This is a great idea. It would form the basis of an ideal voting system in photo challenges/competitions." CreationDate="2011-03-13T07:35:05.457" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="13992" PostId="9734" Text="Are the ones exporting slowly the ones you tweaked the more or is it completely random?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T09:58:06.367" UserId="2807" />
  <row Id="13993" PostId="9734" Score="1" Text="Have you checked the &quot;activity&quot; window? What is Aperture doing when it is slow? Perhaps it is trying to complete some background tasks first? (That said, 2GB of RAM is very little for Aperture 3, and you will encounter all kinds of performance problems.)" CreationDate="2011-03-13T11:22:49.210" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="13994" PostId="9729" Text="@labnut: Well, there are already web applications (and open source code) out there doing that sort of thing. Basically you only need to create a total order from people's votes. An image compares either better, identical or worse to another. Obviously every image compares identical to itself, for the rest you couild simply look whether more people considered it better or worse and use that." CreationDate="2011-03-13T12:44:34.100" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="13995" PostId="681" Text="I was speaking more specifically about main mode dial (the bottom photo on the link you sent).  I have a Canon S90, and it's got the same main mode dial as the Canon EOS Rebel.  Because the original questioner has been shooting the SI5S in manual mode the vast majority of the time, I think she's right in expecting the transition to DSLR to be &quot;relatively painless&quot;.  Control wheels for shutter speed and aperture on a Canon DSLR will surface controls that are probably buried under some menus on her current camera." CreationDate="2011-03-13T13:26:02.817" UserId="119" />
  <row Id="13996" PostId="9658" Text="OK Thanks, This all makes sense to me now and means with the Raw images I'll be getting a very pure image capture all at a similar exposure. This may be for a different questions, but is there any particualar gray I should use? Or a combination of grays? I have some matte board at differentcolors. I'm shooting from the EOS utility to having a pattern I can auto focus on to start would help too, even thoug I'll fine tune for each subject from the computer. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T14:05:27.680" UserId="4259" />
  <row Id="13997" PostId="9657" Text="Thanks Staale, makes sense and balancing all the images out to the same base will definitely be the way to go. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T14:07:03.780" UserId="4259" />
  <row Id="13998" PostId="9660" Text="Sadly we're talking upward of a 1000 subjects and I'm just not going to be able to take multiple images to choose from later. As suggested above though if I balance everything out to a standard gray it should work. I've only experimented with a couple so far but it looks good. I just need to find out if there is a 'particular' gray I should use or a pattern of grays, or if can just stick to one to have them even across the board..." CreationDate="2011-03-13T14:11:04.693" UserId="4259" />
  <row Id="13999" PostId="9659" Text="Thanks ysap, that is what I'm going to try now.. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T14:11:40.823" UserId="4259" />
  <row Id="14001" PostId="9736" Text="What makes it &quot;most complete&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T16:20:29.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14002" PostId="7564" Text="Can you elaborate on &quot;somehow annoying&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T16:21:19.897" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14003" PostId="9738" Score="1" Text="Also be aware that &quot;resolution&quot; has two meanings. In computers, we use it to refer to the pixel dimensions of a screen or image. And in a computer drawing or generated image, that usually does correspond to the &quot;real&quot; resolution — the amount of detail actually _resolved_ in the image. But in a photograph, it's not necessarily the case. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T16:54:16.957" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14004" PostId="9738" Text="That's not what's going on here — just an _additional_ source of confusion. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T16:54:51.900" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14005" PostId="9739" Text="Are the border pixels used to remove interference, or just to set the black point?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T17:24:04.730" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14006" PostId="9725" Text="The hugin command line tool is align_image_stack (http://wiki.panotools.org/Align_image_stack)" CreationDate="2011-03-13T17:31:27.143" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14007" PostId="9729" Text="That's awesome. :) " CreationDate="2011-03-13T17:46:31.883" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14008" PostId="9739" Text="Both I guess, if there wasn't any interference (including thermal response) the black point would be 0" CreationDate="2011-03-13T18:08:32.740" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14009" PostId="9739" Text="[DPReview's description](http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/key=effective_pixels). It seems to me as though it goes back and forth between two opposite concepts, and I don't see it actually define the term, except implicitly. Your answer I think helps a little, but still leaves me wondering why the &quot;effective&quot; pixels would be *more* than real photo sites, though the dpreview page does give some possibilities. Effective: used to effect image data? Or image date ultimately so effected? (note: effect verb with an e: creating existence.) I'm still wondering which they mean. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T18:21:09.680" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="14010" PostId="9645" Text="Could you explain more your specific reasons for wanting to do this, and/or what exactly you're trying to accomplish? I think more information about your goals might help you get a better-suited answer. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T18:26:45.790" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="14011" PostId="9740" Text="+1 especially for the diagram.  But I'm still puzzled, because this would explain the absence of 2(5184-1 + 3456-1) = about 17K pixels, which would just be lost in the rounding in computing 18.0 - 17.9 = 0.1M pixels.  It would seem that at least three times as many pixels have to be stripped from the boundary (because anything less than 50K should round down to 0.0M).  Perhaps the demosaicing is using a larger neighborhood than the 2 x 2 ones shown here: maybe it's using around a 7 x 7 neighborhood?" CreationDate="2011-03-13T19:05:49.003" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="14012" PostId="9740" Score="1" Text="@whuber: Offhand, I'm not sure I can directly account for the rest. It's certainly *possible* to use more sensors to produce a single output pixel, but I don't have any real way of know that it's what Canon is doing in this case. A raw file from the camera would give the exact number of sensor wells, but still wouldn't tell exactly how Canon is getting from input X to output Y." CreationDate="2011-03-13T19:38:00.573" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14013" PostId="9660" Text="@kellyllek Just because you're taking that many pictures doesn't mean you *can't* take multiple images (I would think that with that many pictures, the chances you'll need to go back and do it again increases!), just that you'll want better tools if you do.  For example, you could use exposure bracketing to take the pictures so you are only pressing the shutter once (although it does mean holding it down), and then use a script on import to look at the EXIF data and move everything that's not at the desired exposure to a backup folder so you never have to look at it *until you need it*." CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:03:24.470" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14014" PostId="9740" Score="2" Text="@Jerry In good demosaicing algorithms (e.g. adaptive homogeneity-directed) each sensor well contributes to more than four output pixels so it's more than just one row or column that gets lost. It's easy enough to grab the undemosaiced output from dcraw and compare image dimensions with the output of Canon's DPP to get a definitive answer, I'll give it a go when I have time." CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:07:02.203" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14015" PostId="9741" Text="can you add little more detail? like what camera you have? what lens? " CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:12:08.463" UserId="4297" />
  <row Id="14016" PostId="9741" Score="6" Text="If you could you post some sample images (use imgur to host if necessary and post a link) as well as to some flickr images which you think have sharp eyes, that would help us give you the best answer!" CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:13:35.890" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14017" PostId="9740" Text="@Matt Grum: Right -- looking back, my previous comment is rather poorly worded. What I was trying to get at is that there are several algorithms that could (and will) lose/discard ~3 row/columns of pixels, but pixel count alone won't tell you which of those they're using. Using a more sophisticate algorithm that uses more sensors per output pixel is virtually a given though." CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:16:00.417" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14018" PostId="9743" Score="2" Text="+1. Many have not only been sharpened, but had the brightness and saturation &quot;enhanced&quot; as well. These don't increase sharpness, but can draw much more attention to the eyes." CreationDate="2011-03-13T20:33:33.147" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14019" PostId="9743" Text="As @Jerry Coffin stated, enhancing saturation does not necessarily increase sharpness from an acutance perspective, however it can increase color contrast, and contrast is also an element of sharpness. I think image enhancement can indeed play a big role in the apparent sharpness of a &quot;final&quot; image." CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:09:00.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14020" PostId="9741" Text="I second Matt's request. It would be great to see some visual comparisons that demonstrate the difference you are seeing. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:09:56.917" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14021" PostId="9746" Score="1" Text="This seems only tangentially related to photography, not sure it belongs here? " CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:21:12.523" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="14022" PostId="9743" Text="I have tried taking pictures with 50mm at f1.8, still, when it comes to capturing my son, it never so happens that his eyes are sharp. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:25:15.990" UserId="4194" />
  <row Id="14023" PostId="9746" Score="2" Text="In a typical case, yes -- you probably (without reading it...) agreed to let them in the terms of use agreement when you signed up for the site." CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:25:43.447" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14024" PostId="9741" Score="1" Text="Here're couple of my pictures: http://goo.gl/GXmeB and http://goo.gl/FSyfs" CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:27:19.153" UserId="4194" />
  <row Id="14025" PostId="9746" Text="@rm999 - I agree, but I don't know any &quot;law&quot; site so I thought maybe someone here knows more about these things..." CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:40:41.617" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="14026" PostId="9746" Text="@ Jerry - I've just read their terms and conditions but couldn't find any sentence that I could directly connect to this." CreationDate="2011-03-13T21:42:24.880" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="14027" PostId="9746" Text="I've closed this as off-topic, as while it does seem to be remotely related to photography, it is fundamentally a legal question. I highly recommend that you seek the advice of a lawyer, and see what your options are. " CreationDate="2011-03-13T22:17:35.500" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14028" PostId="9750" Text="+1 - Photo's lit with off camera flash almost always look sharper." CreationDate="2011-03-13T23:00:30.440" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14029" PostId="9741" Score="1" Text="@ashtee please post links to pictures you are trying to emulate.  Then we can help you with specific techniques to try." CreationDate="2011-03-14T00:04:18.753" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14030" PostId="9743" Text="@ashtee are the eyes the sharpest part of the picture (i.e. your camera technique is good but you need post-processing help to make them stand out even more), or is something other than the eyes sharper (i.e. you would like help with your technique to get the focus right)?" CreationDate="2011-03-14T00:07:02.870" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14031" PostId="7362" Text="I agree, EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 is only approx. 30% more expensive than EF-S 15-85, and f/2.8 makes it truly versatile. Sure, it isn't a perfect lens, it is a bit bulky (especially with the lens hood attached) and there is noticeable vignetting wide open, but it is *sharp*." CreationDate="2011-03-14T00:08:46.387" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="14032" PostId="9752" Text="also, i would try to get the subject closer to the lens, it will increase the difference between the focused area (ideally, eyes) and the background - hence, sharper eyes!" CreationDate="2011-03-14T01:14:42.633" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="14033" PostId="9723" Text="See also [How can I simulate a long exposure photo using a set of shorter exposure photos?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/8092/378)" CreationDate="2011-03-14T01:56:11.443" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14034" PostId="7360" Score="1" Text="@Matt Grum: &quot;Those two millimetres just seem a bit expensive&quot;, its not only those two mms, 15-85 is much much better in sharpness than 17-85, build quality is solid and IS works better. You can compare its sharpness with any L optics. Too bad Canon has not declared and EF-S L glass yet." CreationDate="2011-03-14T03:46:04.227" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="14035" PostId="9757" Score="1" Text="...also, stay away from fluorescent lights. Not even white balance can help you there." CreationDate="2011-03-14T04:28:46.920" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14036" PostId="9750" Text="I do not have off camera flash :(" CreationDate="2011-03-14T05:56:30.767" UserId="4194" />
  <row Id="14037" PostId="9759" Score="1" Text="Thanks for asking the question!  If you're right, it certainly helps explain why (other than my own failings as a photographer or lack of formal training) I've never understood the whole Golden Hour thing." CreationDate="2011-03-14T06:31:10.790" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14038" PostId="7360" Score="1" Text="@cabbey: This comment is rather late to the party, but I want to point out that the term &quot;full-frame fisheye&quot; has nothing to do with full-frame (as opposed to crop) sensors. An ordinary fisheye lens produces a round image, usually showing a complete 180° field of view in all directions. The image looks like what you'd see looking up at the surface from deep underwater, thus giving a fish-eye view. A full-frame fisheye shows its widest field of view into the diagonals of the frame; the rest of the image is cropped away. Confusingly, they *do* make full-frame fisheyes for crop-frame sensors." CreationDate="2011-03-14T06:55:27.533" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14039" PostId="9747" Score="3" Text="This sounds like a good place to point out that a lot of those &quot;holy crap!&quot; high-end beauty shots and portraits start out on a camera that doesn't have an antialiasing filter over the sensor (true of most medium format cameras/backs). We mere mortals trade a bit of built-in softness in order to avoid the headache of moiré everywhere, but it *does* mean that we have to put back the acutance we lost in the process." CreationDate="2011-03-14T07:11:06.593" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14040" PostId="9710" Text="&quot;Do you also kill images on the camera right after you shoot them? &quot;&#xA; No, not after having one of my favourite shots ever be one where it looked from the slide (when viewed with a loupe rather than projected) as if it were a dud. Bad motion blur, weird colours, etc. yet when viewed on a projection screen it stands out. It's not what I intended to shoot there and then, but it works better than what I'd intended to shoot. When viewed on a camera screen, that shot would have been deemed a failure." CreationDate="2011-03-14T07:33:22.703" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14041" PostId="9709" Text="problem with that approach is that often the image that best serves the purpose you intended for the shoot isn't technically perfect but perfectly captures the atmosphere, the mood, whatever of the scene." CreationDate="2011-03-14T07:39:09.110" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14042" PostId="7359" Text="Here's a detailed review of the lens in question: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-15-85mm-f-3.5-5.6-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx" CreationDate="2011-03-14T07:45:39.897" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14043" PostId="9767" Text="Here's the unit itself (iPhone 4 camera), courtesy of iFixit, googling the serial numbers didn't turn up anything unfortunately http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/BrHQqX5gowUikOGj.huge" CreationDate="2011-03-14T11:22:02.347" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14044" PostId="9690" Text="@mattdm, thanks for the link. :)  " CreationDate="2011-03-14T11:55:27.423" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="14045" PostId="9698" Text="This actually solved the problem completely.  Nonetheless, I am still looking to migrate to a more professional photo management solution." CreationDate="2011-03-14T12:19:39.127" UserId="4268" />
  <row Id="14046" PostId="5916" Text="@MattGrum, nice example, here is the difference between right and left: http://i.imgur.com/ZLa7r.jpg (which may be attributed to compression probably, because is localized mostly around the edges)" CreationDate="2011-03-14T13:50:10.673" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="14047" PostId="9770" Text="If you don't mind me asking, what are you shooting? (I mean what sort of film stock.) There's a major difference between what you'd do to handle dye clouds and what may (and may not) be possible with precipitated silver." CreationDate="2011-03-14T14:26:12.300" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14048" PostId="9709" Text="@jwenting if that's the case, no pictures from that scene make the cut!  If you're trying to choose your best photos to publish, they need to be your BEST photos.  Putting out anything sub-standard will make *you* look sub-standard.  The scenario you mentioned illustrates *why* it is so tough to pick your best photos: you won't be able to include many photos that you think are really special." CreationDate="2011-03-14T15:40:50.800" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14049" PostId="9770" Text="Mostly HP5, pushed to 1600 ISO and developed in HC 110. It's probably heresy to abuse the film like that, but I like the results. Also, I have absolutely no idea what &quot;dye clouds&quot; and &quot;precipitated silver&quot; means (and google isn't helping much)." CreationDate="2011-03-14T15:51:19.787" UserId="2460" />
  <row Id="14050" PostId="9770" Text="&quot;Dye clouds&quot; are what you get with colour and chromogenic B&amp;W film. Because they are translucent, they are scalable. Precipitated silver is what you get with traditional black and white film. See my answer for additional info." CreationDate="2011-03-14T16:12:32.277" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14051" PostId="9698" Text="Great. Glad to hear it. Don't forget that original images folder under AppData :)" CreationDate="2011-03-14T16:18:04.733" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14052" PostId="9747" Text="Aye, @Stan makes an excellent point. Our low-resolution Bayer sensors in our APS-C and FF cameras do have AA filters that soften things a bit. It should be standard practice to add a small amount of additional sharpening at the beginning of post processing, as well as any necessary output sharpening before rendering to final media (be that digital or print.) " CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:00:05.680" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14053" PostId="9770" Text="I wonder if it would make any sense to keep the original size in pixels but convert the grayscale scan to pure black &amp; white (i.e., 1 bit per pixel)? That would make the file size (in megabytes) *much* smaller, and you wouldn't need to downscale." CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:14:49.417" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="14054" PostId="9770" Text="One bit is probably going too far, but two bits (four colours: black, white, a light grey and a dark grey) would probably do just fine. Not that you'd want to call them two-bit files -- people would likely get the wrong idea." CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:23:13.997" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14055" PostId="9761" Score="1" Text="There's a tool called The Photographer's Ephemeris which allows you to calculate sunrise / sunset times taking into account terrain, although you have to be reasonably precise about where and when you want to take the shot." CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:26:26.913" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="14056" PostId="9777" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the advice, however, I'm sad to say it's based on assumptions that aren't true: even at the highest resolutions, the image won't consist of purely black or white pixels, but will be a grainy greyscale image (or even &quot;colour&quot; - sometimes you catch more tonality scanning BW negatives in colour). I have never heard of a scanner that actually does this - I think the scan DPI would need to be in the tens of thousands at least, which would require a ridiculously big sensor, precision motor and a built-in microscope. Probably not a sensible way to make a scanner." CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:28:43.057" UserId="2460" />
  <row Id="14057" PostId="9770" Score="1" Text="A relevant article from The Online Photographer: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/03/gigabyte-film-scans.html" CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:34:32.767" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14058" PostId="9777" Score="2" Text="Well, my experience is with a Heidelberg drum scanner, for what that's worth... If you can't scan tightly enough to get the grain, then you won't be able to keep the grain, no matter what resolution you scan at. Greyscaling and resynthesizing is about your only option." CreationDate="2011-03-14T17:56:14.097" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14059" PostId="9770" Score="1" Text="Could you post some 100% and scaled down examples of the photos you are scanning? A small area of the 100% scan, and a similar area from the downscaled image, along with your description of what you perceive as having been lost during scaling, would greatly help potential answerers offer some advice. Just a note on what I do know...film grain is extremely small, even the large grains, and downscaling is going to compress that detail into less space...loss is rather inevitable." CreationDate="2011-03-14T19:26:04.077" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14060" PostId="9772" Text="I'm not sure this is exactly true. While you may not necessarily need to change the RGB image via contrast, saturation, etc., what you print on can play a significant role in how the print looks when artificially lit in a dark place." CreationDate="2011-03-14T19:42:23.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14061" PostId="9780" Score="1" Text="I think this question would apply to _any_ camera-vendor-branded TTL cables, not just Canon and Nikon." CreationDate="2011-03-14T19:42:43.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14062" PostId="7521" Text="Wow- great work. Thanks for pointing her out." CreationDate="2011-03-14T19:47:58.267" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14063" PostId="9780" Text="I suppose that's true.  I'll update my wording." CreationDate="2011-03-14T19:51:32.897" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14064" PostId="9778" Text="The only exception is, if you catch the celebrity doing something they shouldn't, or in any news worthy event for that matter, but that would fall under editorial, which doesn't require their permission, so..." CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:07:47.707" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="14065" PostId="9772" Text="I have had a very different experience. I printed a fairly bright scene for the corner of my room. On the monitor it looks great, with vivid colors and good contrast. In the corner, the shadows were impossible to see, and overall the colors seemed bland. I had to move it to a bright room for it to look decent. " CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:25:21.320" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="14066" PostId="9772" Text="@rm999: Out of curiosity, what kind of paper did you print on? Did the paper have optical brighteners?" CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:27:15.467" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14067" PostId="9772" Text="I did two prints from Black River Imaging, &quot;dry mounting&quot; and metallic. Not sure if they have brighteners. " CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:43:02.530" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="14068" PostId="9777" Text="Ah, a drum scanner. If only... :) I will keep your advice in mind if I ever have (what to me appears to be) infinite money on hand ;). Thanks! And though it's not &quot;true&quot; grain, scans at a lower resolution still won't be perfectly smooth, and this non-smoothness still will have a certain &quot;character&quot; that is notably different between different films. I'm trying to figure out how best to preserve that particular character. I think that's also a topic worth discussing, don't you agree?" CreationDate="2011-03-14T20:44:25.307" UserId="2460" />
  <row Id="14069" PostId="9772" Text="The metallic paper might be why...those papers have some unique properties. I would expect a metallic paper base to really help with the saturated colors. You might have benefited a little bit from some black point adjustment...black tonal range can be rather limited when printing." CreationDate="2011-03-14T21:38:55.117" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14070" PostId="9780" Text="A related question: If you are using a name-brand cable, does the camera know that your flash is off-camera, or does it work exactly as if it was on-camera?" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:17:21.417" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="14071" PostId="9773" Text="Perfect answer, thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:18:48.790" UserId="4307" />
  <row Id="14072" PostId="9768" Text="The teardown is very helpful." CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:21:14.827" UserId="4307" />
  <row Id="14074" PostId="9786" Text="I'm not sure that link is right, as it talks about increased contrast, not phase detection." CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:52:11.063" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14075" PostId="9770" Text="Done. The effects are actually quite subtle here, other times Bicubic Smoother/Bicubic Sharper give more exaggerated results resulting in a subtle soft focus feel or an effect similar to the watercolour filter. And yes, I know I'm making a big thing out of something that's negligible most of the times." CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:59:43.313" UserId="2460" />
  <row Id="14076" PostId="9777" Score="1" Text="I think I have to agree with Stan here. If you really want to maintain as much pure grain definition as you can, you probably want to scan the originals at the highest possible resolution. A drum scanner will certainly do better than the Minolta (which is a 3-row RGB CCD scanner, which might not really be ideal). If you can start with more resolution, you have more to work with when downscaling, which should help in preserving detail." CreationDate="2011-03-14T23:28:02.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14077" PostId="8165" Text="Phase-detect AF isn't _necessarily_ linked to an optical viewfinder. See the Fujifilm F300EXR.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-15T00:42:56.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14078" PostId="9789" Text="Can you summarize here, for posterity?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T00:43:13.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14079" PostId="9780" Text="@Jukka: Cameras don't know or care if their flash is off camera or not. They do their metering the same way, so..." CreationDate="2011-03-15T00:48:01.643" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="14080" PostId="8161" Score="1" Text="The lack of TTL optical viewfinder is not what makes taking pictures outdoors difficult, it's just the lack of a viewfinder at all.  But many u4/3 cameras do have a built-in or optional electronic viewfinder, which work fine in daylight." CreationDate="2011-03-15T01:09:13.407" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14081" PostId="8173" Text="How is this a drawback to a DSLR?  If you buy DX format lenses in Nikon you will won't be able to use those lenses full-frame - same with Canon equivalents.  Unless you are referring to the fact that full-frame cameras can crop to the APS-C size when attaching such a lens, which isn't really an advantage but does give a bit of an upgrade path.  Olympus/Panasonic are happy with 4/3 sensors even at pro level though." CreationDate="2011-03-15T01:12:41.640" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14082" PostId="9789" Text="E-PL2 is Olympus' most low-end micro four thirds model currently available.  But it does have some impressive not-so-low-end features like remote flash triggering." CreationDate="2011-03-15T01:15:29.497" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14084" PostId="9783" Score="1" Text="I liked the bit about the garage door" CreationDate="2011-03-15T01:30:10.617" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14085" PostId="8800" Text="I've begun working on a new page that can read the serial number for some camera models based on the FileAPI demo you mentioned, thanks! : http://www.stolencamerafinder.com/exifreader.jsp" CreationDate="2011-03-15T01:36:03.700" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="14086" PostId="8173" Text="I'm just saying if you buy a camera with an m4/3 mount, you can't buy any lenses that will eventually also work on a full-frame version of the same camera (since by definition the 4/3 camera already has as large a sensor as can work with that smaller mount)." CreationDate="2011-03-15T01:41:17.470" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="14087" PostId="9792" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What are the disadvantages of a Micro 4/3s camera versus a DSLR?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8159/what-are-the-disadvantages-of-a-micro-4-3s-camera-versus-a-dslr)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T02:02:52.907" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14088" PostId="9792" Text="I think this is _mostly_ a duplicate of the above-mentioned post. But maybe you could make it more specific? But not so specific as to be useless to others. :) What field of view do you normally shoot with on your long hikes?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T02:06:13.590" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14089" PostId="9791" Text="A low ceiling of cloud that the sun peaks under (like this shot) can do amazing things. The cloud functions as a giant reflector spreading unique pink-orange hues." CreationDate="2011-03-15T02:42:08.970" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14090" PostId="9792" Text="Am I right in assuming you mean the size difference of the gear itself?  It seems that these initial answers assume you're talking about sensor size, not lugging-around weight." CreationDate="2011-03-15T02:42:34.303" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="14091" PostId="8159" Score="4" Text="I think it might be best to combine this question with the original you linked. Unless there is a compelling reason to keep them separate, I'll merge this into the original." CreationDate="2011-03-15T02:45:36.130" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14092" PostId="9769" Text="Interesting effect :)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T02:57:01.033" UserId="323" />
  <row Id="14093" PostId="9792" Text="@mmr has a point...I definitely read that as &quot;sensor size difference&quot;. Didn't even think about camera size difference." CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:01:12.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14094" PostId="9791" Text="Awesome shot... though I was thinking about mountains much closer &amp; higher." CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:16:05.450" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14095" PostId="9791" Text="@Craig: At a distance, or in the mountains themselves, what I stated still holds true. If you were smack in the middle of the mountains, those clouds wouldn't have looked any different, they would have still been a brilliant orange. You might have lost a little bit of the yellowing of the sky, as your line of sight would be much narrower. This shot was taken about 15-20 minutes after sunset...closer to sunset, the sky was MUCH yellower, and the clouds were less saturated. Trade-offs, regardless of where you are." CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:19:54.167" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14096" PostId="9791" Text="Good point. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:24:02.853" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14097" PostId="9792" Text="There are two important clues: the &quot;sensor-size&quot; tag and the fact that &quot;APS-C&quot; specifically refers to the size of a sensor, not a format/mount/system." CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:32:39.780" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14098" PostId="8159" Text="Would it be possible to merge the answers too, or would the below answer by Itai be lost?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:37:34.610" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14099" PostId="9750" Text="I may just be daft, but the linked example (the cat) doesn't use any flash, and is shot in very low light at ISO 12800 - what's the connection?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T03:41:38.863" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14100" PostId="8233" Text="Probably, but don't look at me for the formula ;)  I think it would depend not only on the field of view of the fisheye and the aspect ratio, but also on just *how* distorted the fisheye is.  I doubt that one 10.5mm fisheye would have the same distortion as another 10.5mm fisheye." CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:00:06.983" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14101" PostId="8159" Text="@jrista, agreed, and perhaps retitle the other one? @thomasrutter, I think that's possible and I agree it's important." CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:00:38.213" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="14102" PostId="9792" Text="@mmr, yes, I'm referring to bulk, not sensor size. Thanks for catching that. I will clarify." CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:02:06.543" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="14104" PostId="8159" Text="A merger would keep all answers. I would have to manually re-craft the title and body of the question." CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:16:18.347" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14106" PostId="9766" Text="Is it at all possible to light the print?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:23:41.110" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14108" PostId="8159" Score="1" Text="Ok, thanks for that!" CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:34:53.460" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14109" PostId="9792" Score="1" Text="&quot;APS-C&quot; actually refers to a sensor size.  Did you mean &quot;DSLR&quot; instead then?  Consider the Sony NEX cameras which are mirrorless but use an APS-C sensor..." CreationDate="2011-03-15T04:36:10.713" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14110" PostId="8173" Text="Yep.  But Olympus/Panasonic chose not to go down the &quot;full frame&quot; route at all - if you thought that was important you'd go Nikon or Canon.  I personally would advise to get the camera that suits you best today, rather than one you hope to grow into later.  The second hand market (especially for lenses) is healthy and makes switching systems not too painful." CreationDate="2011-03-15T05:11:20.623" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14111" PostId="9750" Text="errrr, maybe not the best link.  He usually writes about using flash and often talks about 'bright pixels are sharp pixels' so I grabbed the first link that mentioned the phrase and just assumed it involved a flash. Hmmm.  Okay, maybe that's a better link.  (Though I'm still surprised no one's written a good answer about lighting.)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T05:17:54.640" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14112" PostId="8173" Text="I strongly agree with the last point, it's not too hard to sell gear these days.  I just wanted to present it as a possible issue to consider depending on where a person thinks they might go." CreationDate="2011-03-15T05:53:06.500" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="14113" PostId="9778" Text="that'd fall under the &quot;sensationalist&quot; heading...&#xA;And most tabloids (the only &quot;publications&quot; really interested in those, have their own vermin stalking celebrities with cameras 24/7 just to get such shots and email them to their editors within seconds of taking (or faking) them." CreationDate="2011-03-15T06:18:05.667" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14114" PostId="8161" Text="About dust on the sensor: I've had much more issues with my Nikon D40 than my Olympus E-P2.  Whether it is Olympus' dust removal system (my Nikon has no such thing) or the increased distance between infrared filter and sensor plane, dust gathers less and affects the image less on my Micro 4/3 camera.  Granted I am comparing a 4 year old Nikon with a ~1 year old Olympus design - but nonetheless you can't say categorically that a Micro 4/3 is more susceptible to dust." CreationDate="2011-03-15T06:46:21.637" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14115" PostId="9769" Text="This is a really unusual and striking way of presenting a shot!" CreationDate="2011-03-15T07:45:21.140" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="14116" PostId="9766" Text="its possible but not something I am prepared to do at the moment." CreationDate="2011-03-15T08:31:28.950" UserId="823" />
  <row Id="14117" PostId="9757" Text="@Tristan: Check my answer. I hope you're not angry for I manipulated your photo a bit to make it an even better example of extremely sharp eyes." CreationDate="2011-03-15T10:16:08.160" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14118" PostId="9801" Score="1" Text="Welcome Randell. No need to apologize for questions here — that's what the site is for. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T11:05:20.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14119" PostId="9788" Text="The EOS 40D apparently has diagonal sensors for the center point: »Additionally the center point is now twice as sensitive as any other point with lenses of F2.8 or faster and has cross-type sensors set at forty-five degrees.« (dpreview.com)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T11:05:24.593" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="14120" PostId="9788" Text="@Joey — thanks. Edited and added some more info." CreationDate="2011-03-15T11:34:00.517" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14121" PostId="9792" Text="@thomas, no, because full-frame DSLRs are bigger than APS-C DSLRs and the latter is specifically what I'm interested in comparing with. Do you have an alternative tag? Sorry for the confusion." CreationDate="2011-03-15T12:33:30.043" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="14122" PostId="9792" Text="By the way, @jrista, @jerry, @thomasrutter - I am sorry to sow so much confusion and I do really appreciate the effort you put into answering the question you (legitimately) thought I was asking." CreationDate="2011-03-15T12:40:23.330" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="14125" PostId="9792" Text="Since it got lost in the confusion, I'm gonna repeat myself. :) This is going to depend on what lenses you plan to carry. The Panasonic GH2 + 100-300mm lens weighs 912g; the APS-C Pentax K-r + 40mm pancake weighs 634g. (Of course, the GH2 + pancake is less.)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T12:47:05.683" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14126" PostId="9532" Text="@labnut: I added example images that I hope will be of much help." CreationDate="2011-03-15T12:53:35.963" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14127" PostId="9533" Text="@Ital: I'm hardly convincing myself not to cut my fingers off when I set this lens to f2.8 :)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T12:56:43.107" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14128" PostId="9792" Text="@mattdm, I was thinking about more or less comparable kits in general. For example, the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 weighs 150g, the Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 weighs 100g; the D90 714g, the Olympus E-P2 440 with viewfinder 410g; my Nikkor 70-300 D 505g, the Panasonic 520g 520g (and maybe there would be a better comparable for that pair - that's just the one I looked up). My question pretty much is: I've done the math, but what do people who've actually used both think?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:00:35.590" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="14129" PostId="9797" Score="1" Text="But do the Sony NEX lenses also end up with reduced weight/bulk?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:17:50.107" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14130" PostId="9792" Text="Since the original question has been rephrased to be &quot;pros/cons&quot;, and since weight/size is the major &quot;pro&quot;, _and_ since you don't have any good answers here yet :) I think this should now definitely be closed as duplicate." CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:20:01.570" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14131" PostId="9797" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: Yes (unless you use an adapter to fit a full-size lens, of course). At least so far, the overall size/weight of camera/lens is on a par with u4/3rds. The minimal size difference that others have pointed out also means there's relatively little gain in terms of lens size/weight." CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:37:58.117" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14132" PostId="9797" Text="Well okay then. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:38:39.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14133" PostId="9808" Score="1" Text="Honestly this is too subjective. The lens you need depends on how **you see** the world. We can't tell you much that is meaningful to you. The hint **you** have is the number of times you were composing a shot and wished you could go wider." CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:52:35.320" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14134" PostId="8159" Text="Looks like we have a mess here now ;) We have expanded a question with an already accepted answer and there are answers for different halves of the question now, which will most likely confuse future readers. As @jrista pointed out, I now have two answers here and do not seem to have the 'merge' privilege or simply don't know how to do it :(" CreationDate="2011-03-15T13:59:47.687" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14135" PostId="9808" Score="1" Text="As @Itai noted, this is really subjective.  You might be able to turn this into a more meaningful question by rephrasing it as &quot;what are the usual uses for a super-wide angle lens&quot; but as written there definitely isn't any 'right' answer." CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:13:18.337" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14136" PostId="9808" Score="1" Text="If you want to 'fit more in', use your feet and move back further! Improve your skills, not your kit." CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:13:28.587" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14137" PostId="9808" Score="1" Text="@Itai, thanks for the comment. I know the question title seems subjective and so as most non-knowledge-oriented photography discussions. However I try to express myself on my expectation and trying to found out whether the designated lens is designed so. An alternative question (and maybe am branching it) will be &quot;is wider coverage the better in landscape photography&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:14:51.253" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="14138" PostId="9708" Text="See also this question which may be of some use: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8236/whats-a-good-strategy-for-choosing-what-to-keep" CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:17:37.407" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14139" PostId="9808" Text="@ElendilTheTall +1. That's one of the response I heard, which paused my purchase decision. Not having the ultr-wide shouldn't be an excuse for not able to find the right view for landscape." CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:18:06.270" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="14140" PostId="9810" Text="By &quot;analog&quot;, do you mean film, or are you including (or do you just mean) electronic analog photography?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:31:13.620" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14141" PostId="9805" Text="Nope, not angry. However, the point of posting an unedited image was to show what was possible without post processing. My answer includes a link to an edited version." CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:57:26.643" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14142" PostId="9757" Score="1" Text="Nope, not angry. However, the point of posting an unedited image was to show what was possible without post processing. My answer includes a link to an edited version." CreationDate="2011-03-15T14:59:22.320" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14143" PostId="9808" Score="2" Text="@ElendilTheTall - It's not always possible to take more distance and when it _is_ possible, it doesn't necessarily give the same effect as using a wider angle lens. I agree that you should improve your skills, but sometimes you need more than skills." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:00:15.127" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="14144" PostId="9786" Text="The principle of the cross point remains the same though (whether the method of focus detection is contrast or phase) which is the subject of the question." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:08:13.437" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="14145" PostId="9757" Text="-1 for opening the lens up all the way.  While this can increase some relative sharpness because of the shallow DoF, almost all lenses are softer when fully open.  Stopping down slightly can still retain alot of the shallow depth of field, but increase the actual sharpness." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:12:22.630" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14146" PostId="9752" Text="Selective sharpening on the eyes may bring out more detail on eyes that are already in focus well, but sharpening a blurry spot just makes it look worse IMO." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:14:34.580" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14147" PostId="9808" Score="1" Text="@rockacola - I tried to find some more certain advice. I understand it is needed, I just spent 3 hours yesterday teaching students about how to think about their subjects and I see them again in a few hours." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:15:16.100" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14148" PostId="9786" Text="Okay, but what uses contrast-based focus detection with cross-type (or linear) sensors? Don't they usually use a high-pass filter reading from an image sensor?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:16:51.487" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14149" PostId="9810" Text="@mattdm I mean film.. what is electronic analog photography?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:28:16.363" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="14150" PostId="9810" Text="@eWolf: the sensors in digital cameras are actually analog devices. The signal is read and converted to digital levels. But that step isn't strictly necessary — one could simply work with the analog signals for the whole process. This isn't as exotic as you might think — consider pre-digital television." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:35:15.943" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14151" PostId="9809" Text="You may already know this, but I found these comments on &quot;buffered&quot; papers helpful: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/02/how-to-display-inkjet-prints.html " CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:41:32.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14152" PostId="9813" Score="1" Text="@Itai, this is very comprehensive, thanks for further elaborate on your perspective!" CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:42:39.120" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="14153" PostId="9805" Text="@Tristan: It does yes. But to my opinion it doesn't differ so much from an unedited version because they're not side by side for comparison reasons." CreationDate="2011-03-15T15:53:30.967" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14155" PostId="9757" Text="Yes, sharpness is technically greater when the lens is stopped down. One sentence in ashtee's original question stands out to me: &quot;The eyes are the highlight of those pictures.&quot; It is relative sharpness he is talking about- a combination of technical sharpness and the viewer's attention. This is why you would want to open the lens up in this case and sacrifice some technical sharpness for increased viewer attention." CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:03:31.737" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14156" PostId="9805" Text="The side-by-side is nice. " CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:26:29.047" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14157" PostId="9810" Text="@mattdm Never thought of that.. But seems logical now :) Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:44:53.823" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="14158" PostId="9818" Text="Perhaps I stand corrected.  After you've done this, can you then export the resulting &quot;Framed&quot; image?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:53:12.317" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14159" PostId="9757" Text="It isn't necessary to have maximum DoF to have good relative sharpness.  Even your example is stopped down to 2.0 from 1.4. " CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:13:54.173" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14160" PostId="8236" Text="Isn't this question the same as http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/7130/1368 (How many photos should I keep)?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:24:41.930" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14161" PostId="9792" Score="1" Text="As a compulsive mountain hiker I know that this is an important question :) Considering the weight of my backpack, the small weight differences you mention are not important. Bulk though, is important, but you know your needs best. But, most importantly, in the mountains it gets wet, so weather resistance is vital, which is why I carry a Pentax K-7. And in hot weather, as I have watched my sweat drip onto my camera, I have been also grateful for its weather resistance." CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:37:24.337" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14162" PostId="9813" Score="1" Text="@Itai, I really like your answer. With my own shooting I ran into an issue where a 12mm lens created images with so much chromatic aberration that they were unusable. With the technologies available today I am sure lenses are much better than they were 10 years ago, but I believe physics will still get in the way of ultra-wide angle lenses producing images that are as edge-to-edge sharp as a wide angle lens." CreationDate="2011-03-15T17:39:23.103" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="14163" PostId="9708" Text="@thomasrutter, these are certainly similar, but I think the other question is more focused on deleting unwanted images." CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:15:12.647" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="14164" PostId="9532" Text="I can almost guarantee that the focus is off -- the DoF is the same in front of and behind the chart's focus point in your f/2.8 example shot, and the 14mm line in front is apparently sharper than the 14mm line behind. Whether that's an isolated instance or a general problem with this particular lens (not the design, but the calibration of this one lens) I can't say, but it sure does look more like a focus error than optical mushiness to me." CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:26:54.380" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14165" PostId="9745" Text="I just noticed that I counted sensels wrong in my animated image. In the first two steps, it doesn't combine 8 sensels...it combines 28 sensels into 8 pixels. In the final two steps, it combines 14 sensels into 4 pixels. Sorry for the discrepancy. I'll try to fix it soon." CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:50:55.677" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14166" PostId="9532" Text="Stan Rogers: You're probably right about focus calibration (unfortunately my camera doesn't support lens micro adjustment which would help in this scenario), but that would mean that some other side line would be in focus. But is not. Even though it looks like that the most focused line is 4mm line. But it still has this grey halo... **Which irritates me lots.**" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:10:01.187" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14167" PostId="9786" Text="Good question :) The phase detection put in lay terms is contrast detection when you boil it down to the very basics I suppose &quot;The difference between the pattern of light and dark is analyzed&quot; the difference between light and dark is the contrast, no?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:18:50.600" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="14168" PostId="9786" Text="I suppose so. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:22:22.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14169" PostId="9807" Text="I can't comment on Jerry Coffin's edits directly, so I'll do it here.  Yes, the Olympus lenses lack IS, but that is because Olympus has sensor-based (i.e. in-camera) IS.  (Pentax also does this, by the way, and I'm guessing this lets them make slightly smaller lenses than other lenses for APS-cameras.)  And while NEX lenses may be comparable in size/weight to some m43-lenses, the smallest possible size you can make NEX lenses is going to be greater than the smallest possible size you can make m43-lenses because the latter has a smaller sensor area to cover." CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:30:26.687" UserId="4319" />
  <row Id="14170" PostId="7362" Text="@Jukka the 17-55 is closer to 50% more than the 15-85. About 750 vs 1100 USD. " CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:52:35.633" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="14171" PostId="9823" Score="2" Text="The 10-24mm lens on a Nikon D90 gives a full-frame-equivalent field-of-view of 15mm." CreationDate="2011-03-15T20:55:35.340" UserId="2910" />
  <row Id="14172" PostId="9820" Score="1" Text="I'll ge the ball rolling with some maybe-not-pertinent questions.  What kind of show is it, meaning what's their likely budget for this kind of thing?  They're probably hoping to get away with something like $5, but if the show has 5 million viewers a week, they could probably part with more." CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:12:06.467" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="14173" PostId="9820" Text="This would be for the pilot episode of a new show.  Producers are from Sex and the City." CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:16:24.633" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14174" PostId="9820" Score="1" Text="I've never done anything like this, but I would expect that the difference between $5 and $500 is nothing to a TV show. They spend more than that on coffee. $5000 and they might have to think." CreationDate="2011-03-15T21:57:31.213" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="14175" PostId="8159" Text="@Itai maybe the question should become &quot;community wiki&quot; and the accepted answer un-pinned" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:41:00.427" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14176" PostId="9820" Text="$500 was around what I was considering, but this isn't really based on any information.  Just numbers that I was throwing around in my head." CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:42:22.220" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14177" PostId="9823" Text="@Kevin Won, I used to think such way but found out that's not true as since 2003 Nikon has offered 12-24mm, a DX specialised ultra-wide equivalent to 18-36mm in Full Frame. Now with better optics 10-24mm DX (equivalent to 15-36mm) makes DX possible to shoot ultra-wide." CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:44:42.590" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="14178" PostId="9820" Text="May I ask which show?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:45:10.437" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14179" PostId="7362" Text="@rm999: Ok, I see; it was 730 vs. 970 EUR here, and 642 vs. 842 EUR at amazon.de." CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:52:50.260" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="14180" PostId="8159" Text="@Itai: There is no merge feature for answers. You just gotta do it manually." CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:56:52.483" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14181" PostId="9820" Text="Sorry Nick, I honestly do not know the name of it." CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:58:37.087" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14182" PostId="9825" Text="Thank you Rowland for the insight and information.  I appreciate the help." CreationDate="2011-03-15T22:59:10.427" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14183" PostId="9814" Text="`It's about getting all of what's &quot;out there&quot;, but also getting what's &quot;right here&quot; at your feet.` This really put me into perspective. Thank you. I use this site to help me seeing what others seeing through particular lens (http://ganref.jp/items/lens/nikon/1173/photo). Looking at landscape photos without a subject: **I don't feel there**. Does that mean I'm simply craving for extra coverage on sides and not really 'taking better pictures'?" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:04:11.477" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="14184" PostId="9822" Score="2" Text="Please note that shooting a 25-sheet box of 4x5 is not possible the first time out. You *will* waste a number of sheets learning how to load the holders -- even if you practice for weeks with a scrap sheet somebody gives you for the purpose, you're going to crease something, miss the slot on one side or miss seating the dark slide properly on something like half the first box of film. And you'll probably scrape the emulsion off of half the sheets you do expose while developing. Call it an initiation to the club." CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:12:39.467" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14185" PostId="9825" Score="8" Text="+1 for the *you'll need to stay below the cost of repeating the shot*" CreationDate="2011-03-15T23:35:59.757" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14186" PostId="9741" Text="As somebody else taking shots of an active 2.5 year old....a good flash unit helps **immensely**." CreationDate="2011-03-16T01:13:09.873" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14187" PostId="9828" Text="Even w/an SSD I still get pw0ned by disk intensive tasks :p" CreationDate="2011-03-16T01:34:16.453" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="14188" PostId="8159" Text="@jrista - OK done. No way to merge votes I guess :) I manually requested deletion for the answer that was merged from the other question." CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:31:53.673" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14189" PostId="8159" Text="No way to merge votes, however deleting the other answer shouldn't detract those votes from your total. They should still be there, just not grouped with the other answer." CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:34:25.637" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14190" PostId="8159" Score="1" Text="I guess this could be made CW, since its a merger of two questions. It probably should have been CW to begin with, given the nature of the question anyway. Naysayers?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:35:34.497" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14191" PostId="9822" Score="1" Text="@stan: good point. Not to mention the ruined negs from dust and hair in exactly the wrong spot. But these are the sorts of things someone who would bother with this would want to learn, right? I should have said 'attempt to shoot a 25 sheet box'" CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:55:37.163" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="14192" PostId="8159" Score="1" Text="+1 to CW. And then delete all of these comments because they're an ugly, off-topic mess." CreationDate="2011-03-16T02:57:48.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14193" PostId="9820" Text="Some people would *pay* large amounts of money for their work to appear in a TV show.  Advertisers, for example." CreationDate="2011-03-16T03:20:37.643" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14194" PostId="8236" Text="@labnut, this question's more concerned about how to do the selection of what to keep.  Not whether to keep any or how many to keep." CreationDate="2011-03-16T03:22:55.660" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14195" PostId="9703" Text="I think the use of dark colors for photo/video editing software is more a matter of utility than anything. I would not want to work in a white program for hours on end when doing any video or photo work...I'd go blind. However, from a *design* perspective, its ultimately a matter of style, and mid-tone gray is not definitively the &quot;best&quot; or &quot;correct&quot; background to use." CreationDate="2011-03-16T04:28:46.973" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14196" PostId="9808" Score="1" Text="You might want to look at my answer to the following question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6380/ef-s-18-55mm-kit-vs-10-22mm-f-3-5-4-5-for-nature-photography/6385#6385" CreationDate="2011-03-16T05:30:45.047" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14197" PostId="9826" Text="Oh boy I feel your pain. I'm in a similar situation, after importing thousands of JPEG files I had properly (and heavily) tagged on Flickr. The keyword UI in LR is really difficult and slow to use, even with a hierarchical structure. Keywords are, however, stored just like the rest of LR's data, in its SQLite database (i.e. the LR catalog). I contemplated writing a small app in Qt to manipulate the keywords, but the issue is that I also need to see the corresponding photos when I cleanup or reorganize my keywords, say, to see if that keyword is really needed or properly applied for example." CreationDate="2011-03-16T05:45:02.420" UserId="1273" />
  <row Id="14198" PostId="5004" Text="LCD monitors with their backlighting are indeed excessively bright. This causes major eyestrain (which can lead to permanent damage to the eyes over time).&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-16T06:22:56.750" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14199" PostId="9822" Text="+1 just for style :)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T06:30:09.677" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="14200" PostId="9810" Score="1" Text="+1 for this question, because of the quality of the answers it has inspired!" CreationDate="2011-03-16T06:34:19.063" UserId="1812" />
  <row Id="14201" PostId="9823" Text="no need, Kevin. how wide is wide? The &quot;wide look&quot; isn't changed by sensor size. After all, the telephoto compression remains the same, all that changes is that the image produced by a DX/APS size sensor is cropped in relation to its 35mm equivalent (which itself is cropped in relation to its MF and LF equivalents). " CreationDate="2011-03-16T07:40:35.543" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14202" PostId="9823" Text="&lt;cntd&gt;There is no &quot;focal length multiplier&quot;, the very name is a marketing tool and a technical lie. It's a crop factor. Take an image with a lens on a DX size sensor, shoot the same position with the same lens at the same focal length with a 35mm size sensor and you can overlay the one on the other exactly." CreationDate="2011-03-16T07:41:03.283" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14203" PostId="9709" Text="no Drew. It depends on the audience. If you're shooting for a technical jury, you're right. If you're shooting holiday snapshots for your children, technical perfection is irrelevant. If you're shooting a wedding for a friend, it's relevant but less so than were you shooting it for pay for a stranger. If you're shooting a reportage for a travel website it's less relevant compared to shooting the same reportage for National Geographic for inclusion in their magazine." CreationDate="2011-03-16T07:45:01.000" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14204" PostId="9831" Score="1" Text="Very nice picture. Try to perfect it by leveling the horizon." CreationDate="2011-03-16T07:59:27.110" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14205" PostId="9836" Score="1" Text="Get something with IS as you'll be shooting non-moving subjects and indoor, you'll need it. 70-200mm f/2.8 IS should be a good choice if you can manage." CreationDate="2011-03-16T10:52:28.753" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="14206" PostId="9838" Text="Hi VKVK, thanks for sharing your experience. " CreationDate="2011-03-16T11:46:20.803" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="14207" PostId="9839" Text="Hi ysap, thanks for sharing. Much appreciated." CreationDate="2011-03-16T11:46:38.477" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="14208" PostId="9837" Text="Hi ElendilTheTall, thanks for sharing. Your points make lots of sense to a newbie that I am. Together with the other responses, it's clear a 24-70 mm is the way to go as the default lens. Thanks again." CreationDate="2011-03-16T11:48:23.810" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="14209" PostId="9703" Text="No it is not. I've worked as a designer of video-effect software for 9 years and the choice was based on studies which determined that midtone grey least affects our perception of color and contrast. From a design perspective it may look dull which is most likely why websites tend to choose other colors." CreationDate="2011-03-16T13:00:13.370" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14210" PostId="9834" Text="@jwenting, Thanks for the comment. Before this question I always thought landscape photography meaning wide or ultra-wide angle pictures, but now I don't I should not falsely believe **wider is better landscape**. Also, can I assume the first photo of yours is with 500mm while 2nd one is 20mm?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T13:15:49.130" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="14211" PostId="9826" Text="I'm not too worried about the photo association - I just want to heirarchy-ize the keywords, leaving them associated with their respective photos." CreationDate="2011-03-16T14:16:58.187" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14212" PostId="950" Text="@Rowland: Is there any camera that shoots RAW and does *not* embed a JPEG preview inside the RAW file?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T15:09:32.307" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="14214" PostId="9789" Text="@matt, sure; will edit." CreationDate="2011-03-16T15:20:49.723" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="14215" PostId="9703" Text="Right, which lends to what I said...its a matter of utility. Its not bright, so it doesn't burn the eyes, and its neutral, so it doesn't affect our perception of what were working on. The OP was about a poster with photos displayed on it, which is a DESIGN thing, not a utility thing, in which case the ideal color could vary depending on the type of photography being displayed. I don't think we disagree, really." CreationDate="2011-03-16T15:52:10.850" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14217" PostId="950" Text="@Jukka, @Reid According to [dcraw](http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/dcraw.1.html) *some* cameras store the thumbnail as a PPM format image. I seem to remember that CRW format raw files do not have a thumbnail - on cameras using this format, they use a sidecar .THM file instead" CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:28:56.553" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="14218" PostId="9853" Text="If you had waited another second before you deleted this from physics.SE a moderator would have migrated it for you, but this works fine as well." CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:39:40.227" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14219" PostId="9855" Score="1" Text="Unfortunately, you have your formula a bit wrong. It says (for example) that starting from f/1.4 and going to f/4.5, you'd *reduce* the ISO to ~10 to compensate. I believe you wanted `4.5/X` instead of `X/4.5`." CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:57:10.010" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14220" PostId="9855" Text="Wait. Are ISO linear or logarithimic or exponential wrt light sensitivity ?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:58:11.367" UserId="4333" />
  <row Id="14221" PostId="8497" Text="I was actually referring to the 3D render of the light fixture itself...not the photo of you. Sorry about the confusion. The photo looks superb!" CreationDate="2011-03-16T17:58:51.023" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14222" PostId="9855" Text="@Jerry Coffin is correct, you need to invert your fraction. It should be DestinationAperture/StartingAperture. As is, your formula results in a final ISO of 10 with a *slower* aperture (about 1/3rd of the original.) It should result in a higher ISO of 1033 (about 3 times that of the original), which would correlate with the slower aperture. " CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:04:27.757" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14223" PostId="9855" Text="@Andrei: Technically, both. The ISO standard actually includes *both* what was previously the ASA number *and* what was previously the DIN number -- but nearly everybody ignores the DIN-like number and just uses the ASA-like number, which you have to multiply/divide to work in stops." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:05:50.813" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14225" PostId="9855" Text="@Jerry: Maybe I've misunderstood something, but if you get an ISO of 100 at f/4.5, then go to f/1.4, your aperture has gotten bigger, so the ISO should go down. My equation would predict an ISO of 9.68, which is appropriately smaller than the 100 ISO you used at f/4.5." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:20:08.960" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14226" PostId="9855" Text="I forgot to mention in my answer, I am assuming that the ISO scale is linear. I could be wrong about that. If so, let me know and I'll certainly edit the answer." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:20:59.443" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14227" PostId="9855" Text="@Colik K: As far as I could tell, he was starting at the wider aperture, and then moving to the narrower aperture. Either way, if you follow Destination/Starting, you end up with the correct formula. You just have to plug in the constants into the right variables. The formula would be: ISO = StartISO * (DestAperture/StartAperture)^2. (I will say, it would be NICE to have LaTeX formatting here...we do enough math that I think its warranted!)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:24:26.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14228" PostId="9858" Score="2" Text="There is noting wrong with this answer, but I do want to point out a very important distinction that you've left somewhat foggy. There is a diference between the f-number, and an f-stop. f-stops are indeed spaced by sqrt(2), such that the exposure changes by a factor of 2 between stops. However, this is simply a convention by camera manufacturers that makes calculation simple for photographers. Really, a lens can be built to have any f-number, not just those sqrt(2) spaced values we are accustomed to. " CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:25:35.943" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14229" PostId="9858" Score="2" Text="Even more importantly, the ISO or f-number scale is not itself exponential. It is actually the spacing between the settings on your camera which are exponentially SPACED. As an example o what I mean, ISO 156 is exactly 1.56 times more sensitive than ISO 100, but a change of one &quot;stop&quot; up from ISO 100 would be ISO 200. The ISO value itself is linear in sensitivity. It is the convention we call an exposure &quot;stop&quot; which is in fact exponential." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:28:47.860" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14231" PostId="9855" Text="@jrista: I think one of us is missing something. As I read the formula you just posted, it matches mine exactly." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:30:12.867" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14232" PostId="9858" Text="@Colin K: Technically true, but talking about f/stops that aren't in powers of two is a bit like reminding people to bring enough food and water for their horses if they go on a long trip. I very carefully didn't say the ISO number itself was exponential -- only that they *work* exponentially, and explained exactly what I meant by that (multiplying or dividing by a fixed factor gives a fixed change in terms of stops)." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:32:16.220" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14233" PostId="9854" Score="1" Text="Tangential thought: This is one reason why good backup software would do well to include SHA1 (or similar) checksums of your files. You'd still be out of luck if you overwrote a backup, but maybe the software could warn you before you get to that point. " CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:33:24.103" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="14234" PostId="9855" Text="@Colin K: what you're missing (or getting backwards) is that the question says f/1.x is the *starting* point, and f/4.5 is the *destination*." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:35:11.677" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14235" PostId="9858" Score="1" Text="@Jerry: I suppose so, and like I said your answer is not wrong. I'm an optical engineer with a side interest in photography, so it made me die a little on the inside to read that &quot;ISO numbers and shutter speeds both work exponentially&quot; when is is only &quot;stops&quot; which are exponential. But this isn't an engineering stackexchange so, its not really a big deal." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:35:45.077" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14236" PostId="9855" Text="@Jerry: OH! Yes you are completely correct, sorry about that. Edit coming in a moment." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:38:27.947" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14237" PostId="9855" Text="@Colin K: just as an aside, though it doesn't accept LaTeX, it does accept the HTML `&lt;sup&gt;` to get a superscript..." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:41:31.547" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14238" PostId="9855" Text="@Jerry: Cool, I'll remember that. And thanks for the edit as well :)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:43:01.407" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="14239" PostId="8497" Text="@jrista: The fixture picture itself is a snap. Undefendable as art or photography, but it was good enough to serve the purpose (and I didn't want to wake anyone up at that hour of the morning setting up a real shot). And thanks -- that was a test shot for the diffuser material I was using. (At $1.49 for a 54x108&quot; piece, I immediately bought a whole lot more.) I usually shoot people a lot less ugly than myself (my skin is really bad, I'm bald, wear thick glasses and have one of *those* noses) so when I can get an acceptable shot of me I know I'm on the right track." CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:44:49.750" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14240" PostId="9855" Text="@Colin K: surely. It is definitely a pain that nearly SE site uses a slightly different version of Morkdown (and even on one site, answers and comments are often different from each other too...)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:45:09.720" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14241" PostId="2603" Score="1" Text="Image compression works at the subject level as well. It's not that the lens distorts anything, but that you are further from your subject for a given magnification, so the difference in distance between your camera and the subject's nose and eyes (for example) is *proportionally* much less than if you'd shot the same subject from much closer using a shorter lens. That's why teles are used in tight portraiture and beauty -- you shoot from where the subject looks best and use the lens (rather than your feet) to fill the frame." CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:20:07.760" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14242" PostId="8497" Text="Oh, and my eyes are permanently bloodshot from years of working with harsh chemicals -- not even Visine can get the red out. Photoshop can, of course, but I save that kind of thing for pictures I make of other people. I tells ya, it's a good thing I'm charming as all-get-out :o)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:31:13.220" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14243" PostId="950" Text="@Reid: Just for the record: How much offset do you usually use when bracketing? is it 0.3, 0.5, 0.7, 1.0 or even more?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:56:23.127" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14244" PostId="9865" Text="Can you post it somewhere that doesn't remove EXIF data?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:09:29.370" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14245" PostId="9853" Score="1" Text="See the similar question at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4157/1356 (&quot;Manual photography cheat sheet...&quot;)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:19:37.240" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="14246" PostId="9866" Text="Hi Matt, thanks for the good idea, but I just checked and the jpg compression is set to three stars. Can you recommend a service for uploading images? I was thinking of my dropbox, but then the link would be gone after a while." CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:20:39.720" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14247" PostId="9866" Text="&gt; Was this converted from RAW by extracting the preview JPEG? -- That sounds like a bad thing to do. Where would I find the option for that?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:27:56.337" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14248" PostId="9866" Text="Or what would be the name of that option?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:28:39.553" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14249" PostId="9866" Text="You would know, I think. If you're just copying JPEG files off of the camera, that's not it. But the file you posted _definitely_ is saved with quite low compression. Do all of the pictures come out like this?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:35:51.470" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14250" PostId="9866" Text="Hmmm, I also notice that it's a 6mpix (3072x2048) image, not the camera's full 12mpix. Is the camera set to that as well?" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:38:14.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14251" PostId="9866" Text="I just import the photos into iphoto.... :/ But I have set the resolution to 6mpix as I don't need that high resolution and I hoped that I would get less ISO noise." CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:45:59.767" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14252" PostId="9866" Text="One more thing, I have the impression, that there are less artifacts, when I use the green automatic modus. But I am not sure, as I don't have good examples." CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:50:35.800" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14253" PostId="9866" Text="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/605571/IMGP1612.JPG" CreationDate="2011-03-16T22:57:06.933" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14254" PostId="9866" Text="Okay, that one shows a low (i.e. high-quality) JPEG compression level. So that's not it. But it does show the obvious color degradation, which can be quantified: there's 6,291,456 pixels in the image, and only 54,164 unique colors. (Which _could_ be right for a very monotonous image, but clearly isn't enough here.)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T23:03:18.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14255" PostId="9866" Text="As an aside, setting to 6mpix won't really reduce noise, but will discard detail and make jpeg artifacts worse. That's a separate question. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-16T23:08:48.743" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14257" PostId="9866" Text="I also note you're using the &quot;Muted&quot; image tone, and have Shadow Compensation set to &quot;Strong&quot;. Can you set it to &quot;Natural&quot; image tone and turn off Shadow Compensation? This combination could be causing the issue in dark scenes like this." CreationDate="2011-03-16T23:13:15.540" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14258" PostId="9866" Score="3" Text="Yes, mattdm! The Shadow Compensation made the images much 'brighter' but also caused the banding and the artifacts. Thank you for your time and effort!" CreationDate="2011-03-16T23:37:27.910" UserId="4337" />
  <row Id="14259" PostId="9854" Text="@lindes: or to put it another way, with my sysadmin hat on: simply copying your files to another drive does not create a backup." CreationDate="2011-03-17T00:57:13.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14261" PostId="9871" Text="Nitpicks are best left to comments, rather than answers. Answers should only provide useful insight or actual answers to a question. You can't post comments until you have 50 reputation. I'll give you an upvote on this to give you a head start (and offset the down-vote), but try to rep up to 50 so you can post comments. Then feel free to nit pick all you want. ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:52:33.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14262" PostId="9871" Text="You also might want to delete this (or I can delete it for you) to prevent further downvotes...which would subtract reputation." CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:53:37.010" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14263" PostId="9871" Score="1" Text="Upvoted to bring back to zero -- a user with a rep of 1 (as Louie currently has) cannot make comments on other answers, so even though this *isn't* a proper answer, it was the only way he could comment." CreationDate="2011-03-17T01:55:58.873" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14264" PostId="2305" Score="1" Text="I think this is best reason. Image quality or gear quality has nothing to do with the response a photo creates in its viewers. Technical &quot;correctness&quot; and image quality are not always the be all and end all." CreationDate="2011-03-17T02:14:17.793" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14265" PostId="2100" Text="I think you're missing a possible reason. Money. Trying to sell a DSLR high quality photo is much easier than a crappy iPhone photo, to say a newsletter or something. I gather it's also because they would have hired or given media passes to their own professionals to do precisely that. I could also throw in the argument of &quot;go and enjoy the damn show.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-17T02:17:15.840" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14266" PostId="9854" Text="Checksums would not do too much good here. NEF contain legitimate EXIF and I write my GPS into it.&#xA;Of course, incremental backups would have helped. Sometimes I'm not very thorough, normally I apply three backup stages ... :)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:48:52.227" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="14267" PostId="10" Text="These can also double as flash clamps, though I wouldn't get anything less than the SLR model for this. (I tried getting an original to hold my flash. Didn't work.)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:50:36.790" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14268" PostId="9872" Text="The hard way comparing EXIF to EXIF in NEF. I guess it will come to that, there is one file I'd like to reprocess (else I wouldn't have asked at all, lost is lost)." CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:51:30.290" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="14269" PostId="9834" Text="@rockacola - it looks like it's the other way around -- the sun(set?), with the sun appearing so large against the distant scrub, is a telephoto; the creek, with the tall foreground grass, is a moderate wide angle." CreationDate="2011-03-17T03:59:29.270" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14270" PostId="9871" Text="... and I'll update the answer to correct the error pointed out by Louie." CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:03:17.527" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14271" PostId="9801" Text="Cool. Thanks, @mattdm!" CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:04:05.293" UserId="3860" />
  <row Id="14273" PostId="4017" Score="1" Text="Most, if not all, SLR shutter curtains are metal these days, which would get real hot, but I seriously doubt they'd burn or warp since the mirror would be down on a SLR. Mirror lockup would increase the time light could hit the shutter but still I don't think it's long enough to hurt it. [Old Leica's had cloth curtains](http://nemeng.com/leica/025b.shtml) which were the origin of the story. " CreationDate="2011-03-17T04:15:16.050" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14274" PostId="9875" Score="1" Text="You might consider artificial lighting, it'd make the procedure simpler. A flash should do adequately, just make sure it's the in the same location, and power." CreationDate="2011-03-17T05:35:28.413" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="14275" PostId="9875" Text="@Pearsonarphoto - interesting idea, I was thinking about taking the photos during the day, but perhaps it makes more sense to do them at night with no moon. " CreationDate="2011-03-17T05:47:50.303" UserId="4341" />
  <row Id="14276" PostId="9875" Score="1" Text="If you're following Pearsonartphoto's advice, you'll want to set your shutter, aperture, and ISO manually - set your shutter to your flash's sync speed (generally 1/200 to 1/320), and set your aperture and ISO as low as they can go without running out of flash power. This will get your ambient as dark as possible - a full moon should be no problem (mid-day sun, on the other hand...) For this situation, on-axis flash would be best, since it will cast the fewest shadows." CreationDate="2011-03-17T06:37:04.977" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14277" PostId="5755" Score="1" Text="+1, this is the kind of answer I like, based on solid facts and not generalised opinions. I would still be reluctant to point my camera at the sun but I can't argue with your extensive experience." CreationDate="2011-03-17T10:14:36.903" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14278" PostId="9888" Text="Google is your friend: http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/macro-lens-calcs.html - The formulae are not simple, unfortunately. Ultimately you need to know what your lens magnification is in diopters (the +1, +2, +4 etc on your extension tubes refer to how many diopters they 'add'.)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:06:30.540" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14280" PostId="9886" Score="16" Text="Don't get too hooked up on megapixels. Manufacturers would have you believe they are the be all and end all of quality, when they're really not. They simply determine how big you can print the image. To give you an idea, a 6MP image could be printed 30&quot; wide and still be perfectly acceptable from a couple of feet away - a 5x7? Perfect even close up. You could probably print a billboard with 18MP - but how and why would you do that? So, don't let a salesman convince you to part with another thousand bucks on the strength of more megapixels. Get a better lens or two instead." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:20:33.537" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14281" PostId="9889" Score="1" Text="not necessarily. Packing more sensor elements into an array of a fixed size isn't always a good idea (and with APSC/DX size sensors, anything much over 10MP is going to hit the limits of what makes sense, anything higher is just a marketing gimmick)." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:21:23.910" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14282" PostId="4017" Text="the problem isn't so much the metal shutter curtains as the mostly plastic parts they attach to. Metal gets hot, plastic gets hot, plastic warps or melts. But as you say, the shutter isn't exposed to the intense heat long enough for that to happen. The sensor however can be." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:24:45.263" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14283" PostId="9889" Text="@jwenting: That is a good point, however the size of the sensor also makes a difference. With a larger sensor you can get a higher resolution before you reach the physical limits." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:24:48.180" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="14284" PostId="2607" Text="more common? hmm... " CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:27:13.687" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14285" PostId="9854" Text="If you could email me a sample I will take a look to see what can be done.  My mail is phil at owl.phy.queensu.ca&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-16T18:33:36.113" UserId="4336" />
  <row Id="14286" PostId="9889" Score="1" Text="However, the 550D is an APS-C, not a full frame. 18MP on that size sensor is asking for noise." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:30:14.670" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14287" PostId="9883" Score="1" Text="Theoretically you could damage the sensor by shooting a closeup of a very strong lamp (e.g. 2000 watts) for a long time, but any reasonable shot is harmless." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:30:40.017" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="14288" PostId="9889" Score="2" Text="@jwenting Whilst you will start to get diminishing returns with megapixels for a fixed size sensor I don't think we've got there yet with APS-C, there is a clear difference in quality between a 10 and 18 megapixels sensor. " CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:31:04.790" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14289" PostId="9888" Text="Extension tubes don't have diopter values -- close-up filters (often called diopters) do. Extension tubes just have millimeters -- they're just empty spacers that sit between the lens and the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:38:02.083" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14290" PostId="9888" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [How to define what an extension tube does?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5603/how-to-define-what-an-extension-tube-does)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T11:59:26.280" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14292" PostId="9891" Text="If you could post a before and after that would help." CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:10:39.737" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14293" PostId="9886" Text="Canon 550D compared to what 12mp camera?" CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:22:08.613" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14294" PostId="5755" Score="2" Text="If you shoot time-lapse, most likely your LCD is off and the shutter is open for only very brief moments of time. If you are using a P&amp;S in the usual way, with the LCD on, then the shutter is open all the time while you are composing the picture, adjusting the settings, etc. It might make a huge difference whether the sun is burning the sensor for 1ms vs. half a minute." CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:30:39.140" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="14295" PostId="9885" Score="9" Text="A good rule of thumb is that if it's okay to look at it, it's okay to shoot it. That leaves out arc lamps, arc welders, plasma torches, CO2 lasers and a whole bunch of other nasty things -- unless your camera is wearing the same goggles as you'd have to wear." CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:43:38.770" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14296" PostId="9889" Text="I agree with you in principle @jwenting, but there have been advances in sensor tech on the 550D as explained here: http://www.dpreview.com/previews/CanonEOS550D/page3.asp . Either way the nature of the original poster's question suggests they don't have a great understanding of camera technology, hence my simplification." CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:46:13.127" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="14297" PostId="9885" Text="Thanks for the replies and for the great and simple answer." CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:51:52.293" UserId="4345" />
  <row Id="14298" PostId="9892" Text="Thanks for the link.  That was the information I was looking for:" CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:53:49.463" UserId="3181" />
  <row Id="14299" PostId="9889" Score="5" Text="For the vast majority of users there's no &quot;clear difference&quot; between even a 6MP and a 10MP sensor, let alone an 18MP one. They shoot their pictures, maybe tweak a bit in the software provided with their camera, and get them printed at 10x15cm or smaller. At that print size, even 6MP is more than enough (I until recently had to reduce the DPI of my images from my 12MP D200 as the full size files would literally crash the digital printing machines, says enough?&#xA;)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:10:20.157" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14300" PostId="9889" Text="Sensor tech aside, it does take more work to really get more resolution out of a higher-density sensor. Your focus has to be more accurate, and you're more susceptible to camera-shake blur. " CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:14:27.733" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14301" PostId="9878" Score="2" Text="Looks like you've missed off half your answer there?" CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:18:38.737" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="14302" PostId="9880" Score="1" Text="Conversely, a completely &quot;free&quot; and open to the public concert (such as those sometimes held in Central Park, NYC) probably couldn't impose these sorts of restrictions. " CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:20:46.980" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14303" PostId="9894" Text="Sorry to comment on my own answer, but I reread your question and want to say that I may use large (32GB) flash drives on my next trip as &quot;insurance&quot; against lost or stolen memory cards or laptop. Using a thumbdrive or two would allow for both my wife and I to carry a complete copy of all photos taken on a trip." CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:34:21.380" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="14304" PostId="9887" Text="the answer by Guffa is spot on." CreationDate="2011-03-17T13:44:02.157" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="14305" PostId="9895" Score="1" Text="Hmmm. The laptop drive is probably more fragile storage than the memory card. And the portable hard drive not much better, and while having two fragile copies is better than one......" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:16:58.093" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14306" PostId="9899" Score="1" Text="+5 if I could. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:19:54.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14307" PostId="9886" Score="2" Text="@ElendilTheTall: I agree, but I also gotta add that more megapixels are also nice because, assuming the picture is taken so to take actual advantage of them, it gives you more room to crop — you can print details rather than the whole frame." CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:39:26.943" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14308" PostId="9889" Text="@jwenting My experience is that &quot;the vast majority&quot; of people don't even print their pictures, they look at them on their computer, with or without adjustments. In which case even 6MP vs 18MP makes *no* difference because even a large monitor is only on the order of 2-2.5 MP. (For example, 1920x1200, which is the highest pixel count I've seen in regular use, works out to 2.3 MP.)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:49:41.850" UserId="1772" />
  <row Id="14309" PostId="9848" Text="+1 for mentioning Rob Galbraith's site." CreationDate="2011-03-17T15:58:43.053" UserId="4350" />
  <row Id="14310" PostId="9886" Text="Nice, but not vital. I'd rather have 3 lenses and a 12mp camera than 1 lens and 18mp." CreationDate="2011-03-17T16:01:32.827" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14311" PostId="9886" Score="1" Text="&quot;Effective&quot; is an important word here, and probably means there is some trickery going on in the camera that the manufacturer claims is going to make it &quot;like 18 Megapixels&quot;. Take that warning on top of all the others about how Megapixels don't necessarily make for quality." CreationDate="2011-03-17T16:07:18.430" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="14312" PostId="9899" Text="@mattdm - Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-17T16:19:23.300" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14313" PostId="9903" Score="5" Text="This is *hugely* important, especially for events that can't easily be restaged. If you're the reincarnation of Yousuf Karsh and a portrait session has to be cancelled, the contract would probably be *frustrated* by default because you're the unique commodity, but if you blow somebody's wedding and aren't covered in the contract, you may be giving the newlyweds a nice down payment on a house much better than your own." CreationDate="2011-03-17T16:36:30.993" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14314" PostId="9875" Score="1" Text="@Evan I disagree about on-axis flash. Reason being this:&#xA;http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9531/what-are-the-best-practices-for-taking-pictures-of-a-canvas/9551#9551&#xA;—Ways too much direct reflection. Except when using polarizers, as I described there -- but then one needs to make sure that gear stays the same and that white balance is done correctly. Polarizers change white balance." CreationDate="2011-03-17T17:09:52.043" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="14315" PostId="9893" Text="Thanks for the answer, that is complicated! I've read it through a couple of times and I'm following, going to see if I can find out the data for my lenses" CreationDate="2011-03-17T17:16:37.590" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="14316" PostId="9877" Score="1" Text="+1 to the raw processing technique. The dcraw source would be a good starting point http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/dcraw.c" CreationDate="2011-03-17T17:50:49.700" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14317" PostId="9875" Text="I believe the values in the matrix cells range from 0 to 255, not from 1." CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:03:33.600" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14318" PostId="9877" Score="1" Text="Raw Processing would make calculating green level easier, however it would make dealing with color cast considerably more complex. " CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:23:34.947" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14319" PostId="9875" Text="Can a gray card be included *in* the shot in a fixed location?" CreationDate="2011-03-17T18:27:15.303" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14320" PostId="9875" Text="@mattdm yes, a gray card could be included in each shot. would that work better than a white card?" CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:01:29.943" UserId="4341" />
  <row Id="14321" PostId="9905" Text="@Simon its not a GLOBE project, but it could be turned in to one; thanks for pointing out that site." CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:05:55.053" UserId="4341" />
  <row Id="14322" PostId="9875" Text="@Simon Reflections are a valid concern, but the example you gave is the worst-case scenario: a flat object pointed directly at the camera. [Here's a houseplant I shot, lit from on-axis and off-axis.](https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/199581_10150106008821680_570336679_6785729_7531541_n.jpg)" CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:35:14.873" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14323" PostId="9875" Text="@David a gray card would serve two purposes: color balance and exposure fine-tuning. A white card will still look white if you overexpose the shot." CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:37:43.577" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14324" PostId="9908" Score="2" Text="There's huge variety of cameras that will allow this, more information on what you want to shoot and price range would be helpful" CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:39:42.733" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14325" PostId="9887" Text="@decasteljau so is this answer - 18 definitely compares to 12 by being 50% bigger! " CreationDate="2011-03-17T20:47:21.710" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14326" PostId="9907" Score="1" Text="A bit of an update is needed here: the current top-of-the-line Phase One back (the IQ180) is full-frame 645 and 80MP; Hassy is now sitting at 60MP (using the same full-frame 645 sensor as Phase One's previous leader, the P65+). When I win the lottery (and I *will*, although the not buying tickets thing makes that a little harder) I'm definitely getting one or the other." CreationDate="2011-03-17T22:28:07.257" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14327" PostId="9908" Text="Another key question: do you want &quot;live view&quot; on the computer screen, or is simply sending control commands sufficient?" CreationDate="2011-03-17T22:47:15.443" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14328" PostId="9900" Text="As someone who owns the 12.2mp Canon 450D, and who has used a friends 18mp Canon 550D on several occasions, I can say with confidence that the newer 18mp sensor has far superior noise performance. Noise on the 450D is terrible beyond ISO400. Noise on the 550D is acceptable up to ISO1600. I would say that sensor well size is a minor factor in noise these days." CreationDate="2011-03-17T22:55:23.607" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14329" PostId="9889" Score="1" Text="@ElindilTheTall: I've used the 550D on several occasions, and I own the 12.2mp 450D myself. I can say that the noise on the 550D is FAR better than it is on the 450D. I can barely go above ISO400 before noise becomes a real problem...on the 550D, ISO1600 was very acceptable. Noise is no longer simply a factor of well size...electronic advances in photosite design have made significant gains regarding noise performance, and higher resolution no longer automatically means worse noise." CreationDate="2011-03-17T22:57:41.000" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14330" PostId="9900" Text="@jrista: yes, I was trying to say that could be the case, but after rereading it decided to edit to emphasize it more." CreationDate="2011-03-17T23:17:54.437" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14331" PostId="9887" Text="It's more like 22.5% more, as Guffa said.  It's 50 per cent more *area*, but 22.5% more resolution in each direction.  Kinda like how you'd have to go from 6 megapixels to 24 megapixels to double the resolution." CreationDate="2011-03-17T23:28:16.530" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14332" PostId="9890" Text="Indeed, if you make 4x6&quot; prints, you probably won't see the difference above about 2 megapixels (1800x1200) as that is 300ppi." CreationDate="2011-03-17T23:31:42.237" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14333" PostId="9900" Text="It's worth noting that from a technical standpoint neither the lens nor sensor are ever solely the limiting factor in the resolving power of the system. The spatial frequency response of the system is the product of the spatial frequency response of the lens and sensor, meaning that even if you have a &quot;soft&quot; lens, it will still produce sharper images with a higher resolution sensor and will continue to do so as sensor resolution increases, though by smaller increments." CreationDate="2011-03-17T23:57:16.230" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14334" PostId="9887" Text="22.5% more pixels in each dimension, but the _resolution_ increase is a more difficult question. " CreationDate="2011-03-18T01:04:15.630" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14335" PostId="9895" Text="The major benefits to the &quot;2 hard drive&quot; strategy are 1. much bigger capacity (I just bought two 750GB drives) for much less money per GB, and 2. you have two copies of the same thing (redundancy).  If you are travelling you don't want to buy a dozen $99 memory cards when you could store everything on a single $99 portable hard drive and your laptop.  2.5 inch hard drives are also very shock-resistant.  I've had more memory cards/flash drives fail than portable hard drives, and I would trust the hard drives more." CreationDate="2011-03-18T01:59:13.130" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14336" PostId="9895" Text="I don't trust either of them, which is why I like Itai's answer." CreationDate="2011-03-18T02:21:20.137" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14337" PostId="9875" Score="2" Text="Chlorophyll is brightest in the near infrared: http://www.yale.edu/ceo/Documentation/rsvegfaq.html  There are standard measures of plant &quot;greenness&quot; based on this, such as NDVI.  Thus, if you possibly can, get a camera that can record the NIR band." CreationDate="2011-03-18T04:47:33.057" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="14338" PostId="9904" Score="1" Text="+1 for specifying the copyright ownership." CreationDate="2011-03-18T05:08:58.707" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14339" PostId="9895" Text="If only broadbant was fast, cheap, and world-wide enough that we could send our originals home (or to an online storage service) where-ever we go." CreationDate="2011-03-18T06:04:54.303" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14340" PostId="9907" Text="@Stan: thx for the update, though it's probably better just to provide links to Phase1/Hasselblad and say 'check for the most recent massive sensor pixel output' since these change so quickly." CreationDate="2011-03-18T06:47:14.830" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="14341" PostId="9834" Text="yah, the sunset photo was taken at 500mm. For some reason the comments I placed with them didn't show up." CreationDate="2011-03-18T07:19:37.260" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14342" PostId="6797" Text="yes Tom, it's definitely a good sign that she wants to read your manual ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-18T07:22:45.760" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14343" PostId="9901" Text="in fact in some countries they're required by law (France used to require a release for shooting any building for any commercial use, for example, not sure if that's still the case)." CreationDate="2011-03-18T07:29:49.513" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14344" PostId="9911" Text="There's also some nifty software which runs on an iPhone / iPad to control a tethered set-up via WiFi: http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/dslr-camera-remote " CreationDate="2011-03-18T11:29:38.690" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="14345" PostId="9897" Text="Looks good, thanks." CreationDate="2011-03-18T12:44:54.897" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="14346" PostId="9872" Text="Phil offered the nice and easy way. The makernotes seem to be most important." CreationDate="2011-03-18T12:45:39.017" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="14347" PostId="9915" Score="5" Text="Is this not essentially the same as http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2297/how-to-get-manual-focus-right? Or is there something particular about this lens?" CreationDate="2011-03-18T13:29:39.593" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14348" PostId="9886" Text="@DJClayworth: a reasonable suspicion, but probably not the case here. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9738/" CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:28:42.570" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14349" PostId="9916" Score="1" Text="-1 You don't necessarily need a good lens to take advantage of extra megapixels. When people measure MTF values using charts they are measuring the MTF of the system (lens + camera). The MTF of the system is the **product** of the lens MTF and sensor MTF. This means that if you improve one the sytem MTF improves even if the other remains constant. So increasing the number of megapixels (assuming this increases sensor frequency response) will increase the resolving power of the system even with the same lens." CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:47:42.640" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14350" PostId="9916" Text="Also the colour resolution of bayer sensors lags the monochrome resolution, so having more pixels reduces Bayer artifacts and gets you closer to the output of of a full colour Foveon type sensor.&#xA;&#xA;Finally the links you posted contradict your statement as they show the 550D resolves finer horizontal detail (aliasing starts to kick in around the 26 mark) than the 450D (aliasing can be between 22 and 24)." CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:48:10.253" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14351" PostId="9889" Text="@jwenting @Michael I have observed many people representative of the vast majority of users, and most of them don't print at all. What I have seen them do on a regular basis is load the images on their computer **a zoom right in!**. They zoom in on group photos to look at individuals funny expressions, they zoom in on weird looking stuff in the background and them zoom in on the computer when the subject was too far away for their optical zoom. And with this behaviour there is a big difference between 6 and 18 megapixel sensors noticeable to your average user! " CreationDate="2011-03-18T14:56:55.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14352" PostId="9887" Text="Darn, that SCNR-answer popped in my mind up too ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:12:15.817" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="14353" PostId="9875" Text="@whuber This is a good point, but cameras with the NIR sensor are &gt;&gt;$5,000. I have access to such a camera, and could use it for validation. However, If the method could be done cheaply and in many places, larger data sets would be more informative than more precise measurements. I have thought of using the fact that CCD sensors are sensitive in this region - this would require removing the IR cut filter that is in front of the sensor, and then taking two pictures, one with an IR cut and one with an IR pass filter." CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:18:09.450" UserId="4341" />
  <row Id="14354" PostId="2338" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind that _all_ dSLRs have a focusing screen already. This answer is talking about a specific kind of focusing screen designed for manual focus. Higher-end SLRs will directly support swapable screens, and can generally be done as a DIY project even for SLRs which don't." CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:57:17.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14355" PostId="2337" Score="2" Text="Can you summarize the thread? Photo.net is pretty stable, but forum links are notoriously fragile." CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:58:01.990" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14357" PostId="9900" Text="@Matt, can you elaborate on that? The way I think about it, if the lens produces spacial frequencies up to X Hz, and the sensor resolution sampling is such that its nyquist is above X Hz, I don't see any benefit to oversampling the incoming lens image. Is this the wrong way to think about it? Or even thinking of it from optics, a higher resolution will just mean a smoother airy disk, not a sharper airy disk. " CreationDate="2011-03-18T16:08:16.040" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14358" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: technically, Matt's right. If you think of an airy disk, what's being projected by the lens is is some specific size of illuminated circle. Being circular, that will never coincide exactly with a particular set of pixels in the sensor. Higher sensor resolution comes closer to an exact circle, and the smaller of pixels at the edges that are partially exposed, so the cutoff at the &quot;edge&quot; is sharper." CreationDate="2011-03-18T16:10:48.807" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14361" PostId="9900" Text="@Jerry, when I go http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm and look at f/16 ( simulating a low quality lens) and go from the lowest pixel area and move to smaller pixel areas, it seems to me that the 1D will produce the most perceived sharpness, the rest will begin to bleed into surrounding pixels more and more and decreasing the contrast between the peak and the surrounding black pixels.  Now when there are spatial frequencies above the nyquist or anti-aliasing filter frequency, I know it's a multiplication of each component's frequency responses." CreationDate="2011-03-18T16:28:15.913" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14362" PostId="9920" Score="2" Text="+1 on the color. It's probably important to note that the correction will have to be on the flash or strobe, not in post-processing. It would be very difficult to do it after the fact." CreationDate="2011-03-18T17:18:22.430" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14363" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: At least IMO, that page doesn't do a very good job of showing what you'd really see. I'll have to think about it for a bit, but perhaps I can throw together a somewhat better simulation. It *is* true that in some cases where the size of dot coincides (almost) exactly with a pixel that a larger pixel will give a cleaner edge -- but in reality, this happens so rarely it hardly matter." CreationDate="2011-03-18T17:22:30.743" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14364" PostId="8831" Score="1" Text="Do you mean the processing stages before the print or the printing stage? From what I've seen, there's nothing special about the printer setup once the negative is ready to be printed, you just need the correct media to print to." CreationDate="2011-03-18T18:16:17.717" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14366" PostId="9900" Text="@Jerry, I'd like to see a link or argument that definitively shows that increasing sensor resolution has a benefit in an airy-disc limited situation.   I'm skeptical that there is a better simulation than something as simple as that.  It would be the same to say that when diffraction limited, higher resolution is still better.  So, a 20 megapixel P&amp;S really is sharper than a 12 P&amp;S megapixel at f/8, all else equal." CreationDate="2011-03-18T19:24:16.453" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14367" PostId="9890" Text="@thomasrutter: That is true. I actually once made a 6&quot;x8&quot; print from a 1.3 megapixel image, and that passed the crital eyes of the photographers of the local photo club. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-18T19:40:48.773" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="14368" PostId="9401" Score="1" Text="I gave you the thumbs-up because you suggested a bag closest to what I ended up buying: A Tenba Large Messenger Bag (http://www.tenba.com/products/Messenger-Large-Photo-Laptop-Bag.aspx) for cameras and laptops.  It may replace my backpack, altogether, but also squishes pretty flat if I want to put it in my suitcase and then bring my backpack on the plane.  A bit cheaper than the online store, as well!" CreationDate="2011-03-18T20:31:39.053" UserId="1493" />
  <row Id="14369" PostId="9735" Score="2" Text="You might want to qualify this answer a bit more. I had to dig through the original question to understand exactly what you were referring to (you actually have to click the link for the program, download it, open the archive, and look at the Launch.bat file to tell its a Java program.) Your answer is trying to address the crashing issue, which should probably be made clearer." CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:19:47.903" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14370" PostId="9918" Score="2" Text="There is actually a plugin for LR3 that lets you manage any file type you want: http://www.johnrellis.com/lightroom/anyfile.htm" CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:25:23.557" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14373" PostId="9917" Text="Hello Jan, and welcome to PhotoSE. While I know you do not yet have the reputation to post them, this kind of short note should be posted as a comment to either the question or the relevant answer. You can post comments once you reach 50 rep, so feel free to provide useful answers to other questions, or ask questions yourself. Please see our FAQ (http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) for more information on rep." CreationDate="2011-03-19T02:33:31.927" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14374" PostId="9401" Text="I am glad if this was helpful then!" CreationDate="2011-03-19T03:10:45.967" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="14375" PostId="9931" Score="4" Text="I usually have the opposite problem -- I think my photo is properly exposed, when really it's a stop underexposed. Use the histogram to verify exposure; don't trust your eyes!" CreationDate="2011-03-19T04:30:03.770" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14376" PostId="9933" Text="@ahockley, Thanks for your comments. But when I put a longer shutter speed say 2 sec, 3sec then I get image which is too bright in the area where motion blue is...so what should I do to avoid getting too bright image?" CreationDate="2011-03-19T04:49:48.547" UserId="4376" />
  <row Id="14377" PostId="9933" Text="Excellent answer. Thanks so much!" CreationDate="2011-03-19T04:55:09.023" UserId="4376" />
  <row Id="14378" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: I wrote a small simulator tonight, and edited some screen shots of it into the answer." CreationDate="2011-03-19T05:52:23.363" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14379" PostId="9937" Text="Everything's relative, this is the way I like it. :) I just want to know if I've overlooked something." CreationDate="2011-03-19T07:12:37.553" UserId="4156" />
  <row Id="14380" PostId="6313" Text="Upvote for data. I love data." CreationDate="2011-03-19T07:13:40.363" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="14381" PostId="3720" Text="+1, @Reid, this is the solution I chose. Advantages: the containers are dust tight; you can see their contents at glance; flexible since you can arrange them in any way you want and you can use them in different size combinations." CreationDate="2011-03-19T12:02:35.120" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14383" PostId="9937" Score="2" Text="Hard drives are cheap but our time gets more and more expensive. Processing smaller RAW files takes less time, and that's not a bad thing." CreationDate="2011-03-19T12:31:37.940" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="14384" PostId="9206" Text="+1 The example image has a big case of S-curves." CreationDate="2011-03-19T13:21:31.110" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14385" PostId="9204" Score="1" Text="I like the soft light layer mode in GIMP too.  It allows you to manipulate light in a more film-like way: it leaves the brightest white and darkest black where they are and shifts other colours.  Helpful for appling contrast enhancement without blowing highlights or darks.  Or reducing contrast without making highlights or blacks grey." CreationDate="2011-03-19T13:23:40.237" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14387" PostId="9936" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3419/ for details about sraw and mraw. I'm not sure this is quite a duplicate since that just summarizes the technical differences not the pros/cons. (Which may not necessarily be obvious from the technical details.)" CreationDate="2011-03-19T14:19:17.760" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14388" PostId="9900" Score="1" Text="@Jerry Coffin: simulator = cool. Can you add some pictures showing specifically 12→18 mpix?" CreationDate="2011-03-19T14:27:41.133" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14389" PostId="9900" Text="@mattdm: I'll have to do some more work on it before I can do that. Right now, the circle size and the sensor grid work in terms of  pixels, without trying to relate that back to specific sizes in the real world." CreationDate="2011-03-19T14:56:02.737" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14390" PostId="9182" Score="1" Text="I think the major factor here is not so much the physical shot but the processing. This image would be created by use of a high contrast and possibly increased saturation/vibrancy." CreationDate="2011-03-19T15:15:46.387" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14391" PostId="9940" Score="1" Text="It might be possible to automate this, but I'd argue that it's time/effort spent on something you already have covered w/ the camera's data and some basic Lightroom keywording.  The EXIF data (searchable) contains the photo's date, and if you apply keywords for the country, city, and event when you do the Lightroom import, you're set.  Even if you migrate away from Lightroom you can export this metadata.  This level of detail in your folder structure seems like duplicated work." CreationDate="2011-03-19T15:30:12.787" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14392" PostId="5778" Text="My experience was similar.  A small 126-cartrige camera.  B&amp;W processing at KMart.  Flash cubes on top.  Got me hooked!" CreationDate="2011-03-19T16:31:33.187" UserId="4381" />
  <row Id="14393" PostId="9928" Text="That was a very interesting live broadcast, but your answer doesn't leave much for posterity. Perhaps you could provide some additional information for future reference?" CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:04:48.070" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14395" PostId="9952" Score="1" Text="While this is a very interesting question, it's already been addressed. The first thing is to pick a brand, see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6277/beginner-photographer-which-brand-to-pick-dslr . Also, look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2876/things-to-look-for-in-my-first-slr-camera for things to consider in a DSLR." CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:15:10.003" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="14396" PostId="9950" Text="Hi Murat. Welcome to PhotoSE. While we appreciate you taking the time to provide an answer, your answer is really an advertisement. This site is for general and free Q and A, and is not an appropriate forum for advertising your products. Answers should not include any advertising for products or services, personal or for a corporation. If you can edit your answer to eliminate the advertising aspect, I'll keep it around, otherwise it will need to be deleted." CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:19:59.037" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14397" PostId="9952" Score="1" Text="Also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost/" CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:38:01.403" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14398" PostId="9949" Score="1" Text="That's a good option - that link was a little light on the details, but I finally found where it is (at the very bottom of the screen in the import area of Lightroom).  We're getting closer.  But while that is still just 1 setting change, it's actually almost equally easy to change the destination directory, as the 2 sit right next to each other.  My ideal scenario is to plug the camera in, Lightroom launches and imports the pictures to the proper directory for me.  Not sure if that's possible." CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:39:03.680" UserId="4382" />
  <row Id="14399" PostId="2876" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost/" CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:41:35.263" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14400" PostId="9936" Text="Thanks, just the kind of thing I was looking for!" CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:09:13.990" UserId="4156" />
  <row Id="14401" PostId="9942" Text="Good point, easy to overlook when you're young and at it. However I'm not sure it convinces me to go with the extra storage need." CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:12:54.283" UserId="4156" />
  <row Id="14402" PostId="9939" Text="I agree that cropping is probably the best use for spare pixels. Regarding control over the downsizing, I understand but can't help but think this is quite a bit above my level. And reading the info mattdm linked to, sRAW doesn't seem to be that bad." CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:40:57.587" UserId="4156" />
  <row Id="14403" PostId="9937" Text="@Jędrek Kostecki, but computers get faster and faster, allowing the RAW files to be processed ever more quickly." CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:41:16.760" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14404" PostId="9708" Text="Also, http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/7130/21" CreationDate="2011-03-19T20:59:55.707" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="14405" PostId="612" Text="It is a marvelous camera. I still have mine and it is in good working order." CreationDate="2011-03-19T21:40:01.023" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14406" PostId="9954" Text="Another possible explanation of the pricing anomalies is that they were bought into stock at different times at different price points or exchange rates." CreationDate="2011-03-19T21:45:07.897" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14407" PostId="9957" Text="As you can see from the question, Pentax USA is indeed selling the non-WR version as a new item. For the same price, no less. " CreationDate="2011-03-19T23:01:53.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14409" PostId="9957" Text="@mattdm, it's understandable that the factory would be stuck with old stock when a better version came out at the same price. I'd guess they're forced by contractual obligation to offer them at list price." CreationDate="2011-03-20T00:16:01.543" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="14410" PostId="9957" Text="Possibly. Who knows what Hoya / Pentax Japan requires of Pentax USA. " CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:19:24.027" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14412" PostId="9954" Text="@labnut: makes sense, but at some point don't you have to cut your loses?" CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:44:12.263" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14413" PostId="9957" Text="Sorry, but both Pentax and Bojidar Dimitrov (a great source for k-mount lens info) disagree with you. The WR version is newer but both are still in production, apparently, though Pentax is a little confused on the issue." CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:49:53.520" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14414" PostId="9953" Score="1" Text="For future reference for you: http://kmp.bdimitrov.de/index.html is a great source for K-mount lens info." CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:53:44.420" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14416" PostId="9955" Score="1" Text="I wish there was. " CreationDate="2011-03-20T02:14:42.067" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="14417" PostId="9952" Text="Thank you .., I found the article ..!" CreationDate="2011-03-20T02:59:18.957" UserId="4384" />
  <row Id="14418" PostId="9950" Text="As discussed in the FAQ, one must refrain from using names and signatures. Each post is labelled with your name, icon, and reputation automatically." CreationDate="2011-03-20T04:14:03.727" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14419" PostId="9961" Text="Take a manual lens that is similar... my memory tells me I used to have a, 28-80 3.5-5.6 Pentax mount. The aperture blade position was set with the aperture ring, and that was independent of the zoom. As it was fully manual, the camera had a lever which pressed against an arm sticking out of the lens -- blades open, or blades closed. Thus, an f/22 on that lens resulted in the same physical aperture opening at any focal length. While I observe that my fully auto cameras do have differing min apertures based on zoom, that conflicts with what I know from the fully manual. Can you reconcile that?" CreationDate="2011-03-20T04:25:00.963" UserId="2778" />
  <row Id="14420" PostId="9959" Score="1" Text="I feel this is technically correct and yet fails to answer the question being asked." CreationDate="2011-03-20T04:26:02.367" UserId="2778" />
  <row Id="14421" PostId="5273" Text="I like the first shot. Are those doghouses?" CreationDate="2011-03-20T06:21:46.253" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14423" PostId="7396" Text="The Dell's aren't particularly high-end monitors, though. NEC and Lacie (and others) offer monitors used by imaging pros. There's a lot of info on this site regarding this topic. " CreationDate="2011-03-20T06:58:09.827" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="14425" PostId="9900" Score="1" Text="Interesting simulation.  A couple criticisms:  the airy disk is not uniform intensity, but rather something like a sinc squared function.  Second, the difference between the the light and dark pixels will be the greatest in the 1st case, where most of the photons are counted in the single well and not spread out.  And we are talking about perceived sharpness, which is best measured by modulation transfer function, or perceived the spatial frequency, directly related to contrast." CreationDate="2011-03-20T08:22:21.467" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14426" PostId="977" Text="@Henry with the right skills and time you can duplicate any photo in PS, so by that logic you don't need any camera whatsoever." CreationDate="2011-03-20T08:45:54.293" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14427" PostId="2918" Score="1" Text="the same process can be used with a digital camera. I NEVER take a photo thinking &quot;I'll fix it in PS if it's not the way I like it&quot;, I always try to get it right in camera, whether I shoot film or digital. In fact the only reason I use a DSLR now instead of my trusty film cameras is cost. When the cost of Velvia (including purchasing the film, having it processed, and framing and maybe scanning the shots I like to keep) reached €20+ per roll, it just got too expensive to continue shooting film, it was go digital or stop shooting." CreationDate="2011-03-20T08:48:54.823" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14430" PostId="7226" Score="2" Text="I would argue that the difference in quality has a lot more to do with the panel technology (S-IPS vs TN) than the bit depth or gamut.  The higher bit depth is really essential for when editing/viewing images, but the &quot;pop&quot; will be from the panel type more than the bit depth.  And the gamut wouldn't make any difference to any web images as the web uses SRGB (regardless of what Safari might support, it's not really used), or any photos at all unless they specifically use a wide gamut like Adobe RGB.  The secret is mainly to pick an IPS/S-IPS based panel rather than TN. That and to calibrate it." CreationDate="2011-03-20T12:08:52.717" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14431" PostId="7396" Score="1" Text="I have a Dell Ultrasharp 2209WA (20&quot;).  It's another S-IPS CCFL model.  Or, if you like Apple stuff and don't mind paying a bit more for the same thing, look into some of the Apple Cinema range of monitors - the ones with IPS panels.  Monitors are rarely advertised on the basis of what panel type they are, but one clue that something may be an IPS panel is that they have horizontal/vertical viewing angle of exactly 178/178 degrees - as opposed to something a bit less like 170 by something." CreationDate="2011-03-20T12:18:25.780" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14432" PostId="9971" Score="4" Text="See http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/ — this question is difficult for this site as it is. Can you edit to frame it less in terms of this specific choice and more &quot;How should an enthusiastic hobbyist choose a telephoto lens for wildlife photography?&quot; That should provide answers that are helpful to you _and_ helpful to other photographers who visit this site in years to come." CreationDate="2011-03-20T12:41:15.013" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14433" PostId="9968" Score="2" Text="Are you interested in just face detection (show where the faces are in the photo) or in face recognition, where photos are tagged based on automatic identification of people?" CreationDate="2011-03-20T12:55:45.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14434" PostId="9968" Text="And if the answer to this question is a) nothing exists now and b) no one knows about Adobe's future plans, is that a satisfying answer?" CreationDate="2011-03-20T12:57:55.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14435" PostId="9846" Text="possible duplicate of [How can I know what speed card to get for my camera?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/325/how-can-i-know-what-speed-card-to-get-for-my-camera)" CreationDate="2011-03-20T15:43:39.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14436" PostId="216" Text="Another point — a normal prime with a fast aperture is arguably _more_ versatile than a slower zoom, especially if you don't have total control over the light. " CreationDate="2011-03-20T16:10:39.657" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14437" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: Anybody who's looked at the bokeh produced by various lenses realizes that the distribution of energy does *not* follow a single (or simple) function. IMO, to really improve on a uniform disk, the minimum you'd have to simulate would be diffraction, spherical aberration, coma, and astigmatism. To do very well, you'd probably also want to simulate the color filters of a Bayer grid, and add in chromatic aberration. Unfortunately, we don't usually have access to the parameters (e.g., index of refraction of each element in a lens) necessary to even begin most of that." CreationDate="2011-03-20T17:04:16.583" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14438" PostId="9900" Text="As far as light versus dark pixels goes: yes, a bigger pixel will give the highest contrast, but it (obviously enough) also gives a bigger pixel. If you'll pardon a reductio ad absurdum, a single pixel the size of the whole sensor wouldn't produce very sharp pictures -- and even if you increase that to a few hundred, it still doesn't look very sharp." CreationDate="2011-03-20T17:18:09.800" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14441" PostId="19" Score="1" Text="The effect is shallow depth of field. _Bokeh_ describes the qualities of the out-of-focus areas. " CreationDate="2011-03-20T18:11:09.947" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14442" PostId="9980" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9624/what-exactly-determines-depth-of-field" CreationDate="2011-03-20T18:46:49.540" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14443" PostId="9981" Text="That is what I think that deep depth of field can be shooted by point to shot camera, but shallow one is not." CreationDate="2011-03-20T18:58:27.957" UserId="2398" />
  <row Id="14444" PostId="9981" Text="Nice, concise, and to the point." CreationDate="2011-03-20T19:18:13.307" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14445" PostId="7226" Text="Sure, IPS would be the key factor...however one of the primary differences between IPS and TN screens *is* the bit depth, while the other is viewing angle. I generally try to avoid bringing the terms TN and IPS into my explanations of screens, since most people don't know what those terms mean, and screens are often not marketed with those terms. I prefer to explain the differences in those technologies directly (i.e. higher bit depth, which leads to wider gamut, which means more accurate color reproduction.)" CreationDate="2011-03-20T19:28:07.573" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14446" PostId="7226" Score="1" Text="As for whether ICM is used in browsers, it is becoming more and more prevalent. I spend a lot of time on sites like DeviantArt.com, 1x.com, RedBubble.com, etc. The frequency at which people upload images with an Adobe RGB tag is increasing at an accelerating rate. Given that FireFox, Chrome, and Safari, as well as the IE9 beta, all support ICM, I do think it is an important factor." CreationDate="2011-03-20T19:29:50.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14447" PostId="9900" Text="@Jerry, Yes, it will give a bigger pixel, but of course we are debating over whether it matters when the sensor already out-resolves the lens. At this point, there is absolutely no potential for spatial-frequency gain in MTF, only contrast gain, if at all.  " CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:40:17.863" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14448" PostId="9900" Text="Also, I'd say a point source in the area of maximum focus in a low quality lens with weak correction of the aberrations you mention is much more akin to a sinc^2 or gaussian distribution than a uniform distribution like bokeh.  Bokeh happens because the plane of max convergence is before or after the sensor plane, and the rays are approaching linearly as there are no elements between the last element and the sensor.  Completely different situation." CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:43:46.780" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14449" PostId="9980" Text="Also, http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3096/what-makes-a-good-cameras-like-dslr-can-take-a-good-bokeh-and-the-other-cameras" CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:44:56.123" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14450" PostId="9900" Text="Yes, there is a potential for the spatial frequency to increase -- by roughly half a pixel (on average) at each edge. Perfect focus across the frame is a rarity except (maybe) for those people who only take perfectly focused pictures of completely flat objects." CreationDate="2011-03-20T21:16:17.447" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14452" PostId="9961" Text="It depends on where in the optical path the adjustable aperture is (where the leaves are). On some lenses they are nearer the entrance, and on others they are nearer the node point (the narrow end of the focus cone). The Pentax Auto 110 (a 110 SLR) had the aperture in the body, and all lenses were f/2.8 wide open regardless of the focal length. Since the &quot;choke point&quot; was at the node, the same f-stop represented the same physical aperture size on all lenses, so diffraction was as problematic at f/8 on their longest tele as it was on their shortest wide angle." CreationDate="2011-03-20T22:30:58.317" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14453" PostId="9978" Text="Gray cards usually have 18% gray tone, that has a 12% gray reflectance. Light meters tend to be tuned for 12% gray luminance, so when metering a scene off of an 18% gray card, everything should sync nicely. A gray card should never be marketed at 12% gray, since that would reflect something around 8%, and meter incorrectly." CreationDate="2011-03-20T22:42:32.190" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14454" PostId="9985" Text="Just a note for anyone that doesn't pay a lot of attention to the comments on articles, there's a pretty huge caveat in the comments for that first article... ending with the authors basically admitting that it won't work for the vast majority of folks as they wrote it up. Thankfully Jeffrey's plugin (second link) solves that. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-20T23:07:23.420" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="14455" PostId="9985" Text="@Eruditass It is certainly a workaround. Thanks for sharing. I hope someone knows of anything that does not have any external dependencies." CreationDate="2011-03-20T23:36:58.760" UserId="38" />
  <row Id="14456" PostId="6274" Text="@mattdm - Ever get the rust off, and how?" CreationDate="2011-03-21T00:43:11.133" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14457" PostId="401" Text="I would like to find out the actuation for my powershot sx20 is." CreationDate="2011-03-21T00:59:32.623" UserId="4395" />
  <row Id="14458" PostId="444" Score="1" Text="&quot;Does anybody use X&quot; is kind of a funny question. Presumably _somebody_ does, or else the service wouldn't be around for long." CreationDate="2011-03-21T01:28:37.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14460" PostId="9900" Text="@Jerry, how is there potential for the spatial frequency to increase if the premise of the situation is the lens is limited in resolution and the only thing changing is the sensor megapixel count? a 20MP P&amp;S really is *ALWAYS* sharper than a 12MP P&amp;S and never equivalent?&#xA;&#xA;The only way for this to happen is if the sensor's effective fill factor, AA filter, etc. are such that the sensors MTF is greater at those frequencies that the lens displays.  This is **NOT** inherent in just increasing the sensor's megapixels.  " CreationDate="2011-03-21T03:47:56.470" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14461" PostId="9978" Text="Thanks! I've updated my answer based on this information" CreationDate="2011-03-21T03:56:10.950" UserId="2559" />
  <row Id="14462" PostId="9947" Score="1" Text="The narrowest aperture is often something like f/22 (or f/16, or similar) and does not change throughout the zoom range." CreationDate="2011-03-21T05:16:21.240" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14463" PostId="766" Text="Worth noting that there's a mac version too called 40D Shutter Count linked from the EOSInfo Utility page." CreationDate="2011-03-21T05:19:11.913" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="14464" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: if light hits any part of the pixel, the whole pixel gets that much exposure. Even if the focused spot is small enough that it *could* all hit one pixel, it may not have the courtesy to do so -- it could hit up to four instead, and in that case their being smaller reduces the size it's shown as in the picture." CreationDate="2011-03-21T05:33:44.583" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14465" PostId="5894" Text="A DSLR is neither big or heavy. It's medium-small in both. You *could* take it almost anywhere. compare this to a large format camera. Now that's something that's both big and heavy. But I used my Sinar X in the field for years. " CreationDate="2011-03-21T05:43:05.123" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="14466" PostId="9984" Score="3" Text="I can confirm that the moire interference test works very well. I have used it with all my lenses to good effect. The chart method has the advantage that the degree of mis-focus can be shown to others but the moire interference test is more direct and precise." CreationDate="2011-03-21T06:20:22.767" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14467" PostId="9981" Text="and a very good debunking of the &quot;focal length multiplier&quot; myth as well :)" CreationDate="2011-03-21T06:42:01.323" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14468" PostId="4895" Score="3" Text="so that's why so many photographers are skinny :)" CreationDate="2011-03-21T06:44:04.240" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14469" PostId="1089" Text="FWIW, I've had more luck doing star trails with a digital camera by stacking multiple exposures.([example](http://www.flickr.com/photos/lytfyre/3593303839/in/set-72157615006364579/)) than with film, as film suffers from [reciprocity failure](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_failure#Reciprocity_failure), where it grows less sensitive over longer exposures. Some films (notably fuji velvia) shift colour due to this. " CreationDate="2011-03-21T06:51:44.010" UserId="3478" />
  <row Id="14470" PostId="9735" Text="You're right, as i has not gained the right to comment the comment indicating a java crash, i wrongly created a new answer." CreationDate="2011-03-21T07:20:56.327" UserId="4291" />
  <row Id="14471" PostId="9981" Text="-1 It's easy to get shallow depth of field with a small sensor compact in macro mode, almost all compacts have this feature." CreationDate="2011-03-21T08:39:26.453" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14472" PostId="9617" Score="1" Text="@Gnubie: Java will only allocate well below 2GB unless you pass the extra `-Xmx` command line flag." CreationDate="2011-03-21T09:41:34.697" UserId="745" />
  <row Id="14473" PostId="9981" Score="1" Text="That is true, but for most practical purposes, it's not possible." CreationDate="2011-03-21T10:29:15.280" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14474" PostId="9949" Text="Looks like this is the best I can do for now!  :)" CreationDate="2011-03-21T12:01:21.440" UserId="4382" />
  <row Id="14476" PostId="9548" Text="If it was Picture Style's fault, then the preview on the camera should be not precise as well. But that was not the case. The camera's preview had exact the same &quot;correct&quot; red, as ACR had!" CreationDate="2011-03-21T12:22:53.683" UserId="1956" />
  <row Id="14477" PostId="9529" Text="It's not a matter of personal preference. All three red's (actual sweater, camera's preview, adobe camera raw) were the same, except the Aperture's red (bottom image)." CreationDate="2011-03-21T12:24:59.597" UserId="1956" />
  <row Id="14478" PostId="6274" Text="@rfusca — I tried the baking soda thing, and had trouble getting it all cleaned away so as to not get dried baking soda into my camera body, which seems like a bad thing. In the meantime, I've just been using it on my K1000 as-is. But white vinegar is next up." CreationDate="2011-03-21T13:08:54.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14479" PostId="9983" Text="+1 for all the &quot;and another thing&quot; advice -- the lens is just the start." CreationDate="2011-03-21T13:15:02.703" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14480" PostId="9971" Text="This is a really tough one to answer *well* because you're comparing two lenses that have significant differences in capabilities.  You could compare the Tamron 70-300 to Canon's 70-300, for instance, but this seems like apples to oranges to me." CreationDate="2011-03-21T13:17:37.710" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14481" PostId="9981" Text="@nick so the answer is *&quot;no for shallow depth of field at subject distances &gt; 1 meter&quot;* not *&quot;no for shallow depth of field&quot;* which is I'm afraid plain wrong." CreationDate="2011-03-21T13:49:00.230" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14482" PostId="9990" Text="@dr Thanks.  I'll check that out.  In the meantime, +1 for the lead." CreationDate="2011-03-21T13:53:51.297" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="14483" PostId="9900" Text="@Jerry, yes... what question of mine does that answer or refute?" CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:00:12.060" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14484" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: Much of your claim seems to be based on the notion of a spot of light hitting only a single pixel, and therefore producing a sharp cutoff at the edge of that spot. In reality, that's only rarely the case. I think, however, that this conversation has reached (and probably gone beyond) the end of its useful life." CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:30:01.393" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14485" PostId="10001" Text="Basically, if focus on small subject with zoom in help to achieve shallow DOF. " CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:39:34.410" UserId="2398" />
  <row Id="14486" PostId="977" Text="I find the downvotes here kinda funny." CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:45:22.957" UserId="75" />
  <row Id="14487" PostId="10001" Text="That's one way to do it, yes.  I edited the answer to be a little more complete, including a link to an online DOF calculator that might be helpful.  The basic idea is that your camera &amp; lens gives you a performance envelope that's capable of certain things, and you control how you're going to use that envelope.  Higher-end equipment gives you a bigger envelope (so you can do things you couldn't do with a cheaper camera), but the principles that govern DOF are similar." CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:05:54.263" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14488" PostId="10001" Text="Not sure you got shallow DOF here. It is still large, you just framed the background far enough to be beyond the *large* DOF. This is not generally applicable since one cannot always change the relation between foreground and background." CreationDate="2011-03-21T16:04:19.423" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14489" PostId="10001" Text="I added the link to the DOF calculator to help solidify the original answer.  Frequently, I think when people ask about &quot;narrow DOF&quot;, or even just &quot;DOF&quot;, they're really trying to ask how to blur the background in their shots.  I'm also not sure that &quot;shallow&quot; in this context isn't sort of a relative term (2&quot; DOF at a distance of 2' isn't shallow, but at 20' it is, right?)." CreationDate="2011-03-21T16:29:54.900" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14490" PostId="10010" Text="Very true Chris.  I never check-in my equipment baggage." CreationDate="2011-03-21T17:25:00.167" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14491" PostId="10006" Score="1" Text="Could you clarify your reasoning a bit more? Your answer is a little sparse at the moment, and your particular reasoning why someone would just end up selling the 70-300 may apply to the person asking the question." CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:14:43.137" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14492" PostId="10005" Text="Could you clarify this a bit, and perhaps back up your claims with some references or math?" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:15:12.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14493" PostId="10011" Text="Thanks decastlejau!  I will definitely investigate the Travel Report you suggested.  I'm sure this resource will prove informative.  Cheers!" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:18:19.077" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14494" PostId="9548" Text="How are you defining what is &quot;precise&quot; or &quot;correct&quot;? Just because the camera with its picture style and ACR get the same answer doesn't mean it's correct -- and I'd bet they'll stop getting the same answer if you change your picture style (especially to, say, a monochrome style -- unless Adobe has added the feature of honoring such settings?) try it out. If adobe and the camera always get it the same, then are they still getting it &quot;right&quot;, even when you, say, set the contrast and saturation for the picture style way down? " CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:33:40.203" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="14495" PostId="9498" Score="1" Text="You're *always* viewing a generated jpeg with Aperture - either the one embedded with the RAW file (the normal initial state, given that aperture is set to treat RAW &quot;as master&quot; in import), the camera-generated JPEG from shooting RAW+JPEG (which I'm guessing is what you're advising against?), or a JPEG generated by Aperture from the RAW file, and stored internally as its &quot;Preview&quot; (which I'm guessing is what is meant by &quot;viewing the raw file&quot;?)" CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:38:40.137" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="14496" PostId="10012" Text="Great tip, thanks.  However, extensive warnings like &quot;this software can damage or destroy your camera&quot; suggest that using this software merely to obtain an actuation count presents a high risk:reward ratio... ." CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:47:40.283" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="14497" PostId="10012" Text="Don't worry, the number of cameras bricked by ML is zero. They use that disclaimer because no one can give you warranty with this piece of software. Also, you will gain a lot of cool features besides the shutter counter." CreationDate="2011-03-21T18:59:36.060" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="14498" PostId="10013" Text="Do you want to do this in Adobe Photoshop specifically? The tags on this site are for organization and shouldn't be relied on to add information about what you need help with. " CreationDate="2011-03-21T19:07:50.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14499" PostId="9548" Text="As I've wrote on other comments as well, as &quot;correct&quot; color I define the one that is closer or matching the the actual color of the sweater. But I'll try with other color profiles also and let you know!" CreationDate="2011-03-21T19:09:38.310" UserId="1956" />
  <row Id="14501" PostId="9697" Text="Dirt on optics being a more probable option." CreationDate="2011-03-21T19:52:36.810" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14502" PostId="10016" Text="I am not confused. I am sure, what i am expecting. I do have Picasa, I have uploaded all my pics in Picasa Album.    If i need to watermark one by one, its going to be tedious. " CreationDate="2011-03-21T20:19:50.890" UserId="4384" />
  <row Id="14503" PostId="10015" Text="Thank you MikeW, Its worth it. But do i need any additional software to be installed ? Like Adobe Photoshop ..something ..! Whether it is free version ?" CreationDate="2011-03-21T20:21:56.473" UserId="4384" />
  <row Id="14504" PostId="10016" Text="**Read the instructions I linked to again.** You select first (could be an image, a folder, lots of folders, etc) and then Picasa will do all the work for you." CreationDate="2011-03-21T20:29:12.943" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14505" PostId="10016" Score="2" Text="@Chok - I reworded your question so that it makes sense. You were asking about how to watermark a *folder* but saying you do not know how to watermark a *collection*. A *folder* is a file-system abstraction, a *collection* is a photo-management abstraction, they can be completely different or the same in you choose so. In most image management software (Picasa, Lightroom, Bibble, etc) you can select folders (even recursively) and collections. I will remove some tags too which I think are irrelevant." CreationDate="2011-03-21T20:42:22.243" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14506" PostId="10015" Text="@Chok - Photoshop is an expensive and very powerful image application. Most people do not need all it has to offer but still get it because they do not know any better. You can get Photoshop Elements for about $100 USD which is largely sufficient for most image editing or Photoshop Lightroom for $250 which does basic photo manipulation but also manages photos and videos. It has lots of functionality and is aimed at professional photographers." CreationDate="2011-03-21T20:48:15.983" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14507" PostId="10010" Text="that's good advise worldwide :) The way luggage gets literally thrown around, it's a miracle not more of it ends up destroyed (I've seen myself luggage trucks on ramps dropping suitcases, then backing up over them so the driver doesn't have to walk around the vehicle to pick them up again for example)." CreationDate="2011-03-21T21:29:01.010" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14508" PostId="10005" Text="@jrista 16mm on an APS-C camera with a 1.5x crop factor (24mm on a 35mm equivalent system) is right in line with che's answer, which references Wikipedia. A quick check of the wiki page's references turns up a link to http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/ultra_wide.html where a series of ultra wide lenses (EF mount) are listed, ranging from 14mm to 20mm." CreationDate="2011-03-21T21:29:15.067" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14509" PostId="10017" Score="1" Text="ImageMagick is a very powerful tool, but it is likely beyond the skill level of all but the most computer-savvy or very determined photographers. I'm not trying to suggest it's not a good method; in fact it is likely the best way to go in terms of control over the final result. It is just a caveat I think might be worth mentioning, especially given the original asker's apparent level of computer experience." CreationDate="2011-03-21T21:46:12.090" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14510" PostId="10019" Score="1" Text="+1 for marital problems and loathing photos. My wife actually says &quot;can you just take a *normal* photo this time?&quot; when I start to go for my stand &amp; umbrella. My answer is usually &quot;no&quot;. :-P" CreationDate="2011-03-21T21:46:22.980" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14511" PostId="10017" Text="@Sean: good point." CreationDate="2011-03-21T21:53:37.737" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14515" PostId="9900" Text="@Jerry, it then appears that you are misunderstanding my argument: and understandably frustrated. I'm a bit shocked that you feel my points are based on that when the very notion of a gaussian or sinc^2 distribution over the pixels is contrary.  The premise the situation that we are discussing  is that a spot of light will not fit in one pixel (limited in spatial resolution by incoming light). " CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:46:00.360" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14516" PostId="9900" Text="I believe you have a misunderstanding as to what an increase in spatial frequency and perceived sharpness means: *adding pixels on the edge at lower intensity (from a higher sampling rate) will maintain the same spatial frequency*, as it is all coming from the same band-limited source. In signal processing, higher sampling rate means nothing with a band-limited source, all else equal.  If you do a 2D FFT, it will be the same, with the same sensor MTF. Check out http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html and DSP." CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:46:46.273" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14517" PostId="9981" Score="1" Text="I've edited the answer to specify this, however I think Itai was answering out of practicality, not technicality. For most uses, it's simply not possible." CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:50:37.827" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14518" PostId="10021" Score="1" Text="Sorry, but this isn't a place for video questions." CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:00:33.970" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14519" PostId="10021" Text="Agreed, but still related to photography. Isn't it?" CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:03:51.157" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="14520" PostId="10021" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean - Actually, videography is ruled off topic for the site, see the FAQ for details." CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:09:03.613" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14522" PostId="10020" Text="The [SB-700](http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flashes/4808/SB-700-AF-Speedlight.html) and [SB-900](http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flashes/4807/SB-900-AF-Speedlight.html) offer an optional &quot;Drip-Proof Mounting Foot Cover (Water Guard)&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:31:34.393" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14523" PostId="10023" Text="According to Adobe, as of ACR 6.3 (current latest), the D3100 is supported. I would be surprised, otherwise, since both the Pentax K-5 and Nikon D7000 are also supported and are slightly newer." CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:33:13.537" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14524" PostId="10023" Text="Yeah that seemed to be the issue, Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:44:02.027" UserId="3841" />
  <row Id="14526" PostId="9981" Text="I don't see how it's not practical, it's impractical to shoot large groups with a supertelephoto lens (you have to back right off and shout at your subjects) it's not impractical to get shallow DOF with a compact - just pick a small object nearby and focus on it. It's not *impractical* to get shallow DOF at portrait distances with a (small sensor) compact - it's *impossible!* " CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:48:07.827" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14527" PostId="10021" Score="1" Text="Sorry can't see how this is related to still photography" CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:50:55.450" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14528" PostId="9900" Text="In fact, by the nature of the problem (lens is of low quality e.g. band-limited spatial frequency), you simply can't have a a uniform disc in the way you describe.  If it drops off as fast as the pixel spacing, it isn't more limited in spatial frequencies than the sensor.  By definition, it needs to drop off such that the edges do not contain higher frequencies than the pixel spacing.  You can't create something out of nothing.  I'm convinced you are arguing against a different problem given your assumptions on my argument, but encourage you get on the same page about the situation we defined." CreationDate="2011-03-21T23:52:13.717" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14529" PostId="6640" Score="1" Text="The boy seems to be lighted both by direct flash (key) and bounce light from ceiling (fill). Neither of them reaches under chin, which explains the hard shadow. Bounce alone would have left a longer and smoother shadow, catchlights would be missing and the hair on top of head would have been lighter. Diffuser would not have made the cheeks stand out so well and the shadow would have been smoother." CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:15:26.990" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="14530" PostId="6641" Text="The pull-out bounce cards are there to create catchlights in the subject's eyes, not for creating a competing direction for light." CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:23:24.550" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="14531" PostId="10024" Text="I seem to remember from its introduction, but do not positively know, that the 580 mk II is only actually weatherproof if mounted on a 1D/1Ds mk III or IV. Possibly the 7D as well. Not just any old hotshoe, anyway." CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:31:19.053" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14532" PostId="9981" Text="@Nick - Thank you. You got my point. There is always someone who will point the fine exceptions, although those are usually for limited applications." CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:31:19.053" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14533" PostId="10024" Text="@Staale - The camera must also be weather sealed for the whole thing to mean much. Otherwise you may still have issues on the shoe itself." CreationDate="2011-03-22T00:33:25.083" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14534" PostId="10022" Text="I've reworded your title a bit to hopefully draw in more folks to the heart of the question.  While the answers will obviously be subjective, I think the issue is one worth exploring." CreationDate="2011-03-22T01:28:12.030" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="14535" PostId="9993" Text="I've been thinking of doing something like that, in which case the NAS would function more as a backup device than as my main photo storage.  I may have to consider restructuring my Lightroom catalogs or getting more local hard drive space if I were to keep all my photos on the local drive.  And thanks for the pointer to SyncToy.  Didn't know about that, though the Linux geek in me would likely build a script using Cygwin rsync." CreationDate="2011-03-22T01:38:35.347" UserId="3486" />
  <row Id="14536" PostId="6816" Text="+1. Fantastic shot." CreationDate="2011-03-22T01:54:18.700" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14537" PostId="6816" Score="1" Text="I wonder, without taking the foreground bokeh into account, whether it would have been more optimal to halve or quarter the ISO and open up the aperture 1 or 2 stops to achieve a less noisy raw file to work on the shadow detail? (purely speculation on possible gains in PP)." CreationDate="2011-03-22T01:57:09.430" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14538" PostId="464" Text="Further to that, many DSLRs allow fast bracketing capture in manual mode when using the timer, automatically taking all three (or more frames). Granted the moon will shift ever so slightly depending on camera fps and shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-03-22T02:01:06.133" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14539" PostId="16" Score="1" Text="And also a question for the artistic/composition side of photography: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4804/books-resources-on-the-artistic-side-of-photograpy" CreationDate="2011-03-22T02:57:19.747" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14540" PostId="381" Text="possible duplicate of [What are the first few photography books someone should read?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/16/what-are-the-first-few-photography-books-someone-should-read)" CreationDate="2011-03-22T02:57:50.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14541" PostId="175" Text="Since many of the answers (including the top one) suggest making lenses your primary concern, see this question as well: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9355/how-much-do-lens-lineups-vary-across-platforms/" CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:02:18.680" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14542" PostId="237" Text="I don't think this is CW. While the final decision might be subjective, there's some decent objective answers." CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:07:14.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14543" PostId="6816" Text="@Nick: Depends on what your working with. I wanted to make sure the details in the moon were sharp and clear, and opening up the aperture could reduce the clarity of those details more than reducing ISO (not to mention that Lightrooms nose deconvolution is superb). At least with the lenses I've used to photograph the moon (usually the 100-400mm), shooting at f/4 or f/5.6 tends to be a little soft. If you have a sharper lens (i.e. one that opens all the way to f/2.8), then you can probably get more sharpness at f/4." CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:10:09.910" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14544" PostId="10021" Text="Even though it's off-topic here, you should go sign up for the 'Film and Video Production' stack which is currently in the commitment phase over at Area51: http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production as it's likely that it wouldn't be off-topic over there..." CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:10:45.590" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14545" PostId="10022" Score="1" Text="I've converted this to community wiki, as while there is probably some good advice to be had on the subject, it is unlikely that any particular answer will be &quot;the correct one&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-22T03:13:08.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14546" PostId="3840" Text="See for earlier Canon Rebel models: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/401" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:01:13.723" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14547" PostId="9900" Text="@Eruditass: if you really want to continue, perhaps you could start by reading: http://www.zeiss.com/C12567A8003B8B6F/EmbedTitelIntern/CLN_30_MTF_en/$File/CLN_MTF_Kurven_EN.pdf, especially starting around page 10." CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:04:55.263" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14548" PostId="724" Text="Note that much of the software for Linux will also build on OS X, with differing degrees of porting work required. So see this question on Linux raw software: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/471/" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:14:13.320" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14549" PostId="9900" Text="@Eriditass &amp; @JerryCoffin: When a comment discussion goes long like this, its probably best to truncate it here on the forums, and move it to chat. You can always start a new chat room for your own discussion, and post a link to it here. It should be easier to discuss points, identify mis-communications, and zero in on the problem or better yet, realize you are both talking about the same thing in different ways, and discussing different points of the same topic." CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:23:13.650" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14550" PostId="10032" Score="1" Text="I'm not so charitable in my interpretation of the download wall, since the fine print says &quot;_You understand that your name will be placed on the mailing lists of both RawWorkflow.com and Imagenomic.[...]_&quot; There's no opt-out button, although they promise you can opt-out later (from each one _separately_ — classy!). So I'm not sure why you wouldn't skip all that and just use `dcraw`, which this is apparently based on anyway. (See http://www.insflug.org/raw/Downloads/ for free Mac and Windows downloads with zero hassle, or http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/ for source.)" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:25:38.873" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14551" PostId="10032" Text="But the basic idea of just taking the JPEG preview for facebook use is decent. So, -1/+1, I guess." CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:26:21.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14552" PostId="10032" Text="I haven't actually gotten anything -- I probably just missed the announcement for the Mk II version of the focus gizmo. Frankly, not a lot goes on there, at least from what I can tell -- no begging for grey card purchases or anything. But yeah, I can see how it maight be a problem for some people." CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:32:00.207" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14553" PostId="735" Score="1" Text="I don't have a better answer but wanted to point out that the list is confusing style of photography (travel, abstract, landscape, etc) with style of photograph (B&amp;W, HDRI, Infrared, Pinhole, etc)." CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:41:45.887" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14554" PostId="9900" Text="Continued here: http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/367/photography-tech-chat" CreationDate="2011-03-22T04:49:46.113" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14555" PostId="9959" Text="I have to agree with @JeffFerland. You've explained why f/11 is smaller than f/3.5, but have not explained why f/11 **is possible at all** on an &quot;f/3.5 lens&quot;, which I believe is what the question is asking." CreationDate="2011-03-22T05:17:51.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14556" PostId="10005" Score="1" Text="@Sean: I know that the answer is technically correct...but for the benefit of the community, I think it could stand to be fleshed out a bit more." CreationDate="2011-03-22T05:20:15.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14557" PostId="680" Text="I agree 100% with this warning. " CreationDate="2011-03-22T05:31:39.103" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="14558" PostId="724" Text="Don't overlook Apple's own iPhoto. Its got some decent editing capability built in, and comes on Macs, and is well integrated into apps on the Mac. If you want the latest version its a cheap upgrade via the Mac Store. I use Aperture right now, but used to use Lightroom and Photoshop regularly. And, I've used Gimp, so its a possible candidate too." CreationDate="2011-03-22T06:13:13.700" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14559" PostId="2918" Text="Hey jwenting, I agree with you, although it doesn't seem relevant to what I said. Maybe I was unclear. What I meant was, that for some, not all, the actual fact it is film, literally, is important. For some artists, the process is sometimes as important as the end result. For others not so much of course. The creative process is quite personal I guess." CreationDate="2011-03-22T09:53:58.673" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="14560" PostId="10021" Text="Nowhere it is mentioned/decided that Photo Stackexchange is just about Still photography. There are plenty of queries about Video, which have been open and answered here. If you read Jeff Atwood's post on meta stack, it said about- the community needs to be more open in allowing some level of 'open' questions to elicit varied and richly diverse answers and thoughts. Don't rush to close the questions. " CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:16:58.337" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="14561" PostId="10046" Score="1" Text="While I don't want to discourage non-technical questions, I can't see how this one can possibly be answered, other than &quot;it depends&quot;, or possibly &quot;when the artist is dead&quot;. Maybe it could be rephrased as &quot;What are approaches for defining the scope of a photographic project?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:35:59.843" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14562" PostId="10040" Text="Most modern screens are 96dpi or higher. Does this matter to your answer, or is there a reason to pick 72 instead?" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:37:01.543" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14563" PostId="10036" Text="+1 inspirational — maybe time to try some of those ultra-obscure ones. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-22T11:38:50.827" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14564" PostId="10046" Text="hmm, good point. would it help if it was a community wiki?" CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:35:42.183" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="14565" PostId="10035" Text="@other Sean: Do you always plan your shots in that much detail before hand, or only when coordinating with another shooter?" CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:37:33.550" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14566" PostId="10033" Text="Now that is just downright cruel." CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:38:17.433" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14567" PostId="10046" Score="3" Text="This is a conversation for http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/. My feeling is that CW is meant for things like list-of-resources questions, where there's a benefit to collaborative answer-building. It shouldn't be used for unanswerable questions — the site is focused on Q/A, not discussion. That's why I suggested the more focused rephrasing of the question, which I think helps but I'm not sure helps _enough_." CreationDate="2011-03-22T12:43:50.193" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14568" PostId="10011" Text="Happy to share. In my last trip to Guatemala, I found some very valuable information in the Guatemala report.  We avoided a city in particular for our safety, and followed a few recommendations." CreationDate="2011-03-22T13:15:39.103" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="14569" PostId="10024" Score="1" Text="Yeah... but the 1Ds mk II, for instance, is weather-sealed as such but I think it leaves the hotshoe less protected with a 580 II than a 1D III does. So you can have a sealed flash (580 II) on a sealed camera (1Ds II) but have the total system un-sealed because the hotshoe is not protected." CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:08:46.190" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14570" PostId="10040" Text="@mattdm, you are right. There are screens with even higher resolutions. But it is not only the screen but also the software and OS. However, most browsers don't implement a concept for dpi. Basically they use the nominal length and height in pixels to display the image. Mac OS X has a resolution of 72dpi while on Windows the default is at 96 and can be set up to 120dpi I guess (or to 72). This is why I use 72dpi - and because I'm an ancient web guy ;-) - but you can also use 96dpi, it'll not make a difference. Only when printing the webpage a difference is expirienced." CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:41:02.857" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="14571" PostId="10040" Text="@mattdm, oh and PS CS3 - at least on OS X - compiles also 72dpi versions when saving images for web and devices." CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:54:36.617" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="14572" PostId="10040" Text="I know 72 is often chosen by software (and even written by some cameras), but I'm wondering if it's still relevant as a guideline. My 24&quot; iMac has an actual resolution of about 94dpi (close enough to 96 for most purposes!) Since, as you say, the actual pixel size of the image is usually what's shown, it seems to me to make more sense to keep typical current hardware in mind when sizing for Internet display." CreationDate="2011-03-22T15:02:10.487" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14573" PostId="10040" Score="1" Text="Well, the hardware is actually irrelevant, except it's paper/printer :-) DPI does not apply to screens. Take an arbitrary image change the dpi without recalculation of the image so the pixels in length and width are equal and produce a 7, 72, 96, 960 dpi jpeg version. No open each of then in ie Preview.app, they will all look the same and have the same size. I guess, I should not have mentioned dpi in my answer, but with recalculation it conveniently scales down the images pixel dimensions." CreationDate="2011-03-22T15:38:44.023" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="14574" PostId="10024" Text="@Staale - Sure, all you're saying is that the 1DS mk II may not be completely weather sealed. Nevertheless, as far as I can tell, there's only one option for a flash that is and so combined with a full weather sealed cam you're in good shape. Is there something else you're trying to say? The OP didn't ask about cameras." CreationDate="2011-03-22T15:54:59.657" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14575" PostId="3841" Text="I'm annoyed that Canon's own software can't provide this. I keep track of how many times the camera has rolled over 9,999. Of course that's only reliable when you buy new." CreationDate="2011-03-22T16:37:41.570" UserId="50" />
  <row Id="14576" PostId="10033" Text="Probably best as a comment." CreationDate="2011-03-22T16:50:34.330" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14577" PostId="10046" Text="Or post it in the chat room, its async - so you can always see if it sparks discussion." CreationDate="2011-03-22T16:50:51.523" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="14579" PostId="10046" Score="1" Text="You guys are nuts. The question is just fine, and is totally answerable. :-)" CreationDate="2011-03-22T17:17:34.313" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14580" PostId="9548" Score="1" Text="Remember, too, that the &quot;actual&quot; color is greatly influenced by a variety of factors - especially the color of the light, and that *our perception* of color is influenced by even more factors, like what other colors are nearby... Frankly, your second picture seems more &quot;accurate&quot; to me as a representation of the color of light I'm guessing you had, though I can only guess based on other red garments I've seen, and things like shadow angles, etc, which is hardly complete information. I look forward to further reports!" CreationDate="2011-03-22T17:20:58.490" UserId="2425" />
  <row Id="14581" PostId="10046" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: Okay, I'm sold. Providing a good answer like that is very compelling way to argue. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-22T17:45:34.340" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14582" PostId="9928" Text="@Sean - you are right. The answer was indeed relevant only at the time of the posting. I have mentioned CreativeLIVE in several of my past answers and can be found by a search, or directly at the link I provided above." CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:03:07.050" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14583" PostId="9928" Text="To be honest, this is not much of an answer (not too informative, as Sean pointed out), but it WAS a leggit answer at the time, and I thought it is more than just a comment." CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:07:20.527" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14584" PostId="10011" Text="I've looked at the Travel Reports, very valuable information.  Particularly the information about safety threats.  Thanks again!" CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:13:36.573" UserId="4322" />
  <row Id="14585" PostId="9887" Text="@Staale - if not the &quot;rough guesstimate&quot; I'd say this is the only valid answer to the question in this thread... ;-) {BTW, the first thing that came to my mind too...}" CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:24:08.640" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14586" PostId="735" Text="@Itai: That is true. It's hard to choose a set of categories without getting contradictions or mixing concepts." CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:28:04.990" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="14587" PostId="10031" Text="It's interesting to note (though perhaps not directly relevant) that the accepted cutoff point coincides almost exactly with non-retrofocal view camera lenses that make movements (shift/rise, swing/tilt) impractical without using a &quot;bag bellows&quot; due to the physical limitations of ordinary bellows (there is some inherent stiffness when the bellows is collapsed). It's like the gods of perspective are trying to tell us something." CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:33:38.087" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14588" PostId="727" Text="+1, except for Picasa. I rarely upload, and when I do it is to Flickr. I organize on chronological basis on my hdd (automatically with EOS Utility)." CreationDate="2011-03-22T18:38:33.697" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14589" PostId="10049" Text="Wow, great answer jay, thank you. I think the point you make about accepting one will never be completely satisfied is an excellent one. Also finding third partiesnto look at your work, very good. I guess I just to say, ok, enough picturesmof lamp posts!" CreationDate="2011-03-22T19:52:54.537" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="14590" PostId="10024" Text="No, John, the 1D/Ds marks I and II are completely weather-sealed, to the very best of Canon's ability. You can pretty much use them in the shower. Surely you must know this? But for the join with the equally weather-sealed 580 EX II to be weather-sealed the camera body around the flash-shoe must be designed in a particular way to fit the flash snugly, the 1D/Ds marks III and IV have this design and marks I and II do not. " CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:06:51.547" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14591" PostId="10024" Text="Hence, the sum total of a 1D I/II plus 580 EX II will not be weather-sealed while a mk III/IV plus 580 II will be. A sealed camera plus a sealed flash does not necessarily equal a sealed camera system. That's what I am saying - one must consider more than the sum of the individual parts, there is a system integration issue here as well." CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:07:13.013" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14592" PostId="2471" Text="Well, there's also wide-angle primes designed for APS-C cameras. Pentax has three: DA 21mm f/3.2 Limited since 2006, the DA 14mm f/2.8 since 2004, and the DA 15mm f/4 Limited since 2009. Of course, that's no good for Nikon users. (There's the Samyang 8mm f/3.5 fisheye, but that might not count.)" CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:45:58.333" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14593" PostId="10024" Text="@Staale - Fine, feel free to add to my answer if you like, but I was answering what flashes are sealed, not what cameras are prepared to make use of it. So if you feel the OP needs that as well, cool." CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:47:36.643" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14594" PostId="401" Text="For later models: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3840/how-can-i-get-the-shutter-actuation-count-for-canon-eos-500d-550d" CreationDate="2011-03-22T20:51:48.597" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14595" PostId="10046" Text="This is a well known problem in software development.  The open source world addressed this problem with their mantra of 'publish early, publish often'" CreationDate="2011-03-22T21:23:53.790" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14596" PostId="10024" Text="Thanks, I think pointing out the weak spot at connection of two sealed systems is quite important in practice." CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:09:41.800" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="14597" PostId="10053" Score="1" Text="Actually, it seems like you got the *opposite* of the point of my answer... The methods I described are specifically useful in situations where there *isn't* a clear end point or deadline like commercial work, such as with a open-ended fine-art project or 'personal' photography project." CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:11:56.523" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14598" PostId="10020" Text="I find it quite interesting that Nikon sells rain-covers for flash feet without making any claims for weather resistance of the flash itself." CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:17:36.067" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="14599" PostId="2477" Text="The 14-24 is a stellar lens, the envy of a lot of Canon shooters (like the 85 f/1.2L is for Nikon shooters and the 24 f/1.4 until Nikon released their version)." CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:17:37.067" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14600" PostId="10049" Text="I've known a lot of brilliant artists who are *never* happy (I mean, &quot;I think I'm going to do a bunch of coke, party all the time, crash my car, and then maybe cut my own ear off&quot; not happy) because their work doesn't match up with what is in their heads/hearts *exactly* so they feel like complete failures *all* the time..." CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:23:15.860" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14601" PostId="10049" Text="I think the healthier course of action is to accept that the majority of the time our work is only going to be a pale imitation of the images we have in our head... But *every once in a while* something comes out *exactly* as we imagined it would and those moments are breathtaking... and worth chasing after as we create our art over the course of our lives." CreationDate="2011-03-22T22:23:42.847" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14602" PostId="10053" Text="haha, I agree with Lance's comment. Nevertheless, really good advice labnut, thank you" CreationDate="2011-03-22T23:12:16.940" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="14603" PostId="9959" Text="My feeling was that the source of the asker's confusion was the backwards-appearing nature of the f-stop scale. Once you see how it works, one won't wonder anymore how the f-number can be greater than the maximum, because it becomes obvious that it isn't. If explaining it this concisely is no help, then I guess my answer will languish with zero points. Oh well." CreationDate="2011-03-22T23:31:07.790" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="14604" PostId="10015" Text="No you don't have to use Photoshop, but that was in the original tags of your question, so I assumed you were using it.  You could do watermarks with GIMP, which is free." CreationDate="2011-03-23T01:00:03.447" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="14605" PostId="10046" Text="@labnut, &quot;The open source world addressed this problem with their mantra of 'publish early, publish often'&quot;. I was afraid you were going to say &quot;The open source world addressed this problem PHP.&quot; :-)" CreationDate="2011-03-23T01:15:02.767" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14606" PostId="1637" Text="I'm not sure if this is one of the articles where Ken Rockwell knows what he's talking about (in the manner of the right-twice-a-day clock), or not. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/670/image-stabilization-in-aerial-photography" CreationDate="2011-03-23T02:56:45.753" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14607" PostId="1077" Text="This goes the _other_ way — it removes objects from a background.... http://www.logarithmic.net/pfh/resynthesizer/removal" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:04:04.623" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14608" PostId="887" Text="@t3mujin: let's assume Open Source as in http://www.opensource.org/osd.html" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:06:21.903" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14609" PostId="73" Text="@Marc, can you elaborate on &quot;the interesting stuff&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:08:14.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14610" PostId="50" Text="@Reid: can you describe the process a bit here directly, so that we have an answer rather than a reference to a (presumably fragile) blog post? Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:09:28.183" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14611" PostId="110" Text="possible duplicate of [What is back-focusing?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/900/what-is-back-focusing)" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:12:39.993" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14612" PostId="900" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1/what-is-the-best-way-to-micro-adjust-a-lens adjustments you can make on higher-end cameras." CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:13:50.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14613" PostId="110" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/900/what-is-back-focusing is a slightly newer question, but it got some good answers where this one (too specific?) didn't. See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1/ for correcting the problem (on higher-model cameras)." CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:14:42.227" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14614" PostId="897" Text="Same question for Canon: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/908/" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:15:51.803" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14615" PostId="908" Text="Same questionf or Nikon: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/897/" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:16:30.510" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14616" PostId="1528" Text="The better way to second an answer is to vote it up, and add a comment if you think it warranted." CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:18:11.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14617" PostId="1161" Score="1" Text="The same quiet shutter is used in the newer Pentax K-5 as well. http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/11/dethrone.html" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:19:35.297" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14618" PostId="10059" Text="it would be more useful to see a 100% crop on just that building for both images." CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:40:38.247" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="14619" PostId="9950" Text="-1 roboimport has nothing to do with lightroom, which is what the OP specifically asked about." CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:46:16.680" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="14620" PostId="10059" Text="@cabbey I've added your request" CreationDate="2011-03-23T03:58:24.143" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="14621" PostId="10059" Text="As an unrelated aside, it does look like your sensor could use a bit of cleaning as well. If you have this much dust showing up at f/5.6, it's probably going to look pretty nasty at something like f/11 or f/16." CreationDate="2011-03-23T04:13:30.497" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14622" PostId="9990" Text="FYI i've checked through more of the source code which specifically mentions shutter count for the 500D and 60D (no sign of the 550D or 1100D yet, presumably as both are very new... but I'd expect them to be supported in the coming months as i think gPhoto2 is reasonably actively developed)" CreationDate="2011-03-23T04:32:31.533" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="14623" PostId="913" Text="Several Sony models have (maybe had; not sure about current models) a &quot;nightshot&quot; mode which captures IR (+ visible, so you might need a filter in daylight). " CreationDate="2011-03-23T04:45:53.707" UserId="4417" />
  <row Id="14624" PostId="9529" Text="Adobe is probably using a very similar colour profile to your camera's internal one since their products strive to match the in-camera result.  That doesn't mean that theirs is better than Aperture's, just different.  You can't possibly say which one matches the actual sweater better on that day.  Since fitting light into a limited colour gamut always involves some compromise, it most certainly is a matter of personal preference as to which compromise gives more pleasing results, and Adobe/Nikon/Canon have one opinion.  Different people will hold different opinions on which is more realistic." CreationDate="2011-03-23T05:27:29.150" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14625" PostId="9529" Text="If you care so much about this stuff, then I do encourage you to create your own colour profile.  Then you can have full control over how the colour conversion is done, and the result will be exactly same in Aperture and in Adobe products.  If you calibrate based on a reference card then you may discover how much of a balancing act &quot;realistic looking&quot; colour might be.  Remember that the lighting and other factors can fool your eyes on the day and fabric dyes don't always match the primaries in your sensor by predictable margins either." CreationDate="2011-03-23T05:34:04.483" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14626" PostId="10062" Score="2" Text="It also helps to correct vignetting _before_ doing black level adjustments, since adjusting the black level has more effect on darker areas than on lighter areas." CreationDate="2011-03-23T06:52:12.817" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14627" PostId="2023" Text="Wow this TuFuse is a very interesting thing. Is there a more user friendly and up to date alternative?" CreationDate="2011-03-23T08:21:22.713" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14628" PostId="10053" Score="1" Text="Yes indeed, so I have corrected my answer accordingly. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-23T09:22:34.413" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14629" PostId="10059" Text="If you use Photoshop, try pressing Ctrl + Shift + L after opening the picture in there. This is 'Auto Level'ing and worked for me a lot of times, specially for the pics taken during foggy winter days. Also try using different white balance settings like 'Cloudy' or 'Shade'. That shall give you some improvements over the image color." CreationDate="2011-03-23T11:31:37.093" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="14630" PostId="10065" Text="Google is your friend: http://open-tube.com/free-high-dynamic-range-hdr-software" CreationDate="2011-03-23T12:56:07.490" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14631" PostId="10065" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What tools do you recommend for creating HDR images?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1293/what-tools-do-you-recommend-for-creating-hdr-images)" CreationDate="2011-03-23T12:58:24.480" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14632" PostId="10065" Text="Welcome Rick. The question I've marked as a duplicate isn't exclusively about $0-cost software, but _does_ mention that as one of the top concerns, and has some answers along those lines. Perhaps we can stir up some more activity." CreationDate="2011-03-23T13:01:00.657" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14633" PostId="10066" Text="Can you move this answer over to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1293/ ?" CreationDate="2011-03-23T16:05:46.780" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14634" PostId="10080" Score="1" Text="This will probably be closed for being too subjective: one guy might say the 190X is the best tripod ever, another might disagree. Perhaps a rewording to something more general like 'What are the properties of a good tripod'." CreationDate="2011-03-23T19:54:51.673" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14635" PostId="10082" Text="Pentax petition: http://www.petitiononline.com/593039/petition.html" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:13:57.783" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="14637" PostId="10077" Score="1" Text="Pentax makes lenses that use screw-drive (body motor) on cameras that don't support lens motors (K100D and earlier lack the eletrical contacts). But bodies which support both (ie all current ones) will not use screw drive if the lens has SDM — even if that happens to be broken!" CreationDate="2011-03-23T20:47:58.400" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14638" PostId="10053" Text="great answer labnut, if I could I'd mark you both as answer!" CreationDate="2011-03-23T21:55:14.310" UserId="161" />
  <row Id="14639" PostId="10085" Text="To add to Matt's post, I've tried manual exposure blending with Paint Shop Pro (even though PSP has an HDR tool) following a Photoshop / Photoshop Elements tutorial I found some time ago (so sorry no link...) which adapted pretty well. I think I saw one on the Gimp site a while ago too. Gimp has some pretty good tutorials which you should be able to adapt readily." CreationDate="2011-03-23T22:40:34.627" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14640" PostId="9220" Text="Thanks for posting your response from Soligor. Given their problems with controlling their manufacturing processes and their apparent lack of concern about it, I think I'll look to another manufacturer if / when I go looking to buy a set." CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:00:01.580" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14641" PostId="10088" Text="Are you looking for a _derogatory_ term? Or some sort of scientific one? Is this in the context of having a friend you want helpful advice from?" CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:26:04.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14642" PostId="10088" Score="1" Text="Is there something _specific_ about photography, or would insecurity and flattery in general cover it? If you can rephrase this in terms of &quot;how can I get constructive criticism from people who are too nice&quot;, then I have some thoughts, but otherwise, I think this is best migrated to http://english.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:29:57.443" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14643" PostId="10080" Text="This question http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2505/ has some good general advice on selecting a tripod." CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:35:03.840" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14644" PostId="3745" Text="possible duplicate of [What should I pay attention to when choosing a tripod?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2505/what-should-i-pay-attention-to-when-choosing-a-tripod)" CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:37:37.160" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14645" PostId="8573" Text="@Mike: You might want to consider making your post-morten an actual answer to your own question." CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:41:40.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14646" PostId="10088" Score="1" Text="As an aside, *'chimping'* has nothing to do with complementing (or being derogatory) towards a photograph or photographer whatsoever. 'Chimping' is the practice of taking a picture with a digital camera and then looking at the LCD on the back to 'see how it came out.' Thus we get the phrase 'chimping your shots.'" CreationDate="2011-03-23T23:51:47.163" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14647" PostId="10088" Score="1" Text="To continue the aside, I think it's called &quot;chimping&quot; because then you &quot;ooh, ahh&quot; at the result, in the manner of an ape. So it has a little bit of that self-appreciating sense, but not exactly in the same way as used in the question here." CreationDate="2011-03-24T00:38:39.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14648" PostId="10088" Text="Oooh oohh — we have a QA for that. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/961/why-is-chimping-a-derogatory-term :)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T00:49:50.473" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14649" PostId="9984" Text="+1 For the *superb* answer, and if I could, I'd drop on another +1 for the &quot;Life View&quot; typo...classic, that one. ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T01:17:22.213" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14650" PostId="934" Text="Similar (identical) to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5557/help-motivate-me-to-use-my-slrs-manual-mode" CreationDate="2011-03-24T01:30:28.160" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14651" PostId="1169" Text="Not necessarily essential, especially if you can get your camera's meter to ignore the fact that you have a flash connected. Because your flash exposure is determined by aperture and ISO, and is mostly independent of shutter speed, [aperture priority can be useful to keep your ambient light at a roughly constant level](http://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/10/how-to-track-ambient-automatically.html) " CreationDate="2011-03-24T01:37:22.477" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14652" PostId="1169" Text="@EvanKrall: awesome, thanks for the link!" CreationDate="2011-03-24T02:28:31.470" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="14653" PostId="968" Text="WB and metering are really mixed up in this question. :(" CreationDate="2011-03-24T03:34:42.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14654" PostId="10092" Text="Seems on-topic to me -- this would fall under &quot;using photographic equipment&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-24T03:35:46.993" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14655" PostId="987" Text="See related non-poll question with great answers at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/934/what-advantages-does-manual-mode-have-over-aperture-priority-mode" CreationDate="2011-03-24T03:36:23.027" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14656" PostId="1033" Text="I don't think this should have been relegated to the CW junkheap. What's the rationale?" CreationDate="2011-03-24T03:43:46.470" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14657" PostId="260" Text="Love the flickr link under &quot;incredibly sharp&quot;.  The animal pics are really compelling, and I'm trying to figure out why.  There's something there I don't think I get with my Canon 50mm f/1.8 (and the same camera)." CreationDate="2011-03-24T03:45:00.747" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="14658" PostId="10088" Text="&quot;I'm not talking about chimping in particular.&quot;, as the above comments said, &quot;chimping&quot; has nothing to do with compliments, false or genuine. @mattdm got it right, &quot;chimping&quot; comes from people looking at the LCD, ooing and ahhing their photos, usually with their lower lip stuck out unintentionally, like a chimpanzee. " CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:11:58.647" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14659" PostId="961" Text="Chimping has nothing to do with showing off a photo. It's the process of reviewing photos, particularly when it's after every shot just to see if you got it. If you know how to set up your camera why bother checking after every shot? The camera will do what you said, so after the first few shots, if the exposures are right, concentrate on shooting and check the rest of the photos only periodically. I've seen fools... um... photographers, come close to getting seriously hurt because they were too busy chimping to pay attention to action around them, and almost be run over. Trust the settings." CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:16:19.157" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14660" PostId="1172" Text="I'd love to see some answers expanding on the &quot;what's not there&quot; part of the question. " CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:21:56.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14661" PostId="10088" Score="2" Text="This does come off as a bit derogatory and argumentative. I don't really want to push this off in the English-SE guys, as they will probably close it anyways. As such, I've closed it." CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:34:02.077" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14662" PostId="9984" Text="@jrista — typo is from the original. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T04:38:19.300" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14663" PostId="10092" Text="good. :] just didn't want to presume (as a new comer)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T05:53:23.700" UserId="4432" />
  <row Id="14664" PostId="10099" Text="I like a lot of the examples, especially the [guy puking out bokeh](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_PQk-p7mwFo8/TO53WwRCydI/AAAAAAAAAHc/TDO1xzpAhBA/s1600/forced_perspective_photography_16.jpg) ([source](http://amizingbelieve.blogspot.com/2011/01/39-cool-forced-perspective-pictures.html))" CreationDate="2011-03-24T05:56:25.133" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14665" PostId="10099" Text="+1 for providing good references" CreationDate="2011-03-24T07:05:05.370" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14666" PostId="9984" Text="Wish I could up-vote you again for providing good references. Backing references are so important." CreationDate="2011-03-24T07:08:16.023" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14667" PostId="10094" Text="Since the chart is provided by Sekonic it is a fair assumption that it is right." CreationDate="2011-03-24T08:35:47.273" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14668" PostId="10104" Score="6" Text="&quot;Tips for Shooting Crowds, Political Demonstrations, Rallies ...'&quot; - I had to read it twice as it sounded a bit scary the first time around" CreationDate="2011-03-24T11:37:31.600" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="14669" PostId="10066" Text="@mattdm - If you mean just add, I have done a copy and paste, if you really mean move, then I don't have the creds I believe?" CreationDate="2011-03-24T12:58:45.630" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="14670" PostId="10109" Text="added here from http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10065/what-are-the-free-hdr-programs-available-for-download/10066#10066 at mattdm's request" CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:01:08.313" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="14671" PostId="10089" Text="What does &quot;not a full-height tripod&quot; mean? I'm 5'3'' and plan to use it mostly for landscapes and portraits. " CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:10:22.317" UserId="4429" />
  <row Id="14672" PostId="10086" Text="Was it the 496RC2? Do you think it would be strong enough for the XTi with a 18-55 mm lens? " CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:24:28.363" UserId="4429" />
  <row Id="14673" PostId="10110" Text="This is probably a much better way of using spot metering, to pick the 'difficult' part of the photo and set your exposure compensation based on that so that it's detail is retained (or intentionally blown/black). You can use curves or simple general adjustments to bring the mid-tones up/down, but if your highlights are blown out or the shadows pure black/noise, then its too late." CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:46:30.863" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="14674" PostId="10104" Text="Lol I missed that. I'd just like to confirm that I DON'T work for an oppressive Middle Eastern regime." CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:47:25.410" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="14675" PostId="10106" Score="4" Text="n+1. Avoid walking backwards. You'll be tempted to if there's a crowd moving along and you want to get shots of them approaching, but this is a great way to fall over, taking your whole weight on the camera as you land." CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:49:38.927" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="14676" PostId="10080" Text="What are you planning on using it for? e.g. nature/city/studio? walking long distances or driving to sites? macro close to the ground? landscapes on windy outcrops? etc..." CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:53:47.020" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="14677" PostId="10105" Text="I don't have another zoom, was considering getting a Nikkor 1.8D but the responses here re: not bothering with manual focus have changed my mind (1.8D won't autofocus on a D5000). Do you think there is any point in me looking at a prime/fixed lens for this particular mission? I might save up for one for later in the year though for shooting family, kids etc." CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:56:34.623" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="14678" PostId="10110" Text="By stops here do you mean Exposure adjusting, or aperture stops? Changing the aperture would seemingly change my composition, so I want to believe you mean the exposure adjustment. Is that correct?" CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:14:24.037" UserId="4440" />
  <row Id="14679" PostId="10089" Text="@Miriam: With the centre-column raised, the 190 is 1.46m high, the 055 is 1.77m high. If you are 5' 3&quot; the 190 will be perfect. The height of the head and of the camera added to this will bring the viewfinder up to my eye-height when I am standing fully upright. There are carbon-fibre versions which reduce the weight by about half a kilo (but are more expensive)." CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:21:06.817" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="14680" PostId="10086" Text="According to Manfrotto, the 496 head will carry a 6Kg load. It should be easily able to cope with the XTi with 18-55 lens. Martin may have been referring to the 494 which is designed for a 4Kg load. That probably can't cope well with large telephoto lenses but the 18-55 would be OK I would have thought." CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:31:31.177" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="14681" PostId="8086" Text="1. Compact doesn't do motion, low light very well. Plus C50 is a verrrry old 5MP model.  &#xA;&#xA;2. I want to shoot in low light, capture my very fast three year old son moving, mess about with bokeh etc.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks much - I've had the 'ah-ha' moment of which you speak. Now venturing out to do more blatant photography (http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10104/tips-for-shooting-crowds-political-demonstrations-rallies-and-other-lively-ev), all tips and suggestions welcome!" CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:32:16.853" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="14682" PostId="10111" Score="1" Text="That is wrong. Olympus DSLRs and SLDs have had for a long time options to meter for other luminances than 18%. There is an option called *Spot Highlight* that meters closer to 90% (exact value not disclosed) and *Spot Shadow* that meters closer 5% (exact value not disclosed). Those are more practical to use because finding which area is a highlight or a deep shadow where details is required is easier than judging what falls around 18%." CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:49:03.353" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14683" PostId="10110" Text="Changing EC (Exposure-Compensation) is what you want. How much EC you dial in depends on the dynamic-range of your camera, so you need to do a few tests first and then memorize one value for shadow metering and one for highlight metering." CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:52:36.363" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14684" PostId="10110" Text="@Jeremy: Same thing. Go from f/5.6 to f/4; from 1/200 second to 1/100 second; go from ISO 100 to ISO 200; it's all the same in this respect; one stop. &quot;Stop&quot; is just a convenient shorthand, not necessarily a physical aperture stop." CreationDate="2011-03-24T14:54:29.263" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14685" PostId="10110" Text="What you are essentially describing is the Ansell Adams Zone System - Google that for plenty of helpful info." CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:02:20.473" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14686" PostId="10105" Score="1" Text="A prime is a good investment, but I don't think it's very useful for this particular situation. You need flexibility. A prime is fine when you are wandering around a town on holiday and you can take the time to get in the right spot, but during a demo? You're better off with a zoom. Try your 18-55 on your first trip and see if it does the job." CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:05:31.530" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14687" PostId="10066" Text="Yeah that, and then delete this one if you want, as this question is likely to be closed soon. Or just leave it. Whatever. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:33:06.877" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14688" PostId="10101" Text="+1 That's all that I've ever found too... Mind you, I wouldn't do this on my current active camera. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T15:58:35.287" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14690" PostId="1033" Text="I would imagine that it is because there is not one correct answer, and it is basically asking for a list of answers." CreationDate="2011-03-24T16:17:27.057" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="14691" PostId="934" Text="@Evan - true, though I asked several months before the other question was asked." CreationDate="2011-03-24T16:18:34.200" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="14692" PostId="10086" Text="@Miriam, I have one with the 496RC2 ball-head. It is a well made and sturdy tripod that has met my needs for portrait, landscape, flower and macro photography. It will support your camera and lens with no problem at all." CreationDate="2011-03-24T17:18:48.373" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14693" PostId="961" Text="@Greg: You've confirmed my suspicion. Chimping is a term used by photographers who are bitter because high quality cameras are now affordable by the masses. They're threatened by all the joe-blows out there and have to take an elitist view and disparage other people. My gut-feel is, the better the photographer, the less they care what other photographers do." CreationDate="2011-03-24T17:48:00.457" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="14694" PostId="10078" Score="2" Text="Technically speaking, it is not &quot;certain metal&quot; but *black body*. This is a theoretical material but there are certain materials which come very close (e.g., nickel-phosphorus alloy)." CreationDate="2011-03-24T17:48:05.540" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14695" PostId="10111" Text="@Itai: I believe that particular feature predates digital in general by a few years. It goes back at least as far as the Minolta Maxxum/Dynax/Alpha 9000, which was originally released in 1985, if memory serves. I have to agree about its utility -- it was extremely useful, and I believe helped me produce a much higher percentage of well-exposed shots than anything since." CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:30:17.503" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14696" PostId="961" Text="@Alan, your suspicions are not correct. Chimping is a term used in humor and, semi-derisively of our peers who aren't paying attention when they should be. It has nothing to do with camera cost, or who is doing the shooting. The photographers I know who are experienced and know how to use their cameras spend a lot less time looking at the LCD than those who have no confidence in their ability, because they know they set the camera correctly and they can concentrate on the job at hand. If they change a setting they'll check, otherwise they trust the equipment. " CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:32:26.483" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14697" PostId="964" Text="+1 @Reid. If I need a derogatory term I have plenty of other words to choose from. Everyone chimps - it's how long and often they do it that becomes a matter of ridicule, especially when its all-consuming or causes lost shots or, worse, could lead to bodily harm because of being in dangerous conditions. Shooting rodeo for many years, inside the arena, gave me plenty of opportunities to see the near misses and collisions that occur from chimping. " CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:40:02.660" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14698" PostId="1029" Score="1" Text="If you are doing portraits, and chimp after every shot, your subject will quickly become impatient if they are busy, or bored, and you'll lose the mood." CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:46:15.480" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14699" PostId="975" Text="+1. Well said, and my feelings exactly." CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:47:16.960" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14700" PostId="963" Text="+1. I forgot about those videos, and they made me laugh. Bert Hanishiro, who took the video, is an awesome photographer who's done so much for the photography world. I've met him a couple times and he's the greatest." CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:54:37.503" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="14701" PostId="10092" Text="CHDK isn't exactly an SDK, although adding scripting capabilities is one of its cool features. I've edited the post to reflect this -- hope you don't mind!" CreationDate="2011-03-24T20:41:21.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14702" PostId="10099" Text="Great, thanks. I actually have the bokeh photo already. `:-)`" CreationDate="2011-03-24T20:49:17.043" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="14703" PostId="10100" Score="1" Text="Wonderful, thanks! Now I can create an aptly named folder to store them all in." CreationDate="2011-03-24T20:49:36.763" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="14704" PostId="10077" Text="@mattdm ah, I haven't used a Pentax in years and years... good to know." CreationDate="2011-03-24T21:36:40.483" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="14705" PostId="10077" Text="@cabbey — more like, frustrating than good, at this point. Hopefully they'll actually listen to that petition linked below Itai's answer." CreationDate="2011-03-24T21:52:42.923" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14706" PostId="10104" Text="Pretty close duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2823/how-do-you-protect-yourself-at-protests/" CreationDate="2011-03-24T22:35:37.487" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="14707" PostId="8573" Text="@matt I didn't think it was worth it... but if you insist... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-03-24T22:39:52.630" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14708" PostId="10104" Text="That one specifically pertains to personal safety and answers to it do not cover equipment and technique which is what this question also attempts to address." CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:03:52.873" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="14709" PostId="10116" Text="Great links. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:08:05.760" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="14710" PostId="8573" Text="@Mike: I don't insist, I just suggest. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:08:41.093" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14711" PostId="10117" Text="Related but not a duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5/" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:37:26.997" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14712" PostId="10115" Text="@mike - As a fellow aussie, I am interested about customs. I never have done this when taking IT equipment out. Did you do anything?" CreationDate="2011-03-25T01:11:29.027" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="14713" PostId="10115" Text="I decided claiming was better than trying to get money back. The form for Australians is http://www.customs.gov.au/webdata/resources/files/b263gst1.pdf" CreationDate="2011-03-25T01:31:38.587" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="14714" PostId="10102" Text="Actually, assuming enough resolution, if you blow up that cropped center to the same print size, the resulting DoF is _quite close_ to proportional to the crop amount." CreationDate="2011-03-25T01:48:29.427" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14715" PostId="10115" Text="Hey Wayne. My own issue wasn't with customs but with check-in. I had a look at buying some kit while I was in Malaysia and concluded that anything under $1000 AU was similarly priced here, while over $1000 AU was priced less. Once you paid import duty coming back in, the prices were going to be similar anyway. When taking out my netbook, there was nothing to do. Perhaps because it's only priced at about $500 AU. On checking the form you linked, I'd say there'd have to be some rule about value or what &quot;exporting&quot; means. I was never asked about any of my gear. Hope this helps." CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:00:44.773" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14716" PostId="10104" Text="@5arx oppressive Middle Eastern regimes probably wouldn't allow crowds, political demonstrations or rallies. Or at least allow you to shoot them and get away with it!" CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:04:42.053" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14717" PostId="10111" Text="@itai - the Olympus OM-4 had that function (from about 1983), so it's certainly been around a while. Now I know what it does, it's a shame I wrecked the camera, so I can't experiment with it." CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:26:25.110" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14718" PostId="10086" Text="(+1) I'm going to agree with Martin about the head - spend some money on a good one! A bad head on my compact tripod makes it something I just don't want to use." CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:29:42.923" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14719" PostId="10086" Text="... and a quick release plate makes life a lot easier. Be aware that manufacturers' plates and heads probably aren't compatible with each other." CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:36:00.250" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14720" PostId="1302" Text="When I talked to my insurance agent about this a few years ago, she strongly recommended against it, because while the cost of the rider wasn't high, insurance companies treat any claims against your policy as Black Marks On Your Record. Unlike auto insurance, the cost won't immediately spike, but you increase the risk of getting denied for renewal — and they pass the info on to other companies. So it's better to do it separately if you can." CreationDate="2011-03-25T02:58:33.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14721" PostId="934" Text="I guess technically this is a more specific version of the other question." CreationDate="2011-03-25T03:04:54.140" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14722" PostId="10116" Score="1" Text="I'm curious if anyone has come across an approach for live remote backups of images, like Eye-Fi card to cellphone to website, in order to prevent loss of images in the case of deletion or damage to equipment." CreationDate="2011-03-25T03:09:31.593" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14723" PostId="10121" Text="This is exactly the direction in which my thinking was headed, but I had never come across a concise mathematical explanation. Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-03-25T03:20:42.893" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14724" PostId="10120" Text="Can't agree with the assertion that an in-body motor means all lenses work at the same speed. Don't know if it's due to gearing or what, but some lenses are faster than others even within the same category." CreationDate="2011-03-25T03:41:51.627" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="14725" PostId="10120" Text="@Mark - Phase detect AF is always performed at the widest aperture (no the set aperture). So if the maximum aperture is different, expect the focus speed to be too. Then there will be some variation in weight. Given a fixed motor, heavier lenses may move slower. That's why I said most. I will adjust the wording for clarity." CreationDate="2011-03-25T03:58:42.160" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14726" PostId="1441" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/, which generalizes the question." CreationDate="2011-03-25T04:03:51.070" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14727" PostId="10092" Text="not at all - if it increases the chances that someone will know what I'm on about. I would be happy with something that provides programmatic access to the existing firmware. I'm not necessarily seeking to replace the firmware with anything else, I just want to automate some tasks, as is possible with CHDK." CreationDate="2011-03-25T04:18:21.043" UserId="4432" />
  <row Id="14728" PostId="10120" Text="Focus throw is another big reason for a difference. The Pentax FA Limited f/1.9 is only slightly bigger than the DA Limited f/2.8, but is much more slow to focus. This is because the newer designed-for-AF lens doesn't have very far to go, whereas the older lens (which is a joy to focus manually) does." CreationDate="2011-03-25T04:25:46.630" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14729" PostId="10123" Score="1" Text="There's two types of ultrasonic motors — ring-type and &quot;micro&quot;. The ring-type ones are the good ones that have the positive characteristics of both. Micro ultrasonic motors are quiet, not as quiet the ring type, and don't have the other advantages." CreationDate="2011-03-25T04:29:40.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14730" PostId="10123" Score="1" Text="Oh also: another big advantage with ultrasonic ring motors is that you can manually focus even with the AF motor engaged. (Normally impossible unless the lens has a quick-shift mechanism.)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T04:31:26.987" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14731" PostId="10111" Text="@Itai, by &quot;All metering&quot; i was referring to the different metering modes on the 500D in the question. I'll clarify my answer to reflect this." CreationDate="2011-03-25T05:10:27.873" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="14732" PostId="1339" Text="I've been recommended and have bought 50D batteries from http://sterlingtek.com/. So far haven't had any issues. The genuine batteries are just too expensive." CreationDate="2011-03-25T05:15:15.647" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="14733" PostId="10108" Text="Note that the actual number is probably [more like 12%, not 18%](http://www.bythom.com/graycards.htm)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T05:42:54.797" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14734" PostId="10119" Text="Yep, I thought about it. But I heard that it's a very springy platform and it will vibrate to the slightest touch, so if you're in a low light situation and need to use a stable platform, you'll need to use a cable release or use the 10-second delayed release timer. Is it true?" CreationDate="2011-03-25T06:28:27.133" UserId="952" />
  <row Id="14735" PostId="10119" Text="Also **really** it can sustain in (almost) any position (let's say) 2.5 kg? " CreationDate="2011-03-25T07:14:35.403" UserId="952" />
  <row Id="14736" PostId="10092" Text="What tasks do you want to automate?" CreationDate="2011-03-25T07:50:05.013" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="14737" PostId="3149" Text="And often waterproof too :)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T08:30:33.330" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="14738" PostId="10129" Text="Ah I see, so the one red pixel that is mis firing ends up having it's effect showing in the few around it on the image. Thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T10:26:30.573" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="14739" PostId="10126" Text="Depends on your budget. If money is no object then the SB900 is the obvious choice - about £325 at the moment." CreationDate="2011-03-25T10:47:04.550" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14740" PostId="10127" Score="2" Text="I think it's actually too localized, not too broad. Plus a little subjective. I'm not voting to close, but I'll be surprised if this gets enough response as-is to give you a meaningful survey of London-relevant opinion. " CreationDate="2011-03-25T11:27:28.957" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14742" PostId="10104" Score="1" Text="@Mike — on that topic, see http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/02/08/what-not-to-bring-to-tahrir-square/" CreationDate="2011-03-25T11:47:50.740" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14743" PostId="1401" Text="@Rowland Shaw: that's true, but in large urban areas covered by the Skyhook Wireless database, it'll actually work pretty well. See http://www.skyhookwireless.com/howitworks/coverage.php. I wasn't aware of cards that did this, and I think it's a pretty clever option, so I'm glad for the post." CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:01:52.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14744" PostId="1401" Text="@Jason S — edit the post to expand and clarify the limitations and it'll get at least +1 from me." CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:02:37.707" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14745" PostId="1338" Text="Linux support for this device at http://schimmelnetz.de/projekte/iTU4l/" CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:03:39.703" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14746" PostId="10108" Score="1" Text="@Evan Krall: That article is widely repeated, but @Jerry Coffin debunks it pretty convincingly here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1048/what-is-the-18-gray-tone-and-how-do-i-make-a-18-gray-card-in-photoshop" CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:08:58.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14747" PostId="10127" Text="@mattdm, fair comment.  It's a long shot.  " CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:23:30.850" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="14748" PostId="10133" Text="I put the images into external links because they need to be huge so one can see the problem; if it's okay/customary to put these directly into the question on Photography.SE anyway, let me know." CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:17:28.453" UserId="1413" />
  <row Id="14749" PostId="10111" Text="@drfrogsplat - +1 Much better!" CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:44:29.357" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14750" PostId="10134" Text="seconded, one's clearly displaying camera shake and the other is with flash, as the lighting colour and direction are totally inconsistent!" CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:52:51.717" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14751" PostId="10133" Score="3" Text="Having the EXIF information intact in the file would be a great help." CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:57:22.460" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14752" PostId="10119" Text="It vibrates more than a good tripod, I agree, but it really depends on how you place it. It actually takes practice to learn which positions are more stable for it. The more support contact area you give it, the more stable. Then it depends how low-light it is. I never had a problem with exposures less than 1s or so, but for longer ones I use a remote to catch moving subjects or the 10s self-timer to be absolutely sure. Note: Do not wrap it on stop signs, those vibrate to much, particularly it is is windy." CreationDate="2011-03-25T13:57:28.487" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14754" PostId="10119" Score="1" Text="It is extremely flexible but it is not equally stable in all positions. I had no problems with it holding 1.7kg but the ball-head is key to be able to point your camera almost anywhere while keeping the Gorillapod in a stable shape." CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:00:31.950" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14755" PostId="10134" Text="Third from me, there's clearly a strong light source on the second shot. Actual exif would probably confirm it." CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:00:58.150" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14756" PostId="10133" Text="Ditto what Staale S says — unfortunately, imgur strips that out." CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:08:10.317" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14757" PostId="2830" Text="&quot; plenty of accredited journalists were caught up and detained in the G8/G20 protests in Toronto.&quot; in no small part because they were abusing their status as &quot;press&quot;, were in fact active participants in the riots..." CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:42:01.443" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14758" PostId="10129" Text="yes, it causes a colour defect in multiple points in the RAW" CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:46:28.040" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14759" PostId="10134" Text="Arggh! Oh man, you are right. My apologies, the Exif confirms it. I somehow didn't notice or misremembered when taking the picture. Would it, however, be normal for the shake to occur with landscapes as well? I'll see whether I can find a more telling landscape example later." CreationDate="2011-03-25T14:49:47.100" UserId="1413" />
  <row Id="14760" PostId="10135" Text="Much appreciated, thanks @leighann.  :)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:05:22.940" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="14761" PostId="10134" Text="@Pekka - Long exposures in poor light are often going to have camera shake in them if done handheld. That's whether it's portrait, landscape, etc." CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:38:00.710" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14762" PostId="10134" Text="@John sorry, my photography vocabulary is very poor. I meant &quot;Landscapes&quot; as opposed to close-ups, i.e. objects far away. I'm sure there is a more correct word for it." CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:40:29.227" UserId="1413" />
  <row Id="14765" PostId="10134" Text="@Pekka — you can edit your question to correct (i.e. remove) the mistake about the image taken with the flash." CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:41:50.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14766" PostId="10134" Text="Note that your eyes correct for the reduction in light during and after sunset - you assume it's lighter than it really is. This low light may explain why you would get camera shake when taking shots of landscapes. A good rule of thumb is to aim for a shutter speed faster than your 1 / current focal length - so with a focal length of 50mm, aim for a shutter speed faster than 1/50th of a second" CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:43:11.077" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="14767" PostId="10134" Text="@Pekka - The answer remains the same... :) The general rule of thumb is based on shutter speed and focal length. Typically, the shutter should be at least the reciprocal of the focal length to avoid blur. For example, if you have a 200mm lens and shoot slower than 1/200 of a second, blur is more likely and you should use a tripod. It's not hard and fast rule, it varies a little bit by person and equipment, but it's a place to start." CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:49:02.357" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14768" PostId="10134" Text="@John @Maynard thanks. :) I will experiment with the shutter speeds and a tripod to find out whether there is a problem. I did have the feeling that the behaviour has changed, and the camera seems to be much more sensitive to this (in auto mode) than it used to be. I'll look into it, and come back with an update here. @mattdm done, good point" CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:55:53.830" UserId="1413" />
  <row Id="14769" PostId="10134" Text="@john @pekka - good point - my point about being a close-up is of course irrelevant as camera shake is usually rotational rather than translational. Edited accordingly." CreationDate="2011-03-25T15:56:11.297" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="14770" PostId="10119" Score="1" Text="Actually, using a cable release (or the self-timer) is compounding the problem, letting the resonance of the platform run wild and free. When you are holding the camera, you become part of the support system, and become a very effective mechanical damper. There's no wedding picture I know of that involves capturing star trails -- you're just looking for an extra stop or two beyond what you can effectively do hand-held, and (support + photographer) is only second-place to (wooden tripod + mirror lock-up + leaf shutter) in the critical 1/15 to 1/4 second range where resonance kills." CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:02:13.663" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14771" PostId="10139" Text="The first one is clearly motion blurred (though it may have been out of focus as well) " CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:08:11.710" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="14772" PostId="10144" Text="Which Canon camera supplies DNG? As far as I was aware, neither Canon nor Nikon do DNG in the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:16:14.437" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14773" PostId="10144" Text="@If not, then I would be, converting the CR2 to DNG using dcraw or some such thing." CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:22:00.453" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="14774" PostId="10144" Text="possible duplicate of [How to get started with RAW photography](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7005/how-to-get-started-with-raw-photography)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:54:30.393" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14775" PostId="10144" Text="I'm pretty sure the answer to 2 is &quot;no&quot;. But I'm not sure. This site works best with one question per question — I encourage you to post that separately." CreationDate="2011-03-25T16:57:58.067" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14776" PostId="10144" Text="I think that with CHDK it is possible to provide DNG (Obviously, when using a supported camera)." CreationDate="2011-03-25T17:10:41.983" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14777" PostId="10144" Text="There are video cameras that do RAW video output and they have to use a fiber-optic directly out. It is connected to a box with 15-60 hard-disk in striped RAID formation. Just imaging RAW data for each frame at 24+ FPS to see how much of a throughput you need. PS: I happen to know this because I wrote S/W that reads that output a few years ago." CreationDate="2011-03-25T17:47:21.333" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14778" PostId="10104" Text="Do they still use water cannons there? If so, a weather sealed camera would be a big advantage." CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:24:04.353" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14779" PostId="10116" Text="+1 for backing up your assertions with good references." CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:38:24.077" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14780" PostId="10144" Text="@Itai - as much as the throughput is huge, I believe it is much smaller than &quot;RAW x 24fps&quot;, as the video RAW is of much lesser resolution than the stills RAW." CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:46:08.593" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14782" PostId="4434" Text="Would this question be community wiki material? " CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:58:41.753" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14783" PostId="10144" Text="RAW is RAW. When it comes to video it is the same as for images. It is interpreted differently sometimes at a quarter of the resolution by grouping 4 raw samples together as one pixel (and averaging the 2 greens) but you get the whole chip's photosites output at every frame at the full bit-depth. The vast majority of video cameras do NOT do RAW and instead truncate a lot of bits. One model I worked on did 12 megapixels (4K in Cinema-talk) frames at 24 FPS." CreationDate="2011-03-25T19:12:33.270" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14784" PostId="2851" Score="1" Text="The buddy idea is excellent but regrettably there are can be times when one can't find a buddy to take the risks with you. But there is one thing you must always do, make sure someone knows exactly where you will be, when you should be back and when to hit the panic button." CreationDate="2011-03-25T19:42:05.957" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14785" PostId="10144" Text="@Itai - I see your reasoning, but in that case how are MRAW and SRAW generated in the Canon cameras? (b/c I don't know if the term applies as is to other brands)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:00:00.713" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14786" PostId="1172" Text="And on what's there this is a rather long list: http://www.sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/TagNames/EXIF.html" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:00:07.040" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="14787" PostId="10144" Text="@ysap: we've got a whole question on that http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3419/ :)" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:02:10.923" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14788" PostId="10158" Text="Similar to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/162/which-xmpixel-is-equivalent-to-which-iso-film but note that the graph is quickly getting out of date." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:20:19.213" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14789" PostId="10108" Text="@mattdm Nice; I hadn't seen that answer before." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:23:07.137" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14790" PostId="2343" Text="Excellent answer, and I think it is critically important to bring the skill of the photographer with the processing tools they use into the mix." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:25:42.737" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14791" PostId="10108" Text="@Evan Krall: it's one of several which makes me which I could ★ answers." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:28:06.513" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14792" PostId="10159" Score="1" Text="14 stops is well within the bounds of what can be done when pull-processing film." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:33:05.027" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14793" PostId="1549" Text="I think ex-ms brings up a good point in his first comment -- you've got a stop-and-a-half range for sunlight. If you want your argument to be more convincing, you should find more exact values, rather than synthesizing your own by averaging. If the sunny 16 rule were calibrated for one end of the range instead of the middle, as you arbitrarily chose, then 12% would be more correct than 18%." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:39:37.513" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14794" PostId="10161" Text="exactly what I was going to type Eye-Fi + MyFi" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:49:31.747" UserId="3611" />
  <row Id="14795" PostId="10157" Text="I haven't played with my Eye-Fi in a while, but I seem to recall an option to upload images directly to Facebook or Flickr or other photo hosting sites." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:50:14.493" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14796" PostId="10159" Score="1" Text="The comparison also has to account for the analog color graduation of film.  It's substantially more than 12-14 bits per &quot;pixel&quot; or grain." CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:55:03.837" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="14797" PostId="10086" Text="I'm looking at the tripod kit on the B&amp;H website and it lists the quick release plate as being included. " CreationDate="2011-03-25T21:14:02.467" UserId="4429" />
  <row Id="14798" PostId="10089" Text="Thank you. I'm not sure I can justify the expense of a carbon fiber tripod at this time. " CreationDate="2011-03-25T21:15:44.383" UserId="4429" />
  <row Id="14799" PostId="10100" Text="Quick question: what about pictures where there is no real distance or depth involved like [this one](http://i.imgur.com/6M4JC.jpg); is that still *forced-perspective photography*?" CreationDate="2011-03-25T21:46:40.810" UserId="1607" />
  <row Id="14802" PostId="4870" Text="@RCProgamming — the point of a Q/A is to benefit from other people's trials, hopefully reducing errors. " CreationDate="2011-03-25T23:21:20.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14803" PostId="10100" Text="Nope. There's no forced perspective there. Not sure there's any sort of technical name for the photography in the picture you attached..." CreationDate="2011-03-25T23:38:37.330" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="14806" PostId="10128" Score="1" Text="The image you linked has expired. It is best to use the image tool to upload images to the local StackExchange content servers, so that temporal outages from other sites don't affect visibility here." CreationDate="2011-03-26T01:30:54.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14807" PostId="10170" Text="As I mentioned earlier, with CHDK it is possible to provide DNG (Obviously, when using a supported camera)." CreationDate="2011-03-26T01:57:39.767" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14808" PostId="10144" Text="@mattdm - whatever the method is, it just proves that RAW is not necessarily full resolution. So, it mat be possible to generate lo-res RAW stream from the camera to the recording device. Obviously, this is all theoretical since no (DSLR) camera supports RAW output." CreationDate="2011-03-26T02:00:37.240" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14809" PostId="5878" Text="Can you summarize?" CreationDate="2011-03-26T02:43:58.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14810" PostId="1454" Text="This question is _really_ specific to a certain point in the camera-release timeline of a specific manufacturer  — and to your particular battery problem." CreationDate="2011-03-26T02:52:17.817" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14811" PostId="3738" Text="I don't think it should be migrated, but you might try this over at http://unix.stackexchange.com/." CreationDate="2011-03-26T03:08:10.790" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14812" PostId="1505" Text="So, 3/4 of year later, there are approximately 8 zillion iPhone apps that do this, and probably that many for Android as well. Maybe if this question were converted to community wiki, it'd still be helpful in finding some good needles in that haystack." CreationDate="2011-03-26T03:39:11.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14813" PostId="1506" Text="This is a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1838/is-it-possible-to-convert-a-film-slr-to-digital (which is technically _later_, but which got better answers.)" CreationDate="2011-03-26T03:47:10.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14814" PostId="10133" Score="1" Text="Your camera probably isn't decaying or getting worse over time; it was always that bad. Your camera has [6.9 bits of dynamic range at ISO 400](http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fuji6900z/page12.asp) - modern compact cameras like the [Canon S95 don't get that low](http://dxomark.com/index.php/eng/Camera-Sensor/All-tested-sensors/Canon/PowerShot-S95) until ISO 1600. I'm not trying to make you feel bad - every digital camera sucked in 2001." CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:14:09.387" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14815" PostId="1827" Text="Another practical effect is that the _power_ of two given flash guide numbers can be compared by calculating the ratio of the _square_ of those two numbers." CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:22:14.030" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14816" PostId="1842" Text="On seeing the title, I was prepared to mark to close as subjective. But the lists given in the answers actually seem pretty useful!" CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:26:42.920" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14817" PostId="1872" Text="Whatever follow-up commentary was there is either gone or didn't really influence the answers. I think these questions should be merged." CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:32:28.583" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14818" PostId="1827" Text="The rule also fails with large light sources (softboxes, scrims) until the subject is far enough from the light source for it to begin to resemble a point source. *Very* close, the fall-off is almost non-existent since the outer reaches of the source are able to illuminate areas they couldn't &quot;see&quot; before as the subject moves away, then there is an area where the light fall-off is directly proportional to the distance. Once you get to about twice the longest dimension of the source away, the inverse-square rule is pretty much in effect again (but your source is no longer very soft)." CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:33:15.087" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14819" PostId="8722" Text="The Impossible Project's current films are _very_ finicky. They haven't gotten it all worked out yet." CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:43:01.307" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14820" PostId="1870" Score="1" Text="Above all, don't let your camera chose the color temperature/white balance -- shoot at least one frame with a grey card (or a Color Checker Passport, or a WhiBal, or what have you) in the lighting conditions you're shooting under. Once you've found neutral, it's easy to go warmer or cooler, but if you have no idea where you are, it's hard to get where you're going." CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:45:53.397" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14821" PostId="1901" Text="@mmr: I'm really torn on this question. On the one hand, you're asking some kind of specific things (what percentage of people are replacing an R800 _and_ have that exact list of needs for the replacement), making this question too localized to be really useful. But jrista's answer is good, and it seems like there could be _more_ general good answers. And we don't really have a great &quot;What do I look for in a photo printer&quot; question. I'd be nice if this one were edited to be more broadly applicable (as presumably you've made your decision on the immediate replacement already anyway!)" CreationDate="2011-03-26T04:47:01.507" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14822" PostId="10112" Text="You're making it a whole lot more complicated than it needs to be. *Steradians*, for instance, are the next-best thing to immaterial; they merely explain (in exposure terms) why an object can have a given apparent brightness even though you aren't receiving the full blast of all of the light it gives off. And an incident light meter is just a simplified camera and grey card in one unit, with 18% transmissivity instead of 18% reflectivity. A given lux level reflected from a grey card will give the same exposure value as the same level falling on the dome of an incident meter." CreationDate="2011-03-26T05:23:06.013" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14823" PostId="10028" Text="While not necessarily the answer I was looking for, it is certainly an answer I was expecting. Plus, you helped to explain the rational behind the sentiment.And if you and the bride feel the same way about the issue, then as they say, &quot;the customer is always right.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-26T05:27:35.190" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="14824" PostId="1547" Score="1" Text="@Sam, did you check histograms for individual color channels or just total luminance? In case of a blue surface, you could be blowing your blue channel while still staying below clipping on other channels." CreationDate="2011-03-26T06:40:11.913" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="14825" PostId="1371" Text="Good, an answer that answers the question!" CreationDate="2011-03-26T07:15:37.217" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14826" PostId="5878" Text="+1 for giving references. Too few people do this." CreationDate="2011-03-26T07:16:39.523" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14827" PostId="10183" Text="Wow, I really hope this explains things...it looks far more complicated now that I read it than it sounded while I was writing it..." CreationDate="2011-03-26T07:20:30.427" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14828" PostId="10112" Text="After researching those wikipedia articles you linked, I think it can be definitively stated that Google is wrong if it tells you 1 lumen is equal to 1 candela. On the contrary, 1 lumen is equal to 1 candela steradian, which is a more specific unit, and quite different than 1 candela." CreationDate="2011-03-26T07:49:14.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14829" PostId="10182" Score="3" Text="The great @mattdm, making one of those fatal mistakes he is so well known for pointing out in others! Shame! Should really be a comment. ;P" CreationDate="2011-03-26T08:56:38.840" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14830" PostId="10186" Text="Thank you for the quick reply. This was the cheapest tripod with decent height and degree markings as it'll be used for indoor panoramas (hence the 24 mm camera). Is there any chance the tripod plate will be seen at the bottom of the pictures?" CreationDate="2011-03-26T09:47:02.987" UserId="4347" />
  <row Id="14831" PostId="10133" Text="@Evan that sounds very convincing, thanks very much for the link. I'm astounded that my memory would play such tricks on me, but it *is* possible. If you'd post that as an answer, I'd be inclined to accept it" CreationDate="2011-03-26T13:15:18.197" UserId="1413" />
  <row Id="14832" PostId="10157" Text="Yes, but that requires a Wi-fi connection - you'd need to herd any demos towards a Starbucks to make sure the shots were being backed up!" CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:05:49.293" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14833" PostId="10184" Text="Very interesting and informative — thanks! But I'm still surprised that this niche use is the only thing so far. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:11:45.683" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14834" PostId="10189" Text="Do you mean the software interface _on the camera_, or the bundled PC software?" CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:17:43.497" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14835" PostId="10192" Text="Good advice; will be hitting a store soon, then. I'll be in NYC next week, so I can go to B&amp;H, and I'm near a bunch of Best Buy stores. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:19:18.377" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="14837" PostId="10189" Text="@mattdm - by &quot;OS&quot; I mean the camera's operating system, or the software that's on the camera; I've clarified the question. If there's a term I could use that would make this clearer, please feel free to edit the question. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:24:59.150" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="14838" PostId="10190" Score="3" Text="Pentax's &quot;Info button&quot; menu is really handy for quick (and fairly attractively-done) access to common settings. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:34:26.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14839" PostId="10189" Text="Firmware. I'll put that in the tags, but also remove [tag:camera-basics], which this isn't. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:47:31.473" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14840" PostId="10189" Score="6" Text="Also consider that a camera with a better _physical_ UI will make the on-screen UI design way less important. If you have to poke at menus every time you anything, it's crucial — but it's even better when you don't need to. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost/5889#5889" CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:53:21.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14841" PostId="10189" Text="@mattdm - Good point. Based in the answer you link to, though: Getting to settings quickly through physical controls (I assume exposure, f-stop, film speed, and so one) is a well-made point that I agree with. However, learning isn't really an issue, my friend spent many years as a professional studio photographer, and will want to change color-specific settings quickly and easily. Unless I'm mistaken, these will be UI-accessed.  What I want to do at this point is to weed out camera brands with lousy UIs. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T14:58:52.010" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="14842" PostId="10123" Text="Thanks for the helpful information mattdm - I've edited my answer.  Hope you don't find it too biased" CreationDate="2011-03-26T15:30:07.383" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="14843" PostId="10186" Text="24mm is wide but usually not enough to see the base of the tripod but I am sure you will understand that depends on the tripod itself and how far the lens sticks out." CreationDate="2011-03-26T15:30:39.047" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14844" PostId="10194" Text="+1 - Exactly right about the UI fading in importance as the user gets more advanced.  The reason I like the Nikon's UI is that I think it could be something of a &quot;bridge&quot; to help users learn the camera." CreationDate="2011-03-26T15:38:03.010" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14845" PostId="1870" Text="And/or shoot in RAW so that you can fix problems after the fact." CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:05:10.140" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14846" PostId="10194" Text="FTR the color-based settings mentioned in the comments to the question above are super-quick to get to, well-organzined, and very flexible. On the other hand, these settings just affect JPG (and maybe the defaults in some RAW converters), so may be less important to your friend.  " CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:11:54.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14847" PostId="10186" Text="@Itai Do the lens stick out when using the shortest focal length? You see, it'll be the first time I touch a camera. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:15:16.953" UserId="4347" />
  <row Id="14848" PostId="1905" Text="+1 for the heat. I tried these and always had to guard against burning myself. Very troublesome; go with CFL if you can." CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:15:36.093" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="14849" PostId="10182" Score="2" Text="Ha! I started it as a comment, but then I realized that the first part (&quot;_this_ site is a great resource&quot;) actually directly answers the question. So there. :-P" CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:18:09.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14850" PostId="10183" Score="1" Text="A little complicated at first, but careful reading brings sense to it all...   Phew - - brings me memories of many years ago where I studied steradians during my Space Engineering course..." CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:23:13.293" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14851" PostId="10182" Text="I actually agree with mattdm on that... his reply directly answers the question." CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:25:53.400" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14852" PostId="10188" Text="I want to stress the point again that xvYCC is not a 'color space', it is a really, at best, an encoding format for RGB color information. It supports a wider gamut not because its a color space, but because it stores color information using more bits of information, and stores them in a format that is closer to the way humans perceive luminance and color. " CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:31:28.573" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14853" PostId="10104" Text="You may find this question has some appropriate answers [how-do-you-protect-yourself-at-protests](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2823/how-do-you-protect-yourself-at-protests)&#xA;&#xA;It is mostly about staying safe, but that is just as important as getting the shots." CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:33:36.867" UserId="3611" />
  <row Id="14854" PostId="10184" Text="I guess, technically speaking, you could consider JPEG to be another image format that encodes data in a YCC compatible way. Part of the JPEG space savings is due to the fact that it encodes RGB data in a luminance/chrominance format, upon which the data is further compressed via lossy block compression. While the specific encoding xvYCC is not common in still photography, when you think about it, luminance/chrominance encoding is actually the most prevalent format." CreationDate="2011-03-26T16:33:41.850" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14855" PostId="10189" Score="1" Text="@neilfein - This is the right time to consult DPReview and find out which model has a button to access color-settings directly. I'll leave the full discussion of the utility of these settings to another question but you should at least know that the camera's LCD cannot accurately show differences between such settings. I would instead look for cameras with custom/user modes which would be prefilled with combinations tested using a color-calibrated display." CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:28:01.073" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14856" PostId="1051" Score="2" Text="@ex-ms, Minolta, Sekonic, Pentax and Gossen work to 18% grey while Canon and Nikon work to 12%. I have been unable to determine the figure for Olympus. Hogan's article is singularly inept." CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:44:45.893" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14857" PostId="1065" Text="@Karel: Minolta, Sekonic, Pentax and Gossen work to 18% grey while Canon and Nikon work to 12%. I have been unable to determine the figure for Olympus. Hogan's article is singularly inept." CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:48:58.730" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14858" PostId="1048" Text="@ex-ms:  Minolta, Sekonic, Pentax and Gossen work to 18% grey while Canon and Nikon work to 12%. I have been unable to determine the figure for Olympus. So to call 18% grey a myth is more than a little far fetched." CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:52:40.503" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14859" PostId="1547" Text="In trying to register for that site, it asks the following in german: `Zufällige Frage: Wie heißt die Kameramarke Can..? (alles klein)`, which in poorly translated english is: `Coincidental question: How is the camera mark CAN called.? (everything small)` I am not exactly sure what that is asking..." CreationDate="2011-03-26T18:31:07.977" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14860" PostId="10190" Text="@John, you say the UI should be one of the last things to consider. While I respect your preferences, in my own case it was the first and most important. I suspect that is true for the OP since he has gone to the trouble of soliciting guidance on the matter. Prior exposure does tend to shape one's UI preferences so you are right in suggesting her previous experience as a starting point." CreationDate="2011-03-26T20:08:20.903" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14861" PostId="1549" Text="While I fully agree that a 12% &quot;gray card&quot; is laughable, I think both Thom and everyone who has read his article misunderstands the point of 18% and 12%. As far as I understand 18% gray cards, they are printed with a middle-toned pigment ink (usually solid color) such that when viewed it is perceived as middle gray. I believe the 12% (or around there) number comes from the simple fact that an 18% gray card will **not** **reflect** all of the light it receives...some light energy will be absorbed, and some will be scattered in random directions, rather than at an exact angle, thus lower luma." CreationDate="2011-03-26T20:24:39.487" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14862" PostId="1549" Text="Your calculations demonstrate that the loss of reflected light is much lower than Thom's article indicates, clocking in at around 2% loss (16% rather than 18%). That makes a lot of logical sense to me, and still lends metering to using white balance cards created with an &quot;18% gray&quot; color." CreationDate="2011-03-26T20:26:31.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14863" PostId="1901" Text="@mattdm, I have indeed already gone with a decision, the canon 9500 mark II.  It is a very specialized question, so if you can suggest a more generalized title, I'm all for it.  But that list of requirements isn't so specialized, I think.  I'd say that those are really the minimum for any photo printer." CreationDate="2011-03-26T21:48:08.627" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="14864" PostId="10186" Text="@pestaa - That depends. *Most* cameras that have a flat front and where the lens has a built-in cover have to extend the lens to take pictures. From there most will extend out as you zoom in, some will retract. Some will extend first and then retract as you zoom in. Only cameras with a folded optics path never extend the lens out of the camera. *Most* of those can be recognized by the lens in one corner and it rarely has a cover." CreationDate="2011-03-26T21:48:21.943" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14865" PostId="10198" Text="Thanks; that's definitely one way of looking at it. I know that those file formats and broader color spaces exist. I guess what I'm really interested in is why there's a _push_ for greater color depth in the A/V world, but not in consumer-level photography." CreationDate="2011-03-26T22:02:38.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14866" PostId="6344" Text="People already showed you there is the possibility that it is still good. I had the opposite experience after about one year Pictures came out with severe degradation. Mind you it was not kept in controlled conditions just my home which varies temperatures with the seasons and get extremely humid in the summer." CreationDate="2011-03-26T22:42:50.257" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14867" PostId="10190" Text="@labnut - To each their own. Me, I want to know about handling, performance, sensor quality, IQ, and the like before I even consider what the menu looks like. In the end, the camera is for photographs, not menu browsing. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-26T23:51:18.083" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14868" PostId="10200" Score="2" Text="I'm with Itai on this one." CreationDate="2011-03-26T23:53:25.743" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14869" PostId="10194" Score="1" Text="+1 I didn't want to get specific, but my preference is for Pentax design here as well, but I still consider it much less of an issue than other factors." CreationDate="2011-03-26T23:56:28.300" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14870" PostId="10198" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: I think the reason there is a push for it is it wasn't there before. Wide-gamut/high color depth has been available for still photography for at least a decade, and as far as I know digital cameras have supported Adobe RGB (which does have a wider gamut than sRGB, although it does not quite support 98% of the Lab gamut) for some number of years. Canon's sRAW has been available in their entry and mid level DSLR's for at least a couple years. I would agree with Jerry...video is the domain that is &quot;catching up&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-27T00:48:39.790" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14871" PostId="10167" Text="I appreciate all your advice and wisdom but I find it a bit overwhelming. Like I said , this will be my first tripod. I have never used a tripod before. I've been hand holding my XTi for years and now that I'm learning more creative approaches to my pictures it seems to be less then adequate. " CreationDate="2011-03-27T01:07:44.267" UserId="4429" />
  <row Id="14872" PostId="10167" Text="I plan to use my tripod for taking pictures of small children and landscapes for the most part. The ability to get low (at least in my opinion) makes for better portraits of children. " CreationDate="2011-03-27T01:13:25.510" UserId="4429" />
  <row Id="14873" PostId="10189" Score="1" Text="Not to downplay the value of looking at dpreview (and letting a little of my own bias show): the Pentax K-7/K-5 have 1-button (or 2-button, depending on your settings) access to color settings, _and_ allow you to color-calibrate (to some degree) the camera's LCD screen." CreationDate="2011-03-27T01:55:26.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14874" PostId="1029" Text="I've found that if I always react to the screen as if I've just seen a beautiful photo, the subject only becomes more engaged and happy / flattered / coy etc..." CreationDate="2011-03-27T03:01:56.230" UserId="190" />
  <row Id="14875" PostId="10188" Text="@jrista, the IEC standard specifically calls it &quot;Extended-gamut YCC colour space for video applications - xvYCC&quot;, which strongly implies that it is in fact a color space. Having read up on YCC, I see where you're coming from on this, and not wanting to pay a hundred bucks to read the standard I can't be sure, but my current assumption is that it specifies _both_ an extended way of specifying color information in YCC _and_ an actual wider RGB color space." CreationDate="2011-03-27T03:34:54.233" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14876" PostId="10188" Score="1" Text="I'll have to read deeper into the specification. I am not exactly certain what the xv stands for yet, so perhaps that actually refers to some kind of wide gamut color space. YCC though, even if they use more bits, is most certainly not a &quot;gamut&quot;, its just an `encoding`. It would be like saying RGB is a color space...its not, its just a way of encoding color data. A `color space` defines the luminance and chrominance values of each color via a set of primary color mappings, a gamma key, a white and black point and some curves." CreationDate="2011-03-27T03:55:30.163" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14877" PostId="10157" Text="That's what tethering via your cell phone or Mifi is for." CreationDate="2011-03-27T04:01:06.180" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14878" PostId="10131" Text="Thanks - the CTR-301p is more in the budget range I was thinking about. I don't want to spend £200+ when I won't need it after upgrading the body. Thanks to the other posters too :-)" CreationDate="2011-03-27T05:15:35.820" UserId="1270" />
  <row Id="14879" PostId="10131" Text="@codecowboy - note that the regular optical slaves and the CTR-301P's optical slave are not compatible with Canon flashes, due to the pre-flash triggering them. You ask about Nikon equipment so you should be fine. There are slaves compatible with Canons. The I own the CTR-301P and used it successfully with the RF mode on my Canon equipment." CreationDate="2011-03-27T05:26:25.200" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14880" PostId="10131" Text="@codecowboy - I'm curious, though, why you are interested in such when you have a SB600? Doesn't it give you the wireless control you need built-in?" CreationDate="2011-03-27T05:27:25.870" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14881" PostId="6344" Text="@James - the cost of developing and scanning this should be pretty low, so why not give it a try? You may find treasures there..." CreationDate="2011-03-27T05:56:45.067" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14882" PostId="1509" Text="@reid - I guess it is not just the output, but people today are spoiled by the instantaneous feedback. I can't imagine myself going out today shooting with a film camera." CreationDate="2011-03-27T05:59:56.217" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14883" PostId="10201" Text="My earlier attempts to ask questions about human vision and photography went over like a lead balloon. So I thought maybe I'd try with some smaller bits rather than trying to ask for it all at once. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-27T07:27:29.613" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14884" PostId="10157" Text="True. Still, if the whole idea is to not get your equipment damaged, it seems stupid to have to bring along a laptop and risk that is well, not to mention the fact that most laptops are essentially off when they're closed. However, given the fact that most demos take place in large cities, and most large cities have fairly good public wifi 'cloud' access, doing it straight through a phone could be done. Just needs an app to do it." CreationDate="2011-03-27T10:21:07.757" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14885" PostId="10197" Text="I opened my camera's manual - a canon 550D - and searched for 12% and 18% (having a pdf version of the manual is fun), 12% doesn't appear anywhere, 18% appears 3 times, once in the context of white balance and twice in the description for a setting where &quot;the dynamic range is expanded from the standard 18% gray to bright highlights&quot;, so, it looks like canon uses 18% and not 12% (more likely than the other possibilities: that they use a different standard for the 550D than for the rest of their line or that the manual is incorrect)" CreationDate="2011-03-27T11:38:17.373" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="14886" PostId="10210" Text="Thanks!!I am just starting out. So a prime in the beginning will do. But I can save up for a better zoom lens." CreationDate="2011-03-27T11:47:16.260" UserId="4481" />
  <row Id="14887" PostId="10210" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind that you can always rent the lenses you need and that way you can also try out a few lenses before making your decision to buy one." CreationDate="2011-03-27T12:02:42.307" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="14888" PostId="10211" Score="4" Text="The lenses you have mentioned, every single of them costs more than twice the price of both lenses hes interested in. His budget is around 400$ for two lenses where each of your suggested lenses are between 800$ - 1400$.&#xA;Also he has mentioned hes using a crop body (1000D), so please make sure you read the question carefully before answering &quot;if you use one&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-27T12:35:10.153" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="14889" PostId="10211" Text="@ShutterBug: I removed that afterwards yes. And I did provide a few less expensive lenses in the recommendation and an opinion he should consider." CreationDate="2011-03-27T12:48:02.680" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14890" PostId="10209" Text="Take a look at the following article, it provides some pretty good info on your question: http://weddingdocumentary.com/for-photographers/best-canon-lenses-for-wedding-photography/" CreationDate="2011-03-27T13:07:27.720" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="14891" PostId="10210" Text="ShutterBug: to be honest I don't know whether it's possible to rent lenses in our country. It would definitely be very unusual." CreationDate="2011-03-27T13:50:58.460" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14892" PostId="10210" Text="@ShutterBug: I just wanted to say that renting of lenses may be unusual in some countries or even unavailable. Who rents out lenses anyway? Photo-shop? Resellers? Who?" CreationDate="2011-03-27T14:33:46.550" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14893" PostId="10188" Score="1" Text="I'm guessing &quot;xv&quot; is &quot;extended value&quot;, but it may just mean &quot;soudns cool&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-27T16:41:56.867" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14894" PostId="1432" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6667/when-should-you-use-a-normal-flash-vs-a-second-curtain-flash and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/566/what-is-second-curtain-or-rear-curtain-technique for technique on using flash to freeze motion with a trail behind. Probably not with _this_ camera, though." CreationDate="2011-03-27T16:47:37.567" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14895" PostId="10210" Text="@Robert Koritnik Lens rental services aren't that uncommon in countries such as America or Australia (where I'm from). There are web-based companies that specially deal in lens rental, and there are also camera shops that rents out equipments as well. I don't think ShutterBug's advice is irrelevant even though where prk does not have any camera rental services, as it may benefit any future readers of this question." CreationDate="2011-03-27T17:32:26.017" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="14896" PostId="1988" Text="Ken Rockwell is absolutely wrong in saying that this &quot; should eliminate ever having any card errors&quot;. It will help correct one (rare in practice) class of problems, but not everything else. " CreationDate="2011-03-27T19:53:46.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14897" PostId="2052" Text="@AJ Finch — simce there's already &quot;localized&quot; answers, I think this one should be closed and someone should ask the general question. " CreationDate="2011-03-27T20:11:19.953" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14898" PostId="10214" Text="Note that part of the difference is that Sigma seems to have put the filter completely on the outer edge of the lens while Nikon did not. Look at the filter size and diameters of these 3 lenses: http://www.neocamera.com/search_lens.php?mount=nikon&amp;focalwide=50&amp;aperturemax=1.4%3Amax&amp;prime=1&amp;by=feature - Nikon F/1.4D: 52mm filter / 64mm diameter, Nikon F1.4G: 58mm filter / 74mm diameter, Sigma: 77mm filter / 85mm diameter. I would not read much into it, you would have better luck getting useful information out of the MTF charts." CreationDate="2011-03-27T20:28:17.827" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14899" PostId="8058" Text="@gone - funny, this actually happened to me when I once printed this photo http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7784/techniques-for-high-speed-photography/7785#7785 at Walgreens. They wouldn't give me the print before I signed a declaration of original ownership..." CreationDate="2011-03-27T20:36:01.423" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="14900" PostId="10219" Text="The technique is high key, you might want to look at this: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5101/high-key-image-processing" CreationDate="2011-03-27T20:49:33.503" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14901" PostId="10219" Text="@John Cavan — hmmm, but the photo in the other question isn't really very high-key, despite the subject." CreationDate="2011-03-27T21:13:32.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14902" PostId="10219" Text="Am I missing something? The shots on that page are just nicely lit and well-processed, there's no particular effect going on." CreationDate="2011-03-27T21:37:22.120" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="14903" PostId="10221" Text="@Shellsunder, be aware of http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/ when looking at the answers you get. I think this question is a good one with a lot of value for many people, but if you're looking for specific &quot;buy this model!&quot; answers, you may be disappointed." CreationDate="2011-03-27T21:38:31.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14904" PostId="10219" Text="@ElendilTheTall — _some_ of them are definitely high-key, like http://daniellestahl.com.au/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/img_5326bw.jpg Others are done and processed differently. (Generally over-smoothed and over-saturated to my taste.)" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:27:26.733" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14905" PostId="10219" Score="2" Text="@mattdm: and some are just over the top in general -- the last B&amp;W of the first group (second-to-last before reaching &quot;view full post&quot;) has the eyes so over-processed they don't look even remotely human (at least to me...)" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:33:29.887" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14906" PostId="5127" Text="+1: holy hell, awesome answer!" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:34:00.273" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="14907" PostId="10219" Text="@mattdm - Matt Grum generally describes it and I think Jay Lance also does in another post. In general, I think the concept the OP is looking for is high key and there's a few posts here that describe it and how to do it." CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:34:42.580" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14908" PostId="10219" Text="@martin.malek, can you be more specific about exactly what result you're looking to replicate? It's unclear from the linked site, which has a variety of different photos." CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:37:35.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14909" PostId="10219" Text="@John Cavan: sorry, I'm being a bit dense — what do you mean by &quot;describes it&quot;? Matt Grum's answer in question 5101 doesn't describe a high-key photo. (Although it does awesomely explain how the picture was taken.)" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:39:50.923" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14910" PostId="5101" Text="Matt Grum's answer here is really good and describes what's going on very well. But the image is clearly marked with copyright and can't be used without permission. I've found the original gallery on facebook and linked to that." CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:41:39.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14911" PostId="5101" Text="If that link ever breaks, basically, it's a bunch of headshots in the same style as Matt Grum's excellent example below." CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:45:53.323" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14912" PostId="5127" Score="2" Text="@Matt Grum — the original question described this as &quot;high key&quot;, but I don't think that's accurate (other than the increased red channel for bright skin). Is there a name for this technique?" CreationDate="2011-03-27T22:48:36.350" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14913" PostId="10104" Text="@mattdm: the most interesting that the writer says that he broke his kit down to items that didn't do the job as well, but were more inconspicuous. So, uh, I wonder if Minox is still in business?" CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:00:21.737" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="14914" PostId="3323" Text="@icelava: the electronic interface is different, but CF and SD are effectively the same for this purpose. So the answers in http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/recover-deleted-photos-from-an-sd-card also apply. It's possible some low-level drivers could do other more-clever things, but i'm not aware of any software that works that way. Usually, recovery software uses the operating system's low-level driver to attempt to copy at the below-the-filesystem level, and then scans that for intelligible fragments of photos." CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:19:32.513" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14915" PostId="10226" Text="Sorry, that sucks. We've got some existing answers on trying to save files from memory cards with errors. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1125/recover-deleted-photos-from-an-sd-card and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3323/recover-photo-files-in-corrupt-filesystem-cf-card" CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:21:45.133" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14916" PostId="10226" Score="1" Text="Also, I want to add that probably doing disk error checking was a mistake. If you have problems on a memory card, flip the read-only switch immediately, and then make a recovery image before doing _anything_ else." CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:23:16.863" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14917" PostId="10226" Text="@mattdm: You could put your comments into answers because they seem (especially the second link) to be helpful. I'll try one of those in the morning actually and see what can be done (and hope for the best)." CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:36:28.773" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14918" PostId="10226" Text="I figured the first comment just points to _other people's_ answers, so they should get the credit. And the second comment might be helpful, but sounds like it's too late to be an answer now. :) Anyway, I hope you're able to salvage something." CreationDate="2011-03-27T23:37:58.277" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14921" PostId="4074" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3333/" CreationDate="2011-03-28T00:03:04.863" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14922" PostId="3333" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9263/why-cant-the-iso-level-on-most-digital-cameras-be-set-below-80/9266#9266" CreationDate="2011-03-28T00:04:06.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14924" PostId="10219" Text="@mattdm - Well, Matt Grum seems to think it does, so why don't you think it's high key? I realize you've disputed that in the original post, but you haven't really given a reason for it. Heck, the photos there definitely look like high key shots to me." CreationDate="2011-03-28T00:15:22.220" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14925" PostId="10227" Text="@Jerry, @mattdm: Added the last sentence to my question that should make it clear enough which cameras I'm aiming at." CreationDate="2011-03-28T00:22:25.130" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="14926" PostId="10219" Text="@John Cavan — in a high key image, I expect shadows to be almost completely eliminated and mid-tones pushed into brighter zones. If you look at Matt Grum's image, there's a lot of mid-tone and shadow detail." CreationDate="2011-03-28T00:39:02.910" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14927" PostId="10219" Text="@mattdm - High key reduces the lighting ratio and contrast, but there isn'" CreationDate="2011-03-28T00:53:30.827" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14928" PostId="10219" Text="@John Cavan — your last comment there got truncated. But nonetheless it's entirely possible that I learned the term wrong, or too narrowly. Hmmm, sounds like a question...." CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:02:35.800" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14929" PostId="10219" Text="@mattdm - High key reduces the lighting ratio and contrast, but there isn't a &quot;magic formula&quot; for when that is reached and you can then say image X is high key as a result. The OP linked to a site with low contrast, white dominated, images and that, at least, is the essential concept of high key... (sorry missed the edit window)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:03:24.003" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14930" PostId="10219" Text="Bah, the site is trying to drive me insane... :)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:03:54.910" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14931" PostId="10219" Text="@John Cavan — actually, _I_ linked to that gallery site. The original post directly embedded a clearly-copyright-marked image by the same photographer. And that original image is one where it's definitely more on the ambiguous side." CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:05:46.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14932" PostId="10219" Text="@mattdm - I was talking about this one for the links... :)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:10:14.720" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14933" PostId="10219" Text="Soooo, http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10232/ asks about the terminology now. Sorry for spamming this question so much. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:25:04.133" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14934" PostId="2076" Text="possible duplicate of [How can I maximise that &quot;blurry backround, sharp subject&quot; (bokeh) effect?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2/how-can-i-maximise-that-blurry-backround-sharp-subject-bokeh-effect)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:33:04.147" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14935" PostId="2" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9624/what-exactly-determines-depth-of-field" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:33:43.227" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14936" PostId="9624" Text="See related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2/how-can-i-maximise-that-blurry-backround-sharp-subject-bokeh-effect" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:34:10.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14937" PostId="2076" Text="Also see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9624/what-exactly-determines-depth-of-field and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5493/how-can-i-get-dramatic-shallow-dof-with-a-kit-lens" CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:35:09.560" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14938" PostId="6048" Score="1" Text="marcamillion, you should post an answer saying this and accept it." CreationDate="2011-03-28T01:55:16.687" UserId="1546" />
  <row Id="14939" PostId="6048" Text="Maybe. Or just leave my answer accepted, since it includes the possibility, even if it was the last on the list. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:00:32.340" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14940" PostId="2138" Score="1" Text="I noted that the other older post might be a duplicate, but I actually like this one better because it's not _just_ focused on backup, including also _effectively working with_ the data." CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:10:14.130" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14941" PostId="292" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2138/storage-recommendations for a question about high-capacity photo storage _in general_, not just for backups." CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:11:31.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14942" PostId="4016" Score="1" Text="Oh hey. This older question gives a case where it happened: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2089" CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:14:46.280" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14943" PostId="10228" Score="1" Text="ISO 20000?  Nice.  I'm jealous." CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:24:42.703" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14944" PostId="10224" Text="You'd should qualify 'extended'. Months, no problem. Years, will be because the internal rechargeable battery eventually runs out (even if on some high-end models it is replaceable)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:29:32.523" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14945" PostId="2203" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5031/is-a-model-release-needed-for-all-commercial-photo-sales" CreationDate="2011-03-28T02:38:19.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14947" PostId="9883" Score="1" Text="See also this question about damage from the sun: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4016/can-the-sun-damage-the-camera-sensor-under-what-conditions" CreationDate="2011-03-28T04:21:07.700" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14948" PostId="7962" Text="Stan Rogers has a great answer to _this_ question over at another question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8877/how-to-capture-the-scene-exactly-as-my-eyes-can-see/8919#8919" CreationDate="2011-03-28T04:28:02.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14949" PostId="9885" Text="Good answer, but I have not found any ghost reflection images (with filters) in my photos of candles." CreationDate="2011-03-28T05:32:09.503" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14950" PostId="10157" Text="Why would you need a laptop?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T05:53:03.963" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14951" PostId="10167" Text="Getting low is indeed important, and not just for the little ones, but most tripods will let you get very low. There's no law that says you have to extend the legs (it'll be even sturdier if you don't), and most good tripods will let you spread the legs out very wide. The XPROB system (any of them) will let you get right down to the ground (or as close as you can get with a tripod head under your camera) as will the Benbo; other tripod types make you shoot with the camera upside-down if you want a worm's-eye view." CreationDate="2011-03-28T06:14:29.677" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14952" PostId="10167" Text="That said, almost any &quot;pro grade&quot; tripod (one that doesn't feel like it's made of recycled '60s lawn chairs) will let you get down to a foot or a foot and a half from ground level (whatever the length of the center column happens to be). The 190XB will go low enough for most purposes; so will the taller models I mentioned. If you have a choice, it's best to go to a real photography store and have somebody demonstrate what the various 'pods can do. If you can save fifty bucks on the legs, you can spend it on the head instead, and a good ball head is worth its weight in gold." CreationDate="2011-03-28T06:27:41.307" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14953" PostId="10167" Text="Oh -- when I said &quot;it'll be even sturdier if you don't&quot;, I meant for low-down shooting. Your tripod will always be most stable when the center column is fully collapsed, and the less you have to raise the center column, the better. That's another reason why I like tall tripods -- I rarely have to raise the center column more than an inch or so, and that's only to fine-tune the height." CreationDate="2011-03-28T06:28:19.060" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="14954" PostId="10207" Text="+1 excellent answer" CreationDate="2011-03-28T06:38:37.857" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="14955" PostId="10230" Text="It seems ISO 160 is often implemented by [exposing at ISO 200, and then doing a digital pull](http://shootintheshot.joshsilfen.com/2010/05/13/canon-hd-dslr-native-iso). This gives you 1/3rd stop less noise, but also drops dynamic range by 1/3rd stop." CreationDate="2011-03-28T08:10:15.140" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="14956" PostId="10230" Text="@Evan Krall: on the cameras I'm talking about, that's not the case. On these, the noise gain from 100 to 160 is (maybe) .2 stops, and from 160 to 200 gains .8 stops of noise (seriously)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T08:26:11.010" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="14957" PostId="10236" Text="@priyanka - it is impossible to give you a short simple answer to your question as it is too general (unless you want to answer to be a list of available canon lenses). If you want an answer more specific to your needs, you need to tell us more about your shooting style, and simply what features you are missing in your kit lens. Is it too short for you? not fast enough etc?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T08:37:45.633" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="14958" PostId="1547" Text="It's a security question to keep out bots - The answer probably would be &quot;canon&quot; (in small letters, no caps)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T08:44:54.150" UserId="311" />
  <row Id="14959" PostId="2274" Text="@Avalanchis if you upgrade form 20d, do you own any lens already?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T08:51:41.003" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="14960" PostId="2052" Text="@mattdm, that makes sense.  " CreationDate="2011-03-28T09:12:25.113" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="14961" PostId="10170" Text="@jrista: thanks for detailed reply. Yes Raw video is quite new and at present only interest in it i guess would be 'academic/pedagogic'. I maybe wrong. " CreationDate="2011-03-28T09:31:08.883" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="14964" PostId="10128" Text="Thanks :) I will do so next time!" CreationDate="2011-03-28T11:31:15.107" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="14965" PostId="10230" Text="Evan: there used to be ISO160 film, which required just standard E61 processing (so no push/pull)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T11:59:13.700" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14966" PostId="10254" Text="Your links don't work!" CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:11:32.390" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="14967" PostId="8878" Score="1" Text="you forgot one: the human eye(s) has a different field of view from the image generated by most cameras (highly specialised cameras might exist). We don't see in 4/3 or 2/3 form factor." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:12:24.080" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14968" PostId="10222" Text="either photozone or dpreview could have been biassed in their testing of course :) I don't have the Sigma, but was less than impressed with other Sigma primes (though admittedly those weren't EX lenses, the EX zooms I have are very good)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:31:04.267" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14969" PostId="2160" Score="1" Text="Make sure you have real back-ups, too, though." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:31:34.053" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14970" PostId="10254" Score="1" Text="The links still don't work. I think they're session-specific." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:33:49.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14971" PostId="10214" Text="For a prime lens (especially in that focal length range) I'm more interested in size and weight, and the Sigma is significantly larger and heavier than is the Nikkor. Both being f/1.4 lenses, they're comparable in light gathering ability (of course one could really be an f/1.38 and the other an f/1.42, but that's marginal)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:34:03.233" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14972" PostId="10246" Text="Interestingly, after giving the number one million, that site continues: &quot;This is only an estimate, since it would be impossible to actually test all possible combinations. A few even believe the number to be as high as 7,000,000.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:40:36.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14973" PostId="10246" Text="The particular angle of that site — distinguishing between colors for legal reasons — is also interesting. This topic has quite wide applications. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:41:45.093" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14974" PostId="1926" Text="in autofocus systems another advantage of prime lenses (actually derived from the lower weight) is that they tend to focus much more rapidly." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:43:12.463" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="14975" PostId="10241" Text="+1 for a great list of candidates." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:55:36.493" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14976" PostId="10236" Text="If you're upgrading, you're trying to improve on some aspect(s) of your existing lens -- what is it, exactly, that you're trying to improve upon?  This will help elicit *much* better advice." CreationDate="2011-03-28T12:57:09.407" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="14977" PostId="2143" Text="but, one fire or water leak will destroy your whole backup?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:10:54.767" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="14978" PostId="2139" Text="@jrista - When using a ReadyNAS, what would happen 5 years from now if a drive in the RAID fails and you are no longer able to get a matching drive to replace it with? It is my understanding that a drawback of using a RAID is that all drives in the RAID must match." CreationDate="2011-03-28T14:37:51.093" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="14979" PostId="3671" Text="+1, same for the Sigma.  It's great to have a prime so close to normal for APS-C (27mm) at that price. My first lens." CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:02:49.737" UserId="2025" />
  <row Id="14982" PostId="9918" Text="I followed your link to Daminion. Looks interesting, but their entire site avoids the question of pricing. The page on the server mentions that pricing can be seen at their store, but I can't find any link to their store." CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:21:58.277" UserId="4272" />
  <row Id="14986" PostId="10228" Text="@DLambert - The newest sensors are awesome. You'll hit it on your next upgrade I'm sure." CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:55:00.840" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="14987" PostId="6285" Text="For lens-lineup comparison, see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9355/how-much-do-lens-lineups-vary-across-platforms" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:56:47.460" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14989" PostId="10219" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: I know there is lots of post processing. Lets say I'm looking for the results as is on fourth photo. I think I can do that by sharpening the photo and adding lots of contrast to the eyes. But I'm curious if there can be some partially automatic way how to do this, because to do the same process with every photo will take lots of time. I'm not looking for the high key." CreationDate="2011-03-28T16:51:36.410" UserId="4484" />
  <row Id="14990" PostId="10223" Text="Thanks for this.  This has helped my wife a lot." CreationDate="2011-03-28T17:07:21.283" UserId="4096" />
  <row Id="14992" PostId="10170" Text="@goldenmean: If you want the latest and greatest news, do some searches for 'Canon 5D Mark III' and 'Canon RAW Video'. There has been some interesting stuff cropping up on random news sites lately. I am not sure if the RAW video is true raw, or some form of their sRAW, which seems to be a YCC encoding (which would really be ideal for video anyway.)" CreationDate="2011-03-28T18:00:04.707" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="14993" PostId="3413" Text="+1 I like this method.  " CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:12:13.370" UserId="4498" />
  <row Id="14994" PostId="1129" Text="+1 for Recuva too.  I've restored pics and videos from hard drives that were deleted years ago.  I wished there was a version for the Mac." CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:14:57.483" UserId="4498" />
  <row Id="14995" PostId="10271" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1408/ also addresses cleaning lenses (and, in the answers, _not_ cleaning lenses), but is more general that this specific how-to question. You may also find the answers there helpful, though." CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:19:06.583" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="14996" PostId="10275" Score="1" Text="These are some great ideas." CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:19:39.367" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="14997" PostId="10278" Text="if they share the same sensor... what are the &quot;Features&quot; of the 600d vs 550d?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T19:49:28.773" UserId="4299" />
  <row Id="14998" PostId="10278" Text="@errorhandler - Since it's a little long, added the differences to the reply. None of those affect quality. The loss of the Eye-Start sensor is sad." CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:01:19.207" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="14999" PostId="10278" Text="@Itai thanks for your help!" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:02:50.790" UserId="4299" />
  <row Id="15000" PostId="10223" Text="Welcome. Hope she enjoys using whatever she goes for." CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:12:13.393" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15001" PostId="2139" Text="@Dave Nelson: The ReadyNAS does not require identical drives. It uses X-Raid, a proprietary adaptive RAID system. I am not sure about how well it would work mixing platter drives with SSD's, but there is nothing that would prevent me from dropping in a 10TB drive alongside my current 2TB drives. It is also possible to remove one drive, put in a larger capacity drive, and the X-Raid system will restore all the data from the removed drive via parity to the new drive. That was why I decided to invest the money (which was hefty) in the ReadyNAS NVX/" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:52:10.177" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15002" PostId="10246" Text="Great article and the accompanying articles are just as good." CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:52:25.543" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15003" PostId="2143" Score="1" Text="I also have backups on BluRay disk, which I keep in a fireproof safe. The ReadyNAS NVX is a live storage secondary storage system, not really a backup itself. You should always have &quot;hard&quot; backups of your critical data on a permanent form of media...any kind of live drive should never really be considered a true backup." CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:54:37.167" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15004" PostId="10273" Text="Will a sign printer support wide color gamut and 240ppi though? I've had some signs printed in the past, and they probably had at best 150ppi (probably more around 100ppi), and the color was rather limited (they were signs, after all, not fine art prints.) " CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:05:53.540" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15005" PostId="10289" Text="Yes, that does seem to be the same thing, THX" CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:06:42.223" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15006" PostId="10290" Score="1" Text="Any ideas what sort of things you'll be photographing?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:08:27.267" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15007" PostId="10238" Text="Any chance you could post an example image?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:14:33.210" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15008" PostId="10290" Text="Nothing specific, I'm looking for good all round lens" CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:15:32.550" UserId="4299" />
  <row Id="15009" PostId="10291" Score="3" Text="As a matter of fact, older DSLRs had this. The last Canon camera to have this was the 10D (In the prosumer line, I'm not sure about other lines...) When I got my 20D, my friend and former 10D owner wasn't impressed with the lack of this capability..." CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:16:57.497" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="15011" PostId="10273" Text="The results I have had are stunning with 1440 x 720 DPI. The new generation of signage printers produce good results. I have compared it with conventional photographic printing and could see no difference. Here are some specs: http://www.rolanddga.com/products/printcut/versa/specifications.asp#subNavTop I can assure you that signage printing is not what you think it is." CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:17:57.347" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15012" PostId="1055" Text="@jrista,  DxO are a respected organisation that have built up a large business around photographic testing. If we want to discard their results we need stronger arguments than essentially - 'I don't like their results'. DxO have gained a lot of acceptance. It is OK (and even good) to question but when you call their result a 'gross overestimate' you need to give real facts and references." CreationDate="2011-03-28T21:55:22.930" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15013" PostId="1055" Text="I think I referenced DPReview's tests. You can go on DPReview and look at tests for any camera tested by DxO, and see the difference. DPReviews test quite is standardized and based on real-world scenarios. They have never demonstrated a camera that is *actually* able to capture 11 stops of DR, let alone 14 stops. Is that not sufficient?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:10:46.380" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15014" PostId="1055" Text="@latnut: BTW, my own answer to this question, down a ways, has links to two specific reviews, with DR curves and EV results for the D3X and Canon 1D IV. Both cameras clocked in at less than 10 EV worth of DR in real-world tests, and averaged around 8-9." CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:14:20.123" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15015" PostId="10273" Text="Now, you stated DPI. DPI and PPI are not the same thing. When you say 1440x720 DPI, what exactly is that referring to? What was the actual resolution printed at? I can't imaging anyone printing at 720ppi for a sign of multi-foot dimensions...that would be an astounding waste of ink, to say nothing else. ;) At 1440x720 dpi, that would mean you could have a maximum resolution (PPI) of about 360, for a moderate tonal rage, or 180 for a more useful tonal range. I'm assuming this printer halftones images?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:16:51.540" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15016" PostId="10273" Text="@jrista, please read the printer specs, they say DPI. Please explain how you arrive at your number of 360 PPI?" CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:34:53.427" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15017" PostId="10273" Text="So, DPI is dots per inch. Reading the specs, that printer is an ink jet printer, so it is impossible for it to use just one &quot;dot&quot;, or a droplet of ink expelled from the print head, to create one full color...multiple ink drops of several colors (usually CMYK) are necessary to create a full color &quot;pixel&quot;. Since the maximum DPI on that printer is 1440x720, that would mean the maximum theoretical PPI (pixels per inch) is half that, or 720x360. That leaves only 8 &quot;dots&quot; per pixel, which will limit your maximum tonal range...you generally need more than that to create a wide gamut with CMYK. " CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:40:42.573" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15018" PostId="10273" Score="1" Text="The printer specs do state it is a wide gamut printer, so I am assuming that its normal print resolution is probably around half the 720x360 sated before, or 360x180. That should allow enough dots per pixel to support a decent color gamut. To contrast this with the print gamut kings: Epson's DPI is 2880x1440, with a max resolution of 720ppi. Canon's DPI is 4800x2400, with a max resolution of 600ppi. Epson and Canon achieve extreme gamut due to both DPI and range of ink, which tends to be 9-12 distinct ink colors." CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:43:05.927" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15019" PostId="10273" Text="I should be noted that Epson also has three ink droplet sizes, so for the 8 &quot;dots&quot; per pixel at 720ppi, you have a total of 24 different possible configurations (8 * 3). " CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:49:15.660" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15020" PostId="10291" Text="@Personartphoto: Ah, I hadn't realized that (obvoiusly!) It would be interesting to know why they dropped it -- it seems like a good  fit on a digital camera (with the ability to adjust the ISO to compensate for the aperture, if necessary)." CreationDate="2011-03-28T22:50:36.300" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15021" PostId="10273" Text="@jrista, Of course the Roland is not intended to compete with the small high quality photo printers you mention, but that is not the point at all. The quality is nevertheless high (in my opinion) despite being such a large printer. Will it be good enough for Itai? Possibly it will be. But Itai would have to make up his own mind about that and I am sure he would do some test prints to satisfy himself about the quality of the end result." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:11:44.423" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15022" PostId="10295" Score="1" Text="The YIQ encoding is the least of the challenges. Most of the content on a DVD is in VOB files. The content in the VOB files is MPEG encoded, which is decidedly non-trivial. While it's obviously *possible* to write your own MPEG encoder, I'd be surprised if even a superb coder could do it in less than a few months of full-time work." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:11:46.873" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15023" PostId="10295" Text="@JerryCoffin: Yeah, there are a lot of other concerns involved in encoding video. YCC encoding, MPEG conversion, Audio interleaving, packing into VOB, layout of the disk content, creation of the necessary menus and DVD scripting, etc. Thats a LOT of work..." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:17:01.933" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15024" PostId="10224" Score="1" Text="We're talking like 5+ years." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:19:35.273" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="15025" PostId="10273" Text="It does mention it is a wide gamut printer. It may not quite meet his resolution requirements, but for what it does print, it should be high enough quality. It is an ink jet printer, which is intriguing. That would mean it is not like a halftoning dye sublimation printer like many sign printers, which means that right out of the gate it produces better quality than you would normally expect from a sign printer." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:21:27.533" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15026" PostId="10293" Text="+1 for hands-on experience and trying different camera brands." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:52:44.960" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15027" PostId="10290" Text="You might also look at the 18-135mm kit lens." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:54:32.180" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15028" PostId="10291" Text="I suspect it was a very little used feature. It was replaced by the current A-DEP mode. I actually think both of them had the same name, but I'd have to ask someone who actually owned a 10D..." CreationDate="2011-03-28T23:55:29.170" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="15029" PostId="10298" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [Can the sun damage the camera sensor? Under what conditions?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4016/can-the-sun-damage-the-camera-sensor-under-what-conditions)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T01:28:53.473" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15030" PostId="10290" Text="possible duplicate of [Getting ready to buy an entry-level dSLR — should I skip the kit lens?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2274/getting-ready-to-buy-an-entry-level-dslr-should-i-skip-the-kit-lens)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T01:56:21.843" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15031" PostId="10282" Text="And soon the [D5100](http://nikonrumors.com/2011/03/27/more-on-the-nikon-d5100-announcement.aspx)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:19:24.850" UserId="3689" />
  <row Id="15032" PostId="10258" Text="Welcome to the site, Andy. Your original title was actually much better than the generic &quot;need help in lightroom 3&quot; — even better would be more specific to the actual problem. That draws in people who might know or be interested in figuring out the specific issue; the generic one is easily glossed-over." CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:31:14.183" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15033" PostId="10300" Text="Welcome to the struggle that the editors of dictionaries have every day. The historical meaning of a word or phrase is utterly meaningless if the vast majority of the public thinks that it is something else. Bear that in mind if you tilt against windmills. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:41:58.107" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15034" PostId="10304" Text="See http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/about_canon?pageKeyCode=pressreldetail&amp;docId=0901e0248028433f - Towards the bottom there is a clear paragraph saying the contrary. This answer should be voted down but with a reputation of 1, lets let it pass with a warning ;) I'll leave it up to you to check your sources next time." CreationDate="2011-03-29T02:50:58.767" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15035" PostId="10304" Text="@Itai: I'll make sure that the source is accurate.  I've always considered DPreview as reliable, but in the future, I'll confirm with the primary source where available." CreationDate="2011-03-29T03:05:36.850" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="15037" PostId="10270" Text="Duplicate answer. I did try recuva before but it expected a known filesystem to be present on the card. My card was toasted until the filesystem was unrecognisable." CreationDate="2011-03-29T04:46:30.340" UserId="802" />
  <row Id="15039" PostId="10292" Text="You're right. The A-DEP mode is probably the *only* mode that allows multiple focus points to be selected. However, we lose control over aperture and shutter speed which is totally ridiculous :|" CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:28:26.490" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="15040" PostId="10284" Text="Just found this [link](http://www.usa.canon.com/dlc/controller?act=GetArticleAct&amp;articleID=304). This is possible starting only with the EOS 7D series :|" CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:43:03.107" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="15041" PostId="10298" Text="partial duplicate, that post only refers to the sensor, this seems to be a more general question." CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:47:38.923" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15042" PostId="942" Text="Exposure lock does works in any mode right?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:53:46.217" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="15043" PostId="1099" Text="1) Spot Metering achieves just that.&#xA;2) You got that right.&#xA;3) Exposure Lock to the rescue.&#xA;4) Don't have any idea about this one." CreationDate="2011-03-29T06:56:46.450" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="15044" PostId="2528" Text="&quot;Silhouettes or intentionally over/under exposed shots for example&quot;&#xA;Just for the records, you can see some of the most amazing Silhouettes done on the Av mode. This statement of yours maybe limited to you, but can't be applied in general.&#xA;&#xA;Over/Under exposed shots can be done very easily on the Av mode. Again, nothing here that convinces of &quot;Exclusive dominance of the Manual Mode&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:00:21.377" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="15045" PostId="8567" Text="This doesn't look like an answer - if you meant to ask a new question, make sure you use the [ask question](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/ask) link above" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:40:57.303" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15046" PostId="10258" Text="@matt: Thanks Matt... will keep this in mind the next time...&#xD;&#xA;@jrista: Thanks&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-29T03:12:03.557" UserId="4489" />
  <row Id="15047" PostId="10292" Text="@Rish ultimately it's a choice of which variable you control - aperture (and associated depth of field), or shutter speed - `A-DEP` is effectively calculating an aperture to use for aperture priority, so it doesn't seem *that* unreasonable to me." CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:54:22.740" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15048" PostId="10313" Text="Don't agree with 'Instant back-up'. If a card starts to fail, there is no much chance not to fail everything else. In this case it would be more safe to store the same pictures on two cards - modern cameras support it" CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:06:25.187" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="15049" PostId="10313" Score="1" Text="@Genius but you'd have to be pretty unlucky to lose a *matching pair* (I agree that you're not going to lose just JPEGs or just RAWs though)." CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:08:53.420" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15050" PostId="10278" Score="1" Text="Unless you really want the tiltable LCD (looks like an accident waiting to happen to me) **the only big ticket item here is the wireless flash control** that may be very useful if considering studio photography." CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:17:38.953" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="15051" PostId="10292" Text="@Rowland Aperture and/or Shutter Speed should have NO effect on focus. Isn't? That's why I find this ridiculous." CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:20:14.577" UserId="1485" />
  <row Id="15052" PostId="10272" Text="+1 great question!" CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:20:52.760" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="15053" PostId="10313" Text="@rowland-shaw Thank God, this hasn't happened yet with me. So I hope I'm lucky ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:23:20.877" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="15054" PostId="1055" Text="@jrista, DPR results, astonishingly, are from jpegs. The real dynamic range can be obtained from RAW results, which is the way DxO do it. Why on earth would anyone use jpeg results to judge a professional level camera? Secondly we must define the goal of the measurements. Is it maximum measured dynamic range? Or is it 'usable dynamic range'? DxO  give the maximum measured dynamic range whereas DPR seemingly give, what is, in their judgement, the 'usable dynamic range'. Both are useful goals. But 'usable dynamic range' introduces a subjective element, namely, 'usable'." CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:34:30.850" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15055" PostId="1055" Text="@jrista, Now your definition of 'usable' and my definition of 'usable' might be two entirely different things. When one does rigorous comparative tests it is very necessary to remove the subjective element as much as possible. DPR concede that RAW measurements give greater dynamic range. For anyone that works in RAW, this is what matters and this is the real dynamic range. In fact, if you add what they call the RAW headroom to the jpeg results you come to a result not very different from that of DxO. The remaining difference can be put down to test methods." CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:44:54.693" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15056" PostId="1055" Text="@jrista, so I stand by my assertion - to call the DxO measurement a 'gross overestimate' is unwarranted. It is not an estimate, it is a careful and accurate measurement. They work from RAW, not jpegs. The goals of their measurements are not the same as DPR. They remove the subjective element from their measurements." CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:50:11.507" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15057" PostId="10317" Score="1" Text="_The normal professional solution is to place gels (big plastic filter sheets) over the external windows_ - Hmm, I would definitely not want to use this as universal solution - what if the windows are really big - how big plastic filter sheets would you need? Although, it sounds like interesting solution when it comes to interiors with smaller windows." CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:24:10.673" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="15058" PostId="10316" Score="1" Text="I don't know how good this solution is because the outdoor lighting usually spills over window frame and if you would use the frame from underexposed picture, you would have black window frame" CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:30:25.160" UserId="3614" />
  <row Id="15059" PostId="10226" Text="@mattdm: Please put your first comment links in an answer because I will accept it. It helped me big time. And I'll go and vote those up as well." CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:41:30.370" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15060" PostId="10292" Text="@Rish Lenses focus at a single distance -- aperture affects how far away from that distance *appears* to be in focus (i.e. depth of field). The shutter speed is just the balancing figure to get the correct exposure." CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:42:15.560" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15061" PostId="10317" Text="Keep in mind that fine architectural photography is often done using view cameras (in order to take advantage of the movements -- tilt/shift lenses are *very* limited in that regard), and that makes the digital option painfully expensive. Using gels is actually the cheap way out -- they make 'em huge for cinema/tv industry use, and they *are* reusable." CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:43:11.867" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15062" PostId="1130" Text="+1 for **PhotoRec**: I was able to recover all the photos from a card that reported of not being formatted (destroyed file system). I wasn't able to access it in Windows at all (not to mention camera). All photos intact and great. Thanks to the maker of this program. Software is also very straight forward even though it asks a few computer-oriented questions (like platform and file system type etc)." CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:43:45.050" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15063" PostId="3326" Text="+1 for **PhotoRec**: My card had a destroyed file system (Windows and camera didn't recognise it), but I was able to recover all photos from it by using this great software. Can't recommend it more!" CreationDate="2011-03-29T09:48:07.620" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15064" PostId="10316" Score="1" Text="No, you just cut out the properly exposed window (i.e. whatever you can see through the window) and paste it in to the properly exposed interior shot. A bit of light feathering (1px) will stop an artificially hard edge. You keep the window frame from the interior shot - you are only pasting in the 'glass'." CreationDate="2011-03-29T11:10:20.327" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15065" PostId="2143" Text="indeed, I thought you forgot to mention it, but now I read the question again and the question was not about the back strategy." CreationDate="2011-03-29T12:02:27.943" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="15066" PostId="10320" Score="3" Text="Saying &quot;The principle disadvantage is that it doesnt work..&quot; is a very - too - strong statement. AWB works for a lot of everyday shooting with good results. I agree that there are special cases where you want to calibrate the WB yourself, and the example you bring (white - yellow) is great." CreationDate="2011-03-29T12:46:58.433" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15067" PostId="10320" Text="@Matt: But which setting do you mostly use? What's your experience?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:08:07.213" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15068" PostId="10322" Score="1" Text="Thanks Matt. I used **PhotoRec** program as recommended in both links and I was inseed able to recover photos from a  currupt file system SDHC card. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:10:15.357" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15069" PostId="10326" Text="This card wasn't mine nor was camera. I prefer SanDisk as well for personal needs." CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:13:00.453" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15070" PostId="10320" Text="@ysap I've revised my answer, to be honest my experience has always been of AWB being abysmal, and I've seen enough badly whitebalanced shots to suggest this isn't an exception. I accept there may be some cameras that do it well but essentially it's an underconstrained problem (meaning it lacks a unique solution so guesswork is required)." CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:21:28.860" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15071" PostId="10320" Text="@ysap you could also say that setting your camera to &quot;daylight&quot; white balance works for a lot of everyday shooting with good results, that doesn't mean that the daylight setting provided effective auto whitebalance! " CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:25:09.000" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15072" PostId="10320" Text="@Robert I shoot raw so don't worry about whitebalance 'till post (where I set it by eye) but I also have the camera record small JPEGs with auto-white balance so I see how far wrong the camera gets it... I have several Canon DSLRs and they're all as bad as each another. " CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:28:07.953" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15073" PostId="10332" Text="This is off-topic here — it's more a web question than a photography (or photographer) question. I took a look at http://www.archive.org/, but while they have a _moving images_ archive, still images seem to be left out. (Also, do you need _public domain_, or is CC-licensed okay?)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:40:12.877" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15074" PostId="10333" Text="For most public domain image collections I've seen, the images are of fairly poor quality, or are of subject matter over a hundred years old, and therefore obviously public domain. In any case, it's for personal research purposes, so I'm not terribly concerned." CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:08:11.787" UserId="4513" />
  <row Id="15075" PostId="10332" Text="Yes, CC-licensed would be ok. I'm not making any money off of this project, so any resource that's free would probably work." CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:22:07.757" UserId="4513" />
  <row Id="15076" PostId="10328" Text="That was it, thank you so much!" CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:25:07.527" UserId="4512" />
  <row Id="15077" PostId="10333" Text="Also, many of the resources are hosted by the U.S. federal government, or other non-profit institutions. It's unlikely they've stolen their images." CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:25:21.967" UserId="4513" />
  <row Id="15078" PostId="10328" Score="2" Text="I was in slideshow mode!" CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:26:02.907" UserId="4512" />
  <row Id="15079" PostId="10332" Text="How important is the size of the images?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:27:02.153" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15080" PostId="10332" Score="1" Text="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Public_domain_image_resources" CreationDate="2011-03-29T14:46:23.463" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="15081" PostId="10332" Score="1" Text="How is accessing photographic archives off topic of photography?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T15:45:04.830" UserId="4513" />
  <row Id="15082" PostId="10336" Score="1" Text="It's also all naturally lit, incidentally." CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:15:35.803" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15083" PostId="10324" Text="As an aside: Pentax's higher-line cameras have an (optional) feature where they use a slight automatic adjustment even when WB type has been selected manually. This presumably helps because &quot;sunlight&quot; (for example) isn't the same at all times of year, all times of day, all latitudes, all altitudes etc." CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:22:16.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15084" PostId="1055" Text="@labnut: I think you are mistaken about DPR results. They test both JPEG, as well as RAW, and that is clear because they are using ACR to process the RAW files." CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:52:55.860" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15085" PostId="1055" Text="@labnut: As for dynamic range and the definition of usable. You can only realize the &quot;full&quot; dynamic range when you do not attenuate your images with a tone curve. That is certainly possible, however I encourage you to take a look at an unattenuated image...they look terrible. The moment you apply a tone curve, you immediately lose visible definition between tones in the shadows and highlights ranges. That is what I am referring to when I say &quot;usable&quot; dynamic range. The foot and the head of the tonal range are compressed, which reduces the effective DR in a useful image." CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:56:01.740" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15086" PostId="1055" Text="@labnut: I don't deny that DxO measures actual dynamic range, and I also agree it is a useful way to compare cameras from a pure hardware perspective. The problem I have is that different cameras and different image processing chips apply different tone curves that are tuned to each sensor to produce the best results for that particular camera. In the end, the dynamic range of IMAGES output by a camera (RAW or JPEG) is lower than the physical, hardware maximum DR. Thats what I mean by usable, real-world DR, vs. hardware DR. I guess both measurements are valid, but which is most useful?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T16:58:51.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15087" PostId="1055" Text="@jrista, I am glad to see we are in agreement. DxO and DPR conduct different measurements to achieve different goals, each valid for its intended purpose. DxO conduct rigorous testing to make accurate comparison of systems possible. DPR conduct tests that give camera users a useful indication of the performance that can be realized by them with their camera. Two answers to two questions. Which is most useful depends on which question you are asking." CreationDate="2011-03-29T17:33:01.973" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15088" PostId="10341" Score="1" Text="I like your point that, when working in RAW, it is normally better to use AWB." CreationDate="2011-03-29T17:39:59.243" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15089" PostId="10340" Text="@rfusca - thanks, I see your point about the burst being so short it would likely not be a problem. Would this single strobe need to be more powerful than the other arena strobes or is the fact that it is the only one going off at that time enough to create the effect?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T17:55:08.920" UserId="2873" />
  <row Id="15090" PostId="10342" Score="5" Text="Sorry, I'm having a hard time extracting the question here.  It sounds like you're looking for a recommendation for a zoom macro lens that's of higher quality than the 18-55mm kit lens - is that close?  The other notes aren't really helping the clarity of your question." CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:11:21.257" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="15091" PostId="10340" Text="How strong it needs to be to create a dramatic difference between your background a subject depends on the distance to your background somewhat.  It would need to be stronger than any other lighting casting light into your frame during your exposure." CreationDate="2011-03-29T18:46:38.720" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15093" PostId="10340" Text="Still short, but I bet the light burst itself is much closer to ¹⁄₂₀₀th overall, if it's firing at full power." CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:04:07.777" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15094" PostId="10341" Text="I'm glad to see this... because when shooting in RAW, I really appreciate not having to futz with the WB settings." CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:06:54.063" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="15095" PostId="10340" Text="@mattdm - if its a full power on a studio light - you're right, entirely possible" CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:21:39.657" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15096" PostId="10340" Text="Even on a hotshoe strobe — the full T.1 durations at full power are longer than people expect. " CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:28:37.610" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15097" PostId="10340" Text="Indeed, I was intending in my answer to not necessarily be talking about a full power pop, but you are correct. " CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:41:06.003" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15098" PostId="10340" Text="And I believe an SB-600 for example is 1/900th at full power." CreationDate="2011-03-29T19:46:58.713" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15099" PostId="10352" Text="Very good point I forgot to address." CreationDate="2011-03-29T20:37:22.430" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15100" PostId="10340" Text="It's far more likely that a pack-and-head system is being used, and for sports one would normally use multi-tube heads (at least a dual, but sometimes quads) to dump the power as quickly as possible. Getting 1000 joules out in a five-thousandth of a second through a single head &amp; reflector is no problem at all." CreationDate="2011-03-29T20:46:51.177" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15101" PostId="10340" Text="Lol, I wasn't suggesting a hotshoe strobe was used - only commenting on mattdm's comment about full pop durations on a hot shoe." CreationDate="2011-03-29T20:49:08.657" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15104" PostId="8574" Text="I'm not exactly sure what this refers to. If you were trying to comment on someone elses answer, then you will need to delete this and post a comment on that answer. If you wish to offer an actual answer, you should edit your post to provide something more useful than what you've currently stated about Lensbaby, as that does not directly pertain to the question." CreationDate="2011-03-29T21:22:00.100" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15106" PostId="10255" Text="+1, ×1,000,000." CreationDate="2011-03-29T21:28:03.903" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15107" PostId="10320" Text="@Matt Grum - My experience (well, maybe my personal vision system is not so critical so I can accept less than perfect results) AWB in the Rebel XT and 7D works great for most situations. Contrary to your claim on Daylight WB, my experience is that it works well for flash photography (but then, it is possible that the camera is aware of the flash and changes the WB mode accordingly), indoor photography, etc. I am not claiming it is perfect, but really good enough for most of my shooting." CreationDate="2011-03-29T22:26:20.497" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15108" PostId="10320" Text="@Matt Grum - I agree re the assumptions and guesses, but so is the auto exposure, isn't it? And yet, many times you get pretty good exposures from your camera in anything other than the Manual mode." CreationDate="2011-03-29T22:27:56.220" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15109" PostId="10341" Text="@jrista - I find it hard to understand the reasoning in you first paragraph. Since, AFAIK, RAW does not record the WB corrected pixels, but rather the raw (duh...) pixels, why can't you do the exact same corrections when the shot was done with a (supposedly correct) WB, or even an incorrect one?" CreationDate="2011-03-29T22:32:56.323" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15110" PostId="2593" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6256/really-why-does-a-nikkor-35mm-f-1-4-cost-almost-2-000" CreationDate="2011-03-29T23:05:09.293" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15111" PostId="6256" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2593/why-do-some-lenses-cost-so-much/" CreationDate="2011-03-29T23:05:39.653" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15112" PostId="10201" Text="Although apparently the scary title of this one has driven people off. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-29T23:59:01.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15113" PostId="476" Score="1" Text="You could move to a city where smoking isn't allowed in bars. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:05:08.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15114" PostId="874" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/511/" CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:09:21.680" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15115" PostId="10340" Text="No, it's not likely anybody was thinking &quot;that's gotta be an SB800!&quot;. I just wanted to point out that a *lot* of flash power doesn't need to mean a long duration. I (well, a team of us) used a system a lot like the one I described to shoot hockey once. We had seven &quot;hot spots&quot; (one behind each goal, four between the in-zone faceoff circles and the blue lines and one at center ice) each with four 500WS speed packs feeding a quad head at half power. Not only could we freeze speeding skaters, it'd keep up with a 3fps motor drive. (Remember when that was fast?)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:17:17.623" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15116" PostId="631" Text="This question is really kind of vague. Sean, could you be more specific about your concerns? What are you doing? Is this for a photography project or is it for film?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:22:10.817" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15117" PostId="10246" Text="So, this site suggests 20 bits, 22 if we take the higher number. 8 of the bits devoted to hue." CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:31:37.817" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15118" PostId="63" Score="2" Text="Still don't understand the downvotes. The question is about *REAL* downsides. A *REAL* downside of using a UV filter would be  something that prevents you from achieving something. For example using DX lens has a *REAL* downside: can't be used on full frame cameras or using built-in flash has a *REAL* downside: hard shadows and washed out faces. I guess what I'm trying to say is that comments are for opinions and downvotes are for WRONG answers. So please read the original post before downvoting." CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:50:13.320" UserId="65" />
  <row Id="15119" PostId="10330" Text="@Itai - doen't the problem of differences between light sources mutual to all categories? I mean, if you (or your camera) set the WB to some temperature, at most one light source will be perfectly balanced, doesn't it?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T00:56:10.240" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15120" PostId="10330" Text="@yasp - Yes. Even sunlight varies color temperatures depending on the angle of the sun and season. I guess it just shows more with artificial light. Some cameras have an option for presets to be exact or variable (basically semi-Auto)." CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:17:17.657" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15121" PostId="10341" Score="1" Text="@ysap: Well, for background, speaking from experience with Canon...a .CR2 file contains the raw bayer sensor dump, as well as all the camera settings, which includes the selected WB. By default, when I import a photo, it renders with whatever white balance was recorded by the camera. I rarely ever leave it that way, though, as it is usually wrong. I use the Lightroom WB picker tool to select an area of my image that is &quot;neutral&quot; in color, and manually correct my white balance. Sometimes I further tweak WB with the temperature &amp; tint sliders. " CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:37:38.890" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15122" PostId="10341" Text="@ysap: As for your question...if I understand what your asking...yes, you could technically pick any WB setting in your camera, or use a custom WB. It doesn't really matter, however AWB tends to be pretty accurate most of the time. That matters because it affects the histogram, which is generated from a **JPEG** thumbnail. If your JPEG has an sufficiently incorrect WB, it affects the accuracy of the RGB histogram (and even to some degree, the monochrome histogram.) As such, I think it is best to use AWB, despite the fact that it too can sometimes produce very wrong results." CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:39:00.480" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15123" PostId="10092" Text="There's a few things I'd like to try: (1)timelapse photography, (2)bulb photograph (i.e. like for fireworks) but without having to press the shutter release button manually, (3) take a sequence of images in successive depths of focus to allow (with image registration software?) to get better depth of field with macro photos.(4) lightning :)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:39:54.103" UserId="4432" />
  <row Id="15124" PostId="10208" Text="I'm sure there's been statistics collected for the &quot;Farnsworth Munsell 100 Hue Test.&quot;  Here's a crappy online version which I am sure is affected by monitor calibration: http://www.xrite.com/custom_page.aspx?PageID=77&amp;Lang=en" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:48:57.767" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="15125" PostId="10341" Text="@jrista - but, the histogram should be calculated according to the current WB settings. You change the WB and the histogram changes. Obviously, the operation is reversible (I'm referring to the RAW processor, not jpeg), and the actual (raw) pixel values don't change. So, I can't see why the WB set at the time of shooting really matters." CreationDate="2011-03-30T02:23:00.883" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15126" PostId="1896" Text="I'll second the LaCrosse suggestion.  It can test the capacity of each battery and attempt to refresh it.  You can use higher power levels to charge/discharge faster, but I prefer a slow charge myself.  slickdeals.net is all over these chargers when they go on sale." CreationDate="2011-03-30T02:29:01.503" UserId="3723" />
  <row Id="15127" PostId="10246" Text="I'd say they got it pretty right when they decided 24 bits was enough accuracy for monitors. I know I can see 18-bit TN panel colour, but 24-bit is as smooth as I can practically see." CreationDate="2011-03-30T02:29:42.527" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="15128" PostId="10341" Text="@ysap: The histogram on the camera itself is generated from a JPEG thumbnail on most cameras (I don't know of any that generates right off the raw data). And that is exactly my point...changing the WB changes the histogram. At lest for how I work, I prefer my in-camera histogram to be as generic and neutral as possible...which is usually what I get with AWB (not always, but usually.) If I switch to say Cloudy, that changes the weighting of red to green and blue, and my histogram often shoes that reds are blown out when I ETTR." CreationDate="2011-03-30T03:48:54.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15129" PostId="10341" Text="@ysap: If you could care less about the accuracy of the in-camera histogram, then yes, you can shoot at any WB setting, and it won't matter a wit when you sit down and manually set WB during post processing. Its entirely up to the individual to decide what WB they want to use. My point about using AWB is simply that it produces a pretty generic result, not tinted much one way or the other, most of the time. Since you are going to edit WB in post anyway, that seems pretty ideal. Its not a hard and fast rule, and if you prefer to use &quot;Cloudy&quot; or &quot;Custom&quot; all the more power to you." CreationDate="2011-03-30T03:50:43.683" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15131" PostId="10210" Text="Well, I don't live in a top-notch techy country and even we have rental services. I assume its available almost everywhere, you just need to know where to go. You can ask fellow photographers for help and I'm sure you'll get someone who does." CreationDate="2011-03-30T04:06:07.767" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="15133" PostId="5163" Text="Even neater would be TWO of such polarizers so you'd have a built-in variable-ND filter. But there's a complication - adding glass between sensor and lens would slightly change back-focal length, so the camera would either have to adjust distance between lens and sensor, or pop out a replacement clear glass when the polarizer is not needed." CreationDate="2011-03-30T04:36:32.000" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15134" PostId="10365" Text="fascinating response and an interesting read, but I wonder, what will you do with the bounty!" CreationDate="2011-03-30T04:39:38.813" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="15135" PostId="10321" Text="The benefits of raw over JPEG have been clearly espoused on other questions. I'm asking when storing both raw and JPEG would be better than raw alone." CreationDate="2011-03-30T04:43:27.487" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15136" PostId="10368" Text="How are these images licensed?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T05:05:45.437" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15137" PostId="10365" Text="I didn't even realize there was a bounty until now. I certainly don't need it...I just like color questions. ;)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T05:19:34.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15138" PostId="63" Score="3" Text="you don't answer the question, hence the downvotes." CreationDate="2011-03-30T05:58:49.450" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15139" PostId="106" Score="2" Text="otoh I had something similar happen (also with a 50mm :) ), but there the filter scrammed so bad it took enough force to remove to permanently damage the threading on the lens. Glass dust from the cracked filter also caused small scratches on the front element, was lucky none got into the lens body... Later another lens fell on its thread, causing a minor chip in the edge of the front element that has no visible effect on the photos produced since. In fact it's now better with chip and no filter than prior without chip but with filter. Suffice to say I no longer use &quot;lens protectors&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:02:02.537" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15140" PostId="10368" Text="you'd have to contact photo.net. I assume they made them, so they own the copyright on them." CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:05:04.547" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15141" PostId="10368" Text="It says &quot;© Copyright 2004 Bob Atkins (www.bobatkins.com)&quot; under the review" CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:06:49.810" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15142" PostId="10367" Text="Minolta used to include such a thing in their lens catalogue. A single photo taken at each focal length between their smallest and largest lens, from the same position and in the same light." CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:06:59.007" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15143" PostId="10368" Text="Does this mean they need to be removed?  Sorry, I'm not familiar with the photo.se policy on such things." CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:52:07.887" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="15145" PostId="9810" Text="Thanks to everybody for your responses! :)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T07:18:42.377" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15146" PostId="7648" Text="Thanks to everybody for your answers! Check out the latest edit to my question for my conclusion.." CreationDate="2011-03-30T07:29:54.723" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15147" PostId="10368" Text="The &quot;Legal&quot; page says: &quot;You agree that all Subscriber Content that You contribute to the Network will be licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share Alike license.&quot; Since you don't have the copyrights for images, you may not give out licenses for them. As I understand, you should either ask Bob Atkins to grant the license, upload your own images, or remove the images and be satisfied with the link to photo.net review." CreationDate="2011-03-30T07:36:12.490" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15148" PostId="10341" Text="@jrista - so you are talking about the in-camera histogram. I had the post-processor histogram in my mind. Your point is clear now." CreationDate="2011-03-30T08:18:43.150" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15149" PostId="10368" Text="@evan-krall also don't forget to ask the license for the nesting boxes, couple of trees and the fence (irony)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T08:47:11.160" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="15150" PostId="10370" Text="Thanks for the link, this is the answer I guess. +1" CreationDate="2011-03-30T08:53:34.290" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="15151" PostId="10369" Score="1" Text="a recycling credit? wow, where do you live that such a concept is in place???  Around here we have to pay a hazardous materials fee to dispose of rechargeable batteries. (it's not much, was like $1.50 for my last batch of 8 AAs.)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T08:56:33.303" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15152" PostId="10320" Text="@ysap since camera flashes are daylight balanced by design it doesn't surprise me that the AWB mode works as well with flash as it does in daylight. But try shooting under incandescents and your subjects will all look like oompa-loompas." CreationDate="2011-03-30T09:16:30.573" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15153" PostId="10368" Text="Cheers all, removing the images now, apologies to Bob." CreationDate="2011-03-30T09:20:18.790" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="15154" PostId="9517" Text="Surely the size of the sensor effects 'how zoomed in' you are in addition to the focal length of the lens?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T09:28:35.853" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15155" PostId="10373" Score="3" Text="To my untrained eye that just looks like ambient light from a slightly overcast sky..." CreationDate="2011-03-30T09:56:03.533" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15156" PostId="10374" Text="well is meant for each. any suggestions? " CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:07:44.523" UserId="1924" />
  <row Id="15157" PostId="10373" Text="@ElendilTheTall no, that can't be it. background and the highlights on the hair on the right suggest a clear sky, but then her face would be much darker." CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:09:32.480" UserId="4529" />
  <row Id="15158" PostId="10373" Score="1" Text="Hmmm... then perhaps a late afternoon with the sun as you describe, with maybe a reflector to light the front. I'm not getting 'flash' personally." CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:13:16.343" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15159" PostId="10375" Text="@chris I've heard good things abt the 15-85mm lens. What are your thoughts on that? Is that sufficiently wide-angle for most cases?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:17:10.413" UserId="1924" />
  <row Id="15161" PostId="10375" Text="@sfactor, I've no experience with that lens personally but it's been reviewed well as you say. However if you're considering buying a purely wide angle lens, then I don't think it will be sufficiently wide angle for you. " CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:48:37.250" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15162" PostId="923" Text="+1 For the lock up suggestion." CreationDate="2011-03-30T10:54:48.663" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15163" PostId="10373" Text="true, that could be it. it would have to be really big, though, to create such a soft light." CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:02:25.960" UserId="4529" />
  <row Id="15164" PostId="10373" Text="You get a big soft light in the golden hour from the sun bouncing off the ground and everything else around, due to the direct light being absorbed and further scattered by clouds, the reflected light is a lot lot brighter than at midday. I don't think a reflector was necessary for this shot." CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:12:01.520" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15165" PostId="10373" Text="@florian: Not if it was diffusing through light cloud or trees." CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:12:26.340" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15166" PostId="10363" Score="1" Text="+1 for AF being of little use" CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:12:59.800" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="15167" PostId="10374" Text="Sigma EX 70-200 f/2.8 and 10-20 f/3.5 come to mind (without checking prices). " CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:15:16.307" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15168" PostId="10377" Text="After so many people pointed in the 'no lighting setup at all' direction, I'll mark this question as answered. Thanks to everyone who shared their opinion, I'll try it for myself on the weekend." CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:16:52.187" UserId="4529" />
  <row Id="15169" PostId="10371" Score="1" Text="The optimal storage charge for lithium batteries is around 40%. I have no idea how you figure out when your camera battery is at 40%, though." CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:23:53.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15170" PostId="10372" Score="1" Text="This is both subjective and very specific to your situation. There's no right answer, except for for you." CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:26:59.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15171" PostId="10283" Text="I really hate Image Capture.  It's so slow when you have hundreds of pictures.  Shame really considering when I plug my iPhone into my Windows 7 machine I can browse the pictures really fast.  So you ditched iPhoto completely?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T11:28:10.600" UserId="4498" />
  <row Id="15172" PostId="6989" Text="+1 for &quot;The image is everything. Literally, nothing else matters, not the back story, not the context, not the accompanying paragraph of text.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:05:57.553" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="15173" PostId="10372" Text="@mattdm yah i know there is no right answer for this, but I am just asking for suggestions here from other people who probably know about lenses better than me and can help me make a choice." CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:10:05.600" UserId="1924" />
  <row Id="15174" PostId="10372" Score="1" Text="http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/" CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:14:09.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15175" PostId="9144" Text="telephoto compression is certainly NOT the same thing as cropping. The &quot;focal length multiplier&quot; from a smaller sensor IS cropping, but is something completely different (no matter what some marketeers and even some website authors who should know better want you to believe)." CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:17:57.730" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15176" PostId="10283" Text="iPhoto is in fact just as slow as Image Capture when you have a lot of images on your camera, because they seem to share the same architecture. If you open Image Capture, let it find all your images, then open iPhoto, you'll find that iPhoto will have already found them all as well! The best solution is to make secure backups every time you import a set of photos, then wipe them off the card, so there are only ever the minimum photos on the card. Image Capture is just simpler than iPhoto - straight from the camera to a folder, no Events or Faces or anything." CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:21:52.050" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15177" PostId="10283" Text="Oh, and transferring photos from your iPhone will always be quicker because they're relatively low quality JPEGs, not hoofing great DSLR RAW files." CreationDate="2011-03-30T12:24:51.407" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15179" PostId="2160" Score="1" Text="and for the long term backup, tapes and/or dvds stored in a remote controlled location (IronMountain offers such services, for example. Expensive of course)." CreationDate="2011-03-30T13:50:49.100" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15180" PostId="10380" Text="I believe that if you adjust the exposure you will get a flickering movie. The second one should be doable with a simple IF statement: IF exposure &gt; &lt;desired number&gt; then END. But as I don't know CHDK I can't help any further I'm afraid." CreationDate="2011-03-30T14:02:19.653" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15181" PostId="10380" Text="@ElendilTheTall: That's why I would like to adjust the exposure a maximum of say one step per five pictures—to avoid very sudden changes—but that would require calculating an average target exposure, but that is a bit above of my BASIC skill level." CreationDate="2011-03-30T14:41:53.630" UserId="4220" />
  <row Id="15182" PostId="10375" Text="Based on all over dissatisfaction I wouldn't recommend buying EF-S 55-250 lens. It's probably wiser to try and get something from Tamron that would have better quality but acceptable price." CreationDate="2011-03-30T14:46:32.097" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15183" PostId="10380" Text="What are you making a movie of?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T14:55:26.427" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15184" PostId="10380" Score="1" Text="[Here](http://u.tknet.nl/gaQ6W5)'s a few of my previous explorations. Anything that lends itself, basically. @ElendilTheTall" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:00:50.883" UserId="4220" />
  <row Id="15185" PostId="10380" Text="Hmmm. Well, I'd imagine for the sky shots any artificial tampering with the speed of transition in the light will look odd; you're probably better off just letting it look natural." CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:08:16.213" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15186" PostId="10341" Text="@ysap: Yeah, the in-camera histogram. The post-processor histogram should certainly be more accurate for the actual RAW image, as you stated." CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:31:56.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15187" PostId="10380" Text="I agree. In such cases the overexposure-protection should do. @ElendilTheTall" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:43:10.160" UserId="4220" />
  <row Id="15188" PostId="317" Text="@jrista - Interesting; i'm looking at a NAS solution myself. Amazing how quickly photos eat up storage. You do mean &quot;4 2Tb drives for a total of **8Tb**,&quot; right? Also, in most climates, the temperature fluctuations inside a car can't be good for the lifespan of your backups (even optical discs like BR). How do you protect against that?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:58:14.910" UserId="761" />
  <row Id="15189" PostId="10380" Text="In which case you could probably take the first image as a baseline from which to calculate an overexposure threshold: IF exposurevalue == baseline + 2 stops THEN end script." CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:05:27.690" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15190" PostId="10375" Text="@RobertKoritnik I own that lens personally and I've been pretty satisfied for the price. What Tamron lens are you comparing it to?" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:06:46.160" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15191" PostId="10375" Text="@ChrisFletcher: One of these maybe: 18-270, 70-200 or 70-300. The first one tends to be surprisingly good (I don't own it, but reviewers definitely praise it over the Canon 55-250) despite its 15x zoom level." CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:25:24.663" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15192" PostId="10375" Text="@RobertKoritnik: Ah, I have friends with the cheaper Tamron 70-300 and they aren't very complimentary but I've no experience with the others!" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:33:43.517" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15193" PostId="10375" Text="@ChrisFletcher: Well the last one was more or less the third option. First two are probably better ones. He should test those first see for himself." CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:51:04.033" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15194" PostId="10276" Text="Thanks for the detailed answer" CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:53:02.840" UserId="4014" />
  <row Id="15195" PostId="10384" Text="plus the larger size and weight of the 24-70 would for me count against it. I can no longer lug around 15+ kilos of camera gear, and at nearly 1kg (against 700 grams for the 35-70) it's heavy." CreationDate="2011-03-30T16:58:32.200" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15196" PostId="10371" Text="yeah, unless your camera reports it, it's pretty hard. I just go with the &quot;don't recharge it until you need it&quot; route." CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:12:31.953" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15197" PostId="10371" Text="I go the &quot;don't worry about it and just buy new batteries when they seem worn out&quot; route. :)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:31:26.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15198" PostId="10380" Text="The thing is, I can't for the life of me figure out how to do just that. :-) @ElendilTheTall" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:44:49.523" UserId="4220" />
  <row Id="15199" PostId="10386" Text="I also have some standard [reveal bulbs](http://www.meijer.com/s/ge-reveal-a19-clear-75w-light-bulb-12-packs-2-bulbs-ea/_/R-177791;jsessionid=8CF238B4EFA209C46ADB14A573015B0F.instance02?CAWELAID=775000963&amp;cmpid=goobase) so perhaps I should try them out now. I thought that the brighter, 1600 lumens of the CLF would be better. Thanks for the info!" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:47:15.903" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="15200" PostId="10390" Text="A horrible internet connection means I didn't get to see the other great answers before posting this. If @mattdm and/or @Lyman edit the CD/DVD test into their answers, I'll withdraw this altogether. In the meantime, this answer was late to the party, and shouldn't be upvoted unless you also upvote the complete answers that were there before it. " CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:55:13.403" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15201" PostId="10378" Score="1" Text="+1 for remote (in the Cloud) Amazon S3 storage. Having backups did not help one bit when one family member had all her computer kit stolen." CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:57:25.270" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15202" PostId="10390" Text="I just tried the CD trick and I noticed that a regular Incandescent  bulb has an even rainbow. I then tried a CFL and noticed that the colors were in groups - so I defused the light a bunch and finally got a much smoother rainbow (the colors all blend nicely) like the incandescent - however, I think the incandescent wins in this regard. [example image](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Simple_spectroscope.jpg)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T17:59:52.973" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="15203" PostId="317" Text="I actually no longer keep the discs in my car, I store them in a fireproof safe now. Back when I wrote this, the temperatures were moderately warm and pretty consistent, so it wasn't a concern. As winter came on, I did get worried about the cold ruining the discs." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:04:40.810" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15204" PostId="10390" Score="3" Text="Diffusion just smears the source so you see a number of overlapping rainbows, it doesn't fix the spectrum. What you'll see is a bunch of distinct colors butting into one another rather than a smooth transition between colors. I should have mentioned that it works best as a &quot;bare bulb&quot; test, or at least from a distance sufficient to make the light a &quot;point source&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:06:01.760" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15205" PostId="10183" Text="Yeah, steradians are an odd concept, but they bring a useful element into units. Sometimes knowing the geometry of something is essential to fully understanding it." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:07:26.767" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15206" PostId="10300" Score="1" Text="It used to be that the **dictionaries** and the *intelligent editors behind them* defined words...rather than the innately *dumb* public at large who often misunderstands and misuses words they have never looked up in a dictionary. Ah, how far we have fallen..." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:11:48.047" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15207" PostId="10390" Text="Awesome trick. like that image above shows, it's doing exactly what you are saying. I'll keep this in mind from now on." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:13:36.583" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="15208" PostId="10300" Text="You guys, I don't think this is quite a case of Humpty Dumpty and mallable defintions (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/12/12-h/12-h.htm#2HCH0006), prescriptive vs. descriptive dictionaries, or the evolution of language. This is a term used in art, both historically and recently. A bunch of people tagging pictures on Flickr might _expand_ the term through broader usage, but I'm not ready to throw out the more careful defintion yet." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:45:22.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15209" PostId="9194" Text="That's the closest one I've seen.  The one I recall had an LCD screen, and you could (painfully) decide what to transfer." CreationDate="2011-03-30T18:56:43.003" UserId="1216" />
  <row Id="15210" PostId="10390" Score="1" Text="@Stan: Or perhaps you should make the CD diffraction idea more prominent in your answer, and get credit where credit is due!" CreationDate="2011-03-30T19:03:42.500" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="15211" PostId="10380" Text="That's where you need a CHDK bod...there must be CHDK specific sites around, if one of SE's users can't help you." CreationDate="2011-03-30T19:59:10.687" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15213" PostId="10393" Text="No, that's 'Rotate Tall' in the Playback Menu. Essentially, Rotate Tall rotates images that have their orientation recorded by Auto Image Rotation. Simple eh? :)" CreationDate="2011-03-30T20:33:01.580" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15214" PostId="10394" Score="2" Text="These are fine questions but they're different enough that they might be better posted separately. " CreationDate="2011-03-30T21:00:15.157" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15215" PostId="10394" Text="Also: the first question is answered here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9240/why-do-compact-digital-cameras-not-have-the-aperture-range-of-dslrs" CreationDate="2011-03-30T21:03:37.713" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15216" PostId="10392" Score="2" Text="I'm curious why you _wouldn't_ want this there. It's so convenient, and you can always either ignore it or batch-rotate based on the tag. " CreationDate="2011-03-30T21:16:02.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15217" PostId="10378" Text="Nasty! That's exactly the kind of thing people don't consider much of the time when thinking about backups..." CreationDate="2011-03-30T22:04:55.640" UserId="4502" />
  <row Id="15218" PostId="10375" Text="@sfactor I just got back from a two week vacation with my new 15-85mm, where I took 1000+ photos. It's a very sharp and versatile lens ideal for outdoor day-time photography. I consider it a perfect vacation lens. But note that it is slow (more-so than I realized - expect to crank up ISO in even remotely dim situations) and not exactly a telephoto lens. I think it along with a prime lens and a cheap telephoto like the 55-250 would make a great set of lenses at a reasonable cost." CreationDate="2011-03-30T22:16:16.370" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="15220" PostId="10396" Score="1" Text="The histogram, in other words, shows you *what*, not *where*. You can use the histogram in conjunction with the highlight blinkies to warn you about the white point, but there's nothing built into the camera that can tell you whether you're losing or retaining *important* shadow detail -- there may be things you want sitting at or below the black point, or just barely discernible in Zone I or II, or you may need to retain something at the expense of letting a specular highlight block/clip. Spot metering helps where the histogram cannot." CreationDate="2011-03-30T22:28:16.877" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15221" PostId="10390" Text="I think there's plenty of cake even for answers that were late to the party. The CD diffraction idea is great, and I'd never heard of it before." CreationDate="2011-03-30T22:54:13.723" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15222" PostId="10390" Text="Also, needed to go look up fluorescent bulbs and how they work exactly. I always assumed that it was the phosphors responding differently to narrow bands of UV glow from the electrified gasses within the tube. That appears to be wrong. " CreationDate="2011-03-30T23:07:00.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15223" PostId="10394" Text="Actually, that probably really also answers your second question, leaving the third, about adjusting exposure." CreationDate="2011-03-30T23:11:19.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15224" PostId="10376" Score="2" Text="The point of having a fast extreme wide-angle lens is not to be able to shoot wide open (things never get out-of-focus enough at those focal lengths to look deliberate -- any &quot;bokeh&quot; just looks like a focus error). It's all about the viewfinder -- those damned crop-sensor cameras are seriously dark, and that's at high noon on a sunny day. f/2.8 makes framing a *lot* easier, especially at dawn and dusk, but the shooting aperture should probably be in the f/5.6-11 range almost all of the time." CreationDate="2011-03-30T23:15:10.803" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15225" PostId="10394" Text="And, the answer to the third question is actually here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4578/what-is-exposure-compensation, you just don't know it yet. What you're looking for is Exposure Compensation, and on your SX20, the control for it appears to be conveniently located as the middle button in the top right corner of the back of the camera. Also, check this out for ISO and avoiding noise: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6615/" CreationDate="2011-03-30T23:17:02.457" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15226" PostId="10392" Text="+1 to MattDM. Also, if you want this meta data out, then you may want other meta data out too. In that case, some meta data stripping tool might be better." CreationDate="2011-03-30T23:32:30.737" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="15227" PostId="10390" Score="2" Text="No, it's right -- it's just that mercury vapor alone won't generate enough UV frequencies to cause all of the various phosphors used to fluoresce at a wide-enough spectrum, so additional gases are used as well as additional fluorescing compounds. Neither will come close to doing the job by itself, but there's really no point in attaching an entire physics paper to responses that are supposed to be about photography; it serves no purpose except to satisfy the curiosity of people who are more interested in gadgets than photography itself." CreationDate="2011-03-30T23:33:03.133" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15229" PostId="10365" Text="Now I feel like asking &quot;What is the CIE 1931 Color Space&quot;, and answering it with &quot;See _here_...&quot; :)" CreationDate="2011-03-31T01:25:49.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15230" PostId="10365" Text="Anyway: 10-100 million distinct colors = 24-27 bits, of which 22 are hue and saturation. " CreationDate="2011-03-31T01:29:37.903" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15231" PostId="10267" Text="The main improvement I'd suggest to this answer is to expand the &quot;overloaded&quot; part of &quot;key&quot;; it's not clear that &quot;overloaded&quot; connects your first two paragraphs." CreationDate="2011-03-31T01:59:07.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15232" PostId="10365" Text="The sad thing about the RGB color model is it mixes chromaticity and luminosity. You can't simply change luminosity independent of chromaticity, you have to change chromaticity at the same time...they are intrinsically linked. That link inherently limits how much fineness we can extract from RGB until we reach higher bit depths beyond 8bpc...16bpc is pretty adequate, but still not ideal. A real bummer about a lot of vision testing is...its done with computers and computer screens, USING the RGB color model. I think that has limited our measurement of human vision in some ways." CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:04:35.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15233" PostId="10396" Text="I think you may be using the histogram incorrectly. There isn't a &quot;correct&quot; histogram...it is simply information, nothing else. The histogram you posted, which I assume is of the photo you posted, would be exactly the histogram I look for in such a photo. I would try to make sure that there were NOT any spikes at the highlight end, which would indicate I've blown out the few visible tones...but outside of that...I think the histogram you have quite adequately describes your scene." CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:08:32.370" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15234" PostId="10300" Text="I think, however, you read more into your first paragraph than is there such as &quot;usually have pure or nearly pure white backgrounds&quot; does *not* mean always and &quot;precludes extremely dark shadows&quot; does *not* mean it precludes dark backgrounds. In any case, we're going to agree to disagree." CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:08:47.617" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15236" PostId="10396" Text="I think a nice compliment to in-camera histograms would be a Live View mode that divided the scene into a configurable grid, averaged the pixels in each cell, and assigned a &quot;zone system&quot; number to each one. Perhaps it could indicate when there are cells well below or well above minimum and maximum. Unlike a histogram, this would let you see the luminance of your scene in two dimensions, rather than one. " CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:11:14.320" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15240" PostId="10370" Score="2" Text="Bear in mind that the Nikon DX format (APS-C) is actually a little larger than the Canon APS-C format. Not a huge difference, but it's there. Nevertheless, I've always thought Nikon's utility is pretty handy and good relative comparison." CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:23:45.800" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15242" PostId="10263" Text="Matt, I appreciate your answer, but I think that it's incorrect to say that _it doesn't mean much to describe an image as being &quot;high key&quot;_; I think that it clearly does, but it's a term coming from a different direction than the lighting-related terminology that you're familiar with. I don't doubt that these are somewhat mixed together in modern usage. Even the overexposed image-search results are closer to the definition the two-dimensional arts than the lighting style one." CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:31:09.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15243" PostId="10263" Text="It's also helpful to consider that, while high-key lighting may tend to produce high-key images, the low-key _lighting style_ has very different usage and doesn't result in a low-key _image_." CreationDate="2011-03-31T02:32:59.323" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15251" PostId="10393" Text="Ah, nice. I retract my comment." CreationDate="2011-03-31T03:20:09.933" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15253" PostId="10398" Text="'a mental vocabulary for dividing the scene', yes I like your description and how you describe that it can be applied to the test LCD image and later. Your point about 'forethought and planning' is important too." CreationDate="2011-03-31T05:42:36.127" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15254" PostId="10397" Text="I can see that it would be valuable in high dynamic range situations." CreationDate="2011-03-31T05:43:24.973" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15255" PostId="10396" Text="'get it right the first time', yes I can see that can be a big advantage." CreationDate="2011-03-31T05:44:31.867" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15256" PostId="4041" Score="1" Text="That is a great photo" CreationDate="2011-03-31T05:57:31.393" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15257" PostId="9517" Text="That is true, and relevant when comparing reach across different camera systems (compact vs DSLR etc) so I've edited my post slightly.  The main point though is that the zoom factor spec is not really relevant when you can change lenses. " CreationDate="2011-03-31T06:04:41.577" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15258" PostId="10401" Score="1" Text="Very similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/642/how-can-i-reverse-mount-a-canon-f-1-4-50-mm-for-macro-photography" CreationDate="2011-03-31T07:07:10.157" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="15259" PostId="9500" Text="one more reason to buy that Bigma 50-500 :)" CreationDate="2011-03-31T08:17:23.823" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15260" PostId="7124" Text="if you have a very heavy lens, you want a lens collar with it as the tripod mount is going to be unstable well before the point where the lens gets too heavy for the flange to take the weight." CreationDate="2011-03-31T08:20:59.063" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15261" PostId="7126" Text="Actually, whether you can hold that combination by the body alone would depend on the weight distribution, not the weight. If it's a short, fat, lens weighing that much there's no problem holding it by the body as the weight is centered close to the point you're holding it. If it's a long tele with a massive front element, you're in trouble with even lightweight lenses." CreationDate="2011-03-31T08:22:51.620" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15262" PostId="9500" Text="Bigma? I think what you really mean is this one: http://www.sigmaphoto.com/shop/300-800mm-f56-ex-dg-apo-hsm-sigma" CreationDate="2011-03-31T09:39:24.143" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="15263" PostId="10402" Score="1" Text="But it is only useful if the lens aperture can be set manually, i.e. has an aperture ring. As far as I can see, the 18-55 has no aperture ring (I don't own a Canon) and this may also be true for Canon 50mm f1.8." CreationDate="2011-03-31T10:16:19.760" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15264" PostId="10406" Score="1" Text="It's not just at macro distances - I've shot full length portraits with a 50 f/1.4 where the recompose was enough to cause significant focus errors! " CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:01:34.890" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15265" PostId="10410" Text="It's only a Canon T1i :)" CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:12:04.530" UserId="4435" />
  <row Id="15266" PostId="10263" Text="@mattdm I wasn't aware of the other meaning for the term, I've tried to edit my answer to reflect this. " CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:13:52.003" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15267" PostId="7126" Text="@jwenting - I accept your comment, technically. However, practically, even a short 1Kg lens should get pretty big, so I am pretty sure that for any lens of this kind (do you have any example?) the grip will be by the lens and not by the body. And, even if it is not so, the *correct* way of holding a camera for maximum stability involves holding the lens and resting the body (if possible) on your palm." CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:15:07.617" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15268" PostId="10390" Text="This is not a race. Rather, a journey." CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:20:02.950" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15269" PostId="10263" Text="Thanks; I'm going to do the same to mine in the other direction." CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:36:35.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15270" PostId="10402" Text="Hey, i didn't say if it was useful or not: he asked if he needed an adaptor to reverse mount his lens, I said yes. In any case, you still have some control over aperture as reversing the lens allows access to the lens' aperture lever. It's not perfect, but you're reversing a lens - it's a jury-rigged macro solution at best." CreationDate="2011-03-31T11:45:19.260" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15271" PostId="7126" Text="The Nikon 14-24 f/2.8 and 24-70 f2/8 come to mind as a rather short lens (13cm, 5&quot;) that weigh about a kilo. I've a Tokina 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 that's in the same weight/size range. Really sweet lens, but weighs a ton. The 14mm f/2.8 Nikkor is also rather heavy for its size (almost 700 grams for and 86mm long lens)." CreationDate="2011-03-31T12:24:02.050" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15272" PostId="4629" Score="1" Text="+1 for &quot;shoot from their eye level&quot; alone" CreationDate="2011-03-31T12:54:32.447" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15273" PostId="510" Text="Depending on how long your project will last, you might want to consider renting a sealed pro body and a sealed pro lens. You certainly wouldn't want someone to beat you with them, though." CreationDate="2011-03-31T13:59:24.460" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15274" PostId="10300" Score="1" Text="&quot;Not surprisingly, since we've inherited a lot of things from painting, it's used there too, or at least was.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;Doing a quick Google search using the terms &quot;high-key painting&quot; (http://www.google.com/search?q=high+key+painting) demonstrates the term is still used in painting today to describe using colors mixed with lots of white (i.e. pastels or lighter tones).  Both the historical usage and the currant usage of the term in photography make a strong case the terminology was inherited from the art world." CreationDate="2011-03-31T15:33:52.777" UserId="2214" />
  <row Id="15275" PostId="10412" Score="1" Text="Could this be linguistic too? Some languages may not have separate words for purple, violet and mauve. In which case it would be dark purple and light purple." CreationDate="2011-03-31T16:30:07.993" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15276" PostId="10402" Score="1" Text="@labnut - saying &quot;it is only useful&quot; is a too strong statement. I had some nice shots with a wide open reversed kit lens. It really depends on your subject." CreationDate="2011-03-31T16:49:27.733" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15277" PostId="10403" Text="there is a lens coupling filter ring that lets you mount a reversed lens on top of a normally mounted lens. It is cheap an better than taping (alignment, etc.)." CreationDate="2011-03-31T16:51:11.383" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15278" PostId="10394" Text="Thanks for your answers Matt! So, the answer to 1q would be there is an aperture but it's almost useless. Answer to 2q is that is a limitation of the camera. Answer to 3q is that exposure depends on the eye of the photographer and you have to rely on the histogram. Are these correct?" CreationDate="2011-03-31T17:05:35.260" UserId="1595" />
  <row Id="15279" PostId="10412" Text="Maybe. The conflation of cyan and blue is certainly interesting in that way, too. (But those are definitely different _hues_, not changes in value, like this.)" CreationDate="2011-03-31T17:06:26.120" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15280" PostId="10413" Text="Do you mean as rules of thumb for a human, or as things for a computer program to evaluate?" CreationDate="2011-03-31T17:46:09.993" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15281" PostId="10413" Text="As some guidelines for human eyes and brain!" CreationDate="2011-03-31T17:51:33.000" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="15282" PostId="10370" Text="Nikon's APS-C (DX) has 1.5x factor, Canon's is 1.6x. It's different but almost unnoticeable " CreationDate="2011-03-31T17:54:23.973" UserId="938" />
  <row Id="15283" PostId="10414" Text="I think &quot;image quality&quot; means something different to how good a photo is, specifically how free the image is from defects such as blur, noise, low contrast, chromatic aberrations. These are still subjective, but easier to quantify than composition, etc." CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:08:41.267" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15284" PostId="10414" Score="1" Text="We also have to remember that sometimes &quot;defects&quot; such as blur, noise, etc. can be used artistically to make an image better.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:13:35.493" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="15285" PostId="10412" Score="2" Text="relevant: http://www.thedoghousediaries.com/?p=1406" CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:15:50.110" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15286" PostId="10393" Text="Ok, now I found it. The German translation was somehow unexpected :-) Mmmh, I think Nikon should really restructure the menu points. There are 3 different points where you define how pictures are taken. Doesn't make a lot of sense." CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:38:25.450" UserId="4537" />
  <row Id="15287" PostId="10392" Text="It's a matter of the workflow. My personal collection of digital images goes back till the early 2000th and at that time I had no camera capable of auto rotation. For me, it is better to have all images in the same &quot;format&quot;." CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:39:54.437" UserId="4537" />
  <row Id="15288" PostId="10393" Text="Indeed, evidently they need an injection of Teutonic efficiency! :)" CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:47:57.703" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15289" PostId="317" Text="@jrista - ah, thanks for the clarification. Well, actually, after i commented, i saw your comment on a related question. The temps where i'm at seem to vary more dramatically, so the car-safe idea raised my eyebrows a bit. =)" CreationDate="2011-03-31T19:35:06.377" UserId="761" />
  <row Id="15290" PostId="10412" Score="1" Text="There is a similar question here: http://english.stackexchange.com/questions/5799/yellow-versus-orange " CreationDate="2011-03-31T19:50:51.080" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="15291" PostId="10419" Score="1" Text="There is indeed a &quot;light violet&quot; occuring naturally -- cobalt arsenide, as Cobalt Violet Light, is familiar to oil painters as one of those unbelievably expensive pigments that can't really be replaced by mixing. Try as you might to arrive at the same tone using either thing glazes or mixing with white, you can never get quite the same optical properties. Last time I bought it about twenty-five years ago, it was over $150 for a two-ounce tube. I wasted more on the pallette than I ever used in a painting, but used pure and strategically, it was irreplaceable." CreationDate="2011-03-31T20:45:53.190" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15292" PostId="10419" Text="I guess my wording doesn't portray what I was trying to say. Its a linguistic distinction, rather than a color distinction. &quot;Light Violet&quot; or &quot;Pink&quot;, regardless of what word we use, its still along the same hue axis. " CreationDate="2011-03-31T20:53:29.567" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15293" PostId="10416" Text="I'd give you +2 for the content, but then I'd have to take one off for linking to that awful, exasperated &quot;why doesn't the camera know what I mean&quot; rant, so you only get one." CreationDate="2011-03-31T20:56:25.090" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15294" PostId="10419" Text="I know what you mean *exactly*, and that's why CVL is *so* worth the money when you use it right -- the mind tries to perceive it as a muted, pinky tone, but it just can't do it. Well, not until a couple of decades down the road when the binding oils yellow to the point that it's just another light purply blob, anyway. In any case, it's a unique phenomenon (at least among permanent pigments/dyes) and it does sort of beggar description -- you wind up sounding like an idiot trying to explain it to someone who's never seen it themselves." CreationDate="2011-03-31T21:05:56.737" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15295" PostId="10367" Text="I remember that, going back to the '70s. Mount Rushmore was what they used then, starting with a circular fisheye that sort of let you know you were in a park of some sort with a bit of a hill at the end of a path, and ending with the 1600mm f/16 reflex lens looking at a part of Teddy Roosevelt's eyeglass frame. It really put things in perspective." CreationDate="2011-03-31T21:14:27.920" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15296" PostId="2850" Text="how are you accomplishing the fusion? are u using the photomatix 'fusion' options?" CreationDate="2011-03-31T21:33:44.213" UserId="2998" />
  <row Id="15297" PostId="10424" Score="1" Text="Can you expand a little bit on what you'd like to do with it, and what kind of features the program should have? Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:39:00.827" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15298" PostId="8831" Text="The key, it seems to me, would be in getting the **film base plus fog** density right, then you could let the extreme shadows go white (Zone 0) in the transparency print. (Or you could use paper if you want to try to emulate the Fox Talbot process for artistic effect -- the paper grain can be an interesting effect.) I'd expect that a separate sheet of unexposed, developed film would be exactly the ticket here, and you can probably find a print house that does traditional photoliths that would be willing to supply you with one for less than the price of buying a box of film and going DIY." CreationDate="2011-03-31T22:49:28.483" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15299" PostId="10219" Text="@martin.malek — I've edited the title. Does that accurately reflect what you're looking for?" CreationDate="2011-03-31T23:03:12.127" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15300" PostId="10426" Text="Sorry about the repeated edits -- I'm not trying to &quot;bump&quot; this, but it seems I can't spell anything right today (and my misspellings all result in real words, so there's no funky underlining to warn me)." CreationDate="2011-03-31T23:29:35.593" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15301" PostId="7126" Text="@jwenting - ... and ... do you hold it by the body or by the lens??" CreationDate="2011-03-31T23:36:59.670" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15302" PostId="10409" Text="I tried the decoupling technique for some time, but fell back to the normal operation. I guess old habits are hard to change. I wonder, though, why do you find it more useful, except if there is usually a long lag between you focusing and taking the shot?" CreationDate="2011-03-31T23:44:39.240" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15303" PostId="10369" Text="I don't know of any such thing, I was hoping someone else did. Mail in two dead batteries and get $10 off the purchase of a new one, something like that. Demand for lithium has surged, and batteries are the number-one use for it now; it wouldn't be surprising to hear there was some effort to recycle it." CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:08:10.563" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="15304" PostId="2079" Text="@chuqui - beautiful Yosemite series. Indeed, it is refreshing indeed a not exaggerated performance of HDR!" CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:09:10.300" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15305" PostId="10412" Text="Wow! I was just guessing but now that I see all the discussion revolving around languages... it is far more than I expected. Just a lucky guess though ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:28:24.880" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15306" PostId="2850" Text="I actually just use the free command line &quot;Enfuse&quot; tool myself. There are some GUI wrappers for it, and I've worked a little bit on my own wrapper. For the most part, default settings work well enough, although when it comes time to tweak those settings, it can be a little tedious." CreationDate="2011-04-01T01:26:27.880" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15307" PostId="10426" Text="To add to this, you can lower the contrast/saturation/clarity/etc of the background to draw the eyes to the eyes.  Also, no need to apologize about edits. " CreationDate="2011-04-01T01:31:58.217" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="15308" PostId="10412" Text="You might find this interesting: http://www.worldwidewords.org/articles/colour.htm" CreationDate="2011-04-01T02:26:04.930" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15309" PostId="10412" Score="1" Text="I'm seeing a lot of mixup between [purple and violet](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purple#Purple_versus_violet) in this question and its answers." CreationDate="2011-04-01T03:13:00.083" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15310" PostId="6672" Text="Considering this, it makes sense for camera to signal the flash when exposure starts and how long is shutter going to be open - only the flash knows, how long the burst is expected to take and therefore when it has to start." CreationDate="2011-04-01T04:09:21.990" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15311" PostId="6672" Text="@Imre: A pack-and-head system has no way of knowing how long the burst is going to last -- the same power on the same number of connectors at the pack may be firing through any number of tubes of any of several designs (two, three or four electrodes, straight, U- or Ω-shaped tubes that may be short and fat or thin and long, etc.). Even some monolights have interchangeable tube types for various lighting requirements. Only the dedicated flashes that do a metered preflash can really talk to the camera and get a time check." CreationDate="2011-04-01T04:58:54.527" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15312" PostId="10362" Score="1" Text="And at those magnifications, you don't want to be using the focus ring on the lens (or the autofocus, even if you could) to achieve focus, since that changes the magnification factor as well. Setting the lens for the size you want, then using a geared macro focus rail to move the camera is the best solution, but other, less well-controlled methods of moving the camera (a horizontal column or wheels on a tripod, or -- if you like to run with scissors, swaying your body to work hand-held with a flash) will also work." CreationDate="2011-04-01T05:17:39.197" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15313" PostId="10405" Text="I'd say this is more a matter of personal choice most often. Sometimes you have to focus manually, or risk going nuts, simply because there is too much clutter in the image, throwing off the autofocus mechanism. Shooting macro images used to make me nuts that way. Remember, autofocus is a convenience, but you're the boss of the camera and you can tell it what to do." CreationDate="2011-04-01T05:30:55.447" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="15314" PostId="10409" Text="Sports Illustrated recommends their photographers split the functions and even have settings on siphoto.com to that point. Part of the advantage is it allows autofocus separately from locking the exposure settings, giving you greater control. When shooting action sports I found it convenient because I could track the action, I'd see someone or something would get in the way, and, instead of having the camera try to adjust its focus to the intervening object, I'd temporarily release focus, then push it again when clear. Splitting also works nicely for nature/landscape/macro work too." CreationDate="2011-04-01T05:36:53.960" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="15315" PostId="10431" Text="I like it, the 'blah' experience is the opposite of the 'aha' experience." CreationDate="2011-04-01T05:42:37.993" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15316" PostId="10432" Text="Yes, and when we vote up we are applying our subjective judgment, which I have just done." CreationDate="2011-04-01T05:45:32.063" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15317" PostId="8896" Text="You have summed it up well, the best reply by far." CreationDate="2011-04-01T05:47:26.587" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15318" PostId="10413" Text="I think this is a really worthwhile question. Every time we see a photo we make a judgment and that judgment informs the way we take our next photo. By understanding how we make that judgment we understand photography." CreationDate="2011-04-01T06:01:46.183" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15319" PostId="10369" Text="&quot;There is currently little economic need to recycle lithium-ion batteries. Most batteries contain only small amounts of lithium carbonate as a percentage of weight and the material is relatively inexpensive compared to most other metals.&quot; — http://www.technologyreview.com/energy/23215/?a=f" CreationDate="2011-04-01T06:15:25.860" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15320" PostId="10250" Text="I think this has trouble fitting the 7d which is of similar size afaik " CreationDate="2011-04-01T07:38:50.347" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="15321" PostId="10424" Score="1" Text="I'd like to create collages from a set of photos collated by hand. I'm interested in what the software can do rather than having a pre-set idea of what the output should look like." CreationDate="2011-04-01T08:02:52.097" UserId="4546" />
  <row Id="15322" PostId="3992" Text="ultimate question: how much do these advantages worth? do they worth $1300 (difference btw 5d markII and 50d)?" CreationDate="2011-04-01T08:22:37.903" UserId="24" />
  <row Id="15323" PostId="3992" Text="@spinodal it doesn't have to be expensive to get into FF, you can pick up a 5D mkI for $700, and you could save money on lenses too. If you wanted a wide prime you could pick up the EF 20mm f/2.8 for $539 whereas with a crop body you'd have to get the EF 14mm f/2.8L which wouldn't give as wide a field of view and cost you an extra $1700! Yeah the build quality of that lens is better but still. The same is true of the Canon 35mm f/1.4 and 50mm f/1.4" CreationDate="2011-04-01T09:01:54.313" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15324" PostId="9133" Text="This thread has a few useful links to Nikon (http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/simulator/) &amp; Tamron (http://www.tamron.eu/en/lenses/focal-length-comparison.html) visualization tools - http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/10366/1977" CreationDate="2011-04-01T09:11:31.827" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="15325" PostId="9133" Text="And here's one for Canon - http://www.usa.canon.com/app/html/EFLenses101/focal_length.html" CreationDate="2011-04-01T09:13:40.210" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="15326" PostId="10409" Text="ysap: I heard about it on some podcast and it just felt right after trying it. I'm raised on MF (Olympus OM was my first SLR) so focusing with one motion and tripping the shutter with another just feels right. When shooting portraits I usually try to get focus and then recompose or wait for the expression I want." CreationDate="2011-04-01T09:29:33.290" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="15327" PostId="9133" Text="And another generic one - http://lens-reviews.com/Technical-Talk/Technical-Talk/lens-field-of-view-visualisation-tool.html that covers a variety of crop factors, but only for the range 17-300mm" CreationDate="2011-04-01T09:31:10.333" UserId="1977" />
  <row Id="15330" PostId="10431" Text="+1 for tilting at windmills. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T11:12:29.123" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15331" PostId="10413" Text="I'm tempted to offer as an answer -- go read Robert M. Pirsig's &quot;Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values&quot; It is possible to disagree with what is presented in the book, but it is the shortest answer I can think of to the question :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T12:29:00.333" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="15332" PostId="10431" Text="@mattdm - LOL, I had too... I just couldn't let it go by! ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T13:04:15.890" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15333" PostId="10412" Text="@Evan Krall: by the technical definition there, we _can't_ have violet with our RGB-based cameras. So approximating it with purple will have to do. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T13:19:22.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15334" PostId="10419" Text="On secondary colors — the use of primary and secondary in the quote  is, I think, conceptual, not scientific. Brown isn't a secondary color in that sense, but think what you'd get in a box of 12 crayons." CreationDate="2011-04-01T13:21:33.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15336" PostId="10424" Text="@tenpn, I've moved your comment into the question body to make it more obvious.  You can edit it too if you want to expand further etc.  " CreationDate="2011-04-01T14:38:00.470" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="15337" PostId="10437" Score="1" Text="Lightroom's feature is not usually called a collage as the photos are non-intersecting and placed at right angles. This is more like a light-table or tear-sheet." CreationDate="2011-04-01T14:47:21.637" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15338" PostId="10373" Text="I agree with @ElendilTheTail.  Her face is quite dark, and completely evenly lit.  Side-lighting would cause shadows around her eyes and nose, which are absent.  It seems pretty clear to me that this is lit by the sun which is behind the subject to camera right.  I think the sun is fairly high, because of the highlight all along the upper surface of her left (camera right) arm.  " CreationDate="2011-04-01T14:51:21.493" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="15339" PostId="10424" Text="@tenpn: Okay, fair enough, but can you at least describe a little bit what you're after? Do you want something produced automatically, or do you want a tool to aid manual design work? Particularly in the second case, this might do better over at http://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:03:37.260" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15340" PostId="10415" Text="Yes, I think that the author ignores the impact of linguistics and culture on colour-naming. See for example the word &quot;pink&quot; ... which is &quot;pink&quot; (german) == &quot;hot pink&quot; (english) == &quot;cuisse de nymphe émue&quot; (french) if you want to be exact. If not you'll get a lot of different shades using the common translations &quot;pink&quot; (german) == &quot;pink&quot; (english ~ less bright) == &quot;fuchsia&quot; (french ~ more like magenta)." CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:13:08.510" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="15341" PostId="10429" Text="Also, if you're indoors, use a large soft box to get a good catchlight, like I did with this photo. I also boosted the exposure and saturation of the eyes using the Adjustment Brush.&#xA;&#xA;http://www.flickr.com/photos/blakeperdue/5514422988/" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:22:03.150" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="15342" PostId="10439" Score="3" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6151/what-is-the-shutter-speed-needed-to-stop-motion, a more general &quot;what speed to stop motion&quot; question." CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:36:23.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15343" PostId="10421" Text="This is true but irrelevant." CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:41:20.457" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15344" PostId="10417" Text="So, I guess, that's not an answer, that's the question." CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:42:28.210" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15345" PostId="10415" Text="Okay, yeah, this steers me to a helpful clarification. Yes, i think there's a cultural/developmental/language thing. The question is: what is special about these particular colors in regards to brightness and darkness? The suggestion that it's individual to each color (bad fruit, in your example) is one possibility, but since these are opposed colors, I can't help but think that there's something more to it than that." CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:49:24.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15346" PostId="10441" Text="Hmmm. How would you relate this to luminosity/brightness?" CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:12:02.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15347" PostId="10422" Text="Thanks for the pointer to opponent process theory. I think I may have to go read Goethe's Theory of Colors (http://books.google.com/books?id=qDIHAAAAQAAJ in a kind-of-old translation), which Freeman also references." CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:17:53.917" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15348" PostId="10424" Text="Ok, I've tried to expand the answer but I really don't have much of a pre-set idea of what the tool should do." CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:27:10.113" UserId="4546" />
  <row Id="15349" PostId="10424" Text="(I'd imagine this is a good candidate for a community wiki, too)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:27:52.360" UserId="4546" />
  <row Id="15350" PostId="10444" Score="4" Text="Excellent answer!" CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:33:37.920" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15351" PostId="10441" Text="@mattdm: The second plot has about 50% luminosity, maybe a bit less. Thats the Z axis, which in the case of the Lab color plot, is pointed strait at you out of the screen." CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:39:55.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15352" PostId="10419" Text="@mattdm: Thats what I was trying to get at. Color can become a very complex thing when you involve the non-deterministic nature of human thought and organization. Brown is indeed a secondary color from an interior design perspective, and also from a graphic design perspective. Its often a muted highlight color or a base color upon which brighter or more vibrant highlight colors are placed. Thats why this really boils down to language and culture, more than science, and thoroughly demonstrates the complexity of color." CreationDate="2011-04-01T16:44:07.120" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15353" PostId="10445" Text="+1 for contributing to the campaign to add more good answers to old questions. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T17:13:33.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15354" PostId="10443" Score="1" Text="The lossy JPG format we're all familiar with is apparently quite different from the confusingly named &quot;Lossless JPEG&quot; scheme used in these raw files." CreationDate="2011-04-01T17:38:28.917" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="15355" PostId="10439" Text="I would change your tactic regarding shutter speed and aperture. You want your shutter to be selectable, as that changes **how** you capture the action. You want your aperture to be as wide as possible, to get as much light as you can. I would let your ISO vary automatically, to ensure you get a useful exposure for the shutter you set. To do this, you would need to set ISO to &quot;Auto&quot; and use the M (manual) camera mode to set your aperture wide, and choose your shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-04-01T17:42:49.253" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15356" PostId="10434" Text="I compared the angles with Nikon's tool mentioned by @Genius; it seems that Canon's comparison is based on full frame." CreationDate="2011-04-01T17:51:14.313" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15357" PostId="10370" Text="Canon also has 1.3x crop sensors used in 1D." CreationDate="2011-04-01T17:54:36.183" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15358" PostId="10447" Text="FWIW, I Googled &quot;photographic lighting simulator&quot; and didn't come up with much. If there's a better term or search string for what I want, please let me know." CreationDate="2011-04-01T18:19:01.550" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="15359" PostId="10446" Text="Maybe I'm being dense, but I'm unclear on what you mean by flash sync in this context. Any hotshoe flash should fire in sync with the shutter in any non-automatic mode. That's what the hotshoe contacts do." CreationDate="2011-04-01T18:31:51.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15360" PostId="10448" Score="2" Text="Blender is very powerful, but its user interface is optimized for heavy users, not made for a simple learning curve. So while it might be easy to use for power users of the software, it's definitely not easy to pick up." CreationDate="2011-04-01T18:34:06.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15361" PostId="9692" Text="The only other thing I could think of would be if the pixel mapping doesn't retest previous &quot;bad&quot;, and manufacturers might be worried about false positives." CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:00:21.510" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15362" PostId="4989" Text="You mean D3100,  not D31000?" CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:07:16.870" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15363" PostId="9277" Text="In some ways related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10104/" CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:21:32.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15364" PostId="9277" Text="And as with that question, check out this very interesting article from a reporter in Egypt: http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/02/08/what-not-to-bring-to-tahrir-square/" CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:22:06.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15365" PostId="10417" Text="I'd also say that pink is light red, but light violet is magenta..." CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:22:40.753" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15366" PostId="10365" Text="@jrista: how does Bezold–Brücke shift related to that?" CreationDate="2011-04-01T19:41:14.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15367" PostId="10443" Score="1" Text="@Lyman: Yes, it is. It's also used in DNG for example, se more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lossless_JPEG" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:16:46.457" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15368" PostId="4029" Text="There's some questions on the site covering the issue of circular-vs-linear: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1368/ and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9488/ " CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:24:31.380" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15369" PostId="1514" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10079/can-a-smaller-sensors-crop-factor-be-used-to-calculate-the-exact-increase-in-d/10121#10121" CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:34:52.713" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15370" PostId="1862" Text="This didn't get much response. That's partly because it's about a specific piece of niche gear. But also, it's not phrased as a question, but rather as a discussion...." CreationDate="2011-04-01T20:36:38.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15371" PostId="10446" Text="Maybe I am doing something wrong, but if i have the Speedlight on the camera, and take the photo in AV mode, the end result is not properly exposed.  If I switch the camera to Automatic mode, it is fine.  I'm not sure what I'mdoing wrong...and where to get started to fix it..." CreationDate="2011-04-01T21:04:31.440" UserId="4560" />
  <row Id="15372" PostId="10301" Score="1" Text="Sadly they stop at 70 inches... Their products do look nice and very polished." CreationDate="2011-04-01T21:19:14.240" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15373" PostId="10444" Text="Awesome answer, thanks" CreationDate="2011-04-01T21:23:09.430" UserId="4559" />
  <row Id="15374" PostId="10439" Score="1" Text="@jrista - The problem with my (cheap) camera is that setting it to M and ISO to auto actually fixes the ISO to 400. But setting shutter priority mode will have the desired effect (wide open aperture, and automatically adjusted ISO)" CreationDate="2011-04-01T21:30:19.843" UserId="4559" />
  <row Id="15375" PostId="10459" Text="+1 but you could have summed up as 6!" CreationDate="2011-04-02T00:28:28.793" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15376" PostId="10459" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - The kernel of your answer always comes in the last sentence or two. Maybe a little bold highlighting or people who skim for the short version?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T00:32:20.570" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15377" PostId="10459" Score="7" Text="But the site doesn't take one-character answers. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-02T00:45:00.453" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15378" PostId="10446" Score="1" Text="Canon flash is a bit convoluted. Exactly how the flash behaves varies by camera mode. Unless I misremember, in AV mode the flash will automatically, always, try to behave as a fill flash; the photo will be pretty correcly exposed per the light-meter without flash and then the flash will try to fill out the foreground onlyh. If this means a three-second shutter speed then so be it. I prefer to use M mode when flashing, then the flash will be the main light and I have explicit control of the natural-light exposure." CreationDate="2011-04-02T01:09:45.457" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15379" PostId="10446" Score="1" Text="Oh, and &quot;right exposure&quot; with a Canon flash means ETTL. By definition, pretty much. I can't rememeber if the 580 series have their own independent light-sensor on the front, as Nikon has had for a couple of decades now, but if so they are the first Canon ones to have it." CreationDate="2011-04-02T01:13:55.063" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15380" PostId="10459" Score="3" Text="You forgot to explain the law of stackability failure ;) Two 3-stop ND filters = 6-stops, but three 3-stop filters equals 9-stops in the center and 10-stops along the edges due to vignetting." CreationDate="2011-04-02T01:35:05.730" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15381" PostId="10459" Text="Excellent! To quote Mr. Burns." CreationDate="2011-04-02T01:35:05.940" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15382" PostId="10301" Text="Aw! Bummer!!!!!" CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:04:21.640" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="15383" PostId="4041" Text="@labnut - Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:05:09.963" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15384" PostId="10365" Text="I believe Bezold–Brücke is based only on extrafoveal perceptual tests, or tests that involve the outer 10° color sensitive spot, but ignoring (or under-weighting) the 2° foveal spot (which has more red and green cones). The greater concentration of blue cones in the extrafoveal area could account for the blue/yellow weighted shift. I don't know that much about their studies, though, so I can't say anything definitively." CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:06:37.270" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15385" PostId="10446" Text="@Staale S: You might want to turn those comments into an answer, as it seems to be enough useful information to be an answer rather than a couple comments." CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:21:52.580" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15386" PostId="10266" Text="Plaque Mounting is promising. I found several places that go to 8' wide and they either accept prints or do their own on photographic paper of various types. No such luck with Art Block Mounting. I'll report back when I get the first results. Given pricing though, I'm starting smaller to see the quality and finished product." CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:32:26.737" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15387" PostId="10273" Text="This seems like a good idea, I'll get a local company to print one of my relatively smaller panoramas and report back the results." CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:33:59.310" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15388" PostId="10439" Score="1" Text="@Pete - Most cameras work that way. Auto ISO is usually disabled and replaced by a fixed value when in M mode. This makes manually controlling exposure more predictable and consistent when using Bulb mode. Some more expensive cameras do not even have an Auto ISO option in ANY mode. On high-end Pentax DSLRs, there is a TAv mode which is essentially *Manual with forced Auto ISO*." CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:49:12.457" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15389" PostId="10266" Text="Art block mounting is just a variation on a theme. You still mount the print to MDF, but the border is usually higher quality wood with nice grain, maybe 1/2&quot; thick possibly less, mounted to the sides of the MDF. Sometimes the wood is painted, but the general idea is to get the nice wood grain. Art block mounts are usually deeper than plaque mounts...usually an inch or two, where as plaque mounts are pretty thin." CreationDate="2011-04-02T05:05:29.310" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15390" PostId="10273" Text="Any results yet? I'm curious to know what the final quality is like." CreationDate="2011-04-02T05:06:58.153" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15391" PostId="10462" Text="I voted to close this question because &quot;it is subjective and potentially argumentative It's impossible to objectively answer this question; questions of this type are too open ended and usually lead to confrontation and argument.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-02T05:26:03.993" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="15392" PostId="10444" Text="Short addition: 1/focal-length is valid for full frame cameras, so for APS-C it is 1.6/focal-length..." CreationDate="2011-04-02T05:41:27.820" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15394" PostId="10462" Text="In asking this question in this way, I was looking for answers like @ieue's, i.e., advice that leads to best-practices for applying this particular technique with an emphasis on how not to 'over do it.' As to leading to confrontation and argument, I suppose that's possible since tone is hard to convey in text, but I was trusting in the good will of the community here to keep things positive." CreationDate="2011-04-02T06:00:59.553" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15395" PostId="10464" Text="Thanks! Your advice helps me to pin down the features that differentiate between good and bad use of the effect, and it gives me some insight into what better photographers than I know to look for when they edit or post-process an image." CreationDate="2011-04-02T06:09:01.277" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15396" PostId="10462" Score="4" Text="As a further note, I was just reading an answer mattdm posted http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/942/color-theory-or-linguistics/943#943 in response to a meta question on appropriate subject matter for Photo SE. This question may or may not be a good example, but aren't all questions that stray away from the technical side of photography going to involve a certain amount of open-endedness?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T06:38:05.353" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15397" PostId="8011" Text="@shizam, @jon2512chua, the slrgear.com tests show that 24-70 lens is very sharp at f2.8. It softens slightly at 70mm but recovers its sharpness at F4.0(70mm). See this page at slrgear.com: http://www.slrgear.com/reviews/zproducts/canon24-70f28/tloader.htm" CreationDate="2011-04-02T06:41:26.713" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15398" PostId="10462" Score="1" Text="Possibly. Or possibly I'm wrong (and that's OK with me if I am- that's why the community is the final arbiter of what is an appropriate question, not the individual). :-) Perhaps if you rephrased the &quot;crime against good taste&quot; portion of your question it would sit better... As it stands your question reads as argumentative/borderline insulting to me when thinking about it in terms of the person who may find the site via a web search who is a big fan of vignetting... After all, we can probably both agree that vignetting and how much of it to apply to ones pictures is a subjective topic at best." CreationDate="2011-04-02T07:30:01.350" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="15399" PostId="8011" Score="1" Text="So many opinions but no facts. I have tried to supply the facts in my answer together with the references." CreationDate="2011-04-02T07:30:52.237" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15400" PostId="10464" Text="I'd disagree with point 2 - sometimes making the corners black may be a legitimate artistic technique." CreationDate="2011-04-02T07:54:04.150" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15402" PostId="10464" Text="One example - http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/2559821620_b16b99debc.jpg" CreationDate="2011-04-02T08:33:27.627" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15403" PostId="10462" Score="5" Text="@Jay, it is an important technique so I think it is worthwhile asking for guidelines to apply it. In photography we can't avoid subjective questions but I agree with you that subjective questions need to be carefully formulated. Failure to do that has a high potential to create damaging dissent or controversy." CreationDate="2011-04-02T08:52:38.083" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15404" PostId="10464" Score="1" Text="I am not sure why, but vignetting seems to look more appropriate in monochrome pictures. Also I find that I dislike vignetting when viewing an image on screen but like it when viewing a large print. I wonder if other people have similar views?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T08:59:29.867" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15405" PostId="10464" Text="@labnut I think it is the size, not the media. Bigger picture equals longer gradient equals more subtle effect. With smaller sizes you have to pay even more attention to not to overdo vignetting." CreationDate="2011-04-02T09:56:43.277" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="15406" PostId="6774" Text="+1 -- the first time I've understood the Zone System, thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-02T10:42:46.833" UserId="3660" />
  <row Id="15407" PostId="779" Score="1" Text="Gimbal heads are also *very* useful for panoramas (using a long dovetail/Arca Swiss plate) since they allow you to put both the horizonal and vertical axes of rotation around the node point of the lens. That means there will be no parallax shift of foreground and background objects between images. *Very* useful for the &quot;bokeh panorama&quot; technique of taking wide-angle shots with telephoto lenses." CreationDate="2011-04-02T11:18:00.937" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15408" PostId="10467" Text="+1 for not vignetting overexposed areas. It also looks awful when vignetting (or any other darkening effect, e.g. dodging/burning) is done to pale skin tones without attention to the horrid unnatural grey colours that result!" CreationDate="2011-04-02T11:26:34.457" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15409" PostId="10464" Text="@thomasrutter — highly subjective, but I think that example would have benefited from the &quot;reduce by half&quot; approach. Particularly in the top right, I feel like it'd be stronger without." CreationDate="2011-04-02T13:02:44.127" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15410" PostId="10470" Score="2" Text="I haven't used photoshop in ages, but that seems quite large. Do you mean the size of the files on disk, or do you mean the memory footprint of the file when you're working with it?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T13:06:51.470" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15411" PostId="174" Text="What locale(s) are you interested in selling *to*?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T13:34:12.123" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="15412" PostId="10444" Text="@eWolf - It's a rule-of-thumb and very approximate, it highly depends on the individual and resolution, so people just quote it as 1/F-L regardless of sensor-size. If you really want to adjust it, you actually have it backwards (Canon APS-C = 1/(1.6*F-L) and everyone else APS-C = 1/(1.5*F-L))." CreationDate="2011-04-02T14:13:48.273" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15414" PostId="10470" Text="The size of the .psd files roughly the image size * number of layers. If you have a lot of layers you will have large files, there's not a lot you can do about that." CreationDate="2011-04-02T15:48:07.567" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15416" PostId="10470" Text="So if you're using 60-140 layers on average, that makes sense. " CreationDate="2011-04-02T16:18:40.643" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15417" PostId="10459" Score="2" Text="Be careful though. Cokin ND filters give a colour cast when you stack them, as I found out to my cost!" CreationDate="2011-04-02T16:40:49.300" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="15418" PostId="10471" Text="It probably wouldn't hurt to post some symptomatic pictures, showing everyone precisely what you mean by &quot;doesn't get flash&quot; and &quot;incorrectly exposed.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-02T16:53:55.553" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="15419" PostId="10473" Score="2" Text="It also depends on what bit depth you work in. Working in 16-bit tends to help balloon your file size a bit as well. I would say I have had pretty similar experience to Matt here with Photoshop...400MB to 1GB files is not unheard of, and the more layer you add, the larger the files get." CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:38:03.873" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15420" PostId="10424" Text="@tenpn: We really need more info about what you want as an outcome. It is extremely difficult to provide an answer without knowing what your goal is. It may indeed be that this question fits better over at GraphicDesign-SE, but se still need more information to make that determination. At the absolute best, this is a wiki question, but without more specificity, it'll need to be closed as vauge/not a question." CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:44:11.590" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15421" PostId="10472" Text="Thanks for the suggestion. Since I posted, I've switched to my 20D and the flash has been synching without any apparent issues." CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:53:22.940" UserId="515" />
  <row Id="15422" PostId="10471" Text="I don't have any examples right now, but I'll take some later and post them." CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:54:38.557" UserId="515" />
  <row Id="15423" PostId="10467" Text="+1 for providing lots of examples - that really helps. (Although the &quot;yucky gray mush&quot; link starts loading and then I end up with a blank page - maybe I need to be logged in)." CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:56:54.620" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="15424" PostId="10467" Text="Actually, I can view the page source (really long) and found the image link: http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/a407/felicianeo1/ep1/4.jpg - not sure why the page goes wrong. I use Chromium on Ubuntu Linux." CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:58:43.027" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="15425" PostId="10471" Text="The pictures look a bit like the one shown on this page: http://photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00CYXd" CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:59:42.517" UserId="515" />
  <row Id="15426" PostId="10416" Text="I think these are all valid, but all come under the &quot;Technical Quality&quot; item of labnut's answer. I think his other two items need to be included for a full answer." CreationDate="2011-04-02T18:04:49.480" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="15427" PostId="10473" Score="1" Text="Not being afraid of commitment is a big deal -- even a bit of merging and purging during a session can keep you out of the scratch disk while working on a big image or a complex comp. It helps a lot, too, to remember that PSDs are working files, not image archives -- if you spring out of bed at three o'clock in the morning on a random Tuesday twenty years from now thinking Uncle Fred's teeth were too white in that picture, you can fix a TIFF version (or rework the original RAW file). You don't need to hang onto the PSD forever." CreationDate="2011-04-02T20:08:15.633" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15428" PostId="10478" Text="Most likely *some* pictures have been taken, but not necessarily that many. Perhaps someone just inserted a memory card that happened to contain IMG_3879.JPG and took one test shot – usually, it will be named IMG_3880.JPG even if the camera is brand-new. Now if you insert an empty memory card, the camera will remember the previous file name and your first photo will be named IMG_3881.JPG." CreationDate="2011-04-02T22:08:15.900" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="15429" PostId="10478" Text="thank you for your answer: that was my idea too, but what about batteries shuttercount? Is it resetted when I reload the Battery?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T22:23:48.797" UserId="4569" />
  <row Id="15430" PostId="10478" Text="Canon experts: can the actual shutter count be determined from the EXIF?" CreationDate="2011-04-02T22:31:47.683" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15431" PostId="10478" Text="I just checked the EXIF and in all of my photos ImageNumber is 0  &lt;aux:ImageNumber&gt;0&lt;/aux:ImageNumber&gt; " CreationDate="2011-04-02T22:37:47.400" UserId="4569" />
  <row Id="15432" PostId="10476" Score="1" Text="Got to ask, are you double-sharpening? If you are working from JPEG, your camera may have sharpened things nicely already and you are sharpening the sharpened-result which may look rather strange." CreationDate="2011-04-03T04:13:44.920" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15433" PostId="10469" Score="1" Text="Another issue is that Av wants to vary shutter speed by its nature, but sync speed is limited to 1/250 of a second. Av will often pick a higher shutter but be forced to 1/250, causing over-exposure in the image. Turning on highspeed-sync can help, but then the flash loses range because its firing bursts or pulses instead of a solid pop. It gets to be a pain either way, so I prefer manual too. " CreationDate="2011-04-03T05:19:42.920" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="15434" PostId="10131" Text="the D3000 can't trigger it wirelessly" CreationDate="2011-04-03T07:59:26.167" UserId="1270" />
  <row Id="15435" PostId="10467" Text="Ah that'd be a photobucket link.  I've replaced it with some different examples." CreationDate="2011-04-03T09:02:16.493" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15436" PostId="10464" Score="1" Text="I'd say it heavily depends on the artistic effect you're going for and how well you do it.&#xA;I'd say [this](http://www.websters-dictionary-online.net/images/wiki/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a7/Backlight-wedding.jpg/210px-Backlight-wedding.jpg) is horrible, whereas something like [this](http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2137/2452509751_23e6d11bd5_o.jpg) has a certain artistic legitimacy to it, even though it's much heavier." CreationDate="2011-04-03T09:48:35.487" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15437" PostId="10487" Score="1" Text="There's a [blog dedicated to the NEX series](http://sonyalphanex.blogspot.com/)." CreationDate="2011-04-03T10:34:30.737" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15438" PostId="10132" Text="Does the built-in flash have to fire for these optical triggers to work? Or the optical trigger fires instead of the popup flash and triggers the SB-600?" CreationDate="2011-04-03T11:04:02.937" UserId="1270" />
  <row Id="15439" PostId="10490" Text="#3 is a matter of encoding. You never _need_ more bits than the size of the data. " CreationDate="2011-04-03T12:18:57.660" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15440" PostId="10487" Text="While the several new mirrorless cameras can often use SLR lenses with an adapter (usually with limitations), they primarily use their own specialized interchangeable lenses. This is a strength, because the lens designs take advantage of the new mirrorless format, and a weakness because the lens lineups to date are quite small. " CreationDate="2011-04-03T12:35:14.830" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15441" PostId="10462" Text="Also voting to close this, it seems to subjective. For me, vignetting always destroys images. People who add vignetting when they had a good image to begin with should be criminally charged ;) Follow what you feel when deciding since you images have to please you, just don't do it in my jurisdiction!" CreationDate="2011-04-03T13:19:14.297" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15442" PostId="10467" Text="Vignette effect cannot be overused, but the bad use can be overused? Sorry, while the rest of your post is good, your introduction doesn't seem to make sense to me." CreationDate="2011-04-03T13:28:21.943" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15443" PostId="10467" Text="My point was that anybody who says vignette effect is overused is probably referring to bad or inappropriate use of vignette.  If done well it is just another tool, just like burn/dodge, with which to add some interest to your image." CreationDate="2011-04-03T14:20:58.280" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15444" PostId="10492" Text="I use the Cokin P system (albeit by a different manufacturer) with my 18-55 and the holder doesn't show even at the wide end (that's on a DX format camera)." CreationDate="2011-04-03T14:34:06.357" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15445" PostId="10488" Text="The only thing of interest that you can do with Capture NX that you can't do (slightly differently) with other programs is create custom picture settings to import to your camera (as U1, U2, etc., if your camera has those modes on the dial), and that's only important (really) if you find yourself shooting RAW when you'd rather be shooting JPEG (for instance, if you need the images to write to the card quickly for long bursts in continuous mode)." CreationDate="2011-04-03T15:45:11.923" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15446" PostId="10493" Score="1" Text="SLD is a fine term (better than &quot;EVIL&quot;), but I don't think the industry has really settled on what to call these things. " CreationDate="2011-04-03T16:02:20.493" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15447" PostId="10494" Score="2" Text="I don't think 256 is a number to be worried about. That's well within the range of reasonable testing — even at the factory." CreationDate="2011-04-03T16:19:17.070" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15448" PostId="10493" Text="@mattdm - It's pretty much settled but the term is young so has not propagated everywhere yet. We already had a question about it: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7219/what-does-the-acronym-sld-stand-for" CreationDate="2011-04-03T17:18:34.220" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15449" PostId="10493" Score="1" Text="I dunno, man. None of Olympus, Panasonic, Sony, or Samsung seem to use the term...." CreationDate="2011-04-03T18:12:22.913" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15450" PostId="7459" Text="Because they are each responsible for their own recycling, you can also shoot faster (in general) with monolights than with an equivalently-powered pack-and-head setup. And since there's no &quot;line loss&quot; (cable resistance), you can get the same light output for less actual electrical power with monolights (again, that's a speed thing -- don't expect makers to charge less for the same light output). That's a lot more important in the fashion world than elsewhere -- one tends to want to keep the energy up and capture movement, and a three-second recycle is a bit of a wet blanket." CreationDate="2011-04-03T18:23:38.327" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15451" PostId="10132" Text="The triggers react on light pulses, so they'll be triggered by the built-in flash. They then deliver a trigger voltage to the SB-600." CreationDate="2011-04-03T18:37:31.937" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="15452" PostId="8011" Text="@labnut I notice that chart was done w/a 20D and since the 20D is a 1.6x crop the sharpness falloff in the corners is less pronounced than on a FF body (5D).  In our office 3 different people have bought 3 different 24-70's and all 3 people have eventually stopped using them for critical work.  If you _need_ a 24-70 zoom @f2.8 (lowlight events, action etc) you pretty much don't have a choice, but..." CreationDate="2011-04-03T19:47:05.450" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="15453" PostId="10462" Text="@Itai, your dislike of vignetting is hardly a reason to judge something as too subjective and therefore to close it. Is this site for technicians or photographers?" CreationDate="2011-04-03T20:32:31.760" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15454" PostId="10462" Text="I have created a post on Meta.Photo.SE for continued discussion of this issue. http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/q/950/1480" CreationDate="2011-04-03T20:45:42.577" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15455" PostId="10462" Text="@labnut - I meant to show one opinion while we know of the opposite being accepted too. It is subjective because there is no facts to choose either way. I dislike vignetting just like I dislike the taste of certain foods. Nothing wrong with those foods except that I won't eat them ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-03T20:58:58.683" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15456" PostId="10493" Text="I'll try to dig up the press release when I have time. IIRC Olympus coined the term." CreationDate="2011-04-03T21:06:15.600" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15457" PostId="10503" Score="3" Text="I don't think that's a full resolution JPEG, it's not even 2 megapixels." CreationDate="2011-04-03T22:20:41.170" UserId="2312" />
  <row Id="15458" PostId="10502" Text="Weird thing is, I was talking to a salesman at a leading UK photography outlet - he reckons the S90 is selling better across all their stores.  Said the same thing happened with Canon G10 and G11 too." CreationDate="2011-04-03T22:40:38.760" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="15459" PostId="10505" Text="good recommendations, to which I would add - photograph a flat surface which is square on to the lens axis." CreationDate="2011-04-03T22:51:40.913" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15460" PostId="10476" Text="Nope, I shoot mostly in RAW." CreationDate="2011-04-03T22:55:53.877" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="15462" PostId="10476" Text="There does seem to be some sort of cultural blindness to oversharpening. My new flatscreen TV has a setting from 0-100, and comes at 50. Everything higher than 10 has really disturbuting-to-my-eye halos." CreationDate="2011-04-03T23:20:38.990" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15464" PostId="10470" Text="Yes, size of the files on disk, and yes, I have quite a few layers" CreationDate="2011-04-03T23:48:35.750" UserId="3181" />
  <row Id="15465" PostId="10473" Text="Thanks for the feedback.  I do use a lot of layers, the images are big to start with, and I normally edit in 16-bit.  I try to be as nondestructive as possible; I used to merge occasionally, but I thought that might be bad form.  " CreationDate="2011-04-03T23:50:16.703" UserId="3181" />
  <row Id="15466" PostId="10503" Text="i've uploaded the full-res image to another host, i guess tinypic downsized the image" CreationDate="2011-04-04T00:04:17.937" UserId="1834" />
  <row Id="15468" PostId="10511" Text="I assume you mean other than the obvious. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T00:51:55.997" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15469" PostId="10498" Score="1" Text="I find this answer somewhat malformed and misleading &quot;some of them are very much softer, often as a consequence of being two or three stops faster than the cheaper lenses&quot; makes no sense, do you mean if both are shot at max aperture?  &quot;...can afford the sometimes fiddly and fragile nature of consumer lenses, then the newer, cheaper optics are often a much better option&quot;... what?  Picking an old red-headed stepchild L lens as an example vs a very very new consumer lens then maybe, but as a rule this is not a good guideline." CreationDate="2011-04-04T00:59:51.243" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="15470" PostId="10496" Score="1" Text="The 17-40 L being an older misliked lens aside, its also worth noting that in your example the 17-40 is wide open at f4 while the 18-55 is stopped down 1/3 stop which should noticeably improve sharpness.  The same comparison at f3.5 favors the 17-40." CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:01:36.127" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="15471" PostId="10511" Text="In terms of what? Please clarify.  In terms of technicalities and how it works? Developing? I know color film is a lot more difficult to develop yourself than B&amp;W.  " CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:02:25.493" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="15472" PostId="10511" Score="1" Text="&quot;This question is ambiguous, vague, incomplete, **overly broad**, or rhetorical and cannot be reasonably answered in its current form.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:09:18.183" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="15473" PostId="10476" Text="@mattdm - It's only temporary, I showed some halos on my in-law's TV and he says he sees them everywhere now. Once you point out something you can't take it away ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:10:17.840" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15475" PostId="10502" Score="1" Text="My guess is that could be a reputation effect. The S90 had time to be admired and praised by many (I highly recommend it to my photo students too) and the small step between the two models means that not so many people looked at the S95 (I did not even bother review it either, my time is better spend on more innovative models)." CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:14:53.793" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15476" PostId="10476" Text="Where are you looking at your photos? Sharpening is supposed to be dependent on the output medium. Also if you are looking at images at anything other than 100% (including full-screen) your software is doing its own interpolation. This will clearly affect how you perceive sharpening." CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:17:54.383" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15477" PostId="10511" Score="1" Text="I read this question as &quot;how does film work?&quot;, but with an emphasis on the differences b&amp;w and color film. Reworded in that form, would it still be over-broad?" CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:19:02.960" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15478" PostId="10247" Text="Thanks; that review does contain a numeric measure of color error and of color gamut. But it doesn't have reviews for many printer models, even a common one like the HP 4600. " CreationDate="2011-04-04T01:57:43.423" UserId="2592" />
  <row Id="15479" PostId="10511" Text="I don't know how you could read the question that way without making some mighty massive assumptions about what the OP *maybe*, *possibly*, &quot;CouldaWouldaShoulda&quot; intended to ask. In my opinion, without clarification and additional information from the OP there's not enough information present to even potentially reword this question into something 'worth saving.'" CreationDate="2011-04-04T02:03:31.407" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="15480" PostId="10503" Text="Try uploading directly from the question edit form --- you should be able to upload a full-res picture with no hassles." CreationDate="2011-04-04T02:43:41.153" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15481" PostId="10498" Score="1" Text="No, you don't necessarily have to shoot an expensive, fast lens wide-open to experience softness. &quot;L&quot; (or a gold line, or whatever the maker's distinguishing mark might be) is not a guarantee of sharpness. My answer says precisely what I meant it to say. " CreationDate="2011-04-04T03:18:26.707" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15483" PostId="10511" Text="I have to agree with Jay. On the surface, this may seem answerable, but it's really rather huge. To better answer, I think we'd be served by knowing exactly what Emily is looking for." CreationDate="2011-04-04T03:33:09.430" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15484" PostId="5566" Text="@Jukka - I think this should be an answer, rather than a comment." CreationDate="2011-04-04T03:35:10.310" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15485" PostId="10459" Text="This is all very helpful, thank you all!  And specifically to Nick Miners, this was actually in reference to some cheap Cokin filters I picked up just to play around with, so that's good to know!" CreationDate="2011-04-04T04:09:43.937" UserId="3829" />
  <row Id="15486" PostId="10511" Text="I assume the OP wants to know how color film &quot;sees&quot; color unlike B&amp;W film.  " CreationDate="2011-04-04T04:39:27.390" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="15487" PostId="10446" Text="@Chris Is the picture underexposed (dark) or overexposed (bright) in AV mode?" CreationDate="2011-04-04T05:37:24.547" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15488" PostId="10500" Text="+1 for a factual reply with references." CreationDate="2011-04-04T05:48:44.013" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15489" PostId="10510" Text="+1 for providing a good reference" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:05:27.147" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15490" PostId="10489" Score="1" Text="And, of course, SLD cameras lack that satisfying kachunk that SLRs make." CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:35:06.197" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15491" PostId="10516" Score="2" Text="Additionally camera shake is a frequent cause of soft images." CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:56:44.237" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15492" PostId="10516" Text="Thanks labnut; I added motion blur to the answer." CreationDate="2011-04-04T08:08:43.610" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15493" PostId="10511" Text="The question could also be answered in terms of resolution, dynamic range and contrast. It certainly qualifies for closure. On the other hand should we cut some slack for brand new members? Welcome to the forum, we would like to help you ask questions in a more useful way? For future reference this is how we do things here, please don't feel rejected or intimidated." CreationDate="2011-04-04T08:12:17.793" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15494" PostId="10486" Text="+1 for the mid-chest/waist tip." CreationDate="2011-04-04T08:26:03.970" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15496" PostId="10511" Text="@labnut: If you mean &quot;cut some slack&quot; in terms of &quot;letting a bad question stand,&quot; then the answer is clearly: &quot;no, letting bad questions stand harms the community in myriad ways.&quot; If you mean &quot;cut some slack&quot; in terms of &quot;allowing the OP to modify the question in order to shift it from a 'bad' one into a 'good' one,&quot; then, yes, I believe that clarification is what is being asked for within the comments. In the absence of additional information from the OP this question must be taken out behind the barn and put out of its misery..." CreationDate="2011-04-04T08:44:29.563" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="15497" PostId="10511" Text="@Jay, no, don't let a bad question stand. But with an obviously brand new member we could be encouraging and adopt a less harsh and intimidating tone. The question, as it stands, will have to be closed if Emily does not improve the question, but let's give her a reasonable opportunity." CreationDate="2011-04-04T09:02:54.547" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15498" PostId="10443" Text="@Staale: I understand - 'everything being pixels thing', and the 'lossless JPEG codec as well' but still questions remains, how can it have 3 components for each pixels stored in the raw. Sensor doesnt give a triplet for each physical pixel, but it gives only one of the 3(R,G,or B), not all 3 which the formats seems to be storing for eack pixel.. Thats the qn." CreationDate="2011-04-04T09:17:40.587" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="15499" PostId="10515" Score="1" Text="You could add some reference image here so we can see whether image softness is something usual or is it extraordinary in case of your lens." CreationDate="2011-04-04T09:19:41.977" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15500" PostId="10496" Text="@Shizam, &quot;The same comparison at f3.5 favors the 17-40.&quot; - well not really, you wont get any photo at 3.5 from 17-40 ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T09:47:36.097" UserId="115" />
  <row Id="15502" PostId="7126" Text="sometimes, yes, at other times, no. Of course proper technique is holding the body with one hand, the lens with the other :)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T10:03:38.240" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="15503" PostId="10511" Text="@Emily -- you can (and should) edit your question to be more clear." CreationDate="2011-04-04T11:27:19.747" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15504" PostId="10519" Text="Which test chart do you recommend and why?" CreationDate="2011-04-04T11:42:30.400" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15505" PostId="10516" Score="1" Text="Another good reference is www.slrgear.com, which I actually prefer - (http://www.slrgear.com/reviews/zproducts/canon50f18/tloader.htm). It shows that the edges are very soft at f1.8 (7 to 8 Blur Units) and f2.0. This might be the source of @PRK's impressions. The lens sharpens markedly at f2.8 and becomes excellent from f4.0 (1 to 2 Blur Units)." CreationDate="2011-04-04T12:31:22.260" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15506" PostId="10519" Text="I would probably go with his, but I'm not an expert. He gives a good description of how to do put it together. Besides, I think the key to it is consistent behaviour, so while a commercially printed chart may be better, you can probably learn a lot from the one he provides with good technique shooting the test." CreationDate="2011-04-04T13:01:24.267" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15507" PostId="10518" Text="Related Question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2917/how-do-you-find-out-the-sweet-spot-of-a-lens" CreationDate="2011-04-04T13:02:11.043" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="15508" PostId="10523" Text="Don't want to sound a douche, but couldn't you download the trial version of Photoshop Elements 9? As an added bonus, you would be able to test if the Elements fits your needs in the other aspects as well." CreationDate="2011-04-04T13:20:00.847" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="15509" PostId="10523" Score="2" Text="Would if I could. My broadband sucks, in-laws broadband rocks, but I'm no longer at my in-laws. Only tried CS5 once I got back, so it's only just occurred to me. (They live hours and hours away, by the way)." CreationDate="2011-04-04T14:04:33.483" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15510" PostId="10524" Score="6" Text="Is it just me, or would this be more appropriate at the [photography SE site](http://photo.stackexchange.com/)?" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:40:43.433" />
  <row Id="15511" PostId="10526" Text="Thanks for the answer. The sensors I'm working with, are all CCD B/W. All the CMOS sensors that I found are rolling shutter, that is not suitable for my application" CreationDate="2011-04-04T09:37:40.727" />
  <row Id="15512" PostId="10527" Score="4" Text="It's marketing silliness +1" CreationDate="2011-04-04T10:39:39.043" />
  <row Id="15513" PostId="10443" Text="@Staale: Thanks for the answer edit/comment." CreationDate="2011-04-04T14:22:35.037" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="15514" PostId="10521" Score="4" Text="To heck with science, if you got an 800 GB card, ***I'm*** interested in it!" CreationDate="2011-04-04T14:57:24.743" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15515" PostId="10524" Score="1" Text="I believe this question is about video equipment, and as such is actually off-topic here, despite the migration from the physics SE site. " CreationDate="2011-04-04T15:00:44.960" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15516" PostId="10523" Text="@Elendil Fair enough; investigated an answer in return :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T15:03:55.953" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="15517" PostId="10496" Text="Of the 18-55 @f3.5, ie both of them wide open." CreationDate="2011-04-04T15:33:15.647" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="15518" PostId="10422" Text="I think this comes closest to answering the question, although I'd really love some more details." CreationDate="2011-04-04T16:02:15.560" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15519" PostId="10528" Text="Excellent. Hopefully they don't 'strip down' ACR for Elements and just give it the same version number." CreationDate="2011-04-04T17:03:12.350" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15520" PostId="10531" Score="1" Text="Ah, hadn't thought of a tripod collar but that would definitely work for a SLR with a longer lens... " CreationDate="2011-04-04T17:15:40.947" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="15521" PostId="10528" Text="@Elendil I highly doubt it, as it is developed as a plugin i.e. separately from Photoshop and Photoshop Elements—but I'm not an Adobe dev." CreationDate="2011-04-04T17:30:53.420" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="15523" PostId="384" Score="1" Text="@CodeToGlory — it kind of has to be, as there's no single answer. Even answers which try to summarize the whole Internet can't be complete, and could be disagreed with by a reasonable person. " CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:48:07.613" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15524" PostId="10535" Text="Thanks for the info, I am using a Canon 60D do you know if it has the auto ISO feature?" CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:15:14.703" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15525" PostId="10535" Score="3" Text="@John Isaacks it does, you can access it by pressing the ISO button on the top of the camera. You might also need to access the main menu and set the &quot;ISO Auto&quot; option to a higher max number, this sets the maximum ISO the camera can automatically select (forcing it to adjusting the aperture further in this case)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:19:27.090" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15526" PostId="10537" Text="Thanks for the info about turning IS off when using a tripod, didn't know that." CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:23:34.260" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15527" PostId="10537" Text="Also never heard of the stroboscope technique before, pretty cool." CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:25:53.727" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15528" PostId="10535" Text="@ChrisFletcher thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:27:19.077" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15529" PostId="10537" Text="@John Isaacks - that's actually a pretty old method for capturing high speed events, or for creating multiple exposures for capturing motion paths: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stroboscope" CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:30:09.783" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15530" PostId="10534" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7784/techniques-for-high-speed-photography " CreationDate="2011-04-04T19:54:52.797" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15531" PostId="10534" Text="Which ISO setting did you use anyway? you should be fine if you used anything to and including 800 anyway." CreationDate="2011-04-04T20:12:22.477" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15532" PostId="10517" Text="Its usually wise to format the card after you've transferred your photos. Many unusual things may happen otherwise. Happened to me before..." CreationDate="2011-04-04T20:19:43.987" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15533" PostId="10534" Text="@Robert, honestly I don't remember." CreationDate="2011-04-04T20:21:38.827" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15534" PostId="10540" Score="3" Text="useful information [http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/325/how-can-i-know-what-speed-card-to-get-for-my-camera](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/325/how-can-i-know-what-speed-card-to-get-for-my-camera)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T20:28:20.647" UserId="3611" />
  <row Id="15535" PostId="10528" Text="I will hold off buying it until I can get the trial, just in case." CreationDate="2011-04-04T20:43:03.793" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15536" PostId="10541" Text="There's quite a bit of noise in this image..." CreationDate="2011-04-04T21:48:46.580" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15537" PostId="10541" Score="1" Text="Yes - it's the result of A) an old version of ACR and B) the method I used for B&amp;W conversion (Calculations). I don't mind it so much, it kind of gives a film-grain effect: it's not like I'm displaying it in MOMA. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T21:58:25.837" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15538" PostId="10541" Text="@ElendilTheTall: Yes it does give it a fast film grainy look, doesn't it." CreationDate="2011-04-04T22:08:26.337" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15539" PostId="10543" Score="1" Text="In what way horrible? Blurry, dark, poor colors?  With or without flash?" CreationDate="2011-04-04T22:15:19.667" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="15540" PostId="10543" Score="6" Text="This is too general unfortunately.  Try posting a picture you don't like, what you don't like about it, and ask how to not do that.  Right now we don't have a clue if your problem is lighting, basic exposure, composition, unrealistic expectations, limitations of the lens/camera for your intended subject, etc..." CreationDate="2011-04-04T22:18:49.380" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15541" PostId="10537" Text="+1 - The technique I always use is darkness, low ISO (100), long shutter, and a short flash burst wirelessly controlled. At this point I can pull 500 usable images out of 600 shutter actuations (which is about a 30 minute water drop session for me)." CreationDate="2011-04-04T23:19:07.147" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15543" PostId="10527" Text="Not quite silliness, if I am buying a lens for a 1/2&quot; analogue camera with 240lines resolution I don't want to pay for one designed for a 1920x1080 HD chip" CreationDate="2011-04-04T23:59:20.527" UserId="631" />
  <row Id="15544" PostId="10544" Score="2" Text="Just to emphasise what Itai said, start borrowing books from your local library. You'll find something that looks useful for sure. Libraries have several bonuses - unlike bookstores, nobody complains if you stand there reading and there's no problem with exchanges if you don't like it. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-04T23:59:49.607" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="15545" PostId="10544" Text="Just a few topics to be sure to read up on: shutter speed, aperture, camera shake, how to hold and focus camera." CreationDate="2011-04-05T00:04:20.837" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="15546" PostId="10543" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the site!" CreationDate="2011-04-05T02:02:54.413" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15547" PostId="10550" Score="7" Text="+1 - I'll also add that if the photos are done sans clothing, a hairdryer is a must for keeping the baby warm. As an added bonus, the hum of the dryer is usually soothing as well." CreationDate="2011-04-05T02:12:49.323" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15548" PostId="10375" Text="I have the Canon EF-S 55-250 IS, and I've taken some pictures I like quite a lot of birds in the back yard (through the window, without a tripod or other support).  IS helps a lot.  Is it professionally sharp, could I sell those images?  I can't tell you that.  If you post an email address, I can send links to some pictures I've taken." CreationDate="2011-04-05T02:31:13.793" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="15549" PostId="10511" Score="1" Text="Despite the simplicity, and the fact that there is the &quot;obvious&quot; difference, I don't think the true intent of this question is lost or difficult to understand. Beside the fact that color film captures color, while B&amp;W film does not, I think the question is entirely answerable as it is. I also know that we have numerous knowledgeable members who can answer this with ease, and I encourage them to do so, rather than discuss whether this is a valid question. Even though it is fairly general, it can still be answered at a general level. Specifics are not being asked, so they shouldn't be provided." CreationDate="2011-04-05T02:46:50.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15550" PostId="10511" Score="2" Text="If I read this question without any presumptions, or any assumptions, it has a distinct meaning: 'What is the difference between black and white **film** and color **film**?' It is not asking what the differences in *developing* B&amp;W and Color film, it is not asking what the differences in specific technical design of the two types of film...it is just asking the difference between the two types of film...what makes color film &quot;color&quot; film?" CreationDate="2011-04-05T02:51:54.133" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15552" PostId="10543" Text="I don't think this is completely unanswerable. The question is: how to get over being intimidated by a daunting field of art, technology, and skill. There's reasonable, objective answers to that." CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:01:38.633" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15554" PostId="10543" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4625/baby-and-kids-photos-how-do-i-manage-good-pics" CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:06:55.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15555" PostId="10365" Text="@jrista: how are tests like that conducted? The papers I see reference studies on human subjects giving subjective responses, rather than measurements or anything. Right now I am too tired to understand anything I'm reading, but I'm developing the sneaking suspicion that a model which separates color into hue, saturation, and value also has limitations. Not that that necessarily relates directly to my question here. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:21:49.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15556" PostId="10365" Text="@mattdm: Every color model we have ever devised has limitations...its the nature of the best. Were only &quot;modeling&quot; reality, nothing more. Until the day we can actually take direct measurements from within the eye, or even directly off the cones and rods themselves, we will probably never fully understand color vision, and therefor, all of our models will be flawed in one way or another. To keep things simple, both HSV/B/L and RGB color models have their limitations. RGB is a horrid way to *model* color, but a great way to *emit* or *sense* color, as it matches the hardware level design." CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:51:04.003" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15557" PostId="10365" Text="Color systems that separate hue and saturation from luminosity are better ways to *model* color, as they more closely match how we see. Technically speaking, the Lab model is the most perceptually relevant model, as it has a green/magenta color *axis*, and a blue/yellow color axis, which are diametrically opposed poles that can't be used to represent both of their primary colors at the same time (i.e. you can either have magenta or green, but not both simultaneously). Luminosity is presented by a third axis in a different plane. Cont -&gt;" CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:55:00.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15558" PostId="10365" Text="L*a*b* is about as close as it gets to the two color axes and the intensity axis of human eyesight, which is why it is the sole color model/space used to compute chromatically adapted color difference, which is critical in color matching, color space conversion, perceptually accurate color model development (such as ink jet color models), etc. On the flip side, HSL, HSB, YCC, etc. are not great for *emitting* or *sensing* color, as it is difficult or impossible to design a device in such a way that would make it possible. Sensing specific colors (i.e. RGB) is easier and more cost effective." CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:59:13.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15559" PostId="10365" Text="As for how vision tests are conducted, it has to do with field of vision. Many color vision tests use a dark screen, and emit points of light at certain angles in a specific field of view. You can stimulate just the 2-10° area around the foveal spot, or stimulate just the foveal spot, or stimulate extreme peripheral regions of the retina. Go into an ophthalmologist and complain about extensive vision problems...you'll learn a lot about vision and vision testing that way. ;P I have something called fibrous cloudy masses in my eyes, which wreak havoc on my vision. I've done all the tests." CreationDate="2011-04-05T04:04:35.990" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15560" PostId="10557" Score="1" Text="Before and after shots of similar subjects/exposures would be useful.... I'm tempted to say that it shouldn't have made any difference, but would really like to see what you're seeing that made you ask." CreationDate="2011-04-05T04:57:23.440" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15561" PostId="10505" Score="1" Text="and a remote shutter release if you can get one..." CreationDate="2011-04-05T05:06:54.533" UserId="1579" />
  <row Id="15562" PostId="78" Text="It also depends on focal length..." CreationDate="2011-04-05T05:15:43.297" UserId="1579" />
  <row Id="15563" PostId="10560" Score="1" Text="The second article you linked to is a bit misleading - higher shutter speed doesn't necessarily mean more sharpness; it simply means less motion blur. To compensate for a higher shutter speed, though, you'll need a wider aperture and/or a higher ISO; both of these can lead to decreased sharpness. Lenses have a [&quot;sweet spot&quot;](http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/2917/378) aperture which gives the sharpest images; it's generally stopped down a bit from wide open. High ISO leads to more noise, and noise reduction destroys details." CreationDate="2011-04-05T05:17:30.747" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15564" PostId="10551" Score="2" Text="I've used a few of them... they all seem to fail at a couple key points listed in @ahockley's question: smooth and axis down the lens." CreationDate="2011-04-05T05:34:00.837" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15565" PostId="10515" Text="Thanks Evan and Labnut... I actually shot it at 1.8 and indoor.. Will try shooting outdoors and at f2 and above." CreationDate="2011-04-05T03:27:55.413" UserId="4489" />
  <row Id="15566" PostId="10446" Text="Thank you, everyone!  I appreciate teh answers and feedback!" CreationDate="2011-04-05T02:48:55.993" UserId="4597" />
  <row Id="15567" PostId="10560" Text="@Evan Krall: You're right (+1), I just think that understanding something this simple (maybe not at first glance, but these are the basics) should be the amongst first steps for understanding photography. The first article should help understand camera settings, and the other should help understand the consequence of modifying of each setting..." CreationDate="2011-04-05T09:17:17.640" UserId="1579" />
  <row Id="15568" PostId="10569" Score="6" Text="Relevant info [here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2149/what-is-a-macro-lens), [here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/prime-vs-zoom-vs-macro-lens) and [here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/140/considerations-when-purchasing-a-macro-lens); also maybe [here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7974/why-is-11-desirable-for-a-macro-lens)." CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:06:24.353" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="15569" PostId="10570" Text="Thanks Nick... But is it worth buying a macro insteat of regular lense? As I see that macro fast lenses are much cheaper than a fast lens of similat focal length..." CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:16:17.993" UserId="4489" />
  <row Id="15570" PostId="10570" Text="Can you give examples of such comparisons? I can't see which lenses you're referring to." CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:21:29.137" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="15571" PostId="10570" Text="I mean is it possible to substitute a macro lense in place of a standard lens of same focal length?" CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:23:03.543" UserId="4489" />
  <row Id="15572" PostId="10570" Text="I mean 100mm or 35 mm " CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:23:33.447" UserId="4489" />
  <row Id="15573" PostId="10570" Score="2" Text="Macro lenses are much better-corrected than ordinary lenses, because at the extreme closeup distances they're designed for many of the flaws that are common to all lenses are greatly magnified. Those corrections, along with the focusing mechanism (which has to cover a much greater variation) make macro lenses more expensive by their very nature. You can usually get a conventional prime lens that is as fast as or faster than a macro of the same focal length for less money that will be as good or better for portraiture, but you need to buy an extra lens for macro work. (cont'd)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:29:34.253" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15574" PostId="10570" Score="1" Text="(Damned wifi...) That's why macro lenses have traditionally doubled as portrait lenses at the same focal length -- no photographer wants to buy the &quot;same&quot; lens twice if he doesn't have to." CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:32:11.083" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15575" PostId="10570" Text="@PRK as Stan says, macro lenses are typically more expensive than standard lenses, so I don't know where you get the impression that they are cheaper, which is why I asked for an example. However to answer your question, as I said in my answer above, you CAN substitute one for the other where the focal distance is long enough, e.g. for portraits. " CreationDate="2011-04-05T10:36:22.503" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="15576" PostId="10574" Score="1" Text="what os are you on? That's going to change the answer quite a bit." CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:10:50.930" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15577" PostId="10574" Score="1" Text="this question is not very appropriate for photoSE" CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:33:38.680" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="15578" PostId="10565" Score="2" Text="Ken Rockwell _does_ have some useful information, but he also has a lot of crazy misinformation as well. He basically writes an entertainment site, and puts down whatever pops into his head. Beware. (This isn't slander or anything; he says so on the &quot;about this site&quot; page.)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:36:47.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15579" PostId="10574" Score="8" Text="It's peripheral, but I think it's definitely on topic, as managing large collections of photographs is important to many photographers." CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:38:50.407" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15580" PostId="381" Text="there's no such thing as learning &quot;SLR photography&quot;, it's just photography you need to know about; the fact that you're using a SLR is quite not relevant. You may consider changing the title of your question. Also it makes sense to make a distinction between composition (and other to some degree artistic aspects) and technique." CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:42:53.900" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="15581" PostId="10575" Text="+1 for answering all common questions about macro lenses" CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:53:56.713" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="15582" PostId="10574" Text="@cabbey Windows 7" CreationDate="2011-04-05T11:58:54.703" UserId="4014" />
  <row Id="15583" PostId="10576" Score="2" Text="If he is using Linux, then digikam could do the job (its duplicate search accepts images and searches for images that look similar). This works quite well, in this example the images are all slightly different: http://granjow.net/uploads/digikam/digikam-fuzzy-image-duplicates.png" CreationDate="2011-04-05T12:02:43.820" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="15584" PostId="10557" Text="I don't have 'before' shots that I can use for comparison. If I had one, I could've done the comparison myself before asking the question or at-least I'd post the images, I'll look for one though. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-04-05T12:13:49.190" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="15585" PostId="10561" Text="I'm on it, Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-05T12:14:41.293" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="15586" PostId="10581" Text="This should be a comment on your other answer, not a new question. Also, I notice you have two accounts — you probably want to straighten that out." CreationDate="2011-04-05T13:25:42.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15587" PostId="10541" Text="Lots of stuff at the MOMA &quot;quite a bit of noise&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-05T13:25:53.740" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="15589" PostId="10576" Text="Narrow it down by date, then pay your kid brother/nephew/niece £5/$5 to find it.  It'll be fun for them and cost effective for you :)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T14:58:25.587" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="15590" PostId="9030" Text="Well not exactly... ;) http://www.digital-photography-school.com/5-kinds-of-photography-equipment-that-waste-your-money Check #3." CreationDate="2011-04-05T15:47:04.953" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15591" PostId="10579" Text="My opinion of indexing programs is very poor, because of loss of performance and needless hard drive activity. Thumbnails can be generated in realtime by a good browsing program and the user need only visit candidate folders instead of the whole drive." CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:20:50.113" UserId="63" />
  <row Id="15592" PostId="10576" Text="+1 for narrowing search by date" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:21:57.787" UserId="63" />
  <row Id="15593" PostId="10498" Text="Thank you for giving me a new understanding of what the &quot;L&quot; actually means!" CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:33:08.983" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15594" PostId="10581" Text="I've merged Arts two accounts. Since he created a second account, that was why he could not comment on his previous answer (the system saw his original answer as being from someone else, and you can only comment on others questions/answers when you have 50 rep.) @Art: You should be able to put the above answer in a comment to your previous answer, and delete this answer now. " CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:51:23.410" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15595" PostId="10490" Text="@mattdm: I think your misunderstanding what he is saying. Art is correct in his statement that color space is not linear (if you look at the CIE 1931 XYZ color plot, you'll see it has a curved shape with more area dedicated to green hues.) I think what Art is getting at is you should allocate more bits to green than blues or reds to fully realize the potential of a color space. Using 10 or 12 bits per channel helps achieve this, although it is still not an ideal distribution of bits per color. I would disagree with #1...but, thats a discussion for another day." CreationDate="2011-04-05T16:54:09.820" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15597" PostId="8814" Text="Hey, it is a real fun question." CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:55:57.483" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15599" PostId="10490" Text="The key is &quot;equal sized steps&quot;. Just because you can't do that doesn't mean that you need more precision than there is data. You just need the right encoding. But I absolutely agree that there may be practical reasons for using more bits and a less space-efficient encoding. (See our previous long discussion on the very-inefficient scRGB working space.)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T18:16:56.210" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15600" PostId="10577" Score="1" Text="This is where I would start, taking any info that can be had from the FB photo (such as date posted) as a clue as well. " CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:02:40.570" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="15601" PostId="10594" Score="1" Text="And then, buy LR. I'm personally too lazy to do much formal organization of my photos, but LR has made it possible for more than 80% of them to be sensibly tagged, and all to be findable through its filters. The one thing I do every time I pull photos from a camera is to immediately import them into LR tagged &quot;TODO&quot;. (LR is [Adobe Photoshop Lightroom](http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshoplightroom/).)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:06:23.313" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="15602" PostId="8782" Text="Do you only use short lenses? I can't see past the lens barrel in the lower-right corner to frame precisely enough." CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:15:29.210" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15603" PostId="2410" Text="+1 i have the exact same experience and opinion :)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:17:55.003" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="15604" PostId="10599" Score="4" Text="Good call on the contract. Giving yourself permission in the fine print is the American Way. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:31:32.613" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15605" PostId="2895" Score="1" Text="@Mike Fitzpatrick: it would at least by _helpful_ to summarize the site briefly, so that someone going through the site knows _why_ to bother to click. Without that, it really is unhelpful." CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:33:34.767" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15606" PostId="175" Text="A very-relevant blog post from Mike Johnston at _The Online Photographer_: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/04/slightly-finer-grain.html" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:46:26.960" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15607" PostId="10602" Text="Advice to leave tripod at home is good. Shutter speed numbers depend on way too many factors to make this a good answer." CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:50:24.040" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15608" PostId="10568" Text="The negative part about &quot;they&quot; at the end of this post doesn't seem very constructive." CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:52:03.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15609" PostId="10560" Score="1" Text="Plus, &quot;triangle&quot;. Ugh. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-05T19:54:21.543" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15610" PostId="174" Text="The universe :)  Seriously, no specific locale ... although generally the US." CreationDate="2011-04-05T20:03:11.850" UserId="33" />
  <row Id="15611" PostId="10492" Text="That makes sense, thank you!" CreationDate="2011-04-05T20:23:38.397" UserId="3331" />
  <row Id="15612" PostId="10596" Score="2" Text="Meh. It's not Reddit here, you don't need the tl;dr-meme." CreationDate="2011-04-05T20:31:04.120" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="15613" PostId="10599" Text="+1 for giving a reference" CreationDate="2011-04-05T20:57:01.960" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15616" PostId="10563" Text="+1 for &quot;you'll know it's the right time to switch to manual mode when you understand why auto mode isn't doing what you want.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-05T23:21:31.913" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15617" PostId="10565" Text="That said, I like Ken Rockwell's site.  I wouldn't say it's full of crazy misinformation, more like outlandish statements that aren't always backed up with all his reasoning, but which he earnestly believes nonetheless.  It's just one guy and what his views on photography." CreationDate="2011-04-06T00:05:29.417" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15618" PostId="10579" Text="All management tools will work on a database as it's easier and quicker to search a catalog than do raw disk I/O searches. When in the situation presented by the op, then running multiple searches against that catalog is going to be better than the heavy I/O required for each search performed." CreationDate="2011-04-06T00:49:28.687" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="15619" PostId="2885" Score="1" Text="Yay for 1x!!! :)" CreationDate="2011-04-06T02:23:53.893" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="15620" PostId="10608" Text="All I can say is... Ouch. Unfortunately, I can't offer advice on a Canon service center, but hopefully they can fix it up for you." CreationDate="2011-04-06T02:54:42.270" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15621" PostId="10608" Text="They will fix it up for you for a fee since this is not covered under warranty. Any user error is your fault. Warranties are for manufacturer's fault. If there is any evidence of external impact, they will charge you even for looking at it. If you put yourself in their shoes, I am sure you can understand." CreationDate="2011-04-06T03:08:24.820" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15622" PostId="10608" Text="@Itai - I kinda imagine that. I do need to check the photo equipment rider on my home insurance policy, it may cover damage as well as loss. However, the question still remains, which center should I work with?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T03:22:48.950" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15623" PostId="10569" Text="This really is a duplicate...of probably all of the questions @koiyu linked. If you have something discernibly distinct from those four you need to ask about macro lenses, could you update your question to more specifically reflect them? If not, I'll probably merge this into the most relevant of the questions koiyu linked within a day." CreationDate="2011-04-06T03:36:05.127" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15624" PostId="10565" Text="Agreed, there is quite a bit of outlandish stuff - But for a beginner who is finding it difficult to understand his camera manual; I thought this was probably the only site that would help with a more detailed manual. Is there another site that provides a better beginner user guide to a camera?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T04:27:19.993" UserId="4599" />
  <row Id="15625" PostId="10605" Score="1" Text="Just an addition to labnut's great answer, if you installed it, but didn't design it, you might need to talk to the designer that planned it too." CreationDate="2011-04-06T05:27:59.683" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15626" PostId="10607" Text="That is a very useful reference" CreationDate="2011-04-06T06:43:13.630" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15627" PostId="10611" Text="Another very useful reference" CreationDate="2011-04-06T06:55:42.867" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15628" PostId="10132" Text="what if I dont want the built-in flash to fire i.e emit light?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T07:16:43.293" UserId="1270" />
  <row Id="15629" PostId="8783" Score="1" Text="+1 for the last sentence. Having shot pro-rodeo from inside the arena for many years, having both eyes open kept me out of a lot of trouble." CreationDate="2011-04-06T07:31:30.263" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="15630" PostId="10575" Text="A macro lens also has a very flat field of view making it suitable for photographing things like documents. And it makes a very good prime lens for general purpose use, which is why I have a 50mm macro.." CreationDate="2011-04-06T08:50:08.277" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15631" PostId="10614" Score="1" Text="How do you know the aperture opens and closes?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T09:17:26.950" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15632" PostId="10615" Text="Nice cat, good photo" CreationDate="2011-04-06T11:01:38.737" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15633" PostId="10615" Text="http://theridiculant.metro.co.uk/2010/01/cats-what-the-internet-is-made-of.html" CreationDate="2011-04-06T11:09:19.913" UserId="2520" />
  <row Id="15634" PostId="10608" Text="Do not send anything in to a service center without calling support first. They will walk you through some tests and then give you the information you need to send your equipment in." CreationDate="2011-04-06T11:42:02.290" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="15635" PostId="10615" Text="LOL. Cats (and dogs) are the most successful species on earth. Why? Because they are the only species that have successfully trained another species to care for them." CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:01:03.280" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15636" PostId="10614" Text="Does autofocus occur between steps 3 and 4?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:02:34.813" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15637" PostId="10616" Text="While this specific question wasn't asked, it is addressed in several of the answers to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5507/what-is-the-difference-between-uv-and-skylight-filters" CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:06:46.450" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15638" PostId="10618" Text="I'm not sure if that's entirely correct - the aperture is wide open while you're looking through the viewfinder, to aid focusing as you say, but it stops down when you press the shutter button to take the shot and stays stopped throughout the exposure. Evan Krall describes something that sounds odd to me: I can't think why the aperture should open up _after_ the shutter closes, because focusing should have occurred before then." CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:12:45.560" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15639" PostId="6277" Text="Also take a look at http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/04/real-reasons.html" CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:45:40.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15640" PostId="10616" Score="2" Text="I should also add: a better filter will improve image quality only in the sense that it will _harm image quality less_.  See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/are-there-any-downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter" CreationDate="2011-04-06T12:50:40.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15641" PostId="10596" Text="Hmm, I'm to used to StackOverflow :]" CreationDate="2011-04-06T14:24:31.433" UserId="4613" />
  <row Id="15642" PostId="10596" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2138/what-storage-solutions-are-there-for-working-with-large-volumes-of-digital-photo" CreationDate="2011-04-06T14:47:27.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15643" PostId="1205" Text="I believe that Google has stopped developing Picasa for linux users. They only offer an old version for linux at this point. And technically the version they offer isn't even built for linux. It's just their Window's release with WINE built-in, so some stuff doesn't work quite right." CreationDate="2011-04-06T15:51:41.967" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="15644" PostId="10625" Score="1" Text="See also this question on what to do with the dial once you know what it is. :)  http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6681/how-do-i-calibrate-the-diopter-correction-on-my-dslrs-viewfinder" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:07:02.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15645" PostId="10626" Text="+1 Thanks, I do wear glasses, I have been shooting with them on though. If I am comfortable that way, is there any reason to shoot without them using the diopter? Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:11:08.447" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15646" PostId="10629" Score="2" Text="There's no real answerable question here.  This really falls under the &quot;there is no actual problem to be solved: “I’m curious if other people feel like I do.” in the FAQ." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:33:23.947" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15647" PostId="10629" Score="1" Text="@rfusca: this question is not argumentative. It's potentially very useful to beginners because they may be disappointed after a few shoots with their brand new camera for not getting every single photo perfect (because that was the reason why they bought this fancy camera in the first place). The correct answer would be one with some in depth insight. Let me put that in the question as well. Just to make it clear." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:37:04.127" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15648" PostId="10629" Text="@rfusca: interestingly enough the question got upvoted. I'm amazed myself because you're probably right about the type of question I asked..." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:38:48.293" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15649" PostId="10630" Text="1:10? Wow that good to actually publish it online? I'm impressed. Can you add a link to some of your photos that got this 1:10 ratio? I'd be interested to see." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:39:54.720" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15650" PostId="10629" Score="1" Text="@Robert Koritnik - I still think its out of scope personally.  You're still just asking how many photos it takes somebody personally to get a great photo which is really just a survey.  The best answer may include some insight into how to take good photos but then its still far too broad to be a useful question." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:41:21.457" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15651" PostId="10630" Text="+1 for the information about varying ration depending on the type of shoot you do." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:41:27.790" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15652" PostId="10629" Text="@rfusca: you're right. If you have the privilege you can vote for closing this question. I should rephrase it somehow but I don't know how." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:42:56.463" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15653" PostId="10630" Text="Thanks! I'd say 1:10 is about average for the people I usually take photos with. I know that these two photos took about 10 attempts each until I was happy and moved onto try something else: http://www.flickr.com/photos/steffanharries/5478817464/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/steffanharries/5490658752/" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:44:05.337" UserId="4625" />
  <row Id="15654" PostId="10629" Text="And &quot;how many photos per great one&quot; is not a measure of anything meaningful - especially without the context of the type of photography.  The ratios of a good street photographer, good sports photograph, and landscape photographer would vary wildly I would imagine." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:44:08.333" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15655" PostId="10630" Text="Robert - I interpreted that to be 1 in 10 worth self-publishing, which is a really subjective threshold, not to mention one that's likely to change over time.  In fact, I think it might make sense to look at &quot;degrees of goodness&quot; here, where some photos get tossed right away, others get a second look, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:46:24.220" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="15656" PostId="10630" Text="@Bendihossan: Wow that's a nice shot of the Clifton suspension bridge. It reminded me of the 9 months I used to live (and work) in Bristol." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:46:44.577" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15657" PostId="10630" Text="Thanks, Robert! It was taken at the end of a day trip to Bristol. Definitely made the 4 hour drive worthwhile :)" CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:48:40.683" UserId="4625" />
  <row Id="15658" PostId="10596" Text="Try out Shotwell, I think you will be pleasantly surprised." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:52:03.783" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15659" PostId="10629" Score="1" Text="Guess I'm not allowed to answer ;) but I am working to deliberately reduce that ratio by learning when not to shoot and pre-visualizing more. I am now down to 1:8 (from 1:10 a the start of last year) keepers and from those 1:10 sellable images." CreationDate="2011-04-06T17:52:43.547" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15660" PostId="10629" Score="1" Text="@Itai: You're insight is valuable just as well even though you're a pro." CreationDate="2011-04-06T18:10:27.670" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15661" PostId="10626" Score="2" Text="@John Isaacks: Yes, certainly. You can put your eye closer to the screen, making the corners (and status display) easier to see, and blocking more stray light. " CreationDate="2011-04-06T18:19:36.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15662" PostId="10632" Text="I'm not sure of the whole technical term, but there's something about &quot;eyepoint&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-04-06T18:20:39.690" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15663" PostId="10633" Score="1" Text="Can you post or link a few examples of what you don't like that you shot?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T18:35:55.413" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15664" PostId="10634" Score="2" Text="I'm not sure this is pertinent for water drop photography - its typically fine to use flash to capture the exposure which doesn't suffer the problems you post.  Technically you're correct, I just think its unnecessary here. " CreationDate="2011-04-06T18:49:37.207" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15665" PostId="10634" Text="I agree with rfusca. While your answer is technically quite correct, it is not pertinent to the question. A _lot_ of quite excellent water-droplet photos have been taken with SLRs using correct technique." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:15:54.923" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15666" PostId="10636" Text="Added another one that I really dislike... can you add a comment about the last one as well." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:18:39.320" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15667" PostId="10636" Text="@ I like your remark about the second photo. It's a wall at Juliet's home (from Romeo &amp; Juliet). People've written all over the place. I've also made a photo of a girl writing on the wall. And I've taken the photo through the fence which comes out blurred. But the girl is writing on the wall... Anyway. It's true I liked that one better. I liked this one that you commented on because of pattern/texture and warm colour." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:21:19.193" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15668" PostId="10638" Text="+1 for the goal in mind. This could keep direction so I don't get distracted and nervously trying to find *something*." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:25:57.117" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15669" PostId="10635" Text="Give up on what? Deleting? Or shooting? Or trying to succeed? I suppose the latter..." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:27:02.903" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15670" PostId="10636" Text="@Robert Koritnik - Posted about the new one." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:29:10.120" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15671" PostId="10635" Score="2" Text="Usually when I give up the idea of something I'll keep at least a couple of the shots and then move onto shooting something else. It's good to keep at least a few shots even if they're a failed attempt just as a mark of reference to try it again if the opportunity arrises." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:29:46.157" UserId="4625" />
  <row Id="15672" PostId="10636" Text="I wish I could vote you up several times. You've just proved me right when I say they're plain dull. At least you've told me why. I hope I'll find out reasons of others as well. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:30:32.997" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15673" PostId="10633" Text="It may be that photo is downsized so much on the web here, but the horse and carriage looks a bit out of focus to me." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:32:21.537" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15674" PostId="10633" Score="1" Text="Great question, I just came home from a trip and found out my pictures very boring, even though I made an effort to find a different point of view for my subjects :(" CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:37:39.623" UserId="741" />
  <row Id="15675" PostId="10636" Text="I think the mask photo would have benefited more from a change of lighting than anything else -- a reflector (a 12&quot;/30cm collapsible takes up less room than anyone can argue about trying to save) or maybe the slightest blip from an off-camera flash, just to pick out the foreground mask, give it some dimensionality, and separate it from the more flatly-lit (and, now, darker by comparison) background gaggle. You keep the context, but add interest." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:39:46.893" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15676" PostId="10639" Text="That's a nice insight. Thanks Dave." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:40:31.930" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15677" PostId="10570" Text="@Nick: minor correction, the Canon EF-S Macro is 60mm, not 65mm." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:45:29.623" UserId="130" />
  <row Id="15678" PostId="10636" Text="@Stan Rogers - Definitely agree 100% and even thought some additional lighting would help - I just didn't think that was as viable given the fact that he was wandering around Verona.  Your point about reflector space is great though!" CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:48:07.757" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15680" PostId="8753" Score="1" Text="I believe that both Nikon and Canon had to temporarily shut down their factories in Japan due to the earthquake and tsunami. I don't know any further details, but I'm sure it has impacted their production of products." CreationDate="2011-04-06T19:55:09.427" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="15681" PostId="4923" Text="Don't worry about it -- you won't see a photoless bride, ever. You'll see a firey beast with fangs and claws, and you'll only see that for the brief time it takes for your body to lose consciousness. (Worst moment ever? Paying more than twice what I was going to be paid to print large custom-balanced Cibachromes because I'd left a roll of tungsten slide film in my camera bag among the VPS. Of course, all of the outdoor group formals were on that roll -- it's a quantum thing I can't quite wrap my head around, but the equation is elegant.)" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:00:09.113" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15682" PostId="10633" Text="This isn't a direct answer, but a good portion of  Michael Freeman's _The Photographer's Mind_ is about this topic. Highly recommended. http://www.focalpress.com/books/photography/the_photographer39s_mind.aspx" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:11:29.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15683" PostId="10636" Text="@Stan Rogers, @rfusca: I tried lightning up the subject (+0.5) and darkening background (-0,5) in post process. Added some *bump* and some *shadow* on the subject itself. Now you be the judge." CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:15:24.800" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15684" PostId="10632" Text="+1 good info..." CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:20:58.767" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15685" PostId="10633" Text="@rfusca: They are. It was very late afternoon (you can see by the tone) and the carriage was moving... And I was shooting away. It is blurry. One more reason for me to dislike it. :) But good observation." CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:24:52.317" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15686" PostId="10637" Text="Sounds good to me, I'll give it a try. I like a simple solution :-)(" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:28:26.467" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="15687" PostId="8503" Text="Thanks for this link. I too use optical illusions to learn to know when my eyesight is being deceived. Extremely valuable when doing architectural photography or when having to decide what white-balance to use, when my color-memory doesn't jive with what the camera tells me. Here's another link with interactive illusions so you can adjust their parameters to tell just when your own senses might be fooled. http://lite.bu.edu/vision-flash10/applets/lite/lite/lite.html" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:32:00.537" UserId="4595" />
  <row Id="15688" PostId="10636" Text="@Stan Rogers, @rfusca: What I was trying to say was: check the additional quickly edited photo (with original underneath) in my question to see the difference." CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:34:41.423" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15689" PostId="10632" Score="2" Text="It's called &quot;eye relief&quot;, I believe. Your typical tunnel-vision, crop-sensor DSLR isn't so bad; on a full-frame camera or a Leica-type rangefinder using glasses can be a real pain." CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:39:21.573" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15690" PostId="10644" Text="Have you checked with Kata? http://www.kata-bags.com/contact2.asp" CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:48:49.183" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15691" PostId="10644" Text="@mattdm I sent them an email asking the same question. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-06T20:53:10.237" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15692" PostId="10596" Text="I updated to the latest Shotwell, and it indeed now covers RAW files as well. That will probably be my choice if nothing else shows up. Another possibility is doing it manually based on exiv2 output, it will take some time however to write it." CreationDate="2011-04-06T21:13:38.970" UserId="4613" />
  <row Id="15693" PostId="10623" Text="That does only split out the NEF, I prefer if it is possible in one step. It is however part of the toolkit, thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-06T21:14:25.850" UserId="4613" />
  <row Id="15694" PostId="10629" Score="2" Text="I do have to agree that this question is highly subjective, on multiple levels. For one, the rate of keepers is going to change depending on skill level, personal preference, subject matter, time of day, available lighting, equipment used, etc. etc. It is so broad that it is very difficult to answer in any useful fashion. I think there **may** be a useful question under here somewhere, but I'm not sure that &quot;randomly taking pictures on the street, having no keepers&quot; is really a good basis for the question. Shooting from the hip is going to drastically affect keeper count as well." CreationDate="2011-04-06T22:02:00.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15695" PostId="9349" Text="Any suggestions about cheep lenses for portrait photography?" CreationDate="2011-04-06T22:13:08.620" UserId="4059" />
  <row Id="15696" PostId="10614" Text="@mattdm I believe autofocus occurs during step 1." CreationDate="2011-04-06T22:28:06.043" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15697" PostId="10622" Text="White balance seems possible. I'm pretty sure focus and metering happens during step 1, though. I don't know why white balance couldn't also be done during step 1." CreationDate="2011-04-06T22:36:10.980" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15698" PostId="10622" Text="@Evan - That depends on how your camera is configured. By default most Nikon DSLRs meters on shutter-fully-down but you can change that to be on the half-press. Focus can also be done at different points depending on the mode." CreationDate="2011-04-06T23:35:21.603" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15699" PostId="8138" Text="Great cheap lens.  Also note that its a fisheye on full-frame so resolution loss is lower than normal.  " CreationDate="2011-04-07T00:14:18.773" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="15700" PostId="7542" Text="Could you summarize?" CreationDate="2011-04-07T00:37:57.733" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15702" PostId="10583" Score="4" Text="Despite your comment that &quot;none of those explanations are true&quot;, other answers actually cover this already." CreationDate="2011-04-07T00:46:28.090" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15709" PostId="10618" Text="@ElendilTheTall It sounded odd to me too; hence the question." CreationDate="2011-04-07T01:43:04.803" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15710" PostId="10647" Text="[citation needed]. I've never heard of either a flash duration or a shutter speed of a quarter-millionth of a second." CreationDate="2011-04-07T01:46:53.410" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15711" PostId="7449" Text="@jrista: ring flashes wrap the flash reflector in a ring around the lens; there's also a thing where there's a that attaches to the lens and holds two small flashes. Nikon's &quot;R1&quot;, for example. http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Flashes/4804/R1-Wireless-Close-Up-Speedlight-System.html" CreationDate="2011-04-07T01:49:47.793" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15713" PostId="7449" Text="@mattdm: Canon has something similar, however I was thinking more of the Canon Speedlight MR-14EX Macro. That is often called the &quot;Ring Light&quot; or &quot;Ring Flash&quot;, at least amongst some of the people who I know do a lot of insect macro photography. I believe it is an actual flash built right into the ring that clips right onto the lens's lens hood mount." CreationDate="2011-04-07T02:04:37.457" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15715" PostId="7449" Text="@jrista: yeah, that one _is_ a ring flash. Not trying to argue, just to clarify that there are two different types. Ring flashes are also used outside of macro; they apparently go through phases of popularity in fashion photography, for example." CreationDate="2011-04-07T02:08:31.777" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15716" PostId="8749" Text="Note that any AF-S lens will work on any camera without a built in focus motor. AF-S lenses have the focus motor built in. Just FYI." CreationDate="2011-04-06T02:54:45.693" UserId="4622" />
  <row Id="15717" PostId="8749" Text="It is an amazing lens, no wonder it is out of stock. I would backorder it and wait, it is a very good lens for the money. Not sure, if anything else provides the versatility and quality of this one for the money and auto focus on D3000." CreationDate="2011-04-07T02:32:59.940" UserId="4599" />
  <row Id="15718" PostId="10647" Text="The numbers come from here: http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures. The ¹⁄₂₂₄,₀₀₀th claim comes with the following footnote..." CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:08:25.260" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15719" PostId="10647" Text="&quot;... Later tests, however at f/8 and with full flash, show a 6-degree rotation on a dremel disk turning at 33,000rpm. A quick calculation shows 1/32,520 for the shutter time. At minimal flash, the disk is rotated by just 0.9 degrees, which means a 1/224,000 shutter/flash time. Someone might want to verify these values some time soon, as they look pretty extreme.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:08:44.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15721" PostId="10652" Text="+1 - At first I was thinking a star filter, but I think you have it. The points on the star line up with the number of aperture blades in the lens used for the shot." CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:21:23.413" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15722" PostId="10655" Text="It's probably not best to use star filters in a landscape/cityscape scenario like linked though, right?  Typically you use smaller apertures for increased DOF in these cases, but filters that cause different bokeh shapes (which is what this is really, right?) require fairly large apertures." CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:33:15.210" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15723" PostId="10586" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: actually you didn't mention that in the question this time around." CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:36:04.153" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15724" PostId="10647" Score="1" Text="	&#xA;This links to a comment saying he was observing a dremel disk which is a: extremely unpredictable and not at all guaranteed to be spinning at a precise speed and b: how does he know it didn't spin around more than once?" CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:39:51.930" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15725" PostId="10655" Score="1" Text="@rfusca - No, this isn't a false aperture over the front of the lens, so it's not quite the same as shaped bokeh. In this case, it's either a grating in the filter or prisms that cause the effect, not the aperture shape." CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:47:30.747" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15727" PostId="10572" Text="It looks like the Cam4you software is a little bit outdated, at least from the officially supported cameras." CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:53:43.640" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15728" PostId="10655" Text="Ah, gotcha.  - +1" CreationDate="2011-04-07T03:54:57.580" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15729" PostId="10652" Text="The number of star points is determined by the number of blades the lens has. I will experiment with opening up and closing down the aperture to see its effects on the starbursts. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:03:41.490" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="15730" PostId="10646" Score="2" Text="I'd like to vote this one up, but, really, _despise_? Even with the smiley face, the hostile attitude brings so many of your answers down. " CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:06:39.923" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15731" PostId="10602" Text="Hi Tim, and welcome to Photo-SE. I would like to encourage you to provide some more details in your answer. I think the recommendation to leave the tripod at home is good advice, but could you clarify the bit about shutter speed more? I think the minimal shutter speed necessary to avoid camera shake is dependent on the lens. If you could provide more information about the lenses you use to achieve those shutter speeds, that would be useful to readers." CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:18:51.130" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15732" PostId="10647" Text="@rfusca: I assume the measurement is from the start to end of a blurred marker on a spinning disk, ruling out &quot;b&quot; as a problem. But &quot;a&quot; is a concern. As noted in the quote, we're not the only ones who are skeptical." CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:24:21.510" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15733" PostId="10642" Text="nice, this bag looks like it will probably fit my need " CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:39:47.557" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="15734" PostId="10647" Text="@mattdm - i not sure what you mean about about a blurred marker such that it would prevent b.  Seems to me like it'd be difficult to tell if it went around 360.9 degrees - but I may not be visualizing correctly." CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:41:10.753" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15735" PostId="10585" Text="Since I'm using Canon 5DmkIIs (as called out in the question) this won't do me a lot of good. Thanks, though!" CreationDate="2011-04-07T04:50:40.607" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="15737" PostId="10647" Text="@rfusca: They just measured the blurred arcs of brighter materials in the cutting disc. If it had gone around 360+ degrees, the arcs would have been full circles, not just little arcs. I am not sure how they go from a 0.9 degree arc to a shutter or flash speed of 1/224,000. Seems like some oddball extrapolation to me, and some hard facts about the actual rotational speed, the actual electronic shutter speed, and the exact pulse time and power of the flash would need to be involved." CreationDate="2011-04-07T05:17:15.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15738" PostId="10622" Text="Exactly the same process happens when I'm in manual focus, manual shutter/ISO/aperture, and manual, 5000K white balance. Active D-lighting is off." CreationDate="2011-04-07T05:43:15.973" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15739" PostId="10614" Text="@ElendilTheTall I can see it through the front of my lens." CreationDate="2011-04-07T05:44:12.553" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15740" PostId="8266" Text="Many cameras actually have a built-in LED or incandescent bulb for autofocus assist, which avoids the obnoxious seizure-inducing quickly repeating strobe." CreationDate="2011-04-07T05:55:11.483" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15741" PostId="7598" Text="GREAT shot! Really love the reflection...pretty amazing that the flash was able to entirely overpower the screen like that." CreationDate="2011-04-07T06:04:12.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15742" PostId="10651" Score="3" Text="@Matt Grum gives some good advice in a [closely related discussion.](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6605/why-do-light-sources-appear-as-stars-sometimes/6611#6611)" CreationDate="2011-04-07T06:12:20.283" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="15743" PostId="10652" Text="The number of blades in the aperture mechanism is important for the look of the &quot;star&quot;. An even number gives the same number of light-rays as blades; an odd number gives twice as many." CreationDate="2011-04-07T06:53:47.067" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15744" PostId="10652" Text="+1 for the reference" CreationDate="2011-04-07T07:06:59.813" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15745" PostId="10637" Text="A quick way of doing the same thing is to hold the AF lock button, which should be near your right thumb. " CreationDate="2011-04-07T07:26:22.310" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15746" PostId="10624" Text="Excellent advice, particularly the first two paragraphs; they tie in nicely with Craig's &quot;Photography is about telling a story&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-07T07:33:47.733" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="15747" PostId="10646" Score="1" Text="Research is about careful observation, data collection, testing of hypotheses and careful reasoning. It is never judged on its artistic merit, with the possible exception of the humanities. While I largely agree with your earlier observations they would be made more valuable if you gave supporting references." CreationDate="2011-04-07T08:07:28.287" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15748" PostId="7425" Text="Thomas Shahan is simply marvellous" CreationDate="2011-04-07T08:11:09.857" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15749" PostId="10570" Text="@Hamish: thanks - corrected." CreationDate="2011-04-07T08:30:44.533" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="15750" PostId="9349" Text="@Aram Sahradyan: for Pentax you may consider DA 70mm f/2.4 Limited (≈550€), FA 50mm f/1.4 (≈480€), DA 40mm f/2.8 Limited (≈400€). I also like my Tamron 90mm f/2.8 Macro very much, but it is generally too long for indoor portraits. There are some more expensive options (DA 55 f/1.4 SDM, FA 43 f/1.9 Limited, FA 77 f/1.8 Limited), some zoom lenses may be suitable too. Or you may choose to buy some older manual-focus lens, which are cheaper but less convenient." CreationDate="2011-04-07T08:50:31.397" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="15751" PostId="10665" Text="but yesterday i go to camera shop, the shopmen attached on that nikon original 52 mm uv filter....how it is?" CreationDate="2011-04-07T09:29:08.103" UserId="4640" />
  <row Id="15752" PostId="10665" Score="2" Text="Looking around in a little more depth, it seems a 52mm filter can be screwed on, but further 'into' the lens: if you look at the lens head-on, there are a series of concentric plastic rings around the outside, before you get to the glass proper. A 52mm filter can apparently fit into those somewhere. However, I suspect that there will be some vignetting at wide angles (i.e. when you have zoomed right back). Go back to the shop, get the guy to fit the 52mm filter and then use the camera at it's widest angle setting. Check you can't see the edges of the filter at the edge of the image." CreationDate="2011-04-07T10:03:47.640" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15753" PostId="10647" Score="1" Text="The actual flash duration is not outside of the realm of possibility -- Harold Edgerton built an entire career on that sort of exposure, after all. It's even possible that real-time metering for durations that short can occur (a luxury Edgerton didn't have); a nanosecond is a lifetime in modern electronics. But &quot;actual shutter speeds&quot; of 1/40000s (or 1/600000s) are all-electronic, not mechanical, shutters, and it seems that it's the CCD shutter strobe and not the camera flash that is being controlled in these CHDK examples." CreationDate="2011-04-07T10:14:28.613" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15754" PostId="8486" Text="1/500s is actually pretty old-school and slow for leaf shutters these days. 1/800s is pretty much &quot;standard&quot; in the MF world, and the Schneider LS lenses (for the Mamiya/Phase One 645-format line) go to 1/1600s. But for controlling ambient light, what's wrong with the old standby technique of using ND filters?" CreationDate="2011-04-07T10:19:50.327" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15755" PostId="10636" Text="@Robert: *much* better, but I think it could go a bit further. Still, that's the kind of thing that makes the difference between a keeper and &quot;meh&quot; -- using the tricks of photography to lead the viewer to see what *you* saw in the subject rather than what's objectively there. Sometimes it's light, sometimes focus, and sometimes color -- and sometimes there's work to do in post if you can't carry a big bag 'o' tricks with you in real life." CreationDate="2011-04-07T10:49:24.697" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15756" PostId="10664" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/are-there-any-downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter, &quot;Are there any downsides to using a UV filter?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-07T11:41:58.710" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15757" PostId="8486" Text="@Stan thanks I've updated my answer. Not sure if the second part of your question was rhetorical, but the problem with using ND filters to control abient is a loss if flash power, being able to sync up to 1/1600s compared to 1/250s potentially  gives you 6 times the flash to abient ratio (though in practice you'll get around 4x due to clipping the tail of the flash pulse). That's why high speed sync is so desirable! " CreationDate="2011-04-07T11:42:08.563" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15758" PostId="10647" Text="It is pretty cool that CHDK can be used with cheap hardware to get very short electronic shutter speeds. I'm just skeptical of that particular high number, _based on_ the skepticism in the reference for it." CreationDate="2011-04-07T11:45:06.433" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15759" PostId="10602" Text="@TimK — sorry, I didn't mean to come across as rude there. Welcome to the site, and yeah, as @jrista says, more detail would be helpful, particularly on your technique for taking shake-free pictures at those speeds." CreationDate="2011-04-07T11:53:39.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15760" PostId="8486" Text="True enough, but doubling-up (or even quadrupling-up) on the flash guns is a little more cost-effective for a 35mm-format (or APS-C-format) photographer than stepping up to MF (have you priced those things lately? *Ouch!!*). That's why I went Quantum when I was shooting pro -- I could use ND filters to bring down the ambient and still shoot at X-sync (which was a mere 1/90s on all but my FM2 35mm bodies and 1/400s on my RZ67). Absolute (flash) power corrupts absolutely." CreationDate="2011-04-07T12:02:34.550" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15761" PostId="10636" Text="@rfusca, you nailed it with &quot;story&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-07T13:02:31.713" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="15762" PostId="10633" Score="1" Text="Awesome question, @Robert.  It's fantastic to see someone pushing himself artistically in stead of worrying about (not) having gear.  Really refreshing.  You have inspired me to do the same.  Thank you." CreationDate="2011-04-07T13:04:20.497" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="15764" PostId="10666" Text="@John - The 3N1-33 is indeed a big bag, but not really &quot;gigantic&quot;. If you are already willing to carry a big backpack (the -22 isn't a small one), then the difference might not be that great. However, if this is the *only* equipment that you will carry, then it definitely an overkill. If not, or if thinking about &quot;a place to grow&quot;, then the -33 is a good choice." CreationDate="2011-04-07T13:49:54.347" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15765" PostId="10666" Text="I use the -33 to carry my 7D, 70-200/2.8, 10-22, 28-135, 50/1.4, 580EXII, some accessories in the top compartment, and the 15.4&quot; laptop, when needed." CreationDate="2011-04-07T13:51:38.433" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15766" PostId="10671" Text="Actually, these are the brands I know of that makes plates and other stuff for the Arca-Swiss system. RRS and Kirk do make tripod heads, I don't know about Novoflex but a quick-release plate can easily be mounted to most tripod heads anyway." CreationDate="2011-04-07T14:11:14.197" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15767" PostId="166" Text="Large maximum aperture still helps in focusing." CreationDate="2011-04-07T14:21:12.797" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="15768" PostId="10671" Text="And, just to point out: I don't know if Novoflex plates are too small, or if RRS quick-releases are too big, I'm just saying that mix&amp;match may not be a good idea!" CreationDate="2011-04-07T14:25:35.160" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15769" PostId="10669" Score="2" Text="Hi ruffp. Welcome to the site! By convention around here, there's no need to surround your question with greetings — just start asking away. It's a question/answer site, so it's not rude. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-07T14:29:58.693" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15771" PostId="10666" Text="@ysap thanks for the info :)" CreationDate="2011-04-07T15:14:40.717" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15772" PostId="10674" Text="That bag is also a lot less expensive then the Kata. I wonder, can you wear it as a backpack? Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-07T15:15:33.680" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15773" PostId="10646" Text="I decided to upvote inspite of @mattdm's justified point, due to the good ideas otherwise." CreationDate="2011-04-07T15:20:25.157" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15774" PostId="10674" Text="It is usually worn across the shoulder, gives you immediate access to your camera and keeps it where you can see it. They can also be worn as belt-packs since they have a loop to pass your belt through. If you go with the 'Pro' version, it comes with a harness that is meant to be worn in front, maybe you can *try* as a backpack if you truly want. See: http://products.lowepro.com/product/Toploader-Pro-70-AW,2130,8.htm and click on view 7 &amp; 8." CreationDate="2011-04-07T15:33:31.800" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15775" PostId="10642" Text="Glad it helped. I hear that many pro-photographers here use it." CreationDate="2011-04-07T15:58:05.717" UserId="4599" />
  <row Id="15777" PostId="10548" Text="This is cool. And the second link you provide features a device for taking lightning shots _without_ needing CHDK (or, more to the point, a CHDK-capable camera)." CreationDate="2011-04-07T16:10:51.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15778" PostId="10671" Text="I've used Arca-swiss/RRS/Acratech/Kirk plates on Arca-swiss/RRS/Acratech/Kirk heads w/no problems.  In the circles i move in Really Right Stuff and Kirk are the two big brands." CreationDate="2011-04-07T17:13:54.560" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="15779" PostId="9008" Score="1" Text="The 2.7-meter telescope at McDonald Observatory has bullet holes in the primary mirror, which have been painted black to reduce scattered light. The optical quality is essentially unaffected. http://www.astr.ua.edu/keel/telescopes/mcdonald.html" CreationDate="2011-04-07T18:01:21.593" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="15780" PostId="10671" Text="I have RRS and Kirk plates that work just great on my Markins Q10." CreationDate="2011-04-07T21:13:05.533" UserId="2155" />
  <row Id="15782" PostId="10674" Text="Thanks, I ordered th 55, I think it will make a good started bag, then I can upgrade to the kata 33 later if needed." CreationDate="2011-04-07T21:40:31.060" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="15785" PostId="4445" Score="2" Text="Marc's work is absolutely amazing." CreationDate="2011-04-07T23:01:24.917" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="15786" PostId="10671" Text="It may very well be that Novoflex is the odd one out... I don't know!" CreationDate="2011-04-07T23:07:42.437" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15787" PostId="10683" Score="1" Text="Just as an aside here, there is one (count 'em, one) camera on the market right now that would give you what the printer wants straight out of the machine. It costs $50,000 and has been on the market for almost two months (!) now. Printers really need to get with the program -- they're not always going to be dealing with design professionals who know how to effectively up-rez an image, and they'd be in a better position to know when line-based (fractal, wavelet) or tone-based scaling is more appropriate for an image than the consumers they serve." CreationDate="2011-04-08T01:48:27.963" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15788" PostId="10681" Score="1" Text="See this: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer/1723#1723. It will explain how to go from image pixel size to printer resolution (PPI), as well as explain the difference between PPI and DPI." CreationDate="2011-04-08T01:59:29.423" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15789" PostId="10681" Score="1" Text="Also see this for a simpler explanation of image size to printer size conversion: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/456/image-size-vs-print-size/461#461" CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:01:09.220" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15790" PostId="10683" Text="@Stan: what camera is that? The highest resolution I knew of was the Leaf Aptus-II 12 (and 12R), which is *close*, but just short of this resolution." CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:02:34.173" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15791" PostId="10682" Text="The value of 72 is actually mandated by the EXIF standard. Who lets you change it?" CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:13:25.427" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="15792" PostId="4445" Score="1" Text="Marc Adamus rather looks a lot like the Dave Hill of landscape. Some pretty stunning shots there." CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:39:03.010" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15793" PostId="10685" Text="I have since purchased a 50mm 1.4 and a 70-300mm.  The 50 lives on my camera." CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:47:25.573" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="15794" PostId="10565" Text="I for one gave you an upvote anyway, cos I like his site.  I think a lot of people miss the humor in his statements.  He's a huge fan of using exaggeration.  When he says you should throw away your $1500 lens because some $120 lens can do better, those types of things should not necessarily be taken literally.  Obviously he wouldn't throw away that lens.  Behind the exaggeration he always has a point somewhere.  For instance, maybe the $1500 lens is decent, but just not worth paying that much more for in his opinion, so he made some fun of how he'd throw it out for a much cheaper one." CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:49:07.953" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="15795" PostId="10685" Text="Ah.. Too late :) Do post in a few months about which lens you like/use most and for what. Thanks.  " CreationDate="2011-04-08T02:58:21.303" UserId="4599" />
  <row Id="15796" PostId="10683" Text="@Jerry: It's a Phase One/Leaf alright (same company with two different brands now). I believe the Leaf variant is called the Aptus-II 14 (and don't ask me what the 14 is supposed to mean) or it could be an Aptus-III these days; the one with Phase One badge is called IQ180 (that's Image Quality 1, 80 megapixel). Beyond gorgeous at ISO 50, and complete with an iOS-like touchy-swipy screen that will let you chimp shamelessly without ever actually taking a picture. Note: I may be willing to perform illegal, an *am* willing to perform immoral, acts in return for this camera." CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:06:22.597" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15797" PostId="10682" Text="@Mark - I did not know that! Why? The Olympus E-PL2 for example lets you change it between 1 and 9999 DPI or Auto. I've seen it in other cameras too, but don't remember which ones. It never had any importance to me. " CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:11:24.710" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15798" PostId="10682" Text="@Mark - As the OP mentioned, he has one camera that puts 480 DPI, I've seen other numbers (In the 72-360 range) with 72 being the most common." CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:14:25.767" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15799" PostId="10683" Text="Ah, I'd heard of the IQ 180, but not checked the exact specs. Most of what I've heard was people debating whether to buy one, or pick up a used P65+, since there are almost certain to be quite a few coming on the market as others pick up IQ-180's. The new LCD does seem to be a big drawing point..." CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:14:43.223" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15800" PostId="10683" Text="Frankly, I'd be willing to &quot;settle&quot; on a P65+ myself. I do wish, though, that Phase One would work on better back/body integration (like 'Blad, but maybe without the matching). Not that it's a huge concern -- I have to save up my allowance for a lot of weeks before it becomes really important to me." CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:20:08.957" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15801" PostId="10683" Text="@Stan: Yeah -- I can't really even think about anything like an IQ180, or even a used P65+ right now. I'd be pretty happy if I could manage to afford an Alpha 900!" CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:23:45.693" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15802" PostId="10682" Score="1" Text="The resolution field is intended for devices which have an actual physical resolution, such as scanners. The EXIF 2.2 spec is at http://www.exif.org/Exif2-2.PDF, have a look at page 19 (which is page 25 of the PDF)." CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:41:29.367" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="15803" PostId="10683" Text="I pretty much drool from the Pentax 645D upwards... Though that one, at least, is within the realm of possibility for me. The Phase 1 option is, well, stunning, but probably not likely to land in my hands without a lottery win." CreationDate="2011-04-08T03:52:25.197" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15805" PostId="89" Text="HDRs are not supposed to look fake. It's common that they do, because users tend to use invalid settings. but the whole point of HDR is to make image more even without too strong over/under exposures. The effect of *fakeness* is a side effect of predefined settings people tend to use." CreationDate="2011-04-08T06:48:08.783" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15806" PostId="7819" Text="What you've done here is not *actually* HDR. It's just combining two images into one by taking some part from one image and other from the other. HDR is different. But I agree that HDRs are not supposed to look fake and should always be strived to look what you've done with two images and masking. So +1 from me as well. You've done a great job with these two images." CreationDate="2011-04-08T06:51:03.930" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15807" PostId="3542" Text="I just wonder -- are you talking of hand baggage or checked baggage? " CreationDate="2011-04-08T06:53:35.583" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="15808" PostId="2024" Text="I will have to try this TuFuse some day because it really looks great and especially the way it work is the way that every HDR software should work. Unfortunately it doesn't have a user friendly interface." CreationDate="2011-04-08T06:54:58.233" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15809" PostId="10547" Text="Only one constraint for a newborn: No Flash!" CreationDate="2011-04-08T07:13:44.083" UserId="1296" />
  <row Id="15812" PostId="10690" Text="This is exactly what I didn't want to hear. I said what would you choose if you haven't had any of these brands before. And you refer to Nikon because you know it through and through. And I don't think that camera make matters. I's just like to buy best for the amount of money at stake (very much related to lenses afterwards as well. It's never just body)." CreationDate="2011-04-08T07:43:44.493" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15814" PostId="7819" Score="1" Text="@Robert I consider HDR is any technique which looks to extend the dynamic range by combining multiple exposures, regardless of the software/method used. But it's not like it's in the dictionary, and lots of people use the term to mean different things, such as tonemapping a single exposure to increase the &quot;punch&quot; of an image." CreationDate="2011-04-08T07:55:18.357" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15815" PostId="10690" Text="Look, I hope you hear something you want to hear. As far as I can see, it is very difficult to get a response from someone who takes a lot of pictures (not people who read extensively about makes and models of cameras) with a direct feature comparison between 2 makes and what makes one better than the other. Most people I know got started with one make, got used to it and stuck to it. In my opinion, if you were talking 2 models of the same make you may get a better response." CreationDate="2011-04-08T07:56:40.307" UserId="4599" />
  <row Id="15817" PostId="10690" Text="@Sujit. I agree. I actually hope someone that uses Canon as well as Nikon will be able to provide some input. Maybe they're not a pro but know much about the technical side of it. They may work in a photo specialist store so they' know lots about different makes." CreationDate="2011-04-08T08:21:01.170" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15818" PostId="10691" Text="Lenses are actually the main factor why I'm still very much considering Canon. I know lots about Canon lenses but **none** of Nikon... There are resources on the web, but it's still not the same..." CreationDate="2011-04-08T08:22:23.540" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15819" PostId="10691" Text="You may want to go with what you know, then -- and since you've already got some EOS experience (albeit with film) you may find the ergonomics familiar and comfortable -- but *do* pick up a camera and don't buy based on paper specs or expectations. (A late-'70s Lamborghini may be a hell of a car, but if you're taller than five-ten, you'd have to learn to smile with your kneecaps in your ears.)" CreationDate="2011-04-08T08:27:59.793" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15821" PostId="6602" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: What software did you use to create studio equipment positions images?" CreationDate="2011-04-08T09:10:27.897" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15822" PostId="6249" Text="Just noticed the comment. Actually, moiré becomes more of a problem at higher resolution, it's just that where you see the moiré changes. With the Phase One P65+, for instance, any white woven fabric can become a kaleidoscope of colour when it's in sharp focus (which is what makes the camera scary for portrait and fashion) -- the camera can actually run into aliasing trouble resolving individual threads within the yarn the fabric is woven from in close-ups. If you're careful, of course, you can work at distances/magnifications between &quot;yarn&quot; trouble and &quot;thread&quot; trouble." CreationDate="2011-04-08T09:44:17.057" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="15823" PostId="10682" Text="That doesn't appear to be a _mandate_, just a default. " CreationDate="2011-04-08T10:28:02.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15824" PostId="10688" Text="I know you've put a lot of work into trying to write a question that won't get closed. But I have to agree with @labnut below. We really can't give good, helpful answers here. It's just not the kind of thing that works on this site." CreationDate="2011-04-08T10:43:35.843" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15825" PostId="10688" Text="Part of the problem is that once one removes all argumentative aspects, the only question left is the camera specs, and it's unclear what exactly you'd like to know from here that isn't covered by just comparing feature lists. " CreationDate="2011-04-08T10:49:34.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15827" PostId="134" Text="And see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost for advice on what _level_ of camera to go with." CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:04:00.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15828" PostId="10688" Text="And, hopefully to be constructive and not just all negative on your post, I think the general question here http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/175/ might be helpful, and particularly the Mike Johnston article I link to in the comments there. (In short, I recognize in your question a pre-purchase paralysis I find myself often trapped in; the real answer is to buy the one you really, really want, and then not regret it.)" CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:09:39.623" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15829" PostId="187" Text="Pentax, Sony, and Olympus also offer TTL-wireless remote, but also not as sophisticated as Nikon's (which gives you control of relative flash levels of different flash groups from the camera body, for example)." CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:24:16.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15830" PostId="10698" Score="1" Text="Just a minor quibble — the wide end of 24-105mm is definitely with the &quot;normal&quot; range even on a 1.6× crop body. That doesn't mean your point about wider angle being desirable isn't well-taken." CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:28:35.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15831" PostId="10698" Text="24mm on crop is a slight wide; but a &quot;normal zoom&quot; ought to go from moderate wide-angle to moderate tele in my opinion. Somthing 28-70ish, on full frame. I don't feel that a 35-xx really cuts it, and 24-105 is tighter than that on crop." CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:39:40.520" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15832" PostId="10699" Score="1" Text="In the good old days, there were DOF scales on the focusing ring. Now get off my lawn!" CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:55:36.223" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="15833" PostId="10699" Score="7" Text="Also: Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6047/is-there-a-rule-of-thumb-that-i-can-use-to-calculate-dof-in-the-field" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:21:19.277" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="15834" PostId="10699" Score="1" Text="Definitely a duplicate, although I do like the clear simple wording on this one." CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:53:20.897" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15835" PostId="10698" Text="Sorry but I agree with Matt. That kind of statement about normality makes no sense." CreationDate="2011-04-08T13:17:38.283" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15836" PostId="10699" Text="It is worse than you think, the OVF DOF preview function is generally of little use because DOF depends on print size and the view you see through the viewfinder is rarely representative. The LCD with zooming in is better to check DOF." CreationDate="2011-04-08T13:21:45.127" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15837" PostId="6065" Score="1" Text="I think the DOF scale *does* reflect the asymmetry of the DOF, *because* the distance scale is non-linear. For example, with the lens set to the hyperfocal distance, the far extent is infinite while the near extent is finite--clearly asymmetric. At closer distances, N:F approaches, but does not reach, 1:1." CreationDate="2011-04-08T13:53:11.907" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="15838" PostId="89" Text="@Robert I agree, but there is a significant group that actually intends to over-process using an HDR technique to achieve a fake looking effect. In most cases, you want to avoid that, but it is an individual preference. Keep in mind that there have always been people who &quot;misuse&quot; a form of processing to achieve a different look, for examples just look at cross processing." CreationDate="2011-04-08T14:15:19.827" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="15839" PostId="10706" Score="2" Text="The &quot;shaped bokeh&quot; effect is a special case. Does http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2706/what-is-bokeh-really answer your question? " CreationDate="2011-04-08T14:40:41.703" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15840" PostId="10709" Text="Looks like I was searching for the wrong keywords! The first sentence of your answer is probably what I need. Looks like they go to 13-stops (41-step @ 1/2 - 4110) so I they do not offer precision and a wide range, it's either-or. I'll wait a bit more to see if someone finds a solution that covers more range more precisely." CreationDate="2011-04-08T17:21:24.253" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15841" PostId="10705" Text="Good point about paper. I guess chaining is not too hard but I'll look for a one-step solution a bit more. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-08T17:23:15.187" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15842" PostId="10709" Text="@Itai, as far as I know that is pretty much the state of art. After that the measurement procedure I described comes into its own." CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:11:34.673" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15843" PostId="10699" Score="2" Text="@whuber gave a pretty good reply at this link http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6047/is-there-a-rule-of-thumb-that-i-can-use-to-estimate-depth-of-field-while-shooti/6069#6069" CreationDate="2011-04-08T18:35:34.130" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15844" PostId="10691" Score="1" Text="IMO if you are making your first SLR purchase that the lenses are the thing to focus on. I consider the body to be almost disposable, it is replaced on an almost yearly basis. ISO performance, frames per second, sharpness of the sensor, etc... are very similar across Nikon and Canon, it is an arms race where either company may be in the lead at any given time. Within a year or two the other company will come out with a body that is better than the competitor's. The lenses I have cost more and bring more value than the body. Most important to your decision is; what do your friends shoot?" CreationDate="2011-04-08T19:32:40.000" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="15845" PostId="7542" Text="Hi Steve, and welcome to Photo-SE. Marks work looks great, and I think it brings some useful information to the discussion. One of our goals here is to become a useful trap for Google, where information that solidly answers questions can be found here, even if references are offline. Could you bring in a summary or copy of relevant information from Marks's site, so we have a copy here in case his information is offline in the future?" CreationDate="2011-04-08T19:35:44.200" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15846" PostId="6065" Text="I agree with @Matt that the DoF marks on autofocus lenses (if they appear at all) are useless.  On manual focus lenses, though, it's a different story, especially for hyperfocal distances.  In landscapes, for instance, you can just set the focus so infinity falls at the far DoF limit for the aperture and thereby maximize the amount of the scene that will be acceptably focused." CreationDate="2011-04-08T20:11:54.777" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="15847" PostId="10700" Text="The DoF calculators I have found online let you specify what is &quot;acceptably sharp&quot; by setting your circle of confusion.  For instance, see http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html .  As for estimation vs. seeing, I don't want to take up that debate again but only point out that with many cameras it is difficult or impossible to preview the DoF accurately on-camera.  Zooming in with LiveView on a 3&quot; viewfinder under a bright sun just doesn't work for me in terms of convenience, time, or accuracy." CreationDate="2011-04-08T20:21:06.923" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="15848" PostId="10700" Text="Yes you can chose the CoC if you know the right value for your camera. But you still have to guess the subject distance, and do a calculation in your head. I may live in a country where it's never sunny but I've always been able to shade the LCD sufficiently to tell what's in focus after shooting a photo, you can turn your back to the sun if necessary or invest in a loupe!" CreationDate="2011-04-08T21:25:07.480" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="15849" PostId="10700" Text="@Matt I'm glad that works so well for you.  BTW, the online apps provide values for a large number of cameras." CreationDate="2011-04-08T21:42:26.380" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="15850" PostId="10712" Text="That link does not seem to work. (`ipv6.google.com` seems suspiciously like it may only work on ipv6 equipped networks.)" CreationDate="2011-04-08T23:13:47.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15852" PostId="10712" Text="Your Hasselblad suggestion would certainly work but the size of the budget and the size of the box put it out of contention. The Apture product is very interesting but it lacks the HDMI interface which my camera needs and it has a three hour battery life." CreationDate="2011-04-09T08:08:15.393" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15853" PostId="10720" Text="This is the best explanation I could find from Canon of what exactly the cleaning does: &quot;Self Cleaning Sensor Unit is activated to automatically shake off the dust on the front of the sensor (CMOS).&quot; [Source](http://support-au.canon.com.au/contents/AU/EN/8201093300.html). Not overly helpful, is it?" CreationDate="2011-04-09T08:11:12.183" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15854" PostId="10716" Score="3" Text="In addition to this, there are colour profiles that define _how_ the RAW information is interpreted. Canon has &quot;official&quot; profiles - which are built-into your camera as Landscape, Portrait, Neutral etc. Adobe also has their own profiles for each RAW format. This is where much of the colour difference comes from." CreationDate="2011-04-09T09:05:19.970" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15855" PostId="10712" Score="2" Text="The T3i / 600D is the entry-level DSLR from Canon. It's basically a 550D with a tilt-LCD screen. Being entry level, it'll be reasonably priced." CreationDate="2011-04-09T09:07:08.783" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15856" PostId="332" Text="I'd go for the 70 - 300mm on a APS-C crop sensor (that is, an entry-level DSLR), because that will turn the 300mm end of the lens into a massive 450mm." CreationDate="2011-04-09T09:08:41.387" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15857" PostId="10717" Text="As for in-camera, essentially the camera makes a JPEG purely for display on the camera, applying whatever picture control settings are in effect to that JPEG, i.e. saturation, sharpening etc." CreationDate="2011-04-09T09:41:01.000" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="15858" PostId="10724" Text="Thanks, that is a useful recommendation." CreationDate="2011-04-09T10:12:24.147" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15859" PostId="10725" Text="Thank you for all the answers." CreationDate="2011-04-09T11:08:02.827" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15860" PostId="10720" Score="1" Text="My first DSLR had no anti-dust system and dust spots were an ongoing problem requiring regular cleaning. 16 months ago I bought an upgrade with anti dust coating on the sensor and the high frequency sensor shake on start up. Since then I have had no problems, my DSLR sensor has not required cleaning. From my experience it really does work. But this is not strictly relevant to your question since I use neither Nikon nor Canon." CreationDate="2011-04-09T12:24:33.137" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15861" PostId="10720" Text="This isn't just Canon/Nikon. When these systems first came out, tests showed that Olympus's was the only one that _actually worked_. Others have improved since then, though. Like @labnut, my first camera with this feature (a Pentax K100D) had constant dust problems. Since getting the Pentax K-7, though, it's no longer an issue, even though I change lenses much more often than I used to. " CreationDate="2011-04-09T12:42:48.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15862" PostId="10730" Text="Wait, (btw: thanks for the reply) . what is the AEC ? is there a way to lock it from being changed ? when I change the shutter speed, why is my exposure comensation still 0?" CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:19:13.420" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15863" PostId="10730" Text="and why is the iso also changing when i rotate the wheel ?" CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:21:36.573" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15864" PostId="10730" Text="BTW - welcome to the community." CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:28:44.947" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15865" PostId="10730" Text="Hi, thanks for the elaborate answer . but my question was different . Let me re-explain. I know that I can fix the expossure compansation using the +/- button and that will change my shutter speed. I think I did something different with my factory settings . cause now I can also move it by changing the shutter speed wheel . and then the AEC sign doesnt change and i dont know what was the original shutter speed was. now lets say i am stopping down after rotating the shutter wheel. Is the new  shutter compensated or not. I didnt do it through the AEC feature so is is not showing anywhere. 10x " CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:34:06.223" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15866" PostId="10730" Text="@stam - If I understand correctly, then this is exactly the case where you change one of the 2 variables (the speed), and the camera recalculates the 3rd (ISO) so the exposure remain constant. Is it that the ISO is going up when the speed gets higher? The original speed is not so important as long as you have the exposure you want. Of course, you have side effects of more/less noise or motion blur." CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:43:38.017" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15867" PostId="10730" Text="mmm.. But this makes it no diffrerent than the manual mode. I like to shoot with A mode. and I compensate through -/+ button . then I always see what has changed. but when I compensate through the shutter speed wheel I dont see a what I compensated and how much." CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:49:12.207" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15868" PostId="10728" Text="+1. These really aren't needed unless you are especially abusive to your equipment. (If they _were_, they'd come in the box.)" CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:54:27.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15869" PostId="10730" Text="@stam - that's b/c you are not compensating (the exposure, that is), you merely change the balance between the two free variables (to get a desired effect). It is actually very different from manual, where you have to manually set each of the variables. It is, however similar to the P or Auto modes (which is why it is called semi-auto mode)." CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:57:14.597" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15870" PostId="10730" Text="Well, thanks again for your explanation . but if i am on aperture mode and ichoose the aperture is want and then i rotate the shutter wheel , and it lets me choose shutter mode then it is as if i am on m mode. no?" CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:03:10.763" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15871" PostId="10730" Text="@stam - no, b/c the camera still changes the ISO accordingly. In M mode, all 3 parameters are set by the user." CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:14:45.327" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15872" PostId="10730" Text="Ok. you are tight about that. But I know that the camera determines the shutter speed by a certain algorithm (18% grey or something like that). and now i moved the shutter to be very fast. and now I set the apperture to a different value. and I still get a fast shutter. So I am back to my first practical question. how do i know what is the default value in the new aperture? I dont see any compensaqtion value other than 0. 10x for your time." CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:20:58.697" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15873" PostId="10730" Text="@stam - I believe that if you release the shutter button and depress it again (half press), the camera re-calculates the free exposure variables, this time with the new aperture value. Then, you'll see the default shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:26:17.043" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15874" PostId="10730" Text="nope. didnt work." CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:36:36.113" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15875" PostId="10730" Text="OK, let me understand the sequence of operations: 1. Set to A mode; 2. Set your aperture (say, 4.5); 3. Half-press, camera sets ISO 400 and Speed 1/1000; 4. Change speed using the &quot;other&quot; wheel (the one that does not change the exposure, whatever this is on a Nikon) so the speed changed to 1/500. You observe the ISO reduced to 200; 5. Change the Aperture to 3.5. You observe the same shutter of 1/500 but the ISO changed? 6. Now, you release the button and half-press it again (on the same exact subject) but the camera does not change the speed?" CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:48:37.497" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15876" PostId="2035" Text="I think this is an awesome book to read as the second book, once you have learned the basics of photography." CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:15:15.300" UserId="4559" />
  <row Id="15877" PostId="10730" Text="not exactly . 4) lets say I changed it to something more dramatically - 1/20. 5. change the aperture to 4.5 now it will be with shutter - 1/15. it keeps the delta. and drags it to the next aperture change. " CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:17:46.650" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15878" PostId="10730" Text="@stam - I am not sure I understand your last comment, but is it possible that by going down to 1/20 you have hit the minimum ISO level and hence have an over exposure? Can yo please post actual steps and numbers that you see? Remember to aim at the same subject throughout the process. Describe what are the actions you take and what is the reading of the 3 parameters after each step." CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:30:30.037" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15879" PostId="10728" Score="1" Text="Ok but are they changeable? Cause if they're not it's probably still good to have something on that can be changed? Or..." CreationDate="2011-04-09T15:50:10.637" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15880" PostId="10728" Text="Yes they are. A piece of Canon-branded plastic, fastened with double-sided tape of all things! Not very expensive either." CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:01:37.850" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15881" PostId="10731" Text="+1000 any serious photography book list should include this one." CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:15:37.433" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="15883" PostId="10735" Score="8" Text="that link is dead." CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:33:15.550" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="15884" PostId="7226" Text="I don't think the LED versus CCFL screens are an issue here. There are plenty of CCFL based screens (e.g. Dell's U2711, U3011; HP's ZR30w, etc) which are capable of reaching or exceeding Adobe's RGB gamut, and there are plenty of LED based screens (i.e. the panels used in Apple's laptops) which cannot produce the full gamut (Because one needs RGB (rather than White) LEDs to reach the full spectrum). Backlight is important, but if you're talking about gamut, then gamut is what you want to look at, not backlight technology." CreationDate="2011-04-09T18:58:32.357" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="15885" PostId="10743" Text="+1 -- Does that loss of resolution affect the image quality? Sure, you've got fewer pixels, but you're getting all 24 bits per pixel, rather than 8. (No, I don't work for foveon, I'm just trying to understand ;) )" CreationDate="2011-04-09T19:05:37.170" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="15886" PostId="10743" Text="True. It turns out that most people live better with color accuracy they get our of ~14MPix bayer-interpolated sensor, that true 24bit colors out of Foveon DSLR that has only 5Mpix resolution." CreationDate="2011-04-09T19:06:59.487" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="15887" PostId="10736" Score="1" Text="Good answer but I would not say *most*. It does depend on the lens as you said. Some manufacturers have been more systematic at making their lenses parfocal, so the percentage varies greatly by brand." CreationDate="2011-04-09T19:10:10.107" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15888" PostId="10744" Score="4" Text="It should be noted that the use of megapixels here cannot be used in direct comparison to megapixels of bayer-type sensors. While there may be 46 million distinct photo-sensitive elements in the sensor, the image produced is a 15 megapixel image. The benefits of Foveon are lower color moire and better color definition at each image pixel." CreationDate="2011-04-09T19:28:24.000" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15890" PostId="10743" Text="Also, demosaicing algorithms have gotten a lot better since the early days, which mitigates Foveon's advantage." CreationDate="2011-04-09T20:01:30.880" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="15892" PostId="10748" Text="This is yet another good reason to shoot raw. In this kind of situations, the red channel is usually clipped in the JPEG but not in the raw sensor data. You could simply slightly underexpose when developing the raw file, and this would recover all the details of the red flower." CreationDate="2011-04-09T20:10:03.947" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="15895" PostId="10729" Text="Welcome to the site, stam! There's no need to surround your for greetings — it's a Q/A site, so it's not rude to just jump right in and ask. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-09T20:35:48.653" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15896" PostId="10728" Text="@Staale where can you purchase replacements for the built-in screen replacements? Do you know the approximate cost? " CreationDate="2011-04-09T20:59:14.627" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="15897" PostId="10728" Score="2" Text="It's a standard Canon spare part... a camera shop ought to be able to round one up for you, or one can be ordered off the net. You may find this link interesting: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=922334 . Finding out the exact part number is the biggest problem I think." CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:03:24.713" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="15898" PostId="10751" Text="+1 to this. On my Pentax dSLRs, the &quot;Bright&quot; mode is also particularly prone to blowing out the red channel, and the Vivid mode even more so. I use Natural most of the time now, since I realized that the obvious flower case isn't the only time it happens." CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:23:19.457" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15899" PostId="10752" Score="1" Text="It does work well. The Fuji F300 EXR which uses the EXR sensor with phase-detection is the fastest focusing compact camera I have ever used: http://www.neocamera.com/review.php?id=75" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:29:52.693" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15900" PostId="10749" Score="1" Text="Canon G-series are only marginally better than most point-and-shoot cameras in terms of image quality, so recommend removing those from your answer. Same goes for the Nikon P7000 which you did not mention. There are a few similar models with have bright lenses (Olympus ZX-1, Canon S90/S95) that give then another incremental advantage. Still, large sensors of 4/3rds size or more are the only ones to compare with DSLRs." CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:34:43.030" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="15901" PostId="7970" Text="As of April 2011, Stack Exchange has been re-licensed CC-BY-SA 3.0, so, if proper attribution is given, the legal requirements are met. However, that doesn't change the fact that this particular Wikipedia text is very poor." CreationDate="2011-04-09T23:26:25.137" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15902" PostId="10745" Text="Early Sigma cameras used JPEG compression settings (subsampling) that didn't show their sensor to the best advantage, but they fixed this. I wish I could remember where I had seen a quite graphic demonstration of the problem." CreationDate="2011-04-09T23:45:01.657" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="15903" PostId="10746" Score="2" Text="Can you elaborate on &quot;turning off the flash is a pain&quot;? That's probably model-specific. It's not something I've found to be a problem on any dSLR I've used." CreationDate="2011-04-10T00:06:10.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15904" PostId="10749" Text="aren't these essentially high-end P&amp;S cameras reasonably fast, when contrast autofocusing? i agree, not as fast as phase detection, but still, day-to-day usage fast?" CreationDate="2011-04-10T01:33:08.603" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="15905" PostId="10727" Score="3" Text="+1 for the piercing detail, lol. " CreationDate="2011-04-10T01:52:35.140" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="15906" PostId="10749" Text="@JoséNunoFerreira: that's a bit hard to answer. They do focus faster than the low end cameras, but for pictures of children (for example) I'd consider them pretty marginal (at best). Then again, they can be a bit tough for many SLRs too..." CreationDate="2011-04-10T01:53:36.507" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15907" PostId="10750" Text="@Stan - I knew I should have read my manual, 2 books and other documentation better! Now, if only this would work in manual mode as its the only complaint I have with my D90. But that's what the 300s and higher models are for and look forward to my next purchase." CreationDate="2011-04-10T03:37:41.367" UserId="154" />
  <row Id="15908" PostId="10746" Text="@mattdm: Figured it out -- basically, when you scroll through flash settings, no flash is not available as a setting. But if you close the flash itself, then it won't open itself automatically while in manual mode." CreationDate="2011-04-10T05:44:27.957" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="15909" PostId="10743" Text="Foveon processing has also gotten better, which mitigates some bayer advantages.  And Bayer systems are pretty well understood at this point where Foveon algorithms are not." CreationDate="2011-04-10T06:28:44.083" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15910" PostId="10745" Text="Note that the phase-shifting approach is really only practical for still subjects.  There is a lot of value in gathering all data at once." CreationDate="2011-04-10T06:29:38.717" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15911" PostId="10743" Score="1" Text="Come to think of it, your statement about counting pixels seems kind of backwards.  A 15 MP bayer camera has exactly one photosite (either red, green, or blue) at any location, yet counts a total of three of them at each location (the combination of red, green, blue) to give you that 15MP output number.  You seem to be saying Foveon is misleading you while not acknowledging Bayer is doing the same thing from the other end, pretending they have 15MP of data when they really have less.  How much resolution has a 15MP bayer camera got when you put on a red filter?  3.75MP of data recorded." CreationDate="2011-04-10T06:56:05.177" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15912" PostId="10745" Text="@Kendall: yes, the sensor shifting approach has only limited application. It's worth noting, however, that their current top of the line has an 80 megapixel sensor, so resolution is *pretty* decent even without sensor shifting." CreationDate="2011-04-10T06:58:18.500" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15913" PostId="10744" Score="4" Text="It should be noted that bayer-type sensors also have no real relation from the MP ratings they use to the final output image, because MP gives you a photosite count, three of which are required for any one output pixel.  In addition any bayer sensor may have a different strength of AA filter which further impairs image clarity, while still producing the same pixel count in output.  Foveon sensors do not use AA filters." CreationDate="2011-04-10T06:58:50.497" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15914" PostId="10745" Score="1" Text="I don't really think it's relevant to compare a medium format body in any with a 35mm body, they would be used in wholly different ways anyway... I just wanted to note that while the sensor shifting is one way to potentially address the issue even for smaller cameras, that it has real drawbacks." CreationDate="2011-04-10T07:43:03.000" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15915" PostId="10745" Score="1" Text="Also of note is that relying heavily on the observed theory that green spatial resolution is more important than blue/red resolution, leads to the generation of images that appear sharper but are less accurate.  There is a tradeoff in any kind of compression of data, and throwing away 2/3 of the visible wavelengths for any given spatial location in an output image is most definitely a form of pre-image-compression not even the use of RAW formats can work around." CreationDate="2011-04-10T07:47:33.967" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15916" PostId="10746" Text="The Fuji X100 is a compact camera with retro styling that has an APS-C sensor giving it the low light and noise capabilities of DSLRs as well as their resolution. But auto-focusing is slower since it unavoidably uses contrast detection. If you have ever lusted for an affordable Leica this is the camera for you." CreationDate="2011-04-10T07:56:44.073" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15917" PostId="10719" Text="Indeed, stitching photos together is a great way to get high resolution photos. Tools like Hugin make it simple to stitch them together seamlessly." CreationDate="2011-04-10T08:17:28.807" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15918" PostId="10741" Text="Now this is an impressive job you've done. I'm not accepting it as the correct answer because you've conducted an empirical survey on dust removal improvement in technology but not directly answered my questions. Anyway. I would vote you up several times if I could of course. But I can easily see others that will vote you up as well surpassing accepted answer. Great job labnut. Thank you for this in-depth research." CreationDate="2011-04-10T08:28:00.493" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="15919" PostId="10719" Text="[Hugin](http://hugin.sourceforge.net/) is a great tool indeed!" CreationDate="2011-04-10T09:23:13.267" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="15920" PostId="10736" Score="1" Text="I would say that the _most common_ lenses - that is, kit lenses (such as the Canon 18-55mm f3.5 - 5.6) - are certainly not parfocal." CreationDate="2011-04-10T11:25:59.940" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15921" PostId="10728" Text="@Staale I know that my local camera shop was able to get out a huge stock list and get the specific part number of the 1000D eyepiece rubber when I needed a new one around 12 months ago, so it's not improbable that other Canon dealers will have a similar list." CreationDate="2011-04-10T11:28:09.190" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15922" PostId="10745" Score="4" Text="@Kendall: but calling it &quot;2/3rds&quot; is a little deceptive. Clearly, we're not recording all of the electromagnetic spectrum no matter what. So, focusing on percentage of the human vision color space covered seems much more realistic." CreationDate="2011-04-10T11:59:04.450" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15923" PostId="10756" Score="8" Text="Everything in photography is _also_ frequencies. Digital cameras take a sample of an analog signal. At that point, it doesn't really matter if the signal is sound or light. This answer seems to imply that the limit only applies to certain patterns in a scene, which isn't right." CreationDate="2011-04-10T12:22:24.610" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15924" PostId="10756" Text="OK, the above illustration was taken from DPReview's review of the Nikon D7000 which has a pixel size of 4928 x 3264. How did they use this to arrive at the Nyquist Limit on the above image?" CreationDate="2011-04-10T12:54:14.337" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15925" PostId="10741" Text="@Robert, thanks. Google is an effective research tool." CreationDate="2011-04-10T13:14:21.813" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15926" PostId="5116" Text="glad to be some use :)" CreationDate="2011-04-10T14:31:37.327" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="15927" PostId="10749" Text="@Jerry Coffin precisely. i'd go out on a limb and say that in most day to day situations, high end p&amp;s cameras don't lag far behind entry level dslrs (their price range is similar),focus speed-wise." CreationDate="2011-04-10T14:36:54.487" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="15928" PostId="10762" Score="2" Text="You should try it, I think you will be surprised how fast Manual Focus is with a little practice and a lens you are comfortable with." CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:23:24.400" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="15929" PostId="10762" Score="3" Text="Definitely. As long as you're not using one of those lens with really tiny focusing rings. Also this article might be of interest to you: http://erickimphotography.com/blog/2011/03/is-manual-focus-or-autofocus-better-for-street-photography/" CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:46:31.113" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="15930" PostId="10760" Score="1" Text="You might fnd this of interest: http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/primer/digitalimaging/concepts/quantumefficiency.html (nutshell answer is less sensitive to blue). Too much tech in it for weekend light reading for me. ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:12:42.520" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15932" PostId="10756" Score="2" Text="@mattdm: You are missing the point completely. Sound consists of waves that have a duration along the recording. Although light have different wave lengths, each photon only hits a single pixel on the sensor, so the Nyquist Limtit doesn't apply to the light frequencies at all. It only applies to photographs where you actually have a wave pattern that spans an area of pixels, and the frequency is the distance between waves in the pattern, so it has nothing to do with light frequencies." CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:19:40.143" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15933" PostId="10762" Text="@jon2512chua Very helpful link! Especially the video at the bottom :)" CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:21:29.520" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15934" PostId="10734" Text="Thank you everyone for the replies. " CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:25:50.720" UserId="1932" />
  <row Id="15935" PostId="10756" Score="1" Text="@labnut: They measure the resolution in the unit LPH, lines per hight, so the Nyquist Limit is equal to the height of the image in pixels; 3264 LPH. The scale shows LHP/100, so the Nyquist Limit is at 32.64 on the scale. Note that they are counting both black and white lines, while if you expressed it as a frequency, a black and white line would be a single wave length, and all the values would be half." CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:34:17.813" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15936" PostId="10764" Text="Can you tell me how the Leica Rangefinder AF works? I read something like making two lines meet... can you explain this to me in detail?" CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:36:18.997" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="15937" PostId="10758" Score="1" Text="Okay then; why didn't Canon or Nikon jump on it then? I'm sure it was pitched to them; they must have had some problem with it in order to reject it..." CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:36:37.733" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="15938" PostId="10756" Score="4" Text="It doesn't matter. The image is still an analog signal. The point is that _all_ photographs have a pattern that span an area of pixels. In fact, every photograph _is_ such a pattern, spanning all of the pixels. In some cases (as the ones you are talking about) you may see artifacts caused by the sampling. But in all cases, the resolution is limited. (A more interesting objection is that photosites are not points but actually cover an area; I have no idea how that factors in.)" CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:41:58.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15939" PostId="10756" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: You are still missing the point. The Nyquist Limit only applies if there is a wave pattern along a set of samples. If there is no wave pattern, the Nyquist Limit doesn't apply, and the resolution is simply the distance between the pixels." CreationDate="2011-04-10T16:54:06.150" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15940" PostId="10756" Score="3" Text="@Guffa, @mattdm, the light falling on the sensor is a wave pattern. The Nyquist limit applies because each photo site is a sample of the incident wave form. The Nyquist Limit says that we can only  reproduce a sampled waveform if the sampling frequency is &gt;= 1/2 the incident frequency. The number of photo sites determines the sampling frequency and therefore the Nyquist Limit." CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:17:06.550" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15941" PostId="10756" Score="5" Text="@Guffa, a digital image is a 2D wave pattern (really three, one for each color channel), not in terms of the frequency of light waves but in terms of alternating light and dark pixels that make up the image. The fact that light is itself a wave is not directly relevant to the use of the Nyquist–Shannon theorem for measuring sensor resolution." CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:38:55.750" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15942" PostId="10756" Text="@labnut: No, the light falling on the sensor are distinct waves, and doesn't have to be a pattern. The Nyquist Limit only applies if the picture actually resembles a horisontal or vertical wave pattern." CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:46:20.697" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15943" PostId="10295" Text="Okay, you guys are over my head on this one. I'm not trying to write a DVD encoder. Not interested. I'm using DVD Studio Pro and it seems to do the job. What I'm looking for is the math to punch into Photoshop to re-size the images so they look right on NTSC. In other words stretching them so when they hit the screen the resulting squish makes them look correct." CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:50:38.097" UserId="1451" />
  <row Id="15944" PostId="10756" Score="1" Text="@Sean: The image is only a wave pattern if the image actually resembles a wave pattern. If not, then it's just a pattern. You are right that the fact that light itself is a wave is not relevant, and if you read the conversation you will see that it's what I have been saying all along." CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:51:32.923" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15945" PostId="10756" Text="@Guffa, the Nyquist Limit applies to any waveform, no how complex its constituent frequencies. My use of the word 'pattern' is loose and should really read waveform." CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:59:49.307" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15946" PostId="10760" Score="2" Text="I find it ironic and rather amusing that Matt's own question shows up second in the search link in his own post. ;D" CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:30:41.447" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15947" PostId="10756" Score="3" Text="@Guffa: The analog image projected by a lens is indeed a wave pattern, and the full extent of wave theory can be applied to photographic images. When we talk about waves in terms of images, were not talking discrete light waves, but the wave nature of lighter and darker elements of a 2D image. In most simplistic terms, a maximally bright pixel is the peak of a wave, where as a minimally dark pixel is the trough of the wave, when only factoring in luminosity. The problem becomes more complex when you account for R, G, and B colors, but the concept remains the same." CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:38:59.850" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15948" PostId="10756" Text="@labnut, @jrista: Yes, an image is a wave pattern in the sense that it can contain wave forms, but an image can also consist of only non-wave patterns (which a sound recording can't). The Nyquist Limit only applies to the image components that are actually waves, and the limit is of course always there, even if there are no wave patterns to apply it to." CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:48:25.200" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15949" PostId="10756" Text="It should also be noted that the images used by DPReview are subject to the inaccuracies of their own. For one, they tend to be saved as jpegs, so the images themselves can be lossy. Second, the screen you view the images on can also affect the resolving limit of the line pairs in the image. Ironically, at least with RAW, the theoretical nyquist limit does not always seem to be a hard limit, which is probably due to the different wavelengths of red, green, and blue light and the distribution of RGB pixels in a sensor." CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:50:34.910" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15950" PostId="10756" Score="1" Text="@Guffa: I'm confused about these non-wave patterns your referring to. To my knowledge, an image can be treated entirely as a wave pattern, and I'm not understanding this non-wave pattern bit." CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:51:44.490" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15951" PostId="10756" Text="@All: Its probably best to continue in the Photography Tech Chat: http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/367/photography-tech-chat" CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:54:38.260" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15952" PostId="10756" Score="2" Text="Don't confuse a wavelet decomposition of your image with the wave nature of light. The wavelength/frequency the Nyquist theorem is referring to is *not* the wavelength/frequency of the electromagnetic wave that is light, but the wavelength of a repetitive pattern in your image." CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:55:32.063" UserId="2379" />
  <row Id="15953" PostId="10756" Text="@jrista: An image that is a solid gray color doesn't have any wave components." CreationDate="2011-04-10T18:57:54.790" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15954" PostId="10756" Score="1" Text="@Guffa: Sure it does, its just a wave interference patterns that produces an even tone. Just because you have a solid color image doesn't mean you can't decompose the image as a waveform. Check out this page: http://brain.cc.kogakuin.ac.jp/~kanamaru/WaveletJava/JavaWaveletImage-e.html" CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:00:57.210" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15955" PostId="10770" Score="3" Text="Superb answer! The part about under sampling is particularly useful." CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:12:03.333" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15956" PostId="10770" Score="1" Text="Thanks. I adapted it from a paper I wrote a few years ago for one of my electrical engineering classes." CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:16:00.053" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15957" PostId="10764" Score="1" Text="@eWolf - That would make an excellent question of it's own." CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:28:28.873" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15958" PostId="10765" Score="3" Text="Yeah, more on the background: manufacturers weight their chips in this way is because they're approximating the colour sensitivity distribution of the human eye: our eyes are about 50% as sensitive to red as to green, and about 20% as sensitive to blue. That's why colour-to-greyscale conversions are weighted the way they are, typically in the realm of (0.2989r + 0.5870g + 0.1140b)." CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:53:32.153" UserId="4672" />
  <row Id="15959" PostId="10770" Text="@Sean So sampling at the Nyquist rate completely determines the Fourier series expansion of any wave, is that correct?" CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:54:48.923" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="15960" PostId="10756" Text="@jrista: Yes, you can express anything as a wave, but that doesn't mean that it behaves as a wave. You can for example express a solid color as two phase inverted waves with a frequency that is higher than the Nyquist Limit, but that doesn't mean that the limit applies. The camera is still able to accurately record the image, eventhough it would not be able to accurately record any of the separate waves." CreationDate="2011-04-10T20:34:51.390" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15961" PostId="10772" Score="2" Text="I guess this begs the question...how exactly do we measure the resolution of a lens? I guess I always assumed that the medium used to measure lens MTF always had a higher limit than the lens itself." CreationDate="2011-04-10T20:46:02.270" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15962" PostId="10716" Text="Interesting, look's like I'm going to have to use the Canon converter for now. In my impression it gives much better results!" CreationDate="2011-04-10T20:48:00.527" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="15963" PostId="10770" Text="@Billare - Short answer: Yes. Long answer: For some waves (like a true square wave), the Nyquist rate is infinity, so you can't fully reconstruct it from a discrete signal; you can only approximate it. See: http://mathworld.wolfram.com/FourierSeriesSquareWave.html" CreationDate="2011-04-10T20:48:54.670" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15964" PostId="10766" Text="oh yeah, of course there's a trade off... but anyone using it understands that it's not general purpose, and when you've become tuned in to a system like that, I think you pretty intuitively know how it behaves and how to work with it. Not that I'm a massive advocate. Not sure what hyperfocus has to do with shutter speed btw ;p" CreationDate="2011-04-10T20:49:10.510" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="15965" PostId="10756" Text="I guess I would state that if you can express something as a wave, then while expressed as a wave it would exhibit the behaviors of a wave...or as is usually the case, as a series of waves of various frequency interfering with each other. That is pretty much the point with analyzing images in wave form, and I think thats the point everyone else was trying to make. I think Sean's answer sums it up nicely. " CreationDate="2011-04-10T20:53:14.960" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="15966" PostId="10756" Text="@jrista: Yes, expressing a non-wave component as waves is only a theoretical construct, it only behaves as waves in theory and has no practical relevance in this case." CreationDate="2011-04-10T21:01:20.160" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="15967" PostId="10764" Text="Rangefinders work such that you have two images overlaid; one of which shows (approximately) the framing of the shot, and the other is coupled to the focal distance, such that it shifts left and right and aligns with the first image when in focus. Might be worth asking as a separate question, or just searching the web..." CreationDate="2011-04-10T21:13:00.547" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="15968" PostId="10766" Score="1" Text="I've owned two Leicas (MP and an M8) and really dug rangefinder focusing. At the same time parallax and lack of DOF preview were a hinderance. Hyperfocus is controlled by setting the aperture, and that requires a complimentary adjustment of shutterspeed given the light conditions, that's all I meant by that." CreationDate="2011-04-10T21:18:05.147" UserId="4670" />
  <row Id="15969" PostId="10766" Text="Yes, I can certainly see that they would be.  I think may Leica friend may have been overly idealistic / romantic about certain aspects." CreationDate="2011-04-10T21:23:33.397" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="15970" PostId="10767" Text="Interesting, thanks. I wonder how hard shutter speed and aperture accuracy would be to test independently, and why these are less routinely covered in current reviews." CreationDate="2011-04-10T21:45:40.263" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="15971" PostId="10772" Text="According to http://www.imatest.com/docs/sharpness.html#calc _&quot;The four bins are combined to calculate an averaged 4x oversampled edge. This allows analysis of spatial frequencies beyond the normal Nyquist frequency.&quot;_ So it seems the answer to your question may be **yes**, but I don't yet understand the method well enough to know why." CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:08:44.427" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15972" PostId="10750" Text="N-I-C-E !!!&#xA;Now this is the answer. Thanks a lot. &#xA;Now that I got it - its pretty useful" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:19:16.473" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="15973" PostId="10767" Score="1" Text="+1 For introducing the point about exposure accuracy.  However, it doesn't immediately rule out @PeterT's idea.  Lack of accuracy is not a problem--but poor reproducibility is.  E.g., if your camera consistently takes a 1/40 sec. exposure for a nominal 1/30 sec setting, it's inaccurate but *it's precise.*  One can measure precision by taking pictures of the same target under the same conditions at the same settings, again and again.  So why not photograph a standard target *on screen* (no ambient illumination)?  Comparing different shots will tell us how well the settings were repeated." CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:21:21.187" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="15974" PostId="10756" Score="1" Text="@Guffa - the (digital) 2D monochrome image (as per color channel) is a digitized representation of some continuous spatial function (which is the analog image projected on the sensor). This was said in the comments above. Now, to show that this digitized matrix is a superposition of harmonies, all you have to do is a 2D DFT (usually by means of FFT) on the image. Then, your 1st component of the transform is the DC level (freq. = 0) and corresponds to your &quot;all gray&quot; image mentioned above. The two high-freq. phase inverted waves will cancel each-other to result a some of 0. [cont...]" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:25:37.720" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15975" PostId="10756" Text="@Guffa - [cont 1] This is not analogous to the solid gray image. Now, once you have your decomposed (freq. analyzed) matrix, you can see the relationship between the original image plane and the Nyquist freq., determined by the pixel spatial resolution. If the analog image contains frequencies higher than the relevant Nyquist freq. of the sensor, then you might see aliasing artifacts in the digitized image. This is the reason why there is the low-pass filter in front of the sensor - to clip the higher than Nyquist frequencies. This is 1:1 analogous to the 1D digitized sound recordings." CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:29:54.343" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="15976" PostId="555" Text="Don't forget that a few (four, I think) Canon DSLRs also have [Magic Lantern](http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Magic_Lantern_Firmware_Wiki), which is in much the same spirit as CHDK." CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:31:50.413" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15977" PostId="10771" Text="Not to mention that a lot of the blue gets scattered by the atmosphere, especially in the best hours to photograph (i.e. sunrise and sunset)." CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:34:46.340" UserId="449" />
  <row Id="15978" PostId="1717" Text="@abhi That does have the inbuilt RAW converter, doesn't it? Totally forgot. Although is OP looking for a stand-alone RAW editor, rather than a library solution? (Easy: ignore the library section of the program)" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:39:23.230" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="15979" PostId="10773" Text="It is said that we tend to adjust the viewing distance until the image subtends a viewing angle about 60 deg. (very useful graphic btw)" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:49:12.013" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15980" PostId="10762" Score="1" Text="The old timers amongst us will tell you that for a long time this was all we did. What really helps is a split image screen in your camera. You can focus surprisingly quickly with that. You can buy suitable screens for most DSLRs." CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:54:54.720" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="15981" PostId="10737" Text="Bayer filter won't have any effect on the light meter; it's removed from the optical path while the mirror is down. It may be that the meter has some similar weighting through a different mechanism." CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:05:16.640" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="15982" PostId="10770" Score="3" Text="So, here's a question I have. The photosites aren't actually theoretical point samples; they cover an actual area. (Or, in the one-dimensional case, a short length — but not a point.) Does this have any practical impact on application of the theory to reality?" CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:35:12.450" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15983" PostId="10745" Text="I did focus on the human vision color space, I said &quot;2/3 of the visible wavelengths&quot; are discarded.  The simple fact is that for any one output pixel from a bayer image only one of red, green, or blue spectral data was recorded, the remaining wavelengths were all blocked by the bayer filter and the pixel has to get the rest of the color data from surrounding pixels." CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:37:32.350" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15984" PostId="10759" Text="All of what you say seems to be addressed in the latest sensor design if you look at the patent.  In real world shooting I have found the color data to be more accurate, sometimes a lot more accurate, on average than other people I have shot the same subjects with in a group.  As for resolution, bayer has been able to keep ahead with higher resolution counts but with the SD-1 sensor the bayer sensors are not at all ahead in resolution anymore." CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:39:38.150" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15986" PostId="10758" Text="This is very true but one part of the core question is why a larger camera manufacturer is not and has not tried using the Foveon technology in a camera." CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:42:13.423" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15987" PostId="10759" Text="Can you summarize the improvements? Are they basically work-arounds or is it something more clever than that?" CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:42:46.907" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15988" PostId="10759" Text="If you read through the patent link I posted in my response it may help.  But one of them seems to be slightly different pairs (perhaps more than pairs) of blue sensors per underlying red/green photosite, that does a better job of separating out the wavelengths and possibly moving the range covered to better match the visible spectrum.  Also the design supposedly reduces read noise considerably, and we have read in interviews from Sigma that the &quot;native&quot; ISO is now 200, where it used to be 100." CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:54:15.057" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="15989" PostId="10759" Text="Hmmm. Patents are mind-numbing to read, since they're legal documents, but on quick skim, the one you link to seems to be concerned with a more efficient means of wiring the sensor to reduce read noise, not the issues I describe." CreationDate="2011-04-11T00:03:20.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15990" PostId="10770" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - That's a very interesting question. In the context where I studied sampling (time changing electrical signals), the duration over which each sample was taken was never large relative to the sample rate, so it  was never an issue. As far as I am willing to speculate, the effect might be similar to applying a low-pass filter that had a cutoff frequency very near to the sampling frequency. Such a filter would attenuate (but not completely remove) the very high frequency content of the image." CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:08:24.303" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15991" PostId="10770" Text="But since the sampling frequency is twice that of the Nyquist frequency (the highest reproducible frequency), there really shouldn't be any content at that frequency anyway. If that is the case (and I'm really just guessing here), then not much important image content would be touched. Just a little of the very high frequency content would lose contrast." CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:08:58.750" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15992" PostId="10767" Text="@whuber: I also mentioned repeatability..." CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:09:17.330" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="15993" PostId="10775" Score="3" Text="Could you maybe provide some more context as far as what it is you are doing? That might help people to provide you with better answers." CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:22:02.140" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="15994" PostId="10775" Text="I'd love to see an example photograph." CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:27:45.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15995" PostId="10767" Text="@Jerry Yes, you did.  But you focused on accuracy.  There is some hope: one person did accurate measurements of a crummy camera shutter and found a standard deviation of 0.08 stop (http://www.circlemud.org/~jelson/lomography_shutter/) even though it was over 1/2 stop too rapid.  Others report that precision is a challenge at the fastest speeds but perhaps not so much at the slower ones, which makes sense mechanically (http://www.nemeng.com/leica/006b.shtml).  Thus it seems possible, even likely, that a decent SLR will have highly repeatable exposure at slow to moderate shutter speeds." CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:38:21.407" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="15996" PostId="10775" Text="a nice example will be something like this http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2007/06/super_mario_brothers_papercraf.html I have an idea of doing some paper craft that fits with my mini toys but I do not know how to create those stuff." CreationDate="2011-04-11T02:32:37.477" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="15997" PostId="10760" Text="@jrista - ha ha, that's hilarious!" CreationDate="2011-04-11T02:54:56.543" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="15998" PostId="10760" Text="I think it means the site is working. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T02:56:00.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="15999" PostId="10759" Text="The extra blue sensors totally change everything you were talking about.  Remember that today the Foveon sensors as they are already do an excellent job rendering colors in real-world use." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:08:59.220" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16000" PostId="10759" Text="I'm not getting that from reading the patent. It's simply talking about how multiple blue sensors are wired together for reads. At the beginning, the Brief Description says _&quot;The present invention provides two different ways to reduce the number of required wires through the pixel array.&quot;_ And as one reads the whole thing, it's about wires and couplings. This is good, in that reducing noise is good, but it really doesn't appear to relate to any of the above." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:16:57.543" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16001" PostId="10759" Text="And that said, I don't doubt that the technology is improving. I do think, though, that these issues are key to the trouble the technology has had getting traction in the marketplace." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:20:17.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16002" PostId="10759" Text="One hint of it is here &quot;Each pixel sensor includes six photodiodes identified in FIG. 1 at reference numerals 12-1 through 12-6, 14-1 through 14-6, 16-1 through 16-6, and 18-1 through 18-6.&quot;  Altering the graph of color ranges captured changes the issue you are discussion. Also I find the use of the term &quot;imaginary colors&quot; in your original response suspect." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:25:24.033" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16003" PostId="10759" Text="Let's move this to http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/367/photography-tech-chat, yeah? And then come back with a summary-of-findings." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:30:37.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16004" PostId="10759" Text="&quot;imaginary colors&quot;, by the way, is a technical term, not meant to be derogatory." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:32:24.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16005" PostId="10773" Text="What are the units on the axes?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:41:27.433" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="16006" PostId="10754" Text="See comments on my answer. The linked-to patent covers a scheme for linking multiple &quot;pixel sensors&quot; so they can be read in groups, reducing the need for wiring. The need for more wiring in a smaller space is a natural problem when you stack the sensors on top of each other, so this is a solution for that. It does not, unfortunately, provide a further description of the fundamentals of the SD-1 sensor." CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:45:39.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16007" PostId="10775" Score="1" Text="Maybe: http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/24184/handmade if that ever gets off the ground. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:55:17.590" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16008" PostId="10754" Text="@Kendall: I think you seriously need to reconsider the statement &quot;a resolution that exceeds pretty much any consumer DSLR today&quot;. The 46mp spec of the SD1 is NOT the same in terms of image RESOLUTION as **many** DSLR's on the market today. Resolution refers to detail resolvability, and Sigma's misleading use of MP in their sensor leads people to make the very grave mistake you just have. The SD1 resolves 3200 lines, while the Canon 5D II resolves 3744 and the Sony A900 resolves 4032. " CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:08:32.503" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16009" PostId="10754" Score="1" Text="Resolution and MP need to be treated distinctly when talking about the SD-1 since Sigma counts all three LAYERS of sensels at each photosite to arrive at the number 46mp. Your upsampling comment is also very subjective, and not based on all the facts. The 15mp image produced by a Foveon sensor will exhibit lower moire, particularly color moire, but it most certainly has not RESOLVED greater detail. Simply put, 3200 lines of resolution is 3200 lines of resolution, and 4032 lines of resolution is 4032 lines of resolution...the latter has more detail. Upsampling never *improves* resolvability." CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:12:58.850" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16010" PostId="10743" Score="1" Text="@Kendall: Technically speaking, a 15mp bayer sensor counts INTERSECTIONS between quads of pixels, in terms of the image produced. Bayer doesn't have less than 15mp, it simply interprets the information at each point that represents an image pixel in a certain way. All things being equal, the human eye works more like a bayer array than a Foveon, and our visual acuity/color perception is superb. I think you put too much negative weight on bayer sampling than it deserves, and too much bonus on foveon sampling. Both technologies have their pros and cons, foveons are just different than bayers." CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:17:39.173" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16011" PostId="10775" Text="@mattdm cool. hope to produce some good pictures with it." CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:24:41.857" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="16012" PostId="10758" Text="I would say the reason is a base of investment. Other sensor manufacturers have an extensive existing base of design, infrastructure, manufacturing, and support for bayer-type sensors. It can cost hundreds of millions to even billions to invest in new CMOS design and manufacturing. Despite Kendall's admirable dedication to Foveon, the differences between the two technologies are not nearly as large as they are often made out to be. Canon and Sony (as Nikon currently uses Sony sensors) have little reason to change yet. " CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:38:25.880" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16013" PostId="10754" Text="It should also be noted that human perception is most sensitive to green, less sensitive to red, and least sensitive to blue. The fact that there are half as many red/blue sensing pixels in a bayer design needs to be weighted with the simple facts of human perception. It also needs to be noted that the deficiencies of bayer interpolation used to create images is only really a problem when photographing objects of high spatial frequency that exhibit moire, and at all other times, the resulting image is plenty sufficient for the vast majority of photographs." CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:42:33.300" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16014" PostId="10754" Score="2" Text="Finally, it should also be noted that with modern Canon cameras, the use of sRAW and mRAW can produce lower resolution images that make full use of all four bayer pixels for each image pixel. No interpolation occurs when using sRAW/mRAW, however image resolution is lower (closer to Foveon image sizes). Bayer interpolation is only used when using full RAW. I think this is a great testament to bayer's versatility, and a good indication of why Canon has not yet moved to Foveon." CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:45:28.807" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16015" PostId="10744" Text="@Kendall: Bayer sensors would be most accurately described as having XYmp pixel &quot;intersections&quot;. Bayer sensors and their image processors produce images by interpolating all the neighboring sensor photosites at each intersection to produce an RGB image pixel. That means four (not three) bayer photosites are interpolated to produce a single RGB pixel. In a 15mp bayer sensor, there are indeed 15mp &quot;RGB pixel intersections&quot;, due to the way interpolation is performed. Just multiply the width and height of bayer image sizes to see how *real* bayer MP ratings are." CreationDate="2011-04-11T05:59:12.227" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16016" PostId="10744" Score="1" Text="As for AA filters, it depends on the filter whether it impairs image clarity or not. The purpose of the filter (which I believe are better described as low-pass filters) is to filter out spatial frequencies below the spatial resolution of the sensor. When a sensor does try to resolve spatial frequencies below its &quot;nyquist limit&quot;, the resulting artifacts have a far greater detrimental effect on the image than anything else. The low-pass filter, when designed properly, will only filter out frequencies that can't be resolved to start with...thus, they don't &quot;further&quot; impair anything." CreationDate="2011-04-11T06:03:27.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16017" PostId="10744" Text="Some DSLR's have low pass filters that are too strong. In the general case, however (Canon and Nikon), they seem to be just right (which one would expect, after more than a decade of manufacturing and using bayer sensors.) The current generation of CMOS bayer sensors seem to properly resolve or out-resolve all but the absolute best lenses, so any complaints about low-pass filters only apply to fringe cases (or in the case where the filter is improperly designed and too strong.)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T06:08:09.473" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16018" PostId="10775" Text="OK, I'm not trying to be a jerk, but I'll say it 'cause I know that it's been talked about over in chat... This doesn't seem to be on topic for photo-SE. If I'm off-base I'm happy to be so... Like I said, I'm not *trying* to be a jerk! :-) Convince me that we shouldn't vote to close..." CreationDate="2011-04-11T06:09:33.103" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16019" PostId="10744" Text="@jrista, Kendall: Foveon and Sigma point out that a direct MP comparison is pointless. Of course any serious photographer would know that any MP number that high is useless anyway in most everyday use, whether it's 15 or 45 :)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T06:32:15.880" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16020" PostId="10779" Text="I indeed never use the screen on my camera while shooting. After a session (or during a break) I may use it to make a quick review of things that need reshooting at times, but that's it." CreationDate="2011-04-11T06:34:31.680" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16021" PostId="9469" Text="Are you sure the size is 22.2mm x 1.48mm, and not 22.2mm x 14.8mm? Typo perhaps?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T10:38:51.110" UserId="1579" />
  <row Id="16022" PostId="10781" Text="Don't you think that &quot;point &amp; shoot&quot; has also gained a secondary meaning, describing a class of small automated cameras?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:08:54.200" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16023" PostId="10716" Text="Don't give up with Lightroom just yet! It does offer a number of presets which simulate the settings used in the camera/&quot;official&quot; software to produce the image that you (expect to) see. Remember, as people have already said, images are simply interpretations of the RAW data." CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:09:33.780" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="16024" PostId="9469" Text="Yeah it should be 14.8mm, otherwise that would be pretty extreme panoramic format! Thanks for pointing that out, I'll correct it when I get a chance." CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:23:39.780" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16025" PostId="10728" Text="@Staale S: As I see it it's not that easy to change this protector now is it?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:36:10.937" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16026" PostId="3750" Text="I have the Nikon D3100 and was wondering if the autofocus on the Nikon AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G DX Lens would work with it?&#xD;&#xA;also i am going to buy Sigma Zoom Super Wide Angle 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS (Optical Stabilizer) does this particular lens support D3100?&#xD;&#xA;" CreationDate="2010-12-03T07:23:48.773" />
  <row Id="16027" PostId="3750" Text="Yes, autofocus will work with the 35mm f1.8." CreationDate="2010-12-03T16:44:44.290" UserId="452" />
  <row Id="16029" PostId="10759" Text="So, it seems that Kendall is, unfortunately, reading more into this particular patent than is there. There's nothing about additional blue sensors, or additional types of sensors. That doesn't mean that Sigma isn't working to improve performance surrounding these issues as well, though. I'm sure they are." CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:45:05.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16030" PostId="10728" Text="It ain't what I'd call rocket science :)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T12:46:27.997" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="16031" PostId="10781" Text="as a marketing term, maybe. Technically, that's incorrect (as are so many terms). When your tell you to take an aspirin, do you expect specifically to be given that Bayer painkiller or any painkiller the host may have at hand?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:06:07.770" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16032" PostId="10777" Text="That describes how to resize the pictures but I am trying to crop photos since their aspect ratio was different than the print aspect ratio, aka the zoom to fill option." CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:13:20.297" UserId="4674" />
  <row Id="16033" PostId="10781" Text="I dunno even as a marketing term — the marketers tend to pick something more glamorous. I mean, like, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point-and-shoot_camera (which in turn cites Encyclopedia Britannica). I agree that it's technically incorrect, in the same sense that tomatoes are technically fruits." CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:23:24.237" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16034" PostId="10781" Text="&quot;Bureaucrat Conrad, you are technically correct — the best kind of correct.&quot; http://www.futurama-madhouse.net/scripts/2acv11.shtml :)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:24:36.220" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16035" PostId="10777" Text="When I follow those steps, the pictures in the print page have the Zoom To Fill option selected.  Are you in LR3 or LR2?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:20:05.050" UserId="4618" />
  <row Id="16036" PostId="10784" Score="1" Text="It did sound a bit dubious, especially because the book didn't provide any real-world experiences. I have to mention the Photoshop part (which is roughly 410 pages out of 475) is really good (if someone is tempted to condemn the whole book for this glitch). At least, for me, it was worth a visit to the library." CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:41:00.573" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16037" PostId="10775" Text="i do not see its been talk in the chat. Its hard for me to describe here but I simply just want to take some pictures with an object with some artificial environment scene using construction papers." CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:53:08.583" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="16038" PostId="10737" Text="Excellent point, I've removed that from my answer, and re-arranged it so the the bit I'm most confident of is first. However, it leaves me with no reason to think that metering biased towards green aside from a vague memory. I can't find anything to back it up at the moment." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:21:30.943" UserId="3521" />
  <row Id="16039" PostId="10778" Text="By &quot;working&quot;, did you mean focusing or shooting with a large aperture value? Modern lens are wide open during focusing, regardless of selected aperture. Also, with f/8 viewfinder would be quite dark for focusing. But practicing is the most important ingredient for getting better, agreed with that." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:27:02.313" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="16040" PostId="10786" Score="5" Text="+1 Good advice.  Concerning the 7D: its resolution is *identical* to the T2i.  However, in addition to the faster frame rate, it also has better autofocusing, which could be an important consideration." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:33:01.293" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16041" PostId="10786" Text="@whuber - Ah good point on the resolution, I was thinking it was 14mp for some reason..." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:34:40.713" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16042" PostId="10787" Score="1" Text="+1 Great combination.  The 60D doesn't appear to be sufficiently better than the T2i to be worth consideration, though." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:35:19.187" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16043" PostId="10786" Text="Wow, thanks so much everyone for the great info. I'm going to think about this for a while. There's been a lot of talk about 70-200 L glass. My experience has been that F/4 is just barely tolerable in an ice rink and that IS is useless when there's so much action.  That would lean me towards the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM but I don't feel right about buying a telephoto without IS. The EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM looks perfect but I don't know if it's worth the $$ for my purposes.  What situations would I need IS in a fast f/2.8 lens?  I don't really know why I feel wrong about not having IS." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:51:35.093" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16044" PostId="10786" Score="1" Text="@MDaubs - IS is important if your shutter speeds are slow, but if you're shooting action, you may have less of a need for it since you'll want shutter speeds above the focal length of the lenses anyways. Great if you can spend the extra dough for it, but I would necessarily worry about not having it." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:57:15.350" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16045" PostId="10787" Text="Thanks @Pearsonartphoto, @whuber. Knowing this I think I would upgrade the body to a 7D or not at all. I did not consider the EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 but @cabbey has me thinking that I shouldn't spend money on EF-S glass. I won't be moving to FF bodies any time soon, but this lens could be in my bag for decades. I don't see any EF lenses that cover that focal range though.  Does anyone think 24mm on an APS-C is too tight for general use?  I rarely find myself taking wide shots and I'm not into landscape photography." CreationDate="2011-04-11T15:58:57.110" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16046" PostId="10789" Score="2" Text="5DmkII + Sports = Pain, Frustration and Loathing.  I own one, they're totally NOT suited to action photography unless you're [a manual focus wizard](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10762/can-manual-focus-be-faster-than-autofocus). The 7D beats the pants off the 5D2 on AF performance." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:07:48.690" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16047" PostId="10787" Text="I just noticed that the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM got some really good reviews, calling it on par with L-series image quality.  Anyone know if I can expect the EF-S 17-55 to outperform my EF-S 18-135 (that I don't find particularly impressive)." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:21:47.287" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16048" PostId="10759" Text="It seems that other people are unfortunately not thinking through the implications of multiple blue sensors which have no other point than to add different wavelength detections, since it relates not at all to reducing wiring.  And again, the problem mentioned with wavelengths being captured not matching human vision relate to earlier sensors, we have no such chart for the new sensor.  And lastly, AGAIN I point out that in real life there were no ACTUAL problems that arose from the theoretical problem mentioned; in the real world colors came out more consistently accurate than other cameras." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:23:12.373" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16049" PostId="10754" Text="The lower resolution versions are still inferior because they have discarded color data at every single spatial location.  In a sharp transition from red to blue for example, the colors could be off along the edge simply because some of the THREE bayer pixels were not capturing data.  Furthermore, no matter how you size it a Bayer imager as 1/4 the number of red and blue input pixels as the MP rating, so in such a reduced image you would wind up with somewhat lower resolution than a Foveon imager capturing the same amount of detail." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:26:37.753" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16050" PostId="10754" Text="@jrista - the whole notion that humans are &quot;more sensitive to green&quot; is only about detail, and ignores the fact that color photos contain, well, color.  Optimizing for green means that details will appear sharper, but you have lost color accuracy across the image as a result. In real photography the accuracy of color is just as important as giving user lines they can see clearly.  Also the SD-1 imager does not produce &quot;lower color moire&quot;, it produces zero color moire since that is wholly an artifact of bayer sensor design. " CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:29:58.640" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16051" PostId="10759" Text="@Kendall, the patent just _doesn't_ describe multiple _new_  sensors, blue or otherwise. The invention is ways of coupling multiple sensors together, reducing wiring. So there's no implications to think through." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:31:13.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16052" PostId="10754" Text="@jrista:  3200  lines of resolution assumes all sensors have data.  In the case of using a red filter with a modern bayer camera, you do not have 3200 lines of resolution, you have 800.  That is an inescapable fact of physics when you place filters over you sensor that across the whole image plane discard 2/3 of the color data presented to the imager.  In real world images that means some areas of an image with primary colors do not get as much detail recorded as other areas of the scene.  Otherwise you would see constant detail from shooting any color resolution chart, which you do not." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:32:30.040" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16053" PostId="8233" Text="@thomasrutter - doesn't your third point - that &quot;A rectilinear image of such a wide angle of view makes things look very stretched at the edges&quot; - apply equally to both a corrected fisheye image, and to one taken with a rectlinear ultrawide lens?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:34:55.897" UserId="3470" />
  <row Id="16054" PostId="10754" Text="@jrista:  In an upsampling process, you take data from multiple surrounding pixels to create a new pixel.  Sound familiar?  Because when processing bayer data, you take data from multiple surrounding image sensors to create a &quot;full&quot; pixel.  A 15MP bayer imager has only 3.75 million red sensors.  The output image at 15 million pixels has 15 million pixels with red channel color data.  Wave your hands all you like, in the end up have upsampled data in every color channel of the output image.  That is simply how the bayer process works." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:35:16.560" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16055" PostId="10759" Text="As for the real world — I've definitely seen beautiful images from Foveon. It's cool and interesting technology. There's also been problems with noise, and with color shifts (particularly at higher ISO). These are related to the issues I describe, and I think they're important in the &quot;what happened to Foveon&quot; question. As the technology improves, I'm sure there will be more and better workarounds, reducing any real-world impact further; but, just as the Bayer array has intrinsic problems to solve, so does Foveon. (There is never a silver bullet.)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:38:48.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16056" PostId="10743" Text="Bayer does have less than 15MP in a bayer image - the process you described is upsampling data to arrive at the output image.  In a 15MP bayer imager you have 3.75 million sensors gathering red channel data.  In the output image you have 15 million red data points.  Somewhere data was extrapolated from a much smaller set." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:39:53.733" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16057" PostId="10759" Text="A final challenge.  Since you claim a theoretical disadvantage to the Foveon sensor, there should be real-world implications.  What is the real-world problem that arises with existing Foveon cameras due to the frequency response you mentioned?  Can you provide any example image, or even scenario that would show a problem in the resulting image?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:42:32.700" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16058" PostId="10743" Score="1" Text="@Kendall, although each pixel of a Bayer array has a filter in front of it, they are still individual pixels with their own spatial characteristics. Sophisticated interpolation allows the red channel to incorporate information from the green and blue channels as well." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:43:42.080" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="16059" PostId="10759" Text="@mattdm:  I hav enot seen color shifts in higher ISO images in the cameras I use, I have seen some reduction in saturation.  Noise is a wholly different issue unrelated to frequency response, it's true the Foveon sensors have not handled noise as well as other cameras in the past, though the latest round of sensors can shoot in color to ISO 800 pretty well, and in B&amp;W up to 3200." CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:45:28.983" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16061" PostId="10775" Score="2" Text="Barring further modification of the question to be more on-topic, it appears to be a question about building paper props for use in photography, not a question about photography. See the FAQ (http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) for a more complete discussion of what is considered on-topic..." CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:26:46.753" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16062" PostId="10792" Text="@Dave Nelson... I've heard a lot of good things about the image quality of the 17-55 but never used one... what don't you like about it?" CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:34:11.220" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16063" PostId="10787" Text="@MDaubs: Almost certainly. The general opinion of the 17-55mm 2.8 is that it would be an L lens, but Canon doesn't call any lens L that's an EF-s." CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:40:13.633" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="16064" PostId="10777" Text="LR3, I seem to only get the Zoom To Fill option when the Layout Style is Picture Package, and when it's Picture Package I can only put the same photo on the page.  If I change the Layout Style to Custom Package then I can put 2 pictures on like you describe but the Zoom To Fill check box disappears." CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:41:54.397" UserId="4674" />
  <row Id="16065" PostId="10775" Text="Hi Jay maybe you are right somehow... but shouldn't the problem is what I'm facing now with creating a scenery/environment/background for taking a good picture? I apologized if its not a correct place to put for this question. I thought a lot of photographers who took miniatures like me needs help to find out more on this." CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:10:33.513" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="16066" PostId="10775" Text="We're kicking it around in chat right now if you want to get your .02 cents in on it. :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:15:14.883" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16067" PostId="10792" Text="@MDaubs - I bought the 17-55 specifically to upgrade a Tamron lens to take pictures of my child. Within a week of using it, the 17-55 on a 7D, the pictures started to regularly be out of focus. After a couple of weeks the camera started acting strange with error messages and reporting that it had focused when it obviously hadn't. So I sent the lens and body to Canon and they repaired both of them. But I still feel I am not getting consistent focusing performance from the lens, the camera is fine, and with the 16-35L it is great." CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:48:40.533" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="16068" PostId="10772" Score="2" Text="@Sean It appears to be an averaging phenomenon.  If the line is slanted a bit from the vertical, it might be fair to think of each successive row as sampling the same *horizontal* signal but shifted a little.  This effectively oversamples a single signal.  At 5 degrees the slope is about 12, giving about a 12:1 sampling ratio.  This should increase the horizontal resolving ability by Sqrt(12) = about 3.5.  I suspect that's why the algorithm uses four bins per pixel (&quot;4x oversampled edge&quot;).  Thus the answer is definitely &quot;yes.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:49:51.717" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16069" PostId="10772" Score="4" Text="@jrista Try this gedankenexperiment: imagine your sensor is a *single* enormous pixel, but it has highly precise and repeatable output (around 36 bits should do).  Focus a single sharp point of light in the middle.  Now plot the sensor's response as you slowly shift it sideways until the focused dot is completely off the edge of the sensor.  If the lens is perfect, the sensor's response is constant until the dot falls of the edge, then drops to zero.  In reality, lens aberrations will spread the dot, causing a spread in the response curve: the amount of spread is the lens resolution." CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:55:40.183" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16070" PostId="10743" Text="If I have a 15mp sensor such as in the Canon 500D, the final output image is 4725x3168 pixels. Multiplying those two numbers together, I have 14,968,800 pixels, or 14.9mp. The bayer sensor has 15.1mp, which includes additional border pixels to account for the way bayer interpolation works, as well as provide for calibration and design mechanics. Regardless, my **final image** is 14.9mp, or 15mp when nicely rounded. That is REAL resolution...not fake resolution. Its not 800 lines of resolution, its an actual, physical 3168 lines, and the photos look great. Lets not mince words here." CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:40:07.367" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16071" PostId="10722" Text="1) I would love to see that article!" CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:43:01.623" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="16072" PostId="10754" Text="@Kendall: I'd be happy to continue the debate, but you need to get some of your facts strait first. Please read up on standard bayer interpolation. You keep mentioning that *three* bayer pixels are used when interpolating, however outside of custom algorithms used by fringe applications like DeepSkyStacker, each RGB output pixel is produced by interpolating *four* pixels, an RGBG quad. Please see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9738/why-are-effective-pixels-greater-than-the-actual-resolution/9745#9745" CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:44:09.297" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16073" PostId="10722" Score="1" Text="lol, i think i've found it: http://pixinfo.com/en/articles/ccd-dust-removal/" CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:44:36.943" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="16074" PostId="10754" Text="Regarding sRAW and mRAW, I am not sure if that is what you are referring to...however they most certainly do not discard any information. The input for each pixel is a 2x2 RGBG bayer quad. Luminance information (Y) is extracted from all four pixels, each one with specific weighting depending on the sensel color. Color information for a SINGLE output CbCr pair is produced from all four sensels, so 2 green and 1 red/1 blue. Each quad is used to produce a single putput pixel, rather than up to four like normal RAW processing...so no interpolation of any kind is occurring." CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:48:42.383" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16075" PostId="10754" Text="The sRAW and mRAW formats output a 14-bit YCC format, or YCbCr, which is a luminance/chrominance format. It is a high precision, full accuracy, but lower resolution image format that contains just as much color information per pixel as a Foveon. If one wanted to be precise, it contains twice as much green color and extra luminance information per output pixel as a Foveon." CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:50:42.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16076" PostId="10744" Text="@jwenting: I agree, direct mp comparisons are useless. However, whether more MP is worthless in general is a matter for another debate. If you like to print large, more MP is important." CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:55:20.977" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16077" PostId="10759" Text="@matt: &quot;Each pixel sensor includes six photodiodes identified in FIG. 1 at reference numerals 12-1 through 12-6, 14-1 through 14-6, 16-1 through 16-6, and 18-1 through 18-6&quot;  describes multiple blue sensors per underlying red/green layer. The old system has only one blue photodiode, just like the red/green layers still do." CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:57:21.470" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16078" PostId="10744" Text="I also said direct comparison was not right (because detail captured by a bayer sensor varies by color in scene and Foveon data captured is constant regardless of color), and gave a rough estimate for a 46MP Foveon sensor having the same detail as a 30MP bayer sensor.  That is true of current cameras, the 15MP Foveon sensor holds the same level of detail as a 10-12MP bayer imager.  Thus you can print a Foveon 15MP image just as large as a 12MP bayer image and detail will appear identical.  In fact someone did that with a 14MP bayer camera: http://www.whisperingcat.co.uk/scans/sd14vs14nx.htm" CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:02:26.037" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16079" PostId="10743" Text="In your Canon 500D, the truth of the matter is that your input red sensor count is 3.75 million, your input blue sensor count is 3.75 million, your input green sensor count is 7.5 million.  When you add those together you get 15 million.   But in your output IMAGE you have an image with 15 million red values, 15 million green values, 15 million blue values.  That's a total of 45 million data points, created out of 15 million.  The 30 million values not originally recorded are data wholly created by estimating, it might be very good but it's still not &quot;real&quot; data.  " CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:07:07.110" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16080" PostId="10743" Text="You will see the truth of the matter when you compare a 15 million output pixel image from a 45MP SD-1, compared to a 15MP bayer camera image.  Then you will understand directly that in fact all along the bayer images you have been looking at have all been upsampled." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:08:41.087" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16081" PostId="10743" Text="@mark:  A pixel in an output image is composed of red, green, and blue values.  The &quot;pixel&quot; you are referring to for a bayer sensor has only a single color channel value, the rest have to be extrapolated from pixels nearby.  If you have a red leaf in an image you are capturing that ends up being a single pixel in the output, that leaf will be lost unless is happens to hit one of the 1/4 of the sensors on the bayer imager that is red.  We know the problem is real because we see it occur with color moire, where the colors in the scene do not hit the right sensors and color data is confused." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:12:31.647" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16082" PostId="10743" Text="In the end the Bayer system is a clever form of compressing images without losing much image data.  But it still loses some, and more importantly loses detail varying on scene color, which makes for inconsistent sharpness across an image that should ordinarily vary by depth of field, not color." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:14:56.870" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16083" PostId="10754" Text="The three I referred to is the minimum amount of data required to form one output pixel - I know some simpler algorithms use four, some use more.  In the end it simply reinforces my point that output data is upsampled." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:16:19.770" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16084" PostId="10754" Text="@jrista:  You cannot have as much color information from 3.75 million points of data as from 4.75 million (in both red and blue channels this would be the case).  It simply is not physically possible.  I agree you have more luminance data, but then past that point the sensor is like a two-year old that cannot quite color in the lines right.  As stated when you optimize for luminance you then end up sacrificing color accuracy.  You can get very close thanks to some clever algorithms but when you are discarding 2/3 of the scene wavelengths across the whole image, eventually you get color wrong." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:18:20.937" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16085" PostId="10788" Score="1" Text="The T2i has the same sensor and pretty much the same noise characteristics of the 60D/7D which are better than the 50D and those before it.   " CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:41:09.943" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16086" PostId="10754" Text="@Kendall: I think the simple fact that there is a TREMENDOUS volume of billions of truly fantastic, brilliantly colored photos, produced with Bayer sensors, quite simply **refutes** that statement. You can't deny the quality of photographs that come out of cameras with bayer sensors. I've done a lot of comparisons between Foveon and Bayer images, since Foveon technology is very intriguing and does have its merits. While they do seem to have a more brilliant blue, the differences beyond that are minimal at *best*, and your statements certainly don't seem to be backed up by visual fact." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:49:10.127" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16087" PostId="10754" Text="And to head off the inevitable retort that people who use bayer sensors have to saturate to get full color detail, I send you to one of my own photos which had a single activity performed in post processing: slight black level clipping. The colors in this photo are REAL, RAW strait out of my bayer camera: http://jon-rista.deviantart.com/art/Fiery-February-201693211. I think the blues and reds speak for themselves." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:55:44.613" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16088" PostId="10722" Score="1" Text="Yep, that's it. Thanks for finding it!" CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:56:47.937" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16089" PostId="10759" Text="Okay, I'm sorry; reading a different section than the one you're pointing (Fig 3, rather than Fig 1) does indeed seem to imply four blue photodiodes for everyone one red and green. There's a lot of discussion of this here http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&amp;message=37967881, and speculation as to _why_. It remains to be seen, I guess. However, I still stick to my answer, because even if the blue pixels differ in color (uncertain!), that doesn't address the issue of the red depth or of the primaries for green and red." CreationDate="2011-04-11T20:59:35.113" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16090" PostId="10777" Text="You're absolutely right.  I was testing with two similar looking pictures and didn't realize they were actually the same shot." CreationDate="2011-04-11T21:16:16.217" UserId="4618" />
  <row Id="16091" PostId="10772" Text="@jrista, @whuber has the answer. See this article: http://web.me.com/carlesmitja/www.carlesmitja.com/Download_files/2009_7428_25_MitjaEscofetVega.pdf and this article: http://www.kreynet.de/papers/OPTIFAB2007-Ruprecht.pdf. A point source is examined and the Point Spread Function is determined. From that the MTF  and Strehl Ratio can be calculated." CreationDate="2011-04-11T21:55:14.097" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16092" PostId="10743" Text="@Kendall, just to be clear I'm using the term &quot;pixel&quot; here to represent the smallest addressable area on the image plane. I believe this is the definition from the dawn of digital imaging. The definition is independent of the color information available at each address. I hadn't realized the SD-1 was competitive in pixel addressing, I'd love to see the output." CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:04:51.907" UserId="775" />
  <row Id="16094" PostId="10778" Text="By working I mean shooting since focusing is happening wide open. Lower aperture especially everything &lt; 4.5 forces you to know exactly what you want to focus on. Take a portrait for example. Focus for the eyes instead of the nose, you can see the difference with such low values. Larger aperture gives you more tolerance to master your first steps in manual focusing, since you have an increased depth of field. Many lenses have distance markers printed on the barrel. Read this article series: [link](http://www.diyphotography.net/nine-reasons-to-manually-focus-when-taking-pictures)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:13:50.490" UserId="4675" />
  <row Id="16095" PostId="10795" Text="I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say &quot;taking pictures&quot; of flat objects is kind of the definition of a scanner - I'd not call it &quot;abusing&quot; it." CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:24:14.113" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16096" PostId="10788" Text="@Eruditass, same sensor, but different software. One of the key differences is that the 60D and 7D both allow access to the &quot;sweet spot&quot; iso values which the T2i does not; also I seem to recall reading that the firmware on those levels didn't really do the best at dealing with the noise compared to the 7D (and I assume 60D since they're very similar bodies)." CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:24:33.973" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16097" PostId="10795" Score="1" Text="@rfusca - yes, but he said **nearly** flat... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-11T22:30:57.647" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16098" PostId="10795" Text="Have you tried the HP Scanjet 4670 See-Through scanner? It is supposed to let you take pictures of objects by simply placing the scanner on top and as such is not expected to be perfectly level... I can't confirm this though, only that I read it somewhere." CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:23:50.320" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16099" PostId="10775" Text="Just for future reference, I'll post the consensus of that chat here: While this question does relate to photography, it deals with the creation of a _prop_, not photographic _equipment_. The expertise needed to answer this question has very little overlap with the knowledge base of the experts on this site." CreationDate="2011-04-12T01:28:35.703" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="16100" PostId="10788" Score="1" Text="Yes, but the noise characteristics, especially in RAW where you get the best results anyway, *mostly* depend on the sensor.  By sweet spot I assume you mean intermediate ISO stops.  The amplifiers today generally are factor of 2 only, so those intermediate ones are just done in software.  If you mean higher ISO, in JPEG that might be true, but again in RAW, hardly any difference." CreationDate="2011-04-12T01:42:42.143" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16101" PostId="10793" Text="This is one of the things I take advantage of with my 1D. Having the ability to cut out an additional stop of ambient light when shooting with strobes can mean the difference between having ghosting or not." CreationDate="2011-04-12T03:15:01.707" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16102" PostId="10786" Score="1" Text="All good points about glass, however when AF performance is important, glass is only half the solution. The speed of a lenses AF doesn't do anything to actually &quot;lock&quot; focus...that is entirely a function of the camera body. You need to pair good glass with a quality AF system...and in this case, that is the 7D. " CreationDate="2011-04-12T03:26:54.510" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16103" PostId="10784" Text="I declare shenanigans on that book's author. Canon and Nikon didn't replace their lens lines when they came out with digital bodies. The lenses remain interchangeable, and neither company has ever suggested any such foolishness. Matter of fact, Nikon still lists the F6 and FM10 on their website; Do they advertise *ANY* &quot;film&quot; lenses? Nope. " CreationDate="2011-04-12T03:27:49.600" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16104" PostId="10786" Text="@jrista - For sure... But 10 years down the road when he's using the bazillion megapixel Canon Super D(o everything), those lenses will still be useful. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-12T03:31:45.650" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16105" PostId="10775" Text="alright cool. thanks everyone for advise." CreationDate="2011-04-12T05:06:41.987" UserId="1786" />
  <row Id="16106" PostId="10786" Text="@John: For sure...but ten years down the road, he would have missed the shot from tomorrow. ;P" CreationDate="2011-04-12T05:24:55.857" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16107" PostId="10787" Score="1" Text="@MDaubs Having shot a few thousand photos with the EF-S 17-55, my main (really only) complaint is the zoom is too loose: not up to L build standards.  Optically it's good: almost no CA and the barrel distortion at wider angles corrects easily in post.  It's supposed to have good resale value if you ever decide on a FF body, so considering it a $1200 commitment might not be the best way to balance cost and benefit.  BTW, pay attention to filter sizes: a 67 mm filter for the 70-200 won't fit the 17-55; get 77 mm filters (*e.g.,* polarizer) and a step-down ring." CreationDate="2011-04-12T05:58:54.067" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16108" PostId="10794" Text="See the review at http://www.the-digital-picture.com/reviews/Canon-EF-135mm-f-2.0-L-USM-Lens-Review.aspx ." CreationDate="2011-04-12T06:02:13.877" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16109" PostId="10801" Text="Actually this makes sense, I am seeing improvements each day... not sure if those charges caused the increased noise though." CreationDate="2011-04-12T06:15:31.483" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16110" PostId="10803" Score="1" Text="[DxOMark](www.dxomark.com) is a good resource for comparing sensors, but it's compare view seems to be malfunctioning tonight." CreationDate="2011-04-12T07:13:00.433" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16111" PostId="10783" Score="3" Text="I suspect slight curvature in the film was far greater than the layer thickness. Getting the film to lie flat against the backing plate is difficult and needs a vacuum back for perfect results." CreationDate="2011-04-12T07:31:44.730" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16112" PostId="10796" Text="Thanks, this part looks promising: &quot;You can even scan three-dimensional items up to approximately one inch thick&quot;. However, this seems to refer to the physical design of the *lid*, not the DoF. Did you find any information on DoF?" CreationDate="2011-04-12T07:58:12.623" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="16113" PostId="10796" Text="@Jukka - No, I did not, but my interpretation is that they refer to the actual ability to scan non-flat objects, but I may be wrong." CreationDate="2011-04-12T08:02:53.847" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16114" PostId="10795" Text="@Itai: Thanks, I haven't tried it, but [this review](http://www.docspopuli.org/articles/Library/ScannerReview.html) (see the very end) suggests that the DoF isn't particularly large. However, no real DoF measurements here either." CreationDate="2011-04-12T08:07:19.310" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="16115" PostId="10783" Text="100% agreed, labnut." CreationDate="2011-04-12T09:11:33.480" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="16116" PostId="10806" Score="1" Text="The questioner was asking about same sized sensors, I keep hearing the old more MP more noise argument but with DSLR sized chips the trend seems to be that advances in chip design and resolution offset the increase in noise you would expect from smaller photosites. " CreationDate="2011-04-12T10:00:59.353" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16117" PostId="10806" Text="Also I'm not sure why the discussion of 3CCD designs is relevant as they're simply not practical for DSLRs due to extra space needed and the cost of making three sensors instead of one. For low resolution video cameras it makes sense as demosaicing artifacts are worse at low res and the sensors are cheap and light loss is to be avoided, but if you look at a high res large sensor camera like the Red and you'll find a single Bayer sensor." CreationDate="2011-04-12T10:05:16.570" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16118" PostId="10804" Text="Good additional points and the site you linked to is really great! Not just that page, but the whole site." CreationDate="2011-04-12T11:07:02.820" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16119" PostId="10798" Text="I'm not sure exactly where your last comment is coming from. It seem very negative. If you disagree, please contribute positively and make the site a better place." CreationDate="2011-04-12T11:07:38.937" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16120" PostId="10801" Text="This is the first time I have seen this claim. Can you provide references?" CreationDate="2011-04-12T11:46:12.680" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16121" PostId="10798" Text="Also, from a Luminous Landscape article shortly after the one you link to: &quot;_As good as they can be, (see my G10 vs Medium Format article) these aren't really a replacement for a DSLR let alone a medium format camera when it comes to image quality. They're good, but not that good._&quot; — http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/pocket-battleships.shtml" CreationDate="2011-04-12T12:52:58.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16123" PostId="10759" Text="These two comments from that long thread seem particularly relevant: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&amp;message=38065327 and http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1027&amp;message=38059468 (thanks @jrista)" CreationDate="2011-04-12T13:26:36.247" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16125" PostId="4837" Text="On a related tangent, we might soon have digital 126 cartridges: http://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2011/04/digital-film-concept-could-resurrect-dead-film-cameras/" CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:12:21.897" UserId="2062" />
  <row Id="16128" PostId="10764" Text="@PeterT I think I pretty much understand it now... Only why are the Leicas so expensive? :-/ " CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:23:24.143" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="16129" PostId="10788" Text="There's a fair amount of evidence that the even multiple of 100s ISOs are the software pushed ISOs. Specifically they're all 1/3 stop pushed in software over the &quot;native&quot; ISOs. eg 400 is 320 + 1/3 stop push in software and 250 is 320 - 1/3 stop with a software pull. They certainly are the cleanest/least noise ISOs on most of the recent Canons." CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:32:18.183" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16130" PostId="4819" Text="Just a note that instead of searching for cropped images, which you can't, you have to create a Collection which selects cropped images for you. That is pretty simple to do." CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:38:30.610" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16131" PostId="8930" Text="@Kendall Helmstetter Gelner — excellent point." CreationDate="2011-04-12T14:40:31.843" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16133" PostId="10764" Text="@eWolf: mostly because of low economies of scale, hand crafted in Germany and appealing to people who value this over actual utility. They are nice machines, though. The fact that they are simple is a genuine feature." CreationDate="2011-04-12T15:52:20.217" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="16139" PostId="10788" Text="Yes, we agree on the pushed/pullled point. Where is the the evidence that they are better? Intuition and observations of many others say otherwise: photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00L9oA http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?209515-T2i-intermediate-ISOs&amp;p=1984610&amp;viewfull=1#post1984610 They have more noise, less DR, or both if not implemented in an suboptimal way as there is less power available on a camera. Second, you can apply those same software pulls/pushes... in software, on your PC. Also, the native ISOs which are hardware based are 100, 200, 400, 800, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:34:25.720" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16141" PostId="10788" Text="Lastly, if you can get them on a T2i with the awesome magic lantern firmware, which has many features not available on any other camera, such as focus peeking." CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:34:42.333" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16143" PostId="10799" Score="3" Text="Please edit your original answer rather than adding new answers like this, unless there are significant differences between the two answers. This should probably be a comment on your previous answer rather than another answer." CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:37:08.870" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16144" PostId="10798" Score="3" Text="Personally, I think it's a little more helpful to understand the scenarios where handhelds do well, vs. those where they struggle.  Having owned both, there are advantages for each." CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:45:08.910" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16145" PostId="10798" Score="1" Text="@The Truth Deleted: there's no reason you can't just make your (perfectly valid) point that modern sensor tech is so good that compact cameras provide top-notch image quality in a wide range of situations _without_ being derisive of everyone else, or making personal attacks. This is a _community_ site, and it works on basic rules of civilization and politeness. You have some strong opinions, and along with them, some valuable insight to share. Why not contribute in a positive way?" CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:52:57.037" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16146" PostId="10156" Score="1" Text="Just saw this: http://uk.gizmodo.com/5791249/eye+fi-mobile-x2-shoots-pics-straight-to-a-mobile-device and remembered this question: seems like the solution is one step nearer." CreationDate="2011-04-12T16:53:29.787" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16150" PostId="10754" Text="Bayer converters often saturate somewhat heavily as part of conversion - in fact I've never seen anyone claim bayer sensors desaturate, my complaint is that lots of bayer cameras end up with colors I consider overly saturated.  That image does look fairly realistic.  My argument is all about color accuracy and especially color in fine detail, not saturation or color in broad strokes.  The same argument (huge volume of photos with excellent color) also applies to the Foveon sensor, only it also lacks issues with color in fine details." CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:33:49.220" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16151" PostId="4819" Text="That is indeed what I meant...you use a smart collection with the criteria &quot;Cropped: true&quot;. Smart collections are technically just saved searches." CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:35:46.783" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16152" PostId="10743" Text="The SD-1 has three layers of 15 million sensors, and according to the patent the blue layer looks to be subdivided really into a number of different photosensors too.  I also would like to see the output from the SD-1, and hope it is not much delayed from the earthquake..." CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:36:24.850" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16153" PostId="10812" Text="Could you provide a link to an example item that would work?" CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:43:53.037" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16154" PostId="10811" Text="I am impressed, this is a lot of discipline. I can barely get myself to tag based on Lens." CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:47:31.410" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16155" PostId="8978" Text="How is color accuracy and gamut? In the context of photography, color purity, accuracy, and gamut are critical, and that is where third party inks usually fail to deliver. There ARE some quality third party pigment inks for brands like Epson and Canon, however they are not much cheaper." CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:47:46.467" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16156" PostId="4671" Text="Thank you all very much for the answers,&#xD;&#xA;I went ahead and got the nikon d3100.&#xD;&#xA;Have a great day!" CreationDate="2010-11-08T07:14:25.153" />
  <row Id="16157" PostId="10811" Text="Thanks! Guess it depends on priorities, I really do not mind searching for a specific lens (10756 of my images match 'Unknown lens'), but finding a photo that fits is very important to me! My images are cropped very tightly in-camera (can't work without a 100% coverage viewfinder anymore) so I can rarely simply crop an existing image to fit a requested format." CreationDate="2011-04-12T19:09:10.317" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16158" PostId="10815" Score="1" Text="FWIW, a geoid and an ellipsoid differ.  The latter is used for geodesy: it is an idealized mathematical model used to locate latitude, longitude, and elevation. The [geoid](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoid) is based on gravity and force; it approximates the hypothetical mean sea level.  It is usually described as deviations relative to an ellipsoid. The deviations vary up and down, to about 100 m.  If the altitude was recorded by a GPS unit, it could be referenced to a geoid (e.g., NMEA) or ellipsoid (e.g., WGS84)  See http://www.gpspassion.com/forumsen/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10915" CreationDate="2011-04-12T19:33:04.787" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16159" PostId="10802" Score="1" Text="If money is no object, the superzoom vs. SLR lens aperture argument doesn't check out. One can buy 800m f/5.6, 600mm f/4, or 400mm f/2.8 SLR lenses. This outclasses any superzoom I am aware of. However, that comes at the cost of a small car — it's true that at less specialized price-brackets, the superzooms may have an edge. (Still, the Sigma &quot;Bigma&quot; lens has an aperture of f/6.3 at 500mm, which is similar to most superzooms.) And, unlike the Canon G series and its rivals, the superzooms aren't typically racking up the image-quality praise. With camera gear, there's always a compromise." CreationDate="2011-04-12T20:32:41.173" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16160" PostId="10805" Text="The reasons I want to upgrade the body is to have a bigger screen, spot monitoring, higher iso levels, custom user modes etc etc.. I was just also wondering if a newer body would have been IQ as well." CreationDate="2011-04-12T21:58:12.913" UserId="1431" />
  <row Id="16162" PostId="10814" Score="1" Text="This question is definitely on topic here, but there's also a [Geographic Information Systems](http://gis.stackexchange.com/) site. Some folks over there could probably go into way more depth about the whole geoid/ellipsoid thing." CreationDate="2011-04-12T23:35:28.940" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16163" PostId="10826" Text="Can you provide an example of the &quot;paint with light&quot; style of tunnel photography? Most of the tunnel photos I have seen are more straightforward shots that emphasize the geometry of the tunnel. You may also want to consider changing your title to reflect the fact that your question is specifically about painting with light. " CreationDate="2011-04-12T23:36:43.753" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16164" PostId="10826" Text="Forgot to add links before I saved. Thanks for the heads up!" CreationDate="2011-04-12T23:40:47.127" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16165" PostId="10824" Text="@TIW - Are you affiliated with this company? If so, please disclose this. (If not, my apologies.) " CreationDate="2011-04-12T23:58:29.567" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="16166" PostId="10822" Text="I use a very similar system with a folder for the year then each even gets a folder named &quot;YYYYMMDD_event-name&quot; and I add keywords to every photo when I import them so that I can later search and sort by specific keywords. I don't trust any software to catalog my photos because I want to be able to find them 40 years from now and who knows if I am going to be able to read a 40 year old database. I am confident that I will be able to read EXIF data in JPGs. Hopefully if there are big changes in file formats there will be good conversion tools also." CreationDate="2011-04-13T00:01:18.677" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="16167" PostId="8233" Text="@bacar, yes, that was what I was trying to say.  At that extreme angle of view, a rectilinear image will look stretched at the edges whether it's a corrected fisheye or an equivalent hypothetical rectilinear lens." CreationDate="2011-04-13T00:15:23.970" UserId="3422" />
  <row Id="16168" PostId="1652" Text="I ultimately answered my own questions here, for those who want all the juicy details: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1715/how-do-i-generate-high-quality-prints-with-an-ink-jet-printer" CreationDate="2011-04-13T00:35:52.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16169" PostId="10826" Score="1" Text="@Jay I still don't see the relevance to tunnels, the links you posted seem to involve dark places in general instead of just tunnels. I almost feel like there are two separate questions here: &quot;How do you take good tunnel photos&quot; and &quot;how do I take good 'painting with light' photos?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-13T00:45:52.160" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16170" PostId="10828" Text="You mean since the late tenth century: Ibn Sahl is credited in that same Wikipedia article with &quot;work[ing] out the shapes of anaclastic lenses that focus light with no geometric aberrations&quot;; in other words, with designing aspherical lenses. In a [1990 Isis article](http://www.jstor.org/pss/233423), Roshdi Rashed documents Ibn Sahl's geometric construction of refracting optical instruments based on conic sections, such as the hyperbola, with perfect--aspheric--focusing properties.  He points out that an 11th century successor, Ibn al-Haytham, further addressed astigmatism and aberration. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T01:50:40.290" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16171" PostId="10826" Text="The tunnels (or, rather, culverts) are probably specifically relevant in regards to the bicycle-wheel &quot;Spirograph&quot; effect (fix lights to the rim/spokes of various-sized bicycle wheels and run them around inside a culvert or concrete tunnel pipe, giving interesting geometric effects). Combine that with geometric cutout templates (to run a gelled flashlight around inside) photographed at various distances and angles, and you can create some pretty neat patterns." CreationDate="2011-04-13T02:37:10.770" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16172" PostId="10819" Score="3" Text="There's a basis for your hypothesis: see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4115/problem-with-fluorescent-lighting-and-shutter-speed for examples and a discussion.  Do you also see color shifts towards yellow or green?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T02:43:22.960" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16173" PostId="9918" Text="Sorry, didn't see your reply till now. If you just add one to your cart, you can pretty much make the price whatever you want. They default to around 8 bucks. I figure its nice to give them something for the effort, but it doesn't cost much." CreationDate="2011-04-13T02:43:35.970" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16174" PostId="10754" Text="As a pixel peeper and print fanatic, I regularly examine my printed photos under a loupe. There are never any problems with fine color grades, color definition, proper saturation (over or under), etc. The issues with bayer interpolation are at a sub-pixel level, and their visual impact is approximately 1.5 pixels in size when viewing a RAW image at 100%. Even then, bayer interpolation algorithms these days are very sophisticated, and are able to dynamically weight red, green, and blue for each pixel generated from a bayer quad." CreationDate="2011-04-13T02:55:50.827" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16175" PostId="10754" Text="It may be time for someone to do a more apples to apples, pixel by pixel comparison of images produced by both Bayer (RAW &amp; s/mRAW) and Foveon cameras, and provide an objective comparison. Despite my arguing here, I don't have any particular affiliation with Bayer, and I love that Foveon exists, is pushing the envelope, and providing some competition to the big sensor makers. If I could get my hands on a Sigma with a Foveon, I would gladly do a raw comparison between it and some bayer cameras. I'd freely make all the materials available to everyone, for their own edification and verification. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T02:58:28.377" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16176" PostId="10754" Text="Certain things that bug me about existing Foveon-vs-Bayer reviews is that visual comparisons are largely subjective, and less objective. Comparisons are made without strict guidelines and rules about how the comparison should be made, images of different resolutions are compared, original source files are rarely available (or maybe never...can't think of any instance were original RAW's were made available), etc. I think its time for that to change. There are certainly areas where Foveon will excel (moire), and areas where Bayer will excel (resolution), but it would be nice to know the truth." CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:01:02.057" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16177" PostId="10835" Score="3" Text="Which characteristics are you after? DOF, Bokeh, or Framing?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:47:40.330" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16178" PostId="10835" Text="The crop factor on the D90 is roughly 1.5, so your 60mm f/2.8 will have the field of view and depth of field of a 90mm f/4.2." CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:50:51.390" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16179" PostId="10832" Text="This is certainly a possibility, though I doubt the lack-of-resources argument --- the camera has a zillion settings in the menu." CreationDate="2011-04-13T04:00:45.483" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16180" PostId="10836" Text="Do you [also have an 18-55 zoom?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10236/upgrade-general-purpose-lens-for-canon-from-18-55-kit-lens/10241#10241)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T04:13:21.243" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16181" PostId="10832" Score="2" Text="I'm leaning towards this in general.  It really fits from a programming point of view - once the camera is in a known state it can execute the same piece of code to take a picture.  Less bugs that way." CreationDate="2011-04-13T04:14:07.843" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16182" PostId="10784" Text="There is one more effect to deal with: even though they use microlenses to help reduce it, light being sent toward a digital sensor at an oblique angle doesn't work the same as with film. To deal with this, recent wide-angle lenses (especially) tend more toward retrofocus designs." CreationDate="2011-04-13T04:23:23.757" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16186" PostId="10836" Score="1" Text="yes. I have the kit lens. But I was not very satisfied with the performance. How about sigma 24-70 f/2.8 or canon 70-200 f4" CreationDate="2011-04-13T05:04:26.707" UserId="4489" />
  <row Id="16187" PostId="10754" Text="Actually with the SD-1 the Foveon chip will excel in both resolution and moire handling.  Even the highest resolution DSLR's will only about equal the SD-1 in terms of real resolution captured." CreationDate="2011-04-13T05:11:30.570" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16188" PostId="10832" Text="@Evan: Sure, there ARE zillions of settings, which is probably what the bulk of the existing storage and logic are dedicated to. The expensive processor in most DSLR's is the image processor, not the camera control IC, since that is the most intensive processing the camera does. IC yield is the biggest source of cost in electronic devices, so keeping the IC's you need for a camera as small as possible helps keep cost down. I would imagine camera manufacturers try to keep yield on the camera control chip as high as possible so they can invest in image processing and sensor chips." CreationDate="2011-04-13T05:23:33.773" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16189" PostId="10819" Text="There's color shifts towards orange and blue (which are basically identical to what the non-stereoscopic camera does for lighting correction), I haven't seen one towards green." CreationDate="2011-04-13T05:53:19.443" UserId="4696" />
  <row Id="16190" PostId="10836" Score="9" Text="If you weren't satisfied with the kit lens's performance, you probably won't be too thrilled with a superzoom. The only thing a superzoom improves over your kit lens is the zoom range; everything else will be only as good or worse than your kit lens." CreationDate="2011-04-13T06:28:45.543" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16191" PostId="10754" Text="Its that kind of statement that needs some solid, unbiased information to either back it up, or refute it. ;P" CreationDate="2011-04-13T06:33:27.207" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16192" PostId="10805" Text="to answer that, I've seen no noticeable difference between my D70s and D200 (which are of roughly the same generation) that can't be explained by factors not related to the sensor design (except the higher pixel density on the D200 because of its higher higher MP count)." CreationDate="2011-04-13T06:42:57.527" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16193" PostId="10797" Score="1" Text="I'm not sure this is quite fair for this particular question. MDaubs is making a reasonable assessment of the lenses he or she has and his/her usage of them. Just about every hobbyist photographer could probably stand to be less gear-focused and more photograph-focused, but if your lenses are a collection of budget zooms it's reasonable to consider upgrades." CreationDate="2011-04-13T07:59:41.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16194" PostId="10794" Text="Also http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos/168-canon-ef-135mm-f2-l-usm-lab-test-report--review " CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:01:00.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16195" PostId="10794" Text="@MDaubs: since your current description of what you use sounds like you get the most out of your one prime lens, I second the recommendation of looking at other primes; if not this one, Canon makes a lot of others in various price ranges." CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:03:59.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16196" PostId="10833" Text="Glad to hear that worked out okay, and thanks for sharing the results. I can't imagine that happening with the diffuser panel on my own flash for many, many years, but I guess those rental units get a lot more constant use." CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:07:23.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16197" PostId="10835" Text="@Evan Krall: at macro range, doesn't the DOF-equivalence math break down?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:15:01.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16198" PostId="3887" Text="I think &quot;what are the prices for this specific equipment this particular season going to be&quot; is way out of scope. But &quot;does camera equipment pricing generally drop during the US holiday shopping season&quot; seems quite reasonable." CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:43:16.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16199" PostId="6732" Text="possible duplicate of [What factors should I take into account when deciding whether to buy now or wait for something better?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3770/what-factors-should-i-take-into-account-when-deciding-whether-to-buy-now-or-wait)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T08:44:04.210" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16200" PostId="10835" Text="@jrista I would like to get all: DOF, Bokeh and Framing. But most importantly I am after framing." CreationDate="2011-04-13T09:09:39.600" UserId="4703" />
  <row Id="16201" PostId="10846" Text="thanks a lot for the explanation. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T09:15:35.697" UserId="4705" />
  <row Id="16203" PostId="10857" Text="@ShutterBug:Thanks for the valuable inputs and i am already getting 4Gb card regarding tripod and the lens i will go this in next month but can surely go to battery" CreationDate="2011-04-13T10:30:14.440" UserId="4433" />
  <row Id="16204" PostId="10856" Text="@ElendilTheTall:i am just entering in this area so i believe i can follow your suggestion,surely will go for tripod but may be next month since i am already going out of budget with some other expenses.one of my friend suggested about polarising filter and lens hood not sure how relevant that is." CreationDate="2011-04-13T10:32:28.323" UserId="4433" />
  <row Id="16205" PostId="10856" Score="1" Text="+1 for mentioning software and using &quot;if you…&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-13T10:34:32.920" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16206" PostId="10858" Text="agree and what you have mentioned Nikon is providing it with it :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T10:35:50.243" UserId="4433" />
  <row Id="16207" PostId="10856" Score="1" Text="@Umesh - a lens hood is a good idea and they are pretty cheap. Go for a 'petal' shape rather than a round one to stop the hood being visible when your lens is at its widest angle." CreationDate="2011-04-13T10:38:59.130" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16208" PostId="10857" Score="3" Text="Why will he need to 'use Live View most of the time'?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T10:51:46.150" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16209" PostId="6249" Score="1" Text="@Stan Rogers:&#xA;1/ Hasselblad does not use any AA filters in their cameras (just like Leica and Phase One)&#xA;2/ Hasselblad attempts to fix any Moire problems in their sw (there is a sw moire filter)&#xA;3/ Moire problems decrease as resolution increases as the optics become the resolution limitating factor." CreationDate="2011-04-13T09:04:09.043" UserId="4709" />
  <row Id="16210" PostId="10859" Score="1" Text="Do you care about _reviews_ (as implied by &quot;best&quot;), or are technical specs sufficient?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:03:44.223" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16211" PostId="10855" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [What are must have accessories?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/172/what-are-must-have-accessories)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:05:51.867" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16212" PostId="10859" Score="4" Text="You should also check this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1520/lens-review-sites" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:06:46.693" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="16213" PostId="10859" Score="1" Text="@mattdm I hope I can find reviews after I get a list of available lenses that I'm interesting in." CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:17:28.040" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="16214" PostId="10859" Text="@asalamon74 Thanks! Didn't see this question before" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:19:56.660" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="16215" PostId="10857" Text="He said hes new to DSLR. Beginners always use live view and its a good thing which helps understanding the basic controls when you see the them live." CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:44:50.403" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16216" PostId="10857" Text="That's a bit of a sweeping generalisation I think. An extra battery is always a good idea though." CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:47:16.157" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16217" PostId="10857" Text="Well you cant argue the fact that cameras having live view is much better for understanding ISO/Shutter/Aperture settings as you can see the changes made by different settings taking effect immediately. Whoever is new to DSLR will always find this useful." CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:52:54.777" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16218" PostId="10835" Score="1" Text="You can not get all my friend. If you could, everyone would buy D90 instead of buying D700 :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T12:04:38.850" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16219" PostId="10864" Score="5" Text="Hi sfactor! No need to apologize for lack of knowledge. This is a Q/A site, so we're all hoping to learn. As for the degradation of quality issue, see this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/are-there-any-downsides-to-using-a-uv-filter" CreationDate="2011-04-13T12:56:44.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16220" PostId="10801" Text="I have not seen this claim before, and the user is not able to add references at this time, due to a temporary suspension. However, there does seem to be some merit to this claim. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triboelectric_effect#Damage_to_electronics" CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:02:03.747" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="16221" PostId="10865" Score="2" Text="Although it's not actually phi, it's the engineering symbol for diameter :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:04:57.620" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16222" PostId="10865" Score="2" Text="It looks like it... Close enough for government work. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:06:04.563" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16223" PostId="10760" Text="@Tall Jeff's answer below is a great start (as is @coneslayer's shorter comment), but I don't feel like it addresses the general question (now expanded above); I've added a bounty in hopes of getting more general and authoritative answers. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:06:19.233" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16224" PostId="10865" Text="It's that kind of shoddy thinking that's got the world in its current mess! ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:13:17.300" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16225" PostId="10760" Text="Backside-illuminated sensors will see an improved blue response. Much of the blue light is attenuated as it passes through the non-sensitive gate structure of a frontside-illuminated sensor. See typical spectral response curve (for research-grade CCDs) at http://www.ccd.com/ccd101.html" CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:16:38.323" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16226" PostId="10760" Text="@coneslayer — you can edit your answer below to include that...." CreationDate="2011-04-13T13:28:53.640" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16227" PostId="10860" Text="@Bobby:Thanks for the valuable inputs and they will really help me a lot..well honestly i am more inclined towards nature so my whole focus will be for this side..regarding the lens i will go for it but not at this time..can you give my idea ho much UV filters will cost me so that i can adjust my budget..:)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:02:37.057" UserId="4433" />
  <row Id="16228" PostId="10797" Score="1" Text="@jwenting As much as I'd like to disagree your assessment is at least partially accurate. I said that I'm not impressed with the softness of the 18-135 zoom but if I shoot in manual mode and take plenty of thoughtful shots I can get photos that I'm very happy with provided there is enough light for me to stop down.  On the other hand, I will never be able to manually focus during a hockey game so I am somewhat limited by my equipment when it comes to AF. In the end I think it's a little of both. Either way I'm being pretty picky about relatively small details. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:29:53.413" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16229" PostId="10851" Score="1" Text="This is *almost* always an economic fallacy - if the price of the object were set artificially very high, then competition could swoop in at a lower price and get the business.  Sensor manufacturing cost, justifying the cost of pro support, better materials, higher R&amp;D are much more likely candidates.   For some reason, the public likes to think that businesses are &quot;sticking it to em&quot; by artificial price inflation.  It happens, but its much rarer than most think." CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:35:19.497" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16230" PostId="10867" Score="1" Text="Cool! I saw something about that on their front page but didn't follow up. That's pretty slick." CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:39:44.777" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16231" PostId="10831" Score="2" Text="@drfrogsplat Thanks! You got me thinking... do I really need a telephoto zoom? I'm not sure I do. My 50mm prime is effectively 80mm on my T2i and that's become my goto hockey lens even though there's no zoom. The 50mm was never purchased for the purpose of shooting hockey games. An 80mm or 100mm prime would be an affordable way to &quot;reach&quot; more rink, crop less, and reach my desired level of detail at a fraction of the cost. Doesn't solve my AF issue but I always wanted to move to a better body anyway." CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:48:18.770" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16232" PostId="10865" Score="1" Text="good answer. To be picky: &quot;...reduce the light by a couple of stops&quot; **citation needed**. In past years I often used a cokin polarizer on a Panasonic Lumix FZ8 and I found out the meter never showed any difference. I mention this to say that's the only context I used a polarizer in, it could be different with another (better) camera/lens. The FZ8's sensor sucks compared to newer ones, but the camera as a whole is an excellent compact. This leads me to believe it didn't get fooled by the filter and a polarizer actually didn't affect how much light came in." CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:49:44.010" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="16233" PostId="10856" Text="I would only add this excellent article on Tripods.  Some of the model numbers mentioned are a bit out of date but the information is still spot on: http://www.bythom.com/support.htm" CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:52:47.737" UserId="2155" />
  <row Id="16234" PostId="10865" Score="2" Text="@Mattia - The job of the polarizer is to absorb certain polarized light so it can't but reduce the amount of light coming through." CreationDate="2011-04-13T14:53:42.570" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16235" PostId="10819" Text="It would help a lot if you are able somehow to post each of these pictures in an unedited manner, specifically the meta data. I don't know if you can pull them off of a 3DS, but it would make our lives easier." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:00:20.380" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="16236" PostId="10865" Text="@Mattia - Here's my citation *'polarizers reduce light by between 2 and 2 1/2 stops'*. I can put it my website to make it official ;) If the meter does not change, your images would come out quite dark. Perhaps if Auto ISO was on, then you did not notice the camera compensating." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:03:40.177" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16237" PostId="10851" Text="@rfusca - The current DSLR market isn't a good candidate for applying the principles of free market perfect competition, especially in the short run. There are a limited number of players; all the products and brands are clearly distinct from one another; and the market as a whole moves very slowly, maybe even on the order of years, between new camera development time and slush price changes." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:09:50.967" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="16238" PostId="10851" Text="@Sean - that might be true if this were considered a short run situation, but pro cameras have been at a premium for years.  Plenty of time for additional competition to step in and really it works so longer as there isn't a single player.  The cost of switching would appear to be a barrier, however the cost of switching brands may be high, but plenty of people still do it with the resale value of lenses also being relatively high.  I'm not suggesting its a perfect market, but its enough to apply some traditional econ to." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:19:19.723" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16239" PostId="1404" Text="@Reid The purpose of dark frame subtraction is to correct repeatable pixel-to-pixel variations in dark current. Demosaicing mixes data from multiple pixels (and with modern algorithms, this happens in complex ways and involves more than just neighbors). Unless you have a way to do the subtraction on raw data before demosaicing, which is not a common feature that I've seen in photographers' software, you won't be able to do as well as the camera can. (Likewise, the subtraction should be done on linear pixel values, without gamma correction etc.)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:25:32.780" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16240" PostId="10870" Score="1" Text="+1 for noting the use of step-down filters.  BTW, a *great* polarizer doesn't have to cost $200 (although some do).  In objective tests the Marumi filters tend to perform as well as the top-price ones but cost only 1/2 to 1/3 as much." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:28:57.487" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16241" PostId="10865" Score="1" Text="@Itai nah, only ISO 100 had decent quality on that camera. I looked for examples because I couldn't believe the difference was so big and I found out two silly yet appropriate shots [this one](http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23492662/P1070221.JPG) and [this one](http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23492662/P1070220.JPG). They actually differ by one stop, which is a bit in favor of and a bit more against my statement :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:29:49.280" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="16242" PostId="10754" Text="We already know from experience with current imagers that a 4.7MP Foveon imager has the same level of detail in an image as a 10-14 MP bayer imager (the link I posted comparing image output from a Canon 5D and print output from a Kodak 14n to an SD-14).  We also know the SD-1 sensor has 15 millon photosites in three layers, so a lower-end estimate is that it has the same level of detail as a 30MP bayer imager.  So then to judge the statement &quot;it will excel in resolution&quot; you have only to look, on average, at home many bayer sensor DSLR cameras there are with more than 30mp of resolution." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:30:51.913" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16243" PostId="1404" Text="I should add that subtraction of a single dark frame (whether in-camera or post-processing) helps correct the repeatable variations, e.g. hot pixels and other &quot;structure,&quot; but actually *increases* the true noise component by sqrt(2), so it's not all good. This is why astronomers average multiple dark frames to produce a high-quality &quot;super dark&quot; for subtraction." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:35:24.283" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16244" PostId="10874" Score="2" Text="Although, that article apparently predates the Hoya HD line." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:45:33.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16245" PostId="10874" Text="@matt Good point.  Unless some more recent review emerges, the choice comes down to whether one thinks Hoya (which was earlier producing middle-of-the-pack results, at least according to this testing) has leapfrogged all other manufacturers in the meantime.  I don't know.  I do know Hoya has been around a long time and has a good reputation--I have some of their filters.  I am also happy with the Marumi." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:49:16.953" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16246" PostId="10864" Text="@mattdm +1 for kindness and sheer coherence. Anyway, while it must be appreciated that it offers many different points of view, I think the question you linked to shows the typical bias we were talking about in meta. @sfactor you will hardly need to use both filters at the same time, and you should avoid that." CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:52:11.583" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="16247" PostId="10874" Score="1" Text="Well, they claim to have leapfrogged _something_ http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/HD-01.html :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T15:56:46.033" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16248" PostId="10874" Text="@matt Of course they have to claim that!  The &quot;test movies&quot; on the Hoya site are a bit of a joke, though: they are two-second clips of someone dropping what looks like a clear glass disk.  The Hoya Web page also shows an undefined curve.  It appears to correspond to the T1 transmission curve in the lenstip test article.  The comparison is to the previous (underperforming) Hoya filters, not to the competition.  On that basis there is an improvement: the transmission now seems slightly greater than the B&amp;W and Marumis in the review.  Intriguing, but remember this is not an unbiased test." CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:05:28.280" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16249" PostId="10874" Text="Never seen a Marumi filter and I don't have the technology to scientifically measure one but I can vouch for the Hoya HD filter. I was already happy the their Super-Multi-Coated but the new HD one is even better. Both show no color-shift (unlike B+W which I got rid of) but the HD is crisper." CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:06:58.390" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16250" PostId="10835" Text="Well, would get the FoV/Framing of a 90mm, and the DOF/Bokeh of a 60mm. Cropped sensors do just that...crop, so for a given focus distance (ignoring framing for the moment), you get the same DOF as the lenses real focal length will give you. Now, to achieve identical framing, you'll end up with different DOF. With the 60mm/APSC, your focus distance has to increase to achieve the same framing as 90mm/FF, and your increasing your DOF by doing so." CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:14:48.833" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16251" PostId="10868" Score="1" Text="And, it's from one of our friends here ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:18:53.637" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16253" PostId="10851" Text="@rfusca The release price of the Canon 1Ds mkIII was about £2000 more than that of the 1D mkIII. Both cameras have almost identical bodies, materials, AF, support, R&amp;D costs. The big difference is the sensor size. That can't account for the price difference as the 1Ds mkIII sensor is pretty much the same as in the much cheaper 5D mkII!" CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:32:52.163" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16254" PostId="10546" Text="So I bought this class 4 card: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/752183-REG/SanDisk_SDSDB_008G_B35_8GB_SDHC_Memory_Card.html thinking that it would be decent, it only records for just over 10 seconds before auto stopping. Even when I drop it down to 720p. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:33:51.500" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="16255" PostId="7561" Text="Note, however, that there's another EXIF tag, FocalLengthIn35mmFilm, that *does* contain the &quot;equivalent&quot; 35mm focal length. I don't really like the name of this field, for the reasons Matt Grum described, but there you go..." CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:46:20.607" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16256" PostId="10851" Text="Well the price is part sensor, part marketing to show off the sensor, R&amp;D of the new sensor, they're not going to sell that many, and if we're talking about their very, very top of the line product the economic incentive is slightly different. Its not a &quot;because we can charge that much&quot; or &quot;because you'll pay that much&quot;.  Its a status symbol for both the buyer and the seller.  It looks good for marketing reasons for the flagship to eclipse other products and it looks good for you to own a flagship product.  I'm not saying these are pure costs based reasons, just more than &quot;because you'll pay&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:56:30.390" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16257" PostId="10865" Text="If you pass unpolarized light through a perfect polarizing filter, the intensity will be reduced by half (1 stop). If you're using it to deliberately suppress light that's preferentially polarized (e.g. reflections, or sky 90 degrees from sun) the loss will be somewhat more. And real polarizers aren't perfect, and tend to have a little extra light loss." CreationDate="2011-04-13T16:59:41.837" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16258" PostId="10870" Text="+1 for actually digging up that Φ symbol!" CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:00:17.093" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16259" PostId="10879" Score="2" Text="To clarify: XMP sidecars *do not* store edit history, so if you lose your catalog you would essentially have access to a file with all the edits you'd made to it (or with no edits at all), but no record of *what* edits you made, nor any way to step back through the stack of edits that Lightroom was keeping track of..." CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:24:16.173" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16260" PostId="10874" Text="@Itai That's right, it takes a little hunting to find the Marumis: they seem primarily to be marketed in Japan.  I found mine on Amazon.com." CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:28:49.457" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16261" PostId="10879" Text="Thanks, Jay, that's an important point that was beyond my experience so far." CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:30:43.890" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16262" PostId="10877" Text="There _are_ real photography workflow programs in Linux, although they aren't as polished yet. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/471/what-tools-are-available-for-raw-image-processing-in-linux and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5329/" CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:47:10.397" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16263" PostId="10877" Score="3" Text="Welcome to the site, Brett. I'm having a bit of trouble extracting the actual question from this. If you look at the FAQ (http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq), note that &quot;This is what I do; what are you guys doing?&quot; questions are specifically discouraged. Can you rephrase in a more directly-answerable way? Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:49:34.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16264" PostId="10877" Score="2" Text="Can you expand on how the images were lost in the upgrade disaster? I don't connect the dots between a new d:/My Pictures/ folder and loss of 500 out of 4000 images." CreationDate="2011-04-13T17:55:16.713" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16265" PostId="10879" Score="1" Text="Another point to add, LR can be configured to specific backup reminder times.  Which can make sure you are actively backing up your latest work.  After losing my catalog a couple of times, due to hardware issues, I've set mine up to backup every time I'm done" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:00:07.887" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="16266" PostId="10786" Text="The EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM will probably work fine for you.  That's all I use, since I'm hardly ever using it in a situation that I have a slow enough shutter speed to make a huge difference.  The EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM is an amazing lens, and I've been tempted to upgrade, but it's a significant price jump.  I'd rent the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM first, see if it meets your needs.  With the lighter T2i body, you might find that the weight difference is something you don't want to deal with, since adding the IS added weight and additional elements." CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:13:10.120" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="16267" PostId="10851" Score="3" Text="Actually I learned about this teaching business calculus. By gradually lowering the price of a technology as new versions are introduced you can effectively get every consumer to pay the maximum price they would individually be willing to pay for the item.  The computer that is selling for $300 today but sold for $600 yesterday really only cost $200 to make, but by letting the price drop gradually everyone ends up buying it at their own individual top dollar price. I don't like the practice, but its very common." CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:17:32.067" UserId="2451" />
  <row Id="16268" PostId="10786" Text="I will also add, that I upgraded to the 7D from the T1i because the autofocus just wasn't cutting it for me, especially with the sharper lenses.  I found that the Rebels were just too slow and not accurate enough, and the better glass makes it very apparently when your dealing with action shots.  While the new Rebels can produce great still life shots, the processors, more than the sensors makes the difference when it comes to action. Especially when you're dealing with thin DOF from the wide open lens." CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:18:27.667" UserId="1141" />
  <row Id="16269" PostId="10882" Text="Is that presentation on Linux LR-equivs in the form of a slideshow or other presentation, or even video? I'd love to see a copy (and maybe as an answer for http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/471/ or http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/321/, or some new more-specific question). Y'know, if it's not too much trouble. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:27:46.303" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16270" PostId="321" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/471/what-tools-are-available-for-raw-image-processing-in-linux _What tools are available for RAW image processing in Linux?_" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:28:20.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16271" PostId="471" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/321/what-photo-management-software-would-you-recommend-for-linux _What photo management software would you recommend for Linux?_" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:28:42.483" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16272" PostId="10884" Text="Just curious — would this question generalize to _all_ APS-C/crop-sensor formats, regardless of brand?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:30:32.310" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16273" PostId="10887" Text="Exactly. It's very unlikely that Canon would jeopardize their highly profitable professional &quot;L&quot; series by producing equivalents that were smaller, lighter and cheaper. It's not just Canon, but every other manufacturer does this. Low end low margin bodies to get people into the system with the hope that some will eventually migrate over to the high end high margin products." CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:58:21.360" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16274" PostId="10887" Score="9" Text="*Why* would an EF-S 200mm f/2.8 lens be smaller, lighter, and cheaper? That's the essence of the question, and it's not obvious to me that it would be (at least not by much). You don't have the same engineering tradeoffs in a long focal length lens as you do with wide-angle retrofocus lenses." CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:58:47.303" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16275" PostId="10884" Text="@mattdm: Yes, Canon EF vs. EF-S is just an example here." CreationDate="2011-04-13T18:59:04.403" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="16276" PostId="10887" Text="Edited to actually answer the question, my bad." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:02:46.527" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="16277" PostId="10882" Text="@mattdm no, it wasn't recorded and there weren't any slides... it was a live talk/demo. Very heavily two way interaction with the 20 or so folks in the audience, not a static presentation. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:03:45.053" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16278" PostId="10887" Score="5" Text="Maybe I'm an exception, but I have at least 2 lenses and a flash that cost more than my camera body, and my camera body is a crop sensor." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:06:16.810" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="16279" PostId="10887" Score="6" Text="I disagree that that answers the question. A 200mm f/2.8 lens has to have a 72mm entrance pupil, no matter what format it covers. You don't automatically get much glass savings from covering a smaller format." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:06:37.337" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16280" PostId="10884" Score="2" Text="FWIW, the recent long-focal-length Pentax DA* lenses (300/4, 200/2.8, 60-250/4) are marketed as APS-C lenses, but are reported to actually cover full-frame (for which Pentax has no DSLR bodies). FF coverage is a lot closer to &quot;free&quot; for telephoto lenses than wide angle. http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/31629-da-lens-full-frame-test-shots-thread.html" CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:09:24.387" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16281" PostId="10851" Text="Some of that is true, but with products such as cameras that are very incremental in their development, when that happens its mostly that most of the R&amp;D of the current generation was already paid in previous generations.  But yes, some of it is them trying to get individual consumer surplus but some of that is a byproduct of naturally lower costs.  Companies are not always as evil as we wish ;).  " CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:12:49.393" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16282" PostId="10859" Text="How important is minimum focus distance instead of magnification? And how about number of elements/groups? My site (Neocamera) offers other criteria and many more, as someone already mentioned, but I did not think those were important enough to crowd the interface." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:20:46.960" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16283" PostId="73" Text="@mattdm I realize now that is very vague indeed, I'll edit the answer. I won't post the exact content from the pdf though since I'd need permission from the author for that." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:22:15.580" UserId="19" />
  <row Id="16284" PostId="10878" Text="mmr's answer is the very similar to the one I would give. Brett, it sounds like your friend has a larger problem than what software he using, reading Scott Kelby's LR book and following the simple workflow described within would totally change his life. I too fear proprietary solutions, so I do not depend on the LR database at all. I have been using LR since the beta and have never updated a database from a prior version, I haven't seen the need. The key to finding your images is to use good keywords in the EXIF/IPTC data and keeping them organized by date in the file system." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:39:55.203" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="16285" PostId="2097" Text="@jrista I'm familiar with the lab DA uses, their mounted Giclée is spray adhesive... one of the 3M Super Spray versions (77 or 72 I think) on the back of the print and the face of the wood, then under a roller to adhere them and left to cure, there is an optional spray coating, but it's a very thin one, and is for protection/gloss, not mounting." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:52:16.920" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16286" PostId="2097" Text="The old wood and poly process John's talking about is pretty different, it involves placing the paper on the face of the wood, usually with a noticeable amount of wood showing around it, then covering the whole thing with poly, usually pretty thick. If you're familiar with decoupage, you can almost think of this as a heavy version of that. (My mother and I mounted a lot of poetry that way back in the day.) " CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:53:24.640" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16287" PostId="10888" Text="I think this answers the title but not the actual question." CreationDate="2011-04-13T19:55:05.920" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16288" PostId="10887" Score="1" Text="@Jędrek I'm in a similar situation to @Pearson, but maybe we're exceptions.  Nevertheless, everything you say makes sense.  That raises the question: what is the basis for your assertions about what &quot;most crop sensor camera buyers&quot; and &quot;many people&quot; do?  Or is your reply primarily a personal take--speculation, really?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:08:28.670" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16289" PostId="10822" Text="I was going to add a similar response but I think I'll just add the slight difference in personal photos - I also have a mixture of professional and personal stuff, but I treat personal stuff the same way you treat professional, only replacing &quot;client&quot; with a whole category - so for instance I have a top level folder for &quot;family&quot;, under which I have a year, then an event name, then a set of projects related to the photos taken.  Also even for professional work I have client-&gt;year-&gt;&quot;projectName-Month&quot;-&gt;Projects with photographs" CreationDate="2011-04-13T21:15:09.250" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16290" PostId="10829" Text="Actually I think the key is a mixture of hierarchical structure with tags.  That way you can drill down by subject to find stuff you know happened on a rough date (like October 2003 for a family gathering).  But you can also pull up all images with uncle Fred in them.  However the real devil in the weeds there is that correctly tagging each image is impossible, which is why you also need a strong structure...  Another key is overlapping structures, forming a lattice in which you can find just about anything.  In Aperture that takes the form of a tree with only albums." CreationDate="2011-04-13T21:17:32.930" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16291" PostId="10829" Text="Sure, I guess my touching on that was a little light and vague, but in my first paragraph I mentioned that hierarchies are great for physical storage purposes, which would meet the need your referring to. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T21:26:56.583" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16292" PostId="10897" Score="2" Text="+1 for company-checking. All the quality is not worth the hassle if your company expects a different format." CreationDate="2011-04-13T21:38:53.210" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16293" PostId="10895" Text="If you're using Lightroom, you may be interested in Jeffrey Friedl's InDesign workflow. (He uses PSD as the intermediary, BTW.) http://regex.info/blog/2010-11-15/1662" CreationDate="2011-04-13T22:32:41.390" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16294" PostId="10899" Text="ETTR = Expose to the right, basically increasing the number of photons coming in, for the exact opposite reason that @duality_'s mentor suggested.  It's easier to get back detail from highlights in a digital image than from noise in the background of a black image.  See http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml" CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:00:25.510" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="16295" PostId="10898" Text="I've been meaning to ask this too. I read somewhere that underexposing allows you to keep control of the colors in your photo better (I guess this is if some color channels are getting washed out, which I suppose is a possibility). But in my experience I end up with noisier images than I'd like. " CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:21:30.913" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16296" PostId="10760" Text="@mattdm - Relative to your follow-up refinement, this current state of the art is really most a matter of cost/performance optimization. There is nothing inherent to physics that requires blue performance to be worse, only that it would be MUCH MUCH more expensive given current device constructions and given that the human eye is not very sensitive on the blue/yellow color axis we're already doing &quot;good enough&quot;. In fact, I'm sure most camera makers would prefer total cost to drop before paying the same or more just to improve blue noise for almost all common applications." CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:21:39.967" UserId="892" />
  <row Id="16297" PostId="10760" Text="@Tall Jeff — you can edit your answer below to improve it by adding information like that. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:49:05.503" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16299" PostId="10900" Text="Hi, I'm a developer, this seems like a fun project. Give me a day or two to play around with this. Is your photo set up somewhere (public album on picasa?) for me to work with?" CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:43:54.380" UserId="4726" />
  <row Id="16300" PostId="10900" Text="You're gonna be in Boston on Monday, I take it. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:51:01.930" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16301" PostId="10902" Text="http://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsCoreParams%2CSpecsBatteryNew%2CSpecsZoomTele%2CAnnouncementYear&amp;includeDiscontinued=No&amp;sort=newestFirst&amp;view=list&amp;page=1&amp;paramSpecsCoreParamsBodyType=UltraCompact%2CCompact&amp;paramSpecsBatteryNew=AA%2CAAA&amp;paramSpecsZoomTele=100%2B&amp;paramAnnouncementYearMin=2010" CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:54:42.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16302" PostId="10903" Text="+1. I was going to suggest the same thing. If it's good enough for spammers solving captchas, it's good enough for this. :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-13T23:55:31.477" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16303" PostId="10900" Score="1" Text="I hate to bring this up, but you should also google &quot;photocrazy patent&quot; before you get too far into this. IANAL, TINLA." CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:04:47.867" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16304" PostId="10907" Score="6" Text="LWZ is not RLE. http://marknelson.us/1989/10/01/lzw-data-compression/ " CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:20:32.493" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16305" PostId="10899" Text="The ETTR advice _may_ be out of date. http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-k-5-forum/135603-isoless-sensor.html **Huge disclaimer:** I personally have no idea. I just read this and found it interesting." CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:24:05.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16306" PostId="10882" Score="1" Text="It's also worth noting that XMP is a standard that relies on the software reading the exported file having correctly implemented XMP on the receiving end in order to successfully render edits made in Lightroom. I've seen behaviors in 3rd-party apps on import of images with XMP sidecar that range from partial render, to out-and-out deletion of XMP data that the app doesn't understand. It's not a 'dealbreaker' per-se (except that the OP seems to have a lot of 'fear'), but it does potentially limit what apps a user can switch to should they decide to ditch Lightroom, short of exporting to TIFF." CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:40:16.497" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16307" PostId="10835" Text="@jrista Thanks, So for framing, I just need to get far from the subject and for DOF/Bokeh, I need to get 100mm." CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:42:20.197" UserId="4703" />
  <row Id="16308" PostId="10546" Text="@John Really? That's very odd. I'm using Magic Lantern 550D firmware when shooting video, so maybe that's 'fixing' a bitrate issue or something? I'm really sorry to have recommended that card if it doesn't work for you. [EDIT] The one I recommended was the 'Ultra' version of the same card. This is just standard. They're still Class 4, but the 'Ultra' is faster, I believe." CreationDate="2011-04-14T01:04:28.323" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="16309" PostId="10760" Text="@mattdm - Done &amp; thanks for your active participation on this site!!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T01:37:17.457" UserId="892" />
  <row Id="16310" PostId="10906" Score="2" Text="Just in case there was any doubt: Both LZW and ZIP are lossless compression, so there's no degradation of image quality with either. The &quot;best&quot; algorithm will pretty much be whichever one produces smaller files, although there could also be compatibility issues with older software, as John Cavan mentioned in his response." CreationDate="2011-04-14T01:44:21.050" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16311" PostId="10898" Text="I use underexposing only when I take a photo and the sky is clipped from blue to white. I underexpose a little and take another photo, then later I push up the exposure in a tool that will keep the sky blue. On newer cameras (D90, D7000) with Active D-Lighting, etc. this can be done automatically." CreationDate="2011-04-14T01:48:36.050" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="16312" PostId="10899" Text="@mmr - I'm not sold on ETTR either. Matt's post is one reason, I've read this before since I'm a K-5 shooter, but my own experience suggests that as well: http://www.grumpyjohns.com/2010/pentax_k-5_and_an_exposure_oops/ " CreationDate="2011-04-14T01:52:55.100" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16313" PostId="10835" Text="@stdiomohawk: Pretty much. With the 100mm, you'll have a greater working distance, but the bokeh should be much nicer." CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:15:23.033" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16314" PostId="10882" Text="Very good point Jay." CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:26:15.757" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16315" PostId="10546" Text="@crashdown, don't worry I appreciate your advice, I am wondering if there is something else going on, I really don't understand how a class 4 sdhc card at 720p can't go much longer than a plain 5 year old sd card at 1080p.. doesn't seem right to me. I dunno though, I think next time I'll try class 10 and if I experience the same issue then I know something is up." CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:27:25.757" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="16316" PostId="10899" Text="@John Cavan - Ya I'm not really sold on it either, especially for modern sensors." CreationDate="2011-04-14T02:40:55.023" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16317" PostId="10904" Text="My son's Scout Troop does some volunteering at running races, and every once in a while I end up helping around the start-finish line.  Hooking into the ID system they're using to track the runners would definitely be the way to go here, if you can manage it." CreationDate="2011-04-14T03:04:31.040" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16318" PostId="10898" Score="4" Text="Just expose correctly, and save yourself time having to adjust in post production. " CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:05:40.000" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16319" PostId="10913" Score="3" Text="I'm sorry, but this isn't the proper forum for such questions. I recommend a Bing or Google image search, however beware of copyright issues if you intend to use the photo in any of your own works or republish it anywhere." CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:12:47.483" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16320" PostId="10295" Text="Ah! Sorry, totally misunderstood your question. I think all you really need to do, in that case, is resize the image for NTSC resolution (which is pretty darn low...480 lines), then crop to 4:3 ratio. If your taking your own photos from a 3:2 ratio camera, then your only option is to crop...any other scaling *will* skew the image." CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:21:02.653" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16321" PostId="57" Text="As an objective counterpoint to many of the assertions below--bolstering some of them, casting doubt on others--check out the [lenstip review on UV filters](http://www.lenstip.com/113.4-article-UV_filters_test_Description_of_the_results_and_summary.html).  Filters were rated on transmission, flare, and vignetting.  Some of the photos of the highest-rated filters actually seem to *improve* color saturation and contrast slightly.  The lowest rated-ones did not perform even as well as an old piece of window glass!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:28:28.567" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16322" PostId="10394" Score="1" Text="I would agree to your assessment for #1 and #2. As for #3, I would certainly recommend that you get a book or do some online research to learn about exposure, how to control it, what constitutes &quot;good&quot; and &quot;bad&quot; exposure in various types of photography. I would also encourage you to look into artistic books or online tutorials that teach you about the more subjective (i.e. eye of the photographer) type stuff." CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:29:48.957" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16323" PostId="10829" Text="I'm talking more of virtual structures than physical ones - you can't really do a lattice with all virtual structures (well you kind of can with symbolic links but it's a mess to maintain, in Aperture you can just maintain a structure of albums).  Even in Aperture it's just awfully hard to properly tag every image." CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:46:53.007" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16324" PostId="10900" Text="'I hate to bring this up, but you should also google &quot;photocrazy patent&quot;'. I agree. That guy is law-suit happy, and this question would walk right into the domain he claims his &quot;patents&quot; cover. I don't know if he's had them revoked yet, but there were people trying." CreationDate="2011-04-14T04:53:14.423" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16325" PostId="10900" Text="This is [Sportsshooter.com's thread](http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=28052) about the guy. At the time he was sending cease and desist letters to any photographer who had event photos on their site claiming it was a patent violation. Since I'd written all my own processing code and wasn't using anything like his system I laughed him off, but, from the thread, you can see some big companies got involved." CreationDate="2011-04-14T05:01:24.263" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16326" PostId="10829" Text="I have been using lightroom for about a year, I guess, and I've found it pretty easy to tag. There are a variety of ways to do it, from selecting each single image and adding tags, selecting a bunch of images and adding tags, or even &quot;painting&quot; on tags with a tool. Even when I have a shoot with hundreds of shots, it doesn't take all that long to tag in bulk on import, do a few quick passes and bulk tag and stack groups of shots, then in a final pass select picks and discards, and do some more extensive manual tagging and metadata edits on the picks. " CreationDate="2011-04-14T05:16:37.233" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16327" PostId="10829" Text="I'm not exactly sure how it works in Aperture, but the times I've used it in the past, it seemed pretty similar. The Album's feature you mention sounds like Static Collections in Lightroom. Collections are a way of defining hierarchical structures that contain specific selections photos, which sounds like the same thing. There are also Smart Collections, which are dynamic selections of photos based on metadata. I also thought Aperture supported something similar to Smart Collections...does it not?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T05:18:15.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16328" PostId="10829" Text="It's very easy to tag in Aperture.  What's hard is figuring out the right set of tags for any one photo, to go to the trouble of actually tagging everything.  That is hard.  Yes Aperture supports smart collections of any type as well.  The organizational abilities of Aperture are what kept me from switching to Lightroom.  Remember please this is a thread asking about what Aperture can do an not a Lightroom/Aperture debate." CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:08:20.630" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16329" PostId="10914" Score="1" Text="This may be relevant: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3789/what-factors-determine-the-lowest-iso-for-a-camera" CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:17:51.937" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16330" PostId="10914" Text="Also see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9051/where-do-iso-numbers-come-from for further background..." CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:43:29.903" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16331" PostId="10797" Text="the idea for that hockey game is to pre-focus on a spot you want to capture before the action starts, then set the camera to manual focus and keep that distance locked in. I use the same technique photographing aircraft demonstration teams, which fly too fast to use AF accurately even in good weather. It takes some practice, but it works well (especially if you have enough light to stop down some, increasing the field that's in focus)." CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:44:00.027" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16332" PostId="10898" Text="+1 for Greg. I'm one of those old fashioned guys as well who believes in getting things right in camera." CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:46:50.883" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16333" PostId="10896" Score="1" Text="lossy vs. lossless compression is largely irrelevant for printing, as it only really becomes a problem (giving minimum compression during saving) when doing many consecutive load-edit-save operations on a JPEG. When saving a JPEG at minimum compression for printing from a TIFF or RAW original, you'll never notice. And that's my workflow. The shop I use accepts only JPEG (and by now I think PNG). I save the NEF, work on a TIFF, and save a copy of that as JPEG for printing which gets archived for future duplication." CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:51:05.183" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16334" PostId="10874" Text="@whuber: thanks for the link, but I know of that article and as @mattdm points out, the article predates the Hoya HD filter nor does it include the Nikon filter. I totally agree with you that the test movies are not interesting and that their graphs are ... uninformative and biased :-). I though I was able to find these Marumi polarization filters, but I can only get my hands on Marumi MC CPL filters, which are two classes lower than the apparently excellent Marumi Super DHG. Sadly enough, shipping costs are prohibitive to order in the US. And @Itai, thanks for sharing your user experience!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T06:52:06.650" UserId="4708" />
  <row Id="16335" PostId="10898" Score="1" Text="@greg perhaps we are using the term underexpose differently, but if underexposing leads to a better photo then I would argue that is exposing correctly. I don't think anyone here is asking how to expose incorrectly :)" CreationDate="2011-04-14T07:34:20.667" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16336" PostId="10859" Text="@Itai could you add checkboxes in the results page to narrow results, instead of &lt;li/&gt;? It would be helpful if I want to check &quot;Longest Focal&quot; not only 85mm or 70mm, but both and even more. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-04-14T07:56:37.017" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="16337" PostId="10862" Text="Thanks, it helped me in the tedious search! This doesn't give me possibility to narrow the results as I wanted (and described in my question), but a descriptive design helped me even better." CreationDate="2011-04-14T07:59:53.817" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="16338" PostId="10916" Score="1" Text="+1. Once pixels are blocked out or burned in there's nothing that can be done with them. I shoot RAW 99% of the time, and even then noise creeps in when I start bumping up the exposure. I've never heard any big name shooters say to under or over expose to get better photos, nor do Canon or Nikon recommend it, but I have heard several pros and reps say to NOT do it." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:18:43.703" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16339" PostId="10896" Text="@jwenting: I agree. That's usually easier for print shops not to deal with clients that don't know anything about colour spaces and file formats. And JPEGs are supported by OSes by default. TIFFs are not. Anyway. It also depends what you mean by *printing*. Is it just getting your photos or is it digital offset printing or is it maybe press printing. Each of them requires different things. But for backup purposes I'd rather use either compressed RAWs or TIFFs. You could also compress your backup folder on the system level ans save your RAWs in it." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:24:08.817" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16340" PostId="10912" Text="+1. Well said. I trust my light meter more than the LCD histogram, but the LCD is a close second. Of course, the old open sky trick, metering 45 degrees up with my back to the sun works well in a pinch too. " CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:26:34.730" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16341" PostId="10898" Text="There is a huge difference in creatively underexposing, and in under/over exposing it all the time thinking it will result in better quality photos." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:30:24.820" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16342" PostId="10901" Text="You're right that blacks are just as hard to recover as whites... But this underexposure may hold some water though. If we take into consideration that cameras tend to expose to 18% gray, it means that it's much more likely images will have overexposed parts (pure white) than underexposed ones (pure black). It's just 18% to pure white but 82% to pure black. Underexposing does make some sense anyway. And to say the least that camera's correct exposure is quite often too bright for my taste which is not proper exposure." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:31:03.010" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16343" PostId="10916" Text="*Not correct exposure* by means of camera's 18% gray... You're right. But they may be **proper exposures** for human visual perception." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:34:08.810" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16344" PostId="10899" Score="3" Text="Basically in the absence of read noise, underexposing by lowering ISO gives protection against clipped highlights **with no penalty** since the amount of light entering the camera is the same, so is the noise. The K5 and d7000 have *very low* read noise so they get close to this situation. Exposing to the right **does still work** (and always will 'till the laws of physics change) but only (with these new models) if you get more light down the lens!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:39:32.877" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16345" PostId="10203" Score="1" Text="A good feature of JPEG XR is that it is computationally cheap, so would be feasible to implement for in-camera encoding for example.  JPEG 2000 is costly.  This is certainly a factor, although perhaps with the onward march of compute power not such a major one." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:47:24.563" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="16346" PostId="10901" Score="2" Text="@Robert: &quot;18% grey&quot; doesn't mean &quot;18% greyer than white&quot;, it means a reflectivity of 18% (on a scale where absolute black would be 0% reflectivity and absolute white 100%). On a perceptual (logarithmic) scale, the value appears to be about midway between black and white, but on a linear scale, it's a lot closer to black than it is to white." CreationDate="2011-04-14T08:59:00.063" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16347" PostId="10901" Text="@Stan: Well in this case I apologise because the info I've presented is quite the opposite. It's better to get closer to white cutoff then to get best possible level range." CreationDate="2011-04-14T09:08:25.660" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16348" PostId="10916" Text="@Robert - very true. I tend to work under the assumption that the widest dynamic range at the start gives me the biggest area to play in/fix up/edit curves later" CreationDate="2011-04-14T09:14:27.607" UserId="3011" />
  <row Id="16351" PostId="10885" Text="I seriously doubt that expensive DSLRs embody more advanced technology. If anything, for Nikon and Canon, who refuse to provide in-body stabilisation on the interchangeable-lense cameras, quite the reverse." CreationDate="2011-04-14T09:29:09.987" UserId="4663" />
  <row Id="16352" PostId="10909" Score="1" Text="If you're a new to digital photography, you should probably be shooting in JPEG. Why? In my first year of digital photography, I took in excess of 25k photos and the majority of them (i.e. &gt; 99%) would have benefited from better technique because no amount of RAW processing will teach you the basics of photography (composition, lighting, etc). I shot RAW which meant I was producing in excess of 250 GB of photos which weren't terribly exciting. RAW + JPG would have increased that significantly." CreationDate="2011-04-14T09:33:50.630" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16353" PostId="10765" Text="Presumably Foveon sensors do not exhibit this behaviour." CreationDate="2011-04-14T09:37:29.937" UserId="4663" />
  <row Id="16354" PostId="10918" Score="1" Text="-1 It's not just a cut off, it's a limitation of the sensor - the lowest ISO is determined by the saturation point of the photosites (pixels) i.e. how much light they can receive before becoming full. The Olympus cameras must have just set the min ISO higher than it could be for some reason." CreationDate="2011-04-14T10:20:41.533" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16355" PostId="10914" Text="Also, yes you could make the sensor less sensitive. But then it would be less sensitive all the time, you'd be crippling the low light performance for the sake of longer exposures in daylight. Not a good trade off when you can simply screw on an ND filter." CreationDate="2011-04-14T10:21:43.063" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16356" PostId="10909" Text="@Philip A fair point, but I'm mostly talking about experienced film photographers who are simply new to digital workflow. Folks like my dad, who got me started with composition and exposure when I was little." CreationDate="2011-04-14T11:11:25.980" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16358" PostId="10921" Text="+1 @ElendilTheTall: Thanks, HDR being &quot;High Dynamic Range&quot;, correct? Also, for those reading this, these appear to be finished examples of this post-production method: http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&amp;q=high+dynamic+range+photography" CreationDate="2011-04-14T12:08:36.813" UserId="4660" />
  <row Id="16359" PostId="10921" Score="1" Text="High Dynamic Range, yes: in other words from the very darkest to the very brightest." CreationDate="2011-04-14T12:21:29.200" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16360" PostId="10918" Text="Very informed - Olympus are faking out their users. " CreationDate="2011-04-14T12:25:41.103" UserId="4663" />
  <row Id="16361" PostId="10921" Text="There's different ways to compress a high-dynamic range scene into a final image, typically called an &quot;HDR image&quot;, although really the dynamic range is just compressed — the output media isn't (usually) special. One technique is called &quot;tone mapping&quot;, while the simple approach of blending bracketed exposures is &quot;exposure blending&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-14T12:35:48.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16362" PostId="10922" Score="1" Text="Hi @blunders — welcome to the site. Your link ended up not working. The question here seems quite broad in any case — maybe something we can't really answer. Are you looking for an actual book (or web site) that acts as a reference?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T12:37:56.807" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16363" PostId="10394" Score="1" Text="I was trying to get the book &quot;understanding exposure&quot;. Do you think that's a good one?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:02:33.770" UserId="1595" />
  <row Id="16364" PostId="10922" Text="+1 @mattdm: Fixed the link, and yes, it would need to be online. Also, agree that references are broad in nature, but as a resource is well defined I believe. If you have any additional questions, just let me know. Cheers!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:04:20.690" UserId="4660" />
  <row Id="16365" PostId="10674" Score="1" Text="Got the bag, it fits with the hood on and still room so spare." CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:13:03.690" UserId="2777" />
  <row Id="16366" PostId="10922" Score="1" Text="Well, now the link goes to _this page_....." CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:17:12.780" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16367" PostId="10922" Text="+1 @mattdm: wow, my bad, fixed and CHECKED it ...google the same query on google and saw a page I'd visited before (this page is already ranking better in google than the page I'm linking to at Wikipedia, odd) here's the google search, http://www.google.com/search?q=Photographic+Methods%2FTechniques" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:29:01.857" UserId="4660" />
  <row Id="16368" PostId="10901" Text="There is still a big difference between overexposing and underexposing. With overexposing you have only a small margin before the data is just cut off. When underexposing you have several stops before the data drowns in the noise. You can recover a severely underexposed image by the cost of higher noise, but with an overexposed image you can't even make that compromise, the data is simply lost." CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:31:09.267" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="16369" PostId="10922" Text="I'll be surprised if anything else online beats that Wikipedia listing. You could always turn to paper.... http://www.focalpress.com/books/photography/the_focal_encyclopedia_of_photography.aspx" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:41:22.603" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16370" PostId="10870" Score="1" Text="Although it should be ⌀ — http://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2300/index.htm :)" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:46:39.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16371" PostId="10906" Text="I'd suggest you test with a typical subset of your own images. LZW+Prediction gives smaller results with my typical 24bit-pictures and software ... but you use something different." CreationDate="2011-04-14T14:04:13.157" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16372" PostId="10926" Text="@Finer Recliner: That's more of a dictionary of photo terms than a &quot;Encyclopedia of Photographic Methods/Techniques&quot; -- thanks for posting though!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T14:08:21.927" UserId="4660" />
  <row Id="16373" PostId="9054" Text="Great answer. @Stan - after spending some time on the site, I'm always delighted to come across any of your answers - there's a poetry to them that elevates them above 'just the facts'. Keep up the good work" CreationDate="2011-04-14T14:09:43.860" UserId="3660" />
  <row Id="16374" PostId="10874" Text="@kvaruni Good comments.  I had no problem with shipping costs when I purchased the Marumi Super DHG from Amazon (US) last fall: shipping was free.  But availability seems to vary depending on filter size." CreationDate="2011-04-14T14:23:38.867" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16375" PostId="10922" Score="3" Text="Hey, give us time, we just got started less than a year ago!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T14:34:01.630" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16376" PostId="10922" Text="@John Cavan: ha. I mean, we could _start_ such a question as a community wiki, but I'm not sure of the value. @blunders, I think we're stronger here on questions _about_ a specific technique...." CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:06:10.383" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16377" PostId="10922" Text="@mattdm: That's fine, should I delete the question?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:35:25.877" UserId="4660" />
  <row Id="16378" PostId="10922" Score="2" Text="I'm not in charge or anything. I just don't think you're gonna get good answers. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:41:35.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16379" PostId="10922" Score="4" Text="There's a [list here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/tags) but it's broader than just techniques :-)." CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:42:39.673" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16380" PostId="10929" Text="Awesome -- a pre-set low bar!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:54:52.343" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16381" PostId="10898" Text="Um, is this about film or digital or does it matter?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:55:57.850" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16382" PostId="10769" Text="...and in addition, you'll have to re-learn for every lens. This certainly is impressive, but I doubt it's realistic for me to learn this ;) " CreationDate="2011-04-14T16:26:25.870" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="16383" PostId="10764" Text="@PeterT I'd choose a Leica with a few lenses over a car any day, but as a student, I simply can't afford it. However, as I want to try film photography anyway (see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9810/how-should-i-start-with-film-photography) - is it possible to get a cheaper, used rangefinder when you look into the non-digital area? Would it be worth posting this as a question?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T16:28:58.630" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="16384" PostId="10896" Text="few times I've sold things for magazine or commercial use the publisher wanted JPEG as well :) I prefer uncompressed TIFF over compressed because of potential compatibility issues (the compression system for TIFF is less firmly standardised than the uncompressed format, but maybe I'm paranoid). " CreationDate="2011-04-14T16:45:54.813" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16385" PostId="10769" Text="@eWolf: Having seen it, I'd agree -- it's not only unrealistic, but I don't really even have any ambition in that direction. As far as lenses go, I got the impression that he basically switched lenses with the seasons. When I saw him it was basketball season, and he was shooting a 70-200/2.8. He did say  he shot football once in a while, but liked it less because of the weight -- I'd guess that meant &quot;300/2.8&quot;. In any case, the impression I got was that yes, he basically switched lenses about three times a year, with the sports seasons." CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:02:34.113" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16386" PostId="10928" Score="10" Text="I think your art history friend is confused. A still life is a composition with an arrangement of inanimate objects." CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:07:39.270" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16388" PostId="10928" Score="3" Text="I would also add that still life _does_ have a specific meaning, and that fireworks probably doesn't fall under it, and that generally, pictures of flowers in nature don't either. The _arrangement_ is important." CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:29:31.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16389" PostId="10934" Score="2" Text="Shooting film still requres post processing, and some film photographers perform more PP than their digital counterparts!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:38:49.797" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16390" PostId="10934" Text="ahh, sorry, I meant *digital* post processing." CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:40:05.133" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="16391" PostId="10900" Text="There's an ongoing Google Summer of Code project revolving on the issue and it could be interesting to see what they'll come up with: http://wiki.hiit.fi/display/gsoc2011/Crowdsourcing+toolbox+for+image+tagging" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:41:42.673" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16392" PostId="10931" Score="1" Text="Usefulness, okay. Truthfulness, though? Care to elaborate on that?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:45:12.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16393" PostId="10931" Text="The question of fine art and beauty is also an interesting (albeit highly academic) one, and arguably one the biggest question in art in the last century." CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:47:00.533" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16394" PostId="10928" Text="@mattdm you'll note I said &quot;major&quot; and not &quot;graduate&quot;. I agree she's a wee bit off base, but haven't found a very satisfying definition. Hence the question." CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:52:02.257" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16395" PostId="10898" Score="3" Text="It used to matter with films like Velvia because it was super-saturated. Some people pushed it a bit to lessen the contrast, others pulled it a bit to improve color saturation. If I remember right, the early digitals had less latitude than color print film, but the current ones are better latitude than film. The increased latitude should mean there is less reason to under/over expose especially when shooting RAW. I haven't cared much since switching to digital and moving from Velvia/Provia because my RAW images were plenty good when exposed correctly." CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:03:05.027" UserId="1514" />
  <row Id="16396" PostId="10764" Text="@eWolf; it's certainly possible to get a film rangefinder without spending thousands. I don't know how good the old soviet ones are, for instance - but you can almost certainly find that if you don't get too stuck on a brand like Leica then costs go down massively. There's also the argument that expensive ones like Leicas should hold their value.  It's not really something I have much experience of though, you're probably better off posting a question. If you enjoy a more conversational style, try http://mflenses.com/ forum too." CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:06:10.253" UserId="2063" />
  <row Id="16397" PostId="10937" Text="+1 Thanks @Jerry. Good answers." CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:18:17.307" UserId="4741" />
  <row Id="16398" PostId="10934" Text="+1 Thanks. It is a good answer too." CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:18:58.320" UserId="4741" />
  <row Id="16399" PostId="10896" Text="@jwenting: You're right about TIFF compression support (lthough LZW is quite widely supported). But if I'd be saving uncompressed TIFFs (for compatibility purposes) I'd save them in compressed folders (I don't know about Macs but Windows support this folder feature. Such folders are usually displayed in blue colour in Windows Explorer). This way my TIFFs would be uncompressed but would take similar disk space as if they were compressed." CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:37:23.920" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16401" PostId="10931" Score="5" Text="@mattdm. truthfulness in this case means it need not more or less  accurately depict any thing or any event. For example product photography, family photography or photojournalism are required to be, in some sense, truthful. Fine art does not have these constraints, it pursues aesthetic beauty regardless. Or to put it another way, the aesthetic beauty of the result takes precedence over truthfulness." CreationDate="2011-04-14T18:45:23.190" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16402" PostId="10939" Text="But since the Pentax DA* 300/4 actually covers the full 35mm frame, and Pentax's patent filing suggests that it was designed as a FF lens, I would hesitate to attribute the size/weight savings to an APS-C design. (The higher cost of Pentax is probably because it is produced in much smaller quantity than Canon/Nikon). http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/31629-da-lens-full-frame-test-shots-thread-2.html#post317890 http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-slr-lens-discussion/31629-da-lens-full-frame-test-shots-thread-9.html#post1045737" CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:12:45.107" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16403" PostId="10822" Text="With that amount of images, do you keep them all in a single library, or do you spread them out in multiple libraries?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:14:08.503" UserId="4559" />
  <row Id="16404" PostId="10940" Text="+1 for giving the added context around when that advice could actually make sense." CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:17:30.717" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16405" PostId="10936" Text="One of the comments you referenced said this 'For me the primary criteria for art is that it must convey a meaning, emotion or idea that transcends the subject of the piece'. Agreed. But remember the adjective 'Fine' conveys the idea of excellence. So Fine Art is art that strives for (or achieves) excellence in the way that it 'conveys a meaning, emotion or idea'. Specifically that excellence is recognised as aesthetic beauty." CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:23:59.147" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16407" PostId="10829" Text="I was not trying to debate, just trying to verify that Aperture had the same capabilities as Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-04-14T20:02:00.633" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16408" PostId="10936" Text="I think there's a lot of room to argue over what exactly &quot;fine&quot; implies. I'm good with the definition you give, but I think it might be too narrow to encompass everything one might find hung on the walls of a &quot;museum of fine art&quot; or a &quot;gallery of fine art&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-14T20:30:28.113" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16409" PostId="10933" Score="3" Text="By the edited version of this, the answer is &quot;yes, by tautology&quot; — which leaves one wondering what the actual question is. It seems to be an argument looking for agreement (or to pick a fight with those who might disagree). See the section in the FAQ titled **&quot;What kind of questions should I not ask here?&quot;** http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq" CreationDate="2011-04-14T20:37:10.417" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16410" PostId="10943" Text="@Carol, while SD cards as they interface with computers are on-topic for Super User, your question is more about using it on the camera, so it would be a better question for the photos site, as @DragonLord mentioned, so I am migrating it to the photography site for you." CreationDate="2011-04-14T21:03:06.233" />
  <row Id="16411" PostId="10944" Score="6" Text="It would be better to format it from the camera. Some cameras (though this is less common now) must format the card on-camera for it to work properly." CreationDate="2011-04-12T07:23:05.607" />
  <row Id="16412" PostId="10943" Score="5" Text="We probably need to identify the problem before it becomes about reformatting an SD card, can you post some examples?" CreationDate="2011-04-14T21:12:17.767" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16413" PostId="10943" Score="1" Text="I would agree with @rfusca here...some example images would be extremely helpful in narrowing down the cause of the problem." CreationDate="2011-04-14T21:22:24.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16414" PostId="10943" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1988/how-often-should-memory-cards-be-formatted" CreationDate="2011-04-14T21:43:55.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16415" PostId="10394" Score="1" Text="@Luciano - yes, its a great book" CreationDate="2011-04-14T22:05:42.073" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16416" PostId="10950" Text="Awesome! thanks. They really do look like exactly what I need, and I know RRS makes nice gear." CreationDate="2011-04-14T22:33:20.297" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="16417" PostId="10822" Text="I keep them in separate libraries, professional work divided by client, and personal work divided by year. I used to keep everything in one big library (and for simplicity, I still wish that I could, honestly), but I found the load times and management times associated with such a large database were bogging down my workflow to an unacceptable level." CreationDate="2011-04-14T22:33:52.280" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16418" PostId="10933" Score="2" Text="Whether it was the OPs intent or not, the question reads as argumentative enough that I think it's simply going to be a magnet for downvotes. In addition, I think the question doesn't really add a lot to the body of knowledge, because it's just not all that *useful* of a question. With that in mind, I've voted to close the question..." CreationDate="2011-04-14T22:40:12.483" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16419" PostId="10952" Score="4" Text="Yeah. Although if certain bits of the jpeg data are messed up up, it could show as blocky artifacts which _might_ be described as blotches of wrong color. A sample image will tell." CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:07:15.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16420" PostId="10951" Text="Yeah, I've got a tripod that'll do the splayed leg thing, but I'm still in the market for something sized like this. The specific reason is that I do a fair bit of indoor shooting (with people/customers around) where I don't have the luxury of taking up that much room. I'm currently handholding a lot of these shots, which is far from ideal in a dark environment." CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:16:22.830" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="16421" PostId="10933" Score="1" Text="Just to put this into some kind of perspective, Ansel Adams (who was among the most fastidious *ever* at doing things right at the time of capture -- if we extend &quot;time of capture&quot; to include both the moment of exposure and specific development for dynamic range) likened his negatives to a mere &quot;score&quot;; for him, the &quot;performance&quot; was the print, which almost always involved extensive dodging and burning to achieve his vision. And Yousuf Karsh spent a good deal of time *spotting* every portrait he ever made. Just sayin'." CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:17:06.340" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16422" PostId="1287" Text="And if you didn't do this, you can at least recover the body serials from the EXIF data. But save yourself the hassle and write them down first!" CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:20:32.453" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="16424" PostId="10914" Text="Thanks for the referrals, all. Slightly annoyed that those others didn't come up both when searching, nor within the &quot;suggested similar questions&quot; section when you post the question. Nevermind - Thanks for the help, all." CreationDate="2011-04-14T23:47:23.723" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="16425" PostId="10933" Score="1" Text="I'd personally love to meet the photographer that can produce good results for ***every single shot***. I don't think such a person actually exists, however." CreationDate="2011-04-15T00:13:32.257" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16426" PostId="10957" Text="I don't know about &quot;better&quot;, but it's certainly a bit different. Thanks for the link. I've always been skeptical about those being strong enough to hold a larger lens/camera combo. Thanks for the feedback. It's certainly a lot cheaper." CreationDate="2011-04-15T00:24:34.153" UserId="1678" />
  <row Id="16427" PostId="10936" Text="there is much to be said about &quot;making art intentionally&quot;, and whether some photos are art or not. I'd say everything can be art; maybe not good art, but still art. Consciousness is rather relative, here: i doubt the prehistoric folks were very conscious of the artness of the drawings they made on cave walls :)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T00:28:42.303" UserId="3462" />
  <row Id="16428" PostId="1288" Text="Does the bride have to use the same groom the second time through?" CreationDate="2011-04-15T00:46:49.743" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16429" PostId="10957" Text="Ah the product image doesn't to that tripod justice. These two are very different classifications. Looking at RRS's web page, the tripod is actually quite a bit larger." CreationDate="2011-04-15T00:59:07.707" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="16430" PostId="10922" Text="I don't think so... What do you need know that you haven't found it in Wikipedia?" CreationDate="2011-04-15T02:10:42.170" UserId="4727" />
  <row Id="16431" PostId="10952" Text="I was wondering about that but it seems way more likely the whole file would get corrupted in that case.  I agree a sample image is really necessary to tell what is going on." CreationDate="2011-04-15T02:34:45.370" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16432" PostId="10951" Text="It sure sounds like this would be a great option then.  I have a Really Right Stuff plate on my tripod head and love it.  They make great gear." CreationDate="2011-04-15T02:35:47.587" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16433" PostId="10933" Text="Okay then. From now on I will not insist on not using post processing software. :D" CreationDate="2011-04-15T04:42:57.390" UserId="4741" />
  <row Id="16434" PostId="10919" Text="Welcome! Nice answer." CreationDate="2011-04-15T04:54:31.217" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16435" PostId="10943" Score="2" Text="The cameras also have you -- your technique and your picture preferences -- in common. Without seeing sample images (and knowing what sort of camera you are using) we can give no definitive diagnostics, but if you are doing macro work without a flash there's a reasonable chance that what you are seeing is chrominance noise, particularly if you are using a &quot;compact&quot; or &quot;superzoom&quot; type of camera (the macro mode usually increases the ISO setting to allow faster shutter speeds to minimize blurring). Your daughter, taking different pictures, would not see the same effect." CreationDate="2011-04-15T05:14:08.337" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16436" PostId="10885" Text="@Marcin, I worded my answer carefully to avoid suggesting that there is more R&amp;D involved in the specialist cameras. Instead, I am arguing R&amp;D costs *per unit sold* are higher." CreationDate="2011-04-15T08:41:33.777" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="16437" PostId="10772" Text="@Sean, @whuber, please enter your suggestions as answers rather than comments, (see the big text box at the bottom of the page) so they can be voted upon and edited." CreationDate="2011-04-15T08:46:39.173" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="16438" PostId="1523" Text="@jrista: Can you point me to one Nikon review on his site (that doesn't say that content provided is part of a bulk upload)? Because I surely can't find any. But he's surely marvellous at Canon gear. +1" CreationDate="2011-04-15T09:50:05.027" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16439" PostId="10933" Score="1" Text="I think @mattdm is right about the banality of the question and that it &quot;seems to be … looking for agreement&quot;. But I think the question reflects the non-photographer viewpoint rather well; especially the current trend to strive for everything organic (nothing *wrong* with that). In addition, @Jerry Coffin's answer shows the whole question in better light. I think photographer and editor are distinct terms, though not mutually exclusive: one person can be both — when editing heshe is the editor, when photographing heshe is the photographer. " CreationDate="2011-04-15T10:03:47.633" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16440" PostId="10963" Score="1" Text="All this, and take a _lot_ of shots. Continuous/drive mode is your friend." CreationDate="2011-04-15T10:42:04.900" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16441" PostId="10958" Text="Note that this is a followup to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10836/" CreationDate="2011-04-15T10:57:55.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16442" PostId="10958" Score="1" Text="@PRK: Please take a look at http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/. Rather than asking a similar question about each of a series of options, a better way to frame the question might be &quot;how do I choose a second lens?&quot;, or, in this case, &quot;how do I choose my first zoom lens?&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-15T11:30:15.677" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16443" PostId="10885" Text="@Oddthinking: Unless the technology is exclusively used in the higher end cameras, there is no accounting justification for allocating a greater proportion of the price of the camera to R&amp;D costs. Accordingly, amortisation of R&amp;D costs cannot *drive* the higher price of the more expensive camera units." CreationDate="2011-04-15T11:58:54.463" UserId="4663" />
  <row Id="16444" PostId="10936" Score="1" Text="@JoséNunoFerreira, in my region where we do a lot of mountain hiking we see many examples of rock art. There is intense debate about their meaning and in my opinion the matter is still not understood. But what is striking is that for the most part we agree that these simple paintings are stylistic representations of surprising artistic quality. Did they see it that way? Or is this wishful projection on our part? We have no way of knowing but I find myself wanting to believe that these hard hunters in a rugged landscape saw beauty and felt the need to reproduce it." CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:01:30.560" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16445" PostId="10931" Text="In other words, Beauty with a capital letter, but not concerned with lower-case truth. " CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:13:49.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16446" PostId="10962" Score="2" Text="You could try something like this? http://tolweb.org/Testudines" CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:14:00.373" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16447" PostId="10962" Score="16" Text="`fd 50 rt 90 fd 50 lt 132`  Ooops, sorry, wrong stackechange site. " CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:49:24.417" UserId="2811" />
  <row Id="16448" PostId="10962" Score="1" Text="On its back. Then flip the shot :P" CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:53:31.727" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="16449" PostId="10933" Text="High-class photographers? Like the Royal Family?" CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:58:55.893" UserId="1616" />
  <row Id="16450" PostId="10963" Score="10" Text="@Elendil For a turtle, you could probably get by with an intervalometer instead of continuous drive." CreationDate="2011-04-15T12:59:46.460" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16451" PostId="10962" Score="1" Text="This question appeared exactly two weeks late." CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:05:22.423" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16452" PostId="10963" Text="@Stan perfect . exactly what i needed !" CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:09:50.270" UserId="3254" />
  <row Id="16453" PostId="10962" Score="4" Text="This question is awesome. Made me smile. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:26:28.910" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16454" PostId="10965" Score="2" Text="A polarizing filter could help with the glare from the shell." CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:29:20.683" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16455" PostId="10965" Score="1" Text="@coneslayer: Reduce or enhance? :)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:42:23.610" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="16456" PostId="10965" Score="1" Text="@coneslayer - Great point.  If it's a staged shoot, though, hopefully the lighting is controlled a little better than this." CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:45:49.767" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16457" PostId="10962" Score="2" Text="@Jan Hlavacek, tut-tut!" CreationDate="2011-04-15T13:53:37.953" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16458" PostId="10965" Text="@d thank you ! great additional notes" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:06:44.103" UserId="3254" />
  <row Id="16459" PostId="10965" Score="1" Text="@Guffa, Either, depending on the orientation of the filter, and you'll have time to try both!" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:16:50.280" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16460" PostId="10962" Score="3" Text="Major points from me if you decide to dress it as a teenage ninja too." CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:34:56.353" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16461" PostId="10966" Score="4" Text="Cool picture! I like it. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:40:04.200" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16462" PostId="10952" Text="&quot;it seems way more likely&quot; and &quot;there is NO WAY&quot; are kind of mutually exclusive btw" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:45:33.743" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16463" PostId="10968" Score="1" Text="+1 - Crowdsourcing your answer is probably the best bet." CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:46:41.917" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16465" PostId="10962" Score="7" Text="Possible duplicate of http://stackoverflow.com/q/1003841/463065" CreationDate="2011-04-15T14:57:06.610" UserId="2738" />
  <row Id="16466" PostId="10966" Score="2" Text="FWIW, that looks like Half-Dome at Yosemite." CreationDate="2011-04-15T15:01:38.580" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16467" PostId="10966" Score="4" Text="I like how the hikers appear to be going straight up a sheer cliff." CreationDate="2011-04-15T15:12:47.430" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="16468" PostId="10964" Text="Thanks that was quite helpful. Knowing how others began their journey helps beginners like us a lot..:)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T15:57:10.027" UserId="4481" />
  <row Id="16469" PostId="10952" Score="1" Text="Not rhetorically." CreationDate="2011-04-15T15:57:27.423" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="16470" PostId="10958" Text="Yes mattdm.Will keep this in mind. Actually I am very confused as there are so many lens to choose from." CreationDate="2011-04-15T15:59:56.220" UserId="4481" />
  <row Id="16471" PostId="10966" Text="@D. Lambert Thanks a lot, this seems to be correct!" CreationDate="2011-04-15T16:36:47.730" UserId="4753" />
  <row Id="16472" PostId="353" Text="I have a Canon T1i so I bought a Canon 50mm f/1.4 which was close to $400 and it works great in low light.  However, I believe that the f/1.8 is only $99!!!  I bought the f/1.4 since I will probably never need to buy anything better for that range... I think the f/1.2 is over $1000!  One more difference between the f/1.4 and the f/1.8... the f/1.4 is small, but has a metal body so it is heavier and more durable than it's f/1.8 brother." CreationDate="2011-04-15T17:11:21.063" UserId="3533" />
  <row Id="16473" PostId="10969" Text="I just tried google goggles on this image, and the result was Yosemite National Park... Did it get it right?? :)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T17:37:23.763" UserId="415" />
  <row Id="16474" PostId="10968" Score="1" Text="yay for the masses! The only thing better than individuality is groupthink. Well, maybe. I mean what do you guys think?" CreationDate="2011-04-15T17:42:53.107" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16475" PostId="10969" Text="I wonder if this uses some geographic information from your phone's location to &quot;help it out&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-04-15T17:44:25.633" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16476" PostId="10969" Text="+1 Cool answer! I have tried google goggles but was a bit disappointed, then again, I took a photo of the Schrödinger equation... If this works out, that would be mighty useful!" CreationDate="2011-04-15T17:45:12.480" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16477" PostId="10970" Text="Didn't know about this, neeto!" CreationDate="2011-04-15T17:45:41.293" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16478" PostId="10901" Text="I agree with @Guffa here. I think that in practice one more often finds blown out parts (like sky, a white dress, etc.) than pitch black parts.&#xA;&#xA;It's subjective, but I'd rather go with a blue sky, a dress with details and a little noise in the dark parts then a blown out dress and sky with less noise.&#xA;&#xA;And the thing is: those bright parts of the picture draw the eye, so they are more important (at least that's what I think)." CreationDate="2011-04-15T19:29:50.103" UserId="4725" />
  <row Id="16479" PostId="10974" Text="Damnit -- don't have that one. Will have to go hunting at the CWRU software center!" CreationDate="2011-04-15T19:34:45.580" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="16480" PostId="10973" Score="2" Text="Dangerously close to a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10029/is-there-an-easy-way-to-convert-all-my-photos-from-nef-to-jpg; the only difference being the &quot;fast&quot; requirement." CreationDate="2011-04-15T19:46:30.707" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="16481" PostId="10973" Text="@Craig Walker: ironically, since that one just is asking for versions to upload to Facebook, the quite fast solution of extracting the jpeg preview might be sufficient, but probably woudn't be here...." CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:14:41.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16482" PostId="10975" Text="Hm. Doubt it. NEFs are ~10 MByte, easily cached big chunks of a predictable accessed directory, results may be of the same size, easily cached on writing. Unless his RAM has to be swapped, no danger of disk thrashing." CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:15:40.273" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16483" PostId="10975" Text="@Leonidas: You may easily have a point -- given who slow Ps apparently is at it, you probably wouldn't overload the disk. I'm more accustomed to Bibble, which I'm pretty sure would. To put it in perspective though, I just did a quick test converting 156 raws to JPEG, which took about 3 minutes..." CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:30:36.203" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16484" PostId="10963" Score="3" Text="In addition to the advice here, I might suggest having several stand-in turtles. Sometimes turtles just don't feel like performing on demand. And the heat from the lights will tend to make them more active. Keep them warm and they'll be more likely to dance for you." CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:43:08.200" UserId="165" />
  <row Id="16485" PostId="10975" Text="The bottleneck on this box is CPU time, not disk access. (It's on an SSD in any case)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:59:29.410" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="16486" PostId="10973" Text="@Craig + @mattdm: Actually what it says in there is what I'm using -- but waiting hours to get a single SD card of pictures in JPEG is kind of annoying." CreationDate="2011-04-15T21:09:58.390" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="16487" PostId="10973" Text="Just checking.... Are you running this _on_ the SD card? That might contribute to slowness. " CreationDate="2011-04-15T21:38:27.830" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16488" PostId="10973" Text="@mattdm: No. The process is CPU limited (I verified this in Process Explorer). The images themselves are sitting on an OCZ Vertex 2 which can feed some 200MB/s+ -- if secondary storage was the limiting factor then it would convert all hundred or so images in under two seconds." CreationDate="2011-04-15T22:37:10.080" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="16489" PostId="10973" Text="Just checking. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-15T22:52:33.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16490" PostId="10976" Text="Hmm...to put this in perspective, I'm getting almost exactly 1 second per picture with Bibble. My box is nothing to get very excited about either -- an Athlon 64 X2 @ 2.6 GHz with very ordinary hard disks (no SSDs, 10K drives, or anything like that)." CreationDate="2011-04-15T22:52:52.253" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16491" PostId="10969" Text="@Roberto, yes Half Dome is in Yosemite." CreationDate="2011-04-15T23:23:19.077" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16492" PostId="10970" Text="+1 It actually works." CreationDate="2011-04-15T23:47:22.730" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16493" PostId="10974" Text="I would second using Lightroom. Since it is multi-threaded, you can queue up a bunch of export batches, and it will process them very efficiently. Since you have an SSD, the speed should be superb, and if you have it properly configured at the hardware/bios level, Lightroom might even be able to perform multiple concurrent streaming operations to it." CreationDate="2011-04-16T00:11:14.563" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16494" PostId="10962" Text="turtles have never received as much aesthetic attention as today" CreationDate="2011-04-16T00:28:11.243" UserId="3254" />
  <row Id="16495" PostId="10976" Text="@Jerry: As I wrote: it will depend on your parameters too. Just ran a quick test with three conversions of the same picture in a row: _corrected-standard-corrected_ (corrections: colour, denoising, more sharpening, curves applied, saturation/brightness adjusted) with RawTherapee. About 15 secs are due to the Amaze-demosaicing (could have changed that) but then _standard_ with total 30 seconds and _corrected_ with 54 seconds still differ a lot." CreationDate="2011-04-16T00:41:17.320" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16496" PostId="10975" Text="@Jerry: Basically eating big files sequentially and writing them the same way is one of the best-case-scenarios for a HDD because it is so nicely predictable. Even ten year old PATA-connected HDDs easily make their max 30 MByte/s that way, not counting that your OS today often defers writing. I'd guess that - virus-scanner turned off - your CPU is nicely loaded with Bibble too." CreationDate="2011-04-16T01:00:41.540" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16497" PostId="10978" Text="Relevant: [Thom Hogan's review](http://www.bythom.com/1750lens.htm) -- &quot;this lens is smaller and lighter than the [Nikkor](http://www.bythom.com/1755lens.htm), yet except at 17mm, holds its own against that lens.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-16T01:34:53.377" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16498" PostId="10885" Text="@Marcin, oh I see where we were at odds now. I was talking about technology exclusively used in higher-end cameras. Larger sensors, case-design, customising software, flash interfaces, factory fitout, support processes, etc. For the technology in common, I agree with you. (Note: Still not suggesting that there isn't even MORE R&amp;D involved in getting other features into the smaller footprint of compacts.)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T01:42:22.753" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="16499" PostId="10963" Score="2" Text="+1 for &quot;fast shutter speed, like 1/8s or even higher&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-16T02:16:18.500" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16500" PostId="10980" Score="19" Text="Just post the quote; Ken Rockwell doesn't understand copyright law. Short quotations for use in criticism are [fair use](http://copyright.columbia.edu/copyright/files/2009/10/fairusechecklist.pdf)(pdf). As another example, at the bottom of most pages he has a copyright warning: &quot;As this page is copyrighted and formally registered, it is unlawful to make copies, *especially in the form of printouts for personal use.*&quot;, despite the fact that personal copies are merely [format shifting](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Format_shifting), and therefore are fair use." CreationDate="2011-04-16T03:51:52.763" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16501" PostId="10980" Score="6" Text="Also, to give you an idea of how much Ken Rockwell cares about being reliable, check out his [about page](http://www.kenrockwell.com/about.htm). He's essentially playing the Fox News pundit card (&quot;It's okay if I say things that may not be accurate, because everything I say may be my opinion, not fact.&quot;)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T04:00:38.727" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16503" PostId="10980" Score="11" Text="Gosh, other than just pointing out that his own about page says his website is little more than a joke, I can't imagine how to answer this in a way that isn't very opinionated and more factual.  I will say this, if you've handled it and like it alot - get it and forget some random dude on the internet's opinion." CreationDate="2011-04-16T04:06:56.490" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16504" PostId="10980" Score="1" Text="The thing is this random dude happens to have abnomrally highly-ranked goolge results." CreationDate="2011-04-16T04:11:42.723" UserId="4758" />
  <row Id="16505" PostId="10980" Score="8" Text="@enthdegree, just because he's good at googlejuice SEO games, doesn't mean he knows jack about anything else. ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T05:05:02.877" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16506" PostId="10980" Score="6" Text="@enthdegree: It appears to me that he's simply a lot more interested in generating page views than in being accurate. To that end, he routinely posts stuff that borders on complete nonsense. Dozens of people get on his forums and rake him over the coals for it, and he laughs all the way to the bank." CreationDate="2011-04-16T05:06:16.120" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16507" PostId="10982" Score="9" Text="Agree with your assessment, but I usually describe Ken Rockwell as the 'Glenn Beck' of the photography world. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T05:23:41.887" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16508" PostId="10982" Score="3" Text="Ken Rockwell rewrites press releases and passes them off as reviews and shot a 5D at fake-ISO 50 for more dynamic range. That was enough." CreationDate="2011-04-16T06:22:18.337" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="16509" PostId="10988" Score="1" Text="And yes, dammit, for the 842nd time, I am a human being! Though I'm pretty sure the average bot would have an easier time with a CAPTCHA term that involves partial differential symbols and lambdas than the average human being. (I know, it's the &quot;graecum est&quot; part, but that was the easiest of the four I had to go through to get a legible known part.)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T06:41:38.693" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16510" PostId="10966" Score="1" Text="@Craig Walk It does not only appear like this, but it is more or less straight up the sheer cliff. There are steel cables anchors which allows that." CreationDate="2011-04-16T07:49:55.633" UserId="4753" />
  <row Id="16511" PostId="10968" Text="@BBischof @rfusca There is also a similar proposal on Area51 about reverse image search (http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/26549/reverse-image-search). Maybe you're interested." CreationDate="2011-04-16T07:51:09.877" UserId="4753" />
  <row Id="16512" PostId="10970" Text="@Imre Thanks for this suggestion, it is nice. Unfortunately I could find a site with a descirption for the example image." CreationDate="2011-04-16T07:52:11.187" UserId="4753" />
  <row Id="16513" PostId="10885" Text="@Oddthinking: I don't buy that any of those things are more expensive for the higher-end cameras, given that almost all of it is off-the-shelf stuff. The exception is the larger sensors, which are probably more expensive to manufacture, due to manufacturing variation." CreationDate="2011-04-16T10:17:56.593" UserId="4663" />
  <row Id="16514" PostId="10988" Score="1" Text="Stan, at your level of rep you shouldn't be getting the captcha page very often at all anymore. If you are, something to bring up on meta." CreationDate="2011-04-16T12:50:08.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16515" PostId="10988" Text="Pentax also offers in-camera correction, FWIW. " CreationDate="2011-04-16T12:52:26.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16516" PostId="10964" Text="I recently purchased a Canon 24-70 2.8L for my 7D and I can't agree more.  This is my first L-series glass.  The difference is night and day compared to the EF-S 18-135 kit lens (inherited from my T2i).  It is built like a tank and I'm sure it will last decades." CreationDate="2011-04-16T12:56:42.203" UserId="3845" />
  <row Id="16517" PostId="10988" Score="1" Text="Great answer. Only I would add something to address the 'fisheye' part of the question: Fisheye lenses are not simply very wide lenses, they use a different construction that turn straight lines into curves when not passing through the center of the frame. A perfect fisheye lens would still do that while a perfect rectilinear would not (although there is no such thing in any case)." CreationDate="2011-04-16T13:00:21.927" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16518" PostId="10985" Score="4" Text="Someone once told me that it takes a minimum of 100 customer reviews to get any kind of semi-reliable idea. Honestly, as someone who knows cameras and lenses very well, I can say that roughly 90% of customer reviews in this area are wrong. Most people have used too little gear to know the difference between something good and something that is not." CreationDate="2011-04-16T13:07:31.123" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16519" PostId="10718" Text="Thanks for the info. I was not aware of large format cameras. " CreationDate="2011-04-16T15:34:57.153" UserId="4248" />
  <row Id="16520" PostId="10718" Text="@JMD There are other lenses around, too, that might work well and be cheap, depending on the quality you need.  Look at enlarger lenses and lenses from projectors (such as old slide projectors)." CreationDate="2011-04-16T17:05:25.117" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16521" PostId="10993" Text="&quot;Everything is worth what its purchaser will pay for it.&quot; - Publius Syrius" CreationDate="2011-04-16T17:19:11.440" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16522" PostId="10991" Text="I'm curious as to why, in our digital age, would such an equipment be so expensive, even when used? Why do people find it attractive?" CreationDate="2011-04-16T17:25:13.523" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16523" PostId="10988" Score="3" Text="+1 As always, a good, thoughtful, informed answer.  I was surprised, though, that the role of sensor size was indicated only in passing.  It would seem this is a critical factor: the &quot;edge&quot; of a lens depends fundamentally on that.  E.g., a full format 35 mm lens may have a lot of distortion more than 20mm from the center but this will be irrelevant when mounted on a camera with a smaller sensor such as an APS-C.  Also helpful would be some discussion of when distortion really becomes &quot;apparent.&quot;  The brick wall example suggests it depends on the subject but it must depend on the viewer, too." CreationDate="2011-04-16T17:25:22.447" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16524" PostId="10983" Score="2" Text="+1 Wise advice." CreationDate="2011-04-16T17:54:25.167" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16525" PostId="6482" Text="There was the classic Vivitar Series 1 200mm f/3 lens. (I had the 135mm f/2.3 in Canon FD mount, a very similar design to the 200.)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:06:30.840" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16526" PostId="10985" Score="1" Text="@Itai. Honestly? Shouldn't we take that for granted? To get a balanced and informed view one first goes to the reputable lens review sites, which I listed. Then one can examine a representative selection of customer opinions to discover additional information, if any. The important thing is to have an inquiring mind that is willing to examine different information sources to extract the relevant and useful. The quality of information in customer reviews is varied but the inquiring and open mind will find much of value." CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:33:35.853" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16527" PostId="10996" Text="Voted up for saying is subjective. I happen to have the exact opposite opinions about the bags though. The Katas are too rigid for me (which is annoying against my body) and feel the Lowepro are much higher quality. I own 6 Lowepro bags now and 0 Kata but, since people send me gear in bags often, I get to try Kata bags regularly (2 in the last two weeks)." CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:44:40.833" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16528" PostId="10985" Text="@labnut - Good that you know this already! As I happen to be one of the people on the other side of this, I see a lot of people who buy after reading one or two vague and unsubstantiated comments (Ex: Bought model XXX and it's the best!) and then come to me for help when it does not work out. I also happen to know that a great number of people right false statements as if it was completely true. It even happens in this forum! I help when I can." CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:49:16.633" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16529" PostId="10993" Text="Indeed! I guess the better question is: *should you pay the asking price for item in question?* Personally, I usually set my desired price first and then only buy around or below it (deal!)." CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:52:05.803" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16530" PostId="10985" Score="2" Text="@Itai. When we give advice it is implicitly aimed at people who make intelligent choices, for the simple reason they are the only ones likely to seek out and listen to good advice." CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:00:53.013" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16531" PostId="10999" Score="2" Text="Hi Sahan — welcome to the site. No need to apologize for questions like this — they're exactly what the site is for. You may find, though, that an existing question already has the answer you're looking for (although perhaps phrased differently). In this case, take a look at  http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10401/how-to-reverse-the-canon-18-55-kit-lens-to-use-it-as-macro — does that help?" CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:04:23.167" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16533" PostId="10996" Score="1" Text="How rigid is rigid? If I buy a 23 cm deep bag and don't fill it too much, will I be able to squeeze it into a 20 cm compartment? (§$%@$ Lufthansa!)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:16:56.000" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="16534" PostId="10993" Text="If the product which costs more also offers more features, it is really subjective. But sometimes there are products which cost more than the competition without having anything better than a logo and a pricetag (do you believe that Manolo Blahnik shoes are better quality than 150 Euro shoes?) " CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:33:39.113" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="16535" PostId="10996" Text="20cm compartment??? Is it the gloves compartment in your Lufthansa branded BMW?" CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:55:38.083" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16536" PostId="10826" Text="Given there have been few replies, I applied the advice of @rm999 to change the title, hoping this might generate more views.  (Perhaps &quot;tunnel photography&quot; interested few people...)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:56:11.070" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16537" PostId="3543" Text="@John Cavan I am considering this backpack, but the body shape and the placement of the straps makes it look uncomfortable (I couldn't find pictures of its back). Do you feel it is comfortable enough to make a day-long hike wearing it, as compared to a backpack with a more &quot;shaped&quot; back?" CreationDate="2011-04-16T19:56:52.020" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="16539" PostId="3543" Text="@rumtscho - I probably wouldn't want to carry it on long hikes, it is good for travel purposes though and I still use it extensively." CreationDate="2011-04-16T20:30:29.267" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16540" PostId="10996" Text="@ysap I flew on a Tupolev 134 last year. Since then I see the regulation 20 cm as a luxury. " CreationDate="2011-04-16T20:45:10.540" UserId="2099" />
  <row Id="16541" PostId="11002" Text="The filter mount on some zooms rotates, right? Would that present an issue with reverse mounting?" CreationDate="2011-04-16T21:42:41.693" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="16542" PostId="11002" Text="Yes, on quite a few. At least when I tried it, that wasn't much of an issue though." CreationDate="2011-04-16T21:45:19.067" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16543" PostId="10996" Text="LOL! A few years ago we flew flew to Bangkok with Uzbekistan Airlines via Tashkent. It appears that (at least back then) UA had a western fleet serving the western routs and an old, Soviet/Russian fleet serving the former Soviet republics and eastern states. Incidentally, our connection plane (Airbus) was grounded for maintenance, so we found ourselves in an 8 hrs flight in an aging Il or Tu (can't remember)...  [cont...]" CreationDate="2011-04-16T21:46:51.203" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16544" PostId="10996" Text="[cont...]  This was really a surreal experience. However, where the regulations in their western fleet is of western standards, we saw that on that Tu it was really a free ride, so I am surprised that you had any problem with putting your bag on the set next to you, on your laps or just hanging around in the isle... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-16T21:49:21.697" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16545" PostId="10055" Text="+1 for a free solution. Although other answerer's PS and Adobe Bridge work also, OP!" CreationDate="2011-04-17T00:12:41.083" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="16546" PostId="10988" Score="1" Text="@whuber: you are, of course, correct -- the only reason for the parenthetical reference in my answer was that the 11-16 is designed for (and thus corrected for) the APS-C-sized sensor. The subject, though, does have some importance (especially when the distortion is small) since we would be more likely to see slight geometric distortions in a subject that is essentially a bit of graph paper than in something a bit more organic in form." CreationDate="2011-04-17T00:32:27.200" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16547" PostId="10988" Text="@mattdm: It's a Windows server thing -- it issues 408s too quickly for people with slow and unreliable connections (I know there's a lot of packet loss from my end). SO only gets to see and act on multiple identical requests when I have to hit the back button and try again (even if some of those requests were aborted by the server), so the CAPTCHA response is reasonable, if frustrating. An exception in handling based on rep would be a bad thing if a bot ever succeeded in impersonating a &quot;vetted&quot; user." CreationDate="2011-04-17T00:41:51.877" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16548" PostId="10966" Text="@Roflcoptr: I hope nobody falls on that hike... they'd take out the whole convoy." CreationDate="2011-04-17T01:16:22.007" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="16550" PostId="10993" Text="@rumtscho - It matters very little what I believe when it comes to price. If there is a volume of people willing to pay the price and that volume meets the level desired by the business, then they have priced where they should. This is true for Kata as much as it is for Manolo Blahnik, irrespective of any opinion I may hold on their worth. Now, in the case of Kata, I don't have any direct experience to say anyways, but I thought it worth pointing out that a question of &quot;worth the price&quot; is irrelevant. You save your question with other information." CreationDate="2011-04-17T03:21:30.270" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16551" PostId="10402" Score="1" Text="18-55 doesnt have aperture ring but you can set an aperture, keep the dof preview button pressed while taking off your lens. this will keep the aperture fixed. normally reverse lens techniques require smaller apertures and wide opens are too shallow and often become almost unusable and very troublesome focusing properly." CreationDate="2011-04-17T04:13:36.850" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16552" PostId="10402" Text="@Shutterbug, that is a useful tip." CreationDate="2011-04-17T08:29:51.130" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16553" PostId="11006" Score="1" Text="Time is a big one - your left hand is already on or close to the focus ring, but often the joystick/pad for selecting focus points is a little out of reach for your right thumb." CreationDate="2011-04-17T09:03:52.620" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16554" PostId="8129" Text="I find the controls on the Airbus one horribly unintuitive. If you're going to add mouse control to yours, please make it work more like Google's Street View." CreationDate="2011-04-17T09:08:38.357" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16555" PostId="11006" Text="People can always use focus and recompose method, but even that might not be fast enough for some situations." CreationDate="2011-04-17T09:08:39.917" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16556" PostId="11006" Text="When AF is hunting because of low light, it takes at least one second before the focus stops moving and manual override is usable. Isn't it much better just to switch the lens to manual?" CreationDate="2011-04-17T09:27:41.107" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="16557" PostId="11006" Text="About #1, AF hunting - shouldn't the AF system get a fix before starting to override? I remember such instruction from manual for my lens and therefore have just switched to plain MF when AF is hunting." CreationDate="2011-04-17T09:29:43.037" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="16558" PostId="11006" Text="@che and Imre: if you have full time manual focus (FTM) support in your lens, you dont need to *switch* to manual focus. You can just start turning the focus ring and thus overriding the focus is one less switch easier." CreationDate="2011-04-17T10:58:14.863" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16559" PostId="11005" Text="Have you never, ever, had occasion to shoot *through* a foreground element (bushes, grass, fence, etc.)? Or had your camera stubbornly use a focus reference immediately beside the thing you wanted to focus on? Playing the &quot;mode switching&quot; game is tiresome at the best of times." CreationDate="2011-04-17T10:59:12.983" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16560" PostId="11009" Text="Lens having FTM focus can be left in AF all the time no matter you combine it with back-button focusing or not. You can override the AF the moment you turn the focus ring and you can half-press the shutter to regain AF. Can you please confirm?" CreationDate="2011-04-17T11:02:45.403" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16561" PostId="11009" Text="@ShutterBug: I am not saying that FTMF is useless without back-button AF, or that back-button AF is the &quot;right&quot; thing to do. I just posted my observation that I happen to find the *combination* of FTMF + back-button AF very convenient. :)  One scenario that typically requires mode-switching if you don't use back-button AF is the following: you have already set up everything correctly (on a tripod) and you just want to take a picture without changing the focus." CreationDate="2011-04-17T11:17:03.293" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="16562" PostId="11009" Text="@Jukka Suomela: I finally got your point! Yes, for composed environment, back-button AF should be more convenient." CreationDate="2011-04-17T11:38:42.627" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16563" PostId="10996" Text="How would you compare the build quality of Kata to Crumpler? I like my Crumpler &quot;Sinking Barge&quot;, but for an urban environment, it is huge — and it's their _smaller_ model. " CreationDate="2011-04-17T12:33:58.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16564" PostId="8994" Text="Or a diameter sign, ⌀ in unicode.  http://www.fileformat.info/info/unicode/char/2300/index.htm" CreationDate="2011-04-17T14:32:50.943" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16565" PostId="10968" Text="Wow! Awesome! I would really like to see that start. I even have a question ready!" CreationDate="2011-04-17T15:56:04.570" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="16566" PostId="11012" Text="Thanks for all your answers. When I moved camera away from the sun those light spots disappeared." CreationDate="2011-04-17T16:39:24.940" UserId="4773" />
  <row Id="16567" PostId="8771" Text="Is this the same as the &quot;AE/AF lock&quot; on my Nikon D3100, or is it something available on pro-model DSLRs?" CreationDate="2011-04-17T18:11:25.667" UserId="4330" />
  <row Id="16568" PostId="11015" Text="To check whether lens is dusty, you could lend it to a friend of yours to make a shot of something appropriate and see whether the same effect happens on someone else's camera." CreationDate="2011-04-17T19:19:08.060" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16569" PostId="10992" Text="I think that making a decent such digital back would cost much much much more than buying a nowadays HD camera. It won't be RED Epic, but for what you'd get from your *solution* it will be much much better..." CreationDate="2011-04-17T19:27:58.223" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16570" PostId="653" Text="@Bossykena: Sure you would, but there's no macro that can do 1:7... That in itself is amazing enlargement. AMAZING is the word. And having AF along with it is just pure bliss. Boy I wish... But it is in did pricey." CreationDate="2011-04-17T19:45:07.897" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16571" PostId="11020" Text="AFAIK, all Windows software work under Linux with the right VM. I use Parallels under OpenSUSE to run Lightroom. About the data, perhaps you should write to Olympus. They probably know who they gave it to." CreationDate="2011-04-17T20:26:16.503" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16573" PostId="57" Score="1" Text="@whuber: (1) site has been already mentioned below (2) can't find your conclusion of improving saturation nowhere stated in article (3) content: cutoff frequency of silicon nitride-coating of CMOS nowhere mentioned (4) content: dubious claims of susceptibility of coating to soap." CreationDate="2011-04-18T01:28:15.187" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16574" PostId="1201" Score="1" Text="-1: Same reason as for Zepplocks answer: you don't address the question." CreationDate="2011-04-18T01:44:48.363" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="16575" PostId="10493" Text="FWIW, a dpreview blog post / survey as of April 2011 declaring the whole thing up in the air: http://www.dpreview.com/news/1104/11041505mirrorlessvote.asp" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:19:26.660" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16576" PostId="11025" Score="1" Text="If ink is the major cost here, is it possible to go into the pro lines?  SOmething where the printer is on the order of $3k or the like, but ink lasts (comparatively) forever?" CreationDate="2011-04-18T02:25:01.283" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="16577" PostId="10493" Text="@mattdm - Interesting. As a starter, they are excluding Sony SLT cameras since they are asking to name 'Mirrorless' cameras and  responders are going for it (MILC is presently top). SLD includes both MILC and SLT cameras." CreationDate="2011-04-18T03:03:27.543" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16578" PostId="11028" Score="1" Text="Hmmm... some fundamental definitions are needed. To me, a color-space is largely defined by a gamut. Otherwise, couldn't sRGB and AdobeRGB could be the same color-space with different gamuts?" CreationDate="2011-04-18T03:58:59.850" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16579" PostId="11002" Text="Thank you for the explanation. " CreationDate="2011-04-18T04:22:24.370" UserId="4470" />
  <row Id="16580" PostId="9246" Text="Meh, don't be that person at the museum who can't enjoy the art because you're fiddling with your camera the entire time. The artwork will never be as good as when you're looking at it with your own eyes. You'll spend the entire time lamenting the person blocking your shot or the glare on the protective glass instead of enjoying your visit. Buy a postcard if you find something you want to remember, and practice photography on something more fleeting." CreationDate="2011-04-18T05:13:27.570" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16581" PostId="10425" Text="Wow Picasa is great, thanks. I wouldn't call it basic!" CreationDate="2011-04-18T07:40:35.993" UserId="4546" />
  <row Id="16582" PostId="10819" Text="I know that with many cameras you can specify whether you are in a 50Hz or a 60Hz powered country. Does the 3DS have this setting? (A quick Google search failed to find anything - maybe with the user manual you will have more luck?)" CreationDate="2011-04-18T08:52:15.827" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="16583" PostId="11032" Text="Most cameras have AI Servo focus for this purpose." CreationDate="2011-04-18T09:06:25.980" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16584" PostId="11012" Text="Remove any filter if you're using one and get a lens hood. That way you can get rid of those spots! :D" CreationDate="2011-04-18T09:08:34.917" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16585" PostId="11028" Score="1" Text="There is a third variable involved, 'color model' - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color-space" CreationDate="2011-04-18T09:44:18.637" UserId="1774" />
  <row Id="16586" PostId="11034" Text="Like you I long for a retro-chic camera of high quality. I am prepared to accept the smaller optical view finder if it gives me manual rangefinder focusing. Nothing (that I know of) comes close to this ideal so I may well settle for the Fuji X100." CreationDate="2011-04-18T10:34:13.763" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16587" PostId="11028" Score="1" Text="The definitions of the term &quot;color space&quot; is not quite that clear cut. In some circles, color spaces are things like &quot;Lab space&quot;, &quot;RGB space&quot;, &quot;CMYK space&quot;, where as &quot;additive&quot; and &quot;subtractive&quot; are models. Other circles refer to RGB and CMYK as models, and specific gamuts as color spaces. I think my meaning can be clearly derived from context." CreationDate="2011-04-18T11:50:25.220" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16588" PostId="11033" Text="I'm going to accept this answer since it answers the questions and complements very well with the comments above. I'd really like to thanks the commenters as well for their insights." CreationDate="2011-04-18T12:17:17.717" UserId="1595" />
  <row Id="16589" PostId="11029" Text="So, you're saying that modern camera sensors are less sensitive to blue intentionally, because that models the human eye better?" CreationDate="2011-04-18T12:38:28.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16590" PostId="11034" Text="I hate to see a question with no tags other than the big-bucket &quot;equipment recommendation&quot;, but I'm at a loss as to what to call this category. I think &quot;DMD&quot; fits pretty well, though. :) http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/DMD.shtml" CreationDate="2011-04-18T12:52:11.830" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16591" PostId="11034" Score="1" Text="Also, I'm afraid that &quot;here's two products; are there other products like this?&quot;, by the nature of the question, will never really have great answers. It's very specific to this moment in time, and you've already ruled out in-depth responses on two of the most interesting possibilities." CreationDate="2011-04-18T12:55:36.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16592" PostId="11034" Text="Did you just write $1500 for the M9? I wish!" CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:19:50.027" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="16593" PostId="11024" Text="Since white-paper reflects all wave-lengths, why can't it show all possible colors? From what I've been reading, it seems the gamut of paper is extremely large (dynamic-range though is not, which is another topic entirely)." CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:39:03.677" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16594" PostId="11006" Text="+1 ... I often use manual focus to fine tune focus in narrow DOF scenarios. For example, when taking a photo of a face with narrow DOF you often want the focal point to be on the eyes instead of the tip of the nose or ears or some other random point that the auto focus gives you. VERY useful." CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:40:04.713" UserId="830" />
  <row Id="16595" PostId="11024" Text="I don't know why, I just know that it is so. (If it weren't, you'd think *someone* would build a printer, paper, and ink system that demonstrates a monitor-equivalent gamut.) It sounds like a fine separate question, however." CreationDate="2011-04-18T13:55:48.500" UserId="4141" />
  <row Id="16596" PostId="11038" Score="1" Text="+1 for your level headed evaluation. Mike Johnston's Online Photographer is one of my must read sites." CreationDate="2011-04-18T14:03:31.570" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16597" PostId="11034" Text="@labnut Well I wouldn't mind a smaller viewfinder if not for the fact that I'm hesitant about its ability to let me focus quickly. Unfortunately none of the photo shops here (Perth, Australia) have the X100 for rent (nor do I expect them to), so I can't really tell whether it'll be a hindrance." CreationDate="2011-04-18T14:45:46.520" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="16598" PostId="11034" Text="@mattdm I was actually hoping that people would point me to other possible cameras, like the Epson R-D1 from @Imre, which looks interesting. Though I think I'll edit my question to allow for possible responses addressing my concerns with the X100. @eWolf The $1500 is actually the budget range I had in mind. I would have sapped up the M9 if it's within that range, or maybe even if it's $2500." CreationDate="2011-04-18T14:50:10.793" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="16599" PostId="11034" Text="@mattdm, DMD! (grin). Mike Johnston is actually rather insightful. We could have a great debate on the desirable characteristics of a DMD." CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:01:05.507" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16600" PostId="11040" Text="Actually the Canon AE-1 Program is 30 years old. :) The M8 is still out of budget, but the Epson does look interesting. It even has the shutter cocking thing, the problem lies with actually finding a decent one." CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:04:37.387" UserId="1635" />
  <row Id="16601" PostId="57" Text="@Leonidas I am glad you consulted that review.  Yes, it has its limitations.  I hope that you and others might be inspired by this to identify and report on other reasonably objective sources of information bearing on the question, so that we can accumulate--and criticize--a body of knowledge rather than amassing a collection of largely unsupported (and somewhat conflicting) opinions.  I am *not* criticizing the opinions that have been expressed, but only expressing a desire that they be backed up with facts." CreationDate="2011-04-18T15:23:18.500" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16602" PostId="11044" Score="2" Text="This is great advice. See [cameraquest.com](http://cameraquest.com/com35s.htm) for more profiles of rangefinder cameras." CreationDate="2011-04-18T16:36:44.487" UserId="4781" />
  <row Id="16603" PostId="11044" Text="I do wish the Canonet hadn't been shutterspeed-priority though. It's just the opposite of what one usually wants! But of course - most rangefinders of that vintage have shutter-priority instead of aperture-priority so it can't be helped." CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:01:42.153" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="16604" PostId="11040" Text="The RD-1 is an interesting offering. In essence it is a Voigtländer (*cough*Cosina*cough*) R2 with a Nikon D70-ish sensor instead of film. It's getting long in the tooth but in semi-decent light and it should deliver the goods." CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:05:29.857" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="16605" PostId="5936" Text="On a related note, I try to avoid *shoot* due to its negative (violent) connotations. It's a bit tricky. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-17T19:24:05.483" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="16606" PostId="10975" Text="IF the bottle neck is the CPU, then a RAW converter like Bibble will speed things up very significantly. Bibble is a lot faster than Adobe Camera RAW, so if speed is your primary concern then you should give Bibble a go." CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:14:36.473" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16607" PostId="10977" Text="The OP is after speed, DCRaw is not going to be any faster than ACR. " CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:17:42.010" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16608" PostId="10976" Text="On a Core 2 Duo 2.0 GHz, Bibble with Perfectly Clear, Noise Ninja and the film simulator Andy takes 15 seconds. Without any of these extra tools running and merely performing standard white balance, sharpening, exposure/levels/curves takes about 2 - 3 seconds." CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:21:09.387" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16609" PostId="11044" Score="2" Text="@Staale: There are some exceptions. I have a [Yashica 35CC](http://cameraquest.com/yash35cc.htm) that has aperture-priority (but no manual override). These cameras are OK to try rangefinders and street photography for little money. If you are hooked you can always buy a Leica later on..." CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:50:21.340" UserId="4781" />
  <row Id="16610" PostId="11055" Text="Something like this - http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-35mm/system-Leica-M/category-Camera-Outfits?s=1&amp;bcode=LM&amp;ccode=1&amp;cc=79301&amp;r=WG&amp;f" CreationDate="2011-04-18T18:51:54.630" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16611" PostId="11024" Text="@Itai The limit on the gamut is the number of inks you use. To get a wider gamut, you add more colors of ink, 7 and even 9 color rips are fairly common in the pre-press world. CcMmYKkRG for example is a common 9 color setup, adding half Cyan, half Magenta, half blacK, Red and Green to the standard Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and blacK. There is also a very common technique where you supplement standard CMYK with a single spot color to get some corporate logo with just the right trademarked color that's difficult to accurately render in CMYK with a smooth texture." CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:03:05.863" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="16612" PostId="11043" Text="I enjoy shooting street with my Olympus OM-1 with a 28mm f/3.5 lens a lot more than my Bessa R2 with the 35 f/1.4. It's much cheaper than a rangefinder and you can use the optics with your DSLR of choice." CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:03:22.787" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="16613" PostId="11043" Text="@Jędrek: It's a matter of taste. A rangefinder finder does never black out, has more DOF, shows context outside the frame, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:15:33.603" UserId="4781" />
  <row Id="16614" PostId="11060" Score="1" Text="See this paper about Optimizing Photo Composition, http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&amp;q=cache:QD85NYHEcw0J:www.cs.jhu.edu/~misha/ReadingSeminar/Papers/Liu10.pdf+photography+diagonal+method+filetype:pdf&amp;hl=en&amp;gl=za&amp;pid=bl&amp;srcid=ADGEESjW-qEG2eXj4qZgGjGXxiDHNQL9dH7eVXxCydVH9nPKeJm-lfOf-G4p1TnbVTFdiy0jZY2335isNRStiZ24REiwZafqNm98EnB4PEP_I80B_frmgS61rv-3XT_5TxfuwZpcLJOW&amp;sig=AHIEtbQ13OROzYTbi0DWr6CqWYmKvq2pyg" CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:51:09.517" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16615" PostId="11052" Score="1" Text="Expressed very precisely. Nice.&#xA;Perhaps a note on ISO – there is Auto ISO as well. Not important when it's bright enough, but for dark scenes (like, concerts) I might wish to stay at the lower limit of shutter speed that I can still hold stable and chose an appropriate aperture, and let the camera do the ISO magic (especially if lighting conditions change quickly; no chance to adjust correctly by hand, at least not for me)." CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:51:53.883" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="16616" PostId="11052" Text="@Simon, I shoot a Pentax K10D, which has a so-called &quot;TAv&quot; mode, where you set both the aperture and shutter, and it picks the ISO automatically. So if that's how I want to work, I'd pick that mode in Step 2. That's a camera-specific detail, though, and most other makes handle it differently, as you describe. (The K10D has a pretty narrow range of usable ISOs compared to newer models, so I don't actually tend to use this mode much.)" CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:59:05.810" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16618" PostId="11060" Score="2" Text="The rule of thirds is certainly nothing magical. See this answer http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/521/what-is-the-rule-of-thirds/9239#9239. In general, off-center composition provides a more dynamic, energized feel than a centered, balanced composition, but claims that some exact rule is somehow perfectly, mystically better should be taken with some skepticism. Everyone would like a &quot;make my composition great&quot; silver bullet, but there is no such thing in reality. " CreationDate="2011-04-18T20:13:12.237" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16619" PostId="11060" Text="Also, the &quot;diagonal method&quot; appears to be relates to the theory of &quot;rabatment of the rectangle&quot;, which I talk about here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8965/what-is-the-golden-ratio-and-why-is-it-better-than-the-rule-of-thirds/9213#9213" CreationDate="2011-04-18T20:22:41.943" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16620" PostId="11060" Score="2" Text="Have a look at this: http://www.diagonalmethod.info/" CreationDate="2011-04-18T20:23:54.547" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16621" PostId="11060" Score="4" Text="After reading up on the diagonal method I find it just as non-scientific and arbitrary as the rule of thirds. There's a lot of confirmation bias going on, where people take existing photos and find patterns that follow a theme (e.g. one of 4 possible diagonal lines in this photo happen to cross 2 of the 5 possible features in this photo. Therefore those features are important, and therefore the diagonal method can be used to frame the important features of your photo). It's great to teach beginners not to center the subject in every photo, but these methods don't seem useful to me. " CreationDate="2011-04-18T20:55:55.897" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16622" PostId="11060" Text="@John Cavan: Author probably had the **EUREKA** moment when he got to the idea of the diagonals." CreationDate="2011-04-18T21:11:24.033" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16623" PostId="11060" Score="2" Text="@rm999: make that an answer and I'll vote it up. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-18T21:29:02.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16624" PostId="11051" Text="+1 for the focus on &quot;facilitate the vision.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-18T22:40:13.847" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16625" PostId="11064" Text="Especially true when you consider that the Mona Lisa has been stolen a few times by cutting it out of the frame leaving open the possibility that it's not the same proportions that it used to be..." CreationDate="2011-04-18T22:57:31.283" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16626" PostId="11054" Score="1" Text="Just a nit-pick, fisheye lenses use a different projection which makes all lines curved unless they cross the center of the frame. People do not normally refer to that as *barrel distortion*, since it is intended." CreationDate="2011-04-19T01:17:44.053" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16627" PostId="11049" Text="Thanks Jerry! This answers my question and matches what I knew already. This does open plenty of tangential questions which I'll probably formulate soon." CreationDate="2011-04-19T01:24:33.753" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16628" PostId="11067" Score="2" Text="+1 - well argued. I would note, on the last, that the relationship between music (or poetry) and mathematics is a strong one. That would imply that, perhaps, science and art are not so far apart as many may suppose. I know you're not even remotely suggesting that, I'm just reinforcing the point. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T02:40:19.757" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16629" PostId="11060" Text="@labnut-- that paper saddens me.  The idea of using a computationally derived formula for composition as a foundation of judging the 'goodness' of a photo smacks a bit too much of serious conformity.  I guess they haven't gotten around to thinking about composition as a means of telling a story, as can be evidenced by the top of figure 7.  To me, (a) tells a story of a lonely ship, while (c), their preferred image, is a bit more intimate and immediate to the crew.  I'm glad I'm still allowed to say 'to each their own.'" CreationDate="2011-04-19T03:24:24.500" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="16630" PostId="11029" Text="Its the nature of the blue light that makes the sensors as well as human eyes less sensitive. In order to sense blue light properly you need to amplify it which amplifies noise as well." CreationDate="2011-04-19T03:51:12.560" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16631" PostId="11052" Text="@coneslayer, note that not many people can use the TAv mode.  No other brand, except perhaps the Samsung GX series based on Pentax cameras, has this mode, and not all Pentax models support it—only the more advanced models do.  I use a Pentax K-r, and I don't have this mode; the more expensive K-5 does.  In any case, high ISO performance has dramatically improved over the years and you can often get a usable shot at ISO 3200." CreationDate="2011-04-19T03:52:52.467" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="16632" PostId="11069" Text="@Esulin:Thanks for the wonderful tips and i do agree with you equipment will not make some one a good photographer.i am a beginner in this filed and starting from &quot;0&quot; so just asking what all i need in the starting." CreationDate="2011-04-19T04:41:17.820" UserId="4433" />
  <row Id="16633" PostId="11025" Text="I don't think we can fit 3k into the budget right now but I would be interested to know what sort of printers these are." CreationDate="2011-04-19T04:55:26.663" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="16634" PostId="11026" Score="2" Text="@Stan: Thanks for the advice, I think we will go with a SnapLab after looking at the pricing. Hopefully we'll be able to recoop equipment costs fairly quick!" CreationDate="2011-04-19T05:55:51.377" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="16635" PostId="11052" Text="@DragonLord Now you nearly shocked me: Does my Auto-ISO only work on Shutter and Aperture priority, but not on Manual mode? Fortunately not (checked); it works for both the D90 and the D7000, and I can additionally chose an upper limit for the ISO. &#xA;So that's the Nikon TAv mode :)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T06:08:21.723" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="16636" PostId="11056" Text="+1 for this different approach (subject-based instead of settings-based)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T06:09:16.293" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="16637" PostId="10857" Text="Unfortunately, the aperture doesn't change immediately on live view, at least on the D7000; I'd bet it's the same on the D90. Also, live view doesn't really show you the effect of shutter speed. The best way to learn that stuff is to take pictures." CreationDate="2011-04-19T07:13:44.007" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16638" PostId="10857" Score="1" Text="@Evan Krall: live view helps understanding how ISO/Shutter Speed/Apertures are related to *exposure* and how you control them. Aperture doesn't immediately change, but I believe there's a DOF Preview button somewhere for this purpose." CreationDate="2011-04-19T08:45:00.247" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16639" PostId="10945" Text="every card has a cycle limit to the number of write operations. But it's high enough that formatting it before use shouldn't be a problem. You might have to replace it after 4 years instead of 5 (or more likely 9 years instead of 10)." CreationDate="2011-04-19T09:21:05.240" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16640" PostId="11071" Score="1" Text="I'd also be worried about the glues used to hold things together in many lightweight (plastic) lenses, as well as the lens barrels (which are often plastic or coated in plastic)." CreationDate="2011-04-19T09:23:25.580" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="16641" PostId="11067" Text="Stonking answer, @mattdm.  You may even have devoted more words that this particular &quot;method&quot; deserves.  ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T10:14:05.647" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="16642" PostId="11064" Text="Rules of thumb - that's the important point.  many people lose sight of it" CreationDate="2011-04-19T10:14:36.833" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="16643" PostId="11020" Text="I'm a Lightroom guy, but I really like the idea of working on linux.  I am keeping a weather eye on Bibble.  I may jump over and join you one of these days!" CreationDate="2011-04-19T10:17:48.860" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="16644" PostId="11054" Text="@Itai: Thanks. I have it cleared now." CreationDate="2011-04-19T10:31:10.577" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="16645" PostId="11075" Text="Image resizing may be processor intensive but it parallelizes well which means special purpose image processing pipelines like you get in digital cameras have the potential to be faster at such tasks than general purpose CPUs in desktop computers." CreationDate="2011-04-19T11:06:20.663" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16646" PostId="11075" Score="2" Text="In theory, that is certainly possible. In practice, the DSPs in cameras are limited by power constraints and thus aren't going to be operating at a high frequency. Additionally, given that today's general purpose CPUs contain multiple cores and with the rise of GPGPU processing this performance advantage that laptops/desktops have is not going away any time soon." CreationDate="2011-04-19T11:18:59.553" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16647" PostId="5940" Text="I think the example of Henri Cartier Bresson is overly simplistic. His candid photography was carefully planned, as he would position himself in the correct place, frame the shot carefully and then release the shutter at the decisive moment. Take this one for example. http://tinyurl.com/3wh2fmn You can't expect me to believe that he was walking along, saw a bike coming and then whipped out his camera? He likely positioned himself at the top of the stairs, carefully composed the shot and waited for the cyclist to appear. He certainly did more than just &quot;take&quot; photos!" CreationDate="2011-04-19T11:28:39.390" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="16648" PostId="11029" Text="Why? What is it about blue light? And if we're _less_ sensitive to it, why would you need to amplify it more? (As opposed to sensors being less sensitive, which almost-obviously requires more amplification.)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T11:52:15.713" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16649" PostId="10765" Text="@Marcin: why not?" CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:01:02.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16650" PostId="11029" Text="The sensor is actually designed for peak sensitivity. By comparison the spectral sensitivity is typically down by a factor of 2x at the blue end of the spectrum. The gain is turned up on the blue channel to compensate for the lack of shortwavelength sensitivity which means that thermal noise in that channel is also amplified along with the signal. The same is true but to a much less noticeable extent in the red and green channel." CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:09:05.787" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16651" PostId="10765" Score="1" Text="@Tall Jeff: I'm a bit concerned that this answer, while highly rated, is in direct contradiction to the other two. That is, you say that there's nothing inherent to physics which makes blue performance worse, whereas the others say it basically comes down to that. Which is right?" CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:36:33.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16652" PostId="11029" Text="That makes sense to me. (Can you edit your answer above to include it? I think the part about &quot;human eyes and therefore&quot; is somewhat confusing.)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:38:48.497" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16653" PostId="11029" Score="1" Text="Also, in @Tall Jeff's answer, currently voted to +20, he says &quot;there is nothing inherent to physics that requires blue performance to be worse&quot;, which seems in direct contradiction to this, leaving me a bit confused. Can you help straighten me out? Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:40:47.493" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16654" PostId="11077" Score="1" Text="Pentax dSLRs actually have a feature to do this in-camera, adjusting exposure automatically and everything. Pretty cool." CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:53:28.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16655" PostId="740" Text="What is your basis for rating the Transcend brand &quot;absolutely terrible&quot;? They get lots of very good reviews on Amazon.com, similar to the Sandisk cards. Is there some study showing that they are less reliable, or have you just had one die on you?" CreationDate="2011-04-19T12:59:15.910" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16656" PostId="11076" Score="7" Text="+1 for the &quot;no going back&quot;. That's exactly the reason why I shoot in RAW, too, even if in processing I pretty much just go with the suggested values. (I will still have the raw file if I want to spend more time on it at a later time.)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:00:05.980" UserId="1772" />
  <row Id="16657" PostId="11048" Score="1" Text="You might be interested in Michael Freeman's book Perfect Exposure http://www.focalpress.com/books/photography/michael_freeman39s_perfect_exposure.aspx, which uses a similar workflow diagram as an organizing principle for the book. (Freeman doesn't claim that his is the _only_ such ordering of steps; he just presents a logical one, and says that most experienced photographers use _something_ similar, consciously or not.) " CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:12:37.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16658" PostId="11048" Text="@mattdm that's while reading this book that I first realized some people tried to put such a process on paper. I tried to find one that suits me, but the book is a bit hard for a debutant like me, that's why my process is still rough..." CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:19:40.520" UserId="2337" />
  <row Id="16659" PostId="5940" Text="@Philip Goh - And what if the cyclist never appeared? That was the difference and, of course, the post is a fairly simplistic look at it since it's not the forum for a doctoral dissertation on the artistic works of famous street photographers. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:33:48.490" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16660" PostId="11075" Score="3" Text="Sure, but the in-camera processor doesn't have to _beat_ the PC; it just has to be good enough for a reasonable algorithm." CreationDate="2011-04-19T13:41:22.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16661" PostId="11052" Text="@SimonAEugster: Sorry.  I withdraw this comment." CreationDate="2011-04-19T14:05:31.103" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="16662" PostId="11080" Text="Complete disagree. Managing location of files let you have a sane organization should there be a problem with the software, which happens way too often between software upgrades, OS upgrades, H/W upgrades, software updates, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-19T14:18:19.967" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16663" PostId="10877" Text="Too many things rolled up in one question, it will make it hard to vote on since different answer may address different parts of your question. I would close this one and open 3-5 questions (actually some may already have answers - use the search feature) each focusing on an important issue." CreationDate="2011-04-19T14:22:32.960" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16664" PostId="10765" Score="1" Text="@Mattdm: Because Foveon sensors don't use mosaicing, and have equal amounts of sites for all three channels." CreationDate="2011-04-19T15:07:31.383" UserId="4663" />
  <row Id="16665" PostId="11079" Score="2" Text="There's usually no need to go looking that far afield -- the filter diameter is usually printed, embossed or engraved somewhere on the lens." CreationDate="2011-04-19T15:17:58.950" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16666" PostId="11080" Text="Obviously it's a personal preference thing. But in the event of software failure, it's not like you should ever loose files -- one way or another, they're on the disk somewhere.  And in my experience, a failure in a software's database is more likely to happen if you insist on being involved in the process." CreationDate="2011-04-19T15:43:31.103" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16667" PostId="11080" Text="@Itai You're assuming that &quot;sane organization&quot; is not possible *within* the software's tools. Lightroom provides various methods of organizing files on disk. It's pretty common and reasonable advice to do your file organization in the DAM instead of moving files around on your own (in Windows Explorer or equivalent)." CreationDate="2011-04-19T15:44:10.667" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16668" PostId="11087" Text="can someone put the image in the post for me...I can't yet...need more cred on this exchange site. thanks in advance " CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:05:35.163" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="16669" PostId="11087" Score="1" Text="Done — welcome to the site. " CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:11:26.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16670" PostId="11087" Text="... if you could only replace the &quot;yoru&quot; with &quot;your&quot; 8-)" CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:33:13.757" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16671" PostId="11087" Score="2" Text="ahh sorry... Math and English is my 3 worst subjects" CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:39:38.130" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="16672" PostId="10877" Text="Agree with @cabbey, I don't see how the photo loss could have been anything except user error." CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:42:18.707" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16673" PostId="11006" Text="@ShutterBug: Well I can do that, but then I'll lose the focus instantly when I half-press the shutter. Which kind of defeats the purpose. Or am I reading this wrong, and &quot;manual focus override&quot; means any use of MF, and not just FT/M?" CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:50:30.640" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="16674" PostId="11088" Text="The obvious answers are 'eBay' and 'Craigslist'." CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:51:41.207" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16675" PostId="11088" Text="I guess...I was just wondering if there was a more of a resale or used equipment depot or something..." CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:55:48.553" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="16676" PostId="11060" Text="@mmr, hee hee, note the absence of comment on my part. I must confess I was being provocative in the face of unbearably rule based photography. But my joke was too subtle. No,I am not a reductionist though some of my physicist friends are. The human mind is a remarkable example of emergent properties that defy reductionist explanations. http://plato.stanford.edu/entries/properties-emergent/" CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:58:04.007" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16677" PostId="11060" Score="1" Text="@rm999, your remark about confirmation bias hits the nail on the head. Our mind is a pattern seeking mechanism that is determined to find a pattern. Why and how our mind perceives aesthetics is a profound puzzle and trying to reduce it to a simple matter of geometry is doomed from the start." CreationDate="2011-04-19T17:17:24.170" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16678" PostId="11067" Text="+1 for your sonnets." CreationDate="2011-04-19T17:27:26.873" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16679" PostId="11078" Text="+1 for avoiding speculation and offering a way to obtain an objective answer." CreationDate="2011-04-19T17:46:45.530" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16680" PostId="10982" Score="1" Text="@Jay, @Alan, these subjective, tendentious statements seem out of place in a site like photo.stackexchange where we have more lofty goals than the run-of-the-mill gossip forum. See @mattdm's reply for a considered, responsible statement that would be a good template for us to follow." CreationDate="2011-04-19T17:54:56.340" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16681" PostId="10982" Score="2" Text="Tough. If you don't like it and think it's out of line, flag it and see if an admin agrees. As I have earned the reputation within this community to do-so, I'll continue to post *exactly as I see fit* at photo-SE, regardless of what you think is 'appropriate.'" CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:07:54.187" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16682" PostId="11088" Score="4" Text="Keep an eye out for photography studios going out of business. They can be extra willing to get back some of their equipment costs." CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:13:50.187" UserId="4776" />
  <row Id="16683" PostId="10982" Score="2" Text="@labnut: I appreciate the spirit of your concern, but when it comes to this specific website, there is enough established criticism, that I feel that my opinion is warranted, and less &quot;gossip.&quot; Ken Rockwell has opinions that the majority of photographers find absurd. He is a sensationalist just like Matt Drudge, except he chooses to write about photography, instead of political muck raking." CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:18:22.913" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="16684" PostId="11027" Score="1" Text="+1 for our resident printing expert." CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:24:19.500" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16685" PostId="11078" Score="1" Text="I tend to agree and I'm curious how the Canon sRaw works out since it's really about doing this sort of thing as far as I know. I may get a friend of mine to try it out for me." CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:28:47.390" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16686" PostId="10982" Score="1" Text="@Alan, thanks for the considered reply and I did not mean to cause offense. Like you I am well aware of the community opinion. When I saw them my first reaction was agreement. Then I began to feel troubled and on thinking about it wondered whether strong criticisms of people really belonged on this site. I still do but I will contribute to the discussion in a less trenchant way." CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:38:00.357" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16687" PostId="8016" Text="@mattdm - Could you expand on &quot;color calibrated&quot; setups?" CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:44:31.160" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="16688" PostId="11090" Text="I have had good results with KEH" CreationDate="2011-04-19T19:27:45.083" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16689" PostId="11098" Score="1" Text="+1, those are good references." CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:14:56.243" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16690" PostId="7545" Text="@mattdm: I can't agree with you on this. By the time phone cameras will come to speed of today's P&amp;S cameras, the later will be ahead yet again. Phone isn't supposed to replace P&amp;S. It never was and it never will. Phone is a phone. P&amp;S Camera is a P&amp;S camera. Putting decent optics in a phone will make it unusable as phone. Optics isn't electronics that evolves in density and capabilities. The higher resolution sensor and their small size will require much much better optics which is a big limitation. So phone cameras won't replace P&amp;S cameras. Sorry mate. Won't happen." CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:25:15.887" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16691" PostId="7545" Text="@mattdm: But it's a completely different question whether phone cameras will start satisfying non-demanding users (which most are). Evolving phone camera quality may produce this effect. But quality will still be behind P&amp;S. But since people aren't demanding they may settle with phone camera instead." CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:28:53.197" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16692" PostId="8016" Text="@Imagen: see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/color-calibration and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/color-management, and if that's not helpful, please ask a new question." CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:32:52.187" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16693" PostId="740" Text="@Henry: By the fact that every single one I've ever owned or used had one problem or another. I've owned a couple (and promptly returned them after quickly encountering problems), and used a few that friends owned. This spans several cameras and card readers as well, so its not a device problem. They certainly could have improved in recent years, my experience is maybe two years old...I stopped using them after I encountered so many problems." CreationDate="2011-04-19T20:57:06.393" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16694" PostId="7541" Text="@rfusca, @John, We will go on on calling them phones, regardless of added capabilities, because that is their central purpose. We are born to communicate, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_intelligence. Danial Goleman's book 'Social Intelligence' is particularly relevant, see http://www.amazon.com/Social-Intelligence-Science-Human-Relationships/dp/0553803522" CreationDate="2011-04-19T21:39:34.073" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16695" PostId="10980" Score="2" Text="Ken Rockwell is anti-RAW. Nuff said." CreationDate="2011-04-19T22:34:09.900" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="16696" PostId="10765" Text="@mattdm - I don't think the other answers are in conflict. Certainly @Marcin hit on part of why. SUMMARIZING: @conslayer's answer really just talks to why most scenes have less natural blue light at the source. This contributes to blue being typically noisier simply because there is less signal to start with, but a sensor optimized exclusively for blue would have no trouble getting a clean blue image. The @ShutterBug answer is more talking to human eye's inability to detect blue very well and why systems are optimized to take advantage of that and are optimized for viewing as such too." CreationDate="2011-04-19T23:44:48.957" UserId="892" />
  <row Id="16697" PostId="11067" Text="@mattdm: I'd love to accept this answer, because it's well researched and reasoned as I've come to expect from your answers... But I don't feel that it covers the question I asked in its entirety. Would you consider adding a few paragraphs regarding part 1 (&quot;What is the Diagonal Method&quot;) and part 2 (&quot;how can I apply it to my photography&quot;) in order to more fully answer the question?" CreationDate="2011-04-20T00:20:08.770" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16698" PostId="11092" Text="See also my answer on http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4457/whats-the-right-discount-for-used-gear-on-craigslist/4464#4464" CreationDate="2011-04-20T00:31:15.997" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16699" PostId="11067" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: yeah, I will. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-20T00:37:10.410" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16700" PostId="11052" Text="On the D7000 at least, you can program one of your user modes to emulate the TAv mode coneslayer describes. To do this, first set your shooting mode to M, then set up the Auto ISO settings. Save these settings to U1 or U2. Having this mode means ISO is no longer the odd variable out among the variables in the exposure triangle." CreationDate="2011-04-20T03:33:49.290" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16701" PostId="11029" Text="The thing is, we have a single sensor to sense all different lights of different wavelengths. Since human eyes are more sensitive to green than to blue, sensors are designed the exact same way to replace the image we see in our eyes. Now, its normal that if a sensor is designed to sense the peak wavelength from green, it will face trouble sensing blue as blue light lack shortwavelength. So, sensor designers boost the blue which also boost noise. Its not actually a problem of blue light. Its how sensors are designed.&#xA;I'll edit my answer once your confusion is clear." CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:11:27.250" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16702" PostId="11006" Text="@che: No you don't lose focus if you tune the focus while keeping the shutter half-pressed :)" CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:14:59.603" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16703" PostId="10857" Text="The DOF Preview button won't always work in live view, either, but I do agree that it's a great way to learn about your aperture -- you can see the increase in depth of field, the darkening of the viewfinder, and if you look at the front of the camera, you can see the aperture." CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:41:43.117" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16704" PostId="10948" Text="I don't use UV filters myself, but I wouldn't call them useless. If your lens is expensive, and you aren't shooting into a bright light or don't mind flare, feel free to use one to protect your lens. On some lenses, a filter is required to complete the weather sealing, and for lenses where the front element moves in and out on zoom but the filters stay put, a filter can help prevent dust from entering the lens. I don't believe that's the case with the 18-105, and definitely not with the 18-55, so you probably don't need one." CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:47:22.550" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16705" PostId="11095" Text="Possible duplicate: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2394/how-to-get-the-best-results-with-resizing-an-image" CreationDate="2011-04-20T04:58:26.643" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16706" PostId="11074" Text="Relevant: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9936/what-are-the-advantages-disadvantages-of-sraw-or-mraw-files-compared-to-fullsize and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3419/when-shooting-in-mraw-or-sraw-how-does-the-camera-generate-smaller-files" CreationDate="2011-04-20T05:09:22.483" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16707" PostId="11088" Text="Similar to (but not quite the same as) http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3712/where-can-i-buy-a-camera-off-the-internet and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3780/whats-the-easiest-and-safest-way-to-sell-photo-gear" CreationDate="2011-04-20T05:12:50.017" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16708" PostId="11103" Text="Good question. It is an important subject." CreationDate="2011-04-20T06:18:05.207" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16709" PostId="11043" Text="Oh, I know, like I said - I have a Bessa, I just wanted to give the OP a different perspective on what they could get to experiment with shooting street on film, on the cheap." CreationDate="2011-04-20T06:35:03.650" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="16710" PostId="10903" Text="+1. The OP didn't say where the photos would be taken, finish line or during the race. The RFID solution is only really applicable at the finish line. If the photos are taken elsewhere then your Amazon Mechanical Turk suggestion would seem to be the best." CreationDate="2011-04-20T07:34:41.663" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16711" PostId="11112" Score="4" Text="Every DSLR I've ever seen has a removable lens, it's pretty much part of the spec." CreationDate="2011-04-20T07:54:52.160" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="16712" PostId="10765" Text="Also CCD suffers from blue channel noise more than CMOS. In fact I dont think for CMOS this is a noticeable problem at all." CreationDate="2011-04-20T11:18:36.550" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16713" PostId="11029" Text="Wait, hold on; isn't blue light shorter wavelengths than green or red? And speaking of red, by this explanation, why isn't the red channel as noisy as the blue?" CreationDate="2011-04-20T11:35:31.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16714" PostId="10801" Text="@chills42, this is a very well known problem when handling CMOS circuitry. Usually though it is not a problem once the IC is installed on a circuit board since charges then quickly leak away through the interconnections. Are image sensors different in this respect? I would not expect them to be, but who knows? I suppose we should keep an open mind on this until more evidence comes in." CreationDate="2011-04-20T11:42:56.393" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16715" PostId="11088" Text="The same places where you would sell it: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3780/whats-the-easiest-and-safest-way-to-sell-photo-gear" CreationDate="2011-04-20T12:10:31.113" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="16716" PostId="11029" Text="Now, I'm a little confused too! I again have read through a few light related articles and looks like I didn't understand the previous articles correctly, my apologies. Blue: 475nm, Green: 510nm and Red:650nm. So, to put it simple, since the green lies in the middle of the spectrum, sensors are designed to sense it properly. Red light has longer wavelength and they can **downscale** it without visible noise, but for blue, which has the shortest wavelength, they need to **upscale** it, which causes the most noise." CreationDate="2011-04-20T12:10:33.177" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16717" PostId="11029" Text="Hmmmm; that last may explain why the red channel is most susceptible to clipping — http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10735/why-do-bright-red-flowers-end-up-without-details" CreationDate="2011-04-20T12:31:27.157" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16718" PostId="11070" Text="+1, I would say Bob Atkin's answer is definitive. Acetone is a powerful solvent and should never be brought near a lens assembly. Ethanol is hygroscopic and will often contain quite a lot of water which leaves drying marks. One can buy the pure, reagent grade, water free form of Ethanol, but it is rather expensive. We used this in the metallurgical laboratory when preparing polished metal specimens for viewing under a microscope. It has to be critically clean in this case." CreationDate="2011-04-20T13:24:53.567" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16719" PostId="11079" Text="@Stan, good point - I didn't think of that, but it's quite true." CreationDate="2011-04-20T13:33:36.923" UserId="1772" />
  <row Id="16720" PostId="11112" Score="2" Text="Every 'current' I would say. There were actually 3 that I know of which had fixed lens, all over 10 years old." CreationDate="2011-04-20T13:47:30.110" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16721" PostId="1138" Text="Wow: &quot;your buyers remorse is sure to be strong&quot; if you buy Sony/Olympus/Pentax? You don't think that contributes to the &quot;heavily biased and usually heated&quot; atmosphere of these discussions?" CreationDate="2011-04-20T14:46:53.607" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16722" PostId="11102" Text="I guess for free sharing, any price is too much for photographer to pay :) Perhaps there should be a pricing model to enable the attendees pay for searching the pictures?" CreationDate="2011-04-20T15:07:51.177" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="16723" PostId="10948" Text="every layer you add on, decreases the quality of the pic. And covering an expensive piece of glass with a cheap UV lens, does not cut it for me. Yeah an extra filter protects, but so does the lens cap :) So I would say it is a trade off. I choose not using it." CreationDate="2011-04-20T15:10:09.983" UserId="3828" />
  <row Id="16724" PostId="6863" Text="This comparison quite clearly shows the difference between the Canon and the Tamron: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=101&amp;Camera=453&amp;Sample=0&amp;FLI=0&amp;API=0&amp;LensComp=366&amp;CameraComp=0&amp;FLIComp=0&amp;APIComp=0" CreationDate="2011-04-20T15:21:37.853" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="16725" PostId="11120" Text="Related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4116/pros-cons-of-high-iso-noise-reduction But that thread fails to distinguish raw vs. JPEG (in either the question or answers), and refers to a Nikon, not Pentax." CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:02:18.553" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16726" PostId="11120" Text="I really try not to exceed 400-800 in gain on my Kx - If you can prevent high-gain noise in the first place, that's your best option. Some shots you won't be able to remove unwanted noise without being rather destructive to the picture. Either way, @jrista below is spot-on." CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:05:57.167" UserId="4814" />
  <row Id="16727" PostId="11121" Score="3" Text="This DPReview post http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&amp;message=37729547 claims, as you say, that the high-ISO NR setting only affects JPEG processing not raw, but that there's a compulsory raw NR that occurs for ISO 3200+, independent of the setting. I wish the manufacturers would provide reliable technical information about things like this, instead of leaving it to the Internet to reverse-engineer." CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:07:44.587" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16728" PostId="11120" Text="Depending on the Pentax you're using, turning off long-exposure NR may not be possible (it was not on the K20D and K-7, but is on the K-5). Drove me nuts... I pretty much couldn't wait for the K-5 just to dump this restriction and Pentax would have lost me of that still stayed an issue." CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:07:56.473" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16729" PostId="10824" Text="@neilfein. Nope, not affiliated with Smugmug in anyway, just used them in the past!" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:29:44.487" UserId="4701" />
  <row Id="16730" PostId="11124" Text="Here is the patent, for those with the abilities to read that kind of stuff: http://www.google.com/patents?id=xOICAAAAEBAJ&amp;printsec=abstract&amp;zoom=4&amp;source=gbs_overview_r&amp;cad=0#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:40:12.357" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="16731" PostId="7160" Text="I have to disagree. One master will typically have many similar assignments, which means you can only learn so much from him. Also, you will only be exposed to opinions of a single person. Also, for a beginner, it will be hard to distinguish a true master from a fanatic shooter. &quot;Best&quot; is a word too broad." CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:49:43.347" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="16732" PostId="11125" Text="wow...now any idea how many limbs one would require for this lens/system" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:59:48.470" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="16733" PostId="11125" Text="I like your point about apparent depth of field." CreationDate="2011-04-20T17:59:57.550" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16734" PostId="11125" Text="@mjrider you can only rent the system from Panavison, though no doubt it would be pricey. Not sure why you'd want one to do anything but macro (most likely wildlife) video with though, for still macro photography a set of bellows and focus stacking will get you there for a fraction of the price!" CreationDate="2011-04-20T18:14:26.920" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16737" PostId="11132" Text="F-stop or ISO isn't a problem in my case at all. All I care about is shutter speed. I can adjust the rest properly and I have the lenses to be 'unlimited'. I just think 1/30 produces a blurry result, I don't know why I can't use for example 1/500 ?" CreationDate="2011-04-20T20:51:10.083" UserId="4822" />
  <row Id="16739" PostId="11125" Text="is this only for a view camera then? " CreationDate="2011-04-20T21:37:24.770" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="16740" PostId="11121" Text="Aye, when it comes to Pentax, their hardware image processor does some pretty superb and always-on noise processing. In some conversations with some other avid Pentax users from our community, it seems Pentax had the misfortune of using some pretty noisy sensors in the past, which has lead to them developing algorithms to combat it and remain competitive. That has left them with some of todays best noise performers on the market. I wouldn't worry about that compulsory NR in Pentax DSLR's, as it is pretty high quality deconvolution." CreationDate="2011-04-20T21:50:45.507" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16742" PostId="3390" Text="possible duplicate of [What is the best external flash for Nikon beginner?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4558/what-is-the-best-external-flash-for-nikon-beginner)" CreationDate="2011-04-20T22:35:51.257" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16743" PostId="11125" Text="It's for super-35 format movie cameras with a PL mount." CreationDate="2011-04-20T22:58:01.590" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="16744" PostId="11132" Text="@Rimmer - Now, that you gave up on extensive DOF, you can open up but it will cost you ;) What need it to make sure your subjects is in focus and the wider your aperture, the harder it is, since your subjects are apparently moving." CreationDate="2011-04-20T23:03:56.473" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16745" PostId="11132" Score="1" Text="@Rimmer - [Part 2] You can use 1/500s or even faster if you like but the motion will look more jerky. The effect of motion relies on our brain seeing the similarity between each frame and *fusing* them into a continuous motion. The faster the shutter-speed the larger the gap between images which makes it harder for the mind to interpolate continuous motion." CreationDate="2011-04-20T23:06:32.413" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16748" PostId="10765" Text="@mattdm, @Marcin: The explanation about Foveon is partly true, however that is not the sole reason. Foveon sensels put the blue photodiodes on the top layer, where they directly receive incoming light. Normal bayer sensors tend to have circuitry that interferes with the photodiodes of each photosite, and that circuitry absorbs some light, particularly blue. Back-illuminated bayer designs suffer much less from this problem." CreationDate="2011-04-20T23:44:14.547" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16749" PostId="11132" Text="OK well, I get this, so the ultimate question: are f/1.8 or f/2.8 lenses useful for shooting movies during the day with a lot of lightning, when I will be setting them to f/12 anyway? is there any difference between using f/1.8 lens set to f/12 and f/4 lens set to f/12 ? we're talking about perfect lightning conditions here, no dark scenes..." CreationDate="2011-04-21T00:00:14.417" UserId="4822" />
  <row Id="16750" PostId="11132" Text="Differences, yes, probably minor depending on the model. Between a 50mm F/1.8 and a 50mm F/2.8 at F/11 it can be nearly identical, but between a 50-200mm @ 50mm F/11 and 50mm F/1.8 @ F/11, differences are greater: Primes are often constructed of fewer elements, so they are less prone to flare. Other optical characteristics of the lens such as distortion and vignetting still apply at F/11, a little further F/13+ and you will hit the diffraction limit, reducing quality equally for all lenses." CreationDate="2011-04-21T01:20:05.940" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16755" PostId="10943" Text="Wow, great stuff here! I put a new SDHC card in my camera, formatted it and the new images don't have the bad spots in them. To tell you the truth, I didn't know how easy it was to format a card. Later, when I have more time, I will take some shots with the old card after formatting it in the camera. I'm curious to know if formatting would fix the old card because I would like to store some photos on it. I tried to include an example of the problem I was having, but I am a new user and the system won't let me upload photos. I'll try again after I take more shots but since the new formatted car" CreationDate="2011-04-16T03:44:55.657" UserId="4762" />
  <row Id="16756" PostId="11111" Score="2" Text="Could you clarify why, provide some references and quotations?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T01:43:00.973" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16760" PostId="2887" Text="Depending on the timing, I can get either really great critical feedback, or hardly anything useful.  2/5" CreationDate="2011-04-21T03:27:40.373" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16761" PostId="2895" Text="photoSIG's idea is good, but I find their submission interface and requirements a bit annoying. In addition, it is packed with users and submissions: a lot of stuff gets little to no feedback and the only incentive to give feedback is to submit more photos for critique, which are often ignored. 0/5" CreationDate="2011-04-21T03:32:20.353" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16762" PostId="2902" Text="A good place for beginners, but sometimes PhotoCamel lacks the critical feedback I'm looking for. 2/5" CreationDate="2011-04-21T03:34:10.383" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16763" PostId="5936" Text="'And in the end, the love you _take_, is equal to the love you _make_' - Sir Paul McCartney" CreationDate="2011-04-21T05:43:41.947" UserId="2337" />
  <row Id="16764" PostId="5940" Text="I think @Philip Goh's example demonstrates that most photographers are probably doing **both** things...simultaneously taking *and* making photographs. I'm not sure its always just one or the other...I think quite often, it is a combination of both. Even in landscape photography, you encounter one of those rarer, simply fantastic scenes with superb lighting, and just have to &quot;take&quot; a photograph of it...and in the process, you just might &quot;make&quot; a work of art at the same time. ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-21T06:10:06.357" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16765" PostId="10433" Text="@Stijn I went with the 4 million dollar home .. very happy with crumpler" CreationDate="2011-04-21T06:36:25.663" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="16766" PostId="11142" Score="1" Text="+1 for the ND filter which is a widely used DSLR accessoir for shooting with an open aperture." CreationDate="2011-04-21T06:51:45.000" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="16767" PostId="11113" Text="It is not so much the volume as it is that I don't really think verbally about images.  I'll take a few hundred and upload a half dozen at most.  To me the point just seems too obvious for words most of the time." CreationDate="2011-04-21T09:25:44.873" UserId="3444" />
  <row Id="16768" PostId="11113" Text="I give my photos often absolutely silly names that come up my mind in an associative way. Hope this helps!" CreationDate="2011-04-21T09:50:15.863" UserId="4807" />
  <row Id="16769" PostId="8432" Text="@mattdm, yes, agreed, that buys a lot of batteries. But, he asked for an additional battery source such as lithium. Generally I try to avoid second guessing the question (we see too much of that). The incidental advantage is the other uses it can be put to." CreationDate="2011-04-21T11:42:20.543" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="16770" PostId="11145" Score="1" Text="Hi ile. Does http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10715/why-do-my-photos-look-different-in-photoshop-lightroom-vs-canon-eos-utility-in-ca answer your question?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T11:44:43.030" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16771" PostId="9497" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10715/why-do-my-photos-look-different-in-photoshop-lightroom-vs-canon-eos-utility-in-ca" CreationDate="2011-04-21T11:45:18.443" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16772" PostId="10715" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9497/why-is-aperture-changing-the-color-of-my-raw-photos" CreationDate="2011-04-21T11:47:27.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16773" PostId="11144" Score="3" Text="Extension tubes are not *just* for macro shooting. They're often used to focus inside the close-focusing distance of longer lenses for wildlife and beauty shots as well, so autofocus does matter, at least on the shorter tubes." CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:36:53.303" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16774" PostId="11135" Text="This is by far the best answer to my question, only if you could tell us further: what shutter speeds (do you think) were used in The Bourne Identity? I know the movie from start to end so I wonder what did you mean. Do you think they used fast shutter speeds? What is a fast shutter speed when shooting a movie? Is 1/200 fast? 1/500 ? 1/2000 ?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T12:43:07.177" UserId="4822" />
  <row Id="16775" PostId="11148" Text="I'm not positive, but I suspect that the AF-capable tubes only work with screw-drive AF lenses. That's fine for most lenses, but if you have an SDM-only lens, they may not provide AF functionality." CreationDate="2011-04-21T13:30:54.293" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16776" PostId="11148" Text="You can also come across the bellows set made by Pentax on sites like Craigslist from time to time. I usually end up not buying it and then kicking myself later..." CreationDate="2011-04-21T13:40:54.110" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16777" PostId="7861" Text="I ended up shooting outdoors on an overcast day, and the pictures seemed to come out well." CreationDate="2011-04-21T15:04:35.970" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="16778" PostId="11135" Score="1" Text="Something to think about when you're picking a shutter speed is if you're shooting with practical light sources you need to try to sync with the mains AC frequency or you'll see strobing from the lights.  In the US that means multiples of 1/60 and elsewhere 1/50." CreationDate="2011-04-21T15:07:05.000" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="16779" PostId="3404" Text="Nope, D3000 cannot use its popup flash as a wireless commander." CreationDate="2011-04-21T15:42:40.213" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="16781" PostId="11154" Text="Indeed, seems like a great lens. I better take the _insurance_ with it :) " CreationDate="2011-04-21T16:45:07.897" UserId="1732" />
  <row Id="16782" PostId="11150" Text="Also - make sure to get all the updates from Adobe.  I wasn't able to access all my camera profiles until I did that." CreationDate="2011-04-21T17:42:23.370" UserId="687" />
  <row Id="16783" PostId="4797" Text="very nice http://gfxne.ws/2011/02/adobe-photoshop-light-room-whether-youre-perfecting-one-image software i am useing this one thanks" CreationDate="2011-04-21T13:09:27.143" UserId="4830" />
  <row Id="16785" PostId="11158" Text="@NickC sounds stupid" CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:48:19.213" UserId="4835" />
  <row Id="16786" PostId="11121" Text="Thanks, just the confirmation I was looking for." CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:50:58.067" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16787" PostId="11158" Text="@Amanda I hope you meant that in a kindly way as a commentary on the technology, not the response.  Were you perhaps looking for elaboration?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:55:17.320" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16788" PostId="11158" Score="2" Text="@whuber - Yes, I just meant that it seems like a useless technology for what most use their basic digital cameras for." CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:01:15.317" UserId="4835" />
  <row Id="16789" PostId="11157" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [How do I go about creating 3D photographs?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9100/how-do-i-go-about-creating-3d-photographs)" CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:15:05.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16790" PostId="11158" Score="2" Text="What is this technology called, or who makes it? Is this a hardware technology (e.g. camera) or a software technology? You say &quot;taking 20 consecutive photos&quot; -- are they taken from different camera positions or what? What is MPO?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:20:46.830" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16792" PostId="11158" Text="Panasonic is the only company that makes it that i'm aware of and its a hardware technology.  The 20 consecutive photos are taken in the same way you would take a panoramic photo. And MPO is a 3D file type. " CreationDate="2011-04-21T20:10:14.570" UserId="4836" />
  <row Id="16793" PostId="11158" Score="8" Text="@NickC: I think that what @coneslayer is driving at was that you should provide a more comprehensive answer than you currently have, and he was providing some additional clarifying questions with which you could update your answer..." CreationDate="2011-04-21T20:29:12.017" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16794" PostId="11154" Score="1" Text="That's a full-frame lens, not wide at all when used on a DX body such as the D5000." CreationDate="2011-04-21T21:57:58.257" UserId="2648" />
  <row Id="16795" PostId="11154" Score="1" Text="Thanks Julio. I will most likely go for  Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 then.   " CreationDate="2011-04-21T22:12:13.873" UserId="1732" />
  <row Id="16796" PostId="11159" Score="3" Text="Did you read the manual of canon ?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T22:41:06.723" UserId="236" />
  <row Id="16797" PostId="11154" Text="@Julio The fact it was a D5000 camera wasn't included in the question at the time I answered." CreationDate="2011-04-21T22:44:08.043" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="16798" PostId="11159" Score="4" Text="Can you clarify what you mean by &quot;tried this copyright function&quot;? How did you copy your pictures to the laptop? Did you do something different from what you normally do (and did that work?) What OS are you running?" CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:20:57.610" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16799" PostId="11160" Text="I understand that if I shoot with RAW I can change the white balance after the fact.  However, I would prefer to understand how to do this in JPG to better understand what is going on inside my camera." CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:22:08.090" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="16800" PostId="11154" Score="1" Text="It was. Please look at the revisions. " CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:39:26.013" UserId="1732" />
  <row Id="16801" PostId="3037" Text="See also this related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10076/what-is-color-temperature-and-how-does-it-affect-my-photography" CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:42:45.913" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16802" PostId="10076" Text="See also this related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3037/what-is-the-meaning-of-white-balance" CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:43:30.267" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16803" PostId="9551" Text="Great job on providing a detailed description. The examples you used for the &quot;wrong way&quot; vs &quot;right way&quot; are terrific as well. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:49:13.023" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="16804" PostId="11135" Text="@RiMMER To be honest, I have no idea. I would consider that around 1/200 or 1/500 is fast enough to freeze most actions without motion blur, so sure, that would be 'fast' for me. As for what Doug Liman actually used.... your guess is as good as mine." CreationDate="2011-04-21T23:51:22.560" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="16805" PostId="11162" Score="1" Text="+1, because, yes. However, on my camera (a Pentax K-7), I find the enhancement effect too strong for my liking." CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:05:57.463" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16806" PostId="11162" Score="1" Text="Oh, also, is this a Pentax-specific thing?" CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:07:21.173" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16807" PostId="11160" Score="2" Text="@fmark: there's not really a difference between fiddling with the RAW image and fiddling with the JPEG AWS settings. In fact you may be able to get a better sense of what is going on using RAW data, since you can see as many white balance settings as you want for the image." CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:20:54.840" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16808" PostId="11162" Text="@mattdm - The enhancement effect depends on the color-mode too. So if it is too strong on 'Bright', then on 'Faithful' or 'Neutral' it should be better. Forget Vivid, everything is too much there :)" CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:23:24.703" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16809" PostId="11162" Score="1" Text="Yes, only Pentax has it for now." CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:24:22.847" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16810" PostId="11162" Text="@Itai – interesting point; thanks. I switched a while ago from using Bright routinely to Natural with saturation turned down a notch. I may be overly-sensitive to such things. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:28:00.260" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16811" PostId="11153" Score="1" Text="10-24mm Nikkor lens is loads of fun. Like any wide lens, it's harder to use than you would expect because creatively, wide lenses push things away and make everything small. To counteract this you must proactively get really close to your subjects and have backgrounds clear of distractions. But if you do, the results can be breathtaking." CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:35:34.780" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="16812" PostId="11127" Text="This might gather more and/or better answers over on apple-SE or superuser-SE. Just a thought..." CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:40:40.270" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16813" PostId="11165" Text="Oh dear.  I'm sure you are most certainly correct.  But I forgot to add to my question, &quot;Please talk to me like I'm stupid.&quot; :)  I was hoping for a completely lay explanation." CreationDate="2011-04-22T01:01:24.460" UserId="4477" />
  <row Id="16814" PostId="11166" Text="Thank you for this excellent explanation.  I still remain unclear; why one would purchase a pure telephoto lens?  Comparing with zoom lens, it seems like a good zoom lens can often offer similarly large focal lengths as a pure telephoto lens." CreationDate="2011-04-22T02:09:32.263" UserId="4477" />
  <row Id="16815" PostId="11166" Score="4" Text="a lens can be both a telephoto and a zoom.&#xA;&#xA;Also, non-zoom lenses ('prime' or 'fixed focal length' lenses) are often sharper and faster than zooms that cover the same focal length. The zooms on the other hand give you the convenience of being able to zoom as opposed to having to switch lenses. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T02:15:58.527" UserId="4758" />
  <row Id="16816" PostId="11168" Text="Great answer.  Thanks for the systematic comparison of the different permutations.  I found it very helpful." CreationDate="2011-04-22T02:34:33.490" UserId="4477" />
  <row Id="16817" PostId="11166" Text="@enthdegree, excellent, thanks for elaborating." CreationDate="2011-04-22T02:38:04.423" UserId="4477" />
  <row Id="16818" PostId="10980" Text="@enthdegree: your most recent edit made the end of the first paragraph not make sense. And, as for the new request to rate the sites on an absolute scale, I think that falls under &quot;subjective and argumentative&quot; — no one can reasonably fulfill that request beyond the existing answers. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T03:30:53.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16819" PostId="11162" Score="1" Text="Interesting... I've never tried that on my K-5, I may have to take a look at that. I usually just leave it in auto, since I shoot raw, and then adjust after, but I'd be curious to see what the effect is with this setting." CreationDate="2011-04-22T03:37:36.290" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16820" PostId="11160" Text="@Henry Jackson - Actually, there is a difference between them. Bear in mind that successive edits to JPEG is lossy, so if you shoot JPEG, try to get the white balance correct because changing it will result in data loss on save. If you shoot raw, it doesn't matter, the white balance correction is part of the processing anyways, so the outcome is very flexible without data loss." CreationDate="2011-04-22T03:39:44.567" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16821" PostId="11160" Score="2" Text="@John Cavan - what is the difference between a JPEG shot with white balance of 5000 K and a RAW file adjusted to 5000 K. They should give the same result, right? The main difference is that once the JPEG is shot, the white balance cannot be changed (without loosing some data). Ditto for exposure and other settings -- a RAW file can look exactly like the JPEG, except you can change more things." CreationDate="2011-04-22T04:03:27.967" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16822" PostId="11168" Score="1" Text="Just a quick note that these are based on a sensor/film size somewhere close to the APS-C to 35mm size range. On a large format camera, a 50mm lens is a very wide angle lens. On a really small sensor like a typical P&amp;S digital uses, a 50mm is a pretty long telephoto (angle of view equivalent to ~200-300 mm on a 35mm)." CreationDate="2011-04-22T04:03:43.487" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16823" PostId="11159" Text="@Aristos I love how that sounds all regal and religious. But, yes: RTM." CreationDate="2011-04-22T05:39:46.597" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="16824" PostId="11165" Text="Hah, I assumed you either knew that information or could easily figure it out, but I like to give very concise answers :)" CreationDate="2011-04-22T06:18:36.567" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="16825" PostId="11159" Score="1" Text="Further to @mattdm's questions, are you shooting in RAW or JPEG?" CreationDate="2011-04-22T06:42:57.003" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="16826" PostId="11161" Text="AD Aside thing: hotter white is toward reds, cooler toward blues. But if you set your WB to cool colour some light sources on image will be rendered hotter, because blue is white everything else is hotter. Basically it's the way that it should be." CreationDate="2011-04-22T08:00:58.807" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="16827" PostId="10832" Score="1" Text="I would expect the mirror to flip up and down as well if the camera were resetting to &quot;normal&quot; before taking the picture, but it doesn't. If they can bother to program the camera to not flip the mirror, it seems like they could avoid moving the aperture, too. Plus, the aperture movements take time; this adds delay to the shot. I'm still leaning towards there being a reason besides programmer laziness/lack of resources here." CreationDate="2011-04-22T09:10:48.637" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16828" PostId="11160" Text="@Henry Jackson - This is exactly @john's point, although there *should* be no difference between a JPEG @ 5000K and a RAW processed @ 5000K, the RAW's temp can be changed w/o loss of color data, while JPEG will suffer from a loss when WB is changed in post. That said, for **one** change of WB, the loss is really minimal and should be noticeable only on special situations." CreationDate="2011-04-22T10:36:53.697" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16829" PostId="10832" Text="Old joke on the value of getting back to a known state: A mathematician is asked: &quot;Suppose you walked by a burning house and saw a hydrant and a hose not connected to the hydrant.  What would you do?&quot; He answers: &quot;I would attach the hose to the hydrant, turn on the water, and put out the fire.&quot;&#xA;&#xA;Then he was asked: &quot;Suppose you walked by a house and saw a hose connected to a hydrant.  What would you do?&quot; He responded: &quot;I would disconnect the hose from the hydrant and set the house on fire, reducing the problem to a previously solved form.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-22T11:23:17.773" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16830" PostId="11159" Text="Possibly related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11127/why-cant-i-read-a-2gb-cf-card-from-a-mac-or-pc-after-having-formatted-it-on-a-30" CreationDate="2011-04-22T11:56:38.200" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16833" PostId="19" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7904/how-does-background-blur-bokeh-in-relate-to-sensor-size" CreationDate="2011-04-22T12:26:58.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16834" PostId="19" Text="Also covered here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9980/what-are-the-depth-of-field-capabilities-of-point-shoot-cameras/10001#10001" CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:05:57.477" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16835" PostId="19" Text="Its covered in both, but the answers on the first one are a bit lacking." CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:14:00.743" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16837" PostId="11177" Text="I'd actually say that, for the case of a single line kite at least, there'd be much less likelihood of loosing control of it than there would of loosing control of an RC plane or helicopter. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:47:57.330" UserId="3263" />
  <row Id="16838" PostId="11179" Score="2" Text="@mdresser: Just curious where you got the graphic from? It's very informative, but I'm suspicious that photo-SE may not have the rights to use it... Unless the rights are yours to give, it needs to be a link to the source..." CreationDate="2011-04-22T13:53:11.050" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16839" PostId="11177" Score="1" Text="I must suffer from some sort of Charlie Brown syndrome; my experience (as an amateur, mind you) has quite a few more rough landings than smooth ones.  I'm sure a more skilled flier would be more comfortable putting expensive equipment on board." CreationDate="2011-04-22T14:18:12.423" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16840" PostId="11160" Text="@Henry Jackson - That's my point. You earlier stated that there wasn't really any difference, but there is, raw is non-destructive editing and that's a ***huge*** difference." CreationDate="2011-04-22T15:43:59.737" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16841" PostId="11160" Score="1" Text="@John Cavan - I think we're in agreement. The final result of the same white balance settings, applied either in-camera to the JPEG or post-production to the RAW, will give the same result. All I was saying was that there is no reason for @fmark to prefer JPEG for white balance experiments -- quite the opposite, in fact." CreationDate="2011-04-22T16:05:22.943" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="16842" PostId="11153" Text="Shooting an ultra-wide is challenging. I got the Tokina to get a taste for something beyond 18mm and you really have to wrap your head around what happens when you go that wide. The perspective distortion can do some cool things, but it takes practice to get use to it.  " CreationDate="2011-04-22T16:17:01.993" UserId="3758" />
  <row Id="16843" PostId="10980" Text="Oops, I'll fix that. &#xA;&#xA;I think the question can be answered and has been. The general consensus is that Thom's writings have bearing on reality and Ken Rockwell's do not as much." CreationDate="2011-04-22T16:40:51.730" UserId="4758" />
  <row Id="16844" PostId="10832" Text="@Evan: I would assume that mirror flip is an &quot;action taken&quot;, not a &quot;state&quot;. The aperture IS a state that also happens to require an action to set...but I think there is a distinct difference between aperture and mirror. Even if you enable mirror lockup, it flipping the mirror is a secondary &quot;action&quot; involved in the process of exposure...where as aperture, iso, shutter, are all active settings...state...required to perform exposure." CreationDate="2011-04-22T17:05:51.587" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16846" PostId="11161" Text="+1 for sunlight. It's my &quot;go-to&quot; WB because (1) it usually produces the image similar to how I perceive the scene (color casts intact, sort of) and (2) having constant WB might cut some corners in post. FWIW, my Canon rates its sunlight WB as &quot;approx. 5200 K&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-22T17:39:10.003" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16847" PostId="11182" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4779/confused-about-dpis-large-jpg-file-to-print and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2041/what-does-dpi-mean. I don't think we've got this straightforward question covered directly though. (So, +1!)" CreationDate="2011-04-22T18:53:59.003" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16848" PostId="11184" Text="Print, or view on-screen for that matter. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T19:14:14.477" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16849" PostId="11177" Score="5" Text="@D. Lambert... not cool" CreationDate="2011-04-22T19:48:19.750" UserId="4847" />
  <row Id="16851" PostId="11182" Text="Well right. I am not asking what *is* DPI. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T19:53:39.497" UserId="4333" />
  <row Id="16852" PostId="11185" Score="2" Text="I realize now that for images coming from scanner, dpi field carries real meaning, so that's why that field is there. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T19:55:37.840" UserId="4333" />
  <row Id="16853" PostId="10832" Text="I don't see how &quot;mirror up&quot; doesn't count as a state, especially since you have to be in the mirror-up state before opening the shutter, and, ignoring live view, you have to be in the mirror-down state to autofocus, meter, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-22T20:01:04.133" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16855" PostId="11186" Score="4" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9980/what-are-the-depth-of-field-capabilities-of-point-shoot-cameras/10001#10001" CreationDate="2011-04-22T20:30:10.557" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="16856" PostId="11186" Score="3" Text="Go to http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html and select your camera from the list (it's there) and you can experiment to your heart's content with the settings." CreationDate="2011-04-22T20:33:48.023" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16857" PostId="11186" Score="2" Text="@Misty Bancroft: there's nothing particularly strange abou your specific camera in this regard. Are the other questions not addressing what you need?" CreationDate="2011-04-22T20:34:56.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16858" PostId="3097" Text="@Eruditass - the Amazon link you provided no longer works. Can you update your link?" CreationDate="2011-04-22T21:07:30.897" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="16860" PostId="11186" Text="Elendil...that website was VERY helpful, I hadn't seen it on any of the other posts. It perfectly explained what I wanted to know. Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:17:12.563" UserId="4846" />
  <row Id="16861" PostId="11186" Text="Mattdm...Um, don't you think if the other questions were addressing what I wanted to know, then I would've found my answer and not posted? I don't post just to post." CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:17:57.320" UserId="4846" />
  <row Id="16862" PostId="11186" Text="I have another question. If creating bokeh is related to the lens, can different lens adaptors or filters be purchased to make it easier?" CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:44:45.717" UserId="4846" />
  <row Id="16863" PostId="11186" Score="1" Text="@Misty: The stack exchange system works best when questions are not posted as followup comments. You should take your followup question and pose it as an entirely new question..." CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:46:46.533" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16864" PostId="11186" Score="2" Text="@Misty: ...and I think your response to @mattdm was rather rude, especially since you seemed to like @ElendilTheTall's comment and the information he provided you with was available to you *directly* if you'd bothered to read @D.Lambert's referenced answer above. Just sayin'..." CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:50:04.937" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16865" PostId="11186" Text="@Misty: there's a lot of information in those posts, and it all _seems_ to cover what you are asking and your camera. So if there's something unique or unanswered, you should focus your question on that. I'm not saying this to shut you our or anything. It's just more likely to get helpful answers. " CreationDate="2011-04-22T23:16:53.737" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16866" PostId="11186" Score="2" Text="@Misty — the question about bokeh and add-on lenses and filters is interesting. Please do ask it separately!" CreationDate="2011-04-23T00:59:28.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16867" PostId="11029" Text="@ShutterBug — I think this is probably closest to a real, meaningful answer. Basically, current sensor tech can only be responsive to a limited range of light, and since green/yellow is a) in the middle and b) so important to human vision, sensor response is centered there, at the expense of both longer and shorter wavelengths. Does that sound right? I don't understand exactly what you're saying about upscaling and downscaling wavelengths, though. That sounds like something totally different. Do you have references to some of those articles? Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-23T01:41:28.160" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16868" PostId="10765" Text="@Tall Jeff: so, _why_ would it cost more to make sensor optimized for blue? Not necessarily _specially_ optimized, but made such that blue isn't noisier than red?" CreationDate="2011-04-23T01:45:18.890" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16869" PostId="11179" Text="Looks like it's from a 30-year-old book. http://books.google.com/books?id=a5IgqOYZzEwC&amp;dq=editions:a5IgqOYZzEwC Unfortunately, we can't just include that, as informative and interesting as it is. @mdresser, could you please summarize instead? Sorry, but, y'know, following the law and so on." CreationDate="2011-04-23T02:06:19.973" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16871" PostId="10760" Text="@John Cavan — thanks, that link is super-informative. Do you think you could summarize some of it into an answer? Also, how well does it generalize from scientific instruments to photography market gear, and from CCD to CMOS?" CreationDate="2011-04-23T03:30:07.327" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16872" PostId="10832" Text="&quot;Mirror up&quot; is simply part of the action of taking an exposure. Its not a preconfigured setting like aperture, shutter speed, and ISO that persists for a given machine state. The &quot;sate&quot; is not &quot;mirror up&quot;...the state is &quot;expose photograph&quot; or &quot;record live view&quot;. Flipping the mirror up and down is simply an activity that is required to enter one of those states." CreationDate="2011-04-23T04:34:51.617" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="16873" PostId="11179" Text="I went ahead and removed the offending images." CreationDate="2011-04-23T05:44:07.900" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16874" PostId="11155" Text="For the D5000 you'd want the 10.5DX fisheye, though autofocus would not be supported." CreationDate="2011-04-23T10:16:59.243" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="16875" PostId="11153" Text="Or the 10.5mm DX fisheye." CreationDate="2011-04-23T10:17:25.187" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="16877" PostId="11189" Score="1" Text="+1 Great question.  You inspired me to ask a related question about [technique for capturing a meteor shower](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11192/what-technique-and-settings-should-i-use-to-capture-meteor-showers)." CreationDate="2011-04-23T11:38:26.450" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="16878" PostId="11187" Text="I've rolled back the firmware to the official one and tried to re-format the cards on the camera with no luck. I can't format the cards on a mac/pc because neither sees the device. :(" CreationDate="2011-04-23T11:40:12.307" UserId="4818" />
  <row Id="16879" PostId="11184" Text="I don't think printing is where the DPI should (theoretically) resolve from. This is a photo, so the dimensions of the field-of-view of the camera, divided by the resolution, would be the *actual* dpi of the photo." CreationDate="2011-04-23T11:44:38.270" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16880" PostId="11184" Text="Therefore, it seems to me that if you know the angle of view of the camera's lens, and the camera had some manner of ranging facility (ultrasonic?) to measure the distance to what it is pointing at, the values could be populated with a (rough, perhaps) meaningful value." CreationDate="2011-04-23T11:45:53.323" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16881" PostId="10980" Text="@Nick Bedford - Yeah, he is **completely** off his nut when it comes to RAW. Apparently he *NEVER* slightly under or overexposes an image, gets dust spots, or has Chromatic aberration issues. EVER." CreationDate="2011-04-23T12:00:19.607" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16882" PostId="11158" Text="....What? The only *genuine* 3D cameras that I know of are the Panasonic FinePix REAL 3D W1, which has **two lenses**, and takes one picture at a time (well, two images (one with each lens/sensor), which is stores in the same file), and some of the conversion lenses for video cameras, which have two lenses as well, and simply project two images onto a single sensor, side by side. I have never heard of the &quot;20 images&quot; thing. " CreationDate="2011-04-23T12:05:34.437" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16883" PostId="11193" Text="By this definition, does _anyone_ ever make anything, short of via nuclear fusion? I mean, the molecules are already there; people just arrange them. " CreationDate="2011-04-23T12:41:53.907" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16884" PostId="11184" Text="@Fake Name - How about just using the focus-distance? As a matter of fact, you can probably write a small program that does this after the fact if your camera stores the focus-distance in the EXIF (only some do unfortunately)." CreationDate="2011-04-23T13:02:53.350" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16886" PostId="459" Text="http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8661/photographing-a-non-full-moon" CreationDate="2011-04-23T13:23:47.350" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16887" PostId="11179" Text="I notice that there's ten copies of this book available on Amazon for 99¢. Seems like a good investment if one has any interest in this! http://www.amazon.com/Kites-Other-Machines-Andre-Thiebault/dp/0806954647 " CreationDate="2011-04-23T13:33:28.407" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16888" PostId="11173" Text="&quot;Unique selling points&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-04-23T13:34:17.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16889" PostId="11200" Text="Thanks. But why is that metering leaves first and then recomposing required? " CreationDate="2011-04-23T14:54:12.870" UserId="4705" />
  <row Id="16890" PostId="11201" Text="How will I set -2/3? Is this through the exposure compensation option available in the camera?" CreationDate="2011-04-23T14:55:11.230" UserId="4705" />
  <row Id="16891" PostId="11201" Text="@Appu What camera?" CreationDate="2011-04-23T15:08:57.547" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="16892" PostId="11201" Text="I am using Canon 500D" CreationDate="2011-04-23T15:13:26.963" UserId="4705" />
  <row Id="16893" PostId="11201" Text="@Appu: It absolutely can. It depends a bit on which mode you are in, but if you are in aV or tV mode, then you simply turn the dial down such that the arrow is -2/3rd from the 0. I think program mode can do the same thing, but none of the fully auto modes can." CreationDate="2011-04-23T15:17:01.950" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="16894" PostId="11201" Text="thanks a lot. I will figure that out" CreationDate="2011-04-23T15:19:52.167" UserId="4705" />
  <row Id="16895" PostId="11200" Score="4" Text="Because he wanted to spot meter off the leaves for the exposure setting and spot metering uses just the very center of the frame - but he didn't want to take a picture of the leaves in the very center of the frame." CreationDate="2011-04-23T15:39:18.130" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16896" PostId="11198" Text="If he doesn't want star trails at 5-10 minutes, he's going to have to have some sidereal tracking." CreationDate="2011-04-23T15:43:38.300" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16897" PostId="11202" Text="That's not going to show &quot;events&quot; like he's asking for I believe." CreationDate="2011-04-23T16:06:36.697" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16898" PostId="11173" Text="Correctamundo..." CreationDate="2011-04-23T16:13:03.500" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16899" PostId="11200" Text="Actually I think he mostly uses center-weighted metering in his examples. Also, spot metering meters the spot of your choice, not just the center - that's the whole point of it. @Appu: I believe this is in his 'Green Jeans' section. This, and his other sections like 'Brother Reflecting Sky', are ways of getting reliable metering results when faced with difficult lighting situations. So, in shady situations under leaves, you meter off of the leaves, and this generally gives you the correct exposure for the rest of the scene." CreationDate="2011-04-23T16:16:49.303" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16900" PostId="11200" Text="thanks a lot for the explanation. " CreationDate="2011-04-23T16:26:39.547" UserId="4705" />
  <row Id="16901" PostId="11202" Score="1" Text="Not all of them, but sometimes it's still very useful for me. Usually I just read: &quot;the next night there will be a lunar eclipse on Jupiter&quot;. With this software I can &quot;simulate&quot; the event, find exact time, location, it helps the preparation. At least for me." CreationDate="2011-04-23T16:27:56.520" UserId="507" />
  <row Id="16902" PostId="11198" Text="@rfusca - The technique I linked to is somewhat similar to catching lightening, you point, open the shutter, and try to capture something in passing and so you can use an equatorial mount to keep you on target and eliminate star trails." CreationDate="2011-04-23T17:11:19.587" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16903" PostId="11205" Score="1" Text="I seem to recall seeing somewhere that the problem was more of a factor on cropped sensors. Can't recall where though, I'll have a think. I believe he shows an example of a shot taken at f/16 and f/22, but if he was using a full-frame camera, which as a pro I'm sure he was, perhaps it wasn't such an issue." CreationDate="2011-04-23T17:35:14.397" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16904" PostId="11193" Text="Also, I'm not sure the dictionary actually agrees with this limited definition of _make_. Read through http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/make or http://www.oed.com/view/Entry/112645?rskey=XTdvSk&amp;result=4&amp;isAdvanced=false" CreationDate="2011-04-23T17:46:25.467" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16905" PostId="11193" Text="The question of whether professional (or other non-professional expert photographers) do something fundamentally different than tourists on vacation is an interesting one, although I'm afraid it falls pretty heavily on the argumentative side of &quot;subjective and argumentative&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-23T17:48:11.397" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16906" PostId="11208" Text="So, your third point seems to argue that in some ways he's right. If some parts look substantially sharper than others, that may be less desirable than an even picture, even without as much absolute sharpness." CreationDate="2011-04-23T18:52:20.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16907" PostId="11029" Text="While it's not a down-to-the-deep-science &quot;why&quot; answer, Goethe's observations on color weight might be relevant here. http://books.google.com/books?id=ofvRhNBgoCoC&amp;pg=PA59&amp;lpg=PA59#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false" CreationDate="2011-04-23T18:55:13.547" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16908" PostId="11194" Score="4" Text="When you are taking your photos it is good to keep an eye on the histogram and when you see a high value on the far right hand side you will want to decrease you exposure until there is not such a large value there. When you see a high value to the right (white) or left (black) of a histogram it means that there is no detail in that area, it is just a blob of solid white or black.&#xA;&#xA;In Lightroom 3 you can use the recovery slider as Matt Grum has stated to try and recover any detail that may be available, but if there is no data then there is nothing to recover. " CreationDate="2011-04-23T19:10:05.100" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="16909" PostId="11208" Text="@mattdm: yes and no. It can mean that the loss of sharpness doesn't have as obvious of an effect in a print (for example) as it might seem like. It does *not* mean that you aren't losing sharpness though..." CreationDate="2011-04-23T19:20:27.693" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16910" PostId="11208" Text="Right, but if you lose sharpness at the expense of a more-even (though lower) sharpness overall, that seems like it may be desirable in many photographs...." CreationDate="2011-04-23T19:53:43.363" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16911" PostId="11209" Score="1" Text="Is it just an incidental happenstance of our current CMOS and CCD technology? Is it because of the color filters used, or because of the actual photodiodes? What about back-illuminated sensors? With the typical Bayer layout, there's twice as many green sensors as red and blue; without this, would blue still be worse than green? Why is red apparently better than blue even though there are the same number of photosites? Do CCD and CMOS sensors have a similar response? Or, what about Foveon, which I know has some issues in the red channel? What about, for that mater, blue in color film?" CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:22:36.710" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16912" PostId="11208" Text="@mattdm Yes, a vast depth of field is nice in some photographs, and unnecessary in others. If you're in the first category, you don't have much choice but to accept diffraction." CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:26:34.023" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16914" PostId="10765" Text="@ShutterBug: it is empirically true that the blue channel is noisier when looking at output from my CMOS-based Pentax K-7." CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:27:54.410" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16915" PostId="11205" Score="3" Text="I'd like to think we're a bit more useful and accurate than &quot;photography forum Web sites&quot;. I know that I can't stand web fora anymore, since it's nearly impossible to see whose opinions are more respected without loading pages and page of replies." CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:29:42.897" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16916" PostId="11208" Text="It seems like that because it is. And the sharpness loss depends on the lens construction -- the amount of diffraction in relation to the overall transmitted light depends on the physical size of the aperture, not its apparent optical size. Two different lenses of the same focal length set to f/16 or f/22 may have *very* different physical openings, depending on where the aperture-controlling mechanism is in the optical path. (f/64 on a 210mm lens is about the same as f/11 on a 35mm lens, BTW.) C-level summary: try things, and don't get hung up on &quot;web experts&quot;, even here." CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:34:44.983" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16917" PostId="11209" Text="And can I spell &quot;matter&quot; correctly when typing a bunch of rapid-fire questions? To that question at least, the answer is clear. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:35:34.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16918" PostId="11200" Score="1" Text="Spot metering happening anywhere but at the center of the frame is a brand-new thing, and not even all current-generation cameras will spot-meter anywhere but the center of the frame. The author may have been using center-weighted metering, but the procedure for spot metering would be the same with most cameras." CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:41:53.810" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16919" PostId="11205" Text="@ElendilTheTall - It has to do with pixel size, not sensor size. So a 25 MP full-frame has the same diffraction limit as an 11 MP APS-C (1.5X Crop) sensor. It's effect is very real." CreationDate="2011-04-23T20:54:26.077" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16920" PostId="11200" Text="@Stan: Really? My Nikon D5000 (released 2009) has it." CreationDate="2011-04-23T21:04:27.917" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="16921" PostId="11208" Text="@Stan Rogers — sure, because 210mm ÷ 64 ≅ 35mm ÷ 11; a separate point from what you're saying about optical paths." CreationDate="2011-04-23T21:04:52.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16922" PostId="11158" Text="@Fake Name: Make your comment into an answer and I'll vote it up..." CreationDate="2011-04-23T21:22:21.253" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="16923" PostId="11208" Score="2" Text="@mattdm: My point was that the &quot;ooh, scary&quot; f/64 of the Group f/64  isn't really all that scary -- the amount of diffraction relative to the total exposure you'd expect from the lenses they were using at the aperture they were using would be about the same as you'd get with a 35mm lens at f/11(ish), so it's a red herring in this discussion." CreationDate="2011-04-23T21:33:09.620" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16924" PostId="11200" Text="Really. It's only 2011 now; 2009 isn't exactly ancient history, and the D5000 isn't a thoroughly crippled camera." CreationDate="2011-04-23T21:39:04.983" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16925" PostId="11208" Text="@Stan Rogers -- gotcha." CreationDate="2011-04-23T22:20:18.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16926" PostId="11208" Text="As Stan mentions, you should highlight the last sentence, which really should also be mentioned in the &quot;does sensor size matter&quot; section as it directly affects the diffraction limit and why P&amp;S cameras can't stop down very much." CreationDate="2011-04-23T22:32:46.797" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="16927" PostId="11202" Text="I'm not saying its not useful, just not for figuring out what events there are." CreationDate="2011-04-23T22:33:32.023" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16928" PostId="11198" Text="Right, I understand.  I was just pointing out that in your summary here, you mentioned 5-10 minutes - but not the tracking really required for it." CreationDate="2011-04-23T22:35:21.553" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="16929" PostId="11208" Text="There's a *lot* of controversy over whether diffraction is relative purely to the physical size of the opening, or the f/number. While I certainly agree with @Stan Rogers that it *seems* like it should depend on the overall opening size, most formulas only seem to take the f/stop into account (e.g., Rayleigh says `1.22 lambda/f-number`)." CreationDate="2011-04-24T00:05:45.713" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16930" PostId="11208" Text="I should add that there are ways of &quot;phrasing&quot; (so to speak) the criteria so they *seem* to depend only on the diameter of the opening -- but when you look carefully, these are producing a result in terms of angular resolution of the subject, so they're basically ignoring the magnification of the image from the longer focal length, which (of course) affects perceived sharpness." CreationDate="2011-04-24T00:21:15.633" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16931" PostId="11179" Score="1" Text="fair enough. updated answer to recommend AGAINST the use of a model aeroplane for aerial photos..." CreationDate="2011-04-24T00:57:01.233" UserId="3263" />
  <row Id="16933" PostId="11208" Score="1" Text="The probability (and angle) of diffraction depends on the probability of interaction of light with an edge -- in this case, the aperture blades. The amount of light significantly affected by diffraction is (roughly) proportional to the wavelength and the *circumference/perimeter* of the aperture (the length of the edge); the overall exposure is proportional to the *area* of the aperture. At physically larger apertures, the contribution to the overall exposure (and therefore the softening influence) of diffracted light is proportionally less than at physically smaller apertures." CreationDate="2011-04-24T01:51:11.720" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16934" PostId="11208" Text="That should have read &quot;the product of the wavelength and the *circumference/perimeter* of the aperture&quot; -- not enough character space remains to correct effectively in the original." CreationDate="2011-04-24T01:54:00.113" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="16935" PostId="11212" Score="2" Text="Really, only you can answer this question. There's no right answer for everyone. (If there were, Nikon would only sell one model.)" CreationDate="2011-04-24T02:36:01.747" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16936" PostId="11213" Text="Ooops, sorry... I meant auto-focus motor." CreationDate="2011-04-24T02:40:52.717" UserId="4856" />
  <row Id="16937" PostId="11193" Text="@mattdm (3rd comment) - which would be why I made it as a subtext." CreationDate="2011-04-24T02:43:00.127" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16938" PostId="11193" Text="@mattdm (1st and 2nd comment) - Arranging something (be it molecules, etc) is making something from *something else.* Creation of matter does not have to be involved, merely the manipulation of it. A photographer who sets up a scene to photograph certainly makes the scene, however, the actual photographic process (i.e. pressing the shutter button, which *captures* the photo) is not in and of itself a process of making, but capturing what is. I don't want to undermine the creativity required, but my point is that making a photograph is incorrect, making a photograph's *composition* is not. " CreationDate="2011-04-24T02:45:46.957" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16939" PostId="11158" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - It does not answer the question, or I would. It merely points out that this answerer does not seem to know what he is talking about." CreationDate="2011-04-24T02:47:24.753" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16940" PostId="11212" Text="I also own a D40, and am I looking to upgrade as well. I'm leaning toward the D90 at the moment. I'm interested in the feedback this question gets." CreationDate="2011-04-24T02:55:12.800" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="16941" PostId="11193" Text="Oh! I think that's exactly it, in fact. The key difference between the &quot;tourist&quot; _taking_ a snapshot and a photographer _making_ a photograph is that in the former case, snapping the shutter is the entirety of the photographic process, whereas for the latter, it is a key instant but only _part_ of the creation of finished photograph. (There are steps before and after.)" CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:08:39.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16942" PostId="11215" Text="Now you have 10 rep. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:17:13.503" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16943" PostId="11216" Score="1" Text="Did it stop working immediately after the fall? I'd say &quot;check with Nikon tech support&quot;, but they'll undoubtedly say to send it in to be checked." CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:34:05.650" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16944" PostId="11215" Text="Thank you!!!!!!" CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:39:37.987" UserId="4857" />
  <row Id="16945" PostId="11215" Text="Does it appear in the same spot in the frame every time it does show up?" CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:44:57.283" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16946" PostId="11215" Text="Roughly, if it ever does move it's only by a few pixels tops." CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:48:20.773" UserId="4857" />
  <row Id="16947" PostId="11029" Text="@mattdm: Downscale means converting lights having longer wavelength to make them sensible for sensors designed to sense shorter wavelength. The opposite is for Upscaling. May be someone who had better grade (not me!) in high-school physics can explain these terms better!" CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:57:26.650" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="16948" PostId="11218" Score="1" Text="FWIW, dust (or _something_) got into my Fujifilm F31fd. That's such a nice little camera that I don't regret sending it in and having it cleaned, even though they charged me a basically-outrageous $100." CreationDate="2011-04-24T03:58:51.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16949" PostId="11218" Score="1" Text="That's what I feared, oh well. Seeing as I do more painting than photography at the moment, I'll send it in for repairs if it's still under the 2yr plan.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks for the help guys!!! I really appreciate it.&#xA;&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-04-24T04:15:00.780" UserId="4857" />
  <row Id="16950" PostId="11217" Text="Good info. I guess I'll get a D5100." CreationDate="2011-04-24T04:35:13.977" UserId="4856" />
  <row Id="16951" PostId="11215" Text="Pretty similar to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6399/is-it-sensor-damage-or-dust and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3504/spots-in-my-pictures, but slightly different since this is a non-interchangeable lens camera." CreationDate="2011-04-24T04:56:03.537" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16952" PostId="11217" Text="The D5100 seems to have the same sensor as the D7000, which means there are now [3 cameras with the same sensor](http://dxomark.com/index.php/en/Camera-Sensor/Compare/Compare-sensors/(appareil1)/698%7C0/(appareil2)/680%7C0/(appareil3)/676%7C0/(onglet)/0/(brand)/Nikon/(brand2)/Nikon/(brand3)/Pentax)" CreationDate="2011-04-24T05:00:27.933" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16953" PostId="11217" Score="1" Text="Actually, make that 4 - the Sony Alpha 580 has the same sensor, too." CreationDate="2011-04-24T05:07:12.920" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16954" PostId="11215" Text="Very similar!!!" CreationDate="2011-04-24T05:38:15.327" UserId="4857" />
  <row Id="16955" PostId="11193" Text="But they're **both** *taking* a snapshot, one is of a controlled, carefully composed scene, and the other is just point-and-shoot. My point is they're still both *taking* a picture. The difference is what of." CreationDate="2011-04-24T06:27:25.697" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="16956" PostId="11198" Score="1" Text="Is it worth trying without some kind of tracking?" CreationDate="2011-04-24T08:45:33.560" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="16957" PostId="11219" Score="5" Text="&quot;If the risk of death isn't enough to scare you, add in the risk of frying or otherwise breaking the rest of your precious camera&quot; How to tell when a hobby is starting to get a bit *too* serious." CreationDate="2011-04-24T11:30:32.320" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="16958" PostId="11198" Text="@fmark - Sure. You'll get some star trails as a result, but a meteor will move much, much, faster and so you won't be confusing them." CreationDate="2011-04-24T13:11:16.257" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16959" PostId="5940" Text="Cartier-Bresson is also quoted as saying, &quot;Of course it's all luck.&quot; He also said, &quot;I prowled the streets all day, feeling very strung up and ready to pounce, determined to 'trap' life - to preserve life in the act of living.&quot; " CreationDate="2011-04-24T14:03:51.987" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16960" PostId="11223" Text="Good stuff. Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-04-24T14:53:41.007" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="16961" PostId="11210" Score="3" Text="I don't think this is correct. Photons with higher energy than the band gap (i.e. blue light) are absorbed readily by silicon; they don't pass through. The problem is, that on a frontside-illuminated detector, the blue photons are absorbed too readily, within the gate structure, before reaching the photosites." CreationDate="2011-04-24T15:13:38.240" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16962" PostId="11210" Text="@coneslayer: Good call... It's been a while since I've taken courses in semiconductors, guess I've forgotten a few subtle details..." CreationDate="2011-04-24T15:16:33.563" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="16963" PostId="11209" Text="I explained last time why the sensors are less sensitive to blue: Much of the blue light is absorbed in the gate structure before reaching the photosite, and switching to backside-illuminated sensors would largely solve the problem." CreationDate="2011-04-24T15:26:14.600" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16965" PostId="11209" Text="@coneslayer -- thanks. I had somehow missed the link in the bottom section of your last answer. If you have further references for that, that'd be awesome — most non-scientific literature I've seen on backside-illuminated sensors doesn't mention color sensitivity differences. " CreationDate="2011-04-24T15:38:50.033" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16966" PostId="11209" Text="@mattdm: This page may be of interest; it has a table of average absorption depth in silicon, as a function of wavelength. You can see that it's dramatically shorter for blue light than red, so you really want the photodiodes to be close to the entrance surface for blue light. http://learn.hamamatsu.com/articles/quantumefficiency.html" CreationDate="2011-04-24T16:23:15.400" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16969" PostId="11232" Text="do you have an example photograph of what you see vs. what you were expecting?" CreationDate="2011-04-24T19:41:01.123" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="16970" PostId="11232" Score="3" Text="This is similar to question ... http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10735/why-do-bright-red-flowers-end-up-without-details/10751#10751 " CreationDate="2011-04-24T20:09:08.533" UserId="1410" />
  <row Id="16971" PostId="11228" Score="3" Text="You might want to back that statement up with some evidence." CreationDate="2011-04-24T20:18:43.663" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="16972" PostId="11232" Score="2" Text="@intoTHEwild — a sample would help. Is this the same as the oversaturated-reds question Barry points to?" CreationDate="2011-04-24T20:45:08.203" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16975" PostId="11237" Score="1" Text="Learned something fascinating today." CreationDate="2011-04-24T21:50:35.550" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="16976" PostId="11233" Text="+1 The shift and pulsing sure sound like an IS problem." CreationDate="2011-04-24T22:17:10.130" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="16977" PostId="11179" Text="Well, I did try out a small kite I had bought a couple of months ago (two line kite!). After 5 minutes of flying... I abandoned the idea of even trying to attach my old compact camera... I now need to look into two things! A new **one line kite** and a way to make a **custom intervalometer** for my compact camera!!!&#xA;@mdresser: After your test I don't think I am willing to risk any other (more expensive) equipment!!  Sorry about the result of your test..." CreationDate="2011-04-24T22:47:22.680" UserId="2895" />
  <row Id="16978" PostId="11177" Text="@D. Lambert, @Leonidas The idea of CHDK that your answers mention sounds really good! But... Even though I have 3 or 4 old compact cameras resting in my drawers, none of them is a Canon! I wish Olympus would have done something similar!" CreationDate="2011-04-24T22:53:08.477" UserId="2895" />
  <row Id="16979" PostId="11247" Score="4" Text="Ygam, did you see the recent discussion about Ken Rockwell's web site? See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10980/are-websites-like-kenrockwell-com-and-bythom-com-reliable. In short, while Ken Rockwell has some interesting and helpful articles, he also compares himself to spoof site _The Onion_. My suggestion is to edit the question to remove those references (so the answer can be more helpfully focused on the lenses themselves)." CreationDate="2011-04-25T00:26:22.157" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16980" PostId="11249" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind too that, even though the 80-200 may be a &quot;better&quot; lens, it may not be a better lens *for you*. You may want to trade off the better aperture, build quality, image quality for smaller, lighter, cheaper, and wider zoom." CreationDate="2011-04-25T00:50:35.130" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="16981" PostId="11249" Score="3" Text="@Craig Walker - This is true, I know people who have done that, myself included. However, if you do get hooked on this photography thing, you'll regret that decision... :)" CreationDate="2011-04-25T00:55:29.427" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16982" PostId="11250" Score="9" Text="Ah, you kids have no stamina these days! ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-25T00:57:24.933" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16983" PostId="11250" Score="4" Text="+1, although I might put an 80-200 f/2.8 in the _middle_ of the &quot;does only one thing&quot; continuum." CreationDate="2011-04-25T01:41:18.813" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16984" PostId="11250" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: Yup. At least it's not a &quot;Prime&quot; lens." CreationDate="2011-04-25T03:16:56.187" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="16985" PostId="11232" Text="i was shooting red rose once and another time it was a red pillow" CreationDate="2011-04-25T05:31:09.980" UserId="1209" />
  <row Id="16986" PostId="11234" Text="if the white balance is not set properly wont other colors be thrown off as well. although nice reason to shoot in raw." CreationDate="2011-04-25T05:32:10.977" UserId="1209" />
  <row Id="16987" PostId="11260" Score="4" Text="What have you used for post-processing so far?" CreationDate="2011-04-25T11:19:46.700" UserId="1774" />
  <row Id="16988" PostId="11233" Text="+1 try turning IS on and off, try changing the modes, try manual focus, etc... Then give Canon customer support a call, describe what you are experiencing and they will walk you through a fix and/or have you send it in for repair. Canon Customer Support Center&#xA;Hours: 	Monday-Friday 8:00 a.m. - 12:00 midnight. ET,&#xA;Saturday 10:00 a.m. - 8:00 p.m., excluding holidays&#xA;Phone: 	1-800-OK-CANON (toll free)&#xA;1-800-652-2666&#xA;TDD: 	1-866-251-3752 (toll free)&#xA;Email: 	carecenter@cits.canon.com&#xA;For additional support options: www.canontechsupport.com" CreationDate="2011-04-25T11:56:44.633" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="16989" PostId="11224" Text="I guess to do this test &quot;properly&quot;, one would put the chart at both near and far distances, and compare sharpness of both with near or far focus distances at different apertures. " CreationDate="2011-04-25T12:13:08.760" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16990" PostId="11208" Text="So, Jerry, is this a &quot;yes&quot; or a &quot;no&quot;? :)" CreationDate="2011-04-25T13:21:56.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16991" PostId="11253" Text="I'm a little confused since you say size has no impact but recommend not to buy a larger one. Right now, I am working without the tent structure and get more shadows than I need ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-25T13:52:34.763" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="16992" PostId="11219" Text="Hi so the warranty wil fix my slr . will it be fixed? :(" CreationDate="2011-04-25T13:52:46.037" UserId="4858" />
  <row Id="16993" PostId="11253" Text="@Itai - Smaller is easier, it's about the only reason for going that route but if you don't need larger, it's a pretty good reason." CreationDate="2011-04-25T14:14:53.953" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="16994" PostId="11265" Score="1" Text="I think this might be better on http://webmasters.stackexchange.com/, although since a lot of us present photos on the web, it's of interest here as well." CreationDate="2011-04-25T14:51:17.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16995" PostId="11262" Text="If you like this effect and similar, I highly recommend getting some of the Lensbaby lenses. It's a small company with a niche product, so prices are a bit high, but they're well done and the people there are a pleasure to work with — as are the products." CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:02:33.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16996" PostId="11208" Text="@mattdm: it's not really either one -- it's an attempt at taking a dramatically oversimplified statement, and giving some idea of the real issues involved." CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:03:38.527" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="16997" PostId="8690" Text="DeepSkyStacker is free software that's specifically designed to align and combine night sky images. It can also do some &quot;real&quot; calibration (darks/flats) in raw pixel space. I think it's likely to work better than general-purpose software like hugin. http://deepskystacker.free.fr/english/index.html" CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:07:40.800" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="16998" PostId="11208" Text="Which I appreciate, by the way. But I'm still a little uncertain on the core question." CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:11:30.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="16999" PostId="11208" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: I'd say the answer to the question is that while there are a few factors that favor his position, he's *mostly* wrong." CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:17:35.157" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17000" PostId="11262" Text="As I said in the bottom of my question, I'm looking for a DIY solution. I've considered Lensbaby, but they are a little pricey for me. (I live in Argentina and the S&amp;H is about 50% the price of the product)" CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:27:41.117" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17001" PostId="8690" Text="@coneslayer - since posting this, I've begun to use DeepSkyStacker." CreationDate="2011-04-25T15:38:16.350" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17002" PostId="11262" Text="Ouch, that _is_ painfully expensive. I guess that's incentive to buy a lot of stuff at once. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-25T16:07:31.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17004" PostId="11208" Score="3" Text="@mattdm: I've done a bit of editing to add a bit more of a conclusion, along with some sample pictures as support." CreationDate="2011-04-25T18:00:22.393" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17005" PostId="11255" Text="Stellarium is awesome. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-25T19:35:10.073" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="17006" PostId="11232" Text="You don't mention what camera you're using, and presumably you're shooing jpegs.  I found with my previous Pentax body, reds would get blown out pretty badly - to the point I had to shoot RAW.  With the newer Pentax, however, they appear to have fixed that." CreationDate="2011-04-25T19:43:41.973" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="17007" PostId="11261" Score="1" Text="Could you expand on Dark current and read noise?" CreationDate="2011-04-25T21:12:12.990" UserId="4776" />
  <row Id="17008" PostId="11261" Text="Which noise reduction algorithms are you talking about?  I know that Non-Local Means (Buades, 2004), Total Variation (ROF, 98), and anisotropic diffusion (perona and malik) don't.  Or are there some commercial packages that don't have published algorithm's that you're talking about?" CreationDate="2011-04-25T21:40:54.583" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="17009" PostId="7130" Text="&quot;How many photos should I keep&quot; — percentage summary: 99%, &lt;1%, ≈100%, 13%, 100%, 95-99%" CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:10:17.497" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17010" PostId="11261" Text="@mmr Back when I used the commercial software Neat Image, it looked for a detail-free patch to use for noise estimation, and you could &quot;aid&quot; it by selecting such a patch manually." CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:14:23.243" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17011" PostId="11219" Score="1" Text="If you have a 3rd party accident warranty, then yes. However, it's unlikely that the manufacturer warranty will cover damage from an accident. I'd recommend calling Nikon support." CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:20:09.170" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17012" PostId="11263" Text="Lightroom, while perhaps not up to the level of Silver EFX, has tons of features helpful for B&amp;W over a regular image editor such as greyscale mix, fill light, blacks, split-toning, curves, local adjustments, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:25:45.797" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="17013" PostId="11273" Score="5" Text="This sounds like it might be better split into several questions." CreationDate="2011-04-25T22:40:46.010" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="17016" PostId="11263" Text="That is true of most image editors though, which is why I included the note that LR may not give you much more &quot;if you already have an image editor&quot;.  In SilverEFX, all of the adjustments are targeted at a B&amp;W specific result, and as such the SilverEFX gives a better range of control... also local adjustments in any of the Nik tools are quite a bit more advanced than just the local adjustments Lightroom supports." CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:03:58.497" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17017" PostId="11260" Text="I really like that followup question as it's important to understand how you are used to editing, to help decide what might be a good step for you now." CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:04:39.637" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17018" PostId="11274" Text="Coincidentally, this week's winner photo demonstrates that point..." CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:06:31.957" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17019" PostId="11282" Text="For some reason that middle paragraph there is all blurry on my screen not to sure what it says ;) Thanks for the tips though. I'll have to try that out. How about the use of a flash. Should I avoid it or does it really matter?" CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:06:54.947" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17020" PostId="11260" Text="Hi Mart Oruaas, i already have a copy of PS Elements 9 ..but the options for B&amp;W controls seems quite limited .. ie i just cant achieve the &quot;depth&quot; of a picture that i wana achieve ..." CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:26:26.613" UserId="3788" />
  <row Id="17021" PostId="11263" Text="Hi Kendall Helmsteeter, thanks for your comment, appreciate the &quot;special discount&quot; advice..." CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:29:06.567" UserId="3788" />
  <row Id="17022" PostId="11282" Text="Haha :) Turn the flash off. It will make it easier to get the exposure consistent at all ISOs." CreationDate="2011-04-26T02:45:11.970" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17024" PostId="11275" Score="5" Text="Hi pacoespinoza! Please don't use URL shorteners on Stack Exchange. They obfuscate the web at best, and at worst can be malicious. In between, they also have privacy issues — and there's reason to be concerned about `.ly` in particular given the political situation in that country. " CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:06:46.097" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17025" PostId="11275" Score="6" Text="Also, while links can be helpful, better answers at least summarize the content, and great answers show original expertise. " CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:08:04.520" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17026" PostId="11273" Score="2" Text="The brand-vs-brand debate should be removed entirely. That's never going to be productive — or in the Stack Exchange lingo, it ends up being _subjective and argumentative_. Instead, take a look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/175/what-are-considerations-when-choosing-a-dslr-brand" CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:14:03.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17027" PostId="2876" Text="And also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/175/what-are-considerations-when-choosing-a-dslr-brand" CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:16:36.527" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17028" PostId="11283" Text="This did the trick. I did a Repair Database and that fixed it. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:26:04.107" UserId="4883" />
  <row Id="17029" PostId="11263" Text="@Kendall, I was just stating that in my experience, the other editors I used did not have those features, though your experience is obviously contrary. As for SilverEFX, from what I have seen, you can do most of it in lightroom (control points, color filters, etc = local adjustments), but it's just much harder.  Do you have any specific examples/videos of what Silver EFX can do that is impossible in LR?" CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:31:37.363" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="17030" PostId="11284" Score="4" Text="This is off-topic here. Sorry. (See http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/28/can-i-ask-videography-related-questions for discussion.)" CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:34:30.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17031" PostId="11263" Text="Nothing is impossible to do in Lightroom.  SilverFX just makes it WAY easier.  Except possibly very small targeted adjustments to specific regions of images since the LR control points do not behave like the SilverEFX control points and I don' think can target tones in a small region in the same way SilverEFX (or any of the Nik tools) can...  Watch some of the tutorial videos for SilverEFX and see for yourself." CreationDate="2011-04-26T03:43:20.650" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17032" PostId="11286" Text="If I'm doing my math right, the 24fps video's frames alternate between being exactly aligned with a corresponding 60fps video frame and being exactly halfway out of phase. So every other frame of the resulting 24fps video is going to be off by 1/120th of a second (in terms of when it was captured vs. when it will be displayed.)" CreationDate="2011-04-26T05:42:02.843" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="17033" PostId="11273" Score="1" Text="I don't think you know what full-frame means. The 550D is not a full-frame camera." CreationDate="2011-04-26T06:17:20.300" UserId="1742" />
  <row Id="17034" PostId="11208" Text="@Jerry: Impressive demonstration, showing the effects of diffraction so clearly. I had no idea of this effect until I stumbled over this question rather accidentally. (Though, as a hobby astronomer, I know this effect for very long, I never made a connection to photography.)" CreationDate="2011-04-26T07:12:15.900" UserId="4859" />
  <row Id="17035" PostId="11187" Text="even Disk Utility doesn't see it? That seems odd. It may not recognize the file systems, but it should at least see the hardware." CreationDate="2011-04-26T07:12:53.460" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17036" PostId="11190" Text="Oh, I definitely wasn't going to _limit_ myself to celestial events, but I'd also like to not limit myself to everynight things." CreationDate="2011-04-26T07:52:51.980" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17037" PostId="11273" Text="anything is &quot;full frame&quot; for a given definition of &quot;full frame&quot;..." CreationDate="2011-04-26T08:05:57.927" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17039" PostId="11292" Text="Here's a nice review of a high-end piece of kit: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/alpa_stc_review.shtml, showing some of what you get when you shell out for the high-end gear. The funny thing is you can buy an iPhone holder for it." CreationDate="2011-04-26T10:45:54.653" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17040" PostId="11292" Score="2" Text="For professional photographers, shallow DOF isn't an advantage, it's something they fight against. In the real world, clients want images that are sharp, where their products are visible. If anything, the larger sensor is a problem in these situations and a lot of photographers were more than happy to move to DSLRs because they could reduce their lighting gear by half!" CreationDate="2011-04-26T11:09:05.913" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17041" PostId="11292" Score="1" Text="That's true, but it doesn't stop Hasselblad citing depth of field control as a selling point: http://www.dpreview.com/news/1002/10020210hasselbladh4d40.asp" CreationDate="2011-04-26T11:23:06.667" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17042" PostId="11291" Score="1" Text="You seem to be focusing on studio photography. Large- and medium-format cameras are also &quot;popular&quot; (for small values of popular) in landscape photography, where artificial lighting isn't very practical or useful." CreationDate="2011-04-26T11:27:32.313" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17043" PostId="11295" Score="3" Text="First point is absolutely right, something I should have stated, price is a relative thing. A MF camera may cost $20,000 but a plumber could have $20,000 of tools in the back of his van. Professional gear is expensive, usually for good reasons." CreationDate="2011-04-26T12:07:32.620" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17044" PostId="9104" Text="Wow... interesting idea, but those sure are headache-inducing.  Not sure I can actually enjoy this effect myself." CreationDate="2011-04-26T12:43:48.327" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="17045" PostId="11293" Text="I was thinking of using our oil heater to give some warmth to the camera itself, but I was concerned that the heat would distort the air more. A rain cover may work well, especially if I can find a pile of silica gels to absorb the moisture." CreationDate="2011-04-26T13:05:35.450" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="17046" PostId="11284" Score="3" Text="And specifically, if you'd like to see a Stack Exchange &quot;home&quot; for video production, take a look at http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production" CreationDate="2011-04-26T13:45:29.523" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17047" PostId="11261" Text="@mmr Yes I was talking about noise reduction software rather than published algorithms, edited to avoid confusion" CreationDate="2011-04-26T14:09:37.710" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17048" PostId="11299" Score="1" Text="+1 — simple and helpful. I would love to see this chart with the third-stop ISO increments included. I know I could do it myself too, but you do it so well.... :)" CreationDate="2011-04-26T15:35:05.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17049" PostId="11291" Text="Poor choice of words I think. One does not *invest* in digital cameras, lenses maybe. You buy one because you need the resolution, level of details and dynamic range in a single exposure. Otherwise you should probably *invest* in a good tripod and learn panorama stitching, HDR and exposure fusion." CreationDate="2011-04-26T15:47:56.433" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17050" PostId="11292" Text="@Jędrek: That's almost completely based on the type of pro work being done. Sure for products the client usually wants to get everything in sharp focus, but plenty of my commercial contracts have been won over the years because I like to use lots of DOF in my work..." CreationDate="2011-04-26T16:02:53.747" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17051" PostId="11299" Score="1" Text="Woah. Thank you very much. I like that this is a quantitative evaluation." CreationDate="2011-04-26T16:14:03.173" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17052" PostId="11262" Score="1" Text="In response to your addendum: I was thinking about this. You could deliberately mis-apply the CA correction in your software (e.g. Lightroom), which would do a credible job in the plane of focus. But I don't think it would look like real CA in the out-of-focus regions. Can't hurt to try it and see if you like it." CreationDate="2011-04-26T16:17:52.683" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17053" PostId="11301" Score="1" Text="n.b. you don't gain any magnification when using a crop body, the 1:1 magnification of a macro lens means you can photograph objects that are the same size as the sensor, cropping the sensor may make things seem bigger but you also reduce the size of objects you can photograph, getting you back to 1:1" CreationDate="2011-04-26T17:17:32.220" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17054" PostId="11262" Text="Uhmmm, interesting. Definitely I'm going to try it, although I've never understood how those sliders work... " CreationDate="2011-04-26T17:53:28.600" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17055" PostId="11307" Text="A wider lens... and flip it around. I've used extension tubes on a 24mm lens (for kicks) and managed to hit the front element really quick." CreationDate="2011-04-26T18:00:34.647" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17056" PostId="11292" Score="1" Text="Yeah, Jay, but your photography business seems to be B2C - weddings, baby pics, family portraits, senior portraits. The real money is in architecture, commercial, fashion and product photography. There, pretty much everything needs to be sharp (with exceptions, obvs)." CreationDate="2011-04-26T18:03:07.420" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17057" PostId="11301" Text="@Matt - Indeed. Unfortunately some manufacturers which may remain unnamed ;) use the FLM to adjust the magnification factor this way." CreationDate="2011-04-26T18:21:08.297" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17058" PostId="11273" Text="@Om - Full-frame normally means the imaging sensor is the same size as 35mm film. This makes your camera bigger, means it needs bigger lenses and a bigger budget ;) It has an advantage when it comes to image noise." CreationDate="2011-04-26T18:27:59.427" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17059" PostId="11299" Text="@Vian, @matddm, thanks. Matt, can I recommend to you some good interpolation routines (o: Would you believe it that I did not know until now that my camera could do one-third ISO increments!" CreationDate="2011-04-26T18:37:11.307" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17060" PostId="11268" Text="Thanks, that's what I was thinking too.  Picked up a nice new shiny 60D today to replace it." CreationDate="2011-04-26T19:07:29.597" UserId="1271" />
  <row Id="17061" PostId="11307" Text="Your comment about changing focal length would be accurate WRT the Minolta 3x-1x Macro zoom, which seems to have inspired the Canon MP-E. The MP-E is considerably more conventional though, simply extending (a *long* ways) and maintaining the same focal length to get higher magnification." CreationDate="2011-04-26T19:39:44.797" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17062" PostId="11273" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/used-equipment for some questions which cover concerns about buying used." CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:01:26.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17063" PostId="3302" Score="1" Text="FTR, Pentax has kept this up with the K-5 model, which replaces the K-7. http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/11/dethrone.html" CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:05:53.447" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17064" PostId="11292" Text="For certain types of photography the rise/fall/tilt/shift lens system  of large format cameras can be invaluable." CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:13:01.380" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17065" PostId="11314" Text="Ok. So when buying a digital camera, is the megapixels the only thing I should worry?" CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:40:01.030" UserId="4894" />
  <row Id="17066" PostId="11249" Text="Main reason for staying away from the 80-200mm 2.8 is the size. It's not practical for anyone except super enthusiast or professionals. The size alone makes it unjustifiable for any beginner. " CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:42:54.417" UserId="16" />
  <row Id="17067" PostId="11314" Score="1" Text="Not really - anything over 6 megapixels is appropriate.  Your main concerns are going to be enough zoom range to cover the family when they're spread out, decent low light capability, image stabilization, and UI.  The Canon P&amp;S's are some of the better out there and I tend to recommend them - the UI is nice and you get good pics on average for the price." CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:46:08.440" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17068" PostId="11314" Text="Ok thank you for your answer." CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:46:48.467" UserId="4894" />
  <row Id="17069" PostId="3305" Score="1" Text="On the claim that it's quieter than a Leica, with no mirror and a cloth shutter: _&quot;How did I measure this? I used my ears! Fire a Leica M7 and then snap a D5000 in Quiet Mode, and they are about the same.&quot;_  Also, he then says _&quot;I'm actually much better in audio than I am at photography&quot;_, a point which I will not contest." CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:52:47.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17070" PostId="3305" Text="The D7000 does have a &quot;Quiet Mode&quot;, but it's just slower than the regular single-shot mode. I don't think it's that much quieter." CreationDate="2011-04-26T20:58:36.727" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17071" PostId="11314" Text="In fact, too much over six megapixels and the per-pixel &quot;clarity&quot; will suffer, especially with budget cameras. (However, for same-size prints of up to 8x10 or so, it won't matter either way.)" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:03:16.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17072" PostId="11313" Text="Hi Tobias. Welcome to the site. Can you, uh, clarify what you mean by clarity?" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:04:19.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17073" PostId="11314" Text="@mattdm - very true - its just difficult to find new camera's with other good feature and lower than 10 megapixels these days" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:05:33.843" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17074" PostId="11313" Text="@mattdm: Thanks. I am just interested in being able to see my loved ones 'clearly'. I am sorry I can't describe further... A clear photograph." CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:15:24.370" UserId="4894" />
  <row Id="17075" PostId="11273" Text="Shooting landscape, wildlife, architecture, night photography, and studio shots - means you'll have to own pretty much every lens lol.  Plan on a large pack ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:17:12.527" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17076" PostId="11313" Score="1" Text="It turns out that this goes into the complex stuff you said you're not interested in. Sharpness, contrast, color processing, and good exposure are all factors there, and each of those has its own considerations. (For example, sharpness is related to optics, focus, shutter speed, camera motion, and more.) In general, shopping recommendations are _off topic_ on all Stack Exchange sites — see http://photo.stackexchange.com/tags/equipment-recommendation/info for some info on why. Would you mind rephrasing your question in terms of how to _look for_ a camera with this attribute of clarity?" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:21:19.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17078" PostId="3160" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:57:23.927" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17079" PostId="5883" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3160/is-an-slr-camera-a-must-when-learning" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:57:33.850" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17080" PostId="11304" Score="3" Text="The 180mm f/3.5L will **not** get you higher magnifications. It just lets you be further away from the subject for 1:1. The only choice for greater then 1:1 is extension tubes, or the Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5X." CreationDate="2011-04-26T22:07:01.320" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="17081" PostId="6052" Text="@mattdm: Your edits to make this more generic seem to have left it too generic, and the answers no longer make sense. I would restore the specific Canon models indicated in the original post, as they were important factors of the question." CreationDate="2011-04-26T22:24:00.653" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17082" PostId="6052" Text="@jrista: hmmm, fair enough. I was going through a bunch of shopping recommendation questions and attempting to make them less localized. This one maybe was best left alone. I'll revert." CreationDate="2011-04-26T22:27:57.100" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17083" PostId="11311" Text="The arguments about medium format giving shallower depth if field are purely theoretical due to the dearth of really fast lenses for the commonly used mounts. Fast optics exist but are extremely rare. Someone did the sums in a dpreview forum thread and none of the current Hasselblad lineup even come close to the DOF you can get with a 35mm SLR and readily available lenses." CreationDate="2011-04-26T23:25:00.593" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17084" PostId="6666" Text="Love this site. Once the pictures and data convinced me not to buy the Canon A620 instead of the A610 - sensitivity was lower, picture quality was not better." CreationDate="2011-04-27T00:17:23.247" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17085" PostId="6634" Text="Noise, real sensitivity (time/aperture/ISO for fixed light), resolution, aberrations are factual comparable for compact cameras (as some of these parameters are for lenses for SLR)." CreationDate="2011-04-27T00:20:26.083" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17086" PostId="11314" Score="1" Text="Just a note, if you'll be taking photos of toddlers or young kids, an SLR makes a world of difference. I speak from experience here - they just don't stay still! Also if you'll be taking photos indoors, a good external flash really helps. You simply tilt it up and bounce it off the ceiling (helps if you have white ceilings)." CreationDate="2011-04-27T00:37:32.603" UserId="4793" />
  <row Id="17087" PostId="11311" Text="Why use the same 0.03 mm CoC for both formats? The 35mm format will require greater enlargement than the MF to produce the same sized print, and so should require a smaller CoC to maintain equivalent final sharpness." CreationDate="2011-04-27T01:09:17.797" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17088" PostId="11264" Text="Does anyone know how &quot;flint glass&quot; translates to spanish? Google doesn't give me a coherent response.&#xA;&#xA;Or, where is it used usually? Maybe it's used in some kind of device that I could cannibalize and extract that kind of glass." CreationDate="2011-04-27T01:26:41.300" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17089" PostId="11311" Score="2" Text="@coneslayer: because that doesn't match how they get used. Yes, if you just wanted to produce the same size of prints, you clearly wouldn't enlarge as much with MF. In reality, they're built to allow larger pictures, and similar CoC (if anything, most MF are a tad sharper per-pixel, because most have no AA filter)." CreationDate="2011-04-27T01:44:05.993" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17090" PostId="11304" Score="1" Text="In addition, you'll need MORE extenion tubes to increase by the same amount of magnification compared to the 100mm macro." CreationDate="2011-04-27T02:22:11.757" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="17091" PostId="11320" Score="1" Text="Hah, I didn't know you were a Pentax shooter. There's a surprisingly large number of us on this site." CreationDate="2011-04-27T02:56:14.503" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17092" PostId="11317" Text="Just to add one minor (or maybe not so minor detail): the reduction of focal length is not unique to the Canon -- in fact, it happens with pretty much any lens that does internal focusing. With a macro it's considerably more extreme though -- but an internal-focusing Micro-Nikkor (for example) does roughly the same (though with a different design, the *amount* of change in focal length is probably a bit different)." CreationDate="2011-04-27T03:46:20.820" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17093" PostId="11319" Score="2" Text="It seems like an obvious answer would be to test for noise using the procedure from @labnut's recent answer. that way you can at least get an idea of how much you're gaining. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11281/how-to-test-noise/11299#11299" CreationDate="2011-04-27T04:54:11.063" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17094" PostId="11322" Text="I think you want that to be 100, 200, 400 for &quot;full stop ISO&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-27T05:19:07.447" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17095" PostId="11328" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind that &quot;best&quot; is a highly subjective term. Even in your own mind, what you may consider &quot;best&quot; after reading the answers provided here, and what you may consider &quot;best&quot; after spending some time using various lenses and evaluating them yourself, are likely to be two very different things. Your concept of best will change as your knowledge and skill with photography changes. " CreationDate="2011-04-27T07:18:25.667" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17096" PostId="11328" Text="As an example to the above...&quot;best&quot; in regards to 35mm DSLR cameras likely falls under something akin to the Canon L-series of lenses (or much of Nikon glass). However, most 35mm lenses, despite their superb quality, are usually a bit lacking when compared to, say, digital MF or film Large Format lenses, which tend to be of considerable build and optical quality." CreationDate="2011-04-27T07:20:27.693" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17097" PostId="11320" Score="2" Text="Pentaxians are known to be the research-oriented type.  How else would they have ended up with a Pentax?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T07:27:46.340" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="17098" PostId="11329" Score="3" Text="add size and weight. Depending on your physical condition and/or where you're going to be using it, that 400mm f/2.8 may be too much of a good thing. It's a great lens, best optics money can buy, but it weighs a ton and the flight attendants aren't going to be happy with you bringing it on board because it takes up so much space in the overhead bins." CreationDate="2011-04-27T07:40:55.150" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17099" PostId="4621" Score="1" Text="both Canon and Nikon have policies in place to refuse servicing any device outside the country the warranty was issued in. That means that a Nikon US issued warranty is no good outside the US. A Canon Europe warranty is no good outside Europe. Grey market imports are usually from Japan or SEA, so won't likely be honoured in either the US or Europe." CreationDate="2011-04-27T07:43:54.163" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17100" PostId="11045" Score="1" Text="I recommend this website. Just find yourself a decent blog or forum and start following it on a day by day basis." CreationDate="2011-04-27T08:15:15.057" UserId="4899" />
  <row Id="17101" PostId="11291" Text="@coneslayer: You're right. I was kind of complaining (pure jealousy) about using those kind of expensive cameras with larger formats for studio photography, where you can use lightning arrangements/equipment. Of course, because I watched those kind of strobist reviews." CreationDate="2011-04-27T08:44:11.933" UserId="4650" />
  <row Id="17102" PostId="11291" Score="2" Text="@Itai: When you buy an object or pay for a service, you expect something from it. Doesn't matter hoy much you paid, that's an investment. In other words, it doesn't matter if it's a camera or a lens, in both of them you're investing for getting something that you're expecting from both products. [Investment](http://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/british/investment) meaning by Cambridge dictionary." CreationDate="2011-04-27T08:59:46.670" UserId="4650" />
  <row Id="17103" PostId="11329" Text="True! I prefer lighter lenses (50mm is your friend) when I know I will be walking a long way and shooting a lot of things! But It depends on peoples choice as well, I've seen fellow photographers dragging a suitcase full of gears for miles!" CreationDate="2011-04-27T09:28:57.060" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="17104" PostId="11302" Score="1" Text="The heat strap sounds like a pretty good option, I may try and fashion a small one myself.... + 1 for having the 'NOTE:..' at the bottom :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-27T09:37:46.203" UserId="3802" />
  <row Id="17105" PostId="6639" Text="It often does matter a great deal and anyway artistic quality deserves to be displayed with the highest technical quality. I take/print many large panorama photos. Here I find exceptional sharpness and flatness of field really does matter. I observe people as they view my prints. They first step back to take in the print as a whole and then, without exception, step closer to view the details close up. And then they react with pleasurable surprise to see the fine detail faithfully preserved." CreationDate="2011-04-27T10:15:57.653" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17106" PostId="6541" Text="@John: Just curious about which Camera make do you have which does support DNG format?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T10:36:09.693" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17107" PostId="11329" Text="Been there, done that. Currently packing for a 2 week trip, and trying to shave weight from my kit. But I don't fancy leaving behind the big weight items, my 70-200 f/2.8 for example, as I have no viable alternatives for them..." CreationDate="2011-04-27T10:40:51.180" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17108" PostId="6541" Text="@goldenmean - I shoot Pentax, they've had in-camera DNG support since the K10D." CreationDate="2011-04-27T10:51:02.203" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17109" PostId="11264" Score="1" Text="@Andres: I went to Wikipedia hoping they would have Spanish-language articles on &quot;Flint glass&quot; or &quot;Achromatic doublet,&quot; but they do not. However, in both French and Italian, it looks like the English terms are used: &quot;verre crown&quot;/&quot;verre flint&quot;, &quot;vetro Crown&quot;/&quot;vetro Flint&quot;. Perhaps the same applies to Spanish. " CreationDate="2011-04-27T11:17:45.157" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17110" PostId="11338" Score="2" Text="Related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor" CreationDate="2011-04-27T11:30:21.430" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17111" PostId="11322" Text="Yes, @jrista, you are right, and thanks, not sure how &quot;300&quot; slipped in there...correcting &quot;100,200,300&quot; to &quot;100,200,400&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-27T11:32:21.740" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="17112" PostId="11338" Score="1" Text="And also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2536/is-crop-factor-a-bad-thing. There's a lot of questions which come close, but this is confusing enough to people that I think we can support multiple questions approaching the issue from a different angle." CreationDate="2011-04-27T11:58:01.327" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17113" PostId="11322" Text="I'm not sure you can just assume the K5's native ISO is above 80, Canon's expanded low ISO is 50, presumably to keep in in the whole stop sequence, but I'd bet that 80 is actually the native ISO of the k-5, otherwise it's an odd value to choose." CreationDate="2011-04-27T12:14:18.653" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17114" PostId="11328" Score="1" Text="From a practical point of view, this question and its answers may be helpful: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9355/how-much-do-lens-lineups-vary-across-platforms" CreationDate="2011-04-27T12:18:05.907" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17116" PostId="11342" Text="@Matt Grum: When I capture the raw image using my own Camera,I take image of a Colour chart.Then I use this raw image capture, demosaic it &amp; using a 3rd party tool, obtain a colour correction matrix, which I use in my code. But problem comes when I pick raw images available online. I do not have the correct calibrated colour correction matrix for those images/lighting conditions/sensors used to capture those images. Hence I am looking for the colour correction matrix. Do you think any other post process tool might have a chance? Do you have any further pointers as to how I can go about?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T12:33:21.407" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17117" PostId="11343" Score="5" Text="The exposure does not look bad to me, for making a nighttime shot look like nighttime. Can you clarify how you would like it to be? Do you want an increased exposure, so everything looks more like it would during the day?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T12:36:21.020" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17118" PostId="11343" Score="2" Text="You may find this question helpful http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4687/when-best-to-use-multi-zone-matrix-spot-or-center-weight. " CreationDate="2011-04-27T12:40:20.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17119" PostId="11343" Text="Yeah, that's what I mean. Make the pictures like the reality, at night and at day" CreationDate="2011-04-27T12:40:30.340" UserId="3086" />
  <row Id="17120" PostId="11345" Text="I agree with all of this. If you have a landscape under a full moon, you can crank up the exposure and get something very much like daylight, because the moon is basically a dim version of the sun. But when you have a bunch of streetlights, etc., in the scene, the results are not so likely to please. But by all means try it and see!" CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:16:44.340" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17121" PostId="11322" Score="3" Text="If the Pentax native ISO is 80, then why would one need to activate a custom function to enable it? If native, it should be, well, native and one of the available ISOs from the menu.  My supposition, and it is a supposition, is just this: the Pentax likely does not have 80 as its native ISO because it needs a special function enabled for it to be active.  I am not speaking to what ISO the camera actually exhibits when it is set for ISO 100, only what must be done in the camera settings to enable ISO 80. " CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:17:40.243" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="17122" PostId="867" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10395/why-should-i-use-the-zone-system-when-the-histogram-gives-me-all-the-information, which gives some more specific answers." CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:26:55.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17123" PostId="11343" Score="2" Text="I think you're done then, because the above image works. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:28:53.500" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17124" PostId="11342" Text="@Matt: The luminance dependency of the transform is interesting. Have you by any chance looked in the XMP files to see if there's anything usable in there? I don't have a LR installation right now to see." CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:50:16.217" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17125" PostId="11320" Score="1" Text="Pentax DSLRs are my tools of choice for travel photography since I consider them the most efficient cameras to use. I own 2 Pentax and also 6 cameras from 3 other brands, so I'm not exclusive ;) I match tools to assignment, plus I take advantage of other cameras which regularly pass through my hands." CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:53:36.077" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17126" PostId="11320" Text="Thanks for the tip about Dynamic Range Expansion, I had ignored that setting." CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:00:41.953" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17127" PostId="11350" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/439/70-200mm-teleconverter-or-a-longer-zoom-lens" CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:28:47.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17128" PostId="11337" Text="Hi goldenmean. The best way to correct broken URLs and other typo-mistakes other people's posts is just to edit them, or to make a comment on that post. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:39:33.387" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17129" PostId="11351" Text="@labnut Your ideas are intriguing to me, and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter. Do you have a blog or somewhere where you post these results en masse?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:46:30.000" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17130" PostId="11348" Score="2" Text="This may sound just a bit snarky, but if you need to use a plug-in to remove blur from an image, why on earth would you be concerned about &quot;compromising sharpness&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:55:33.787" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17131" PostId="11319" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4074" CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:07:18.153" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17132" PostId="11299" Text="The particular reason I suggest it is that there's been some suggestion that Canon cameras actually perform best at the one-third increments right below the normal stops, and worst at the one-third increments right _above_ the normal stops. I'm curious if that holds for Pentax. " CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:10:28.883" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17133" PostId="11348" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9446/how-should-one-sharpen-differently-depending-on-the-target-usage-for-a-photo — Pradeep, does that cover what you're asking here, or are you looking for tools to remove motion or camera-shake blur, or to compensate for focus errors?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:15:43.327" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17134" PostId="11346" Text="HDR photography would also be a good way to deal with that subject." CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:37:51.183" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17135" PostId="11351" Text="@coneslayer, thanks, but it was lost to a moment of utter carelessness." CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:39:05.067" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17136" PostId="11346" Text="That's what I was alluding to in &quot;compress the range into one image&quot;. I can expand on that...." CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:39:49.497" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17137" PostId="11342" Text="@Matt: How does then Photoshop/Lightroom get information about the right colour correction coefficients when it does the post processing? I mean does it read the EXIF/Metadata present in the RAW files to decide how it's going to perform the colour balancing or how do those tools do it?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:44:09.433" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17138" PostId="11275" Text="Thanks for the explanation, I'll try be more concisous" CreationDate="2011-04-27T15:52:24.600" UserId="4727" />
  <row Id="17139" PostId="11348" Text="@stans- my mistake for not being clear,i meant i was worried about compromising with the image quality without any increase in noise." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:01:33.987" UserId="4904" />
  <row Id="17140" PostId="11348" Text="@mattdm- yeah,plug-in to correct the camera blurred image due to slow shutter speed at low lightings." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:03:13.363" UserId="4904" />
  <row Id="17141" PostId="11349" Score="3" Text="+1 for the ASCII drawing" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:06:43.280" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="17142" PostId="11356" Text="i use topaz denoise 5.1.0 ,it has given me positive outcomes above my expectations.it has excellent data recovery and noise removal features.,my problem is with the blurs caused by the camera shakes due to slow shutter-speed ." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:07:21.300" UserId="4904" />
  <row Id="17143" PostId="11352" Text="is there anyway i can quench the needs for satisfying zoom with my lens ?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:09:17.430" UserId="4904" />
  <row Id="17144" PostId="11348" Text="@pradeep: Mistakes are fine, because the software here makes it easy to make things better. You can edit your own question to make it more clear, so you get higher-quality replies. You will probably also get better results if you punctuate and capitalize with some more care — nicely-done questions invite nicely-done answers." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:09:44.510" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17145" PostId="11355" Text="While it's true the LB does introduce a little bit of CA, the majority of it's effect is a shifted focal plane, which is what both of those tute focus on. While the OP's sample images show a bit of that, they specifically asked about CA, neither of those appear to even attempt to address it. (I didn't watch the first one fully, but the sample it produced doesn't have any.)" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:19:17.327" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17146" PostId="11342" Text="The XMP file contains a reference to a camera profile which containts the colour correction information, but it's not as simple as a matrix of coefficients due to the intensity dependant component. As far as I know it ignores anything in the raw files." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:20:50.330" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17147" PostId="11352" Text="@pradeep sekar: If you mean &quot;can I make my lens longer&quot;, the answer is no. Consider this,though: 300mm is a very long lens already, particularly on a crop-sensor camera (on a D3100, it's equivalent to having a 450mm lens on a 35mm camera). Unless you are shooting things that are actually dangerous to get close to (such as great cats in the wild or space vehicle launches) the right answer is almost always &quot;get closer&quot;, not &quot;get a longer lens&quot;. Your feet will always be the best zoom you own." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:23:19.407" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17148" PostId="11357" Text="Take a look at the &quot;lighting-basics&quot; tag — we have a great series of articles on various lighting setups, most of them portrait lighting of one kind or another: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/lighting-basics" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:26:58.350" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17149" PostId="11348" Score="2" Text="related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4724/how-postprocessing-can-help-in-improvingor-remove-slightly-blurred-photos" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:30:15.003" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17150" PostId="6772" Text="Related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4775/what-is-a-loop-lighting-pattern" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:30:22.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17151" PostId="11348" Text="also see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9617/can-anyone-recommend-freeware-to-reduce-motion-blur-by-deconvolution" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:30:41.447" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17152" PostId="11357" Score="3" Text="I'm afraid this is a bit too broad as it stands - there's soooo many ways to light a &quot;subject&quot;.  Others may provide some answers, but search the &quot;lighting-basics&quot; tag for a lot of very relevant information." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:30:46.687" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17153" PostId="11357" Text="Dang, beat me to it..." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:31:09.370" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17154" PostId="11353" Text="Uhmmmm interesting approach the one with extension tube and magnifying glass!" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:34:13.040" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17155" PostId="11358" Text="Definitely going to try the motion blur in the color layers, nice workaround cabbey! Also, besides lensbaby, are there any plastic lenses for reflex cameras? (Canon mount if possible!)" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:36:08.700" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17156" PostId="11355" Score="1" Text="I agree with cabbey, the technique that you mention here recreates the blur effect more than the CA effect." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:38:00.243" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17157" PostId="11356" Score="2" Text="@pacoespinoza: Hi there! There's no need to 'sign' your answers here on photo-SE, and our community policy is not to include personal links within answers... I'd encourage you to put links to your Flickr photostream (or whatever you'd like to) in the 'About Me' section of your personal page..." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:38:08.330" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17158" PostId="11358" Text="lens baby isn't plastic afaik, it's very good glass. I'd suggest calling one of the big camera stores and saying &quot;I want a cheap plastic lens with lots of chromatic aberration, got any? or any recommendations of stuff you refused to carry because it was junk?&quot; I bet a few of the places in NY will be FULL of suggestions for that. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:42:17.797" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17159" PostId="11337" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean: Thanks for your answer! There's no need to 'sign' your answers here on photo-SE..." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:43:23.927" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17160" PostId="4724" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9617/" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:45:51.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17161" PostId="633" Text="Adding an example of an image you have taken that you consider to be unsatisfactory would help." CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:47:20.190" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17162" PostId="4735" Score="1" Text="Also: If you have motion-detecting sensors in your camera (like the gyros/accelerometers in an iPhone, or the sensors used for image stabilization) that data could be used to aid the creation of the filter. Perhaps in the future the camera makers will start embedding that data in the images. http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/imudeblurring/" CreationDate="2011-04-27T16:50:32.777" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17163" PostId="11349" Text="@Sean: When I saw the ASCII art, I immediately felt a strong urge to post that very comment" CreationDate="2011-04-27T17:11:10.117" UserId="3171" />
  <row Id="17164" PostId="11342" Text="@Matt: Thanks. When does one get this XMP file. Does it vary for each captrued raw image file or these XMP files are stored and used by Photoshop?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T17:27:09.843" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17165" PostId="11352" Text="@pradeep, I don't believe I quite agree with @Stan on the availability of foot-zoom: often the object of interest is simply far away, or there is water/etc. in the way. However, very long lenses get insanely expensive very fast, and they have have a variety of use limitations like high minimum shutter speeds and great mass and bulk. Thus, you might end up happier if you focus on photography that doesn't require such long lenses." CreationDate="2011-04-27T17:30:49.047" UserId="27" />
  <row Id="17166" PostId="11322" Score="1" Text="The Pentak K5 does indeed have a **native** ISO range of 100-12800. The ISO 80 setting is not native, hence its categorization of *expanded ISO*. @cmason is correct in his assertions. Many cameras seem to choose an expanded low ISO of 80 rather than 50 since their &quot;true base&quot; ISO is 160 rather than 100. " CreationDate="2011-04-27T17:36:48.327" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17167" PostId="9402" Text="This doesn't read as an answer on how to improve performance of aperture; you might want to consider rewording this to focus on how your setup is different, and how that might improve performance for the original poster..." CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:04:38.343" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17168" PostId="11354" Score="1" Text="Hi Blake, and welcome to the site. What you've posted here as an answer, doesn't read like an answer -- this is a question and answer site, not a general forum (feel free to take a look at the [FAQ](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq)); you might want to consider rewording this to explain how the original poster can improve the performance of their system." CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:08:52.100" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17169" PostId="9384" Text="@cam8001, based on that response, you might want to consider accepting one of the answers." CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:14:08.103" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17170" PostId="11357" Text="Or even... http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/portrait+lighting" CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:14:49.363" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17171" PostId="11274" Text="@ysap, gosh I suspect that is what really prompted my question." CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:33:38.380" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17172" PostId="2628" Text="nice explanation, very clear and very helpful..." CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:36:59.983" UserId="4727" />
  <row Id="17173" PostId="9871" Text="thanks for the updates, I only recently got enough karma or whatever to be able to comment. I fixed a couple of other little errors too." CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:46:29.140" UserId="4335" />
  <row Id="17174" PostId="11343" Text="As far as I can tell, the picture you have posted is correctly exposed. You also appear to be using your cameras full dynamic range, as you have every tone from pure black to pure white. I'm not sure what more you are expecting." CreationDate="2011-04-27T19:27:46.900" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17175" PostId="11358" Score="1" Text="Lensbaby has interchangeable optics, one of the options is plastic lens. Looking at samples in Lensbaby gallery, it seems to add  glow, not chromatic aberrations." CreationDate="2011-04-27T19:55:59.603" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17176" PostId="9382" Text="The poster doesn't say if they're using a solid state drive (SSD), but I should point out that defragging an SSD is not only pointless, but will put needless wear on the driving, causing it to slow down over time." CreationDate="2011-04-27T20:12:53.000" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17177" PostId="11358" Text="@cabbey -- shipping a package from NY to Argentina is about $50." CreationDate="2011-04-27T20:14:41.530" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17178" PostId="11363" Score="1" Text="Just one point: I'd dispute the &quot;unlike prime lens design&quot; -- prime lens designs are also pretty complex, largely because people expect primes to be fast and quite a few aberrations are proportional to (for example) the square or even cube of the aperture. A 50 f/2.8 can be really simple, but a 50 f/1.4 generally isn't so simple, and a 50 f/1.0 may be more complex than a short-range (e.g., 3:1) zoom." CreationDate="2011-04-27T21:47:15.540" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17179" PostId="11358" Text="@mattdm, true, so Andres probably doesn't want to BUY one there, but the phone call should be cheaper, and should impart some useful info." CreationDate="2011-04-27T21:50:47.360" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17180" PostId="11367" Score="2" Text="Note that the flash bulbs used are *many* times more powerful than electronic flash. There was an interesting lighting sidebar in the National Geographic photos of Lechuguilla, where they used flashbulbs to light up an immense space brightly enough to shoot Kodachrome -- I can find the photos online, but not the technical info, but if you can find the issue in a library (or in somebody's collection), it's an interesting read. Oh, and you'd need a camera that does M-sync (X-sync opens the shutter before the bulbs are anywhere near full strength)." CreationDate="2011-04-27T21:51:33.847" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17181" PostId="11325" Text="That's another question I've wondered about, but it's probably not worth a whole SE post. Is (macro) contrast effectively the same as the dynamic range of a particular photo?" CreationDate="2011-04-27T23:20:56.940" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17182" PostId="11326" Text="Is that low-pass filter optical, electronic, or software? I've often wondered about that." CreationDate="2011-04-27T23:23:38.297" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17183" PostId="11325" Score="1" Text="Actually, that is a great question! Dynamic-range is the range of luminance that was captured but contrast refers to the range of luminance of the image. If the mapping was linear, they would be the same, but it is rarely so, most images are produced using a non-linear tone-curve from RAW data to a specific color-space such as sRGB." CreationDate="2011-04-27T23:28:56.283" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17184" PostId="7088" Text="For the record, iPhoto has the same feature." CreationDate="2011-04-28T00:58:27.917" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17185" PostId="11326" Score="2" Text="Its an optical filter. Its part of a stack of filters that usually sit in front of the CMOS or CCD sensor itself. These days, the filters themselves are usually rather complex...often consisting of several layers. In the case of Canon: IR filter, dichromic mirror (reflects IR rather than absorbing it), low pass horizontal filter, quarter wave plate (converts linear polarized light to circular), low pass vertical filter, often with multicoating on each element of the whole filter setup." CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:11:03.727" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17186" PostId="11352" Text="For what it's worth, the longest lens I ever owned (though I rented longer, up to 1600mm, for aerospace photos when I was in the Forces) was a 400mm on a 35mm, and it spent most of its time sitting in front of an extension tube so I could get closer than the 3m minimum-focusing distance when needed. That's over a couple of decades hiking through Algonquin and Kejimkujik National Parks. For water, they've got these neat things called boats and canoes (and hip waders). If you see something that's truly once-in-a-lifetime at a distance, it'll be gone before you can change lenses, so crop." CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:11:42.410" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17187" PostId="11358" Text="@mattdm, true, perhaps i've selected some kind of fast shipping when i tried to buy it. @cabbey I'm probably going to buy an used one on ebay. S&amp;H usually is cheaper there." CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:21:49.170" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17188" PostId="11194" Score="1" Text="At least as useful as the histogram (and more useful IMHO) is to turn on the highlight warnings (the &quot;blinkies&quot;) in playback. The histogram will tell you that pixels are &quot;blown&quot;; the blinkies tell you *where* the blown pixels are. Specular reflections (or strong light sources, like the sun in frame during the midday hours) are going to blow out unless you make everything else near-black to compensate. The highlight warnings will tell you when you are losing *important* detail, which is much better than just knowing that some pixels are going to be white." CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:24:59.423" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17189" PostId="11363" Score="1" Text="Owning a 50/1.4 myself, I know it is fairly simple (although not as simple as a 50/1.8). It should also be noted that, as an example, the Canon 50/1.8 is known as one of their sharpest lenses...even sharper than the 50/1.2 L from around f/2.0 and onwards...the additional complexity of the 1.2 is more due to its incredibly wide aperture and the attempts to make it as sharp as possible AT the maximum aperture than the fact that it is a prime lens. But from a general design perspective, prime lenses don't *necessitate* complexity like a zoom lens usually does." CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:30:06.037" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17190" PostId="11363" Text="@jrista: Sorry, I phrased things poorly -- I just meant that primes aren't *necessarily* trivial to design. Yes, a 50/1.8 is pretty trivial -- but a 50/1.2 isn't nearly *as* trivial, and a 50/1.0 is pretty non-trivial. Most of the long, fast apochromatic lenses are pretty non-trivial too (300/2.8, 400/2.8, etc.)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T02:39:04.003" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17191" PostId="11376" Text="Ouch! I'm hoping that there is another way since I wont accept to overwrite my files. My system is made to be highly organized even outside of LR and searching using the file-system by date would be compromised as well as years of backups which would no longer match." CreationDate="2011-04-28T03:32:00.627" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17192" PostId="11366" Text="Get 50mm f/1.0 (if you can find one) and you'll be able to shoot this without flash, you'll need to use at-least 1600-3200 ISO though =)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T03:52:53.117" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="17193" PostId="11363" Text="I would make the same argument for all of the listed lenses though...achieving a very fast aperture while maintaining high quality at maximum aperture necessitates more complex design...but that is not a necessity of primes themselves...thats more a driving force of wider apertures...and the same would go for zoom lenses. Barring that...I think my statement still holds true." CreationDate="2011-04-28T03:55:20.587" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17194" PostId="11377" Text="When you say &quot;sitter&quot;, are you referring to the model?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T05:44:59.810" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17195" PostId="633" Text="He explains briefly [how he made this shot](http://strobist.blogspot.com/2010/06/using-nd-filters-to-kill-depth-of-field.html) on his blog. He spends most of the time talking about the neutral density filter he used to let him open his aperture, but it appears he used a [60&quot; Photek Softlighter II](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/75852-REG/Photek_SL_6000_Umbrella_Softlighter_II.html) and a Profoto head." CreationDate="2011-04-28T05:53:22.110" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17196" PostId="4735" Text="Sounds like a fun iPhone app to write." CreationDate="2011-04-28T06:10:41.440" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17197" PostId="11273" Text="I'll start small and build up :)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:44:13.277" UserId="4881" />
  <row Id="17198" PostId="11309" Text="Actually the information provided so far has been very usefull. I will ask more specific questions based on this though. Thanks for empathising!" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:44:56.787" UserId="4881" />
  <row Id="17199" PostId="11280" Score="1" Text="Thanks lens advice is useful" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:45:28.237" UserId="4881" />
  <row Id="17200" PostId="11250" Text="@John I've the stamina, but my spine doesn't like supporting a 40+lb bag of gear any longer. Age causes that, rather than youth :(" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:47:09.190" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17201" PostId="11277" Text="Thanks yes will go to a camera store and try out the body. Leaning towards the Canon 6D at the moment. Need to think about the 2nd hand lens, maybe a good idea. Good advice on doing the courses first I will do that" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:47:30.373" UserId="4881" />
  <row Id="17202" PostId="11250" Text="80-200 does only one thing? It's maybe the most versatile lens in my arsenal, I'd leave home without my 28-70 before leaving my 80-200 behind." CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:48:17.690" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17203" PostId="11298" Text="Thanks. I'm not i n a rush so I will get a price from the camera stores as you suggest and then try the auction boards" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:48:57.050" UserId="4881" />
  <row Id="17204" PostId="11352" Text="there may be off-brand TCs that work with that lens (they existed for my old Sigma 70-210 20+ years ago for which no Sigma TC was offered), but indeed not Sigma TCs. It'll deliver extremely poor results if you can fit one of course." CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:50:23.867" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17205" PostId="11376" Text="@Itai it would be possible to reset the file dates to be based on shooting date, if it did change them (Personally, I use the &quot;Picture Taken On&quot; column if I'm outside of Lightroom)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:50:31.247" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17206" PostId="11360" Text="you can't use a SIGMA TC with it. Other TCs may exist. Sigma, like Nikon, doesn't list 3rd party accessories in their documentation (looking at Nikon's lens compatibility charts for their cameras for example doesn't list Sigma lenses as being compatible)." CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:51:58.623" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17207" PostId="11309" Text="@Rakkhi, I am glad you have found it helpful. There has been an ongoing debate about the nature of this site and you have fallen into the crosshairs of that debate!! Have you tried posting your questions in one or more of the forums at DPReview.com? It has a large, active (and partisan) membership that will give you a good range of views." CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:56:52.113" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17208" PostId="6637" Text="To my knowledge DxO Mark conduct the most comprehensive, thorough, careful and exact set of photographic measurements that are published on the Internet. My main criticism is that they could use better methods for measuring lens resolution. For example use a microscope to examine the aerial image or better still, use  Hartmann-Shack wavefront analysis." CreationDate="2011-04-28T08:39:50.517" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17209" PostId="6637" Text="@mattdm, do you not believe that, in principle, careful measurements bring greater knowledge and insights to many subjects, including technical image quality?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T08:42:42.963" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17210" PostId="11376" Text="I didn't realize this touched the image files. Are you positive? I'm not that knowledgeable about Lightroom, but I thought it was writing the catalog metadata to some standalone file, then reading that file back in to trick LR into re-scanning the image files." CreationDate="2011-04-28T10:09:33.037" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17211" PostId="11216" Text="which part of &quot;nu user serviceable parts inside&quot; didn't you understand :)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T11:09:31.293" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17212" PostId="7722" Text="@jrista, in response to your last comment I have posted just such a real world test. Hope you find it useful." CreationDate="2011-04-28T11:25:21.637" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17213" PostId="6637" Text="@labnut: I don't argue with the measurements, but with the presentation. Basically, what Itai says. It's wrong to present their measurements as &quot;overall score&quot;." CreationDate="2011-04-28T12:22:01.087" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17214" PostId="11379" Score="2" Text="Diabetes Prevention Program? Democratic Progressive Party? Differential Pulse Polarography? I'm so confused!" CreationDate="2011-04-28T12:27:16.640" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17215" PostId="6637" Text="@mattdm, Oh yes, I agree with that 1000%. The overall score depends on weighting factors which is a heavily subjective matter. Overall scores distort and conceal more than they reveal. As you know by now, I am a numbers man, but, numbers can be readily misused." CreationDate="2011-04-28T12:28:37.013" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17216" PostId="11376" Text="@Rowland - Even on an OS that shows that. It is not very practical to use columns that require opening files to show up, particularly when operating an huge directory trees. The Last Modification Data only requires reading the directory structure on most file systems." CreationDate="2011-04-28T12:34:17.053" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17218" PostId="11376" Text="@coneslayer - This overwrites original files. I checked it and since my FS is read-only got an error 'Lightroom Cannot Write Metadata: Reload from File?' Turns out accepting to reload from file does half the job an recognizes the unknown lens, however it removes all keywords and ratings :( Needless to say, this is not a solution either." CreationDate="2011-04-28T12:50:51.883" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17219" PostId="11379" Score="3" Text="@mattdm I *suspect* DPP refers to (Canon) Digital Photo Professional in this context." CreationDate="2011-04-28T13:03:27.853" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17220" PostId="11387" Score="2" Text="Could you briefly describe how your pinhole lens was made?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T13:20:40.887" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="17221" PostId="11391" Score="6" Text="Pinhole lens DOES have an aperture, it's just not an adjustable one." CreationDate="2011-04-28T13:31:18.890" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17224" PostId="11272" Text="Thanks for all the interesting suggestions." CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:27:00.010" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17225" PostId="11289" Text="I found it makes a very good spotlight in my photography, so that is how I am going to use it. Thanks for your suggestion." CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:28:18.120" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17226" PostId="11393" Score="4" Text="All valid points. However, the benefits you'll get by trying to implement them will be small. I.E.: You can only diffuse/enlarge that tiny flash so much, and you only have limited flexibility bouncing with a card. Personally I wouldn't spend a dime on pop-up solutions, but save towards a good (used?) strobe head instead." CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:31:52.953" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17227" PostId="11379" Score="2" Text="I understood &quot;Digital Post-Processing&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:33:47.617" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17229" PostId="11325" Text="Hmm, interesting. If I ask a full-blown question, would you like to expand on the details in your answer?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:38:26.693" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17230" PostId="11393" Text="Agreed, but the question did explicitly state there wasn't the budget (at least right now) for an external flash. Plus it will help him understand how flash light can be modified, which will make any future purchases more informed. " CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:39:52.073" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="17231" PostId="11365" Text="True, my 50mm f/1.8 creates a lot of CA. It shifts to blue when the focus is too far and to orange when is too close. I will try this lens and the magnifying glass." CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:50:31.517" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17232" PostId="11393" Score="3" Text="Fair enough... I just hope he doesn't spend $30 on a Gary Fong Pop Up Flash Diffuser when he could have a real flash for $50." CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:51:01.767" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17233" PostId="11360" Text="I just clarified the list is only about compatibility with Sigma lenses.  Other TC's exist of course, but if a Sigma lens is not on that list, I don't think a TC from any maker will work with the lens." CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:59:35.940" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17234" PostId="3160" Text="possible duplicate of [Should I buy a DSLR to get started?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/417/should-i-buy-a-dslr-to-get-started)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:02:55.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17235" PostId="417" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5883/are-there-disadvantages-to-a-prosumer-camera-for-a-beginner-aside-from-cost" CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:03:20.977" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17236" PostId="7722" Text="@labnut: linky?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:35:02.313" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17237" PostId="11377" Text="&quot;Sitter&quot; has been standard English for &quot;the subject of a portrait&quot; for a couple-three centuries. Some sitters are models (exemplars), particularly in classes or in advertisements, but most are just folks playing the part of themselves in this life." CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:38:44.027" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17238" PostId="7722" Text="@jrista, below this comment (if I understand you right)." CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:39:35.873" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17239" PostId="11391" Score="3" Text="@Imre: or rather, the pinhole lens _is_ an aperture. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:50:11.123" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17240" PostId="11402" Score="4" Text="But the B&amp;W film has layers as a color film? Inverting the color layers makes the red hue, but if there's only one layer available... That why I think there will be no changes at all, but maybe I'm missing something :F" CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:58:13.457" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17241" PostId="11393" Score="2" Text="+1 Many of the mods for making it a little better can be done for basically free. However, the best way to get good results with it is to not use it. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T16:15:11.767" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17242" PostId="11380" Text="Ah! Thanks much for the technique! This is what I consider real-world DR, and a value that a photographer can **rely** on out in the field. " CreationDate="2011-04-28T16:54:12.103" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17243" PostId="11401" Text="@Koiyu: Thanks. I donwloaded the exiftool and checked the CR2 file I have, and it showed no information related to temperatur/WB in it. Is it possible for you to check my RAW CR2 file from: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0ByuMwWMOjsD0MWFmNjRlMTQtZDcwZS00MzEzLWE0MjktMWRmMjdhY2E5Yjkx&amp;hl=en  and let know the outcome of exiftool for colour temperature related data in it. Or else something is amiss with the Raw mode setting which I did while I captured this file." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:04:45.660" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17244" PostId="11366" Text="Serious? Or Joking? And can a good one be had for less than 10k?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:07:13.907" UserId="3206" />
  <row Id="17245" PostId="11402" Score="3" Text="I agree, the B&amp;W film doesn't have layers that react to color differently.  I think it would simply behave like a two-stop ND filter.  It might have some effect on grain possibly, if grains of different size were at different depths..." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:07:17.547" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17246" PostId="11401" Text="@goldenmean sadly, the &quot;download original&quot; option under &quot;File&quot; is grayed out. Is there any other way for you to share the file? (or am I doing something wrong)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:08:37.203" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17247" PostId="11401" Text="@Sorry my error. Pls check the link in my comment above now. Its a zip file having the CR2 inside it." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:09:09.057" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17248" PostId="11401" Text="@Koiyu: When I run exiftool on my CR2 image which I shared with you, this is the result:- https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0ByuMwWMOjsD0ZDU1ZDYzZGItODBjMS00MmU5LWJhY2MtMDQ1MWUyNjUxYmJi&amp;hl=en " CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:19:49.597" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17249" PostId="11401" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean, I updated koiyu's correct answer with the dump from your file. BTW, in my experience IrfanView only shows a dumbed down subset of exif, it shouldn't be trusted for much beyond the basics. ExifTool FTW." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:20:09.767" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17250" PostId="11401" Text="@goldenmean This is what I got with `exiftool -g1 -h MG_5366.CR2 &gt; MG_5366.html` (`-h` makes html output and `-g1` prints specific group headings (such as `canon` used in my answer)) http://baa.fi/se/MG_5366.html" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:23:08.953" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17251" PostId="11401" Text="@Koiyu: Thanks for the result. But I dont see that outout. I am using exiftool(Windows Executable) version 8.56 with commandline as:  exiftool -canon:'WB_RGGB*' -canon:'*temp*' /Users/cabbey/Downloads/MG_5366.CR2" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:23:16.330" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17252" PostId="11401" Text="@Koiyu: Now I get what you showed. exiftool -g1 did the trick. thank you so much." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:28:18.277" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17253" PostId="11401" Text="@goldenmean I tested the command in my answer with the Windows executable and it seems you need to use **double quotes** instead of single quotes. I.e. `exiftool.exe -canon:&quot;WB_RGGB*&quot; -canon:&quot;*temp*&quot; file.CR2` should work" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:31:21.910" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17254" PostId="11401" Text="(and as a side note the `-g`+number option just visually groups the data. You should get full dump just with `exiftool.exe file.CR2`)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:34:08.460" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17255" PostId="11401" Text="@Koiyu: Thanks. But now I see a difference in Colour temperature as shown by Adobe Photoshop and exiftool. e.g. for the image I shared with you - Adobe PS = 6400. Exiftool = Color Temp As Shot  : 6844. Any ideas why this discrepancy?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:43:24.240" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17256" PostId="6732" Text="Thank you for the best practise comments" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:45:49.993" UserId="3149" />
  <row Id="17257" PostId="11377" Text="The more you know." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:53:13.423" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17258" PostId="11401" Text="@goldenmean are you sure it's the same file? Both cabbey's and mine dumps show `Color Temp As Shot` as 4955 and if I open the file in Photoshop, I get temperature as 4900 (and +17 tint). Anyway, I think the WB RGGB levels play more crucial role in how Adobe Camera Raw interprets &quot;color temperature&quot; rather than the lone °Kelvin value." CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:55:03.060" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17259" PostId="11401" Text="@Sorry not the same file but some other one, still Adobe PS + tint is not equal to what is given by exiftool. lot of difference." CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:01:00.777" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17260" PostId="11401" Text="@goldenmean the Color Temperature doesn't actually matter. Only the WB RGGB Levels do; see my edit." CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:31:00.533" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17261" PostId="11407" Text="Thanks Jerry, great advice. Do 3 RAW files have enough information at +-2EV for photoshop to do its thing?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:31:39.170" UserId="4440" />
  <row Id="17262" PostId="11407" Score="4" Text="@Jeremy B. Yes, usually anyway. Your basic aim is to ensure that you have at least one exposure that maintains detail in the darkest shadow areas, one that maintains detail in the brightest areas (short of true specular highlights), and at least one every couple of stops in between." CreationDate="2011-04-28T18:34:45.307" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17263" PostId="11392" Text="Just to alleviate any budget concerns - a basic off camera flash doesn't have to cost a fortune. They exist for under $50 US http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IZ9XTI .  Don't get fooled into thinking you HAVE to buy a Canon branded 300 dollar flash." CreationDate="2011-04-28T19:11:30.470" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17264" PostId="11414" Text="+1 - I like your answer better than mine..." CreationDate="2011-04-28T19:13:16.833" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17265" PostId="11392" Score="3" Text="Reminds me of the sorta-old photographers joke: &quot;**Question:** How do I get professional looking pictures with this instant camera? **Answer:** Don't use that instant camera to take pictures.&quot; If you want good results with a popup flash, in the long run your best bet is to not use the popup flash... No snark or sarcasm should be read into this comment, BTW. Only sharing my 'cranky-old-guy-photographer' thoughts on the matter. :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T19:16:34.163" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17266" PostId="11325" Text="There could be a little more to say that would be of general interest. Not sure there would be much more that would be that important for photography though." CreationDate="2011-04-28T20:00:51.843" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17267" PostId="11392" Text="@rfusca - unfortunately I'm not in the US or Europe, so my choices are to buy the $300 Canon flash (for more than $300) buy other high price 3rd party flash that is available here, buy a &quot;no name&quot; flash that I can't even find on Google (no reviews, no company web site, no online stores that have it) or pay about $50 just for shipping." CreationDate="2011-04-28T20:20:34.753" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="17268" PostId="11392" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - you are absolutely right, but as a &quot;responsible adult&quot; I can't spend too much money on a hobby and I've just used up my birthday presents on a prime lens and a tripod - so that means I have to make do with the popup flash until I can find a good excuse to spend the money on an external one." CreationDate="2011-04-28T20:28:23.730" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="17269" PostId="10865" Text="@coneslayer - Did the test today. Circular polarizer, 2 stops loss. Multi-Coated circular polarizer, 2 stops loss. Super Multi-Coated circular polarizer, 2 stops loss. Circular HD polarizer, 1 stop loss (yes, I own one of each, time to sell a few!). I always *knew* it was 2 stops, only I had not checked with the HD one. That is a lesson for me to refresh my knowledge often." CreationDate="2011-04-28T20:43:16.300" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17273" PostId="11406" Score="1" Text="&quot;You'll also have more scratches in the film since the fragile chemistry side will be exposed to the mechanical parts that normally only see the smooth polyester base side of the film&quot; So that's why all my redscale films end up all scratched! Thanks Cabbey!" CreationDate="2011-04-28T20:54:41.110" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17275" PostId="10751" Text="Indeed in NEF red color is not clipped. NEF is ~11MB/shot , not that much. Only x2 compared to FINE JPG which is 6-7 MB. And NEF+JPG saving mode is most convenient, given 8GB memory card. Thanks" CreationDate="2011-04-28T21:22:40.650" UserId="4333" />
  <row Id="17277" PostId="2274" Text="We had the non-IS version of the 18-55 that came with the 20D, but we sold it along with the 20D.  We ended up buying the kit lens with the T2i, and also the 50mm 1.8, which for the price is a great lens.  Still need to decide on a zoom, but the 70-200 F4 L is still my leading candidate." CreationDate="2011-04-28T21:27:44.377" UserId="937" />
  <row Id="17278" PostId="11421" Score="13" Text="+1. And I would add: ask yourself if this is the kind of photography you _want to be doing_. There's nothing wrong with it (or with being the person doing it), but as this answer clearly outlines, it's a very specific and exacting type of work." CreationDate="2011-04-28T22:26:02.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17279" PostId="11417" Score="3" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9114/ " CreationDate="2011-04-28T22:26:47.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17280" PostId="11414" Text="@John Cavan - Where is yours?" CreationDate="2011-04-28T23:19:32.610" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17281" PostId="11414" Text="@ysap - I removed it, Jay was far more complete and expressive, so why keep it around? :)" CreationDate="2011-04-28T23:24:19.093" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17282" PostId="11399" Score="1" Text="These particles in the air coming from traffic pollution, industrial complexes, power stations etc." CreationDate="2011-04-29T00:02:31.203" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="17283" PostId="11396" Score="2" Text="The &quot;Which one do you prefer?&quot; part beggs of a discussion. If you wish to chat about the merits of sunrise and sunset, and discuss personal preferences, a better place to do it would be the Photographic Memories chat. There is a link to it on our sidebar. --&gt;" CreationDate="2011-04-29T00:30:13.790" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17284" PostId="11396" Score="3" Text="I'm glad you asked this question as I was witness to a sunrise on Monday for the first time in quite a few years, and I was actually surprised at how different it was in character (being notably cooler, and brighter in intensity). I had always considered the two fairly symmetrical. " CreationDate="2011-04-29T00:30:23.400" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17285" PostId="11394" Score="2" Text="And, if you go this path, don't forget to tell us the results of your experimentation." CreationDate="2011-04-29T00:38:09.973" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17286" PostId="11414" Text="@John Cavan - well, if everyone would do this, we'll end up with a concise version of Photo.SE ... Remember, this is a discussion forum, not an encyclopedia. Your answer could raise further discussions in the comments." CreationDate="2011-04-29T00:41:07.160" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17287" PostId="11414" Text="@ysap - I generally agree, but it doesn't really add to the discussion in this case as it was a quick, off the cuff, answer and Jay's is better. Otherwise, I would have left it." CreationDate="2011-04-29T01:11:25.253" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17288" PostId="11262" Score="1" Text="Oh man, I sure wish I had a better grounding in optics, 'cause getting **sexy points** sounds double-awesome! Thanks, that made me laugh... :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T03:55:22.613" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17289" PostId="11405" Text="Canon DSLRs don't let you manually control the output of your pop-up flash? On Nikons, manual flash power is buried in the menu, but at least it's there." CreationDate="2011-04-29T04:32:13.793" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17290" PostId="11421" Score="6" Text="The truth is there's a whole sea of guys who go, &quot;people like my pics, I should try selling them on stock sites!&quot; without realizing that there's a couple thousand other shooters who think the same thing. And the answer to the title question is: you really can't, not in this way." CreationDate="2011-04-29T04:51:08.910" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17291" PostId="11393" Text="+1, but you forgot a very important thing: the color of the flash. Most of the time when you need flash, you're indoors under tungsten lighting, often dimmed (which makes it even redder.) I find that warming the flash (using a taped-on gel or one of [these](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040HYMI0)) makes the pop-up flash a lot less jarring." CreationDate="2011-04-29T05:09:59.893" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17292" PostId="11399" Score="1" Text="most of which work 24/7..." CreationDate="2011-04-29T06:52:41.410" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="17293" PostId="11399" Score="3" Text="Yes, but the thermals generated by the sun warming up the land cause the particles to rise into the air more actively. They tend to settle in the night when it cools." CreationDate="2011-04-29T07:18:24.060" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17294" PostId="11414" Score="1" Text="@ysap: Actually, according to the FAQ, a discussion forum is specifically *not* what photo-SE is... With that said, I understand (and agree with) the underlying sentiment of &quot;multiple answers are better than a lone answer&quot; that you were trying to convey. Just wanted to make sure we weren't inadvertently propagating misinformation..." CreationDate="2011-04-29T07:26:06.390" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17295" PostId="11414" Text="@John Cavan: I appreciate the vote of confidence! We must have hit 'submit' at almost exactly the same time... I didn't see a '1 New Answer Has Been Posted' message before I logged mine..." CreationDate="2011-04-29T07:27:34.283" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17296" PostId="11426" Text="@Mouli: What's your price range? How large do you want to be able to print your pictures?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T09:04:48.593" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17297" PostId="11426" Score="6" Text="@Mouli: Also, you'll almost *never* find a situation where you can compete at home with a basic mass-market lab on price. Unless you are extremely diligent at strictly managing your costs and waste, printing at home is generally far more expensive than sending them out... If you're diligent, it will possibly only be *slightly* more expensive than a lab. What printing at home does is give you *control* over your prints. **Disclaimer**: The above applies to the US. It also *probably* applies to other countries as well, but I have no experience printing photographs anywhere but in the US. :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T09:09:03.050" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17298" PostId="11426" Text="Hi Jay, between USD 100-200, mostly 4X6, 6X8 and may be if it works - 8X12.. thanks for the reply." CreationDate="2011-04-29T09:12:58.797" UserId="4936" />
  <row Id="17299" PostId="11399" Score="1" Text="The coldest part of the 24 hour day is just before sunrise, which has a variety of effects." CreationDate="2011-04-29T11:20:12.510" UserId="1368" />
  <row Id="17300" PostId="11417" Score="2" Text="If it makes you feel good, your pictures look great :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T11:34:16.143" UserId="442" />
  <row Id="17301" PostId="11426" Text="@Jay In Soviet Russia, the prints have control over *YOU.*" CreationDate="2011-04-29T12:23:04.750" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17302" PostId="11425" Score="1" Text="Please see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10980/are-websites-like-kenrockwell-com-and-bythom-com-reliable" CreationDate="2011-04-29T12:36:38.017" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17303" PostId="11427" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5936/does-a-photographer-take-pictures-or-make-pictures" CreationDate="2011-04-29T12:39:25.390" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17304" PostId="11427" Score="3" Text="My title's kind of a tongue-twister...neat." CreationDate="2011-04-29T12:46:11.343" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17305" PostId="11425" Text="Very interesting thread, thanks for the link." CreationDate="2011-04-29T12:46:46.727" UserId="2145" />
  <row Id="17307" PostId="11427" Text="As an aside, if it really were a photo taken in Trafalgar Square, then the photographer would legally have had to pay a (hefty) fee for a permit." CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:09:25.817" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17308" PostId="11427" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/4140/21" CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:17:10.460" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17310" PostId="11428" Text="So I suppose my _Trafalgar Square_ example wasn't a good one -- one might argue that public property gives everyone an implicit license to profit from it, as long as one doesn't exclude another. But I don't see how this addresses the _papparazzo_ example, where the &quot;object&quot; has agency; one's legal name isn't literally the person, but one still has tangible rights over it, to sue over things like slander and libel. Indeed, people have many representations of themselves protected by law, such as their online identities, credit card information, etc." CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:33:08.787" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17312" PostId="11403" Text="Modern dSLRs, including the Canon 550d mentioned in question, meter flash using TTL and do not need adjustment of flash compensation when bouncing or diffusing, TTL automatically adjusts power when using those tricks." CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:54:37.950" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17313" PostId="11427" Text="Come to think of it, In a similar vein: Why should I have to pay for water; after all, it just falls out of the sky..." CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:24:41.820" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17314" PostId="11426" Score="3" Text="For 4x6 prints, you can't compete with a mass-market lab. For larger prints, you can compete but *only* with a substantial up-front investment -- ink cost is usually inverse to printer cost. As @Jay Lance said, the advantage you gain is in control and quality, not cost." CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:34:06.420" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17316" PostId="11427" Score="1" Text="@Rowland Shaw I don't think your analogy is fair; what I'm really wondering is not that photographers profit, as a water company might from delivering water to our homes, but that they profit exclusively from pictures taken in public spaces -- if I'm not mistaken, water companies have to buy water rights from governments and individuals to mark up that water.  Why don't _papparazzi_ and street photographers have to buy personality rights from their subjects?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:40:59.217" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17317" PostId="11427" Text="As it happens, you can't sell a photo taken in Trafalgar Square without paying the Greater London Authority a hefty sum. Same goes for Parliament Square and the Royal Parks. Just saying... :)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:47:36.043" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17318" PostId="11418" Text="I did this with my 550D and I can confirm that it actually works. No idea why this happens, but it works!" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:51:59.130" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17319" PostId="11414" Text="@John Cavan: Keep in mind that a concise answer is valuable too. Jay Lance's is awesome, and not *particularly* long, but there can certainly be value in a shorter version of something already written. While your answer might not be worth as many the upvotes, I doubt it was worth a deletion. :-)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:52:14.543" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17320" PostId="11413" Score="1" Text="Undeleted it under peer pressure... :)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T14:57:07.000" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17321" PostId="11421" Score="3" Text="Great answer!  I think we've all been tempted by the stock business until we figure out this answer either by experience or research." CreationDate="2011-04-29T15:06:31.830" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17322" PostId="11428" Score="1" Text="It is still a representation and interpretation of a person at a moment in time, and thus a creation of the artist more than the person being photographed." CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:30:26.923" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17323" PostId="11427" Text="Are public _figures_ public property?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:32:28.060" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17324" PostId="11403" Text="Thanks for the correction." CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:46:23.553" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="17325" PostId="11392" Text="While it still might be out of your budget, this flash is $160, comparable to the highest-end Canon &amp; Nikon flashes, and comes highly recommended by Strobist: http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,14648.html" CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:59:01.120" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="17326" PostId="11429" Score="4" Text="+1 for &quot;Anybody can do it, because everybody can do it. We're all free to photograph and profit from public spaces.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:21:31.717" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="17327" PostId="1180" Text="Have you find a reliable way to interpret the lens data? All S/W which I tried (Lightroom, Bibble, etc) get it somewhat wrong." CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:30:39.967" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17328" PostId="11426" Text="I agree with @Jay and @Jerry here. If you just need to do smaller prints, you will get a far greater cost/benefit ratio with a mass-market lab than with buying your own printer. Ink cost becomes exorbitantly expensive the smaller and cheaper the printer and the fewer the prints, so you probably won't realize the benefit your looking for if you buy your own small-format printer." CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:35:19.067" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17329" PostId="11429" Text="@Sean While I liked the overall message of Jędrek's answer, and upvoted it, I'm not so sure that particular argument works. Say I were to borrow my neighbor's &quot;bicycle&quot; (his personality rights), and go on a joyride for my personal amusement and profit, and upon returning he accosted me about it -- I couldn't very well say to him, &quot;Well, you can borrow _my_ bike any time you want&quot;, could I? Isn't that part of the fundamental nature of property rights  -- that we are allowed to refuse arrangements that someone else might see as more than fair?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:44:06.267" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17330" PostId="11432" Score="1" Text="+1 I would tend to agree except they haven't given up the right to ***any*** privacy, just certain forms of it. In other words, just because I stroll around the park doesn't mean you get to see my bank account. :)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:59:24.257" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17332" PostId="11430" Text="Have you, by any chance, tried [printing BW images with your Selphy](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6550/how-well-do-dye-sublimation-printers-perform-with-black-white-pictures)?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:06:36.167" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17333" PostId="11429" Text="@Billare - Setting aside for a moment the differences in physical vs. intellectual property and under what circumstances the later can be considered stolen... I liked the quoted text as a rebuttal to a potential 'fallacy of composition' argument. Namely, that for some behavior to be considered sustainable and beneficial in a society, its claimed positive effects must hold even when that activity is engaged in by all members, not just a few. **While this is not a complete philosophical justification in and of itself, it is a critical element that must be present for any fair justification.**" CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:18:54.533" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="17334" PostId="11436" Text="Do you have a instructions on how to turn off the pop-up flash? I wrestled for a while with it but the manual wasn't very clear. At least not to me ..." CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:25:02.907" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17335" PostId="11436" Score="1" Text="If it works like Nikon or Pentax, the control flash actually _must_ fire during the actual exposure. The choice to use it as not a light source (&quot;controller&quot; instead of &quot;master&quot; in Pentax terminology) diminishes the impact on the exposure, but if you're up close or in the dark, may not eliminate it. That's where the SG-3IR comes in." CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:49:00.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17336" PostId="11438" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [Digital Photography Tutorials](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4203/digital-photography-tutorials)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:52:53.490" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17337" PostId="11436" Text="@mattdm, as far as I understand, the 7D wireless flash operates the same way so I don't believe I can actually turn it off but I may be wrong." CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:54:10.100" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17338" PostId="11436" Text="This is easily tested with a mirror." CreationDate="2011-04-29T18:55:30.570" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17339" PostId="11436" Text="Yes, as stated in the answer. I know it does happen. I'm asking how to get around it or if I'm actually misunderstanding settings." CreationDate="2011-04-29T19:01:09.737" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17340" PostId="11427" Score="1" Text="@billare: Perhaps you may be interested in reading Lawrence Lessig's Free Culture, which while not specific to photography is an extensive analysis of the considerations behind intellectual property: http://www.free-culture.cc/" CreationDate="2011-04-29T19:03:27.927" UserId="4942" />
  <row Id="17341" PostId="11428" Text="@Kendall Helmstetter Gelner I still don't get it.  You have a photograph.  I create a digital representation, a copy of your photograph, at a single moment in time, in my high resolution scanner.  I blow up 2x, tint it blue, for use on the box of some software I'm selling.  It's not the work, exactly, but an interpretation.   I don't pay the original creator of the work.   Now, I'm only a naif in photography, but I don't think a single photographer here would condone that course of action.  Photographers obviously don't see their photos as ordinary &quot;objects&quot; in the sense cmason is describing." CreationDate="2011-04-29T19:54:35.737" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17342" PostId="11440" Text="Yeah. The price makes me sad though.   Do you know if using the 580 as a master also flash visible light or just IR?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:05:33.293" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17343" PostId="11427" Text="@Brian M. Hunt I haven't read Lessig, but I've read enough of [Yochai Benkler's](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yochai_Benkler) discussions of his work to have a good clue what he says in the book.   Where my confusion lies is it that photographers don't seem like Lessig's &quot;free culture&quot; people; they are quite exacting over intellectual property concerns with regard to their own &quot;objects&quot;, their work, but I feel they are more dismissive of the property rights of the subjects they take photos of; one might imagine there'd be more of a symmetry." CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:05:37.890" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17344" PostId="11436" Score="1" Text="when using the pop-up as a master, it will ALWAYS fire. But, it is firing only to communicate with the slave. It is not firing when the image is being taken, but you can't tell. When you set the 7D to wireless flash, this turns off the pop-up as a flash unit, and uses it only as a Master.  So you need to choose the Flash Control item at the bottom of the first menu item.  Then under Wireless Function, if you do not want it to flash, you select the single flash icon under the Flash Control menu. When you want it to fire along with your external flash, select the two icons.  " CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:06:19.137" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="17345" PostId="11427" Text="(cont'd) Anyway, what I was hoping that  was that since obviously I can't be the first one to have thought of such an argument, that perhaps someone might give me a reference to a great photographer or photography guru who had written on such philosophical and legal thickets as these." CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:06:39.013" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17346" PostId="11436" Score="2" Text="Thank you for the instructions, but if you do what mattdm said while following your instructions and take a photo in the mirror, you will notice that it does fire during the exposure of the photo. In most cases it's overpowered but in really low light and reflective situations it does have an affect on the photo." CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:18:24.240" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17347" PostId="11441" Text="Was in the middle of writing basically the same thing :)" CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:22:19.887" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="17348" PostId="11392" Text="YongNuo YN-468 is a TTL flash that can be had from DealExtreme under $100, free shipping. Or, a manual flash like YN-460 would be about $40 (I have it)." CreationDate="2011-04-29T20:34:41.677" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17349" PostId="11370" Text="Hi Itai, Could you please try to import a few of your pictures taken by a lens that LR is unable to recognize to Daminion. And check if your lens is visible on the Lens Tags section? I am from Daminion team, and if you send me a few of your files to our support email, then I probably could give you a better advice. To download Daminion for free:&#xA;http://daminion.net" CreationDate="2011-04-29T06:14:47.840" UserId="4365" />
  <row Id="17350" PostId="11370" Text="I'll take a look in a few weeks. If it is not an answer, it should not be posted as such. Use comments at least. Otherwise check people's profiles (clock on their name/icon), as a member of the press my contact info is easy to find!" CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:02:05.710" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17351" PostId="11444" Score="2" Text="Just as a side note, I have myself a D80 too and bought a 50mm 1.8. I wish I had taken time to consider a wider angle (35mm for example), because 50mm on a DSLR is not very practical. It's not really easy to shoot inside." CreationDate="2011-04-29T21:31:36.390" UserId="2145" />
  <row Id="17352" PostId="11444" Text="You asked your question too early ;) No one has seen a 50mm 1.8G yet since it has not shipped. Nikon claims an improved optical design too, so it could be a higher quality lens." CreationDate="2011-04-29T21:39:32.220" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17353" PostId="11438" Score="1" Text="My read on this question (based on how the community has responded to it) is that it is *not* a duplicate, and brings a unique element to the table. There are at least three distinct sentiments on how to start out with photography, only one of which is through the use of tutorials. The others include focusing on taking pictures you like and letting the rest come as a result (David Rouse's answer) and studying other photographers' work to expand your knowledge of  how pictures tell stories (Big Map Ideas' answer). That said, the question could use a little editing, especially the title." CreationDate="2011-04-29T21:44:41.017" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="17354" PostId="11437" Score="1" Text="To be a little US-centric for a second, what good are the taxes going to support our National Parks if the parks aren't photographed and/or visited? And if they are photographed then won't that bring in more visitors and hence fees, and decrease the tax burden a little (or make the resources go further)?" CreationDate="2011-04-29T22:44:38.297" UserId="109" />
  <row Id="17355" PostId="11427" Text="There's a couple more &quot;see alsos&quot; that are relevant here. Particularly, this question on model releases: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5031/is-a-model-release-needed-for-all-commercial-photo-sales, and this one on property releases: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10601/has-there-ever-been-a-ruling-on-the-necessity-legality-of-a-property-release-fo." CreationDate="2011-04-30T01:48:58.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17356" PostId="11427" Text="And, an off-site background article worth reading: Wikipedia on &quot;Personality rights&quot;: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personality_rights " CreationDate="2011-04-30T01:54:21.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17357" PostId="11427" Text="I hate to make your tongue-twister title even longer, but I'm afraid it really should be expanded to include people and property separately, since they're really two different, related issues." CreationDate="2011-04-30T01:55:12.440" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17358" PostId="11405" Text="You can't do manual control of the output of the built-in flashes for Pentax cameras either. You can change the &quot;Flash EV compensation&quot;, but that's still calculated as an offset from the automatic value." CreationDate="2011-04-30T02:10:19.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17359" PostId="11427" Text="@mattdm My title was near too long as it was, and I'm afraid editing it to include that bit has made it come off more hostile than I really intend it to be..." CreationDate="2011-04-30T02:15:32.173" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17360" PostId="11427" Text="Well, maybe it's really two questions.... (Not saying it has to be, but maybe that's a way to untangle the issue a bit.)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T02:20:23.147" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17361" PostId="11427" Text="@mattdm Perhaps you should take the lead in creating that question? I don't want to exhaust my goodwill with you folks by asking two &quot;softish&quot; type questions in a row." CreationDate="2011-04-30T02:21:35.300" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17362" PostId="11403" Text="In my experience trying kludgy bounce tricks before I broke down and bought a real flash, though, something doesn't quite go right with TTL, and maxing out the flash compensation _did_ help. " CreationDate="2011-04-30T02:53:13.633" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17363" PostId="11428" Text="An exact duplicate is not artistic because there is no change, no input from yourself whatsoever in presentation.  Put it on an easel, at an angle, in specific lighting - then you have added something and the same argument applies.  The line is when you add elements together to make an image." CreationDate="2011-04-30T04:23:35.270" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17364" PostId="11432" Text="@John Cavan: Well now, I guess that depends on whether you're strolling around the park carrying a powered-up netbook with an open WiFi connection, doesn't it. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T04:51:12.957" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17365" PostId="11438" Text="I'm going to leave this as is...its certainly not a **duplicate** of the tutorials question. That question is an excellent reference for the question asked, however, and it is useful to link. I am currently agreeing with @Sean, the question could use improvement (@Kirk Hammett), but I think it is perfectly valid overall. I believe we should let this question remain without closure for now." CreationDate="2011-04-30T06:00:52.170" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17366" PostId="11433" Text="&quot;but they won't give you prints with border problems&quot; - depends on how wide are your borders. I had problems with precise printing at Walgreens. Printing 11x8 of this http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7784/techniques-for-high-speed-photography/7785#7785, where the borders are just a couple of mm, I had to trim out the outer frame b/c the print was skewed enough to notice the asymmetry. " CreationDate="2011-04-30T06:01:23.820" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17367" PostId="11435" Text="The SG-3IR is pretty simple: it's just some IR-translucent, visible light-opaque plastic with a convenient holder. Unfortunately, Canon cameras apparently have a mini-switch to detect the presence of something in the hotshoe, so you have to cut off the right part of the SG-3IR's shoe. See http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=785999" CreationDate="2011-04-30T06:49:15.980" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17368" PostId="11449" Text="Thanks for mentioning RawTherapee, i didn't know it and it's looking promising." CreationDate="2011-04-30T07:44:21.020" UserId="4291" />
  <row Id="17369" PostId="11444" Text="@Matthieu That might be because of the crop factor. Your 50mm acts as 75mm on your D80. (I'm still looking for a nice ~60mm for portrait shots for my D90.)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T12:44:47.777" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17370" PostId="11455" Text="I suspect a computer hardware problem of some sort. Do you still have the untouched originals on a memory card?" CreationDate="2011-04-30T13:02:05.833" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17371" PostId="11455" Text="A couple of more questions... What version of Photoshop/Bridge are you using? Is it up to date? What happens when one of these is opened in Capture NX?" CreationDate="2011-04-30T13:49:23.437" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17372" PostId="11378" Text="I've got some awesome results following your steps: http://i.imgur.com/d7lHX.jpg (may be a little exaggerated)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T14:49:28.777" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17373" PostId="11378" Text="@Andres Cool! Maybe some more blurring around the edges would make it less obvious..." CreationDate="2011-04-30T15:38:02.670" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="17374" PostId="11378" Text="I think the best part is in the center of the image, where the CA is subtle but visible. I will try with other images later. Thanks @Autopulated!" CreationDate="2011-04-30T15:43:41.890" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17375" PostId="11422" Score="1" Text="+1 good tagging is important." CreationDate="2011-04-30T16:02:56.493" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="17376" PostId="6637" Text="+1 I like my comparisons quantitative, with numbers, not all arty and 'the shadows are strong in this one...'." CreationDate="2011-04-30T16:10:09.750" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="17377" PostId="1711" Text="Myself I'm using Photoshop CS5 because I need it for other things as well. I didn't know that Elements version is so cheap. +1" CreationDate="2011-04-30T17:17:56.993" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="17378" PostId="11464" Score="1" Text="Can you be more specific with the model, i.e. max aperture? The current range listed on Vivitar's website doesn't seem to include a 200mm lens." CreationDate="2011-04-30T17:31:10.337" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17379" PostId="11466" Text="Thank You everyone, got inspired by the replies. Tried manual settings, I really liked the way it has come, what do ye say, can I continue shooting photos?" CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:06:44.143" UserId="4916" />
  <row Id="17380" PostId="11460" Text="Thanks a lot for giving info and inspiring me." CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:07:44.530" UserId="4916" />
  <row Id="17381" PostId="11413" Text="+1 for bowing to peer pressure. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:51:39.177" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17382" PostId="11467" Score="1" Text="I want to vote it up...I really do...but you just recommended spit.  Spit... man, come on..." CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:56:13.073" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17383" PostId="11463" Text="possible duplicate of [How can I tell if the built-in flash on my dSLR is broken beyond self-repair?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11216/how-can-i-tell-if-the-built-in-flash-on-my-dslr-is-broken-beyond-self-repair)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:07:52.703" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17384" PostId="11467" Score="1" Text="Hey, if a fella's stuck in the desert... Spit may be all he has!" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:19:45.567" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17385" PostId="11467" Text="@rfusca: Happy? ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:22:19.433" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17386" PostId="11467" Text="@Jay: But...stuck out in the desert...isn't spit the most valuable commodity one has? ;)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:25:18.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17387" PostId="11468" Score="5" Text="Any chance you could clarify your answer with a few more details, and an explanation of why manual mode might work?" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:25:53.233" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17388" PostId="11467" Score="2" Text="@jrista: No way! The most valuable thing he has is the awesome pictures that he takes! Invest a little spit... Take awesome pictures. That's my motto. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-04-30T19:29:56.023" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17389" PostId="11467" Text="@Jay: Touché, touché." CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:00:42.423" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17390" PostId="3335" Text="Knowing what the native ISO of your camera is only marginally useful, yes, but knowing what determines native ISO is important to understanding how sensors work, which *is* worthwhile IMO" CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:24:20.473" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17391" PostId="6302" Text="+1 A really great informative site. I went with second-hand Metz 58 AF-1 after studying all the options." CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:28:43.563" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17392" PostId="3252" Text="Just a little note here: the X-Rite ColorMunki is also an end-to-end solution, and is not significantly different in price from the equivalent Spyder3 solution. I don't know how much fine-tuning of printer profiles the Spyder allows; the ColorMunki will let you tweak the hell out of the tones that matter most to you (like, say, skin tones for a portrait photog)." CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:31:29.160" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17393" PostId="3760" Text="The asker is not having problems with too much flash power, his problem is too much ambient light for shooting with sync speed at wide aperture." CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:38:51.477" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17394" PostId="11465" Score="3" Text="To put the danger into some perspective: a cardiac defibrillator uses the same circuitry as a xenon photoflash -- same high-voltage generator, same capacitors, same regulating circuits (well, except that they're designed to fail safe) -- except that you take the place of the flash tube in the circuit (and the method of initiating the discharge is different). While the pop-up may not have 400 joules ready and waiting (as, say, a studio strobe easily might) it *can* trigger an arrhythmia or a fibrillation." CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:41:21.603" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17395" PostId="11466" Score="1" Text="Whether you continue or not is entirely a personal decision. There is no way any of us can decide for you...especially not from a single sample photo without any context. If you really enjoy photography, my recommendation is of course to continue shooting!" CreationDate="2011-04-30T20:47:27.763" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17397" PostId="11472" Text="+1 good suggestions. I think a nice hotshoe flash with a diffuser will help a lot. Another possibility for lens choice would be fisheye, but that is for something nonstandard. A wide or super wide, far open would be very useful though." CreationDate="2011-05-01T00:15:20.120" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="17398" PostId="11470" Text="Little bit of a broad question, unfortunately. Could you give us a full gear list of what you've got, or do you only have the D90?" CreationDate="2011-05-01T00:57:36.577" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="17399" PostId="10836" Text="I have the Canon 70 - 300mm, and whilst it's a wonderful lens, it's no good for portraits or macro (which I take you mean by Flowers/Insects), purely because of the focal length, especially on the 1.6x crop sensor of your 500D (or my 550D)." CreationDate="2011-05-01T01:00:32.627" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="17400" PostId="11413" Text="@Jay Lance - LOL, thanks for the bonus. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-01T01:44:52.683" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17401" PostId="11466" Text="@jrista nailed it on the head... I'll add, don't ***force*** the image, create it. This image seems forced to me, but I will, 100%, say you should continue. This is, after all, how you learn." CreationDate="2011-05-01T03:11:23.360" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17402" PostId="10836" Score="1" Text="I'm happy with my Nikkor 18-55mm, but I live in Montana and often times I find my self&#xA;in the middle of a forrest, or even a stream, and my wide angle may be great for that shot but if I like the scene with a longer lens I have move out, find a nice flat dry area and change lens, that I don't like. Also we have fences, (do not enter) more often than not the wide shot is great, but a horse, or some other part of the scene needs to be closer, can't move, and time may be important. (I'm debating, the Tamron 18-270 PZD)&#xA;Robert" CreationDate="2011-04-30T22:09:49.780" UserId="4961" />
  <row Id="17403" PostId="11466" Score="1" Text="Also keep in mind, it takes time to build skill. You should consider your first 10,000 shots practice, and don't judge yourself until you've hit 10,001. As they say...practice makes perfect. " CreationDate="2011-05-01T04:20:25.280" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17404" PostId="11455" Text="The untouched originals are no longer on a memory card, but I did catch this early enough to copy them a second and third time - same result." CreationDate="2011-05-01T05:23:44.030" UserId="4952" />
  <row Id="17405" PostId="11455" Text="Im using CS4 and it is up to date.  Again, I'm at 70,000 clicks on this body and never seen this before.  Im anxious to get out and shoot again.  I tried some tests in the basement and couldn't reproduce it." CreationDate="2011-05-01T05:25:59.097" UserId="4952" />
  <row Id="17406" PostId="11455" Text="@matt - I didn't mind the title edit, but couldn't resist the rollback badge :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-01T05:28:04.040" UserId="4952" />
  <row Id="17407" PostId="11455" Score="1" Text="@Jess -- no problem. :) Welcome to the community here! I do suggest a more meaningful title, though. It'll be more likely to bring in someone who knows what's going on, and more helpful to people who have a similar issue. Same with the &quot;data-corruption&quot; tag. " CreationDate="2011-05-01T06:15:42.743" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17408" PostId="11455" Text="When you copied them a second and third time, is the same result that they're corrupted in Bridge and then okay, or is it that they always seem fine now?" CreationDate="2011-05-01T06:17:48.170" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17409" PostId="11470" Score="1" Text="I changed &quot;club&quot; to &quot;nightclub&quot;, since there's already a few questions tagged with that for _photo_ clubs — very different!" CreationDate="2011-05-01T06:22:33.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17410" PostId="11438" Text="I agree that this question isn't &quot;show me some tutorials!&quot;. However, the answers there _do_ point to a lot of helpful getting-started information covering all three of the approaches Sean mentions, so I hope the link to that other question us helpful to Kirk and to others. " CreationDate="2011-05-01T06:42:13.890" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17411" PostId="11438" Text="Also, based on the great answers this has prompted, I would retract my close vote if I could." CreationDate="2011-05-01T06:54:44.240" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17413" PostId="11262" Score="1" Text="XD Thanks for the sexy points!" CreationDate="2011-05-01T12:42:26.017" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="17414" PostId="11469" Text="+1 I don't think this lens has any electronic contacts at all." CreationDate="2011-05-01T12:44:50.167" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="17415" PostId="11479" Score="2" Text="Could you add a brief analysis as to how strong the backing in psychology and art history is for this rule?" CreationDate="2011-05-01T13:06:52.963" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17416" PostId="11480" Text="See @Guffa's answer...." CreationDate="2011-05-01T13:14:47.517" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17417" PostId="11477" Text="Can you provide some reference for being unable to mount older lenses on &quot;newer, more capable Nikons&quot;?  I'd not heard that before." CreationDate="2011-05-01T14:31:03.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17418" PostId="11474" Text="Depending on where you live and the laws and the particular club you will be shooting at, you may also want to get permission from the club first. If you use a nikon SB-600 or upwards or similar flash supporting the Nikon CLS system, you can also avoid the need for a cable." CreationDate="2011-05-01T14:39:48.963" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="17419" PostId="11477" Text="@rfusca The [lens compatability chart at Nikonians](http://www.nikonians.org/nikon/slr-lens.html) follows the Nikon manuals and disallows pre-AI lens mounting on the &quot;D40&quot; generation of bodies. However, if you feel like living on the edge, you can trust [Ken Rockwell's list](http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm#dslr)." CreationDate="2011-05-01T15:17:17.177" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17420" PostId="11477" Text="@gerikson - Doesn't that same chart show the giant &quot;No!&quot; for the D3100 also?" CreationDate="2011-05-01T16:25:00.783" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17421" PostId="11474" Score="1" Text="Yes to both those things, although I've found that with Canon's off-camera control system if you hold the flash behind the camera it sometimes won't fire." CreationDate="2011-05-01T16:42:20.053" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17422" PostId="11477" Text="@rfusca, the Nikonians list is more conservative than Rockwell's. To which one do you refer in your comment?" CreationDate="2011-05-01T17:15:26.920" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17423" PostId="11477" Text="@gerikson Nikonians - I trust Ken about as far as I can throw him." CreationDate="2011-05-01T17:26:40.327" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17424" PostId="11433" Text="@ysap-- that's pretty miserable.  Did they at least offer to reprint, or a refund?" CreationDate="2011-05-01T17:48:03.590" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="17425" PostId="11487" Score="1" Text="Actually, I usually work with **Lightroom** (sometimes Photoshop : textures or some B&amp;W conversions), it seems indeed to be a good idea buying the complete collection for Lightroom ([link](http://bit.ly/j1Qe1n)), cheaper than only Silver or Color but with 5 plugins ! thanks a lot for your advices." CreationDate="2011-05-01T17:55:39.193" UserId="78" />
  <row Id="17426" PostId="11453" Score="2" Text="The wide inverted form of Bakker's Saddle is an excellent way to compose landscape panoramics. When you have a coast line, or a mountain range, anything that stretches off into the distance, lining the edge along Bakker's diagonal usually results in a pretty pleasing outcome...with things disappearing off into the distance of the upper right corner." CreationDate="2011-05-01T18:21:59.513" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17427" PostId="11479" Score="10" Text="Just don't go applying this rule to couples photography!" CreationDate="2011-05-01T18:32:57.670" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17428" PostId="11477" Text="@rfusca I wish I could offer more than anecdotal evidence and Ken Rockwell. The Flickr group referenced has more information regarding non-AI lenses." CreationDate="2011-05-01T18:53:11.483" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17429" PostId="11478" Score="12" Text="Jay almost certainly knows the answer to this question, but has asked it anyway (&quot;seeded it&quot;) for the benefit of the site. By asking the question, he made me (and certainly some others) aware of this concept." CreationDate="2011-05-01T20:09:57.360" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17430" PostId="11478" Score="2" Text="Made me aware of it!" CreationDate="2011-05-01T20:33:10.483" UserId="4014" />
  <row Id="17431" PostId="11491" Score="7" Text="Based on my biases, I'd say the correct order is stitch first, HDR later -- much later. After the sun dies, and the universe goes into heat death would be about the right time..." CreationDate="2011-05-01T22:31:11.263" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17432" PostId="11491" Text="@Jerry - The reaction is understandable, I find most HDR images online seriously nauseating. I make my own HDR much more subtle. Even the in-camera ones are rarely tolerable." CreationDate="2011-05-02T05:11:47.007" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17433" PostId="11491" Score="1" Text="@Itai: In fairness, most of it *is* a result of what the photographer has *chosen* to do, so it's probably unfair to blame HDR itself. Even so, I'd say it's a loss more often than not..." CreationDate="2011-05-02T05:27:15.833" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17434" PostId="11490" Text="The skin stuff is great, I've used that a lot - what do you use on the eyes from CFX?" CreationDate="2011-05-02T06:36:36.700" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17435" PostId="11429" Text="Public spaces are not private objects (as per your example Billare). We all profit from sidewalks, parks, roads and sewage systems even if we don't pay for them in any direct way (ex. having underground pipes keeps us from having to look at, smell and navigate around water and sewage trucks)." CreationDate="2011-05-02T07:17:48.680" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17436" PostId="10770" Score="1" Text="This video might help you visualize aliasing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIkyPFLkNCQ -- The &quot;frequency&quot; keeps increasing until it hits the Nyquist frequency (at about 0:37), after which the wave appears to reverse direction and decrease in &quot;frequency&quot; back down to 0." CreationDate="2011-05-02T07:44:54.897" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17437" PostId="11474" Text="CLS also requires a tiny bit of light from the on-camera flash for synchronization. On the D7000 at ISO 3200, f/2.8 this is enough to overexpose my hand at arms length. This will almost certainly be noticeable on your subjects. A SG-3IR works well to block this light, but you might as well go with a cable at that point to avoid line of sight issues (fingers blocking the IR sensor on the flash, etc.)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T08:02:36.970" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17438" PostId="9875" Text="@Simon Not having access to a corn field, I took [these two pictures](http://i.imgur.com/0PHWY.jpg) of my houseplant. Glare isn't nearly as bad of a problem as you might think. While I think the picture on the right is more appealing, half of the plant is hidden in shadow." CreationDate="2011-05-02T08:39:50.743" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17439" PostId="11479" Score="1" Text="It is a [well-known rule of thumb in bridge design](http://books.google.com.au/books?id=9nxWh68ut3AC&amp;lpg=PA147&amp;ots=VjBXotFq2g&amp;dq=aesthetics%20%22odd%20number%22&amp;lr&amp;pg=PA48#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false): " CreationDate="2011-05-02T08:44:34.063" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="17440" PostId="11493" Score="2" Text="If you merge the images to a high dynamic range image without tonemapping, using the same tonecurve for each the images will match no problem. You can then stitch and finally tonemap down to a low DR image once you have the whole scene in front of you!" CreationDate="2011-05-02T09:00:22.543" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17441" PostId="11490" Text="Possibly not the best approach as Lightroom has an adjustment brush for eyes, but I use the contrast only filter and set the &quot;Apply to whole image&quot; slider to 0%. Then I add a 100% control point for each eye and play with the contrast/brightness/saturation and opacity until they suit me." CreationDate="2011-05-02T09:11:28.147" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="17442" PostId="11431" Text="I hear this very valid and practical suggestion... thank you very much" CreationDate="2011-05-02T09:55:01.667" UserId="4936" />
  <row Id="17443" PostId="11433" Text="Thanks for the answer. I agree with you totally!  " CreationDate="2011-05-02T09:56:40.373" UserId="4936" />
  <row Id="17444" PostId="11434" Text="Thanks very much for the extremely practical thoughts. I love your point no#1 and infact thats one of my interests to dig deep into the printing... many thanks for the answer." CreationDate="2011-05-02T09:58:33.693" UserId="4936" />
  <row Id="17445" PostId="11426" Text="@Jerry Coffin - I agree with you, and I realise after reading all the expert advices here. Though the cost was one factor I thought, But I always wanted to experiment with printers to know more about getting better prints." CreationDate="2011-05-02T10:00:57.793" UserId="4936" />
  <row Id="17446" PostId="11498" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/24/is-there-a-noticable-difference-between-1-8-and-1-4-prime-lens" CreationDate="2011-05-02T12:06:35.757" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17447" PostId="11470" Text="@mattdm Good point, thanks! :)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T12:55:35.180" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="17448" PostId="11487" Text="And here is non-bitly link, if Libyan addresses start to disappear or if someone wants to know where they are really heading at: https://webshop.niksoftware.com/4DCGI/ezshop?action=direktanzeige&amp;artikelnummer=Nik-1402&amp;sTICKCOUNT=608677834&amp;skontaktid=1133075&amp;skontaktkey=svjrjaDeBrrwZfexX5kw2QoHKY6A5m&amp;suchid=817978" CreationDate="2011-05-02T12:59:24.677" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17449" PostId="11483" Text="It was a toss-up between your answer and the one I accepted - thank you both for the info!" CreationDate="2011-05-02T13:32:49.637" UserId="3367" />
  <row Id="17450" PostId="11503" Score="1" Text="Maybe some sort of vegetation growing on the back of pet's eyes reflecting the light? " CreationDate="2011-05-02T13:35:00.713" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="17451" PostId="11417" Score="2" Text="Agree with Ivo. Nice images, good variety, great colors. " CreationDate="2011-05-02T13:54:27.723" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17452" PostId="11505" Score="1" Text="Wikipedia has a picture of a cat which dramatically illustrates red eye and &quot;eyeshine&quot; occurring simultaneously." CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:03:42.920" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17453" PostId="11490" Text="Interesting technique, I'll try that out.  I've been using Viveza2 on the eyes for essentially the same effect (adjusting contrast and brightness).  The only reason I may keep doing that is I also use Viveza for large scale adjustments to background brightness too." CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:22:06.260" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17454" PostId="11491" Score="1" Text="My preference would always be to combine images before stitching for exactly the reason you state!" CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:31:30.437" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17455" PostId="11465" Text="I once took apart disposable camera after removing the film just to mess around. As soon as it was open, I accidentally touched a circuit near the flash and my right arm was instantly numb. I was lucky." CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:32:14.400" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17456" PostId="11507" Text="Gotta agree, lack of space means a large loss of light control." CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:36:43.463" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17457" PostId="11509" Text="I really wish you could favourite answers. I like your review of the L lens." CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:41:51.883" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17458" PostId="11491" Text="@Matt - Right. Actually I realize most of my images would not be stitchable at all exposure levels, since they contain either sparse highlight details with everything else black or sparse shadow details with everything else blown-out." CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:44:15.857" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17459" PostId="11513" Text="Thanks. Kind of what I needed to hear. Am leaning towards the &quot;L&quot; but it is re-assuring to hear something like &quot;not in the same league&quot; Interesting article. My candits are at the bottom of my list and those I do are of my family. Don't think i will be putting a portfolio for Magnum anytime soon but I very much agreed with most points. As for me, I rather like the telephoto &quot;perspective compression&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:56:34.450" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17460" PostId="11506" Text="Don't have a complete answer but I remember seeing studio lights attached to a rail system on the ceiling. They were extremely easy to unfold and point in various directions. I was told it cost under $1K USD. Then you have to take care of finding a goat-proof background... perhaps you can make double-use of curtain rods already there and install sliding backgrounds." CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:14:51.373" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17461" PostId="11507" Text="Good point; let me add that to the question...." CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:21:16.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17462" PostId="11503" Score="1" Text="...and lets not forget Riddick" CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:24:00.473" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17463" PostId="11506" Text="Can you give some estimates of the size of space we're talking about?" CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:42:34.630" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17464" PostId="11514" Text="What I've understood is that the setup time is somewhat longer, but scan time per item is substantially shorter (well, if one comes up with a good aligning solution at least). Many parts of the post-processing can be automated, not to mention that the scans from a (flatbed) scanner would probably also need some p-p. I am aware of the possible alternatives (added this to the question after your answer), but not interested in them right now :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:45:20.553" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17465" PostId="11514" Text="@HenryJackson - The talk in the flickr discussion seems to indicate the exact opposite - he was blazing through them, according to him about 6-7 seconds a photo.  And the post processing you're probably going to have to do a bit either way." CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:45:48.510" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17466" PostId="11514" Text="@rufsca: but a flatbed scanner takes zero setup, and essentially zero time per photo. You just sit there and read the paper as it does its thing." CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:47:50.957" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17467" PostId="11187" Text="nope, not even Disk Utility sees the device, I know that's weird, it seems like the CF memory got completely broken by the process :(" CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:49:35.603" UserId="4818" />
  <row Id="17468" PostId="11514" Text="@HenryJackson - Right, but its doing it MUCH slower.  Just try to get a reasonable price on a high resolution scanner that does its business in under 10 seconds...  You'll be spending weeks reading a paper as it &quot;does its thing&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:51:52.077" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17469" PostId="11514" Score="2" Text="@koiyu: Sounds like you fall into the &quot;fun project&quot; category. Good luck! I maintain that a scanner sounds easier, but if it's about the DIY-ness, then have fun!" CreationDate="2011-05-02T15:52:37.877" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17470" PostId="11514" Text="@Henry (The MacGyver in me is awaking) So is time the only element I will be missing? Or do e.g. the dynamic ranges / something else differ in a way that the differences will be noticeable? " CreationDate="2011-05-02T16:00:50.823" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17471" PostId="11515" Text="I have mixed feelings of ICE, but I didn't know it uses an IR light source - interesting! *(So what if I'll add an IR lamp to the lightbox...)*" CreationDate="2011-05-02T16:03:55.437" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17472" PostId="10645" Text="The Nikon AF-S 35mm f/1.8 G DX isn't made in the Tochigi plant, it's made in China.&#xA;This lens was on backorder well before the earthquake in Japan, it's not being discontinued." CreationDate="2011-05-01T23:16:54.423" UserId="4970" />
  <row Id="17473" PostId="11506" Text="@rfusca: what, is &quot;zero&quot; not specific enough? :) Seriously, it's a &lt; 1000 sq-ft city apartment, with typical poorly-planned hallway layout, odd-shaped rooms, and retrofitted fire exits. Once things like beds and bookcases, desks and toychests, tables and chairs are accounted for, there's nowhere left to be a _dedicated_ space. It is _ours_, though, so we can paint or put holes in things as need be." CreationDate="2011-05-02T16:30:56.333" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17474" PostId="11506" Text="And I don't mind displacing the chickens. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T16:31:37.737" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17475" PostId="11479" Text="@Matt Grum, would you agree that couple photography works well if the persons are intimately touching each other so they almost form a single subject (*the couple*), but has an awkward feel when the partners are apart?" CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:01:30.007" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17478" PostId="11328" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - Wow, that's *extremely* helpful. Thanks! " CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:50:45.500" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="17479" PostId="5192" Text="Judging by the size and shape, they were probably taken on 120 or 220 film (56mm variable aspect), not 110 (5&quot;x4&quot; until 1929; 13x17mm since 1972)." CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:51:54.070" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17480" PostId="11503" Text="+1 for not injuring your dog. (Also, good question :P)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:59:24.323" UserId="1435" />
  <row Id="17481" PostId="11329" Text="Okay, I need a large aperture range for night shooting, then; other than that, will concentrate on lenses with good sharpness in their reviews. I'll be looking for a good general-purpose lens, hopefully better than the starter lenses that come with bodies. (I think I'm going with Canon, not certain yet.) This answer will be of help when looking for lenses; thanks! " CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:02:32.387" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="17482" PostId="11508" Text="You don't have to do photography to notice this green reflective layer; staring into a cat's eye at exactly the right angle will let you see that at naked eye :)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:17:45.683" UserId="479" />
  <row Id="17483" PostId="5192" Text="@Imre: I don't think &quot;110&quot; means &quot;110mm&quot; -- it's smaller than 35mm film. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/110_film" CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:25:30.150" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="17484" PostId="5192" Text="@BillyONeal yes, I meant that same &quot;110 film&quot; you are linking to (the Wikipedia article also links to the older roll-format film with same number)." CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:29:30.797" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17485" PostId="11520" Score="2" Text="Ah - I had no idea this would affect it, I do indeed have a UV filter on the front. " CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:31:53.707" UserId="3959" />
  <row Id="17486" PostId="11520" Score="1" Text="@AlastairC: Awesome. Now, make another big bonfire and try again with the filter off, so we can see if that was indeed it. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:34:41.240" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17487" PostId="11520" Text="Also, if your filter got a thin film of smoke on it from the fire, that might increase the effect." CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:34:41.537" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17488" PostId="5192" Text="@Imre: I'm confused. It looks like both 120 and 220 are medium format films; these images are certainly not taken on medium format (they're small and very grainy)." CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:37:09.693" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="17489" PostId="11520" Score="1" Text="I'll ditch the UV filter, I'd added it assuming it was needed to protect the lens. " CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:38:12.143" UserId="3959" />
  <row Id="17490" PostId="57" Score="1" Text="See http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/981/. I'd love to see some objective, analytical information here, since this is such a contentious topic. The lenstip article is a start, but is not without flaws. (Bounty added to the question for that purpose)." CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:38:58.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17491" PostId="11508" Text="Yup, headlights are particularly effective at showing them up." CreationDate="2011-05-02T18:49:07.327" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17492" PostId="11520" Text="Have fun! Let us know if I really was correct, but I'm quite confident. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:07:29.830" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17493" PostId="5192" Text="Well, I did not know about the grainy part :) 60x60mm (i.e. roughly 2½&quot;) squares are a common square format shot on 120/220, so I suspected you'd have contact prints from those." CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:09:09.563" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17494" PostId="5192" Text="@Imre: Why would one use medium format for images so small?" CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:17:51.737" UserId="2361" />
  <row Id="17495" PostId="11521" Text="an interesting theory, but the odds of seeing the shape of the logs mirrored in the smoke? seems pretty slim to me." CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:22:06.393" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17496" PostId="2186" Text="I find the &quot;green button&quot; meter readings to be annoying compared to using the same lenses with the continuous needle meter of my K1000. I think this should be mentioned more strongly." CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:42:50.637" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17497" PostId="5192" Text="Why would anyone use such a small format at all? Cataloging might be an answer. The contact prints can be made without using an enlarger and could have been used to select images for larger prints." CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:47:35.020" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17498" PostId="11523" Text="With the nice weather, outdoors is definitely the way to go. It's the other 11 months of the year in Boston that this is really needed for. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-02T19:48:25.373" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17499" PostId="11478" Score="1" Text="And what in hell justifies the downvotes here (4 d.v. at this time)??? @foosion did answer the question correctly. He just wondered how come the referred text does not explain it. From his rank (113) it is evident that he is relatively new at this site, and probably not so familiar with @Jay and his method of &quot;seeding&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-02T20:06:31.533" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17500" PostId="11478" Text="@ysap Haven't voted myself, but I can see that only the simplest part of the question has been answered, and it shouldn't be considered odd for a person wanting to hear other perspectives about something he read from a (possibly confusing) book." CreationDate="2011-05-02T20:20:35.113" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17501" PostId="11514" Text="@koiyu: As you can probably tell, I have never done this and so have no idea about the quality, other than the quick pixel calc I mention in my answer. I guess I would be surprised if you could do a better job with a lightbox and macro lens than a dedicated scanner, but I really don't know." CreationDate="2011-05-02T20:28:23.597" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17503" PostId="11508" Text="Nice answer, +1, but no one as yet has explained why the color is green specifically..." CreationDate="2011-05-02T20:47:32.170" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17504" PostId="11508" Score="2" Text="@billare: actually, eyeshine can be white, green, blue, yellow or pink, depending on the angle you view it at." CreationDate="2011-05-02T20:57:08.727" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17505" PostId="10517" Text="Any result in the meantime?" CreationDate="2011-05-02T20:58:13.467" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="17506" PostId="9875" Text="@Evan Krall I agree — Something I have not thought of is that plants usually are not flat with their surface facing the camera. So, measuring should just be robust against shadow/glare :)  No way around this, as it seems." CreationDate="2011-05-02T21:03:28.063" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="17507" PostId="11455" Text="I assume the problem is with thumbnail images in the cache, not a problem with the NEF file. First thing I'd do is adjust the thumbnail size in Bridge and see if it recreates the thumbnails. If not, then clear the cache and restart bridge and see if the problem goes away.  And as John Cavan suggested, try Capture NX or View NX to see if it's an Adobe related issue, or actually something wrong with your NEF files.  I'll bet it's the Adobe cache." CreationDate="2011-05-02T21:11:24.333" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="17508" PostId="92" Text="So does it reduce image quality if I take a step backwards and introduce another 2 feet of air between the camera and the subject? Just because something in theory might make a difference doesn't mean it will in practice." CreationDate="2011-05-02T21:37:53.953" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17509" PostId="11514" Score="2" Text="Getting the colour balance right for a colour negative film is also damn difficult with a negative scanner." CreationDate="2011-05-02T22:03:14.773" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17510" PostId="11521" Text="The link to 'Luminous Landscape' in John Cavan's answer showed the same effect with spot-lights. My example is unusual because you can see the shapes of the logs in it, but it looks like just the same effect." CreationDate="2011-05-02T23:00:16.093" UserId="3959" />
  <row Id="17511" PostId="11520" Score="1" Text="Just adding that I have seen the same problems with UV filters when shooting mostly dark scenes with bright spots, such as candles. Even being aware of it, I'd forget to remove the filter fairly often, so I'm going without now." CreationDate="2011-05-02T23:13:08.527" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="17512" PostId="11509" Text="Also, the front element of the 70-300 rotates while focusing. If you are using a polarizer you will need to adjust the polarizer's rotation after every non-trivial focus." CreationDate="2011-05-02T23:39:50.333" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="17513" PostId="11516" Score="3" Text="Hi Kari. You seem to have asked a question, however you have posted it as an answer to another question. If you do indeed have a question to ask, use the &quot;Ask Question&quot; link (the yellow one) in the site header." CreationDate="2011-05-02T23:50:25.950" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17514" PostId="11538" Text="Thanks for answering... I love his stuff, and I haven't ever seen a bad portfolio product of his... but your right. ... Maybe it's all photoshop?... :)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:30:34.400" UserId="4988" />
  <row Id="17515" PostId="11538" Score="1" Text="Maybe. If he is EV-bracketing at an insane speed ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:35:37.387" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17516" PostId="11539" Text="Good point. I once came across a famous photographer who ONLY shot in black and white for all his photos... (he's contemporary). When I find him i'll post it up. Guess people buy into a photographers &quot;style&quot; if they fully understand what they're getting." CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:37:24.007" UserId="4988" />
  <row Id="17517" PostId="11535" Score="1" Text="Live-view often works better in very dark conditions. One such condition occurs when I use an ND400 filter and cannot see through the viewfinder but the live-view shows an image. This is the most common reason for me to use live-view." CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:41:15.450" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17518" PostId="11541" Score="2" Text="Like your points here. Thanks a bunch Itai! Nice gallery btw. +1" CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:44:56.517" UserId="4988" />
  <row Id="17519" PostId="11502" Text="Thanks for the link and the info, mate. Very interesting." CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:45:09.980" UserId="4912" />
  <row Id="17520" PostId="11511" Text="Great answer - thank you. I hadn't thought about the resolution of video, definitely a valid point." CreationDate="2011-05-03T00:46:47.530" UserId="4912" />
  <row Id="17521" PostId="11532" Text="I've been watching this game for over a decade, and I have a hard time understanding how anyone has been able to sell a camera that doesn't have either an optical viewfinder or an eye-level EVF. Why anyone would want to hold even the lightest camera out at arm's length baffles me. That said, I like having the &quot;view camera&quot; experience when that's practical (including a reasonable approximation of a focusing loupe with zoom in live view)." CreationDate="2011-05-03T01:50:49.200" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17522" PostId="11444" Text="@Itai Yeah this question is borderline off-topic, since this product has only been _announced_, not _released_. I'd say let it stay; I'll try to remember to revisit my answer once the lens is actually released to the public and/or good review sites." CreationDate="2011-05-03T01:54:05.780" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17523" PostId="11478" Score="2" Text="@ysap I downvoted because of what I see as a dig at Jay and his question, like &quot;Why would you ask that? It's a stupid question -- you should've just read the book.&quot; I'm fine with removing the downvote and even converting to an upvote if he improves his question." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:05:58.777" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17524" PostId="11544" Score="6" Text="Obligatory: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbVKWCpNFhY" CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:12:36.163" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17525" PostId="11544" Text="lol, now I know where that expression came from!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:15:59.733" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17526" PostId="11478" Text="Rather, if he improves his answer." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:20:20.383" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17527" PostId="11544" Score="8" Text="Because a smart engineer got to the JPEG scale and [earned his $2000](http://xkcd.org/670/)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:23:12.017" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17528" PostId="92" Score="4" Text="Another two feet of air doesn't introduce two more surfaces where the index of refraction changes, so you won't get any reflections from that air. Filters do, so it's a bit more than a theoretical difference." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:33:29.743" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17529" PostId="11536" Score="2" Text="Helmut Newton used natural light." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:34:22.950" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17530" PostId="10621" Text="Any references on that external WB sensor bit? I'd like to read more about that." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:35:34.700" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17531" PostId="11544" Text="@JayLancePhotography - as soon as I saw this question I thought about the exact same scene." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:36:59.530" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17532" PostId="11515" Score="2" Text="@koiyu If you're planning on emulating that functionality with the DSLR, you'll also have to add a set of IR-sensitive sensels to the sensor, or add in a second, IR-sensitive SLR to the setup using a beam splitter or something, and get _that_ aligned so that it sees the same field of view, is focused the same, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:45:51.053" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17533" PostId="11547" Text="Looks like the editor is jacked for me right now - if someone can fix my link, it would be appreciated." CreationDate="2011-05-03T02:51:12.103" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="17535" PostId="11417" Text="thanks friends... :)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:18:09.280" UserId="4727" />
  <row Id="17536" PostId="10621" Text="@Evan - Not sure what you are looking for. You mean other than the manual that comes with the DSLR in question? The latest on to use this is the Olympus E-3. The manual mentions briefly what it does and there is a setting to disable it." CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:20:45.780" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17537" PostId="11542" Score="2" Text="Another place where decentering can show up is the shape of bokeh blobs, they'll sometimes be slightly elongated elipses where normally they'd be perfect circles." CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:22:12.533" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17538" PostId="11551" Text="Thanks Jędrek. Some very interesting and helpful points. I will definitely jot these points down and take them out for a play tonight!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:38:07.600" UserId="4990" />
  <row Id="17539" PostId="11550" Text="Thanks Mike. Very helpful!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:38:59.037" UserId="4990" />
  <row Id="17540" PostId="11542" Text="@cabbey — &quot;bookeh&quot;? :)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:46:14.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17541" PostId="11546" Text="This seems a little more fiddly than it should be, but it works! Hopefully in the future Apple will refine the process a bit. Thanks for the tips." CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:49:40.417" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17542" PostId="11542" Text="rofl. D$#%Autocorrect. Bokeh. and of course I can't edit it now." CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:52:45.607" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17543" PostId="10621" Text="When was the latest Nikon to use this? I haven't seen any references to such a sensor before - I assumed auto white balance was done using the RGB meter sensor." CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:53:45.577" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17544" PostId="11544" Score="1" Text="This is the same program that has sharpening that goes up to 500%" CreationDate="2011-05-03T03:55:49.210" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="17545" PostId="11548" Score="1" Text="To answer your last question, I think it's pretty common practice to stick with one of the program modes, usually aperture priority, for changing light situations. In studio settings or other places where light is consistent or you otherwise have time to adjust settings, then manual is used more often." CreationDate="2011-05-03T04:00:54.337" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17546" PostId="11538" Score="8" Text="@Agile He's also probably not showing you the bad ones." CreationDate="2011-05-03T04:03:42.417" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17547" PostId="10621" Text="Nikon D2Xs is the last IIRC. You can see a close up of the sensor on the D2H which is from the same time-frame: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond2h/page3.asp" CreationDate="2011-05-03T04:12:18.733" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17548" PostId="11551" Score="2" Text="I would also suggest, quite simply: practice. Eventually, you'll get better at guessing what exposures you'll need." CreationDate="2011-05-03T04:21:17.037" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="17549" PostId="11548" Text="Thanks Evan...." CreationDate="2011-05-03T04:28:39.197" UserId="4990" />
  <row Id="17550" PostId="11479" Text="Hmm, I would say that actually your last line should have been a numbered line, hence invalidating that point...  :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T05:05:43.797" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17551" PostId="11539" Score="4" Text="I think what @rfusca is stating here is critical: Choosing to use, or not to use, flash is a personal, **stylistic** choice. There is certainly no evidence that says using or not using flash is better...it really boils down to what kind of consistency of style you want. Once you figure that out...all of your gear simply becomes the tools you use to achieve your style." CreationDate="2011-05-03T06:05:12.677" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17552" PostId="11542" Score="1" Text="@Cabbey: Moderator to the rescue. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T06:08:34.610" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17553" PostId="11478" Text="@foosion: Have to agree with @Evan Krall here, your answer really comes off as a dig at @Jay. Regardless of whether he is &quot;seeding&quot;, or asking for opinions about something he may have read, providing a full, unbiased answer without any kind of personal poke is far more acceptable than what you currently have here." CreationDate="2011-05-03T06:31:58.950" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17554" PostId="11408" Text="&quot;only 7 stops down&quot;... That's a lot. Though with a modern body, you should be able to take 1/25s at ISO 3200 in bright daylight; not horrible..." CreationDate="2011-05-03T06:33:12.663" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17555" PostId="11562" Text="yes, this is my first SLR and thank you for your opinion, i might go with kit lens. and i didn't get that, what does this mean &quot;You might consider investing in a set of good extension tubes instead, which will let you use the kit lens as a pseudo-macro lens.&quot;, what is extension tubes ??" CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:19:12.523" UserId="4923" />
  <row Id="17556" PostId="11549" Score="1" Text="My experience is that 95 *is different* to 100 in LR, so it may have some other effect as well." CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:25:43.857" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="17557" PostId="11562" Text="Edited the answer to explain extension tubes." CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:36:09.700" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17558" PostId="11562" Text="sorry, still i am not getting what is extension tubes and pseudo-macro lens" CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:39:55.347" UserId="4923" />
  <row Id="17559" PostId="11562" Text="Sorry, I added the comment before I edited the question - check the answer again." CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:43:05.963" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17560" PostId="11565" Text="(OK these are essentially the same question - what I'm getting at is that I think Bridge builds its own previews rather than using those built into the image)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T09:41:09.407" UserId="4997" />
  <row Id="17561" PostId="11564" Text="Hmm, actually just looking at it again it is quite clear that the colours are a little bit depper in the 12 than the 11. So I guess that negates my whole argument... University is for chumps!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T10:07:04.153" UserId="4912" />
  <row Id="17562" PostId="11408" Text="A lot, but I cam still count it on my fingers. So not _ginormous_. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T10:26:17.873" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17563" PostId="11524" Score="1" Text="+1 I don't use a filter on my $100 50mm f/1.8 because a good one would cost a very substantial proportion of the purchase price!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T10:34:11.753" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="17564" PostId="11511" Score="1" Text="cheers. In actual fact sharpness can be a big problem with video DSLRs as they subsample the sensor in video mode which gives rise to aliasing (weird artefacts when viewing lines/grids/manmade textures). In fact some people use anti-aliasing (blurring) filters over the lens to avoid this." CreationDate="2011-05-03T11:20:53.113" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17565" PostId="11544" Text="I believe the jokes are actually _the right answer_. I remember that in an older version of Photoshop (3, maybe — not CS3, but Photoshop 3), 11 was the top value. And remember, although it's a gigantic corporately-produced product now, the program was originally the handiwork of a couple of genius programmers, a class of people notably fond of such humor. And then 12 was added later, just like the XKCD comic." CreationDate="2011-05-03T11:57:31.587" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17566" PostId="11525" Text="I think some of the other answers here illustrate that people _have_ looked at a picture and seen a difference." CreationDate="2011-05-03T12:10:13.370" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17567" PostId="11569" Score="2" Text="Sorry - what's the question?" CreationDate="2011-05-03T12:34:10.903" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="17568" PostId="11538" Score="2" Text="Isn't that what all photographers do?" CreationDate="2011-05-03T12:52:59.927" UserId="4988" />
  <row Id="17569" PostId="11568" Score="2" Text="Rule #5: Break all your rules." CreationDate="2011-05-03T13:01:11.543" UserId="3050" />
  <row Id="17570" PostId="11572" Text="Ok I've changed the question to get rid of the middle paragraph as it is kind of a derailment." CreationDate="2011-05-03T13:34:07.390" UserId="4758" />
  <row Id="17571" PostId="11401" Text="@koiyu:Thanks for conducting this 'experiement' and sharing this info. " CreationDate="2011-05-03T13:54:52.480" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17572" PostId="11568" Text="@cmason - I must say that I strongly disagree with your #1 - it is strongly dependant on the steadiness of your hand and on how you hold your camera. I usually shoot at 1/30 with a 50mm without a problem, without IS. This is a very personal limit and should be determined by testing." CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:02:09.447" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="17573" PostId="11569" Score="5" Text="Is it blurry, or only black? An example might help, and some details about the camera. (And, what you've tried to fix it already.)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:14:16.567" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17574" PostId="11564" Text="Could be the imgur compression algorithm in action." CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:22:55.420" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17575" PostId="11532" Score="1" Text="@Stan - I personally don't like live view - but watching people around me (where at least 90% of the people wouldn't even think of using a viewfinder) makes me think I'm the weird one and the natural way to use a camera is to hold it at arms length and use the LCD screen" CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:24:32.287" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="17576" PostId="11580" Text="@user4892 For future reference, double spacing twice after the end of the line creates a `newline`.  Second, to create a bulleted list, you need a `newline` between the previous sentence and your bulleted list; then, you can type `-` and insert one space, to create your bullet." CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:36:11.400" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17577" PostId="11568" Text="To each his own @Roland, and of course, everyone should adjust the rules according to their experience.   Its a rule I was taught 30 years ago when I first learned a SLR, and in general I find it holds true. When you pixel peep and are after the absolute sharpest image, higher shutter speeds will help guarantee sharpness. Its a shame to spend $1000-2000 on a high end lens, and then have blurry images. The original question is for general rules, and I feel these are easy to remember and apply for generally better images." CreationDate="2011-05-03T14:39:55.733" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="17578" PostId="11539" Score="2" Text="You can create a dramatically lit portrait in almost any lighting condition with just natural light and reflectors/diffusers.  Just because you don't use flash doesn't man you have no control over the light..." CreationDate="2011-05-03T15:09:03.507" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17579" PostId="11564" Text="Use pixel subtraction for really comparing the differences? http://homepages.inf.ed.ac.uk/rbf/HIPR2/subdemo.htm" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:06:14.487" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17580" PostId="11583" Score="2" Text="This might be helpful: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1306/what-options-do-i-have-for-gps-geotagging-with-a-digital-slr" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:33:19.293" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="17581" PostId="11531" Score="1" Text="Considering this is a common question, I finally wrote a blog post about it which describes the situation as clearly as my biases let me ;) See http://blog.neocamera.com/?p=1248" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:44:37.247" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17582" PostId="11588" Score="1" Text="The PhotoZone test of the 18-135 was abysmal. So bad that it seems like a bad sample, though Pentax said otherwise. http://www.photozone.de/pentax/597-pentax_18135_3556" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:48:43.637" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17586" PostId="11588" Text="I can't help but think that the PhotoZone test was based on a bad unit, but I can't say for sure until there are more resolution tests for this lens.  I'm still waiting for [LensTip](http://www.lenstip.com/) to test this lens.  I wanted to make sure that it was no worse than my 18-55mm kit lens.  That's why I asked this question." CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:59:21.807" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="17590" PostId="11587" Text="+1 for phone with GPS capabilities" CreationDate="2011-05-03T17:24:49.333" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17591" PostId="11566" Score="1" Text="The part about crop factor is not correct." CreationDate="2011-05-03T17:28:14.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17592" PostId="11591" Text="After reading the [user reviews at Pentax Forums](http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-DA-18-135mm-F3.5-5.6-ED-AL-IF-DC-WR.html), I've come to the conclusion that the PhotoZone test was based on a bad unit, since the user reviews indicate that the lens actually performs very well at the 135mm end.  Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T17:50:33.743" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="17593" PostId="11539" Text="@KendallHelmstetterGelner - if you're going toing to start throwing up screens to block light, others to reflect, others to diffuse or whatnot...just use flash." CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:10:08.750" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17594" PostId="11578" Score="3" Text="Sharpness is relative, even within an image. I'd certainly have no problem using the Sigma wide-open, particularly for portrait/beauty type shots -- with one caveat: keep the out-of-focus elements *behind* the subject when you can; the bokeh in front of the plane of focus at f/1.4 is, um, a little busy (to put it politely)." CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:13:03.567" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17595" PostId="11580" Text="Shooting at f/1.2, if you're far enough away your DoF isn't THAT thin - at 20 feet its still a full 2 feet wide on something like a 7D." CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:15:02.567" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17596" PostId="6302" Text="+1 - Very well-written.  In fact, I've bookmarked this site several months ago!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:20:05.697" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="17597" PostId="11539" Text="Flash is really hard to balance exactly right with available light, and almost always lends a very artificial feeling to the image.  If you are going to go to all the work to properly color balance lights and set the power of them correctly, why not just use reflectors...  I use flash when I have to but natural light has always turned out better for me.  Also reflectors require no batteries, are easier to transport, and can last for decades with care.  " CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:31:27.047" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17598" PostId="11479" Text="@mattdm: The 'psychology and art history' angles are kinda your special brand of tilting at windmills (said with affection, not snark)... You might have better luck getting those aspects addressed if you tackle them in an answer yourself... One which will surely gather an upvote at the very least from me as I'm sure it will be written with your usual level of competence. Just a thought... Feel free to take it or leave it without hurting my feelings... :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:58:50.370" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17599" PostId="11591" Text="I put very little stock in MTF charts these days simply because all lenses I've used have been &quot;sharp enough&quot;, even the kit lenses that came with the K-5 (i.e. the 18-55 &amp; 50-200). Put it this way, over the years there has _never_ been a photo where I thought &quot;If only I had a sharper lens, this photo would be better&quot; whereas I've frequently slapped myself for not bringing a lens that was wide/long/fast enough." CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:25:47.857" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="17600" PostId="11596" Score="3" Text="I suppose this question should go to http://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/ because it doesn't have anything to do with photography but rather Photoshop." CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:49:40.270" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="17601" PostId="11596" Text="But doesn't Photoshop have a lot to do with photography? Or is editing photos not discussed here? Sorry, I'm new here, but I would have thought it would be more useful in Photography than Graphic Design." CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:54:28.270" UserId="5005" />
  <row Id="17602" PostId="11539" Score="2" Text="@kendall It's not hard to balance with available light at all, in fact modern hotshoe flashes will do the work for you. If you like you can bracket the shutter speed to ensure the right balance. *&quot;[flash] almost always lends a very artificial feeling to the image&quot;* - Couldn't disagree more, if you know what you're doing and bounce you can get really natural looking images almost every time, see the images I posted here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11536/is-it-acceptable-in-photography-to-never-use-flash/11597#11597" CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:54:44.533" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17603" PostId="11539" Text="Sorry, but in every single one of those images I could tell at a glance flash was used - especially the ones where the color temperature differed.  A lot of them had light obviously much stronger than ambient, which is what I mean by &quot;balance&quot;, to create the illusion that light similar to the surroundings was shot in.  The closest ones in your link are the first and second (real shots, not top), but look at how yellow the light is on her shoulders and how trying to balance the two color temperatures in the third leaves him looking pale.  A gel on a flash gets closer but it's never quite right." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:07:26.230" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17604" PostId="11596" Text="Editing photos is, but not Photoshop usage in itself. Believe me. Graphic designers use Photoshop a lot more (in terms of functionality they use) than photographers do. So it will be better to ask your question there. And don't worry. Site itself is part of the StackExchange anyway. Lots of people here are active there as well (me included). This segregation is good because certain sites don't get *polluted* with unrelated content." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:14:33.243" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="17606" PostId="11596" Score="3" Text="Graphic Designers might use Photoshop a lot, but not necessarily for sharpening photos... I think we can safely say photographers do that just as much as designers do, in any case." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:22:54.947" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17607" PostId="11591" Text="It depends where you start. Never tried the 18-135mm but when I had to send my DA* 16-50mm for repairs, my first idea was to get the 18-55mm as a cheap backup. Big mistake, the quality is horrible, everything looks like it was shot in a dark tunnel. I deleted all the photos from it, returned it and bought another 16-50m. After that I felt silly ruining good photos just to save $800. The lesson is to be careful with expensive gear, it is impossible to go back after!" CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:28:16.500" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17608" PostId="11539" Score="2" Text="@KendallHelmstetterGelner - Regardless of whether you can tell if flash was used or not, I think Matt's images look good. I think the increased brightness of the subjects creates better isolation - but I don't think they look unnatural." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:31:29.640" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17609" PostId="11597" Score="2" Text="Very nice shots." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:34:29.263" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17610" PostId="11524" Score="1" Text="Some of my lenses, purchased second-hand, were actually cheaper than a decent UV filter for them would be :)" CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:37:28.357" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17611" PostId="11571" Score="2" Text="You have to stop down zooms as well to get decent sharpness and reduce halo..." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:39:23.410" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="17612" PostId="11549" Text="@Rowland, I just exported the same image as 95, 99, and 100. The three files are exactly the same size, down to the byte. An image level comparison in photoshop (pixel subtraction) shows exactly the same image between all three. 92 is noticeably different, ditto 80, 50 and 0. I'd be willing to bet the three files are byte for byte the same excluding the render date meta data." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:47:47.567" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17613" PostId="11593" Score="1" Text="+1 It should **specifically** be pointed out that photoediting is best done on an IPS monitor and most serious photoeditors would agree." CreationDate="2011-05-03T20:47:48.037" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="17614" PostId="11591" Score="1" Text="It sounds like your 18-55mm lens was broken. " CreationDate="2011-05-03T21:07:36.357" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="17616" PostId="11583" Text="It's an interesting question in general, but please see http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/should-we-allow-questions-about-unreleased-cameras" CreationDate="2011-05-03T21:48:59.110" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17617" PostId="11539" Text="I respectfully disagree, none of them look natural to me.  I'm not saying they are not good images generally, and the people in them would be glad to have them - the last is very dramatic, and as you say the flash causes separation in others.  But it's exactly that un-natural separation that bothers me in images and why I avoid flash myself, because you can achieve similar separation with ambient light, depth of field and some increases in contract between subject and background in something like Viveza which uses the light that is present and keeps color balance the same across the image." CreationDate="2011-05-03T21:53:09.983" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17618" PostId="11551" Score="1" Text="Had a play last night, and I can't believe I didn't know about (notice) the exposure meter in the viewfinder! It makes life so much easier! Thanks" CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:19:58.323" UserId="4990" />
  <row Id="17619" PostId="11603" Score="1" Text="You can do the same thing using Canon's EOS Utility. I haven't tested whether you can physically hold the camera and take pictures that way, but I know you can take pictures using the software itself, recording all images directly to the computer." CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:33:11.563" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17621" PostId="11539" Text="I think we're just arguing two different schools of thought here." CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:42:15.573" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17622" PostId="11583" Text="I flagged this as off-topic. The FAQ says that this site is not about [unreleased equipment](http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/130/should-we-allow-questions-about-unreleased-cameras)." CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:51:25.363" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="17623" PostId="11596" Text="@Scott I'm unsure how your question relates to your problem: first you duplicate the layer, then merge after which you would like to unsharp. Don't you have just one layer after the merge?" CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:53:54.237" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17624" PostId="11603" Score="2" Text="Yes, it is possible to record HD video in tethered mode via Canon's EOS Utility..." CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:12:02.473" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17625" PostId="11596" Text="While I do think that the question is 'more-or-less' on topic, I have the same question at @koiyu... From your description it seems like you perform a merge operation and thus it does not need to affect multiple layers?" CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:18:03.900" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17626" PostId="11583" Score="3" Text="I voted to close because the question either forces speculation about unreleased products, or if the question is changed to address GPS in dSLRs *right now* it becomes a duplicate of the question @ieure cited..." CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:31:46.863" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17627" PostId="11605" Text="I suggest a quick look at the manual. Or a [quick google search](http://www.google.com.ar/search?hl=es&amp;q=Sony+Cybershot+7.2MP+manual+exposure)." CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:54:19.317" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17628" PostId="11606" Score="3" Text="You are right that we are missing a model number but your assumption is wrong. It is frequently the case that older models had more exposure controls than newer ones. Yes, it feels backwards but I know that Sony, Canon, Pentax and Casio have all done it. The Canon A-series started with full-manual controls (P/A/S/M modes), lost the A &amp; S modes a few years ago and now most models are only left with Automatic modes." CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:17:57.557" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17629" PostId="11606" Text="Learnin' new stuff here! :-) Hopefully the OP will update his question with a model number so I can remove the speculation in my answer..." CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:23:26.177" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17630" PostId="11605" Score="2" Text="Sooo... Can you give us a specific model number to go on?" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:24:26.300" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17631" PostId="11596" Score="3" Text="My personal opinion here is that this will not do well on either Graphic Design nor Super User...those crowds don't usually do much in the way of sharpening. At least, not as much as we photographers do. It IS a photoshop question, but as far as I can tell, it is also directly related to photography post processing. I think the question belongs here, rather than elsewhere." CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:29:22.533" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17632" PostId="11605" Text="I don't have the camera with me &gt;.&lt;  Give me a couple hours until I get home to find out.  Sorry for the inconvenience!" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:31:09.207" UserId="2892" />
  <row Id="17633" PostId="11583" Text="I've closed this as a duplicate of the question @ieure linked, given that there *are* indeed cameras on the market that have built-in GPS, and speculative equipment recommendations are off-topic." CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:36:07.800" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17634" PostId="11576" Text="And the matt-mind has returned! +1, great answer." CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:39:05.330" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17635" PostId="11609" Text="That's a little above the price range I was looking at, but it sure is impressive! Actually Canon's one of the few brands I've seen some ok cheap cameras from, but the best among them was an older model (can't remember it right off) that may be discontinued now..." CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:47:57.180" UserId="5007" />
  <row Id="17636" PostId="11596" Text="As much as I love to close stuff as off topic, I agree with @jrista and @ElendilTheTall on this one. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:48:17.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17637" PostId="11597" Text="wow. sweet stuff" CreationDate="2011-05-04T01:43:48.803" UserId="4988" />
  <row Id="17638" PostId="11606" Text="@Itai Is this the market segmentation idea you were talking about on your blog?" CreationDate="2011-05-04T01:58:06.777" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17639" PostId="11613" Score="1" Text="Welcome to the site, Ozzy. We've got a couple of questions already that cover this ground pretty closely. Specifically: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3338/, but also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11338/ and a few others under the &quot;crop-factor&quot; tag: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/crop-factor. Does any of that help, or does it only add to the confusion even more?" CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:28:48.967" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17640" PostId="11612" Text="Not really sure what you are asking, however if it is related to hand-drawn images, that is off-topic here. Oddly, the search you linked references this question itself as the first result...and the rest seemed rather random...so I am not sure exactly what the subject of the question is." CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:42:11.683" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17642" PostId="11615" Text="thank you for the links, helped out alot :) so now that i got this out of the way... i just have to get used to shooting a 50mm prime O_O or might just get a 30mm 1.4 sigma XD" CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:46:17.120" UserId="5011" />
  <row Id="17643" PostId="11539" Score="2" Text="@Kendall: I think your missing the point. Its NOT about &quot;looking natural&quot;...its about &quot;looking good&quot; and &quot;being professional&quot;. That is the entire point of the original question as well, and I think Matt Grum's photos demonstrate the point superbly well. Even though they were shot with flash, and a photographer can tell as much just by glancing at them...it does not change the fact that the photos look great! (Keep in mind, the first one is an example of &quot;bad&quot; flash use, to contrast with all the rest). (cont...)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:49:00.273" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17644" PostId="11615" Text="Cool, glad to help. So _now_, you want http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1104/ and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6166/ :)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:49:32.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17645" PostId="11539" Score="2" Text="... I think your comments here in particular highlight @rfusca's point about personal style...you can't disqualify flash in general because such photos don't look good to ***you***...and in all of your comments, you make it very clear that it is *you* judging in bias, rather than discussing in general. Grum's photos are superb...you can't deny that simply because it doesn't fit your personal mold, and that is exactly the point that should be made in response to the question being asked. Color balance is only one element of photography, and probably not the most important at that." CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:51:57.277" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17646" PostId="11597" Text="Fantastic examples! You are a true flash-foo master!" CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:57:06.413" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17647" PostId="11606" Text="@Billare - IIRC among almost 6 years of posts, yes ;) Removing lesser used features forces the minority requiring more to a higher-priced bracket. Sometimes an intermediate bracket is introduced to capture people seeking more advanced features but not able to reach the next bracket. Think of the segment taken by the EOS 7D between the xxD and 5D series." CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:03:33.653" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17648" PostId="11618" Text="+1 you beat me to it by seconds... :)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:03:53.133" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17649" PostId="11616" Text="This was my favourite &quot;simple&quot; explanation for the whole crop factor thing.&#xA;&#xA;I like that you worded it &quot;captures less&quot;. I feel like this is the most layman's way of putting it. That a 50mm is the same focal length regardless, but on APS-C and so on, it captures less." CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:17:06.910" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17650" PostId="11605" Text="Ok, it is the Cybershot DSC-W55" CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:37:34.367" UserId="2892" />
  <row Id="17651" PostId="11605" Text="Yeah, it looks like it isn't possible from this link.. http://www.flickr.com/groups/353670@N21/discuss/72157604369985582/" CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:44:23.257" UserId="2892" />
  <row Id="17652" PostId="11539" Text="It is all about style. He has one style; I have another.  But to claim the images look natural is wrong, when you have a woman who looks normal and the room behind her (and highlights on her shoulder) is entirely yellow.  That might be a striking photo.  It may be professional for some definitions of professional.  But it is not natural.  For some (including myself) a &quot;professional&quot; image is one that is as natural as it can be, because I feel like the un-natural elements distract from the subject or overall beauty of the image.  I'll let my point rest on that." CreationDate="2011-05-04T05:13:01.997" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="17653" PostId="11568" Score="1" Text="Higher shutter speeds will indeed guarantee sharpness, but the reason I'm objecting is that sometimes 1/60 is too fast (missing an opportunity is worse than getting some blur in the image) and sometimes it's simply not fast enough (using anything over 75mm really) which is why I find that this rule needs more explanation, otherwise it can be counterproductive..." CreationDate="2011-05-04T05:56:57.243" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="17654" PostId="11597" Score="2" Text="For what its worth, I'm pretty sure the woman dancing with her hair flinging is an example of a photo you'd have a crazy hard time taking without flash.  Stopping fast motion indoors in low light and not with the time to grab 27 reflectors and redirect enough light." CreationDate="2011-05-04T06:01:34.493" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17655" PostId="10469" Text="I don't think this behaviour is specific to Canon. My Pentax K-5 behaves exactly the same in Av mode where the scene is metered as if a flash is not present and flash is only used to provide fill." CreationDate="2011-05-04T06:19:09.150" UserId="2528" />
  <row Id="17656" PostId="10941" Text="I wonder if there's a badge for having the accepted answer that no one else has voted for? I've come back to this question many times since asking it, and this one really resonates with me. It answers the asked and unasked question very well." CreationDate="2011-05-04T06:53:57.723" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17657" PostId="11612" Score="1" Text="I think Joel used Balsamiq (http://balsamiq.com/) or something similar." CreationDate="2011-05-04T08:52:22.613" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="17658" PostId="11529" Score="2" Text="Most (not all, but most) of the slide duplicators I've seen had a built-in (and rather substantial) diffuser plate. And I remember seeing clamshell &quot;slide mounts&quot; for the typical six-frame 35mm negative strips in the Olde Tymes -- a well-stocked and long-standing outfit like B&amp;H or Adorama might just have a specimen or two lying about in a back room somewhere they'd be willing to let go of for a price." CreationDate="2011-05-04T10:03:44.573" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="17659" PostId="10936" Text="I've heard 'fine' art used to distinguish it from other arts, such as literature, language, etc. As to whether art must be beautiful, I disagree. Even accounting for variety in taste, as beauty is a subjective concept, there is plenty of fine art that is created with anything but beauty in mind. The whole genre of shock art is an example. Photographs can be fine art with no attempt at capturing a beautiful image. I think the distinction that others have drawn about reportage vs art is more significant than beauty." CreationDate="2011-05-04T10:03:50.120" UserId="4339" />
  <row Id="17660" PostId="11309" Text="@labnut I have not tried dpreview forums but I got some really good advice just creating a facebook group of friends that are into photography. Some really do hardcore research. Thanks again for your help" CreationDate="2011-05-04T10:14:10.840" UserId="4881" />
  <row Id="17661" PostId="11341" Text="Thanks for the description. I'd never considered the crop factor in these terms. I'd also never considered what &quot;digital zoom&quot; is actually doing. This is probably the best justification for getting a full frame I've read. +1" CreationDate="2011-05-04T10:40:29.280" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="17662" PostId="11349" Text="Thanks for the added bit of info regarding macro photography. It added to what mattdm has said. +1" CreationDate="2011-05-04T10:45:51.423" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="17663" PostId="11341" Text="@Mike: yeah, there's pretty much no _real_ downside to a full frame camera except for size, weight, and cost. (See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3986/aps-c-vs-full-frame-why-should-i-care for more....)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:06:02.300" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17664" PostId="11566" Text="Now it's corrected, thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:09:26.920" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="17665" PostId="11613" Text="And also, also see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/380/what-is-the-difference-between-ef-and-ef-s-lenses" CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:14:12.873" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17666" PostId="11566" Text="Hmmm, I don't think so. The amount of light is less in that the area covered is smaller, but the exposure _for a given area_ is unaffected. (If you take a full frame shot and crop out the middle portion and blow it up, you don't have to increase the brightness to compensate.) Assuming equivalent print sizes and criteria for sharpness, though, it _does_ affect depth of field, which can impact background blur." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:18:32.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17667" PostId="11566" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7800/ on the first point, and http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10079/ on the second." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:20:00.970" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17668" PostId="11568" Text="On &quot;Rule #0&quot; — some cameras have the ability to choose which settings persist across power-off and which are reset. For this exact reason, I make ISO go back to a safe Auto range on restart." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:22:14.383" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17670" PostId="11566" Text="Sensor area by itself would indeed have that effect, but there is also the difference in pixel sizes - devices with smaller sensors frequently also have far more pixels crammed into that area, while it is technically true that this does not affect exposure, it is also true that as each pixel has a much harder time gathering enough light, the quality of each stated ISO level suffers a great deal. To get an equivalent print at the same quality, you may well have to compare and image at ISO 100 to one at ISO 800 or more... I would say that this affects your exposure settings..." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:29:32.153" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="17671" PostId="11566" Text="on the second point, I was thinking about the character of the blur, not the depth of field, might want to clarify that further when I have more time." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:37:34.173" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="17672" PostId="11566" Text="That's different from exposure, though. In fact, _because_ it is different from exposure, if you change the ISO to 100 on APS-C from 800, you'll have to also change shutter speed or aperture, in order to _not_ change how the image is exposed." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:38:15.453" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17673" PostId="11566" Text="Additionally, at least at this point in development, high-ISO noise levels are more dependent on individual technology than they are on sensor size. Larger has an advantage, but so does newer (and so does more expensive). It'll be awhile before that levels out, at which point larger sensors will have a definite advantage — but also by then, I expect overall noise to be so low that it's a non-issue for most situations." CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:39:01.507" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17674" PostId="11548" Text="If you decide to experiment with other modes, you may want to check this other question too - http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6161/when-to-use-shutter-priority-instead-of-aperture-priority" CreationDate="2011-05-04T12:54:23.307" UserId="46" />
  <row Id="17675" PostId="11486" Text="A colour tile with red, green and blue tiles might be even better than a grey card if you go that path." CreationDate="2011-05-04T13:10:38.137" UserId="4967" />
  <row Id="17676" PostId="11539" Text="@Kendall I've shot plenty of non flash photos that by your definition look &quot;unnatural&quot; due to foreground/background colour shift, this cabn be due to your subject standing in the sun against a shady background, light reflecting off a strongly coloured surface, or mixing sunlight and continuous fluorescent/incandescent lighting. Further you can avoid the shift by gelling the flash as you suggest. I used to do that but stopped as to me warm backgrounds look better." CreationDate="2011-05-04T13:10:40.647" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17677" PostId="10941" Text="Two, actually: &quot;Tenacious&quot; and &quot;Unsung Hero&quot; -- though I don't think I'm anywhere close to qualifying for either." CreationDate="2011-05-04T13:18:57.583" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17678" PostId="11620" Text="This isn't really an answer, but Google around for some of the video's showing when the SmugMug guys decide to do one of their pano's - its quite impressive." CreationDate="2011-05-04T13:31:48.927" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17679" PostId="11622" Text="Along the same lines, the color balance should also be set manually, especially if you're shooting JPEG (as opposed to raw)." CreationDate="2011-05-04T13:40:33.797" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17681" PostId="11630" Score="4" Text="There is no possible way that we could answer what the best lenses are for three different lenses without knowing a million more questions.  I'm voting to close this. Two options as far as I'm concerned, with the second being highly favored.  1.  Ask about each lens individually, and tell us what you want to use it for and your budget.  2.  Ask a question about each about *HOW* to pick those lenses - what factors to consider, what the options are, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:13:04.913" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17682" PostId="11622" Score="2" Text="I used to subscribe to the &quot;use manual exposure for panoramas&quot; view, but that was back when I was assembling them manually. Now the automated panorama tools are really good at seamlessly blending colour and exposure changes I just use auto-exposure and shoot lots of overlap and let the software deal with it. An advantage of this approach is you don't run out of dynamic range as easily if your pano is light on one side and dark on the other..." CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:13:07.263" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17683" PostId="11622" Text="Interesting. I'm still using CS2 - forget about auto color correction there. I understand the newer versions are light years ahead though." CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:43:19.960" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17684" PostId="11633" Score="1" Text="I'll add the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 to that list.  You could also grab some primes, 30mm, 50mm,85mm, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:57:19.960" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17685" PostId="11638" Score="3" Text="This might be better at http://webapps.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-05-04T15:35:39.720" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17686" PostId="11568" Text="I'm been able to take decent shots with a shutter speed as low as 1/10 with vibration reduction/image stabilization if I remember relax, breath slowly, hold the camera close to my body and limit my coffee intake." CreationDate="2011-05-04T15:39:46.923" UserId="3444" />
  <row Id="17687" PostId="11620" Text="See http://www.warszawa360.pl/about.html for how to do it from one spot. The camera is basically mounted on a rotating pole so the camera can see 360-degrees around." CreationDate="2011-05-04T15:51:59.290" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17688" PostId="11436" Score="1" Text="@cmason, please improve your answer admitting the low-power flash during exposure or provide proof that it CAN be switched off completely" CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:21:07.247" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17690" PostId="11641" Score="2" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2221/ — although the question is vague, there are some good answers." CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:45:47.390" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17691" PostId="11642" Score="4" Text="You're wi-fi adapter should be able to handle more than one connection at once. You can surf the web and transfer photos at the same time, for example." CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:52:53.723" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17692" PostId="11643" Text="Thanks for the link. However, after reading some of that I'm wondering if something like a +80mm f/1.8 would be better for my needs than a 55mm since I have a smaller sensor." CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:53:21.693" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="17693" PostId="11643" Score="2" Text="That's a fine portrait lens, but you're going to have to be even further away from your subject, so you'll have to decide if that's a problem for you or not. (BTW, since your friend has the 50/1.8, maybe you can borrow it to try on your camera? You can assess the depth-of-field, the perspective and working distance, etc.)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:55:35.017" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17694" PostId="11641" Score="1" Text="Also - http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5493/how-can-i-get-dramatic-shallow-dof-with-a-kit-lens &amp; http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6710/what-am-i-doing-wrong-that-i-can-not-get-a-shallow-dof-effect &amp; http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2/how-can-i-maximise-that-blurry-backround-sharp-subject-bokeh-effect &amp; http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9624/what-exactly-determines-depth-of-field" CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:56:53.083" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17695" PostId="11643" Score="1" Text="doh, the info provided here is great, but I should just go borrow it!" CreationDate="2011-05-04T16:57:28.710" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="17696" PostId="11641" Score="2" Text="I think its important here to note that it seems your definition of &quot;better portrait photos&quot; appears to really mean &quot;shallower DoF&quot;. LOTS of other things can make portraits good and bad." CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:02:22.860" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17697" PostId="11642" Score="1" Text="&lt;slaps self&gt; I mean your not you're!" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:04:25.427" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17698" PostId="11591" Text="Not really broken but similar to what I see with other kit-lenses. I'd say the Pentax is a little sharper than average but vignettes more and stopping down has little effect on that near wide-angle. Maybe I could have sent it for warranty service saying it vignettes too much." CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:05:03.647" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17699" PostId="11642" Text="Wi-Fi has a *lot* more bandwidth that Bluetooth, so even when it's &quot;busy&quot;, it will usually have more bandwidth available than Bluetooth has total (BT=1 Mbps, 802.11g = 54 Mbps)." CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:23:28.053" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17700" PostId="11642" Text="Maybe the laptop is connected to a WiFi network that requires a password, and the Eye-Fi card is not configured to join that network?" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:29:41.697" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17701" PostId="11642" Text="AGAIN, this is my situation.  I know that Wi-Fi is typically a better solution and that it has more bandwidth.  I'm still interested in Bluetooth.  @ElendilTheTall Do you know how to do this?  I was under the impression that most operating systems out of the box can only connect to one wireless network per wireless adapter (and I only have one)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:33:46.433" UserId="5024" />
  <row Id="17702" PostId="782" Text="@Dave, @Marc -- this seems like just one question to me. " CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:35:42.593" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17703" PostId="11642" Score="1" Text="You configure the EyeFi to connect to the same network as your laptop." CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:36:38.287" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17704" PostId="11642" Text="@Imre That involves using the computer to configure the card for each network you want to use, right? I can see BT being a more convenient solution for some people. I think it's a reasonable question, even if the answer is that no such camera exists." CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:40:12.107" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17705" PostId="11642" Score="1" Text="@Imre My laptop will be connected to a public or tethered network that the camera cannot connect to" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:45:09.993" UserId="5024" />
  <row Id="17706" PostId="11642" Text="Also: The WiFi network could use MAC address filtering that prevents the Eye-Fi from connecting, or the WiFi network could be a &quot;pay-to-use&quot; network that he doesn't want to pay twice for (or that he can't connect to without a web browser). (Yep, he just confirmed that something like this is the case.)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:46:42.567" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17707" PostId="3992" Text="@Matt - looking at the two images, it looks like both have an identical perspective (i.e, shot from the same point) and hence same FoV (as far as I can tell, all the elements in the frames have the same size). However, you mention the same lens on both bodies. How come?" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:48:27.307" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17708" PostId="11652" Text="Good idea.  That would free me up to use any camera with an SD card." CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:55:25.893" UserId="5024" />
  <row Id="17709" PostId="11642" Text="What wi-fi network will you be connecting to? Eye-Fi Pro X2 cards can connect through AT&amp;T public access points (Starbucks etc). And the Mobile X2 uploads direct to iOS or Android devices without the need for a wi-fi network, if that helps." CreationDate="2011-05-04T18:20:57.623" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17710" PostId="11654" Text="+1 for &quot;for mattdm&quot;. Though it should probably get edited out." CreationDate="2011-05-04T18:23:59.950" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17711" PostId="11607" Score="1" Text="In my opinion, almost everything produced today is of higher quality then the P72 that you have.  I am very familiar with that model, and it wasn't even above average in its day.  FYI it is from 2003, so if you picked it up 5-6 years ago, it was already old.&#xA;If you are testing out these models in the store and assume bad CCD, optics and firmware from observations made at that time, I think you should take one home and use it instead." CreationDate="2011-05-04T18:24:38.497" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17713" PostId="11637" Text="On APS-C, I would argue that the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS is better then the &quot;L&quot; designation.  " CreationDate="2011-05-04T18:32:54.373" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17714" PostId="11654" Score="1" Text="I hereby dub @JayLancePhotography as &quot;Alex Trebek&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-04T18:35:27.320" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17716" PostId="11659" Text="Can you elaborate, apart from the link?  Dropping a link in an answer without further explanation is discouraged around here." CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:09:49.193" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17717" PostId="11620" Text="Not only is the time of day important (sunrise or sunset) but also the season. Spring and fall have more pleasing light, fall being my personal preference. Summer is too harsh. " CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:12:39.410" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17718" PostId="11662" Score="1" Text="This is something I've been trying to work on, backing up and getting more of the story.  Its so easy to focus on just the face and then when you end up with 50 photos of faces in post, you look back and think &quot;arg! Why didn't I give it some context!?...&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:17:15.880" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17719" PostId="11659" Text="Sorry. Just a stab in the dark. Though the information there would be of interest. I was aware of the golden section, golden mean and wondered if it somehow related to your question so I stumbled across this article. Why exactly is dropping links discouraged &quot;around here&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:17:58.723" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17720" PostId="11659" Score="1" Text="If the link dies, so does the information.  Its a major problem all over the internet - dead links.  If you summarize the information, then provide a link - at least the &quot;gist&quot; of the information lives on here." CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:19:23.083" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17721" PostId="11638" Score="2" Text="@mattdm yes and no - no stackexchange site can change the Flickr file size restrictions (15 MB for free, 20 MB for pro [(source)](http://www.flickr.com/help/limits/#28)). I think the real meat of this question is how to reduce the file size of the photos from &gt;15 to &lt;15." CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:48:45.040" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17722" PostId="11659" Text="Hm. I am confused. There are links in many post on this forum. I though &quot;Fibonacci spiral&quot; was the key piece of information that you could further research.  This seems perfectly fine on other SE sites. " CreationDate="2011-05-04T19:54:32.853" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17723" PostId="11645" Text="Don't just resize by 25% as you may lose resolution! Rather, resize it to the maximum Flickr allowable size of 1024 pixels on the long side. And, as @Henry Jackson mentioned, save it as JPEG." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:03:43.813" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17724" PostId="11664" Score="3" Text="I've read a few articles where this is described (left to right, top to bottom) I wonder if it is true for left-handed people or those in other cultures where they read right to left - top to bottom. If not should an image be composed differently?  (http://www.my-photography-tips.com/composition.html)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:04:06.097" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="17725" PostId="11664" Text="As a lefty, I can say it does feel more natural (for me at least) for a lateral leading line to come from the left of the frame. Not sure about right to left readers though. Be aware that leading lines can also lead more or less straight into the frame as well, they don't necessarily have to come from one direction." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:07:38.880" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17726" PostId="11645" Score="1" Text="@ysap Flickr does not have a maximum dimension limit.  Although only pro accounts can access full-size images, there is no limit to the dimension of images uploaded." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:08:06.570" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="17727" PostId="11645" Text="@ahockley - for free account, the images are resized to at-most the max res and you don't have access to the source. Effectively, you can have the same result resizing yourself before uploading." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:10:39.657" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17728" PostId="11659" Score="4" Text="@Jakub - I'm not saying links aren't good, I'm saying links without anything else significant aren't good. Summarizing what Fibonacci spiral is and how/if its relevant is what the questioner would really want to know - not just a seemingly random word with a question mark.  Dropping links without any explanation is not fine on other SE sites - it may be more prevalent, but that doesn't make it right." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:11:15.583" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17729" PostId="11664" Score="1" Text="I would argue that the typical non-Hebrew, non-Arabic, non-Mandarin eye will go from left to right.  Those other cultures read in a different direction, so they could approach the image from a different direction." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:11:26.857" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="17730" PostId="11660" Score="1" Text="Another area where catchlights are considered desirable are in wildlife photos. There are contraptions you can put on your flash to project a catchlight on the eyes of a distant wildlife subject." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:11:58.763" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17731" PostId="11623" Text="Actually, RAW files aren't images but more something like data files. They contain the raw and unprocessed output of the sensor in your camera." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:39:30.260" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="17732" PostId="11673" Score="2" Text="Adapters have no chance of improving image quality since more glass is prone to adding its own layer of aberrations, distortions, flare and softness." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:39:44.127" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17733" PostId="11669" Text="@Lars - welcome to the site. The bridge photo is great (where is this, BTW?). The church is good too, but did you consider perspective correction in post-processing? I thinks it will dramatically improve this image and make it great too." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:44:33.060" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17734" PostId="11645" Score="3" Text="@ysap though if one desires to upgrade to the Pro account later, the originals would be in their full (original) size without the need of a re-upload. But if someone is quite sure he/she isn't going to upgrade or if the uploaded collection is small, I agree with you." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:48:55.300" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17735" PostId="11673" Score="2" Text="Depends on what you mean by 'improving image quality'.  If he wants to take a wide angle image, then it could be considered an improvement to add that piece of glass if it gives him that capability." CreationDate="2011-05-04T20:57:23.620" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="17736" PostId="11670" Score="1" Text="+1 for the nice subject... less for the example itself. Does not quite work for me." CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:11:50.283" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17738" PostId="11669" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the welcome. :) The bridge is way up north in Norway. It's geotagged, and you can see the exact location via the Flickr location information. I haven't cropped the church image, mainly because I just kind of like it...not to say that it can't be improved. When it comes to post processing I'm lazy and I try to make as few &quot;mistakes&quot; in the field as possible, learning from the mistakes I do rather than correcting them in post process.  " CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:46:03.130" UserId="5029" />
  <row Id="17739" PostId="11675" Score="2" Text="Related info on this in the answers to an earlier question: [Why does JPEG quality go up to twelve?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11544/why-does-jpeg-quality-go-up-to-twelve)" CreationDate="2011-05-04T21:48:55.623" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17740" PostId="11669" Text="@Lars - I did not mean to crop, what I meant is to use the perspective correction tool in your image processing software to correct the slanted walls. In GIMP, it will be Tools&gt;Transform&gt;Perspective (or Shift+P). Use corrective mode and set the guide polygon to be parallel to the pillars." CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:04:16.003" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17741" PostId="3992" Text="@ysap it was a zoom lens, I used two different focal lengths to achieve the same field of view" CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:05:32.443" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17742" PostId="3992" Text="@Matt - ok, that explains it (but it is not quite the same lens per-se?). It would be nice also to demonstrate how you can get the same DoF with a smaller aperture on the FF." CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:09:13.470" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17743" PostId="11636" Score="1" Text="No, the reticule markings are provided by an LCD placed just above the focusing screen. Both Nikon and Cannon make DSLRs where the screen can be replaced without damage to or loss of the LCD reticule and other in-viewfinder displays." CreationDate="2011-05-04T22:53:41.683" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17744" PostId="11647" Score="1" Text="I don't think the method of uploading files is the problem, it's Flickr's 15 MB limit." CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:05:14.480" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="17745" PostId="11636" Score="1" Text="@RBerteig - Apparently, you are correct. My bad." CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:10:39.183" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17746" PostId="11636" Text="I researched this shortly after buying a Nikon D70s, but never got around to buying the replacement screen. I'm toying with it again for my D90, but still haven't bothered. Nikon at least sells a couple of different screen options, and there are third parties as well." CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:14:10.213" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17747" PostId="11632" Score="2" Text="I replaced my focus screen in my old T2i with a split-prism and it was significantly darker (in the already dark pentamirror finder).  Past f/5.6 it was nearly useless on most lenses but some are better than others." CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:24:50.033" UserId="217" />
  <row Id="17748" PostId="1933" Text="&quot;effective entrance pupil&quot; is called the Nodal Point." CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:33:05.427" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17749" PostId="11674" Score="4" Text="Actually, to be accurate, what you're describing is a *converter* or a *lens modifier*, not a *lens*. The distinction is that a lens projects light directly onto a medium (sensor, film, etc.), whereas a lens modifier alters the characteristics of an existing lens. Not to take away from what you've written, I just wanted to make sure we were using the correct terms so we're not confusing people..." CreationDate="2011-05-04T23:41:07.350" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17750" PostId="11654" Text="As a bonus question: When is it desirable to not leave headroom?" CreationDate="2011-05-05T00:59:15.160" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="17751" PostId="11638" Text="Well, the meat of the question is that _now_, after you've tastefully formed it into a hamburger with your edits. Not that there's anything wrong with that. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T01:57:19.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17752" PostId="11659" Text="Also, on this _particular_ link, please see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8965/what-is-the-golden-ratio-and-why-is-it-better-than-the-rule-of-thirds/9213#9213 (particularly, the second half of my answer there)." CreationDate="2011-05-05T02:06:01.050" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17753" PostId="11674" Text="Yea, I suppose that I agree.  B&amp;H calls it a lens, so I figured I was safe :-)  I do see that Canon calls it a converter." CreationDate="2011-05-05T02:29:31.187" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17754" PostId="11621" Score="1" Text="Somehow I doubt focusingscreen.com would be happy with us using their images." CreationDate="2011-05-05T02:31:08.250" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17755" PostId="11621" Text="@Evan Krall: they might not mind — it's an advertisement, after all. But we should remove them and just link, until someone asks and gets permission." CreationDate="2011-05-05T03:09:51.190" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17756" PostId="11527" Text="+1 for the harness suggestion. But how do I get it to hold still? :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T04:16:41.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17757" PostId="11341" Text="I did find another justification for getting an EOS1D - if you forget your hammer, you can use one of these to bang in your tent pegs. It's just that it makes for a _really_ expensive hammer that's all..." CreationDate="2011-05-05T04:56:12.670" UserId="3650" />
  <row Id="17758" PostId="11677" Score="3" Text="Welcome to the site. This question may have the information you are seeking for: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11438/where-to-start-with-photography&#xA;Also, take a look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/164/what-are-your-easiest-beginner-tips" CreationDate="2011-05-05T05:01:20.670" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17759" PostId="11677" Score="7" Text="Hi @user5037 and welcome to the site.  We're really a Q&amp;A site with a more targeted focus.  If you have a more specific question, we'd love to help but your question is awfully general.  Can you narrow it down a little bit more for us to help you better?  Check out http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/164/what-are-your-easiest-beginner-tips &amp; http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/4625/baby-and-kids-photos-how-do-i-manage-good-pics  for some general advice and some kid specific advice." CreationDate="2011-05-05T05:01:32.463" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17760" PostId="11666" Text="Are you by any chance mixing up [XS (1000D)](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_1000D) with [XTi (400D)](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_400D)? XS was released *after* [XSi (450D)](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_450D) and is a &quot;downgraded&quot; model. The DPReview article doesn't mention nor does provide a comparison to the XS." CreationDate="2011-05-05T05:20:59.670" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="17761" PostId="11677" Score="5" Text="Also, really no need to apologize for being a beginner or being unfamiliar with a subject. We were all beginners sometime." CreationDate="2011-05-05T05:39:50.653" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17762" PostId="1933" Text="@ysap, sorry, no it isn't. Although it is possible that the entrance pupil is located at the same spot, in general they are at different points. And in a fisheye, the entrance pupil moves with incident angle. One kind of optical system where the nodal points, principle points, and both pupils are all at the same position is a pinhole camera." CreationDate="2011-05-05T07:02:05.590" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17763" PostId="1933" Text="@RBerteig - interesting read. Everyday you learn a new thing. Some days you learn two ;-)  Assuming the definitions in Wikipedia are correct, then this ought to be one of the widely spread misconceptions in the art of pano photography!" CreationDate="2011-05-05T07:09:47.903" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17764" PostId="1933" Text="Pano is one of the dark arts of photography. Personally, I covet a quality fisheye and I'll probably never stitch anything again. Unfortunately the one I used on that trip had to return to its owner. One of the things I learned from carrying it is the same thing that Piotr observed in his answer. It is far more useful than you expect. I found that I was consciously *not* taking the standard tourist photos because it was more fun to make the shot I could take with it interesting than to change back to a normal lens. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T07:18:16.220" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17765" PostId="11467" Text="This whole answer assumes the lens is new enough to *have* contacts. From the description of the lens, I think it may not. This info should be added as a potential caveat, I think." CreationDate="2011-05-05T07:29:05.210" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="17766" PostId="11679" Score="1" Text="It will be storing three colours per pixel instead of 1. Raw files typically have one value either red green or blue per pixel as most sensors are monochrome devices. When you edit a file you typically have to interpolate the missing values. These interpolated values account for the 3x increase in filesize. Since DNG is based on TIFF I can't see the point of saving a three channel DNG instead of a TIFF! " CreationDate="2011-05-05T07:53:17.260" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17767" PostId="11679" Text="Ah. Well, I had never tried outputting TIFF files from DxO or Aperture. If it's saving the Interpolated image, the filesize would make sense. I guess they must be saving the TIFF in 16 bit color depth, too." CreationDate="2011-05-05T08:05:18.380" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="17768" PostId="11629" Text="Mattes are injection-moulded anyway, so I doubt that ease of manufacture plays any significant part :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T08:51:58.667" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="17769" PostId="11686" Text="The D3000 has been replaced with the D3100. I believe the price points are the same though." CreationDate="2011-05-05T09:36:54.860" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17770" PostId="11686" Text="Ah, typo, I did mean the 3100. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-05T09:50:03.570" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17771" PostId="11687" Text="Can you clarify the last part about converting in small size? I'm afraid I don't understand. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T10:29:00.597" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17772" PostId="11687" Text="i mean compress the video in small size, with may be some third party tool. like 4Gb video to 500Mb." CreationDate="2011-05-05T10:36:23.277" UserId="4923" />
  <row Id="17773" PostId="11631" Text="@If I open a CR2/NEF file in Adobe PS CS5, there is an option of Image size, where one can enter the new size(width,height,DPI) and it will resize the raw CR2/NEF image." CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:06:51.543" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="17774" PostId="11689" Score="2" Text="Many support TIFF, which also supported lossless compression. But then the question becomes &quot;Why don't most web browsers support TIFF?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:14:26.567" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17776" PostId="11688" Score="6" Text="Well, if you take a picture of the moon..." CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:25:38.403" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17777" PostId="11688" Score="7" Text="ask yourself: why do you geotag at all? and take it on from answer to that question." CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:27:22.930" UserId="1774" />
  <row Id="17778" PostId="11687" Text="I see — thanks. This is really off-topic here, where we deal with still photography. Questions about video mode as a feature of dSLR cameras are a gray area, but this question is really mostly about video. There's a proposal for a new Stack Exchange site dealing with film and video production — you may be interested in that. See http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production" CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:30:59.147" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17779" PostId="11688" Score="3" Text="Sooner or later you will find yourself geotagging photos automatically; one day you will get a GPS (or a phone with a GPS, or a camera with a GPS). Automatic geotagging will always be based on the location of the photographer. Therefore for consistency it might be best to do manual tagging in the same way." CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:38:20.347" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="17780" PostId="11688" Score="2" Text="Mart - I guess my problem is that sometimes I geotag because I want to know where something is, and sometimes because I'd like to know where the photo was taken from :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:45:04.120" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="17781" PostId="11687" Text="thank you for your kind response.." CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:48:00.887" UserId="4923" />
  <row Id="17782" PostId="11687" Text="You can get some ideas of the quality settings the files use from page 109 of the manual (http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17325/~/user%27s-manual---d5100---guide-to-digital-photography), which should help you some, although the answer will vary according to the contents of the video, because some things compress better than others." CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:50:58.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17783" PostId="4625" Text="This is also a good related question with some good answers (even if I do say so myself): http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6250/prime-lens-or-flash-which-upgrade-will-most-improve-baby-photos" CreationDate="2011-05-05T11:57:22.490" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17784" PostId="4630" Text="http://hyperboleandahalf.blogspot.com/2010/04/alot-is-better-than-you-at-everything.html — I'm envisioning a large quickly-moving beast frolicking with the children. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T12:13:17.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17785" PostId="4630" Text="Also, here's a story: My four-year old told me the other day &quot;Daddy, if you take my picture, I will bite you. So, if you don't want to be bitten, you should not take my picture.&quot; (Just matter of factly, just like that.) So I said: &quot;Okay, you can bite me.&quot; She was very taken aback to have her bluff called, and let me take her picture, and then when I stuck out my hand, she nibbled on it very, very gently." CreationDate="2011-05-05T12:24:56.187" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17786" PostId="4641" Text="I agree with you on built-in flash, but a good external flash with bounce (and better, wireless) will make a world of difference." CreationDate="2011-05-05T12:27:18.060" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17787" PostId="11436" Text="I have updated my answer to respond to @Imre request. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T12:56:20.013" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="17788" PostId="11435" Text="Are you using first-curtain or second-curtain flash?" CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:06:24.377" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="17789" PostId="11690" Score="3" Text="The .png would almost certainly be bigger than the raw as the png would have to store three colour values per pixel instead of one raw sample, so for an 8bit png that's 24 bits per pixel vs. 12 or 14 bpp for the raw. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:12:52.687" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17790" PostId="11690" Text="@Matt I wasn't sure whether it would be bigger or not and can't currently test. Obviously there's correlations of RGB values from one pixel to the next, since the values came from demosaicing, and the PNG compression may be able to exploit those correlations. And raw compression varies; some Pentax DSLRs didn't compress DNG raw output at all. So I didn't consider &quot;which is bigger&quot; to be a question I could answer just by thinking, and not measuring. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:20:20.990" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17791" PostId="11689" Score="2" Text="You prefer PNG to JPG for photography?  I have not seen an argument for that before." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:27:16.853" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17792" PostId="11690" Text="PNG, being lossless, however doesn't suffer from generational loss as a result of editing in the same manner that JPEG does. So, in that aspect, I don't think it's any worse than JPEG in camera." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:28:41.727" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17793" PostId="11690" Score="3" Text="@John But it is worse than raw, which is what you should be using for editing. PNG just seems like an unhappy medium between JPEG and raw." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:31:10.820" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17794" PostId="11691" Text="I've heard (literally, in a podcast) that the new Nikon D5100 has built-in HDR function. Whether this can be changed from its default settings, I don't know." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:35:18.277" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="17795" PostId="11690" Score="5" Text="@Matt As the PNG does use compression (too), the result does not have to be bigger at all (depends on algorithms). To put it to you in a question: if you convert an ASCII-file (8 bit per character) to a UTF16-file, should a compressed result become significantly bigger?&#xA;&#xA;If you answer that with &quot;yes&quot;, please re-read compression-algorithms." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:42:35.167" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17796" PostId="11696" Score="4" Text="+1 Never realized that there was no standardized EXIF embedding for PNG. Good to know." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:43:53.097" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17797" PostId="11690" Text="@coneslayer The only no-revertable conversion that really has to be done is demosaicing. Denoising, further white-balance, sharpening could all be done in postprocessing (as for RAW). You will not lose bit depth if you save as 16 bit per channel PNG (as you would not with TIFF)." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:50:21.483" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17798" PostId="11690" Score="1" Text="@Leonidas You are correct, but I would expect that anyone asking for PNG output (instead of raw) will expect the result to be immediately usable out of camera, which means you want things like sharpening to mitigate the antialiasing filter and probably noise reduction. Not technically necessary, but if your PNG files *require* further editing, then, again, I don't see the benefit over raw." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:53:18.703" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17799" PostId="11696" Score="4" Text="Most likely reason. Metadata is nice." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:54:54.803" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17800" PostId="11690" Score="1" Text="@coneslayer I guess that Benjanmin has the same problem I had/have when reworking pictures: (1) JPG already lost some picture data and (2a) RAW is proprietary (software only available now for some time), (2b) not every camera offers RAW. Several years ago I too desperately wished for TIFF or PNG in my compact." CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:59:07.093" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17801" PostId="11690" Text="@Leonidas Regarding #1/#2a, since raw software is available now, you can shoot raw, and immediately develop to PNG for long-term archiving. Plus you have the raw file, so as long as the raw software exists, you have perfect information. I don't understand #2b. Not every camera offers raw, but neither do they offer PNG. If we're making wishes, I'd wish for raw, not PNG." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:06:41.197" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17802" PostId="11690" Text="@Lionidas PNG has the potential to use compression yes, but the compression would have to be unbelievably clever to be able to exploit the correlations between colour channels that arise from demosaicing  as it would effectively have to reverse engineer the demosaicing algorithm which is usually proprietary). It's nothing like the padding you get converting to UTF-16. The only way I could see the PNG version not being bigger was if the camera used the most naive demosaicing algorithm ever, which simply duplicated adjacent pixels to fill the gaps." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:12:36.213" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17803" PostId="11690" Text="@coneslayer - Never said it was a good option, I just noted that you can do lossless on PNG versus JPEG, so the issues of in-camera development equally apply to it and JPEG." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:14:41.903" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17804" PostId="11690" Text="@Matt PNG only uses the pretty dumb ZIP (and this won't be changed anymore) and so surely won't be smaller. But. By demosaicing you don't *add* any information, so if you use clever compression algorithms (LZMA e.g.), the compressed results will be identical in size for pre-/post-demosaicing." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:17:15.293" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17805" PostId="11690" Text="@Lionidas Yes, from a theoretical point of view demosaicing doesn't add information and thus compressing the demosiaced image will give the same filesize, but in practice the demosiacing process will introduce rounding errors i.e. noise, which is uncompressable." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:26:17.160" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17806" PostId="11695" Text="Good answer, Guffa. I usually geotag with the location of the main subject of the photo and not the location the picture was taken from." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:28:20.763" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="17807" PostId="11690" Text="@coneslayer I speak from experience - back in 2003 I rather wished for a method to save the images lossless in a known and supported format instead of another darn proprietary format, group-called RAW. PNG was a bit more appealing, as TIFF has some problems here and there." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:29:05.973" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17808" PostId="11694" Score="3" Text="One point to note here, there is no &quot;the RAW format&quot;. So if Benjamin wished for a standard, he would have to convert his RAW to DNG." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:31:34.630" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17809" PostId="11691" Text="@gerikson — I've only loosely followed the Nikon D5100. It looks like a _very_ nice camera. It's quite a bit more expensive than the Pentax K-r, though — currently €650 at amazon.de, without a kit lens, and over €1000 in a kit comparable to the Pentax one. I'm a Pentax user but am happy to recommend other brands; in this case, though, trying to stick to the given budget ruled that one out." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:34:22.633" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17810" PostId="11690" Text="Anyway in summary you might get smaller files with 8bit PNGs but you are throwing away data, and if you do that you might as well shoot JPEG and get better compression ratios. You wont get smaller files with 16bit PNGs as the demosaicing process is not reversible by image compression." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:36:13.843" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17811" PostId="11435" Text="I've been using first-curtain" CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:36:22.350" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17812" PostId="11690" Text="@Matt The variance that causes the noise does stem from the RAW data itself. I still fail to see why several discrete pixels-values should be better compressable than a functional transformation of these values to another discrete version. Is there a highly random element in demosaicing?" CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:41:34.033" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17813" PostId="11698" Text="In regards to testing noise you should check out this question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11281/how-to-test-noise There's an excellent answer on there for testing noise." CreationDate="2011-05-05T14:50:54.513" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17814" PostId="11698" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10413/what-parameters-can-i-use-to-evaluate-a-perceptual-image-quality" CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:07:06.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17816" PostId="11690" Text="@Lionidas Demosaicing is deterministic but the best methods are nonlinear. If you take a discrete value, such as 4294967296, then that compresses well, it's 2^32, so you can use run length encoding or something even better. If you now raise it to the power 0.9 and round it you get 467373274 and suddenly it doesn't compress well any more! You can't even compress it by storing the constants 2,32 and 0.9 as that would technically be lossy compression, due to rounding errors the value we're trying to compress is not exactly equal to 2^32^0.9 " CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:19:35.887" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17817" PostId="11688" Score="5" Text="Another option is to only take macro photographs." CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:26:06.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17818" PostId="11696" Text="Just because the metadata isn't standardized, don't mean you cannot do it. PNG supports metadata to be added to the file, it just doesn't define [EXIF](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exchangeable_image_file_format) directly as part of the metadata. The metadata of a PNG file is &quot;freeform&quot; to a certain degree." CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:35:36.920" UserId="5055" />
  <row Id="17819" PostId="11696" Score="2" Text="[Wiki](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portable_network_graphic#Ancillary_chunks): iTXt contains UTF-8 text, compressed or not, with an optional language tag. iTXt chunk with the keyword 'XML:com.adobe.xmp' can contain [Extensible Metadata Platform (XMP).](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extensible_Metadata_Platform)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:38:20.957" UserId="5055" />
  <row Id="17820" PostId="11696" Text="This is another point for TIFF, by the way." CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:42:26.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17821" PostId="11659" Text="How is the spiral related to creating a path - are eyes expected to naturally move along the spiral? To me, it seems like the linked page is talking about placement of main points, not how (or if?) they would form a path for eye." CreationDate="2011-05-05T15:51:25.670" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="17822" PostId="11696" Text="@mattdm, sure it is. Just wanted to point out that it could technically be supported if the manufacturers wanted it to be :P" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:00:45.283" UserId="5055" />
  <row Id="17823" PostId="11702" Score="1" Text="I feel a lot of people can benefit from this information and I didn't find another question like it." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:07:15.723" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17824" PostId="11666" Text="XS = http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos1000d/&#xA;XSi = http://www.dpreview.com/news/0801/08012403canoneos450d.asp" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:08:31.043" UserId="5028" />
  <row Id="17825" PostId="11690" Text="In practice, PNG files are somewhere in between JPG which throw data out and RAW.  The PNG standard supports 16bit/channel images (as does TIFF), so you don't have to lose bit depth.  You will get better results compressing the raw data--which is potentially what a camera manufacturer would do.  NOTE: TIFF has _pluggable_ compression algorithms, one of which is JPEG compression.  Even a TIFF can throw out data." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:13:21.930" UserId="3631" />
  <row Id="17826" PostId="11702" Text="You're actually asking a few questions here, but I do recall a number of questions that have touched on this issue: http://photo.stackexchange.com/search?q=contract" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:17:05.940" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="17827" PostId="11694" Text="Yes, RAW just means the cameras internal format, and varies from camera to camera. I recently used a camera whose raw format involved two bytes per pixel and several thousand extra header/footer bytes (ugh)." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:20:28.513" UserId="2451" />
  <row Id="17828" PostId="11696" Score="4" Text="Lack of EXIF data would be &quot;seen as a negative&quot; by photographers? Bah! These young digital photographer whipper-snappers! In my day, photographers used film and knew what a negative really looked like! :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:25:23.563" UserId="160" />
  <row Id="17829" PostId="11690" Text="@Matt The only conclusion is that the demosaicing **does add** information to the picture by its transformation: the algorithm. The entropy stays the same in the whole file, but that can't be exploited because you'd need to reverse-apply exactly these deterministic interpolations to take advantage of it locally (as PNG for example does small scale with its neighbour-filters)." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:27:47.290" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17830" PostId="11688" Text="I wonder if the folks over at http://gis.stackexchange.com/ have anything to say about this. The question belongs here, but it does dabble in that area as well." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:32:59.610" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17831" PostId="11674" Score="2" Text="This is good information.  I was hoping to avoid the cost of a DSLR camera, but that might be what I have to do." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:36:53.880" UserId="5031" />
  <row Id="17832" PostId="11702" Score="1" Text="I guess my search query was a bit too complex because I never got the results you did. If people feel this needs to be closed that's fine." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:39:18.610" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17833" PostId="11696" Score="2" Text="@Oddthinking At least the negative had a little metadata at the edges!" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:41:42.313" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17834" PostId="11688" Text="@Craig The GIS people are smart enough to store both the sensor location and the geographic extent of the image, and their formats are set up for that (GeoTIFF, NITF). I don't think there's a clean answer if your metadata only has one location field." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:44:24.370" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17835" PostId="11704" Text="Lossy conversion to the RGB colourspace? How so? What do you exactly loose while converting Bayer-sensor-data (additive data) to one form of the RGB-versions? (Btw: PNG does offer ICC-profiles in principle too, FF plans to support it, I read.)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:46:08.450" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17836" PostId="11696" Text="@Oddthinking Hell yeah, how I miss the time when I took some note regarding a photo with pencil and paper. Not." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:47:23.083" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17837" PostId="11705" Text="Generally: it is a file, why should it be changed without you altering it. Specifically: that will depend on your software and the usage. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9854/damaged-raw-nef-files-ideas for my bad example how to make life difficult." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:50:42.660" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17838" PostId="11704" Text="@Leonidas: There is no “the” RGB colorspace. The camera collects much more information than what is interpretable by any RGB colorspace (sRGB, Adobe RGB etc.). As such when the conversion is done to an RGB file, there is always some information/colors lost. The only way to preserve that is by saving the data the way the camera sees it, i.e. the RAW." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:50:49.343" UserId="1435" />
  <row Id="17839" PostId="11705" Text="@Leonidas: Well, I do know that the changes I do in CameraRAW are somehow kept, so it's not that safe to assume that the file itself isn't affected in that process ;) And I will probably only open the files via CameraRAW (or some other Adobe software with an internal RAW processor)." CreationDate="2011-05-05T16:55:30.153" UserId="1435" />
  <row Id="17840" PostId="11704" Text="@poke Can you explain how a typical RGGB-sensor produces data which can't be converted lossless in any RGB-format? (I'm aware that there are multiple, note &quot;one form of the RGB-versions&quot;.)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:02:04.713" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17841" PostId="11702" Text="Related (and possibly duplicate?): http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9898/what-are-some-photography-contract-gotchas-or-must-haves" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:14:26.860" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17842" PostId="11688" Score="4" Text="The photographer in all likelihood has one position when a photo is taken. A photo on the other hand may have more than one object in it and could therefore have an ambiguous location. At least with the photographer location, orientation and focus distance you can compute what the camera has focused on." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:18:56.417" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17843" PostId="11663" Score="6" Text="I think this question largely falls in the same shopping category as &quot;Macbook Air vs. Macbook Pro?&quot; in this post http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/. Discussion on Meta: http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1082/why-are-you-voting-down-my-xs-vs-xsi-question" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:19:18.293" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17844" PostId="11688" Score="1" Text="At least Googles Panoramio kindly asks you to position the locator on the place from where you took the photo." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:23:23.300" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17845" PostId="11711" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10181/why-isnt-the-xvycc-color-space-seeing-uptake-for-still-photography" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:25:14.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17846" PostId="11704" Text="@Leonidas: I can be wrong with it, and if you know better (or are tricking me to say something wrong here), please correct me, but given that the sensor doesn't separate the light it sees into 256 steps for each color, I don't think that any normal RGB file format or RGB colorspace is able to contain all that information. I'm aware that the sensor does capture the data as RGB information, so in theory there could be a RGB colorspace if there was one that could hold as much information as the image actually contains." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:27:00.360" UserId="1435" />
  <row Id="17847" PostId="11689" Text="Its kindof ironic that the link you give uses png as an examply of lossy compression :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:27:33.193" UserId="5059" />
  <row Id="17848" PostId="11711" Score="17" Text="I hope we won't iterate all alternative file-formats in the coming next hours ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:30:08.117" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17849" PostId="11666" Text="You're right - I grabbed the wrong link.  I'll edit to fix." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:30:26.830" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="17850" PostId="11704" Text="@poke No trick here, I just seriously doubt that there won't be any RGB format offering the gamut of the sensor. Concerning the discrimination - I think that 16 bit/channel-formats offer enough room to receive it. For example in http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/8707/raw-processing-software/10556#10556 jrista mentions a demosaicing called Bayer Drizzle that really seems to be engineered to keep any data available." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:35:44.013" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17851" PostId="11714" Score="4" Text="From a more personal point of view, I don't think it is necessary.  I'm pretty happy with standard 1992 JPEG, along with RAW formats and DNG.  When we see a format come around that offers substantially(5-10x) smaller files and better quality, then I will have my ears to the ground." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:36:42.067" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17852" PostId="11713" Score="5" Text="Yes, but you don't upload RAW files to flickr or portfolio sites.  You also don't send them to the printer generally.  RAW is not the final format." CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:40:30.473" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17853" PostId="11711" Text="@Leonidas I'm on the verge of asking about FITS. It can do floating-point pixel values and everything!" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:45:11.050" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17854" PostId="11669" Text="Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at it. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:54:17.107" UserId="5029" />
  <row Id="17855" PostId="11667" Score="1" Text="This is a great summary - thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-05T17:58:59.867" UserId="5028" />
  <row Id="17856" PostId="11694" Text="I'd tend to agree with Leonidas here. The real issue is that DNG is not adopted by more camera makers. As photographers, we own our negatives, but our digital negatives are locked up in proprietary file formats, often with details concealed under NDA. Adoption of DNG by either Canon or Nikon would go a long way toward solving that. It won't happen, though." CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:20:27.147" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17857" PostId="11713" Score="3" Text="@dpollitt: True, but the people who'd care about the quality improvement of JPEG 2000 vs. the original JPEG are also the ones who are most likely to want control over what happens between raw and JPEG." CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:21:26.573" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17858" PostId="11713" Score="1" Text="@dpollitt has it spot on. There is presently no high-quality image format coming out of cameras other than TIFF on extremely few models. We need a high bit-depth format to get the camera's output precision without the hassles of having to convert RAW data into an image." CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:24:46.257" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17859" PostId="11702" Text="I don't think this needs to be closed (else i would have voted ;p), but some of the questions you asked, have been covered in other questions. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:26:02.350" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="17860" PostId="11664" Score="1" Text="One example is the &quot;The Great Wave off Kanagawa&quot;.  I, and possibly other people from cultures that read from left to right, see the wave as the main subject, crashing into the boats.  It is said that the Japanese and other cultures that read in the opposite direction view the boats first, running into the giant waves. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:33:24.310" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="17861" PostId="11713" Score="2" Text="@Itai: The question remains what percentage of the market would buy one camera over another on the basis of supporting JPEG 2000. Clearly the manufacturers currently believe that's about 0. Whether you or I like it or not, I think in this respect they're pretty close to right." CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:42:32.523" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17862" PostId="11669" Text="Made some lens corrections and yes, St. Peter's Church looks better straight. " CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:59:35.847" UserId="5029" />
  <row Id="17863" PostId="11689" Score="1" Text="As far as I know, PNG is more effective for computer generated graphics, as the format internally carries a palette of all the colors used in the image, so, for a high quality photograph it will be a HUGE palette. In other words, you wont get as much compression as for other formats, such as JPEG without other compromises (quality or performance). JPEG in the other hand, was designed specifically for photographs. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portable_Network_Graphics" CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:01:11.630" UserId="4913" />
  <row Id="17864" PostId="11720" Score="2" Text="Are you expecting the images to come out as good as a decent P&amp;S or as good as your DSLR?" CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:16:30.360" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="17865" PostId="11720" Text="I don't know what to expect, that is what I am asking.  Obviously it will not be DSLR in quality.  But will it be closer to a P&amp;S from 1995 ala Sony Floppy disk camera, or a Canon S95?  I can't find examples or even photoshop enhanced images to get an idea.  I don't consider one off images that a dirt biker guy took to be the best examples." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:22:00.200" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17866" PostId="11720" Text="I haven't been able to look, but I was told if you look on their Facebook page you can find submitted photos from users. I do have a GoPro though. I can take some photos and upload them tonight." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:24:04.693" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17867" PostId="11694" Text="@RBerteig In the meantime, it would be wise for people to buy cameras that are already supported by dcraw." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:27:58.013" UserId="2733" />
  <row Id="17868" PostId="11713" Text="@Jerry - I agree, JPEG 2000 is not the answer due to the politics behind it. One company asked a company I was working for one million USD to license use their codec! Too many people tried to profit from JPEG2000 and it was easily forgotten. Instead TIFF with good lossless compression would be nice, as PNG 16-bit-per-channel or a number of other formats." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:30:14.337" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17869" PostId="11637" Text="@dpolitt, As someone who recently owned a 17-55 and replaced it with a 16-35 it is my opinion that the 17-55 just doesn't come close to the 16-35 for my needs. I know I am in the minority of people who are posting about these two lenses, but I was really unhappy with the 17-55." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:36:55.187" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="17870" PostId="11631" Score="2" Text="@goldenmean - no, when you open CR2/NEF file in PS there is an option of image size, when one can enter the new size and PS will process the data from the raw file (the data in the file is not an image - it's the camera sensor output that can be used to produce an image) and produce a new image in the desired size." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:37:14.127" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="17871" PostId="11527" Text="@mattdm - if you tell me how to get my children to hold still when I'm trying to photograph them I'll tell you how make the goat hold still :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:39:11.957" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="17872" PostId="11689" Score="3" Text="@JZL While PNG supports color palettes (indexed color), it does not require them. I'm sure we're talking about good old 24- or 48-bit RGB color here. GIF, on the other hand, only supported indexed color and was limited to 256 colors in the palette." CreationDate="2011-05-05T19:45:32.650" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17873" PostId="11436" Text="I will definitely test this ASAP and let you know how it goes. Thanks for the info." CreationDate="2011-05-05T21:18:03.040" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17874" PostId="11674" Text="@PHLAK: Another option is buying a better P&amp;S camera. Most likely *much* cheaper than a good DSLR + good lenses..." CreationDate="2011-05-05T21:55:22.207" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="17875" PostId="11696" Text="@coneslayer I took a quick look at Wikipedia, but it had almost nothing on Photograph negatives.  Can you point me to a link on that metadata?" CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:02:26.973" UserId="5064" />
  <row Id="17876" PostId="11696" Score="1" Text="@Kevin Actually, after diving into Exif, I loathe some of it's features which XMP solves.  I just wish XMP was more widely supported, especially since PNG supports it.  The most frustrating thing about Exif is the lack of time zone information in Exif time stamps.  When my phone automatically changes time zones, it makes it difficult to determine the correct relative time later.  It's also an argument against changing the time on one's camera if they wish to geotag their photos later from their GPS logger." CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:06:44.320" UserId="5064" />
  <row Id="17877" PostId="11696" Text="@penguin: good to hear it solves some problems. The only way to get it supported is to spread the word and get people asking for it." CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:09:52.813" UserId="5055" />
  <row Id="17878" PostId="11696" Text="@Kevin I'm more concerned about camera manufactures supporting it, but I have no influence in that arena.  I want my photos originally stored with proper timezone and other meta data where Exif lacks." CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:16:46.480" UserId="5064" />
  <row Id="17879" PostId="11696" Text="@penguin, by &quot;get people asking for it&quot; I was referring to asking the manufactures for said support. Until the community backs it, they won't spend the money :)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:19:18.980" UserId="5055" />
  <row Id="17880" PostId="11696" Text="@penguin Film had edge markings showing the film type and frame number. For example http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/primer/photomicrography/images/chromeprocessingerrors/unexposed.jpg (Also, there were camera backs that could imprint date/time or exposure info between the frames, for example http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F80 .)" CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:21:24.350" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17881" PostId="11658" Text="I read the subject as &quot;How to create an eye-patch&quot; and my first reaction was to close as off-topic and migrate to http://pirates.stackexchange.com" CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:57:48.297" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17882" PostId="11707" Text="+1 this is one of the reasons I started shooting RAW in the first place: the reversibility in post-processing" CreationDate="2011-05-05T23:16:41.047" UserId="26" />
  <row Id="17883" PostId="11571" Text="Are you shooting a Canon? If so, the EF-50/1.4 is noticeably cheaper than the $500 price tag you mentioned." CreationDate="2011-05-05T23:16:58.347" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17884" PostId="11723" Text="I have always wished I could join CPS.  The problem is that the membership requires you to be a full-time photography professional.  I'm not quite sure how they could prove that one way or another though." CreationDate="2011-05-05T23:32:01.557" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17885" PostId="7202" Text="@Omar Kooheji - The 18-55mm kit lens has literally no value.  I doubt most people would even attempt to sell this, so you could probably find it for free among friends or fellow photographers." CreationDate="2011-05-05T23:38:05.573" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17886" PostId="11723" Score="1" Text="They do ask for some details (name of business, years operated, etc.) but mostly they have you 'prove' it by requiring that you prove ownership of more than one of their high-end camera bodes and a number of 'pro' level lenses... I suppose that they probably figure if you're someone who owns $10,000+ in Canon-brand gear and are willing to pay a steep annual fee, that is going to screen out almost everyone *but* the pros and maybe the occasional rich amateur who cares enough about being 'in the club' to lie about being a pro..." CreationDate="2011-05-05T23:48:04.733" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17887" PostId="11694" Text="@John, using 2 bytes/pixel is abnormal?  How else would you fit the 12 or 14-bit value the sensor provides for each pixel?  You could do a little compression afterwards, but for a bunch of more-or-less random data it may not even be worth it." CreationDate="2011-05-06T00:22:42.227" UserId="3085" />
  <row Id="17888" PostId="11571" Score="1" Text="You could check your need for a certain prime by taking some (typical) pictures with your zoom and then use ExposurePlot to analyze if you prefer a certain focal length or walk all over your zoom-range all the time." CreationDate="2011-05-06T00:29:30.997" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17890" PostId="11724" Text="What lens are you trying to do this with?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T01:25:28.357" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17891" PostId="11713" Text="@Itai: A million to license a JPEG 2000 codec? That sounds utterly insane. It's *usually* a much better idea to buy than develop when you can, but in that case it sounds pretty questionable." CreationDate="2011-05-06T01:36:59.247" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17892" PostId="11694" Text="@erjiang, I certainly agree with that. I've advocated archiving a copy of dcraw.c that works with your camera along with your periodic backups of your raw files as at least one way to make sure you've got a document that describes them." CreationDate="2011-05-06T01:57:10.750" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17893" PostId="11727" Score="1" Text="My standard mode for any party where I pick out people :) (although only 2.8 max here)&#xA;&#xA;Only thing that really annoys me is that I have to go to the menu for turning Auto ISO on/off. At least it is always in my &quot;Last used options&quot;-list (can't be added to the customized list in the D90)." CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:01:17.397" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17894" PostId="11682" Text="I like to add a gradient mask as well, which provides a more realistic effect: it allows for items closer to the subject to be less blurred, items farther away are more blurred." CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:02:51.993" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="17895" PostId="11704" Text="Given that TIFF is the basis for the various raw formats, I'm not sure that you can assert your last paragraph." CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:13:06.750" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17896" PostId="11572" Score="2" Text="I don't think this is an unreasonable beginner question." CreationDate="2011-05-06T02:17:22.320" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17897" PostId="11723" Text="+1 - On a side note, I think you can get by, on the bodies, with a 7D and a 5D for the &quot;pro&quot; designation. That's actually pretty cheap to some degree, the Pentax pro body is the 645D at $10,000. Though it would really appear, at least in Canada, that it is sufficient to say that you're pro to have Pentax accept it. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T03:21:08.310" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17898" PostId="11571" Text="In addition to (or instead of) worrying about aperture and image quality, check out this article, entitled &quot;The Case Against Zooms&quot; http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/the-case-against-zooms.html, which is an interesting read even if you don't end up agreeing for your own use." CreationDate="2011-05-06T03:22:36.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17899" PostId="11723" Text="That's true... You also need to own at least 3 'pro' level Canon lenses and be willing to shell out $100/yr (Gold) or $500/yr (Platinum) for 'membership dues.' Either way I think it's pretty well designed in terms of price such that it's really only 'worthwhile' to someone who shoots frequently enough to be considered a 'pro.' Who else but a pro is going to get enough use out of their discounted/expedited repair and 2nd day shipping services to make it worth the fee?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T03:52:31.137" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17900" PostId="11467" Text="Ehh... I think other answers have that angle covered pretty well..." CreationDate="2011-05-06T04:44:33.753" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17901" PostId="11727" Text="Fortunately, the D7000 fixes that oversight, and it can be added to the last-used-options list. You can also program one of your user modes, but those save _all_ your settings, including WB, focus modes, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-06T05:40:26.190" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17902" PostId="11715" Text="Note that the submarine patent theory is applicable to *every single standard ever written*. There have in fact already been a number of such patents turned up against the original jpeg. So while it might be one small facet of why jpeg2000 never got any traction, I doubt it's the entire reason, or even a large part." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:01:36.980" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17903" PostId="11729" Score="1" Text="@Muhammad: Hi Muhammad, I tried to clean up your question a bit in order to make it fit better within the guidelines of our site. It's important to note that this is not a critique site, so I removed that aspect of your questions. Also this site works better with specific questions, and some of yours are quite general in nature. This will put your question in danger of being voted to be closed as 'too broad and therefore unanswerable.' I'd recommend narrowing the focus of your questions (especially #1 and #4) in order that we can better help you ..." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:14:26.810" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17904" PostId="11729" Text="Taking a look at our sites FAQ: http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq may also help you to better understand what is on topic here and also help you to reshape your questions to be more focused." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:16:16.277" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17905" PostId="5644" Text="I would also like to suggest a &quot;No cropping&quot; or &quot;Straight out of the camera&quot; rule. This makes me at think at least twice before snapping a picture. Also, it makes me take a few steps closer, or choose a different perspective if something is in the way. Also, trying to expose just right, in camera, adds a competitive feeling, even if it is only you who is &quot;playing&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:17:07.570" UserId="3922" />
  <row Id="17906" PostId="11733" Text="Cheap too. There's several DIY projects out there that use a modified body cap." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:23:50.737" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17907" PostId="11730" Text="I wonder if you could DIY your own super-ND by spray-painting a UV filter or something." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:25:13.983" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="17908" PostId="11729" Text="@Jay, thanks for editing my question. I have also removed pics because that was not making sense now. Thanks for the help." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:32:53.463" UserId="5072" />
  <row Id="17909" PostId="6600" Text="The downside of bits is that if you lose some of your bits, you've generally lost the whole thing. Prints can stand quite a bit of abuse before they're totally worthless." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:42:01.487" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="17910" PostId="11734" Score="2" Text="I like the blending option - It doesn't involve another $100 filter. I'll give it a shot." CreationDate="2011-05-06T06:43:13.277" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="17911" PostId="11727" Text="Wow I didn't even know there's an auto ISO mode. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:15:05.000" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="17912" PostId="11737" Text="Difference alone doesn't really help much when you're left with a big black void like that. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:15:08.730" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17913" PostId="11738" Text="Difference alone doesn't really help much when you're left with a big black void like that. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:15:27.013" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17914" PostId="11740" Text="@mattdm: Just to be clear (whether you end up answering the question or not), I know that we've given you a bit of friendly ribbing lately in chat regarding your desire to 'underpin' things with art history, psychology, etc., so I wanted to state that my 3rd question is completely serious and is in no way intended to be mocking towards you (or anyone else). " CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:17:42.160" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17915" PostId="11740" Score="2" Text="Although I am curious, I admit that I find myself a little bit suspicious of the 'Miksang philosophy' on the whole and thus am quite curious if there really are some connections to the various stylistic schools of photographic thought to be found... Or if this really is a case of a couple of people getting together and deciding to make a little money by peddling a 'new and innovative' way of approaching photography via the time-worn practice of not saying too much about how to approach the technique... Until you shell out $$$ to attend one of their seminars." CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:17:49.443" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17916" PostId="11737" Text="@cabbey sure, comparing 100% to 95% you most likely will get a solid black. But that's what your question was asking isn't it? In your owner answer, you're changing the values from the originals being compared, which makes them no longer having the original compression settings." CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:20:46.413" UserId="4" />
  <row Id="17917" PostId="11737" Text="You get virtually solid black on just about any comparison, because the differences are so small. The threshold/curve layer after the difference doesn't do anything to the compression settings, it just aids the visualization of the lower bounds of that black soup that difference prepared. (I'm not 100% sure what you meant by that, so I could be heading off in a different direction there....)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:31:17.790" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17918" PostId="11737" Text="@cabbey if you're asking for a pure bit-wise operation of the difference between the 2 images, then &quot;Difference&quot; blending mode alone gives you that. When you adjust threshold/curve, though the result is more obvious to the naked eye, but it's not an accurate representation of what has changed. When do you that, you're not longer comparing a 100% to a 95%." CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:36:43.197" UserId="4" />
  <row Id="17919" PostId="11737" Text="Sure you are. The level of compression stopped mattering the second photoshop loaded the image from disk into it's internal buffers, it is now an uncompressed pixel array in memory... if those pixels got there because the image had a square blob there or because they are an artifact of the compression level is not relevant." CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:42:31.690" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17920" PostId="11736" Text="Matlab is exactly what I meant by &quot;without tedious custom software programing&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:47:55.257" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17921" PostId="11737" Text="I'm just curious, with your method, how would you get an accurate representation of the difference between a 100% vs 70%, and 100% vs 40%? It seems you're just eyeballing until the difference is obvious. " CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:50:16.703" UserId="4" />
  <row Id="17922" PostId="11737" Text="The only eyeballing step is where to set the output point on the curve, or the cuttoff on the threshold (I rarely use anything other than 1 there). As long as you use the same point for both visualizations, then the side by side results could be meaningfully compared. They're both set to use the same &quot;scale&quot; for the visualization that way." CreationDate="2011-05-06T07:53:18.230" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17923" PostId="11740" Text="It does look pretty cool seems like there is a book http://miksang.com/PCP%20Book.html " CreationDate="2011-05-06T09:14:38.233" UserId="230" />
  <row Id="17924" PostId="11717" Score="1" Text="Very interesting - might be worth asking as a standalone question." CreationDate="2011-05-06T09:38:33.683" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="17925" PostId="11694" Text="@RBerteig Native DNG support was one of the reasons why I went into Pentax DSLR system." CreationDate="2011-05-06T09:54:28.483" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="17926" PostId="11738" Text="You can always adjust the levels on the resulting image. Whenever I've used this technique I've had pictures different enough to be able to see the changes :)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T10:27:50.963" UserId="3521" />
  <row Id="17927" PostId="11747" Text="Apologies for the numerous edits, I was compiling this slowly on a dodgey connection, not trying to &quot;bump&quot; the answer." CreationDate="2011-05-06T11:17:58.643" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="17928" PostId="11736" Score="1" Text="4 lines of code. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T11:21:23.587" UserId="5019" />
  <row Id="17929" PostId="5952" Text="+1 For the craft knife, sometimes non-digital is the easiest option." CreationDate="2011-05-06T11:25:29.590" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="17930" PostId="11715" Text="@cabbey: That one was only one example. The german Wikipedia states that all add-ons like colour profiles and metadata-formats equally are not verbalized as licence-free." CreationDate="2011-05-06T11:32:51.110" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="17931" PostId="11744" Text="Would you say this is different from other visual arts?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T11:46:24.933" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17932" PostId="11735" Text="Not submitting this as an answer as it's probably not a viable solution for photos, but GitHub (a programmer's site) has some interesting ways of comparing images: https://github.com/cameronmcefee/Image-Diff-View-Modes/commit/8e95f70c9c47168305970e91021072673d7cdad8 Try clicking &quot;2-up&quot;, &quot;Swipe&quot;, &quot;Onion Skin&quot; and &quot;Difference&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-06T12:19:56.670" UserId="5081" />
  <row Id="17933" PostId="11744" Text="@mattdm.  good point.  probably the same.  " CreationDate="2011-05-06T12:28:14.723" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="17935" PostId="11740" Score="1" Text="@Jay — no worries. I bring it up so much because that's what I want to learn. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-06T12:39:15.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17936" PostId="11714" Text="What originally impressed me about JPG2000 was the lossless compression.  Once I read the Wiki article about JPG92 I discovered that even that version has the option for lossless compression." CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:03:25.940" UserId="5058" />
  <row Id="17937" PostId="11716" Text="In essence there hasn't been a new format that offers enough additional benefit to make it worth the trouble of switching.  Clearly size isn't a significant benefit.  Color gamut seems the be the latest candidate but it seems to be having trouble getting traction as a serious issue." CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:06:53.660" UserId="5058" />
  <row Id="17938" PostId="11746" Text="Studio photography is another area where you frequently see photographers working together, usually one photographer is in charge creatively and decides the lighting etc. so there are no disagreements or inconsistency in the shots." CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:07:16.610" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17939" PostId="11757" Score="2" Text="f/5.6 is less than 2 stops smaller than f/1.8. That means that your shutter speed should be about 1/1000 sec - still much faster than 1/6 sec (expected frame rate). This means that the fact that it is a slower lens does not play a role here." CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:47:16.207" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17940" PostId="11755" Text="If the problem is keeping you from moving your photos to the PC, you can remove the SD card from the camera and use a card reader to read it. If you don't have a card reader in your computer(s), they are available inexpensively, for example: http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Memory-Card-Reader-Writer/dp/B000FNDWLQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1304690060&amp;sr=1-3" CreationDate="2011-05-06T13:54:40.503" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17941" PostId="11755" Score="2" Text="I got this issue with my camera too, when my son dropped it in the sand.  The lens mechanism retraction is very fragile.  One grain of sand is enough to break the camera.  In our case, we got the camera for less than a week, so we returned the camera for an exchange." CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:01:55.250" UserId="1093" />
  <row Id="17942" PostId="11760" Score="1" Text="Not off-topic at all!" CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:29:31.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17943" PostId="11757" Text="Is it a menu setting to control focus lock and shutter release? It is on Pentax, not so sure with Canon." CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:44:02.423" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="17944" PostId="11762" Text="I've heard the focusing with the composer is harder than focusing with a f/1.2 lens. But I never liked the Muse due to it's random and way-to-flexible way to focus (Al tough I've never touched a lensbaby). Also I feel I don't have enough fingers to hold the lens, the camera and manipulate the buttons and wheels :F" CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:53:34.833" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="17945" PostId="11761" Text="Emphasis on poor low light performance. Just wanted to add that." CreationDate="2011-05-06T14:57:34.350" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17947" PostId="4945" Text="Wonderful review! Very helpful indeed. I am thinking of getting a new DSLR camera and I can't decide what to get between the Canon EOS 550D and Nikon D90. Will definitely consider your review and I hope I won't regret my purchase! Thanks! ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T08:32:50.423" UserId="5078" />
  <row Id="17948" PostId="11762" Text="You really need to play with it for a while to get it. The &quot;random&quot; focus is _hard_, but incredibly fun." CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:08:59.103" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17949" PostId="11756" Text="Excellent reasoning Matt!" CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:15:30.807" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="17950" PostId="11432" Text="A weakness in this argument is uncovered when we consider homeless people.  They have no private realm into which they can withdraw; they have no choice but to be in public places and thus no implicit concent can be presumed. " CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:16:26.823" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="17951" PostId="11428" Text="This is the correct answer imho!" CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:18:25.353" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="17952" PostId="11432" Text="@fmark: That argument works only to the degree that their lack of privacy is outside their control. Sometimes it probably is, at least partially (e.g., severe emotional or psychological problems), but in other cases it's clearly not (their being homeless results from their own decisions). Somebody having chosen to be in public at all times doesn't somehow give them the extra right to limit others' free speech." CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:24:32.653" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="17953" PostId="11757" Score="1" Text="@ysap f/5.6 is more than 3 stops smaller than f/1.8, FWIW. I agree that's not the issue." CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:31:06.047" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="17954" PostId="11694" Text="@Nick T. Does the sensor typically really only provide a 12 or 14 bit value for each pixel? I haven't dealt with anything RAW until recently and I suppose I expected it provided raw data much closer to 24 bits of color (8 green bits, 8 red bits, 8 blue bits). " CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:40:58.160" UserId="2451" />
  <row Id="17955" PostId="11712" Text="I'm going to mark this as the answer because it directly provides and example. Thank you. Just what I was looking for." CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:46:01.473" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17956" PostId="11694" Text="@Nick T. I went ahead and posted [http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11766/how-many-bits-of-data-is-typically-actually-captured-by-a-digital-camera-sensor](a question) asking about digital camera sensor bits of data. Feel free to answer if this is something you know a lot about." CreationDate="2011-05-06T15:51:42.440" UserId="2451" />
  <row Id="17957" PostId="7009" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11757/can-lens-focus-speed-affect-continuous-shooting-speed" CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:10:26.657" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17958" PostId="11772" Text="Yeah, I feel the same. I'd rather deal with the annoyance and I've never specifically noticed an issue with image quality, I just wanted to know if there's something I'm missing." CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:15:10.693" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17959" PostId="11761" Score="1" Text="well, your also comparing the distortion of a fisheye lens with a regular lens.. so the only thing you can compare is the compression quality.." CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:15:29.423" UserId="245" />
  <row Id="17960" PostId="11773" Text="Thank you, very good point. I'll add the camera." CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:18:47.430" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17961" PostId="11763" Text="I don't know if this applies to still photography, but in film production, this is part of color grading." CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:22:29.520" UserId="1905" />
  <row Id="17962" PostId="11774" Score="1" Text="Very good point. I've run into the same issue starting a burst too early and filling up the buffer before the sequence reaches its peak." CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:25:32.157" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17963" PostId="11768" Text="A some what related question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7009/what-conditions-hold-up-continuous-shooting" CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:26:33.123" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="17966" PostId="11694" Text="@John Robertson: Most chips only record one color per pixel, not three, so 14 bit RAW corresponds to 42 bit RGB, after two color components per pixel has been interpolated from surrounding pixels." CreationDate="2011-05-06T16:48:41.223" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="17968" PostId="11779" Text="42 bits or 56 (2× G)?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T17:29:37.773" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17969" PostId="11779" Text="Each RGB pixel is created from a weighted average of potentially many pixels so you can't just multiply by 3 (or 4) to determine how many bits of colour data you get. If you want to talk about bits of colour information then experimentally you get about 22 bits with a typical DSLR" CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:13:42.243" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17970" PostId="11694" Text="@jetxee, Yup, Pentax and a couple of the *very* high end cameras do native DNG. I just won't hold my breath waiting for Canon or Nikon to move away from their proprietary RAW formats. " CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:29:23.413" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17971" PostId="11768" Score="13" Text="One downside of leaving it on burst mode is that if you hand someone else your camera to take a photo you'll end up getting about fifty!" CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:30:11.707" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="17972" PostId="11736" Score="1" Text="... and $$$$$ to buy matlab in the first place, although I suspect [Octave](http://www.gnu.org/software/octave/) would do fine for this. And either way the right four lines of code rest on top of a fairly steep learning curve." CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:43:42.153" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="17973" PostId="11757" Text="@coneslayer - you are obviously right, I was probably (not...) thinking linearly instead of squared." CreationDate="2011-05-06T19:10:39.593" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17974" PostId="11779" Text="@Matt Grum: Yeah. The simple number tells you how many bits of _data_ you have, but you end up with far less actual _information_." CreationDate="2011-05-06T19:28:28.107" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17975" PostId="11754" Text="+1 The weddings are a good example indeed. Depending on the budget, there can certainly be multiple photogs on the floor, all with equal importance." CreationDate="2011-05-06T19:48:25.583" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17976" PostId="11766" Text="&quot;Are typically actually&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T20:28:12.493" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="17977" PostId="11778" Score="1" Text="This should probably be migrated to the [Graphic Design stackexchange site](http://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/)" CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:04:39.653" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17978" PostId="11785" Score="2" Text="OK, so what is the actual difference? Why do I need both?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:07:49.697" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17979" PostId="11768" Score="1" Text="There is no downside." CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:26:24.057" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17980" PostId="11785" Text="I have no solid answer for why they need both on the same printer. So far as I understood it, mixing the two on a single paper was a bad idea. Perhaps the pigment one is for b+w copies, prints, etc and the chromalife one is for pictures or other full color images. I know I wish my pixma had something like that when I keep having to buy a CLI-8BK cartridge because of printing simple black and white text documents. But that's just a semi-educated guess." CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:31:32.960" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="17982" PostId="11778" Score="1" Text="Why is that...?" CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:45:13.253" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="17983" PostId="11785" Text="@ysap: Take a look at my answer, I think I've sufficiently explained why there are two types of black ink in your particular printer." CreationDate="2011-05-06T21:56:18.363" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="17984" PostId="11790" Text="Ta, I can copy the mask to a second layer, but what I want now is when I go and make changes on the second layer, it will make the same changes on the first automatically, rather than copy/pasting (and hopefully can include whatever the link is in the recorded action).  I'm hoping there's a way to auto link the masks, but can use your work around in the meantime." CreationDate="2011-05-07T01:23:46.203" UserId="5084" />
  <row Id="17985" PostId="11798" Text="FWIW, that's what Pentax does. See @dpollitt's answer." CreationDate="2011-05-07T04:05:59.753" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17986" PostId="11795" Score="8" Text="You are really good at answering your own questions." CreationDate="2011-05-07T05:04:25.133" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17987" PostId="11795" Score="13" Text="With a small site like photo-SE sometimes you just gotta *ask* the types of questions that you're interested in *answering*. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-07T05:10:31.897" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="17988" PostId="11799" Score="1" Text="@Dakine83: Welcome to the site. I linked your image for you. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-07T05:16:23.560" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="17989" PostId="11799" Text="Thanks @mattdm!" CreationDate="2011-05-07T05:23:31.123" UserId="5042" />
  <row Id="17990" PostId="11796" Text="Might need to clean up this question, and boil it down to a single question of &quot;photo import alternatives to lightroom&quot;.  Also, do you import RAW files or JPEG?" CreationDate="2011-05-07T05:30:28.157" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17991" PostId="11795" Score="1" Text="This is kinda silly, despite being a great answer..." CreationDate="2011-05-07T07:13:08.153" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="17992" PostId="11795" Score="7" Text="It's silly? How so?" CreationDate="2011-05-07T07:24:20.043" UserId="4032" />
  <row Id="17993" PostId="11800" Text="@dpollitt: Thanks for the the confirmation. Wish me luck in the return process!" CreationDate="2011-05-07T07:44:54.903" UserId="5042" />
  <row Id="17994" PostId="11788" Text="@jrista - Thanks for the thorough explanation. As my printer driver does not let me directly choose the ink used, I guess the choice is made based on the basic settings of 'document' or 'photo' and the choice of paper." CreationDate="2011-05-07T12:42:20.523" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17995" PostId="11789" Text="@dpollitt - thanks. In the MP560, the pigment choice is only for the black ink. I guess that for pigment color prints one need to step up to the PRO9500 level. But then, this printer does not offer the dye ink option. OTOH, the PRO9000 has only dye ink cartridges." CreationDate="2011-05-07T12:44:57.370" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="17997" PostId="11811" Text="@lars:thanks for the quick response well i am more inclined towards landscape and nature just drive me crazy.will look for the books and agree about material on internet but for a new person if he is not sure where to start such a lot of material will confuse " CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:07:03.937" UserId="4433" />
  <row Id="17998" PostId="11805" Text="Try a [Magic Lantern Guide for the D90](http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Lantern-Guides-Nikon-D90/dp/1600595243)" CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:11:54.300" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="17999" PostId="11813" Text="Aww that's a shame - I'll have to keep looking then. Thanks for the interesting background info too!" CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:15:28.097" UserId="3263" />
  <row Id="18000" PostId="3635" Score="2" Text="I am red/green color blind, and it affects me all the time in Photography.  I literally have my wife spot check my work before I publish it, every time." CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:15:49.583" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18001" PostId="11778" Text="@ElendilTheTall - Based on a discussion in meta it was determined that these Photoshop specific questions do not belong in the Photography SE.  http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/658/what-should-we-do-with-photoshop-questions" CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:19:41.920" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18002" PostId="11813" Text="It is kind of -- I have a couple of old Konica lenses and both Minolta and Sony cameras I'd like to use together as well." CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:21:20.047" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18003" PostId="11801" Text="I don't think any of these programs (at least the free ones) have good rename on import functions.  &#xA;but I will agree that if you have lightroom USE IT. it is by far THE BEST (or at least in my opinion it is)" CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:47:42.843" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="18004" PostId="11796" Text="I would also like to know what brand of camera. if you use a nikon The Nikon transfer program (part of [ViewNX2](http://alternativeto.net/software/viewnx-2/)) works quite nice. I do not know if it will work on a cannon camera or other. but it works great for Nikon" CreationDate="2011-05-07T15:51:43.993" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="18005" PostId="11812" Text="Some interesting detail here: http://www.buhla.de/Foto/Konica/eHexanonHaupt.html (it's in English)" CreationDate="2011-05-07T16:00:44.413" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18006" PostId="11811" Text="@umesh, please do stick around and ask more specific questions as they come up as you are learning. " CreationDate="2011-05-07T16:19:30.693" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18007" PostId="11788" Text="@ysap: It should be selected by media type. I have a Canon iP4500 which also uses both dye and pigment black inks. I believe that selecting a matte paper uses pigment ink, and glossy paper uses dye ink. Generally, you shouldn't worry about it...the printer will use the most appropriate ink automatically, so long as you choose the right settings for the kind of paper you are printing on." CreationDate="2011-05-07T16:26:00.280" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18008" PostId="11798" Text="Nikons do too, and I guess so do others. The problem is the terminology. Despite the 'M' on the screen, this is an auto mode and should be presented as one." CreationDate="2011-05-07T16:57:15.670" UserId="4827" />
  <row Id="18009" PostId="11778" Score="1" Text="That's where the question doesn't relate to photographic retouching: the FAQ says questions regarding photo processing and retouching are perfectly valid. Color balance and masking is surely a photographic use of PS, not a design one." CreationDate="2011-05-07T17:24:28.873" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18010" PostId="11798" Text="No, I mean Pentax does what you want. They call it _TAv_ - shutter time + aperture. " CreationDate="2011-05-07T18:06:39.537" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18011" PostId="11774" Score="3" Text="This is a good point, but doesn't really answer the question. If you hadn't had your camera in burst mode, you would've had no chance of getting the &quot;woah&quot; shot at all." CreationDate="2011-05-07T18:47:31.123" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18012" PostId="11802" Score="4" Text="+1 for experimentation with rule breaking, or at least bending. Especially in digital, where the marginal cost of experimentation is measured in time and a few spare bytes of storage." CreationDate="2011-05-07T18:50:53.650" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="18013" PostId="11795" Score="3" Text="Answers on stack exchange sites help a lot of people other than the poster of a question. Lay Lance Photography just presented a nicely formated question, and a nicely formated answer. It is now available for anyone who is interested in this top to view. So yeah. How is it silly?" CreationDate="2011-05-07T18:52:12.627" UserId="5095" />
  <row Id="18014" PostId="11774" Text="@Henry: Yup, it's definitely tangential to the specific question asked. However, I figured it was a decent place to bring it up: having your camera in burst mode doesn't do you any good if you can't *use* the burst mode when you want it." CreationDate="2011-05-07T18:52:34.997" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18015" PostId="11815" Text="Try displaying an externally hosted image on your website to see if it displays properly." CreationDate="2011-05-07T18:54:49.177" UserId="5095" />
  <row Id="18016" PostId="11794" Text="I was confused reading the answers because I was reading it &quot;Lead (rhymes with bed) room,&quot; not &quot;Lead (rhymes with bead) room&quot; :)" CreationDate="2011-05-07T19:01:56.227" UserId="4848" />
  <row Id="18017" PostId="11795" Score="2" Text="@Nick: From the [faq](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq): `It’s also perfectly fine to ask and answer your own question, as long as you pretend you’re on Jeopardy! – phrase it in the form of a question. `" CreationDate="2011-05-07T19:04:24.553" UserId="4848" />
  <row Id="18018" PostId="11818" Score="1" Text="I would find out where epson packages their paper - and then try to figure out who buys the same paper and packages it as generic. Its not a joke. I work in a paper cutting place. The same paper goes in x different packaging.. but we dont do photopaper.. damn" CreationDate="2011-05-07T22:28:42.223" UserId="5098" />
  <row Id="18019" PostId="11815" Score="3" Text="Check this out: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/5773032/how-to-stop-gd2-from-washing-away-the-colors-upon-resizing-images/5775030#5775030" CreationDate="2011-05-07T23:26:02.310" UserId="5054" />
  <row Id="18020" PostId="11815" Text="I think Alix has the root cause. The GD2 library is the one used in Wordpress/NexGen and your display in the site context is using resized images." CreationDate="2011-05-07T23:42:59.627" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18021" PostId="11794" Text="@BlueRaja: That's funny, I always trip myself up thinking the same exact thing. I think it should be spelled 'Leed' in order to be less confusing. Stupid English... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T00:17:07.300" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18022" PostId="11802" Score="1" Text="@automag007 and @RBerteig: I couldn't agree more. When it comes to things like... oh, I don't know... heart surgery... bridge building... sky diving... space travel... You know, things where doing things incorrectly could kill someone... I'm certain that there are some rules that just shouldn't *ever* be broken... But when it comes to photography it's the very rare rule indeed that isn't more of a *guideline*. :-) Thanks for the additional emphasis on that!" CreationDate="2011-05-08T00:21:45.127" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18023" PostId="11817" Text="I appreaciate all this help and advice. I just completed another test between rgb and srgb and took screen shots from my website that show apple rgb having better results.&#xA;&#xA;http://davidmccarthymedia.com/russ/test.jpg&#xA;&#xA;I am no longer sure what is happening.&#xA;=\" CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:20:02.573" UserId="5094" />
  <row Id="18024" PostId="11816" Text="I just completed another test of srgb vs rgb. uploaded/ launched/ screen shot. &#xA;&#xA;http://davidmccarthymedia.com/russ/test.jpg" CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:24:30.353" UserId="5094" />
  <row Id="18026" PostId="11816" Score="1" Text="@David: One of those is Apple RGB...which as far as I know is a pretty small color space, smaller even than sRGB. Normally, one should work in Adobe (not Apple) RGB, and convert to sRGB as the final step before saving for display online. The reason for that is most web browsers just assume the profile in use is sRGB, even if the image is tagged otherwise. That can cause undesired color shift when using other ICC profiles." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:37:47.813" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18027" PostId="11740" Text="@Jay: Though you desire to have a more solid and founded answer than the flowery description on the Miksang web site...the concept is based on Shambhala and Dharma. I'm not really sure it gets more flowery and new-agey than that! :P From what I can tell, it is an emotionally founded technique that is fundamentally based on the mental aspect of those two mystic arts." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:51:41.790" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18028" PostId="11821" Text="It's a tangent, but this is very worth reading on Adobe RGB vs. sRGB: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/sRGB-AdobeRGB1998.htm" CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:53:52.337" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18029" PostId="11803" Text="When it comes to printing on role paper, the only devices that I've seen do that **well** are the commercial-grade Epson and Canon (and HP, even) printers." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:53:54.237" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18030" PostId="11796" Text="Currently using a Fuji F10 (old school, I know); jpeg only. Will likely add RAW and another brand soon when I buy myself a gift." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:53:55.260" UserId="5089" />
  <row Id="18031" PostId="11801" Score="1" Text="Thx, am tending to agree that having bought LR it's probably best to go ahead and start using it properly." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:54:37.743" UserId="5089" />
  <row Id="18032" PostId="6433" Text="Worth reading, on sRGB vs. Adobe RGB: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/sRGB-AdobeRGB1998.htm" CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:54:39.207" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18033" PostId="11804" Text="Thanks for not commenting on how nuts I am :) Will have to explore more in LR to see how best to organize. One thing I like w/ free options (WLPG, Picasa, et al.) is the easy export to sites my family/friends use to see photos. LR can do it, just a bit kludgier IMHO." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:56:51.550" UserId="5089" />
  <row Id="18034" PostId="11821" Text="I've read the cambridge page, and they approach the issue from one particular angle. From another angle, its about performing your photographic processing in the gamut that best matches the medium your working in. Cheaper computer screens would benefit more from working in sRGB than Adobe RGB, but if you have a decent screen that supports 90% or more of Adobe RGB, then using that gamut will usually give you more accurate results. It all boils down to saturation extent...and you want to use the saturation your screen provides to accurately process color." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:57:15.313" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18035" PostId="11814" Score="1" Text="Thx, will check out Adebis as a backup. Hadn't heard out of that before. Convinced from others that I need to kick myself past the LR learning curve so it becomes my go to." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:57:59.273" UserId="5089" />
  <row Id="18036" PostId="11810" Text="Thanks, will take a look at that." CreationDate="2011-05-08T01:58:19.337" UserId="5089" />
  <row Id="18037" PostId="11795" Text="@Jay: I'm curious if &quot;lead room&quot; and &quot;negative space&quot;, which is a similar concept, could be answered in one question like this. Negative space is an important concept in nature photography, particularly with birds, flora, and plant/insect macros. Wildlife benefit from &quot;lead room&quot; just as much as the subject types you've listed here. Think its worth answering &quot;negative space&quot; here, or in another question?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:00:18.307" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18038" PostId="11821" Score="1" Text="But if you're going to be producing sRGB results in the end anyway, you may be disappointed by the gamut compression, if distinct cyan/green colors were important to your image. If you're working on an image with multiple final destinations, it may be easiest to just use the workflow you describe, but if you're aiming for something in particular, and if your screen covers the final gamut anyway (which it will, for sRGB), I think it's best to _work_ in that space too. (Unless you are doing radical color changes, in which case you may want something really big like ProPhoto RGB or BetaRGB.)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:06:03.630" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18039" PostId="11821" Score="1" Text="And in any case I think that the suggestion to stick to sRGB when working with 8-bit color depth unless your image really calls for the extended colors is very sound." CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:06:55.063" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18040" PostId="11804" Score="1" Text="Also, hadn't heard of Photo Mechanic, and even though it looks good, $150 is hard to justify on top of LR." CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:07:43.543" UserId="5089" />
  <row Id="18041" PostId="11817" Text="@David — be aware that that image _itself_ is sRGB, so it _can't possibly_ show any real advantages of a different color space. It's simulated for effect." CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:09:38.673" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18042" PostId="11821" Text="Realize, though, that once you have down-converted from a larger gamut, there really isn't anything that will allow you to expand back up to a larger gamut if you need to. Gamut conversion, at least in tools like Photoshop (there may be open source code out there that can do more) only really affect an apparent color change when you convert down to a smaller space, not up. You should also be aware of what you ARE losing by moving to sRGB, where as if you start in sRGB, you'll never know." CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:16:32.503" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18043" PostId="11818" Text="@ppumkin Any idea how you can figure stuff like that out?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:36:36.997" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18044" PostId="11821" Text="Fair point. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:43:53.367" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18045" PostId="11794" Text="Yeah, I keep seeing this and thinking &quot;It's where you go if you need to be sure Superman can't spy on you with his x-ray vision.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:53:00.117" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18046" PostId="11794" Text="Random trivia time! The &quot;lede&quot; of a news story is spelled that way specifically to avoid confusion with lead type. " CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:55:58.197" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18047" PostId="11733" Text="Pinholes are NOT sharp. This is a significant problem with them for me." CreationDate="2011-05-08T02:56:02.063" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18048" PostId="11740" Text="@jrista: I'm going to let the question hang for a bit longer (mostly because I don't see myself having the time to write up a solid answer for another couple of days), but I *have* been putting some research into this question and while there are some pretty 'touchy-feely' aspects to it, there's also a 'technique and practice' aspect to it that could be helpful to photographers- even if they don't necessarily buy-in to the new-agey part of the whole thing. Sooo... if no one else (@mattdm?) beats me to it, I think I'll end up tackling the answer myself. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T03:08:56.823" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18049" PostId="11795" Score="1" Text="@jrista: I think there are enough differences between the two concepts (subtle though the may be) that negative space deserves it's own question. I also think it will be a much more difficult question to answer *well* because the concept is tough to describe, but relatively intuitive to understand. :-) " CreationDate="2011-05-08T03:17:58.430" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18050" PostId="11740" Text="@Jay: I may beat you to it myself...still researching though. I will say, I find some of the Miksang work I've found rather...odd, sometimes rather bland. I'd still be curious to see what you have to say about it even if I do provide my own answer." CreationDate="2011-05-08T03:23:01.123" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18051" PostId="11740" Score="1" Text="@jrista Great! I'd love some additional takes on it... I went ahead and dropped the coin to buy the book that @Sam referenced above. My hope is that it covers the techniques and exercises of all 3 'levels' in some detail... From the bits and pieces of the 'level 1' exercises that I found on the 'official' website it looks like there could potentially be some useful/practical 'meat' in there even if someone doesn't completely buy into the whole philosophy end of the technique. We'll see... " CreationDate="2011-05-08T03:32:02.720" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18052" PostId="11740" Score="2" Text="I have to admit that for me it is still residing a bit in the same space as, say... Scientology. &quot;We have this wonderful photography technique. It'll change your photographs. You'll LOVE it. But you have to pay to take a bunch of seminars and go through levels of 'mastery' in order to learn it.&quot; :-P It makes me want to write something really concrete about the technique without all the flowery stuff simply so that someone can get the honest gist of it without having to shell out any cash. But I'm not on a crusade or anything... Just curious. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T03:35:14.047" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18053" PostId="11825" Text="Focus-and-recompose is usually used for static scenes, though it's similar to pre-focusing. It's where you *focus* on your subject, then *re-compose*, putting your subject off-center." CreationDate="2011-05-08T04:41:48.733" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18054" PostId="11795" Text="They only way Jay Lance can ask &amp; answer his own question is if nobody else has already asked it, and nobody else provides a better answer. Fair game IMO." CreationDate="2011-05-08T05:00:02.733" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18055" PostId="11825" Text="Thank you.  Could you confirm that the correct order is: 1) Place active AF point over desired focal point 2) Press shutter button half-way to autofocus, 3) Recompose to place centre-point in viewfinder over region to meter from 4) Hit AE Lock button to lock-in exposure, 5) recompose image in viewfinder to the composition for the finally photograph, 6) Fully depress shutter button to take photograph, 7) Release shutter button and AE Lock button (in any order)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T05:13:04.667" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18056" PostId="11733" Text="For a sharper image, you'll need a very thin material having a hole with round edges and size optimal for the distance from sensor. Try searching for &quot;Lenox pinhole&quot; in Flickr and see if the pictures are sharp enough for you." CreationDate="2011-05-08T06:48:14.850" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18057" PostId="11827" Text="Did you test this in spot metering mode, or just evaluative?  They seem to work differently." CreationDate="2011-05-08T06:57:32.170" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18058" PostId="11827" Text="Yes, what I wrote is only with spot metering, since you mentioned that in your question and dpolitts' link said that evaluative metering mode keeps AE settings locked while half-pressing (tried &amp; confirmed).&#xA;&#xA;On another note, if found that when I zoom the settings change to preserve the locked exposure. Nice." CreationDate="2011-05-08T07:59:50.943" UserId="4156" />
  <row Id="18059" PostId="11827" Text="Just realized and tried that: This means that if you've got a zoom lens you can &quot;spot meter&quot; in evaluative mode by zooming in on the subject you want to meter, press AE lock, zoom out and then proceed as above." CreationDate="2011-05-08T08:09:16.083" UserId="4156" />
  <row Id="18060" PostId="11829" Text="Exactly what I was after, thank you!" CreationDate="2011-05-08T09:14:54.920" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18061" PostId="11829" Text="@fmark I aim to please." CreationDate="2011-05-08T09:53:55.933" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18062" PostId="11830" Score="10" Text="That is a _bright_ suit you have there." CreationDate="2011-05-08T10:27:03.987" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18063" PostId="11830" Text="Interesting! Going out of the road is something I can't easily do when cycling... I guess a first rule would be to at least make sure the horizon is included in the pic. Also, any trick to make the slope appear even sharper than real, or is this impossible?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T10:44:08.220" UserId="1498" />
  <row Id="18064" PostId="11713" Text="@dpollitt - it's true you can't upload or print directly from raw files - but than you can't upload and print JPEG2000 either (the only browser that supports JPEG2000 is safari (and even that using a plugin) and virtually no popular image editor has &quot;full&quot; jpeg2000 support) - I understand that raw can never be a final format while JPEG2000 can be in an alternative world where it's actually supported but then again, it would be silly to design cameras for an alternative world" CreationDate="2011-05-08T12:36:54.450" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="18065" PostId="11830" Text="Hey @Matt, is that an Acid EVA spacesuit? ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T13:28:23.567" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18066" PostId="11823" Text="Sadly, we have a Photosmart printer with the memory slots, but that's not simple enough apparently." CreationDate="2011-05-08T13:28:56.047" UserId="134" />
  <row Id="18067" PostId="11823" Text="It is pretty simple with the Canon PIXMA MP560, though." CreationDate="2011-05-08T13:32:58.917" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18068" PostId="11823" Text="Oh. You may want to check other models directly in a store or on HP's website, they have video demos for some. Mine is already 2 years old and I need to press 2 buttons to get any number of prints out. Hopefully they are working on mind-reading printers as the next logical step ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T14:45:25.013" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18069" PostId="11835" Score="5" Text="RAW files are always compressed - but not in a lossy manner (that's why each file is a slightly different size)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:01:18.000" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="18070" PostId="11830" Text="It's just a regular one piece ski suit, right?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:06:54.243" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18071" PostId="11836" Score="1" Text="is the word lossy-ly, or losslesslessy?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:07:53.087" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18072" PostId="11740" Text="@JayLancePhotography - Careful, teaching to who are not ready may result in pneumonia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xenu#Scientology_doctrine" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:10:18.383" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18073" PostId="11674" Text="@Juka Any recommendations on a good P&amp;S then?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:13:41.383" UserId="5031" />
  <row Id="18074" PostId="11839" Score="3" Text="Can you link an example of the problem?  It would help tremendously, mainly to identify the kind of look you're trying to achieve." CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:17:27.447" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18075" PostId="11839" Text="@TrevorMA: is this for &quot;photobooth&quot;-style staged portraits specifically?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:21:19.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18076" PostId="11833" Text="On the last question (&quot;Is the picture quality that different?&quot;), see several of the questions in this list: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/raw?sort=votes&amp;pagesize=50" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:23:08.060" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18077" PostId="11828" Score="11" Text="I think the sign helps. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:26:20.070" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18078" PostId="11840" Text="Frankly, it would surprise me if rembrandt style lighting is what he's &quot;going for&quot;, but I could be wrong." CreationDate="2011-05-08T16:45:17.443" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18079" PostId="11839" Text="is your flash a actual strobe or a hot shoe flash that you have to keep on the camera?" CreationDate="2011-05-08T17:21:45.700" UserId="4738" />
  <row Id="18080" PostId="11836" Text="The key point is that if you take so many bits per pixel, the lowest-order bits will necessarily contain a lot of noise. And if you use a lossless compression algorithm, **you cannot compress the noise**. Therefore raw files are necessarily large. (Whether it makes sense to actually store all that noise is another question. But the very definition of a raw file is that everything that the camera read from the sensor chip is stored in the file, whether it is useful or not.)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T20:07:01.013" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18081" PostId="11835" Text="Interesting - I've seen options for &quot;RAW&quot; and &quot;RAW (Compressed)&quot; so I assumed that they weren't always compressed." CreationDate="2011-05-08T21:12:03.970" UserId="1969" />
  <row Id="18083" PostId="11740" Text="@rfusca: Perhaps that explains the lingering cold that I've had over the last week or so... Hmmm... :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T21:32:04.420" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18084" PostId="11849" Score="2" Text="@Jay: Funny you should mention... I actually worked for a company here in Portland that did this sort of of photography when I was in college a few years ago. You're right that 'yearbook lighting' is the polite term... We used to call it 'idiot lighting' as well as a few terms that would be impolite to mention... Of course we used to refer to ourselves as 'camera monkeys' because we were only given a few hours of training and essentially our job was to say 'smile' and push the button, 'smile' push the button, 'smile' push the button... all... day... long..." CreationDate="2011-05-08T21:40:52.593" UserId="4032" />
  <row Id="18085" PostId="11768" Score="4" Text="I'm curious as to what additional information @ChrisFletcher is looking for beyond what has already been stated..." CreationDate="2011-05-08T21:44:20.237" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18087" PostId="11836" Text="It's not just noise, either -- it's fine detail. Distinguishing between the two is next to impossible, which is why noise reduction algorithms tend to destroy fine detail." CreationDate="2011-05-08T21:56:13.900" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18088" PostId="11841" Text="I would get the Transcend.  Transcend has an excellent track record from pros and amateurs alike." CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:08:37.910" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18089" PostId="11847" Score="1" Text="That was kind of an odd rant, and you didn't even answer his question." CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:09:57.753" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18090" PostId="11841" Text="Just had a similar conversation with about 20 of my local wedding photography pros.  4/5 said they use either Transcend or Sanddisk. " CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:11:37.270" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18091" PostId="11831" Score="1" Text="The [Inception](http://wallpapers99.com/Inception/1152x864-26040.htm) effect. " CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:53:27.017" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18092" PostId="11830" Score="2" Text="@Nicolas To make the slope appear even steeper than it is, you'll need to provide the same sort of angle clues. Find a tree, sign, or something else that _should_ be vertical but is tilting towards the slope. Angle your camera so your tree/sign is vertical in the photograph, and make sure there aren't any giveaways (a whole forest of tilted trees in the background, etc.)" CreationDate="2011-05-08T22:59:56.713" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18093" PostId="11855" Text="@Sean: It's not a *discussion* about different bag styles, it's a *question* about different bag styles. Remember we don't have discussions about things on photo-SE... ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T01:45:17.633" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18094" PostId="11855" Text="Wow, that was one messed up link; no idea how that happened. Discussion, dialogue, question, forum, etc., this site is a little bit of everything, isn't it? (At least it is according to that Venn diagram on the about page.)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T01:48:48.203" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="18095" PostId="11855" Text="@Sean: It may seem like nit-picking about semantics, but check out the FAQ: *&quot;If your motivation for asking the question is “I would like to participate in a discussion about ______”, then you should not be asking here.&quot;* The motivation for all us regulars to *not* refer to things in terms of 'discussions' is that if we think of it in those terms it becomes easier to ask 'bad' questions (or more likely inadvertently lead others who aren't as familiar with the site's policies and format to do-so) Which ends up leading to more administrative work in cleaning up or closing bad questions..." CreationDate="2011-05-09T01:54:10.030" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18096" PostId="11855" Text="@JayLancePhotography - Okay, fair points; I edited it to preserve to union. But I still think discussion happens, especially in the comments and sometimes with one answer referring to and building off another. " CreationDate="2011-05-09T01:58:42.233" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="18097" PostId="11836" Text="@Matt Grum - I think you want losslessly, though I would just phrase it differently - &quot;compressing the data using lossless/lossy compression&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-09T02:19:02.083" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18098" PostId="11841" Text="@dpollitt - Oh god, I have seen SO many issues using transcend CF cards. I would NEVER buy one." CreationDate="2011-05-09T02:20:08.667" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18099" PostId="11778" Text="Have to agree with @Elendil here. This is definitely a photographic use of photoshop (correcting color balance.) Photoshop questions themselves are not inherently off-topic. They are only off topic if they clearly contain graphic design, print design, or non-photographic editing techniques." CreationDate="2011-05-09T03:36:19.353" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18100" PostId="11841" Text="@Fake Name - don't take my word then, look at the reviews from the original posts link to a Transcend card." CreationDate="2011-05-09T03:38:05.213" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18101" PostId="11843" Text="I've had similar issues with Transcend cards...they don't seem to last long." CreationDate="2011-05-09T03:38:31.287" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18102" PostId="11855" Score="1" Text="I'm with Jay on this one - as asked there isn't a good way for someone to post any sort of answer that could be considered &quot;right&quot;.  I'm voting to close this as overly broad.  There have been lots of other questions about bags, if you don't see something answered there go ahead and post a more specific question." CreationDate="2011-05-09T04:08:01.657" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="18103" PostId="8002" Text="I was able to pick up a refurbished Dell u3011 for a little over $800 and am VERY happy with it so far! My next step is to get the 10-bpc images to paper. I am considering a dye sublimation printer to have better gradients and generally better quality prints (plus I HATE inkjets and there clogged nozzles). I would like to purchase the Mitsubishi CP-3020AU but I cannot find it for sale anywhere. May start a new thread about my hunt for a dye sub printer." CreationDate="2011-05-09T04:49:19.120" UserId="2757" />
  <row Id="18104" PostId="11847" Score="1" Text="The differences are MLC vs SLC, and foundry/controller manufacturer vs. Man-in-the-middle.  Sorry if that wasn't clear." CreationDate="2011-05-09T04:52:55.997" UserId="5110" />
  <row Id="18105" PostId="11847" Score="2" Text="I gave him the information he needs to get an understanding of the state of the market for media cards.  I didn't pick one of the three because that would imply a localized understanding of the question, and would make this less of a search for knowledge and more of a &quot;give me a link&quot; plea, both of which might be cause to close this question as a [bad shopping question](http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/).  BTW, I'm approaching the problem from an electrical engineer's perspective, not a consumer's, which might explain some of the confusion.  Hope this helped!" CreationDate="2011-05-09T04:56:59.083" UserId="5110" />
  <row Id="18106" PostId="11854" Score="1" Text="+1 Great question, I was wondering the same myself." CreationDate="2011-05-09T05:18:04.970" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18107" PostId="11842" Score="1" Text="@John: I call foul! ;-) If you're gonna link a technique, at least try to keep it in the family! http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6772/what-is-butterfly-lighting-and-when-do-i-use-it" CreationDate="2011-05-09T06:07:19.663" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18108" PostId="10831" Text="Actually, it *might* improve your AF as well — some AF sensors are more sensitive when used in conjunction with wide max-aperture lenses (i think the threshold is usually f/2.8) so its worth checking if your T2i (or upgraded body) perform better with a wider max aperture. And of course USM is faster than non-USM (i.e. new prime vs your 18-135), so might lock on faster." CreationDate="2011-05-09T06:12:17.127" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18109" PostId="11836" Score="2" Text="@Matt Grum: dwarfland did indeed mean to say that JPEGs are lossy. The grammatically correct adverb form of the adjective &quot;lossy&quot; would have been &quot;lossily&quot;, however." CreationDate="2011-05-09T06:59:36.740" UserId="5112" />
  <row Id="18110" PostId="11858" Text="Have you calibrated your printer *and* screen?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T07:21:27.097" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18111" PostId="11691" Text="@mattdm ok, I confess I didn't check out the price of the D5100 before recommending it. I also think that Pentax has the edge when it comes to advanced features in &quot;entry-level&quot; bodies compared to CaNikon...." CreationDate="2011-05-09T08:14:40.203" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="18112" PostId="11835" Text="At least in the case of Nikon's NEF files, one has a choice of lossless or lossy compression, and some cameras (again, notably, some older Nikon models) also have the option to turn off RAW data compression." CreationDate="2011-05-09T08:26:59.440" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="18113" PostId="11863" Text="I'm sorry, but this question is not related to photography, so it's off-topic on this site. A web developer site would be more suitable for such a question." CreationDate="2011-05-09T08:53:05.253" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="18114" PostId="11841" Text="@dpollitt - What can I say? I've **personally** seen them fail multiple times. That trumps reviews any day." CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:16:51.030" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18115" PostId="11786" Score="1" Text="I hope that fame is not slow in arriving for you!  Thanks for the personal insight.  " CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:41:00.020" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18116" PostId="11784" Text="Thanks, @MPG.  I knew there had to be examples somewhere.  great links.  " CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:42:06.117" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18117" PostId="5099" Text="I really appreciate your personal insight.  thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:44:07.487" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18118" PostId="5102" Text="A nice turning of the problem on its head.  :)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:44:51.560" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18119" PostId="11850" Text="Eureka!  thankyou" CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:54:51.013" UserId="5084" />
  <row Id="18120" PostId="11842" Text="@Jay - Fair, done!" CreationDate="2011-05-09T10:27:15.477" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18121" PostId="11864" Score="3" Text="FWIW, the tripod thread is standardized, so the camera model shouldn't matter much if at all. " CreationDate="2011-05-09T11:16:12.787" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18122" PostId="4479" Text="Alternatively, the value of the used item ought to be the `value of the unused item` * `the percentage of its useful life that has been expended`.  Of course, finding out much of a second-hand item's useful life has been expended is rather difficult.  Note that price is not the same as value, however, which may be mediated by supply and demand factors." CreationDate="2011-05-09T11:46:51.547" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18123" PostId="11865" Score="3" Text="Can you clarify what the &quot;F-Mount&quot; is? Unfortunately Nikon's mount is called that too which makes it hard to search for the term." CreationDate="2011-05-09T11:52:51.243" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="18124" PostId="11528" Text="Can you show a with/without filter comparison?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:07:06.257" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18125" PostId="11865" Score="2" Text="This question is about video cameras, which we've generally determined to be off-topic here. That keeps the focus on still photography. If you're interested in having a place on Stack Exchange for this kind of question, please follow this proposal: http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production" CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:09:13.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18126" PostId="11833" Score="2" Text="For my camera, medium quality JPEG is ≈ 6 MB, and better quality JPEG is 11 MB, Bzip2-compressed RAW is 18 MB (24 MB for uncompressed RAW). So it's often only 2-3 times difference if we are talking about JPEGs of decent quality, but they can surely be compressed as much as you want. Nick Bedford gave a perfect answer." CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:26:38.610" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18127" PostId="11866" Text="Aha - the word I'm looking for is `spigot`! Many thanks, will investigate further." CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:30:52.140" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18128" PostId="11864" Text="I thought it would be but confused by the fact both 3/8&quot; and 1/4&quot; threads are available on things that fit it?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:33:21.530" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18129" PostId="11863" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/7290/21" CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:49:23.933" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="18130" PostId="11869" Score="1" Text="What model of camera do you use, and which autofocus mode(s) have you tried?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T12:54:59.917" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="18131" PostId="11864" Score="1" Text="http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/dslr/D5000_en.pdf page 228. It's definitely a ¼&quot; socket." CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:00:52.733" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18132" PostId="11864" Text="Cool, many thanks. It *shouldn't* be too hard to find a suitable piece of ironmongery now ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:14:06.050" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18133" PostId="11865" Score="1" Text="The F-mount in question _is_ Nikon's F-mount. See http://www.schneideroptics.com/info/faq/industrial.htm#qu6" CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:18:52.290" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18134" PostId="11869" Text="@Rowland Shaw: Pentax K20D, AF-C and AF-S." CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:25:01.970" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18135" PostId="11847" Text="@reemrevnivek - Yes your engineering prowess is showing, and my lack of." CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:32:09.013" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18136" PostId="10597" Text="Sounds like a site in the stackoverflow tradition, designed to provide incentives for individual users that create an overall healthy community.  Thanks for posting." CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:50:39.500" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18137" PostId="11870" Text="Predictive autofocus sounds like a cool thing to have, but my camera doesn't seem to do it (well), or simply the focusing speed is not enough. In AF-C it tends to stick to some focus positions for too long, before it starts readjusting. So it feels like _delayed_ focusing, rather than predictive. But I'll try to test predictiveness of AF-C though. Thank you." CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:53:19.907" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18138" PostId="11869" Score="1" Text="My condolences. Poor AF on moving subjects is probably the worst thing about my K10D, and I think the K20D is not a lot better." CreationDate="2011-05-09T13:55:32.790" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18139" PostId="11871" Text="Looks great, struggling to find a UK supplier though ...&#xA;&#xA;:(" CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:05:54.210" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18140" PostId="11870" Score="1" Text="Now that you added your camera information. I can confirm that it is true. I used to have a K20D and I now have a K-7 and K-5 but neither can do it, which is why I also have a Canon 40D for sports photography." CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:12:35.707" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18141" PostId="11869" Score="1" Text="Nor the newer Pentax models. Continuous autofocus is the weak spot of Pentax's AF system, and this particular case is the worst of it." CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:22:29.247" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18142" PostId="11870" Score="1" Text="It seems I'll have to improve my MF skills..." CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:34:06.970" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18143" PostId="11821" Text="you all have been very insightful. I think its going to take some time, reading, and heavy experimenting to fully understand all of this. When I went digital as a photographer, I just kept shooting and printing. I was never aware of what any of hte color spaces are. Now that I have an idea I feel like I have reached a new step into becoming a better digital photographer and am excited to start learning about color space. &#xA;&#xA;I have been downloading converting to sRGB and re uploading to my website to see if the they are displayed better. The truth is yes, but not as good as the original. " CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:39:53.903" UserId="5094" />
  <row Id="18144" PostId="11865" Text="@mattdm thanks for that information! " CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:43:50.530" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="18145" PostId="11871" Text="I can't find a US supplier either. I think they're small and mostly do direct-sales. They say they'll ship anywhere in the world...." CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:45:52.650" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18146" PostId="2259" Score="1" Text="Are all the downvotes on this question over the price of gas? Really?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T14:56:10.097" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18147" PostId="11871" Text="... at a price approx. 1/3 of the cost of the bloody thing :-(&#xA;&#xA;Plus I *may* get stung for duty once it arrives :-(" CreationDate="2011-05-09T15:22:37.610" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18148" PostId="11768" Text="Yeah, I'm not sure if @ChrisFletcher is looking for more technical facts or what he's after ..." CreationDate="2011-05-09T15:27:19.023" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18149" PostId="11821" Text="My roommate just came in my room who is a web programmer. He changed my website to have a white background rather than a black one and it immediately started displaying the images 100%. How the browser was rendering the images on the white background vs the white background we don't know, but now that my website is white, its working perfectly. Can anyone explain this?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T15:29:13.673" UserId="5094" />
  <row Id="18150" PostId="2259" Text="yeah... seems like it... I guess I shouldn't have given semi-reasonable examples :)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T15:35:09.810" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="18151" PostId="11864" Text="from wikipedia: &quot;The historic standard threading for the bolt that attaches the camera to the tripod is 1/4&quot;-20tpi (threads per inch) British Standard Whitworth (Whitworth or BSW) for smaller cameras or 3/8&quot;-16tpi BSW for larger cameras and pan/tilt heads.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-09T15:48:46.643" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="18152" PostId="2261" Score="1" Text="I don't think the other answers are suggesting that one should _only_ price to cover costs, but that being aware of those costs is important in order to find a reasonable cost." CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:20:12.897" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18153" PostId="2261" Score="1" Text="Production may have no bearing on what the consumer will pay, but they do have a bearing on whether you can stay in business or not.  Don't set your prices for a new business based only on your established competition and disregard your costs.  Especially in this example, you may find yourself pricing against somebody with a much more streamlined workflow or tools that make his work more efficient - *that you don't have.  A new business can't compete on price*.  Set your price based on your costs and your time and if its not competitive with equivalent quality - you're in the wrong business." CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:25:09.310" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18154" PostId="2261" Text="@mattdum - Yup, costs must be considered.  This whole &quot;price only against your competition thing&quot; is *close* to what economists call &quot;predatory pricing&quot; and a business can't stay viable for long when they try to do this.  Photography IS A BUSINESS." CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:28:33.987" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18155" PostId="11821" Text="@David: Can't explain the white vs. black background. From a design/aesthetic standpoint, black usually works better when you are primarily exhibiting the photos, with little other content. White usually works better when the photos are not as forefront and you have other content, like blog text and whatnot. As for the image quality...your converting an already mucked up image. Why are you downloading and converting, rather than regenerating the web images directly into sRGB from your original RAW?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:38:48.187" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18156" PostId="11873" Text="Welcome, Michiel! Is this your site?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:52:42.213" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18157" PostId="11835" Score="1" Text="In older Pentax models, Pentax-proprietary PEF files were compressed, but DNG was uncompressed. On newer models, both are compressed. (But losslessly in either case.)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:55:08.840" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18158" PostId="2261" Text="Keying off competition is a quick way to a losing proposition. I'd have a look at this answer (full disclosure: it's mine) for a good basic ballpark pricing strategy: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7432/how-do-you-determine-how-much-to-ask-for-when-someone-wants-you-to-photograph-a-w/7442#7442" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:55:40.217" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18159" PostId="11880" Score="5" Text="Related: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1520/lens-review-sites" CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:23:04.033" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18160" PostId="11740" Text="@jrista: although there is certainly western &quot;new age&quot; fascination with it, Shambhala is a mythical kingdom described in religious texts over a thousand years old, and dharma is an ancient Hindu concept which is also important in mainstream Buddhism. Neither of these are &quot;new age&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:27:35.160" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18161" PostId="11836" Text="@dwarfland - the RAW file does not contain 12-bit per color per pixel. The information is stored pre-demosaicing, so each pixel is monochromatic. If this is indeed what you meant, I'd suggest making it clearer." CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:31:56.590" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18162" PostId="11740" Text="@mattdm: Oh, I know they are ancient, and I know where they both come from...but they are also fundamental to what we currently call &quot;new age&quot;. Generally speaking...none of it is *new*, its just what its currently called. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:34:49.350" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18163" PostId="11880" Text="Thanks, I'll have a look." CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:36:57.463" UserId="5126" />
  <row Id="18164" PostId="11866" Score="2" Text="About the spigot - you should be careful not to unscrew the thing while hanging your camera. It looks like there is no axis there allowing for free rotation of the carabine, so it ma get loose with time on your body!" CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:39:12.607" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18165" PostId="11740" Score="1" Text="@jrista — &quot;new age&quot; is a particular western movement, with a whole lot of other baggage (including strong roots in pseudo-Christian 19th-century mysticism, astrology, and so on). It's a mistake to lump Tibetan Buddhism in with that — or with Scientology. I just asked a Tibetan Buddhist friend of mine, and he confirms that Chögyam Trungpa is a legitimate high Tibetan lama. That doesn't mean that you have to automatically respect everything he has to say, but the distinction is important." CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:47:05.450" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18166" PostId="11880" Score="1" Text="I would splurge and get the Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS, but that doesn't really answer your question." CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:47:10.163" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18167" PostId="11877" Score="1" Text="I can't tell the difference between these two images (although I haven't tested it by cropping and [differencing the images in photoshop](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11735/how-can-i-tell-exactly-what-changed-between-two-images)).  Have you considered the possibility that you perceive the colours differently based on neighbouring colours?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T17:48:56.683" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18168" PostId="7432" Text="See my answer to a similar question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2255/how-much-should-an-amateur-charge-for-a-portrait-session/11881#11881" CreationDate="2011-05-09T18:00:12.220" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18169" PostId="2255" Text="Also, &quot;American&quot; means US citizen, not the whole continent with the 40 different countries." CreationDate="2011-05-09T18:10:12.240" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18170" PostId="2255" Score="1" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7432/how-do-you-determine-how-much-to-ask-for-when-someone-wants-you-to-photograph-a-w (particularly, @Jay Lance Photography's answer, which isn't wedding-specific)." CreationDate="2011-05-09T18:41:49.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18171" PostId="11881" Score="2" Text="Not to be too picky with a good answer, but I would question a bit of your reasoning in the 'fixed assets' category. One of the interesting things to come out of micro economic analysis of business is that it can make perfect sense to operate at a loss (short term) so long as your variable costs are covered. I.e., you are already out the cost of the camera, lenses, etc. and that is money you won't get back either way. So you might as well (if necessarily) work for $40+$30=$70 in your example. That is your real break-even point. A minor point, because as you said, you do want to make a profit." CreationDate="2011-05-09T20:15:05.840" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="18172" PostId="11847" Text="In a way, it does answer the question. &#xA;It shows that the brand has no significance and it explains the causes behind price difference." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:20:00.660" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18173" PostId="11847" Text="@Vian - I didn't intend to convey that brand has no significance.  I'd like to think that (**On average**) a manufacturer like SanDisk who manufactures both the controller and the memory (and thus has complete control of the whole stack) would be able to provide better quality (at the same price point) than someone who just assembles building blocks like Kingston." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:26:35.533" UserId="5110" />
  <row Id="18174" PostId="11843" Text="A developer for the Chumby had a problem with an SD card, and managed to prove (by dissecting some cards) that some less reputable suppliers do use unethical workarounds.  See this post: http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=918" CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:28:46.950" UserId="5110" />
  <row Id="18175" PostId="11847" Text="I guess what I said was a bit too harsh. All I meant is that in some cases it's not purely just brand. I appreciate that there is significance and value in brand. What I guess I meant was that you explain the underlying reasons why a brand has the product it does. A brand is just representation of what is actually being done by the company. &quot;brand has no significance&quot; is definitely false though. I will admit that." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:33:15.247" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18176" PostId="11880" Text="For what it's worth I have the Tamron and am very happy with it. It's not world-class but for the price they're going for at the moment you can't go far wrong." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:37:35.540" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18177" PostId="11866" Text="Yes, you have to make sure it's good and tight. I still hold the camera while it's down by my side, but it's a lot more comfortable than having it round your neck." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:38:35.617" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18178" PostId="7432" Text="Euro-centric comment here: in Germany often the professional is only hired to cover the most important two or three hours (ceremony, first dance) plus some studio-shots, leaving before the partying begins (standard wedding-party starts early in the afternoon, ends late at night). Price might be 150€ per hour. That does not necessarily include any album or prints or digital results (our 'favourite' wedding photographer for example hands out a disk with his JPGs - last thing he did/does when leaving the wedding party) - post-processing and selling the pictures mostly is where income comes from." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:38:52.507" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="18179" PostId="11880" Text="@ElendilTheTall: Thanks. I did end up ordering the Tamron because the reviews seemed slightly better." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:47:15.010" UserId="5126" />
  <row Id="18180" PostId="11864" Text="I found a great article on lifehacker which I think I'm going to go with: http://abella.net/?page_id=140" CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:47:15.823" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18181" PostId="11868" Text="I like that you mention the camera is designed to function at that high speed. Never quite looked at it in that perspective." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:49:38.813" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18182" PostId="11880" Text="Yeah. When I got it I checked the reviews, which assumed the full price. They said it was good value; I got it for nearly half price so I figured it was worth a shot. And it is." CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:53:57.113" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18183" PostId="11880" Text="Cool. I'll have it tomorrow. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-09T22:19:20.070" UserId="5126" />
  <row Id="18184" PostId="11882" Text="I own a BlackRapid RS-7 strap. Works a treat!" CreationDate="2011-05-09T22:50:32.720" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18185" PostId="11889" Score="2" Text="Pentax calls theirs _continuous mode_, and says this about it: &quot;When the shutter release button is pressed halfway to focus, the camera automatically tracks the subject if it is determined to be a moving object.&quot; That implies some degree of prediction — but the problem is, it doesn't do it very well. I'm a Pentax fan, but this is a weak spot.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-05-09T23:11:59.833" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18186" PostId="2260" Score="1" Text="How much is it to rent a monkey?  How much is the monkey insurance in your area?" CreationDate="2011-05-09T23:44:48.557" UserId="4646" />
  <row Id="18187" PostId="11854" Text="I think this could all come under the one question, don't you think? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11855/how-do-i-choose-a-camera-bag" CreationDate="2011-05-10T00:09:42.900" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18188" PostId="11740" Text="@jrista &amp; @mattdm Yeah, yeah. Bla, bla. I'll be expecting well-researched, comprehensive, lengthy, *high-quality* answers on this question outta the both of you! ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-10T00:11:11.217" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18189" PostId="11891" Score="2" Text="You've made no effort to explain why a 100% viewfinder is cost-prohibitive. What makes a 96% viewfinder affordable, and a 100% viewfinder too expensive? We're talking about something that's a 4% difference on the surface, not factors-of-several difference like f/1.0 vs. f/2.8 or FF-vs-APS-C." CreationDate="2011-05-10T00:19:33.587" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18190" PostId="11855" Score="1" Text="Just buy one of each, thats what we all end up doing anyway. There is no such thing as a camera bag... its ALWAYS camera bags!" CreationDate="2011-05-10T00:21:01.583" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="18191" PostId="11891" Score="1" Text="Don't assume this is a difference in manufacturing cost. Its also comparable cost...along with differential features. Toyota can put a their highest end interiors and electronics in every model car, as it only costs just a bit extra. But if they did, then there would be little difference between models, and you might not be ever interested in a Lexus." CreationDate="2011-05-10T00:33:38.123" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="18192" PostId="11891" Score="1" Text="@cmason: That's one possibility that occurred to me; it's just a way of implementing price discrimination. But that's at odds with your answer above, in which you compared it to features that really do have a substantial cost of implementation. I'd like to know which it is--a cheap market segmentation strategy, or a costly feature to implement (and why)." CreationDate="2011-05-10T00:39:34.333" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18193" PostId="11740" Text="@Jay: I still really haven't had time to put much into researching it yet. :( I still stand by my initial assessment...its very &quot;new-agey&quot;, regardless of the ancient roots of the terms. ;P" CreationDate="2011-05-10T01:00:47.163" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18194" PostId="11893" Text="A complex way to delete them using finder: http://archive.bagelturf.com/aparticles/library/deljpeg/index.php&#xA;An even more complex way to delete RAW files using terminal:&#xA;http://blogs.oreilly.com/aperture/2007/09/getting-rid-of-unwanted-manage-1.html" CreationDate="2011-05-10T01:35:12.067" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18195" PostId="11565" Text="I have tried clearing the cache for images on a one-by-one basis.  That didn't work." CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:02:47.617" UserId="4952" />
  <row Id="18196" PostId="11890" Score="5" Text="Exactly. The precision for a 100% is extremely tight and it takes much more effort to make something more precise than it does to make it slightly bigger. The only ones to offer a lower-cost 100% coverage is Pentax because the CCD-Shift system the use for stabilization is used to place the sensor exactly aligned with the viewfinder not vice-versa. In other words they measure what the viewfinder sees and move the sensor there. So it does not require extremely precise measurements at construction time." CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:12:54.590" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18197" PostId="11864" Score="1" Text="@5arx I'd be worried about that plastic buckle - those things aren't particularly strong, and they make it really easy for a thief to grab your camera." CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:47:13.720" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18199" PostId="11896" Score="8" Text="Please post same images(or links to).  Also, why are you layering shots?  Are you shooting HDR photos?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:59:15.550" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18200" PostId="11898" Text="Link to article quoted: http://www.canonrumors.com/tech-articles/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-myths/" CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:05:52.243" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18201" PostId="1152" Text="@AJ Finch, or you're doing &quot;that sort&quot; of photography... ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:20:50.137" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="18202" PostId="11896" Text="@dpollitt, pretty much all real estate shots are HDRs, at the very least so they can get a view out the window so you can see the yard and the interior." CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:23:00.353" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="18203" PostId="11896" Score="3" Text="Are individual shots blurry or the combined HDR image?  How long were the individual exposures?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T03:32:57.190" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18204" PostId="11899" Text="good point about the lens calibration data!" CreationDate="2011-05-10T04:07:16.823" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="18205" PostId="11803" Score="3" Text="I hate printers." CreationDate="2011-05-10T05:00:41.983" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18206" PostId="123" Text="Haha, very good point." CreationDate="2011-05-10T05:17:22.823" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18207" PostId="11881" Text="@Sean True, but this isn't really a viable long term strategy is it?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T05:55:09.963" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18208" PostId="11786" Text="Most welcome :) Thanks lol" CreationDate="2011-05-10T06:41:59.410" UserId="4776" />
  <row Id="18209" PostId="2260" Text="@florin: In practical usage, you can approximate all monkey-related expenses to the cost of one reasonably tasty banana." CreationDate="2011-05-10T07:08:06.503" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="18210" PostId="1152" Text="@cabbey good point! ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-10T09:22:41.563" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18212" PostId="11901" Text="That's `exactly` what I need!&#xA;&#xA;But the price ... You say 'prohibitive' - I say its more like 'ridiculous'.&#xA;&#xA;I wonder if something similar exists in the world of metal bolts and fixings. Something like a dog-walking carabiner maybe http://bit.ly/ldv3IR ...&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-05-10T09:32:32.333" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18213" PostId="11864" Text="@Evan Krall - I agree. I think I'm just going to use a one piece strap. In any case I don't see the need for those quick-release things in this scenario - once the strap/sling is on it'll stay on." CreationDate="2011-05-10T10:16:26.370" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18214" PostId="11455" Text="I was out again this weekend and ran another 900+ images and didn't have an issue. Ian's suggestion of clearing the cache led me to what I think caused the issue. Most of the time (99%) I pull the card from the camera and copy the images from a memory card reader. For the time in question, I had Bridge open and was pulling the images through the camera body. I'm guessing that as Bridge was reading the images, it hiccuped and caused some incomplete reads and sent them to cache. Maybe even when I recopied them and moved them, the cache is stored by image name and never really re-read the actual " CreationDate="2011-05-10T02:09:09.510" UserId="4952" />
  <row Id="18215" PostId="11896" Text="How large do your images end up being? Do they mostly go on the web and small catalog prints, or are they being printed/dismayed in a larger format sometimes?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T10:27:26.467" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18216" PostId="11841" Score="1" Text="@Fake Name: actually, I think I'd rather trust good aggregate data than either one person or one reviewer's experiences. It could be that you just by very rare fluke got bad examples. (And the same could happen to a reviewer.)" CreationDate="2011-05-10T12:01:15.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18217" PostId="11891" Text="pls see edited response above" CreationDate="2011-05-10T13:18:50.703" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="18218" PostId="11904" Score="1" Text="Are the images 100% crops, or scaled-down versions of the whole image?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T13:52:07.657" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18219" PostId="11904" Text="Someone's doing some technical stuff for their photography class..." CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:16:29.307" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18220" PostId="11879" Text="@JayLancePhotography, please accept this answer.  It clearly and completely answers the question." CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:44:31.007" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18221" PostId="11904" Score="1" Text="Based on &quot;what can be done to improve on the second?&quot;, I suspect you already have an opinion about which one is better.  Would it make sense to turn this into something like &quot;How does a RAW processor function?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:44:43.813" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18222" PostId="11904" Text="@coneslayer: I tried to insert full resolution(1296x984) images into this post, but it seems to have cropped/scaled down. So i dont know exactly what it would have done to scale down. @D.Lambert: Doesn't the second image look noisy with lot of noise in dark areas. @ElendilTheTail:  Not for any class, but this is what I am doing to earn my living!                                                                                " CreationDate="2011-05-10T14:59:15.720" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="18223" PostId="10582" Text="Any links to the astrophotography study? And what counts as a &quot;surprisingly long amount of time&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:04:33.033" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18224" PostId="11907" Text="Do you know if the PodMount swivels or if its fixed to the tripod mount?&#xA;&#xA;Also, it looks like it might be for compacts only?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:22:29.007" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18225" PostId="11904" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean Can you also post some 100% crops.  Although I suspect the noise in the second image is so bad that you won't get sensible answers her until you fix that first." CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:23:53.170" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18226" PostId="11906" Text="&quot;False Color Control&quot; probably mitigates the effect of moiré, a topic which we don't seem to have covered yet on this site. Let's try to fix that... http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11909/what-is-moire-how-can-we-avoid-it" CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:34:42.000" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18227" PostId="11904" Text="Not an answer to your question, but can I ask *why* you are doing this?  If you want to experiment with a single part of the pipeline (and aren't planning to distribute your work) you could privately patch the GPL [dcraw](http://www.cybercom.net/~dcoffin/dcraw/) program." CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:41:05.103" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18228" PostId="11869" Text="Well, I narrowed the question to MF only. I suppose that there might be little tricks to learn here." CreationDate="2011-05-10T15:41:45.780" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18229" PostId="11869" Text="@jetxee — several of the answers already refer to automatic focus. As I learned by changing things too much myself :) it's better to ask follow-up questions separately as new questions." CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:02:11.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18230" PostId="11869" Text="I'd suggest rolling this one back, accepting an answer, and then posting a new one." CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:02:26.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18231" PostId="11869" Text="@mattdm OK, I rolled back." CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:06:34.343" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18232" PostId="11869" Score="1" Text="I'd just like to note that I'd really appreaciate MF tips and tricks." CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:07:04.173" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="18233" PostId="11869" Score="2" Text="@jetxee — If you post it as a new question I'll totally vote it up. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:12:14.057" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18234" PostId="11866" Text="@ysap: Any ideas on how to fix the problem you described? Some sort of swivel between the spigot and the strap?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:13:17.950" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18235" PostId="11904" Score="1" Text="Is the question here &quot;How can I improve the results of my proprietary RAW processing pipeline?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:24:41.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18236" PostId="11912" Score="3" Text="Nice answer... it's worth noting that these noise sources (except JPEG artifacts) are present in the raw data, which is one color (red, green, or blue) per pixel. So the exact appearance of the noise (as &quot;color noise,&quot; etc.) depends also on the details of the demosaicing algorithm that combines data from multiple pixels to form a color image." CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:51:04.683" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18237" PostId="11904" Text="@fmark: I am doing this for my work. I would be interested in contributing to dcraw program.Which algorithm in particular in dcraw? Is it the demosaicing or some other block in it? How can I go about this?  @mattdm: Yes, thats the final goal, so to achieve it, would like to get inputs about comparisons between the two outputs for different image quality parameters." CreationDate="2011-05-10T16:58:41.780" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="18238" PostId="11904" Score="1" Text="photo-SE is neither a photo critique site, or a programming site, so personally, I'm having a hard time seeing how this isn't a better question to be asking over at SO..." CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:05:48.627" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18239" PostId="11913" Score="1" Text="Hi @user5134, this is off topic here as we're related to photography, but not graphic work in general.  Will probably have better luck in the graphic design site.  I&quot;ll ask a mod to move." CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:10:54.390" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18240" PostId="11904" Text="Thus, I'm voting to close it here at photo-SE, and am recommending that it be migrated to SO." CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:11:28.330" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18241" PostId="11904" Score="4" Text="@Jay: If here were looking for implementation advice, I'd agree with a move to SO. But I think he's soliciting input on the relative quality of the output--accuracy of color rendition, noise, etc. The same question could be asked of commercial products like Silkypix vs. ACR, for example. It's not a programming question." CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:21:17.317" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18242" PostId="11906" Text="I'm not positive, but I doubt false color control affects moiré patterns.  If it does, it seems misplaced in the noise reduction section, because moiré is not noise." CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:51:18.390" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18243" PostId="11912" Text="Wow, I thought I understood noise before, but that was quite far over my head." CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:54:23.880" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18244" PostId="11906" Text="@dpollitt: It was a guess, based on the usual meaning of &quot;false color.&quot; I've never used Silkypix. But the truth seems to be that it works on both moire-related false color and color noise: &quot;False Color Control: The software enables to reduce both false colors occur in the fine structure area (high frequency area) and color noise.&quot; The combination seems a little idiosyncratic. http://www.isl.co.jp/SILKYPIX/english/products/ds3/manual/man0006.html" CreationDate="2011-05-10T17:58:42.057" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18245" PostId="11907" Score="1" Text="@5arx: I've never used it so I don't know if it swivels, but it doesn't look like it. The Luma quick-release clasp that goes with their straps *does* swivel, which is maybe why that one doesn't. I don't think it's just for compacts: they make a point of saying you can mount it to lens tripod mounts, and the photo looks like it's mounted on an SLR. Besides, don't all cameras use the same thread size?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:07:08.773" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18246" PostId="11912" Text="@coneslayer-- actually, unless you have a Foveon sensor, the bayer pattern will limit the measured information from the chip to one color per pixel.  Subsequent interpolation of that grid to produce a three-color image will exacerbate any noise that's produced, but is in and of itself not a source of noise.  It does mean that, practically speaking, the noise isn't limited to a single pixel, so removing it can be painful (from a theoretical perspective)." CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:15:03.533" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18247" PostId="11915" Score="5" Text="+1 for example. I liked the lighthouse analogy." CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:21:43.433" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18248" PostId="11912" Text="@mmr Huh? I didn't say that the Bayer pattern or demosaicing was a source of noise. I said that the demosaicing algorithm influences the appearance of the noise." CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:22:30.430" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18249" PostId="11912" Text="curse the foveon! Without that sensor I wouldn't have to say [most] every time I talk about bayer sensors or demosaicing! It is still possible to have noise sources which show up as monochrome or colour that are not the result of demosaicing, e.g. noise in the near visible infra-red spectrum is more likely to excite pixels behind red filters." CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:22:57.030" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18250" PostId="11866" Text="@Craig Walker - look at my answer to this question. Also, if you can get yourself a carabine with the swivel functionality, you have an equivalent solution." CreationDate="2011-05-10T18:30:17.230" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18251" PostId="11916" Text="That first one looks like something from the Apple II application &quot;Brian's Theme&quot;.  :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-10T19:46:31.717" UserId="1490" />
  <row Id="18252" PostId="11917" Score="1" Text="Just frankly not true - esp the &quot;visible at higher ISOs&quot; part and the whole D3s comment." CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:07:20.843" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18253" PostId="11851" Text="Thanks, I have now what I was looking for!" CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:07:31.493" UserId="5111" />
  <row Id="18254" PostId="11919" Score="2" Text="As no single pro could possibly answer for all pros and post processing is HIGHLY dependent on individual style - I'm voting to close.  If you have a question about PP to achieve a certain look on certain kids of shots (ie, how to get a really vibrant sunset or something), try asking that." CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:11:37.967" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18255" PostId="11909" Score="2" Text="When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, that's a moiré" CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:11:49.390" UserId="398" />
  <row Id="18256" PostId="11919" Text="yeah I have specified that , Sunset , sunrise and nature shots, basically natural light not portraits or night shots with flashes or street photography ! " CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:15:23.477" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="18257" PostId="11919" Text="I suspect that in most cases, you're going to end up talking about a workflow for these photos -- pro results are a culmination of steps that work together." CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:33:40.770" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18258" PostId="11919" Score="3" Text="@sat: sunrise/sunset and &quot;nature shots&quot; are still pretty different. I think you'd be better off asking a &quot;how do I do this&quot; question, rather than looking for a &quot;single most used technique&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:46:26.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18259" PostId="11918" Score="2" Text="Have you considered writing answers that don't involve switching to Nikon gear?" CreationDate="2011-05-10T20:48:23.223" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18260" PostId="11918" Score="1" Text="@coneslayer — agreed that that's not very helpful, but it is true that Nikon's continuous AF is better at this. I don't know if they're really the _only_ company, but I don't think this deserves the downvotes." CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:04:06.560" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18261" PostId="11918" Score="1" Text="@mattdm I think it's safe to say that Canon's AF is decent with moving subjects as well, given their popularity with sport shooters. If @Ben hadn't also recommended a Nikon camera in the noise thread, I would not have made the comment. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11910/what-types-of-noise-can-be-present-in-digital-photographs" CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:07:06.697" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18262" PostId="11919" Score="2" Text="@sat: When thinking about what kinds of questions to ask, you can't go wrong with starting by asking yourself &quot;is there a *right* answer to the question I'm about to ask?&quot; If there's not one specific **right answer** to the question that doesn't necessarily make it an 'open and shut case' that the question isn't an appropriate one for photo-SE, but at the very least it's a yellow-flag to yourself that the question may not be a good fit and it may be worth comparing it to the examples in the FAQ (http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq) before you decide to submit it... " CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:38:46.277" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18263" PostId="11691" Text="@gerikson — I think the top two companies have to be more concerned about their entry level models cannibalizing the midrange. Companies with a smaller market share have less to lose in that way." CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:40:04.487" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18264" PostId="11881" Score="1" Text="@fmark - Not long term, no. But for an amateur just beginning to charge for their work, it might be an option to consider. Absent the economic lingo, it would probably go something like, &quot;I have a camera anyway, so I might as well make a little money with it.&quot; This is not the kind of thinking that makes for a good business plan, of course, but it might suit some people who just want to dabble or who are learning while building a portfolio." CreationDate="2011-05-10T22:25:40.830" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="18265" PostId="11841" Text="@mattdm - I'd probably feel the same if I had *one* card fail, but when you get to the point where you have **multiple** identical cards fail (ordered multiple months apart, so it's not just an issue with one production run), I loose faith in it being a fluke." CreationDate="2011-05-10T22:39:52.280" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18266" PostId="11919" Text="One word: Contrast slider :P" CreationDate="2011-05-11T01:20:36.650" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18267" PostId="11724" Text="Sigma 50 mm f/1.4 EX DG" CreationDate="2011-05-11T02:07:39.223" UserId="2371" />
  <row Id="18268" PostId="11879" Text="@DragonLord: Or you'll come burn down my house with your dragon-y fire breath? Lol. ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-11T03:28:40.870" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18269" PostId="11916" Text="@kindall: Must be a matter of timing: I first saw it on a Control Data mainframe drawing to a Tektronix graphics terminal -- which came onto the market in March 1976, just about the same time as the Apple II. I'm not sure about &quot;Brian's Theme&quot; though -- don't think I ever saw that particular one..." CreationDate="2011-05-11T03:34:50.467" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18270" PostId="11922" Score="2" Text="I've had my 55-250mm for almost three years now and I recall that it was well reviewed (given the price, of course) with not many reports of noticeable defects. Is there any evidence that the newer units are an improvement on the older ones?  " CreationDate="2011-05-11T05:58:53.560" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="18271" PostId="11920" Text="Why the downvote? If you downvote, please leave a comment." CreationDate="2011-05-11T06:42:49.467" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="18272" PostId="11917" Score="1" Text="I'm not going to upvote this atm., but I find the (over)simplified statement about the two kinds of noise not too bad. If the stuff about the Nikon is removed, I think this could be a helpful if oversimplified answer :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-11T07:09:28.183" UserId="3338" />
  <row Id="18274" PostId="977" Text="Actually, all Bayer sensors are monochrome with a pattern of color filters installed on top. While not on mass market (perhaps not enough consumer interest?), B&amp;W sensors ARE available. You can order a Canon with removed Bayer filter from http://www.maxmax.com/monochrome_camera_order.asp, or buy Phase One Achromatic+." CreationDate="2011-05-11T07:53:17.100" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18275" PostId="11485" Text="+1 For reducing the amount of light coming onto the sensor!" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:13:34.873" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18276" PostId="11919" Text="@sat I'd advise finding a creative commons licensed image on flickr that you want to replicate the look of, and start a new question asking how it could have been produced (with emphasis on post-processing).  I'm sure you'd get a bunch of insightful answers in that case!" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:22:27.027" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18277" PostId="3378" Text="+1 for making a backup as &quot;non-destructive&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:24:59.040" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18278" PostId="11866" Text="@ElindilTheTall - any chance you could post a photo of your solution in action ...?" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:57:03.337" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18279" PostId="11916" Text="I used to draw similar patterns on my Atari 400. The highest-resolution video mode was nominally a monochrome mode, but if you were using a TV screen, the pixels were small enough that you could hit just one or two of the three (RGB) phosphors, leading to basically the same &quot;false color&quot; effect we get from Bayer sensors." CreationDate="2011-05-11T11:05:44.003" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18280" PostId="11866" Text="I'll see what I can do." CreationDate="2011-05-11T11:58:57.400" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18281" PostId="11879" Text="Of course not... LOL" CreationDate="2011-05-11T12:12:29.023" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18282" PostId="11912" Text="@Matt Grum - Where is the noise we get at high ISO? is it part of &quot;shot noise&quot;? (I'm pretty sure it isn't thermal, read or quantization noise) " CreationDate="2011-05-11T13:07:07.880" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="18283" PostId="11916" Text="Here's a video of Brian's Theme: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SQGNY_shZw" CreationDate="2011-05-11T13:58:51.273" UserId="1490" />
  <row Id="18284" PostId="11918" Text="Listen dudes, if I said something untrue, say it, but dont criticize me for stating the fact.  Yes, Canon AF is very good, and probably even faster at acquiring focus in daylight, but Nikon is better at tracking the subject in focus, and acquiring focus at low light. I know this from personal experience. " CreationDate="2011-05-11T14:30:04.443" UserId="5136" />
  <row Id="18285" PostId="11926" Text="Some people like the look it gives, some don't.  The highlights in the subjects eye can be attractive.  It can be an easy way to somewhat attractively light a portrait session with minimal equipment." CreationDate="2011-05-11T14:30:49.730" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18286" PostId="11918" Text="@Ben: You are phrasing your personal preferences and observations as very strong statements of fact. If something is based on your experience or subjective observations, phrase it as such. For example, you could say that you found the Nikon Foobar 3000 to be superior to the Canon 93 Delta for tracking moving subjects. When your first two answers here involve making very strong claims in favor of a particular manufacturer, without providing evidence, you come across as a shill." CreationDate="2011-05-11T15:15:48.223" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18287" PostId="11787" Text="Do you have any details on what software supports manual processing?" CreationDate="2011-05-11T15:33:41.297" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18288" PostId="11912" Text="@Nir Yeah its part of shot niose. Raising the ISO doesn't create noise as many people think (except a tiny amount due to the amplification process) it merely reveals noise as it amplifies the noise as well as the signal. When you increase the ISO you tend to use a shorter exposure or smaller aperture, so you get more shot noise. If you drop the ISO whilst keeping the shutter and aperture constant you get more noise not less!" CreationDate="2011-05-11T15:40:04.617" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18289" PostId="11478" Text="Also, it doesn't answer the interesting/important parts of the question." CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:13:42.313" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18290" PostId="2517" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6744/how-do-you-handle-the-varying-sizes-of-filters-in-your-kit/6756#6756 for how to cope with different filer sizes." CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:17:08.327" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18291" PostId="11932" Text="The 7D lets me remote control the flash. I will experiment with it a bit." CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:19:17.953" UserId="3171" />
  <row Id="18292" PostId="11919" Text="Thanks all , I have voted to delete this question , I will rethink on all points above posting next time. Unfortunately most of the things I have in mind tends to be subjective !! " CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:28:15.557" UserId="1980" />
  <row Id="18293" PostId="5689" Score="1" Text="I am curious as to why you say the f2.8 is the better lens. Conversely, I could argue that the f4 is the better lens because it is half the price and weight, equally as sharp at f4, and I don't need the wider aperture. Both were built for different purposes." CreationDate="2011-05-11T16:51:53.873" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="18295" PostId="11927" Score="1" Text="Also worth noting that it often tends to produce rather washed out looking colors (an effect your example also shows quite nicely)." CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:07:36.653" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18296" PostId="11927" Text="@Jerry Coffin: you're right. Is that because of the lack of shadows?" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:18:50.553" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18297" PostId="11927" Score="1" Text="@Craig: no -- at least not mostly. Most of it is that with the light so close to the lens, you get a lot of specular highlights reflecting white light directly back toward the lens. Moving the light farther off-axis lets you see the diffuse light more." CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:23:51.393" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18298" PostId="11920" Text="@Kristof I didn't downvote, but the OP was asking for advice specifically from pros and yet your opening statement is &quot;I'm definitely not a pro.&quot; Someone probably felt that you weren't qualified to answer the question..." CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:25:02.690" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18299" PostId="11920" Text="@Jay True, but at least I'm honest about not being a pro. The internet is filled with people who do the reverse :-) And even though I'm not a pro, I do believe I gave some good tips, no?" CreationDate="2011-05-11T17:29:54.573" UserId="1107" />
  <row Id="18300" PostId="11920" Text="@Kristof: Whether they were good tips or not was clearly a moot point to *someone*... and since the question has now been closed it's *really* a moot point." CreationDate="2011-05-11T18:07:44.527" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18301" PostId="2830" Text="@ex-ms: it's up to you, of course, but I think this would be better if it were reverted from community wiki to a regular post. It's a good answer as is." CreationDate="2011-05-11T19:01:25.413" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18302" PostId="11927" Score="2" Text="Do you just like grab a model and you're like &quot;Hey, I need to take your picture two different ways for a website?&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-11T19:19:23.750" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18303" PostId="1498" Text="Alan, what dSLR bodies do not exhibit the &quot;Jello Motion Effect&quot; when panning in video?" CreationDate="2011-05-11T19:21:31.423" UserId="3696" />
  <row Id="18304" PostId="11909" Text="@Kyle, I'm tempted to say &quot;When a guy drops a pun, and he thinks it's big fun, that's a moron&quot;. But then I'd be calling myself a moron, so I won't." CreationDate="2011-05-11T19:35:41.433" UserId="5150" />
  <row Id="18305" PostId="11932" Text="Do also take a look at the links in @ysap 's answer, however I think this better addresses your question." CreationDate="2011-05-11T19:54:52.740" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="18306" PostId="4969" Text="Although capable, this model is far from compact. The smaller-zoom SX130 would be though." CreationDate="2011-05-11T20:14:25.600" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18307" PostId="4958" Text="Look at other models as you may but it does not make them higher quality ;) The Nikon P7000 and Fuji's with SuperCCDs (F70 EXR, F80 EXR, F300 EXR) are ahead in terms of quality and still have long zooms (10-15X). A few more quality compacts exist (Canon S95, Canon S90, Canon G12, Olympus XZ-1) but their zooms are far less than what you are looking for. Since you said 'responsive', I would go with the Fuji F300 EXR, it is the only here to use the same fast focus-system as a DSLR." CreationDate="2011-05-11T20:22:13.330" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18308" PostId="5689" Text="Hi guys thank you for the feedback. I was trying to sell it on amazon marketplace, have since put it on ebay and taken some of your advice. It has some watchers already. Sorry for the off-topic post, and the vagueness, thank you for taking the time to replay :)" CreationDate="2010-12-18T09:33:59.667" UserId="2644" />
  <row Id="18309" PostId="11927" Score="1" Text="@rfusca Yeah, pretty much. " CreationDate="2011-05-11T20:57:19.970" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18312" PostId="4337" Text="@Shizam - Can you moment on the contrast, color, sharpness, IQ?" CreationDate="2011-05-11T22:23:40.103" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18313" PostId="11938" Score="1" Text="The slow shutter speeds caters to a specific style of street photography, but I like it. Gives more of a feel for what's happening." CreationDate="2011-05-11T22:38:52.377" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18314" PostId="3282" Text="I'd agree to get the 50mm f/1.8 II when you're beginning, whether it's in replacement of the kit lens or not. So cheap you can't really go wrong." CreationDate="2011-05-11T22:42:31.500" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18315" PostId="11944" Text="That was quick! ..accepted and thanks" CreationDate="2011-05-11T23:39:24.083" UserId="4209" />
  <row Id="18316" PostId="11947" Score="1" Text="On a crop sensor none of those are going to be wide enough for the poster's goal of landscapes and architecture." CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:48:32.183" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="18317" PostId="4579" Text="As far as my memory goes, AEC on the Av (aperture priority) or Tv (shutter priority) modes does not change ISO, but rather the non-set parameter (shutter or aperture, respectively)." CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:49:08.387" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18318" PostId="11947" Text="This was a mistake in my original formulation. My knowledge of architecture shooting is nil. Sorry again for the error. Also I think @jefferycoffin makes a good point above." CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:54:21.540" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="18319" PostId="11950" Text="CMOS or CCD? An even quicker search would rapidly assure me that just about every dSLR in the 35mm format is CMOS based... :)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:40:23.073" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18320" PostId="11950" Text="@John - Good catch. Corrected, it made no sense given the previous sentence." CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:42:53.177" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18321" PostId="8275" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [Canon Tripod mount ring types](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3453/canon-tripod-mount-ring-types)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:48:02.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18322" PostId="11944" Score="6" Text="&quot;Location, location, location.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:54:59.450" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18323" PostId="11944" Score="1" Text="Thats a whole different kind of weather sealing, eh?" CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:58:37.823" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18324" PostId="11952" Score="3" Text="+1 - Love the quote too." CreationDate="2011-05-12T01:59:05.653" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18326" PostId="11946" Text="I want to point out, I won't only feel the size and weight at the airport.  I literally will have the gear along with my clothing, etc on my back throughout most days of a 3 week long trip.  Unfortunately my style of travel requires this." CreationDate="2011-05-12T02:37:33.993" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18327" PostId="11946" Text="@dpollitt: Yes, if you're carrying everything on your back, you get pretty much the same effect all the time -- and certainly makes your wish for light weight understandable." CreationDate="2011-05-12T02:49:30.157" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18329" PostId="11497" Text="Even if the stitcher can repeat the exact same warps and alignments, there's still a possibility of the camera jiggling by small amounts like 1/2 a pixel.  Depending on the nature of the project, that can be problem. " CreationDate="2011-05-12T03:37:26.890" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="18330" PostId="11493" Text="I automate the HDR step by writing Python programs to process the images. The same tonemap applies to all, along with any other corrections or crazy effects.  Then I stitch.  If I'm not happy with the result, modifying and re-running the HDR step is easy.  " CreationDate="2011-05-12T03:48:45.023" UserId="637" />
  <row Id="18332" PostId="11948" Text="Perhaps a 30mm f/1.4 for the midrange. With the two zooms, a prime might be all you need in the middle." CreationDate="2011-05-12T05:08:15.683" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18333" PostId="11948" Score="1" Text="Or for a standard zoom, the Tamron 17-50 (non VC version) is small, light and very sharp." CreationDate="2011-05-12T06:41:25.167" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18334" PostId="11912" Text="@Matt Grum - thank you for the explanation, I didn't know that - maybe you should add this to the answer so people who don't read the comments will also see it" CreationDate="2011-05-12T07:36:38.880" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="18335" PostId="5147" Text="Many lens hoods cannot be used with significantly larger filters :(" CreationDate="2011-05-12T10:30:44.880" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18336" PostId="11938" Text="@MikeW Do you use autofocus or manual focus?" CreationDate="2011-05-12T11:04:40.523" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18337" PostId="11955" Text="Sweet that worked great, I hadn't thought of using the contact sheet.  I did have to remember to uncheck the Photo Info box to not print the filename as part of the photo too." CreationDate="2011-05-12T11:17:14.657" UserId="4674" />
  <row Id="18338" PostId="3282" Text="@Vian Esterhuizen - not so cheap compared to the price of the kit itself. I'd skip buying this lens at present, get some experience with the kit lens, understand what your needs are and then decide on a fast/better prime or zoom." CreationDate="2011-05-12T14:32:30.840" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18339" PostId="11956" Text="It is worth noting that the update is free from any 3.x version of Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-05-12T15:42:32.737" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18340" PostId="11958" Text="I find it very interesting that you used your 17-55 the most by far, yet you still wouldn't bring it along if you were to chose a 3 lens kit now.  But it sounds like in a 4 kit lens you would then add it back.  Also, you did have a 50mm prime(1.8,1.4,1.2?) that you didn't use at all, so I'm confused why you value the 30mm f/1.4 so much.  Are you simply leaning that direction due to weight?  I very much appreciate your comments and thoughts!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T15:58:54.540" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18341" PostId="11948" Text="@fmark - I cannot believe the reviews I am reading on that Tamron 17-50 as compared to the Canon 17-55.  What a great value that I didn't even realize existed!  My Canon only eyes better expand!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:02:27.143" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18342" PostId="11948" Text="@dpollitt I haven't used a copy, but it is reputedly excellent.  If you must have IS, the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS also has a good name but is heavier and more expensive (but still significantly cheaper than the canon 17-50 f/2.8 IS)." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:06:36.593" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18343" PostId="11940" Score="3" Text="Sounds like a [knapsack problem](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knapsack_problem)!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:07:50.477" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18344" PostId="11764" Score="1" Text="This is really close -- in fact, it gave me the clue I needed to find out what's going on.  It turns out that the implementation of AI Servo mode in the 40D uses release priority for shot #1 and focus priority for subsequent shots.  There is, to the best of my knowledge no way to adjust this behavior, short of upgrading." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:09:06.137" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18345" PostId="11959" Score="1" Text="@drfrogsplat You sir, deserve some type of badge for answering the question multiple times completely differently :-)  Well done." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:09:34.547" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18346" PostId="11904" Text="@Jay Lance Photography: I don't think my question was soliciting any advice/input related to programming. So SO is out of question. I have seen many posts here on photoSE in which users have posted images and asked for comments on the 'quality' of the photo or inputs about various aspects of the photograph. The answer given below, definitely adds value to the forum and hence the question can stay open and if possible  get more constructive, useful, relevant answers." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:17:50.700" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="18347" PostId="11968" Text="So you're answer is: &quot;there are no mistakes&quot;? " CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:23:36.670" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18348" PostId="11968" Score="3" Text="Nah, my answer is: it's a mistake to get hung up on mistakes. From the end of the essay: &quot;The idea is to put a pick in one hand and a guitar in the other and with a tiny movement rule the world.&quot; In this case it's a camera instead of a guitar, but that's a minor detail." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:31:31.200" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18349" PostId="3282" Text="50mm for a APS-C camera is waaaay too tele to begin with photography. I've definitely recommend the 18-55mm kit lens for a begginer. They are quite well and allows you to zoom in to a decent range. If money isn't a problem, I would recommend a 35mm lens (for that type of sensor)." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:37:12.900" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18350" PostId="11970" Text="Yeah, great link, thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:52:20.830" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18351" PostId="10772" Score="1" Text="@All: It might be useful if someone packaged up summaries of the most appropriate references and provided an answer to this question. This was a great question, but it never really received any answers." CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:01:48.433" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18352" PostId="11968" Text="The essay also has excellent advice on choosing a camera brand." CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:07:07.613" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18353" PostId="11972" Score="6" Text="I saw somebody using their popup flash for a sunset shot shooting off the top of a cliff - I actually laughed out loud at them.  " CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:22:47.703" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18354" PostId="11972" Text="Don't most systems now use some form of TTL flash metering that alleviates the exposure issue?" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:23:35.193" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18355" PostId="11972" Text="Yeah, I think usually these days it's just annoying and wastes batteries — the pictures come out fine. Which doesn't provide any incentive to stop doing it. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:43:19.910" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18356" PostId="11971" Text="+1 to asking questions here." CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:44:09.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18357" PostId="11940" Text="@fmark - It absolutely is!  You should see me shaving down my toothbrush to save on ounces!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:44:24.713" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18358" PostId="11971" Score="1" Text="-1 for the flattery, though. really, other people here deserve being mentioned more than me. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:44:57.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18359" PostId="11972" Text="A lot of cameras use TTL but I would not say most. Maybe most very recent ones? I did not do the stats, so this is my educated guess." CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:48:14.710" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18360" PostId="11967" Score="2" Text="I don't know if Michael Johnston is scoping Photo.SE for story ideas or what, but he just posted this: [The Three Biggest Mistakes Amateur Photographers Make](http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2011/05/three-biggest-mistakes.html) (Not necessarily *beginner* amateur photographers...)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:48:38.593" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18361" PostId="11941" Text="While I applaud your unique solution, I believe a single prime will ultimately be too limiting.  I enjoy single day exercises such as this, but for a multi-week trip, there is no way I am ballsy enough to do that!  Agreed that is if a single lens ultra minimalist kit was wanted, this would do it!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T17:56:26.590" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18362" PostId="11971" Score="2" Text="This bothers me a little bit.  Maybe your answer is geared towards &quot;beginner to DSLR photography who has a lot of experience in regular photography&quot;.  The first step for a newbie should not be buying $4000 worth of lenses!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:00:31.713" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="18363" PostId="11944" Text="As for equipment; Was this taken with the hasselblad? " CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:00:54.210" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="18364" PostId="11971" Text="@khedron Ditto, I think *spending* $5,500 on camera gear would be a mistake in my case, since I'm sure I wouldn't be making the most of it (and it close to half my annual income!)." CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:09:27.570" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18365" PostId="11948" Score="1" Text="@fmark - from what I read here and there, my impression is that the problem with the 3rd parties is not necessarily the image quality, but rather the manufacturing and QA. That means that although the optical design is great, the chances of actually getting a great copy are lower than the brand names. That said, I don't have any personal experience with these." CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:10:04.330" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18366" PostId="11967" Text="If he is, it looks like it's a good way to drive traffic to his blog!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:12:17.673" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18367" PostId="11971" Text="@fmark: When the baby was born, I moved from a point-and-shoot (Canon S70) to the Canon T1i with the kit 18-55 lens.  I bought the 50mm f/1.8 (II), and the Canon 55-250 so I could take pictures of birds at the bird feeder.  Equipment-wise, I think that's a lot of capability!  I have a lot to learn about composition, when to override the camera's automatic settings, etc.  And my wife loves the baby pictures. =)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:16:20.557" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="18368" PostId="11971" Score="1" Text="@khedron Yeah, we mainly bought our 550D to document my partner's art now that she has started selling her work so we only have the 50 f/1.8, but its opened up a whole new world of photography to me.  So many pictures to make even with only one focal length!" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:41:38.510" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18369" PostId="11972" Text="@rfusca - How do I promote that to comment of the year?" CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:43:34.710" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18370" PostId="11970" Text="Also, +1 for including suggestions on how to address the problems." CreationDate="2011-05-12T18:44:08.367" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18372" PostId="11973" Text="&quot;landscape with 90% boring blue sky&quot;: http://www.wallcoo.net/nature/sky-photography-01/html/wallpaper7.html" CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:17:58.757" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="18373" PostId="11976" Score="3" Text="Or tormenting you with questions like &quot;What are common beginner mistakes in photography?&quot; ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:19:12.193" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18374" PostId="11974" Text="I would say, many famous photographers use this method (&quot;hope for Lady Luck&quot;) - so if it works, why not? There are mistakes much worse beginners do" CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:21:43.200" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="18375" PostId="11970" Text="+1, especially for point 3." CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:24:11.750" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18376" PostId="11972" Score="2" Text="Not only in sun day. But these scared faces over night without any background (just a black mess). And they show such a picture to you and say: &quot;- Look, there is a monument behind!&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:26:38.380" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="18377" PostId="11967" Score="3" Text="This looks to me like it's more appropriate for community wiki, there's no &quot;right&quot; answer here to accept." CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:28:02.983" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18378" PostId="11973" Score="2" Text="@Genius - your math sucks if thats 90% sky to you and its not a boring sky either" CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:33:56.777" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18379" PostId="11973" Score="1" Text="it isn't really a very good photo either" CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:38:33.387" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18380" PostId="11967" Text="@JohnCavan - I completely agree." CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:46:58.663" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18381" PostId="11980" Score="5" Text="In my experiences, you rarely have trouble with other photographers at weddings. Once in a while they get in the way, but for the most part they are friendly and just want to talk equipment with you. But covering your ass is exactly what a contract is for. So I don't see a reason why not to include details on acts of god and guest behavior." CreationDate="2011-05-12T19:59:30.683" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18382" PostId="11979" Text="Spot on mmr.  In Minnesota here, weddings get cancelled all the time for crazy snow storms.  I think it is fair to hold onto the deposit.  The B&amp;G usually reschedule with me at a later date anyways." CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:01:05.470" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18383" PostId="8275" Text="@fmark: Good for you. Why is this comment (from a thread that's now 3 months old, no less) directed at me?" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:03:14.570" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18384" PostId="11970" Text="I'm curious as to the downvote.... any comment?" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:22:32.020" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18385" PostId="11973" Score="1" Text="I think the main issue with &quot;Uninteresting&quot; is that it is hugely subjective - it depends on the intended audience, that audience's interests etc." CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:22:46.093" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18386" PostId="11938" Text="If I have 28mm and can focus on infinity I'd use MF.  Otherwise I use AF.  It's hit and miss, but I do better with AF than MF if I'm not looking through the viewfinder.  Can set the camera up to only fire if focus locked, so as long as it's focused on the right thing! (I'd use single centre focus point)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:23:24.327" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="18387" PostId="11971" Score="1" Text="On the suggestion of spending a lot of money to start: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/the_online_photographer/2010/05/letter-to-george.html" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:25:39.053" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18388" PostId="2604" Text="You're right. What I was confused about is that when you cut you get this partially transparent border (feather?) with both the 'hole' left and the bit in the clipboard and when you paste to a layer above and align the piece with where it was in the layer below you don't get the original image because of the way the two overlapping transparent regions get combined. So it is still partly transparent and I was expecting to get the original completely opaque image." CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:27:01.280" UserId="532" />
  <row Id="18389" PostId="11977" Text="This thread might help you to build a contract if you don't have one already: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11702/what-resources-can-you-suggest-to-help-me-write-contracts" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:27:04.403" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18390" PostId="11973" Text="@JamWheel - true enough, but I'm sticking with it." CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:30:00.997" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18391" PostId="11973" Text="@JamWheel that's what I meant. Math is not to blame ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:32:11.090" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="18392" PostId="11967" Text="I very much disagree. See http://meta.stackoverflow.com/questions/55888/when-to-mark-the-community-wiki-checkbox-on-a-new-question and http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1008/please-dont-use-community-wiki-as-a-flag-for-more-subjective-questions; the effect of community wiki is to decrease ownership in answers, which is good for simple, factual list-based questions but poor for open/subjective ones. CW shouldn't be a flag for &quot;there's no one right answer&quot;, because the technical things it does don't match that. (If the question is _too_ subjective, it should be closed, not made CW.)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T20:45:55.253" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18393" PostId="11876" Score="1" Text="Note that the rings in these plates are not designed to take any weight and I have heard stories of cameras falling to ground after the ring has spread out under the weight. So if you do go for something like this make sure that it is sturdy enough." CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:00:28.107" UserId="3521" />
  <row Id="18394" PostId="11982" Text="I like this one, it's one I never would have thought of until I was stuck in the situation." CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:35:11.133" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18395" PostId="11982" Score="1" Text="Priests, ministers, and the like often impose limits on what you can and can't do during the ceremony. It is always a good idea to make sure that the B&amp;G understand that one up front, because most of them have no idea.  Good addition to the discussion ahockley." CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:37:46.433" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18396" PostId="11977" Text="Another related question with lots of contract tips: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9898/what-are-some-photography-contract-gotchas-or-must-haves" CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:39:35.217" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="18397" PostId="11971" Text="@mattdm:  Heh, nice.  I'm glad to hear it was a fictitious story, but it seems to resonate with people a lot.  See also the &quot;how I got started&quot; entry from the founder of LensRentals.com:  http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/07/lenses-dont-collect-the-whole-set" CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:46:33.633" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="18398" PostId="11975" Text="You get what you pay for  :-/" CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:49:35.423" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18399" PostId="11967" Score="3" Text="@mattdm: How exactly is &quot;What are common beginnier mistakes (plural) on photography?&quot; NOT asking for a list of probable mistakes? As far as I can tell, there is not a &quot;right answer&quot; here, and just about any answer supplied would be useful and valuable so long as it wasn't substantially incorrect." CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:51:24.157" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18400" PostId="11967" Text="@jrista - I think it's too subjective for CW to be really useful. I think the question is more likely to attract more good, valuable answers as _not_ community wiki. But maybe I'm wrong -- I'm happy to go along with what everyone thinks on this. " CreationDate="2011-05-12T21:59:59.810" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18401" PostId="11972" Text="My favorite was someone using pop-up flash taking a picture out an airplane window at 30,000 ft.  I wonder how that one turned out! :)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:18:58.003" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="18402" PostId="11967" Text="Personally, I think the information should be here but its far too subjective to have a correct answer.  Best case I think should CW, but if not close." CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:23:14.273" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18403" PostId="11979" Text="What about if you, the photographer, are taken ill last minute, or car breaks down and are either late or miss the ceremony? " CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:24:27.670" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="18404" PostId="11967" Text="Note 373 views in 6 hours. For whatever that's worth." CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:26:31.740" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18405" PostId="11979" Score="1" Text="Last minute = find a replacement fast (and I know several people for this kind of thing-- nothing's a guarantee, but it's good to know them).  Car breaks down = scramble to get help, or call a cab and leave the car behind until it can get handled.  I always aim to be there many hours ahead of time, and if locations are moved in the middle (ie, shoot prep in one place and then ceremony in another), well, I haven't had a problem with transportation yet (knock on wood...)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:28:17.130" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18406" PostId="11982" Text="This is very good advice.  Having to shoot everything from a balcony on a tripod with what is essentially a telescope does limit the kind of shots the couple can get, through no fault of the photographer." CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:29:09.393" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18407" PostId="11967" Score="1" Text="Yeah, I have to say that this seems exactly like the sort of thing we *should* be flipping over to CW... Great information that we want to keep hold of, but no single definitive right answer..." CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:29:13.653" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18408" PostId="11970" Score="1" Text="I gave it a -1 'cause everyone knows it's impossible to be *too* caught up in equipment. ;-) (and only kidding about the -1, it was really a +1. Solid points there IMO)..." CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:32:10.220" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18409" PostId="11973" Text="Man, that sure is an awesome picture of your shoe! ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:41:07.007" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18410" PostId="11973" Text="@JayLancePhotography - careful, its awesomeness will haunt your dreams." CreationDate="2011-05-12T22:49:41.680" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18411" PostId="11970" Text="@Jay — ha. Thanks. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-12T23:01:16.643" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18412" PostId="11876" Text="@Dan - that's a very good point. Thanks for the warning." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:05:15.143" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18413" PostId="11991" Score="2" Text="Using feet changes the perspective." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:09:50.043" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18415" PostId="11991" Text="@Jukka - Point taken." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:12:54.790" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18416" PostId="11973" Score="2" Text="Crop the shoe pic square, add some vignetting, cross-processing effects, maybe some scratches, and it'll be a good photograph. At least that's my understanding based on the Internets." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:17:43.520" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18417" PostId="11991" Text="My intuition says you got it backwards. Replacing a 50mm on a full-frame with a 33mm on a cropped-sensor changes perspective. Using your feet with the same lens on the FF and cropped-sensor gives the same framing with the same perspective." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:35:15.527" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18418" PostId="11989" Text="Damn, I've forgot to add &quot;without changing the lens&quot; to the question. Good answers, although." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:37:56.737" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18419" PostId="11991" Score="1" Text="@Itai - your intuition is wrong this time. Perspective is a function of one, and only one parameter - the positioning of the camera in the scene  (that is, setting your viewpoint - your perspective on the world)." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:39:01.053" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18420" PostId="11974" Score="2" Text="I disagree with this answer. Thinking and preparing is a great way to never shoot anything. In art, the way to achieve quality is through quantity; shoot a ton of photos and pick the best one. Read Art and Fear, there's a great anecdote in there about sculpture students." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:39:38.323" UserId="5164" />
  <row Id="18421" PostId="11991" Text="@yasp - Take a look at the video linked in the question. Now that I saw it, it seems most likely. Perspective is a function of focal-length actually and I do not believe the crop-factor can affect that." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:51:35.083" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18422" PostId="11991" Text="@Itai - faulty intuition this time, I'm afraid. Call it crop factor or focal length multiplier, it means that 33mm x 1.5 gives you an approximate 50mm lens on APS-C." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:52:59.840" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18423" PostId="11991" Text="@Itai - Crop the FF stills to the same field of view as the APS-C and I think you'll find that perspective is the same." CreationDate="2011-05-13T00:55:49.903" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18424" PostId="11989" Score="2" Text="@Andres — you can edit the question to add that. We've got a number of questions along these lines (see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/crop-factor), and that's kind of a unique twist. " CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:01:17.947" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18425" PostId="11987" Text="I'd guess they used a snoot.  Strobist probably has something pretty similar to this somewhere on their site." CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:02:12.900" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18426" PostId="11958" Text="Yeah it was mostly weight and size that made me want to swap it for a 30. I didn't use the 50mm f/1.8 so much because the 17-55 and 50-250 both had approximately that focal length, but a 30 would have meant a much smaller &amp; lighter lens without too much of a gap between 10-22mm, 30mm and 55-250mm." CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:08:36.983" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18427" PostId="11942" Score="1" Text="Would have *loved* a tilt-shift lens on my recent trip, but I suspect I would have spent way too much time setting up the shots (as I'm a complete novice when it comes to TS). It may be more of a distraction than its worth, unless you're pretty comfortable with using one already..." CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:14:55.223" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18428" PostId="11958" Text="Though, now that you mention it, if I actually *had* a 70-200 or 70-300 (rather than the 55-250) I'd probably want more than just the 30mm in the middle there, since 70 is getting quite a bit longer than 30..." CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:35:57.633" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18429" PostId="11991" Score="1" Text="@Itai - I am not sure I understand &quot;it seems most likely&quot; - most likely like what? Then again, perspective is *not* a function of the focal length. The FoV is, but not the perspective. Perspective means the relative size and position of objects in the scene, as projected to the image. This can be controlled *only* by the positioning of the camera in the scene (world). Any movement of the camera will essentially change the relative positioning or sizes of objects in the image." CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:38:40.410" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18430" PostId="11991" Score="3" Text="@Itai - note that in the video, the position of the camera and the subject were constant. You can see how the only difference in all the images is the amount of cropping, even though the focal lengths and the sensor sizes were replaced several times." CreationDate="2011-05-13T01:43:23.153" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18431" PostId="11931" Text="I'm not sure that manual focus is strictly necessary — in ye olde days you'd have needed the distance scale to focus approximately (and f/8) but with a high speed, quiet AF (like USM/HSM) it seems a bit unnecessary to manually focus." CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:06:55.207" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18432" PostId="11957" Text="Worth being aware of how your autofocus works too — on most cameras it'll focus on the closest thing in the scene that covers any of the AF sensors, so if there's a lot of clutter in between you and your subject (e.g. shooting through branches, wire fence, or some hole in the wall for framing) then you'll need to use manual focus." CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:10:39.790" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18433" PostId="11989" Text="@mattdm Changing the question would render the current answers invalid, but well..." CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:16:26.243" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18434" PostId="11931" Text="The biggest problem with autofocus (in this case) is that you aren't actually looking at the image that is being captured, so you can't ensure that you are actually focused *on your subject*." CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:34:03.623" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="18435" PostId="11978" Text="Looking at a photo after an event the other day, I thought I had cut off everybody's feet. I was quite embarrassed and disappointed in myself. Then I realized I had actually just zoomed into the photo without noticing, and the picture was fine ... I was equally embarrassed." CreationDate="2011-05-13T02:40:52.107" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18436" PostId="11992" Score="7" Text="I have to say, I actually preferred the first shot. It had a lot more depth and contrast to it, the second looked washed out and plain. Sorry, you may need a better example... :)" CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:17:43.450" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18437" PostId="11998" Text="Assuming you shoot the big 2, not all of us do." CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:18:47.207" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18438" PostId="11976" Text="Bingo! I agree, 100%. It can get far worse than that too... It gets to the point where some think it's the gear that makes the image." CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:24:31.303" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18439" PostId="11967" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - Part of the premise of the site is that general questions have an answer that can be accepted. This is not such a question, I think, there will be a lot of answers that are equally valid. Such a question then can be closed as subjective, a vote for this already exists, or it can be more generally informative as a wiki page. I think wiki makes sense here, it can be useful and, as a wiki, is more open to editing than it would be otherwise and that, hopefully, leads to more useful outcomes." CreationDate="2011-05-13T03:27:57.977" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18440" PostId="11973" Score="1" Text="@coneslayer - better? ;0 http://i.imgur.com/oyFC5.jpg" CreationDate="2011-05-13T04:09:35.680" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18441" PostId="11992" Score="1" Text="I have to agree with @JohnCavan. The first photo would have been quite impressive had the flash been zoomed/snooted/shielded keeping it from spilling on the pavement. Certainly more interesting than the second one where the light sky grabs attention away from faces." CreationDate="2011-05-13T05:24:42.870" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18442" PostId="11974" Text="@Genius - could you name a couple of examples, and why do you think they play only for luck? &#xA;&#xA;@jhocking - why would you think about  what would make a photo &quot;best one&quot; only during picking, but not on the scene? Will you even shoot the best one to pick it later? Should you make 50 sculptures and THEN pick the best one each time? In context of the question, when I see a beginner thinking and preparing too much, I'll make sure to edit my answer." CreationDate="2011-05-13T05:47:06.127" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18443" PostId="11989" Text="@Andres: That's okay. Most will update their answers accordingly." CreationDate="2011-05-13T05:50:53.900" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="18444" PostId="11995" Score="2" Text="I'd say the shadows look exactly like a pop-up flash in portrait orientation." CreationDate="2011-05-13T07:08:56.977" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18445" PostId="11974" Text="@Imre, **James Nachtwey**" CreationDate="2011-05-13T08:12:43.370" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="18446" PostId="11986" Text="PP-wise, I'd say it was a straightforward Overlay or Soft Light layer, with perhaps a desaturated Multiply layer Levels adjusted to bring the light back up." CreationDate="2011-05-13T08:38:50.720" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18447" PostId="11992" Text="darn, well thanks for the feedback!" CreationDate="2011-05-13T11:08:48.790" UserId="5164" />
  <row Id="18448" PostId="11995" Text="Ahh I didn't think of that. Why the down vote (whoever it was) though??" CreationDate="2011-05-13T11:16:02.213" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18449" PostId="11967" Text="@John: many questions on the site have more than one good, correct answer. I know that it's ideal to have a perfect one, but that's often not the case. CW doesn't change that aspect of the site's functionality at all — there's still only one ✓. What it does do is  punish the questioner (no rep), and discourage good, thoughtful answers — no rep, but also, no personal ownership (equals investment in) answers. Making posts easier to edit is great when they're simple, factual lists, but counterproductive for _good_ subjective answers. I understand what you guys want, but CW isn't the tool for it." CreationDate="2011-05-13T12:36:47.507" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18450" PostId="12007" Text="On Flickr, this is referred to as a &quot;bokeh panorama&quot; - mostly because if you use a lens with a longish focal length, you can emulate a wide-angle with very small depth of field. A [Flickr group dedicated to this](http://www.flickr.com/groups/1040743@N20/)." CreationDate="2011-05-13T12:40:58.360" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="18451" PostId="12003" Text="You don't use bulb for fireworks but the other examples given are correct" CreationDate="2011-05-13T12:41:02.883" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18452" PostId="12003" Score="5" Text="You can use - and I have used - bulb mode for fireworks. " CreationDate="2011-05-13T12:44:20.980" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="18453" PostId="11967" Score="1" Text="See http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/, particularly point 2: _Great subjective questions tend to have long, not short, answers. The best subjective questions inspire your peers to share their actual experiences...._ CW's decrease of ownership works against that." CreationDate="2011-05-13T12:52:22.077" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18454" PostId="12005" Score="1" Text="+1 Excellent observations!  That's a simple way to get the vignetting, too: use a very wide angle lens." CreationDate="2011-05-13T12:58:55.073" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18455" PostId="11989" Score="3" Text="Without changing the lens? Leave the 50mm on the FF, the 35mm on the APS-C. No lens change required ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:08:15.720" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="18456" PostId="12003" Text="Personally my favorite use is those &quot;dreamy&quot; shots of running streams in the woods (of wavy water surface) where water looks like silk. Tripod and a shutter cable is a must have for this type of photography." CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:22:19.433" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="18457" PostId="12003" Text="Indeed, bulb mode is very popular for fireworks to compose multiple fireworks into one more impressive photo." CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:24:26.763" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18458" PostId="11966" Score="1" Text="I went with the 18-55 lens. The main reason was just because I wanted a cheap lense to start with and saved the money for other lenses. After all I'm happy with the results in this zoom range, but now after a half year of usage, I think I should have bought the other one -- my second lense was a used Canon 28-135mm lense. I could have saved money and some lense-changing if I went with the 18-135mm from the beginning." CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:28:39.963" UserId="1387" />
  <row Id="18459" PostId="11936" Text="I'd think about this twice before switching to a dead branch …" CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:45:06.563" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="18460" PostId="12007" Score="1" Text="Yeah, I've never liked the term - a &quot;bokeh panorama&quot; is just a multi row panorama there's nothing special about it, photographers have known about the depth of field considerations when shooting panoramas for ages. Most of the images I've seen could have been done with less effort by shooting one wide and one tele shot and blur the wide shot to match..." CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:47:44.627" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18461" PostId="11989" Text="@Simon lol, clever!" CreationDate="2011-05-13T13:56:37.380" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18462" PostId="12009" Text="Wouldn't a lens hood leave slightly curved shadow?" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:03:34.700" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18463" PostId="11986" Score="1" Text="I don't think that Canon XSi's internal flash has so steep dropoff that it won't be able to cover bottom 10% of the image without using an ultrawide lens, which was not used. Unless it's been covered on purpose." CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:05:06.227" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="18464" PostId="12009" Text="depending on the shape of the hood I guess. Could also be a centre crop of the image. Looks very much like a lens hood-flash effect though. It could be some other obstruction such as a table. I doubt this is a post processing burn." CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:21:22.057" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="18465" PostId="11877" Text="I thought about that, but its been shown to 4 pairs or eyes and they all agreed. My monitor is actually adjusting the image contrast based upon the abundance of white or black around it, I even created two layers in Photoshop. A giant white and black border. Then I toggle through them its made very apparent that the images are changing, and offline. Its something my monitor is doing. My worry is that I am not sure what the public is seeing, the increased or reduced contrast. " CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:24:34.487" UserId="5094" />
  <row Id="18466" PostId="12011" Text="This answer might be an artifact of how I edited the title. The question was about getting the effect of the _wider_ focal length on the smaller format." CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:53:39.333" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18467" PostId="11991" Text="+1 for &quot;panoraming&quot; the image" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:57:45.830" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18468" PostId="11995" Text="@Nick Bedford It was entirely accidental.  Could you edit your answer so I could remove it, and I'll delete this comment?" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:58:50.323" UserId="4112" />
  <row Id="18469" PostId="11985" Text="Hi Melissa-- just curious, why do you think your question would get bashed?" CreationDate="2011-05-13T14:59:16.643" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18470" PostId="12011" Text="The question was the other way around. How to achieve a FF composition with an APS-C." CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:01:16.450" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18471" PostId="12011" Text="Oops, didn't notice the change you made in the title, @mattdm" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:02:03.517" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18473" PostId="11981" Text="I think that walking clients through the whole thing shows really professional style, and I will endeavour to do likewise from now on.  I can see that your actions have turned things from being a big legal problem to being not a problem at all.  Nice.  Thanks for the advice. " CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:14:31.070" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18474" PostId="11979" Text="@mmr &quot;... many hours ahead of time ...&quot;  amen to that!  That single precaution can save many many tears!" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:18:20.067" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18475" PostId="12004" Text="I would add, that with today's technology, you don't necessarily have to hold down any buttons.  You can enter and exit bulb mode via remote control methods as well.  Some of these allow you to hit the button, leave for an hour, then come back to finish, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:24:51.573" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18476" PostId="12015" Text="Note that the D10 does not have a wide-angle lens." CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:28:43.627" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18477" PostId="12011" Text="@Andres — _trying_ to capture the whole thing succinctly turns out to be hard." CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:31:07.643" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18478" PostId="12011" Text="OK, fair enough." CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:31:14.147" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18479" PostId="12015" Text="Canon D10: 35-105mm" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:34:37.657" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18480" PostId="12015" Text="Exaclty! Wide-angle is considered around 28mm. 35mm is pretty standard and where most non-wide digital cameras start. Luckily we see more and more wider lenses, up to 22.5mm ultra-wides now." CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:38:39.357" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18481" PostId="12016" Score="1" Text="Yeah, I agree with you. I really like @JayLancePhotography's answer on a similar question. http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11977/should-i-have-a-wedding-contract-provision-for-actions-outside-my-control/11981#11981" CreationDate="2011-05-13T16:07:09.897" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18482" PostId="12016" Text="Just noticed when linking that answer you actually commented on it. :P I'll leave the link for reference though." CreationDate="2011-05-13T16:08:58.803" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="18483" PostId="12015" Text="I agree.  I would still consider the D10.  As you suggested in your answer, more compromises may be in order." CreationDate="2011-05-13T16:45:08.057" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18484" PostId="12018" Text="Absolutely fantastic example.  I looked through those and gave off some expletives in disbelief.  I think I should dust off my P&amp;S this weekend and give the SLR a break!" CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:32:03.423" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18485" PostId="11993" Score="2" Text="There really needs to be more information here - especially if you're going to reference something as dynamic as Facebook." CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:42:55.363" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18486" PostId="11973" Text="When was the last time you vacuumed" CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:44:45.013" UserId="4246" />
  <row Id="18487" PostId="11973" Text="@ben - its an Arkansas spring, mud/dirt is part of life.   You vacuum daily just to not have a solid brown carpet.  Thats probably 5 or 6 hours old on vacuuming." CreationDate="2011-05-13T17:47:03.050" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18488" PostId="12018" Text="Wow.  That guy is doing things with that camera that I did not think were possible.  But how well do they print?" CreationDate="2011-05-13T18:17:03.417" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18489" PostId="11998" Text="My guess is renting doesn't make economic sense for most people. Why not just buy on Amazon and take advantage of their excellent return policy (assuming of course there is a decent chance you would want to keep the lens)?" CreationDate="2011-05-13T19:09:32.440" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="18490" PostId="12020" Score="8" Text="You may instead use custom, preset white-balance, with or without fine-tuning, to do that at no cost to you or to your images." CreationDate="2011-05-13T19:33:43.430" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18491" PostId="11998" Text="My own example - I was helping my wife with a soccer tournament that she organized, and realized that it would be nice to have some great &quot;Sports Illustrated look&quot; photos from the event.  I rented a 70-200 f/2.8 VR lens for the weekend for $50, and captured a great deal of fantastic pictures, printing some of them poster-sized.  Outside of that event, I wouldn't have much use for that $2,300 lens." CreationDate="2011-05-13T20:22:39.577" UserId="5166" />
  <row Id="18492" PostId="11947" Text="While I agree with the Canon 70-200 2.8L IS II being fantastic quality, I don't agree it is worth the tradeoff in weight as compared to the Canon 70-200 4L IS.  The 2.8 IS is nearly twice the weight, and it is a BEAST!" CreationDate="2011-05-13T20:43:49.020" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18493" PostId="12013" Text="Some of the answers to http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/817/21 may also be of relevance" CreationDate="2011-05-13T20:45:18.467" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="18495" PostId="12019" Text="Quality is of paramount importance to me, so I simply can't settle for a superzoom like the 50-250mm." CreationDate="2011-05-13T21:05:24.527" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18497" PostId="11998" Score="3" Text="Fair enough, but I wouldn't call it a common beginner mistake. " CreationDate="2011-05-13T22:07:29.353" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="18498" PostId="11981" Text="I agree with this completely.  This is how I handle my contracts as well, and have actually had a bride walk away from the table because she didn't want to give up her deposit in the 'act of god' case.  I'd rather end that business relationship that way than having to follow through with litigation..." CreationDate="2011-05-13T22:30:16.920" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18499" PostId="11980" Score="1" Text="My favorite was the other Nikon shooter who had his flash set to slave mode on the channel I was using.  His flash never fired when he shot, just when I shot.  Glad I was chimping-- I was able to catch the problem before too many shots were ruined." CreationDate="2011-05-13T22:31:33.863" UserId="266" />
  <row Id="18500" PostId="11981" Text="@mmr: Totally. I'd much rather nip a business relationship in the bud *before* I 'get into bed' with a client that isn't a good fit (either for them, or for me). Far less time consuming, and potentially costly that way." CreationDate="2011-05-13T22:44:02.817" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18501" PostId="11993" Text="Updated. I think it's still a mistake new photographers make though." CreationDate="2011-05-13T22:51:19.933" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18502" PostId="12015" Score="1" Text="Traditonally, 35mm (equivalent) _is_ wide angle, but it's not very wide for a P&amp;S zoom. I think that's the source of the confusion here. (A.k.a. &quot;everyone's right&quot; — or, &quot;define your terms where it might be ambiguous&quot;.) " CreationDate="2011-05-13T23:12:45.513" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18503" PostId="8289" Text="Yes Stan, but now your answer is the first result on Google when this question is asked.  " CreationDate="2011-05-14T00:24:56.910" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18504" PostId="11936" Text="@simon granted it is not for everyone. It does mean potentially cheaper though as 1) people aren't looking for them. 2) you only need one filter instead of a new polariser for each size" CreationDate="2011-05-14T00:26:11.537" UserId="5140" />
  <row Id="18506" PostId="11988" Text="These are all things I'm working on." CreationDate="2011-05-14T01:32:17.723" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="18507" PostId="11993" Text="@Nick Bedford - Starting a business? Sure, thats a mistake - it wasn't even clear until you went to facebook that that was what you were talking about though.  My downvote removed." CreationDate="2011-05-14T01:36:25.940" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18508" PostId="11948" Text="@fmark.  Tamron now has a VC (their IS) version of the 17-50, for crop sensors.  I talked to the Tamron rep, and he says the rumors of it having worse sharpness to the original are false, it's exact same optics.  (Maybe those people were using it on a tripod, in which case Vibration Control adds noise without helping)  In any event, TLDR, Tamron can do that too." CreationDate="2011-05-14T01:37:32.553" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="18509" PostId="11988" Text="@Michael - &quot;Letting the camera decide the aperture/shutter speed&quot; - are you promoting full manual always?  Because I'd hardly call using A or S mode as an issue.  Not understanding what A or S mode really is,when to use it, or when its wrong - that's a mistake." CreationDate="2011-05-14T01:40:13.783" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18510" PostId="11988" Text="@rfusca There's a time and a place for letting the camera decide aperture/shutter speed, but if you have the time to decide what adjustments to make and the time to make them, you should most likely manually adjust your camera.  When the camera's making the choices, it pretty much won't ever give you the best picture possible... not even close." CreationDate="2011-05-14T02:22:39.967" UserId="5158" />
  <row Id="18511" PostId="11877" Text="That is a plausible hypothesis.  Don't discount visual perception, however, it is usual for human perception to vary depending on neighbouring colour." CreationDate="2011-05-14T06:03:23.063" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18512" PostId="11940" Text="Re your 2nd bullet point - the Canon 5D MkII is 10g lighter than the 7D..." CreationDate="2011-05-14T07:42:44.157" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18513" PostId="12032" Score="1" Text="Point 1 is probably a strong reason for the limit actually. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T08:01:17.690" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18515" PostId="11868" Text="Well, if you are using external flash, you better turn burst mode off. that's the only downside" CreationDate="2011-05-14T08:28:43.350" UserId="4657" />
  <row Id="18516" PostId="12029" Score="4" Text=".... There isn't a limit. The **internal** meter/timer only goes to 30 seconds, but you could take hours long exposures if you wanted, by putting the camera in bulb mode and holding the shutter button until your battery dies." CreationDate="2011-05-14T08:46:02.970" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18517" PostId="12033" Text="Uh oh -- I think you're right. Sorry. Feel free to vote to close my question (for some reason I didn't find that other one on my initial search)." CreationDate="2011-05-14T08:54:28.570" UserId="5176" />
  <row Id="18518" PostId="12028" Score="2" Text="The crossing patterns are odd, but even more odd, IMO, is the brownish diagonal line crossing the bottom of the photo.  Do you know that this photo hasn't been photoshopped?" CreationDate="2011-05-14T10:09:34.253" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18519" PostId="12028" Text="@D. Lambert: This picture is straight out of the camera.. very strange!" CreationDate="2011-05-14T10:22:47.107" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="18520" PostId="12031" Text="30s is too less!" CreationDate="2011-05-14T10:24:13.813" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="18521" PostId="12031" Text="Yes but if the next increment was 60 seconds you would be on here complaining about 60 seconds being too long :)" CreationDate="2011-05-14T10:29:15.087" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18522" PostId="11971" Text="@khedron. I agree with you. My opinion may not be the most sensible cost-wise. (I've been saving a long time before I got my gear)." CreationDate="2011-05-14T10:41:53.740" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="18523" PostId="11971" Text="@mattdm. Sorry, was sincere, wasn't trying to flatter. True, credit goes to everyone who shares their experience and answered my noob questions without flaming. I genuinely like (and am learning to love photography with) this community." CreationDate="2011-05-14T10:44:02.553" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="18524" PostId="12034" Score="2" Text="Possible duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3711/how-can-a-18-55-lens-capture-objects-beyond-55mm-without-any-problems" CreationDate="2011-05-14T11:30:04.180" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18525" PostId="12028" Text="@Lazer: It is only 1024x653 pixels. I don't believe it is produced by a camera; it has certainly gone through *some* post-processing. Could you perhaps post the original photo?" CreationDate="2011-05-14T11:43:18.190" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18526" PostId="11787" Score="2" Text="@fmark: No, I don't. But it seems geosetter supports it:&#xA;&#xA;http://www.geosetter.de/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/v330_02_map_add_heading2_en.jpg" CreationDate="2011-05-14T12:32:07.093" UserId="5061" />
  <row Id="18527" PostId="11971" Text="@Global nomad -- thanks. :) I didn't _really_ mean -1. I do appreciate the complement, but it really is _so many_ people in this community. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:10:33.420" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18528" PostId="12028" Text="Does this happen with all images or was this one an exception? RAW or compressed in camera? I've seen this before out of damaged point and shoot camera but all pictures would come out like that." CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:12:07.520" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="18529" PostId="12034" Text="Other question is about how focal length can change — this is about focus point. I don't think they're duplicates even though the answers are related. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:12:48.177" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18530" PostId="12034" Text="PS: sub-question: how do _any_ lenses, prime or zoom, avoid changing focal length slightly as focus changes?" CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:16:53.797" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18531" PostId="12031" Score="2" Text="I'm pretty sure the shutter speeds _could_ be generated by a function, and really really big numbers only actually take a few bytes, giving a sequence as long as any human could reasonably select from in finite time. So I don't think that's _really_ it. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:22:14.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18532" PostId="12032" Score="2" Text="Not just sensor heat — heat generated by other electronics starts to have a measurable impact (often color blobs on one side of the frame). And also, light leaking in through the viewfinder becomes a big deal. My camera comes with a cover for that, but I have no idea where it is now. (Since I don't usually do this kind of shot.)" CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:24:51.720" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18533" PostId="11940" Text="@JamWheel - You bring up a good point, I guess I thought choosing a 7D over a 5D would allow me to use potentially lighter lenses such as the EF-S line due to the fact that they are only utilizing the center of the glass." CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:25:12.347" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="18534" PostId="12012" Text="So, I think _this_ question would benefit from being CW. It's impossible for any answer to address the question comprehensively, and aside from the subjectivity of &quot;great&quot;, each pointer to examples is a small nugget of fact. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:28:31.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18535" PostId="11989" Text="Sometimes, I think we just need to get out and shoot. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-14T13:53:29.200" UserId="1709" />
  <row Id="18536" PostId="11787" Text="@Patrick Kowalzick Wow, hadn't seen geosetter before, it looks great :)" CreationDate="2011-05-14T14:10:10.253" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18537" PostId="12034" Score="1" Text="@mattdm - They do not. Try it yourself. This will be more visible on some lenses and at close focus distances I believe. One of my first questions when I started photography was *why does focusing change the field-of-view?*" CreationDate="2011-05-14T14:15:38.143" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18538" PostId="12034" Score="1" Text="@Itai: Oh, we've actually got that covered here: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10734/does-changing-the-focal-length-change-focus" CreationDate="2011-05-14T14:21:37.383" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18539" PostId="12034" Text="Some prime macro lenses can be used to demonstrate the change of FoV while focusing very easily: focus too far; compose tightly; autofocus; and notice that your composition is certainly not what you wanted." CreationDate="2011-05-14T15:11:08.467" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18540" PostId="12039" Score="2" Text="You are mistaken about Picassa. _Google claims no ownership or control over any Content submitted, posted or displayed by you on or through Picasa Web Albums._ http://picasa.google.com/intl/en-GB/web/tos.html" CreationDate="2011-05-14T15:55:53.730" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18541" PostId="12028" Text="@Jukka: I think that is the max Flickr supports. [Here](http://i.imgur.com/NC5Ft.jpg) is the full version." CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:22:25.593" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="18542" PostId="12028" Text="@Jakub: This is the only image in the set with such effects." CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:22:49.510" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="18543" PostId="12039" Text="By submitting, posting or displaying Content which is intended to be available to the general public, you grant Google a worldwide, non-exclusive, royalty-free license to reproduce, adapt, distribute and publish such Content for the purpose of displaying, distributing and promoting Google services. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:32:55.803" UserId="4941" />
  <row Id="18544" PostId="12039" Score="1" Text="That just grants Google use of the image for something, I would wager any albums set as private wouldn't be used. Nobody else would use them, but I imagine it would cover their ability to return them in search results and so on... Flickr is so cheap though, I can't see why you wouldn't just go with that." CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:47:04.663" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18545" PostId="12039" Score="4" Text="...especially as Flickr can be completely free..." CreationDate="2011-05-14T17:11:30.653" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="18546" PostId="12039" Score="5" Text="That isn't giving up ownership, though. Some of those rights are needed just to be ae to host and dismay the photos. The advertising-use clause isn't something I like, but it's still not giving up ownership. Also, all of those terminate if you remove the images. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T17:14:46.640" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18547" PostId="12039" Text="Hah -- display, not dismay. Thanks, autocorrect!" CreationDate="2011-05-14T17:22:16.600" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18548" PostId="12032" Text="@Imre I think you mean &quot;reciprocity *failure*&quot;, not &quot;effect&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-14T18:41:06.630" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18549" PostId="12032" Score="1" Text="@whuber thanks, of course; fixed" CreationDate="2011-05-14T19:43:49.177" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18550" PostId="12042" Score="1" Text="I disagree with this assessment, given that the &quot;diamond mesh&quot; extends beyond the top of the diagonal wire in the corner of the bay. The grid also does not appear on any land or buildings, only the water. If it was just a mesh, it would stop where the wire was and appear over land/buildings...but that is not the case. The grid, whatever it is, definitely appears to exist ON or UNDER the water, and does not really appear to be an out-of-focus mesh. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T20:09:18.877" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18551" PostId="12042" Text="@jrista, might it just be that over detailed backgrounds like buildings or the rocky land, the pattern is hard to distinguish?" CreationDate="2011-05-14T21:56:59.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18552" PostId="12042" Score="5" Text="I understand @jrista, however this [Google Map link](http://maps.google.com/maps?t=h&amp;cbp=12,70.49,,1,9.21&amp;cbll=37.830535,-122.479734&amp;layer=c&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=37.830468,-122.479649&amp;spn=0.000443,0.000871&amp;z=21&amp;panoid=Ng4zih69aXQzYzsw3A0qgA) might explain the situation." CreationDate="2011-05-14T22:28:01.713" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="18553" PostId="12042" Text="@jrista - anti submarine net?  ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-14T22:28:24.817" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18554" PostId="12041" Text="The size of the mesh cells is quite uniform, disregarding any perspective distortions. This makes me doubt the fact that it is some underwater structure. Additionally, you can identify the pattern extending all the way to the right side of the image, outside of the lagoon." CreationDate="2011-05-14T22:39:10.713" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18555" PostId="12042" Score="1" Text="Well, @Leorex's google map link settles it. :P I am still a bit confused as to why you can't see ANY part of the OOF fence overlayed on the land or sidewalk around the outer edge of the bay. If it wasn't for that fact, I would have agreed up front. @ysap: I used to live near the beach in California, and there are plenty of regular structures to be found under the waters surface around bays and the like, remnants of some past thing abandoned. I admit, this would be rather large...but you never know." CreationDate="2011-05-14T23:20:01.070" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18556" PostId="12041" Text="@ysap: Yup...hence option #2. " CreationDate="2011-05-14T23:21:12.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18557" PostId="12044" Text="For me ufraw and gimp work w/o a problem, so it most certainly a problem with your setup or your actions in the import of the RAW to gimp." CreationDate="2011-05-15T00:58:07.067" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18558" PostId="12044" Text="@ysap: surely I have inadvertently changed something, it's only that I cannot find what is that :) as for the actions, even this don't work: I start gimp, pick up a .cr2 file, ufraw starts and the size is correct, then I click &quot;ok&quot; and get back to gimp. " CreationDate="2011-05-15T01:07:29.873" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="18559" PostId="12044" Text="@ysap: in addition, I don't remember to have changed anything. I was not playing with settings..." CreationDate="2011-05-15T01:11:28.843" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="18560" PostId="12044" Score="4" Text="Since my setup works just well, I don't have very smart ideas here, but: 1. Does the standalone ufraw works well (saves jpeg the right size)? 2. You can try reinstalling the software to make sure you have resetted everything." CreationDate="2011-05-15T01:27:26.907" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18561" PostId="12026" Score="1" Text="This was an exceptionally helpful answer, Stonjie. Thank you for telling me EXACTLY what I needed to know!" CreationDate="2011-05-15T04:17:35.270" UserId="3993" />
  <row Id="18562" PostId="2144" Score="1" Text="very detailed and covers almost everything! +1" CreationDate="2011-05-15T04:46:14.280" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="18563" PostId="5074" Text="@ieure - so shine the light at something 50-100' away, and focus on that. That should get you close enough to infinity focus that your shot will be in focus." CreationDate="2011-05-15T08:07:06.207" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18564" PostId="12044" Text="@ysap: thanks for the suggestions, actually it was NOT saving jpg the right size. " CreationDate="2011-05-15T08:52:37.840" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="18565" PostId="12045" Score="2" Text="Is the problem that the meter simply refuses to report long exposures, or that it meters wrong? In the former case, have you tried to meter with a very high ISO? E.g., if you want to shoot with ISO 100, then you could meter with ISO 3200 and multiply the time by 32?" CreationDate="2011-05-15T10:13:25.873" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18566" PostId="12045" Score="1" Text="@Jukka Suomela - The meter on Canon DSLRs goes up to a max of 30 Seconds. Anything longer then that, and you HAVE to use bulb mode. I'm timing my exposures with a stop watch and a remote release." CreationDate="2011-05-15T10:24:48.940" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18567" PostId="12046" Text="I'm definitely getting better at guessing exposure times, but it is still time consuming. It just seems there should be a better way, I don't know, a photomultiplier based sensor or something. There *are* light sensors that are *very* sensitive." CreationDate="2011-05-15T10:25:44.947" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="18568" PostId="12045" Score="2" Text="@Fake Name: So did you try the trick of metering with a very high ISO? For example, 10 minutes with ISO 125 ≈ 23 seconds with ISO 3200, so the meter should be able to report the time (whether the result is correct is another question)." CreationDate="2011-05-15T10:40:25.247" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18569" PostId="12045" Score="1" Text="A related trick: You could do your test exposures with a high ISO. That way you can do your test shots much faster, and then you only need to switch to low ISO for your final shot." CreationDate="2011-05-15T10:52:49.287" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18570" PostId="12045" Text="You might want to avoid ISO125 in favor of ISO160 on a 5dmkII - see the noise test by Peter Troeger - http://vimeo.com/20239453" CreationDate="2011-05-15T12:27:44.850" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18571" PostId="12050" Score="5" Text="[Interchangeable lens cameras with fully articulated display and live view on dpreview's database](http://www.dpreview.com/products/search/cameras#criterias=SpecsCoreParams%2CSpecsLCDNew%2CSpecsLiveView&amp;includeDiscontinued=No&amp;sort=newestFirst&amp;view=list&amp;page=1&amp;paramSpecsCoreParamsBodyType=Rangefinder%2CMirrorless%2CCompactSLR%2CMidSizeSLR%2CLargeSLR&amp;paramSpecsLCDNew=Articulated&amp;paramSpecsLiveView=Yes): 12 matches found." CreationDate="2011-05-15T13:35:21.990" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18572" PostId="12050" Score="1" Text="A specific budget would be useful, but do see koiyu's answer. The best general advice when buying a camera is don't just buy on the basis of online reviews: try and get to a store and physically handle and try out a few cameras. I researched and researched online, decided on a Canon, then switched to Nikon went I actually used them in a store." CreationDate="2011-05-15T13:43:16.690" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18573" PostId="12050" Text="I come from a Canon A430 compact. I am not really knowledgeable..." CreationDate="2011-05-15T13:44:36.927" UserId="5181" />
  <row Id="18574" PostId="12050" Text="@koiyu : Excellent link you gave me! Thanks! I did not know it's called &quot;articulated&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-15T13:45:40.047" UserId="5181" />
  <row Id="18575" PostId="12018" Text="Good enough that one of them made the cover of Hawaii magazine IIRC. Small cameras can perform quite well at low ISO (64-200) and those older ones did better than current megapixel-inflated models." CreationDate="2011-05-15T14:20:29.733" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18576" PostId="12051" Text="Both dpreview and your site distinct *just* tilting and fully articulating/rotating displays, though." CreationDate="2011-05-15T14:30:51.650" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18577" PostId="12051" Text="The key is 'fully' I guess :)" CreationDate="2011-05-15T14:37:24.260" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18578" PostId="12046" Score="3" Text="@Fake Name: This answer is terrible advice, and there *is* a better way! I shoot very long exposures for astrophotography *all the time* and I am able to predict my exposure times with excellent accuracy by using a little but of math in a procedure similar to what @Imre outlined..." CreationDate="2011-05-15T15:22:33.330" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18579" PostId="12050" Text="Thanks @mattdm for proper retagging and renaming :)" CreationDate="2011-05-15T15:28:18.343" UserId="5181" />
  <row Id="18581" PostId="12032" Text="@Imre: Just read your very helpful answer to http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12045/how-do-i-meter-for-long-exposures-10-minutes about calculating long exposure times. How does that technique correlate to your first point here? If the camera can correctly meter at a high ISO in low light, why can't it do the math for me at a lower ISO?" CreationDate="2011-05-15T18:34:03.307" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18582" PostId="12054" Text="&quot;And there's really nothing you can do about it besides bringing in other lighting.&quot; That's not true. You can also gel the light and/or gel the camera..." CreationDate="2011-05-15T19:42:04.593" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18583" PostId="12054" Score="2" Text="@Jay — that can just subtract, though. You can't add to the color rendition that way. " CreationDate="2011-05-15T19:44:48.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18584" PostId="12054" Text="Who said anything about adding? The goal of gelling (in this instance) would be to subtract or lessen the effects of the offending frequency (or frequencies). That is clearly something else that you can do other than bringing in other lighting..." CreationDate="2011-05-15T20:10:30.070" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18585" PostId="12054" Score="4" Text="@Jay — if the available spectrum is really narrow, like a sodium vapor light, the &quot;offending&quot; frequency is pretty much _all there is_. If you filter that out, it'll just be dark. " CreationDate="2011-05-15T20:19:24.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18586" PostId="12032" Text="@HenryJackson it's very much possible the metering will fail, that's why you have to take the test shot and check its histogram." CreationDate="2011-05-15T21:08:12.780" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18587" PostId="12062" Score="1" Text="The camera is a [Pentax K-r](http://www.pentaximaging.com/slr/K-r_Black/), with an APS-C sensor.  The low-pass filter is fixed on the sensor; the self-cleaning mechanism simply uses the Shake Reduction system to shake the entire sensor.  It appears that when the shutter is open for sensor cleaning, the SR system tries to keep the sensor in place." CreationDate="2011-05-15T22:12:46.463" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18588" PostId="12062" Text="Self cleaning is rather useless, isn't it?" CreationDate="2011-05-15T22:12:49.777" UserId="170" />
  <row Id="18589" PostId="12062" Score="1" Text="@DragonLord file that as a plus for sensor shake reduction over lens based shake reduction in that case! You should be fine as long as you use light pressure. " CreationDate="2011-05-15T22:17:13.903" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18590" PostId="12062" Text="The self-cleaning only worked in a few isolated times with larger specks of dust.  A blower bulb was used to remove any other prominent dust.  However, many other spots could not be removed with the blower bulb." CreationDate="2011-05-15T22:17:35.477" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18592" PostId="12054" Score="2" Text="@Jay: Matt has it nailed on the head here. Cameras absorb the light that is present, and if your scene is lit with a very narrow spectrum, no amount of gelling will change the simple fact that you lack certain frequencies. You may be able to shift the narrow spectrum of frequencies with a colored filter, but you won't add additional frequencies of light. Only additional light that emits different or broader ranges of light frequency will do that." CreationDate="2011-05-15T22:34:50.087" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18593" PostId="12062" Text="Actually. The self-cleaning system works well, only it cleans small particles that have very little impact on IQ. When the particles are big and more important to remove it is useless. At least progress was made!" CreationDate="2011-05-15T22:35:41.420" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18594" PostId="12059" Text="Off-topic but curious: what brand of CFLs?" CreationDate="2011-05-15T23:01:19.187" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18595" PostId="12062" Score="2" Text="Sensor shake for this is handy, but not perfect. With my K-5s, I will do the menu based option on lens change, otherwise I just have it on startup. It's not 100%, but it really cuts down the overall volume of dust." CreationDate="2011-05-15T23:23:16.550" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18596" PostId="12032" Text="@Imre: I see; you were suggesting to use the high ISO *only* to shorten the test shot exposure time, not to use the exposure meter." CreationDate="2011-05-15T23:34:55.650" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18597" PostId="12063" Text="possible duplicate of [Is a model release needed for all commercial photo sales?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5031/is-a-model-release-needed-for-all-commercial-photo-sales)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:27:04.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18598" PostId="11858" Text="@Fake Name: Essentially, no. I don't understand enough about it as I have been using print services for a long time. :/" CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:32:41.123" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="18599" PostId="11859" Text="I'm hoping to fix this from the camera side. I've taken the same photos to a print shop and they still come out red. They tell me others do not have the same issue so I assume it is my camera settings. Is white balance the only thing involved? Is there any way to compensate with lighting as well?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:36:06.707" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="18600" PostId="12063" Score="2" Text="I don't think this is a dupe - this question is about portfolio use, whereas the other question was about selling prints." CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:36:14.823" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="18601" PostId="12064" Text="+1 - I agree, I've never heard of this being an issue." CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:42:40.553" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18602" PostId="12068" Score="4" Text="Wow, sorry, but I think this question is way too broad. The way I read it, it's the start point for a rather large book on the topic of lighting... What are you trying to do? The amount, and nature, of lighting varies from scene to subject to purpose. There's no magic answer here." CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:56:20.447" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18604" PostId="12068" Text="Sorry, Rephrased the question in attempt to narrow it down to what I'm actually looking for. Only trying to understand if it is a good practice to look into multiple flash levels. Please feel free to edit anyone." CreationDate="2011-05-16T01:13:58.797" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="18605" PostId="11859" Text="Even if you try to add artificial light, this will then change the overall colour temperature meaning there is no guarantee that it would resolve anything as you would be changing the white balance without controlling it or understanding it.  I would suggest checking if your camera is capable of setting a custom white balance and then experimenting with this to see if it resolves your issue." CreationDate="2011-05-16T01:59:19.527" UserId="1410" />
  <row Id="18606" PostId="12057" Score="2" Text="Just to expand on this: Full-frame means the lens has to produce an image on a larger surface area. That usually means larger lens elements, and the more glass you have, the more expensive the lens." CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:04:24.560" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18607" PostId="10320" Text="@Matt Grum I agree. The camera is reading the light being reflected, therefore making adjustments to the expected white balance. I still shoot on daylight as: if it is off, it is consistently off. Making it easier to fix in post. " CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:30:29.943" UserId="5140" />
  <row Id="18608" PostId="12073" Score="2" Text="Augustin-Jean Fresnel may want to take issue with your second paragraph... Mind you, that is more about shaping and directing the light, but the perception is brighter. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:33:44.317" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18609" PostId="12072" Text="Note this is the fastest **Nikon** lens. Zeiss makes a F/0.7 which was famously used by Stanley Kubrik for candlelit scenes: http://www.visual-memory.co.uk/sk/ac/len/page1.htm - Never heard of an F/0.5 though." CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:44:30.250" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18610" PostId="12078" Score="2" Text="Check for more information about crop factor on http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/139/what-is-the-difference-between-focal-length-and-crop-factor." CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:50:55.493" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18611" PostId="12071" Score="2" Text="&quot;snorting coke off the wedding cake... Unless it actually happened!&quot; - you and I go to *MUCH* different weddings." CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:54:02.623" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18612" PostId="12078" Score="2" Text="It's too bad that they word it so poorly. The US site, at http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t2i_ef_s_18_55mm_is_kit#Specifications, says &quot;_35mm-equivalent focal length is approx. 1.6x the lens focal length_&quot;, which is better (if still not great)." CreationDate="2011-05-16T02:55:48.057" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18613" PostId="12078" Text="@rfusca: your math is backwards here; the field of view will of course be smaller, not 1.6× larger. (Something like 0.625×, give or take.) I know what you mean, of course, but it just goes to show how confusing the language is...." CreationDate="2011-05-16T03:20:55.133" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18614" PostId="12066" Score="1" Text="@Jay — can you describe what your wife would like to do with the software? Picassa can be used in a lot of different ways, and knowing the specific needs would help get the best possible responses." CreationDate="2011-05-16T03:24:10.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18615" PostId="12078" Text="@mattdm - Sure, I was thinking 1.6x zoomed in - ya, its confusing.  I'll try to make it clearer." CreationDate="2011-05-16T03:29:06.337" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18616" PostId="12075" Text="F/0.7 is a stop brighter than F/1.0. But the cost of that stop would be too much." CreationDate="2011-05-16T03:46:09.573" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18618" PostId="12046" Text="Yes, Imre's answer is good! I was always bad in math :(" CreationDate="2011-05-16T04:20:33.183" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="18619" PostId="12075" Score="1" Text="Remember that the physical aperture size as calculated from relative aperture is only as viewed through the front lens element (which tends to magnify the innards a bit.) The true physical size of the aperture is usually not quite that large. It is possible to correct for an aperture larger than the mount with more optics...but thats part of where the added cost of wider apertures comes into play." CreationDate="2011-05-16T05:21:41.827" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18620" PostId="12089" Text="OK, there are a couple of concepts here. First, the angle of incidence is perpendicular only at the center of the sensor. This is not affected by the aperture, but merely the plain geometry of the problem. It is true, though, that with a wide aperture, the rays approach from a wider angle (cone) than with a narrow aperture. Second, by definition, the sensor is at the plane of focus, so all rays should converge on the dust particle. Third, your experiment with the shadows assume the fingers are far from the wall, however, the dust is *on* the sensor (give or take the IR filter)." CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:02:41.137" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18621" PostId="11740" Text="Those of you looking for more sources have probably found the amazon.com [list](http://www.amazon.com/Miksang/lm/R2H5U92AQRXE80/ref=cm_lmt_DYNA_f_1_russss0?pf_rd_p=496997231&amp;pf_rd_s=listmania-center&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=1561484571&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=18PAJ62BZM1RCEYA1KS0), but I'll post it just in case..." CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:11:46.403" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18622" PostId="7449" Score="1" Text="Brings a whole new meaning to the phrase *&quot;Patience young grasshopper&quot;*" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:13:36.573" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18623" PostId="12089" Score="2" Text="@ysap: The dust is on the filters in FRONT of the sensor, NOT on the sensor. Given the scale were talking about with a modern DSLR, my macro example (which is admittedly VERY rough) is attempting to take that into account. It should also be noted that when using this technique, it brings out dust in the center of the sensor best, and dust along the edges of the sensor worst...for the very reason that light is not entirely &quot;perpendicular&quot; in those regions. So, we don't really disagree, however perhaps to test in macro scale, keep your hand only half a foot from the wall. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:14:01.843" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18624" PostId="12089" Text="Also keep in mind that with modern DSLR's, there is an air gap between the filter component in front of the sensor and the sensor itself to allow for automatic sensor cleaning via vibration (at least, for most...I think those with in-camera vibration reduction may not.) That adds to the distance between dust and sensor. Another note...the &quot;sharpness&quot; that is usually gained by stopping down doesn't play a role here...usually, I defocus the lens to infinity, so that the light coming through contains no relevant &quot;detail&quot;...its just flat, unfocused, and largely &quot;perpendicular&quot; light." CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:15:46.507" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18625" PostId="7449" Text="@fmark: Hah! It does indeed! :D" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:22:13.100" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18626" PostId="12091" Text="Mine is a lot worse than that. :P I've been afraid to do a wet cleaning...but maybe I have to. You have one hell of a CLEAN sensor!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:47:11.487" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18628" PostId="12084" Text="I like the fact that is that the tripod-mount attached strap/sling is a lot less obtrusive and allows for easy shooting in both landscape and portrait format. In addition it makes the camera hang in a more symmetric/ergonomically better way." CreationDate="2011-05-16T08:29:07.470" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="18629" PostId="12059" Text="Thanks for an excellent answer, especially for taking the time to test my hypothetical question :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T10:01:19.730" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="18630" PostId="12054" Text="Thank you for an excellent answer, and for explaining the theory behind this." CreationDate="2011-05-16T10:02:27.530" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="18631" PostId="12077" Text="A very fair question indeed.  I think others have answered better than I could." CreationDate="2011-05-16T11:00:27.830" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18632" PostId="12096" Score="6" Text="Can you post a picture showing the lens? Or describe the apparent damage in more detail?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T11:02:39.980" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18633" PostId="11929" Text="a [SPY LENS](http://photojojo.com/store/awesomeness/candid-photography-spy-lens/) could help :-D I'm unaware of its effects on the IQ, though." CreationDate="2011-05-16T11:47:48.830" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18634" PostId="12039" Text="See also: http://www.robertstech.com/blog/?p=327" CreationDate="2011-05-16T12:16:00.133" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18636" PostId="12062" Text="@JohnCavan, the K-5 and K-7 have an ultrasonic vibrating low-pass filter for self-cleaning, unlike the K-r and other entry-level models." CreationDate="2011-05-16T12:29:59.373" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18637" PostId="12090" Text="It's a shame; I would love to have a real aperture ring! Oh well, thanks for the tip." CreationDate="2011-05-16T12:46:29.340" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18638" PostId="9601" Text="@Matt Grum: You are completely correct except for this one bit: &quot;where these blades meet there is a corner which results in Fraunhofer diffraction.&quot; In fact it is the edges, not the corners, which is responsible for the diffraction lines." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:10:38.453" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18639" PostId="11929" Text="@koiyu That's hilarious - although shooting *that* from the hip would be difficult!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:18:40.410" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18640" PostId="12062" Text="I'll buy the Photographic Solutions cleaning products.  It seems that reports of sensor damage are caused by improper cleaning tools or procedures; failures resulting from proper use of the correct products are rare, so I'll take a shot at it." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:22:27.097" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18641" PostId="12073" Text="@John: I hereby invoke my &quot;pretty much&quot; exception :-P" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:26:38.027" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18642" PostId="12099" Text="@ElendilTheTail Well said. @Lazer, it is because the person who took the picture moved the position of the camera." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:28:20.493" UserId="4273" />
  <row Id="18643" PostId="12099" Text="Thanks. Oh, and, ahem, that's ta*l*l, not tail :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:29:47.133" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18644" PostId="12090" Text="@HenryJackson To get a real aperture ring that can be used in Av mode, you should get an older, non-A lens (e.g. something from SMC-M series). With such lens, the aperture selected will be in effect immediately. A Lensbaby with Sweet 35 Optics would also work similarly." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:31:58.057" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18645" PostId="12099" Score="1" Text="-1 full frame sensors **do** inherently have less depth of field, it's not to do with getting closer, in that example the camera was not moved in order to fill the frame with the bottle - I know 'cos I shot it!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:33:50.847" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18646" PostId="12098" Text="See this question and its answers http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10079/. The relationship is actually pretty direct." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:36:16.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18647" PostId="12099" Text="Edited for accuracy; if you didn't move the camera, you changed the focal length, _nes pas_?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:39:12.323" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18649" PostId="12089" Text="Helpful word for this: &quot;Collimated&quot;. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimated_light" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:40:17.690" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18650" PostId="12099" Text="I've rescinded my hasty downvote as I think I misread, from *&quot;Simply put, you have shallower depth of field with a full-frame sensor because you have to get closer to the subject in order to fill the frame&quot;* it sounded like you were suggesting that you must move the camera physically closer to get shallower depth of field. If by &quot;get closer&quot; you mean zoom in, then you are correct." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:41:42.650" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18651" PostId="12101" Text="well, I thought same composition meant same aperture.." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:43:12.977" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="18652" PostId="12101" Score="1" Text="@Lazer composition usually refers to the position/orientation of objects in the frame, not to camera settings such as aperture or shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:46:18.763" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18653" PostId="12099" Score="1" Text="Right. I don't mean you have to move the camera closer (or zoom in) in order to get a shallower DoF, I mean you have to move closer (or zoom in) to fill the frame _which results in_ shallower DoF." CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:52:13.503" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18654" PostId="12073" Score="1" Text="@Craig - LOL, I couldn't resist. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:54:42.583" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18655" PostId="12075" Text="@jrista - Would the correction not be in the rear elements then?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:58:09.930" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18656" PostId="12091" Text="@Jerry, What did you shoot in these two pics?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:01:53.750" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="18657" PostId="12091" Text="@Lazer: The wall of my office, mostly out of focus. There's enough DoF at f/22 that you can see a little of the texture of the wall (though it's still out of focus, and something like a 2s exposure, shot handheld, so it's a long ways from sharp). The more common subject is a clear, blue sky." CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:07:43.763" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18658" PostId="2736" Text="Very good explanation, thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:31:28.853" UserId="1184" />
  <row Id="18659" PostId="12107" Score="1" Text="Counter example: ISO 100 (low iso) -&gt; image with a lot of noise, ISO 6400 (high iso) -&gt; image with little noise. Proof: http://www.mattgrum.com/ISOcomparison/ISO_100_vs_ISO_1600.jpg" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:48:42.730" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18660" PostId="12108" Score="1" Text="*All digital cameras exhibit image noise that rises as ISO increases* not true. In fact the only way noise increases is if you decrease the amount of light coming in. Raise the ISO whilst keeping the same shutter speed and aperture will cause noise to decrease (or the highlights to clip). " CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:52:21.603" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18661" PostId="12109" Score="1" Text="The DOF question duplicates another [recent question](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12098/why-does-a-bigger-sensor-lead-to-a-shallower-depth-of-field), and there are relevant answers at [this older question](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10079/can-a-smaller-sensors-crop-factor-be-used-to-calculate-the-exact-increase-in-d)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:54:02.197" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18662" PostId="12108" Text="Thanks, Matt; yes.  So, increasing ISO while maintaining the equivalent brightness (as shown in the histogram)...." CreationDate="2011-05-16T14:57:08.437" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18663" PostId="12107" Score="2" Text="@Matt: You are certainly correct, but I think the way most photographers think about things is that when you increase ISO, you offset that increase with a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture, to produce (roughly) the same photograph. (In most autoexposure modes, this way of thinking corresponds to the mechanics of shooting.) I think we'd be better off encouraging people to *state that assumption* in their writing, rather than just saying they're wrong." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:16:18.533" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18664" PostId="12102" Text="+1: That pretty much sums it up." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:17:42.770" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18665" PostId="12075" Text="@John: Yes, it usually is. I think they call that exit-pupil correction." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:28:53.183" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18666" PostId="12107" Score="1" Text="Ok so every noisy high ISO image would be even noisier if shot with a lower ISO. Likewise every noisy high ISO would be less noisy if shot with a longer exposure. So I don't understand why people call it &quot;high ISO noise&quot; and not &quot;insufficient light noise&quot;. ISO doesn't create noise, which is exactly what statements like &quot;all digital cameras exhibit image noise which rises as ISO increases&quot; implies. If you instead say &quot;all digital cameras exhibit noise which increases as incoming light decreases&quot; you would be correct *without the need to state any assumptions!*" CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:39:47.297" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18667" PostId="12093" Text="&quot;the aperture is required to avoid diffraction&quot; Not quite. Diffraction cannot be avoided, ever, but the size of a focal spot from a faster lens is smaller. The focal spot is the result of diffraction from the exit pupil of the lens, and has a size of 2.44 * wavelength * f-number." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:46:32.263" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18668" PostId="12107" Score="2" Text="&quot;Ok so every noisy high ISO image would be even noisier if shot with a lower ISO.&quot; Only under *your* unstated assumption that shutter speed and aperture remain fixed. Which is not necessarily how most photographers actually think about things." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:49:29.360" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18669" PostId="12108" Text="Not sure what the downvotes are for. Raising the ISO does indeed raise the noise. The resulting image may look better because in situations with lots of light the signal to noise ratio will be good, regardless of ISO. At least I hope so, otherwise my radiometry professor lied to me :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:51:56.303" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18670" PostId="12093" Text="Yeah I meant diffraction problems. I'll clarify." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:52:22.073" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18671" PostId="12091" Text="Thanks for the practical examples!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:53:02.683" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18672" PostId="9597" Text="This has also been answered at the physics.SE: http://physics.stackexchange.com/q/9899/869" CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:54:25.863" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18673" PostId="12089" Text="Thanks for the answer. I guess I am underestimating the thickness of the gap and the filters." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:54:28.767" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18674" PostId="12106" Text="I'm not sure why this ISO topic always yields such a heated debate." CreationDate="2011-05-16T15:57:28.157" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18675" PostId="12108" Score="1" Text="@Colin: Raising ISO raises the noise, *if the aperture and/or shutter speed are adjusted to reduce the amount of light getting to the sensor*, as is typically the case in autoexposure modes. To some people, this assumption is so natural that it is too obvious to state. To others, the assumption is so abhorrent that they break out in hives." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:02:48.480" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18676" PostId="12110" Text="Happy 10k @mattdm!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:03:58.653" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18677" PostId="12110" Text="@coneslayer: :) thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:04:24.763" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18678" PostId="12108" Text="@coneslayer: Well that's a fine way of looking at it, and photographers of course have different terminology that physicists, but the fact is that, all else being equal, higher ISO means higher noise. It does NOT mean a poorer *signal to noise ratio* however, and this is what really determines how &quot;noisy&quot; a photograph looks." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:06:34.640" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18679" PostId="12108" Text="It doesn't though. Look at the example I posted. Raising the ISO considerably reduced noise." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:06:39.083" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18680" PostId="12106" Text="@fusca: because people confuse the noise level with the signal to noise ratio, and because you don't need a degree in optical engineering to be a good photographer :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:07:40.070" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18682" PostId="12108" Text="@Colin, OK, I didn't catch that you were distinguishing between noise *per se* and SNR. As you note, it's SNR that affects the appearance of noise, so we hardly ever care about noise *per se* in photography." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:11:31.783" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18683" PostId="12111" Score="1" Text="Colin K is correct, this is an anaglyph (red/blue 3D) effect. But if you did want to create real chromatic aberration, see: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11262/is-there-an-easy-way-to-force-chromatic-aberration" CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:13:21.487" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18684" PostId="12114" Text="Right! I forgot to mention it looked like 3D on some spots, like on the glass. Definitely something to check out.&#xA;Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:15:25.887" UserId="323" />
  <row Id="18685" PostId="12108" Score="1" Text="@Matt Grum: But what did you have to do to take those photos? With the same shutter and aperture settings, you must have either used a lot of ND on the high ISO shot, or boosted the image brightness a lot in post-processing for the low ISO image (or some other manipulation of the light level). That means that your SNR on the sensor was actually much worse in the low ISO shot. That changed the *actual* SNR at the sensor, so anything you do after that to make the images comparable is going to amplify a lot of noise in the dimmer image." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:16:04.340" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18686" PostId="12102" Score="4" Text="Quantitatively, the depth of field formulas depend on a &quot;maximum allowable circle of confusion,&quot; which basically depends on what you consider to be &quot;acceptably sharp.&quot; Some people impose the same allowable CoC in all circumstances (sort of a quality metric for lenses), in which case this answer is correct. Others, including myself, believe this &quot;acceptable sharpness&quot; criterion only makes sense in the context of a finished work, e.g. a print. In that case, the maximum allowable CoC depends on the degree of enlargement, which in turn depends on sensor size." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:23:23.823" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18687" PostId="11378" Text="@Andres: This would even more closely replicate the CA that a lens produces if you leave out the scale changes. Just apply a varying amount of blur to the red, green, and blue channels. The scale changes would reproduce a chromatic *magnification error*, which is basically non-existent in any lens made in the last century :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:27:58.640" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18688" PostId="12106" Score="5" Text="Because it's counter-intuitive, and because noisy images tend to have been shot with high ISO, by association they attribute this to high ISO. So when you come along and say &quot;increasing ISO actually improves the signal to noise ratio (all else being equal)&quot; people refuse to accept it, even when you provide the results of a simple experiment that proves this." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:33:38.373" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18689" PostId="12112" Text="Are there multiple light sources? The ratio of reflectance from different sources will change when shooting a different scene, and this will affect WB." CreationDate="2011-05-16T16:38:28.337" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="18690" PostId="12112" Text="@Imre But the camera WB setting is set manually in his test, so it shouldn't be changing in response to what's in the scene." CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:11:21.350" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18691" PostId="12102" Text="@coneslayer - thank you, at last someone states the one fact that so many overlook. DoF is *not* **only** a function of f# and FL, but also of the output format and sensor size. It is a combination of them all!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:14:16.950" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18692" PostId="12101" Text="@MattGrum - &quot;physical size of the aperture&quot;! That is exactly the variable influencing the DoF, and not the f#, which is a relative figure. +1." CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:16:13.190" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18693" PostId="12110" Text="@mattdm - Welcome to the 10K club. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:21:50.483" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18694" PostId="12089" Text="@ysap: Its at least a millimeter, if not a little more. The light focused at the scale of a digital sensor is very sensitive to such distances, even though it may seem irrelevant to us on a normal scale. It takes less than a millimeter of change in depth of focus to have a visible effect in CoC...so you can imagine how a *relatively* gigantic speck of dust affects things." CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:31:19.803" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18696" PostId="11766" Text="My apologies to Itai and Guffa, as I thought all three answers were very interesting, and thanks for the comments following Guffas answer mattdm and Matt Grum. I wish I could have selected all of them." CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:37:14.777" UserId="2451" />
  <row Id="18697" PostId="11378" Text="@Colin There was *definitely* definitely a magnification error in my old 18-55 kit lens!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:50:41.470" UserId="2019" />
  <row Id="18698" PostId="12115" Score="2" Text="It's interesting that you disengage the aperture to prevent variation between shots. Are there no software tools to fine-tune the shot-to-shot variations? Panoramic stitching tools (e.g. hugin) do a fine job with that, so I would have thought there'd be a good software approach." CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:50:50.043" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18699" PostId="12112" Text="Could you give some clarification of how much &quot;slightly&quot; actually is? A change of a couple percent in the color temperature of a scene is probably quite normal, as illumination, from natural or artificial sources, is rarely perfectly constant. Particularly with fluorescent tubes, artificial lights tend to oscillate with current frequency, and daylight fluctuates with changing atmospherics." CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:54:00.753" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18701" PostId="12101" Text="Might want to change &quot;without moving the camera&quot;. To achieve the same framing when changing from a smaller to a larger sensor but maintaining lens and aperture (as stated in the quote in the question), you would indeed need to move the camera closer since you now have a wider FoV...and thats ultimately what changes DoF. " CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:57:27.677" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18702" PostId="12114" Score="2" Text="I put on some 3D glasses (don't know why we had those at work) and it gives a really cool effect! The background, the guy and the glass seem to be on 3 different planes. Try it out.&#xA;" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:07:45.573" UserId="323" />
  <row Id="18703" PostId="12099" Text="Yeah I changed focal length, as far as I'm concerned zooming counts as using the same lens (others seem to disagree)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:09:24.640" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18704" PostId="12106" Text="Thank you for the explanation." CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:10:37.663" UserId="4923" />
  <row Id="18705" PostId="12101" Text="@jrista you can zoom without changing the lens! I never said the focal length was maintained, only the optic that was used. As far as I'm concerned moving the camera results in a different image (as the relative positions of objects and their appearance can change), making the comparison invalid." CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:14:11.670" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18706" PostId="12115" Score="1" Text="@coneslayer: There are de-flickering plug-ins that one can use (dependent on the NLE that is being used) but the processing power and time it takes to normalize a large set of images (the OP will potentially have more-or-less 10,800 images to contend with) makes it potentially unwieldy and prohibitive as a solution. Personally, because disengaging the lens can save me literally *hours* of additional plug-in rendering time in post, I'll always choose to disengage the lens, which takes mere seconds to accomplish. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:16:51.963" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18707" PostId="11378" Text="@Autopulated: hmm, I guess I could believe that, particularly in an old zoom lens. It's damn hard to make a good zoom, and before computing power was cheap it was *incredibly* hard." CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:25:23.117" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18708" PostId="12102" Score="1" Text="I always assume the same final output size (in which you do get shallower DOF with the larger sensor) as it's not like people print images from P&amp;S cameras a tenth of the size as those from DSLRs, no people tend to print/view images the same size regardless of how large the sensor is!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:26:37.980" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18709" PostId="12057" Text="Thanks, that explains it. I don't need it for my D7000. Will probably go with the 55-300 or a tamron" CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:28:06.227" UserId="4209" />
  <row Id="18710" PostId="12101" Text="Depth of field can certainly be included under the broad umbrella of composition. And arguably shutter speed can as well, or at least can be a tool in composition when there's motion in the scene." CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:57:07.377" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18711" PostId="12102" Score="1" Text="@Matt: Me too, and I thought that was pretty well accepted, but see http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11291/why-invest-in-high-end-large-and-medium-format-digital-cameras/11311#comment-17087 for a dissenting opinion." CreationDate="2011-05-16T18:59:01.430" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="18712" PostId="12101" Text="@Matt: I would be curious what the actual subject distances were for your two shots, then. You obviously had to change the camera you were using. Was the subject distance identical between both shots, or did it change as you recomposed the shot to maintain framing and composition with the first shot? What was the focal length of the first shot, and what was the focal length of the second shot? In all the demonstrations of why FF has shallower depth of field than APS-C, the same lens (and focal length+aperture) were used, and only the subject distance changed to maintain framing/composition." CreationDate="2011-05-16T19:25:28.753" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18713" PostId="12101" Text="The moment you throw a dynamic focal length into the mix, I think it is harder to demonstrate the REAL reason why full-frame cameras have shallower DOF (given that focal length is a function of lens, while subject distance is a function of camera.) The question that then arises is...is the difference in DoF purely due to sensor size differences...and therefor subject distance, or is it also partially because of a different focal length? The formula for DOF involves focal length and subject distance, however sensor size itself is not an intrinsic component of the formula." CreationDate="2011-05-16T19:30:57.823" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18714" PostId="12101" Text="@jrista I can't remember the exact subject distance but I kept it as constant as possible between shots. Likewise I don't know the focal length (I'll see if I can look it up from the EXIF) but the length used with the 5D was about 1.6 times as long. I've seen plenty of sensor size DOF comparisons that vary focal length rather than subject distance, in fact I regard this as the correct way!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T19:58:23.460" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18715" PostId="12101" Text="@jrista cont. Imagine you are comparing the depth of field between a compact and FF DSLR, the crop factor is about 7, using the same focal length so you'd have to be seven times closer with the DSLR, which would yield a totally different looking image, and may even have problems focussing on the subject without a macro lens! I don't get what you mean by &quot;dynamic focal length&quot; masking the real reason FF DOF is shallower... the reason is simple, with FF you have a larger aperture for the same f stop &amp; field of view. Finally sensor size does factor in DOF equations as it has to do with CoC size." CreationDate="2011-05-16T20:09:45.157" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18716" PostId="12108" Score="1" Text="@Colin sorry I didn't read the bit about SNR, yes you get a higher absolute noise level when you increase ISO but you get a better signal to noise ratio. When I talk about noise I mean signal to noise ratio, as this is what determines the amount of noise you see in an image. To answer your question the ISO100 shot was underexposed. By boosting exposure digitally I amplified both the image noise *and* read noise giving a worse SNR compared to the analogue amplified high ISO image." CreationDate="2011-05-16T20:20:05.573" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18717" PostId="12108" Score="2" Text="@Matt: Then it was the proper exposure which gave you a better SNR. Applying gain to a signal (analog or digital) has, at best, no impact on SNR, and in practice actually reduces SNR somewhat. A higher ISO only gets you a better SNR when it allows you to get a better exposure. You demo was flawed in the sense that the 100 ISO shot was *not* properly exposed. If you repeat the test, but use ND filters or a change in lighting to make the low ISO shot exposed correctly, it will have equal or better SNR than the high ISO shot." CreationDate="2011-05-16T20:28:04.990" UserId="2877" />
  <row Id="18718" PostId="12118" Score="1" Text="What about the flag next to 18mm?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T20:50:34.263" UserId="926" />
  <row Id="18720" PostId="12118" Score="3" Text="@dunxd I think that just marks where the 18 mm really is (IIRC, it isn't straight down the &quot;18&quot;)" CreationDate="2011-05-16T20:56:15.743" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18721" PostId="5083" Text="If you're shooting in a church, maybe wait for the incense burner to come around?" CreationDate="2011-05-16T20:57:47.340" UserId="116" />
  <row Id="18722" PostId="12101" Text="@Matt: Regarding CoC size, that only matters if you are disproportionately scaling images between formats (i.e. you scale an APS-C image more to achieve the same print size as a FF image), and I don't think that necessarily applies to comparisons of DoF (you could make the argument, but eliminating it as a factor simplifies things.) Regarding changing focal length, yes, you can make the comparison that way, but more factors are in play (changing focal length changes physical aperture), and its harder to understand. When you change subject distance, ONLY distance changes, all else is static." CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:03:35.060" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18723" PostId="12101" Text="Were probably just talking semantics now, as either approach produces the same result. Its not that changing focal length between cameras is incorrect...but I do think it complicates the problem in the general case and makes the point harder to understand. (Comparing DOF between a P&amp;S and a FF DSLR is one thing...and perhaps changing focal length is your only option there, but I think the normal comparison is between APS-C, FF, and maybe MF.) I tend to opt for the simplest approach where the fewest variables possible change...but its certainly not the only viable approach." CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:06:25.913" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18725" PostId="12101" Score="1" Text="@jrista Of course you have to have to scale to the same output size when comparing sensors, otherwise if you compare a P&amp;S with a DSLR you wind up comparing  a 6&quot;x4&quot; to a postage stamp. It just doesn't make sense! There is exactly the same number of factors in play when comparing sensors and changing focal length and when comparing sensors by changing focal length: one. But changing focal length yields images that look roughly the same and have the same perspective, so that's clearly the right choice to me." CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:22:32.780" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18726" PostId="12121" Score="3" Text="I believe what the devices have are accelerometers and not gyros. By measuring the gravity vector along 3 axes, and with the addition of a compass, the device can resolve its orientation. Theoretically, you could do this with gyros, but calibration would be required each time you turn on the device. If there are gyros in the iPhone, my guess is that they only sense angular motion (e.g., for games) but not the orientation itself. Again, one can calculate this using accelerometers." CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:33:20.560" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18727" PostId="12121" Score="1" Text="@ysap: you should add your comment as an answer." CreationDate="2011-05-16T21:55:29.873" UserId="1271" />
  <row Id="18728" PostId="12101" Text="Why use a different approach when comparing a 2/3&quot; sensor to a 36mm sensor than you'd use to compare a 23mm sensor to a 36mm sensor? And again I fail to see why moving the camera closer means fewer variables change than if you zoom in. Exactly one variable changes in either case! " CreationDate="2011-05-16T22:21:23.490" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18729" PostId="12062" Text="I took a leap of faith and went ahead with wet cleaning.  After three Sensor Swabs, some Eclipse, and my blower bulb, the sensor was essentially clean without any damage.  Thanks for your help, @MattGrum and others!" CreationDate="2011-05-16T22:33:35.310" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18730" PostId="5147" Text="True - that's the downside." CreationDate="2011-05-16T22:45:45.610" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="18731" PostId="12121" Text="@PaulHadfield - technically, it does not answer the question, since I don't know for sure that no cameras have gyros." CreationDate="2011-05-16T23:15:00.393" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18732" PostId="12127" Text="Itai's comment implies that the Casio *does* use a sort of dead-reckoning to use sensors to estimate position." CreationDate="2011-05-16T23:36:17.703" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18733" PostId="12127" Text="@HenryJackson - What it means is probably that the camera have a GPS for tracking its position, but uses the accelerometers for local tracking, originating at the last reliable GPS recorded location. Continuous position estimates based on a $2 sensor set is guaranteed to drift in amounts that will render it useless for geotagging." CreationDate="2011-05-16T23:42:24.793" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18734" PostId="12122" Text="How heck the the camera can know your direction and speed without GPS?! Man, the future is so awesome!" CreationDate="2011-05-17T01:31:33.290" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18735" PostId="12122" Text="Sorry I was not clear enough I guess. It measures from the **last known GPS location**, so it has to get a GPS lock at some point and keeps calculating from there until the next GPS lock. The H20G **is** among the list of cameras with GPS." CreationDate="2011-05-17T01:44:19.497" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18736" PostId="12118" Score="1" Text="Yeah, the flag is because it doesn't quite turn all the way to where the 18 is at." CreationDate="2011-05-17T02:06:35.890" UserId="5068" />
  <row Id="18737" PostId="12122" Text="@Itai But it really can detect your movements or it just traces a straight line from the last gps lock to the new one? (BTW, may be I sounded ironic, but i was really amazed about the tracking thingy)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T02:10:11.027" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18739" PostId="12128" Score="1" Text="@jr If that is the case on your copy of the lens, then there must be considerable manufacturing variation, because the point of least extension on mine is 31 mm--the setting shown in the photo.  It's roughly 1 mm longer at the mark, a visible difference.  Do you have a reference for &quot;by design&quot;?  I looked on the Canon site but couldn't find any such information." CreationDate="2011-05-17T02:43:47.277" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18740" PostId="12122" Score="2" Text="Yes, it tracks movements using 3-way sensors for direction and rotation. It has to since it geotags BEFORE reaching the next GPS lock: http://www.casio.com/products/Cameras/Hybrid-GPS/EX-H20G/" CreationDate="2011-05-17T02:51:57.517" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18741" PostId="12128" Text="I've had two copies of this lens and used a friends that came with his 500D, and both encountered least extension at that dot, or ever so slightly after (28.5-29mm?) I know its 28mm because if I take a photograph and check the exif, it says 28mm when I zoom to the dot. I am pretty sure the dot specifically means 28mm by design, however regarding the extension, my information is anecdotal. It does seem that the lens &quot;bottoms&quot; at the mark, and remains there till 30-31mm, then extends again. The photo appears quite a bit LESS extended than my lenses have ever reached...not sure why." CreationDate="2011-05-17T03:05:59.643" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18742" PostId="12128" Score="1" Text="I just had a though, and checked the back element. Between 28mm and 31mm, the back element on my current copy moves quite a bit, while the front element stays &quot;bottomed&quot;...then both the front and back elements move towards the front of the lens. There may indeed be manufacturing variation, although so much variation seems unusual." CreationDate="2011-05-17T03:11:26.847" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18743" PostId="12118" Score="1" Text="They have corrected the problem in version II of this lens, the dot is no longer there and you can freely get back to taking pictures ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T03:24:19.567" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18745" PostId="12088" Score="1" Text="An f/0.9 lens should allow in more than twice as much light than an f/1.4, and an f/0.5 would be 3 _stops_ faster than f/1.4." CreationDate="2011-05-17T04:35:34.763" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="18746" PostId="12128" Score="1" Text="@jr nice observation about the back element.  The lens has a gritty feel and doesn't move easily, so some variation wouldn't be surprising at all.  Out of curiosity, why do you suppose Canon would want to mark the point of least extension?  To make it easy to pack up?  (All my other zooms are fixed length and don't have any such dot, which is suggestive...)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T05:22:05.080" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18748" PostId="12088" Score="1" Text="@Evan (continuing your thought) ... letting in *8 times* more light and requiring a diameter 1.4/0.5 = 2.8 times greater (much more than &quot;nearly twice&quot;).  In short, any f/0.5 lens has to collect light across a disk twice as wide as its focal length and still manage to focus it in a *plane* with reasonable sharpness." CreationDate="2011-05-17T05:41:42.490" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18749" PostId="12128" Text="@Whuber: Not really sure, but thats as good an explanation as any. All of my other lenses except a telephoto are all internally focusing/zooming, and none of them have a dot either. " CreationDate="2011-05-17T05:53:11.107" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18750" PostId="12115" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - seams my D60 dont like taking pics with no lens attached - I get a flashing F_ _ on the screen - did I do it right?" CreationDate="2011-05-17T06:42:49.893" UserId="5052" />
  <row Id="18752" PostId="12115" Text="According to the troubleshooting section in your D60 manual (page 172) if your lens 'is not a CPU lens' (which it won't be once you've rotated the lens and your camera no longer has any control over it) you'll want to make sure you've got your camera set to M mode as that's the only mode that will work..." CreationDate="2011-05-17T07:51:29.130" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18753" PostId="12115" Text="@Jay Lance Photography I will have a go at that tonight-thanks for the tip o nthe auto bracketing - turns out though via cam control pro I cant auto bracked the D60 (you can on later models) - maybe I could go for diffrent software? Also why would I not use aperture prior. mode to handle the light changes? - the lights will come on after the meal but will prob. go low again when the dancing starts " CreationDate="2011-05-17T09:26:42.513" UserId="5052" />
  <row Id="18755" PostId="3992" Text="@ysap It's the same lens in the sense that I didn't take anything off the camera, I don't think most people consider zooming to be &quot;changing lenses&quot;. When I have time I'll shoot some better examples, including one where a different fstop is used to get the same DOF." CreationDate="2011-05-17T10:04:30.453" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="18756" PostId="12051" Text="**Canon 600D** is missing from the list..." CreationDate="2011-05-17T10:57:33.567" UserId="2110" />
  <row Id="18757" PostId="12071" Text="+1 for the coke  ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:10:20.140" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="18758" PostId="3992" Text="@MattGrum - I'd dare to say that for the specific purpose of explaining this topic, most people actually *do* consider that as a lens change (maybe we should conduct a poll?). However, once you mentioned that in the comment, then the situation became clear." CreationDate="2011-05-17T12:10:20.893" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18759" PostId="8993" Text="Hint: Lens hoods are good for stopping the fence from scratching your lens." CreationDate="2011-05-17T13:45:14.410" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18761" PostId="12088" Text="@jr Thanks for the clarification.  I didn't catch that you were talking about area and not f/number.  In fact, your message still refers to &quot;an f/0.5 lens&quot; and &quot;an f/1.4 lens,&quot; so you might want to recheck that you are using the f/ notation consistently with your intended meaning." CreationDate="2011-05-17T14:06:59.030" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18762" PostId="12128" Text="dpreview of this lens also indicates that the small dot denotes the 28mm position: http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/canon_18-55_3p5-5p6_is_c16/page2.asp" CreationDate="2011-05-17T14:18:35.817" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="18763" PostId="12102" Text="@coneslayer - see the update in my answer. Thanks for your interesting comment which prompted me to think more about this stuff." CreationDate="2011-05-17T14:44:27.857" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18764" PostId="12102" Score="1" Text="+1 for _&quot;If we simply and more correctly to the purpose of our analysis assume both have enough pixels to print a fixed size we want without noticeable loss in quality, what we get in prints from the smaller sensor is like a cropped enlargement of the print from the bigger sensor, so we can indeed see a difference in depth of field, that is, we see more detail so it's easier to spot slightly out-of-focus areas.&quot;_ A smaller sensor or a crop from the large sensor have exactly the same effect of increasing apparent DoF when enlarged." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:12:30.797" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18766" PostId="12132" Score="3" Text="Photography is a hobby for a lot of us — _that_ definitely doesn't invalidate the question. The problem is that the question is kind of vague and open-ended, making it hard to give a correct answer — which means it _may_ not work so well for this site." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:32:02.993" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18767" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="I think this question can be easily saved by saying what you don't like about this and we can help guide you in a direction to change that.  Personally, I think contrast is too low and a different angle in the composition would help." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:34:52.667" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18768" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="It's still a very interesting question, and I'd love to hear what the excellent photographers here have to say. Perhaps if it was made community wiki?" CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:46:16.307" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18769" PostId="12102" Text="@mattdm - thanks, it's good to hear some confirmation. I was a bit afraid of messing everything up in such an involuted analysis." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:47:03.710" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18770" PostId="12132" Text="@rfusca Changed the title but still couldn't find a better one. Please feel free to edit." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:48:12.573" UserId="2867" />
  <row Id="18771" PostId="12132" Text="@Craig Walker flagged to make it CW!" CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:48:28.643" UserId="2867" />
  <row Id="18772" PostId="12132" Text="@Shoban - What specifically don't *you* like about it and maybe we can help with that." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:51:20.157" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18773" PostId="12132" Score="2" Text="See also [Should Photo Critiques be allowed?](http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/150/should-photo-critiques-be-allowed) and [How can we do photo critiques?](http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/815/how-can-we-do-photo-critiques) on [meta](http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/)." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:54:00.137" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18774" PostId="12132" Score="4" Text="Either the question is too general and it should be closed (which is what it currently is IMO).  OR it gets edited to be more specific about what aspect you don't like and what could be done to change it.   Its awfully general right now.  This really isn't what CW is meant for." CreationDate="2011-05-17T15:54:10.763" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18775" PostId="12132" Text="IMHO this is a good question, as in some way it's not really asking for general critique. it can be seen as asking suggestions to get a good shot of a specific thing (a bit like showing a photo of a person with, say, blue eyes, black hair and a big nose, to get advice on good techniques for a portrait of someone having such characters). it's easy to make this more accurate so everyone will be happy with it, and it is good that many have suggested this." CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:16:28.337" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18776" PostId="10932" Score="1" Text="Although I'd be loathe to characterise fireworks as inanimate!" CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:18:31.347" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18777" PostId="12131" Score="3" Text="+1 for bringing some data to the table!  Someone with a copy of the 24-105mm ought to be able to test the least extension at 28mm hypothesis - hopefully they can post a comment here with the result." CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:24:21.450" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18778" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="I've edited the question a little bit to focus it somewhat. I've put some words in your mouth in doing that, @Shoban, so please fix it back if it's not what you meant, and/or elaborate. Particularly, it would be helpful to know what you _don't_ like about your current image." CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:25:39.937" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18779" PostId="9088" Text="Or use manual focus :)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:26:33.117" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18781" PostId="10932" Text="@fmark - well, that's... uh. I thought about it. Common sense says you're right, but &quot;inanimate&quot; could be seen as &quot;not alive&quot; or &quot;not moving willingly&quot;. like, leaves are inanimate objects, they can be blown by the wind and still be considered inanimate, see my point? maybe it can't be called still life... Flowers and fruits, instead, strictly speaking are alive, but they make for some great still life. Maybe &quot;fireworks photography&quot; is a dignified form of art in itself ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:33:09.847" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18782" PostId="12128" Text="@Jakub Indeed they do: thanks.  However, that still doesn't tell us whether its purpose is to indicate 28 mm or whether that's an accidental feature.  If this is its purpose, it's not well calibrated: on my lens it corresponds to 27 mm; I have to move it about a half-hair to get to 28 mm (not that there's any practical difference...I'm just saying)." CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:33:25.550" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18783" PostId="12088" Text="@jr Then I'm woefully confused.  Please correct my misunderstanding of either (or both) of these crucial points.  (1) The &quot;f/&quot; notation is conventional. It *only* means the ratio of the entrance *diameter* to the focal length, never anything else.  (2) The area of a shape is proportional to the *square* of its diameter.  These are the basis of @Evan's analysis and of my continuation, but I can't reconcile them with your analysis." CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:38:10.177" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18784" PostId="11255" Text="@rfusca Do you know of the data source for the artificial light overlay? I ask because I'm interested in getting data for Australia rather than the USA." CreationDate="2011-05-17T16:56:44.153" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18785" PostId="11255" Text="@fmark - sorry I don't.  I thought I remembered seeing a worldwide one, but I can't find it now." CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:02:32.137" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18786" PostId="11255" Text="@rfusca No worries.  I'll report back here if I track one down." CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:04:47.110" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18787" PostId="12088" Text="On the most recent edit — f/0.9 to f/1.4 is about 1⅓ stops, right? So that's 2^1⅓ times the light, or about 2.5×. And (as Evan says) f/0.5 to f/1.4 is a full three stops, or 8× the light. This is nitpicking and doesn't alter your point in any way. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:05:35.613" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18788" PostId="12115" Score="1" Text="Here's the problem with aperture priority mode... Your lens has to be engaged in order for the camera to control the aperture... Which brings us back to the problem I mentioned in note [4]... Because dSLRs have rough 'steps' between exposures (1/8-1/3 eV) your aperture will 'wander' slightly between shots. Unfortunately this wandering is what causes really obvious flickering in timelapse photography, and **especially**  pronounced flickering when the lighting is changing (such as a day-to-night transition, or a lit-to-darkened-dancefloor transition)..." CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:19:19.733" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18789" PostId="12115" Score="1" Text="I have not personally used it (so this isn't so much an endorsement as a 'you may want to check it out'), but I've been told that 'Cam Control' (http://www.d-software.co.za/) can do bracketing for the D60... The good news is that it's free, so it won't cost a bunch to check it out and see if it's going to meet your needs..." CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:23:11.227" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18790" PostId="12115" Score="1" Text="I haven't used this one either, but a friend just recommended giving 'Diyphotobits Camera Control' (http://www.diyphotobits.com/download-diyphotobitscom-camera-control/) Also free, so like Cam Control at least you won't need to drop any coin to see if it'll work for you..." CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:25:53.037" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18791" PostId="12075" Text="I think the comment by @jrista here is a crucial part of the overall answer — while it's possible to make the exit and entrance pupils asymmetrical, that's not conventional in lens design and would almost certainly add to the expense. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pupil_magnification " CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:25:54.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18792" PostId="12137" Text="Paul, please see http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/8544/film-making if you're interested in having a place on Stack Exchange for this kind of question." CreationDate="2011-05-17T17:58:14.770" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18793" PostId="12137" Text="mattdm, thanks for your suggestion! I will look into that. If anyone can help with this I would still be appreciative of any feedback though." CreationDate="2011-05-17T18:10:45.777" UserId="5212" />
  <row Id="18794" PostId="12137" Score="1" Text="I'm voting to close because while I agree that there is some overlap between dSLR photography and dSLR videography I don't think video *editing* is where we should be drawing the &quot;on topic/off topic&quot; line..." CreationDate="2011-05-17T18:43:19.100" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18795" PostId="12140" Text="I'm not sure if its illegal - but most big stores won't allow it if they catch you." CreationDate="2011-05-17T18:44:07.830" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18796" PostId="12142" Text="Identifiable for the general public or to who might sue you?  If its a unique display inside the store - does that make it identifiable?" CreationDate="2011-05-17T18:51:13.127" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18797" PostId="12088" Text="@whuber: I apologize for the confusion, and it may be the result of zero sleep for the last four days. So, let me clarify my terms, let me know if we agree or disagree, and I'll update my answer accordingly. The amount of light that passes through a lens, the STOPS OF DIFFERENCE, is relative to the *area of the aperture*, or the *area of the hole in the diaphragm*. I believe there is approx. a three-stop difference between f/1.4 and f/0.5, correct (8x more light)? The SIZE of the aperture, its diameter, is the focal length divided by the relative aperture. That affects lens tube diameter." CreationDate="2011-05-17T18:53:56.597" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18798" PostId="12088" Text="@whuber: Ok, after writing that last comment, it seems I intermixed &quot;stops of light&quot;, &quot;volume of light&quot; and &quot;physical aperture size&quot;. I've corrected my answer with what I believe are the correct numbers for the apertures in play, f/1.4, f/0.9 and f/0.5. Apologies for the mixup." CreationDate="2011-05-17T18:58:29.387" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18799" PostId="12140" Score="1" Text="This depends entirely on what country you are talking about. Please state your country of residence as laws regarding this will differ from nation to nation." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:04:06.953" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="18800" PostId="12143" Text="I've had store managers chase me down and tell me &quot;No, delete the picture&quot; before.  It's about protecting their intellectual property from competition." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:04:22.943" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18801" PostId="12143" Text="I think this is exactly why the issue should be handled up front. If there reason isn't a valid reason for not wanting you to take pictures, then it's their problem not yours, there are plenty of places out there that would love the attention of a photographer being in their business. I know because I have experienced only positive reactions when I have been in this situation and handled it upfront." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:17:11.053" UserId="5212" />
  <row Id="18802" PostId="12143" Score="3" Text="@rfusca: Legally speaking- here in the US anyway- a store employee can ask you to stop taking pictures and leave the premises, but they have no legal grounds to 'confiscate your equipment' or force you to delete any photographs that you've taken. That's more of a 'know your rights' thing though... Someone who doesn't know that an employee can't take your camera away might willingly hand it over when confronted." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:18:44.887" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18803" PostId="12143" Score="1" Text="Sorry, I was really agreeing that you should ask up front - just not that everybody will say yes." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:19:35.037" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18804" PostId="12143" Text="Ok I see, my fault for misunderstanding." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:22:28.350" UserId="5212" />
  <row Id="18805" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="Everyone, Sorry if my question was misleading. I din't know how to phrase it. The subject  looks  very interesting but the end result is not what I was expecting. I am just learning and wanted your ideas so that I don't miss any of my future shots. " CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:23:21.173" UserId="2867" />
  <row Id="18806" PostId="12140" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10601/has-there-ever-been-a-ruling-on-the-necessity-legality-of-a-property-release-fo" CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:35:57.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18808" PostId="12146" Text="Good site, thanks for the link." CreationDate="2011-05-17T19:54:13.607" UserId="5126" />
  <row Id="18810" PostId="12022" Text="These are great!  Some of those cameras are quite a challenge, but they certainly cleaned up nicely." CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:07:48.390" UserId="1651" />
  <row Id="18811" PostId="12088" Text="@jr Thanks (+1).  I agree with @mattdm that it's a nit but clearing it up is one of those details that makes for good, lasting answers." CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:12:13.260" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18812" PostId="12141" Score="2" Text="Is this strictly from the point of view of getting a copyright notice in the metadata somehow? Is there a special need of some sort that would lead you to one over another?" CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:13:01.100" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18813" PostId="12137" Text="Actually, http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production — there are several duplicate proposal." CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:21:51.683" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18814" PostId="12142" Text="+1 for all the caveats. You make it clear that it's a tricky question to answer." CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:43:00.723" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="18815" PostId="12093" Text="+1 Fascinating.  I was wondering whether there were geometric limits to the f/stop and figured that somewhere around f/0.7 or so would be the limit for *singlet* (simple) lenses using ordinary glasses.  However, it occurred to me that one conceivably could get extremely low f/stops with compound lenses, such as retrotelephoto lenses, or possibly even fiber optics, so I would hesitate to claim that f/0.5 or even f/0.25 is an ultimate limit: people are clever about breaking such apparent barriers!" CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:51:57.563" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18816" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="Keep in mind the lamp post photo is just an example - the question seems to be more about basic composition concepts. Isolation and context spring to mind." CreationDate="2011-05-17T20:52:00.927" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="18817" PostId="12142" Text="Note that despite all of the hubub we see about propery / location releases, there has never actually been a court case that determined one was needed: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/10601/has-there-ever-been-a-ruling-on-the-necessity-legality-of-a-property-release-fo" CreationDate="2011-05-17T21:21:55.153" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="18818" PostId="9088" Text="Not much fun on an 18-55... designed for manual focus it is most certainly not!" CreationDate="2011-05-17T21:49:48.997" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="18819" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="Ah... I just noticed @mattdm edited the title, so the original question was indeed asking about this specific photo and thus the initial comments and answers were referring to it. However, the edited title is a better way of phrasing the question." CreationDate="2011-05-17T22:58:13.627" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="18820" PostId="12148" Text="HA! Just love the name...'Gigantar' just exudes a special feeling just hearing it!" CreationDate="2011-05-17T23:19:48.990" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18821" PostId="12132" Text="@Leorex: the _original_ original title was not specific: it was &quot;How to take better street art or interesting photographs?&quot;. So I went back a slightly-more-specific version of that." CreationDate="2011-05-17T23:20:45.680" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18822" PostId="12131" Text="I would say that some lenses having the mark, but it not being at 28mm, does not necessarily rule out that it means 28mm on the lens pictured in the original question (which, given my experience, it definitely does.) I think the reason for a dot, rather than the full number 28, was ultimately a space issue. The 28mm focal length is pretty common (unlike 27mm), however it is very near to 24mm...and printing '28' on the lens might end up confusing users to thinking they are at 28mm, when they are actually at 30mm." CreationDate="2011-05-18T00:23:07.793" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18823" PostId="12131" Score="2" Text="Even if this dot did show up on other lenses without a 28mm focal length, I would assume it was meant for the same purpose...to indicate a common and useful focal length that couldn't otherwise be printed in an accurate location due to space limitations." CreationDate="2011-05-18T00:23:57.780" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18824" PostId="12042" Text="@Leorex - I'm curious, how did you find the location?" CreationDate="2011-05-18T00:58:37.330" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18825" PostId="12147" Score="5" Text="That last photo is tripping me out." CreationDate="2011-05-18T00:59:56.923" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18826" PostId="12051" Text="Damn international naming! ;) IIRC, it is known as the Rebel T3i in North America." CreationDate="2011-05-18T01:25:04.403" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18827" PostId="12131" Text="Sorry - is there a lens that's got the mark where it's not at 28mm?    The only two where I saw the mark both have it at 28mm, plus the Sigma lenses, from what I understand, too.  The mark on the 24-105 L is a little misleading at first glance, but remember that the little flag icon actually represents 24mm, so the dot right next to it does, indeed, appear to be at 28mm." CreationDate="2011-05-18T01:38:43.753" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18828" PostId="12141" Text="I want to put my name and email address in the metadata of my photos. This is primarily for copyright reasons, since the photos will be on my blog. That is all." CreationDate="2011-05-18T01:54:18.230" UserId="4941" />
  <row Id="18829" PostId="12042" Text="@ysap - Deduction. I recognised the pattern, having shot through fences before. When challenged, I thought a link to photo with similar effect would suffice - but didn't find anything suitable. The original question had a link to Flickr, the photo was in a 'San Francisco' set. I found the bay on Google Maps, and a fenceline surrounding Vista Point Overlook - but I didn't find any decent photos showing the fence. Back in Maps, lining up the point and far and near jetties per the photo didn't lead to Vista Point Overlook, but the bridge. Recreating the view in Streetview, there was the fence!" CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:08:33.283" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="18830" PostId="12132" Score="1" Text="This has been flagged a couple times. For now, there seem to be some very good answers, and this question has certainly spurred some good discussion. I don't really think it should be CW, and I personally don't want to close it myself, as my vote is immediately binding. I think its up to the community to decide how it wants to handle questions like this. I certainly don't see any problem reworking the question to make it more viable, as there are some very good and useful answers so far." CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:13:37.680" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18831" PostId="12042" Text="@Leorex - &quot;The original question had a link to Flickr&quot; this was the piece that I was missing. Going to the linked image (imgur) I could not find any information. Now that you pointed out that there was a Flickr link in a previous version, it explained it." CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:16:55.320" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18832" PostId="12141" Text="I'm assuming JPEG files?" CreationDate="2011-05-18T02:49:21.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18833" PostId="12093" Text="Perhaps this is the thread you got that info from? http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=241629 It provides some equations and puts some extreme values in to guess at maximum f-numbers." CreationDate="2011-05-18T03:07:07.233" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18834" PostId="12003" Text="Bulb mode can be used for fireworks. You do this by keep your shutter open for any period that you like because with the fireworks you dont get overexposed as most of the time you will be shooting the sky which will not. The advantage of doing that would be having multiple fireworks in the same shot even though they would have not been fired in sync. " CreationDate="2011-05-18T04:26:39.580" UserId="4786" />
  <row Id="18835" PostId="12150" Score="7" Text="This isn't an answer per-se, but I just wanted to comment and say that I have been working professionally as a photographer for ~15 years now and for better than 95% of my shots I *only* use the center point for AF. In fact, the only time I really use anything else is if I'm working on a tripod and I have the composition locked down and the focal point happens to be off-center... Anyway, like I said- not really a standalone answer, but I did want to validate your question and your instinct..." CreationDate="2011-05-18T04:39:19.340" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18836" PostId="12152" Text="Naturally, this discrepancy be more noticeable with shallower depths of field (large aperture, close focusing, etc).  In addition, many lenses have a field curvature, so you can't exactly predict how the focus plane will fall across the field.  There is also focus shift, but that is something that this can't fix." CreationDate="2011-05-18T06:16:58.497" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="18838" PostId="12099" Text="When you are zooming you are changing the focal length - and it is focal length that is the critical aspect here. Whether you do it by swapping one prime lens for another or by zooming a zoom lens is irrelevant." CreationDate="2011-05-18T08:21:07.487" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="18840" PostId="12156" Text="exactly what I was thinking" CreationDate="2011-05-18T08:46:11.033" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18841" PostId="12156" Text="I experienced this yesterday night, taking photos of the moon." CreationDate="2011-05-18T08:47:23.637" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18842" PostId="12157" Text="What is your budget ceiling?  You are looking at &quot;start-up&quot;lenses, but in this kind of photography there is always a better (faster, longer, sharper) and thus more expensive lens." CreationDate="2011-05-18T08:48:17.493" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18843" PostId="12157" Score="1" Text="You might want to check the answers on this question about birdwatching: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2413/lenses-for-macro-and-for-birdwatching-for-canon-and-nikon  The answers for Canon will all work on your camera." CreationDate="2011-05-18T08:57:18.203" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18844" PostId="12157" Text="@fmark I would put it something about £800-900. I know there is always something &quot;better&quot;. Thank you for the link" CreationDate="2011-05-18T09:14:01.283" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18845" PostId="12115" Text="I tried 'Cam Control'  - it looks perfect for what I want to do but when I ran it on my pc (Windows 7 - compat mode) it came back with an exception about a file. I will try the other you suggested tonight - Thank you so much Jay your time on this has been excellent" CreationDate="2011-05-18T09:27:50.033" UserId="5052" />
  <row Id="18846" PostId="12157" Text="Is this a discussion site?" CreationDate="2011-05-18T09:28:41.123" UserId="5019" />
  <row Id="18847" PostId="12157" Text="@ceving your question is not clear. What you asking? Or you considering my question inappropriate?" CreationDate="2011-05-18T09:59:21.373" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18848" PostId="12159" Text="Not at the moment. However it is interesting idea that can be well used on &quot;observation spots&quot; (not sure if that is correct English term for hunters hiding spots something like this http://www.kucera.sk/SK/foto_wpt_Zapadne/posed/posed%20P082001.JPG)" CreationDate="2011-05-18T10:08:18.030" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18849" PostId="12150" Text="There are also reasons to *avoid* selecting another focus point on low-end cameras. On my Canon 500D, other AF points seem to be of much lower quality in comparison with the center AF point. For a while I tried to use other AF points, but I was disappointed with the results. Even if I shoot something that is &quot;easy&quot; (clear contrasts, fairly flat object, nothing distracting anywhere near the AF point), and even if I get the AF confirmation, far too often I got photos where the focus was off. I switched back to the center point and focus &amp; recompose, and it works exactly as it should work." CreationDate="2011-05-18T10:40:39.567" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18850" PostId="12105" Text="and a good store won't carry used gear of questionable quality and history. They either scrap it (cutting their loss on the deal) or sell it on to more shady businesses. There's very few stores I'd buy used gear from without getting a 30 day or longer return policy I can trust for that reason." CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:14:17.353" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="18851" PostId="12100" Score="3" Text="actually some energy in the non-visible parts of the spectrum (specifically infra red and ultra violet) is indeed absorbed by the glass and coatings." CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:18:30.173" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="18852" PostId="12160" Score="1" Text="+1 for &quot;why&quot; -- this is important." CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:41:34.720" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18853" PostId="2420" Text="I would say the push-pull design for zooming is not unique. I own a (quite old) tamron 70-200 f/3.8-4 and it works exactly like you said. Just trivia :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:41:44.953" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18854" PostId="12157" Text="Peter, ceving is right, if not very polite about it. &quot;What do you think?&quot; is way too broad of a question to be useful. See http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/ for some advice on asking equipment recommendation questions that work." CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:44:47.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18855" PostId="12157" Score="1" Text="&quot;What do you think&quot; is a bit open-ended.  Per @gjb's answer, it's important to understand where you feel your current equipment falls short.  Maybe there's a question to be had here about what are the most important aspects of lens performance to consider for wildlife photography -- then you could evaluate those two lenses with respect to those measures." CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:51:51.097" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18856" PostId="2413" Score="1" Text="This question is way out of date (newer Sony models are much better at high ISO — including ones announced a few weeks after this was asked), and it's really split between very different use cases (bird watching and macro, with the 50mm prime thrown in). And then there's the Nikon-vs-Canon brand debate. In short, this really doesn't make a good equipment recommendation and should be closed." CreationDate="2011-05-18T11:53:22.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18857" PostId="12163" Text="Thanks for posting this.  I saw this years ago and thought about it while searching for P&amp;S photographers but couldn't even remember for what I needed to search to find it." CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:01:24.147" UserId="1651" />
  <row Id="18858" PostId="12150" Score="1" Text="@Jukka usually the center point is, especially with the widest apertures, a *cross-type AF sensor* (see: [Understanding Camera Autofocus](http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-autofocus.htm) @ Cambridge in Colour). I used to compose the scene, then select the focus points I wanted to be in focus, *then* focus and take the picture. Nowadays I usually focus the elements that I want to be in focus *first* with the center point and *then* recompose &amp; take the picture -- at least with AF-lenses." CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:04:18.917" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18859" PostId="12160" Text="The 28-300 do not get me close enough as I would like to. There to much of surrounding. At this point I have to get close to photographed animal which is with wild animals difficult" CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:05:36.237" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18860" PostId="2413" Score="2" Text="Your assumption is wrong. Not only technology has improved but Sony has always made the sensors for Nikon (and Pentax), so cameras of the same age will perform extremely similarly." CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:11:06.337" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18861" PostId="12163" Score="1" Text="Those were great cameras. Sure, they're relatively compact and they use a small sensor, but they're very well-featured &quot;bridge cameras&quot;. Crucially, though, they were _not cheap_. I paid $600 for my C-5060. I think the C-5050 was even more expensive when it came out. Dpreview categorized it as &quot;prosumer&quot;, even. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympusc5050z/page21.asp" CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:15:04.837" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18862" PostId="12163" Text="(Sure, $600 is cheap compared to a Hasselblad, but it's well within the price range of a _nice_ entry-level dSLR. And definitely not sub-$250.)" CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:26:37.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18863" PostId="12163" Text="Point taken, I must not have paid attention to the price point the question had set." CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:27:46.493" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="18864" PostId="2413" Text="@Itai, you're right.  The Pentax K-5, Nikon D7000, Nikon D5100, Sony α580, and Sony α55 all share the same 16-megapixel Exmor APS HD CMOS image sensor with about 13.5-14 stops of dynamic range.  Additionally, the Pentax K-r and K-x both use a 12-megapixel Exmor CMOS image sensor." CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:37:00.073" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18865" PostId="12156" Text="@Mattia Gobbi: If you're taking pictures of the moon, you could also just manually focus to infinity and forget the AF system." CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:52:44.030" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18866" PostId="12137" Text="I have signed up for that one mattdm, I noticed it after your first recommendation, thanks! Also, I fully understand about this thread being closed, I mainly wanted to see what the reception would be like here. I will look forward to using this site for it's main use which doesn't include video. Thanks for the input everyone!" CreationDate="2011-05-18T12:55:15.790" UserId="5212" />
  <row Id="18867" PostId="2413" Text="@mattdm - I almost fully agree, but isn't it ok to ask:&quot;good affordable macro and birdwatching lenses for canon or nikon?&quot; If you see it as asking advice on some types of lenses to decide which body to buy, it's not completely a bad question. He could narrow it down a bit, so not to deserve it to be closed." CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:01:03.620" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18868" PostId="12147" Score="1" Text="+1 This is an excellent answer to a open ended question - well done" CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:02:29.370" UserId="5052" />
  <row Id="18869" PostId="2413" Text="@Itai: well, you'd think. But there was a period there (shortly before this question was asked) when Sony's own low-end offerings were particularly poor even though other brands were using better Sony sensors." CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:04:40.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18870" PostId="2413" Text="@Mattia Gobbi: at the very least, those should be two separate questions." CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:05:09.820" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18871" PostId="2413" Text="@DragonLord - really interesting! even more interesting, the 13.5-14 stops of dynamic range. I didn't think that was possible, I always saw reviews of professional cameras with tests stating dynamic ranges most times between 9 and 11 stops. I remember the Nikon D3s as reviewed and tested by &quot;PC Photo&quot; (an italian magazine) had 8 stops." CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:08:17.610" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18872" PostId="2413" Text="@mattdm - right" CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:09:05.817" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18873" PostId="2413" Text="@MattiaGobbi: See this DxOMark comparison for an idea of what this image sensor can do: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Camera-Sensor/Compare/Compare-sensors/%28appareil1%29/676|0/%28appareil2%29/685|0/%28appareil3%29/680|0/%28onglet%29/0/%28brand%29/Pentax/%28brand2%29/Sony/%28brand3%29/Nikon  Well, technology has advanced to the point where APS-C image sensors are clearly competitive with full-frame sensors..." CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:18:00.960" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18874" PostId="2413" Text="With this kind of dynamic range, seeing is believing: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=955995" CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:24:00.050" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="18875" PostId="12156" Score="1" Text="@Henry - no way, that gets me out of focus. At least on my tamron 70-210mm 1:3.8-4, which only has manual focus, infinity is infinity :-) It is hard to see if things really are on focus at night, so you need the camera to tell you focus is ok, and as the clouds are moving you want your shots to be already framed around the moon, to shoot at the right moment w/o adjusting the tripod head." CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:28:57.447" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18876" PostId="2413" Score="1" Text="@DragonLord - I see and I believe! and it gets even more frustrating when one can't afford oneself all this dynamic range goodness. I'll pretend I don't care just 'cause I don't want it too easy ;-) everybody, repeat with me: good sensors are for sissies!" CreationDate="2011-05-18T13:37:00.297" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18877" PostId="12164" Score="5" Text="Considering most job descriptions state 'any other work as and when required' I'd say you're lucky to be offered any money at all..." CreationDate="2011-05-18T15:47:06.397" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18879" PostId="12156" Text="@Mattia: I haven't tried this, but I'm surprised that the moon doesn't count as &quot;infinity&quot; for focusing. How much further away would you want to focus?? When I get a clear night I guess I'll try this with my lenses, but this is not what I would expect. Perhaps your lens is out of alignment?" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:43:36.977" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="18880" PostId="12158" Text="I believe that the OP asks with respect to manual selection of the AF point. Tracking BIF is done with the one of the automatic modes." CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:11:12.660" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18881" PostId="12166" Text="+1 &quot;AI Servo&quot; + &quot;Focus and Recompose&quot; = PITA!" CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:12:57.790" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18882" PostId="12152" Text="+1 this point was explained very well in Zack Arias' recent weekend workshop @ CreativeLIVE." CreationDate="2011-05-18T17:16:52.733" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18883" PostId="12166" Score="1" Text="@Chris @ysap unless you [change the AF-trigger button away from the shutter](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/23/what-is-something-you-learned-recently-about-your-gear-that-you-wish-you-discover/7687#7687)" CreationDate="2011-05-18T18:23:47.420" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18884" PostId="12164" Score="1" Text="Off topic: Nice pictures! No wonder you have more requests. " CreationDate="2011-05-18T18:24:17.923" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="18885" PostId="12156" Text="@Henry - hum, I think my lens is ok, it never gave problems. it just focuses right a tiny tiny bit before the end of the scale, for objects far away. maybe it's because I wanted to focus the clouds, not the moon, but they also should count as infinity... another fact for this lens is it gives a very shallow depth of field, due to its focal length, and there's like 5 or 10 mm between the 10m and the infinity marks on its focus ring, so in that range high precision is required. nevertheless, manual focus is quite a breeze. I will try focusing at infinity with other lenses! " CreationDate="2011-05-18T18:59:11.780" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18886" PostId="12170" Score="1" Text="No camera function is useless, some just aren't as *useful*." CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:16:03.853" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="18888" PostId="12152" Score="1" Text="+1 I don't fully understand this, but I like the picture." CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:20:39.543" UserId="1950" />
  <row Id="18890" PostId="12164" Text="Thanks for the title edit, Matt. Much clearer." CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:20:10.570" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="18891" PostId="12175" Text="Your samples are broken." CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:22:51.487" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18892" PostId="12165" Score="1" Text="Great feedback. I'm a software developer, and a bit worried that becoming the 'official company photographer' would interfere with that." CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:22:55.107" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="18893" PostId="12175" Text="Should be fixed." CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:25:44.777" UserId="1803" />
  <row Id="18894" PostId="12171" Score="4" Text="I guess the key question is this: If you are shooting raw, is HTP *exactly equal to underexposing by 1 stop* (so that you have 1 stop of extra headroom at the cost of losing dynamic range in shadows), or does it do something more advanced that cannot be simulated by appropriate post-processing? Different web sites seem to give conflicting answers regarding this part." CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:30:51.583" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18895" PostId="12154" Score="1" Text="+1 because even the simplest &quot;action&quot; suffices: taking a picture of a smiling newborn where the face is off-centre (e.g. capturing mothers and childs faces in one picture) and you wouldn't have the time/nerve to recompose." CreationDate="2011-05-18T20:58:59.820" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="18896" PostId="12178" Text="@y0mbo - take a look at http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12087/why-use-a-small-aperture-when-trying-to-see-sensor-dust." CreationDate="2011-05-18T21:42:59.110" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18897" PostId="12170" Text="I disagree Jukka. People might have insight as to its effectiveness. I personally just shoot raw though :)" CreationDate="2011-05-18T23:10:56.057" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="18898" PostId="12170" Text="Seems that my english sucks very hard; nice edit @jrista!" CreationDate="2011-05-18T23:56:43.800" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18900" PostId="12180" Text="Uhmmm, seems that HTP does nothing special to the sensor. According to this description, Lightroom could achieve the same results." CreationDate="2011-05-19T01:32:01.253" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18901" PostId="12171" Text="@Jukka According to @Dr.Elch answer, HTP doesn't put the sensor in a special mode or else. Just in-camera post-processing." CreationDate="2011-05-19T01:33:12.220" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18902" PostId="12180" Text="Well it seems to restrict your ISO range, but apart from that it is nothing that can't be achieved otherwise. I have seen lots of video folks that are dealing with ALO and HTP when using their canon DSLRs since here these changes can have a higher impact on the results obviously." CreationDate="2011-05-19T01:37:13.213" UserId="4675" />
  <row Id="18903" PostId="12178" Text="Yep, looks like dust to me too." CreationDate="2011-05-19T01:48:38.503" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18904" PostId="12180" Text="@Andres: The benefit of HTP is that it can help prevent you from capturing a photo with BLOWN highlights...or highlights that are unrecoverable even with Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-05-19T02:02:05.673" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18905" PostId="12178" Text="I do not understand how aperture size can possibly affect how dust on the *sensor* appears.  It will affect the appearance of dust on the lens, of course, but on the sensor it's basically shadowing the light.  It makes no difference how the light got there because the dust is directly on the sensor." CreationDate="2011-05-19T02:38:59.603" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18906" PostId="11470" Text="Beware of laser lights in a nightclub setting. Many eye-safe lasers are class 1M, where the M means they're fine as long as they're not viewed through optics which may focus the beam to non-eye safe levels. So such a laser could potentially damage your eyes if viewed through the camera, so if there are any lasers being used, you may want to check if they're class 1 or class 1M. If 1M, then consider using LiveView or equivalent." CreationDate="2011-05-19T02:48:14.583" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18907" PostId="11470" Text="Also worth noting that nightclub style lasers have damaged cameras in the past. http://gizmodo.com/5596508/laser-light-show-vs-dslr-sensor As far as I've looked, they're all 5Ds and were all damaged during video, so I don't know if it's a particularly sensitive sensor for laser damage, but be aware of the possibility of damage to your sensor (noting that LiveView would be equivalent to videoing, so saving your eyes might be bad for your CMOS sensor... though the latter is cheaper/easier to replace ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T02:51:27.623" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="18908" PostId="12181" Text="OMG! I could get a pretty decent fast prime lens for $330! Given the headroom of RAW these days...I'd say skip it and save for some long-lasting optics. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T02:53:17.687" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18909" PostId="12157" Text="I'm having a harder time with the &quot;not sufficient for wildlife&quot; statement. I have a friend shooting wildlife using this very lens on a Canon 7D, so what's not sufficient about it? In other words, are you sure that the lens is really your limiting factor?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T03:51:23.653" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18910" PostId="12181" Text="@jrista Promote's shutter release is too much.. an ordinary one shouldn't cost over US$30 from ebay." CreationDate="2011-05-19T03:54:00.627" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="18911" PostId="12178" Score="1" Text="@whuber: look at jrista's answer to the question @ysap linked. The short answer is that dust doesn't get on the sensor proper, but on the front of the filters (and such) a few millimeters in front of the sensor." CreationDate="2011-05-19T03:54:50.210" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18912" PostId="12182" Text="@jrista, in D90 3 brackets will require 3 clicks on **single shot mode** or 1 click/hold on both **low/high continuous mode**. When using an intervalometer, should I be expect the remote release to trigger 1 single shot? or will the remote relese triggers multiple shots (within specified time frame) when in continous mode? Also, I understand the capability to stretch tone map from a single 12-bit RAW instead of brackets of 3, but that is bit off topic." CreationDate="2011-05-19T03:59:28.327" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="18913" PostId="11394" Score="1" Text="I've done the test, the HDR generated from 3 bracketed shots gave me a tack sharp HDR with no noise but the HDR from exposure corrected imges generated much more noise in the merged HDR, it was almost unusuable. I used Photomatix 4.0." CreationDate="2011-05-19T04:07:08.853" UserId="2476" />
  <row Id="18914" PostId="12182" Text="@rockacola: I have a rather cheap ($40) intervalometer myself, and when my Canon 450D is in continuous mode with bracketing enabled, it triggers all three shots. It would really depend on the design of the intervalometer and the capabilities of the camera, and how the two interact." CreationDate="2011-05-19T04:29:00.337" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18915" PostId="12182" Text="@jrista mind sharing the branch/model of your intervalometer? :D I have seen many that requires to be on **bulb** mode when using, looks like that's not what I want." CreationDate="2011-05-19T04:57:33.193" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="18917" PostId="12157" Text="@John Cavan, please find my reply as comment to gjb answer below" CreationDate="2011-05-19T06:01:38.630" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18918" PostId="12171" Text="@Andres: [This page](http://www.guillermoluijk.com/article/htp/) seems to confirm it; it claims that it has actually compared HTP ISO 200 and regular ISO 100, and the raw files are &quot;identical&quot;. *However*, for example Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III marketing material claims that &quot;Highlight Tone Priority expands the available range of capture in the highlights, yet it exacts no penalties in either shadow detail or other aspects of image capture.&quot; Could it be the case that HTP is implemented in a different manner in higher-end cameras?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T06:29:20.823" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18919" PostId="12186" Text="This would probably be better on http://superuser.com/." CreationDate="2011-05-19T07:51:53.833" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18920" PostId="12160" Text="@gjb can you please be more specific on Canon EF 200mm f2.8L USM model. I have found only Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM that is around that £600" CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:06:00.333" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18921" PostId="12190" Text="Thanks for your great answer! I understand now. I was afraid that my camera was broken somehow. Glad I'm wrong. Thanks again!" CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:18:34.677" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="18922" PostId="12188" Score="1" Text="Thanks a lot for your answer! I am indeed in category #3. Sadly, photography has become such a commodity today and as you say that makes it hard for serious photogs to get noticed. :(" CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:21:43.923" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="18923" PostId="12187" Text="Thanks a lot for your answer. I will indeed apply to photography magazines! All of them! :)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:22:27.967" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="18924" PostId="12190" Text="@rabbid — glad to help, and welcome to Photo-SE!" CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:29:46.123" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18925" PostId="12193" Score="1" Text="A few important questions for background — when you say recently, do you mean the problem started recently and was fine before, or that you only noticed recently? And second, can you give an idea of what focal length range the problem occurs at? Finally, do the images seem sharp at high focal lengths if you focus manually?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:38:26.727" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18926" PostId="12184" Text="For reference: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6098/tips-on-how-to-get-into-photojournalism/6118#6118 Although my answer was related to photojournalism, my advice would be nearly the same for travel photography..." CreationDate="2011-05-19T08:58:58.790" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18927" PostId="12193" Text="It started happening recently only, it used to work fine earlier. It usually happens around the range 35-55mm or somewhere around this. I never tried to focus manually when the problem happened i just tried to recompose or change the focal length and it worked. " CreationDate="2011-05-19T09:00:00.117" UserId="1209" />
  <row Id="18928" PostId="12188" Text="If they really laugh at you at NatGeo for that reason, then we have a clear evidence whats wrong with journalism..." CreationDate="2011-05-19T09:47:27.390" UserId="4675" />
  <row Id="18929" PostId="12087" Text="Perhaps this question could be extended to cover other aspects: Does it matter if I use a wide-angle lens or a telephoto lens? A zoom or a prime? Defocus to infinity or very close? (At least with some quick experiments that I did, all other things being equal, dust was easier to spot with a *shorter* focal length – however, the combination of a short focal length and small aperture meant that the background was not defocused enough...)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T10:06:18.810" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18930" PostId="12097" Score="1" Text="plus, if I'm not mistaken, the modern lenses are made of some sort of plastic or another organic polymer and not of glass, which makes it even more sensitive to the heat damages." CreationDate="2011-05-19T10:08:56.700" UserId="5231" />
  <row Id="18931" PostId="12160" Score="1" Text="@peter: A 200mm lens is not going to be useful, if you think that a 300mm lens is not long enough..." CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:00:38.513" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18932" PostId="12188" Text="I doubt they would laugh you out of the office based on portfolio size. If your images are remarkable and are relevant to them I am sure they would show interest. Turn up with a bunch of iPhone photos and the former might happen." CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:21:10.360" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18933" PostId="12196" Score="1" Text="If you kept everything the same but then changed the ISO you have changed the exposure. What do you mean by 'fogginess' ?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:32:50.990" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="18934" PostId="12160" Text="@Jukka Suomela, consider it part of a research ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:37:12.693" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="18935" PostId="12197" Score="5" Text="What do you mean by &quot;shadowed&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:40:37.863" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="18936" PostId="12196" Text="Did you use a tripod in both cases?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:44:01.520" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18937" PostId="12195" Text="I always thought the laws in the USA were relatively simple: if you're on a public street, you can photograph anything (provided it's not military etc)." CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:46:41.720" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18938" PostId="12173" Score="1" Text="When you say HTP affects RAW files what do you mean?  Do you mean that the sensed data stored in the RAW file is different, or that the RAW file comes with additional processing instructions on how the image should be &quot;developed&quot;? To put it another way, can I get an effect using HTP that I couldn't get by exposing differently and then developing my RAW file in the appropriate manner?  Apologies if I have the terminology wrong here." CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:58:42.090" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18939" PostId="12195" Score="1" Text="Could this, perhaps, be reworded to apply worldwide and then made to community wiki, so that there would be one country per answer? CW would be great as more people could add the bits of info they know." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:05:45.040" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18940" PostId="12195" Score="1" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1008/resource-for-photographers-rights-around-the-world which is related question, though it asks *for* resources and this question could be turned *to a resource*." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:06:26.053" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18941" PostId="12173" Text="To clarify, [Thomas Knoll states](http://forums.adobe.com/message/1384318) that &quot;`As the raw level, HTP drops the ISO by 1 stop and underexposes by 1 stop.`&quot;  Is this the case, or is there something more going on?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:17:08.367" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18942" PostId="12193" Text="Have you checked the EXIF info for some of the old photos that focused ok to make sure you're dealing with similar conditions?  Low light is a killer for autofocus.  It might also help to describe the behavior you're seeing when autofocus fails (ie, focus hunts back and forth)." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:26:06.020" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="18943" PostId="12195" Score="1" Text="http://www.fotorecht.de/ looks like a useful compendium for German if you speak German (I don't)." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:36:03.443" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18944" PostId="12195" Text="Also, I believe @che is from the Czech Republic, he may be able to give you a detailed answer about the situation there. " CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:42:08.370" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="18945" PostId="12194" Text="INCREDIBLE ANSWER! I really have no comment other than to say THANKS! I guess at the most basic level it still comes down to hard work and who you know, just like every other business in the universe. " CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:45:23.533" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="18946" PostId="12196" Score="2" Text="Could you post the images somewhere which preserves EXIF data, or post that somewhere?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:45:30.630" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18947" PostId="12199" Score="2" Text="I _think_ the blurrier one is also focused a bit further back, but it's hard to tell." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:46:17.120" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18948" PostId="12199" Text="Another issue is simply that the 18-55 kit zoom has to have a lot more compromises, not just because it's a zoom, but because it's got to be cheap, even with must-have-to-sell features like VR." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:47:13.733" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18949" PostId="11489" Text="I bought the &quot;complete solution&quot;, and you had right, I have got 20 % off on this last one after I had watched a webinar - thanks for your advice" CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:53:30.950" UserId="78" />
  <row Id="18950" PostId="12160" Text="@peter_budo Sorry, I meant the 200mm f2.8L II USM, but you might find this too short unless your subjects are the size of an elephant, or you are pretty close." CreationDate="2011-05-19T12:54:28.890" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="18951" PostId="12200" Text="Just FYI, Nikon DSLRs don't use the red light system - a black bracket appears around the selected focus point. I don't think they can make LEDs small enough to have them actually fixed to the focus screen, I would imagine they are reflected onto it." CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:27:56.477" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18952" PostId="10418" Text="Ditto here - I chose to go with an 'unlimited' plan at [CrashPlan](http://www.crashplan.com), which takes care of automatically backing up everything as it gets around to it. No hassle with manual processes and it costs about the same as a large, external hard-drive." CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:29:36.433" UserId="187" />
  <row Id="18953" PostId="12199" Text="Yes, not to mention the fact that A) prime lenses are inherently sharper than zooms and B) the Nikon 35mm is well known for being very sharp, especially when stopped down a little." CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:33:49.937" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18954" PostId="12087" Text="@JukkaSuomela - which is why, I guess, the best method will be to test aiming at clear blue skies." CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:43:43.237" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18955" PostId="12200" Score="1" Text="@ElendilTheTall - LEDs are P-N junctions like any other diode, or transistor to that matter. As such I don't see why you can't nake them as tiny as a lithographed transistor." CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:53:34.423" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18956" PostId="11489" Text="Thanks, did not remember it was as high as 20%.  I think that may be the usual discount." CreationDate="2011-05-19T13:54:16.280" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="18957" PostId="12182" Text="Unless the intervalometer also has a light meter too, bulb would preclude timelapse over long periods such as those that include day-to-night transitions, sunrise, sunsets, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:01:13.157" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="18958" PostId="12200" Text="@ysap: Interesting. @MattDM: The black brackets in my Nikon D5000 viewfinder certainly look like liquid crystal 'images'." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:03:43.243" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18959" PostId="12191" Text="I'm curious what problems too-strong contrast might cause." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:07:45.130" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18961" PostId="12171" Text="Since most of the &quot;special features&quot; are developed for the high end products and then &quot;downported&quot; to the cheaper versions, I think that no, the Mark III doesn't have a different HTP version that a 550D, for example, could have." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:16:12.230" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18962" PostId="12191" Text="It's more of a problem with non-spot focusing. Say, for example, your subject is indoors, standing next to an open door with daylight coming in, so part of the frame is brightly lit and the rest in relative darkness. Spot focusing will probably be fine, area autofocusing might get confused." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:23:46.060" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18963" PostId="12178" Text="@Jerry Thanks.  That makes good sense.  I did not realize the filters were at such a (relatively large) distance from the sensor." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:24:27.743" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="18964" PostId="11217" Text="@user4856 - my rep is not high enough to downvote, but I would if I could. getting something because of higher numbers is a dumb way to choose something to buy, even more so with cameras. Nikon top level 10000$ cameras have 12Mp, do you think they suck? you could get a semi-pro quality D90 plus a lens better than the ones you already own, for 850€. Just sayin'." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:30:45.197" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18965" PostId="12207" Text="Wow. As far as I can tell, the LEDs are mounted on the elastic PCB strip, mounted in front of a small prism and reflected from the focusing screen, which is in line with @ElendilTheTall speculation. (at least for this specific camera)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:34:01.903" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18966" PostId="12207" Score="1" Text="What I don't really understand is how, from what looks to be 7 LEDs they produce 11 focus points?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:35:20.670" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18967" PostId="12200" Text="@ysap: There are a couple of reasons. First of all, a red LED will normally be gallium aluminium arsenide. At least TTBOMK, nobody knows how to fab it at *nearly* as fine if feature sizes as typical silicon CMOS processes do. Second, a smaller feature size means lower power dissipation capability (and therefore lower brightness). A typical LED produces 8-9 lumens/watt. The new higher-power LEDs are quite a bit different, but probably not applicable here." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:35:21.653" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18968" PostId="12200" Text="@JerryCoffin - Thanks. I don't expect the power of miniaturized LEDs to be like this of a regular one. Then, if the problem is the material, then make it in another color. I understand, form what you comment, that it is currently impossible to fab GaAlAs diode in 45nm process, but for this application you don't really need such miniaturization. Nor do you need a great power, given the proximity to the sensor (eye)." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:39:49.950" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18969" PostId="11217" Text="@user4856 - update: I didn't notice this was an old thread, whatever. now my rep is enough to downvote this analysis, it's plain wrong from a photographer's point of view. screw this comment system, it's close to impossible to update comments you already wrote." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:43:45.457" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18970" PostId="12191" Text="As in, it'll grab the high-contrast thing which it shouldn't?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:53:04.780" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18971" PostId="12191" Text="It'll tend to either focus on whatever's outside, or find a better edge-match with say, the door frame, than the actual subject." CreationDate="2011-05-19T14:59:18.023" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="18972" PostId="1528" Text="I don't think I *could* vote up when I answered this question originally." CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:20:13.557" UserId="443" />
  <row Id="18973" PostId="12199" Text="see, the 18-55 is a pretty sharp lens. mtf charts on nikonusa.com; I had a quick look and it seems in the center (both at the wide and at the tele end) it's even sharper than the 35mm. using both of these lenses quite often, this doesn't sound so strange to me. so it's hard to tell. " CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:22:08.747" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18974" PostId="11560" Text="the 18-55 when zoomed in gets you closer to things than any cheap lens, and by cheap I mean below 500 bucks" CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:30:06.883" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18975" PostId="12207" Text="@ysap: Why do you think there are 7 LEDs?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:31:56.893" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="18976" PostId="1528" Text="Now you can. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T15:35:11.983" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18977" PostId="12209" Text="Is this what you're looking for: http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Photoshop/11.0/WS438DC1E5-3DA4-49a2-A625-A87156D488A3.html?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:06:17.360" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18978" PostId="11231" Text="+1 - well said &lt;br&gt;" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:09:02.543" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="18979" PostId="12200" Text="@ysap: right -- I wasn't trying to say they need to be *huge*, just that there *are* reasons they are (and probably just about need to be) larger than most typical transistors. Most of the materials that produce other colors are at least as difficult to produce in fine feature sizes. Fabrication is hard enough that most LEDs are produced on 3 inch wafers where most CMOS is now done in 300 mm (12 inch) wafers (and though it's not used for production yet, they're working on 450mm/18in wafer fabrication)." CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:11:08.097" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="18980" PostId="12209" Text="@matt - thanks. when I open a DNG image in Adobe, The camera raw --&gt;Camera profile setting says - &quot;Embedded&quot;. Any pointers what does this mean. Does this mean the DNG metadata has this profile in it which adobe has found embedded in the dng file?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:37:30.457" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="18981" PostId="12199" Text="Looking at mtf charts only tells you the performance of a lens wide open in lab conditions (See http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/mtf.htm).  While this can be useful, it is not readily applicable to the situation as stated here since we are not comparing images that are taken wide open in both cases." CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:39:43.043" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="18982" PostId="12207" Text="@JukkaSuomela - from the diagram of part 0-O170, and from images 6 and 7 it **looks like** the white parts are the surface-mounted LEDs. As there are 7 of them in the diagram, one can conclude that. It *can* be that only the five elements that are in a line are actually LEDs, but the same mystery remains. It can also be that I am totally wrong in my speculation..." CreationDate="2011-05-19T17:09:45.090" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18983" PostId="12196" Text="I will take new pictures, unfortunately I do not have a tripod, but I'm sure I can find something similar. I will also try to take more pictures demonstrating the effect, with a higher aperture and in better lighting. I did a photo run the other day and had to throw away practically every picture because of this problem... I have a hard time defining it better than &quot;fogginess&quot;, but I will try to take some pictures to show the effect." CreationDate="2011-05-19T17:10:35.527" UserId="5234" />
  <row Id="18984" PostId="12212" Text="You will need a metallic surface to attach to, won't you?" CreationDate="2011-05-19T19:00:30.187" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="18985" PostId="12182" Score="1" Text="Sure...I think its this one: http://www.amazon.com/Studiohut-Control-Shutter-Digital-compatible/dp/B00404VLK0/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1305835303&amp;sr=8-16...although I can't be sure. The brand name is different, so maybe the company that made them before got bought out. The nice thing about it is it supports up to 9999 shots, which very few intervalometers seem to do. The price is very good, too...and it seem to work quite well with my 450D's continuous mode, and it also takes care of &quot;half-press&quot; for metering and IS activation...so Itai's concern shouldn't be a problem with it." CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:04:09.700" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18986" PostId="11489" Text="there were 2 discounts : 10-15 % for one product and 20 % off for the &quot;complete solution&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:05:30.183" UserId="78" />
  <row Id="18987" PostId="12173" Text="@fmark: HTP is achieved by the camera internally changing the exposure settings as you stated...so the output from the sensor affects *every* image, RAW or JPEG. This is *in contrast with* ALO, which is only applied during image processing when saving to JPEG...and therefor does not affect RAW files. You could get the HTP effect by raw processing...however, if you BLOW your highlights, no amount of post-processing will recover them...they are clipped. The benefit of HTP is highlights are preserved in-camera...which reduces the chances of you accidentally clipping them." CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:07:36.513" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18988" PostId="12166" Text="@koiyu +1 comment! LOVE my back-button focus! Couldn't work without it..." CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:09:47.577" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="18989" PostId="12205" Text="Hmm, that might work out indeed. I was a bit concerned about performance, python isn't exactly the fastest language, and it quire quite some gigabytes of pictures. But the bottleneck is IO probably, so if programmed correctly it'll be only limited by that." CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:15:18.237" UserId="4613" />
  <row Id="18990" PostId="12213" Score="3" Text="This question is off-topic here. Join us in the Video.SE proposal on [Area51](http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/2797/video-and-film-production)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:31:00.643" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="18991" PostId="12209" Score="2" Text="I think this is getting downvotes because people feel that programming an image processing pipeline is off topic. But it's also kind of long and hard to follow. (And I think the screenshot actually makes things worse in this case.)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T20:43:42.003" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="18992" PostId="12209" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean those folders are for presets of their namesake tools, e.g. `Gradients/` includes different gradient settings for use in i.a. gradient-tool and gradient overlay -effect; and `Black and White/` includes preset settings for Black &amp; White tool found under Image → Adjustments. I think they are not relevant for this question." CreationDate="2011-05-19T21:57:41.363" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="18993" PostId="12192" Text="Thanks for your answer! Great stuff :)" CreationDate="2011-05-19T23:03:33.770" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="18994" PostId="12213" Text="Hate to say it, but video processing is something we have decided is off topic here. While we are ok responding to questions about recording video with still-photo camera equipment, thats kind of where we have to draw the line. I highly recommend you hop on over to Area51 and support the proposal from @Andres to get the Video-SE site started. " CreationDate="2011-05-19T23:47:42.627" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="18995" PostId="12182" Text="@jrista ouch, I couldn't wait and make my purchase last night: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/110688608332 . I did not look thoroughly and only now realise the one I purchased only takes max 399 shots :'( Rest of the spec seems the same." CreationDate="2011-05-19T23:54:38.890" UserId="4320" />
  <row Id="18996" PostId="12207" Score="2" Text="Note that at least Pentax and Canon share different methods.  You lose the ability to light up focus points when switching screens on Canon, but not Pentax." CreationDate="2011-05-20T00:11:26.957" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="18997" PostId="12215" Score="1" Text="Good question! :)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T01:41:11.483" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="18998" PostId="12215" Score="3" Text="I so want to say &quot;use it&quot; as an answer, but I don't want to sound like a jerk doing so. However, I think it's legit. In other words, don't expend effort on determining if it is &quot;operating correctly&quot; as it is meaningles, expend effort on determining if you like what you get from it." CreationDate="2011-05-20T03:05:30.693" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="18999" PostId="12200" Text="The D3100 uses a different system than the D3000 or D7000 (and other Nikons, I assume). Instead of the brackets or squares, it actually has LEDs that light up." CreationDate="2011-05-20T03:08:15.510" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19000" PostId="12200" Text="Also, the X100's hybrid viewfinder uses a [beam splitter and a backlit LCD off to the side.](http://www.finepix-x100.com/en/story/viewfinder)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T03:11:04.433" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19001" PostId="12216" Score="4" Text="Unless you know something more, there is nothing special about these photos that require any manipulation of any kind. These exposures can be obtained directly from any camera with manual controls, be it $150 or $5000. See my answer to another question: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12012/examples-of-great-photos-from-cheap-cameras/12018#12018" CreationDate="2011-05-20T03:55:38.607" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19002" PostId="12193" Text="yes that is what exactly happens, the lens elements move back and forth and they cant focus." CreationDate="2011-05-20T05:01:07.080" UserId="1209" />
  <row Id="19003" PostId="12197" Text="When the red colored lights glow, I could also see the shadow of the light (kind of smudged)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:13:13.830" UserId="5235" />
  <row Id="19004" PostId="12173" Text="Thanks for the clarification" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:28:02.357" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19005" PostId="12220" Text="@chuqui WOW. A great comment and valuable suggestions there! I was already peaking into Canon telephoto lenses, now I just need to find some company close by to rent lenses :p Once again BIG THANK YOU for great input" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:35:57.783" UserId="5216" />
  <row Id="19006" PostId="12096" Text="Good Idea, I'll try to." CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:38:24.383" UserId="2025" />
  <row Id="19007" PostId="12209" Text="People get too picky and use their reps in downvoting i feel. This qns is about &quot;photographic processing or retouching&quot;. Nowhere I intend to ask how can I do it programatically. " CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:40:37.457" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="19008" PostId="12224" Text="Exactly as I thought. Thanks for confirming my observation. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T09:31:29.580" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19009" PostId="12222" Text="I think it's an interesting question, I just find the idea of &quot;naturally occuring bokeh&quot; a bit amusing ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T09:54:46.087" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="19010" PostId="12226" Text="Have a look at: http://www.niksoftware.com/colorefexpro/usa/entry.php" CreationDate="2011-05-20T10:33:52.000" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19011" PostId="12222" Text="The only contribution I can make is to note that you have a spelling mistake in your title ('occurring')." CreationDate="2011-05-20T10:53:35.813" UserId="5176" />
  <row Id="19012" PostId="12229" Text="Optics can work like that, for example extreme field curvature can give you a sphere of focus rather than a plane of focus and cause the areas surrounding a subject to be OOF" CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:07:40.083" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19013" PostId="12222" Text="@gerikson Totally, my first thought was &quot;is this bokeh naturally occurring, or was it planted by someone? If so who?&quot; Perhaps we'll never know..." CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:13:17.923" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19014" PostId="12222" Score="2" Text="@bryn — you don't need to complain about typos. Instead, use the `edit` link to fix them. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:35:21.847" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19015" PostId="12223" Text="*&quot;[…] perhaps the individual RAW files contain sufficient information (in the file header) regarding the colour calibration of the camera sensor to make the specific temperature transformation more deterministic?&quot;* [Yes.](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11400/how-does-photoshop-lightroom-get-the-colour-temperature-of-a-raw-image/11401) The example is for Canon's raw, so the location differs a bit for other brands." CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:36:39.863" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19016" PostId="12230" Score="3" Text="The photographer says as much, but this doesn't explain why the ground at the same distance as the couple abruptly stops being in focus." CreationDate="2011-05-20T12:14:28.777" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19017" PostId="12223" Text="Thanks that was a very useful link! Though I'm still unsure of how to change from one colour temperature to another?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T12:16:31.983" UserId="4348" />
  <row Id="19018" PostId="12196" Score="1" Text="@JamWheel a 10% variation in ISO won't unduly effect the results of this experiment, the f/stop and t/stop will vary a small amount between lens designs even if the ISO was the same." CreationDate="2011-05-20T12:19:11.160" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19019" PostId="12212" Text="Suggestion was to put some heavy staples into the wall and then the magnet on the picture, or get those magnets that stick to one another. " CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:00:49.243" UserId="2492" />
  <row Id="19020" PostId="12229" Text="a similar effect can indeed be achieved with a tilt shift lens. However, as Matt already pointed out this appears to be a &quot;fake&quot; (post-processed) tilt shift effect.  " CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:20:56.067" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="19021" PostId="12166" Text="@koiyu , I wasn't aware of that. I think I'll give that a try!" CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:34:23.897" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19022" PostId="12222" Score="1" Text="@mattdm: The 6-character minimum edit is infuriating to me when I'm trying to copyedit. (Though I don't think that applies to titles.)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:37:28.480" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="19023" PostId="12223" Text="Raw images are always *interpreted* with some instruction set of which the Exif info on white balance RGGB levels are one aspect. JPGs in turn are more or less composite images in which all the info is hardcoded and edits are destructive. I can't provide good examples, but I'd dive into [ImageMagick](http://www.imagemagick.org/) which is a command line image editor with several program interfaces. Its [`-color-matrix`](http://www.imagemagick.org/script/command-line-options.php#color-matrix) option might get you started; see also: http://www.fmwconcepts.com/imagemagick/whitebalance/index.php" CreationDate="2011-05-20T13:43:05.323" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19024" PostId="12207" Text="@Eruditass also note that focusing screen &amp; focus point screen constructs differ between Canons: xxxxD &amp; xxxD &amp; 10D **vs.** xD &amp; xxD. See this kawaii explanation: http://www.focusingscreen.com/work/canon_aps_docen.htm" CreationDate="2011-05-20T14:19:52.907" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19025" PostId="12216" Text="Take a look at the pictures' Exif infos' on flickr: [#1](http://www.flickr.com/photos/malinthepix/5729985347/meta/in/photostream/) and [#2](http://www.flickr.com/photos/malinthepix/5384563043/meta/in/photostream/) They tell you exactly what camera settings the photographer was using." CreationDate="2011-05-20T14:32:06.110" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19026" PostId="12234" Text="Good stuff.  Mind if I ask why you want to lock the focus?  I assume that implies a fairly large DOF, too, right?  Do you happen to know the aperture for these photos?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T14:50:12.503" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19027" PostId="12234" Score="4" Text="Locking the focus is important if you shoot with the camera stationary as otherwise the AF system could lock onto the background once your subject moves past the active AF point(s). If you pan the camera to track the subject it's less of a problem. I'll dig out the camera settings when I get home (and post a bigger image)." CreationDate="2011-05-20T15:17:59.663" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19028" PostId="12235" Text="Awesome answer, I really like how you take the holistic approach and cover not just testing, but becoming familiar with the new equipment." CreationDate="2011-05-20T15:30:27.323" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19029" PostId="12232" Text="Suggest this as an edit to Matt Grum's answer." CreationDate="2011-05-20T15:46:46.593" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="19030" PostId="12225" Score="2" Text="This question is somewhat subjective but useful, and an answer would be a list of possible problems that would benefit from collaborative editing, especially when there are answers that are intended to be added to one master answer.  Flagging for moderator to make community wiki." CreationDate="2011-05-20T15:48:06.953" UserId="4506" />
  <row Id="19031" PostId="12239" Text="I wasn't suggesting field curvature was responsible for the image (which the photographer states was 'shopped) just that is was  theoretically possible optically to have a subject in focus and the ground either side not to be, though it would take a pretty extreme lens to produce the effec." CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:09:49.103" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19032" PostId="12239" Text="@Matt: right -- I wasn't really trying to argue your point. Rather, there are quite a few people who've never use them, who tend to treat T/S and/or field curvature as almost magical, so I thought I'd try to point out a little more about what kind of things they can and can't do. Bottom line is that I agree with you on both counts: it's theoretically possible, but *extremely* unlikely." CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:14:28.717" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19033" PostId="5694" Text="@glenneroo heh, and I'm fairly sure if you asked it over on parenting.SE I'd migrate it right back here. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:29:21.487" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="19034" PostId="12239" Text="Great example! Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:30:00.753" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19035" PostId="12236" Text="That sounds like a whole lotta work that could be done in seconds in Photoshop :)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:30:31.487" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19036" PostId="12229" Text="I agree with your assessment. " CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:31:41.627" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19037" PostId="5704" Text="+1 for anything that has better IQ than the v-tech's 1/4 vga sensor and non-optical grade plastic &quot;lens&quot;. AND at ~$50, it's less than 1/2 what you'd pay for a vtech." CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:32:09.537" UserId="1872" />
  <row Id="19038" PostId="12234" Text="Thanks.  I've seen the focus problem when panning - that makes sense.  The DOF is also something that I'm starting to recognize as I see more of these shots -- that's one of those things I hadn't thought about previously." CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:34:58.093" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19039" PostId="12226" Score="1" Text="Do we have permission to be displaying these pictures here? If not, they need to be converted to links..." CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:36:27.177" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19040" PostId="12244" Text="@jrista Thanks for your answer. So low contrast, and low highlights. I observed those too, but I still can't reproduce this effect. My colors are still off. Do you have an example photo that mimics Sean's photos? Thanks! Btw also agree with &quot;retro journalistic.&quot; :)" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:37:23.090" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19041" PostId="12227" Text="Thanks for your answer. I agree with low contrast. I think also low highlights, and sometimes high recovery helps too. I still can't reproduce Sean's looks after applying these changes though. I've never been very good with split tones, never really sure what color combos I'm supposed to use. Do you happen to have any example that mimics Sean's photos? Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:39:01.840" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19042" PostId="12241" Text="Do you think some &quot;superzoom&quot; like 18-200, 3.5-5.6 with optical stabilization and some faster AF could do the trick? Is there some good available for Sony Alpha or Nicon ?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:44:14.037" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19043" PostId="12226" Text="Sorry about that. Converted to links. " CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:46:16.503" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19044" PostId="12226" Text="@john-cavan are you saying that's a piece of software the photog uses?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:53:07.653" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19045" PostId="12241" Text="Or some shorter zoom would be better? For example 28-150 equivalent for 35mm?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:53:09.847" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19046" PostId="12244" Text="@rabbid: Most of my work is nature, so its hard to compare. Remember that another key factor is a lot of desaturation. You can try desaturating the entire image, or try desaturating certain color ranges or channels by varying degrees. You might try a little duotoning to create a strong separation between key colors. Also remember, not low highlights...clipped highlights...where the histogram blows a little out in the extreme highlights range." CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:01:16.043" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19047" PostId="12244" Text="@jrista actually I'm not so sure I agree with low contrast. I just tweaked some stuff in LR and it seems like some high contrast. What do you think?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:09:13.620" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19048" PostId="12227" Score="1" Text="Actually, I'm not so sure I agree with low contrast. I just played around with some photos in LR and I feel like it should be medium to high contrast. What do you think? Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:10:00.810" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19049" PostId="12220" Score="1" Text="for a couple of practical images on the Tamron lens, http://www.flickr.com/photos/chuqui/5735034215/in/photostream (shot at 40mm), and http://www.flickr.com/photos/chuqui/5731259543/in/photostream/ (shot at 300mm). you can see how soft the detail on the bear is at 300mm. that's not acceptable. but at wider ranges, the lens does fine. " CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:15:16.153" UserId="705" />
  <row Id="19050" PostId="12227" Score="1" Text="I agree rabbid, the contrast is fairly high - there are true blacks and whites in there. It looks to me to be kind of a pseudo-bleach bypass effect in some cases - a Multiply layer, a desat layer, and a Curves layer to restore brightness." CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:26:17.833" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19051" PostId="12244" Text="@jrista aahh OK I guess I got the meaning of &quot;clipped highlights&quot; wrong :p very sorry about that. I'll give your tips a try and report back! Btw, what color combos do you recommend for dual toning?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:27:27.537" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19052" PostId="3858" Text="I have exactly the same issue. It is driving me up the wall. Have you found a fix already?" CreationDate="2010-11-26T12:45:26.007" />
  <row Id="19053" PostId="3858" Text="I have not yet found a fix, or the cause. I've updated LR3 a couple times since, and it still does this. Adobe does not seem to have any answers either. LR2 seems to print fine, so it is just limited to LR3. I've just resorted to printing from Photoshop." CreationDate="2010-11-26T17:39:04.433" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19054" PostId="12237" Score="7" Text="No idea why this got voted as off-topic, sure seems on-topic to me." CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:01:05.993" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="19055" PostId="12245" Score="2" Text="Hands-on is great, but think the try-at-the-store advice gets more repetition than it should. You can't really get to know a camera in a few minutes at the store. There may be things that seem important (either amazing or annoying) in a short time that turn out to be no big issue once you're accustomed to the camera; conversely, important pros and cons may not be readily apparent. So, sure, handling at the store is nice, but don't oversell it. I'd rather borrow, rent, or buy from somewhere (local or online) that will let me use the camera (lightly) for a few weeks and then return if necessary." CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:06:13.543" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19056" PostId="12243" Score="4" Text="If you try to do it yourself, it will surely be one of those cases when you are done putting it back together you have a few screws left over and you swear that you shouldn't." CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:07:58.583" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19057" PostId="12248" Text="Great link, that looks like a huge asset." CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:09:00.630" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19058" PostId="12235" Score="1" Text="FTR, the question on micro-adjusting lenses: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1/what-is-the-best-way-to-micro-adjust-a-lens" CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:14:04.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19059" PostId="12215" Score="1" Text="@John Caven - Its not that I don't agree with you, but when I spend over $1,000 on a new lens, I not only want to see great shots come out of it, but I want to precisely test it before I show up at a paid event with it." CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:21:16.270" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19060" PostId="12245" Score="2" Text="@mattdm: Or you can simply buy something based on the reviews, use it for several years, and then you will *really* know which features you miss in your current choice. And then you can make a more informed choice when you are upgrading the camera. I don't believe anyone can really learn the full capabilities and limitations of their *first* DSLR in a few weeks..." CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:29:27.623" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19061" PostId="12243" Score="1" Text="@dpollitt - at the end of rebuilding every laptop, I always look down and think &quot;well, I hope *those* weren't important&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:42:34.383" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19062" PostId="12243" Score="7" Text="Awesome.  The screws in those lenses are so small anyway, I'm sure they don't serve any real purpose.  " CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:44:14.427" UserId="5247" />
  <row Id="19063" PostId="12225" Text="When they must be somewhat subjective, _individual_ but intended-to-be-comprehensive answers are best. Collaborative editing of answers with no individual ownership doesn't improve them. If it's _not_ subjective, CW is great for list-based answers, but if it _is_ subjective, opinions should stay attached to the people they belong to. Take a look at the list of guidelines here: http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/" CreationDate="2011-05-20T18:49:23.647" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19064" PostId="12209" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean I don't understand the question nor the problem: You take DNG &amp; output BMP#1; then you modify DNG-metadata &amp; output BMP#2; the BMPs differ—isn't that the desired effect? Which metadata did you change? How does your image processor's output differ from PS? Or are you asking for a list of all other possible tags that affect the Raw→composite processing?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T19:11:39.193" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19065" PostId="12252" Text="NB: this camera also lacks a fully-manual mode." CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:03:37.683" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19066" PostId="12252" Text="yup, only shoots in aperture priority mode" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:13:52.493" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="19067" PostId="11026" Text="Out of curiousity, would you say the R800s are any better than the snap labs in case I ever come across a used one?" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:31:41.473" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="19068" PostId="12238" Score="3" Text="Not using the RAW format is not necessarily a mistake, for a beginner, using RAW exclusively  would probably be the mistake as it would cause far more time to be spent in front of a computer fiddling with images digitally rather than going out and shooting more images. Getting to learn how to get it right in the camera plays a very important part in learning photography before delving into the digital darkroom..." CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:42:22.530" UserId="4889" />
  <row Id="19069" PostId="12205" Score="1" Text="Something reading the EXIF should not need to read the entire file, and if it's on the same filesystem a move will not touch the data at all.  I/O shouldn't be an issue at all." CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:49:00.310" UserId="1651" />
  <row Id="19070" PostId="12243" Score="2" Text="One thing you will need that may be hard to come by is a *very* clean workspace. Nowhere in my home or office would do, I can see the occasional dust motes swim by as I type this. You don't want to trap new dust inside while putting the now clean optics back together...." CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:05:41.077" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="19071" PostId="12255" Text="so pretty much adjust the ASA dial to get the same shutter speed... I was somewhat afraid of that, it's a 2 handed operation meaning I'll have to look at the dial and then back to the viewfinder and since I do street photography from time to time I'll most likely miss the moment..." CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:24:44.180" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="19072" PostId="12255" Text="Yip, but its not that time consuming. But if you need the speed, this is not the camera. " CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:29:16.673" UserId="5250" />
  <row Id="19073" PostId="12255" Text="yeah, I guess I'll try to find an AE-1 Program instead.. Upvoted your answer and if nothing else comes up I'll mark it as the solution" CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:31:54.173" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="19074" PostId="12255" Text="shotto robotto! good luck" CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:36:56.887" UserId="5250" />
  <row Id="19075" PostId="12215" Text="@John I appreciate what you say, because it's easy to get too technical, but I have to agree with @dpollitt: I found the hour or so it takes to test a lens and review the results is worthwhile, because from then on whenever I use it I can *visualize* the effects of my choice of aperture and focal length on the picture quality (especially sharpness, contrast, and color).  I know which lens to pick to get the most out of an opportunity and there's much less guessing and much less bracketing needed to get the pictures I envision." CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:44:07.313" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="19076" PostId="12243" Text="Very good point, thanks RBerteig.  " CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:59:57.910" UserId="5247" />
  <row Id="19077" PostId="12244" Text="@rabbid: The level of contrast and tones you choose for split toning are up to you. Generally, you'll want to split on colors that are already largely present in your scene, or on your primary subjects. For example, in the last sample photograph, the two primary tones are brown and gray. As for the contrast...overall, the &quot;scene&quot; has high contrast, however key subjects or key areas have lower contrast (local contrast). As in the first shot, the womans face should have more detail and local contrast, yet it is flatter and lacking in local contrast." CreationDate="2011-05-20T22:29:36.840" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19078" PostId="12247" Score="1" Text="+1 I have done some search before so I know that there are NO lens that would satisfy at any price or weight. That is also true when I forget about having really good tele for wild life. But that is also main point of my question: What should I cut ? That is beyond my experience and no study of reviews can answer that... I have provided rates for what I want to shot and I would like and advice what to cut to get best possible quality. Well to have tele end longer then 200mm is will be useful only for wild life. So I should probably cut that as so huge zoom will probably further degrade... " CreationDate="2011-05-21T00:09:28.483" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19079" PostId="12247" Text="...optics quality. But then what else should I cut? I have seen some good fast action shoots done at 5.6 aperture at 200mm. So may it be that I can shoot fast action with something like [NIkon 18-200mm](http://www.neocamera.com/lens.php?id=42) provided it will not always be perfect (higher ISO required)? And do I need fast lens for portraits shoots? If not and I can shoot some action with 3.5-5.6 than I should probably just cut low light requirement and hope that higher ISO and longer shutter at 3.5 will do... Is it right? Otherwise, I should probably consider cutting the telephoto." CreationDate="2011-05-21T00:22:14.093" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19080" PostId="12247" Score="2" Text="The fact that your top two are landscape and wildlife point to two lenses, at least one for each end. I know weight is important but if you can anticipate the need for wildlife then you know when to bring the big one. That problem never goes away, I travel with 2-3 cameras and 4-7 lenses and I still have to choose which ones to leave behind! The Micro Four-Thirds system is great for keeping weight and size down, I blogged about it a few months ago: http://blog.neocamera.com/?p=1192" CreationDate="2011-05-21T00:26:16.270" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19081" PostId="12246" Text="Some parts of my question (*After extensive search*,  *I'm technically skilled*, *I have some experience with DSLC* and *I understand all the disadvantages of having single lens*) where meant to stress that although I'm upgrading from compact and a beginner in that respect **I really understand** that due to physical limitation it is necessary to use different lens to take good photos in different situation. But it is just a fact that I can have only one lens and because I'm a beginner I don't know which one should I chose. Why I can have only one lens: Next summer I might be traveling..." CreationDate="2011-05-21T00:50:58.277" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19082" PostId="12248" Text="@Rob McCready, could you please add summary of key points here so the valuable info would not disappear when the link stops working?" CreationDate="2011-05-21T00:56:06.307" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19083" PostId="12247" Score="1" Text="ISO compensates for speed but it does not for optical quality or depth-of-field. The truth is you can always manage with what you have but will you be happy with it? Classic portraits are taken a wide apertures to blur the background. Lenses whose widest aperture is F/5.6 are generally soft there and need to be stopped down, sometimes to F/11 which is very dim. Honestly I would certainly rather shoot less often than with less quality." CreationDate="2011-05-21T00:57:42.343" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19084" PostId="12246" Text="Yeah, I got that. But you can be traveling and have more than one lens." CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:02:48.097" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19085" PostId="12246" Text="... *(continued)* for 2 weeks in 6000m high mountains (or a desert or jungle)  having no touch with real civilization. Carrying everything that I need in very heavy bag (no donkeys, no cars, no guides ... ). I still want to take great pictures of what I see but having 3 lenses and camera of total 3 kg is simply no option. And yes, I have read Matt's answer before posting my question. About my choice of cameras: They are pretty near to each other in one particular respect (other then budget) - they all offer best picture quality and performance in for their weight and size... " CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:04:35.510" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19086" PostId="12215" Text="@dpollitt and @whuber - Notice I didn't say how to use it, just that I said to use it. Just my take, real world means more to me, so my interest is in how it performs with real images and that's using it to me. It may be just an hour, but getting the lens into the situations you want to use it for is the real test that matters." CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:07:47.280" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19087" PostId="12246" Text="... *(continued)* GH2 is the lightest but worst photos. A55 is slightly heavier but also slightly better photos. D5100 is at my top limit to the camera size but offers best performance and photo quality. They also share some feature that I set as required (usable video shooting, viewfinder, buid in flash, good and fast AF, good higher ISO performance, good for wide range of photographic situation)." CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:10:02.167" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19088" PostId="12246" Score="1" Text="Pentax DA Limited 15mm + 21mm + 40mm + 70mm = 573g. Fit them all in this: http://photo.net/equipment/pentax/da-limited-lens-case" CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:13:49.490" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19089" PostId="12246" Text="@mattdm: Yes I can travel with more lens but the lightest good lens are some good 400g so having 2 means at least 800g but most likely some 1 kg. I don't want it to be much more that 1 kg *together with the camera*. That is already *a lot of* for something that I cannot eat when I'm hungry or wear when I'm cold but for good photos I'll spare that weight - however I'm no Rambo so I cannot afford more than that :(." CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:16:31.977" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19090" PostId="12246" Text="@mattdm: I'm always one comment behind you. Sorry :)" CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:17:29.247" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19091" PostId="12246" Score="1" Text="The four lenses I listed above are all not just good, but excellent. The heaviest of them is 212g, and that's wider-angle than you strictly say you need. Leave that off and you're down to 361g — lighter than the _one_ lens you're considering. Pair it with the K-5 if you can (660g), and you're still less than 1kg. Or shave another ~ 100g and go with the K-r (which is one sensor model back from the cameras you're looking at but still good). The K-r also takes AA batteries, which may be a plus for travel." CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:22:35.427" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19092" PostId="12246" Text="@mattdm: +1 for you las comment: very light lenses indeed (130g, 70mm, F2.4 ?!). But only for Pentax body :( It might definitely solve the fast action shooting for no additional wight and size at all... But only if I buy Pentax. I did not really like any of them :(" CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:31:31.830" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19093" PostId="12227" Text="Yikes, that sounds rather complicated. Can that be achieved in Lightroom?" CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:35:38.210" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19094" PostId="12246" Text="@mattdm: Still one comment behind you. Yes, I haven't read the reviews but their parameters are excellent - something like I was unsuccessfully looking for (for Sony/Nikon/HG2). I really like the 70mm one. AA batteries would be great plus indeed. I'll study this option and reconsider but the 4 lenses does not cover wild life at least... And I think I have checked K-5 and K-r some time ago but did not like it for some reason (no video K-5 ? Bad image quality in case K-r?). Side question: what aperture is needed for good portrait lens ? " CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:41:03.277" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19095" PostId="12245" Text="+1 One of first thinks that I did (even before reading all the review carefully) was trying in the shop: I tried HG2 and A55 but Nikon one could not be switched on. At least I know how big they are and I learned that Nikon's lens correction is not enough for me. I liked HG2 controls and steady grip of A55 but it did not tell me anything about quality of photos indeed. Anyway **I really like mattdm's comment**, I should not overestimate this short and limited hands on experience." CreationDate="2011-05-21T01:53:25.470" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19097" PostId="12251" Text="Thanks! I'll look up cross processing and beach bypass then. " CreationDate="2011-05-21T02:06:27.403" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19098" PostId="12251" Text="Neither cross-process nor bleach would be responsible for the gray sky in Image 6 would it? The trees and buildings just blend into the sky. How is that possible? My only guess is to turn down Highlights way low, but then the subject's faces would be completely flat like a piece of paper. " CreationDate="2011-05-21T02:16:23.710" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19099" PostId="12247" Text="Yes that might unfortunately be the point where I'll end up: I'll just have to shoot less - I'll just not be able to shoot some situation. So wild life seems to be a most problematic one... Can I find a better solution when I give up wild life ? The other way is to consider something like @mattdm suggested in combination with super zoom: the one from sony that you linked is quite light so I might be able to carry one more small (rather pancake like) wide-aperture lens for portraits and low light." CreationDate="2011-05-21T02:25:59.573" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19100" PostId="11026" Text="Not *better*, just cheaper up-front. They're a bit of a hassle to move around, and you can't really give them any time off -- if you're not printing for any more than a couple of days, you're clogging the heads. The only real advantage is that you can print a bit larger on demand (5x7, 8x10), as with any inkjet printer. It was the third-party bulk (continuous) inking systems that made it a popular low-end pro printer -- HP was using cartridge+head consumable units, while Epson had permanent heads (and Canon, *at the time*, wasn't nearly up to snuff)." CreationDate="2011-05-21T04:25:57.440" UserId="2719" />
  <row Id="19101" PostId="12262" Text="Well if I understand it correctly then what you suggest is not posible: There are no lens 18-200 that has f-stop 2.8. If there was, that would be easy solution to my dilemma. And I would buy it instead of asking here. Anyway, your answer was were useful at least for that extension ring and Gorilla Pod. I might not use Gorilla Pod for serious traveling (it is quite heavy - few grams more and I can have fast prime lenses for that) but it is useful to know about this option. So +1." CreationDate="2011-05-21T05:12:09.507" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19102" PostId="12261" Text="@Rajat thanks for your answer! Would you be willing to show your original picture and the results after you apply the effect as an example? If you increase the exposure how do you counter overexposure and washed out colors? Much appreciated. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-21T05:43:58.480" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19103" PostId="12264" Text="If you supply a photo I'd be willing to take a shot and try to get that effect in Lightroom. I also have a similar question [here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12226/what-kind-of-color-treatment-is-applied-to-these-photos), though it is for a different effect. Maybe we can help each other out :) Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-21T07:20:32.130" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19104" PostId="2697" Text="The deviant art link did not work. Would anyone be willing to describe how to replicate #3 in Lightroom? Thanks" CreationDate="2011-05-21T07:22:39.307" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19105" PostId="12245" Text="No, but you should nevertheless do it. Renting can be expensive, you may not know anyone who owns a DSLR, and the chances of a store letting you return any used camera is slim IMO." CreationDate="2011-05-21T07:54:22.130" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19106" PostId="12227" Text="No idea, never used Lightroom I'm afraid. It's 2 minutes work in Photoshop - even Elements could do it actually. Duplicate the base layer, set it to Multiply, make a Hue/Saturation Layer set to 0 saturation and about 40% opacity, then bring the brightness back up with a Levels or Curves layer." CreationDate="2011-05-21T07:58:11.160" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19107" PostId="12253" Score="1" Text="I've bumped to [Sony NEX-VG10](http://www.dpreview.com/news/1007/10071401sonynexvg10e.asp) which specifications sounds like it would produce decent still images (though no RAW), but I've had hard time to find still image examples — [great video examples](http://vimeo.com/groups/nexvg10/videos/sort:likes) though." CreationDate="2011-05-21T10:14:56.790" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19108" PostId="12086" Text="-1 because your answer doesn't make any sense" CreationDate="2011-05-21T10:50:42.880" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19109" PostId="12272" Text="The Wikipedia entry you pointed to suggests both that it is OK to photograph in public indoors in the UK, but the local security guard had a *reasonable suspicion that you are a terrorist*. How nice! (Well if you spent half an hour photographing just the security cameras, it could be seen a bit suspicious.) @[Rowland links](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12195/what-legal-restrictions-to-photography-are-there-in-european-countries/12198#12198) to some good info relevant for the UK." CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:05:28.223" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19110" PostId="3361" Text="@Alan — yeah, there's no reason for this to be CW. " CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:11:57.227" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19111" PostId="7412" Text="@Reid: can you clarify what's unique here? The answers (including yours!) suggest that it is a duplicate. " CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:14:35.557" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19112" PostId="12268" Text="Thank you for your answer, it looks like a considerable opinion even thought it did not give me new information or suggested new solution. Contrast AF in GH2 is not super fast or super precise but I have tied it in the shop as much as I could and it compares really *very well* to Sony's and Nicon's phase shift AF. In the fact I'm much more concerned about image quality: especially skin colors it and poor JPEG straight from camera (I cannot see myself shooting RAW really). If there wasn't these GH2 would be the clear winner because of portability." CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:17:17.893" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19113" PostId="12260" Text="By &quot;has some inpact in the shutter&quot;, do you mean that the mirror comes back down, or something else? What are you worried about? (Noise, time, wear, or other?)" CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:19:14.773" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19114" PostId="12272" Score="1" Text="@koiyu: Freedom of panorama deals only with copyright, so it does not have much to do with actual on-site nagging that results from anti-terrorism laws and reasonable suspicion. While there is freedom of panorama both in UK and the Czech Republic, Central Europe in much less afraid of terrorists with 70-200s than the UK." CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:22:39.590" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="19115" PostId="12268" Text="Another great think with GH2 is that it removes practically all chromatic aberration and distortion in the camera right before it even reach you eye, so even with 14-150 superzoom quality is at both ends is very comparable to lens with much less zoom. But that is still not quite going to make for murky photos and bad looking portraits... 24-70 are not suitable for me if they are heavy, the other problem here is that for Landscape I really need 28mm equivalent. The last think you suggested might actually be the solution - superzoom for most cases and very fast small prime lenses for bad light." CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:30:59.463" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19116" PostId="12246" Text="The Limited lenses are definitely the reason to buy into Pentax, but the bodies are actually really nice too. I'm going to switch out of strictly-neutral voice and advocate slightly — I love my K-7, and the K-5 is stellar. It does have a video mode, although I don't think it's the best on the market. The K-r got middling reviews, but that's largely because the earlier K-x got extremely high praise, and then the K-r is only incrementally better, while competitors like the Nikon D5100 made big leaps. It's still really good, though, and sounds like it might fit your needs well." CreationDate="2011-05-21T13:01:15.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19117" PostId="12246" Score="1" Text="On the side question (which is really broad enough to be its _own_ question — http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11641/ hits some of it), it really depends on your lighting. Many portraits are taken quite stopped down to ensure sharpness. If you shoot at f/1.4, you risk having the ears and tip of the nose both be blurry. I usually shoot portraits either wide open with the DA 40mm f/2.8, or at f/5.6 if I have a nice background and artificial lighting." CreationDate="2011-05-21T13:04:48.413" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19118" PostId="12271" Score="6" Text="I imagine some cheaper cameras occasionally leave off options like this, but I'm not sure searching for examples is really practically useful. Wouldn't it be better to just double-check that any camera you're actually interested in has the ability to be silent?" CreationDate="2011-05-21T13:13:25.900" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19119" PostId="12272" Score="2" Text="Ought to fix Wikipedia then, as the mention of anti-terror laws in the context of Panoramafreiheit is seemingly confusing. On another note, whoa, [Wikimedia Commons](http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Commons:Freedom_of_panorama) has a fairly thorough explanation by country on the subject." CreationDate="2011-05-21T13:40:53.787" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19120" PostId="12205" Text="Hmm, indeed, forgot I could delegate moving to the native tools." CreationDate="2011-05-21T14:58:26.643" UserId="4613" />
  <row Id="19121" PostId="12249" Text="Looks exactly like what I need, though what does the `'-filename&lt;DateTimeOriginal'` flag do? It seems `-d` is supplying all the information." CreationDate="2011-05-21T15:00:32.507" UserId="4613" />
  <row Id="19122" PostId="12274" Text="I did not use noise reduction as I was trying to take a series of photos, one after the other, so I could stack them in Photoshop to get a nice startrails photo. Not sure how to do in-camera noise reduction when trying to capture startrails." CreationDate="2011-05-21T16:07:30.167" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="19123" PostId="12274" Score="2" Text="Then you'll need to do dark frames and stack them in post.  When you're done taking your pictures and before you pack up, put your lens cap on and take a series of pictures the same length and number of that are dark.  These will JUST have the noise, and then stack them up and you can make a frame to subtract all the noise out.  There's also specialized software for alot of this stuff like DeepStackStacker - but I'm not sure how it will play with star trails.  Check  http://www.takegreatpictures.com/photo-tips/digital-photography/dark-frame-subtraction-using-adobe-photoshop-br-by-chris-limone" CreationDate="2011-05-21T16:13:30.397" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19124" PostId="12274" Text="Awesome, thanks so much for the help. Exactly what I needed." CreationDate="2011-05-21T16:24:56.143" UserId="4199" />
  <row Id="19125" PostId="12257" Text="Nice answer. I do happen to have shutter control and some decent still frame options on this camera which gets around 18mp. How large are the sensors on a typical quality digital photo camera? These are 1/2 inches." CreationDate="2011-05-21T16:41:23.853" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="19126" PostId="12254" Text="I had assumed that I would need a tripod for the same reason I try to use one during photo shoots when possible, chance of line bleed from unsteadiness. Does the reason go deeper than that on video cameras or are you saying &quot;slighter&quot; unsteadiness is more exagerated on video cameras?" CreationDate="2011-05-21T16:49:03.427" UserId="4775" />
  <row Id="19127" PostId="12260" Text="@mattdm The increment in shutter actuations. Al tough entering and leaving LV doesn't increment it (the file number doesn't goes up) it has some impact on the system and probably has the same effect as taking a photo." CreationDate="2011-05-21T17:27:22.893" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19128" PostId="12267" Score="1" Text="On my 550D, returning from the menu is instant." CreationDate="2011-05-21T17:29:09.790" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19129" PostId="12267" Score="1" Text="Even if you could go into the menu while recording, I can't imagine it would effect the sensor at all *since its still recording*." CreationDate="2011-05-21T17:37:28.780" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19130" PostId="12271" Score="2" Text="Additionally, this is a *very* short term useful answer." CreationDate="2011-05-21T18:09:47.160" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19131" PostId="12250" Text="From this it seems that it succeeding is sheer luck! When I do my panoramas I wait that in each shot there is no motion in the areas of overlap." CreationDate="2011-05-21T19:06:56.230" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19132" PostId="12274" Text="The Startrails software (for Windows) is designed for this purpose, and supports dark frames. http://www.startrails.de/html/software.html" CreationDate="2011-05-21T19:58:02.780" UserId="2138" />
  <row Id="19133" PostId="12246" Text="Ok I'm going to read K-r (K-5 is definitely too heavy and bulky for me) review tomorrow or on Monday, compare features etc. and use my own judgement rather then depend on reviewers or ratings. I'll also have to check Pentax lenses. I'll comment again when I will know more about it." CreationDate="2011-05-21T20:59:59.947" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19134" PostId="12249" Text="@Dykam The main purpose of `exiftool` is to read and modify image metadata. Syntax `-DSTTAG&lt;SRCTAG` tells it to copy  metadata from `SRCTAG` to `DSTTAG`. `-filename` acts as a tag to change (in effect, renaming a file), `DateTimeOriginal` acts as a source tag (actual metadata); `-d` specifies date format (and allows for some extensions, like `%%f`, `%%e`). You can also use `CreateDate`, `FileModifyDate` and `ModifyDate` too." CreationDate="2011-05-21T21:06:51.723" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="19135" PostId="12225" Text="I suppose the question could be edited to make it less about my specific situation, but I don't think it is very subjective.  It meets all the guidelines with the possible exception of #5." CreationDate="2011-05-21T21:21:27.547" UserId="3444" />
  <row Id="19136" PostId="12274" Text="An illustration of thermal noise appears at http://theory.uchicago.edu/~ejm/pix/20d/tests/noise/#thermalnoise .  I don't think dark frame subtraction will help at all: these are random events, not consistent errors in specific pixels.  But even extremely mild noise reduction algorithms ought to remove them." CreationDate="2011-05-21T21:46:30.023" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="19137" PostId="12257" Text="DSLR cameras will have a sensor that is between between 0.87 and 1.42 inches in width (22mm to 36mm). For comparison, the iPhone 3GS had a 1/4&quot; sensor. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_sensor_format for more camera sensor size information." CreationDate="2011-05-21T23:44:50.390" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="19138" PostId="12276" Text="I would say it is a shame and great pity... Sony should include such feature as soon as possible. Panasonic and Olympus are taking advantage of it already: lenses are practically  aberration free even when superzoom like those 14-140 F4-5.6 Panasonic. And designers can improve other optical qualities of lenses too when they don't have to worry about higher aberrations too much (I bet this is also the case of 14-140 as other optical qualities are very good)." CreationDate="2011-05-22T00:03:10.123" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19139" PostId="12276" Text="Guess Sony is just starting with SLDs which is why it works for Micro Four-Third cameras. As long as the previews (EVF and LCD) shows the view corrected for geometric distortion than it becomes usable. I had an SLR which did this as an option and I had to turn it off because on some lenses it changed the framing noticeable and would cut off things that were intentionally in the image. It also has to happen without slowing the camera, another of my camera potentially corrects for chromatic aberrations but it takes 2 extra seconds per shot." CreationDate="2011-05-22T01:36:50.673" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19140" PostId="12276" Text="Now that I think about it more, chromatic aberrations and vignetting could be removed without any significant impact on image quality but geometric distortion correction would dramatically damage pixel-level sharpness." CreationDate="2011-05-22T01:39:16.133" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19141" PostId="12257" Text="I would mention that when shooting on a hybrid-DSLR (such as the Canon 550D, 7D, 5D etc.) Then using the shutter-release button whilst recording will save a higher-resolution image to the SD card. However this is at the expense of a second or so of footage capture and it will not be at the 'normal' full resolution of the camera." CreationDate="2011-05-22T01:58:26.263" UserId="3375" />
  <row Id="19143" PostId="12276" Score="1" Text="I don't mind if a camera applies such correction when it's producing JPEGs, but I would *never* buy one that did this to RAWs (and I'd put up with in on JPEGs primarily because I never use them). This is something I'd much rather handle after the fact (assuming I do it at all)." CreationDate="2011-05-22T04:10:46.577" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19144" PostId="12269" Text="Thanks, I'll give this a shot and let you know how it went." CreationDate="2011-05-22T08:18:52.610" UserId="5142" />
  <row Id="19145" PostId="12264" Text="Yes, it's a good starting point for desaturation. You can experiment with warming filters, tints, all sorts. You can also merge the layers into one, hide the effects layers, then mask the merged layer and paint away the desaturation to reveal stronger colors in certain areas." CreationDate="2011-05-22T08:47:59.100" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19146" PostId="12269" Text="@ElendilTheTall, thanks for the info. I was able to produce a decent faxcimilie of the effect on a simple test photo. I can look into this for more specific (&amp; targeted) works in the future :)" CreationDate="2011-05-22T08:51:06.937" UserId="5142" />
  <row Id="19147" PostId="12274" Text="This isn't noise, it's hot pixels. Every camera has them, to some degree. This one just seems a bit bad. - Anyways, how are you processing the images? I know most adobe stuff does automatic hot-pixel removal. Did you change your post-process-process?" CreationDate="2011-05-22T12:12:47.350" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="19148" PostId="12290" Text="Thanks, I was starting to suspect that might be the case. Pity that Panasonic's manuals are so basic--couldn't find anything much about RAW images there. On the plus side, it led me to find this site! Much to learn here :)" CreationDate="2011-05-22T13:05:33.033" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19150" PostId="12279" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7477/do-any-other-manufacturers-other-than-canon-use-the-terms-av-and-tv, and my answer there." CreationDate="2011-05-22T14:20:23.653" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19151" PostId="12279" Text="There's some argument in the comments/answers to the other question over whether the `V` is _value_ or _variable_." CreationDate="2011-05-22T14:51:19.957" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19152" PostId="12279" Score="1" Text="Also, as a geek, I am tempted to answer the question in the title with &quot;1:1, of course!&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-22T14:53:02.593" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19153" PostId="12276" Text="@Jerry - That is an interesting comment. Would you expect the EVF/LCD do show something different for RAW and JPEG mode? What about RAW+JPEG? You need to see the *right* version to be able to frame correctly." CreationDate="2011-05-22T15:15:02.163" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19154" PostId="3689" Text="@Andres added in a now-deleted answer that there is third-party software that can be used with this GPS instead of what comes with it...." CreationDate="2011-05-22T17:48:53.427" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19155" PostId="12279" Text="@mattdm - &quot;1:1&quot; would be better, but the system won't let you submit that short answer..." CreationDate="2011-05-22T18:01:34.120" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19156" PostId="12296" Text="Checked my 24-105 and it's focusing properly. Checked my 85mm prime and it appears to be correct as well. Maybe my model is standing more still today than a couple of weeks ago." CreationDate="2011-05-22T18:36:15.393" UserId="5270" />
  <row Id="19157" PostId="12296" Text="Make sure you aren't moving either :)&#xA;http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7986/should-auto-focus-need-adjusting/8009#8009" CreationDate="2011-05-22T19:35:02.077" UserId="3156" />
  <row Id="19158" PostId="12254" Text="If you zoom in to 500mm on a film camera, DSLR, or video camera to take video OR stills, you are going to want a tripod to get good results.  The farther you zoom in the more the effects of hand shaking or any subtle movement will be shown." CreationDate="2011-05-22T20:38:15.460" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19160" PostId="12222" Text="Sorry. I didn't realise I had enough reputation points to do that." CreationDate="2011-05-22T21:30:01.670" UserId="5176" />
  <row Id="19161" PostId="12299" Text="Oh yes, I probably did overdo it in the example, but it was a matter of seeing the boundaries of what I could produce. The sample photo really wasn't ideal for this effect imho, but I like the result you posted. +1 for sure." CreationDate="2011-05-22T22:13:46.667" UserId="5142" />
  <row Id="19162" PostId="12296" Text="Great point, AngerClown. After I posted this, I set up lights and shot a couple of dozen images of a model (well, actually I badgered my wife to model). I do focus/recompose and the 85mm f/1.2 is a tricky lens to use. Of the test images, none were out of focus. Perhaps I'm just more aware of it now so I'm on guard. This model was very well behaved, but typically, models are all over the place on set. I can handle it with a 24-70 or 24-105 but I was losing perfect focus on about 5% more shots than normal, which prompted the original post." CreationDate="2011-05-23T00:15:03.407" UserId="5270" />
  <row Id="19163" PostId="2052" Text="See: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3770/what-factors-should-i-take-into-account-when-deciding-whether-to-buy-now-or-wait" CreationDate="2011-05-23T00:54:00.330" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19164" PostId="12294" Score="2" Text="Would you be willing to post some examples of acceptable and non-acceptable images? I'm an amateur, and I'm curious as to what exactly counts as &quot;non-acceptable&quot; images. In my mind I'm thinking &quot;is it really that much difference between the nose and the eyes? Would people even notice when printed in a magazine or blown-up on a billboard?&quot; Thanks" CreationDate="2011-05-23T01:38:51.243" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19165" PostId="12296" Score="1" Text="If you are trying to focus/recompose at f1.2 you're probably running into a depth of field issue. You're only going to have a razor thin focus plane and recomposing is only going to stay focused on what you actually want by luck." CreationDate="2011-05-23T03:50:55.933" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="19166" PostId="12300" Text="i guess that makes some sense, could there be any other thing?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T03:54:00.393" UserId="1209" />
  <row Id="19167" PostId="12272" Text="@che thanks for your explanation of the FOP - never heard about this term, very helpful. And @koiyu - thank you for your link to the list of legal restrictions in different countries (that's what I wanted)." CreationDate="2011-05-23T05:45:26.973" UserId="2272" />
  <row Id="19168" PostId="12293" Text="Ah, so there would be metadata on the RAW file specifying that the Monochrome filter was selected, and in theory, that could allow another application down the track to re-apply that filter. That makes more sense." CreationDate="2011-05-23T06:45:11.077" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19169" PostId="12188" Text="not sure, Jam. NatGeo has a large pool of professionals working for them on contract basis as well as full time. They wouldn't laugh in your face if as a rookie amateur wanting to get published you send them something, but they'd probably laugh as they send you an automated rejection notice." CreationDate="2011-05-23T06:50:14.507" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19170" PostId="12272" Text="UK has gotten extremely paranoid about street photography in the last several years, and more than a few people have spent time on police stations and had their cameras confiscated and either wiped or damages/destroyed before being eventually released." CreationDate="2011-05-23T07:08:54.263" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19171" PostId="12306" Text="Very informative. It makes me wonder, though, where did you find the first diagram, with the Photo.SE screenshot reflected?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T07:21:52.117" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19172" PostId="12306" Text="I didn't find a decent manufacturer's cutaway showing the simple reflective system, despite it being used on many Nikons and [Canons](http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/EOS-1n/Viewfinder/index.htm) (even &quot;higher-spec&quot; models like the Canon 5D MkII), so created a rough one." CreationDate="2011-05-23T08:11:12.343" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="19173" PostId="12205" Text="Moving files around should be a fairly cheap operation (if source/target reside on the same disk, it's just moving a pointer somewhere). Otherwise, Python (and most other languages) provides tread-safe queues and thread-pools to easily deal with that sort of thing." CreationDate="2011-05-23T08:32:04.390" UserId="187" />
  <row Id="19174" PostId="10744" Text="Pricing and availability [have been announced](http://dpreview.com/news/1105/11052010sigmasd1.asp)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T08:33:53.033" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19175" PostId="12209" Text="@koiyu: Qns is &quot;Which all metadata information from the DNG file or from its own database, does Adobe-PS use to perform colour balancing/colour correction.@ " CreationDate="2011-05-23T08:39:44.523" UserId="2438" />
  <row Id="19176" PostId="12308" Text="Can you post some examples?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T08:45:08.533" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19177" PostId="12309" Score="11" Text="So that we have a convenient place to put things like paper clips, small screws, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-23T09:08:13.347" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19178" PostId="12309" Score="1" Text="They are perfect for coin storage. The top canister cap also works perfectly as a spare cap for Pentax DA 40 mm f/2.8 Limited." CreationDate="2011-05-23T09:20:38.290" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="19179" PostId="12312" Text="I ended up buying a Garmin Dakota 20 and its awesome. I in fact use the Save Track feature and convert the newer format GPX file as needed for my geo-tagging software." CreationDate="2011-05-23T10:24:54.753" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="19180" PostId="12310" Score="3" Text="yup, helped when I got caught in a dust storm some 25 years ago. Lens destroyed, film was fine (camera somehow survived)." CreationDate="2011-05-23T11:24:49.453" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19181" PostId="12309" Score="3" Text="@Evan and @jextee - Even better as salt and pepper holders for camping. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T12:43:36.653" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19182" PostId="12313" Score="4" Text="I wouldn't consider freelensing childish or the &quot;non-proper way&quot; to do photography." CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:34:18.280" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19183" PostId="12308" Text="For some reason I doubt that freelensing would cause any additional grain.  If you allow your camera to boost its ISO because you are in an Auto ISO mode, then that is possible.  But simply moving the lens away from the body will not introduce added noise I wouldn't think.  You absolutely will get light leaks!  Lensbaby might be more what you are looking for." CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:36:14.860" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19184" PostId="12309" Score="1" Text="What is the point of film when we have memory cards?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:37:39.367" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19185" PostId="12306" Text="Well, it's definitely professionally looks (except for the perspective distortion of the image in the eyepiece...). What did you use to create it?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:58:07.800" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19186" PostId="12193" Text="Perhaps a dumb question, but what are you taking a picture of?  It's difficult to take a picture of a black cat -- I was able to use auto-focus sometimes, but had to resort to manual focus at others.  As other say, the amount of light you're gathering matters too, and these factors can combine together.  Separately, have you considered taking your camera &amp; lens into a brick &amp; mortar camera store and asking one of their people to just take a picture or three and see what they think?  They'll probably be willing to do that for you." CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:03:44.417" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="19188" PostId="12308" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9580/what-is-a-good-freelensing-lens-i-could-use-on-my-nikon-dx" CreationDate="2011-05-23T14:47:06.423" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19189" PostId="12256" Text="See http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/725/cinematography-should-we-make-this-on-topic" CreationDate="2011-05-23T15:01:44.040" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19192" PostId="12313" Score="3" Text="@Mattia If you rewrite to remove the unnecessary dig at the OP you'll get an upvote from me... Who are you to say that this is a technique that is 'childish,' only worth 5 minutes of a photographers time, or *improper* somehow? Pretty judgmental..." CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:10:07.713" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19193" PostId="12313" Text="@dpollitt - In some way I would, as it's about using a camera in a way it wasn't designed to be used, risking to damage your equipment, having very little to no control on the technical side (e.g. focus, exposure, depth of field). Sure, it's fun, it can enhance creativity, and most people can't afford (or don't want) to buy a tilt-shift camera/SLR lens at any moment. Also ok, there's no &quot;not-proper way&quot; in photography. But, as in every art form, expression is hardly indered by a sensible approach to technique. I mean, if you have just one lens, better learn to use it at its best as it is." CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:27:42.743" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19194" PostId="12313" Text="@Jay Lance Photography - I didn't mean being aggressive and criticizing anyone/anything. See my reply to dpollitt for my reasons, I'll consider changing my answer." CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:31:58.610" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19195" PostId="12233" Text="Added a bounty as Matt's answer is great, but would be interested if there are any other approaches to this." CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:35:20.343" UserId="2127" />
  <row Id="19196" PostId="12313" Text="re-reading my answer it sounds harsher than it was meant to be. I'll update it later, still my advice is against freelensing as a proper photographic technique. Oh God, I said &quot;proper&quot;! IMHO, when it's about technique, &quot;proper&quot; is a proper word." CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:37:16.553" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19197" PostId="12307" Text="This is definitely the right way for me to go. I need to find a happy feather level so that the transition isn't so clear, but I seem to be working in the right direction now. Thanks mate, this is exactly what I was looking for!" CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:45:12.677" UserId="5281" />
  <row Id="19198" PostId="12293" Text="@Endareth — exactly. If camera does include that metadata (I'm not sure the DMC-G10 does), and the other application can read it, the filter could be replicated. In the case of something simple like monochrome, probably exactly. More complicated filters might be done differently from program to program — or not at all." CreationDate="2011-05-23T16:47:25.667" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19199" PostId="12307" Text="No problem. Feathering in GIMP seems to be 'weaker' than Photoshop, which I'm more used to, so you may well need to increase it to ease the transition a little more. Also be aware that you can paint into the layer mask with white and black to fine tune the area it covers." CreationDate="2011-05-23T17:00:04.170" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19200" PostId="12321" Score="1" Text="Nikon-Canon adaptors have no glass so there shouldn't be any image degradation." CreationDate="2011-05-23T17:16:56.010" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19201" PostId="12321" Text="Are there any compatibility issues to be aware of with that camera body (or other modern Nikon dSLRs) and older lenses?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T17:17:18.097" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19202" PostId="12321" Score="1" Text="+ 1 this is perfectly reasonable. But I don't see how a lens-body adapter could cause image degradation. " CreationDate="2011-05-23T17:18:35.440" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19203" PostId="12313" Text="Thanks for your answer. I indeed have to hold the aperture lever open by some means. I don't agree that this is &quot;childish&quot; or &quot;improper&quot; though. That's basically saying tilt-shifting is childish and improper, which is the same as saying writing left-handed is the wrong way. I think tilt-shifting is a valid composition technique. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T17:24:14.583" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19204" PostId="12280" Score="1" Text="Okay everyone. It's a fine answer, but I think we can stop voting it up now. A simple one-liner and a pointer to Wikipedia shouldn't be getting the &quot;Good Answer&quot; badge." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:06:45.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19205" PostId="12280" Text="Not that I don't appreciate your quick helpfulness, @Vikas. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:08:42.613" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19206" PostId="12226" Text="Linking to images copied to imgur.com doesn't really solve the copyright/licensing issue. It'd be better to link to the original source on Sean Flanigan's web site. (http://seanflanigan.net/)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:11:02.660" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19207" PostId="3689" Text="Yes, I highly recommend [GeoSetter](http://www.geosetter.de/en/). It's way better than Gisteq software and has support for RAW files." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:12:19.540" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19208" PostId="3887" Text="@Abhinav — FWIW, that EOSxx question is also problematic and in fact no longer with us." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:13:23.750" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19209" PostId="12276" Text="Yes, I'd expect it to show the modified version for JPEG, but the original for raw. At least as most people use it, raw+JPEG is basically raw with a JPEG preview, so I don't think I'd apply the processing to either. Alternatively, just include menu entries to turn them on and off as the user sees fit." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:15:24.060" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19210" PostId="12324" Score="2" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1366/how-to-take-a-good-landscape-picture-against-the-sun for suggestions on how to deal with the problem in-camera rather than in post." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:17:50.177" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19211" PostId="12324" Score="1" Text="And a more technical question and answers: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/919/graduated-nd-filters-vs-hdr-processing" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:18:06.557" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19212" PostId="12324" Text="thanks,very nice. I'll take a look for future situations. but now i'm need help for a picture that I already taken;)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:23:34.050" UserId="5288" />
  <row Id="19213" PostId="12324" Text="@Kreker — yep. That's why I didn't mark this as a duplicate." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:26:58.393" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19214" PostId="12321" Text="@mattdm the Nikon D7000 has an Ai-tab, so it will meter and set exposure in A and M mode with nearly all Nikon lenses since around 1975." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:30:38.340" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="19215" PostId="12321" Text="Whoops, not sure why I was thinking there was glass involved since it's just a mount adapter.  I've removed that sentence." CreationDate="2011-05-23T18:34:21.660" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="19216" PostId="12234" Text="The camera settings were 1/800s f/8.0 ISO200 22mm" CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:30:28.000" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19217" PostId="12234" Text="Good point about the overlap — there's something that appears more dramatic that way, as if there's interaction between the two exposures." CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:42:56.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19218" PostId="12119" Text="Just for reference, I have removed several comments here that were not useful in answering this question." CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:50:32.880" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="19219" PostId="12294" Text="Sure. Here's a Dropbox gallery: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2316249/1/Stack?h=b2c17b. The left eye image is sharp. The right eye one, focus is on the hair. Yes, it's that much difference, especially when you consider that the pattern of the iris is a big part of what makes eyes so interesting." CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:55:10.990" UserId="5270" />
  <row Id="19220" PostId="11217" Text="@Mattia Gobbi: It's fine if you don't like my answer, but please give a counter-example as to why you disagree with it. Why do you prefer the D90? For me, I like the D5100 because its sensor performs much better in low-light conditions, and the swivel screen combined with the live view feature makes it easier to take photos from tough angles and cramped spaces. Those are the features that I specially like, but since I didn't know what user4856 was looking for in a camera, I listed some other specs that he may be interested in." CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:55:33.423" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="19221" PostId="12321" Text="Would any sort of adapter not cause a small amount of lost light?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:59:38.537" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19222" PostId="12234" Score="1" Text="Thanks for the additions - the PP stuff is awesome!" CreationDate="2011-05-23T20:19:38.963" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19223" PostId="12316" Score="1" Text="Are you sure that the second D90 doesn't make the sound, are you positive its not just much softer than yours?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T20:38:32.467" UserId="3206" />
  <row Id="19224" PostId="12326" Score="1" Text="When combining with a sky from another photo, make sure that sun is shining from the same direction." CreationDate="2011-05-23T20:43:54.860" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19225" PostId="10742" Text="Some technical shortcomings of the previous generation of the Sigma Foveon sensor: http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-news-rumors/106349-foveon-x3-sensor-4.html#post1479064" CreationDate="2011-05-23T20:59:21.910" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="19226" PostId="12316" Text="I am pretty sure about this, if there is a sound on the second one, it must be very much more silent." CreationDate="2011-05-23T21:08:33.927" UserId="1297" />
  <row Id="19227" PostId="11861" Text="Not sure why someone voted this down. Seems like a fine suggestion to me. " CreationDate="2011-05-23T21:53:59.437" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19228" PostId="12334" Text="So... tripods are evil, books are ok?" CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:02:26.777" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19229" PostId="12334" Score="8" Text="Power-tripping security guards seems to be the (almost) universal cause." CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:04:13.160" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="19230" PostId="12309" Text="@dpollitt Memory cards are hard to fit into pre-2000 cameras." CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:09:52.443" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19231" PostId="12311" Text="It should be noted that this doesn't directly diffuse your flash -- it sprays it in more directions so it's more likely to bounce off ceilings and walls." CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:11:03.003" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19232" PostId="12316" Text="Custom menu e4 &quot;sensor cleaning volume&quot; ?  :) jk" CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:35:21.197" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="19233" PostId="12309" Text="Think of film as a really old-school memory card... that can only be used once. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:35:54.320" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19234" PostId="12334" Score="9" Text="If tripods are banned you can always use a quadropod: http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/camera-support-systems/quadropod/" CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:41:24.670" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19235" PostId="12259" Text="+1 for taking pictures. I generally take a *lot* of pictures when I'm disassembling something... Both for the 'put the teardown on my blog' value, but it can be *extremely* handy to have reference material to look back on when you're putting it all back together..." CreationDate="2011-05-23T22:42:51.857" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19236" PostId="12336" Score="1" Text="Same answer as me, but earlier, so I guess I should vote up. ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:06:49.900" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19237" PostId="12329" Score="3" Text="+1 &quot;If all else fails, convert the image to B/W.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:21:48.097" UserId="679" />
  <row Id="19238" PostId="12256" Text="I apologize for not seeing this sooner, however based on the ongoing discussions our community is having at the meta topic @mattdm linked, I would have considered this question to fall mostly on-topic. I think we should finish our discussion on the matter, and if this question still sits in or largely in the &quot;on-topic&quot; pool, it should probably be reopened...at least until the video-se site is in beta. " CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:42:27.840" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19239" PostId="12338" Text="I hate to say it, but this question and the single answer provided exemplify the kind of discussions we wish to avoid. It boils down to a debate, and it beggs for poor quality answers like the one provided. I'm closing this as off-topic. If you do need hardware comparisons, there are much better sites with rich information, like DPReview.com." CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:49:02.843" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19240" PostId="12285" Text="I think that the lens multi-coating probably plays a fairly significant role as well. While the lighting setup would indeed affect the light reflected by the lens, the middle one has a different lens than the other two, and its multi-coating is probably different. I think the final effect is a composite of both lighting and lens multi-coating." CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:53:09.613" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19241" PostId="12336" Text="Was about to say pretty much the same, this explains things pretty well really! Gorillapod-type systems can be ok if you've got a light enough camera, and monopod for a faster option." CreationDate="2011-05-23T23:58:38.987" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19242" PostId="12338" Score="3" Text="I'd say this is less an argumentative issue and more a *severe lack* of searching Google." CreationDate="2011-05-24T00:12:26.343" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="19243" PostId="10" Score="1" Text="After my Gorillapod dropped my camera twice (luckily onto soft surfaces), I'm very hesitant to recommend them." CreationDate="2011-05-24T00:24:36.443" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19244" PostId="12335" Score="1" Text="People with bananas may be terrorists too..." CreationDate="2011-05-24T00:24:52.847" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19245" PostId="12285" Text="@jrista: The multi-coating can certainly show such effect, but not much at that angle. If it was, it would have a big effect on the light that falls into the lens also." CreationDate="2011-05-24T00:30:50.160" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="19246" PostId="12303" Text="In this case, my contract does not include everything I do. I made sure of that before starting with the company. My main motivation behind taking any fee is that it might cause people above me to consider the photos valuable (it's human nature to equate free with valueless). Also, time given to photography takes away from time on development, so I'm a bit concerned that I could do extra work, have it be taken for granted, *and* get in trouble for not keeping up with development work." CreationDate="2011-05-24T00:59:13.160" UserId="4269" />
  <row Id="19247" PostId="12346" Text="Thanks for the link, I've not used a monopod before, so this was definitely worth reading!" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:09:48.747" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19248" PostId="12294" Text="@Steve Ross. Thanks for the example!" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:13:01.277" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19249" PostId="12342" Score="2" Text="If you know you're not supposed to, and you do it anyway - this is a good way to make it more difficult for &quot;the rest of us&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:31:33.473" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19250" PostId="12300" Text="If it works fine in bright light but has a problem in low light, then I don't think there's anything wrong with your lens.  I think the rule of thumb is that AF works well up to f/4.5 or so, beyond that it's going to struggle in low light." CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:56:42.630" UserId="4191" />
  <row Id="19251" PostId="12346" Score="2" Text="+1 for defense!" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:58:35.393" UserId="4989" />
  <row Id="19252" PostId="12345" Text="I like the Manfrotto tripods, I'll have to see if I can track down a store that actually stocks their monopods. A tilt head would be good, but would also add some extra weight... have to see one in action I think." CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:02:08.140" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19253" PostId="12342" Score="2" Text="If there's nothing indicating that you're not supposed to, how are you supposed to know? 'Tis easier to beg forgiveness than to ask permission! :)&#xA;But I do take your point. I wouldn't do this in a gallery for example." CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:05:19.780" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19254" PostId="11851" Text="@user5111 - Please consider selecting this answer as the &quot;accepted answer&quot; by clicking the check box to the left of this answer if you find it to be so." CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:15:28.610" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19255" PostId="12280" Score="1" Text="@mattdm +1 just for you buddy" CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:20:41.790" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19256" PostId="12320" Text="Thanks - it looks like you repositioned the chair between shots, right?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:25:10.933" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19257" PostId="12348" Score="4" Text="@Miky Dinescu - welcome to the site, but we're really about photography - not video conversion." CreationDate="2011-05-24T02:28:19.283" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19258" PostId="12320" Text="There was a row of chairs all built to different scale — that's what gave me the idea. " CreationDate="2011-05-24T03:07:08.060" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19259" PostId="12338" Score="2" Text="It is genuine question on my part. And I don't think it to be off topic or leading to any arguments. When I compared the specs D7000 appeared to have more features than D300S, So the question is what is that this camera has which the less expensive one does not. Really felt bad by the response for the first question I posted, I better use Quora as my question answer forum than this one. Thank you.  " CreationDate="2011-05-24T03:09:43.457" UserId="5295" />
  <row Id="19260" PostId="12280" Score="1" Text="@rfusca: funny. But I'm serious that it's detrimental to the site to over-upvote trivial answers, because it causes the really great answers to be relatively undervalued as they get buried under quick things like this." CreationDate="2011-05-24T03:15:55.590" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19261" PostId="12280" Text="Additionally, while I believe the answer to be correct, the linked source is actually quite poor, as it's merely an unsourced wikipedia article with nothing to back it. See http://dougkerr.net/Pumpkin/articles/APEX.pdf for a better one." CreationDate="2011-05-24T03:17:41.813" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19262" PostId="12320" Text="Oh, shoot -- yeah, I missed the chair size (oops).  Makes sense now.  Thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-24T03:21:24.650" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19263" PostId="12338" Score="4" Text="I honestly don't think this is very subjective at all -- there's a specific set of features that the D300S has over the D7000, and there's a pretty good reason why it costs more. It's okay to duplicate information here that can be found elsewhere." CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:10:25.403" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19264" PostId="12344" Text="Anyone smart enough to explain why the downvote?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:10:39.683" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19265" PostId="53" Text="why? Please provide some reasons for your opinion. Though I like ACDSee, I would need persuasive convincing to ultimately choose it over Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:19:39.750" UserId="3078" />
  <row Id="19266" PostId="12306" Text="For the images you _didn't_ create, are we sure they don't violate the [imgur TOS](http://imgur.com/tos)?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:23:57.633" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19267" PostId="12207" Text="Are you sure the image doesn't violate the [imgur TOS](http://imgur.com/tos)?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:24:44.980" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19268" PostId="12211" Text="Are you sure the image doesn't violate the [imgur TOS](http://imgur.com/tos)?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:25:03.763" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19269" PostId="11861" Text="Thanks mattdm, I am always careful to only enter helpful information and had wondered why myself." CreationDate="2011-05-24T04:45:42.627" UserId="1410" />
  <row Id="19270" PostId="4159" Text="Great answer Matt, thank you." CreationDate="2011-05-24T07:02:44.023" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19271" PostId="12311" Text="From the Chambers Online Dictionary: diffuse _verb_ (diffused, diffusing) _tr &amp; intr_ to spread or send out in all directions." CreationDate="2011-05-24T07:34:54.193" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19272" PostId="12340" Score="1" Text="A string pod will often do the trick, it just takes practice to use it well. You also need a stable stance. I just step on the end of the string; a loop sounds like a good idea until you forget you just tied your foot to your camera the first time." CreationDate="2011-05-24T08:27:21.593" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="19273" PostId="12335" Text="@ysap Hollywood taught us that suspicious looking people with cameras must be terrorists. Whereas bananas and bandanas are optional for terrorism." CreationDate="2011-05-24T08:41:39.437" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="19274" PostId="12330" Text="I'm using Aperture. Tryed with the &quot;burn&quot; brush, but the sky is highly overexposed, like white cause the brush doesn't do anything :(" CreationDate="2011-05-24T09:23:42.037" UserId="5288" />
  <row Id="19275" PostId="12315" Text="I've used a Mamiya 645 with a 220 and 120 film backs, and of course, the film comes pretty much naked, except for the paper leader/ trailer. (not that I'm all that careful when it comes to re-loading / spooling it into the camera. That said, I meant the little plastic canisters that the film cassettes come in, rather than the cassettes. Still, thanks for the interesting post." CreationDate="2011-05-24T09:53:10.910" UserId="4400" />
  <row Id="19276" PostId="12309" Score="1" Text="@dpollit I find that the constraints of film force me to think more about the composition and tonality of the scene, hence I get more keepers from a film shoot. I quite like the aesthetic quality that one gets from film, too. " CreationDate="2011-05-24T09:56:54.810" UserId="4400" />
  <row Id="19277" PostId="12355" Score="1" Text="There's a decent tripod buying guide at http://www.warehouseexpress.com/home/?/guides/tripod-buying-guide.html" CreationDate="2011-05-24T10:29:57.330" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19278" PostId="12333" Text="@Mark Whitaker, My camera is set on standard and Lightroom 3.3 specifically contains a profile for this lens. That's part of the reason why this seems so weird.&#xA;I'm not aware that my monitor has a wide-gamut, it's a standard Dell monitor either.&#xA;In the end I processed those several images with the Canon software and I've not seen it again since" CreationDate="2011-05-24T10:37:08.513" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19279" PostId="12334" Text="This looks like it might be better split into multiple questions" CreationDate="2011-05-24T10:41:35.107" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19280" PostId="12313" Text="@rabbid - thanks for accepting my answer, I updated it. I beg to disagree upon your comparison of freelensing and tilt-shifting, as tilt shifting made with a pespective correction lens on a SLR, else with a view camera or a suitable medium format camera (Hasselblad Flexbody/Arcbody) is an advanced photographic technique which does not suffer in any way from the problems I pointed out about freelensing in both my answer and comment above :-) +1 for your question." CreationDate="2011-05-24T11:48:29.137" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19281" PostId="8548" Text="I am so tempted to tag this with `fire`." CreationDate="2011-05-24T11:53:25.107" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19282" PostId="12330" Text="Aperture does indeed have a highlight tool.  It is not the burn brush though :)" CreationDate="2011-05-24T11:56:32.907" UserId="2848" />
  <row Id="19283" PostId="12234" Text="Oooh — the large version of that looks great! Thanks for updating." CreationDate="2011-05-24T11:57:05.607" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19284" PostId="12362" Score="6" Text="Do you know for sure that this particular software does a lossless transform in the case where it's possible? I know that, for example, ImageMagick does _not_." CreationDate="2011-05-24T12:33:36.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19285" PostId="12361" Text="Why don't you try it? Copy an image. Rotate several times and see if it comes back identical. I noticed for example with Picasa the files loses about 20% size after the first 90-degree turn. On the other hand you can simply get a software with that explicit feature. ( PMView Pro is my favorite since its very efficient and super fast, its cheap too: http://www.pmview.com )" CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:18:56.897" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19286" PostId="12361" Text="@Itai: I've tried, and the size increases after turning and turning back. That does not mean that information is lost, though." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:22:33.267" UserId="5306" />
  <row Id="19287" PostId="3482" Text="Even the top LCD (and the in-viewfinder status data) might be a bit bright in a night-shooting (my experience three weeks ago at new moon - milky-way-tryout at 16mm). But the top one can be at least illuminated by a fainter light to check settings/status (long time exposure taking post-processing time)." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:22:58.613" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="19288" PostId="12365" Text="With an extern monitor that can be turned up it might be different but I found it quite difficult to make out and focus the faint light of the milky-way through the viewfinder without relying on my night-vision at 16mm APS-C." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:26:53.843" UserId="2317" />
  <row Id="19289" PostId="12365" Score="1" Text="Welcome to photo.se Luis!  [You won't get flamed for your brand decisions here](http://photo.stackexchange.com/faq)." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:29:19.943" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19290" PostId="12327" Score="1" Text="+1 for providing a way of getting the same effect in camera.  It might be useful to add that an ND filter can help lower the light enough for a long exposure." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:36:05.387" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19291" PostId="8059" Text="PNG does not support EXIF, sadly." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:44:15.907" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19292" PostId="12335" Text="@ysap - Or [watches](http://gadgets.boingboing.net/2008/08/29/its-like-a-casio-but.html). " CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:50:56.087" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="19294" PostId="12346" Text="+1, A monopod with a decent quality ball head is versatile enough for almost anything. One with a 'legwarmer' is especially nice for comfort." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:54:59.327" UserId="52" />
  <row Id="19295" PostId="12362" Score="1" Text="I know that in the past when I've done rotations it has warned me that the rotation would be lossy, which implies that in cases where the warning wasn't displayed the transformation was lossless, but I didn't check. Nor do I remember what version of WPV I was using, not precluding the possibility that MS changed the codebase, so no I can't be sure." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:55:19.263" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19296" PostId="12330" Score="2" Text="@Kreker: in Aperture it's the Recovery slider: check [this tutorial](http://www.apple.com/aperture/how-to/#video-recoveringhighlights) for more details." CreationDate="2011-05-24T13:56:33.880" UserId="3644" />
  <row Id="19297" PostId="11217" Text="@Finer Recliner - yap, sorry I was vague (and a bit rude). Did you see my answer below? Something more: the d90 belongs to a superior category of cameras (now its price got lower so it's quite a bargain). As a result the build quality is actually higher if compared to the 5100; the sensor is a bit old but still good, the body is sturdy, it handles better being a little havier and bigger, it supports an additional battery pack, it has top backlit lcd screen, DoF preview button, advanced firmware customization, big clear viewfinder w/ customizable hud info, internal AF motor..." CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:11:13.187" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19298" PostId="12330" Text="@BigDave so I have to use the highlight brush for overexposed skylight and not the burn one?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:17:22.793" UserId="5288" />
  <row Id="19299" PostId="12330" Text="@Mark Whitaker ok thanks:)" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:17:42.043" UserId="5288" />
  <row Id="19300" PostId="12361" Text="By &quot;Windows Photo Viewer&quot; do you mean the default viewer that comes with Windows 7?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:20:11.643" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19301" PostId="11217" Text="@Finer Recliner -  ...two (back and front) control dials, buttons to change image quality, ISO, white balance and metering mode w/o using the menu, AF mode switch. I think this is enough (and pretty much everything). This is what a photographer needs more than a lot of pixels, high iso and a flipping screen." CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:23:21.573" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19302" PostId="12335" Text="Insert &quot;Gorillapod + banana&quot; joke here." CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:26:02.977" UserId="988" />
  <row Id="19303" PostId="12315" Text="Hm, I was saying that the canisters are necessary because the cassettes fall apart so easy." CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:37:05.047" UserId="5284" />
  <row Id="19304" PostId="12361" Text="@Matt Grum: Yes." CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:42:01.390" UserId="5306" />
  <row Id="19305" PostId="12370" Score="1" Text="This sounds like more of an electronics question, or at least videography. Unfortunately, Photo.SE isn't equipped to handle either of those fields." CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:56:40.997" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="19306" PostId="12361" Text="@Matt Grum: It came installed under `Program Files\Windows Photo Viewer` for my Acer Aspire with Windows 7." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:02:24.190" UserId="5306" />
  <row Id="19307" PostId="7933" Text="You could do *perspective correction* instead of simply cropping when you are using method #1. In essence, this is the inverse of what a typical panorama stitching software does. The end result should look exactly as if you were physically *turning* your camera about its &quot;no-parallax-point&quot; (e.g., using a panoramic head)." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:05:36.557" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19309" PostId="12368" Text="Next time try applying some [WD-40](http://www.wd40.com/) to the springs and movable parts. I've fixed a Pentax K1000 with the same problem by doing that." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:12:10.433" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19310" PostId="12368" Text="@Andres The mirror isn't stuck - it's free and working. The mirror is cracked and fragmented." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:13:17.157" UserId="1992" />
  <row Id="19311" PostId="12368" Text="@Marco I've re-read the question and edited my comment. Sorry, my native language isn't English and I misunderstood the question!" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:15:01.803" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19312" PostId="12211" Text="@Evan: Which term of service did you have in mind? Does somebody find it pornographic?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:17:57.807" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19313" PostId="7933" Text="Anyone have any examples of Method #1? The link above does not work" CreationDate="2011-05-24T14:38:44.687" UserId="5309" />
  <row Id="19314" PostId="12344" Score="1" Text="Your answer does not contain any useful information. You have provided a good link, but you should make it clear what the link is, and why the information there is relevant to the question." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:29:22.773" UserId="67" />
  <row Id="19315" PostId="12368" Score="3" Text="I'm tempted to tag this `seven-years-of-bad-luck`...." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:34:29.307" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19316" PostId="12361" Text="Bigger! That is strange but I am not entirely surprised given the vendor of that software ;) At least there is a chance it is lossless. What you need to confirm is an image difference tool. Those are simply software that show you the difference between two images and compare the original and rotated image." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:55:25.040" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19317" PostId="12373" Score="2" Text="Just a note that at one time Tamron did produce &quot;Adaptall&quot; lenses that were pretty close to universal for bodies available at that time. They were primarily (exclusively?) manual focus though. The lens had its flange quite far forward, so there was room for a non-optical adapter with (nearly?) any mount." CreationDate="2011-05-24T15:56:43.637" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19318" PostId="12373" Text="I wish something like that would be resurrected. These days electronics in the adaptor could allow autofocus and auto-aperture without much difficulty. The only long-term future for Sony/KM, Pentax, Olympus, Sigma etc mounts is through some kind adaptall standard which would allow the whole family to compete with Canon and Nikon. I can only dream :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:00:46.503" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="19319" PostId="12337" Score="1" Text="I agree with Nate. Plenty of train stations and other public places explicitly permit photography but forbid tripods. They stick out to the side and people are often looking up at information boards and so not really concentrating on what's in front of them. It's purely a health and safety rule, and the same applies to flash which is usually forbidden on platforms because it can disorientate the train crew. When photography in general is forbidden, then that's a different matter!" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:05:31.587" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="19320" PostId="12310" Text="As well as protecting from dust and moisture, bear in mind that the film casing is rather fragile. Quite gentle crushing can crack the seal and fog the film. If the film is in a soft plastic canister it can take much more punishment." CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:11:36.107" UserId="2329" />
  <row Id="19321" PostId="7933" Text="@Jukka: I'm sorry, but that is simply not correct, and you seem to have a fundamental misunderstanding of the phenomenon of parallax. If you are using method number one, it will *never* look like true motion, and there is no way to introduce parallax in post-production." CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:27:20.240" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19322" PostId="11217" Text="@Mattia Gobbi: I initially didn't see that you had added an answer of your own below. Thank you for pointing it out, and providing a reply to my comment. I always like to hear someone else's point of view :)" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:30:08.757" UserId="4231" />
  <row Id="19323" PostId="7933" Text="@Jeffrey: Sorry, I didn't realize that my link would expire. Here's a link to a single video, but I have several posted and you should be able to poke around and find them if you need additional examples: http://www.vimeo.com/13335659" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:31:20.457" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19324" PostId="11217" Text="@Finer Recliner - It was a pleasure, thanks for your attention. See you soon here on photo.SE" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:36:50.027" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19325" PostId="7933" Text="@Jay: There is no need to introduce parallax in post-production, if the goal is to simulate *turning*. You only have parallax effect if you change the nodal point of the camera." CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:52:04.537" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19326" PostId="7933" Text="This is really the inverse of shooting a panorama. When you are shooting a panorama, you should turn the camera around the nodal point (to *avoid* introducing any parallax effects), then correct the perspective and stitch – in ideal conditions, the end result looks exactly as if you had a single wide-angle shot. Conversely, you can take a single wide-angle shot, crop parts of it, fix the perspective, and the end result looks exactly as if you had several telephoto shots (from a single location, but with the camera pointing in different directions)." CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:59:30.080" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19327" PostId="12373" Score="2" Text="I would add that once you are stepping up to better cameras such as the D7000 it makes sense to be matching it to better lenses. Adapters to random other lenses can be fun, but not really taking advantage of the camera you have." CreationDate="2011-05-24T17:30:57.680" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="19328" PostId="12207" Text="@Evan Krall: I am not sure, but I think it is the case where Fair use is applicable. The purpose of this image here is only research, commentary and self-learning (it's not for repairing DSLRs, for instance); it doesn't affect marketability nor reduce the value of the original work (which is not for sale, BTW) nor it doesn't substitute the original work as a whole, and the scope of this citation is limited only to the question we discuss. Here is a backup image: http://s003.radikal.ru/i204/1105/07/a824c2627b6a.png" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:14:54.587" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="19329" PostId="12361" Score="1" Text="Note that--as far as I know--a 90 degree rotation (and 180, 270) is lossless in and of itself because it is a swap of x and y coordinates (other angles require interpolation). So any lossyness attributed to the transform is from the recompression. You can avoid this recomputation by saving the transformed image in a lossless format, but that is clearly not part of your question, so I won't suggest it" CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:32:24.697" UserId="5314" />
  <row Id="19330" PostId="12361" Score="2" Text="@horatio, the multiples of 90 degrees are a special case for JPG compression, where it is technically possible to rotate the image without a compression cycle by &quot;simply&quot; rearranging the compressed data. It does involve removing and applying a layer of lossless compression, so the file size might change, but no lossy operations are required." CreationDate="2011-05-24T18:54:35.527" UserId="707" />
  <row Id="19331" PostId="12331" Text="This is really great!!! Thanks a lot Aisien" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:06:28.400" UserId="5111" />
  <row Id="19332" PostId="12335" Text="@Leonidas - surely you want to watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piWCBOsJr-w" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:47:01.543" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19333" PostId="12361" Text="I think I understand you, but my point is that jpeg is a disk storage format and does not have any bearing on the quality of the transforms themselves. That is to say, though one often speaks of working with jpegs etc, while the file is displayed on screen and manipulated, it is not a jpeg." CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:59:48.833" UserId="5314" />
  <row Id="19334" PostId="11329" Text="Our plan is to buy a [Canon EOS 600D/Rebel T3i](http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos600d/) and live with the kit lens if we can stretch the budget enough, otherwise get a [Canon EOS 1100D/Rebel T3](http://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/slrs/canon_eos1100d) and maybe upgrade the lens. The T3i has a slightly larger sensor and a higher resolution, but [they seem similar otherwise](http://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=canon_eos600d&amp;products=canon_eos1100d). (That the T3i got a higher rating on dpreview.com seems significant.)  " CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:03:33.023" UserId="3376" />
  <row Id="19335" PostId="12377" Text="Do you wish to share the same database, or the same image library? Few solutions can really share a database, but its fairly easy to share the image library.  You can, with careful management of importing and exporting catalogs, do this fairly easily with lightroom or aperature" CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:23:21.240" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="19336" PostId="12361" Score="1" Text="Man I have ALWAYS wanted to know the answer to this question. IMO they SHOULD be. But most likely due to the JPEG standard... I don't think it is technically possible to make this operation lossless." CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:46:15.403" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19337" PostId="12361" Score="1" Text="Google Picasa image viewer IS lossless. but it cheats. it doesn't rotate the image. it just marks down in meta data &quot;display this image rotated&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:46:50.363" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19338" PostId="12362" Score="2" Text="@MattGrum, you are answering the question &quot;is it possible to do a lossless rotation on jpeg file&quot;... which is NOT the question. the question is &quot;can xyz program do a lossless rotation&quot;. I strongly suggest editing your answer to answer the right question (and suggest making it more concise...)." CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:50:16.337" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19339" PostId="12361" Text="file size changing is suspicious. i don't have win7. someone should do a image diff: outcome should be completely black/white (make sure to check that there are no small values)." CreationDate="2011-05-24T20:53:25.740" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19340" PostId="12361" Score="1" Text="Did Picasa change that recently? When I worked at Google 1 1/2 year ago I actually asked the lead architect about that and the answer was that they first marked the image as rotated but then did the rotation (which reduced the image size) when the unsaved edits were applied." CreationDate="2011-05-24T21:12:19.647" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19341" PostId="11597" Text="Those were done with the on-camera flash?  Wow, how?  I'm especially impressed with the very first picture of what looks like a bridesmaid.  It seems very even to me.  How did you do it?" CreationDate="2011-05-24T21:28:46.437" UserId="3595" />
  <row Id="19342" PostId="12351" Score="1" Text="I've seen a collegue of mine go a bit further and tell the guard right away that he's called the management office before and some lady there told him it's okay to use a tripod. It did work." CreationDate="2011-05-24T21:33:42.680" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="19343" PostId="12362" Score="7" Text="@TrevorBoydSmith The answer to &quot;can xyz program do a lossless rotation&quot; is dependent on &quot;is it possible to do a lossless rotation on jpeg file&quot;. Honestly, answering the latter question is a much better answer than *just* the former." CreationDate="2011-05-24T21:41:36.367" UserId="2525" />
  <row Id="19344" PostId="12370" Score="1" Text="120 dB is 10^12 difference, which is about 40 stops. According to Bosch brochures, they use their own wide dynamic range CCD sensor, which may (or may not) be something similar to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_CCD Then you just have to apply some tone mapping to get image quite like the HDR that people do on their PC's. Except the resolution is 752x582. (I know this is OT, I couldn't resist :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-24T21:56:37.400" UserId="112" />
  <row Id="19345" PostId="7933" Text="@Jukka: URL with video samples, please..." CreationDate="2011-05-24T22:08:34.313" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19346" PostId="12316" Text="It's about to *explode!*" CreationDate="2011-05-24T22:19:31.523" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="19347" PostId="12381" Text="I don't have an answer for you, but I sure can relate. See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11506/how-do-i-set-up-a-home-portrait-studio-area-in-zero-space :)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T02:13:10.873" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19348" PostId="12381" Text="Full length body shot, no shadows, and a single flash, ouch. At least its a white hallway." CreationDate="2011-05-25T03:04:44.763" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19349" PostId="12360" Text="Thans asalamon! I'm giving it a shot... it's installed, but it doesn't seem to recognize my G10. Working on it." CreationDate="2011-05-25T03:06:49.743" UserId="5227" />
  <row Id="19350" PostId="12378" Text="I can't feel any vibrations on my D90, but the sound is louder than usual. You can hear it, even if you are 1/2 meter away. I'm just a bit worried about the camera being damaged due shipping. The camera is full functional, thus I assume this sound is a usual behavior and its loudness depends on every single camera." CreationDate="2011-05-25T06:09:22.713" UserId="1297" />
  <row Id="19351" PostId="12311" Text="Fair enough. This doesn't directly _soften_ your flash -- it diffuses it, and when near reflective surfaces (like walls and ceilings), the reflections soften it. Try this out in the open, and you'll find that nothing really happens except your flash has to use more power to hit your subject." CreationDate="2011-05-25T06:12:03.427" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19352" PostId="12211" Text="Ah, I didn't see the exposure info at the bottom, so I assumed that you got the picture from somewhere else." CreationDate="2011-05-25T06:22:16.923" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19353" PostId="12380" Score="2" Text="Can you post a photo of how you are doing it?" CreationDate="2011-05-25T06:23:22.483" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19354" PostId="12391" Text="Yes, the other problem of shooting by night is the big noise in auto mode without flash (if i'm able to shoot a photo keeping the camera firm). Perhaps, generally i can't shoot without a support. And i'm a little disappointed that my girlfriend's Coolpix S6000 can do better night photos without effort." CreationDate="2011-05-25T09:52:32.633" UserId="5322" />
  <row Id="19355" PostId="12357" Text="Even minor knocks and bumps will subject a lens to forces of 10 or 20g, drop and lens and you're talking 100g plus. A fighter jet is at most going to pull 7-8g so, although sustained, this shouldn't damage the IS." CreationDate="2011-05-25T10:40:21.583" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19356" PostId="12382" Text="*it has to be ring light around your lens* not necessarily, think of a light tent. The only thing you need to prevent shadows is to have light coming from all directions, which shouldn't be too hard in a narrow white corridor..." CreationDate="2011-05-25T10:44:48.383" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19358" PostId="12357" Text="I was assuming the IS was in operation at the time. It's probably around the design limit though, although manufacturing tolerances would lead to some being better at coping. I can't find any quoted figure though." CreationDate="2011-05-25T11:31:29.153" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="19359" PostId="12388" Score="1" Text="I've used the cheap tubes with that lens - what you need to do is put the lens on the camera, dial in the aperture you want (e.g. in aperture priority or manual mode), then hold down the Depth-of-field preview button. While holding it, detach the lens which will retain the aperture you want." CreationDate="2011-05-25T11:49:27.517" UserId="440" />
  <row Id="19360" PostId="12388" Text="Interesting. Don't think that would work with Nikon lenses as they are all sprung; they automatically close up when you take them off the camera or let go of the aperture lever." CreationDate="2011-05-25T12:23:23.097" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19362" PostId="12390" Score="1" Text="See http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/981/filters-must-be-destroyed-they-say for the meta-discussion on whether we should always tell people not to use a &quot;protection&quot; filter ever. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T12:31:19.173" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19363" PostId="12390" Score="1" Text="This is possibly a duplicate of http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/57/are-there-any-downsides-to-using-a-good-quality-uv-filter — that covers your core question of whether there are any potential problems intrinsic to the UV filtering itself. That doesn't address the idea that high-end &quot;L&quot; glass may be a special case, though." CreationDate="2011-05-25T12:34:24.430" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19364" PostId="6778" Text="And if, after removing color noise, the luminance noise is not &quot;grainy&quot; enough, you could move the luminance NR slider one step *too far* and then add some grain from the effects palette. Or you could omit the luminance NR and just add grain to hide the noise in plain sight. Depends on the original photo and one's taste, as always." CreationDate="2011-05-25T12:53:38.240" UserId="1913" />
  <row Id="19365" PostId="12390" Text="Some good links to read, thanks. And the UV filter comparison on one of those might help me choose whether UV might be better than clear or not if i plump for a higher end one" CreationDate="2011-05-25T13:07:01.970" UserId="3584" />
  <row Id="19366" PostId="12397" Score="2" Text="This is honestly too subjective and is part of your style and personal vision. You'll find photographers using every possible combination of software. You are looking to see if a solution is there without having a problem. Once and only once you find something you cannot do, then you can ask what it takes to do it." CreationDate="2011-05-25T13:15:38.680" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19367" PostId="12211" Score="1" Text="@Evan: I did. I did the posting in the office, but took the picture out in the breakfast nook -- the light's better there. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T13:34:31.027" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19368" PostId="11866" Text="@ElindilTheTall - still waiting for that photo ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:15:46.310" UserId="2547" />
  <row Id="19369" PostId="11866" Text="If you can work out a way for me to take a photo _of_ my camera, _with_ my camera, it'll be up in moments!" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:27:46.270" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19370" PostId="12209" Text="@goldenmean: if you want good results, I think you'll do better if you can focus and shorten the question. It's confusing to people, and that results in downvotes and no answers. You can call people &quot;too picky&quot; if you like, but ultimately, what matters is results, right?" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:38:41.943" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19372" PostId="12398" Text="Can you get to a store to try them out? It's the only way of knowing for sure." CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:57:16.043" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19373" PostId="12397" Text="@Desert__Bee, @Itai is right.  You might want to change your question to ask more along the lines of &quot;what does package X add to Lightroom?&quot; or &quot;What packages do photographers use to extend what Lightroom can do?&quot; or similar.     In other words, in stead of asking for a subjective judgement, ask about objective factors that might go into making that judgement.  " CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:05:11.977" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="19374" PostId="12398" Text="@ElendilTheTall I do not know about any store around here where they have them both and let me try them. This is kinda smaller town in France where I'm now and will be for some time." CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:12:03.377" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19375" PostId="12402" Text="Hmm. I don't think the _physical_ aperture gets smaller, so I don't think diffraction should get _worse_...." CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:20:08.473" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19376" PostId="12397" Text="The NIK plugins for Lightroom 3 are pretty good but when used in Photoshop you will gain a lot more control and creative freedom over individual shots. " CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:23:44.057" UserId="4977" />
  <row Id="19377" PostId="12398" Text="Hmmm, that's a shame. Any photo shop should let you try before you buy. Perhaps you could telephone a store or two, even if they aren't very local, and ask them for their opinion; they might try the two lenses for you." CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:24:06.783" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19378" PostId="12397" Score="3" Text="I disagree that it's overly subjective and I think it can be answered.   I've updated the title to reflect what I think is a better wording for the question." CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:37:06.710" UserId="89" />
  <row Id="19379" PostId="12404" Score="1" Text="Yeah, sorry, but that's just wrong. Lightroom has tools that allow subtle adjustments such as a brush tool and a spot removal tool, as well as the 'big' things like color correction. You might want to give the free demo a shot to get an idea of just what Lightroom does." CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:38:33.123" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19380" PostId="12404" Score="3" Text="Portrait Professional is *easily* abused and users of this software package are often big offenders of using it to create a incredibly unrealistic 'plastic skin' look. Unfortunately Portrait Professional defaults to that rather 'plastic' look in it's rather aggressive automated mode... If the software is dialed back it can be quite effective, but it is certainly not quite the 'one click and you're done!' software package that it's advertising seems to imply that it is... " CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:44:44.153" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19381" PostId="12400" Score="1" Text="I think that goes to the protection aspect, not to the benefits of UV filtration specifically. (So it's not really an answer to this question.)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:50:39.177" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19382" PostId="12326" Text="Keep in mind that the sky is, in general, much brighter than the rest of your scene. An overexposed sky may not fit in the HDR world's definition of &quot;properly exposed&quot; where your histogram is supposed to look like a [normal distribution](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_distribution), but a white sky isn't necessarily a bad thing." CreationDate="2011-05-25T15:55:01.477" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19383" PostId="12381" Score="1" Text="No shadows at all? [Shadows define form.](http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06/lighting-102-unit-11-position-angle.html)." CreationDate="2011-05-25T16:01:14.027" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19384" PostId="12398" Text="@ElendilTheTall I'm thinking about going to Lyon tomorrow just to try the lenses.. But I might not be successful even there. It is sometimes very hard to deal with French shops really. Somewhere else it would not be much of a problem but here it is (if you spent some time here you would understand). And because I don't speak French and they don't speak English nor German (and of cause any other language I speak) it is even worse... I hope I'll find some store in Lyon that will allow me to try. But if somebody know the answer or part of it, please same me that journey and trouble." CreationDate="2011-05-25T16:03:12.010" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19386" PostId="12398" Score="2" Text="I know what the French can be like... :)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:13:34.197" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19387" PostId="12404" Text="Ah right. Never used Lightroom and my cups-and-string net connection doesn't allow me to download big trials willy nilly unfortunately." CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:15:46.333" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19388" PostId="12386" Text="Thank you! I'll try that out tonight and let you know." CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:22:11.117" UserId="5109" />
  <row Id="19389" PostId="12386" Text="Yeah, let us know. I'm pretty sure this is what's going on for you, so if I know for sure I'll update the answer so its less speculative sounding..." CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:45:37.747" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19390" PostId="12362" Text="@Trevor I've now answered both questions :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:47:10.387" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19391" PostId="12362" Text="@mattdm I'm now sure!" CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:47:56.640" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19392" PostId="12397" Text="ahockley, thank you for updating the title of my question. I am new here so I'm not too great at asking perfect questions. :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T17:48:54.723" UserId="5327" />
  <row Id="19393" PostId="12362" Text="Cool. I am too. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-25T18:03:12.577" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19394" PostId="12209" Score="1" Text="@goldenmean: I'll echo @mattdm here; if you want better results you need to ask your question better (note, I did NOT say 'ask a better question!'). As it stands your question is filled with rambling tangential asides which (based on the feedback you're seeing) is making the question hard to find, and also hard to answer. I'd definitely recommend taking a look at Jon Skeet's excellent article &quot;Writing the Perfect Question&quot; for ways you can reformulate yours in order to &quot;help *us*, help *you*!&quot;: http://msmvps.com/blogs/jon_skeet/archive/2010/08/29/writing-the-perfect-question.aspx" CreationDate="2011-05-25T18:08:43.960" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19395" PostId="12408" Text="Hi Marjorie! Welcome to Stack Exchange. It works best if you ask individual questions separately — I'd suggest splitting the Q about buying refurbished out as a new question of its own. " CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:33:38.620" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19396" PostId="12408" Score="2" Text="Can you verify that the cards were formatted using that camera (vs. in a card reader)?  It makes a difference." CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:48:15.913" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19397" PostId="12382" Text="@Matt Grum thanks for pointing that out, updated my answer." CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:58:19.520" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19398" PostId="7153" Text="a bit late I know but I just saw this question. Shouldn't it be on http://www.superuser.com ?  " CreationDate="2011-05-25T21:21:46.753" UserId="3594" />
  <row Id="19399" PostId="12417" Score="1" Text="I think this question is way off topic here, but try [this site](http://www.onlineocr.net/). It's very accurate" CreationDate="2011-05-26T00:31:50.057" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19400" PostId="12417" Text="Hello and welcome to Photo.SE! As we are a photography focused site, questions dealing with the processing and manipulation of screenshots are outside of our scope. To make this question on-topic you could edit it so that it deals exclusively with OCR of text in photographs. Alternatively, you could try asking (or searching) on http://superuser.com or http://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/" CreationDate="2011-05-26T00:40:39.970" UserId="1480" />
  <row Id="19401" PostId="12417" Text="This was already cross-posted on [Unix and Linux](http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/13801/unix-tool-to-change-an-image-containing-text-and-numbers-to-text-and-numbers), so it can just be closed here" CreationDate="2011-05-26T00:45:17.470" UserId="1797" />
  <row Id="19402" PostId="12406" Score="2" Text="@Stan Rogers, for those of us who are not familiar with LR, what is there that is missing in order to realize all of the portrait post processing you justify in your answer?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:04:08.880" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19403" PostId="12404" Score="1" Text="@Jay - agree re Portrait Professional. I used a previous version (but nit too old, via a free download promo they had), and the results were definitely 'over-done'. Not *so bad*, but since I *know* the subjects personally, for me the results were a little bit unrealistic." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:08:50.723" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19404" PostId="12405" Score="1" Text="Note that if you eventually find yourself in a need for more capable software, it doesn't have to cost you a dime. Instead of the crippled PS Elements, you can use the fully loaded free GIMP." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:10:51.503" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19405" PostId="12338" Text="@Sujit: in general, &quot;what does this camera have that this other camera doesn't&quot; are questions best answered by looking at review and camera comparison sites. I think you'd get a better response if you include what you put in the added comment — that you _have_ compared the specs. That really makes it a different sort of question." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:14:44.410" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19406" PostId="12418" Text="I notice that the video on that site was put together from a series of stills. Unfortunately the originals aren't online anymore, but maybe the originator would make them available on request. It'd then be easy (and, heh, off topic) to create a video from those stills." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:29:24.307" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19407" PostId="12418" Text="Or you could pull them from the animation web page frame by frame and do the same, but that's pushing the envelope of fair use — I'd get permission first, if you're going to present it to anyone." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:30:43.887" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19408" PostId="12338" Text="@Sujit: you can edit your own question — and, in fact, that's the way to &quot;save&quot; downvoted questions. That doesn't necessarily mean it was bad in the first place, just, y'know _misunderstood_. Anyway, I only speak for myself, but put some of your background information into the question itself, and I'll happily vote it up." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:38:44.163" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19409" PostId="12418" Text="@mattdm - thanks, I was thinking about that but given the length of the sequence, I decided it just not worth it for me (not to mention copyrights). At the worst case, I will just make a simple animation in PowerPoint (with the advantage of presenting faster-than-sync-speed as well), but I really wanted to show the real thing." CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:47:36.443" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19410" PostId="7463" Text="Best course on the basics of photography ever!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T01:54:07.553" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19411" PostId="12414" Text="I agree completely. Is the slight time saved by a quick release worth the increased risk of a smashed camera? I only just trust the normal straps on my camera as it is!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T02:21:17.997" UserId="5266" />
  <row Id="19413" PostId="12414" Score="3" Text="With a good release mechanism there is no danger of accidentally triggering it.  You trust QR plates on a tripod right?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T03:48:21.217" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="19414" PostId="12360" Text="So far, no luck. Says 'Could not claim the USB device', doesn't show any cameras as attached. I am able to use ImageCapture to take pictures, but there are no controls, so I can't zoom, focus, preview, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-26T04:03:41.103" UserId="5227" />
  <row Id="19415" PostId="12360" Text="Progress! Killing the PTP process helped... it now displays info about the camera. I have gotten as far as running --capture-inage, and it opens the lens, but seems to hang there." CreationDate="2011-05-26T04:12:18.393" UserId="5227" />
  <row Id="19416" PostId="7933" Text="Jukka's perspective correction makes sense and would certainly be interesting to see.  I'm not aware of anyone doing such a thing.  You'd be limited in how far you could tilt before the stretching would be visible, would have to set up some automated process to make it smooth.  See here: http://www.lonestardigital.com/perspective_correction.htm  I don't think it'd look as cool as a straight up method #2." CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:02:21.460" UserId="389" />
  <row Id="19417" PostId="12377" Text="I'd like to share both...no reason why we shouldn't benefit from each other's edits, etc." CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:02:28.590" UserId="5316" />
  <row Id="19418" PostId="7933" Text="@Eruditass: Oh, I'm fully aware of how to use the technique for a still photograph, I was simply inviting @Jukka to put his money where his mouth is and show us some examples of this technique being successfully used in timelapse *video* applications, 'cause all the theoretical assertions about it being possible aren't worth the bits it took to write his comments if it's just a theory he has..." CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:11:29.680" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19419" PostId="12398" Text="There are an absolute ton or reviews online for both of these lenses and some even compare them.  The answers you seek are definitely available with a Google search." CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:15:37.460" UserId="1410" />
  <row Id="19420" PostId="12420" Text="This looks really good. However, I wish Nikon used the strap attachments like shown in the pictures here: http://www.amazon.com/PacSafe-Carry-Anti-Theft-Camera-Strap/dp/B004LL5MZW/ref=sr_1_2?tag=kindsyst-20 . That way there'd be less hardware involved; the Nikon rings are annoying." CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:51:13.000" UserId="5264" />
  <row Id="19421" PostId="12419" Text="This is exactly the kind of quick-release I am looking for, but on a standard two-ended strap (or that I can attach to my stock Nikon strap). " CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:55:04.750" UserId="5264" />
  <row Id="19422" PostId="12386" Text="Yup, that worked. Thank you!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T05:59:53.163" UserId="5109" />
  <row Id="19423" PostId="12426" Score="1" Text="Thanks. I've had a pro account since 2005. This has been my assumption as well. But that is all - an assumption. Nowhere on Flickr nor in their forums have I found an answer." CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:02:32.517" UserId="5336" />
  <row Id="19424" PostId="12346" Text="and +1 for walking stick. Had a whiplash in my leg while out in the mountains a few weeks ago, without that stick it's have been time to load me on a donkey to get me down to where we could get to our bus and then to the nearest phone to call for medevac. As is, I could complete the trip though at a slower pace than intended." CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:10:53.813" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19425" PostId="12335" Text="Yup. Carry a tripod or an SLR and you're considered a &quot;professional&quot; and &quot;commercial photography is prohibited without a license&quot;. And indeed anyone who's out of the ordinary (meaning a $50 P&amp;S or cameraphone) is considered a terrorist these days, especially by rentacops on a powertrip." CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:13:56.763" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19426" PostId="12414" Text="The RS7 comes with a solid pieces that screws into the tripod mount, I don't worry about that part failing. For the plastic buckle in back I wrapped a Velcro security cable tie between the two pieces so even if it disintegrated it would not instantly drop my camera." CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:15:20.090" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="19427" PostId="12431" Text="Sounds about right. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:34:15.990" UserId="5336" />
  <row Id="19428" PostId="12337" Text="London Science museum, several years ago (might have changed) banned &quot;commercial photography equipment&quot; (not &quot;commercial photography&quot;) which included tripods but the guards didn't raise a finger about my monopod and professional looking camera. Seems sanity prevails sometimes :)" CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:57:06.127" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19429" PostId="12414" Score="1" Text="Yes, it is the plastic buckle I was referring to - I find it very sturdy - was just mentioning it's construction" CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:57:06.823" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="19430" PostId="12414" Text="@Kendall Helmstetter Gelner no, I do not trust the QR plate on my tripod, I always double check it is properly secured and always pick the camera and tripod up by the camera so that only the tripod falls if it has become partly undone." CreationDate="2011-05-26T06:59:14.263" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="19431" PostId="21" Text="monopod indeed. The photographer's Swiss Army Knife. Camera support, cane, billy club, and occasional stick to swipe away overhanging branches and cobwebs." CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:00:00.247" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19432" PostId="12408" Text="Can you view the &quot;corrupted&quot; cards on the camera? does the camera still see the pictures on them?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:02:14.483" UserId="2611" />
  <row Id="19433" PostId="12424" Score="1" Text="looks like it's failing consistently, writing corrupt data. Which could point to a loose contact for one of the pins." CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:02:47.203" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19434" PostId="12414" Text="QR plates aren't vertical, and no, I don't fully trust them (having them mounted wrong and coming loose while shooting a few times, I now keep the strap around my neck even when using the camera on tripod)." CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:04:50.897" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19435" PostId="12414" Text="Another factor is that any QR strap would be very quick for a thief or mugger to release as well, possibly without you noticing..." CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:05:39.713" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19436" PostId="12419" Text="The statement 'impossible' is simply incorrect - I see a plastic buckle half way up the strap (a QR element) which could easily be operated by mistake" CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:11:26.837" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="19437" PostId="12306" Text="The images come from manufacturer press releases and whitepapers intended for republication. For example, a Canon one I have at hand states, &quot;Excerpts from this material may be quoted in published product reviews and articles.&quot; I shall edit the answer and identify the products." CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:19:11.870" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="19438" PostId="11861" Text="Nikon USA also provides a free and handy [iPhone App](http://itunes.apple.com/ch/app/nikon-learn-explore-photo/id330046127?mt=8) to learn on the go, featuring the same content as on their website. " CreationDate="2011-05-26T07:21:19.467" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="19439" PostId="4431" Text="Shizam, was the 17mm too wide on a crop or full-frame body?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T08:32:06.773" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19440" PostId="12419" Text="You see wrong.  There is only one very sturdy metal button that is impossible to activate by mistake.  There is no plastic in the QR mechanism whatsoever." CreationDate="2011-05-26T08:48:34.000" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="19441" PostId="12419" Text="@tig:  Not sure if you can easily get the QR thing off the loop, but if you could you could possibly replace one side of a two-ended strap." CreationDate="2011-05-26T08:56:22.093" UserId="1192" />
  <row Id="19442" PostId="12400" Text="that's true, @mattdm, but it's all part of the mix.  Presumably the underlying question is something like &quot;should I use a UV filter?&quot;, so I hope that my answer would be useful to someone who visits this page while researching the wider question" CreationDate="2011-05-26T09:22:45.107" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="19443" PostId="12115" Text="Im going to try aperture priority mode as its more important for me to caputre everthing rather than the flickering - also as im getting married I cant keep going to the camera to change settings. I will let you know how I get on" CreationDate="2011-05-26T09:54:52.750" UserId="5052" />
  <row Id="19444" PostId="12434" Text="Yes, you probably can with a bit of complex math, but it's beyond me. If it's on the horizon you can bypass all that and just multiply the height of your eyes (in feet, including the height of any land or building you're on) by 1.5 then find the square root of that, which gives you the (approximate) distance to the horizon in miles" CreationDate="2011-05-26T10:03:26.550" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19445" PostId="12434" Score="2" Text="My Canon 100mm f/2.8 IS USM (and presumably some other lenses) record the subject distance within the EXIF data, it might be worth investigating if your equipment does this before you enter into any complicated maths!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T10:34:40.250" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19446" PostId="12434" Text="@ChrisFletcher - wow -Iv never looked for that in the EXIF, that would be cool " CreationDate="2011-05-26T10:51:43.927" UserId="5052" />
  <row Id="19447" PostId="12434" Score="1" Text="@Chris The focussing distance will probably just say &quot;infinity&quot; which isn't all that useful!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T11:27:40.540" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19448" PostId="12434" Text="@Matt Grum I won't pretend to know how it works, I suppose at large enough distances it might struggle to figure it out. But at least with this lens I've got a variety of shots in which the EXIF data specifies distances down to a centimetre precision:&#xA;http://www.flickr.com/photos/cfletcher86/5744389335/meta/in/photostream" CreationDate="2011-05-26T11:43:08.747" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19451" PostId="12437" Text="So, in other words, &quot;no, not without knowing the size of the object in real life&quot;. Otherwise, you've got two unknown factors. The windmill could be a model that's closer than you think." CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:14:01.140" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19452" PostId="12434" Text="@Chris the camera &quot;knows&quot; the distance from the AF system, and as you suggest it becomes very inaccurate over large distances (but still accurate enough for the image to be in focus!). Also just because the EXIF specifies the distance down to a centimetre, doesn't mean the figure is accurate down to a centimetre!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:16:33.173" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19453" PostId="12434" Text="@ElendilTheTall working out distance to the horizon is actually more difficult than working out the distance to the object!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:18:06.120" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19454" PostId="12437" Text="@mattdm exactly, was just about to make that clear in the answer. You could also be photographing a photograph of a windmill etc." CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:19:12.207" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19455" PostId="12315" Text="Understood. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:44:33.507" UserId="4400" />
  <row Id="19457" PostId="12196" Text="Took some more pictures with similar problems... I have a need of a telephoto lens anyway so I'm going to buy an 18-200 lens instead and solve both problems. I will flag this question as too localized since I don't think the answers could help anyone but me. Thank you very much for trying to help me solve this problem." CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:59:11.197" UserId="5234" />
  <row Id="19458" PostId="12437" Text="@matt-grum My point is that we need one of the following: 1) either the real object size; 2) or two or more images." CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:13:01.893" UserId="1558" />
  <row Id="19460" PostId="12440" Text="&#xA;	&#xA;ahh I get what you meant by your comment now, I was assuming object size was known, otherwise it gets way more complicated, as you need not only at least two cameras, but the cameras must be calibrated" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:22:04.580" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19461" PostId="12437" Text="@jetxee yeah I get that now, from your comment it wasn't clear, as I had stated object size to be one of the knowns in my answer" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:23:53.287" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19462" PostId="12436" Score="1" Text="&quot;The great thing about standards is that there's so many of 'em!&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:37:57.233" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19463" PostId="12438" Text="Does that mean that if the experiment were repeated but with raw files and identical raw development settings were used you would expect to see a closer match?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:46:10.593" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19464" PostId="12414" Text="Never had a QR strap accidentally open after 3 years of almost daily use. Turns out it is a very comfortable strap, I almost never use the QR and wish it didn't have one because the superfluous threading. Here's the one: http://www.ephotozine.com/article/lexar-professional-camera-strap--review-7469" CreationDate="2011-05-26T13:47:43.143" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19465" PostId="12438" Text="Yes, shooting raw with linear tonecurves ought to get a lot closer, the only disparity would then be differences in ISO sensitivity (which I would expect to be within a third of a stop) and any nonlinearity in the sensor response." CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:01:13.023" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19466" PostId="12443" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [Recommendations for panorama creation/stitching tools](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/230/recommendations-for-panorama-creation-stitching-tools)" CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:14:05.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19467" PostId="12438" Score="2" Text="By the way, a half-saturated sensor is usually also mapped to 255 in raw processing (with the default settings, assuming a typical DSLR). That's exactly the reason why you can recover the highlights in an overexposed photo by adjusting the settings in raw processing: the sensor was not really saturated, it only looked like overexposed because the mapping between sensor readings and the final image clipped the highlights." CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:19:15.760" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19469" PostId="12443" Text="Some questions up front, what operating system do you use?  What type of camera are you using?  Are you just interested in the printing aspect of it, the photo taking requirements, the software aspect, or all of it?  I don't understand what you mean by &quot;for my house yard&quot;, can you explain that?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:22:25.893" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19470" PostId="12443" Text="To simply answer your question you can easily take any image with any digital camera and simply by cropping the image to make it either wider or taller depending on the type of panorama you would like - you will achieve a look of a panorama.  It will help to have as wide of an angle as possible to get a true panorama, so you can use computer software or in-camera software to join multiple images as well." CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:24:30.713" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19471" PostId="12425" Text="+1 I also use the Transporter. The built-in memory card pocket (holding a spare) has saved me several times when I have jumped out with camera only, card still in computer." CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:39:06.180" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19472" PostId="12362" Text="Thanks for the verification! The huge distortion on the 253x253 image surprises me." CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:42:49.520" UserId="5306" />
  <row Id="19473" PostId="12444" Score="1" Text="+1. Also, shutter speeds can vary from the nominal." CreationDate="2011-05-26T14:48:06.857" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19474" PostId="12438" Text="@Jukka that's right, the point is the camera can map intermediate values to just about anything. I've edited the answer to be more realistic, however." CreationDate="2011-05-26T15:01:28.060" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19475" PostId="12362" Text="@Tim an image of pure noise is by definition the worst case for jpeg (or any compression algorithm), which is why I chose it! Results on real images would look better." CreationDate="2011-05-26T15:12:03.430" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19476" PostId="12443" Text="@mattdm - Not a duplicate since that question already assumes that stitching software must be used and says nothing about the process of getting the shots that such a software needs." CreationDate="2011-05-26T15:13:27.097" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19477" PostId="12443" Text="Before posting I didnt have a single clue. But the idea is that I need to send a panorama of my front yard to a friend overseas." CreationDate="2011-05-26T15:18:46.850" UserId="5346" />
  <row Id="19478" PostId="12434" Text="Matt: As far as I know that information is sent back from the lens (which knows the focusing distance, approximately) for E-TTL2. It only works with Canon lenses with USM, though. Chris: The number being in centimeters tells you nothing about its accuracy." CreationDate="2011-05-26T16:07:20.303" UserId="2616" />
  <row Id="19480" PostId="10567" Text="They relate _not like a triangle_, is how. :) http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6598/what-is-the-exposure-triangle/12441#12441" CreationDate="2011-05-26T17:24:29.703" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19481" PostId="6599" Text="I like the text and explanation, but I'm really not convinced by the image. Can you explain how the triangle is a useful visualization? What does it add over, for example, listing all three values independently (as you do in the text)?" CreationDate="2011-05-26T18:45:13.580" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19482" PostId="12438" Score="1" Text="Both were shot in RAW and converted to DNG in Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:19:22.230" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="19483" PostId="12461" Text="Good point — once they said &quot;FLM&quot; I just started skimming and never even bothered to notice that they did it wrong." CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:37:37.627" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19484" PostId="5917" Text="Anyone reading this should note that the math given in the quote is actually _wrong_ — see below. (Thanks @greg g for point that out — I'd glossed right over it.)" CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:41:28.717" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19485" PostId="6599" Text="@mattdm It's not perfect but here's how the points of a triangle can relate to a constant variable. http://photo.heyvian.com/triangle-area.jpg I'm not sure how you would label the axis for the specific case of the Exposure Triangle, but there is some value to it." CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:42:01.510" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="19486" PostId="5917" Text="@Itai — you should fix the original article!" CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:43:14.910" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19487" PostId="6599" Text="@Vian — I think that's making my point! I know that triangles can _exist_ with an equal area (I mean, obviously, right?) but how does that show the actual interrelationship of these factors? It's very un-apparent what a change of one stop on your graph is going to mean for the overall exposure, let alone its relationship to the other variables." CreationDate="2011-05-26T19:47:52.287" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19489" PostId="6599" Text="@mattdm This is a better example of what I mean: http://photo.heyvian.com/better-triangle.gif Here it should be quite apparent what happens to exposure if you increase the value of each point along it's axis. Anyway, not arguing, I just find the triangle pretty good." CreationDate="2011-05-26T20:14:23.070" UserId="4124" />
  <row Id="19490" PostId="6599" Text="@Vian — you're getting awfully close to just drawing a 2D projection of a 3D cuboid. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-26T20:18:53.957" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19491" PostId="12441" Text="@mattdm - you are absolutely correct regarding the representation as cuboid vs triangle. The exposure space is a 3D space, not 2D, and where a setting in one axis does not limit the setting in another axis (hence a cube and not, say, a double tetrahedron). However, the CIE color space model is also, in a way, a 3D space (RGB) represented in 2D, so there are legs to the triangle model." CreationDate="2011-05-26T21:15:05.220" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19492" PostId="12441" Text="I actually consider using this representation in my presentation next-next week." CreationDate="2011-05-26T21:20:41.353" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19493" PostId="12461" Text="To be precise, I think the problem is stereometric, and not trigonometric, but you are essentially right. However, I personally never bothered to point out this difference b/c we use to think &quot;small angles&quot; so problems are easily linearized." CreationDate="2011-05-26T21:30:48.407" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19494" PostId="12461" Text="One correction, though, it is not correct to say that &quot;the exact same field of view is available&quot;. The FoV does not change with the subject distance. You can say that &quot;the exact same framing of your subject is available&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-26T21:32:23.790" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19495" PostId="7387" Text="Always take your 1-50mm lens! ;-) " CreationDate="2011-05-26T22:07:18.700" UserId="4675" />
  <row Id="19496" PostId="4431" Text="@fmark This was on a FF body" CreationDate="2011-05-26T22:07:21.007" UserId="1819" />
  <row Id="19497" PostId="12444" Text="Another issue to keep in mind is that you will lose some light when you are focusing very close, and exactly how much you lose depends on many factors (see, e.g., [this thread](http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread1358.htm))." CreationDate="2011-05-26T23:04:55.397" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19498" PostId="12444" Text="shutter speed, aperture and transmission are going to vary by a few percent, if the aperture closing varies by a stop you have huge problems. Variations in lighting due to the AC cycle is far more likely." CreationDate="2011-05-26T23:07:42.910" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19499" PostId="12465" Score="2" Text="The D700 with a larger opening does let in more light, but it also has a larger sensor so light per unit area is the same so you would expect the same exposure." CreationDate="2011-05-26T23:09:00.350" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19500" PostId="12465" Text="The micro 4/3rds has a crop factor of 2. 20mm x 2 = 40mm, which is pretty close to 50mm. And Matt Grum's response is correct as well." CreationDate="2011-05-27T02:31:46.943" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="19501" PostId="12444" Text="I don't think the aperture closing down differently each time varies enough to give it a 1-stop difference. I was not using filters or a camera with a pellicle mirror, and I was shooting in RAW, so the only difference one left is probably the different optics or different ISO measurements." CreationDate="2011-05-27T02:33:42.510" UserId="3549" />
  <row Id="19502" PostId="12464" Text="Cool. Good way to confirm the original JPEG remains the same. Thanks! I guess the last remaining question would be how much compression they use on TIFFs when they make them JPEGs. Is it worth the extra step making a 100% quality JPEG on my end before uploading?" CreationDate="2011-05-27T04:06:24.537" UserId="5336" />
  <row Id="19503" PostId="12464" Score="1" Text="same for GIF files btw. They aren't changed too. But previews will be in jpg. Important for animated gif files." CreationDate="2011-05-27T04:29:37.000" UserId="4675" />
  <row Id="19504" PostId="6240" Text="i bought my 7d 2 days ago and i'm having problems with noise under ISO 800... getting way more than I used to with my 50D!" CreationDate="2011-05-27T05:57:21.650" UserId="2132" />
  <row Id="19505" PostId="12472" Score="2" Text="I can't say that I've ever had serious noise issues with my 7D... Which leans me towards 1 of 3 thoughts with what's going on (in order of most likely to least likely): 1: User error, 2: Unreasonably nit-picky user, or 3: Broken camera... Most of the time I hear this complaint with my students we end up narrowing things down to #1. Any chance you'd be willing to post a picture or two showing the noise problem you're having?" CreationDate="2011-05-27T06:08:52.957" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19506" PostId="12472" Score="10" Text="Can you post an example image? That would make it easier to answer the question." CreationDate="2011-05-27T07:31:57.060" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19507" PostId="12472" Text="preferably with a comparable example shot from the 50D (exact same shot/settings if you still have it? or at least something close from the archives)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T07:56:07.920" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="19508" PostId="12472" Score="2" Text="Also, are you comparing pixel to pixel or accounting for the higher resolution of the 7D and viewing at a specific magnification of the full image? (7D has more *per-pixel* noise, but should have less noise at the same magnification/scale)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T08:00:37.347" UserId="889" />
  <row Id="19509" PostId="12472" Text="I'm a fellow 7D owner and so far (touch wood) no such issue so I agree with Matt, please post a sample photo of low ISO shot with &quot;very high&quot; noise level. Thanks. " CreationDate="2011-05-27T08:54:05.447" UserId="4083" />
  <row Id="19510" PostId="12467" Score="2" Text="You mention it as 75-300 and 70-300. From the price I am assuming you really mean the older 75-300 (of which there are a few models). The newer 70-300 is a good mid range lens for about $500. Just for confusion there is also a 70-300 DO and a really new 70-300L for way more money." CreationDate="2011-05-27T09:19:56.470" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="19511" PostId="12435" Text="-1 If you read my question again and properly then you will know that I'm already considering it. In the fact my question is **about Tamron  18-270** and not about Tamron 18-250." CreationDate="2011-05-27T10:30:42.987" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19512" PostId="12435" Text="Ok no -1, I don't have enough rep. for that yet. But I'll cast that downvote when I have." CreationDate="2011-05-27T10:36:24.867" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19513" PostId="12398" Text="@Barry Semple: It is not. [This is the google seach](http://www.google.com/search?q=tamron+18-270+pzd+vs+sony+18-250&amp;ie=utf-8&amp;oe=utf-8&amp;aq=t&amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&amp;client=firefox-a) that you'd try - but no usable result. Indeed, I've tried some other before asking the question. Btw. it is good habit to try if the solution works before claiming it &quot;definitely&quot; works on other Stack Exchange pages and provide some link or example...(I'd downvote your comment if that was possible). So if you know some review that compare them, please don't hesitate to share the link!" CreationDate="2011-05-27T10:41:17.373" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19514" PostId="12473" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What should I look for in a monitor for photo processing?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1687/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-monitor-for-photo-processing)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T11:35:19.993" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19515" PostId="12474" Score="2" Text="possible duplicate of [What are the advantages of shooting in a proprietary RAW format over DNG?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/759/what-are-the-advantages-of-shooting-in-a-proprietary-raw-format-over-dng)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T12:51:30.660" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19516" PostId="764" Text="I don't think this is true. Proprietary RAW files also have a container format with metadata." CreationDate="2011-05-27T12:52:16.663" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19517" PostId="12472" Score="4" Text="On the edit: there _is no grain_ in digital photographs. Posting a sample would really help." CreationDate="2011-05-27T12:57:23.870" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19518" PostId="12476" Text="Not sure I quite agree with you on the need for the converter updates for DNG. I bought the K-5 before the ACR update was out and had zero conversion issues with it when shooting DNG. I also was able to use Raw Therapee, which was much older, without issues as well. That's part of the big argument for using DNG." CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:09:24.523" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19519" PostId="12476" Score="1" Text="I may be over-stating. But I've often seen cases where a new camera comes out and DNG converters get the reds all wrong or something until they get an update. So it's no panacea. " CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:12:30.837" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19520" PostId="4316" Score="1" Text="This question could use some rephrasing. The current &quot;Here's what I think; what do you think?&quot; survey approach doesn't work well for the site. See http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/ " CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:23:13.250" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19521" PostId="12476" Text="+1 Finally someone who gets it! DNG is a standard packaging of data with an implicit process. Everytime the data changes in ways that require a different process, then the process (converter) must be updated." CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:27:06.027" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19522" PostId="12476" Text="I haven't seen it yet for Pentax, having gone K10 to K20 to K5, but sure, it's not an assurance since DNG allows for proprietary data." CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:42:02.707" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19523" PostId="12478" Text="Excellent answer, thanks Nick :)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:45:00.773" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19524" PostId="12473" Score="1" Text="An IPS panel would be optimal, but you won't find it for that price range.  Just get whatever deal you can find and purchase a calibration tool to get it closer to the ideal." CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:50:45.170" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19525" PostId="12301" Text="Not what I wanted to hear but I believe you ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T13:52:21.370" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19526" PostId="12478" Text="No probs - have fun!" CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:14:05.697" UserId="456" />
  <row Id="19527" PostId="3263" Text="@Matt Grum - 1. What is the size (in mm) of these lenses? 2. No wonder a new fab costs billions and billions to build." CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:31:15.700" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19528" PostId="3263" Text="@mattdm - I don't see why there should be a *technical* limitation on integrating an aperture mechanism in a catadioptric lens. It may have a total cut-off of the light when the aperture diameter reaches the diameter of the center mirror, but you can limit the stop-down to leave a narrow ring, I guess. Moreover, why not put the aperture *after* the secondary mirror?" CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:38:13.270" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19529" PostId="3356" Text="@Matt Grum - while we are at it, it is worth mentioning that the DoF itself depends on the output format as well, so these numbers are merely a guideline, or maybe proportion factor. Once should know what is the underlying standard for these figures and extrapolate the numbers to his own needs." CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:41:36.873" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19530" PostId="3356" Text="Oh, yeah, what @stevenvh basically said in the comment..." CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:42:42.880" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19531" PostId="3368" Text="You probably mean *Aperture* and not *Depth of Field*?" CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:45:37.483" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19532" PostId="3263" Text="@ysap: sure, but the point is that some _are_ built that way, so &quot;fixed aperture&quot; is a good term to describe that and shouldn't be used to refer to lenses with a constant maximum aperture regardless of zoom." CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:48:35.737" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19533" PostId="3263" Text="@mattdm - agreed." CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:50:50.810" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19534" PostId="3368" Text="Yep, no idea what was going through my brain there..." CreationDate="2011-05-27T14:53:27.657" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19535" PostId="1436" Text="@Edd — we end up getting tons of &quot;I'm a beginner — what lens should I get?&quot; questions, but when one looks at them, they often are _Help me choose between these two or three things I've narrowed down to_, different in each case. These questions are unlikely to be helpful to anyone else, and crucially, they usually don't illicit super-helpful advice for the questioner — the decision often is ultimately subjective, and we don't have a lot we can really add. **So, I think there's a _lot_ of value in a question that's asking in general and can be answered in general.**" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:00:40.190" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19536" PostId="7391" Text="possible duplicate of [How to choose a lens for my first DSLR?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1436/how-to-choose-a-lens-for-my-first-dslr)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:03:59.520" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19537" PostId="2274" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1436/how-to-choose-a-lens-for-my-first-dslr" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:05:07.757" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19538" PostId="1436" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/2274/getting-ready-to-buy-an-entry-level-dslr-should-i-skip-the-kit-lens" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:05:17.677" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19539" PostId="11247" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1436/how-to-choose-a-lens-for-my-first-dslr" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:05:46.990" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19540" PostId="1436" Text="And also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/11247/why-choose-an-80-200mm-over-an-18-200mm-lens" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:05:54.823" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19541" PostId="3280" Text="possible duplicate of [How to choose a lens for my first DSLR?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1436/how-to-choose-a-lens-for-my-first-dslr)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:06:54.417" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19542" PostId="139" Text="See also http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/5917/what-is-angle-of-view-in-a-dslr/ (particularly on the last paragraph of _this_ question)." CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:26:46.950" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19543" PostId="12484" Score="2" Text="See http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6615/what-is-iso-on-a-digital-camera/6622#6622, though." CreationDate="2011-05-27T15:46:03.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19544" PostId="12361" Text="For me, if you delete the .meta file (which is created next to the image) the photo gets display by picasa viewer as un-rotated. so ya... it isn't rotating the image but just sees in meta data &quot;display as rotated&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:14:48.533" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19545" PostId="12362" Text="@ArdaXi, I agree the answer to this question is dependent on what is &quot;possible&quot;. But again... to answer the question completely you don't need to talk about &quot;what is possible&quot; because the question is only asking about &quot;what does a specific program do&quot;. --&gt; If something is possible... there is no gurantee a specific program will do what is possible... it's all up to implementation. The behavior of a specific program could easily NOT do what is possible." CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:29:58.513" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19546" PostId="12487" Text="Here's a video tutorial. Fast forward to 1:50 to skip the into: http://scanonxsi.blogspot.com/2009/01/canon-xsi-auto-exposure-bracketing.html" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:30:11.650" UserId="2559" />
  <row Id="19547" PostId="12362" Text="(to beat a dead horse) EX: a lazy programmer might read a jpeg in as a matrix; then do a matrix rotation; corrupt some of the pixels; then save the image as jpeg again --&gt; so in this example the specific program does a lossy rotation even though it's possible to do a lossless rotation." CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:32:13.863" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19548" PostId="12362" Text="@MattGrum, very cool demo. I hope all digital camera makers have their image sizes in integer multiples of 8!" CreationDate="2011-05-27T16:36:15.667" UserId="5317" />
  <row Id="19549" PostId="12488" Score="1" Text="Yes, i've observed the same issue with the noise reduction. I can set the slider to 100 and no difference will appear while zoomed out. When zoomed in... it's a completely different image." CreationDate="2011-05-27T17:29:19.050" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19550" PostId="4047" Score="2" Text="[Yes](http://www.flickr.com/photos/andreskrey/3924020486/in/photostream), [it](http://www.flickr.com/photos/andreskrey/3961230076/in/photostream) [is](http://www.flickr.com/photos/andreskrey/4208254265/in/photostream)." CreationDate="2011-05-27T18:00:11.477" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19551" PostId="12435" Score="1" Text="No need to be so harsh - it was just to show that the Sony 18-250mm has reworked AF gears. There are also two versions of the Tamron 18-270mm, and the PZD version has the quickest AF of all lenses mentioned. " CreationDate="2011-05-27T18:14:17.930" UserId="4551" />
  <row Id="19552" PostId="12481" Text="This is one of the things that seems to be just a little more difficult than it should be on a Canon." CreationDate="2011-05-27T18:59:55.367" UserId="269" />
  <row Id="19553" PostId="12398" Text="@drasto - I guess this where opinions come in then as I certainly DID do the search first and found plenty of reviews of both lenses which allowed for the comparison. I'll agree to disagree ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T19:20:21.413" UserId="1410" />
  <row Id="19554" PostId="6154" Text="@Bradford Benn Magic Lantern has a special feature for that. It can't take 18mp pictures, but it's very useful for doing timelapses without killing the shutter." CreationDate="2011-05-27T19:29:39.153" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19555" PostId="12423" Text="@mattdm - Thanks for the edit." CreationDate="2011-05-27T19:33:36.090" UserId="5336" />
  <row Id="19556" PostId="12492" Text="Nope, zoomming in and then out doesn't show the actual noise reduction (At least in the last version: 3.4)" CreationDate="2011-05-27T19:53:54.427" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19557" PostId="12492" Text="Do you have 1:1 previews created on import?  That might be part of the equation." CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:09:19.913" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19558" PostId="12491" Text="I currently shoot with 70-200mm f2.8 IS (version 1) , 17-55mm f2.8 is and 50mm f1.4. I agree that glass does make a difference. I will try different conditions this weekend and post some test shots. I already sold my 50D so I won't be able to compare properly." CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:10:15.467" UserId="2132" />
  <row Id="19559" PostId="12360" Text="Still haven't been able to take an actual picture, although it sees the camera and gets as far as opening the lens." CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:50:05.387" UserId="5227" />
  <row Id="19560" PostId="12491" Text="I got rid of my 7D within months of buying it as the noise was just no good for what I shoot. It does ok at higher ISO as you are expecting a lot of noise and it seems to do better than you might expect but the ISO100 noise levels are just unacceptable when you see the cleaner images produced by other bodies" CreationDate="2011-05-27T21:59:28.153" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="19561" PostId="12495" Score="1" Text="Why &quot;nothing else&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:00:17.697" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19562" PostId="12495" Score="1" Text="Not really sure what this is asking. It comes across fairly argumentative...and the basis for the question is completely lacking. It doesn't really seem to have anything specifically to do with photography either. I'm fixing to close...but I'll give the author a chance to rework their question if they are looking for something specifically related to a camera equipment issue they are having before I do." CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:13:32.257" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19563" PostId="12497" Text="Are you looking for somewhere which lets you install an arbitrary program? Or do you want someone to do that level for you?" CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:31:46.257" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19564" PostId="12497" Score="1" Text="I think you will find that most professionals outsource this to focus on photography.  Meaning they don't host it.  Also many of the better solutions will provide better support and upgrade paths when they host them." CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:34:19.737" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19565" PostId="12495" Score="5" Text="-1 from me. I'm inclined let it be closed (and put my vote in as such) mostly for it being off-topic, but the argumentative tone didn't help... OP gets less 'noob lenience' with me as a user with prior SE experience who should be more familiar with the 'SE Way' of doing things. I think the question could possibly be saved, but the OP would have to put some effort into reworking it..." CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:35:04.057" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19566" PostId="12497" Text="I am also a web developer/designer and comfortable with using anything built with php/javascript/etc. I could built this from scratch but that is too time consuming." CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:42:05.027" UserId="5367" />
  <row Id="19567" PostId="12499" Text="I see your comment on being a web developer was now added.  I would look at both of these same options, but just install them yourself.  The great thing about these options is you will spend less time customizing code and more time photographing, editing, and posting great photos." CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:43:17.773" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19568" PostId="12497" Text="It doesn't sound like you want a &quot;service&quot; as suggested in the question.  Do you actually want a website backend framework?  A service implies you want more of a hands-off approach." CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:44:28.600" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19569" PostId="12497" Text="The reason I assumed service was the comment about Gallery2 — if you're running it yourself you could just install newer code. So I assume the request is for a self-service solution which provides individualized portfolio sites under a hosted model. Buy I could be mistaken — in which case my edits should be rolled back!" CreationDate="2011-05-27T22:55:16.900" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19570" PostId="12497" Text="Self-hoted is pretty explanatory. I worked on gallery2 a few years ago ( building a plugin) and am very familiar with it's code base, updated or not I don't want to use it, and I did not want to go into the details as to why." CreationDate="2011-05-27T23:00:18.890" UserId="5367" />
  <row Id="19571" PostId="12499" Text="yes this is more in line, thanks, something I can customize but won't take forever." CreationDate="2011-05-27T23:02:13.270" UserId="5367" />
  <row Id="19572" PostId="12497" Text="I'm still a little confused. Would you use Gallery 3? Or are you looking for something else? It does sound like my edits should be undone. " CreationDate="2011-05-27T23:11:29.217" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19573" PostId="12497" Score="1" Text="&quot;Self-hosted&quot; technically means &quot;a piece of software which can build or run itself&quot;. That's clearly not what you mean, but it's also less explanatory than you think it is. I'm also not sure you can get good recommendations without being clear about what you don't like about apparently-reasonable options. " CreationDate="2011-05-27T23:22:13.953" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19574" PostId="12491" Text="@JamWheel what was your alternative ?" CreationDate="2011-05-28T02:03:07.443" UserId="2132" />
  <row Id="19575" PostId="12480" Score="1" Text="ISO 8000 - http://www.flickr.com/photos/spqr_ca/5741183257/in/photostream" CreationDate="2011-05-28T03:33:49.560" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19576" PostId="12480" Text="ISO 20000 - http://www.grumpyjohns.com/wp-content/gallery/picture-a-day-november-2010/07.jpg" CreationDate="2011-05-28T03:35:43.740" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19577" PostId="12480" Text="Both are my photos taken with a Pentax K-5... I'd say high ISO is handy. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-28T03:36:21.477" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19578" PostId="12489" Score="1" Text="Good write-up! But you should include in your post that the exposure of the ISO 100 shot was corrected in post." CreationDate="2011-05-28T04:20:59.373" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="19579" PostId="12500" Score="2" Text="Is this the same as [dpreview.com noted](http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond7000/page18.asp): &quot;Live View aperture control ... When you enter Live View, the camera will stop down to the currently set or metered value (offering an undocumented depth-of-field preview in the process), but what it won't then do is readjust the aperture opening 'live' if you change it. It will honour the set aperture when actually making an exposure, and indeed return to live view at that aperture afterwards; alternatively you can force it to readjust by exiting and re-entering live view.&quot;?" CreationDate="2011-05-28T07:40:09.107" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="19580" PostId="531" Text="Aperture has significant impact on resulting photo, so it's rare when it should be left automatic. As Matt Grum has clearly demonstrated in answers his related to high ISO, a lower ISO than needed for correct exposure results in more noise than a higher ISO." CreationDate="2011-05-28T08:09:58.277" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19581" PostId="12452" Text="Yeah, I'm apparently looking for something that doesn't exist in the consumer space. Sigh. If I had time, I'd write it." CreationDate="2011-05-28T08:22:17.420" UserId="5316" />
  <row Id="19582" PostId="12507" Text="You haven't linked to the image properly..." CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:02:34.847" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19583" PostId="12508" Score="1" Text="I used the same lens both times!" CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:19:24.990" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="19584" PostId="12507" Text="I see the image put correctly in the question.. this is the [direct link](http://i.stack.imgur.com/MPvWD.jpg)." CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:20:33.617" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="19585" PostId="12507" Text="The only links in the question are 'here' to the other question and the link to the 550D - it just says 'enter image description here' with no link'. Your direct link goes to a 404 error, so that's probably the issue." CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:23:30.750" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19586" PostId="12507" Text="@ElindilTheTall: No, it does not.. I just checked again.. it links to an image." CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:25:41.540" UserId="64" />
  <row Id="19587" PostId="12507" Text="The address is http://i.stack.imgur.com/MPvWD.jpg , but it just results in a 404 for me..." CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:30:17.770" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19588" PostId="12507" Text="Bingo, now it works" CreationDate="2011-05-28T10:54:32.333" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19589" PostId="4654" Score="1" Text="Although current TTL systems are preflash based, older ones measured during the actual exposure, with a sensor reading reflected light from the film plane. " CreationDate="2011-05-28T12:12:54.713" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19590" PostId="12435" Text="Did you try it? What I'd like to know is exactly that: If the PZD version has quickest AF..." CreationDate="2011-05-28T12:55:45.280" UserId="5244" />
  <row Id="19591" PostId="12512" Text="Is the 'manual focus' lens also one with only manual aperture?" CreationDate="2011-05-28T13:02:33.963" UserId="3584" />
  <row Id="19592" PostId="12512" Text="@Dreamager: yes, it's actually 2 newly purchased Nikkor lenses from the late 60s, early 70s. Both have been &quot;AI'd&quot; and I set the aperture on the lens. " CreationDate="2011-05-28T13:07:12.857" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="19593" PostId="12441" Text="@ysap: the normal 3D representation of CIE L*a*b* is simply a slice through the 3D solid — same as taking aperture and shutter without regard to ISO." CreationDate="2011-05-28T13:35:40.783" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19594" PostId="12500" Text="Do you have a D7000? That is not exactly what I observed. As described, I CAN change the aperture in Aperture-Priority mode under Live-View but NOT in Manual mode. It does not honor the set aperture either in M mode, not does it change on any of the displays." CreationDate="2011-05-28T13:52:42.663" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19595" PostId="12515" Text="This does not seem to answer the question. OP seems to be interested in getting the *exposure* correct, not the *white-balance*." CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:25:18.237" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19596" PostId="12516" Score="2" Text="Thanks for your answer! I did go to a store already, however, I don't think it can tell me how I will feel with the camera after working with it for one month. As a Canon-guy, I kind of drift through the Nikon menues unorientedly, discovering interesting stuff here and there, but I don't feel I fully grasp it. " CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:33:25.653" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="19597" PostId="12516" Text="Also: Can you tell me anything about the switching of the continuous/one-shot and the auto-choice/center-sensor AF mode? On my 450D, I need to press at least 2 buttons for each of those and cannot do the former without taking the camera down to look at the display. Is that better on the 5D/D700? &#xA;&#xA;Furthermore, I've heard the 5D has a very good system for saving different sets of settings. Is that correct? Does the D700 have anything similar?" CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:36:52.527" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="19598" PostId="12515" Text="Thanks for the camera bag interior tip, I do have a Domke bag which I would be surprised if it's NOT 18% gray ;) In any case I can compare to a known &quot;good&quot; lens." CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:44:45.357" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="19599" PostId="12517" Text="Thanks, I would probably have remembered the Sunny 16 rule if it had been, in fact, sunny ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:45:22.500" UserId="3114" />
  <row Id="19600" PostId="12515" Text="@Jukka - He asked for alternatives to gray cards, I gave him those..." CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:53:09.263" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19601" PostId="8922" Text="Update: Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes." CreationDate="2011-05-28T14:57:39.917" UserId="2565" />
  <row Id="19602" PostId="12500" Text="I don't have a D7000. I (mistakingly) thought a Nikon friend had one, however they pointed out the review I linked - thought it might provide some information while you wait for an answer." CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:16:29.237" UserId="5177" />
  <row Id="19603" PostId="12441" Text="@mattdm - I am referring to the CIE 1931 color space: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CIE_1931_chromaticity_diagram#The_CIE_xy_chromaticity_diagram, not the L*a*b model." CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:32:25.433" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19604" PostId="12435" Text="I've only got experience with the Sony 18-250mm (found AF to be too slow, so I got the Sony 70-300mm SSM). The SSM motor is comparable to the PZD motor, so it definately should have the quickest AF, but I haven't got my hands on one yet.." CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:33:48.123" UserId="4551" />
  <row Id="19605" PostId="12441" Score="2" Text="@mattdm - your update made the point even clearer, and I'll iterate that you are absolutely correct in that the space that is span by 3 independent vectors is a 3-space, which is represented by a cube, and not a 2-space, representable by a triangle." CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:52:45.610" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19606" PostId="12441" Text="@ysap — oh yes, I see what you mean. That works for that purpose but this is trying to show something different. Different visualization tools for different tasks... http://www.cs.rit.edu/~ncs/color/t_chroma.html" CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:54:30.357" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19607" PostId="12516" Text="D700: A 3-way selector on the front chooses between single-shot, continuous or manual focus. Another 3-way dial on the rear chooses between auto-AF point, single-point and dynamic (groups of points). Press OK to return to center-point. 5D Mark II: Use the joystick to move the AF-point around, press it in to select the center, once more for auto-select. AF mode changed by a top button combined with the rear dial. With practice you'll be able to do it on both but the Nikon's controls are more direct. The Nikon supports custom settings too, I have never used them though." CreationDate="2011-05-28T15:57:36.783" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19608" PostId="12520" Score="1" Text="Yeah, I thought about that too. There's the issue with confusion with actual tripods, which may or may not be problem. But worse, tripod implies that the three &quot;legs&quot; need to be adjusted with each other to get a &quot;level&quot; exposure — another broken analogy, since what needs to be balanced is these factors with the lighting of the scene. (I'm actually in-progress with drawing a balance scale to illustrate the last part of my answer, about stops.)" CreationDate="2011-05-28T16:28:17.113" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19609" PostId="12430" Text="@jaxxon: Your answer makes it sound like you are someone who does Miksang photography. Is that true?" CreationDate="2011-05-28T17:12:21.530" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19610" PostId="12441" Text="I think the terms used for aperture in your cuboid are backwards. You would get &quot;all in focus&quot; at narrower apertures (f/22) and &quot;bokeh&quot; at wider apertures (f/5.6)." CreationDate="2011-05-28T17:18:04.340" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19612" PostId="12441" Text="@mattdm: Other than that, excellent answer. About time someone wrote down the exposure cuboid. Its been talked about enough, but I've never seen it actually documented anywhere." CreationDate="2011-05-28T17:27:42.487" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19613" PostId="12516" Score="1" Text="This does come across as a particularly biased answer. You've plainly listed all of Canon's detractors (at least, according to you), all of Nikons attractors, but none of the converse for either brand. Obviously, both cameras have their pros and cons, and I think that should be represented. I am not a heavy user of either high-end camera, so I can't speak to them well enough...but I don't think this is really the best answer given the bias. " CreationDate="2011-05-28T17:30:54.260" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19614" PostId="12441" Text="@jrista — Thanks. Copy-paste error as I rotated the flat grid to be Three Dee. Fixed now!" CreationDate="2011-05-28T17:43:10.043" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19615" PostId="12441" Score="7" Text="@mattdm: I remain unconvinced by your arguments and intend to simply continue teaching the Exposure Tricycle as I have been doing successfully for many years now... *Everybody* understands tricycles..." CreationDate="2011-05-28T17:51:36.987" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19616" PostId="12520" Text="@ysap But there is a relationship between the three variables: exposure. If you're trying to take a photo exposed to a certain value, you only have two degrees of freedom -- if you change one variable, you must change one or both of the others." CreationDate="2011-05-28T18:12:45.143" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19617" PostId="12507" Text="Three blade (triangular) apertures are extremely rare, you'd know if you had one from the weird bokeh! " CreationDate="2011-05-28T18:26:37.307" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19618" PostId="12517" Text="There's also the lesser-known &quot;Overcast 11&quot; rule, which has a much less catchy name. In general, mid-day light is pretty constant and  if you're not dealing with shadows or changing weather, you can tweak your exposure manually and leave it there for a while." CreationDate="2011-05-28T18:41:59.397" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19619" PostId="12441" Text="@Jay — awesome. What I need now is a picture of someone in the front of a class showing that as a slide, and pointing to it with one of those old-fashioned wooden pointers..." CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:24:09.167" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19620" PostId="12516" Text="Note the emphasis on the *I*. The D700 vs 5D statements are only examples of handling differences based on my use. Note that **the question is restricted to handling**, of which I prefer the Nikon. I also said *someone can find handling differences that favor the Canon*. That would of course depend on workflow and photographic style. I did mention I own a Canon DSLR too, for very good *non-handling* reasons. I would answer in favor of Canon or any other brand given a question where I truly feel that brand to be better suited for." CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:37:30.237" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19621" PostId="12524" Text="Hi Spencer — welcome to the site. While we do support questions about photographic processes in Photoshop, questions about using the user interface and so on are better on http://superuser.com/ — this is off-topic here." CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:40:27.660" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19622" PostId="12524" Text="Thank you for referring me to that website, mattdm. " CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:43:07.973" UserId="5378" />
  <row Id="19623" PostId="12524" Text="I've flagged the question to be migrated, and it should be moved shortly. No need to repost there." CreationDate="2011-05-28T19:43:40.280" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19624" PostId="12507" Text="This question is asked (implicitly) and answered at http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/6605" CreationDate="2011-05-28T20:19:35.267" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="19625" PostId="10567" Text="@mattdm - I'm impressed with your answer about the &quot;triangle&quot; - but it's unlikely you'll be able to change this terminology (but I do like the exposure tricycle) " CreationDate="2011-05-28T21:04:01.553" UserId="2481" />
  <row Id="19626" PostId="10567" Text="Yes, it's definitely a little bit of tilting at windmills. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-28T21:07:24.670" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19627" PostId="12524" Text="&lt;cough&gt; use a layer mask with a reflected gradient rather than the standard linear gradient. No need to link layer masks. &lt;cough&gt;" CreationDate="2011-05-28T21:14:41.890" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19628" PostId="12520" Text="@Evan Krall - what I meant is that the three can be changed independently. I was aiming at the *semantics* rather than at the model. in a 2D space span by 3 vectors, a change in one will cause a change in at least one other. Anyway, the exact *mathematical* representation is a cuboid, as @mattdm suggests. It is important to realize that a constant exposure in this space is not a plane cut in a the cube, but a **hyperboloid**. Any point on a given hyperboloid will yield the same average brightness of the image. Jumping to a higher hyperbole means a brighter image and vice-versa." CreationDate="2011-05-28T21:22:44.903" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19629" PostId="12523" Text="Very true points, I am now convinced to buy a 550D or 600D. Jut for your information if you take a lens off while the camera is ON it will keep its current aperture. So I have my lenses usually upped a step before I use them on the Sony, to avoid the softness : )" CreationDate="2011-05-28T22:04:16.487" UserId="5079" />
  <row Id="19630" PostId="12528" Score="7" Text="I've always wondered, but never took the time to actually check: what about metering? When you use digital zoom to zoom into an area with different lighting, can you give the camera a better idea of how to expose the part of the photo you are interested in? " CreationDate="2011-05-28T22:18:01.923" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="19631" PostId="12441" Text="@mattdm - to complete your answer, refer to the surface of constant exposure in your 3-space. See my reply to Evan's comment to my answer." CreationDate="2011-05-28T22:36:06.640" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19632" PostId="12528" Score="4" Text="@rm999 - great question, and IMHO, deserves a full **question** by itself, as a followup to this one." CreationDate="2011-05-28T22:40:37.267" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19633" PostId="12525" Text="Good. You confirmed that you had a different behavior and almost found the cause. The guilty party as 'Manual movie settings'. When set to ON, the aperture cannot be changed and shutter-speed is restricted to 1/30s or faster. Turning it Off, makes Manual exposure in Live-View work as expected." CreationDate="2011-05-28T23:17:49.510" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19634" PostId="12529" Text="@Itai - apparently from the other answers, there are a couple of advantages for digital zoom. I give +1 for the thoroughness of the facts list, though." CreationDate="2011-05-29T01:34:40.687" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19635" PostId="12513" Text="Can somebody please explain why this has 2 close votes?" CreationDate="2011-05-29T01:35:19.247" UserId="2069" />
  <row Id="19636" PostId="12492" Text="@dpollitt I did a 1:1 preview import and the problem is still present." CreationDate="2011-05-29T01:58:15.217" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19637" PostId="12518" Text="I did a 1:1 preview import, zoomed in and out and I can see the same noise and color artifacts. Do you use mac or pc? Nice explanation, btw." CreationDate="2011-05-29T02:00:29.290" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19638" PostId="12529" Text="OK, I had not thought about the re-compression, quite minor since after cropping you can save as PNG/TIFF or other lossless format. Luckily I used the words *much use* ;)" CreationDate="2011-05-29T02:09:53.010" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19639" PostId="12529" Score="1" Text="@Itai - I think that the real advantage is actually not requiring PP at all, as per Henry Jackson's answer." CreationDate="2011-05-29T03:18:37.270" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19640" PostId="12491" Text="@Alexandre I ended up with a 1D MkIV lol" CreationDate="2011-05-29T04:59:44.280" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="19641" PostId="7594" Text="It's not very obvious how to do it on Lulu, could you give some hints or a link to sample gallery? All of the info in Lulu's &quot;Publish&quot; section seems to be targeted on selling physical items, such as a book." CreationDate="2011-05-29T08:17:35.867" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19642" PostId="5432" Text="And ironically enough, it is the *BSD license* that built the internet, at least if you consider the TCP/IP stack the internet." CreationDate="2011-05-29T09:27:09.867" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19643" PostId="12532" Text="But, more useful than cropping later?" CreationDate="2011-05-29T12:22:01.130" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19644" PostId="7594" Text="@Imre: Upload a project type &quot;Digital Files&quot;, then you can do what you need to." CreationDate="2011-05-29T13:24:16.613" UserId="2692" />
  <row Id="19645" PostId="12498" Text="Why the down vote? This answer was before the comment about being a web developer was added, so I went for the a simple solution that would achieve what was requested." CreationDate="2011-05-29T13:59:18.400" UserId="2818" />
  <row Id="19646" PostId="12489" Text="My understanding is that of the 2 RAW images before any processing is done the ISO1600 image will have more noise.  Yes, both images have had the same steps done on them in post, but the auto contrast function will have performed more gain increase on the ISO 100 image meaning more than one variable has changed so the experiment isn't valid." CreationDate="2011-05-29T14:04:54.590" UserId="2818" />
  <row Id="19647" PostId="12489" Text="@Phil When it comes to images signal-to-noise-ratio is what matters. The ISO1600 image has a better signal to noise ratio both before, and after the ISO100 image is brightened in post. Increasing the brightness of the ISO100 image was required to make it easy to see, it is merely normalisation which is used all the time in experiments and does not invalidate anything. The point is if you have a limited amount of light, the high ISO setting is very useful as it gives a cleaner final image." CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:15:18.240" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19648" PostId="12532" Score="1" Text="@mattdm yes, the person was larger in EVF for lining up with a focusing point (quite hard with extreme zoom and subject speed), the files were smaller, and I had to spend much less time at computer. E.g. this picture would've been hard to focus using full resolution - [link](http://nagi.ee/photos/a4imrel/1221091/in-set/23655/)" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:35:57.763" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19649" PostId="12489" Text="Ok that makes sense, thanks for the extra clarification.  I'm more used to Computer Science experiments where all parameters of the process except the one you are investigating have to be exactly the same.  " CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:43:12.047" UserId="2818" />
  <row Id="19650" PostId="12532" Text="Sounds good to me. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:50:44.073" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19651" PostId="12498" Text="The original version did say &quot;don't mention flickr or picassa&quot;. " CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:53:22.700" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19652" PostId="4912" Text="A light leak? Light leaks are notorious for letting extra light in, not for letting light coming from lens escape." CreationDate="2011-05-29T16:07:47.100" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19653" PostId="12530" Score="2" Text="Since this sort of question is bound to attract folks who don't know all of our insider jargony photography TLAs yet let me just add... &quot;just so that someone doesn't make the mistake of thinking that not using digital zoom causes intelligence loss, in the context of @mattdm's answer, **IQ = Image Quality**.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-29T16:08:53.670" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19654" PostId="12530" Score="1" Text="Since this sort of question is bound to attract folks who don't know all of our insider jargony *geek* TLAs yet let me just add... &quot;in the context of @Jay's comments, **TLA = Two Letter Acronym**.&quot; :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-29T16:10:05.057" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19655" PostId="12498" Text="It said  &quot;don't mention photo sharing sites like Flickr, Picassa&quot; this doesn't use the picassa photo sharing site, it uses the application which runs on your computer, so it meets the self hosting requirement rather than using someone else's infrastructure.  I'm still getting the hang of this SE  system so am interested in finding out how improve my answers." CreationDate="2011-05-29T16:22:15.213" UserId="2818" />
  <row Id="19656" PostId="12498" Text="I think your answer is fine and actually the question a little iffy. (More hostile than necessary; not enough explanation). " CreationDate="2011-05-29T16:34:04.167" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19657" PostId="12513" Score="2" Text="Probably because of the unwritten rule against using Canon and Nikon models in the same question ;) I'm not bound by that rule since I've been reviewing cameras for years and understand the differences, pros and cons well. There are reasons more than one model sells. As long as the pros and cons are factually explained, the information is useful to consumers and manufacturers." CreationDate="2011-05-29T17:21:45.683" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19658" PostId="12535" Score="2" Text="@Learner - Hi and welcome to the site! Unfortunately, we're really a site about Photography (how to take the pictures) and not about how to find pictures using a website.  If you're near any of these places and would like tips on how to photograph them, feel free to ask a more specific question." CreationDate="2011-05-29T19:10:15.267" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19659" PostId="12536" Score="5" Text="In addition to flexible ISO, you also have a flexible white balance - you no more have worry for having correct filters for given light." CreationDate="2011-05-29T19:20:39.607" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19660" PostId="12525" Text="Yeah, it seemed more likely that some setting was changed than your camera being defective, especially since aperture could be controlled outside live view." CreationDate="2011-05-29T19:38:52.670" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19661" PostId="12539" Text="Similar, but for Nikon: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7081/is-af-s-dx-micro-nikkor-85mm-f-3-5g-lens-good-for-both-macro-and-portrait" CreationDate="2011-05-29T20:44:48.563" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19662" PostId="12539" Text="@mattdm - I agree it is similar, but the only answer given addressed the shortcomings of that particular Nikon lens and didn't really get into the detail on why or why not to use a Macro for portraits." CreationDate="2011-05-29T20:47:56.293" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19663" PostId="12539" Text="I know — I'm not complaining, just adding the link for reference." CreationDate="2011-05-29T20:48:46.687" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19664" PostId="7081" Text="Similar, for but Canon: http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/12539/should-i-use-a-100mm-macro-lens-as-a-portrait-lens" CreationDate="2011-05-29T20:49:30.273" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19665" PostId="12540" Score="2" Text="I have to vote this down. These kind of tests are the exact opposite of useful for considering a lens for portraits. It's the &quot;_a bit subjective_&quot; that's essential." CreationDate="2011-05-29T21:02:42.940" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19666" PostId="12529" Text="It's sort of misleading to say that digital zoom only crops &quot;around the center,&quot; since you can recompose as you're shooting and frame it however you want. It's true that you can't *change* the composition later, though." CreationDate="2011-05-29T21:39:29.027" UserId="4690" />
  <row Id="19667" PostId="12540" Score="1" Text="@rfusca's answer claims that sharpness &quot;should be better&quot; and that distortion is &quot;typically lower&quot;, yet these tests demonstrate that both of these statements are untrue. I therefore have to disagree that such comparisons play an important part in the decision making process." CreationDate="2011-05-29T22:14:13.580" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19668" PostId="12541" Text="It is worth noting that macro lenses are generally not used (or optimised for use) at their widest aperture, yet a wide aperture is often desirable for portrait photography." CreationDate="2011-05-29T22:18:55.697" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19670" PostId="12540" Text="I am very familiar with the-digital-picture and its associated charts and tests.  I was interested in learning rather, if a macro lens specifically is great for portrait work and not just macro work. " CreationDate="2011-05-29T22:41:17.713" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19671" PostId="12529" Text="All cameras that I know zoom digitally around the center. Can point your camera any way you like but you are still going to give you a central perspective. If it gave you the same thing, people wouldn't pay so much for a shift-lens." CreationDate="2011-05-29T23:15:55.613" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19672" PostId="5917" Score="1" Text="Good catch. Thanks! Kind of subtle since a number of answers got it wrong too. That should be *90° on full-frame gives 56° on a cropped-sensor*." CreationDate="2011-05-29T23:30:50.603" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19673" PostId="12541" Text="@gjb despite the fact you'd very rarely shoot macro wide open the two Canon 100mm macros I have are sharp at f/2.8 when I've used them as short teles." CreationDate="2011-05-29T23:32:07.847" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19674" PostId="12543" Text="It's a good point, if you want great bokeh in a portrait lens scrape together everything you can to get the 135 f/2.0L" CreationDate="2011-05-30T00:24:21.583" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19675" PostId="12540" Score="1" Text="I find it actually informative enough to affect any future decision. +1." CreationDate="2011-05-30T01:53:02.980" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19676" PostId="5920" Text="Oh hey. The math is also incorrect on this. See @greg g's answer." CreationDate="2011-05-30T02:29:27.000" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19677" PostId="12540" Score="1" Text="+1 I think these tests are useful; they provide an objective comparison you won't easily find in sample shots. " CreationDate="2011-05-30T02:57:52.770" UserId="1125" />
  <row Id="19678" PostId="12537" Text="whoa! i never thought about this swapping films technique when working with films! +1" CreationDate="2011-05-30T03:55:34.427" UserId="1438" />
  <row Id="19679" PostId="12537" Text="Sounds useful but painful." CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:00:10.210" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19680" PostId="12542" Text="Wow, thanks! I'll give that a try, but it sounds like a way to go." CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:08:31.040" UserId="5387" />
  <row Id="19681" PostId="12537" Text="It's especially painful if your camera rewinds the film completely, without leaving end of film out of cassette. Then you'd have to rewind by hand in darkness." CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:19:57.110" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19682" PostId="12548" Text="I see them with the lens cap on. Shipping sensors with pre-mapped stuck pixels? That sounds pretty shady.&#xA;&#xA;Thanks for the tip. I'll see what I can find." CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:28:46.057" UserId="5392" />
  <row Id="19683" PostId="12548" Text="well they sell monitors with dead pixels too... " CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:37:28.587" UserId="4675" />
  <row Id="19684" PostId="12548" Text="you'd never know if they were shipped with a few pixels stuck and premapped. The data for that pixel will then be computed based on surrounding pixels. It's a rare day indeed when you'd notice the difference. For that reason (and the same for screens) there's a set (LOW) number of stuck pixels that's considered acceptable for shipping (and warranty usually doesn't cover a number lower than that either for servicing or replacement)." CreationDate="2011-05-30T04:59:28.767" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19685" PostId="12548" Text="Ask yourself: if you'd not been looking at that image through a microscope (essentially), would you ever have noticed? The answer should be no, which is why a tiny number is no problem (you probably only noticed because they were close together). Sensors are expensive enough to make, if they were scrapped from the line for 1-2 dead pixels, they'd cost even more (dropping failure rate on production lines is the only reason sensors get cheaper any more, they're pretty low margin items despite the high price)." CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:02:06.940" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19686" PostId="12537" Text="it is painful. For that reason I never did it, even though I had figured out it was possible (my cameras would indeed rewind completely, leaving no leader outside the can). Worse is that you can never trust the exact positioning of the frames, so if you had exposed 15 shots, you'd best not shoot the next frame after reloading on frame 16 but 17 or 18 to avoid possible overlap." CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:04:40.387" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19687" PostId="12530" Score="1" Text="not a lot of cameras that produce RAW output would have a digital zoom option, the customer base for both isn't at all the same :)" CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:07:13.130" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19688" PostId="7483" Text="Not necesserilly even that. The notes on paper are a copyrighted work, the actual notes aren't but the way they're edited is :) You could take those notes and write them down and you'd have your own original work, but you couldn't make photocopies of that paper and give them away (or sell them)." CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:13:20.960" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19689" PostId="4047" Text="for me, no (not only don't I own Canon equipment, I don't do portrait much and generally dislike 50mms, but I have both a 35 and 70mm prime already). For you, maybe :)" CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:19:03.390" UserId="4000" />
  <row Id="19690" PostId="12530" Text="The camera _might_ also decide to compress a digitally zoomed image less, since it would naturally be a smaller file to begin with. This could also lead to a higher quality image than if you cropped later." CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:25:01.040" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19691" PostId="12548" Text="Good point, I guess a low number of problematic pixels is acceptable. But they are easily noticed in certain situations without zooming, usually ISO 800 and above. At ISO 400 and below there are just a few, but at 800 and up they really come out. The lens cap test looks like a picture of the galaxy, near stars, red-shifted stars. I was having a bit of fun exploring it actually." CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:28:43.140" UserId="5392" />
  <row Id="19692" PostId="12548" Text="@Louis: Regarding shipping sensors with stuck or dead pixels...out of 8 million, a few bad ones are usually unnoticable when they are mapped out. Yield in IC manufacturing, particularly CMOS products, is an extremely touchy thing, and canning every sensor with even the smallest defect (a stuck pixel is pretty small) could cost a company millions. " CreationDate="2011-05-30T05:50:37.577" UserId="124" />
  <row Id="19694" PostId="12542" Text="Yes, this is looking good. All I needed to do is configuring the path to my Lightroom installation in the plugin manager. Thanks again! :-) *- It's also worth noting that under Windows you must temporarily start Lightroom as an administrator to actually be allowed to change keyboard shortcuts.*" CreationDate="2011-05-30T06:06:50.730" UserId="5387" />
  <row Id="19695" PostId="12542" Text="@Tomalak: Glad it worked out for you! I use the plugin myself and have found it quite handy. If my answer... well... answered your question, don't forget to select it as the correct one. Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-30T06:32:17.163" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19696" PostId="12430" Text="I would say that I use the principals of it to some extent, but am not a serious &quot;practitioner&quot; in the sense of making it a daily focus in my work. I am doing a 365 photo-a-day project for the purpose of keeping my eyes open and my awareness more keen - so the principals of miksang are on my mind a lot while I shoot. But I'm not a Buddhist, nor am I very serious about applying the technique.. just that I have some practical experience with it. That is all." CreationDate="2011-05-30T06:53:28.043" UserId="5336" />
  <row Id="19697" PostId="12430" Text="@Jaxxon: So I'm curious where you picked up your &quot;practical experience&quot; with Miksang... Did you attend classes? Read a book? Can you elaborate on each of the 3 Levels of mastery of the technique, and the specific exercises that are taught at each level? I'm asking because while your answer is a reasonable place to start, it's all stuff that can be found openly on the Miksang website... Unfortunately the Miksang folks are also very cagey about the specific techniques they teach... and that is primarily where I'm looking for elaboration..." CreationDate="2011-05-30T07:32:17.290" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19698" PostId="12542" Text="@Jay I did! Maybe I inadvertently clicked the check-mark twice. Now, what would be an adequate donation amount? I truly have no idea what the market value of such a plugin would be." CreationDate="2011-05-30T07:48:58.740" UserId="5387" />
  <row Id="19699" PostId="12530" Text="the upsampling needed to get a full resolution shot from the crop will most likely lead to image quality loss much worse than that caused by average quality jpeg compression.   " CreationDate="2011-05-30T09:04:54.340" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19700" PostId="12547" Score="1" Text="+1 for the &quot;TAv mode&quot;, I hadn't thought to try that" CreationDate="2011-05-30T12:33:31.170" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19701" PostId="12549" Text="I touched on this briefly at the end of my answer, but this is a really nice explanation. Thanks." CreationDate="2011-05-30T12:36:52.147" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19702" PostId="4242" Text="I swear we had an earlier question on this, but the closest I could find is http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/9738/why-are-effective-pixels-greater-than-the-actual-resolution " CreationDate="2011-05-30T12:39:38.150" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19703" PostId="12482" Score="1" Text="Really interesting picture BTW" CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:00:39.827" UserId="1271" />
  <row Id="19704" PostId="12441" Text="Though being a Libra myself, I still find the scales analogy a bit off... According to this model, when adding a stop of light, I should also *add* one stop of aperture/ISO/shutter to make the scales balance again? It seems to me like all the blocks should be on one side and &quot;exposed image&quot; on the other side. Use only a few blocks and you won't lift the image enough; use too many and the image will be hanging up high." CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:06:42.903" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19705" PostId="12441" Text="@Imre: or it can simply be a pile of blocks: stack up the stops, and there's your exposure...." CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:13:34.007" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19706" PostId="12556" Score="16" Text="_From_, or _of_? There's a large difference in the amount of acrobatic skill required. :)" CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:17:18.983" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19707" PostId="12491" Text="@JamWheel I doin't think I will be going to that extreme =) I will be going to the store today to show them images that have random white lines in them and to try and get a replacement body." CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:39:24.880" UserId="2132" />
  <row Id="19708" PostId="12482" Text="@Paul Hadfield Thanks, it's the street of my house. Taken with my 550D and a Lensbaby Composer Pro w/ Double Glass." CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:45:27.523" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19709" PostId="6711" Text="@Matt Grum Sounds great, if you don't get to this I will eventually.  I would also love to be able to elect to keep one of `focal length`, `f-stop` and `subject distance` constant and get a nice graph of the changing depth of field." CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:07:02.213" UserId="3356" />
  <row Id="19710" PostId="4242" Text="@mattdm - did you mean this one? http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/3419/when-shooting-in-mraw-or-sraw-how-does-the-camera-generate-smaller-files" CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:10:12.557" UserId="1024" />
  <row Id="19711" PostId="12554" Score="2" Text="This is also known as focus stacking. Used often with macro photos" CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:18:50.093" UserId="4880" />
  <row Id="19712" PostId="12528" Text="Note that some DSLRs will let you actually crop in-camera too. " CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:37:41.513" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="19713" PostId="12543" Text="@Matt Grum - That exact answer drives me crazy!  135 f/2 or 100/2.8L!  Too many choices!" CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:40:19.493" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19714" PostId="12544" Text="Great examples Matt, thanks!  The 85 f/1.2 is absolutely the bokeh standard, makes my eyes water every time I use it.  This was exactly the answer I was looking for.  If I need to have a macro with me, can it do double duty: YES.  " CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:44:14.313" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19715" PostId="12554" Text="Yup. Though focus stacking usually refers to photos where the plane of focus has been varied rather than the aperture." CreationDate="2011-05-30T14:52:38.780" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19716" PostId="12543" Score="1" Text="@dpollitt If you're going to do lots of outdoor portraits in natural light get the 135. If you're going to do studio/stopped down portraits, or if you want a macro lens anyway, get the 100. It will perform in natural light wide open, but wont be quite as nice as the 135." CreationDate="2011-05-30T15:02:58.637" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19717" PostId="12544" Score="1" Text="The 85 f/1.2 is definitely the low light king, however I think the 135 f/2.0 does as good bokeh, it in fact has almost the same maximum [apparent] physical aperture size 132/2 = 67.5mm as the 85, 85/1.2 = 71mm. On full frame it's great, and co-incidentally almost exactly the same field of view as the 85mm on APS-C (85 x 1.6 = 136)" CreationDate="2011-05-30T15:07:38.260" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19718" PostId="12322" Text="I agree on using Jeffrey Friedl's Geoencoding plugin, it really works well with Lightroom." CreationDate="2011-05-30T15:58:48.470" UserId="271" />
  <row Id="19719" PostId="12542" Score="1" Text="@Tomalak: No idea. I think I donated $5USD, but it seems like they'd take anything..." CreationDate="2011-05-30T16:22:46.853" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19721" PostId="12540" Score="1" Text="They're objective but largely irrelevant. It's a mistake to get over-concerned with measurable things _just because they can be measured_. " CreationDate="2011-05-30T18:29:15.230" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19722" PostId="12565" Text="The Canon system was called A-DEP mode and is not found on current models." CreationDate="2011-05-30T18:38:41.170" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19723" PostId="12473" Score="1" Text="If you can save to around $300 Dell currently has a few low end IPS monitors. I don't have one so I can't say for quality versus other monitors in the price range." CreationDate="2011-05-30T19:00:18.783" UserId="4098" />
  <row Id="19724" PostId="12556" Score="2" Text="...and assuming you mean *&quot;How can I take a perfect picture **of** a crystal chandelier&quot;* the next thing you may want to clarify is: are you wanting to take a picture of a room *with a chandelier in it*, or are you wanting to take a picture of *just a chandelier*?" CreationDate="2011-05-30T19:17:19.707" UserId="2838" />
  <row Id="19725" PostId="12567" Text="+1 for using plastic bins, al tough I don't like the idea of leaving my equipment shelves. I have a very active dog... :F" CreationDate="2011-05-30T19:24:59.930" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19726" PostId="12567" Text="Yeah, the household pet concern got us too, but I've never had a problem. Ok, I haven't had a problem *so far* :)" CreationDate="2011-05-30T19:27:39.460" UserId="5270" />
  <row Id="19728" PostId="12570" Text="I am ready to write a script to do the conversion myself, but I don't know what _(n-points 17)_ and _(points 34..._ values mean yet, so I am hoping there is already a solution." CreationDate="2011-05-30T20:09:48.537" UserId="3922" />
  <row Id="19729" PostId="12565" Text="&quot;something better left to the photographer rather than the camera&quot; - actually FujiF550EXR is quite good at it." CreationDate="2011-05-30T20:34:02.473" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19730" PostId="12569" Score="1" Text="+1, I leave my most versatile set of kit packed in a backpack. Don't know when I'll need it next!" CreationDate="2011-05-30T20:51:08.050" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19731" PostId="12569" Text="+1, nice solution!" CreationDate="2011-05-30T20:57:56.803" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19732" PostId="12567" Text="@Steve So far... hahaha" CreationDate="2011-05-30T20:58:16.287" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19734" PostId="12539" Text="You should really specify what sort of camera you have, the size of the sensor will affect responses. I have the 100mm L version (with IS) and I can recommend it in general, it's an amazing lens." CreationDate="2011-05-30T21:02:42.943" UserId="1580" />
  <row Id="19735" PostId="12491" Text="random white lines sounds odd - insects perhaps? or water droplets passing through the frame?" CreationDate="2011-05-30T21:31:30.800" UserId="3664" />
  <row Id="19736" PostId="12538" Text="No, lowest ISO will *not* give you best image quality if using it causes underexposure or blur. Even if your tripod avoids camera shake blur, you may end up with subject blur." CreationDate="2011-05-30T22:43:39.703" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19737" PostId="12541" Text="@rfusca: Actually, a good soft-focus lens is normally still quite sharp (high resolution). Most of the reduction is in micro-contrast. The effect is (or should be) like pushing the ACR's &quot;clarity&quot; slider to the left, *not* like applying some sort of blur filter." CreationDate="2011-05-31T00:02:39.850" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19738" PostId="12578" Score="1" Text="Seems that an always-ready backpack is the main solution to this." CreationDate="2011-05-31T00:29:44.210" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19739" PostId="12578" Score="2" Text="@Andres - Unless you just do in house still life or portrait work, or you live at your studio then absolutely!" CreationDate="2011-05-31T00:41:10.597" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19740" PostId="12432" Score="1" Text="Answering your own questions is actually A-Ok here, it will even give you some special little medals." CreationDate="2011-05-31T01:13:22.727" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19741" PostId="12572" Score="1" Text="The fact that the GPS unit in question happens to be built into a camera does *not* make this a question about photography. " CreationDate="2011-05-31T01:54:41.943" UserId="603" />
  <row Id="19742" PostId="12540" Text="@mattdm so, so, so, SO true" CreationDate="2011-05-31T02:14:52.027" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19743" PostId="12551" Text="You could also get yourself a 3-stop neutral density filter and keep shooting with the 800 during the day." CreationDate="2011-05-31T02:20:54.247" UserId="378" />
  <row Id="19744" PostId="12569" Text="&quot;Grab and go&quot;: very good advice." CreationDate="2011-05-31T02:29:16.250" UserId="48" />
  <row Id="19745" PostId="12572" Score="1" Text="Sorry to hear that. I do not think there is anything you can do. I had a F550 EXR for several weeks and it locked quite accurately. It may be that yours is defective or something in Gran Canary causes interference. There is a not about GPS reception not working in China in the manual but that's all IIRC." CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:09:24.237" UserId="1620" />
  <row Id="19746" PostId="12556" Score="3" Text="How can I vote this as one of the most obscure questions ever?" CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:14:36.923" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19747" PostId="12491" Text="@JamWheel i've clean the lenses and sensor. i've had white lines during full sunshine and after rain. I'm currently trying to reproduce it. no luck so far. but I did get these random lines on over 14 frames in 150 I took so far with this body. I'm going to have the sensor checked." CreationDate="2011-05-31T03:47:01.720" UserId="2132" />
  <row Id="19748" PostId="12551" Text="Err... not really. Image quality will still be craptastic, which is why I use low-ISO film whenever there is enough light." CreationDate="2011-05-31T07:50:33.413" UserId="3458" />
  <row Id="19749" PostId="12577" Text="Thank you for the Scheme tutorial. After some experimenting, I managed to get this settings file (http://pastebin.com/dcm3yWVe), that produces a S-curve like this: (http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/3016/screenshotcurves.png) This seems like a trivial problem, after a good night's sleep :)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:10:21.790" UserId="3922" />
  <row Id="19750" PostId="12536" Text="@Imre: right, I had not thought about that. I thought that white balance was &quot;simply&quot; a matter of calibrating the digital sensor and had not a direct counterpart when shooting film." CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:45:05.300" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="19751" PostId="12538" Text="@Steve: I agree that you should think about it, when I said that with film more planning is required I meant that you are stuck with that film roll for a good number of shots..." CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:48:04.583" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="19752" PostId="11041" Text="To answer your question more specifically, what type of photography do you do? How do you feel that your 400D holds you back as a photographer? As others have mentioned, you will likely see a greater improvement by investing in lenses, unless you have a specific reason to upgrade to the 7D." CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:48:15.330" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19753" PostId="12537" Score="1" Text="@Imre: I didn't know that emulsions were so &quot;selective&quot; and only few ISO were available. I also didn't know about the swap film technique, in any case I imagine that it is more easily (relatively) done indoor than outdoor..." CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:51:23.150" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="19754" PostId="12547" Text="@Evan: thanks for the perspective, when I asked I was actually expecting that everybody would have told me that I was spoiled by the modern comforts... :-)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T08:54:11.980" UserId="5032" />
  <row Id="19755" PostId="12097" Text="Kids burning ants with magnifying glass should be punished. And no, the elements cannot be damaged, see Jerry's answer." CreationDate="2011-05-31T09:14:54.100" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="19756" PostId="12577" Score="1" Text="What about posting it in your question as well and not only on pastebin? Thanks :)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T09:19:14.490" UserId="4149" />
  <row Id="19757" PostId="12590" Score="15" Text="I've heard welding photography is way hotter than wedding photography." CreationDate="2011-05-31T10:36:20.130" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19759" PostId="3161" Text="Why the downvote? If you don't explain what it is that you think is wrong it can't improve the answer." CreationDate="2011-05-31T11:18:11.913" UserId="149" />
  <row Id="19760" PostId="531" Text="@imre, you're quite right, but this question is asking for some common settings, and is couched as a beginner question.  Your comments are relevant for someone at the next level.  To start with, this guy just wants to get the right exposure.  " CreationDate="2011-05-31T11:24:19.030" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="19761" PostId="12568" Text="Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't see why this has been downvoted?  Certainly a comment would be in order - preferably explaining to @Chris how he could improve the question and/or pose better questions in future?  (in point of fact, I have been wondering the same thing!)  Anyone?" CreationDate="2011-05-31T11:30:20.777" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="19762" PostId="12556" Text="@mattdm  lol.  thanks for brightenning my day ;-)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T11:33:27.497" UserId="191" />
  <row Id="19763" PostId="12591" Text="This isn't really an answer, but it might be faster to work in manual mode with spot metering, then at least you can skip the &quot;AE-lock&quot; step and just dial in your exposure compensation directly using the aperture/shutter dials. As an added advantage, it may help you keep conscious of what choices you are making in terms of f-stop and shutter speed." CreationDate="2011-05-31T11:53:27.313" UserId="2228" />
  <row Id="19764" PostId="2579" Text="Wonderful post! I am thinking of getting a new camera and I can't decide if I should get a point and shoot camera or a bridge camera from one of the top rated camera models in the market like Canon, Nikon, Panasonic and more. I'm looking around for opinions and advices from experts and I hope I'll get the answer that I am looking for. Will definitely consider your post and I hope I won't regret my purchase! Thanks!" CreationDate="2011-05-31T06:20:18.910" UserId="5408" />
  <row Id="19765" PostId="87" Text="If you shoot in RAW and process the images afterwards, there is not really a point in using the ISO Expansion modes. It would be like shooting JPEG, you make the camera drop information instead of having control over how to do it in the processing step." CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:48:49.320" UserId="5311" />
  <row Id="19766" PostId="12568" Text="That's shocking i had no idea i was down voted. Well thanks for your support AJ. " CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:04:20.297" UserId="5026" />
  <row Id="19767" PostId="12583" Text="Excellent advice! Never thought about it!" CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:09:28.387" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19768" PostId="12591" Text="Thanks, I do this sometimes, but find that it takes longer to adjust two dials than it does one. My goal here is to decide on a metering mode that can be used when there isn't time for spot metering (e.g. candid shots)." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:10:04.020" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19769" PostId="12589" Text="30ºC is in the normal working temperature span for a camera, but I really don't know if that temperature sustained through days could cause damage. Maybe you should ask it in a new question." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:13:11.987" UserId="4039" />
  <row Id="19770" PostId="12593" Text="Thanks, some useful points here. Are there times when Evaluative metering catches you off-guard, or would you say it is fairly easy to learn how it behaves in different situations?" CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:19:11.353" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19771" PostId="12568" Score="2" Text="I think the post would be better on http://superuser.com. I know color calibration is important to photography but this is really a Windows software question." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:24:08.093" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19772" PostId="12448" Text="Hmmm; we might have one window were this would be applicable. It's a good suggestion." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:28:09.543" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19773" PostId="3186" Text="For clarity it would make much more sense if you broke up your first sentence to two statements.  Personally I had to reread that twice to make sure I knew what you were saying.  Also, if you are going to bounce the flash, make sure you consider the color of what you are bouncing off of." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:33:43.287" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19774" PostId="3177" Text="I skip the diffuser and bounce if possible, that will give more attractive shadows on most subjects.  If bouncing is not possible due to lack of surfaces or the color of the surface, then a diffuser is always nice to have." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:35:12.567" UserId="4892" />
  <row Id="19775" PostId="12568" Text="The Stack Exchange system has recently been change to encourage more question downvotes (there is no longer a reputation cost to doing so). What we're seeing (more casual downvotes) is a natural consequence of that, for better or for worse." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:37:52.550" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19776" PostId="12593" Score="1" Text="It still gets it wrong, usually when a dark subject fills the frame, or when the scene is more reflective than average (i.e. snow on the ground), or when you pan up and get a lot more sky in shot. But because it uses more of the scene to meter, it's less sensitive to slight changes in composition, making it more predictable in general." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:44:21.500" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19777" PostId="12209" Text="After seeing how many down votes. It's a bit ridiculous how mean spirited and downvote hungry this Stackexchange forum is. This guy @goldenmean actually took the time to write this question with formatting. I've seen worst duplicate questions about, &quot;Which camera is the coolest. uh. shood i pick dis won? &quot; that should be downvoted -1000 times." CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:50:29.723" UserId="5026" />
  <row Id="19780" PostId="12572" Score="1" Text="By analogy with http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/questions/725/cinematography-should-we-make-this-on-topic/727#727, I don't see why we wouldn't handle this kind of question. (I'm going to edit it to remove the post-processing and digital-photography tags, though!)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:27:34.210" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19783" PostId="531" Text="I doubt using shutter priority is nearly as *common* as aperture priority or even full manual. The asker did not specify whether streets will be roamed in daytime, low-light or both - in low-light, lowest ISO will not be sufficient for adequate exposure." CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:38:46.950" UserId="4390" />
  <row Id="19784" PostId="12598" Text="I already have an old USB 1.1 Epson Perfection 1200 (rave reviews at the time 1998/1999 I think) with light adapter for slides (And negatives). But that is the scan-then-view cycle I want to avoid. But yes I could use it." CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:41:04.170" UserId="2561" />
  <row Id="19785" PostId="12603" Text="+1 This is closest to what I'm looking for: the spec is very clear about that: &quot;Hi-Speed preview (1~3 Seconds)&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:41:48.490" UserId="2561" />
  <row Id="19787" PostId="12599" Text="Thanks I'll look into it." CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:42:04.933" UserId="2561" />
  <row Id="19788" PostId="12473" Text="Editing photos and playing games is somewhat contradictory requirement, because up to my current knowledge, IPS panels have quite high reaction time, which obviously is not good for gaming." CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:42:57.487" UserId="1774" />
  <row Id="19789" PostId="12598" Text="negative viewer on android - this shows the camera input as negative images - presumably applying negative to an already negative image would change it back? I'll let you know if it works http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/media_and_video/negative-view_hjhb.html  also Qik is a webcam app for android, perhaps this could be extended to show negatives as the intended photo. The other thing to do would be to successfully setup the negative on an evenly and purest white as possible illuminated background for the phone to pick up,also consider the size of the image and the camera macro " CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:47:20.997" UserId="2561" />
  <row Id="19791" PostId="12598" Text="PS thanks for your anwer" CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:50:49.073" UserId="2561" />
  <row Id="19792" PostId="12603" Text="Yes, that time is essentially how long it takes for it to adjust the exposure based on the particular frame - the image is 'live' on screen." CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:57:17.850" UserId="3205" />
  <row Id="19793" PostId="9182" Text="This is a **high contrast** image. Generally, when increasing contrast in post (ie. Photoshop), saturation is increased. " CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:57:46.753" UserId="5336" />
  <row Id="19795" PostId="12137" Text="I see cowards people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:07:22.613" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19796" PostId="11687" Text="I see coward people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:07:31.893" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19798" PostId="12213" Text="I see coward people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:09:01.940" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19799" PostId="11284" Text="I see coward people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:09:40.303" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19800" PostId="10021" Text="I see coward people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:10:46.247" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19801" PostId="5197" Score="1" Text="I see coward people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:10:59.790" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19802" PostId="4997" Text="I see coward people downvoting your post because you have posted a question about video in the 'video' section. So, I will up vote you to help you take your points back." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:11:05.577" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19803" PostId="12572" Text="@Jerry. Why there is a GPS tag if you don't accept GPS-related questions? And if you already bothered to post a useless comment about my GPS-related question in the GPS section, you could have posted also some of your knowledge about GPS (if there are any)..." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:18:07.140" UserId="5402" />
  <row Id="19804" PostId="12572" Score="1" Text="@Altar — anyone can make tags, so they shouldn't be seen as some sort of official sanction. In fact, there are very little &quot;official sanctions&quot; of any sort — the site is largely run by community process. Which you are very welcome to participate in, by the way. Take a look over at http://meta.photo.stackexchange.com/, which is the best place for further discussion of this &quot;meta&quot; topic. (&quot;Meta&quot; meaning questions about the site itself.)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:33:45.320" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19806" PostId="9182" Text="I agree that this was (most likely) altered in post. Note that the histogram shows a good deal of clustering at both extreme ends. This implies loss of detail in both highlights (blown out) and shadows (blocked up). You may like this look and if it's for personal use, go for it: Crank up the saturation and contrast sliders. Many buyers will not want this contrasty an image, choosing to add some later if their application calls for it." CreationDate="2011-05-31T16:48:13.423" UserId="5270" />
  <row Id="19808" PostId="6286" Text="I was asking the same question. Today I taken some panning picture. The camera was set with manual center spot but in aperture I still see only the rightmost AF spot in red. Is confirmed that is an Aperture's big-bug? I have the EOS 500D too." CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:25:10.203" UserId="5288" />
  <row Id="19809" PostId="12589" Text="Thank you Andres, you are probably right. I am going to start a new question." CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:41:22.690" UserId="2549" />
  <row Id="19810" PostId="12566" Text="See also: http://photo.stackexchange.com/q/3719/21" CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:50:19.797" UserId="21" />
  <row Id="19811" PostId="12612" Score="1" Text="The built-in SD card readers are often connected via USB internally. (The one in my Lenovo laptop certainly is.)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:19:53.837" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19812" PostId="12613" Score="3" Text="&quot;Are said&quot; by whom?" CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:20:19.767" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19813" PostId="12577" Text="Done, thank you for the suggestion." CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:35:34.970" UserId="3922" />
  <row Id="19814" PostId="12612" Score="1" Text="Macs that use the USB bus to communicate with the SD card slot have a maximum speed of up to 480 Mbit/s. Newer Macs use the PCIe bus to communicate with the SD card slot and can transfer data at a much faster rate.&#xA;&#xA;Source: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3553&#xA;&#xA;My iMac and MBP use the PCIe bus and it's smokin' fast." CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:45:58.223" UserId="5270" />
  <row Id="19816" PostId="12610" Text="possible duplicate of [Why don't professional SLR camera's use SD or SDHC memory?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1630/why-dont-professional-slr-cameras-use-sd-or-sdhc-memory)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:49:53.380" UserId="472" />
  <row Id="19817" PostId="12611" Text="+1 - good point about market inertia and also on &quot;size factor&quot;." CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:53:52.080" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19818" PostId="12572" Score="2" Text="@matt There *is* an SE site that would likely welcome GPS questions: GIS.SE.  However, the current question is about a *camera,* so the GIS people wouldn't have anything specific to say about it!  (Nevertheless, someone there--probably many people there--could give a lot of good suggestions about what might have gone wrong and provide tips for collecting GPS data in the field.)  Maybe if @Altar gets no helpful replies within a few days you could try a migration." CreationDate="2011-05-31T21:15:32.723" UserId="1356" />
  <row Id="19819" PostId="12594" Text="&quot;Given that there are photos of welding&quot;: There are also lots of photos of sun, but this does not mean that it is safe to take photos of sun without special gear (e.g., filters)." CreationDate="2011-05-31T21:18:56.713" UserId="247" />
  <row Id="19820" PostId="12611" Text="It's also the fact that CF cards are less fiddly and seen as being more robust that accounts for their continued use in pro camera bodies. I don't think the five year headstart counts for anything now, both formats have been around for over a decade!" CreationDate="2011-05-31T21:32:47.423" UserId="1375" />
  <row Id="19821" PostId="5807" Text="Asking for a tutorial is okay, I guess, but it's better to simply ask _how to do something_. Maybe the answer will be &quot;follow this tutorial&quot;, and maybe it will be &quot;follow these steps.&quot;" CreationDate="2011-05-31T21:49:16.010" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19822" PostId="12209" Text="@Chris: you say mean spirited, I say: hey look, this  isn't getting good answers. Let's figure out why not. While it's nice when people format their answers, that's not all it takes to ask a question well. (Those other questions should be closed too, of course — it's a false dichotomy to say that because those are bad this one must be voted up.)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T21:54:19.347" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19823" PostId="7784" Text="I edited the question to put the update into the title....." CreationDate="2011-05-31T22:21:56.447" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19824" PostId="6376" Score="1" Text="possible duplicate of [What should I look for in a monitor for photo processing?](http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/1687/what-should-i-look-for-in-a-monitor-for-photo-processing)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T22:24:06.260" UserId="1943" />
  <row Id="19825" PostId="7784" Text="@mattdm good call" CreationDate="2011-05-31T22:28:37.600" UserId="1917" />
  <row Id="19826" PostId="6401" Text="Can you suggest any relatively affordable monitor calibrators?" CreationDate="2011-05-31T22:41:46.700" UserId="609" />
  <row Id="19827" PostId="12590" Score="1" Text="There always has to be one bright spark. By the way, I love that you created a new 'welding' tag for this question :)" CreationDate="2011-05-31T22:53:44.683" UserId="3775" />
  <row Id="19828" PostId="6386" Text="based on the low-end ones I've seen in action and reviews of better semi-pro stuff, Eizo makes some GREAT screens." CreationDate="2011-05-31T23:13:26.107" UserId="3364" />
  <row Id="19922" PostId="8736" Text="thanks all for feedback.. lightroom did a good job to sort every imported files into folders. I am thinking maybe i should just break those final images into different folder, like the first 9999 images, folder01, and second 9999 images in folder02.. it is also easier to trace where the photos are." CreationDate="2011-02-15T05:44:46.973" UserId="3871" />
</comments>